Korean food is readily available all over our province
36 Making the Case …for getting out of a rut
38 Open That Bottle with Chevonne Miller-Centini, Restaurant Director and Co-owner of Centini Restaurant and founder of Centini Foods
It's cooling down out there and our thoughts are turning to warming, spicy foods – maybe from afar. This issue we’re shining a spotlight on the cuisine of South Korea, with recipes and dishes easily found in our many Korean restaurants across the province. Many thanks to photographer Dong Kim for his beautiful, yet simple, dynamic and impactful, photo adorning our cover this issue.
8 “Hallyu” The Korean Wave
It’s only in this century, with easily available internet and social media, that Korean culture has been promoted worldwide by Linda Garson
14 Local Roaster Celebrates
50 Years as Pioneer of The Specialty Coffee Industry
The Prefontaine brothers are building on the family legacy by Lucy Haines
16 Comfort Eating
Juicy and fragrant chicken meatballs bathed in a flavourful spicy harissa sauce by Renée Kohlman
18 Falling for German Beer
Autumn is the time for seasonal releases and Oktoberfest! by David Nuttall
20 Warm from the Inside Out
Ginger adds warmth, depth, and complexity to both sweet and savoury dishes by Natalie Findlay
24 Our 2024 Holiday Gift Guide
Our pick of kitchen appliances, drinks, books, experiences, and treats for your food and drinkloving family and friends
30 Beyond the Buzz
…zero-proof beverages are here to stay. There’s a wide selection to choose from in our stores and bars! by Shelley Boettcher
32 November Spirits …whisky, vodka, and tequila, picks for your autumn evenings and weekends by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
34 A Taste of Asia
Quality-driven drinks from Japan and South Korea by Tom Firth
We’re back…
From our amazing wine and culinary tour adventure in Alsace and Champagne – and OMG was it a good one!
Thank you to all the participants who wrote (and I’m quoting here) that the food and the wines were beyond expectations, and they experienced fantastic wineries and outstanding champagne houses. And it makes my heart sing when they say that as well as enjoying the wines and food, they’ve come home with the camaraderie of new friends who journeyed with them. Now we can’t wait for our repeat tour next autumn!
I’ve been catching up on all the fascinating happenings in Alberta’s beverage world, and it’s all good news. We’ve kissed and made up with our neighbours, resulting in legal cross-border shipping of wines, so we can openly order online direct for those wines we can’t get here, and join their wine clubs. We all win by that decision!
And now we hear that a panel of government MLAs have been looking into expanding alcohol sales outside our province’s 1,600 privately owned liquor stores, to grocery stores, just as the decision Ontario made a few months ago, that took effect October 31.
Welcome to the 21st Century Ontario! Now, not only can you buy beer, wine, and other alcoholic beverages (but not spirits/ hard liquor) in convenience stores and supermarkets, but you can fill up your tank and buy your booze at the gas station too! (Some Alberta 7-Eleven dining areas are already licensed to sell alcohol, as restaurants).
Alberta has been the only privatised province for liquor sales for 31 years, so we’ve been watching developments with both eyes open, but ultimately just a couple of weeks ago, the decision was made not to change the status quo here as it could "significantly harm small businesses
and could ultimately lead to widespread closures, job losses, and diminished selection for consumers."
We applaud that decision; our local liquor retailers are mostly staffed by knowledgeable and trusted, experienced sommeliers who can answer your questions, and advise on the right product for you - and there’s no shortage of wonderful, small, privately owned stores here offering us a bigger selection than anywhere else in the country!
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Our contributors
Natalie Fiindlay
After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, photographer and health coach, and is loving every minute of it.
Dong Kim
A freelance photographer and consultant, Dong splits his time between Edmonton and Calgary. Although he shoots a wide range of subjects, his passion lies in photographing food and capturing stories from the food community. An avid traveller whose itineraries often revolve around learning about a culture through its culinary scene, Dong shares many of his travels and food encounters on Instagram at @therealbuntcake.
Lucy Haines
For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
A long-time freelance writer, Lucy specializes in travel, food, arts, and entertainment. In a 30-year-plus career writing newspaper and magazine features, Lucy has interviewed celebrities, reviewed theatre productions and restaurants, and sampled foods around the world. Lucy covered news for Metro Newspaper Edmonton for a decade, and was editor at Alberta Prime Times, the province’s senior lifestyle news magazine, for several years.
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. We are committed to support Indigenous chefs and amplify their voices to bring awareness of the food and culture of the First Nations.
With 14 unique venues, fit for corporate galas or family affairs, and extensive catering options available, an event at Heritage Park is for sure to be filled with lasting memories.
Proudly printed in Alberta by Burke Group.
Congratulations to the winning chefs at Edmonton’s regional qualifier for the Canadian Culinary Championship. Riverview at Glenora Park’s Chef Doreen Prei took the top spot, with silver going to Chef Jason Greene from Braven, and bronze to Out of Bounds Restaurant’s Chef Julia Kundera.
And congrats to Edmonton’s Duchess Bake Shop celebrating their 15th birthday, and to Calgary steakhouse, Hy’s, on the 10th anniversary of their return to the city!
Elephant & Castle has opened its British-inspired pub in Calgary’s former Rose & Crown location, keeping the building alive with a major refurbishment and ensuring its future. You’ll be coming to talk business, chat with friends, or for soccer - the rooms are themed for different teams with no shortage of TVs showing the different games. The menu includes British classics: bangers and mash, fish and chips, meat pies (with a four-flight option to try them all!), sausage rolls, along with pub standards: burgers, wings, tacos… and of course a full bar list of draught and canned beers. It’s even better from 3-6 pm on weekdays, with $6 drinks and share plates! 1503 4 Street SW, elephantcastle.com
And in Edmonton… Lawson’s British Fish & Chips has opened at the Sunwapta Centre, 10183 186 Street NWand they know a thing or two, having run fish and chip shops across Scotland and England since 1987, launching in Canada in 2001. With pictures of English music icons eating fish and chips adorning the walls, and chip butties and mushy peas on the extensive menu (which includes steak and mushroom pie and haggis),
and British beers and cider to wash it all down, we feel completely at home. lawsonsfishandchips.com
Say “hi” to Bonjour: the tiny sandwich shop run by Steph and François Mion (of Avitus) in Calgary's Marda Loop - you’ll thank us! Choose crispy baguette with French fillings (try Bayonne ham with caramelised onions, and watch them melt the Morbier cheese with a huge blow torch!) or go for softer Schiacciata bread with Italian fillings (hot chicken pesto!), and don’t miss their Boeuf Bourguignon Comte sandwich with jus on the side. You can also build your own - pick your bread, protein, cheese, veggies, and spread, or try a meat or cheese board. Grab a non-alc beer or French soda (wine soon), and beignet for dessert. And they offer catering! 1909 34 Avenue SW, 11-5 closed Monday.
Edmonton’s Rachael King Bakery is open at 9754 182 Street, offering made from scratch, fresh, soft bread with ingredients from local farms and mills. As well as White and Butter Bread, try their signature African Sweet Bread, a Nigerian recipe much loved worldwide by people from Africa and the Caribbean. rachaelkingbakery.com
Chefs Bharat and Ashish have opened chef-driven, Namo Café Bistro in the south of Calgary, and unlike the Beltline and Edmonton Trail locations - it’s open for dinner too! Working
together since their days at Belgo, these chefs have cooked all over the world, and the best experiences from their culinary journeys have inspired their menu, with must-try dishes such as the 6-inch Hoisin Duck Spring Rolls, and amazing flavours in the Turmeric Roasted Cauliflower! GM Jorelle oversees the bar and creates excellent cocktails (try the Irish Maid!). Designed by Perspective Interiors, this bright and modern restaurant serves brunch and dinner seven days (except Tuesday nights). 9737 Macleod Trail SW, namocafebistro.com
Daniel Costa’s newest venture, Olia, is now open in Edmonton’s Citizen on Jasper, and it’s the new incarnation of much-loved Uccellino! They’re getting rave reviews of ‘unbelievably fantastic food’, ‘beautiful ambience’, and ‘fabulous service’, with a menu that includes many Uccellino faves along with new creations, and - showcasing their made by hand in-house pasta – a pasta tasting menu with optional pairings from their exclusively Italian wine list. Wednesday–Sunday, 12016 Jasper Avenue.
Calgary has a new Peruvian restaurant! Sumaq (‘beautiful’ or ‘harmonious’) is a cultural education and experience as well as delicious! It’s family, with Chef Erika, from the north of Peru, and grandmum in the kitchen, following their hearts rather than recipes, and brother Eduardo is GM (the wall decorations were made by his son!). But you’re coming to enjoy the wonderful menu; to sip on one of the pisco cocktails, and savour the beautifully balanced textures and flavours in freshly made seafood Causitas, Tiradito, Ceviche, and meaty plates of Pollada and Lomo Saltado, like we did. But save room for sweet potato and squash dessert Picarones! 1424 17 Avenue SW, closed Mondays. sumaq17.ca
Hallyu The South Korean Wave
Acouple of years ago, the most popular food trends for new restaurant openings were pizza, bubble tea, and Korean (when we say ‘Korea’, we are referring to South Korea), and guess what? Nothing has changed!
We’ve talked at length about Alberta’s love of pizza as well as bubble tea – and now with so many new Korean restaurants opening, it’s Korea’s turn to shine. But why has it become so prevalent? The culinary traditions have evolved over centuries, but it’s only in this century, with easily available internet, social media - sites like Spotify and YouTube – and the rise of delivery services, that Korean culture has been promoted worldwide because of the Korean wave (‘Hallyu’), which includes K-pop (rapper Psy’s 2012 ‘Gangnam Style’ was the first YouTube video to be viewed a billion times!) K-dramas, and yes - Korean cuisine.
So let’s take a closer look. At the heart of Korean food culture is communal eating. We have many Korean BBQ restaurants where people will grill meats together and eat ‘banchan’, small – usually vegetableside dishes and pickles that come with the dish. And ‘jang’, the fermented sauces and pastes used in cooking, such as gochujang (fermented chili paste that packs some heat), doenjang (like miso, a fermented soybean paste), and ganjang (wheat-free soy sauce), that balance the sweet, spicy, sour, and umami flavours. You’ll also notice a distinct lack of dairy in Korean cuisine.
So what are the most popular dishes?
Fried chicken – the other KFC (Korean Fried Chicken!) has become popular all over the world for its super crunchy batter, usually a potato starch
BY LINDA GARSON
base, and double-fried to be extra crispy. It was likely introduced by US soldiers in the 50s during the Korean war, and in the 70s, when the country experienced a period of rapid economic growth, demand for fast food increased and we saw the first fried chicken restaurants. It became even more popular in 1984 when Kentucky Fried Chicken opened across Korea.
Bibimbap is perhaps one of the most well known Korean dishes: a bowl of cooked rice topped with sautéed vegetables such as mushrooms, carrots, zucchini, spinach, and beansprouts, and marinated meat – usually thinly sliced beef. A sunny-side-up fried egg goes on top, and it’s finished with a sprinkle of sesame seeds and the addictive sweet-spicy bibimbap sauce made from gochujang, sesame oil, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar.
Kimbap is a Korean mainstay found in grocery and convenience stores everywhere for snacks on the go. Translated as seaweed (kim) and rice (bap), it looks like sushi but it has its own identity – the rice is seasoned with sesame oil and you don’t use wasabi or soy sauce. As kimbap doesn’t use raw fish fillings, it keeps longer and doesn’t have to be eaten the same day.
Kimchi is spicy and sour fermented veggies, usually napa cabbage amongst others, that is served as banchan, or incorporated into other dishes such as jeon - a savoury pancake, jjigaeKorean stew, and fried rice.
Bulgogi is thinly sliced meat, most commonly beef, marinated in a sweet and savoury sauce, and grilled or barbequed. It’s used as a topping for bibimbap and in kimbap - and these days in tacos!
Japchae is a dish of stir-fried glass noodles made from sweet potatoes, with vegetables and marinated meat in a soy and sesame-based sauce.
Galbi means ‘ribs’, and is usually beef short ribs marinaded in a sweet sesame soy sauce, and grilled or barbequed.
The Kimbap Cookbook 50+ Delicious and BeginnerFriendly Recipes for Rolls, Rice Balls, and More Convenience Store-Style Snacks.
Chef Seung-Ju Choi has made it so easy for us to make our own kimbap with her easy-touse book. She shows us how to make the seasoned rice, prep the ingredients, and gives tips for making ‘pretty rolls’, then fills her four chapters with tasty recipes for kimbap, rice balls, rice rolls, and sandwiches. We can’t wait to make her Mayak Kimbap – so called because ‘mayak’ is Korean for ‘drug’ - because she says it’s addictive! The large type, simple directions, and photos of every recipe, mean our kids can have fun in the kitchen making their own snacks too! Ulysses Press $27.
K-Food
At Calgary’s Korilla Korean BBQ, owner and chef Simon Park lets his past come through in the food he cooks. Born in Korea and raised in California, he eventually traded the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip for the endless skies of the Saskatchewan prairies. “I’ve travelled to many countries to experience different cultures. Those multicultural experiences have had an effect on my food.”
His favourite on Korilla’s menu? Daeji Galbi (galbi marinated pork shoulder):
“In Korea, Daeji Galbi is very popular but each restaurant has a different flavour. It’s a very traditional dish but the galbi marinade is enjoyed worldwide,” he continues. While Korean food looks difficult to many, Chef Simon says the secret is having the right recipe for a marinade or a sauce.
“This is my L.A. Galbi recipe, a very authentic Korean marinade.” He adds that the temperature of the pan is important when cooking, to get the flavour of the finished dish right. “Don’t cook the meat before the pan is ready.”
“Don’t think Korean dishes are complicated. It’s very simple to make a traditional flavour, and I hope readers aren’t afraid of trying this and other Korean recipes.”
BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM
L.A. Galbi
Serves 4-6
2 Kg beef short rib, Maui cut
1 cup onion, minced
¼ cup garlic, minced
½ cup ginger, minced
1 cup (240 mL) soy sauce
½ cup (120 mL) cooking sake
½ cup sugar
3 cups (750 mL) 7-Up
2 Tbs (30 mL) sesame oil
Pinch black pepper, course ground
4 bunches green onions, chopped
1. Soak the short ribs in cold water for 15 minutes.
2. Blend together onion, garlic, and ginger.
3. Combine remaining ingredients, apart from meat and green onions, until well mixed to make the marinade.
4. Add green onions.
5. Marinate meat 12 – 48 hours in marinade.
6. Pre-heat grill or pan to 325º F.
7. Remove ribs from marinade and grill or fry the ribs 2 minutes on each side.
Korea’s four distinct seasons are the inspiration behind Chef Hun’s cooking at Edmonton’s SANG. Each season offers different ingredients at their peak, he explains, using them to create dishes that are a blend of traditional Korean flavours with a modern touch. “I also enjoy experimenting with Canadian ingredients and take inspiration from local foods that I experience first-hand.”
Take, for example, Hun’s favourite dish at SANG, Beef Tartare and Gimbap. “The chewy and savoury taste of the beef tartare pairs perfectly with the vegetables in the gimbap, making it a fulfilling and wholesome meal.”
“The essence of Korean cooking lies in its jang (fermented pastes),” he adds. Soy sauce, doenjang, and gochujang are all fermented over long periods of time giving them their rich umami taste. Using these pastes will help cooks recreate the authentic, deep flavours of Korean cuisine. His recipe for Doenjang Chicken Maekjeok (Soybean Marinated Chicken) makes good use of soybean paste, removing unwanted odours and tenderizing the meat.
He adds, “Since barbecuing is popular
in Canada, I thought this recipe would allow people to enjoy a familiar barbecue dish with a Korean twist, making Korean cuisine more approachable.”
Doenjang Chicken Maekjeok Gui
Serves 4
4 boneless chicken thighs
2 heads romaine lettuce
100 g baby arugula
¾ cup + 1 Tbs (200 mL) canola oil
Doenjang Marinade:
300 g soybean paste (doenjang)
1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL)
white wine
1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) water
100 g sugar
Sesame Dressing:
5 Tbs (75 mL) soy sauce
1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL)
sesame oil
¾ cup + 1 Tbs (200 mL) canola oil
75 g sugar
100 g ground sesame seeds
1. Prepare the boneless chicken thighs by slicing into them with a knife.
2. Combine all the ingredients for the doenjang marinade in a mixing bowl and blend with a hand blender.
3. Place the sliced chicken thighs in the marinade and let them marinate for 24 hours.
4. Combine all the sesame dressing ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.
5. Grill the marinated chicken thighs over a charcoal grill or in a pan, turning them frequently to prevent burning.
6. Cut the romaine lettuce into bite-sized pieces, wash the arugula, and remove excess water. Toss them in the sesame dressing.
7. Slice the grilled chicken into bite-sized pieces and serve with the salad tossed in sesame dressing.
8. Enjoy the chicken and sesame salad together!
The dishes you’ll find at Calgary’s Tiger K are one part Culinary Creative Director Sharon Choe, and one part Executive Chef Tomo Mitsuno. Blending Choe’s Japanese-Korean heritage and Chef Tomo’s experience, the result is what Choe calls “unique Korean flavours that are exclusive to Calgary, blending elements of both Western and Japanese cuisine.”
Designing a menu around Choe’s favourite dishes means that every dish is her favourite, and you can bet they all start with quality ingredients, something that Choe says is most important. “Use fresh vegetables, good soy sauce, and, if possible, find Korean essentials like gochujang and sesame oil at local Asian markets.” She adds that you can’t rush the process, especially with dishes like bulgogi or soups.
Kimchi is another dish that traditionally relies on time for the fermentation process. Here, Choe shares her recipe for Instant Kimchi. “I picked this dish as the recipe is perfect for beginners who aren’t yet accustomed to the strong, fermented taste of traditional kimchi.” Follow the recipe
and use exact portions as listed and avoid adjusting the amount of gochugaru. “If you prefer less spice, try using the less spicy brand for a milder flavour.”
Instant Kimchi
1 Napa cabbage
5 chives
½ onion
200 g gochugaru (Korean chili powder)
1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) anchovy fish sauce
2 Tbs (30 mL) salted shrimp sauce
130 g ground garlic
130 g sugar
1. Rinse the Napa cabbage and chop it into easy to bite sized pieces.
2. Chop the chives into 2.5-5 cm sized pieces.
3. Slice the onion thinly.
4. In a large bowl, combine the gochugaru, fish sauce, salted shrimp sauce, ground garlic, and sugar. Mix well to form a thick paste.
5. Using gloves, add the cabbage, chopped chives, and sliced onion to the paste. Mix thoroughly, ensuring each cabbage leaf is well coated with the sauce.
Note: This is a fresh kimchi, ready to eat right away — no fermentation required!
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Co-owner of Hanjan Restaurant & Bar in Edmonton, Sam Kyungeun Lee learned a lot about cooking from his business partner and mother, Lisa. “Growing up we didn't have a lot, but my mom is very resourceful and knew how to throw down in the kitchen, so my sisters and I were blessed to always come home to a delicious and comforting meal.”
When it comes to making Korean food, Lee reminds us that our hands are our greatest tools. “Whether you’re mixing banchan, marinating meats or peeling garlic, don’t be afraid to really get in the food with your hands!”
Growing up in Sanbon, Korea, Lee has many memories associated with his mother and food. His recipe for Dotori Mook (Acorn Jelly) reminds him of hiking a mountain with his mother. “During our hike I would gather as many acorns as I could and ask my mom to make me dotori mook. It was and still is one of my favourite dishes.”
Similar to tofu in both texture and versatility, dotori mook is often eaten cold and served with a soy-based dressing. “It’s slightly earthy, but mostly neutral,” explains Lee. “Don’t be afraid if you don’t have all the ingredients for the sauce. Dig into your cabinets and try your own combination. And if it works well, please send me the recipe!”
Dotori Mook - Acorn Jelly
Serves 2-4
100 g acorn flour (you’ll find it in Korean supermarkets and other Asian markets)
4 cups (1 L) water
4 Tbs (60 mL) soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 mL) honey
1 tsp garlic
1 tsp coarse Korean pepper powder
1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil
½ tsp vinegar
1 tsp chopped green onion Sprinkle sesame seeds
1. Grease a 20 cm square baking pan and set aside.
2. Combine the acorn flour and cold water, and mix well.
3. Transfer the mix with a rubber spatula into a pot, and cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally. As you cook, the mixture will thicken. Keep stirring and cooking even after it thickens until the mixture becomes very thick, with large pieces sticking to your spatula, and it feels too thick to pour (around 8-10 minutes).
4. Move the mixture into a square baking
pan and smooth the top out with your spatula. Put parchment paper on top and leave to cool for a few hours to overnight. Do not cool in the fridge as the rapid change in temperature can ruin the texture.
5. Mix remining ingredients together in a bowl to make a sauce. Save some green onion and sesame seeds for garnish.
6. Once the acorn jelly is cooled, take it out of the baking pan and cut into rectangles. Pour sauce on top and garnish with green onion and sesame seeds.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.
Local Roaster Celebrates 50 Years as Pioneer of The Specialty Coffee Industry
BY LUCY HAINES
Fratello means ‘brother’ in Italian – a fitting moniker for Calgary-based Fratello Coffee Roasters, the family-focused coffee pioneer celebrating 50 years in the industry. Brothers Chris and Russ Prefontaine are at the helm of what started as their dad, Cam’s, humble coffee distribution company in 1974, (he switched to being a roaster in 1985), and the pair has continued to build on the family legacy to become a preeminent roaster (distributor, equipment service provider) in Alberta and the western Canadian market.
The company’s longevity is all the more impressive when thinking back a few decades, to what coffee culture used to be. In essence, it didn’t exist. In the early 80s, there were no independent
coffee shops featuring locally roasted, craft brews or serving as a place to meet friends, people watch, or work on the laptop. Fast forward to today, and who could imagine a city street without a spate of coffee shops, independents and chains alike? It was the Prefontaine family that spearheaded the growth of coffee culture in the Calgary area, and while Fratello isn’t resting on its laurels, it’s celebrating its place at the forefront of the coffee evolution. The morning cup of joe has come a long way, indeed.
“We grew up watching our parents’ work ethic and we’d help out in the summer or on weekends to earn a buck ourselves. It was always part of our lives,” explains Russ, Fratello president. Though the 49-year-old only came on board full time in the early 90s, he and company
CEO Chris, 52, (plus older brother Jason), were ambitious in taking their dad’s roasting company to new heights.
First came Espuccino Imports in 1991, when the newbie entrepreneurs achieved quick success by becoming North America’s third largest distributor of Nuova Simonelli espresso machines. Then in 1997, the brothers merged that company with their parents’ Custom Gourmet Coffee to create Fratello. Yet another achievement, the brothers’ Slayer Espresso, was also a key player in the early days of specialty coffee machines.
Eldest brother Jason took that company to the US in 2009, eventually selling it and retiring to Florida along with his parents.
“Being a family-owned business is at the heart of everything we do. It allows us to stay true to our values, to focus on quality,
sustainability and the community,” says Russ. We’re doing what we love, doing what we’re good at, and not trying to be anything else. It’s that simple. That, and aligning ourselves with the right people.”
Margie Gibb, of Calgary’s popular Caffe Beano on 17th Avenue, owns what was one of the city’s very first coffee shops to feature specialty and local brews. And Gibb knows well the importance of having a local, one-stop-shop supplier/roaster (which also sells and services coffee equipment) to work with. It’s why she’s been with Fratello since the beginning, a partner for 30 years and counting.
“They were THE roasters in town,” Gibb remembers. “And their quality and consistency is everything. We were able to stay open through COVID because Fratello stayed open, roasting coffee just for us. Ultimately, the product has to taste great, and it does. Customers come from all over for our Beano house espresso (a Fratello exclusive).”
Another feather in their cap came in 2011, when the brothers’ desire to be part of every element of the coffee journey, from bean to cup, led them to launch Analog Coffee. “We always wanted to be part of where customers gather for a simple cup of coffee,” says Russ of the decade-long ‘coffee experience’ with Analog, which grew to 10 locations around the city. “But it was the right decision for us to eventually return to our roots and passion as wholesale roasters. What that allowed Chris and I to do was focus, to be free from so many spinning plates, so many brands, so many employees and locations. We decided to stick with Fratello, our bread and butter that we’d grown up knowing and loving, and finetune this business,” says Russ.
That well-earned industry savvy has helped Fratello weather economic storms (like the pandemic and more than one recession), and when the brand expanded in the late 1990s, Fratello downsized the team from nearly 100 to just 18. Today that number sits at 14, an efficient staff working from an 18,000 square-foot facility in Calgary’s southeast.
Being immersed in the world of coffee from childhood meant the brothers fell in love with coffee itself, its origins and the farm families that grow beans all over the world – in other words, it remains a passion to this day. Russ says he remembers his first ‘coffee origin’ trip to Brazil. “It blew my mind to see a coffee tree and meet the
growers. You can’t get that watching a video of coffee production.”
The company seeks out like-minded vendors and aligned coffee producers from around the world, with an ever-growing focus on education and ethical sourcing. Fratello has Direct Trade relationships with partners in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Colombia, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, and Indonesia, countries that help supply product to independent cafes, restaurants, coffee services, and resorts like Sunshine Village and Fairmont hotels. Beyond the Calgary area, java junkies find their fix at places like Pact Coffee and Bon Ton Bakery in Edmonton.
The Fratello brand has a strong following online and in groceries too. Whether it’s caramel, chocolate, or toffee notes of Godfather Espressos, (a top seller), the spiced cocoa flavour of Bull Rider, or the richness of the French Saigon Dark blend, Fratello is giving consumers what they’re asking for. There’s even a line of loose leaf and bagged tea in the product mix.
“We craft these products with passion and a commitment to quality, and we’re grateful so many cafés, restaurants, offices, hotels, and coffee drinkers, share our appreciation,” Russ says.
Well aware that the company is a product of not only family but its environment, Fratello regularly donates to the Mustard Seed and supports the December CBC/ Calgary Food Bank campaign. In over a decade, the business has donated hundreds, even thousands of bags of coffee and helped raise about a half million dollars for the nonprofit. It’s a no-brainer, Russ says. Being part of the community means donating funds and supplying hundreds of pounds of fresh coffee where it’s called to give, including to charities ranging from homelessness to addiction.
In a milestone year that has celebrated the family journey in the coffee industry and of the community, and support Fratello has received from Calgary and Western Canada, the Prefontaine brothers are still focused on what has always driven the company. “In the end, we’d rather spend time on our customers and win their hearts.”
Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.
Harissa Chicken Meatballs Comfort Eating
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY
RENÉE KOHLMAN
November’s grey skies and plummeting temperatures can make it a slog of a month to get through, but then I think of all the cozy comfort food I get to eat, and then the second-to-last month of the year doesn’t seem so bad.
While I tend to reach for rich and hearty soups, stews, and pastas, there’s just something about a plate of tasty meatballs that makes me so darn happy. Whether they’re simmered in an aromatic tomato sauce, glazed with sweet and sour goodness, or coated in
a creamy mushroom sauce, I’m all inevery. Single. Time. My favourite version as of late is this recipe for chicken meatballs bathed in a spicy harissa sauce. Talk about flavour! The meatballs are super juicy and incredibly fragrant, and all you need is a little jar of harissa paste to make this meatball magic happen. If you’ve never cooked with harissa before, you’re in for a real treat. So what exactly is harissa? The short answer is it’s a blend of hot peppers, various spices, and oil. The word harissa comes from Arabic, meaning “to crush”, “to
grind, or puree”. It can be a paste, which in turn is the base for flavourful sauces, stews, and curries. Harissa is also a sauce which is used like a condiment in Libya, Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria. Harissa ingredients vary from country to country, even neighbourhood to neighbourhood, but the base ingredients are hot peppers, garlic, salt, and olive oil. Next come the spice add-ins which can be anything from cumin, coriander, caraway, and perhaps even dried mint. The peppers used to make harissa are on the hot side, which makes it perfect
for enhancing meat and fish dishes, or even adding a little oomph to sauces and couscous.
You can make your own harissa sauce (be sure to wear gloves when chopping hot peppers), or you can purchase a paste like I do. Harissa paste can be found in larger supermarkets, online, and in specialty grocery stores. Because the spice level can vary from brand to brand, I like to start with smaller amounts then increase if I need to.
I added harissa paste to both the meatballs and the sauce, but if you want to add to just one of these, that would be fine too. Ground chicken is the base for these meatballs but ground lamb or even turkey would work. The finely chopped dried apricots add sweetness and the toasted almonds add a pleasant crunch. Of course fresh herbs and plenty of garlic are a must as well. The rich tomato sauce has flavour for days, and I like to tuck in some chickpeas for extra protein and fibre. The dish is garnished with feta and I like to swirl a bit of yogurt in for a final flourish.
Served with buttered couscous and warm pita bread, this dish of meatballs is a warming hug of a feast. Winter may be coming, but we’ll always have meatballs!
Harissa Chicken Meatballs serves 4
500 g ground chicken
¾ cup breadcrumbs
1 onion, diced
1 large egg
¼ cup finely chopped dried apricots
¼ cup finely chopped toasted almonds
3 Tbs (45 mL) harissa paste, divided
2 Tbs finely chopped fresh mint
2 Tbs finely chopped fresh parsley
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or olive oil
1 796 mL can crushed tomatoes
1 540 mL can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 Tbs (15 mL) pomegranate molasses
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp salt
Plain yogurt, crumbled feta cheese, fresh mint, and parsley, for serving
1. In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, breadcrumbs, half of the diced onion, the egg, apricots, almonds, 2 Tbs (30 mL) harissa paste, fresh herbs, half of the minced garlic, cumin, coriander, salt, and pepper.
2. Once combined, shape into 18-20 golf ball sized meatballs, placing them on a large tray.
3. Heat the oil in a large deep sided skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the meatballs and brown until golden all over, turning every 2 minutes, for about 8 minutes total. Depending on the size of your skillet, you may have to do this in batches. Remove from the skillet and place on a plate.
4. To the same skillet, add the remaining diced onion, and sauté for 3-4 minutes until translucent. Stir in the remaining garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes (rinse out the can with 1 cup (250 mL) water, the chickpeas, the remaining 1 Tbs (15 mL) of harissa paste, the pomegranate molasses, sugar, and salt.
5. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.
6. Return the meatballs and any pan juices to the skillet and simmer uncovered for 12 minutes, until the meatballs are cooked through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you would like it spicier, add more harissa paste. Garnish with yogurt, feta cheese, fresh mint and parsley. Serve with warm pita, and buttered couscous.
Note:
Pomegranate molasses is syrupy with a hint of sweetness and a slight tartness. Look for it in the same places you’d find the harissa paste. If you can’t find it, you can replace it with honey or maple syrup mixed with lemon juice to provide the tangy note and thick sweetness, or use balsamic vinegar or glaze.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.
Falling For German Beer
BY DAVID NUTTALL
Märzen
True Märzen (March) beers are brewed in early spring and stored away (lagered) over the next few months to be released for Oktoberfest and other fall festivals. Usually copper to amber in colour, it is also often higher in alcohol, close to 6 percent ABV. The use of Munich malt provides the colour, and the result is a toasty, malty, medium bodied, almost sweet tasting lager, with minimal noble hop presence in aroma and flavour. The style has evolved over the years and modern versions, especially those from North American craft breweries, are now märzens in name only. These beers may be found as year-round products, and are usually slightly darker, more malty versions of a lager.
Oktoberfest Beers
If the beer is a lager, it is similar to a märzen, but probably a bit lighter in colour and body. Indeed, there are also ale versions as well, and while some are aged for several months, many are not. Either style will be amber in colour with a bit more malt body than light lagers and ales. This name is often used by German and craft breweries to denote beers that are available only in the fall, and are usually attached to seasonal celebrations.
Festbier
As Oktoberfest beers evolved through the years, the breweries of Munich felt they were becoming too heavy bodied and filling (which,
Although great any time of the year, German beer really gets highlighted in the autumn. Not only are many special seasonals released, it is also the time for the world’s largest and most famous beer festival, Oktoberfest.
Beginning in Munich in 1810 as a celebration of the marriage of Kronprinz Ludwig (later King Ludwig I) and Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen, it has been held every year since (with a couple of exceptions). It has become such a popular event, locations throughout Germany now stage their own festivals and imitations of various sizes are also held all over the world.
Of course, one of the most important components of the festival is the beer. Only six breweries are represented at the original festival: Hofbräu, Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten, Löwenbräu, and Paulaner. With over six million visitors each year, a whole range of beer varieties are available, some of which are made specifically for the event. The main styles that are usually brewed for the festival are Märzen, Oktoberfest, and Festbier. Each has its own unique qualities, but the names do not always represent a strict style definition. However, most are only available for a limited time, so they are well worth exploring at this time of year.
of course, can affect sales) so there needed to be some other options available. Enter the Festbier, and by the last quarter of the 20th century it had become the most popular beer at Oktoberfest. Its appearance is clear and straw to light gold in colour, with a lighter body and greater drinkability than other celebration beers. Some Festbiers are now lower in alcohol and, as a nod to modern times, even nonalcoholic beers are rearing their foamy head.
It should be noted that craft breweries play fast and loose with these names and attach them to any beer style they want to serve in the fall. The real German imports usually appear in September and are available in Alberta liquor stores and some restaurants and
bars until they stock out, usually by the end of the year. You are also sure to find local craft brewery versions with variations in authenticity to the German originals.
Below are a few German imports and a couple of Alberta craft beer versions available now.
Ayinger Oktober Fest- Märzen
A clear amber colour, this is a medium bodied lager with a malt forward flavour of toasted caramel. Brewed in March and aged until release in September, it is from the town of Aying, just outside of Munich, and is a favourite at many Oktoberfest celebrations. 5.8 percent ABV.
CSPC 728875, $6, 500 mL bottle
Erdinger Oktoberfest
Coming from the town of Erding, a half-hour north of Munich, this cloudy, amber wheat ale is refermented in the bottle, and matured for several months, giving it a rich yet spicy flavour.
5.7 percent ABV.
CSPC 894464, $6, 500 mL bottle
Paulaner
Oktoberfest
A golden colour lager with a nice bready malt flavour. Low hopped, but with a medium body and a 6 percent ABV. CSPC 644740 $5, 500 mL can
Dandy Festbier (Alberta)
Made to celebrate Oktoberfest and their own Dandy Fest, it also marks this Calgary brewery’s tenth anniversary. It is a classic pale lager with a bit of wheat malt and a grassy hoppiness from German hops. Crisp and easy drinking at 3.5 percent ABV.
CSPC 115003 $19, 4 x 473 mL can
Grizzly Paw Mountaineer Märzen (Alberta)
From Canmore comes a local version of the märzen. A coppercoloured lager with a little less body than the Ayinger, but with all the right caramel notes and subtle hoppiness. 5 percent ABV.
CSPC 877881, $19, 4 x 473 mL can
There are other imported German celebration beers available, but also check out what local craft breweries have brewed for the fall. There is much more to German beer than these seasonals, and we will look at some of those styles in early 2025. In the meantime, Prost!
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Warm from the Inside Out
Ginger produces a warm and fiery taste that gives an unmistakable and comforting kick to any dish. It doesn’t require long cooking times to impart its intense flavour. You can add slivers to your stir fry, grate into a marinade or salad dressing or simply thinly slice for a cup of warming ginger tea.
This zesty plant comes from the rhizome of Zingiber officinale, a tropical flowering plant from the same family as cardamom and turmeric. It is possible to grow your own ginger plant at home from a piece of ginger you purchase at the grocery store - you should try it.
While ground ginger makes it easy to just pop the top and sprinkle, it doesn’t have the depth and tickle that fresh ginger has. You can layer ground ginger with fresh ginger for longer cooking foods like stews and soups.
Candied ginger is a welcome addition to baked goods. It adds a delightful complexity, balancing sweetness with a subtle kick that enhances the overall taste experience.
You will find that ginger pairs well with a variety of flavours, adding warmth, depth, and complexity to both sweet and savoury dishes. It makes a great culinary addition to your winter meals.
Chocolate Ginger Scones
Makes 12
2½ cups flour
½ cup Dutch process cocoa powder
½ cup sugar
2½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
1 Tbs ground ginger
½ tsp salt
¾ cup cold butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup (250 mL) milk
1/3 cup candied ginger
1/3 cup mini chocolate chips
Preheat oven to 425º F.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
1. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, cocoa, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, ground ginger, and salt.
2. Add the butter, and using your fingertips, work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture has pea size pieces of butter disbursed into the mixture.
3. Stir in the candied ginger and chocolate chips.
4. Pour the milk into the dry ingredients. Mix only until the ingredients are just moistened. If the dough looks dry, then add another tablespoon of milk.
5. Gather the dough into a ball and press it together gently so that it holds together. Turn out onto lightly floured surface and knead very briefly, around 10-12 times maximum.
6. Cut the dough in half. Press each half into a 2 cm thick circle that is about 17 cm across. Cut into 6 triangle pieces.
7. Place the scones on a lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 - 12 minutes. Transfer to a rack.
These are best served warm but also great at room temperature.
Maple Ginger Roasted Vegetables with Pecans
Serves 4
½ small butternut squash, peeled, cut into small cubes
8 brussels sprouts, halved
1 sweet potato, cubed
½ small cauliflower, roughly chopped
1 medium carrot, sliced on the diagonal
½ cup pecans, roughly chopped
¼-1/3 cup (60-80 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 tsp ground cloves
¾ tsp sea salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ Tbs fresh ginger, minced
¼ cup (60 mL) pure maple syrup
Sprinkle finishing salt
1. Preheat oven to 350º F.
2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl add all vegetables as well as the pecans.
3. Add the olive oil, nutmeg, cloves, salt, garlic, ginger, and maple syrup and stir together so everything is coated.
4. Scoop onto the baking sheet and spread out so the vegetables are mostly in a single layer.
5. Roast for 25 – 35 minutes, depending on how thick the vegetables are. Test to make sure the largest pieces can be pierced with a fork easily.
6. Remove from oven and sprinkle with some finishing salt and serve.
Roasted Pork Chops with Ginger Serves 3
3 pork chops
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp black pepper
½ Tbs (7 mL) olive oil
7 sprigs thyme
1 clove garlic
1 Tbs fresh ginger, grated
¼ cup (60 mL) white wine
½ red onion, cut into thick wedges
¾ apple, cut into wedges
1. Preheat oven to 350º F.
2. Pat the chops dry and season with salt and pepper.
3. Add the olive oil to a pan over medium-high heat.
4. Add your chops to the pan and sauté
3 minutes, turn and sauté 3 minutes more.
5. Add the thyme, garlic, and ginger to the pan and cook 1 minute. Add the wine.
6. Coat the red onion and apple with a drizzle of olive oil and add to the pan.
7. Place the pan in the oven for 12 minutes or until the temperature reaches 155-160º F, depending on the thickness of your pork chops.
8. Serve immediately with pan juices to pour over the chops along with the red onion and apple.
Carrot Ginger Soup Serves 6-8
1 Tbs (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
½ tsp sea salt
1 kg carrots, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2½ Tbs fresh ginger, grated
1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar
6 cups (1½ L) vegetable broth
1 tsp (5 mL) maple syrup, optional Coconut cream, for garnish
1. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat.
2. Add the onions and salt and cook until softened, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes.
3. Add the carrots to the pot and cook about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Stir in the garlic and ginger and cook another minute.
5. Add the apple cider vinegar and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer 30 minutes.
Indigenous Cuisine Experience, Little Chief Restaurant, November 16 We’re very excited for this new elevated and premium 6-course Chef’s Table dinner of creative and modern Indigenous cuisine in Little Chief’s new private dining room!
Vine & Dine at SOT, November 14, 20, and 26 SOT’s cuisine is chef-driven and based on traditional Korean dishes, and prepared in a modern way for a delicious contemporary take. Join us for our very first Korean Vine & Dines!
Saddleroom Grill, November 28 We just have to come back again for another premium four course pairing meal PLUS a behind the scenes tour of the Saddledome (with free parking!), as our first evening here was so superb!
Vine & Dine at One18 Empire December 7 and 13 Everyone loves Chef Sean Cutler’s made from scratch, upscale dishes! Join us in One18 Empire’s private dining room for six pairing courses. For only 20 people each night.
Vine & Dine at Osteria Chef’s Table, December 11 and 19 We’re coming for our first Vine & Dine evenings at Osteria Chef’s
6. Let cool slightly and transfer to a blender. Blend until smooth. You can also use a hand immersion blender to blend until smooth. If your soup is too thick, add a little water.
7. If you would like a little sweetness, add the maple syrup. Serve with a drizzle of coconut cream, if desired.
This is a great item to have on hand in the freezer for a quick meal on a cool fall evening. Serve with a sandwich and side salad.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Table! We have two indulgent pairing evenings of premium Italian cuisine from Chef Michele!
Christmas in Italy at Bonterra Trattoria December 9 Our annual Fine & Dine Christmas in Italy at Bonterra sells out every year, and we’re coming back again for another outstanding evening.
New events are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca as these evenings can (and do!) sell out quickly! Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and to be included in our bi-monthly updates. We try to cater for all allergies.
Liquid Gold, Italian Style!
Alberta’s Leading Olive Oil Brand Will Transform Your Food and Family’s Health this Holiday Season
If there’s one thing Albertans understand it’s oil. We know that not all oil is equal. We lead the world in knowledge and cuttingedge technology to produce the best oil and gas for our global customers. But our expertise is not only true for the oil that powers the world economy, it’s also true for the other liquid gold Albertans use every day in preparing our food. This holiday season, one Alberta family is championing Alberta’s brand for excellence by proudly raising the standard for the oil we use to feed and take care of ourselves and our families.
If you’re like most people, you probably don’t pay too much attention to the oil you use in food preparation. Sure, you may try and balance price and “quality”, but most people don’t really understand how consuming low-quality oil in your food not only diminishes the quality of the experience of the food we eat, but it can also be dangerous for your health.
Today, people want certainty of their food’s nutrition and taste profiles; they want to feel connected to the people in their community where they source their food and ingredients. That’s where Alberta’s Terrigno family comes in. Since 1878, long before future generations of his family immigrated to Alberta, Pietro Terrigno’s
humble olive oil beginnings grew into a family tradition of passion and vision to perfect the olive oil production process, and for good reason.
Olive oil is probably the most popular and talked about oil in food preparation. Yet, most of the mass-produced olive oil on the supermarket shelves suffers from the same degrading production process, regardless of the brand label and the region. Oil molecules oxidize quickly when exposed to light and air. For the vast majority of mass-produced olive oils, by the time they are pasteurized and bottled they are already rancid; and this is before they are even shipped.
Often deodorizers are added to these oils to mask the rancid odour and flavour of the olive oil. Rancid oil that is deodorized not only lowers the flavour profile, but because it is oxidized, it increases the free radicals in your blood, contributing to chronic inflammation and disease. Once bottled they are shipped and often sit under the bright and degrading lights of supermarket shelves for weeks or months. This is the antithesis of “fresh”.
The Terrigno family’s pure, raw olive oil is bottled fresh at the source from their groves in Italy. It is bottled in small batches, is not heated and therefore is not oxidized, before
it is privately shipped to order, direct from Italy to Alberta families, arriving at your table in a matter of mere weeks.
This Christmas, the Terrigno family is inviting Alberta’s families to experience their Inaugural Vintage. The Terrigno premium olive oil gift pack retails for only $75, and includes 1 litre of premium Terrigno olive oil, plus a reusable ceramic bottle. This exclusive opportunity to enhance your family’s meals with flavour and wellness is available to you at Lina’s Market, the Italian Street Market, and at www.terrigno.it.
2024 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
WOOLLY RHINO SMOKED PEPPER
From Thorsby in Central Alberta, Woolly Rhino sources high quality peppercorns and using special techniques to regulate humidity and temperature, they cold smoke them in small batches. They select premium hardwoods such as Canadian Sugar Maple, Applewood, and Oak from bourbon barrels to give different flavours, and are offered as black peppercorns or a blend of black, white, green, and red, in reusable spice grinders or resealable bags. woollyrhinopepper.com
NINJA LUXE CAFÉ PREMIER SERIES
Are you an espresso lover? Drip coffee or cold brew? Then put it out to the universe (or Santa!) that you deserve one of these rather premium intelligent Café Premier machines from Ninja. Technology rules here – there are 25 grind settings, and the built-in scales take all the guesswork out of how much you need. Then there are four programs for steaming and whisking for the perfect froth and foam. And when you thought it couldn’t get any better? Wait until you try the cold press for your espresso martini! Around $700, ninjakitchen.ca
T-FAL INFRARED AIR FRYER
We’ve trialled lots of air fryers over the years but not one yet that doesn’t need preheating or warming up, and along comes this gem from T-fal that heats up to 750º F in 45 seconds! With a deceptively small countertop footprint, it has a large 6 litre capacity and a specially designed basket that means there’s no need to shake. It broils, toasts, roasts, bakes, and reheats, and we love the extra crispy results from the direct heat infrared element. It’s a winner. $170-190
HARUYUKI GOMA SANTOKU KNIFE 180 MM
Does the cook in your life use a Japanese knife? If not, the Santoku is where to start the love affair! The name translates to ‘three virtues’, chosen advisedly, as it’s ideal for slicing, dicing and mincing. With a hammered VG10 stainless steel blade and durable, western Pakkawood handle, the Santoku is nicely balanced and feels comfortable in your hand. An impressive knife and at an impressive price! $185, knifewear.com
CHIBA QUIRELOIS JAPANESE MANDOLINE SLICER
We really enjoyed trialling this mandoline from Knifewear. We wanted to see if it lived up to its name – Quirelois in Japanese means ‘OMG it is shaaarrp’ and yep, we can vouch for that (fortunately Knifewear sell cut-resistant safety gloves too!). It’s really versatile: the blade is adjustable up to 3 mm, and it comes with 1 mm and 2.5 mm spacing serrated blades too. To keep your kitchen colour-coordinated, choose Sand Beige, Magenta, or All Black. $68 knifewear.com
EDNA’S NON-ALCOHOLIC COCKTAILS
Only three years old, Vancouver-based Edna’s non-alcoholic cocktails have won an impressive amount of awards and are now easily available in our province – and they’re really well done! Using shrubs, extracts, and oils to create their five flavours: Mojito, Collins, Mule, Paloma, and Mezcalita, they’re as delicious neat on ice for those not partaking as they are with your favourite spirit added, as they suggest. That sounds like a win-win to us!
355 mL around $16-17 4-packs, ednascocktails.com
DRINKS
BAILEY’S BIRTHDAY CAKE IRISH CREAM, IRELAND
Probably all “just a splash” in my coffee drinkers are familiar with the great taste and rich addition a little Bailey’s Irish Cream adds to those weekend mornings by the fireside or on the sidelines at the rink. New this year is Birthday Cake Baileys, a lot of similarity to the classic flavour, but tasting very much like a classic white birthday cake or Timbit. Sprinkles and icing included. Sure “today” might not be your birthday, but maybe you need a little present anyways.
CSPC 108178 $35-38
We discovered Chai Spice at Taste of Calgary, and we're very happy to be acquainted! Even more perfect now the weather’s cooling down, these blends of black tea with different aromatic spices (think cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, and peppercorns) in their beautiful packs are warming and very tasty. Choose one of four flavours or caffeine-free turmeric chai, or opt for the bundle with all five packs and a stainlesssteel strainer too, and add milk and sugar to taste. Chai latte anyone? 125 g, from $8 chaispice.ca
DOM PERIGNON BRUT VINTAGE 2013
Dom Perignon is only made as a vintage champagne, and only made in the most exceptional of years. After a cool and wet winter and spring, 2013 was the hottest and driest on record in the region, creating a beautifully balanced wine with a creamy texture and flavours of orange blossom, yellow plum, and apricots, with a little mint – and it’s in our market now. This year, the bottle comes with a gift! Look for a boxed pack of two Dom Perignon glasses near to the bottles, available in 297 liquor stores across Alberta! CSPC 280461 around $360
GUILT FREE “LOCAL” WINE
Now that British Columbia and Alberta have resolved their trade dispute regarding direct to consumer (DTC) or ordering from a BC winery’s website and shipping to Alberta, you can reach out to your favourite next-door winery - guilt free. Sign up for those Naramata, Similkameen - or any other BC wine appellation wine clubs to get your hands on those special releases, hard to find back vintages, or rare bottles. Of course, you can also just get your paws on a pinot you loved, or a favourite rosé. With limited production recently, it might be your best way to get BC wine. Virtually every BC winery will ship directly, but we’d recommend focusing your online and out of province shopping to the wineries that we don’t see on our retail shelves. Many wineries will have a handful of wines in Alberta, but most will have a far more expansive selection at the farm gate.
CHAI
WINE CRYSTAL ABSTRACT ART
Do you remember last November’s stunning cover with the abstract art photograph? It was the first time we hadn’t shown food or drink on our cover, and we felt it was a bit risky but we loved it – and it turned out that everyone else did too as we had great feedback! Dr. Robert Berdan is in Calgary and his photograph was of wine crystals by polarized light microscopy magnified 100 times. Check out hundreds of his outstanding wine crystal images at canadiannaturephotographer.com
THE GIFT OF SCOTCH WHISKY
For the whisky lovers in your life, a membership to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) is a unique and welcome gift! Now 40 years old, SMWS is not a Scotch-of-the-Month club, but a worldwide camaraderie of whisky lovers who know their drams taste better when shared. Enjoy special bottles, tastings, Unfiltered online magazine, access to Members' Rooms, and more. See smws.ca
READ ALBERTA SUBSCRIPTION PROGRAM
We’re guessing that you enjoy magazines as you’re reading this, but did you know you can get two subscriptions for the price of one with Read Alberta’s subscription promotion? Just choose any two from the 25 Alberta magazines participating and they’ll arrange to have them delivered to you or whoever you’re gifting them to (or one to each of you!) and cover 50 percent of the total cost. Of course, we hope you’ll choose Culinaire as one of them! albertamagazines.com
VINE & DINE
We’re also guessing, as you’re reading Culinaire, that you enjoy food and drink – and maybe both together. Maybe learning about them too! Our Vine & Dine pairing dinners are delicious, sociable, and a little educational too, and hosted in restaurants all over Calgary and surrounding areas, many times a month, every month, with different chefs, different cuisines, and at different prices – there’s something for every appetite at vineanddine.ca
EXPERIENCES
BREWERY AND DISTILLERY TOURS
For us, the best presents are ones we don’t have to dust, so a tour of our local breweries or distilleries would be an ideal present! Canadian Craft Tours offer a guided Brewery Tour with custom pickups and drop offs in both Edmonton and Calgary, canadiancrafttours.ca; YYC Tours offer a Calgary Distillery Tour, yyctours.ca, and Edmonton Brewery Tours offer a ‘Spirit of Edmonton Distillery Tour’, edmontonbrewerytours.com
BOOKS
HANDCRAFTED CAREERS
Craft beverages are here to stay and likely you know at least one or two people within a few degrees of separation who work with a craft brewery, winery, or distillery. Here, things are specifically about craft breweries and its very “American” too, but an excellent read and maybe even a first step or two for those thinking a career in beverages is for them. Some people like getting their feet wet at work, and coming home from work smelling like a brewery isn’t a bad thing anymore! UC Press, $38
ONE BAKE TWO WAYS
Whether you're a plant-based baker or experimenting with vegan options, One Bake Two Ways has fifty delicious bakes, each with a plant-based option, and all wrapped up in one beautiful book! None of your vegan guests will have to miss out this holiday season! From Victoria Sponge to spiced Linzer cookies, Great British Bake-Off finalist, Ruby Bhogal, has crafted the perfect holiday baking book that will make your house smell delicious and your guests come back for more. Interlink Books, $47
SAUCE UP YOUR BOARDS
Planning on some holiday entertaining or even some big events or gatherings throughout the year? This may be the guide you needed – or didn’t know you might need. Sauce up your Boards has tons of recipes for all the “little things” that make a board get a little exciting. It is also that handy little guide that might get you thinking about punches of flavours before settling on the cheese, meats or other items you usually pick. Gibbs Smith, $37
THE BACON, BUTTER, BOURBON & CHOCOLATE COOKBOOK
Are you a fan of The Great Canadian Baking Show too? Then Chef Bruno Feldeisen will need no introduction, nor will his second book - with just four chapters, each centred on one of his (and probably many of ours too!) favourite ingredients. Just reading the names of the recipes will have your mouth watering: Warm Bacon, Smoked Oyster, and Chive Scones; Gooey Brown Butter Lemon Cookies; BBQ Bourbon Edamame… honestly I’d buy this book just for the first chapter! Whitecap, $35
EASY WEEKNIGHT DINNERS
If you’re searching for the perfect gift for that always-on-the-go friend or family member, we have good news for you – we just got our hands on Emily Weinstein’s Easy Weeknight Dinners cookbook! This book is a game-changer for anyone with limited time and an empty stomach, simply flip through and find a delicious, easy meal in no time. Featuring recipes like kimchi fried rice and sheet-pan miso-honey chicken, this New York Times cookbook will be a treasured gift. Ten Speed Press, $48
GOOD LOOKIN’ COOKIN’
A Year of Meals: a lifetime of Family, Friends, and Food. Business partners, best friends, and sisters, Dolly Parton and Rachel Parton George both enjoy cooking and hosting dinners. In Good Lookin’ Cookin’ they’ve created twelve multicourse meals of mostly American classic dishes, themed for each month, and designed for you to be able to spend time with your guests at the table. Filled with crisp, glossy photos of the dishes, there’s no shortage of photos of the authors too! Ten Speed Press, $48
ALBERTA CARES PACKAGES
This year, Alberta Food Tours are offering four Alberta Cares packages, and our favourite for gifting is the Alberta Chocolate Artisans Holiday Collection. Inside the red jute bag are ten chocolate bars, handmade by Alberta artisan chocolatiers: Delavoye, Chocolate Escapade, and Colleen's from Edmonton; ShawZ, Goldie, Master Chocolate, and The Chocolate Lab, from Calgary; Compass from St. Albert; Jacek from Sherwood Park, and Canmore’s Le Chocolatier. It’s the ultimate treat for that special person, and part of the proceeds go to the Food Water Wellness Foundation too. $120, albertafoodtours.ca
JOLENE’S TEA COLLECTION GIFT BOX
STOCKING STUFFEERS
The perfect gift for the tea lovers in your life, Jolene’s Tea House in Banff has a new Tea Collection Gift box. Each box includes five individually wrapped tea bags of each of three flavours of Jolene’s organic and hand-blended teas: Creamy Earl Grey, Wild Blueberry Rooibos, and Alpine Peppermint, all presented in a very attractive box, every bit of which is 100 percent biodegradable. Put the kettle on! $25, jolenesteahouse.com
7 SUMMIT SNACKS
Named for the tallest mountain peaks on each of the seven continents, Edmonton’s 7 Summit Snacks make superfood chocolate bars for hikers, bikers, skiers, and adventurers, but we love the indulgent flavours and the ethically sourced ingredients. We’re choosing between the dark chocolate ‘Everest’ with Himalayan salt and goji berries, and ‘Aconcagua’ with golden berries and cocoa nibs, or the milk chocolate ‘Denali’ with peanut butter and jam! sevensummitssnacks.com
TREATS
RX BAR STRAWBERRY
Some protein bars contain more added sugar than doughnuts, so we’re big fans of RX Bars, with their straightforward no B.S approach and simple ingredients. Now they’ve released a new Strawberry flavour, made with just 3 egg whites, 6 almonds, 4 cashews and 2 dates in each bar, plus real strawberries! Have to say, they’re a bit moreish… 52 g 12-pack $28, rxbar.ca
CARAMELS
We discovered Caramel by Cali at Taste of Edmonton, and in the interests of thorough research, with six flavours to choose from, we spent quite some time at their booth trying them all! Made with quality butter, sugar, cream, and corn syrup, the caramels are crafted in small batches on demand, so they’re always fresh but we suspect they’ll be long gone before the Best Before date! 227 g (approx. 22 caramels) $14, caramelbycali.com
theBeyondBuzz:
BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER
BY LUCY HAINES
Zero-proof beverages are here to stay
JoAnne Pearce woke up one morning a few years ago and knew she was done with alcohol. “I quit drinking on a whim,” she says. “But I still wanted to have something good to drink at happy hour.”
She couldn’t find what she wanted, so she headed to her kitchen and began to experiment, pulling ingredients out of the cupboard and seeing what she could create. “I started boiling everything in the house and turning it into simple syrup,” she says. “I didn’t know much about bartending but did become an expert at crafting flavour without alcohol.” She began posting the recipes online, earning the nickname “the
potions witch,” she says with a laugh. “Now it’s my preferred title.”
One thing led to another, and now she’s the co-owner with Andrew Paul and Keenan Pascal of Spilt, Edmonton’s first zero-proof cocktail bar. The cozy Jasper Avenue space, which seats just 12, offers catering, classes and menu consultation for other bars and restaurants.
And it serves up a rotating list of creative alcohol-free cocktails to customers who avoid alcohol for reasons ranging from religion to health and beyond.
While Spilt is the first of its kind in Edmonton, it’s part of a growing international trend toward alcohol-free
living. In 2023, according to NielsenIQ, non-alcoholic beer, wine and spirits sales in the US reached $510 million US, up $121 million from 2022. Keeping in mind our population differences, Canadian statistics are similar, according to NielsenIQ: $199 million total sales between June 2023 and June 2024, a 24 percent increase compared to the previous year.
The co-owner of the Vine Arts Wine and Spirits shops in Calgary and Edmonton, Jesse Willis has seen that skyrocketing demand firsthand. “When we first opened Vine Arts in Calgary 12 years ago, there were almost no options for quality
Shop Now
Looking for zero-proof drinks and you’re too lazy or busy to make your own?
Jesse Willis has a few ready-made suggestions.
“On the wine side, some of my favourites include Leitz, Noughty, Sovi and Zeno. I also think there are some great non-alcoholic cocktails, including locally made gems like Wildfolk, along with the Phony Negroni from St. Agrestris in Brooklyn, New York. I also find the Ghia Aperitivo canned cocktails really interesting.”
“Lastly the Bibi Spritz was my first discovery and still one of my favourites - if you serve it in a large wine glass filled with ice and an orange wheel, it delivers a great experience that feels like a classic cocktail.”
Santé Dry Bottle Shop in Calgary offers online shopping 24 hours a day/seven days a week, or stop by the booth at the Crossroads Market or Greenbriar Market to shop the excellent selection in real life. drinksante.ca
non-alc drinks, and now the selection has exploded,” he says.
Back then, zero-proof customers were typically pregnant women. “But now there really is a wide breadth in terms of age and reasons to seek out non-alcoholic options,” says Willis, also co-owner of Proof Cocktail Bar and Donna Mac restaurant in Calgary, plus Fifth & Vermouth, an online cocktail supply company. “Some have stopped drinking altogether for various reasons, or others just like to mix in non-alcoholic options with their alcoholic drink of choice to moderate.”
A favourite mocktail at Spilt is the Whoops-a-daisy. Served in a coupe, it contains an elderflower and orange blossom liqueur, with lemon, tonic and non-alcoholic sparkling wine. Another favourite, Summer’s Not Over Yet, contains a house-made pear and cardamom horchata with a Thai chili and cane sugar shrub, ginger syrup and lime. “It scratches all the itches: It’s spicy, sweet and sour,” says Pearce. “Flavour is our number one goal at all times.”
Perhaps not surprising to hear then, Pearce and her team are typically inspired by culinary trends when they’re creating a new recipe. The week we spoke, they were at work creating something with pho from a nearby Vietnamese restaurant.
Salt is a key component of many Spilt drinks, layered in with other ingredients: salty ponzu is one favourite and this winter, Pearce says, watch for salted butter in a hot winter sipper.
“I’m not in the business to make 10-calorie drinks that have no flavour,” she says. “Good flavour starts in the kitchen.”
She encourages people to experiment when making and ordering mocktails, and
step out beyond, say, asking for a boozefree old-fashioned. “I don’t think we have to copy the same old classic cocktails but without alcohol. Those drinks, frankly, are disappointing when they’re non-alcoholic. The only thing that tastes like alcohol is alcohol, and we can’t do that,” she says. But we can come up with new things and new flavours. Where mocktails get truly delightful is when they start in the kitchen and combine unusual flavours into something new.”
That’s certainly a reason why the category is growing. People create cool stuff to drink, and drinkers don’t feel punished for making zero-proof choices. “Someone isn’t just stuck with a soda water anymore,” Willis says. “The zeroproof trend is here to stay.”
Drink this!
Check out the following zero-proof drinks from top bars in Calgary and Edmonton
The Pick Me Up - Espresso, white chocolate, chipotle and chai cream, tonka bean. At Proof in Calgary.
Mocktail No. 3 - Sobreo Non-Alcoholic Spirit, juniper, lacto-fermented orange, lemon, gochugaru. At Shelter Cocktail Bar in Calgary.
Jackie Rose - Undone Whisky, blueberry, pomegranate, orange blossom and lime. From the Temperance Cocktails list at Clementine in Edmonton.
Pear Lavender Fizz - Pear, lavender, oolong tea, simple syrup, lemon, tonic and soda. From Fu’s Repair Shop, Edmonton.
Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits.
November Spirits
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
OK. We’ll admit it, we don’t know what the weather is going to be like this November. Will it be a wet and mucky November, or will we all be out and about enjoying warmish days and brisk evenings? Or -shudder- will it be an early blast of the white
Ardbeg Spectacular
A limited-edition release for Ardbeg Day 2024, this is a first for the Islay distillery – it’s matured in rare port casks. Perhaps Bull Lumsden, head of distilling and whisky creation for Ardbeg, sums it up best: “Totally weird and absolutely spectacular. This is a freaky whisky!" Given the port casks, of course it has sweet characteristics - and given that it’s Ardbeg from Islay, of course it’s smoky - but there’s so much more to discover… lavender, apple, caramel, mint…
CSPC 105255 $155-180
Woodinville Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Brand new to Alberta, this Woodinville Bourbon comes from… yes, you guessed it, Woodinville in Washington! 72 percent corn and 22 percent rye give a sweet and spicy nose, with vanilla, cocoa nibs, and treacle toffee flavours on the palate coming from the extra-heavily charred barrels. At 90 proof it doesn’t need any dilution, but just a drop or two of water really brings out the sweet notes.
CSPC 108304 around $74
stuff that has us hunkering indoors? This month, we covered our bases, mostly with soul-warming brown spirits like whisky and bourbon, but also tequila to get you thinking about the beach or patio, and a fun, spicy, vodka to jazz up a weekend or bonfire.
Mi Campo Reposado Tequila
Another new to Alberta product is Mi Campo (My Field), a new take on the art of tequila making. The seven-year-old Blue Weber Agave leaves are roasted and then gently squeezed to release the natural honey flavours, then doubledistilled and aged in Napa Valley pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon barrels to give a really smooth banana, chocolate, and pepper finish – perfect for your favourite tequila cocktail!
CSPC 822335 $38-40
Lochlea “Our Barley” Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Scotland
The “Grains to Glass” movement is one that we definitely welcome as if you have the very best base ingredients – it does show in the final product. Humming along nicely at cask strength, with a mix of barrel in the maturation, Our Barley (from their own farms), highlights bartlett pears, orange citrus peel notes, and clean cereal expressions. Full and spicy on the finish, this is best neat.
CSPC 874957 $75-80
Hartfield & Co. Pre-Prohibition Style Bourbon
The only distillery in present-day Bourbon County, Hartfield & Co focus on small batch (just 1183 bottles of this one!) pre-prohibition style, which means a high malted barley mashbill (no wheat included), single pass distilling, and aging in small barrels. It’s very soft - even at 100 proof - mouth-coating, creamy, smoky and a little sweet, and dangerously easy to drink! Only available in Kentucky and Alberta.
CSPC 817454 $90-100
Polar Ice Cinnamon Sugar
Flavoured Vodka, Canada
Oh my! A collaboration of sorts with Beaver Tails – the well-known (at least in parts of Canada) treat, and a smooth, smooth Polar Ice Vodka. Coming across on the nose as classic drive through, doughnut style pastry with a little powdered sugar and cinnamon, it zings on the palate with plenty of cinnamon, but not too much, and a mild blast of sweetness. A neat holiday or winter treat for sure! CSPC 110655 $34-37
Wilfred’s and Dr. Zero are hand crafted, small producers who give all their attention to a single product.
They do not create anything other than providing the best ingredients for an elevated experience. Will have you questioning if it really is alcohol free!
A Taste of Asia
BY TOM FIRTH
We e always mean to approach drinks from parts of Asia more often, and we really want to cover as much as we can when we do. So, we have a few sakes to share, a plum umeshu, and some spirits to recommend. In some ways, some of these bottles from South Korea and Japan seem to discourage the neophyte or even western consumers who may feel that they don’t know quite enough about these bottles to understand them, find the “best” – or
even how to serve them. To that, I’d clearly say that they are meant to be enjoyed! If you are just getting started, enjoying these at room temperature or slightly chilled is a good place to start, but even a quick internet search like, “how should I serve Junmai Daiginjo sake?” will answer any questions. There may be some etiquette for enjoying some of these beverages in a more formal setting, but at home, just focus on the liquid in the glass.
Shin Whisky Umeshu, Japan
A continually stunning and delicious beverage that deserves a taste or two. A liqueur made with a sochu base, sweetened with Japanese plums and finished with whisky. Citrusy and bright on the palate with subdued alcohol notes and a bit of woodsy character from the whiskey. At about 15 percent ABV it’s a fine sipper- not too sweet either, but also great in cocktails and in dishes that might benefit from the plum notes. A gem.
CSPC +824566 About $30 (500 mL)
Lee Gang Ju Pear Ginger Rice Spirit, South Korea
Wildly “exotic” on the nose with a lifted and dynamic set of aromas shifting from spice box, herb, and floral tones along with clean pear and mild apple notes. A poor comparison to be sure, but it does evoke a bit of an “apple crumble” profile to a western palate. Silky on the palate with some of that rice spirit starchiness but also a good expression of those promised flavours. At 25 percent ABV it’s a good sipper for those fall or winter days –and might add that “je ne sais quoi” in my next crumble.
CSPC 863465 $31-35 (375 mL)
Hwayo X. Premium Rice Whisky, South Korea
A South Korean rice whisky, but also known by the more traditional name of soju (a spirit made historically from rice, but also barley, wheat and other ingredients). Hwayo’s oak aged bottle is a premium, but also modern approach aged in bourbon
and white oak showing a very whisky like aroma with vanilla and barrel spice, more tropical fruit than expected, and a lengthy evolving finish. At 41 percent, it’s approachable to most whisky drinkers, but can handle a drop or two of water – but you’d miss out on the finer characteristics of this complete spirit.
CSPC 859987 $140-145 (500 mL)
Okunomatsu “Navy Label” Junmai Daiginjo Sake, Japan
A beautiful bottle of sake that, as a Junmai Daiginjo, has about half of the outer husk of the rice grain polished away yielding a slightly spicy sake with stunning floral and tropical notes. On the palate, quite creamy and with a little extra body lending a fuller mouthfeel too. A pleasing sipper that can handle a little chilling but shows most of its nuance around a cool room temperature.
CSPC 898967 $44-47
Miyasaka Miyama Nishiki Junmai Ginjo Sake, Japan
Ginjo sake is milled to about 60 percent of the grain’s original size but still produced to a very high standard. Here, richly aromatic with peach and nectarine, even a little bit of a strawberry/vanilla character. Lively and bright on the palate too with a slight prominence to the alcohol, so a light chilling is good here, but from start to finish, clean and mouthfilling, that would be a gem on the table with classic foods like sushi or sashimi or grilled fish.
CSPC 896946 $44-46
Nugan Estate is dedicated to producing premium wines from the best regions of Australia
VISION: Our family history spans three generations and over 80 years of determination and passion to provide the highest quality. From our humble beginnings when Alfredo Nugan emigrated from Spain in 1940 to start our family business, each generation has grown and nurtured the business to greater success.
Nugan Estate Single Vineyard Collection:
Dedicated to showcasing the best single varietals from Australia’s finest wine growing regions, each wine reflects its unique varietal and regional characteristics.
Zinfandel 2022 (ABA Best in Class 91 points) A rich, full flavoured palate of black plum and cherry.
Durif 2019 (ABA Judges Selection 89 points) Rich and intense flavours of black cherry, plum pudding and dark chocolate.
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2022 (ABA Judges Selection 90 points)
Aromas of blue and black fruits. A rich, full flavoured palate of black plum and cherry. www.nuganestate.com.au @nuganestate NuganEstate
MAKING THE CASE for getting out of a rut
By TOM FIRTH
I’ve been up to my eyeballs in bottles recently. We’ve recently published all the results from our 2024 edition of our Alberta Beverage Awards (check them out online if you didn’t see the magazine on stands), where tasting and tasting and tasting more is the order of the day, and we’ve also seen a number of great wineries putting Calgary (and Edmonton) back on the tour circuit.
So finding great wine hasn’t been too hard, but instead this month, in what is typically our spice or international issue, I wanted to showcase and share some gems. Some from less common countries, a few lesser known grapes, and not to worry, a few bottles that aren’t that hard to find, but are standouts for their value or expressions.
I hope you enjoy these good, interesting wines that are remarkable in some way and a pleasure to drink.
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Les Fleurs du Mal Rosé, Cévennes France
A very light, and very delicate rosé yet deeply perfumed with floral characters and mild herbal notes. Fruits are more akin to strawberry, cranberry and orange, which make for a clean, rather citrusy approach. There is some residual sugar here, so it is off dry, but this is wonderfully refreshing and an easy glass to enjoy – if you close your eyes, you might be fooled that it is still summer! Try matching with lighter, even salty appetizers, or grilled poultry.
CSPC 360073 About $18-20
Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
Weingut Steininger 2022 Grüner
Veltliner, Langenlois, Austria
Grüner is so fantastic; one, it just makes excellent wine, two, it’s unique in its expression, and finally, it’s one of the few wines we see here from Austria. The nose here is rife with apples, limestone, white pepper, and lime wedges, and on the palate zesty and dry, very crisp, lean, and mineral driven. Love it!
CSPC 888102 $42-44
Finca Los Primos 2023 Malbec
San Rafael, Argentina
A blend of fruit from both San Rafael and Mendoza, but alllll malbec at a heck of a price. Deep, dark plummy fruits with a bit of blueberry jelly and brambly aromas too. In the mouth, full bore tannins with the fruit to back it up and a bit of spice and bitter chocolate at the finish. A solid bottle to keep around for when brisket or large scale grilling is in the cards.
CSPC 632919 $15-17
Possibly my favourite table wine blend is the one we find in the Côtes du Rhone – centred around grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre (sometimes called a GSM) where each grape brings something a little different, but each component can also make stunning wines on their own. Here, loads of spice and tannin, but also exceptionally ripe fruit tones supported by liquorice root, rich earthy tones, and a lovely finish.
CSPC 872789 $33-36
Boutinot La Côte Sauvage Cairanne
Côtes du Rhone Villages, France
MAN Family Wines 2022 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa
Absolutely chuffed to see “Free-Run Steen” on the back label, “steen” being the South African traditional name for this awesome grape. Made in a slightly more traditional style, this is packed with flavours bringing to mind honey, wool blanket, and zesty lemons too. Completely delicious, and a seriously big wine to enjoy.
CSPC 896469 $24-27
Draaiboek Onskuld 2021 Chardonnay Hemel & Aarde Ridge, South Africa
A standout bottle at a tasting crowded with great bottles, my notes for this wine enthusiastically had stars and underlining throughout. A multilayered, vibrant, and still elegant chardonnay carrying a fair bit of oak and lees, but remarkably, the fruit carries the day with ease. For those that like their chardonnays a little opulent – but wow is this one dignified too.
CSPC 883699 $57-62
Hello Someday 2023 Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley, Washington
We don’t see a lot of rosé here from Columbia Valley, but would definitely love to see more of them. Syrah is put to good use here with a slightly off-dry approach, but abundant cherry fruits and also a touch of orange marmalade on the nose, with just a wee bit of green apple. Nicely balanced on the palate too, it is a pleasure to enjoy on its own but would be a good match for slightly spicy dishes with some protein too.
CSPC 108725 $25-30
Aberdeen Angus the Bull 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Victoria, Australia
JoieFarm 2023 Rosé, Okanagan Valley
A consistent performer at the Alberta Beverage Awards, what the judges love is what I love about it. Bright, classic cabernet expressions with cedar, cherry, and tobacco aromas, and a fairly subtle bell pepper undercurrent. Big, chewy tannins and excellent flavour balance make for a fine glass of wine – with… you guessed it – beef, if you can.
CSPC 713074 $24-26
Lawson’s Dry Hills 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Personally, I am enjoying a little bit of a renewed love of sauvignon blanc. Its “excesses” have softened somewhat and more about the grape itself is really shining. Lots of gooseberry and lime on the nose with a generous olive and jalapeño structure show up here along with all those requisite acids. A great glass of wine, pair with zesty, citrusy dishes like seafoods or lighter fare.
CSPC 849590 $21-25
Morgenster 2021 Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch, South Africa
Honestly, a wine so good that once I had tried it, I went out, made some calls, and ordered a case to have around the house for personal enjoyment and sharing with wine savvy friends. A fine blend of traditional approaches to the grape yet with an appreciation of modern tastes and purity of fruit too. Absolutely spectacular with beef, and a solid pairing with pizza, cheese boards, or just on its own.
A stunner.
CSPC 817363 $29-34
British Columbia
A regular bottle on the circuit of great rosé to enjoy whenever the opportunity is nigh, JoieFarm delivers – year after year. Love this wine. Fairly dark in the glass with intense, brambly fruits, loads of floral tones, and a full flavoured, balance palate. A great summer sipper, but also a cool weather gem that is a fine match with pork, poultry, and charcuterie.
CSPC 731772 $34-38
The Fledge & Co. 2020 Veld Versnit Stellenbosch, South Africa
Another wild blend to get the palate excited. Cinsault with 20 percent cabernet franc and 10 percent alicante bouschet. All coming together in a wine that is slightly smoky and tarry with the blackest of fruits and loamy earth. Multifaceted for sure, with excellent balance of fruit and earth. I’d love to enjoy this with all manner of dishes, but I think a brisket or roast would be the way to go.
CSPC 885202 $35-38
LASVino Albino
A very different approach for pinot noir. Technically a white wine from red grapes, it still could bear the name rosé, but it certainly isn’t a blush, pink, or off-dry bottle. Think of this as a lean, steely, and excellent white wine from pinot noir and you’ll find it’s zesty and tight, with mild orange and strawberry notes, crisp acids, and a beautiful length on the palate. Entirely delicious! Versatile at the table, I’d give the nod to a pairing with seafood, or something with a creamy sauce.
CSPC 883253 $53-55
...with Chevonne Miller-Centini
Chevonne Miller-Centini grew up on a cattle ranch outside of Lacombe. A country girl at heart, she developed her love of food from her mother. “My mom was like Martha Stewart before there was Martha. She was growing everything, making everything, and knew how to do so many things. We had a really spectacular garden,” she explains.
At 17, she moved away from Alberta to study journalism at Concordia University in Montreal, and after graduating, began her career in publishing, working on everything from medical journals to fashion magazines. Her stint in Montreal eventually led her to Latini, a restaurant led by charming chef, Fabio Centini. “He'd been involved with that since 1979. He started in restaurants very young, polishing glasses in banquet halls as a boy and then helping in the kitchen,” she says. “Latini opened in ’79, and Fabio quickly moved into the top role. I was quite intrigued by this because it was an intimidating big-city restaurant with an extensive wine list and an imposing doorman,” she adds.
When Miller-Centini developed a personal publishing interest in Latini, she decided she had to meet Fabio. “An afternoon drink session turned into
dinner. And what do you know, we had a lot in common - it was like a lightning bolt,” she says.
During a trip back to Alberta, while visiting Miller-Centini’s parents, the couple began flirting with the idea of moving back to Calgary. “Montreal was just achingly beautiful - the look of Montreal, the feel of Montreal, the restaurants, the buildings, the history; I was all in when I moved. The reality was that it was probably a lot harder than I anticipated because my French was never Quebec French,” she says. But it was her boyfriend Fabio who ultimately convinced her to make the move to Calgary.
After living in Calgary for a few years, the couple caught wind of a restaurant space for sale on Eighth Avenue SW. With Fabio’s knack for cooking and Miller-Centini’s business acumen, the unstoppable team opened their restaurant, Centini, in May 2001. Staying strong for 19 years, unfortunately, like so many other restaurants, Centini was impacted by the economic effects of COVID-19 in 2020, forcing them to adapt and rethink their strategy. Drawing on her business background and creative flair, Miller-Centini launched a new project, Centini Foods.
BY QUINN CURTIS AND LINDA GARSON
PHOTO BY DONG KIM
“I had to conjure up a mindset of saying, ‘What would I do if I wasn’t afraid?’ So we did things very quickly. We built an online store and then explored the idea of producing sauces. We were closed as a restaurant, but all the servers came back and went into production making pasta sauce with me,” she says. By early January, Miller-Centini was shipping a tremendous amount of high-quality Tomato Rose, Puttanesca, and Arabia pasta sauces, and they haven’t looked back since. So, with access to some of the finest wines available, what bottle is MillerCentini saving for a special occasion?
“What kept coming to my mind was this bottle that just arrived in Calgary, brought from Montreal. It’s a bottle of homemade Italian white wine made by my late brother-in-law.” In 2011, Fabio’s twin sister Vicki and her husband Lou Parissi were killed in a tragic car accident, but their cellar remains intact at the family home, still containing wine made by her late brother-in-law.
“That wine has aged, and it’s gone from light yellow to this beautiful amber colour. I’m told it’s drinking really well,” she says. “When you think back over a 25-year period, I can’t help but reflect on the losses along the way, of some of the most important people in my life. To have the essence of an individual in a bottle of homemade wine takes me back to the mid-nineties when I started dating Fabio and was introduced toand warned about - the power of this homemade wine, because who knows what the alcohol content is? I thought it was a beautiful wine. To be able to revisit that will take me back to a happier time when we had all our family around us. Maybe at a family holiday we'll open it up and, toast them.”
