10. Mpro February2017

▲ Climbing ▲ Mountaineering ▲ Guiding ▲ Exploration

WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM FEBRUARY 2017

school of adventure Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Splitboard Lofoten

Reviewed: Insulation, luggage, NEW KIT and more

PLUS ■ Alison Levine ■ Martin Moran ■ Tamara Lunger

Contributors Pete Coombs was one of the first British snowboard instructors. His film on splitboarding in Iceland ‘The First Day of Summer’ was a finalist at the 2016 Banff Mountain Film Festival.

Alison Levine served as team captain of the first American Women’s Everest Expedition, and has completed the Adventure Grand Slam. www.alisonlevine.com

Welcome We seem to have gone a little interview crazy in this issue, featuring National Geographic Adventurer of the Year - Pasang Lhamu Sherpa - Alison Levine and Tamara Lunger. There’s also a fascinating piece from the Mountain Heritage Trust about a pioneer of climbing and outdoors education, Mabel Barker.

For the cynics, any gender bias here is a matter of coincidence: These are climbers and mountaineers, first and foremost.

Elsewhere, we explore Lofoten by Splitboard and visit the Highlands and Islands School of Adventure Studies, return to Ben Nevis for another instalment of the John Muir Trust’s Ranger’s Dairy, chat gear and guiding with Martin Moran, and hear from a newcomer to Alpinism about his experience with Action Outdoors. To round things out, mountain leaders Dan and Lucy test winter insulation, expedition luggage and a few products new to market… and for a wry tale from bothy bum and mountain playwright John Burns, it’s best to start at the back.

Joan McFadden has been writing for over 20 years. Born in Skye and brought up in the Highlands, she still lives in Scotland and has a huge passion for the wonderful range of activities there.

John Burns is an actor and writer who has spend over forty years climbing and walking in the mountains of Scotland www.johndburns.wordpress.com

Dan Aspel is the gear editor for Mountain Pro, a journalist and summer ML with a particular passion for scrambling, bivvying and via ferrata.

Chantelle Kelly is our editorial assistant without whom interviews, book reviews and more would not happen.

Lucy Wallace is a Winter Mountain Leader, Wildlife Guide and Award Assessor based in Scotland. She works with adult and youth groups, coaching navigation and hill walking skills, as well as leading schools’ expeditions overseas.

Nicole Reeve is responsible for the day to day running of Mountain Heritage Trust.

Based in the Lake District, Nicole is also a keen rock climber. www.mountain-heritage.org

See you on the hill,

Da vid

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David Lintern, Editor

Alison Austin is the John Muir Trust Property Manager for Ben Nevis Estate, and also a geologist, climber and mountaineer. www.johnmuirtrust.org

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 3

Contents Tamara Lunger

Alison Levine

Pasang Lhamu Sherpa

Golden Age of Mountaineering

NEWS 6 book reviews 8 An Alpine Introduction 10 MABEL BARKER 12 GUIDING LIGHT: pasang lhamu sherpa 14 Ski Touring in Lofoten 20 interview: alison levine 28 60 seconds with: tamara lunger 33 John Muir Trust Ranger’s Diary 34 the golden age of mountaineering 42 44 GEAR: INSULATION GEAR: LUGGAGE 48 TRIED AND TESTED: MARTIN MORAN 52 Tall Tales with John D Burns 54 MARTIN MORAN

the team EDITOR: David Lintern e: david.lintern@targetpublishing.com GEAR EDITOR: Dan Aspel e: dan.aspel@targetpublishing.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Chantelle Kelly e: editorial@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com SALES DIRECTOR: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 GROUP SALES MANAGER: Michael Wolstenholme e: michael.wolstenholme@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810067 SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN/PRODUCTION: Leann Boreham e: leann.boreham@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810075 MARKETING EXECUTIVE: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810091 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher. Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.

Published by Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ t: 01279 816300 f: 01279 816496 e: info@targetpublishing.com www.targetpublishing.com

44 48

Cover image Courtesy of Sherpa Adventure Gear

A simple but effective solution to labelling climbing gear Toughtags just launched a new website. We spoke to Jon Cluett about growing a small family business.

A couple of summers ago I managed to get a precious day off, and spent it as usual, climbing with a friend. In-between showers of rain and swarms of midges I noticed a ‘must have’ piece of kit on Tim’s gear. As climbers we’re all great at spotting new shiny additions to climbing racks, but this wasn’t a new karabiner, sling, belay plate or friend. It was something far more simple, but ingenious: Every piece of Tim’s gear had been tagged with a bespoke label that had his contact details on. A name, email address and a phone number (if I’m lost or dropped please return me to …). For me, and perhaps for any other climbers who cut their teeth and learnt their trade applying electrical tape of various colours to their climbing kit, this seemed brilliantly simple. I came home, bought some immediately and applied them to my kit as soon as they arrived in

including marking

the post.

Personal Protective Equipment

A couple of weeks later the small company ‘Toughtags’ was advertised

(PPE) and other

as being for sale on a climbing forum.

businesses are also

I persuaded my wife and business

using Toughtags

partner Helen that making and selling

for a variety of

Toughtags would fit well alongside

labelling purposes.

We’ve just

our mountaineering work, and so we bought the business. We’ve been making

launched our new

Toughtags ever since, all hand made

website and tried

in Scotland to bespoke orders. We

to incorporate

estimate that in the last couple of years

everything we do

we’ve made somewhere in the region of

onto the site, with a greater choice,

450,000 individual Toughtags. Business is growing and we ship Toughtags all over the world. Clients use

more photos and greater web functionality. At the end of the day

Toughtags for their personal climbing gear and we’re collecting

Toughtags are just a simple solution to a simple problem, nothing

some great stories of dropped and lost kit being returned to

more or less – but if you need bespoke, waterproof, printed labels

owners from far-flung and adventurous places. Many businesses

that work great in an outdoor environment then we think we’re

and large organisations including those who provide adventurous

about as good as it gets.

activities are now using Toughtags to make their equipment

Get yours at www.toughtags.co.uk

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The Alpine Bookshelf Once again, our team don the cat. 4 reading goggles and prepare to be dazzled.

A MOUNTAIN BEFORE BREAKFAST Published by www.munromoonwalker.com £9.99 Alan Rowan climbs mountains by night. His first book, Moonwalker, was all about his quest to climb the Munros despite a packed schedule as a sports journalist.

The only time he could find for hillwalking was after work, so he cut his teeth on the Scottish mountains after dark. His second book, A Mountain Before Breakfast, is all about the arguably greater challenge of completing Scotland’s other major hill list: the Corbetts, between 2,500 and 3,000 feet in height. Like Moonwalker, it’s a book filled with adventures, but here there is a sense that the author has served his mountain apprenticeship and is chasing a more esoteric goal. Corbetts are often wilder and can take more effort to climb, despite their lower stature. There’s a great sense of fun and irreverence in this book, and I found myself laughing out loud at some of the ridiculous situations the author finds himself in, but serious topics are examined too – accidents and death in the mountains most prominently. A Mountain Before Breakfast challenges the reader to stop making excuses, because if you want something badly enough, you’ll find time for it. Highly recommended for lovers of the Scottish hills. Alex Roddie

Wild Country Published by Vertebrate Publishing £14.95 A belated review of Mark Vallance’s autobiography, Wild Country is a genuinely fascinating read of somewhat epic scope. Mark’s outdoor career covers many decades of innovation and a ridiculous amount of exciting climbing to boot. For me, reading past the slightly privileged upbringing of the younger man wasn’t easy, but the author acknowledges his blessed beginnings and there are so many deep insights into British outdoor culture and ethics that my more trivial biases were soon swept aside. This covers his boy-to-man transformation working for BAS, changing business fortunes working on the now famous camming devices as well as the famous Peak District store Outside and the development of indoor climbing at The Foundry, as well as his stints as BMC president and work for the Peak District National Park. Vallance clearly is a highly skilled and very nuanced diplomat, and has been a huge asset to the outdoors community. What comes across most is the author’s entrepreneurial energy and drive, leavened with a firm belief in British climbing and conservation ethics. A relaxed, unpretentious and hugely enjoyable read from one of our great innovators - they really don’t make them like this anymore. David Lintern

MOSTLY MISCHIEF Published by Vertebrate Publishing £12 In the 1960s, mountaineer-turnedsailor Bill Tilman conducted several ocean voyages to Arctic and Antarctic waters with Mischief, a 45ft pilot cutter built in 1906.

These were ambitious journeys for a small boat not designed for pack ice, especially when manned by a motley crew of inexperienced sailors. There are tense moments when Mischief gets caught in an ice floe and begins taking on water. With typical understated humour, Tilman records that ‘Things below were becoming a bit damp.’ But it isn’t all about sailing. Tilman combined mountaineering and genuine exploration with his voyages. The islands they visited were harsh, glaciated places, poorly understood and sometimes unexplored, with many unclimbed peaks. This is a book of true adventure and exploration from a world on the cusp of great change, as indigenous Arctic people embraced a new way of life. There’s a sense that Tilman believed it was a last hurrah for the great days of sail – but the Mischief voyages have inspired generations of explorers since this remarkable book was first published in 1966. Mostly Mischief stands out as one of the most enjoyable books by this author. Alex Roddie

1001 Climbing Tips Published by Vertebrate Publishing £25 Winner of the Best Guidebook award at the 2016 Banff Mountain Book Festival, I had high hopes for 1001 Climbing Tips and I was not disappointed. It isn’t an instruction manual for climbing – rather it offers helpful bite-size tips for those who are already into the sport. Written by the (in?)famous Andy Kirkpatrick, he describes the book as his brain, and with over thirty years mountaineering experience, it’s a collection of invaluable insights he’s picked up along the way. The book is beautifully designed, and is written in the author’s direct but wry style. My favourite line: “There are many people who brag, bullshit and play the hero in the world of climbing. Don’t blindly trust anyone until they have proved themselves trustworthy”, oh and “Don’t get drunk on the plane, and never joke with immigration officers.” As well as climbing itself, it also offers helpful tips about guiding, making your own kit, photography and videoing, sponsorship and media, and packing your kit to go abroad. It does what it says on the tin and then some. Chantelle Kelly 8 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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GETTING STARTED

AN ALPINE

Introduction Rufus Redwood-Rowe tackled an introductory mountaineering course with Action Outdoors last summer. here he speaks to MP about the experience…

Why did you sign up for the course?

I wanted to make big plans for the summer after my A-levels, and before starting university. I wanted to do something with my close friend Tom but we spent months going through ideas, which never stuck. Eventually I stumbled across the www.website action-outdoors. co.uk and found inexpensive and adventurous holidays abroad. We decided on the intro to mountaineering course because we knew it would be fun, but also push us and enable us to learn valuable skills.

Why did you choose Action Outdoors?

The course looked exciting and varied, it was very good value for money and they handled everything including transfers,

the course looked exciting and varied, it was good value for money and they handled everything.

accommodation and food. I’d recommend them, especially to students and alpine beginners.

Can you explain what UCPA is and its concept?

UCPA is a french government-funded organisation dedicated to encouraging and engaging young people to enjoy the outdoors and meet new people. It offers a wide range of adventurous and casual sports with levels of difficulty catering for everyone.

Can you talk us through the different activities you completed?

We did rock climbing (including multi-pitch and leading), glacier trekking, ice climbing, climbing in crampons, scrambling and peak climbing.

Rock climbing was a bit of a challenge as I had only done indoor climbing before - it’s much harder, and scarier in my opinion, but a real rush. For glacier trekking I was kitted out with crampons and an ice axe and we were taught how to walk across a glacier. There were very specific techniques for what path you should take, how you should step, walk on a gentle incline and a steep slope, and what to do if you fell. All of these techniques require multiple steps, often combining the use of your crampons and ice axe to ensure your safety.

Ice climbing was a lot of fun; I’d never done it before. Easier than rock climbing in the sense that you could place your limbs wherever you felt comfortable, but harder in the sense that each time you 10 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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moved a limb you had to plant it firmly into the ice to ensure you

to lead, how to use crampons and ice axes.

could proceed up the face.

Scrambling and peak climbing was effectively the same thing, as

What was your overall impression and would you recommend

we had to scramble up the peak of the mountain. Scrambling is in

it to others?

an odd place between hiking and rock climbing, it doesn’t require a

It was incredible. A truly wonderful experience, seeing landscapes

belay partner yet you are still tied to a partner for added safety.

above the clouds – even above some planes even! Saying that, it was also a challenge – I had to push myself to walk and climb for

What essential skills did you learn?

a full day, only to get up at 3.30 am the next morning. As much as

We learnt knot-tying skills such as the figure of 8, how to tie on, how

it was difficult, I would definitely recommend it to anyone, as long as they have a decent level of fitness, it was fun meeting new people and bonding with them as a group, trying something new together.

For more information about Action Outdoors and their courses, visit: www.action-outdoors.co.uk

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 11

mountain heritage

The life & times of Mabel Barker

“

Nicole reeve profiles one of Britain’s climbing pioneers.

There are moments when it is rather good fun to be a woman.

Probably no lady in history was ever so sure of creating a mild

Dow, Girdle Traverse

sensation by the mere fact of being where she was.”

Mabel Barker, Journal of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club,

Volume 7, 1925.

Claude Deane Frankland, often referred to as C. D. Frankland, had just finished his lead on a route on Scafell and was awaiting his second to join him on a ledge. Two gentlemen who were climbing a route named Keswick Brothers (Very Difficult), had seen C.D. Frankland and his partner climbing and asked which route they were on. C.D. Frankland timed his response perfectly and informed the two gentleman “Central Buttress, just got up the flake”, just as his climbing partner, Mabel Barker, appeared next to him.

Mabel Barker and C.D. Frankland had just achieved the fourth ascent of Central Buttress (graded E1 5b), which was also the first female ascent. This was in 1925, when female climbers were few and far between. During this climb Mabel Barker was also responsible for leading the Great Flake pitch, which now goes direct at E3 5c after the loss of the crucial chockstone in 1994 (there is still an E1 variation by climbing the face of the flake).

Sadly, two years later C.D. Frankland died while climbing Chantry Buttress on the Napes when a hold broke. Mabel was part of the climbing party that day and wrote the poem On Great Gable in 1927 to memorialise her friend and climbing partner: “...Never a cloud of the many that are That form and threaten and roll and dip Never a cloud had risen to mar The lovely radiance of comradeship...”

Not only a rock climber, Mabel was also a geographer and geologist. Born in 1886 in Silloth, Cumbria Mabel was educated far beyond the usual level for a woman at the time, gaining a diploma in Geography at Oxford University and a BSc degree in Geology in London. After the First World War, Mabel studied in France at the University of Montpellier where she was inspired by the work of Sir Patrick Geddes, biologist, sociologist and town planner.

During her time at Montpellier, Mabel wrote a PhD thesis entitled L’Utilisation du Milieu Géographique pour l’Education (The Use of the Geographical Environment for Education).

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Photos from the FRCC Archives Mabel was passionate about promoting outdoor education and opened a private school at Friar Row in Caldbeck in 1927. Mabel

At Winderemere Hydro, 1937.

(L-R:) A.E. Field, B.S. Harlow, W.G. Pape, C.F. Hadfield

encouraged children to explore the woods nearby and learn about the environment that they lived in. She would also take the children hill walking in the Lake District with trips to Scafell and Great Gable. Mabel always taught her pupils to look after the countryside and leave no trace behind.

The school unfortunately closed when the Second World War broke out; Mabel had many students from Europe attending the school and they had to return home before the borders closed. During both World Wars Mabel temporarily left teaching behind to nurse. She assisted the Society of Friends (Quakers) with refugees in Holland during the First World War and nursed at Garlands Hospital in Carlisle during the Second World War. “Although she always regretted her lack of physical strength, she had a fine natural style which seemed to dissolve all difficulties, and to climb in her company was often a chastening, though always rewarding experience.”

In Memoriam, Jack Carswell, Journal of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club, Volume 19, 1962 As Jack Carswell’s testimonial makes clear, Mabel was known amongst her friends in the Fell and Rock Climbing Club as a superb climber. Mabel continued to climb until ill health no longer permitted her to do so (she began to suffer from arthritis during World War Two).

During her climbing career Mabel Barker became to first woman to traverse the Cuillin Ridge in 1925 and at the age of 50 the first woman to descend Central Buttress.

Mabel Barker remains an inspiring figure in mountaineering to this day.

In our archive at Mountain Heritage Trust we have Mabel’s nailed climbing boots and rope used during the 1920s-1930s. In our library we also have Jan Levi’s biographical book And nobody woke up dead: The life and times of Mabel Barker.

to climb in her company was often a chastening, though always rewarding experience Information for this article obtained from And Nobody Woke up Dead: The Life and Times of Mabel Barker and Fell and Rock Climbing Club journals from 1925, 1926 and 1961.

Find out more about the Mountain Heritage Trust at: www.mountain-heritage.org

At the Belsfield Hotel, Windermere 1939. (L-R:) Mrs Corbett, J. Rooke Corbett, J.C. Appleyard, F.L. Cook, Mrs Cook, Trilby Wells, C.P. Lapage. (In Front:) W.G. Pape

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 13

INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

Guiding

Light

Lucy Wallace meets Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, Nepal’s first female mountain guide.

P

asang Lhamu Sherpa Akita was taking tea with a friend in Gorak Shep, a few hours’ walk from Everest Base Camp

pushed the powder to the village.”

She grew up in the shadow of that mountain, helping out

when the earthquake struck. “Suddenly the earth started

after school in the family restaurant, but Pasang Lhamu Sherpa

shaking and then everybody ran,” she recalls. “At the same

Akita was destined to break with tradition and become Nepal’s

time I heard a blast noise - BOOM. Everybody ran outside. And then the avalanche came… a big white cloud running towards us, and I

first female mountain guide. Today she is brand ambassador for Sherpa Adventure Gear and 2016 Adventurer of the Year, with

just ran in to the restaurant and closed the door. It became dark,

ascents of Everest and K2 to her name. On April 25th 2015, her

but we were so lucky, it was just powder. The avalanche of Everest

resourcefulness and courage were put to their biggest test, after

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FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 15

INTERVIEW

the devastating earthquake that shook Nepal. In the weeks that followed she battled to bring help to remote villages flattened by the quake.

At the moment the powder avalanche arrived in the village, she didn’t think much about the earthquake – she was concerned for Everest Base Camp. Her worst fears were confirmed when people began to arrive with injuries, reporting the devastation further up. “Gorak Shep is the last hotel before Everest so there were many people resting and waiting. There were many friends there, and I went and got everyone. There were some European guides and some other foreign guides, and Nepali porter guides, and we gathered 15 people and went to EBC to help.” At 3 p.m. a strong aftershock hit the area, spreading alarm amongst the group, with many wanting to turn back. “I couldn’t pressure them, because I wasn’t sure how safe it was, and I wasn’t going to put their life in danger - they have family at home, you know? At that moment I was also a little confused - should I go or not?” But her sense of purpose won through. “I had a good feeling that I’m going for a good reason, that I’ll be safe, that God will watch over me.”

In the end Pasang hiked up to Base Camp with a team of four people. When they arrived, she was shocked by what she found.

It brought back terrible memories of the avalanche disaster of the previous year. “It was destroyed” She says sadly, “it was very hard for me – this was the second year. In 2014 I was there too, and I was supposed to climb Everest, but after that avalanche, some of my good friends were also killed… and now I was back, and it was a war zone again. I was just crying and trying to help. All the victims - the bodies - were evacuated already. I dropped some medicine, grabbed some sleeping bags and mattresses and distributed them among the casualties. After one night I went back to Gorak Shep because on Everest there is no place to sleep, and then I found out it was actually a big earthquake, that damaged Kathmandu very badly.”

By coincidence, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa was given the same name

should try to make mountaineering my job.”

Defying expectations was not always easy, and although she grew up in an area where many people work in the mountains it did not

as the first Nepalese woman to climb Everest (read about a film

mean that she would be automatically accepted as a professional.

about the life of this mountaineer in our other interview this issue,

“It was quite challenging, I was born in the Sherpa family… and

with Alison Levine). She spent her childhood in a village close to

when I say I’m Sherpa, people say ‘oh its easy for you!’, but it

Lukla, the bustling little town at the heart of the Khumbu region

wasn’t easy. In Nepalese society there are so many boundaries and

of Nepal. There’s an airstrip, where planes shuttle tourists and

limitations for women.” Nepalese girls are expected to get married,

mountaineers to and from Kathmandu, and it’s the starting point for

and take care of the family, she explains. “The girl who gets married

most trekkers to Everest Base Camp. Her father died when she was

and stays home is considered a good girl, a good daughter, a good

young, and her mother raised Pasang and her sister whilst managing

wife. My job was quite different. I was the one who wanted to hang

the family teahouse, sending her to the local school. Despite the

out, climbing rock, climbing ice. And sometimes it didn’t make sense

numerous foreign visitors, daily life there is very traditional. Most

for them. I couldn’t get support.” Even just getting to the crag for a

young Sherpa women expect to get married and take care of the

training session meant negotiating a minefield of social norms: “If

home, but Pasang was different, she longed to climb the high peaks

I went rock climbing, we had to drive one hour from Kathmandu,

that surround Lukla. “Climbing mountains - it was my passion, my

and at that time I didn’t have a personal vehicle. I had to use public

hobby. Before, I just wanted to climb Everest, because I saw many

transport; but it doesn’t go all the way. If my family sees I’m riding

people come to climb that mountain, but when I started to take

some man’s motorcycle, what are they going to think about that? I

mountaineering courses, what I noticed was that I never saw any

had to be very careful, every step.”

women mountaineering as a profession. There were women who

Undeterred, in 2005 Pasang attended the Alex Lowe Foundation

had already climbed Everest… there were some doing trek guiding,

Khumbu Climbing Center. Here she took courses in ice climbing

but I didn’t really see women guiding on the mountains. Because

and rescue, and met up with other high altitude workers as well as

I love mountains, and they make me happy… that’s why I thought I

foreign guides. “It’s really fun, there are so many trainees, because

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INTERVIEW

The local economy was on its knees, and when money ran short, people helped in whatever way they could it’s winter and it’s not the season. It’s reasonable, they don’t charge any fee and instructors came from the USA. They have all the gear, like harnesses, boots and crampons… so it’s a really fun climbing school. I went twice. I also work now in winter, so I can’t manage it (now), but its really good.” Her colleagues encouraged her to follow her dreams, “they were very supportive, they used to say ‘anybody can do this if you try, but if you want to do it, do it now, once you get married you have to be home and your climbing will be finished’.

But my teachers, they were always encouraging.”

With training under her belt, Pasang Lhamu began to blaze a trail for women’s mountaineering in Nepal. In 2007 she summited Everest as part of an all female team and in 2014 she summited K2 with two other Nepalese women, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa and Maya Sherpa. The K2 ascent marked the first Nepalese female ascent of the second highest mountain in the world, known for diabolical hazards and disheartening statistics (one death for every four successful summits). Pasang’s team successfully negotiated the objective dangers as well as difficult whiteout conditions in descent.

“It was my dream. I thought it would be really good if we just had women in the team, because women know women really well.

It gives a message to other women. In our society lots of people thought we were crazy, they were like ‘these three women, with really good husbands, they should stay home, why are they going out there?’ So we were trying to give the message that if you have passion, if you have dreams, no-one can stop you.”

Asked if women have inherent qualities that are of benefit in the mountains, she considers the question carefully… “I think that women have a special power. That’s why they can manage the whole house, and they can give birth to a child. Physically we are not as strong as a man, but mentally we are unique. I also get stressed, but I know how to control. How to balance.”

Pasang’s public persona has a gentleness that belies a steely fatalism she says got her through the psychological challenges of the climb. “So many people talked about K2 danger; avalanche, bottleneck, tragedy. So we also got a little scared about K2 you know? We also had fear, but accept that if we climb safely, that’s good, if we die somewhere on K2, that’s ok. It was our mountain and Pasang at Kendal Mountain Festival recently.

Photo: Lucy Wallace

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we will be there forever. I was already prepared mentally.” Despite the potential for disaster, the climb stands out for her as one of the most memorable of her climbing career. “From the beginning we FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 17

INTERVIEW

had to face lots of challenges, it was hard to convince the family,

they could in the local area, their efforts at times thwarted by heavy

but we got some sponsorship from our friends, local companies.

rain that worsened already desperate conditions. “We drove almost

The three of us enjoyed every moment very much because we

three hours from Kathmandu, it was sad, all the houses just flat

didn’t know if we were coming back. We sang and danced every

down, collapsed with the roof on the floor and the people outside,

night. It was the best time!” She laughs. “That moment we lived!

we didn’t have enough food for all the people.” When she shared

Connecting with the people, talking, going to the porter’s place

her activities on social media, she began to receive hundreds of

and having tea with them, talking together and singing. Yes it was a

offers of financial support and assistance. Before long, she was

challenge, but we lived that moment, and it was successful, nobody

coordinating a huge relief effort, helping to direct funds raised

got hurt, we came back safely. The whole expedition was very

in the west and delivering much needed supplies to the villages

special.”

around Kathmandu. The local economy was on its knees, and when

The following year, that understanding of her place in the

money ran short, people helped in whatever way they could: “It was

world would see Pasang Lhamu spearheading the relief effort in

really hard to get money from the banks so we worked on credit a

the Gorkha region. Safely back at Gorak Shep, she learned of the

lot of the time. Everybody had a problem, everybody was in pain

devastation in Kathmandu. Her first thought was of relatives who

and they didn’t care about the money”.

might be in danger, and so she managed to get herself on a flight from Lukla in to the stricken city. “That night I flew in to Kathmandu, I couldn’t believe it. There was no empty space, everybody was outside under tarps, under plastic. There was no sanitation. At that time, Kathmandu life was really hard. I went to my husband’s parent’s place and they were also sitting outside, and luckily because I had some tents, they had a tent. Then I realised, I could have easily died anywhere, it could easily have happened to my family, but I am safe, they are safe. I thought: I have survived, but God has given me some chance to do good work, and I told my husband - we have to do something.”

This is not a “man’s job”, the mountain world is for everybody.

Initially Pasang and her husband tried to distribute whatever

18 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

www.mountainpromag.com

INTERVIEW

Through her guiding work, Pasang Lhamu has particular

$1,000 a month, and they easily get into trafficking. That was a

knowledge of the Gorkha region. She soon realised that the area

really big issue”. Giving people hope and a role in their community

was cut off and not receiving the help it desperately needed.

was important to their survival. She and her team constructed a

She put together a plan to deliver aid on foot. “I knew the Gorkha

hostel for the elderly, staffed by local women who cook and care

region, it was badly affected, all the trails were washed out by

for the residents. “The older people that don’t have family, some

landslide. Helicopters were busy with rescues, and so we mobilised

are blind, they cannot make their own shelter, so we brought the

the porters. The idea was simple; instead of paying for helicopters,

idea to make a temporary shelter.”

we would pay for porters from villages that lost everything. We

The shelter for the elderly slowly became a permanent structure

would use them, and also put some money back into the economy.

with many people still living there, receiving food and healthcare.

At that time people were panicking…so instead of sitting around,

Pasang Lhamu continues to work with humanitarian organisations

now they could do something.”

in the most hard to reach areas of the country, helping with health

The village of Laprak was particularly badly affected, and she

camps and delivering relief supplies. And there is much still to

counted at least 610 homes that were completely destroyed. The

do. When asked how we in the West can help, she breaks in to a

people had left and taken themselves up the mountain to a place

big smile and has a request that is almost impossible to refuse: “I

where they felt safe. “I found that the women and older people

have been telling everyone that the best way to help Nepal is to

were suffering. They had moved from the village, a three-hour walk

visit Nepal. There are so many people involved with the tourism

over the hill. It’s at about 13,000 feet, and cold. They didn’t even

industry, indirectly your help goes everywhere. It’s also good if you

have good temporary shelters, just tarps.” After distributing what

donate to good organisations, but just visit Nepal!”

she could, she returned to Kathmandu to gather more supplies, this

She also has a message for those who would like to follow in her

time focusing on aid for the most vulnerable people. “We prepared

footsteps: “Mountains are very special for me, they have changed

extra for the pregnant women and for the elderly. Some clothes,

my life. It doesn’t matter if it’s a big mountain or a small mountain.

extra mattresses, extra blankets and food, and for the women also

If you really like people, if you really like climbing mountains… This

sanitary pads.”

is not a “man’s job”, the mountain world is for everybody. They

She found herself concerned about trafficking as people in

never differentiate - either you are rich, or you are poor, they treat

desperation turned to anyone for help. “People are really in pain,

you equally. It gives freedom, that’s why I like it. I want to tell them,

they had lost everything, and these people say that you can earn

just follow your dream.”

www.mountainpromag.com

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 19

Splitboard Norway

Split boarding the Lynx Foot Pete Coombs tours the Lofoten Mountains.

20 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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Photography by Zak Emerson

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 21

Splitboard Norway

B

ack when the Scandinavian coastline was formed, a giant lynx prowled the water’s edge. It stared out across a near frozen sea, before stepping with its colossal paw down into the dark raging water far below. Angered by the cold,

it dug its razor sharp claws deep into the rocky soil, pulling skyward from the sea huge clumps of black granite - and so it was that the Lofoten (“lynx foot” in the old language of Norse) chain of islands was formed….

Millennia after that lynx had pulled these mountains from the sea, I stand uneasily on a very narrow, snow covered col, looking deep into a steep sided couloir - the exit of which was shrouded by low lying cloud. A choice to make! To my back was the route I’d just climbed, safe to descend by retracing my skinning tracks, but not as alluring as the chute I now stare down into.

There’s something that always pulls us towards the unknown; the wonder of what’s around the next bend or over the next mountaintop - and that lure was working its magic on me now.

Spindrift tumbled, like a silent waterfall, over the black rock sides of the couloir, which rose sharply above the snow, 100 metres high on either side. It wasn’t hard to imagine that the very chute I stood above hadn’t simply been carved out of the solid rock by a huge lynx’s claw; that one angry swipe of its paw hadn’t cut a near perfect skiable chute in the south side of Geitgallien, one of the classic peaks of the Lofoten Islands chain. I waited for a break in the cloud, hoping for a view down to the sea but it wasn’t forthcoming. I was starting to feel the cold, the warmth of many hours of climbing was being blown from my body by the freezing north wind. Visibility cleared a little, and decision made, I dropped into the deep snow of the chute.

Hugging the left hand wall for guidance, I powered through the light snow in a series of wonderful, almost frictionless, turns. The cloud lifted as I sped downwards, revealing the Arctic Sea and a series of shark tooth like mountains on all sides. The stunningly beautiful view added to the exhilaration of my first Lofoten descent.

My elation couldn’t be contained, and I screamed out with joy as I shot out of the couloir, and let rip some wide sweeping powder turns down towards the sea.

I’d first visited the Lofoten Islands many years ago one summer - on my honeymoon. I’d been enthralled by the beauty of the mountains, the way they thrust skyward to snow-capped knife edge peaks straight from the sea. But it’s not just the beauty of the mountains and their surroundings that lures adventurers here. It’s much, much more than that. There’s a sort of welcoming foreboding I’ve not felt in other mountains. It’s hard to explain and it may simply be brought on by the multitude of menacing near-black rock faces, that are far too steep to hold snow, but I feel it goes far deeper than just aesthetics. It’s as if the landscape is actually communicating with you, giving you a friendly warning. Letting you in on the knowledge that ‘this is serious terrain, and you may pass here, but make sure you take care and treat us with the respect we deserve, or we may just bite back.”

I’d promised myself, all those years ago, that I’d return one day with my snowboard; stepping off a tiny twin prop aeroplane, from 22 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

www.mountainpromag.com

Bodo on the Norwegian mainland, over a decade later, I’d finally made it.

I was travelling with a small group of photographers and budget filmmakers, and we soon arrived at the Lofoten Ski Lodge from Svolvaer airport, on the island of Austvågøya. Stumbling out of the car we were greeted by Maren, a local, and her mountain guide partner Seth, originally from Seattle. Together they run the fantastic lodge and the mountain guiding company ‘Northern Alpine Guides’.

Maren led us around the very stylish, yet relaxed, lodge.

“This is the main chill out area; please feel free to put your feet on the tables, and if you want anything, just ask. We like to say yes, but sometimes we have to say no…”

Leaving the lounge, we pass a small internal climbing wall, around which skis and boards line the walls.

“This is our semi inflatable rib for sea access skiing, there’s also a yacht too. It’s out at the moment, but Nick, the captain, will be at dinner if you want to take it out for the day.”

We return outside and are shown the fjord view sauna, just as some guests rush out of its door and leap from the jetty into the Arctic Ocean.

“Every guest must try this!” commanded Maren. “Some only do it once, but others get a taste for it.” Seeing the guest sprinting back into the sauna, I wasn’t convinced!

The Lofoten Ski Lodge is actually a collection of buildings and was originally a tiny fishing village, which had fallen into disrepair.

The now owners Per Lund and Randi Normann saw its potential while on a summer holiday in 1990, and bought it on the spot. Well I say “they”, what I actually mean was Per bought the place over the phone, while his wife was doing some shopping, without telling her.

“She was angry at first, but only for about four years.” Per tells us around the fire, after a fantastic dinner of fresh cod.

I’m reclining in a comfortable armchair in the main building, which was the old fish processing factory, next to a log fire which is as warming as Per’s conversational life lessons. Behind me, some of the staff and guests are jamming on the lodge’s baby grand piano, double bass and guitars, next to which two French guests battle it out over the table tennis table.

Per continues, “I used to run a successful fish restaurant in Tromso, but I sold that to buy this place. At first friends would come to visit and I’d hand them a saw, or a paint brush, and they would join in the renovations. I don’t work so hard any more, but I do still buy and gut all the fish we cook here. I only buy it from one very good local fisherman.” He sits deeper into his chair and takes a large gulp of scotch.

“You know we should all work less and live more; oh, and go jump in the ocean too.”

There are no ski resorts of any note on the Lofoten Islands, so if you want to access the high peaks the only choice is on foot, unless you’re part of a film crew which has managed to get one of a very few permits to heli-ski the islands. So I’d travelled here to splitboard - a form of ski touring, where your snowboard splits down its length to form a set of skis, to which you then attach a set of skins underneath to ascend, before reforming into a snowboard at the top www.mountainpromag.com

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 23

Splitboard Norway

for the descent.

After our initial day on Geitgallien the weather had closed in so each morning, after a wonderful breakfast, we would hold a brief with our guide Chris Wright, a half English, half Jamaican mountain expert from Bend, Oregon. Depending on the forecast, Chris’s local knowledge and group ability/desires we’d formulate a plan over coffee, never leaving the lodge before 9.30 am.

There’s simply no need to rush in the Lofotens, unless heading for one of the very busy routes, as in early April it’s still light at 9.00 pm, so there’s never any panic to finish early - unless you don’t want to miss the lodge’s post ski waffles.

I woke on our fourth day to the haunting call of a pair of great northern divers outside my bedroom window. Stretching whilst still in bed, I looked out at a millpond flat fjord and newly snow dusted high peaks. Now the weather had cleared, it was obvious that the last three days had deposited plenty of fresh snow. Even Chris showed a little urgency at our post breakfast brief, as he gave us two choices.

“We can either return to Geitgallien and get some epic shots, but it will be busy, or we can hit a possible first descent I’ve been looking at, again there’s a but, it’s a long walk in?”

We chose the latter, and an hour later I found myself clambering over moss covered fjord-side boulders, trying to avoid putting my hands in large piles of moose poo. It was very hard going; my backpack felt very heavy with the added weight of my snowboard, which kept scraping across the rocks and getting caught in tree branches.

After three hours of hiking, and 400 metres of ascent, we still stood at the water’s edge - but at last we were now below the col we wanted to climb.

Ascending skis on, the climb up was relatively straight forward until the last section of hair-raising bootpacking, above a large cliff section.

“I’ve called one of the other guides and he’s going to move our van, as I’m not walking out the way we came in!” Chris informs us.

“So we’re going to drop down the other side, as it pops out near the road.”

Exhausted and soggy, after hiking out through a bog, we sat at the van supping a beer. We didn’t know if it had been a first descent or not, but what we did know was that it was a challenging descent.

The first easy pitch led to a series of tight couloirs, one of which we had to sideslide, with the help of a rope fixed into the snow on a buried iceaxe.

The ski gods were with us again on our final day, and a smug

Essential Info Lofoten Ski Lodge

▼

Week long full-board guided adventures from NOK 17,000

feeling washed over me in the crisp morning sunshine as I stepped

(around £1,400).

down from the Skydancer yacht straight into fresh snow and yet

www.lofotenskilodge.com

another epic adventure.

As we sailed back to the lodge I reflected on a varied week of making the most of white out days in safe terrain and forests, and

Skydancer Yacht

some of the most adventurous touring I’ve ever done in sun-washed

Skydancer is a reinforced steel hulled yacht, which offers day

high peaks. But there was still one thing I had to do. As I reached

tours from the lodge (£120pp), as well as live aboard ski touring

near boiling point, I flung open the sauna door and leapt into the

adventures in the Norway, Svalbard and Greenland.

Arctic Ocean.

www.skydancer.no

24 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

www.mountainpromag.com

Transport Flying

▼

Direct to Lofotens from £350 return with SAS London - Oslo-Bodo www.flysas.com, then Wideroe from Bodo to Svolvaer. www.wideroe.no

Fly Drive London - Oslo-Narvik on SAS from £250 return, then four hour drive on E10 from Navik to Svolvaer.

www.mountainpromag.com

There are no ski resorts of any note on the Lofoten Islands, so if you want to access the high peaks the only choice is on foot FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 25

Splitboard Norway

Essential Kit Split-board

▼

This is a snowboard which splits in half, lengthways, and can be used as a set of skis when climbing up hill and converted back into a snowboard when it’s time for the descent.

Touring skis Although any ski can be fitted with touring bindings, most choose to use specific touring skis which are lightweight and not too wide underfoot. Wider skis make for more weight when hiking up, but are often much more fun on the way down.

Touring bindings Regardless of whether you’re splitboarding or skiing, you’ll need special bindings for touring. For the ascent they must hinge at the toe, allowing your heel to lift as you walk. The bindings must then lock flat to the ski/snowboard for the descent, in the same way they would on a downhill ski/snowboard.

Skins Skins are ski shaped pieces of fabric which are stuck to the bottom of your skis or split-board for ascending. In the same way as seal skin, the material they were originally made from, the fabric is smooth when rubbed one way, but rough when rubbed the other.

This allows you to slide the skis smoothly forward when climbing, but also helps to stop you from sliding backwards too.

Ski crampons

crampons, in the same way one uses a hiking pole. An ice axe is also used for self-arresting your fall.

Ski crampons fit onto the bottom of your binding, and have teeth

Repair/first aid kit

that protrude on either side of your boots. They are designed to

■ A repair kit should have essential tools and spares for repairing

be used while you still have your skis on, in areas with good snow

bindings and clothes. Your basic first aid kit should also have an

coverage that has a hard icy top layer, or in exposed areas when you

emergency blanket and shelter.

need a good reassuring grip underfoot. They aren’t used all the time,

Communication

as they cause additional snow drag when moving the ski forward.

■ Phone or radio to call for help, plus walkie-talkies for

Boot Crampons

communication amongt the group.

Both ski boot and snowboard boot crampons have large spikes that

Avalanche Safety Kit

stick directly into the ground underfoot, and at the toe for steeper

Transceiver: Sends and receives a signal so you can locate buried

terrain.

victims.

Ski-boot crampons will often fix directly onto the boot, while

Shovel: Collapsible shovel for digging out victims and inspecting

snowboard boot crampons fit over the sole of your boots, and are

the snow pack.

fixed around the ankle and the top of your foot with straps.

Probe: Locating victims, checking for hazards on glaciers and

Both are worn when climbing directly up steep icy slopes, or when

measuring snow depth.

the lack of snow dictates.

Poles

Clothing ■ Gore-Tex outers with vent

Telescopic poles for splitboarders, and light weight long handled

■ Mid layer puffer

poles for skiers

■ Merino Base layers

Ice Axe ■ An ice axe is used in steep terrain and when wearing boot

26 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

■ Light weight gloves and waterproof outers/mitts ■ Warm hat/snood ■ Helmet

www.mountainpromag.com

You may pass here, but treat us with the respect we deserve, or we may just bite back www.mountainpromag.com

Three other Arctic Ski Touring Adventures Ski touring Introduction course in Sweden and Norway

▼

A week with Mountain Guides in the Riksgränsen and Narvik area of Sweden/Norway. The goal of this course is to give you a solid foundation in ski touring, so that you are able to take your own tours in the future. €1375 per person, with a minimum of five participants. www.mountainguide.se

Iceland Bergmenn Guides offer hotel based ski touring weeks on Iceland’s isolated Troll Peninsular. You’ll always be in your own little group here, as Iceland is still under the radar of many ski tourers. It’s best for Northen Lights and powder in late Feb/early March, or longer days of spring skiing in April/ May. Week-long trip from €2,250. www.bergmenn.com

Greenland Greenland is extremely wild, yet easily accessible from Reykjavik and Copenhagen. Pirhuk offer numerous ski touring adventures in Greenland, from week long hut and lodge based trips (£2819) to 15 day backcountry ski expeditions (£3844), where searching out first descents is the focus. www.expeditiongreenland.com

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 27

INTERVIEW

The

ultimate classroom Chantelle Kelly talks to Alison Levine about learning and teaching in the mountains.

28 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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INTERVIEW How did you develop your love for the mountains, growing up did anyone particularly inspire you?

When I was younger I was always very intrigued by the stories of the early mountaineers and the early Arctic and Antarctic explorers. I would read books and watch documentary films about them, and could never seem to take in enough information about these adventurers. I had my second heart surgery when I turned 30 and after that a light bulb went on in my head and I thought, “If I really want to know what it’s like to explore these extreme environments, then I should go experience them myself instead of simply reading about them.”

Your book on the edge is about leadership lessons from the mountains. Can you tell us more about your approach to leadership and what lessons you believe are transferable from the mountain back into business or personal life?

The mountains are the ultimate classroom. These expeditions force you to get to know yourself and to figure out how to perform when you are completely outside of your comfort zone. You learn that you can push yourself far beyond your self-perceived limits. And because you have to carry all of your gear and belongings on your back (or in a sled if you are on a polar expedition), you learn that you need very little to actually get by from day to day, and that can be very empowering.

Mountaineering also requires a lot of strategic thinking. You’re dealing with environments that are constantly shifting and changing, so you have to be able to take action quickly. I like the intellectual challenge that goes along with that. And let’s face it; there is just something really nice about getting far, far away from civilization and allowing yourself to just take in the world around you. There is also a spiritual calm that comes when you experience the remoteness of the mountains and observe the unmatched beauty of snow-covered peaks.

I understand you also teach for the military in the States.

What is your role there and what do you get from that experience?

I spent a few years on the part-time faculty at West Point in the Department of Behavioral Sciences and Leadership, but now I work with the Thayer Leader Development Group, which is an executive education programme that shares leadership best-practices with corporate executives. My lectures focus on how to lead teams in extreme environments. I always enjoy sharing my leadership lessons with others, and because of the discussion/Q&A that takes place as part of the programme I always learn a tonne from the attendees in the programme. I am sure I get as much out of it as they do!

You’re planning a trip to Nepal with two other mountaineers to summit an unclimbed peak, can you tell us more about the mountain and how you plan to tackle it?

Well actually, we just returned in mid-November from photo: Jake Norton www.mountainpromag.com

completing the first ascent of Khang Karpo, a 6704 m peak FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 29

INTERVIEW photo: courtesy Alison Levine

photo: Squash Falconer

in the Rolwaling Valley in Nepal. My climbing partners

photo: courtesy Alison Levine

photo: Squash Falconer

were Squash Falconer and Kath Staniland – both from the UK (but they live in France now). They were THE BEST climbing partners and I am not sure I would have even attempted this peak with anyone else. I have known them for nine years and trust them with my life.

We also had an amazing team of Sherpas who were with us who were just incredible.

Why did you decide to attempt this particular peak, was the fact that it had not been climbed before a motive?

We wanted to do something that would challenge us both physically and psychologically. But more importantly, Squash, Kath and I just wanted a fun adventure. None of us had been to the Rolwaling Valley, so we thought, “why not?”

You recently completeD a first ascent of Hall Peak in Antarctica, can you tell us about it?

This climb took place back in January, and a friend of mine put it together for his 50th birthday (some guys go to Vegas, but not this guy). We were out in the Larson Valley - a place that is completely remote - so one is passing through there like they are when you go to climb Vinson or go to the South Pole (where there are lots of expeditions going in and out throughout the season).

What challenges did you face on the route?

Well, as is typical with first ascent in an incredibly remote area, you have absolutely no idea what to expect, so the lack of beta is the main challenge. There were plenty of sections of pretty steep rock and ice. And of course the total lack of predictability that is associated with anything in Antarctica is always a challenge.

30 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

photo: Lhakpa Rita Sherpa

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INTERVIEW

In 2010 you completed the Adventure Grand Slam. Which part

to turn that trend around and enables women to improve the

of this was the most difficult for you?

quality of life for themselves and their children.

Everest, for sure. Dealing with the altitude, and having to make such critical decisions when your brain and body are oxygen-starved.

You recently signed on as executive producer for the

Climbing in the “death zone” represents a set of unique challenges

documentary The Glass Ceiling, what’s the film about and why

that you don’t have to deal with on lower mountains.

are you involved?

The film is about Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepali woman to

How did you feel when you finished it?

summit Everest (not our other interviewee in this issue: ed). Because

Hungry.

she was a woman, she was forbidden to climb. She had to break through all kinds of cultural, traditional and political barriers in her

You were also the team captain of the first women’s Everest

fight for equality. She made three unsuccessful attempts before

expedition. What motivates you to take on these challenges?

she finally made it to the top in 1993. But sadly, she died on the

Back in 2001 there were very few women in the sport, so putting

descent, so she did not live to see her legacy unfold. Pasang was

together a women’s team seemed like a novel idea. But it wasn’t my idea – I was approached by a group of women who were

an inspiration to the people of Nepal and was a true trailblazer who paved the way for women and girls to climb in Nepal.

putting the team together, and they asked me if I would

The filmmakers and I feel very strongly that her story

serve as team captain. I was beyond excited about

deserves to be told. We are in the fundraising process,

the prospect of climbing with a team of women,

so if anyone can help, please donate through the

because usually I would find myself the only woman on an expedition, and sometimes the only woman on the entire mountain.

I’ve had plenty of phenomenal male climbing partners, but there is something special about a team of women, because everyone just “gets” each other. Of course now there are a tonne of women involved in mountaineering. I probably know more women in the sport than men at this point!

You’re the founder of the Climb High

website (www.theglassceilingmovie.com).

You’re dealing with environments that are constantly shifting and changing, so you have to be able to take action quickly.

I like the intellectual challenge that comes with that.

something you feel passionate about, and why?

Well, while women in western countries are very active in the sport, there are still places where mountaineering is not as popular with women. I’d like to do what I can to widen the interest level.

your greatest achievement?

Uganda to work as porters and trekking guides in the Rwenzori Mountains, can you tell us

2005 after I traveled to the Rwenzori Mountains and discovered

around women climbing, is this

Looking back, what do you feel has been

Foundation, which trains jobless women in

more about it and how you developed the idea?

The Climb High Foundation is an organization I started in

A lot of your work seems to evolve

Well, since I have to answer that today, I would say training the first group of Ugandan women to work as trekking guides in the Rwenzori Mountains is my greatest achievement. But I think once The Glass Ceiling documentary is

that women in this remote area of western Uganda really had no

finished, I will say that film is my greatest achievement. Now, the

access to capital and no way to support themselves. The Climb

director, Nancy Svendsen, is the one who is doing all of the really

High Foundation provides the training and gear (climbing clothing

hard work. But as the executive producer, I want to work to make

and equipment) that enables local women to work as porters and

sure that this film gets distribution all over the world – because

trekking guides in the Rwenzori Mountains so that they can earn a

it has the potential to positively influence millions of people –

sustainable living wage.

especially children/young adults. Pasang was dirt poor and could not read or write, yet she still found the courage to fight for social

Can you explain the difference it has made?

justice. This is a message that resonates across all demographics.

Most of these women are single mothers with many children, and of course there is no such thing as child support over there, so they

Any other expeditions or first ascents you plan to do in the

are left to fend for themselves. Many of them have no choice but to

future?

turn to prostitution. The AIDS rate is very high, and the average life

Ask me that one again in a few months. I am still recovering from

expectancy is only forty-two. The Climb High Foundation is helping

our Khang Karpo climb!

32 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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Tamara Lunger We take a minute out with ski mountaineer Tamara Lunger to quiz her about her training regime…

What are you working towards at the moment?

My goal of this year (2016) was to achieve the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, so I was training for that. But actually I am constantly in training for my next objective, even if I don’t know what it is yet. I enjoy the process.

How does training help you achieve your goals?

I think it is about having the confidence in your body that it is strong enough and can do the hard work when it really matters. Of course you need to be fast in certain moments of your expeditions or carry a lot of weight, sometimes spending 12 hours in a row on the mountain, and therefore you need to adapt your body to that challenge. At the same time, for me it is also important to train my mental www.mountainpromag.com

strength. Daily meditation helps me to feel good with where I am and what I do.

How often do you train a week?

I train every day, sometimes even twice. But it depends on how much time I have, the weather and also the feeling I have about what would be good for my body today.

What else do you do in addition to training?

I try to sleep well and eat healthy, meditate every day and keep in mind that I’m very privileged to have this kind of ‘work’. It never feels like a chore or something I have to do, so I’m very lucky.

All the years of injury have taught me a lot. It is not always the quantity, but more often the quality of training. You need to feel free and happy in what

you are doing and listen to your body.

Can you give us three training tips?

First be comfortable, then be pretty! Never forget your water! If you want to reach a goal, you can do it if you REALLY want it!

Find out more: Tamara Lunger is part of The North Face athlete team. www.thenorthface.co.uk FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 33

land management

BEN NEVIS

photo: Keith Brame

through the S e a s o n s The John Muir Trust look after the highest mountain area in the country. Alison Austin shares her Ranger’s Diary

I

’m not naturally a pessimist but I do tend to expect a never

off and some of the boulders which bounced their way down the

ending downpour at Nevis, usually coupled with wild winds

hill were the size of large cars! In fact many made it over 300 metres

from the west, as we move from summer to autumn. It didn’t

down to the river bed, where they have altered a section of the

happen this year, meaning the broadleaf trees held their leaves

river where kayakers often put in for their decent of the River Nevis.

longer than usual with the golden colour of the birch trees in the

This left considerable damage in the woodland but what was most

glen as glorious as we’ve seen for years.

worrying was how unstable some of the blocks and downed trees

The weather wasn’t the only unexpected event. I ended up rather busy trying to deal with the aftermath of a significant rock fall in

were immediately above the path.

Lochaber Mountain Rescue were on site that night and again the

Steall Gorge that happened on September 13th. Over 100 tonnes

next morning. The rescue team used a drone to search from above

of rock and some soil came crashing down from the cliffs of Meall

looking down on the boulders that had crashed down to the river

Cumhann which sits above the Steall Path. Part of the buttress broke

for signs of anyone caught by the rockfall – thankfully no one had

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been. They also captured some great images of loose rock higher

Peaks Partnership which includes representatives from Scafell and

up on the mountain. These were useful for Thistle Access, the local

Snowdon. Here, we share ideas on managing the enormous impact

contractors we employed to make the area safe.

of charity events in the three highest mountains in the UK. The

Unfortunately we had to close the path until we could get into the

three Peaks Partnership website which we put together last year

affected area. Communicating what was happening to the public

www.threepeakspartnership.co.uk gives guidance on carrying out a

was important, so I worked with the Trust’s communications team to

challenge responsibly and also gives plenty of safety information

create signage for the local area and to get word out via the press

and guidance on what to think about before groups set off. But these

and social media that the Steall Path was closed to the public, for

events still have an enormous impact and we are trying to establish

safety reasons. We also shared suitable alternative routes for those

a culture of putting something back towards upkeep of paths and

still looking to access the Ben and surrounding area. Luckily, thanks

facilities on the mountains. On October 8th the Real 3 Peaks event

to the Trust’s supporters we had some money available through our

did an fantastic job of clearing lots of litter from the summit of

wild ways path appeal fund that we could immediately allocate to

Ben Nevis and raising awareness of the impact people have in the

the safety work and path repairs. Once a colleague and I had agreed

mountains.

the work required with contractors we were able to get moving with repairs quickly.

The first stage was to descend the slope checking for any loose rock with the potential to move or fall. Boulders were stabilised and any trees that were dangerously overhanging the path or caught

The rest of this autumn is filled with wrapping up reports and analysing some of the ecological monitoring that was carried out in the summer. This all helps me make plans for next year. Hopefully I will get some days out on the ground as well.

We have a short work party planned for a weekend in January

up behind loose boulders were cut. This took three weeks. We then

to get Scots pine planted in the Steall area as this is the one native

reopened the path and the maintenance team worked for the next

species that is not regenerating naturally here. We will have to put

three weeks to repair the damage that the boulders did to the path.

up some protection in the form of small fenced exclosures as these

It was an expensive and time consuming job, but one that we were

planted seedlings are particularly appealing to hungry deer in winter

able to respond to quickly. Events like this really do highlight the

- so some careful planning has been carried out to make sure these

need for ongoing support. In Scotland the majority of path work

don’t look too intrusive. I walked out with one of our trustees in

repairs by organisations like the Trust is funded by public donations.

November to look at the repair work at Steall and we were rewarded

One knock-on effect of all this was that the Mamore sky race,

with the sight of two eagles circling above the car park. I often see

an international skyrunning event with a global following, had

them here in the winter and it’s a lovely reminder of the cycle of the

to quickly plan an alternative route. I’d worked with the event

seasons to see them again. It’s been a busy year.

organisers in the months previously to agree a route through the gorge while making sure any environmental impact or public the weekend after the rockfall and had to be diverted. It was

All about the Ben

unfortunate but the event team managed to arrange an alternative

Over 100,000

safety concerns had been addressed. It had been due to happen

route so the race could still go ahead and the plan is to revert to the route through the gorge in the future.

▶︎

people walk to the summit of the Ben – the UK’s highest

Having the path closed made it a little difficult for our stalkers

point – every year.

to access the land beyond Steall for our annual deer cull. The stag season runs from July 1st until October 20th but we tend

40,000 enjoy the wild and rocky route through the Steall Gorge

to concentrate our stag cull near the end of the season. On Ben

to the stunning Steall Ban waterfall. The Trust work to manage

Nevis Estate we cull around 10 stags every year. So far, as I write,

visitor impact by maintaining the upper stretch of the Ben

we have seven and will apply for an out of season license to take

Nevis summit path as well as the Steall Gorge trail. We collect

the remaining three when they are spending time in the woodland

litter in collaboration with local organisations such as Friends

close to the gorge and are easier to extract to the road. From Oct

of Nevis. One quarterly litter clearance on the summit of Nevis

21st until mid-February, our stalkers will be taking 20 hinds from

filled 18 bin bags with rubbish left on the hill - 10 of them just

the Steall area. This cull is a little higher than the annual recruitment

banana skins (they can take years to degrade).

(birth rate) for the area. It’s designed to keep the deer numbers low

The Trust carries out regular wildlife and habitat surveys to

enough to allow naturally regenerating native woodland seedlings

inform their ecological restoration work. This includes deer

to mature and should allow the ancient woodland in Steall Gorge to

control so that native trees, and other habitats, can regenerate.

flourish. We’re seeing trees in this area slowly regenerate because

As a result, they are seeing year on year seedling growth in

of the approach we are taking and have examples from other

the area. The Trust also works with neighbours and other land

properties we take care of where increased deer culls have resulted

managers in the Nevis Landscape Partnership to manage this

in similar success.

special and popular area.

In November I travelled to meet colleagues from the three

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For more information, see www.johnmuirtrust.org

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 35

TRAINING

SCHOOLED BY

Joan Mcfadden reports on one of Scotland’s newest outdoor education facilities.

36 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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I

n the past ten years adventure tourism has grown to the extent

different approach with my life, and as well as enjoying all of that,

that over 90% of tourism boards surveyed worldwide now

make a career out of it.”

recognise it as a stand- alone sector. That’s a rise of over 40%.

This broadening of ‘adventure’ as a choice of travel is driven by

He started working with the Arisaig Sea Kayaking Centre as a freelance guide in his second year of study, and when he graduated

a number of trends, including the soft adventure option becoming

took over the business, crediting his studies with helping him focus

more popular, trip experiences being customised to suit particular

on his ambition. “Before I started the course I’d gained a vast skillset

demographics, and family groups looking for an experience tailored

doing things by myself,” he explained “The degree really helped

for all ages.

me understand the market I wanted to work in and gave me the

The desire for an authentic experience seems to be a major

theory to look at the potential of the business. The course had a

theme within adventure tourism, which has a tendency to increase

great balance for me. I loved going out into the hills in the snow or

exposure to risk, both in terms of physical safety and maintaining

kayaking out to sea as a team because you were learning all the time

equipment. Managing risk alongside client expectations is what

and building on experience you already had, but I also loved being

marks out the professional in a field which carries added danger. It

in the classroom as that gave me the bigger picture and gave me the

needs to be about more than just the money.

confidence to take over the business and develop it. There were just

This is the background against which the BA in Adventure was developed by the University of the Highlands and Islands’ School of Adventure Studies, based in Fort William and Skye. As you’d

a couple of us to start with but I now have five members of staff, two of whom are on the Adventure Tourism course at the school.”

As holidaymakers flock in growing numbers to Scotland’s great

expect, all lecturers are experts in their field, with the practical skills

outdoors, there’s a greater need than ever before for properly

and expertise required to lead students kayaking off the coast or

qualified operators and guides. Entry requirements to the degree

climbing in the Black Cuillin in winter, but its USP is that students

courses are 3 Highers / 2 A Levels at C and an active interest in the

can literally step out of the door and straight into the field. This

outdoors. Students gain a real up-close-and-personal understanding

practical experience plays a huge part in the interest the school has

of what it takes to operate professionally in remote and locations;

inspired. The natural heritage, culture, landscapes and seascapes of

including navigation and expedition skills, weather, map-reading,

the West Highland Coastline and Islands offer a compact and diverse

survival and camping skills. Leadership, fitness, nutrition, the

venue for outdoor professionals, trainees and punters alike.

business and marketing of adventure, plus coaching, physiology and

Mike Martin, the first student to graduate from the school – in

psychology of outdoors pursuits are also included in the curriculum.

2015 - with a 1st Class Honours in Adventure Tourism Management

Assessments include staging expeditions to some of the remotest

immediately set

areas of Scotland’s

up a successful sea

wilderness and to

kayaking business.

other adventurous

He is the epitome

destinations around

of the outdoor

the world, sleeping

enthusiast who

in snow-holes and

has managed to

the like. Programme

channel his interest

Leader Matt Groves

effectively into a

helped pioneer the

career, but it took

development of the

him some time to

School of Adventure

reach that point.

Studies and is also

“I was 28 when

developing a new

I started my course

degree in adventure,

and up till then I

with the expertise

simply worked in

that comes from a

hotels and pubs

17-year career in

to pay for playing

the outdoor sector.

outdoors the rest of

Passionate about

the time,” he said

rock climbing, hill

“I’m passionate about rock climbing, mountain biking, sea kayaking

walking and mountaineering, as well as skiing and paddlesports, he

and practically anything else that involves being outdoors. People

has a wide range of National Governing Awards to his name and is

come here for their holidays, but it’s not just those from beyond

keen to see his students as highly qualified as possible.

Scotland who don’t realise the range of activities here – it’s a

“The degree in Adventure is exciting but to me the real news

different world to those even from central and the south of Scotland.

is the emergence of a place where students’ future careers in the

The variety of the landscape, the time of year, even the weather

Adventure industry can take shape” he says “Adventure tourism is

can change the experience every time. I realised that I could take a

huge and constantly growing and our aim is to meet that need in the

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 37

TRAINING

public to be challenged. The commercialisation of it brings a duty of care, which we’re very aware of and that’s what singles out the professionals.”

“Field trips are obviously a really important part of the courses, but so too is the preparation and coming back to the classroom to discuss what we’ve learned,” says Matt, highlighting the major responsibility of tempering enthusiasm with learning all the basic skills needed on the hills. “My trips with my students include mountaineering, hillwalking, navigation, climbing, ice climbing and kayaking and these are all specialist activities, requiring the right equipment and preparation. I’ve been in situations where a student was inadequately prepared and when the weather came down I had to evacuate them. It’s amazing how quickly a benign situation on

38 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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“Adventure tourism is huge and constantly growing and our aim is to meet that need in the public to be challenged.

The commercialisation of it brings a duty of care, which we’re very aware of and that’s what singles out the professionals.” the hills can flip over into something that needs a decision – do we abandon our plan, all bale out or get one person back to base?”

An authentic experience is at the heart of adventure tourism, but it takes a specialised approach, hence the new degree course. “It’s brilliant to be able to develop a career around a huge passion like the outdoors but there’s an edge to this” says Matt “We’re laying the groundwork in decision making and professionalism so our graduates can go on to embrace the challenges while leading other people as effectively and safely as possible – that’s the balance we’re all aiming for.”

There’s the sense that everyone involved – lecturers and students alike - are constantly developing skills, which is reflected in the introduction of new courses as the school expands. Eilid Ormiston (53) is the Course Leader for all the Further Education Outdoor courses at the School of Adventure Studies and has a similar approach to Matt. “It’s inspiring to see students develop and progress over the year to graduate successfully with qualifications, skills, experiences and memories that will last a lifetime.”

She is also well qualified to comment on the ongoing concern that modern childhood is too insulated from risk. “We have three sons and I feel if children are denied independence and a chance to explore and discover then they’ll suffer as they won’t build up the skills required to look after themselves and deal with life on a larger scale, “ she says “Getting out with my students in the field and going through the challenging experiences of navigating a river in a kayak or summiting a mountain, getting soaked through but still achieving a successful overnight camp is a great leveller of people and sharing these experiences creates an important positive relationship within the learning team.”

She has had many role models along the way, but interestingly counts her sons as inspiration. “One became a geologist and travelled across the Arctic ice fields for 4 months at 19 years old,

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 39

TRAINING

one is an adventure guide living to paddle the white water rivers of

camp in a total whiteout, unable to see their feet. “I stay calm and

Kenya, Uganda and Europe and the youngest currently volunteers

work out how to sort it but situations like that are rare. Normally the

in Guyana teaching Amerindian children Geography, living on the

mountains are my refuge – nothing beats the feeling of being able

Savannah at the edge of the Amazon forest so they can’t fail to be

to get out there and enjoy the wild.”

my inspirations and role models. I guess adventure is in the genes.”

That’s a fairly typical description of the average student here, though that’s not an adjective applicable to most of them, as Zeki Basan (16) illustrates. Now studying at the Fort William campus, he is so passionate about the outdoors that when he moved to the School of Adventure Studies on Skye last year he set up home alone in a tepee. He slept on an ancient canvas camp bed given to him by his grandfather, with two old army blankets and skins he has tanned himself – roadkill – as extra covers and on the floor for warmth. An open fire in the tepee provided warmth and a place to cook and he spent his evenings tanning animal and fish skins, carving wood and entertaining any visitors.

His role model is the 19th century pioneer of conservation, John Muir and the school provides the perfect learning experience for Zeki, who revels in the challenges of winter climbing in the Black Cuillin or sea kayaking off the coast of Skye. He admits to some challenging moments, such as the weather rolling in and disorientating him while out on the hills or a recent camping expedition on the Trotternish Ridge on Skye when they had to

For more information on the school, see https://www.whc.uhi.ac.uk/studying-at-whc/school-of-adventure-studies

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 41

book

1865 The Golden Age of Mountaineering by Gilles Modica An exploration of the ‘golden era’ of alpinism, from Alfred Wills’ first ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 to the first ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper and his six companions in 1865.

" W

Wine so bitter … it would curl your hair.

Joris-Karl Huysmans, The Vatard Sisters

"

hat fuel did travellers of the golden age rely on, what was their indispensible stimulant? Tea, of course. Yet tea was not enough. Nor was black coffee, also often mentioned.

And what remedies were employed by shaggy chamois hunters,

mountain-mad clergymen, and eccentric English gentlemen to ward off sudden fatigue, altitude sickness, dizziness, flu, tummy troubles, sunburn, frostbite, blisters, cramps, thirst or hunger? What drugs did they use? How did a super-athlete nourish and cure himself if he came from Chamonix? Or if he came from London?

In 1842 John Ruskin’s guide – Joseph-Marie Couttet, a fiftysix-year-old veteran of Napoleon’s army and former ‘captain’ of Chamonix guides – told Ruskin, as they were sharing a good jug of wine, that in Chamonix people drank absinthe as a cure. If someone 42 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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came down with a fever, he was taken up to Montenvers or La Fl.g.re and made to drink absinthe until dead drunk, following which he was put to bed to sleep off the drink and vanquish the fever through rest. According to Ruskin, Couttet claimed that this remedy never failed. Meanwhile, the cultivated, affluent gentleman from England, who read the reports in the Alpine Club, relied on calomel (mercuryl chloride) as a purgative

Tyndall, like Whymper and a few others, was an early voice against having one for the road

and a few drops of laudanum (a tincture of opium) for insomnia and headaches.

Absinthe, it might be recalled, was a powerful alcohol distilled from a

poets and fans of aperitifs (absinthe was also drunk as an aperitif),

type of wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). Although considered ‘green

boldly declaring that ‘absinthe kills’. A few lines later, in capital

magic’ by poets, its manufacture and consumption were outlawed in

letters, it added: ‘DEATH TO ABSINTHE’.

1915. A French mountaineering handbook published in 1904 (Manuel d’Alpinisme) devoted a chapter to ‘Drink’ in which it took issue with

French historian Hippolyte Taine asserted that William Pitt the Younger (1759–1806), who masterminded all the coalitions against France and Napoleon, drank at least two bottles of port at dinner.

Two bottles of port!

Journalist Albert Smith apparently consulted Pitt’s shades before climbing Mont Blanc in 1851 with three companions and more bottles than guides (of whom there were sixteen): ■ 60 bottles of Vin Ordinaire ■ 6 bottles of Bordeaux ■ 10 bottles of St George [Burgundy] ■ 15 bottles of St Jean ■ 3 bottles of Cognac ■ 1 bottle of syrup of raspberries ■ 6 bottles of lemonade ■ 2 bottles of champagne.

The rest of Smith’s list tells us something about their anxieties.

These brave gentleman were apparently concerned by problems of constipation rather than an excess of meat and wine.

■ 20 loaves ■ 10 small cheeses ■ 6 packets of chocolate ■ 6 packets of sugar ■ 4 packets of prunes ■ 4 packets of raisins ■ 2 packets of salt ■ 4 wax candles ■ 6 lemons ■ 4 legs of mutton ■ 4 shoulders of mutton ■ 6 pieces of veal ■ 1 piece of beef ■ 11 large fowls ■ 35 small fowls.

Those packets of prunes are revealing, and their usefulness was confirmed by Viollet-le-Duc. Held to be the leading cause of illness by nineteenth-century doctors, constipation was a common phobia of climbing parties during the golden age of mountaineering. Which may seem surprising: what were they worried about, given that digestion is accelerated by legwork? The steepness of Mont Blanc’s slopes ensured the intestinal transit of all those fowls.

The people who came after Smith displayed a certain prudence in what they ate and drank. When Tyndall, that lone glacier explorer, climbed Monte Rosa (4,634 metres) in 1858, he did so soberly – not a drop of alcohol, just a ham sandwich. Tyndall, like Whymper and a few others, was an early voice against having one for the road: ‘I had neither brandy nor wine, but I knew the immense amount of mechanical force represented by four ounces of bread and ham, and I therefore feared no failure from lack of nutriment. Indeed, I am inclined to think that both guides and travellers often impair their vigour and render themselves cowardly and apathetic by the incessant “refreshing” which they deem it necessary to indulge in on such occasions.’

Buy the book from Vertebrate, here: http://bit.ly/2fQ0Tua

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 43

GEAR GUIDE

Winter Insulation

for him

Warm winter insulation takes many forms in 2017. Dan Aspel and Lucy Wallace take a look at some of the best cold weather options on the market today.

np rom ag.com

Haglofs Essens Mimic jacket £160

BEST BUY i ta www.moun

pr om ag.c om

EDITOR’S CHOICE

The unique appeal of this jacket comes through its insulating material, known as QuadFusion Mimic. Designed to replicate the heat-trapping abilities of goose down, it’s polyester based and thus doesn’t clump together and fail when wet. From my testing I’d suggest that this is actually underselling it, and I’ve found its level of warmth retention from 260g of fill to be superior to many down garments I’ve worn - damp or not. Given its respectable 490g weight rating and compressibility (into a 4l dry bag) that matches similarly rated down equivalents, I haven’t found a way yet in which the Essens doesn’t come out on top across the board. The QuadFusion is superbly packed into tubular strips along the jacket, and doesn’t appear to slip or gather in pockets the way traditional down does over time. The cut, meanwhile, is athletic, with a well judged elasticated hem and wrists, a solid zip and a firm, comfy fit at the neck. The single chest and two side pockets are nicely sized and designed, and in cool conditions I found it impressively breathable as well - even during moderate exertion. A hooded version is available for £20 more.

■ www haglofs.com Verdict: Breathable, warm, slender and moisture resistant. Hard to fault.

Best for: Active winter use across the board.

in nta www.mou

Outdoor Research Diode Hooded jacket £250 The Diode weighs in at 521g, making it a slightly weighty option, but in that package it combines a trilogy of impressive materials aimed at keeping you warm in all conditions. These comprise: top-of-the-range Primaloft Gold insulation (in the shoulders, hood and waist), a 70% goose down / Primaloft Gold blend (in the rest), and a Pertex Quantum outer to keep it all in place. Features are really nicely judged, from the selection of six different pockets (one of which functions as a stuff sack) to the excellent wired-peak, helmet-compatible hood and simple adjustments at the hem and wrists. The cut is very close fitting, which may present issues with extensive layering, yet it still remains manoeuvrable for something that provides such good levels of warmth retention.

The resulting jacket is something versatile enough to be worn for winter camps, while being breathable and shower-resistant enough to function as a good outer layer while active in very cold conditions. As with all synthetic-based garments, I’d choose this over a down alternative for perennially damp British mountain conditions. The colour schemes are pleasingly vibrant too. ■ www.outdoorresearch.com Verdict: Expensive but versatile, and a highly recommended winter tool.

Best for: Skiing and high mountain activities.

44 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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GEAR GUIDE

Paramo Torres Alturo jacket - £170 The Torres Alturo is built to be thrown over your shell or other waterproof layer in extreme cold or high wind chill.

Consequently it’s extremely spacious and loose fitting, and no matter what layers you’re wearing. It’s stuffed with 133g of water-repellent synthetic Nikwax insulation, while the “windproof” outer (i.e. make sure you’re wearing a waterproof within in high precipitation) has a DWR coating to stave off light rain and snow. I’ve been very impressed with it on early winter summits, and in particular in -10°c or more windchill: slipping it over my base/thermal/shell layers completely negated this to a remarkable degree. More positives are that the two side and single inner pockets are truly vast (the latter acts as a stuff sack), the cut is long with an easily cinched hem and the helmet-sized hood is enveloping. Downsides are that my scales have it at 644g in weight, it’s big even when compressed and the hood - although protective - is nearly impossible to tighten without obscuring your eyes. ■ www.paramo-clothing.com Verdict: A deep cold beast of an overlayer. Unrefined but very effective.

Best for: Survival situations, high windchill and winter belaying.

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Montane Blue Ice jacket - £160 The Blue Ice takes a hybrid approach to insulation, and in its 220g of material mingles mid-range Primaloft Silver synthetic fibres with equally mid-market 650+ fill water resistant down.

The result is a 463g jacket that delivers a very solid amount of warmth retention, impressively quick drying and relatively resistant to moisture (whether that comes via precipitation or perspiration) compared to traditional down garments. I mostly enjoyed the cut and design of the Blue Ice, with the compartmentalised insulation seeming solid, the wrist and neck fitting being very well judged and the single inner and two outer pockets being spacious. The hem drawcords, however, tended to slip when cinched tight, and compared to the top competing synthetic alternatives the jacket is marginally bulkier and ever so slightly lower performing in extremely damp atmospheric conditions (i.e. 4°c torrential rain in the Lakes). The outer has a DWR coating which adds peace of mind during light showers, and it even comes with its own branded stuff sack too. ■ www.montane.co.uk Verdict: A strong effort and a solid winter product.

Best for: General winter use, from midlayer to campwear.

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 45

GEAR GUIDE

Winter Insulation for her pr om ag.c om

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Black Diamond Hot Forge Hybrid Hoody £200

I hand-picked the products for this test from my favourites this winter, so the competition for Ed’s Choice was tough. However, the Hot Forge Hybrid is my favourite for both versatility and wearability. Since it landed on my desk, I’ve reached for it over and over again. Built from a hybrid of 60 g/m2 Primaloft Gold Synthetic and Primaloft Downblend, (down mixed with synthetic fibres for increased water resistance), it is neither the warmest for its weight, nor the most water resistant, but does a really good job of straddling both camps. The synthetic fibres are across the shoulders, hood and arms, where durability and water repellency are most needed. The micro baffles on the body are filled with warmer and more compressible Downblend.

This insulation level is perfect for active use in very cold conditions, or as an occasional layer in milder weather. The hood is very adjustable with a rear drawcord and helmet compatible. I love snuggling in to the brushed fleece collar. Slim, stretchy cuffs slide easily under big gloves and seal in warmth. The cut is neatly contoured, even flattering, with good length and articulation so it doesn’t ride up when moving about. Two zipped hand warmer pockets plus big internal pouches add to the functionality. Weight 350g. ■ www.blackdiamondequipment.com

in nta www.mou

Jöttnar Fenrir £200

np rom ag.com

Verdict: Cleverly designed jack of all trades, enjoyable to wear.

Best for: Anything from all day on a winter climb, to a belay jacket for cool days at the crag.

At the same price as the Hot Forge Hoody, it was a toss up as to which of these BEST BUY would get Best Buy, but I went for maximum “bang for your buck”, and have i ta www.moun selected the Fenrir for its warmth and low weight. At 315g it is much warmer and yet lighter than the BD option, so is a good choice for an emergency layer or belay jacket. Packed with over 100g of 850 fill power hydrophobic DownTek goose down, it is very compressible and comes with its own stuff sack. The cuffs and hem, areas most vulnerable to getting wet, are filled with water resistant synthetic insulation. It holds its loft well in damp conditions but is not so bulky that it won’t layer under a shell in extremis. The water repellant finish has so far shed rain without a problem, and the overall performance in damp weather has exceeded expectations in conditions that are traditionally a weak area for down. It looks great, with contrasting lining and zips, but is in fact quite minimalist, with non-adjustable hood and simple elastic bound cuffs. There are two hand warmer pockets and a zipped internal one.

Jöttnar also get a thumbs up for sourcing down with a high standard of animal welfare.

■ www.jottnar.com Verdict: A good quality, lightweight and damp resistant down jacket.

Best for: The unpredictable and often extreme conditions of Scottish winter.

46 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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GEAR GUIDE

Rab Xenon X Hoody £160 The Xenon X Jacket, revamped for this season, is all about lightweight insulation in damp conditions. Filled with 60 g/m2 Primaloft Gold Active, a new type of synthetic insulation from Primaloft, optimised for breathability. The jacket has a silky compressibility that feels luxurious layered under a shell, is warm when wet and dries out quickly. Unlike down, I would not be at all concerned if this jacket was soaked right through. It is the least warm jacket on test here, but also the lightest, with a simple design that includes two hand warmer pockets and an internal chest pocket, plus a snug non-adjustable hood. It stuffs in to the chest pocket with a tab for clipping to a harness. I’ve enjoyed using it backpacking and camping through the autumn, and it has frequently been in the bag as an emergency layer on the mountain bike. Now the snow has arrived it has the right level of insulation for wearing on the move. I admit I’m not a fan of the super shiny Pertex Quantum shell, but performance rightly outweighs looks every time. Weight 301g.

■ rab.equipment

Verdict: Lightweight performance that handles moisture from any direction.

Best for: Wearing on the move in very cold conditions, or ultralight adventures that might be wet.

Arc’Teryx Atom AR Hoody £220 The Atom AR has a pleasing solidity. It is warm, thanks to zoned areas of three different weights of CoreLoft synthetic insulation - up to 120 g/m2 on the body. This nudges it into the sorts of temperatures where I might normally reach for down. Despite this, the weight is competitive, at 415g, and with it comes with a reliability in wet conditions that even modern, treated down simply can’t guarantee. For this reason I really like this as an emergency layer in marginal conditions, or for multi day trips when I need my clothing systems to be flexible and able to cope with an accidental soaking. It’s also tough enough to wear as an outer layer under a pack, or skiing (I fall over embarrassingly often). I’ve even climbed some rough, pyroclastic rock wearing, it, with no visible damage, although the lovely aqua colour I am testing is now looking rather grubby. There are zipped hand warmer pockets and an internal chest pocket. The hood is basic, but is helmet compatible and has a drawcord adjustment. There are nice touches, typical of Arc’teryx’s attention to detail, including a fitted collar panel to keep drafts out, and stretchy gusseted cuffs. ■ www.arcteryx.com

Verdict: Bombproof synthetic insulation for unpredictable conditions Best for: Multi day trips, adventures that are hard on your gear.

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 47

GEAR GUIDE

Expedition luggage Need to get a lot of gear from A to B? Dan Aspel looks at four top luggage options to sling in a plane hold, strap to a 4x4 and take on your next big adventure.

Ortlieb Big Zip 140l, £163

pr om ag.c om

It’s hard to beat the Big Zip. To begin with, its capacity is truly enormous - unfurl this big orange (or black, or yellow) thing and you might be forgiven for thinking you’d ordered a packraft instead of a duffel bag. And better yet, the whole of that 140l is available to fill, with no pockets or division getting in the way - it’s just one big cavern. Once your gear is in, you can secure it with two solid, clip-mechanism inner compression straps, pull the meaty waterproof zip closed and then secure it yet again with another big outer clip before you pick it up using either the shoulder straps or the chunky handles in either the centre or at each end. The whole affair weighs a reasonable 1596g and is made of a thick and extremely abrasion resistant, highly waterproof (an eyewatering 100,000mm hydrostatic head) PVC-coated polyester fabric. There’s no wheels or other features or pouches EDITOR’S at all, but in terms of simplicity and function this is a superb way to CHOICE transport a lot of gear about, whatever conditions you expect n to meet. ■ www.ortlieb.com tai n www.mou

Verdict: Big, Simple, tough and waterproof. A winner.

Best for: Rafting.

Aquapac Upano 90l, £120 np rom ag.com

Aquapac’s Upano range (named after a river in Ecuador) wins its “stormproof” rating by being subjected to powerful jets of water fired “at all angles through a 12.5mm nozzle”, the brand claims. It’s easy to believe when you start to use the BEST BUY i bag yourself. Roll the top over on itself a couple of times, secure it via the ta www.moun full-length hook and loop patch then clip it in place at either end and you’ll already sense its security. Adjust the compression straps and release all of the air trapped within via the handy purge valve and you’ll be convinced. The 90 litre version of the Upano weighs just 876g, and although that roll-top mechanism makes filling the full capacity with your outdoor gear a more fiddly prospect than the competitors here, this is an impressively built and priced bit of kit. Portage options are limited to the detachable shoulder straps (not grab handles here), but the ID window on the end is a nice touch. The body is made of PU-coated nylon and should prove rugged enough for continued abuse. ■ www.aquapac.net Verdict: Affordable and effective waterproof luggage.

Best for: Budget waterproofing

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GEAR GUIDE

Arc’teryx Carrier Duffel 80l, £140 At 650g the feathery lightness of the Carrier Duffel is the big appeal.

That’s slightly tempered by its relatively limited capacity, but if your needs aren’t great and you don’t need to shift a lot of technical equipment, then this is a minimalist triumph. The slimline weight is achieved through using a slender, but tough PU-coated nylon fabric for the main body, and combining it with a water-resistant zip design combined with a storm flap. I found that this was more than adequate to keep off the kind of light rain or splashes you’re likely to encounter in transit - presumably facilitated by the fact that the seams are all sealed. On the outside you’ve got pleasantly padded and removable shoulder straps and four grab handles - one at either side and one at each end. A nice touch is that the inner is coloured white, providing a little more light for when you’re rummaging around in its single compartment. When empty the entire duffel can be rolled into an appealingly small package.

■ www.arcteryx.com Verdict: Minimalist, yet well-built and sturdy.

Best for: Shorter trips.

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Eagle Creek Cargo Hauler Rolling Duffel 120l, £140 The 1750g weight rating might seem large, but for a piece of wheeled luggage of this capacity that’s actually very impressive.

Competing items with base weight ratings of 5kg+ were rejected from this test on the basis that a quarter of your standard baggage allowance is already taken up before you’ve added a single item to your bag. With this in mind, the Hauler Rolling Duffel is a great way to simply store a large volume of gear, whilst also being able to move it around transit areas with minimum effort. Not only does it offer the decently oversized wheels (complete with wide tow handle), but also detachable shoulder straps and excellent padded grab handles at the side and bottom of the bag. Whilst waterproofing isn’t its main focus, the outer fabric is both tough wearing (despite being relatively slender) and bears a water resistant coating.

There are two compartments on offer here: with the giant main body being supplemented by a surprisingly spacious rectangular section near the tow handle. No compression straps, sadly, but for wheeled outdoor luggage this is a strong choice. ■ www.eaglecreek.eu Verdict: Wheeled, versatile and cavernous. The more traditional option.

Best for: General airport use.

FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 49

GEAR GUIDE

Cutting Edge A pick of four of the more interesting new products on the market.

Thule Versant 60l rucksack £175 There’s no escaping the Versant’s weight rating, which at 1880g is rather high for a 60 litre rucksack.

It is, however, apparent where that weight has gone, as there are plenty of adjustments and added features here which allow much customisation to your tastes. There’s the torso and hipbelt settings (which are lengthened or shortened by the simple use of hook and loop patches), there’s the addition of an in-built waterproof rain cover (which combines with a bottom liner to make the bag “fully weather proof”), and there’s a click-on/click-off roll-top pouch which fits at your hip for quick access items. Throw in the detachable top lid which converts into a snazzy satchel and you get an impression of just how comprehensive an affair this ‘sack is. It’s not going to appeal to any minimalists or more technical users, clearly, but the broad array of pouches and pockets (as well as adequate stowage loops for axes or walking poles) will appeal to the general multi-day user.

The levels of padding are fairly good, and the cavernous main compartment swallows as much gear as the capacity suggests. DA ■ www.thule.com VERDICT: Neither technical nor lightweight, but should prove a well-featured workhorse.

BEST FOR: A week’s trek.

Dannah Women’s Alpine Jacket £320 It’s not often that we report on a new brand, especially a British one launching in the competitive field of waterproofs.

Dannah are aiming high, with shells designed for the harshest of conditions. Interestingly, the men’s version of the Alpine jacket uses Porelle Dry, whilst the women’s is built from Microporous Soft Touch. Both are three layer ripstop with a microporous membrane and PFC free. I’m told they perform in a similar way, with a softer handle in the women’s version that was favoured by female testers. There’s a very defined stretch in the fabric, great for freedom of movement. First impressions are good - if you like big pockets, and like carting about a full OS map and lots of munchies, then this is the shell for you. The hood design is unusual with twin adjusters at the back but I like the peak and the way the hood hugs my face. The cut is generous, longer than I prefer, and I would drop a size from my usual size 12, but there are no problems with the jacket riding up when climbing. It’s a mid-weight shell at 480g, but there’s no skimping on features such as zipped internal pockets and pit zips. I’ve not had my sample long, but I’ve already worn it on a dry but strenuous hill day and found the breathability to be good under those conditions. I’m looking forward to putting it through its paces over the coming weeks. LW ■ www.dannah.uk.com Verdict: Generously fitted no-nonsense hard shell.

Best for: Year round hill walking.

50 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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GEAR GUIDE

Bergans Eidfjord jacket £280 The Eidfjord is made of a polyester fabric called Ecodear, notable for the fact that about 30% of it is made from recycled sugar product. It’s a press story which writes itself, as the idea of making a waterproof jacket out of a household good many of us regularly dissolve in our tea is a pleasing one.

However, if you were unaware of its backstory you’d know no different - the Eidfjord is a solid, breathable, waterproof hard shell that leans towards the weighty side but that provides a good amount of reliably built features and an impressive 20,000mm+ hydrostatic head rating via its 3-layer Dermizax fabric. That weight figure is 675g, which will raise eyebrows amongst lightweight purists, but for that you get pit zips, hem drawcords, four pockets (the bottom two sadly obscured by rucksack belts and harnesses) and a multi-way adjustable hood with a very long non-wired peak. The big story remains the impressive eco credentials, with the use of recycled materials reducing the need for fresh petroleum-based materials in production. Bravo. DA ■ www.bergans.com VERDICT: A meaty, general use hard shell with excellent eco credentials.

BEST FOR: Winter rainstorms on non-technical terrain.

Petzl Reactik+ Headtorch £85 Gone are the days when a cutting edge headtorch had a simple on-off button, and if you were lucky, a couple of brightness settings. The latest offering from Petzl has customisable modes, Bluetooth connectivity and an app that monitors burn time and battery life. The Reactik+ is also a powerful head torch with a reactive lighting mode that adapts beam length and brightness to the optimum required based on object proximity. The basics are there, it is reasonably light at 115g, tough, water resistant, and has a comfortable strap that cradles the head or a helmet. It comes with a rechargeable Lithium ion battery, and a standard battery pack is also available to purchase for longer adventures. The data is good, with up to 300 lumens for 2.5 hours burn time at max power, down to a leisurely 30 lumens/35m beam for 15 hours on the autonomy setting for constant (non reactive) lighting. The Reactik technology is also available at a lower price without the Bluetooth feature, but having the custom modes is useful. I’ve been running it on Multi-activity for general hillwalking, but as we move in to winter I like the Mountaineering setting for its big blast of power to get you off the hill. Other modes include Trailrunning, Trekking and Bivouac. However, I’d advise downloading the app and doing a test run before committing to buy. I had no problems with IOS 10.1, but my archaic Android 4.4.2 smartphone, although “compatible”, won’t communicate. LW Verdict: Powerful and entertaining head torch.

Best for: Single day adventures that start and/or finish in the dark.

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 51

TRIED AND TESTED

Tried & Tested Experienced mountain guide Martin Moran speaks to Chantelle Kelly. independence that comes with running my own business.

Are there any brands you particularly trust or would recommend?

Mountain Equipment have supported me with clothing and sleeping bags for the past sixteen years and I’ve kept faith with them because their gear is of a high and consistent standard, without being over-showy or overpriced. In technical winter kit I am a devotee of Petzl axes and crampons. I switch between Scarpa and La Sportiva for my boots - they are rivals and as such must keep their products to the highest standard to maintain market share.

Can you introduce yourself?

I am long-lapsed Chartered Accountant and a long-active British Mountain Guide, I have directed my climbing school in the mountains of the Northwest Highlands for thirty years.

You run a mountain guide business Moran Mountain, offering holidays and courses. What kit do you regularly use?

I go through a pair of boots and set of climbing ropes roughly every year.

For Scotland, top-quality shell clothing is vital. I have four pairs of boots to cover my range of activities - summer scrambling boots for the Cuillin Ridge, lightweight but stiffened leather boots for alpine guiding, insulated winter and ice climbing boots with integrated gaiter, and double-boots for my Himalayan trips.

Why did you decide to turn your passion into a career, and did you find the transition difficult?

At the age of 28 I was looking at a comfortable but bleak future as an accountant, but expending all my passion in the mountains. The idea of earning my living on the hills came naturally, and when I tried guiding as an apprentice I enjoyed the role of being a teacher and coach. The financial challenge of moving to Scotland and earning a living from guiding was rather hard. There were some tough years at the start, but I never lost my sense of privilege to be in the mountains full-time, and I have loved the 52 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

What’s your favourite location for climbing?

I love the mountains of Skye and Torridon in winter conditions - they are wild, gaunt and flanked by the ocean; nothing can beat maritime mountains. Arctic Norway is another favourite area for the same reasons, and I seem endlessly enthused for pioneering ventures in the heart of the Indian Himalaya.

What’s your must-have piece of kit for a day on the mountains?

I have several ‘never-forget’ accessories - a pair of trekking poles to ease my worn knee joints, a soluble rehydration tablet for the end of the day, weather-proof fleece-lined Mountain Equipment Pinnacle mittens - a guaranteed insurance against cold and wind, a map - however well I know the route, and a handkerchief. I don’t sweat on the hill much but have a permanent drippy nose!

You’ve completed a number of firsts, including 14 first ascents in the Himalayas, what’s been your greatest achievement?

It is invidious to pick out an individual route. I suppose I am proudest that I have kept up my enthusiasm for my own climbing right through to my seventh decade. It is easy to let the personal dimension slip when you work on the mountains for your job but I’ve always battled to find space for my own challenges. That is something I admire in the regular clients whom I guide. Many have young families and highly demanding careers but they refuse to let the flame die.

For more information, visit Martin’s website www.moran-mountain.co.uk and Facebook page www.facebook.com/MoranMountain. www.mountainpromag.com

There were some tough years at the start, but I never lost my sense of privilege to be in the mountains full-time

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 53

tall tales

The Yellow-Eyed Bird of Glen Dubh Lighe A bothy based yarn by writer and playwright John Burns

T

he big man grunted as he drove the shovel into the earth, his breath misting in the cold winter air. His two

little mound of earth and its dark secret.

The seeds of what happened that morning had been planted in

companions watched the spade rise and fall as the mound

the dark of the night before. John was dozing before the bothy fire,

of soil grew. They stood beside the pile of earth, one stocky

a generous mug of whisky balanced on his paunch, when the door

and bald, the other a thin and mouse-like creature with black hat

had rattled open. Nigel walked in from the black, wet night and

crammed on to his head. Every few moments the small man’s eyes

stood for a moment, melting snow dripping on to the wooden floor.

would dart into the surrounding forest and he would scan the snow-

“Nice bothy,” Nigel had said, by way of greeting, his eyes taking

covered fir trees in the steep-sided valley. He searched uncertain of

in the woodwork of the bothy walls gleaming in the candle light.

what he might find but fearful of anything that might be watching

“Shinny!”

him from the dark of the woodland. At last the big man, sweating

John, stirred from his slumbers as he became aware of the soggy

and blowing from his efforts, stepped back from the heap of dark

figure in the doorway. He was roused into action by the newcomer

earth and drove the spade into the ground with an unmistakable

and rose to meet him as one might an honoured guest, after all

finality. The three stood in silence for moment staring forlornly at his

the night would be long and dark and here was some welcome

handy work.

company. “A dram?” John’s arm extended proffering in his hand a

“Perhaps,” the small man stammered, “we should say a few words.” There was a pause as each man looked to the others to speak. “John, you’re good with words, you say something”.

John spat into the ground, zipped up his red jacket, as the wind

battered aluminium bottle, the veteran of many nights of lawless revelry.

Nigel drew back as though John’s fingers held a belligerent rattlesnake. “Oh, no I don’t thank you.” He grinned apologetically,

had suddenly grown cold, and turned to the wee man. “Nigel, what’s

sensing that this was not the reply the bothy dweller had been

done is done. We can’t change anything with words.” Then John

hoping for. “And besides, tomorrow is my 225th Munro. Clear head

grew sombre and drew the little group about him. “We must never

required.”

ever speak of this to our dying days. Not a word to anyone.” Nigel

John turned back towards the fire and stared hard into the

whimpered at little but nodded in assent. The big man said nothing

glowing embers. He had little time for teetotallers and even less for

and John turned to him, grasped his sweat-stained waterproof, and

those who plodded the hills ticking off the list of odious Sir Hugo

drew him near. “Not a word, Kev. We’ve done a terrible thing.”

Munro. “Oh Christ!” he muttered to himself, the night had just grown

Big Kev shrugged, “Aye, a ken fine.” His face wet from sweat and the melting snowflakes that were falling in ever-increasing flurries, beading in his grey curly hair.

“What did he say?” Nigel asked in his shrill south of England accent.

John turned and began walking back to the bothy. “He’ll say nothing,” he called over his shoulder. “I think we all need a brew.”

As the three men walked slowly back to the bothy the glen fell

darker and longer still. He picked up the poker and rammed it with venom into the glowing coal.

Nigel busied himself unpacking his neatly folded clothes from his rucksack an uncomfortable silence slowly filling the little shelter. “I heard this bothy burnt down a few years ago, accident with a gas canister.”

John laughed, his back to the room, stirring into the fire. “That’s what they tell everyone. That’s the story the Mountain Bothies

back into silence, save from for the wind tugging at the tops of the

Association made up. Truth is it was burnt down by a jealous woman

pines and water babbling in the half-frozen river. The scene was as it

who caught her lover here having a secret fling with another

had been for countless years past. Glen Dubh Lighe, deep and quiet,

woman.”

hidden from the world, a place of winter frosts and summer rains, a tranquil gentle place save for one small thing. Save, that is, for the 54 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

Nigel paused in his unpacking, incredulous at what he’d been told.

“Is that the truth?” www.mountainpromag.com

“I met her once.” John paused, his mind travelling to distant

The Munroist cowered in a corner. John would have fled too but

hillside many years distant. “She told me she was so mortified by

the whisky was beginning to take effect and he was having difficulty

what she’d done she vowed to build the bothy back up. Spent hours

rising. The visitor moaned in frustration, heaved against the door,

sanding the place, polishing the wood. That’s why it gleams so much.

letting out a string of unintelligible oaths in an awful guttural tongue

I wouldn’t want to cross her, not the woman who burned down Glen

that could only be Aberdonian. The huge figure heaved again and,

Dubh Lighe.”

just when it seemed he might burst the doorway apart, he hurtled

At that moment a light flashed across the bothy window from

into the room followed closely by his massive pack.

outside. Seconds later something bear-like followed the light and

The grey-suited figure stood grinning for a moment and said,

the sound of the front door of the bothy bursting open reached the

“Muckle fir ma backpack twa yon door, ya ken.” This was probably

two men in the small room. This was followed by something heavy

some kind of greeting for, despite his ominous size, the giant looked

colliding with the bothy walls, until finally, the door of their inner

amiable enough. He unbuckled his pack which, freed from its bonds,

sanctum flew open. A figure filled the doorway, it was a man, for

hurtled into the floorboards with a sickening crunch that made the

sure, but a huge individual. He bent himself almost double in an

whole bothy shudder. Gleefully the behemoth plunged into his

effort to heave himself through the doorway and, although he got

rucksack and began pulling from it numerous tins of beer, bottles

most of his body through, his massive backpack wedged itself firmly

of wine, a whole ham and a cold chicken, and a gigantic sack of coal

in the opening.

which he dumped beside the fire.

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FEBRUARY 2017 | Mountain Pro 55

tall tales

Muttering to himself he thrust one can of beer into John’s hands and another into the Munroist’s, before opening one of the cans and

We must never ever speak of this to our dying days.

Not a word to anyone.

downing it in several enormous gulps. Nigel was about to make his 225th Munro speech and but he looked up at the creature towering over him and decided that a few sips were unlikely to prove as dangerous as spurning the proffered hospitality.

The newcomer could understand whatever was said to him in English even if his responses sounded like the last gasps of a drowning man. The colossus answered to the name, Big Kev. This may not have been his name but it sufficed to get his attention so no further enquiries into the man’s identity were needed.

The night progressed as many do in lonely bothies in the hills.

The fire grew higher as Big Kev waded through his inexhaustible supply of beer. Communication was limited but they got by with sign language and mime. The Munroist giving a very passable imitation of a chicken being roasted over a fire when John asked him what

wide with fear. “Ach a boodie!”

There, pressed hard against the icy window pane, were a pair of

flavour crisps he was eating. Gradually a debate developed between

yellow eyes peering into to the bothy. All three men froze as the

John and Nigel as to the merits of following lists on the hills. Nigel

creature turned and headed for the door. There was the chilling

devoted to his Munros and their tops John refusing to have his

sound of the bothy’s front door being opened and then something

wanderings regulated by anyone else, even the long dead Hugo

moving down the short corridor towards room where the three men

Munro.

sat.

The Munroist grew agitated. “Tell me now John, how many have you done? You must know how many Munros.”

“I climb hills, not Munros, I’ve no idea,” John replied, irritated as the Munroist pressed him.

Nigel hesitated for a moment, unable to grasp the idea of climbing

“Beep, beep,” came the call and the door swung open. Into the room came a thing made of metal, two glowing yellow lights on its head and, between them, a round cold-eyed camera lens. The Munroist scrambled into the corner behind the coal bucket. John leapt from his chair and hurled his fist at the thing. The blow would

hills with no goal in view. “But you can’t just go climbing hills…

normally have killed anything it hit but the whisky and beer had

randomly! What’s the point?”

taken their toll and instead his fist arched wildly through the air

“There is no point,” John insisted, half rising from his chair in indignation. “That is the point.”

There was an awkward silence and the Munroist excused himself for a moment to go outside into the snow and rid himself of the beer big Kev had pressed on him. The pair who remained were silently

missing the alien thing by a foot or more. The momentum carried the inebriate round and he collapsed to the floor, overturning the bothy table on his way down, and finding himself battered by an avalanche of pots and pans, candles and beer cans.

The creature took all of this in with its artificial eye. It saw Nigel

warming their legs by the glowing embers when Nigel burst back

attempting to make himself invisible, it saw John struggling to

into the room.

extricate himself from beneath the mountain of bothy dweller’s

“There’s something out there!” he cried the snowflakes from the

accoutrements. It saw the fire and the candles, and the overturned

blizzard outside melting on his jacket. “I saw a pair of yellow eyes

chairs but it did not see everything. It did not see Big Kev behind the

watching me from the forest.”

door with the bothy’s toilet spade raised over his head. It did not

Outside the bothy the trio raked the darkness with their head torches but saw only the falling snow and the ranked tress of the forest. “Nothing,” Nigel stammered. “I heard it, it went beep beep.”

“Beep, beep Nigel!” John winked at Big Kev. “That settles it. You must have seen the Yellow-Eyed Bird of Glen Dubh Lighe!”

Back in the bothy Nigel’s objections to drinking whisky were

see him step out of the shadows and summon all his strength for the blow.

The men stood in silence staring at the little robot. It made no sound but shuddered slightly as sparks flickered where its ears might have been. Smoke drifted out from its carcass before the little yellow lights in its head flickered and died. Then all was quiet as the

dispelled by his encounter with the bird and he held his mug in

creature stood in the bothy, cold and silent, a great flat dent in its

trembling hands as he swallowed the fiery liquid. “I’ve never heard

head just above the words painted in yellow, GOOGLE BOTHY.

of this Yellow-Eyed Bird before.”

“It’s not talked about, kept a secret by those who know,” John

So now if you walk up the little glen, over the rickety wooden bridge to where the bothy stands, and make your way down towards

explained as Big Kev stifled a chuckle. “Prehistoric you see, like the

the river, you will find a small mound of earth that looks somehow

monster of Loch Ness, if word got out the glen would become a

out of place. And if the wind is still, and the brook low and quiet, you

tourist attraction and we wouldn’t want that.”

can press your ear against the incongruous mound. If you do all that,

They fell to talking about monsters and creatures that walk in the

you may just hear, so quiet you might think it your imagination, a

night and after a while forgot all about the bird that Nigel had seen.

muffled, “Beep, beep.” For that is all that remains of the Yellow-Eyed

Forgot, that is, until Big Kev glanced at the window and his eyes grew

Bird of Glen Dubh Lighe.

56 Mountain Pro | FEBRUARY 2017

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