The Science of Beauty Oct 2014 Vol 4/Issue 2 by Martin (Webfx2 Digital)

Vol 4 No 2

October 2014

A S Harrison & Co Celebrating 90 years of success.

Hair Care Innospec

NEW

Sulphate free surfactants, conditioning agents and chelating agents. Hair shine enhancers, anti-foaming agents and conditioning silicones. Natural conditioning actives, colour boosters and antidandruff actives. High performance oil for softness, shine and frizz control.

Chemsil

ORGANIC

Greentech

ORGANIC

CAC

Skin Care Actives ORGANIC

Greentech

ORGANIC

CAC

Natural anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-scaring, moisturising and skin ﬁrming actives. High performance oils for emolliency and scar healing and Aloe Vera for its soothing properties

Sunscreens

NEW

Innospec

High performance solubilisers.

Kuo Ching

Organic UV absorbers.

ISK

Mineral UV ﬁlters.

Antiperspirants Gulbrandsen

Innospec

Aluminium and Aluminium/ Zirconium actives for efﬁcient antiperspirants. High performance solubilisers.

Skin Care Functional Ingredients NEW

Chemsil

Vanderbilt Botaneco NEW

Natunola

Emulsifying silicones, silicone gelling agents, volatile fluids and self-warming fluids. Emulsion stabilisers and rheology modifiers. Natural emulsifier, delivery system and moisturiser. Natural petroleum jelly replacement. A S HARRISON & CO PTY LIMITED 75 Old Pittwater Road, Brookvale, NSW 2100 T: +61 2 8978 1000 F: +61 2 8978 1050 E: ash.sales@harrison.com.au W: www.asharrison.com.au

the science of beauty

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

*670,: (5+ 0: 56> 05 0;: 5+ ,+0;065 !<9 73,5(9@ :7,(2,9: ;6 +(;, 05*3<+, 9 (93 05;5,9 6<5+,9 6 (3 0+,,: $ $ 65:<3;(5*@ *647(5@ )(:,+ 05 9(5*, 9 3(05 /(0(; 6<5+,9 6- $,,9: 65:<3;05. )(:,+ 05 $05.(769, (5+ 9 $(;6:/0 4(56 $,5069 #,:,(9*/ $*0,5;0:; (; $/0:,0+6 &, /(=, ),,5 6=,9>/,34,+ )@ ;/, 9,:765:, -964 ;/, 05;,95(;065(3 *644<50;@ (5+ >, /67, ;/(; @6< >033 1605 <: 05 >,3*6405. (33 ;/,:, >693+ *3(:: :7,(2,9:

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

% $ )* ! % *& -!" "* %/, $ $ ?/0)0;065 3669 "3(5 0: 56> (=(03()3, 05 ;/, ?/0)0;065 :,*;065 6- ;/, $ $ >,):0;, !53@ 65, )66;/ 0: :;033 (=(03()3, -69 :(3, 5;,9,:;,+ 69.(50:(;065: :/6<3+ ,4(03 (+405 (:*: *64 (**69+05.3@

% $ )* ! % *& &$ '&%)&( & *! %/, :(3, 6- ;/, :765:69:/07 7(*2(.,: 65 ;/,

;/ <.<:; >(: ( .9,(; :<**,:: (: -0=, 6- ;/, 79,40<4 7(*2(.,: 6--,9,+ :63+ 05 3,:: ;/(5 405<;,: %/, "9,40<4 $765:69:/07 "(*2(.,: /(=, ),,5 +,=,367,+ ;6 ;(2, -<33 (+=(5;(., 6- ;/, ,?;,5:0=, $ $ 4(92,;05. :;9(;,.@ ,5:<905. "9,40<4 $765:69: (*/0,=, 4(?04<4 9,*6.50;065 (: 2,@ :<7769;,9: 6- $ $ 66+ 5,>: %/,9, 0: :;033 65, 63+ :765:69:/07 7(*2(., (=(03()3, $6 +65B; /,:0;(;, (5+ 4(2, ;/, 46:; 6- ;/, ,=,5; )@ :,0A05. ;/0: >65+,9-<3 4(92,;05. 67769;<50;@ 5;,9,:;,+ 69.(50:(;065: :/6<3+ ,4(03 (+405 (:*: *64 69, +,;(03: 65 ;/, ),5,-0;: 6- "9,40<4 $765:69:/07 0: (=(03()3, 65 >>> (:*: *64

$$ &( )*( *) $&)"% "% $ )) *! % , #) %/, (33 -69 ):;9(*;: >033 *36:, 65 !*;6),9

"3,(:, :<)40; @6<9 ():;9(*;: ;6 (:** (:** *64 (< (: :665 (: 76::0)3, ;6 /(=, ( */(5*, ;6 79,:,5; (; ;/, $ $ <33 +,;(03: (9, (=(03()3, 65305,

the science of beauty

contents 9

24 28 30 34 38

Business

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Hype about Marine Ingredients and Thalassotherapy? by Lisa Della-Bosca Cosmetic and Animal Test Legislation by Ric Williams Building Meaningful Brands by Murray Hunter Sunscreen Highlights by John Staton Another World First by Lisa Carroll Modern Beauty Culture by Wendy Free The Price of Dermatologically Claims by Emanuela Elia

40 44

48 51 55

Lessons from my Mum by Margaret Smith A New Strategy for a Global Action Against Photoaging by Loing, Borel Formulators Forum by Ric Williams Skin Cancer Detection by Tina Aspres ASCC Presidentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Report by Jenny Brown

13 Low or No Cost Salon Marketing Tips to Catapult your Profits by Pam Stellema

Wellness

Technical 57

October 2014

Educational

Vol 4 No 2

Marine Source by Romari, Nachat-Kappes, Berthon High Performance Antiperspirant actives by Dr Zijun Li

A Health Fad that is Here to Stay by Emma Sutherland Why are we Fat? by Kittirat Youthangrong Choosing Carrier Oils by Wendy Lockyear

Advertisers 2 5 23 27 29 31 4

AS Harrison Lipotec Brenntag CeeChem Dermatest Native Extracts the science of beauty

36 37 39 42 43 47

Merck Merck Ingredients Plus Syndet Works ALS Global Avenir

49 50 53 60 63 64

AMA Labs IMCD Insurance Made Easy PCI FPI Karpati

Bermuda Atlantic Ocean

A secret personal trainer

0 days

Cream with 5% actigym marine ingredient + no exercise TM

Cream with 5% actigym marine ingredient + exercise TM

Lipotec Pty Ltd Suite 308/49 Queens Road Five Dock NSW 2046, Australia Tel: +61 (2) 89710273 Fax: +61 (2) 80886729 E-mail: commercialanz@lipotec.com

56 days

By increasing adiponectin release, an endurance training-like effect is achieved with actigym™ marine ingredient, leading to better body deﬁnition. Volunteers with sedentary lifestyles saw visible reductions in abdomen contour (up to -2.8 cm, 28 days) and in thighs (-2.1 cm, 56 days). Results were even more impressive on those who applied the treatment in addition to performing exercise.

the science of beauty

meet the team... The Science Of Beauty ISSN: 1837-8536 Published Bi-monthly (January March May July September November) www.thescienceofbeauty.com.au Publisher Manor Enterprises Pty Ltd ABN 32 002 617 807 Editor Joy Harrison All correspondence should be sent to The Editor The Science of Beauty PO Box 487 GULGONG NSW 2852 Mobile: 0418 541 998 Email: joyh@ozemail.com.au Advertising Tony Harrison Advertising Manager PO Box 487 GULGONG NSW 2852 Mobile: 0429 165 156 Email: tonyhar@ozemail.com.au Subscriptions The Subscription Manager (PO Box 487 Gulgong NSW 2852) $66.00 (per year) incl P/H (Aust.only) $106.00 (2 year) 20% discount Disclaimer The viewpoints and opinions expressed in the articles appearing in this magazine are those of the authors. The Publisher takes no responsibility for the information supplied.

the science of beauty

LISA DELLA-BOSCA Lisa has been a professional skin therapist working in the industry for over 30 years. After the first couple of years as a beauty therapist, Lisa had a driving force to understand the cause and treatment for the clients skin disorders she was managing, but at this stage could only treat superficially. The solution was to study natural therapies. For over 25 years Lisa has married the science of natural therapies especially nutrition with skin science with skin therapy to gain solutions for skin disorders and skin conditions.

ROLAND LEVER joined his father in the family business in 1980, helping develop fragrance and flavour sales in Australia of Mane, France. Several years later, when Mane wound back its marketing operations to focus on large international accounts, Roland started manufacturing operations locally, which proved timely and successful. The company now makes around 90% of the products it sells, while continuing to work as Mane’s international partner in Australia and New Zealand. Roland’s personal interests have developed – inspired by the creative side of the business – and in recent years have included ambient 3-D fragrancing of a sculpture instillation at the Experimental Arts Foundation, and taking acting classes.

WENDY FREE has degrees in science (B.Sc) and Technology Management (M.Tech Mngt) and is an active member of a number of industry associations including Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Society of Microbiologists, Association of Therapeutic Goods Consultants, MediQ and is a Fellow of the Australian Organisation for Quality. With more than 2 decades industry experience, Wendy is currently the Scientific Director of Quality Matters Safety Matters Pty Ltd providing expertise in product and quality systems development, specifically for the medicines and personal care industries. She specialises in regulatory compliance, commercialisation, troubleshooting and GMP systems. Wendy has participated in the development and successful launch of hundreds of products, and is passionate about everything she does.

PAM STELLEMA is the Principal Coach and founder of SalonSavy, and provides specialised industry based phone coaching to her clients. Pam has owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specialises in maximising salon productivity and profits. She has also authored the book “3 ½ Secrets to Salon Success” Pam can be contacted via her website www.SalonSavy.com.au or phone 011 617 5529 6467 or 0431 975 515.

JOHN STATON has a background of over 40 years experience in the pharmaceutical and healthcare industries. John is a life member of the ASCC and serves in a number of industry representative roles with ASMI, ACCORD, TGA and Standards. He is the Australian representative to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing-TC 217. (The committee for development of sunscreen standards). John is also in demand as a speaker on the International Conference Circuit.

RIC WILLIAMS was educated in Sydney obtaining his Bachelor of Science in Pure and Applied Chemistry from the University of New South Wales (1980) and a Diploma of Environmental Studies from Macquarie University in 1983. Ric has had 40 years experience in the industry working for many companies and operating his own consultancy business for many years. He has presented many lectures and workshops at national conferences for the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC), the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA), Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Special Interest Group (CAPSIG) and also beauty colleges nation wide.

EMMA SUTHERLAND is a successful naturopath and TV presenter, her mission in life is to inspire women to get their “Mojo” back. She is the expert nutritionist on the Logie nominated “Eat Yourself Sexy” on LifeStyle You. She is also a key contributor and expert panellist for the recently launched Woolworths Baby & Toddler Club. With over 10 years experience working with women, Emma is the woman to turn to if you want your Mojo back!

GAY WARDLE is of Australia’s most awarded salon owners and a leading educator in the beauty industry. As Director of Advanced Aesthetics she educates therapists on how to increase their understanding of skin analysis and advanced therapies to create better results for their clients, and increase profits for their businesses. Her training advice is regularly sought by leading skin care and equipment companies in Australia and every year she inspires hundreds of therapists to take their skills, careers and businesses to the next level of performance.

WENDY LOCKYEAR founder and principal of Advance Massage Australasia has been in the natural and remedial therapies industry since 1972 and is an accredited member of the Australian Traditional Medicine Society, and an accredited training provider with over 26 years clinical experience and over 18 years in education, training and instructional skills, teaching a wide variety of remedial modalities from general interest and post graduate workshops to accredited units up to an Advanced Diploma level, Wendy travels extensively and delivers regular annual seminars. Wendy specialises in delivering her courses and workshops one or two on one and recommends this for any one seeking a maximum level of competency based training.

KITTIRAT YOTHANGRONG or Akoi as she is known, is one of the very few people who have been a Buddhist nun and a runner-up in the Miss Southern Thailand Beauty Quest as a “mature” contestant. She is a ‘practical’ vegetarian who believes in herbs, healthy living, and meditation. An avid yoga fanatic, Kittirat is also an organic farmer. She regularly speaks to community groups in Malaysia and Thailand on empowerment, health through herbs, and spirituality.

MARG SMITH is the owner of Syndet Works – an Australian company established in 1984 to formulate and produce soap free skincare bars. Syndet has developed an enviable reputation for custom formulated and manufactured skincare that now extend well beyond the origins of the business.

JAMES GILLARD is the Principal of Insurance Made Easy whose services include – business insurance, travel insurance and financial services. Insurance Made Easy has a client list of over 2000 businesses from all industries. The relevant major insurance schemes are – Hair and Beauty, Pharmaceutical Companies and Natural Therapists.

MURRAY HUNTER has been involved in Asia-Pacific business for the last 30 years as an entrepreneur, consultant, academic, and researcher. His first venture into the personal care industry was a joint venture with the Andrew Jergens Company in Australia in the late 1970s, later setting up a manufacturing plant, and marketing operation in Indonesia during the early 1980s. As an entrepreneur he was involved in numerous startups, developing a lot of patented technology, where one of his enterprises was listed as the 5th fastest going company on the BRW/Price Waterhouse Fast100 list in 1992 in Australia. Murray is now an associate professor at the University Malaysia Perlis, spending a lot of time consulting to Asian governments on community development and village biotechnology, both at the strategic level and “on the ground”. He is a visiting professor at a number of universities and regular speaker at conferences and workshops in the region. Murray is the author of a number of books, numerous research and conceptual papers in referred journals, and commentator on the issues of personal care, psychology, entrepreneurship and development in a number of magazines and online news sites around the world. the science of beauty

business

the science of beauty

13 E

low or no cost salon marketing tips to

catapult your profits

Every salon owner must market their business continuously. It not only drives new clients into their salon, but it keeps existing clients returning. It also helps to increase sales, and therefore profits. All this activity requires an investment of your time, lots of planning and in some cases, quite a bit of money also. But it doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg to create effective marketing strategies to bring more clients and more money through your salon doors. In this practical article, I’ve included 13 low-budget, but proven strategies, you can use to boost your salon profits without spending a fortune to do so.

1. Write for local publications on a regular basis Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. Approach your local magazine, newspaper, and neighbourhood f lyer, with an offer to write a regular short beauty-based article for their publication. Articles help to establish you as a credible expert in your industry. This makes you the go-to person in their trading zone. Make sure you check and double check for grammar and punctuation errors before you submit your article, and remember to include your contact details at the end of each article.

There’s no harm in asking for a free or discounted advertisement in exchange. You may or may not get one, but your article will still be great advertising for your salon.

2. Provide group presentations Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. Local clubs and associations are always looking for guest speakers to present to their members free of charge. You can source these groups by asking your own clients for suggestions. Simply provide an interesting presentation and/or demonstration to your local groups keeping it focussed on their particular interests. E.g. golfing ladies may be interested in sun damage. To encourage them to visit your salon, simply offer a $10 salon voucher to each person after your presentation. This will also provide an opportunity for you to chat to their members, and build a little rapport.

3. Leverage local businesses’ employees Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. Approach local businesses that have large numbers of employees, and offer to provide 10 minute back, neck and shoulder massages at no cost. You could do 5 per hour (with a little

by Pam Stellema bit of time after each for a tidy up) and for an investment of 1 hour, you’ve created the prospect of 5 new clients for your salon. Remember to leave some salon vouchers to encourage them to visit your salon later on.

4. Leverage local businesses’ clients Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. You’ve probably heard the term ‘joint venture’ before, but may not be totally sure of what it entails. When it comes to getting new clients for your business, it’s a simple win-win arrangement that you enter into with another suitable local business. By promoting their businesses to your clients, you can ask them to do the same for you. the science of beauty

Making a special offer using vouchers can get lots of new clients in through your doors and then it’s up to you to keep them coming back.

your clients to them, if they give you a special price for the cupcakes. Decorate your salon tastefully for the week, and make it a fun time for all.

5. Increase the number of male clientele

8. Run a re-booking promotion to encourage your clients to make their next appointments

Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. In most salons, 95% (or more) of clients are women. That means there’s a very good chance that over 80% of those women have a husband or partner who needs either a bit of TLC, or a tidy up. By giving each of your female clients a half price voucher for a man-only massage or facial, you could considerably extend the number of male clients you attract into your salon. Tell her that when her “male” redeems his voucher, she will also receive a voucher for the same offer. Once your new male client has been in for his first treatment, don’t miss the opportunity to re-book him. Men make great clients, and love being pampered.

6. Ask your clients to introduce a friend Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. Offer your clients a salon voucher to give to a friend who has never been to your salon before. To make it worth her while to do so, give her a separate reward voucher for each person she sends along.

7. Have a one week salon birthday celebration Goal: To retain existing clients and increase their dollar spend amount. Everyone loves a party, so remember to celebrate your salon birthday each year. Let your clients know that everyone who has an appointment during the birthday celebration week will receive a small salon gift. This can be in the form of a lucky dip made up of salon vouchers, with one full day of pampering to be won amongst the prizes. Make sure to have glasses of bubbly and some birthday cupcakes on hand to give to your clients during that week. You may even be able to do a joint venture with a local bakery and send 10

the science of beauty

Goal: To retain existing clients and increase their dollar spend amount. Re-booking your clients is one of the best strategies for client retention, and therefore deserves your best effort with every client. Ask each client who re-books to write their name, contact number and the date of her next appointment on a slip of colourful paper, and place it into a glass bowl. Each client who re-books their next appointment before leaving the salon goes into the draw to win a pampering service. The monthly winner picks up their voucher when they come in for their pre-booked appointment.

9. Host an information evening Goal: To gain new clients and retain existing clients and increase their dollar spend amount. Invite your VIP clients and their friends along to an informal information evening, where they can watch service and product demonstrations. Involve as many attendees as possible in your demonstrations so that they can experience a treatment or product on the night. Have special VIP offers on services and products available for purchase throughout the evening. Ask you product supplier to provide a lucky door prize, as well as someone to talk to your clients about their at home skin care needs on the night. Don’t forget to offer a glass of bubbly or juice along with some nibbles to make it a great night for all.

10. Add a New Client Voucher to your website Goal: To attract new clients to your salon. Don’t let those visitors to your website just browse and leave.

Give them a solid reason to make an appointment in your salon by providing a one-use only salon voucher that they can redeem on their first visit. Let’s face it, everyone loves something for free and a salon voucher may be all it needs to get a new client into your salon.

11. Create ‘Solution’ packages to meet particular skin conditions Goal: To retain existing clients and increase their dollar spend amount. Are many of your clients get stuck in a rut, having the same services every time they visit your salon? To break them out of this routine, group together suitable services (and possibly at-home products), that will benefit particular skin conditions, and sell them as a ‘Solution’ package. You could include Solutions such as a Sun Damage Package, Problem Skin Package, Pigmentation Package, Mature Skin Package, etc. You know what your salon clients need most, and therefore you can determine which services and products to provide to create your skin care Solution packages.

12. Use the power of the impulse purchase Goal: To increase the client’s dollar spend amount. When clients make an impulse purchase in your salon that’s a total bonus for you. Having several impulse purchase displays near where your client is paying for her services is a great way to encourage this behaviour. To maximise your impulse purchase sales, ensure your displays look clean and inviting, are visibly priced, and the products are not too expensive. Just another $30 in additional sales each day can add up to nearly $8000 extra in revenue each year.

13. Be unique in your trading zone Goal: To attract new clients and retain existing clients.

What can you offer to your clients that they simply can’t get anywhere else in your area? Run a brainstorming session with your team to find out what clients are asking for that you could add to your offering. Make sure that whatever you decide to introduce is really in demand by a large number of clients and also that you can offer it at a price they’re willing to pay. Having something different locks clients into your salon and prevents them from straying to the salon down the street. So there you have it. 13 simple marketing strategies that will help you to gain new clients, retain the clients you already have, and increase the amount of money they spend in your salon. If you can successfully meet these 3 criteria then you’re well on the way to having a highly successful salon.

a salon speciﬁc business coach for

$15 a week? saloncoach.com.au In her weekly video sessions, accompanying notes and easy to use templates, renowned salon coach Pam Stellema will show you how to turn your salon into a proﬁt centre and keep customers coming back month after month. Take ﬁfteen minutes each week out of your business to work on your business and be amazed by the changes you’ll see.

Salon Coach is fully tax deductible and if you register before 30th October you’ll also receive a

FREE

copy of Pam’s book

the science of beauty

what’s the hype about

marine ingredients and

thalassotherapy? by Lisa Della-Bosca

Way back in 1904 a very renowned French scientist, named Renee Quinton discovered a wonderful secret from Seawater. He discovered that Seawater and human blood plasma have equal ratios of mineral and trace elements and the ingredients we understand to be electrolytes, we only had to apply very specific filtration to the seawater to reduce the salinity down to nine grams per litre, as in blood plasma. This was achieved with great success and when shown to the scientific community by demonstrating on his own dog, how Isotonic Seawater can be infused directly into the veins of a mammal reducing deaths in so many disease states including blood loss. Human cells are surrounded by plasma, and this new discovery from Dr. Rene Quinton was able to form a human supplement in trials and conclusive experiments where he proved Isotonic Seawater could be used to treat humans successfully. He supported his theses with numerous clinical trials and Europe began clinically treating many patients with thru new clinics with this discovery. The treatment was used for

the science of beauty

the treatment of children and adults suffering from many differing disorders with great success. Today the use of Dr. Rene Quinton’s Isotonic Water can still be found with renewed scientific interest from Europe to the USA. In Medi-spa’s and health retreats around the world this form of medicine is used to balance the body chemistry and increase wellbeing. What is the secret of the ocean? The oceans contain every nutrient known to man, we cannot reproduce seawater in a laboratory and scientist understand the primeval ocean water is where everything on earth evolved. It is this concentration scientists believe we carry in our body today. Scientists also believe the first cell life to from on earth was a marine single celled organism. Probably a simple algae! As these developed further and the ocean water provided protection from the harsh UV rays (as the earth was devoid of an ozone layer at the time) in its depths algae began to f lourish. It was as a result of these sea plants we now have an ozone layer. Today we understand sea plants give our earth up to 70% of the world’s oxygen.

Now almost four billion years on we have a plethora of sea plants from micro algae’s to giant algae forests. Of which we have researched and discovered only a handful. But there are some surprising results from first the anecdotal evidence from the sea plants therapies that have been used thru the ages, thru to now the many scientific studies that have shown why these therapies are successful. If Sea Plants are grown in nutrient rich and pristine water they will provide high doses of much needed nutrients that we humans can eat, supplement, or apply topically to achieve health and cellular

benefits. One body wrap correctly carried out, with the correct seaweed species, treated in the correct manner to ensure the best possible outcome, will Re-mineralise the body to the extent which would be equivalent to being lost in the sea for 5 days. These mineral and trace elements are absorbed via osmosis thru the skin into our blood stream and circulate to every cell of the body so that within two hours scientists measure the output in the urine of excess nutrients (and toxins expelled from cells). For these reasons we know why we have such success in the areas of assisting the body in detoxifying, reducing inf lammation, fighting free radicals, supporting organs and systems of the body and of course in the treatment of skin. Brittany is renowned for its abundance of marine plant life, but also for the quality of these plants and the very high level of nutrients these sea weeds offer. For over 60 years a French research centre has been responsible for some of the most major discoveries related to algae. Due to their commitment this area has been kept pollution free for this whole time. They monitor the ocean via satellite navigation and test the waters hourly to ensure a pristine site. This area was given the title of a UNESCO World Heritage Site to preserve the diligent work carried out here and to keep this area free of pollution and human contamination. Brittany has the second largest tidal f luctuations in the world, allowing for oxygenation of the plant life and providing an environment for some algaeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to evolve with ingredients not seen in land plants. These ingredients are now seen to be a major part of the skin and body health area, as well as internal wellbeing. It is these ingredients we are seeing come into the market place of therapeutic body and specialised skin therapy. With an extensive concentration of nutrients some up to 300,000 times what we would find in blood plasma, as well as active compounds and extracts that are isolated to provide cellular health, we can only

begin to understand the extent to which the ocean holds the key to human health, skin treatment and therapy, not to mention medicine and pharmacology. The next issue we will expand more on the research, development and sustainability of the sea plants. In the

meantime enjoy your Sushi! Cheers and good health

Lisa Della-Bosca

References Dr R. Quinton, Ocean Water CEVA Research, Brittany

the science of beauty

SUPPORTING SKINCARE CLAIMS STEPS 1. D-Squame Discs

No. 14 D-Squame Measurement For improvement of Xerotic (Dry flaking skin) conditions Supportable Claims • Dry Skin Treatment • Dry skin improvement

2. D Squame Record Card

3. optical transmission reading

John Staton Dermatest Pty Ltd Sydney, Australia

remain in the lab under controlled humidity conditions for the entire initial test period Multi-day Day Studies

Product is applied to test area according to client instructions. Priniciple At further nominated time points, D-SQUAME® stripping discs test subjects are brought back to uniformly sample a fixed area of the laboratory for further stratum corneum for precise skin measurements. In all other studies. Adhering corneocytes can aspects, the methodology is the be analyzed for drugs and other same. constituents as D-squame® discs provide a convenient way to reproducibly remove the stratum Reading of Results corneum for subsequent analysis Quantification of removed dry cells can be visual or by optical procedures. transmission measurement. Steps of the Test Test sites may be nominated and are delineated for corresponding areas. Panelists are required to abstain from using deodorant, soaps or cosmetic moisturisers on the test area for a period of one week prior to study commencement and during the course of the study.

Reporting Dry skin improvement vis pretreatment at time t =0. References

1. Image Analysis of Skin Scaling using D-Squame®.... Black D, Boyer J, Lagarde J.M. International Journal Of Cosmetic Science Feb 28(1) 2006 p 35-44. 2. A Simple Method for the study of Single Day Studies scale pattern and effects of a On the day of the study, test moisturiser - qualitative and material is delivered to the test quantitative evaluation by Dsites through plastic volumetric Squame® ... Serup J, Winther A, syringes. A site of equal size is left Blichmann Clinical and untreated to serve as a negative Experimental Dermatology Vol 14 Issue 4 p 277-282 1989 control. Panelists are blinded as to

the nature of the material being applied. Panelists are required to

John Staton is a founding Director of Dermatest Pty Ltd, Sydney, Australia and has been conducting SPF testing and skin efficacy and evaluation studies continuously since 1997.

the science of beauty

wellness

a health fad that is here to stay by Emma Sutherland

Kombucha â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you might be wondering about this latest fad your clients are talking about! In 2011 sales of bottled kombucha in America doubled to almost $90 million. This fizzy, nutritious drink is actually not a new discovery, but only recently has it become one of the hottest trends in health beverages. Kombucha is made from black, white, or green tea, sugar, and a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) which is then fermented. The bacteria and yeast that grow on top of the drink form a mushroom-like appearance. Simply said, it is fermented tea. Kombucha is an acquired taste â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fizzy, tart-like with a sour smell similar to vinegar. Some people add juice to the base brew to make it more palatable. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised, though, if you find some things f loating in your drink as those are bits of bacteria that make kombucha great for your health. Apart from probiotics, the good bacteria that improve gut health, kombucha also contains good amounts of B vitamins and antioxidants. Health benefits of kombucha are primarily based on its probiotic content of good bacteria. Studies show that probiotics found in yogurt, fermented milk and

other fermented foods improve gut health, strengthen the immune system, synthesize and enhance easier absorption of nutrients, reduce symptoms of lactose intolerance, decrease the prevalence of allergy in high risk individuals and reduce the risk of some cancers. Kombucha has gained popularity for its ability to boost digestive health and relieve bloating, constipation and other gut issues. Another study shows drinking kombucha tea not only promotes digestive function, but also protects against broad-spectrum metabolic and infectious diseases. This could be attributed to the high amount of vitamin B in kombucha tea. Vitamin B promotes healthy metabolism, improves mood, helps detoxify the liver and make energy. In comparison to fermented black tea, a study revealed that kombucha is healthier because it contains more potent antidiabetic and antioxidant properties that fight against oxidative stress and free scavenging radicals. The health benefits of kombucha are definitely not limited to metabolic and gastrointestinal health but also has significant benefits on liver & kidney health of diabetic people.

When you introduce kombucha into your diet, start very slowly. Too much too quick can produce headaches, fatigue or stomach cramps. Aim for 1 teaspoon and increase it every 3-4 days by a teaspoon until you reach 100ml. The one I take has ginger, black strap molasses, cinnamon and lemon juice which makes it a very tasty way to start the day!

References http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16696665 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24192111 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23907022 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22591682

the science of beauty

why we are

by Kittirat Yothangrong

Today, the process of eating has become almost an automatic routine. We don’t think, we just eat. Eating passes time, helps us cope with boredom and anxiety, and temporarily helps to make us feel good about ourselves, with the dire consequences we all know about – over weight and the tired and lethargic feelings that often come from this. Eating is not just something that should be habitual, it also involves mindfulness, or attention and focus. Eating is often a personification of our hungriness and greed. We crave and we succumb, showing our weakness and lack of self discipline. The desire for food is often not a hunger, but rather a craving for instant gratification which does so much damage to us. Just think about it. Eating can bring obesity, which leads to lower self esteem. Then ailments like high blood pressure, cholesterol, and even diabetes. That’s a high price to pay so some short term gratification. Self control requires us to think about the big picture. We must pay attention to urges for self gratification. eat according to need rather than want. We must also pay attention to what is good for us. Eat balanced food intakes, keeping foods as natural and unprocessed as possible.

the science of beauty

Why unprocessed? Because that’s how our body was designed and all these complex processed foods with chemicals do complex things to our metabolisms that even today scientists still don’t fully understand. We must try to keep it simple, and stress will decrease within our bodies. Taking time out to prepare our own sandwiches has something soothing and therapeutic about it. Its comes from our own hands and time, and gives you that 5-10 minutes to relax and take the current day in some perspective. Preparing our own food is an art and form of meditation that helps bring mindfulness into our day. Sometimes helping us to see things much more clearly, according to what the cognitive researchers are saying. Wisdom and creativity doesn’t come from being busy, it comes from the things we perform as art during the day. And why can’t the simple preparation of a sandwich be a form of art. So next time, it’s time to eat. Think about preparing your own food as a form of ‘time out’ during the day. Secondly, think about what you need to eat, rather than what you want to eat. Remember food is the first form of temptation that brings dire consequences

to us as a person. Self control, self discipline and even mindfulness can come from the simple practice of preparing your own food and eating it. Put more thought into your eating desires and practices and you will find much better long term self contentment within you. Changing your eating practices will make you even more creative as it will give you time to take in what’s going on during the day. Finally thinking about what and how we eat can help us not only undergo a physical transformation in shedding those kilos, but a mindful one as well, granting you increased wisdom about your everyday life. You have the choice, mindlessly eat and you know the consequences, or put mindfulness into your food and discover the increased quality of life.

aromatherapy

the science of beauty

Part 5

Aromatherapy

Choosing carrier oils: essential oil combinations therapeutic cross references by Wendy Lockyear

Carrier oils or base oils The primary function of a carrier or base oil used in Aromatherapy is to provide a lubrication and as a dilutant for essential oils which are used only in low concentrations. Some carrier oils have therapeutic values of their own and may be used to compliment the essential oils with which they are blended. It is essential when giving a massage that good quality base oils, made from

the science of beauty

vegetables, nuts or seeds, are used. OILS SHOULD BE UNPROCESSED, COLD-PRESSED OILS, WHICH HAVE NOT BEEN CHEMICALLY TREATED. These oils are naturally more perishable than the oils which are readily brought from a supermarket shelf and are chemically preserved. When selecting your carrier oils you should buy from a reputable supplier of oils and associated products or from a health food shop. Cold pressed vegetable oils in general are fairly bland substances, whose function is to provide lubrication. They differ from essential oils in that they are neither volatile nor are they odoriferous. They do have a restricted shelf life which can vary from six month to two or more years depending on the oil. To improve the shelf life of carrier oils it is important to keep your oils in dark, glass bottles and to store them in a cool dark place. This helps to ensure that the oils do not become rancid and lose their therapeutic qualities. Exposure to light causes photo-oxidisation and will destroy the oil properties. Cold pressed, unprocessed oils are always more expensive than commercially produced mineral or petroleum based oils. However, they are a vital component of a massage as the oils themselves are

nourishing to the skin and contain natural essential nutrients When giving a massage, the carrier oil can be put into a plastic dispenser bottle, which helps to avoid drips and oil spills. To avoid deterioration of the oils only use the amount required for a massage when blending with essential oils. N.B. 25ml-50ml of base oil will be sufficient for a full body massage. This range is given only as a general guide and the exact quantity of oil used will depend on the type of oil used and the absorbency of your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin. Never pour the oil directly onto your clients body. Firstly pour a small quantity of oil onto the palm on one hand, rub your hands together to warm it slightly and then stroke the oil onto the body.

FORMULAE:

CARRIERS: SWEET ALMOND OIL

INTRODUCTORY FORMULAE – SKIN

Colour:

Very pale yellow

Obtained:

From the kernel

Contains:

Glucosides, minerals, vitamins, rich in protein, vitamin D Good for all skin types

Uses:

Helps relieve itching, soreness, dryness and inflammation.

Base Oil:

Can be used as a base oil, 100 percent.

WHEATGERM OIL

(Can be applied with either a base carrier oil or a non-perfumed, plain, non adulterated cream.)

FORMULAE – SKIN MOST SKIN TYPES

Colour:

Yellow/orange- obtained from germ or heart of wheat seed

Contains:

Protein, vitamins, minerals, vitamin E, fatty acids

Uses:

prematurely aged skin, improves circulation, all skin types,

Base Oil:

Use a 10 percent dilution

GRAPESEED OIL

Geranium Lavender Sandalwood Ylang Ylang Rose Chammomile

Colour:

Almost colourless or pale green – obtained from the seed

Contains:

Vitamins, minerals, protein

Uses:

All Skins

OILY & ACNE

Base Oil:

Can be used 100 percent

Tea Tree Cypress Lemon Grapefruit Peppermint for spot treatment only (blackheads) Bergamot Cypress Juniper (Use with unperfumed cream)

APRICOT KERNEL OIL Colour:

Pale yellow

Obtained:

From the kernel

Contains:

Minerals and vitamins

Uses:

All skins, especially prematurely aged, sensitive and dry skins

Base Oil:

Can be used as a base oil, 100 percent.

JOJOBA OIL Colour:

Yellow

Obtained:

From the bean

Contains:

Protein, minerals, a waxy substance that mimics sebun

Uses:

Inflamed skins, psoriasis, eczema, acne, hair care, all skins types, Highly penetrative

Base Oil:

Use as a 10 percent dilution, has long shelf life

SAFFLOWER OIL Colour:

Pale yellow – obtained from the seed

Contains:

Protein, minerals, vitamins

Uses:

All skin types

Base Oil:

Can be used 100 percent

DRY Lavender if red and sore Geranium Rose Sandalwood Orange

SENSITIVE

AVOCADO OIL Colour:

Dark Green

Obtained:

From the fruit

Contains:

Vitamins, protein, lecithin, fatty acids, Vitamins A,D, potassium

Uses:

All skins, especially dry, matured, dehydrated, eczema

Base Oil:

Use as an addition to a base oil, 10 percent dilution

Note: Olive oil is good for all skins and is an excellent general economical alternative rich with vitamins, minerals, protein, vitamin F and essential fatty acids.

Note: This formulae guide shows essential oils suitable for skin types and is mainly for use in relaxation facials and massage.

Rose Neroli Rosewood Lavender Chamomile Rosewood

BROKEN VEINS Neroli Sandalwood Cypress Lemon Chamomile Geranium Cypress the science of beauty

GOOD COMPATIBLE ESSENTIAL OIL COMBINATIONS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CHART 1

GOOD ESSENTIAL OIL COMBINATIONS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CHART 2.

(For any applications including body massage.)

(For any application including body massage.)

the science of beauty

Rosewood:

lavender, orange, chamomile, cedarwood, ylang ylang, bergamot, neroli, jasmine

Cedarwood:

lavender, orange, rosewood, rose geranium, jasmine, bergamot

Ylang Ylang:

lavender, chamomile, patchouli, orange, lemon, lime, jasmine, neroli, bergamot, black pepper, marjoram, clary sage

Jasmine:

neroli, lavender, chamomile, ylang ylang, patchouli, rosewood, orange, bergamot, mandarin, tangerine, clary sage

Neroli:

lavender, ylang ylang, orange, tangerine, mandarine, jasmine, chamomile, rosewood, lemon, bergamot, clary sage

Clary Sage:

lavender, rose geranium, neroli, ylang ylang, lemon, jasmine

Lime:

patchouli, ylang ylang, black pepper, lavender, bergamot, eucalyptus, rosemary, ginger

Patchouli:

ylang ylang, lime, black pepper, lavender, orange, jasmine

Bergamot:

lavender, lemon, ylang ylang, rosewood, jasmine, neroli, ginger, rose geranium, lime

Mandarin:

lavender, lemon, neroli, jasmine, rose geranium, chamomile

Tangerine:

lavender, lemon, rose geranium, chamomile, jasmine, neroli

Marjoram:

lavender, chamomile, orange, lemon, ylang ylang, rosemary, eucalyptus

Eucalyptus:

peppermint, orange, lemon, lavender, rosemary, marjoram, lime

Clove Bud:

lavender, lemon, orange, ginger, black pepper

Rosemary:

eucalyptus, lemon, orange, lavender, ginger, black pepper, grapefruit, peppermint, marjoram, wintergreen, lime

Wintergreen:

lavender, orange, lemon, ginger, black pepper, rosemary

Black Pepper:

lavender, orange, rosemary, patchouli, lime, lemon, clove, ginger, ylang ylang, wintergreen,

Ginger:

orange, rosemary, wintergreen, lavender, black pepper, clove bud, bergamot, rose geranium, lime

Clary Sage:

lavender, rose geranium, lemon, ylang ylang, jasmine, neroli, chamomile

THERAPEUTIC CROSS REFERENCE, WITH ESSENTIAL OILS. ANAEMIA

Lemon, thyme

ANALGESIC

Peppermint, lavender, clove, bergamot, wintergreen

ANTISEPTIC

Thyme, cinnamon, lavender, tea tree eucalyptus, rosemary

APHRODISIACS

Jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, patchouli, sandalwood

ARTHRITIS Chronic

Eucalyptus, rosemary, cajuput,lavender, juniper

Wendy Lockyear

Rheumatoid

Lavender, cajuput, wintergreen, rosemary, thyme

Gouty

Lavender, juniper, rosemary

Advance Massage Australasia. http://www.advancemassage.com.au

Muscular

Rosemary, eucalyptus, wintergreen, lavender, black pepper, marjoram

CIRCULATION High Blood Pressure

Lemon, lavender, ylang ylang

Low Blood Pressure

Thyme, rosemary

Poor Circulation

Lemon, juniper, rosemary, rose

Sluggish Lymphatic System

Grapefruit, lavender, rosemary

Varicose Veins

Lemon, cypress, calendula infused oil

COLDS

Eucalyptus, peppermint, pine, lemon

COUGHS

Eucalyptus, juniper, peppermint, lavender

DIGESTIVE Bilious attack

Peppermint

Constipation

Lemongrass, thyme, fennel, marjoram

Diarrhoea

Eucalyptus, lavender, peppermint, rosemary

Flatulence

Bergamot, fennel, peppermint

Indigestion

Peppermint, aniseed

MENSTRUAL Irregularity

Clary sage, fennel, lavender, peppermint, rose, chamomile

Amenorrhoea

Chamomile, clary sage, fennel, juniper

Dysmenorrhoea

Chamomile, clary sage, cypress, jasmine

Menorrhagia

Cypress, rose

Menopause

Chamomile, cypress, fennel, lavender

MUSCULAR Aches and Pains

Eucalyptus, sage, thyme, rosemary, lavender, marjoram

Bruises

Arnica, calendula, rosemary

Sprains

Eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, marjoram

Stiffness

Thyme, black pepper, rosemary

Lack of Tone

Lemongrass, lavender, rosemary

NERVOUS CONDITIONS Anger

Rose, chamomile, ylang ylang

Anxiety

Bergamot, thyme, juniper, lavender, geranium, cedarwood, frankincense, rose, jasmine

Headaches

Lavender, rosemary, thyme, peppermint

Insomnia

Lavender, chamomile, marjoram

Panic

Cinnamon, lavender, neroli, jasmine, ylang ylang

Sedative

Bergamot, sandalwood, ylang ylang, lavender, rose, jasmine

Stimulants

Peppermint, all citrus oils, eucalyptus, rosemary

OBESITY Cellulite

Fennel, juniper, lavender, rosemary, grapefruit, cypress, lemon

Fluid Retention

Eucalyptus, fennel, juniper, lavender, geranium

Oedema

Juniper, lavender, geranium

RESPIRATORY Asthma

Lemon, sage, thyme, lavender, pine, marjoram, frankincense

Bronchitis

Bergamot, eucalyptus, lemon, sage, pine, rosemary, sandalwood, cedarwood

Catarrh

Eucalyptus, lemon, thyme, lavender, peppermint

Coughs

Eucalyptus, thyme, lavender, rosemary

Hayfever

Peppermint, eucalyptus, aniseed

Sinus

Cajuput, peppermint, cinnamon, pine, lemon, eucalyptus

SKIN PROBLEMS Acne

Lavender, lemongrass, juniper, tea tree, bergamot, lemon, cypress

Eczema

Juniper, lavender, geranium, bergamot, tea tree, chamomile

Dermatitis

Lavender, sandalwood, bergamot

Psoriasis

Lavender, chamomile, bergamot

Sunburn

Lavender

Insect Repellent

Peppermint, citronella, eucalyptus, cedarwood, pennyroyal, lavender

the science of beauty

Cosmetics and Animal Test Legislation by Ric Williams

Since the last update a lot of talk has occurred. Firstly I and Jenny Brown attended the Labour Party public forum in Sydney, and Margaret Smith attended the public forum in Melbourne. If any others attended I apologise for their omission but this is the only name mentioned to me. The Executive Summary is below and the full report can be found on the website listed at the end of this summary. This report, I believe, fairly treated both sides however, there was one case where we have not been quoted completely, in that, we saw 2 to 5 years for implementation not just 5. This issue has been raised with Clare O’Neil’s office. My feeling was that the report did not emphasise the legal and legislative hurdles enough but with the vast majority not making this comment it is probably understandable. Also interesting is the disclaimer at the end where they say any change will be difficult out of political opposition.

The Australian Labour Party Cosmetics and Animal Testing Policy Consultation Report Executive Summary The Australian Labour Party held a national consultation on cosmetics and animal testing between 10th July 2014 22

the science of beauty

and 29th August 2014. The consultation had three parts: • Public Submissions: 13,680 submissions were received. • Public Forums: Public forums were held in six capital cities across Australia with between 30 and 90 people attending each forum. • Stakeholder Submissions: Animal welfare groups; legal experts, and industry bodies made written submissions and also attended inperson meetings with MP’s. In garnering the views of so many Australians thousands of views were heard. They cannot possibly be captured in detail in the report, instead the report on the ten themes that came up consistently during the consultation. 1 There is broad support for a ban on animal testing. 2 Animal testing is seen as unnecessary. 3 There are several policy complexities that must be considered. 4 A retrospective ban is not desired. 5 There are differing views on exceptions, timeframes and legislative options. 6 There are several enforcement options. 7 There are precedents for change in other countries. 8 A ban represents an opportunity for

industry and researchers. 9 Several related issues may require further consideration. 10 There is a strong call for action. Labour will use the perspectives shared throughout the public consultation to inform development of policy options. These options are to be discussed with the Labour Caucus over the coming months. For future updates please check the website; http://www.alp.org.au/ cosmeticstesting Clare O’Neil 17th September 2014 Secondly, as mentioned in the Labour Party consultation report it mentions stakeholder submissions and in-person meetings with MP’s. One of these in-person meetings I attended (with Clare O’Neil MP for Hotham (Vic)

and Stephen Jones Opposition Deputy Minister for Health and MP for Throsby (NSW)) where I expressed the views that were outlined in the draft submission as had been shown on the ASCC website. I have since had contact with Clare O’Neil’s office and anticipate further discussions as the Labour Party forms its full policy. Thirdly, and many thanks to Stephen Morris (SA), I had a one-on-one meeting with Senator Anne Ruston (Lib – SA) where these issues were also discussed. Sen Ruston is assisting the Liberal Government in writing and forming their policy on this issue, as the Minister for Health (The Hon. Peter Dutton) and the Deputy Minister for Health (Sen Fiona Nash) are busy elsewhere. It was interesting speaking to Senator Ruston, at her offices in Canberra, as information was supplied that the Senator did not know about and she suggested that this should be supplied directly to Senator Lea Rhiannon (Greens) in an effort to get her to amend the Bill before submitting this back into

Parliament. Sen Ruston’s aide assisted and arranged the one-on-one meeting with Senator Rhiannon that day. While I did get a chance to personally put forward our views and explain the legislative and legal difficulties (both verbally and later in a written report) I have had no further correspondence with Sen Rhiannon. In conclusion, it seems that The “End Cruel Cosmetics Bill 2014”, introduced into Parliament by Senator Lee Rhiannon, will not be supported, in its current form, by either the Liberal Party or Labour Party. The general feeling was that it was poorly worded and would cause hardship to the industry as it did not consider current binding legislation that requires animal testing to be carried out on new raw materials. Both the Liberal Party and Labour Party are forming their own policies and I have been invited to assist/advise in forming the outcomes. I must also thank Craig Brock (ACCORD) with whom I have also had discussions and, as we seem to be very closely aligned in our submissions, have

agreed to co-operate on future work in this area. For further information or assistance please contact me at ric@cosmepeutics.net.au Ric Williams September 28, 2014

the science of beauty

building meaningful brands by Murray Hunter

In a busy world where so many brands exist to snap our attention, developing a substantive brand concept is one of the most important things about developing, marketing, and sustaining any product, or group of products. Get your branding wrong and most probably, your product fails. Get your branding wrong and you just have to do so much more work distributing and selling your product, than you could have. Get your branding wrong and your product may not be sustainable and become a one or two year wonder. As the author has said on these pages before, there are so many brands about, and consumers are fatigued. Anything less than a substantive product will most probably attract a ‘one time’ purchase, or worse still relegate your product to outlets that specialise in clearing ‘old stocks’ and failures. A brand is not just a word, slogan, or smart looking logo. A brand should be a total configuration of product/strategy attributes as shown in the figure below. Branding incorporates features that give us our general impressions. It personifies both tangible and intangible benefits, where the emphasis should be

I 24

the science of beauty

on the intangibles. And this is signaled to the consumer through packaging, fragrance, and other product associations. Where the product is channeled supports all this. Location is everything, and sends consumers very strong messages. A product should be personified by a powerful theme that conveys the

The key is about building a theme

meaning of a product to the consumer. The theme approach to branding is a useful tool to meet the consumer paradigm shifts occurring in various markets today. Several contemporary themes can be equated with a number of growing consumer segments that are emerging today. For example, some contemporary Western consumers are losing their faith and trust in the established institutions of the Western culture, including the church, government and corporations. This loss of faith and trust is creating a spiritual vacuum where consumers are searching for something that is missing. There is a similar situation in China where growing middle-upper class have been brought up without religion and no longer feel affinity to the “old revolutionary culture” of China. This situation is leading consumers in a number of directions: • As society is becoming more ‘self centred’ in their aspirations, custom made goods and personal customer service is now very important. This can be seen in the rise of private banking, custom made computers and cars, tailor-made suits and fashions, and shopping for unique items in specialised shops rather than chains. • Consumers are looking for unique items that are hand-made, exclusive and come from an ethical background to fill the spiritual void. The rise of Fairtrade and establishment of farmers markets and eco-tourism is providing consumers with more fulfilling consumption experiences. • Consumer alternatism gives rise to alternative marketing and promotional strategies such as viral marketing and on-line buying through the internet. Shopping in this way provides the consumer with a story and feeling of control. • Seeking alternatives is leading to less consumer brand loyalty and more experimentation with new products and new brands, as well as quick changes, meaning shorter product lifecycles. The development of new brands and new images is more widely

accepted than before. New brands and images give new experiences like the low cost airline Air Asia has done in winning new customers in South East Asia. Likewise, adventure and eco-tourism is rapidly growing as consumers look for new experiences in their leisure time. • The new generation feels no guilt about ‘over the top’ luxury as the post war generation did. Top luxury is acceptable to both self esteem and social exposure as this generation fulfills are role in a live for today in the white collar professional job market. Luxury is about feeling good and looking good. • People are very concerned about health and the sector is growing rapidly with five star private hospitals, health tourism and the rise of nutraceuticals and cosmoceuticals. Organic foods sold at premium prices are growing. Sports wear and sports equipment is about being seen and trendy, gyms are full and racing bikes dominate the roads during weekends. • People want to deal with corporate entities that do the right thing. People are then doing the right thing by association – a kind of spiritual materialism. This shows in the rise in ethical products and companies with social programs and supply chains that

benefit those that are not as fortunate. Successful market paradigms (themes) utilised by well known international companies are outlined in the table at foot of page. Each company has been able to create a solid position in international markets by following a definite corporate and marketing philosophy based on a theme. Not many companies have completely connected all the possible paradigms together into one complete corporate image and philosophy, except for Aveda and The Body Shop, although the Body Shop has not been without criticisms. There is a link between company platform (i.e., Aveda owned by Estee Lauder) and size. Good and opportune branding also requires strong channel access to succeed. One should also note that there is a growing momentum of small to medium young companies that are achieving dramatically high sales growth rates through the utilisation of themes in their marketing and corporate strategies. Companies from the 19th Century began developing brands to differentiate their products from their competition. Brands probably developed in the tobacco industry, where different tobaccos in regional America began to be transported to different locations and therefore had to be identified by a

Aveda

The Body Shop

Sureco

Hain Celestial Group

Est. Sales

USD120million (1996) USD619mil (2006)

USD1.5Billion (2006)

USD40Mil

USD738Mil (2006)

Location

USA

Malaysia

USA

Established

1978

1976

Products Basic Philosophy

1999

1926

Personal Care

Herbs

Organic food and cosmetics

To sustain the environment and give back to communities

Social humanitarianism activism on many issues

Halal & Toyyibaan

Free of artificial ingredients, Kosher foods

Ethics

Yes

Green

Yes

Natural

Yes

Organic

Yes

Community

Yes

Cultural Religious/Spiritual Mode of Distribution Direct Marketing/Salon Owner

Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

Yes

Retail and e-Commerce

Direct Marketing

General distribution

L’Oreal

Private Ownership

Listed company

the science of beauty

brand. Coca Cola was a soft drink that carried the name to distinguish it from the number of other colas on the market. Proctor & Gamble in Cincinnati found in the 1930’s that it had a number of successful brands in the same category like Camay and Ivory soaps that needed a new way to manage so that due focus could be given to each brand. The company gave responsibility for total brand management to a single person (product manager) under a brand management system, which took over all decision making in regards to the brand in the company. Brand management spread throughout most consumer goods companies and is still a widely practiced functional structuring of a marketing organisation today. The rationale behind the development of products had traditionally been designed around a mix of physical product, price, place and promotion, known as the 4Ps. This was considered the most important part of the marketing strategy. This was not a big breakthrough, but a convenient way to view and think about product strategy. The 4Ps concept was developed at a time when mass industrial marketing was growing rapidly. In recent times the orientation of marketing strategy has dramatically widened as the 4P’s have become much more integrated and other factors like customer needs and wants, cost, convenience, communication, distribution and relationships. Recently Kotler has taken the approach that a product exists on a number of levels. The core benefit the product provides to the consumer is the nucleus. The physical features, made up of packaging, brand and quality level is considered the actual product. Finally the support features or augmented product include additional consumer services such as installation, after sales service, warranty and delivery and credit. A product theme focus should consider four major issues. Firstly, what is the central theme of the product? This must consider the basic satisfaction the product will give to consumers’ aspirations. This will include the design of all product 26

the science of beauty

features and benefits to consumers, including branding and packaging, etc. Secondly, how much competition is there? Are there others out there with similar themes, ideas, philosophies and products? Thirdly, What will be the channel of distribution? Will the product and the message be able to reach those who may be interested in the product. Finally, are there enough consumers? Are there enough people interested in the chosen theme and product? Company philosophy, branding, strategy, channels and physical product should all support the theme. (See diagram above.) The acceptance of a new product/ theme in the market has a degree of risk associated with it. The further away a company moves away from a generally accepted product theme, the higher the risk. Consumer acceptance depends upon a number of complex factors including the prevailing culture, existing and emerging sub-cultures, product ambience, the target group and the advertising budget. Products and themes have to meet basic needs of people and provide perceived benefits. New products must therefore solve a consumer problem or meet a particular need or want. Products must also be consistent with consumer culture, although consumer habits can be changed. Themes must also be acceptable

and conducive to satisfying consumer wants and needs, whether they be psychological like the need for health, to feel good about something, to keep pace with their neighbors, etc. or spiritual needs such as the need to help, give or save the environment, etc. Globalism is bringing new ideas to different cultures around the world. Cultures vary in the resistance they have to new ideas. Values and beliefs also differ among age, social, religious, ethnic and socio-economic groupings (sub-cultures) within a market. Acceptance by a target group will depend upon how far away the product/theme is from the group’s traditional ideas and values. Advertising is a tool for drawing attention to a new product/theme in the community. Advertising is also a method of assuring the community that the product is good and the theme is something important and should be taken notice of. Advertising increases the scope of a company to be theme innovative. Products with low advertising budgets must generally follow others and emulate others’ concepts as much as possible for any chance of sales. Generally speaking a product/theme can depart more from the traditional when a product is targeted at a specific sub-group, rather than the whole general community. Products aimed

Innovation Resistance for New Product/Themes Traditional Under Developed Markets

Developing Markets

Cosmopolitan and Developed market

Culture and subcultures

Static and rigid towards change

Slowly evolving or faster changing sub-cultures

Dynamic or in transition

Product Ambience

Ritual

Individual or creative

Target Group

Mass market

Mass market or Selective

Selective

Advertising Budget

Low

High at launch for assistance

High or specifically targeted

Strategy

Keep new products within existing market categories

Can experiment with developing new categories

Can aggressively develop new categories

Risk

Risk of launching innovative products too early in market

Growth may be slow in developing categories

High risk if fail to see correct potential ‘niches’ ‘Niches’ too small

Either a major new brand (same product) introduction to mass market or a new product/theme targeted at a specific group

Specific products for specific consumer groups (submarkets)

Generic products Examples

Local brands in developing markets

at the general community cannot be too radically different from what is already on the market, if risk is to be

minimised. To establish how innovative a new product/theme can be, the above factors and market must be thoroughly

understood. Often factors will point to different trends and directions, and this must be reconciled as to its meaning for new product/themes. Product differentiation is necessary to gain competitive advantage, however too radical differentiation can miss consumer needs and aspirations, and fail to gain mass consumer acceptance. Innovation resistance for new product/themes is shown in the table above. Finally, the company can begin developing the technical aspects of the product concept, knowing what themes and characteristics the project must fulfill. This gives you the best chance of building up a meaningful brand. Good Luck.

the science of beauty

sun sunscreen highlights

by John Staton

US Senate gives sunscreens a boost !!! The Senate passed a bill on Sept 17th 2014 that aims to improve sunscreen protection. Sen. Jack Reed (D-R.I.) introduced the Sunscreen Innovation Act. This requires a faster tracking of review and approval of OTC sunscreens. A coalition – Public Access to Sun Screens (PASS) – has been lobbying this issue for several years. A primary objective is to finalise the approval of additional sunscreen actives, which have been with the FDA for up to 15 years. These are U.V. absorbers which now have long (time) use in (extent) of many millions of users in most other countries.

TGA drafts new labelling order A new Therapeutic Goods Order – No 79, has been drafted to replace the current TGO 69. This changes some requirements for labelling of TGA sunscreens and all other therapeutic medicines. TGA have prepared a draft as well as a document that compares the two and highlights the changes. Some variances include requirements to declare additional excipients, type font sizes and information panels. The draft is open until November for submissions. Once implemented, a three to four year transition period will apply. 28

the science of beauty

http://www.tga.gov.au/newsroom/ consult-labelling-medicines-140822. htm#.VBp-P1Y99Zg

New sunscreen active approved in EU Tinosorb ® A2B* – INCI name Tris-Biphenyl Triazine – is the first UV filter to be included in the positive list (Annex VI) of the new EU Cosmetics Regulation. “Tinosorb A2B equally protects against UVB and UVAII radiation, thereby making an important contribution to preventing skin cancer and light-induced skin aging. After a long approval process we are delighted that we are now allowed to bring the UV filter to market and that our customers can use it in sunscreen products ,” said Dirk Mampe, head of Business Management for Personal Care Specialties Europe. Source: BASF Corporate Website

GMP discussions ongoing Negotiations generated as a result of the TGA move from a “customised” Sunscreen GMP code to adoption of the PIC’s GMP Code are still a work in progress. The latest focus is on the question of the “Release for Supply”

process which applies to each and every batch of product manufactured under therapeutic GMP. Six scenarios have been proposed in an attempt to cover all permutations of the steps of manufacture from – bulk to fill – primary packaging – to secondary packaging – to relabelling. Input was sought by end of September before a final guidance is published.

Israel joins ISO Sunscreen Standards adoption In August, Israel became the latest country to adopt ISO Sunscreen standards. Basically, the E.U. model was picked up. One unique requirement appears. Water resistance is required to based on 75% retention after immersion rather than E.U. 50% – a compromise perhaps between Europe and FDA/ Australia!

Sunscreen application video goes viral! Want to see how well you have applied your sunscreen? A video entitled “How the sun sees you” has had over 13 million hits since upload to YouTube Worth a look!! https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=o9BqrSAHbTc

Supporting product innovation

Formulation Analytical Validation Stability Studies New Product Development Tec Te T e ecchnical echni cal al Co al Con C onsu nsu sulllta ltta ttanc ncy n nc cyy Se S rrvi rviccess Pt Pty Ltd Ltd

the science of beauty

another world first from

NATIVE EXTRACTS – the largest, most unique range of Organic Wild Harvested Australian Native Seed Oils will be launched at InCosmetics Asia.

NATIVE EXTRACTS is adding er world first to their achievements this year as they announce they will be launching a range of the most unique Organic Wild Harvested NATIVE SEED OILS that the cosmetic industry has seen this decade. It’s been 2 years since NATIVE EXTRACTS launched their innovation of “cellular extraction process” releasing over 70 new Organic Wild Harvested Native Botanical Extracts that out perform global antioxidant benchmarks; and 12 months since they announced their world breakthrough and what some have called the holy grail in Cosmetics, with their Kakadu Plum extract stabilising natural vitamin C in an aqueous format for over 12 months – today they launch another first: the largest, unique range of exciting new sources of fatty acids profiles, from Australia’s rich bio-diversity. “Now Cosmetics have over 30 new sources of fatty acid profiles to create new points of difference. They are unique, organic, and offer new imagery and new alternatives to what the industry has been using for so many years,” says Lisa Carroll, co-founder and Director NATIVE EXTRACTS Pty Ltd. InCosmetics Asia will be their official launch of these world first seed oils –

the science of beauty

Kakadu Plum Seed Oil, Kangaroo Apple Seed Oil, Banksia Seed Oil, Quandong, Emu Apple, Native Sandalwood and the list goes on. Samples and technical information will be available at the NATIVE EXTRACTS booth as well as the opportunity to hear how the extracts industry is evolving with the arrival of the first “True to Nature” extracts, “cellular extraction”, and the largest library of unique Australian native Wild Harvested and Organic certified extracts ever seen, presented at the Innovation Seminar by Co-founder and Managing Director Ross Macdougald. Exciting new discoveries are being generated by NATIVE EXTRACTS’ research into Australian botanical species as well as a new look at new efficacies in non-Australian botanical extracts achieved through cellular extraction innovations. “We have a clearer understanding of what is held within a cell wall as well as how to capture it and stabilising it. Giving the cosmetic industry a new perspective on botanical extracts and the role in a formulation as they deliver the multi-functionality of full plant profiles in a single extract that is natural, organic, potent and stable,” says Lisa Carroll.

Co-Founders, NATIVE EXTRACTS Pty Ltd Lisa Carroll and Ross Macdougald

“The NATIVE SEED OIL range is a natural extension to the discoveries we have made in our cellular hydrophilic extracts range. It extends our commitment to deliver a new palate of activity and interesting sources of raw materials to the innovative formulator wanting to work with real, naturally derived potency, to create exciting new products for the rapidly growing trend of consumers demanding “Back to Nature” solutions”, says Lisa Carroll. NATIVE EXTRACTS is emerging as the most innovative natural cosmetic raw material manufacturer seen this decade, opening new scientific frontiers for the Cosmetic, Nutraceutical and Pharmaceutical industries with their library of valuable data generating by their R&D initiatives.

The most unique range of Organic Wild Harvested

A new palette of fatty acids to formulate with…. A new range of imagery to differentiate with….

NATIVE SEED OIL Agapanthus

Jasmine (Native)

Banksia

Kakadu Plum

Bats Wing Coral

Kangaroo Apple

Bean (Native) Tree

Kapok Tree

Bush Caper

Mallotus Berry

Crown of Gold

Mango

Cypress Black

Orange (Native)

Cypress Blue

Mt Pepper Berry

Davidson Plum

Quandong

Desert Lime

Riberry

Emu Apple

Rose (Native) Desert

Emu Bush

Rosella (Native)

Finger Lime

Sandalwood (Native)

Firewheel Tree

Tamarind (Native)

Flame Tree

Snowflower

Frangipani (Native)

Turkish Delight

Gardenia (Native)

Wattle

The latest in oil soluble activity derived from Australia’s potent bio-diversity.

...for a new era of cosmetics

www.nativeextracts.com

enquiries@nativeextracts.com P +61 2 6624 5191 the science of beauty

Take the natural path with ® ® Veegum and Vanatural clays Formulating stable and sensory appealing natural emulsions, suspensions and foams can sometimes be a struggle. Veegum® and Vanatural® clays enable formulators to easily produce elegant and stable natural cosmetics that can be sprayed easily, at any pH and readily accepted worldwide. Veegum® and Vanatural® products are natural smectite clays that have been water-washed to optimise purity and performance. Vanderbilt’s Minerals diversified reserves in the U.S southwest are the foundation of our clay’s reputation for uniformity and quality. Veegum® (Magnesium Aluminium Silicate) products are offered primarily for pharmaceutical and personal care applications, although they are widely used in other areas as well.

F 32

the science of beauty

Vanatural® (bentonite Clay) products are designed for personal care applications, particularly those that require OMRITM ECOCERT GreenlifeTM or COSMOSTM listing as ingredients. All grades of Veegum® and Vanatural® clays undergo the same water-washing process and meet the same standard of clay purity. Veegum® and Vanatural® are valued by formulators of personal care and pharmaceutical products for their ability to: Stabilise Emulsions – One of the most useful features of these natural clays is their ability to stabilize oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions at low concentrations. Once hydrated (figure 1), a three dimensional colloidal structure forms, commonly called the “house of cards” (figure 2). The formation of this

colloidal structure accounts for the characteristic rheology imparted by these clays. Since this structure effectively keeps the internal phase is not affected by heat, these clays reduce the tendency of emulsions to thin out and break at elevated temperatures. Small amounts – typically 1-2% – will stabilised emulsions containing anionic or nonionic surfactants and wide variety of oils, fats, and waxes. These clays are also effective in f luid water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions that are otherwise difficult to stabilise; they inhibit coalescence by increasing internal phase viscosity and by strengthening the interfacial water/ oil film. Stabilise Suspensions – like its emulsion stabilising property, the colloidal structure of these natural clays

Figure 1: Hydration process

provides excellent suspension of fine particles in aqueous systems. These Clays: • Suspend even high density particulates, • Prevent hard packing; suspensions that tend to settle are easily redispersed, • Ensure pharmaceutical suspensions of uniform dosage, • Achieve maximum suspension without losing pourability, • Do not form gelatinous, irreversible gels, as do many organic gums, • Offer better suspension efficiency than most organic gums at equal viscosity. Stabilise Organic and Natural Formulations – Vanatural® and Veegum® Pure clays are listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRITM). Vanatural®, Vanatural® XGB and Veegum Pure clays are authorised by ECOCERT GreenlifeTM as complying with the ECOCERTTM as complying with the ECOCERTTM and COSMOSTM Standards for ecological and organic

cosmetics. Modify Rheology – Shear-thinning products with controlled thixotropy can be formulated. Rich emulsions spread smoothly. Suspensions and emulsions freely pump or pour without losing stability. Enhance Skin Feel – Veegum® and Vanatural® contribute spread-ability and cosmetic elegance to topical products. Because of their insoluble, platy nature they are used to formulate tack-free topical products and to reduce or eliminate the tacky, gummy or stringy nature of organic and polymers. Modify Organic Thickeners – In addition to their tactile benefits, Veegum® and Vanatural® clays are often used with organic thickeners to enhance the best characteristics of each. The clays contribute synergistic viscosity and yield value. Gums and polymers provide a protective colloidal action that improves the clay’s stability in the presence of

electrolytes, surfactants, and other water solubles. Perform at High and Low pH – Veegum® and Vanatural® clays are routinely used in products spanning the pH 2 to pH 13 range. These include AHA emulsions, antiperspirants, antacids and internal analgesic suspensions. Certain grades are particularly effective at pH extremes, where pH stability is further extended by protective colloids such as xanthan gum. Function with Most Additives – As anionic clays, Veegum® and Vanatural® clays are compatible with most anionics and nonionics; they are incompatible with most cationics. Resist Degradation – Because they are minerals, Veegum® and Vanatural® clays are not decomposed by bacteria, heat or excess mechanicals shear. When considering natural rheology modifiers, make Veegum® and Vanatural® products your first choice. For samples, formulation advice or technical information on VEEGUM® or VANATURAL ® range, please contact A S Harrison & Co on 02 8978 1000 or ash.sales@harrison.com.au

Figure 2: House of card structure increases yield value

the science of beauty

PS ...

Professional / Product / Personal Safety

Modern Beauty Culture: Australian Cosmetics in the Early 20th Century by Wendy Free

“

Findings suggest that women wear make-up to adhere to a strict societal appearance code and from this code they derive secondary benefits such as power, status, sexual allurement, and increased self-esteem. The use of makeup is extremely ritualistic and harnesses the properties of myth and magic to create powerful transformations. Make-up itself is a liminal product that is consumed during these transformations”1. So how did our “Modern Beauty Culture2” begin, and what inf luence did Australians have on our industry of today?

The 1900’s In 1907 Helena Rubenstein, dubbed the ‘woman who invented beauty’ became an Australian citizen. Born Chaja Rubenstein reportedly in 1870, (1871 and 1872) she immigrated to Australia from Poland in 1902; to avoid an arranged marriage, following her early departure from medical school (because she couldn’t stomach the practical aspects). The eldest of eight daughters, born to Jewish shopkeepers, she quickly sold a number of jars of Dr Jacob Lykusky’s precious Modjeska face cream brought with her, and when she could acquire no more from home; thereafter made 34

the science of beauty

her own. Various sources state that the original cream contained herbs, essence of almonds and a bark extract from Carpathian fir tree; subsequently her own product was reputed to contain lanolin, lavender, water lilies and herbs imported from the Carpathian Mountains. While the precise recipe may be lost to time, her methods of marketing personal care products are arguably even today, the cornerstone of the industry; In 1902, when Australian women got the vote, Rubinstein ‘coincidentally’ opened her first beauty salon in Melbourne, proclaiming ‘’beauty is power’’ and that ‘’scientific cosmetics’’ were the way to go. Much of her personal and professional history has become obscured, with some grain of truth interspersed amongst personal glories, miraculous products and reports of ruthlessness and a driven passion. Some say ‘Madam’ was unethical in her approaches, bribing reporters with jewels and reducing her age as she travelled and expanded her businesses to London, New York and Paris. Regardless today, we still dream the dreams of beauty, luxury and power intermingled with far away destinations, exotic ingredients and a little science.

When she died in 1965, Rubinstein’s empire was worth $100 million, had a global staff of 32,000, and the cosmetic industry was f lourishing worldwide. L’Oreal purchased her company in 1998. *** Early manufacturing business in Australia included Colgate-Palmolive Pty Ltd, in Balmain from 1923 – 1976, who launched the US born Palmolive soap in 1924. By 1925 there were 144 people employed at Balmain by ColgatePalmolive – 96 in the factory and 48 in the office and sales sections. In 1928 the factory began production of Colgate toothpaste. During the 1950s and 1960s shampoos and various household cleaning products were added to the Colgate range. Ending the era in 1993, the plant was closed. ***

thin stream, stirring all the time. Then add the spirit with continued stirring until a clear honey colour. Saponification takes 20 minutes. A whisky or sherry barrel is considered the best vessel for this cold process manufacture, as a wine barrel will stain the shampoo for the first few batches. *** At about the same time as Madam Rubenstein had begun growing her business, Washington H Soul Pattinson & Co Limited became incorporated in New South Wales; today we know it as Soul Pattinson Chemist (Faulding’s had been established in Adelaide as early as 1845). Government restrictions during the 1940’s and 50’s, curtailing the growth of pharmacies prompted the introduction ‘cosmetic counters’ featuring internationally renowned brands such as Max Factor, Revlon and (of course) Helena Rubenstein. *** Described ‘The Argus’ (newspaper), 14th February 1950; as “Pioneers in Australia’s Cosmetic Industry”, were J&W Ross Cosmetics Pty Ltd in Batman Street West Melbourne, a name still familiar today. Then, as now salons used both Australian made and imported products. From the 23rd of March 19354 you may have wished to visit Marie Navarre, 1942 saw a temporary ban3 on manufacture and sale of some cosmetics because their constituents were more urgently needed for the war effort, for munitions and for building up of reserves of medical supplies; this prohibition did not however extend to ‘cosmetics which could legitimately be considered necessary, for example women could still get face powders and cleaning and vanishing creams’. *** During the early and mid-century, Friday night was ‘Amami night’, the designed night of the week to wash your hair; using #1 formula if you had dark hair, or #5 for fair hair. Advertisements from the 30’s indicate that for just 9d (pennies) you could purchase a bottle, sufficient for two washes, complete with lemon juice rinsing powder; (The alternative was soap power at 1d for 4oz). Chemists (now called pharmacies) did make their own liquid soap shampoos. A recipe for making ‘coconut shampoo’ from 1944 reads (in part); Coconut Oil 40lb Caustic Potash 4 ½ lb Caustic soda 4 lb Industrial spirit (60OP) 2 ½ gal Water ….to 20gal Dissolve the alkali in 2 gallons of water and then melt the oil, while still warm, not hot, pour into the lye in a the science of beauty

Cosmetic Manufacturer, Beauty Specialist and personal consultant; 146 Edwards Street Brisbane, who in 1936 introduced the Wella Vapour Permanent Wave (safe, sure and scientific – 30/ per full head); and while there perhaps you might have also like to sample her sunscreen, dandruff treatment or Strawberry Vitamin Cleansing Cream (for Brunettes). Then as now, we had a yearning for the new and exotic; being well supported with ingredients and base formulations from local suppliers. A review of Australian newspaper archives presents a plethora of articles about and of interest to the industry: perhaps on Sunday 15th March 1952 obscurely emphasised their importance “COSMETICS! Don’t let import cuts panic you about those cosmetic supplies. All such are assured and there’s no danger of them “going under the counter’ unless you rush in and stock up as though for a siege”5; however apparently then as now Federal government was not supportive of the industry: “Christy Products (Australia) Ltd was narrowing its range of cosmetic products and expanding other activities, Mr AC Trumble, general manager, said yesterday at the annual meeting. No one know what the Federal Budget would do to that type of industry, and directors and management were constantly thinking of safer lines” However in December of the same year Mr Roy V Titus (son of Helen Rubenstein) stated that Women in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific used cosmetics to the value of 20,000 pounds annually6, (approximately 0.01% of GDP) and equal to by today’s values, approximately $6.8m. 36

the science of beauty

It seems that then, as now Australian’s made and sold beautiful cosmetic products produced with love and passion, and while its tempting to think that, in our industry, ‘everything’ has to be new, its nice to know, that in some way’s – nothing’s really changed. Mrs Wendy Free B.Sc M.Tech Mngt MASM MRACI FAOQ talktous@qualitymatterssafetymatters.com.au

Further Reading http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/rubinstein-helena-8293 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helena_Rubinstein http://jwa.org/encyclopedia/article/rubinstein-helena http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/books/madame-had-many-faces20120510-1ydnj.html http://www.soulpattinson.com.au/history http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/37019862

References 1 The Semiotics Of Visible Face Make-Up: The Masks Women Wear. Madeleine Ogilvie 2005 2 I came across a copy of the 1933 text book “Modern Beauty Culture” some months ago, inside was a plethora of historic information, and interspersed between the pages some of the notes and letters left behind from Marie Navarre’s business; some of which have been reproduced for this article. 3 http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/25897930 4 http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/35887186 5 http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/23168631?searchTerm=Cosmetic& searchLimits=l-advtitle=13|||l-advcategory=Article 6 http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/117539920?searchTerm=Cosmetic &searchLimits=l-advcategory=Article#pstart12797325

the science of beauty

the price of ‘dermatologically tested’ claims by Emanuela Elia

It is a popular claim, appearing on cosmetic, personal care products and even household products to name a few. What does ‘dermatologically tested’ mean? It is generally accepted that the definition of ‘dermatologically tested’ relates to the fact that the finished product has been tested on human skin; that the formula is mostly safe to be applied on the skin; that the finished product is well tolerated and in most cases will not cause a skin reaction. It is important to note that such a claim has not currently been regulated in terms of its exact meaning, nor are there uniform standards across the industry on what test procedure is to be followed to substantiate such a claim. Although there are a number of recommendations and guidelines issued over the years by different regulatory authorities, and various types of published methods, testing facilities around the globe offer different solutions for human safety testing in vivo. One of the most popular tests to substantiate ‘dermatologically tested’ claim is the Human Repeated Insult Patch test (HRIPT), which involves repeated application of the test product followed by a rest period and then a challenge phase with a new application of the product, after which a final skin

the science of beauty

evaluation is conducted. This test aims to detect the product’s potential to cause irritation and sensitisation.

Demand and supply Since the product marketers are ultimately responsible for ensuring substantiation of their product safety, most distributers of cosmetic and personal care products have a full understanding of the scientific procedure involved for testing the safety of their products. Their technical or R&D department is often involved in the decision regarding the type of testing and the number of subjects required to substantiate their products’ safety claims. On the other hand it happens that a number of cosmetic companies are not well informed about the process involved in in vivo safety testing and are allured by testing service providers that offer safety testing at exceptionally low cost. In a competitive global market, it is not surprising that services can be offered at a much cheaper price in some developing countries - with their pros and cons. It is somewhat surprising though, that service providers in some of the world’s major economies can offer services 10 or 20 times cheaper than other providers in the same country or other developed countries. The scrupulous scientist would be prompted to ask: how?

Testing conducted on a great number of products at once on the same person (some will test up to 50!) Dermatological considerations: the HRIPT aims at detecting the potential of the product to cause irritation and sensitisation. The more products you test simultaneously on one subject, the more difficult it is to attribute a certain result to one product. With more products there are likely to be more unknown variables associated with potential interactions between multiple products. Ethical considerations: Sensitization is the process by which humans can develop over time increased allergic responses to a substance through repeated exposure to that substance. It is different from irritation because it involves the immune response. Due to immune response, the reaction becomes worse with repeated exposure. The HRIPT has therefore the potential to cause an immune response. It does not seem

justified to expose a human to such risk multiplied by 50 times.

Testing products from different clients on the same person More ethical considerations: it has been referred as “shared backs” the practice of patch testing products belonging to a number of different cosmetic companies on the same person’s back. The problem that arises from such practice is related to the safety of the human volunteers. Who is responsible for any damage to the subject that is caused by the test product(s) when multiple companies have been testing their products on the same subject? Although the event of severe reactions could be rare, it is certainly a possibility.

Testing procedures that allow a high margin of error Scientific considerations: a scientific test involves well-controlled testing methods based upon standardized operating procedures. To ensure consistency in times of exposure to the

product, all applications of product, removal of patches, and evaluations of skin condition should be performed by trained professionals at the test facility. If there are a large number of products being tested at once, there is a higher chance that an error can occur at any point in time that will affect the results of the test. Cosmetic and personal care companies that are serious about making safety claims about their products and serious about the safety of their consumers, should question testing facilities with regards to their testing procedures.

General considerations Although cosmetic ingredients being used in the test products could be deemed to be safe and the risk for the test subjects is generally low, some of the products being tested are new formulations that have not been on the market before. As such, the testing companies are conducting an experiment, and it cannot be assumed that the products being tested are safe

and will not cause a reaction. It is, therefore, essential to minimize the potential risk to the test subject by testing a small number of products at once from the same company, or even one product at a time, if required. At a time when the recent European ban to animal testing for cosmetic products - which has been also proposed in other countries including Australia - emphasises the life of animals against cosmetic research, we are asked to consider practices involving human beings. In vivo dermatological testing needs to be based on a rigorous ethical conduct which emphasises the safety of volunteers and achieving the best outcome for the clients. EMANUELA ELIA is the Director of Ozderm, formely Derming Australia, which specialises in in vivo testing and clinical trials for cosmetic and personal care products. Emanuela Elia has a law degree from Rome and a Master of International Business from the University of Sydney. She had collaborated with Australia’s longest serving Contract Research Organisation Datapharm for a few years before setting up a cosmetic and personal care products testing facility in 2009. Emanuela is enthusiastic about improving the quality of cosmetic and personal care products’ research in Australia through science.

the science of beauty

manufacturers musings

Lessons from my MUM

My mum was a classic collector (and possible hoarder) of stuff. As she got older she became what we called “scientific” because of the many food experiments she kept in the fridge and pantry. As mum got older, we took on greater responsibility for the contents of the fridge, freezer and pantry and Ian (see my previous article on dishwasher Nazis) would immediately chuck the obviously failed experiments. Both of us were always amused at the number of packets we found without “best by” dates – a sure indicator of great age. Most Mums are extremely protective of their children and in this respect, my Mum had an almost maternal instinct towards her ‘experiments’. At least that was the case until the day when I leapt across the sofa to grab the bickie she was about to put into her mouth. The dip she had just scooped onto the biscuit had turned grey with pink, black and green moulds. She put her glasses on and was not all that impressed. A weekly examination of the fridge was accepted from that point. Many of us become this sort of scientist as we get bigger fridges and start collecting containers of partially consumed items. It is both “eee – yeww”

the science of beauty

and fascinating to discover an older specimen happily growing in the rear of level 1 of the “cold stability fridge” at home. Now as I get older and more “scientific”, I have a tendency to claim the lost container as a ridgy didge experiment and check out exactly what has grown on the tortellini...endlessly enthralling. Ho hum??? On the positive side, not all the wild things are bad. Both hubby and I have a bit of a penchant for fermenting and growing stuff and have come to appreciate the wonders of yeast. He for the elegant wine and me for the herby or fruiting mush that may unlock a new and exciting end result topically not internally or neurologically. Though I do indeed enjoy the fruits of his skill, I really do love growing or collecting a herb or plant and seeing what happens to it after giving a week or two in the fermenter. Assuming nothing disastrous has taken place I’ll often distil the fermentation results to see if that has any effect on either contamination or efficacy. NO it is nothing LIKE Breaking Bad. It is a lot more like Breaking Wind if the ferment goes off through contamination by fungus or mould or bacteria. Even when perfect there is something quite redolent,

by Margaret Smith can be great or a bit essentially herby. All this is a bit of fun, but get real Marg, our brands, our personal and skin care products cannot become multicoloured, bloated dip type things, they just can’t, so experiments that might be OK for the home kitchen should never reach retail shelves. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that vegetable matter is crawling with all types of greeblies, most of which are quite harmless most of the time. Indeed protecting ourselves from some may MARG SMITH is the owner of Syndet Works – an Australian company established in 1984 to formulate and produce soap free skincare bars. Syndet has developed an enviable reputation for custom formulated and manufactured skincare that now extend well beyond the origins of the business.

have the exact opposite effect, as there is now an emerging body of evidence that suggests our immune systems are strengthened by exposure to these bugs and that it is beneficial if we ingest them or apply them whilst fresh. However when we capture them, put them amongst a nice nutrient base like a cream, then package them off, without completely knocking them off, then the “fermentation” is quite different and will become either unpleasant or toxic or both. As formulators and manufacturers get more and more into the natural and often “organic” products that are demanded of us, the need for raw materials to be subject to more careful scrutiny has grown. Traditionally and legally, most raw materials for cosmetic purposes must be clean and have bacterial, mould and fungal growth right down low. Pretty much all the raw materials accepted by us have a certificate of analysis, stating amongst other things the bacterial, fungal and mould loading. There are limits and they must not be exceeded. Each material is different and if imported (unfortunately most are now) must have AQIS clearance to get into the country. If a material has not been cleared it is either irradiated or destroyed. This is where it is sticky for our certified organics, as they are not to be irradiated or preserved with many preservatives except those which are classed by the certifier as natural. Unfortunately bug counts from raw organic materials can cause quite a few headaches for manufacturer and brand owner alike, when the finished product is being certified as organic. For 2 reasons mainly (amongst many) 1 Contamination that cannot be controlled by normal methods if those methods aren’t approved by the certifying body 2 Shelf life. The link between these 2 points is preservation methods and materials. For manufacturers and people trying to do the “right thing” by customers regarding safety, it can be a really hard

gig. Quite frankly the whole question of preservative systems and what is, and isn’t allowed, is an issue that has taken up a lot of our time and those of people who care. The push is to have preservation free or natural preservation. All good intentions, but in my ever so humble opinion, just not quite there yet in the world of mass market cosmetics, where shelf life of up to 3 years is often claimed. The challenge for a safe extended shelf life becomes greater for natural and organic cosmetics due to (usually) higher commencing bug counts even when freshly made. Microbial/fungal/ mould (B/F/M) contamination in a natural (thus) vegetable based product that has not been rigidly preserved or decontaminated prior to using in a cosmetic is normal but a time bomb. As an example take a simple case of using an Aloe Vera extract. Almost all formulators use a 1:200 powder concentrate, reconstituted in water for use as the “water phase” in natural and particularly organic creams lotions washes. It means that pretty much in one simple operation, the product achieves the percentage of organic material required by the certifier. In most cases now this is from 75-95% of the total. The certificate of analysis shows that in its powdered form it passes the loading of b/f/m totals allowed, but remember that in powdered form it is inactive. The conventional way of treating the Aloe Vera powder is to wet it out, preserve the wetted out powder with a good broad spectrum preservative, then add it as one does to our formulation. But if this product is to be certified as organic that really will not be feasible if the broad spectrum preservative is not approved by the certifying body. To conform to certified organics we must reconstitute the Aloe Vera powder prior to manufacture. It is at this stage that we must be able to decontaminate/ protect it. The processes we have available to achieve this include the use of heat, which is great but does not kill everything. Alternatively we can lower the pH so it is about 3.5 (like wine) and that helps too, but can be a bit too jolly

low for other parts of the product to work. After all this we can use potassium sorbate, well not for this little black duck and many thousands of us as we are horribly sensitive both topically and internally to the stuff. And anyway it is only any good to knock the m part of our b/f/m, so it is useless. And I keep having this conversation about what we can and need to do to make a product safe and compatible with skin. I have seen cosmetics that adhere to the recommended practices and dosage of natural preservative manufacturers, and yes they do work within a limited range of conditions and types of packaging. Also one must be very aware of the microbug load of all ones natural and organic raw materials before one even thinks of formulating. I have seen both recommendations and tests done on various systems and materials of 1.5-4% with differing results. This all leads on to the issue of shelf life. Let’s start with the shelf life or expiration date of our starting materials. Well they are all over the shop. I have here in front of me the expiry dates (from manufacturing date) of over 500 raw materials we purchase. I have a sampling here and please understand that this is not a standard, it is just what various companies declare (and thus do not take responsibility for after this date). perfumes

12 months

Surfactant (decyl glucoside)

24 months

Surfactant (cocoamidopropyl betaine)

12 months

Preservative

12-24 months

Natural vegetable active

48 months

Vitamin

Anything between 12 months to 60 months

Essential oil

36 months

Vegetable oils

12 months

Emulsifying wax (synthetic)

Anything between 12 months to 60 months

Emulsifying wax (natural)

12 months

Can anyone see something going on here? I know most materials are decontaminated and then preserved but some of the manufacturers are giving us as users not much time at all to have these materials shipped and made the science of beauty

up. They are I guess relying on the manufacturer of the finished product to preserve the entirety and thus extend (hopefully) the shelf life of the individual raw materials within. However I wonder if this has been tested either by a lab or the law, as to the responsibility of the safety and the efficacy of the parts and the sum. I am particularly miffed when we get perfume at 12 months and preservatives at 24 months and emulsifiers at 1 year!! Does that mean that they fail after this time? In our experience most materials are pretty stable, but in this world of documents, proof, evidence and litigation, I do admit to being a bit scared. So every time we make something, our customer will ask “what is the shelf life” and the “ PAO” (Period After Opening)? Well here is our recommendation: The dates below are loose guidelines for PAO for conventional well preserved products, but note that the more a product is exposed to air and potential

the science of beauty

bacteria, the shorter its lifespan. Powders last longer than liquids, and liquids in pumps stay fresher longer than liquids in jars. Always handle the product after cleaning your hands, and anything that directly touches your skin should be cleaned or replaced regularly, such as brushes, cosmetic sponges, eyeliner tips, mascara wands and lip liner. Everyone really tries to makes products that go with the 3 year shelf life but really naturals and organics can really only be safe for 2 years. And in saying that I would put a strict proviso on the types of vegetal raw materials used as so many organic vegetable oils can go rancid in a much lesser time. Anti-ageing and acne treatments: Three months to a year. Serums with antioxidants can turn quickly; be on the lookout for any changes in colour. Eye cream: Unopened three years and six months after first use. Body lotion: One year if opened and two years if unopened. The pump containers

tend to stay fresh longest. But they will dry up and will need to be cleaned out if left for a few weeks Shampoo, conditioner and shower gel: About two years. Bath oil: One year to use up that gorgeous bottle with the lavender stems; don’t delay. Remember my point about rancidity and leave in a cool dark place to extend its life. Hairstyling products: Three to five years. Most are alcohol-based, which helps preserve the formula. Hair gel and spray typically last two to three years. Bar soap: Up to three years. Mascara and liquid eyeliner: Three to four months once you start using it. Two years if unopened. Gosh do any of us do that!!!! Eye and lip pencils: Three to five years. Sharpen them before each use as a way to preserve them and keep them clean, or dab them on a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol. Lipstick and gloss: Two to three years

unopened or 18 months after first use. Foundation and concealer: About two years for oil-based and up to three years for water-based if unopened. Most of these products are designed to last up to a year, so if you don’t use it up, chances are you didn’t love it anyway. You should aim to use them up within about six months after first use. Please note comments re SPF below as that will change the lifespan. Anything with SPF: Should have an expiration date. All others, up to three years. Sunscreen: Check the package for an expiration date, but if you still have last year’s opened bottle of sunscreen, you should abandon it. Aim to use it up within six months of first use; if you don’t, you’re probably not using it enough. Blush/bronzer: About 18 months after first use. Perfume: About two years. To get more mileage out of a perfume, resist the temptation to display a pretty bottle on your vanity. Instead, stash it away in a cool, dark place (in the fridge). Or if you get a new scent that you won’t use for a while definitely keep away from light and store it in your refrigerator. Nail polish: One year. Nail-polish remover: Good indefinitely. Shaving cream: About two years. Deodorant: Up to two years, but antiperspirants should have an expiration date. And I must say we get gulps and gasps of disbelief...Retailers won’t allow that! They must have minimum of 3 years on the shelf, (and with no special conditions like temperature lower than 25-30C, or blazing sunlight or feature lighting on it). And then PAO needs to be at least 12 months same reason. In the end what I want to say is that my mum was as scientific then as many of us now, buying and making stuff and wanting it to be OK well beyond reason. Just see why manufacturers start to arc up with both materials suppliers and with customers and retailers pushing the window of reason so narrowly that very few products can get through.

We all got so used to our stuff being really well preserved and quite frankly bullet proof, that we have forgotten that the insistence of a natural and almost conventional preservative free product has dashed that little dream to blazes. “In this all I ask is the customers, brandowners, retailers and natural product certifiers get real about the use of preservatives and have some thought for the real safety of the consumer.”

Do your cosmetics and sunscreens require testing? ALS Pharmaceutical is the right partner with the right solution. Our global laboratory group offers specialised analytical services in chemical, physical and microbiological analysis of raw materials, finished products and stability trials within the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. With experienced chemists and microbiologists we can offer you the highest level of technical advice coupled with customer support through our customer service team.

Start testing today. To discuss your analytical needs please contact our sales team. VIC. TAS. WA. 03 8756 8111 NSW. QLD. NT. 02 8832 7500 FP.Sales.AU@alsglobal.com www.alsglobal.com/pharmaceutical

Chemistry › Sunscreen Actives › Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide › Preservatives › Alcohols › Fatty acids › Essential Oils › Vitamins › Heavy Metals › Urea Raw Materials and Physical Testing › Identification › Viscosity › Density (Specific Gravity) › Hydroxyl, Peroxide, Anisidine and Saponification Values › Appearance, pH and acidity/alkalinity › Water Testing Microbiology › TAMC › Yeast and Mould › Staphylococcus aureus › Pseudomonads › Preservative Efficacy Testing

the science of beauty

technical

Elix-IR™: a new strategy for a global action against photoaging Estelle Loing 1*, Magali Borel 2 *Corresponding author 1. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité, 2600 boulevard Laurier, bureau 900, Québec (Québec), G1V 4W2, Canada 2. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, ZA les Belles Fontaines, 99 route de Versailles - 91160 Champlan, France

Keywords Photoaging, Infra’Aging™, Cathepsin G, MMP-1, Tropoelastin, Wrinkles reduction

Abstract Infrared radiation has the potential to precipitate skin ageing and photoageing, a phenomenon that we propose calling “Infra’Aging™”. New efficient cosmetic actives are needed to counteract the newly characterized IR effects. The present paper introduces Elix-IR™, a cathepsin G inhibitor derived from the wild plant Polygonum aviculare that prevents IR and UV effects on skin.

Inroduction to Infra’aging™ The impact of surface ultraviolet radiation (UV) on human health is an ongoing concern for the Australian community. It is known that reductions in stratospheric ozone result in surface UV increases, and increased exposure to UV increases the risk of skin cancer and of course lead to premature skin aging.

Infrared radiation The term photoaging first emerged in the field of dermatology in the 80s, in link with the work of Dr. Kligman (1). It refers to premature skin ageing resulting from chronic exposure to the 44

the science of beauty

sun. Putting a name on things is a way of bringing them into focus and an important step towards understanding any phenomena. In line with this view, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics recently coined the term Infra’Aging™ to describe the aspect of photoageing more specifically related to infrared radiation (IR). IR is the part of the electromagnetic solar spectrum that falls beyond the visible range but below microwaves. IR consists of long wavelengths of low energy, comprising IRA (760–1400 nm), IRB (1400–3000 nm), and IRC (3000 nm–1 mm). IRB and IRC interact only superficially with the skin, where they generate heat, but IRA goes surprisingly deep, down to the hypodermis. Nearly half of the solar rays that reach our skin are in the IR range, of which 30% is IRA (2). Human skin is also exposed to various artificial sources of IR including certain medical devices such as lasers and electrical appliances such as heaters (3) among others. IR has both beneficial and negative effects on skin (3, 4). On the positive side, IR has found applications in the treatment of skin problems including acne, wound healing, scar formation, burns, and psoriasis (5-9). Benefits are associated with the use of limited low

doses of IRA or heat-inducing IRB/ IRC. In contrast, chronic exposure or higher doses appear rather detrimental. For instance, workers in repeated contact with an IR heat source are at risk of developing a condition called erythema ab igne, which is characterized by the apparition of hyperpigmented reticulated patches on the exposed skin (10). Moreover, high intensity IRA exposure has been linked to inhibition of wound healing (11). But the most widespread and striking negative effect of IR exposure certainly is its potential to increase the burden of premature skin ageing. A link between IR exposure and photoageing was first proposed more than 20 years ago, by Dr. Kligman (12). She demonstrated that IR could aggravate UV-induced skin damage and that IR alone could cause the breakdown of elastic tissues (elastosis). However, it did not really catch public attention until quite recently, when mechanisms responsible for such effects started being elucidated. New research has evidenced that IR may affect the skin in two ways, either directly by interfering with cellular mitochondrial functions and generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) at the dermis level, or

indirectly through the generation of heat and mobilisation of heat sensors at the surface of skin (13-15). Both pathways culminate in the activation of matrix-metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), making the protease a key element of infra’aging™ (16, 17).

MMP-1 activation MMP-1 belongs to a large family of zinc-dependent proteolytic enzymes produced by various types of cells and activated extracellularly. Globally MMPs are involved in the remodelling of the extracellular matrix (ECM) through the degradation of matrix components such as collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and glycoproteins. In healthy tissues, their activity is balanced by natural inhibitors (TIMPs). This balance is lost in photoageing, in favour of excessive degradation of matrix fibres (18). MMP-1 is more specifically involved in the fragmentation of type-1 collagen which is the predominant fibre in the dermis. MMP-1-mediated collagen fragmentation has major consequences for fibroblasts. Cells cannot attach to broken fibres. Without proper anchorage, they then lose the mechanical tension essential for their proper functioning, including collagen production, and tend to collapse (19).

Cathepsin G activation Recently, another protease has attracted attention, as an important contributor to premature skin ageing. Cathepsin G is a serine protease secreted by neutrophils and fibroblasts in the dermis. Its expression increases in vivo in photoaged skin and in vitro when fibroblasts are irradiated with UVA (20). Prevention of UVB-induced ECM degradation in animal treated with a topically applied cathepsin G inhibitor further suggests its implication over the full UV spectrum (21). The enzyme is known to break down fibronectin in vitro. The latter is a glycoprotein involved in cell adhesion. Fibronectin fragments have the ability to increase MMP-1 expression and activity without affecting TIMPs, resulting in the loss

Figure 1. Polygonum aviculare extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor.

of collagen fibres (22). Cathepsin G also degrades elastin into fragments that stimulate elastase activity, initiating a cascade of elastolytic events (23). Cathepsin G thus appears as an important target to prevent not only collagen degradation by MMP-1, but also the accumulation of amorphous broken elastin material typically seen in photoageing. New research by the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics group now suggests that Cathepsin G may also contribute to Infra’Ageing™ resulting from IR exposure.

Polygonum aviculare extract Cathepsin G inhibition The company recently characterized a new cosmetic active (Elix-IR™) derived from the wild plant Polygonum aviculare (knotgrass). The plant is surprisingly versatile and resistant, being able to grow on almost any soil and any climate. It has a long history of use in traditional medicine for the treatment of various conditions including infections, inf lammation, and wounds. Polygonum aviculare extract is rich in f lavonoids having antioxidant activity (24) and was also found to dose-dependently and very efficiently inhibit cathepsin G (Figure 1). Ex-vivo immunolabelling studies evidenced prevention by the extract of UV-induced MMP-1 expression and fibrilllin-1 reduced expression at the epidermis and upper dermis level respectively (results not shown). Fibrillin-1 is a major component of

the microfibrils that support elastin fibres. Disappearance of the microfibrils network contributes to elastosis, as seen in photoageing. These results are in accordance with the current literature showing that cathepsin G inhibition protects from UV deleterious effects on the ECM of skin (20-23).

Inhibition of IR-induced MMP-1 activation Most interestingly, the extract could also protect from IR-induced effects. In this experiment, ex vivo skin specimens were treated daily with the extract (2% in a gel) for 8 days. On day 5, skin explants were irradiated for 60 minutes with IR (720 J/cm2) under a dr. Fisher lamp. On day 6, MMP-1 expression was detected using immunof luorescence techniques. In these conditions, Polygonum aviculare extract treatment was able to prevent IRA-induced upregulation of MMP-1 expression within the papillary (upper) dermis (Figure 2). MMP-1 being central to both ROS- and heat- mediated IR effects on collagen and elastin fibres, such result may confer protection from Infra’Ageing™.

Protection of tropoelastin under IR exposure A protective effect of the extract on components of elastic fibres was also established. In this experiment, ex vivo skin specimens were treated daily with the extract (2% in a gel) for 8 days. On day 5, skin explants were irradiated for 60 minutes with IR (720 J/cm2) the science of beauty

Figure 2. Polygonum aviculare extract prevents IR-induced MMP-1 expression.

Figure 3. Polygonum aviculare extract protects tropoelastin under IR exposure..

under a dr. Fisher lamp. On day 9, tropoelastin expression was detected using immunof luorescence techniques. In these conditions, Polygonum aviculare extract treatment significantly protected the tropoelastin network in the upper and reticular dermis, from IRA-induced effects (Figure 3). Tropoelastin is the soluble precursor of elastin. Following its secretion in the extracellular milieu, the protein is rapidly modified, forming crosslinked aggregates that are assembled on microfibril scaffolds to make up elastin fibres (25). Elastin is responsible for skin resilience and elasticity.

study, reviewed and approved by an Ethics committee. A cream containing the extract (2%) and a placebo cream (same formulation less the active) were blindly applied on a different half of the face, twice daily for 28 days, in the absence of sunscreen. Facial skin topography was evaluated using the Visio3D DermaTOP BLUE system. At

the end of the study, skin roughness was reduced by -11.2%, wrinkle volume by -11.5%, mean wrinkle depth by -11.2%, and maximum wrinkle depth by -11.5%. All results were statistically significant (p<0.0001) over baseline. On the opposite, placebo treatment resulted in only slight non significant ameliorations (Figure 4). Conclusions

Clinical anti-wrinkle and skin smoothing efficacy The experimental results obtained with Polygonum aviculare extract found positive echoes in a clinical setting. A panel of 20 healthy women volunteers aged 35 to 65 with skin type II/III tested the product in real life conditions of natural daily summer sun exposure (including UV, visible light, and IR radiation) in southern Europe. This was a split-face, randomized, double-blind 46

the science of beauty

Figure 4. In vivo anti-wrinkle efficacy of Polygonum aviculare extract, under UV and IR exposure.

Chronic IR exposure is emerging as a distinct threat to skin integrity that may add to the burden of chronological ageing and UV-induced photoageing. The term â&#x20AC;&#x153;Infraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Agingâ&#x201E;˘â&#x20AC;? has been proposed to describe this new reality. Few cosmetic actives have been characterized so far as topical IR protectors. Elix-IRâ&#x201E;˘, a cathepsin G inhibitor derived from the wild plant Polygonum aviculare, has proven in vitro to address pathways involved in IR negative effects on skin. In vivo, Elix-IRâ&#x201E;˘ was able to reduce the signs of photoaging in human skin exposed to the whole natural spectrum of sunlight radiation, including IR, UV, and visible light. To our knowledge, this is the first time that a cathepsin G inhibitor is linked to in vitro protection from IR effects and in vivo anti-wrinkle benefits in humans. These results suggest new potential applications for cathepsin G inhibitors, as modulators of IR-induced skin damage and photoaging in general.

i3/30.htm (2012). 4. J. Krutmann, A. Morita, J.H. Chung, J Invest Dermatol., 132, pp. 976-984 (2012). 5. J.H. Yoon, E.J. Park et al., J Dermatolog Treat., (2013) Jan 22. doi:10.3109/09546634.2 013.768758. 6. M.S. Weingarten, J.A. Samuels et al., Wound Repair Regen., 20, pp.911-7 (2012).

22. E.D. Son, H. Kim et al., J Dermatol Sci., 53, pp.150-2 (2009). 23. E. Cavarra, M. Fimiani et al., Biol Chem., 383, pp.199-206 (2002). 24. C.-Y. Hsu, Biol Res., 39, pp. 281-288 (2006). 25. J.E. Wagenseil, R.P. Mecham., Birth Defects Res C Embryo Today, 81, pp.229-40 (2007).

7. D. Barolet, A. Boucher, Lasers Surg Med., 42, pp.597-601 (2010). 8. Ezzati, M. Bayat et al., J Rehabil Res Dev., 46, pp.543-54 (2009). 9. G. Ablon, Photomed Laser Surg., 28, pp.141-6 (2010). 10. K. Miller, R. Hunt et al., Dermatol Online J., 17, pp.28 (2011). 11. M.D. Skopin, S.C. Molitor, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed., 25, pp.75-80 (2009). 12. L.H. Kligman, Arch Dermatol Res., 272, pp.229â&#x20AC;&#x201C;38 (1982). 13. J. Krutmann, P. Schroeder, J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc., 14, pp.44-9 (2009). 14. M.H. Shin, J.E. Seo et al., Mech Ageing Dev., 133, pp.92-8 (2012). 15. M.E. Darvin, S. Haag, et al., J Invest Dermatol., 130, pp. 629-631 (2010). 16. Y.M. Lee, Y.K. Kim, J Cell Physiol., 219, pp.766-75 (2009). 17. P. Schroeder, J. Lademann et al., J Invest Dermatol., 128, pp.2491-7 (2008).

References and Notes

18. P. Brenneisen, H. Sies et al., Ann NY Acad Sci., 973, pp.31-43 (2002).

1. L.H. Kligman, Dermatol Clin., 4, pp.517-28 (1986).

19. T. Quan, F. Wang et al., J Invest Dermatol., 133, pp.658-67 (2013).

2. E. Dupont, J. Gomez et al., Int J Cosmet Sci., 35, pp. 224-32 (2013).

20. Y. Zheng, W. Lai et al., Skin Pharmacol Physiol., 24, pp.10-21 (2011).

3. Y. Tanaka, World J Dermatol., 1, pp. 30-37 http://www.wjgnet.com/2218-6190/full/v1/

21. E.D. Son, J.H. Shim et al., Dermatology, 224, pp.352-60 (2012).

6SULQJ 6XPPHU (VVHQWLDOV &ĹŻĹ˝Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć? <ĎŽĎŹÍ˛tÎ ĹŻĹ?Ç&#x2020;Í˛/ZÎ

Retains the colour of your tan

Fights Infra Red Aging

^ĆľĆ&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ç&#x2020; Í˛ Î Protects your skin from free radicals

Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹŻĆľĹŻĹ˝Ć?Ä?Ć&#x152;ĆľÄ?â&#x201E;˘ Exfoliating beads for that sun kissed glow

DĹ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ä&#x201A; ĆľĆ&#x161;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Î Perfect for dry, cracked lips

DÄ&#x17E;ĹŻĹ?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Î Accelerates your natural tan

dÄ&#x201A;Ç&#x152;ĹľÄ&#x201A;Ĺś WÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Î To soothe sun burnt skin

ZZZ DYHQLULQJUHGLHQWV FRP DX DQQD#DYHQLULQJUHGLHQWV FRP DX

VKDURQ#DYHQLULQJUHGLHQWV FRP DX

the science of beauty

formulatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

forum Part 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Hair The average human scalp has about 100,000 hairs, varying in thickness from 0.0025cm to 0.01cm in diameter. Each hair grows from a long narrow pocket called a follicle which stretches from the surface of the epidermis down to the dermis for about 0.28cm and is lined with living cells. The dermis grows up into the bottom of the follicle to form the papilla which contains capillary blood vessels. The capillaries transport oxygen and food to a group of cells above (the matrix). As these cells grow and multiply they are pushed up and

by Ric Williams B.Sc.; Dip.Env.St. Cosmepeutics International

This column is intended not only as an education tool for non-technical people or beginners in our industry, but as a forum for those wishing to enlighten all about recent technology advances and new ideas. I hope experienced scientists will also contribute to this ideal and if you wish to do so please email me at: ric@cosmepeutics.net.au 48

the science of beauty

squeezed by pressure from the follicle walls into long, spindle shapes we know as hair. Cells produced from the top of the papilla form the central core, or Medulla, of a hair. Because the cells are loosely packed, with air pockets between them, the medulla is soft and spongy. Spindle shaped cells from the sides of the papilla form the next layer, the Cortex, while the outside layer, the Cuticle, is made up of cells from still lower down. These last cells are smooth and thought to be f lattened into scales by pressure from the

follicle walls. Because the follicle grows down into the dermis at an angle, the hair when it emerges slopes naturally to one side. A muscle attached to the follicle contracts when stimulated, for example by cold or fear, and makes the hair stand on end. Hair grows not only on the scalp, but on every part of the body, except the palms of the hands, soles of the feet and genitals. The average growth rate of scalp hair is about 1.25cm per month, fastest between the ages of fifteen and thirty and slightly faster in women than in men. Contrary to popular belief, the rate is not affected by cutting. The period of growth of a single hair varies from eighteen months to six years. When it ceases the follicle begins to shrink up towards the surface, taking with it the hair, which will eventually be brushed out or fall out. The follicle grows again, gains fresh supplies of food and oxygen from the capillaries, and a new hair begins to form. When this cycle fails to

renew itself, usually due to hormonal changes, the result is baldness. The time of a complete cycle (again controlled by hormonal changes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; specific to the location on the body) governs the length of the hair grown and is quite critical. Who, for instance, would want eye lashes a foot long? It has been shown that there are no significant differences in chemical composition of hair from different racial origins. The main difference between the hair of different racial groups is in their fibre geometry. Mongoloid hair is the thickest, Caucasian hair is the thinnest, Negroid hair is intermediate. For each individual the hair fibres on the head vary in diameter and cross-sectional shape. The crosssectional shape of human hair also varies with race although almost all hair from the human race is elliptical to some extent, Mongoloid hair is the closest to circular, Negroid hair is the most elliptical with Caucasian hair intermediate. Human hair is twisted

along its length (rotation of the major axis of the elliptical cross-section along the length of each fibre). The degree of twist is directly proportional to the degree of curliness (Negroid hair is the curliest, Mongoloid hair is the straightest with Caucasian hair intermediate). In general, straight hair grows from round follicles, wavy hair grows from oval shaped follicles and curly hair grows from f lat hair follicles. Another important feature is hair diameter, with the average area of the cross section of Mongoloid hair being 0.0050 sq.mm. which is substantially larger than the average Caucasoid hair cross sectional area (30% less) of 0.0036 sq.mm. and Negroid hair cross sectional area (40% less) of 0.0030 sq.mm. The larger the diameter of the human hair fiber the longer a reagent chemical will take to penetrate to the hair core or the harder to condition. Therefore Asian hair is the hardest to condition. It was proven that for most large molecules, such as hair dyes, diffusion rates are slower in

the science of beauty

hair with a larger cross section. The major proportion of cells in the hair cortex is the macrofibril (0.050.20 um). The macromatrix is probably similar in constitution to the endocuticle in that it is composed of cell remnants. Some cortical cells have close packed microfibrils and very little macromatrix, ie, paracortical cells. Other cortical cells have less microfibrils and more continuous matrix, ie. Orthocortical cells. The orthocortex is more accessible to staining and more susceptible to chemical attack than paracortex. Mongoloid head hair (ie. Straight hair) contains all paracortical cells. Caucasian head hair (ie. Curly hair) contains a central core of paracortical cells surrounded by orthocortical cells. Negro head hair (ie. Wooly hair) is bilaterally segmented with orthocortical cells always on the outside of the crimp curl. Orthocortical cells are less resilient than paracortical cells and therefore negro hair is more fragile and prone to fracture on this exposed surface (particularly with combing and brushing). Since orthocortical cells are easier to diffuse into, Negro hair is the easier to perm (damage?) and Mongoloid hair the hardest. A microscopic examination of the Negroid hair shows the cortex pigment granules are dark, coarse and have a tendency to be clumped together. In mongoloid hair pigment granules may be dark or darker, but are more evenly distributed. Caucasoid hair usually exhibits finer, more even pigmentation with light colored granules. Each hair strand is further made up of long chains of Keratin protein fibres.

Note; it is the cuticle or sheath that 50

the science of beauty

protects the keratin fibres from damage. It is these that largely affect shine (if the cuticle plates are lying f lat then there is good ref lection and hence higher shine; combability (if the cuticle plates are not f lat then there is resistance to combing as the plates resist the transition of the comb through the hair); smoothness (if the cuticle plates are not f lat then there is resistance to hair strands sliding against each other – hair that stands away from the scalp and difficult to style results) and potential for damage (if the cuticle plates are not f lat then there is greater chance that the Keratin fibres under the cuticle will become damaged). As you can see from the above diagram there are eleven (11) protofibrils twisted together (nine around two) and each of these protofibrils are further composed of three (3) spiral keratin molecules twisted together. It is the bonding between these keratin molecules which ultimately give hair its shape and longitudinal strength. Longitudinal strength is largely dependent on the Hydrogen bonding between molecules in the spiral. There are also weak salt linkages between spirals.

The style of hair is dependant on the number (and location) of Cysteine Amino Acids within the Keratin fibres, and when a Cysteine bond is formed this holds the Keratin fibres in a fairly rigid position giving hair its shape. Straight

Curly

It can be confidently said that curly hair has more Cysteine bonds than straight hair and this trend is also true for Negroid hair vs Caucasian hair and to a lesser extent Asian hair.

Anagen Phase – Growth Phase Approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. The Anagen phase or growth phase can vary from two to six years. Hair grows approximately 10cm per year and any individual hair is unlikely to grow more than one meter long.

Catagen Phase – transitional phase

However, Keratin makes up the majority of the structure of hair fibres and are long highly cross-linked (with Cystine / Cysteine Disulfide Bridge bonds – see above) giving the hair strand its strength (due to the amount of cross-linking) and shape (due to the positioning of the cross-linking). Cysteine amino acids have the chemical formula:

At the end of the Anagen phase the hairs enters into a Catagen phase which lasts about one or two weeks, during the Catagen phase the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of the normal length. The lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks away to rest below.

Telogen Phase – resting phase The resting phase follows the catagen phase and normally lasts about 5-6 weeks. During this time the hair does not grow but stays attached to the follicle while the dermal papilla stays in a resting

phase below. Approximately 10-15 percent of all hairs are in this phase at an one time. At the end of the Telogen phase the hair follicle re-enters the Anagen phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already been shed the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again. Thank you. The next issue I will discuss “Hair Care Ingredients”.

The Hair Growth Cycle Hair follicles grow in repeated cycles. One cycle can be broken down into three phases. 1 Anagen – Growth Phase 2 Catagen – Transitional phase 3 Telogen – Resting Phase Each hair passes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs.

Value through expertise NSW, Bella Vista VIC, Mulgrave

P: +61 2 8814 4999 P: 1300 658 663

E: capitol@imcd.com.au E: imcdcs@imcd.com.au

the science of beauty

Skin cancer detection is as easy as

abcde With summer just around the corner, it is an ideal time to be reminded of an invisible danger that awaits our skin every time we venture outdoors. You can’t see it nor feel, it but ultraviolet radiation emitted from the sun penetrates through the skin causing damage to surface skin cells and important structures such as collagen and elastin The end result of excessive and unprotected sun exposure is rough leathery skin, brownish discolouration, freckles, wrinkles and skin cancer. Understanding the damage that can be caused to skin by excessive sun exposure, ensuring maximal sun protection is afforded to the skin during spring and summer, and being mindful of early detection of malignant lesions are the keys for maintaining optimum skin health. The sun is an essential requirement to life, providing us with energy (oxygen via photosynthesis), warmth, light and the ability through our skin to synthesis vitamin D, which is essential to developing and maintaining strong, healthy bones. The ability to synthesise vitamin D, whilst essential, only requires a few minutes a day of sun exposure at appropriate times to achieve optimal levels. On a counter note, however, we

W 52

the science of beauty

must also be reminded that the sun can also pose a danger to our well being, contributing to the development of skin cancer. In Australia, skin cancer is the most common form of cancer and it is alarming that the number of cases reported is on the increase. The rays of light emitted from the sun are referred to as UVR (ultraviolet radiation) and this has been classed as a ‘known human carcinogen’ (causes cancer) by the World Health Organisation (WHO). UVR (in the form of UVA and UVB) is invisible and we cannot actually see the danger posed, hence we are not conscious of its potential harm.

What sun damage does to skin It is a well established fact that sun exposure from UVA and UVB causes damage to skin and the cellular structures of our skin cells (eg DNA), with over 98% of skin cancers that occur attributable to the effects of these rays. But the damage does not manifest immediately. It is often not until many years later that skin cancers develop. Excessive sun exposure most immediately causes sunburn – a major risk factor for the development of melanoma. In addition, even without

by Tina Aspres sunburn occurring it suppresses the skin’s immune system, reducing the ability of the skin immune system to prevent development of skin cancers. Further to this, 90% of photoaging is a direct result from UVR exposure. UV light causes damage to structural proteins (collagen and elastin), leading to premature aging. It also causes skin to thicken giving it a leathery appearance, causes skin to freckle and/or pigment and generally gives skin a blotchy, mottled, uneven appearance. Australia is unenviably acknowledged as the ‘skin cancer capital of the world’ and despite efforts to boost public awareness of skin cancer and the consequences of melanoma, skin cancer is on the rise and Australians still remain dangerously unaware of the deadly threat posed by melanoma, a potentially fatal form of skin cancer.

Damage does not occur overnight One needs to be aware that sun damage is cumulative, and skin cancers develop slowly over time, and this is why they are usually diagnosed in adults. It is important to understand that most of our sun exposure occurs during the childhood years with approximately 80% of exposure in our lifetime taking place in the first 15 – 20 years of life. Research has shown that skin cancers result as a direct effect of sun exposure during childhood and that most skin cancers start to develop in childhood. In fact, experiencing even one severe, blistering sunburn during childhood can potentially double one’s chance of developing skin cancer later in life, with an increased risk of melanoma. Protecting the skin from damaging UV rays is an important all year round requirement that starts in infancy.

Skin cancer facts On average, one person per minute develops skin cancer in Australia and one person every five hours dies of skin cancer. It is estimated that 2 out of every 3 Australians are destined to develop skin cancer by the age of 70. Skin cancers account for about 80% of all new cancers diagnosed each year in Australia. Each year, Australians are 4 times more likely to develop a common skin cancer than any other form of cancer. Over 750,000 Australians are treated for skin cancer each year – that’s over 2,000 people every day. The most commonly diagnosed cancer among adolescents and young adults is melanoma; it accounts for more than onequarter of all cancers among Australians aged 15–29 years.

Aestheticians and hairdressers are perfectly placed to be able to observe these areas of exposed skin during treatments, ask questions about these lesions and ensure that their clients seek medical attention. If in doubt – check it out. This is an important step for early detection.

Who’s is at risk Though genetics may play a role (family history of melanoma), anyone who is fair-skinned, blue or green-eyed, blond or red-haired, who freckles and sunburns easily is at risk of developing skin cancer (but one needs to also be mindful that the disease can strike members of any race and ethnicity). Other contributing risk factors include anyone who has had excessive sun exposure during childhood or early adulthood, sunburn (even one episode) received during the first 18 years of life, anyone who has a significant number of moles (or large moles) or freckles may be more susceptible, and users of solariums and tanning beds.

Knowing the signs is as easy as abcde! Skin cancer will present itself in many different forms. The most common forms of skin cancer are basal cell carcinoma (BCC), with squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) the second most common and melanoma the

most serious and deadly form. Knowing what to look for in skin abnormalities enables for early detection and is absolutely essential in preventing the proliferation of cancerous cells. In many cases it can be stopped in its tracks. For non melanoma skin cancers (Basal Cell and Squamous Cell Cancers) any persistent scaly patch, non-healing sore, new persistent bump or crusty patch, particularly if it is noticed on a high risk site, should be reviewed by the clients General Practitioner or Dermatologist. For melanomas, it is as simple as ABCDE to determine whether the lesion (spot) may represent a melanoma. Whilst not all melanomas share all of the characteristics of ABCDE, teaching clients the ABCDE method for examining moles is a good way to start.

• A = Asymmetry Normal moles or freckles are completely symmetrical. If a line was drawn through the centre of the spot, it should be symmetrical on either side.

• B = Border Be aware of moles or spots with blurry, poorly defined or irregular edges.

• C = Color: Moles with more than one colour are suspicious and need to be evaluated by a doctor – this includes lightening or

The ABCDE’s of melanoma

Where are skin cancers found? Skin cancers can occur anywhere on the body (even on non sun-exposed areas including the scalp, in between fingers and toes, under arms) but generally are found on the face, lips, ears, arms, chest and front and back of neck as these are the most sun-exposed parts of the body.

Source: NCI Visuals Online. Skin Cancer Foundation. http://visualsonline.cancer.gov/about.cfm

the science of beauty

darkening of the mole. A melanoma may include streaks of tan, black, red, white or blue.

• D = Diameter: If the spot or mole is larger than approximately 6mm in diameter or has increased in size, it needs to be examined by a doctor.

• E = Evolving: Any mole or skin lesion that is changing in size, shape and colour, bleeds, itches or forms crusts must be reviewed by a Doctor. Always refer clients to a Dermatologist or GP for abnormal spots and never administer any active treatments on the area without first knowing the diagnosis.

Sun protection tips Seek shade at peak times (generally between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m in summer and 11am and 3pm in winter when the sun is the most intense). Wear a hat and sun protective clothing that offer UPF protection. Wear sunglasses that are manufactured to Aust/NZ Standard 1067:2003. Always apply a sunscreen with a minimum SPF – 50+ even on a cloudy day ( UVR penetrates cloud cover and you can still burn on a cloudy day). Be extra cautious when near water, snow or sand as UVR is ref lected off the surface. If desired, recommend a fake tan (NB: does not provide any sun protective properties). Be aware of the UV index (measures how much radiation reaches the earth on any day. The scale ranges from 1 to 11+. As a guide, a UV index of 3 or greater means that the intensity of UVR is high enough to cause harm to the skin, so precautions should be taken). Avoid tanning beds/solariums. (Research shows that using solariums before the age of 35 boosts the risk of melanoma by 59%). Anyone that has had any type of exfoliation, microdermabrasion, dermal peel, micro needling treatment, or is using products with vitamin A derivatives, fruit 54

the science of beauty

acid based products and skin lighteners needs to be advised about strict sun protective measures as their skin will be more prone and sensitive to the sun and its effects (greater risk of sunburn).

The role of the skincare professional How can a skin care professional provide optimum healthy sun protection advice for clients? The role first and foremost is to educate clients and provide them the tools for obtaining and maintaining healthy skin. An aestheticians role in assessing and observing client’s skin can contribute to the early detection of skin cancer such as melanoma. This can be the difference between simple treatment and complex disfiguring surgery. Most importantly it may be the difference between survival and death. Ensuring an adequate understanding of the sun and its effects, advocating the importance of sun protection and avoidance by daily sunscreen use, as well as knowing the signs to look for and teaching clients how to use these when self examining is critical in early detection of skin cancer. Skin can, can affect any one, at any age, at any site, at any time. Early detection and survival is as easy as ABCDE.

TINA ASPRES has worked as a Pharmacist for almost 20 years in retail, industry and academia as well as being a Cosmetic Chemist. Currently she works in industry and has vast experience in both the pharmaceutical and healthcare arenas. In addition to this she is a casual academic at UTS, School of Health, (Faculty of Pharmacy in Pharmaceutics). Tina has a great interest in clinical research in dermatology and the treatment of skin disease and conditions and is Clinical Trial Coordinator at South West Sydney Dermatology. She is a keen researcher in transdermal drug delivery systems. Tina is a Member of the Pharmaceutical Society of Australia and a Member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. She regularly consults pharmaceutical companies in the area of acne, eczema and skincare especially in the area of cosmeceuticals and has devised and written numerous support, training and education material for companies aimed at both professionals and consumers. Tina consults for the Eczema Association Australasia and is on their Integrity Assessment Panel and has worked with Choice Magazine on numerous reports. Tina has presented at the Annual Scientific Meeting of the Australasian College of Dermatologists and has published within the pharmacy and medical literature in the area of sun protection, Vitamin D, skin cancer prevention and eczema as well as coauthoring the book ‘All About Kids’ Skin – The Essential Guide’ published by ABC Books

Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists cosmetics, fragrances & toiletries

ASCC Council President: Jenny Brown Vice President: Matthew Martens Secretary: Julia Hudson Treasurer: Henry King Imm. Past President: Julian Jones Registrar: Robert Angi Publicity Officer: Trish Maharaj and Robert McPherson Education Officer: Imam Irhimeh and Margaret Smith Parliamentarian: Julian Jones Journal Liaison: Margaret Smith Administration Co-ordinator: Kate Paulette NSW Chapter Chairperson: Marie Toyne Vice Chairperson: Robert McPherson Secretary: Lynne Mitchell Treasurer: Jenny Brown Publicity Officer: Robert McPherson Committee: John Warby, J Hudson, Pato Arlegul, Andrew Sepansky

Membership The benfits of membership are: • Connection to the international cosmetic science network through the ASCC’s affiliation with the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) and the Asian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCS). • Members’ rates for regular lectures, seminars, workshops, networking functions and internationally attended annual conference. • Complimentary subscription to The Science of Beauty magazine and the SCC E-Newsletters. • Direct access to the latest news on relevant products, services and technologies. • Tapping into a veritable expertise database from formulating to packaging, to product

testing to marketing to fragrances. • Eligibility for various education and travel awards where the prize includes travel to present at the IFSCC conferences or congresses (held on alternate years around the world). • So much more . . . Membership is open to individuals working in/or interested in the cosmetics, toiletries and perfumery industries. Our members branch beyond Formulation Chemists to include Brand Owners, CEOs, Marketers, Sales Professionals, Students, Claim Substantiation Experts, Academics, Production Personel through to Business Advisors. All new members are invited to attend their first lecture diner free-of-charge, so visit www.ascc.com.au to join now.

Southern Chapter Chairperson: Angelo Conti Registrar: Nicholas Urquhart Committee: Julian Jones, Barry Hunt, Margaret Smith, Imam Irhimeh, Helen Pearce, Jerry Wade Queensland Chapter Chairperson: Robert Angi Technical Committee Chairperson: John Warby Vice-Chairman: Henry King Secretary: Nick Urquhart Technical Editor: Pam Jones Committee: Ric Williams, Saul Pyle, Marilyn Jones, John Staton, Diane McCarthy the science of beauty

September 2014

President’s Report by Jenny Brown

Spring is in the air and it finally seems that summer is just around the corner which means that the end of the year and festive activities will be here before we know it! As I look around at the spring f lowers, colour, fragrances and nature reawakening during my morning walks, it reminds me of the theme for our conference in April – “Natural Wonders: Reinspiring Beauty”. I can report that great progress has been made by Huy Nguon and the organising committee for the 2015 ASCS Conference. Nearly all the premium sponsorship packages were sold within minutes of them being released, the Exhibition booths are also sold and exciting opportunities for digital sponsorship packages have been released. On the Technical side we have had acceptance by several key, top calibre plenary speakers and the IFSCC will be supporting a workshop presentation. Council has continued to work on the “Continuing Professional Development (CPD) Program” and agreement has been made and the programme features finalised. I urge you all to take part in this programme. IFSCC has announced a trial of the the Kosmet database. This is a unique database covering the whole range of the cosmetic literature including congress and conference reports. Kosmet is owned by the IFSCC and has 60 000+ searchable

the science of beauty

references all relevant to cosmetic science. Kosmet, however, is not well enough known or fully used by IFSCC members and hence the reason for the trial. Easy access can be gained via the IFSCC website (http://www.ifscc.org/). Should you wish to take advantage of this trial, please contact Kate at ascc@ascc.com. au for instructions and a user password. There is no charge during the trial period, which runs for 6 months from the 1st of September. The Labor Party has held Cosmetics & Animal Testing Policy Consultation Forums across the country during August, to gauge the views of Australians in regards to the “End Cruel Cosmetics Bill” that was tabled earlier this year by the Green’s Senator Lee Rhiannon. Several ASCC members, as well as myself attended the forums in Sydney and Melbourne. The overview given by the Labor Party on this issue, I felt was quite balanced and showed a good understanding of the reasons why the public would want to abolish animal testing along with the views of the industry and the current regulatory requirements of NICNAS which makes it difficult for the industry to accept the bill while our industry is still regulated by NICNAS. Their findings have been published at http://www.alp.org.au/cosmeticstesting. Over the past few months the Chapters

have again hosted some great functions. Queensland had a fantastic turnout for the Lecture Dinner given by Native Extracts who presented an interesting line of Australian Botanical Extracts. Great feedback was given on John Staton’s presentation to NSW Chapter on Sunscreen Update – Formulating Steps to Regulatory Compliance and once again the Southern Chapter Suppliers’ Day had rave reviews at the end of August. Watch out for the next events when NSW Chapter and Queensland Chapter will be hosting Dr Russell Vickers, presenting on Stem Cells and Peptides. The feedback on this lecture dinner when it was held in Victoria and South Australia was exceptional, so don’t miss out! Finally the Council are working on ideas for the future direction of the ASCC. While we believe the society offers a great place to network and learn with a good friendly community, we need to increase our membership and promote our society to the changing face of our industry. We’d love to hear your ideas to workshop at our next Council meeting in mid November. Please let us know what you think by emailing ascc@ascc.com.au. Until the next edition, have fun in the sun! Jenny Brown ASCC President

advertorial

Marine source: countless opportunities for the development of new cosmetic actives by Khadidja Romari1, Ph.D., Rachida Nachat-Kappes2, Ph.D., Jean-Yves Berthon1,2, Ph.D. (1) GREENSEA SA, Promenade du sergent Navarro, 34140 Mèze - France (2) GREENTECH SA, Biopôle Clermont Limagne, 63360 Saint Beauzire, France

Abstract Sustainability is a major concern within the cosmetics and toiletries industry. Consequently, the development of alternatives with natural ingredients equally effective is an important challenge for raw materials manufacturers. Aquatic environments, including oceans, lakes, rivers, hot springs, lagoons, offer an incredible richness of biodiversity and many opportunities to develop new natural bioactive compounds that respond to the requirements of a sustainable cosmetic. In the marine environment, algae are one of the largest groups in terms of diversity, and according to Guiry, they have been estimated from 30,000 to more than 1 million species (Guiry 2012). Classically, the algae also named as “seaweeds”, are divided into three major groups (green, brown and red) largely based on the colours of the pigments they synthetise. In fact, an extensive range of pigments including phycobiliproteins is present in algae. They are highly f luorescent proteins classified into two large groups based on their colours, the phycoerythrin (red), and the phycocyanin (blue). Interestingly, algae developed adaptive responses to environmental stress

(UV, pH, high temperature, bacteria, pressure, turbulence…) and thus, under optimised conditions; they are able to produce more or less pigments or other active molecules. GREENTECH, through its subsidiary GREENSEA specialised in Phycotechnology, take advantage of the adaptive responses in algae for the production of a large and diverse array of biochemical constituents. Thus, we developed several actives from marine origin and with various activities. For example: - First marine active contributes to vascular tonicity enhancement (to correct rosacea). It corresponds to a subtle mix between oligosaccharides and essential oligoelements, obtained by metabolic induction of the microalga Porphyridium cruentum. - Second active is extracted from the red algae Halymenia durvillei. It is an anti-ageing care active that extends the cellular life cycle and delays the cellular senescence. In the present review, an attempt has been made to throw light on the discovery of two marine active ingredients from microalgae and macroalgae developed by GREENSEA/ GREENTECH.

Introduction The marine environment is a rich source of both biological and chemical diversity. This diversity has been the source of unique chemical compounds with the potential for industrial development as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, nutritional supplements, molecular probes, fine chemicals and agrochemicals. The global trend toward using natural ingredients is focused on components that are extracted from botanical world and from marine organisms, which have been widely used over the centuries for their nutritional and therapeutic properties. Ocean’s biodiversity is believed to be higher than that recorded on land, thereby making marine organisms and their metabolites unique (Paul et al., 2011). The discovery of novel marine natural products is expected to increase in the coming years providing thus a wide range of biologically important compounds useful for cosmeceutical benefit of humans among other applications (Ibañez et al., 2012 ; Venkatesan et a l., 2011). During the past few decades, the cosmetic industry witnessed a great demand for natural products from sustainable sources, away from synthetics the science of beauty

as these natural products are safe to use and do not have any side effects. The shift in consumer preference from synthetic cosmetics to natural ones has led to a metamorphosis in the cosmetic industry with natural products being more in demand than their synthetic counterparts. Marine microalgae and macroalgae (commonly known as seeweads), besides their nutritional value are also considered as an alternative medicine since ancient times (Wijesekara et al., 2012) for skinrelated diseases. Several studies have provided insight into biological activities of marine algae in promoting skin and beauty products. Marine algae represent a very large and diverse group of organisms, encompassing at least 30,000 species. Algae are among the most ancient of living organism in the world, dating their origins back at least 3 billion years as recorded for the blue green algae lineage (also known as cyanobacteria which are phototrophic prokaryotes). Algae are classified into red algae, brown algae, green algae and blue green algae. Specific types and species each have their own unique balance of constituents. They are exceptionally rich in omega 3 fatty acids, dietary fiber, essential amino acids, minerals, vitamins, anti-aging and anti-oxydant compounds, UV screen and anti-pigmentation molecules.

Marine phytochemical compounds with cosmetical applications For example, marine red algae Corallina pilulifera contains components that prevent UV- induced oxidative skin damage. Its main mechanism of action is deactivating enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases that are responsible for destruction of skin matrix after excessive UV-radiation (Ramjee Pallela et al., 2010). Potent antioxidative compounds have also been isolated from brown seaweeds; pyropheophytin a from Eisenia bicyclis, fucoxanthin from Hijikia fusiformis and phlorotannin from Ecklonia stolonifera (Cahyana et al, 1992) and (Kang, H.S et al., 2003). In addition to their antioxidant activity, phlorotannins and 58

the science of beauty

carotenoids like fucoxanthin from brown algae are found to exhibit effects on melanogenesis (Heo SJ et al., 2010 ; Shimoda H. et a l., 2010). Melanin is the major pigment responsible for the color of human skin and sometimes may be over stimulated due to chronic sun exposure or other hyperpigmentation desease. Thus, inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main targeted activity. Several studies demonstrated the inhibitory effect of phlorotannins on melanin synthesis and their protective effect against photooxidative stress induced by UVB radiation (Kang HS et al., 2004 and Seon-Heui CHA et al, 2011). From the brown algae Ecklonia cava, three kinds of phlorotannins including phloroglucinol, eckol and dieckol, were isolated and tested against melanogenesis (Shibata T. et al., 2008 ; Heo SJ et al., 2010 ; Li Y et al., 2009). Moreover, studies conducted by Shibata et al, 2002, reported strong inhibitory effect of phlorotannins extracted from brown algae Eisenia bicyclis and Ecklonia kurome against hyaluronidase activity. According to the in vitro studies with the methanol extracts from marine brown algae Eisenia arborea which is rich in phlorotannins, it is suggested that this algae contains components that inhibit itching and can potentially provide relief for atopic dermatitis (Sugiura et al., 2007). Omega 3-fatty acids, especially eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA; 20:5 n-3) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA; 22:6 n-3), are of increasing importance in the field of cosmetics, nutrition and health due to their effectiveness in preventing or treating several diseases including cardiovascular disorders, type 2 diabetes, inf lammatory bowel disorders and skin disorders. EPA and DHA are two major polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), not present in normal skin epidermis. However, they are metabolised by skin epidermal enzymes into antiinf lammatory and anti-proliferative metabolites that are associated with a variety of benefits regarding inf lammatory skin disorders (Ziboh et al., 2000). EPA and DHA and mainly produced by unicellular phytoplankton and marine microalgae.

Marine algae are exceptionally rich in polysaccharides and the chemical structure of polymers varies according to the species. They are reported to produce different polysaccharides, such as alginates, laminarans, and fucoidans and they are usually sulfated polysaccharides. They are recognised to possess a number of biological activities including anticoagulant, antiviral, and immuno-inf lammatory activities that might find relevance in nutraceutical/ functional food, cosmetic/cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications (Lahaye M, Robic A 2007 ; Li B et al., 2008 ; Usov A.I. and Bilan I. 2008). Fucoidans from exclusively found in macroalgae have been reported to exhibit outstanding biological activities that aid human health (Kusaykin et. al., 2008). They have antitumor, anti-viral and anti-inf lammatory activities. They prevent UV-induced skin damage, stimulate collagen formation and also have excellent moisturising and skin soothing properties.

Example of marine actives developed by greensea/ greentech Presently, several studies have provided insight into biological activities of marine algae in promoting skin, health, and beauty products. In the present review, an attempt has been made to throw light on the discovery of two marine active ingredients from microalgae and macroalgae developed by GREENSEA/ GREENTECH.

1- Active from Porphyridium cruentum to improve vascular tonicity A marine active for vascular tonicity enhancement (to correct rosacea). Rosacea is a cutaneous pathology appeared by chronic redness of the nose, cheeks, and sometimes on the chin and forehead. These symptoms may be accompanied by tingling, especially at eye level (Mc Aleer MA et al. 2009 and Neumann E et al. 1998). Its origin is multifactorial and is the result of a combination of biological, genetic and environmental factors. Until now, several hypotheses have been advanced but

each one separately can not explain the pathology. However, it was shown that the redness is the result of an abnormal dilation of small blood vessels located on the surface of the skin. The dilation of these vessels induces a blood f low responsible for the redness and the sensation of heat and tingling. Rosacea affects 45 million people worldwide. It primarily affects populations from Northern Europe and especially the English, Scots, Irish and Scandinavians. As a result, sometimes we referred to rosacea as « Celtic curse ». Although women are most affected, the manifestations of rosacea usually take their most acute form in men. The development of cosmetic active inducing vasoconstriction of dilated vessels at the skin surface would reduce the blood f low in this area and thus reduce all the symptoms of rosacea (redness, warmth and tingling). For these reasons, the GREENSEA company from the GREENTECH group has developed an uncommon marine active by metabolic induction of the microalga Porphyridium cruentum (Rios et al., 2013). Porphyridium cruentum active is a subtle mix between oligosaccharides and essential oligoelements. In vivo study conducted on volunteer 14 during 28 days on the basis of twice daily use of a cosmetic cream containing 3% of the marine active from Porphyridium cruentum on the hemi-face versus a placebo cream on the other hemi-face, has revealed that the active induces a significant average decrease of 19% (p <0.017) of skin redness (measured by Siascope) while the placebo formulation induces only an average decrease of 1% as shown in Fig. 1. Transcriptomic analysis have shown that the marine active, obtained from the metabolic induction of the red microalgae Porphyridium cruentum, activates the expression of genes involved in vascular tonicity, such as endothelin-1 (ET-1), a protein inducing vasoconstriction and thus, enhancing vascular tonicity. Clinical trial shows that the marine active from Porphyridium cruentum induces a significant decrease in the intensity of the aesthetic symptoms of rosacea (redness, warmth, tinglings) caused by an excessive

Fig. 1 Decrease of the rednesses on the volunteer n°14

inf lux of blood to the face due to an abnormal vasodilation of microvessels on the surface of the skin (Rios et al., 2013).

2- Active from red algae Halymenia durvillei to delay cellular senescence. GREENTECH has developed a new marine active from the red algae Halymenia durvillei dedicated to skin regeneration and cohesion. Using novel and high-achieving techniques, GREENTECH demonstrated that marine active from Halymenia durvillei is an anti-aging care active that extends the cellular life cycle and delays the cellular senescence. Extracted from the red algae Halymenia durvillei, this active corresponds to an oligo-sulphogalactan, that provides the preservation preserve of youth capital of the epidermal cells. With this marine active, skin barrier functions and skin regeneration are improved, skin radiance and luminosity are enhanced and the skin looks beautiful and younger. Transcriptomic technique has revealed that the oligosaccharide acts on different and specific genes involving cellular proliferation, differentiation and cohesion (Favre-Mercuret et al. 2010). Various in vitro tests confirm that the sulphated oligogalactan extends the cellular life cycle, enhances the accumulation of keratinocytes into the epidermis, slows its differentiation and thus reduces cutaneous desquamation. In this way, the cells are able to communicate for longer, to express

cohesion genes and therefore to synthesise cohesion proteins. Consequently, cells can easily protect themselves for longer. Because the sulphated oligogalactan acts against exaggerated cell differentiation and desquamation, it can also fight the over-desquamation phenomena of psoriasis and dandruff.

Conclusion High demand for marine ingredients is leading to a number of new raw material sources. Marine algae have been used for skin and hair care for thousands of years. Their inherent moisturising, healing and strengthening properties have been recognised since ancient times as providing many benefits for human health and beauty. The exceptional biodiversity of marine algae make them a unique and natural source of new bioactive molecules.

References Cahyana, A.H.; Shuto, Y.; Kinoshita, Y. (1992). Pyropheophytin A as an antioxidative substance from the marine alga, Arame (Eicenia bicyclis). Biosci. Biotechnol. Agrochem. 56, 1533–1535. Favre-Mercuret M. (2010). An innovative oligosaccharide for use as a cosmetic ingredient has been obtained by biotechnology from Halymenia durvillei through control of cell proliferation and cell differentiation. Algae ingredients 30-32 Guiry, M. D. (2012). “How many species of algae are there?” Phycological Society of America 48: 7. Heo SJ, Ko SC, Kang SM, Cha SH, Lee SH, et al. (2010). Inhibitory effect of diphlorethohydroxycarmalol on melanogenesis the science of beauty

and its protective effect against UV-B radiationinduced cell damage. Food Chem Toxicol 48: 1355-1361. Ibañez, E.; Herrero, M.; Mendiola, J.A.; Castro-Puyana, M. (2012). Extraction and Characterisation of DBioactive Compounds with Health Benefits from Marine Resources: Macro and Micro Algae, Cyanobacteria, and Invertebrates. In Marine Bioact Compounds; Haves, M., Ed.; Springer-Verlag New York Inc.: New York, NY, USA, 55–98. Kang, H.S.; Chung, H.Y.; Jung, H.A.; Son, B.W.; Choi, J.S. (2003). A new phlorotannins from the brown alga Ecklonia stolonifera. Chem. Pharm. Bull. 51, 1012–1014. Kang HS, Chung HY, Kim JY, Son BW, Jung HA, Choi JS. (2004). Inhibitory phlorotannins from the edible brown alga Ecklonia stolonifera on total reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. Arch Pharm Res. 27: 194–198.

13(8):1671-95. Li Y, Qian ZJ, Ryu B, Lee SH, Kim MM, et al. (2009) Chemical components and its antioxidant properties in vitro: an edible marine brown alga, Ecklonia cava. Bioorgan Med Chem 17: 1963-1973. Mc Aleer MA, Lacey N, Powell FC. (2009). The pathophysiology of rosacea. G Ital Dermatol Venereol 144 (6), 663-71

Shibata T., Fujimoto K., Nagayama K., Yamaguchi K., Nakamura T. (2002). Inhibitory activity of brown algal phlorotannins against hyaluronidase. Int. J. Food Sci. Tech. 37:703– 709

Neumann E and Frithz A. (1998). Capillaropathy and capillaroneogenesis in the pathogenesis of rosacea. Int J Dermatol 32 (4), 263-6

Shimoda H, Tanaka J, Shan SJ, Maoka T (2010). Anti-pigmentary activity of fucoxanthin and its inf luence on skin mRNA expression of melanogenic molecules.

Paul, C.; Pohnert, G. (2011). Production and role of volatile halogenated compounds from marine algae. DNat. Prod. Rep. 28, 186–195.

Sugiura, Y.; Matsuda, K.; Yamada, Y.; Nishikawa, M.; Shioya, K.; Katsuzaki, H.; Imai, K.; Amano, H. (2007). Anti-allergic phlorotannins from the edible brown alga, Eisenia arborea. Food Sci. DTechnol. Res. 13, 54–60.

Ramjee Pallela, Yoon Na-Young and Se-Kwon Kim. (2010). Anti-photoaging and Photoprotective Compounds Derived from Marine Organisms. Mar. Drugs. 8, 1189-1202,

Kusaykin M., Bakunina I., Sova V., Ermakova S., Kuznetsova T., Besednova N., Zaporozhets T., Zvyagintseva T. (2008). Structure, biological activity, and enzymatic transformation of fucoidans from the brown seaweeds. Biotechnol. J. 3:904–915

Rios L., Delattre C., Chaisemartin L., Favre-Mercuret M., Berthon J. Y. (2013). A New Generation of Actives Produced by Phycotechnology: An Anti-Rosacea and an AntiAcne. SOFW-Journal : 139 – 1/2

Lahaye M, Robic A (2007). Review Structure and functional properties of ulvan, a polysaccharide from green seaweeds. Biomacromolecules 8 (6):176574.

Seon-Heui CHA, Seok-Chun KO, Daekyung KIM, You-Jin JEON (2011). Screening of marine algae for potential tyrosinase inhibitor: Those inhibitors reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in zebrafish. Journal of Dermatology 2011; 38: 354–363

Li B, Lu F, Wei X, Zhao (2008) R Review Fucoidan: structure and bioactivity. Molecules.

the science of beauty

Shibata T, Ishimaru K, Kawaguchi S, Yoshikawa H, Hama Y (2008). Antioxidant activities of phlorotannins isolated from Japanese Laminariaceae. J Appl Phycol 20: 705-711.

Usov A.I., Bilan I. (2009). Fucoidans-Sulfated polysaccharides of brown algae. Russ. Chem. Rev. 78:785–799 Venkatesan, J.; Kim, S.K. (2011). Osteoporosis treatment: Marine algal compounds. Adv. Food Nutr. Res. 64, 417–427. Wijesekara, I.; Senevirathne, M.; Li, Y.X.; Kim, S.K. (2012). Functional Ingredients from Marine Algae as Potential Antioxidants in the Food Industry. In Handbook of Marine Macroalgae: Biotechnology and Applied Phycology; Kim, S.K., Ed.; John Wiley & Sons Ltd.: Chichester, UK ; 398–402.

technical

High performance antiperspirant actives by Dr. Zijun Li Gulbrandsen Technologies Inc.

Introduction Antiperspirant (AP) actives are classified as Over the Counter (OTC) drugs and under FDA regulations. There are two widely used antiperspirant actives, one contains only aluminum basic salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), activated ACH (AACH), aluminum sesqui chlorohydrate (ASCH) and aluminum dichlorohydrate (ADCH); and the other one consists of basic aluminumzirconium salts with or without glycine. AP actives containing zirconium are not allowed for aerosol and pump spray applications. Certain zirconium compounds can only be used with aluminum compounds. Depending on the form of AP actives, the salts can be formulated into aerosol, roll-on, gel, stick and so forth. The chemistry of antiperspirant actives occurs under highly concentrated aqueous solution conditions. There are many potential arrangements for a given molecular weight of AP salt and the exact nature of most effective AP active is not known. Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) which is

operated by High Performance Liquid Chromatograph (HPLC) is widely used in the AP industry for the analysis of molecular size distribution. 27Al NMR is employed to characterise the structure of aluminum polymers. Separation and characterisation of Al species is well developed. Identification of Zr species is less well developed due to Zr species interact and absorbed on most of the SEC columns; lower Molecular Weight (MW) Zr species and higher MW Al species co-elute under most conditions; and Al has much greater sensitivity with IR detection than Zr. Zirconium, however has greater sensitivity with IonCoupled Plasma (ICP). SEC-HPLC-ICP technology has been developed to study the zirconium chemistry and create the high performance Al-Zr AP actives.

Aluminum actives of high efficacy Typical aluminum actives of enhanced efficacy are characterised by having high SEC- HPLC peak 4. Higher performance aluminum salts are expected to have both high SEC-HPLC peak 4 and peak 5 with low or zero peak 1&2. Table 1 listed Al MW distribution.

Activated ACH (AACH) powder active AACH powder is the most widely used Al active in aerosol application. Conventional method of making the AACH powder involves dilution and heat treatment of the 50%ACH solution to reach the ratio of SECHPLC peak 4 to peak 3 to about 1:1, and immediately spray drying

Table 1 Al MW Distribution MW Range

Peak Designation

Species Type

Example

5,000 – 10,000

Peak 1 & 2

Large Polymer

Al70Cl16 (OH)188 (H2O)144 7+

2,000 – 4,000

Peak 3

Medium Polymer

Al41O32(OH) 48 (H2O) 24 11+

500 – 1500

Peak 4

Small Polymer

Al13O4 (OH) 24 (H2O)12 7+ Al30O8 (OH) 56 (H2O) 26 18+

135 – 270

Peak 5

Monomer Dimmer

Al(H2O) 6 3+ Al2(OH) 2(H2O) 8 4+

Chloride Peak

Hydrated Ion

Ionic Chloride, Cl-

the science of beauty

depending on the formulation requirement. The activated salt provides enhanced efficacy with low irritation and ease of formulation.

the diluted solution to preserve the peak ratio. The AACH powder can be dried to various particle size and density through different technologies

Fig. 1. SEC-HPLC of AASCH

Zirconium chemistry AAZG 4 Zirconium signal

3.5 Good AAZG from normal ZHC solution from ZHC solution heated for 2 Hrs from ZHC solution heated for 10 Hrs

3 2.5 2 1 0.5 0 440

640

840

1040

seconds

Fig. 2 Effect of Heat Treatment of Zr Solutions

Zirconium signal

Zirconium chemistry AAZG

5 Good AAZG 25C Mixing 65C Mixing 90C Mixing

4 3

In recent years, we have developed higher performance AASCH powder actives having both high SEC-HPLC peak 4 and peak 5 with zero peak 1&2 as shown in Fig. 1. The activated AASCH powder has high active content with no calcium or glycine. The Al species in AASCH are further depolymerised in comparison with those in AACH due to the lower atomic ratio of Al/Cl demonstrated by high SEC-HPLC peak 5 and zero peak 1&2. The higher performance AASCH active is expected to have reduced white residue and suitable for the applications of aerosol, stick and soft solid.

Al-Zr Actives of High Performance

Zr and Al do not form complexes together. Theoretically, individual chemistry can be optimised. Zr species are hydrolyzed at much lower pH than Al species, hence much higher molecular

0 240

440

640

Fig. 3 Effect of Mixing Temperature of Al and Zr Solutions

The patented1, 2, 3 technology describes activation and stabilisation of Al species at high concentration in the presence of calcium and glycine under hydrothermal heating. Strontium and betaine have been reported to have similar function of Al activation. High yield Al30 species featuring a single tetrahedral signal at δ = 70 ppm in the 27Al NMR spectrum is generated through Caglycine technology4. Quantitative 27Al NMR analysis shows greater than 90% conversion to Al30. A novel γ-Al13 species has been isolated after residual CaCl 2 and glycine are removed from the reaction mixture. The crystal structure of γ-Al13 contains isomer of the Al13 Keggin uncapped structure with reduced symmetry. Even though high concentration Al solution of high SEC- HPLC peak 4 can be generated by the combination of Ca and glycine, it is very challenging to produce the corresponding powder product due to the high hygroscopic property of calcium chloride.

Activated ASCH (AASCH) powder

1.5

240

Activation of al solution by calcium and glycine technology

the science of beauty

840

1040

There is no compromise on

weight Zr polymers are generated at high pH. Table 2 lists measured MW of some typical Zr solutions and powder by ultracentrifuge studies. Composition

ZrOCl2 solution

2,000

ZHT Cl/Zr = 1.72

4,000

ZHT Cl/Zr = 1.0

22,000

AZG powder

400,000

Al/Zr solution

2 million

purity, integrity, highest certifications & full independent testing

Table 2 Measured MW for Zr Solutions and Powder

Unlike Al species that are activated through either dilution & heat or with Ca-glycine & heat, Zr polymers can be depolymerised through coordination with glycine. Not only the glycine buffers the pH of Al-Zr solution it also coordinates with Zr species to keep the salts from forming Zr hydroxide/oxide and undergoing further polymerisation. Recently, we have developed SEC-HPLC-ICP method to study the Zr chemistry of Al- Zr antiperspirant actives. We found reaction conditions have large effect on Zr chemistry. Fig. 2 & 3 demonstrate the effect of heating of the Zr solutions and the temperature of mixing Al and Zr solutions on the Zr chemistry of the finished product. It has been observed the higher the heating temperature and the longer the heating time of the Zr solutions, and the higher the mixing temperature of the Al and Zr solutions the more the polymerised the Zr species become. Al-Zr AP active of high performance can be manufactured by careful control the reaction conditions for the defined compositions of Al, Zr and glycine outlined by FDA.

Pure Essential oils Vegetable Oils Natural ingredients Botanical Extracts Highest Organic cert. Exclusive distributors - Fratelli Parodi & Parodi Nutra

Conclusion

Experience the widest range, largest stock levels, global buying power, qualified technical support, fast delivery & quality Customer Service

The novel higher performance Al only active of AASCH has been developed having high SEC-HPLC peak 4 and peak 5 and zero peak 1&2. Zr polymerisation is characterised by SEC-HPLC-ICP. Al-Zr AP active of high performance can be prepared by careful control of reaction conditions monitored by SEC-HPLC-ICP, where Al species are activated and Zr species are depolymerised.

+61 2 6624 3944 www.fpioceania.com.au

References 1. Yanfei Shen. “Enhanced Antiperspirant Salts Stabilised with Calcium and Concentrated Aqueous Solution of Such Salt” 6,042,816; Mar. 28, 2000. 2. Zijun Li. “High pH Antiperspirant Compositions of Enhanced Efficacy” 7,087,220; Aug. 8, 2006. 3. Long Pan. “Method of Making Antiperspirant Active Compositions Having SEC Chromatogram Exhibiting High SEC Peak 4 Intensity” 8,562,956; Oct. 22, 2013. 4. S. Smart, J. Vaughn, I. Pappas, L. Pan, etc. Chem. Comm. 2013, 49, 11352-11354.

the science of beauty