THE MOVED AMBASSADOR
ALYSHA GONSALVES
SPOT OF THE MONTH
LAHI LAHI FREE POST ER & STICK E INSID R E SPOTS OF THE MONTH P. 08
PRODUCTS P. 10
SEQUENCES P. 18
HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
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CO
ONTENT Photo: lemosimages.com
08 SPOT OF THE MONTH 10 PRODUCTS 14 Local REPORT 18 SEQUENCES North shore 26 hOW TO SURF CHINA WALLS 28 WELCOME BACK UH
Letter from the Publisher
Aloha
Welcome to our first edition of Hawaiian Surf Magazine, brought to you by Surfonn.com and the Surf On Network. We are dedicated to bringing you a fresh take on surf culture, surfing, and action sports. From the athletes to the spots, from the bright lights to behind the scenes, Hawaiian Surf Magazine is there. Above all, we are committed to safety, fun, the environment, and education. Our Magazine is dedicated to surfing and the Hawaii Community. Unlike most other surf magazines, Hawaiian Surf Magazine promises to move beyond traditional coverage of surfing and focus on the real issues concerning our environment, education, un-met human needs, and disaster recovery. We also want to showcase our youth and their efforts within the community, surfing, and education. We do not claim to be experts or offer up solutions. However, like the ancient mo’olelo of Hawaii’s people, it is important to tell the stories of Hawaii and bring to light the real issues facing our ‘aina. A different kind of surf magazine, we will also feature artistic photographs, art, poetry, and an ecletic collection of the best of Hawaii and its people. Consider us the journal of Hawaii, surfing and the ocean. We encourage the public to be involved in our publication and welcome ideas, articles, letters, pictures, and film. Please submit them to submissions@hawaiiansurfmagazine.com
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SURFONN MAG | 7
SPOT of the month
Lahi Lahi
T
he long drive is worth every second. Waves on the north shore were calling for 18 foot waves from the north-west and it was time to hit the road and see where we would end up. We knew for sure it was west bound where it would a little bit smaller and definitely avoid the circus of the crowds of spectators.
wave after wave feast that lasted for 5 hours. It was one of those days when I had a nonstop shit eating grin, same as Francesco. Finally after hours of surfing alone a few people came out and it was time for us to go. We had had more than our share of waves and were exhausted from the long paddles back out to the break.
We drove up the coast and you could feel the electricity in the air. The excitement kept building up and I was glad to have my seatbelt on for the ride otherwise I would have been jumping all over the spot. I lived on the Westside for many years and surfed many spots as well as being a lifeguard out at Pokai bay. We noticed it might be a bit big for our first winter swell of the season and we were a bit worried about riding some big size. We saw Green lanterns at Maili and it was going off.
Recently we hit the same spot in the summer and there is a break that is super hollow. It looks and breaks a lot like Cloud-Break. It is fast and the drop is steep. It has to be big for it to work but when it does it is amazing. It feathers out to the deep ocean. Again the word to best describe it is SICKKK!!!
We couldn’t even tell if anyone could get out. We drove on through to Makaha and it was pretty much almost closing out and they were only letting out the known locals and surfers. I don’t quite remember what made us decide to drive back up the road but we did. We decided to see about this spot I had heard about was breaking. We walked down through the break in the fence and the most amazing break I had seen in a long time. It was glassy breaking way out side on the second reef at the opening of the bay. It was an A-frame clear waters slight offshore wind and an easily accessible entry from a sandy beach. Ridiculous is all we could say. Nobody was out and so we decided this was it. We grabbed our boards and paddled out. A couple of sets rolled through that closed out and we pushed through it until we got outside. The first wave rolled through and it was perfect I dropped left and Francesco went right. I rode the wave all the way to the beach. It was a nonstop | 8
We went out and caught a bunch of waves until I took a steep fall and landed knees first on the board as I was trying to do my signature air drops, not fun… I ended up landing so hard on the board that I split the skin on my knees open. I had heard often that the spot is extremely sharky. So I told Francesco that we should head in after the next wave. We agreed, I caught another sick wave and went pretty far in and paddled the rest of the way. Francesco had other plans though. Son of a surfboard stayed out there for another hour while I was stranded staring from the beach. Restless as I was I had to find something to do. I went swimming near shore and found a nice size boulder. Did I mention that the bottom is a very smooth sandy place. So I ran rock for a while until Francesco decided he was tired. For those of you who don’t know what running rock is, it is running under water with a boulder until your lungs are about to explode. This helps you expand your lung capacity in case you are ever held underwater for a while. Francesco thought it was pretty funny to have stayed out there while I missed out on all the waves. Next time I am going to rub the blood on his board before I go in… See how you like them apples.
TECHNICAL INFO: Skill Level: Advanced to Surf God (beginners can do it if they can paddle out in big surf, can handle big shorebreak, and a dangerous undertow) Breaks: Left and Rights better on the rights, can catch good waves from second reef to shore on occassion Best Swell to Surf it: Best to surf on a North or North West Doable on a big South, South West, South East if big Hazards and Conditions: Strong Current, Deep water Shark Bites reported in last year Sometimes frequented by a sixteen foot tiger shark Frequented by turtles Crowd: Sometimes local Almost no Crowd because rumor is that it is way too sharky Best time of Year: Almost year round Best in Winter (November through February) when the waves on the north are above 10 feet.
SURFONN MAG | 9
Products HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
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SURFONN
TO CELEBRATE OUR FIRSt EDITION
WE ARE GIVING AWAY SOMETHING INSANE every week
LETTERS
letters@HAWAIIANSURFMAGAZINE.COM
JACK JOHNSON AT FARMERS MARKET: Pictured above was a photo from one of the last Haleiwa Farmer’s Market. Jack Johnson made a special appearance in support of the market. Good times were had by all and we look forward for when the next one happens. Find out more: http://haleiwafarmersmarket.com Please support our efforts and sign the petition at: http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/ save-haleiwa-farmers-market/
SOLID PICS, I love your website and the pictures you folks are posting. I look forward to this new publishing. It looks like a solid start and has some wheels. Shoots, good luck. Kimo, Pearl City, HI WHERE DA CHICKS I hope you guys post more pics of chicks. This magazine looks sick!!! Cheeehoooo Cuz, solid!!!
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Maui, Waianae, HI THE NEW MAGAZINE Mahalo for printing this new magazine, it looks promising and insightful. It is definitely a new take on surf magazines. It looks more artistic and touching on real local issues. Congratulations on your new venture.
ALOHA FROM THE EDITOR We welcome the public to submit letters to the editors about the subjects we touch on and also welcome commentary, pictures and opinions on local issues. Mahalo, The Publisher
Alex, Kailua, HI.
STAFF Editor In Chief / Publisher Ignacio Cloud Breaker Fleishour The CW Chief Writer / Copy Editor Francisco Robles Photographers Bruno Lemos, Laurel Holm | 12
Graphic Designer Cristobal Alonso Advertising Director / Sales Brian Kessler advertising@hawaiiansurfmagazine.com
It's not just a game, It's your surf guide!
SURFONN MAG | 13
Photo & text: Francisco Robles HOW toREPORT Local
BEYOND PARADISE, THE HOMELESS
R
ecently, I drove to the West Side of Oahu. Past Makaha and Keaau Beach, beyond Keawaula and Yokohama Bay Kaena Point, I realized something had dramatically changed. On the beach from Keeau Beach park towards Makua Valley, I witnessed what appeared to be the aftermath of a third world bombing. Some kind of apocalyptic fallout, the land looked desolate, destroyed, dead. As a native of Makaha and being of Native American descent, I cannot help but think of the land as a living part of our family, and I equate the atrocities on the West Side akin to rape, abuse and neglect. For years that area has been used as a dumping ground, a refuge from the city, a place to hide out and live rent free, the end of the road for the tired, weary, and forgotten. Homelessness has become a major issue in the islands and I think most visitors don’t realize how big the problem really is. This is not entirely their fault. Hawaii’s tourism board | 14
and the tourist industry does their best to relatively contain our visitors to the “kept” corners of our island, far from the dark spaces that threaten to disrupt their expertly marketed ad conceived construction of paradise. As such, you might be asking yourself, how does this concern me? Take a look at the pictures, they speak volumes. The garbage, the human excrement, filth, and whatever else you might think about ends up in that ocean, and that in turn affects our reefs and beaches all along the coastline. This scene is not only played out in Makaha, but in Kakaako, Waikiki, Kaena, and Oahu’s North Shore as well. Paradise can quickly get lost in the reality beyond Waikiki. Still, you might be asking yourself what does this have to do with surfing? The simple answer is that what is going into the ocean, including the garbage, the runoff, and the sediment/ soil from loss of flora, directly affects the health of our ocean and reefs. By now, it should be clear that we cannot rely on either
industry or policy to resolve this issue. As watermen/ women we need to take a serious look at this and find ways to resolve these issues together. The reefs and coastline are directly impacted by these trespasses upon nature. I recall being able to go diving and within an hour, come back in with lobster, He’e, and fish for dinner easily caught within a 100 yard radius offshore from Makua. Now it takes heading way out and hours to get lucky enough to get a few fish and He’e, never mind the lobsters. It is not only the problem of the homeless or poor, but all of our Kuliana to deal with. What is sad is that we are often disconnected from our people with the greatest needs. Is there a connection? Well, we like to talk about Ohana, and we like to talk about Aloha, and yet we judge easily and turn our cheek to these issues. Granted, there is not a single solution to the problem and many reasons as to why these people might be in the situation they are in. They range from mental illness, too many kids, can’t find jobs, too expensive to live here, alcoholism, drugs… the list goes and on. However, all of these things are but symptoms, not the cause of the problems we face. Having experienced firsthand living on the beach years ago as a college freshman while working two jobs, I am not quick to judge. It is not easy to make it here in Hawaii if you are on your own and with little prospects. I have been fortunate enough and blessed with courage to get things done and to have had help from friends and “OHANA”. That word Ohana has a deep meaning and in my opinion should include our island, the environment, flora and fauna. We should view our community as a reflection of the forest. If we look at it and see that it is hurting or decaying, we need to look a little closer at the roots to see what it is that is affecting it. We often like to look with our eyes and turn away because it is ugly, but if we look closer and see what lies beneath, we can see that there are bigger issues just below the ground. What’s more, when we try to fix the symptoms, we often realize the sickness has different levels. Sometimes we think that removing the sapling or child from the problem, instilling education, help, counseling, and clothing upon that youth will cure the ailment. But then we send the sapling/child right back to that forest and, once again surrounded by the sickness, the sapling will become weakened again and the new roots will fall apart. Perhaps, if we approach and consider our human condition as commensurate with what we experience in the forest, adopt a sensitivity and awareness of natural laws, we might see these truths. The forest is a representation of a community, and like a community, the forest is interdependent upon all to be
healthy. When we look at a taro field, we see big leaves, their heavy weight dependent upon a small stalk and tuber. Below, in the mud, water and dirt is its strength, made even stronger because of an interconnected community of roots. Each element keeps the plant upright and healthy. Unfortunately, many of our children are raised in unhealthy forests. They look to role models rife with alcohol and drug addictions, aunties and uncles, brothers and sisters, mothers and fathers who are depressed, fearful, unemployed, and disconnected from their cultural strengths. For these youth, there is no such thing as childhood. They need to learn that what they have experienced is not their fault. Now. The cycle of life is broken between youth and adult. In traditional cultures, elders taught the youth how to transition into adulthood during coming-of-age ceremonies. Many of our young people no longer have access to these traditional teachings. We must assume our mantle as elders, we must bear these responsibilities once more, and we must not repeat the mistakes of our recent history. As a community or ohana that practices ALOHA, we must ask ourselves and answer together the following; Who are we? Why are we? Where are we going? It is too easy to lay blame on a government or on a country or economy. The truth is that when a community leads, the leaders will follow.
THE STATISCS:
STATEWIDE, 12-15,000 PEOPLE ARE HOMELESS AT SOME POINT OF THE YEAR. AT LEAST 6,000 ARE HOMELESS AT ANY GIVEN DAY. CHILDREN MAKE UP 23.5-39% OF THE HOMELESS. 17-42% OF HAWAII'S HOMELESS ARE EMPLOYED FULL-TIME. 37% OF THE HOMELESS ARE OF NATIVE HAWAIIAN ETHNICITY. SURFONN MAG | 15
HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
HOW / WHERE TO HELP:
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Catholic Charities Hawai‘i
Hale Kipa, Inc.
Kauai Economic Opportunities
(808) 595-0077
(808) 589-1829
(808) 245-4077
Admin Office: 2745 Pali Highway
2146 Damon Street
2804 Wehe Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96817
Honolulu, Hawaii 96826
Lihue, Hawaii 96766
Kawaihae Shelter
Hawaii Helping the Hungry
Lihue Court (Transitional, Families)
(Transitional, Families)
Have Hope (H5)
(808) 245-4077 ext 235
(808) 882-7609
(808) 223-5176
Manaolana (Emergency & Transitional,
Ma‘ili Land Shelter
1020 South Beretania Street
Singles & Families) (808) 245-7692
(Transitional, Families)
Honolulu, Hawaii 96814
Maui Economic Concerns of the Com-
(808) 696-4885
Next Step Shelter / Puahala
munity (808) 662-0076
Hawai`i Island Home
(Emergency & Transitional,
670 Waiale Road
for Recovery, Inc.
Singles & Families)
Wailuku, Hawaii 96793
(808) 934-7852
(808) 922-4790
Mental Health Kokua
55 Kilauea Avenue
Holomua Na Ohana
(808) 737-2523
Hilo, Hawaii 96720
(808) 259-6658
1221 Kapiolani Blvd., Suite 345
Family Life Center, Inc.
1551 A Mokuna Place
Honolulu, Hawaii 96814
(808) 877-0880
Honolulu, Hawaii 96816
Office for Social Ministry
95 South Kane Street
Honolulu Community Action Program
(808) 935-3050
Kahului, Hawaii 96732
(808) 521-4531
140-B Holomua Street
Family Promise of Hawaii
33 South King Street, Suite 300
Hilo, HI 96720
(808) 261-7478
Honolulu, Hawaii 96813
Beyond Shelter (Transitional, Singles &
69 North Kainalu Drive
Institute for Human Services
Families) (808) 933-6051
Kailua, Hawaii 96734
(808) 447-2824
Kiheipua Shelter (Emergency, Singles &
Gregory House Programs
546 Ka'aahi Street
Families) (808) 933-6051
(808) 592-9022
Honolulu, Hawaii 96817
Kuleana House (Transitional, Families)
770 Kapiolani Blvd, Suite 503
Ponahawaiola (Transitional, Singles)
Honolulu, Hawaii 96813
(808) 933-6029
SEQUENCES
Photos: Laurel Holm
North shore presents in Late Spring IT WASN'T ONLY THE FLORA WHO GOT THE SWEETNESS OF SPRING. THE NORTH SHORE SPROUTED SOME NICE WAVES LATE INTO THE SPRING SEASON WHEN IT IS USUALLY FLAT. HERE IS ONE OF THE LOCAL CHARGERS HARVESTING SOME OF THE BOUNTY.
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SURFONN MAG | 19
TE SPRING NORTH SHORE presents IN LA
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lemosimages.com
SURFONN MAG | 21
TE NORTH SHORE presents IN LA
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SPRING
THE MOVED PROJECT
THE MOVED PROJECT
THE MOVED PROJECT
BE THE CHANGE, BE MOVED ALYSHA GONSALVES, BRAND AMBASSADOR
themovedproject.com SURFONN MAG | 23
RING
TE SP NORTH SHORE presents IN LA
Tradition, Fun, Excellence and Achievement are the pillars of our Academy.
Not only will you learn to surf, but you will get the opportunity to learn lore, history, culture, safety and have fun while doing it.
www.hawaiiansurfacademy.com Our professionally trained staff are some of the best in the world and include competitive surfers who are dedicated to enhancing and sharing the sport for all to enjoy safely and with Aloha.
Photo: Surf Instructor and Coach, Davey Boy Gonsalves. Charging Backdoor Pipeline
HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
“C
h ina Walls,” a surf break located on Oahu’s southeastern most tip, is actually an amalgamation of four separate “breaks.” There’s “the wall,” a left that breaks right next to the cliff, “the point,” a section just inside of the wall, “the finger,” the far inside section, and “china walls” proper, a deep water left located further in the bay. (See above.) Each “wave” presents its own challenges, as each section will break differently according to tide, swell direction, swell size, and wind. For instance, “the wall” breaks best at low tide with a SE swell direction (the same could be said for China Walls proper) but is an absolute death trap at low tide with a SW swell, as the waves break directly into the wall. Catch the wrong wave on a day like this and you’re in for a trip alongside the jagged-rock cliff face. So how do you surf China Walls? The quick and easy answer to that question is always carefully. First, park on the residential street just above the park entrance to the break. Make sure to park closer to the cul-de-sac as opposed to the chain link gate down towards the finger as incidents of break-ins have been on the rise. Once parked, you can walk down the cul-de-sac, through the park, | 26
and down the trail to the cliffs. You can jump out at “the wall,” just make sure to time the sets, or you can walk down to the “point” to jump in, just be mindful of your footing as it’s pretty slippery as you get closer to the edge. The last entry/exit point is back at the aforementioned chain link fence. You’ll have to hop the fence (the city and county of Honolulu is currently refurbishing the concrete stairs that lead down to the water so access is blocked off) and walk down to the finger. Once there, you can walk out to the edge of the rock outcropping and jump, literally, right into the lineup. If you’ve managed to jump in unscathed and want to surf china walls proper, just paddle towards the coral head a few hundred feet into the bay. Congratulations, you made it into the water! Now comes the fun part, catching a wave! If you’re on “the wall,” you’ll have to sit right next to the cliff face in order to be in the best spot to catch a wave. Don’t worry, if you boggle the takeoff the wave will normally push you away from the rock and out to sea (see aforementioned reference to low tide an SW swell), so feel free to dig deep and make a go of it. Depending on the day, it’s possible to surf straight through the point and the finger. If you are sitting at the point, again, sit as close as possible to the rocks. The wave here has a tendency to break just before
FREE SURF CLASSIFIEDS the takeoff zone here so you’ll most likely be taking off in the whitewater here. But don’t let that fool you, the soup packs plenty of punch here, and if you don’t paddle hard to match the speed of the wave it will most likely mow you over. If you’re sitting at the inside finger section, again (big surprise), sit as close to the rock as you can. This is the shallowest section of the wave so be cautious on takeoff, if you don›t set your line quickly you run the risk of getting washed into the shallow reef directly in front of the takeoff area. China Walls proper has a few different takeoff spots, one, just above the coral heads, two, about thirty yards further down the left, and three, about another fifty yards down from that. Depending on the swell direction and size, there could be additional places to get into the wave here, but these three tend to be the most consistent of the bunch. Once your up and riding, expect a rush like no other! China Walls is unique in that you›re traveling at high speeds right next to majestic cliffs and rock formations. The scenery and the ride are unlike any other surf experience here on Oahu. If you’ve happened to catch a ride at China Walls proper, there’s a reason for the spot’s moniker, as the wave seems to stretch on forever, like the Great Wall of China! Be prepared for sections to float, carve, and (occasionally), barrel, as you negotiate the various “waves” out at China Walls. And remember, like most unique surf spots here on Oahu, there are a dedicated group of surfers that make it a point to surf the place almost exclusively. Surf with respect, watch to see who gets the pick of litter and see how they surf the break. Sit wide and give everyone their “turn.” The concentrated takeoff spots out there mandate an almost “conveyor belt” like system, so, wait for your chance then take it. If you show respect you’ll get respect in return. If you don’t, then the spot becomes all the more dangerous... fast. If you can manage to jump in, negotiate the lineup, and catch a few waves, then you’re faced with the prospect of getting out of the water :) There are three main spots to “climb” out here, just inside of the takeoff spot at the wall, just inside (in the bay) of the takeoff spot at the point, and back up the stairs inside of the finger. Don’t forget to time the sets before you make your move!
HAWAII SURFING CLASSIFIEDS SURFBOARDS & ACCESORIES USED & NEW BOARDS SURF LESSONS AND MORE...
SURFONN MAG | 27
WELCOME BACK UH “Aloha”to all of our new University of
Hawaii at Manoa incoming freshmen and a hearty “welcome back” to the rest of our UH ohana. With yet another fall semester looming, Hawaiian Surf Magazine has some surf tips and recommendations to keep you safe as you venture into the realm of surfing in the islands. Remember, Hawaii’s wave-rich waters are unlike any aquatic experience you’ve ever had. However, with a little foresight, some planning, and a little bit of courage, you too can experience one of Hawaii’s greatest gifts to the world, the art of surfing!
Of course, you’ll want to sample some of Waikiki’s historic surf scene and surf breaks, but there are many spots that skirt the main breaks at Waikiki proper that offer up more challenging waves and conditions. Make the long paddle out to Populars or “Pops” and, on the right swell, catch some of the longest rights on the island. Or, enjoy a fun-filled session with some of the South Shore’s best at Ala Moana Beach Park. If you’ve got access to transportation, head southeast and check out offshore breaks like Secrets and Turtles, catch a few open water waves at First Point, or try your luck in the ever-dangerous Sandy Beach shore break. On the right swell, Oahu’s east side is littered with secret spots, and, during the winter, Oahu’s North Shore is literally the center of the surfing universe. Still, you don’t have to have a 10’0” and be willing to charge 20ft waves to have a go of it, there are plenty of places to surf North Shore and still keep your skin intact. Tryout Monster Mush between Rocky Point
Photo: Marc Smith
For those of us that have some experience on a surfboard, remember the following: If you’re at a new surf spot, especially here in Hawaii, take some time to understand a little bit about the spot before you wax up and jump in. Look to see where other surfers are entering and exiting the water. Take notice of where surfers in the water are sitting, where they paddle when a set approaches, and what they do if they’ve fallen on a wave. Know if the tide is coming up or dropping. If you don’t know, ask. If there are lifeguards on duty, ask them about the break. You won’t look like a kook, it’s their job to understand the surf break, and they’ll probably have a lot more in-
formation than you can glean by simply watching the surf. Then wax up, paddle out, and have a blast! Many surf spots on Oahu lend themselves to the average or intermediate surfer.
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and Sunset Beach, as well as Chun’s or Leftovers for a smaller slice of the mythical North Shore experience. If you’ve got the stones (and, perhaps more importantly, the skills) the North Shore offers anything and everything you can ever hope to handle. Lastly, Oahu’s west side is home to some of the island’s most crystalline azure water and breathtaking surf. However, unlike much of the rest of the island, locals here are quite protective of their precious natural resources. Still, keep a cool head, show respect where respect is given, and you too can partake in a slice of old Hawaii. What about those of us that have never surfed a day in our lives? What about (gasp!) those of us that may have never even seen the ocean? Fear not, all is not lost, just follow these few guidelines: Hawaiian waves, even during small conditions, can be some of the most powerful waves on the planet. Unlike the continent, there is no continental shelf to slow down approaching swells, so waves move extremely fast from deep water to the shallow shore. Even on the safety of the sand, you’re susceptible to the power of the ocean as the receding waters can pull you into open water. And if you’re not used to swimming in the impact zone, shore break waves, tide, and currents can sap you of your energy in a hurry.
For all of the above reasons, if you truly want to give surfing a shot, we recommend choosing a surf school to help you learn how to surf… the right way. Surf schools like Hawaiian Surf Academy are staffed with professional surfers and trainers alike that have years of experience in Hawaiian waters. At a surf school, you get great information, learn the history of surfing, learn surfing’s spoken and unspoken rules, practice water safety, find out what type of board you should get, learn where you might go for a surf, and glean local knowledge from a local source. If you’re not new to the sport but aren’t quite ready to take the plunge, Hawaiian Surf Academy (http://hawaiiansurfacademy.com) offers the chance to surf with competitive surf legends like ASP Competitor Davey Boy Gonsalves. Sound like a king when you tell your friends and family back home, “yeah, I surfed with a world class surfer today, no big deal.” They also offer coaching for competitive surfing at Hawaiian Surf Academy. Davey Gonsalves coached his daughter into the ASP for Women and a first place title at The Pipeline Pro Jr. Women's Division. Wherever your path takes you this new school year, look to Hawaiian Surf Magazine to provide you the most up to date and relevant surf tips and instruction to keep your mind and body both healthy in, and out, of the water. Aloha.
525 Kapahulu Avenue Honolulu, Hawaii 96816
808-691-9599
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HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
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HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
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