Class
_., ^f^
Copyright
N"
COPYKIGIIT DEPOSIT.
\
J. H. "PROUD
-
THE Americanized French
Method
Cutting
BY
PROUD
A. H.
This simple method
is
The
given by short measures.
for drafting the various up-to-date styles of
correct proportions of sizes
eight different diagrams in this text book,
Copyrighled 1906 by
and
coats, vests
A. H.
all
of
Proud. Chicago.
1906
CHICAGO. ILLINOIS
Illin
pants.
which are
There
and
full
instructions
are twenty
illustrated.
ILIBRARY5reO«3HES3 Two
Coplss Received
OCT 27 1906 T.
CMyrleM
Entry
^W^i", CLAsilA
'
7"
XXC,
la
NO,
/NDEX Preface
5
The Measuring
of the
Man
6
Table of Coat Proportions
7
Single Breasted Sack
8-9
Double Breasted Sack
10-"
The Corpulent Form Sack
12-13
Military Blouse
H-iS
Tuxedo
1^-17
The
18-19
Sleeve
Bon Jour Coat
—"Morning Coat"
20-21
The Corpulent Form Cutaway
22-23
French Frock Coat
24-25
Dress Coat
26-27
Bon
Clerical
Police
28-29
Coat— "Day Coat"
Soir
30-31
Coat
32*33
Uniform Coat
Full
Box Overcoat
34-35
Bell
Bottom French Overcoat
36-37
Flowing French Paletot
38-39
French Surtout
40-41
Paddock
42-43
French Ulster
44-45
Inverness
4^-47
French Waistcoat
48-49
Double Breasted Vest
50-51
Vest for
Corpulent Form
52-53
Full Dress Vest
54-55
Easy Method Trousers
56-57
The Peg Top Trousers
58-59
The Corpulent Form Trousers
60-61
Riding Breeches Proportion Table for Trousers
,
.
.;
62-63 64
PREFACE At
no period
\
/
in
keen
is
American pubhc has
the history of the
French Metod
A
advancement.
simple method of easy cutting
for
respect, as
prohibits the cutter from troubling
it
essentially a practical
is
The
knowledge
the competitive spirit of the age that supreme
the struggle
This
the necessity of an "Americanized-
Cutting " been so imperative to cutters as at the present
of
ambition
American
give every
to
is
simple method
There
is
the
many I
is
an aid
self
teaching of
all
is
that
it is
due
in
to the often
method by
and used the same system by inches (one inch the
same
until
the present time.
be no mistake made and necessary to introduce it
is
it
this
is
I
find this
very simple
book
to the
book:
of this text
centimeter.
important matter
First of
is
1881
of exact
came
1
and perhaps
all
like myself,
Previous to
years.
and
in this
instructors.
by the method
In
invaluable
treasure of
simple, progressive
repeated request of cutters who,
America about twenty-four
cutting in France, using the French
is
garment cutting without the aid of
fascinating hours in the study of successful cutting
have now been cutting
it
An
from exact mathematics.
in diverting
are several reasons for the existence
the greatest reason
spent
it
in
and explanations
lines
a
cutter
knowledge, a manual of study and a work of reference; and while interesting in style,
all
the best system in every
is
many
with
brain
So
day.
necessary to
and up-to-date method.
the writer
of
his
is
this
to the
have
mathematics time
1
was
United States
equal to two and a half centimeters), continuing
method
to
be correct
American
cutter as
its
There can
every particular.
in
when you once thoroughly understand
it.
believe
1
methods give the best
results,
it
and
easy to adopt and eminently practical.
All that
is
required
is
a careful, attentive study of
its
undeviating
rules,
and
result will follow
as certain as a correct result follows true calculations in mathematics.
Hoping forth I
on
its
that the cutters of
own ments
America
and, whether
have performed a work that
1
it
love,
will
lives
gain pleasure
or dies,
and
profit
shall at least
1
and sincerely hope
it
will
be
from
this
book,
have the pleasure of
of
great benefit to
my
craftsmen.
Yours
respectfully,
A. H.
1
PROUD.
put
it
knowmg fellow
The Measuring BEFORE measuring
the customer,
How
or
Use
right place.
and
better to see that the sides of the vest are not loose.
it is
of
Then
To
where
it
is
Put the
line
Measure
to at
down
place the square under the arm with the long end
First,
the
Pro-
for the hip.
down and
Now
desire.
parallel
under the arm square with the tape attached
little
front to the
back button
for
Place
:
Then
measure.
the strap
with the arm,
measure from the socket bone
the scye depth, then to the natural and fashionable waist line and then to the
from
the
to the measure.
measure sleeve length as long as customer may
using a
of square
around the natural waist and mark
waist hollow part of the back just above the hip bone, then six inches
the
bone or the point above
find the socket
necessary for the seam of coat collar to come.
get the waist length:
in
is
under the right
making a chalk mark above top
tight nor too loose,
back and across the center seam.
collar button
scye depth.
First place the square
the ordinary division square.
arms neither too
left
on each side
ceedmg
Measure
to
necessary pin up both sides of the vest and see that the center seam of back
If
back
Man
the
of
it
full
to
Now
length.
under the arm and measure
without removing square get over
shoulder measure, front and under the arm, over the blade bone to the center seam of back for the blade measure.
Then
breast measure
:
Pass the tape
line close
under the arms with tape over the most
Waist, hollow part of back and
prominent part of blade bone neither too tight nor too loose.
around
largest part of
The method
seat.
All measures are taken over the
principal foundation of cutting
in this
book
gives
all
drafts
by
is
vest.
the breast and also the short measures.
The
simple
short measures.
THE VEST If
measured
for a suit, all that
is
needed
is
the
openmg and
full
length measure, side and back.
THE TROUSERS Measure the outside seam from hip bone trousers thigh,
well
drawn up and measure from
knee and bottom.
If
the figure
is
to the
top of heel.
For the inseam have the
the crotch to the top of heel.
corpulent, measure from the crotch
Then
the waist, hip,
up over the stomach
for the rise. In the trousers the principal thing
the pants.
If
is
the seat measure
these measures are well taken
it
never
fails
which
to
gives the regular proportions to
make a
perfect
fit.
THE OVER COAT All over coats should be drafted from two to three inches larger than the regular breast measure, according to the material used.
THE AUTHOR.
Table
Before
I
commence
the
instructions,
I
herewith give you a table of proportions.
measures are a guide for correct proportions as taken on the
measures
for the
Coats
of Proportions for
vest,
and
m
making as follows:
To To
Scye depth,
.
.
3-4 inch
Blade,
.
1
1-2 inch
Breast
.
To To
.
3-4 inch
Overshoulder,
3-4 inch
Strap,
The
following
applying should be added to the
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
SINGLE BREASTED SACK following measures are the additions for making:
The
To To
depth
This draft
is
^
inches
i;-4
inches
scye....
blade
9M
inches
17^
inches
23 inches
Full length
Strap lines
A
to
is
C
is
A A
B
A E
9^
A
and
1 1
33 inches 5^ inches
17M
D
is
hip length 23 inches.
E
is
full
Draw
a line from
F
to
i
H H
square
down
breast 19
is
I-I2 breast measure.
is
J4 breast
K
to J
M
to
is
J4 inch. 54 of breast
L
is
W
to
the strap measure iij4 inches net.
X
to get
V.
J4 inch.
is
G
to
to 19 to
U
1-6 breast measure.
is
54 inch less than
is
R
to S.
Shape the gorge, shoulder, arm scye and the front edge from 19 through P 6 and 7.
to 12.
is
of waist.
5/2
2 to 5 Js 54 of waist.
in.
8 to 5 is I inch. 9 to 10 is yi of Sieat. II to
10
is 2!/2
inches.
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 30 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
measure.
is
to
X
X
1
I
L
40 inches to I
5 to 6 full
to J
J to
34 inches
Seat
Y X
to
to
Waist
W
in J4 inch.
G is ^ inch. From G to H is half of H to O is 2^ inches. O to P is lV4 inches. B
13 inches
38 inches
Apply the overshoulder measure plus }i inch from
to the star dot is 54 inch.
At C go
inches
is i8j4 inches. 4 and J to Square out from to Y.
length 33 inches.
Square out from A B C D and E. is half way between A and B.
F B
^
.
....18^ inches
Overshoulder Blade Breast
V
to
.
and up to Draw a line from F
inches.
to
54 inches
(*)
overshoulder.
Apply
Z.
inches the depth of scye.
waist length
strap
produced by the following measurements with the allowances
Depth scye Waist length Hip
Square
To To
measure.
Finish as represented.
J4 inch.
Square down from J through 5 to get 9. Apply blade measure from G to J 11% plus iVa inches, 13
THE COLLAR.
inches and square up.
Draw a line down from M and up from From L to N is ij4 inches
N T A Q
to
T
to
S
to
Q R
to
is
L.
J4 of breast.
is
J4 inch.
is
54 inch
is
s/s
Draw
a creased line from 21 to
17 to IS
16 to
1-6 of breast.
is
Shape the
15.
154 inches.
is
IS
18 to 20
more than
is
154
1%
inches.
inches.
collar
and
finish as represented.
inch.
a line from R to S. Square down from to 30 and shape the back. Measure the back A to R.
Draw
M
•if
you measure the strap from A to R and G to X there % of an inch added. But when you measure A to R and I to X there is no allowance.
should be
from
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
I.
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
DOUBLE BREASTED SACK This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowance>
Depth scye Waist length Hip length Full length
A E
Square
lines
to
B
is
C
is
waist length
A A
g%
A
and
inches
Over shoulder
18%
inches
Blade
13
inches
inches
Bileast
38
inches
inches
Waist Seat"
34
inches
40
inches
,..23
........ 33
iiVa inches.
Strap
A
9% >I7%
Apply
Z.
-Draw a
inches. ;
to
D
is
hip length 23 inches.
to
E
is
full
length 33 inches.
A B C D and half way between A and B. the star dot is % inch.
Square out from
E.
to
O
is
O
to
P
is
H H
to J
to I
J, to
L
M
is
J
is
to
L
inches.
1-3 of breast
%
inch.
11^
plus
Draw a From L
to
inches
i>4
line
to
T
N
is
5
to get 9.
X
to
and square and up from L.
M
X
to get
V.
%
is
X
%
inch from 9 to 4
to Y.
1-6 breast measure.
is
U
inch less than
R
to S. scye.
of waist.
5 to 6 is
J/2
2 to 5
is
1-3 of waist.
8 to 2
is
i9i inches.
to
inch.
I
1-3 of seat.
is
Y
iG to 6
to J.
inches
13
down from
2^
is
inches.
20 to 23
inches for the double breasted addition.
the same.
7 to IS is up.
2%
is
is
13%
IS
inches.
2 inches.
Shape the front edge from 20
to 15.
Finish as represented.
% of breast. T to S ^ inch. A to Q ^ inch more than Q to R % inch. N
to 23
P
Square down from J through Apply blade measure from G
to
Shape the side and forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
of breast measure.
%
Y
IT to 10
measure.
V2 inch.,
is
is
THE COLLAR.
is
is
1-6 of breast.
is
a line from Square down from
R
to
M
to 3
Measure the back'
A
to
Draw
S.
and shape the back.
R.
inches
inch.
is
9 to 10
1-12 breast measure.
is
F
from
line
to
Shape the gorge, shoulder and arm
iJ4 inches.
is
K
to
2%
the strap measure 11V2
W % Apply the overshoulder measure plus and J to W 18% inches. V
Square out from
F is B to Draw a line from F to i square down to 24. B to G is Vi inch. From G to H is half of full breast 19 inches.
H
X
and up to
I
net.
inches depth scye.
17%
to
inches
Draw
a creased
hne from 16
17 to 19
is
iVi inches.
18 to 17
is
1%
22 to 23
is
to
15.
inches.
iVz inches.
Shape the collar and
finish
as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
II.
11
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
12
THE CORPULENT FORM SACK DOUBLE AND SINGLE BREASTED This drafl
is
produced by the followins
Depth sc>e Waist length Hip length length
Full
Strap
Square
AE
lines
A
to
B
C
is
waist length
A
to
A*"to
10%
is
D E
A
and
A
% to
to
O
is
2V4 inches.
P
is
154 inches. Vg breast
E.
square
down
to
N
to to
S
A
to
Q
to
Q R
T
is
is
is
P
inch
more than
to 3
a
W
line is
%
from inch.
1-3 of breast
X
F
to
scye.
measure.
1-3 of seat.
is
is
Vs
to
of seat.
to
the
for
16 to 6
double
breasted
addi-
is is
the same.
1%
of breast measure.
strap
measure
get
V.
inches.
Finish the front edge of double breasted sack as repre15.
After cutting the forepart cut
1-6 of breast.
the
inches
2V4
is
iji
from
31
to 30 the scye
to
down on
the straight
from 31 to 34. from 26 to 28 and overlap 27 to 29 for large .forms, reshape the bottom from 32 to IS, as gives a good result, and the fullness is thrown to the bottom.
Draw
a
Draw
a creased line from 16 and 21 to
line
THE COLLAR. 13
inches
arm
the pocket and open the
cut at the scye
and shape the back.
X
to S.
inch.
I
7 to IS
line
net.
to
^
sented from 20 to
to R.
to
R
inch less than
of breast measure.
to S.
M
Draw
inches
inch.
Draw a line from R Square down from Measure the back A Apply to I and up
V
1%
inch.
%
V4
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
inch.
5/^
G
tion.
N is 1% inches. ^ inch more than ^
%
is
from
Finish the front edge of single breasted sack from 22
Square down from J through 5 to get 9. Apply blade measure from G to J 12% plus 1414 inches and square up. Draw a line down from JNI and up from L.
T
inch
to 25 as represented.
J4 inch.
to
9 to 10
12.
measure.
54 of breast measure.
From L
is
is
%
1-6 breast measure.
is
U
is
is
%
to
8 to 2
is is
to 22
Shape the gorge, shoulder and arm 2 to 5
J
L
Y X
inch.
K
to
W
5 to 6 is
i.
inches
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 20% inches. 4 and J to Square out from X to Y.
and B.
L
M
inches
inches.
J to to
43
measure.
1-3 breast
is
Seat
of breast 21 inches.
to
is
inches
inches
13
10 to II
O
to J
inches
40
inch.
I
H
to I
42
Waist
33
inches.
C D and
Draw a line from F B to G is 54 incli. From G to H is half
H H
Breast
inches
23%
Z.
23%
to the star dot is in
inches
inches
to
18%
Square out from A B G is half way between
B
inches
l85'2
length 32 inches.
is full
At C go
20% 14^
inches
inches.
hip length
is
measurements with the allowances Overshoulder Blade
10%
17 to 19
is
ig to 18
is
23 to 24
is
17.
iVi inches,
1%
inches.
i>2 inches.
Shape the collar and
finish as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
III.
13
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
14
MILITARY BLOUSE This draft
Square
A
to
C
is
A A
A E
lines
B
and
A
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances
inches
Overshoulder Blade Breast
38
inches
31
inches
Waist
34
inches
12%
inches
Seat
40
inches
Depth scye Waist length
lo
inches
i8
inches
Hip length
24
Full length
Strap 18.
10 inches the depth scye.
is
D
is
to
E
is full
length 31 inches.
to the star dot is
At C go
%
in
%
P
H H L
square full
to
I
is
Vs breast measure.
to J
is
1-3 of breast
is
to
N
to
is
breast 19 inches,
measure.
to to
U V
a line from
Z
to
%
is
F
to
X
to get Y.
inch.
to 19
Vi inch less than
is
R
to
%
is
M
to
J.
is
^2 inch
is
V2 inch.
more than
1-6 of breast,
%
8
is
is
I
6
is
4 inches.
5 to
the same.
3 to s
is
V.
scye.
of waist.
6 to 7
7 to
from
inch.
8 to 9
is
inch
^- of breast.
is
19 to 20
%
1-6 of breast.
is
W
to
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
M S
1-6 of breast.
inch.
more than }4 of breast measure.
Square down from J through 8 to get 11. Apply blade measure from G to J 12 plus iVa inches 13V2 inches and square up. Draw a line down from O and up from M. to J is 1-6 breast measure.
U
%
inch.
iJ4 inches. is
is
more than
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 4 and J to Z 1954 inches. Square out from X to 22.
X X
inch.
way between
half
N O
^ %
is
Vi inch
22 to 20
^
M
to 21.
3 inches,
is
is
to J
down
to
I
K
Draw
Y
inch.
to
J to
M
P
to
to
is
net.
inch.
Draw a line from F to i B to G is % inch. From G to H is half of
H
Q
Q R
a line from R to W. Square down from O to T and shape the back. Measure the back A to R. Apply to I and up to X the strap measure 12% inches
hip length 24 inches.
Square out from A B C D and E. F is half way between A and B.
B
to
13^2 inches
Draw
waist length 18 inches.
to
A
ig^A inches
Vs of waist.
%
inch.
inch,
11 to 12 is 1-3 of seat.
13 to 12
is 2;/2
inches.
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 14 to 16 pivoting at X. Shape the front edge from 20 through i, 10 and Cut the fish out from L to 17 as represented.
16.
G
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
IV.
15
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
16
TUXEDO PEAKED AND SINGLE LAPEL This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances
Depth scye Waist length Hip length Full
length
lines
A
to
is
C
is
A A
to
D
to
E
B
A E
9%
A
Overshoulder
i8V4 inches
23
inches
Blade Breast
38
inches
32
inches
Waist
34
inches
Seat
40
inches
17%
Draw
V
length 32 inches.
full
Square out from A B C D and E. F is half way between A and B.
G
to
O
5 to
O
to
P
is
lyi inches.
6 to 18
to
I
is
Vs breast measure.
2 to 5
to J
L
M
K
to J to
L
1-3 breast measure.
is
%
to 19
is
V2 inch
U
is
%
to
6
inch.
Square down from J through S to get g. Apply blade measure from G to J 11V2 plus 1V2 inches 13 inches and square up. and up from L. Draw a line down from
%
is
N T
A Q
to to
to to
T is L is
Q R
N
to
is is
is
V. plus
more than
8 to 2
%
to S. scye.
1-3 of waist.
is
inch.
I
1-3 of seat.
is
II to 10
is
2'/2
inches.
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 7 pivoting at X. Shape the front edge from 20 to 7 as represented.
THE COLLAR. Draw
inch.
% %
inch
more than
1-6 of breast.
a line
inch.
inch
a creased line
17 to 15
is
15 to 16 is
19 to 21
is
Shape the
jH
from
14 to 15.
inches.
i]4
inches.
iVa inches. collar
and
finish
from
1-6 of breast measure.
R
Vi of breast. ;/2
inches
of waist.
iVa inches.
from R to S. Square down from M to 3 and shape back.
Draw
to get
inch less than
M
From L
li'/2
1]4 inches.
is
is
9 to 10
of breast measure.
Vi
is
.
inch.
'/2
X
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
2V4 inches.
is is
to
W
H
J to
measure
inch.
Apply the overshoulder measure to 4 and J to 1854 inches. Square out from X to Y.
Y X
H H
%
is
F
from
a line
W
to
B to the star dot is % inch. Draw a line from F to I square down to 22. B to G is % inch. From G to H is half of full breast 19 inches. is
strap
net.
inches.
hip length 23 inches.
is
inches
13
Measure the back A to R. Apply to I and up to X the
Z.
inches the depth scye.
waist length
is
and
inches inches
11V2 inches
Strap
Square
9% 17%
as
represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
V.
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
THE SLEEVES
Square
lines
A
is
G E
AB
A
and
C.
arm scye. G to is >4 arm scye. E to F is 1 inch and E to D is same. Square across from E D and F. E to H is >^ of arm .scye 9 inches. to
1-12
Draw a line from G to H. G to H is % inch more than Apply the length line to 1
J
N
to
1
to
K
is
L
to
G
to
is
half
M O
and
'4
arm
scye.
scjuare across
K
is 1 >4
Square
to J
inches. inches.
6^4
way between
line
from
N
is |4
inch.
IX
inch.
is
H
and
J.
to L.
P is X inch. 1 to Z is 1-6 of arm scye. Sweep from T to G, pivoting at Z. R to S is inch and S to T is same. V to N is >< inch and N to U is % inch to
-'4
1
Fini.sh as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
VI.
19
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
20
BON JOUR COAT This draft
is
produced by foUowins measurements with allowances
9%
Depth scye Natural waist Fashionable waist Full length Strap
Square lines
A
From
to
B
AE is
and
A
is
A A
to
D
is
fashionable waist
to
E
is
38 inches full length.
13X
Breast
38
Waist
34
inches inches inches
193,:|:
Z
inches.
to star dot to 8
go
is
U
and
Y
D
to
is
to 4
inch.
1-3 waist
inches.
measure.
of waist
,'A
1%
is
and
to 9
measure.
inch.
is -H is
measure.
inch.
j/2
same. inches. 9 to 10
is
C
the same as from
to 8
and
8
to V. full
Square down from 10 to get 21. Sweep from 12 to 13 pivoting at W.
breast
7
'
is 1-3
to 13
of breast
measure.
to
THE Place square at line 15 to 16
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11% plus IK inches 13X inches,
M to X is to
S
From
Draw From
V
is )i
inch.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus U inch from G to 30 and J to V IS-H' inches. to 23. Square out from 23 to 24 is yi inch more than 1-6 breast measure. Draw a line from U to 24 to get gorge.
W
W to T
is
X
inch less than
P
to Q.
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye.
and square down to
14.
from 12 through
to
is
a line to
17.
1-3
of breast
and square with the ,
14 to 17 IS y2
is }i
of seat measure.
inch
Crease the back spring line from 12 to
W
W
to
16.
of skirt as represented
14
5
17 to 19
a line from Q to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to Q, apply to 1 and up to the strap measure 12 inches net. to F to get U, Draw a line from
SKIRT. and
line 14,
inch more than 1-6 breast.
Draw
15
inch.
is yi
Shape the top and 13.
1-6 breast rrieasure.
to >^ inch leÂŤs than 1-6 breast measure.
R is >4 inch. From A to P is X P to Q is ^ inch.
5,
to 16
S to
U
to 3 is
6 to 7
inch.
in }i inch.
K to J is }i inch. L is haU way between M to K. K to M is '4 of breast measure.
X
1-6 waist
5 to 6 is the
a line up to F and down to E. the line inside of G to H is half of
N is 2^4 inches, N to O is IX H is 1-12 brea.st measure. H to K is 1-3 of breast measure. 1
"2
is
4 to 5
B.
19 inches.
H
is
V
4 to 3
BCD and E. A
to 8
8 to
natural waist 17^4 inches.
Square out from F is half way between
D
12
inches
C
C
Draw From
38
IS^*
depth of scye
to
B
19 i(
:
Overshoulder Blade
22.
9'^ inches the
A
At
U
17
inches inches inches inches inches
4
inch at 19. Shape the front of skirt, rounding
it
IS,
from
the bottom from 20 to 18. Finish as represented.
THE COLLAR. Draw
a crea.sed line trom 21 to 25. 27 to 25 is IX inches. 25 to 26 is II4' inches. 28 to 29
is I'yi
Shape the
inches.
collar,
and
finish as represented.
rounding 13 to 2
it
and
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
VII.
21
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
22
THE CORPULENT FORM CUTA^VAY This
UlX inches
Xatural waist Fashionable waist Full length. Strap
16^4 inches IS-?^:
inches
37
inches
14
inches
26.
is
1U>+ inches.
to
B C
is
natural waist,
to
D
is
fashionable waist
E
is full
to
by the following measuremetits with allowances
pr,i(iuced
Depth sfvc
A E and A
S()iiare lines
A A A A
(lr;ift is
1654;
inches.
IS5.4'
inches.
length 37 inches. and E. Square out from to
BCD
F is half way between A and B. B to the star dot is '^ inch. B to G is half of full breast 21 inches.
G
to
M
to
G to
M is Zyi N is H
I
to
I
to J
J to L to
inches. inches.
1 J'^
I is
1-3 of breast
^
is
L
is
K
measure.
of breast measure.
is >^
inch.
/4'
of breast measure.
is 2.'4
inches.
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from B to I 12|-4^ plus l}.4 inches 14>4 inches. L to Z is '4 inch more than 1-6 breast. Z to S is 1-6 breast measure S to R is 'A inch. From A to O is '4 inch more than 1-6 of breast. ()
P
to
is
4i inch.
Draw a line from P to R and shape the back. M'^asure the bick from A to P. Apply to 1 and up to X the strap measure 14 inches net.
Draw
V to
to
a line h-om
W
is
-'4
X
to
F
to get
V.
inch.
Apply the overshoukler measure 21 inches. O and I to Square out from X to 40.
W
40 to Z2
X
to 23
is is
1-6 breast
measure.
1-12 of breast.
jilus
-'+
inch from B
Overshoulder
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
VIII.
U
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
24
FRENCH FROCK COAT 'I'his
draft
is
produced by the following measurements with alUnvanees
Depth scye 9^ inches Natural waist 17?^ inches Fashionable waist....l9% inches inches 46 Full lensrth 12 inches Strap
Square
lines
A E and A
to I)
is
E
is
to
F B
is
half
BCD and
way between
%
to the star dot is
At
D
to 8 go in
Draw From
of scye.
A
the line inside of
34
inches
Z
18^^ inches
.
is
waist measure.
1-6
Z
of waist measure.
is 1-3
to 4
U
is
inch.
waist measure,
is J^
Sweep from
through
8
is
IX
12 to 35
is
1-3 of breast
and
to S
10 to
n
is
I
H J
to
to
N is 1-6 of breast H is l/i inch.
to J to
L
K
is
is
1-3 of breast
is >|
half
of full breast 19
measure.
to
P
is >S
I
U
to
V
is
U
net.
to
at line
is
12 to 17.
5,
33
SKIRT. and 34 and square down
Shape the top and 17.
of skirt as represented
From
5 to 13
Square with
is
13 to 14 is
9 inches.
U
14,
is
1-3 of seat
measure.
inch.
Curv^e the back spring line from 10 to
16,
rouuding
15.
Square the front of skirt from 17 to 18. Finish skirt and shape the bottom as represented.
THE COLLAR. Draw a creased 29 to
2>> is 1
X
line
from 27
to 28.
inch.
C
inch.
to
line 13.
a line to
24 to 31 is the same. Shape the collar and finish as represented.
!4
to 13.
from 10 through
28 to 30
is
to 3.
the same.
W
Y
Y
inch.
is 1
W
to
and
34. 12
inch at
inch.
Apply to overshoulder measure plus U inch from G and J to V ISJi inches. Square out from to 26. 26 to 24 is '.< inch more than 1-6 breast measure. Draw a line from U to 24 to get gorge. to T is ;i inch less than P to R. Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scve.
34 to 33
14 to 15
W
Y
inches.
THE Pkue square
Draw From
inch.
Draw a line from P to R and shajje the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to and U}) to \V the straj) measure 12 inches Diaw a line from to F to get U.
32
is 3
to K.
K to M is X of breast measure. Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11|4 plus 1)4 inches 13'4 inches. M to X is 1-6 breast measure. X to S is the same. S to R is >^ ii^ch. From A to O is Ji inch more than 1-6 breast. O
inches and 21 to 20
7 to 27 is 31^
Froai 22 to 23
M
W.
THE REVER. Make width of rever 2>4 inches from Draw a line from 7 through 21 to 23.
measure.
inch.
way between
measure. the same as from C to
inch.
inches.
H
the same.
inches.
8 to 9 is "4
5 to 7 is
12 to 19, (livoting at
19 to 17
D down to E. G to H is half
to 3
6 to 5
E.
and B.
inch.
>^
inches
Waist
3 to
inch.
a line up to F and
38
....
3 to 6 is 13^ inches.
fashionable waist; \9}4 inches. 46 inches,, full length.
Square out from
13^ inches
Breast
Y
25.
From A to B is 9H inches the depth A to C is natural waist l?^^ inches.
A A
Overshoulder Blade
:
is
l}i inch.
it
K
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
25
IX.
TKis diagram represents tKe FrencK Frock Coat and appeared
The American Gentleman.
in
one of tKe issues of
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
26
DRESS COAT This draft
Depth
produced by the follow ing measurements with
is
9j4
inches
..17U
inches inches inches inches
sc\'e
Natural waist ...-. Fashionable waist Full length Strap .
19-V 41
.
11 'i
A
E
to
is
B
to star dot
D
At
BCD
D
and E.
I
N
to
to 8
H
J to
K
is 1-3 is >^
K
to
M
M
to
L
is
G
to
R
Q
to
is
is
half
of
full
7 to 11 is
)i(
15 to 13
brea.st
measure.
breast measure.
'
}.i
inch.
inch more than
X
13
H
V
M
is
X
breast measure.
SKIRT.
Shape the top and 11.
From
6 to 15
Square with
Draw
of skirt as represented
is
SW
Draw
11'-.
inches
to
F
1 J'2
is yi
seat measure 16 to
measure. edge of skirt from 19 to
slightly the front
Finish as represented.
to get T.
-'+
inch from
G
THE REVER
to
Draw
a line from
7
25 to 26
is
2^
V
to
7 to 24
C
to
Y
to
a line from T to 29 to get gjrge. S is X inch less than P to U Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye. 2 inches.
through
inches.
17 to 20 is 1-3 of waist
Draw
is
12
a line from 14 to 20.
2 inches.
inch.
from
inches.
a line to 16 from 15 to 16
11 to 19 is
inch more than 1-6 of breast measure.
J^
to 15.
line 15.
inch.
is
down
two inches.
is
Y X
Y and Y
10 to 11 pivoting at V.
27 to 28
is
to
21.
Curve the back spring line from 12 to 17 rounding inch as represented. From 11 to 14 is X of waist measure.
inch.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 31 and J to U 18^ inches. Square out from V to 30 30 to 29
of waist measure.
18 is fs inch.
the same.
a line from is
%
same as fn.m C
Place square at line 6 to 19 and square
of breast.
Curve
U
the
THE
net.
to
is
inches.
Measure the back from A to P. Apply to I and up to V the strap measure
T
to 9
is ><
Sweep from
breast
From A to O is >+ inch more than 1-6 breast. O to P is >^ inch. Draw a line from P to Q and shape the back.
Draw
measure.
inch less than
and 8
10 to 12
to E.
H
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 12 plus 1^4 inches 13 < inches. M to is 1-6 breast measure. is
inch.
1-4
Square down from 9 to get
inch
is >s
W W to R
of waist.
breast measure.
is >^
K
to
2X
is
inche,3
inches.
1'i
is 34
to 8
38 -34
toX.
measure 19 inches.
H
is
is /i
6 to 7
go in yi inch. Draw a line up to F and down the line inside of
to 4
3 to 5 is
to 3
From
..-.-
5 to 6 is 1-6 breast
inch.
is ^i
Waist
:
inches inches inches
13>2
.
4 to 3
41 full length.
Square out from
Breast
X
Square lines A E and A Z. From A to B is 9^+ inches the depth scye. A to C is natural waist 17 M inches. A to D is fashionable waist 19^ inches.
allowriflces
18%
Overshoulder Blade
27.
inches.
is2>< inches.
19 to 23
N
through 25 to
is
lii
inches.
the normal front center line. Finish as represented.
22 to
is
20.
it
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
X.
27
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
28
BON SOIR COAT This draft
is
pro(iiv--ed
Depth scye Natural
waist
Fashionable Full
inches
....17% inches
waist.. 19^/2 inches
length
Strap lines A E and A W. From A to B is 10 inches the depth A to C is natural waist 17H inches.
by the follow ,ng measurements with allowauccs.
lo
40
inches
12
inches
A A
to
D
to
E
is half way between Square out from
F
A
B
to
At
D
Draw From
Star dot
J4 inch.
go
in
V2 inch.
to 9
E.
line
of
full
breast
to
N
to
N is 2 inches. O is 3 inches.
to
L
to
X
X
to
S
is is
P to Q Draw a
more than
inch
Y
to
Z
Z
to 3
From
is
Q
to R. scye.
inch.
'/,
2 inches.
is is
i?i inches.
d to 8
6
is
to 9
to
is
the length of forenart.
and sonare down from 6 the same as from C to
V2 of w^ist
and 9
to 10
is
to get
Y
and
is
!â&#x20AC;˘?.
Y
12
%
is
to get 21.
in'-h.
6 to 13 pivoting at
W.
measure
THE Pbce
1-6 breast
SKIRT.
is
inch
more than
1-6 breast
meisure.
from
line
Q
to
R A
and
Draw
sliape the hack. T
and up
to
W
V
is
'A
54 inch. 1-16 of breast measure for the high shoul-
S to 17 is 7 inches.
is
%
from
17 to 18
is
Vb of seat
measure.
inch.
G
to
13 to 14
14 to 16
Draw
der figure.
W
line 17.
a line to 18
18 to 19
From
is
line
from
12
to 20
rounding
is
is
54 of waist
measure.
Va inch.
a line
20 to 22
Curve
t6.
inch.
as represented.
is
Apply 'the overshoulder measure plus 54 inch from 28 and J to V is 19% inches. to 27. Square out from
skirt as represented
Curve the back spring
W
to 30
From
is
Square w'th
5^ inch.
and square down to 17. from 12 to
sciuare at line 5
Shape the ton of
measure.
14 to 16
to Q. apply to Measure the back from the strap measure 12 inches net. to 29 to get U. Draw a line from to
Y
Sweep from lilade
to
F up
to
II
1-6 breast measure.
%
R is V2 inch. From A to P is V4
U
inch less than
plus iVa inches 1354 inches.
M S
^
is
1-6 breast measure.
to 24 to get gorge.
Square down from 10
Square up and down from J and apply from G to J.
11%
T
U
to Z.
Va breast measure.
is
W
D
to
M/
a line from
to
more than
Yi inch
is
Draw
5 to
H is Va breast measure. H to K is 1-3 breast measure. J to K is Va inch. K to M is Vi breast measure. I
inches
This instruction Hves good results when the waist laro-er than the breast.
19 inches. IT
inches
38
3 to 4 is 54 of waist and d is t''e I'ne between sidebody and forenart where ever it crosses the line. From 4 to 7 is the leneth of sidebody.
F and down to E inside of G to H is half
a line up to the
38
C
and B.
BCD and
is
Breast
Waist
i9'/2
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
full length.
40 inches
is
scye.
fashionable waist 19V2 inches.
is
I3y2 inches
27 to 24
Square
inches
Overshoulder Blade
from 16
to 22.
1-3 of waist measure.
slightly front edge of skirt
Finish as represented.
from
16 to 22.
it
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE XL
29
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
30
CLERICAL This draft
produced by the following measurements with allowances.
is
Natural ^aist Fashionable waist.. length
Full
Strap
Square
A
From
A A A
lines
A E B
and
A
inches
Overshoulder Blade
19^
inches
Breast
38
inches
40
inches
Waist
36
inches
1 1
%
C
is
to
D
is
fashionable waist I9y2 inches.
X
is
BCD
measure
H
is
is
half
to
J to
of full breast
usually 2J4 inches but clerical and military
to L is 1-12 breast measure. Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11% inches plus 1V2 inches 13% inches.
Z
to to
Vi inch
And up
to
X
the strap
W
is
%
inch.
V
to
Draw From
more than
1-6 of breast. it
and shape the back. to
Q
;
apply to
is is
V2
%
inch inch.
to
Y
and
Y
5 to get T. 13 pivoting at X.
SKIRT.
IS to is
16 34
15.
16. is
%
of seat measure.
inc.h.
line
from
line
12 to 17
rounding
!4 inch at 18.
Shape the front of from 17 to 19.
skirt
from
13 to
19
and the bottom
Finish as represented. net.
THE COLLAR. inch.
W
20 to 22
5
I.
measure 11% inches
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 34 i8'/4 inches. From G to 28 and J to Square out from X to 27. 27 to 20
line
a line to
16 to 18
R A
more than Vi of breast. is the same as from C
3^ inch
and 4 to
to 4
Curve the back spring
inch.
a line from Q to Measure the back from
Draw
inch.
I
is
and 13. Square with
inch. is
of breast. inch.
14 of waist.
is
is
scye.
to 14
1-6 of breast.
is
R is V2 From A to P P to Q is H
S
to R.
Place square at line 10 to 14 and square down to 15. Shape the top of skirt as represented from 12 through
1-6 breast measure.
is
% %
is
THE
is
Z S
to 3 is
Square down from Sweep from 12 to
O
to
Q
to 3.
H to J is 1-3 breast measure. K % inch. K to O is 34 breast measure.
O
Y
D
N is 1%, inches. H is % breast measure.
J to
than
Vi inch.
is
10 to II
should be 2 inches.
M
Y
to
6 to ID
H
to 20 to get gorge.
Vi inch less
is
C
8 to 9 to
V
from
a line
U
3 to 6
19 inches.
M
to
to
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
to E is 40 inches full length. and E. Square out from F is half way between A and B.
B to star dot is 34 inch. From the line inside of G
13V4 inches
inches
Draw
to
inches
inches
26.
9J4 inches depth of scye. natural waist 175^ inches.
to
13%
9% 17'/^
Depth scye
more than
1-6 breast measure.
Draw a line from 25 The width of collar to 24
is
the same.
Finish as indicated.
to 34 inch is
below point 21. from 25 to 24 and 21
iVi inches
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XII.
31
n
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
COAT
POLICE UNIFORM This draft
produced by the following measurements with allowances
is
Depth scye Natural waist
-
A E
lines
and
A
to
D
is
to
E
is
44.'4 14!4:
inches inches inches
to star dot
D
From to
K
to J
I is
to
N K
9 to 12
K
to
M is ^
to
L
is
G
to
H
half of full
is
(J
to
X
1
om X
to F to get U.
inch.
is Yi
to 22
is
,'4
inch
more than
>s
'4
inch
of breast measure.
,'4
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm to
Y
is Yt
inch.
to
Z
is
waist measure.
Z to 6
is 14+
6 to 7 7
X
is
to 8
1
is 1
inch.
'-2
is
inches.
of waist.
is \i
5 to 10
10 to
,'s
of waist.
the same.
from
breast measure.
Draw a line from U to 21 to get gorge. to T is inch less than P to R.
C Y
25 to 26
is 4
27 to 28
is
5 inches.
29 to 30
is
the same.
inches.
SKIRT.
Place square at line 10 to 15 and .square down to 14. Shape the top of skirt as represented from 12 through
and
to 15, 16
From
scye.
G
to
13.
10 to 14
Square with
Draw
is ><
Y
is
inch less than
of breast.
17, 14 to 17 is
H
of seat.
inch.
Curve the back sprmg
%
%
line 14.
a line to
17 to IS
f
M
X
of breast measure.
THE
Apply the ovenshoulder measure plus and J to V, 22 inches. .Square out from X to 23. li to 21
.
12 to 10 pivoting at X.
X
of breast measure.
inch.
is
is
to get 5.
2)i inches.
a line
V
Y and Y
,
net.
Draw
to
Finish che rever as represented.
and H.
line from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P Apply to I and uji to X the strap measure 14'+ inches
U
C
Draw a line from 25 through 27 to 29. The rever is iy^ inches from 13 to 16.
breast
W
P is % Draw a
as from
THE REVER. to E.
measure.
J
same
the
is
inch.
>'2
Sweep from
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 14 inches plus 1>^ inches, 15>^ inches. M to is 1-5 breast measure. to S is the same. 5 to R is % inch. From A to O is % inch more than 1-6 breast measure O
W
3 to 4
inch.
way between
M
is
25 to 13
inch
is J4
half
inch.
,'4
and
.1
Square down from 4
of breast measure.
is 1-3
to
to Z.
and B.
F and down
22 J4 inches. is 1-6 of breast
H H
to
Vz
the line inside of
measure
43
11 to 25 is
D
inches inches
...45
inch.
is ^i
go in Draw a line up to 3
A
15>^ inches
Breast
scye.
inches
11
Waist
BCD and E.
At
to
Overshoulder Blade
fashionable waist 20 inches. 44 '4 inches full length.
Square out from F is half way between
B
inches
24.
From A to B is 11 inches the depth A to C is natural waist IS inches.
A A
inches
1>S
20
Fashionable waist Full length Strap
Square
11
line
from
12
to 19,
rounding
it
inch as represented.
from 13 to 20. Shape the front edge and bottom as indicated. The button line is 1 inch back of the side neck and inches from the front edge of the bottom. l',i The back skirts are ornamented with the side edges. Dra\i' a line
THE COLLAR. This garment re(]uires a turndown collar as reinesentcd in the diagram. Square out from A B and A D
A
to
B
is
A
to
D
is
A
to
C
is
10 inches, half of collar.
IX
Curve the
E
to
F
inches.
lyi inches. line slightly
is Yz
H to G is the same. The leaf of collar is Shape the
from
A
to E.
inch.
collar
2.'4
and
inches from
E
to
G.
finish as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XIII.
33
1
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
34
FULL BOX OVERCOAT This draft
is
produced by the following measurments with allowances.
Depth scye Waist leiiijth
Hip length Full
length
Strap
Square
From A
A A A
A E
lines
to
C
to
D
II
is
F B
is
is
At C
to
R
to
Breast
43
inches
44
inches
Waist
40
inches
13
inches
Seat
44
inches
18.
%
is
A
G
and E. and B.
Y
Z
N
the same.
is
I
is
%
is
V4 of breast.
6 to 7
54 inch. 1-12 breast.
Draw
K
to
O
C
to
W
V
to
I
Draw
is
^ line
a
inch.
%
is
is
Q
<'nr<3;e.
%
is
inch
more than
V2 waist measure.
is
sVj inches.
a line
from
Sweep from 2 Sweep from 8
of waist.
and square down from V to get W. from O. through to 2 and up from L
inch-
i
Shape the
side
O
to
8.
to 8 pivoting at O. to 9, pivoting at Z.
and bottom.
Finish as represented.
to U.
L
to
U
to
U T
is is
J^ inch
more than
THE COLLAR.
1-6 breast.
Vi inch.
Square up from
I
and apply the blade measure from J
13% plus iVz inches i5'/4 inches. From A to P is 14 more than 1-6 breast measure. P to Q is s/s inch. Draw a line from Q to T and shape the back.
to I
and
to T.
4 to 3 is 7^ inches. Square with line 3 to 6. From 6 to 3 is 1-3 seat measure.
L
is
to get
Square down from 5 to 9 shape the front. Place square at line 4 "and square down to
J to
K
X
From
to J is 1-3 of breast.
to
I
inches.
Shape the gorge shoulder and armscye. 4 to 5
J to
L
from 14 to
J4 inch less than
is
19 apply to
54 inch 21
1-6 breast measure.
is
a line
to 21
H
to
Draw
a creased line
12 to
II
to
13
II
16 to 17
and up
54 inch.
is
15 to 14
half of full breast 21^2 inches.
M
is
to
Draw
inch.
to 2J4 inches. 1-12 of breast.
is
H
is
X
Measure the back from B to overshoulder measure 2054 plus
go out 54 inch. from A to S.
to
Measure the distance from A to Q. Apply to'Z the strap measure 13 inches net. Draw a line from Z to 20 to get X. â&#x20AC;˘
line
M
to
inches
to 20 is 1/16 of breast.
Draw a From B
G G G
inches
25
full length.
way between
star dot
From F
inches
15%
inches depth scye.
BCD
half
to
Overshoulder Blade
21
inches
hip length 25 inches.
is
44 inches Square out from to
A
inches
i8
18 inches waist length.
is
E
B
to
and
1
is is
is
1%
from
10 to
11.
inches.
2 inches. i^i inches.
Shape the collar and finish as represented.
3.
Y
for
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XIV.
35
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
36
BELL BOTTOM FRENCH OVERCOAT This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances.
Depth scje
liVi inches
inches
i8
inches
Overshoulder Blade
21
Natural waist
15%
inches
Fashionable waist.. 20
inches
Breast
inches
Hip length
26
inches
Waist
44 42
50
inches
Seat
45
inches
length
Full
13!^ inches
Strap
Square
lines
A
to
is
C
is
A 10
A
B
A
11%
A
Z and
to
to
E
is
SO inches
full
B F
H
is
in
%
length.
10
A
to
N O
is is
and B.
%
inch.
L
to
K
through 10 to
O
to 15
and up
to Z.
waist measure.
V4
inch less than
6 to 7 7 to 8
is
3%
is
to
X
is
X
to
S
is
I
Draw
inch.
is
is is
Vz
measure
1-3 of breast.
inch.
inches.
a line from 4 through 8 to
12.
Shape the front from 20 to 16. Sweep from 13 to 12, pivoting at L. Sweep from 12 to 14, pivoting at W. 14 to 15
is
i!4 inches.
Finish as represented.
inch.
1-12 breast measure.
THE COLLAR.
J4 of breast.
Vs inch.
%
inch
more than
Draw
1-6 of breast.
5^ inch.
line from Q to R. Shape the back pressing square on the point 2 and
to 13.
%
is
inch.
L
to P P to Q Draw a
is
%
Square down from J to get 6. Apply the blade measure from G to J i,s% plus iVa inches isVi inches and square up from J. Draw a line up from L and down from M to 9.
A
3 to 5
54 of breast.
is
for overshoulder
4 to 3
Vs of seat.
M
to 20.
from 20 to U to get gorge. VV to T is % inch less than Q to R. Shape gorge shoulder and arm scye.
I
to
W
1-6 breast measure.
is
is
is
through
a line
is
is
R
V
2 to 4
L
S to
V
inch 21 inches.
Draw
11
a creased line
18 to 17
is I
17 to 19
is
22 to 23
is
Shape the
inches net.
to Y.
Vs of breast.
to J
i3'/2
W
inch.
is
to
g to II
%
is
20 to 21
24.
2J4 inches. the same.
Square down from
V
to
Square out from Measure from G Apply to J and
and E.
Draw a line up to F and down to i B to G is 1/4 inch. G to H is half of breast 22 inches. to
W
inch.
way between
half
At C go
N
W.
to
I
U
C D
H
1-12 of breast.
is
I
hip length 26 inches.
to the star dot is
to
Square up from
Measure distance from A to Q. Apply to I and for strap measure Draw a line from to F to get U.
Square out from B
H K K
H
to E.
inches the depth scye.
the natural waist length 1854 inches. to D is the fashionable waist length 20^ inches. is
inches
from
16 to 17.
'A inches.
2 inches.
iVi inches. collar
and
finish as represented.
205.^4
plus
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
37
PLATE XV.
Tkis diagram represents tKe
first
French Bell Overcoat introduced
in this
country, and appeared in one of
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
38
FLOWING FRENCH PALETOT This draft
produced
is
the
h
Depth scye
ll
Natural waist
iS
folli
Fashionable waist.. 20 26 Hip length Full
length
52
12%
Strap
A
Sqiiare lines
A
to
C
is
A A A
B
the natural waist length 18 inches.
D
to
to
fashionable waist length 20 inches.
IS
E F
to
is
hip length 26 inches.
is
52 inches
full
length.
Square out froin
B C D E
B
to star dot
M
G G
to 20
is
inches
to 18.
inches the depth scye.
II
is
F and A
to
is
way between
half
ami
F.
and
B.
inch.
A
1-16 breast measure.
is
C and D go in % inch. Draw a line up to G and down to From the line inside of H to I At
I,
is
through 8 and half
of
full
F.
breast
measure 21 inches. I
to J is 1-12 of breast.
I
to
L
1-3 of breast.
is
K
L
to
O
is
half
L
to
M
M
to
N
%
is
inch.
way between
is is
14 of breast I
M
inch.
N
Square down from
to 10
ZJ to
U
is
V2 inch.
M
T
is
1-12 of breast.
to
to K.
measure.
and np
to
M
to 27.
Square up and down from K and apply the blade measure from H to K 131/2 plus iVi inch 15 inches. A to R is Vi inch more than 1-6 breast measure.
R
to
S
is Vi inch. a line from
S to U and shape the back. Measure the back from A to S. Apply to J and up to Y the strap measure 12% inches
Draw
net.
Draw
W
to
a line
X
is
from
Y
to 20 to get
W
VU
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and K to X 20% inches.
to ig
and
27.
fi inch. 54
i'T-"h
from
H
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XVI.
39
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
40
FRENCH SURTOUT This draft
Depth
produced by the following measureinents with allowances.
is
scye
lo'/i
inches
Natural waist .... iSli inches Fashionable waist .20% inches length
Full
Strap
Square
A E
lines
and
A
52
inches
13
inches
Overshoulder Blade
20V2 inches
14%
inches
Breast
41
inches
Waist
36
inches
Draw
Z.
X
From A to B is I0}4 the depth scye. A to C is natural waist 18% inches, A to D is fashionable waist 20^ inches.
A
to
E
52 inches
is
full
From F to Q B to star dot At
D
Draw From
go
%
in
% is
A
to 2
2 to 4
E.
and B.
%
is is is
}4 of waist.
is
i}i inch.
to E.
H
half of
is
full
16 to 21
breast
is
The width
M
27 to 28
L
5^ of breast
is
Draw
to
T
T
to
S
31
8
1-6 of breast.
is
M
to 29
From
is
2 inches
from
16 to 20.
i]/2
is
II
Draw
inch from
G
to 15
and
14
and square down
of skirt as represented
is
to 15.
from 29 through
line
is
%
9 inches. 15.
from
%
15 to 17
is
2-3 of seat.
inch.
Curve the back spring
to it
breast.
SKIRT.
13
inches.
a line to 17
17 to 19
%
11,
2 inches.
Square with
net.
inch.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 2oyo inches. and J to Square out from X t'^ Y. Y to 22 is % inch more than 1-6 of
W
is
14 to 20.
a line
W
of rever
Shape the lop
from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to I and up to X the strap measure 13 inches Draw a line from X to 30 to get V. to
X.
at
is
THE 13 to 14
more than
4.
12 through 25 to 27.
Place square at line
i"ch
and 2 to
is 3V2 inches. Finish the rever as represented.
measure.
the same.
R is % inch. From A to O is J4 O to P is ยง^ inch.
V
from
1-6 breist measure.
is
is
to 2
4 inches. 25 to 26 is 4'4 inches.
S to
Draw
a line
12 to 24
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 12% plus 1% inches 14% inches.
M
C
THE REVER.
N is 1-6 of breast measure. H is % of breast measure. H to K is 1-3 of breast measure. J to K is % inch. K to M is 34 of breast measure. to
from
as
Vi inch.
to
to
I
same
the
is
measure 20% inches.
H
scye.
of waist. to S
Square down from 5 to get 6. Sweep from D to 16, pivoting
inch.-
to
H
and 3
to 3
',
to R.
inch.
4
D G
P
1-6 of waist.
11 to 12 is
inch.
the line inside of
to 22 to get gorge.
4 to 9 7 to
54 inch.
up to F and down
3 line
V
54 inch less than
is
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
C
length.
BCD and
Square out from F is half way between
from
a line
U
to
line
from 29
to
18,
rounding
inch as represented.
Square down the front edge of skirt from 20 to Finish the front edge and bottom as represented.
30.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
41
XVII.
Dip Front Frencn Surtout, Full Bell
Skirt.
Reproduction or diagram from tne Americanized French Cutting Method, giving the prospective subscriber an idea or the style produced by this method.
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
42
PADDOCK This draft
produced by the following measurements with allowances.
is
Fashionable waist..
I0% 17% 19%
Full length
50
inches
Strap
13V4,
inches
Depth scye Natural waist
Square
A E
lines
From A A to C
is
A A
B
to
to
D
is
to
E
is
and
A
M
to
H
to
G
to J
J to
N
38
inches
Square out from
20.
A
breast measure.
measure.
T
T
to
S
is
is
1-6 breast measure.
more than
Y
1-6 breast.
C
to 6
to
it
from
From
a line from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to H and up to X the strap measure 13% inches
measure. to 22 to get gorge.
inch less than
to
Z
a line
from
%
inch.
is
X
to
F
P
to R.
is is
inch.
I
% of waist. % inch. %
is
of waist.
iJ4 inches, 23 to 24
is
U
line
6 to 13 5 to
is
to get Y.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and I to Z 2o;4 inches.
the creased line.
to
V
and
Vs breast measure.
from
a line
is
is
same as from C from U to get 3.
the
is
<a
scye.
1-6 of waist.
13 to 5 for the top of skirt
J/i
inch.
8 to 14
Square with
Draw
is
line
a line to 15
16 to 18
and shape
14.
is
'A
edge. 14.
1-3 of breast. 14.
from
14 to 16 is Vi of seat
measure.
inch.
Curve the back spring
net.
Draw
!
measure.
Sweep from 11 to 12, pivoting at X. Square down from 12 to 19 for the front Place square at line 8 and square down to
Draw
Q
to 4 is
5 to II
Vi inch less than 1-6 breast measure.
S to
Y
to
V
Draw From Draw
inch.
i"ch
V
C
D
Vs of breast.
R is ^ inch. From A to O is J4 O to P is % inch.
from
%
IS
is
9 to 10
is half way between L to J. Square up and down from I and apply blade measure from B to I 12^4 plus 1 54 inches, 1354 inches.
to
W
to
J4 breast
is
a line
6 to 7 8 to 9
K L
to 21.
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm
inches.
^^ breast
X
Draw
and E. and B. full
X
21 at 22 is 1-6 breast
X
%
I is
Waist
24 to
i^
is IS
is
inches
1-6 of breast.
is
G
40
50 inches full length.
BCD
M
inches
Breast
natural waist I7J4 inches. fashionable waist 19% inches.
B to star dot is 54 inch. From B to G is half of to
13%
inches
lO-M inches depth scye.
is
Square out from F is half way between
G
Overshoulder Blade
2oV4 inches
inches
inches
line
from
5 to 17,
rounding
inch as represented.
Finish the front edge and bottom as illustrated.
%
inch
from B
to
it
V2
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XVIIl.
43
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
44
FRENCH ULSTER This draft
is
produced by the follow ing measurements with allowances.
Depth scye
ii%
inches
inches
i8
inches
Overshoulder Blade
21
Natural waist
15%
inches
Fashionable waist .20
inches
Breast
44
inches
Hip length
25
inches
Waist
41
inches
54
inches
Seat
45
inches
i3'/2
inches
Full
length
_
Strap
Square
lines
A
is
B
to
C A E
is
A
to
A F
1
1
A
and
W
25.
natural waist length 18 inches. is fashionable waist len.sfth 20 inches. to is
D
B C D E and
Square out from
B
to star dot
G
is
At C go
Draw From
is
%
in
G
and down
H
the line inside of
to
to I,
i
is
through 9 half of
to 17.
full
breast
O
to
1
to J
is
K L
to
M
to
M N
to
to
Q
is
1-3 breast
%
is
I
inch.
U
to
inch and 7 to 8
is
Square
%
inch.
is
1-12 breast measure.
U
is
54 breast
T is ÂĽ2 inch. From A to R is % R to S is % inch.
the same.
2Vi inches.
down from
line
1-3
is
line
a line to 12
3V2
is
a line
is
10 to get
16.
and square down of brenst measure.
at line 3
3 to II
18 to 15
is
more than
1-6 breast
from
from 10
11
to
12
is
1-3 of seat
through 13 to
14.
16 to 17, pivoting at Z. 17 to 18, pivoting at Y.
1/4 inches.
15 to 19 is the same.
The width
of lapel is 4 inches from 28 Shape the front edge and bottom.
net.
Draw
a line
from
Y
to
G
to get
W.
THE COLLAR.
measure.
a line from S to T and shape the back. Measure the distance of back from A to S. Apply to J and up to Y the strap measure. i3'/4 inches
Draw
11.
II.
Finish as represented.
measure.
to
inches.
to
inch
to
waist measure.
Sweep from Sweep from
measure.
M
Z
5 to 6
12 to 13
measure.
Z
to
H
measure.
1-3 of breast
is y^ is
Draw
Square up and down from K and apply blade measure from H to K 13^ plus i^ inches 1554 inches. and down from N to 12. Draw a line up from
M
is
3 to 5
Draw
Vi breast
is
inch from
W
Square with
the same.
1-12 breast measure.
is
L is to L is
I
to 2
From
254 inches.
P and P
to
^
1-6 breast measure.
is
Place square
measure. I
inch.
a line
2 to 4
and B.
inch.
up to
a line
1
A
%
is
from to 24 to get gorge. Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye.
F.
}i inch.
way between
half
Draw
length 54 inches.
full
is
X
26 to 24
hip length 26 inches.
F
to
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 30 and K to X 21 inches. Square out from Y to 26.
depth scye.
14 inches
Draw
a creased line
21 to 22 is
1%
from 20
to 21.
inch.
23 to 21
IS
2 inches.
28 *o 29
is
the same.
Sliape the collar and finish as indicated.
to 27.
measure.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XIX.
45
;
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
46
INVERNESS This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances
Depth scye Waist length Hip length length
Full
and
A
lines
to
G
to 1-6 breast measure.
to
B
is
to
D
E
is
A D
II inches
inches
inches
inches
Breast
40
inches
inches
Waist
37
inches
Seat
42
inches
24 52
F C
to
depth of scye.
Square with
waist length 17 inches.
is
52 inches
full length.
Draw a From Z
is
}^ breast
measure.
8 to 9
G B C D E and F. B to star dot is % inch. Draw a line from A to 11. II to F is 1-12 breast measure. From B to H is half of breast measure
X
Square out from
H
to
L
is
M L
H
I
way between B and
to
L
is
1-6 breast measure.
K
is
2 inches.
to J is
to
5 to
line Z.
line to 8.
8
to
is
4
X
Draw
1-3 seat
is
J4 inch.
is
V2 inch.
is
from 4 through 9 to 10. seam from 5 through
a line
side
Sweep from Sweep from
I.
12 to 10. pivoting at
10 to
P
is
P.
strap
Q
from
T
to
G
measure 13% inches
T
V
to
W
to IS
15 to 16
T to R Draw a
is
is is is
V2 inch
M
line
more than
to
D
to
X Y
is is
5/2
inch from
4.
pivoting at T.
as
W
P
to
20 to 23
is
i^
20 to 22
is
2%
21 to 24
is
19.
the
inches. inches.
same
as 20 to 22.
This coat has a turn down uniform
B
to
THE length
1-6 breast measure.
Q.
length
19 inches
Sweep forward The front edge
is
collar.
arplyi'ig
from
K
to 28
and from 28 to
to
inside
the
sea
"i
7. i.
pivoting at
of c.ipe comes to within
Finish cape as illustrated. scye.
CAPE.
obtained
front of forepart.
to 15.
waist measure.
the same.
from 20 to
10 inches, half of collar.
is
The cape
inch.
same from
the
^
measure.
Vs breast
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm Cut out Vz inch V from 17 to 18.
C
14,
Finish the collar as indicated.
to get R.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and K to S, 21 inches. Square out from T to V.
a line
19 to 20
than 1-6 breast.
net. a line
in
THE COLLAR. Draw
5^ inch.
Measure the back from A to Apply to J and up to T the
Draw
ahown
of breast measure.
i/^
a line
ii
to
ab
14 to 30 is 154 inches. Finish the front edge as represented.
14M inches with allowances. ch more From A to O is 'A
O
V
to
diagram.
20 inches.
from M up to N and down to 12. Square up and down from K and apply blade measure
Draw
measurr
inch.
I
Shape the
J4 breast.
is
half
to
l}4 inches
2 to 6
hip length 24 inches.
to
inches
more than
is J4 waist measure. Place square at line 3 to 2 and square down to Z. From 2 to Z is 1-3 breast measure 6V> inches.
U.
Square
A A A
is
21
14%
inches
17
13V2 inches
Strap
A F
Overshoulder Blade
ii
i
T
inch of the
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE XX.
47
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
48
VESTS The
vests are
drafted
just
same
the
as
exception of only opening
the coats, but with the
length
full
side
and back.
FRENCH WAIST COAT The measurements
Square
A
to
C
is
A
to
A D
lines
and
A
are produced as follows
Back length
19 inches
Full
length
28 inches
Breast
36 inches
Side
length
23 inches
Waist
Opening
13 inches
Draw
O.
17 inches waist length.
X From N
D
C
B
is
is
9%
N
inches.
19 inches back length.
is half way between A and B. Square out from B, C and D.
B
to
S
S
to to
G
H
F
is
is is
half
is
Draw From
^
from
inch.
half of breast inches.
A
measure 18 inches.
2%
way between S and
a line
from
H
G.
to
K
is
T
E
to get P.
inch.
54
Q
to is
'A inch less
is
than from
M
to
to P.
inch.
I
to
Y
M
and
is
of
waist and
the same.
N
to
G
is
to
the opening
12 plus
i
inch
13
M
and
N
I
Vs breast measure.
G
through
X
to
G and
R
is
the side
Shape the sides and bottom from
M
and
K
to
N, 11%
W
is
the
inch 23 inches. Finish as represented.
to
to
length
full
inches 28 inches.
Shape the opening from from G through Y and W, From A to M and N to
is
a line from K to get N. Apply the strap measure from A
A
26J/2 plus lyi
Draw inches.
V
From
to R.
is
F
to
is
mches.
1-6 breast measure. H to H to J is the same. A to L is 1-6 breast measure. L to M 5^ inch. I
to
inches
to
Shape the back shoulder and arm scye. From T to U is I inch more th^n half
E
F
a N
from
a line
R
to
W.
front
edge
length 22 plus
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XXI.
49
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
50
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST The measurements
Square
lines
A D
are produced as follows, with the exception of onl'-
and
A
inches
Back length
19
inches
Full length
27
inches
Breast
37
inches
Side length
235/<
inches
Waist
33
inches
to
B
is
17 inches waist length.
A
D
to
is
C
O.
C
9%
is
is
G
F
to
G
to 3
H
I
is
H
is
A L F
to to
G.
H
W
from
through 1-6 breast measure. the same. 1-6 breast measure.
L
is
N K
is
5^ inch.
is
%
Draw
more than half of X is % more than
inch to
A
to
M
apply
N
to
l
down
to
to
I
to
Z
N
to
E
20, plus
is is
is
25^
inches, plus
iH
inches 27 inches.
2 inches.
I
Shape the sides and bottom from
to
to get P.
i
4 inches.
M
M
and
K
to
N
is
F F
to 2
to 4
5 to 6
from
opening
23'/2 inches.
A
U
Shape the opening from N through G to i and front edge from i to Z. inch and N to R is the side length 22^^ plus A to
to get N.
Apply the strap measure from
to
half of waist measure.
R
to
LAPEL.
K
From T
waist.
breast measure.
a line from
a line
inch.
I
And down Y
X Y
inches.
to R.
12 inches net.
Draw
is
inch, 21 inches.
inches.
way between S and
a line
to
J to to
2%
T
Distance
;4 inch.
half
is
Draw
H
is is
I
V
19 J4, inches back length.
way between
half
to
Shape the back shoulder and armscye.
inches.
A and B. Square out from B, C and D. B to S is J4 inch. S to F is half of breast measure i&'A
E
ircbps to be added half breast measure:
21
A
is
l%
Opening
is
is is
2%
inches.
iJ4 inches.
%
inch.
Finish collar and lapel as represented.
Y
and
Z.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE ^
6
XXII.
51
;
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
52
VEST FOR CORPULENT FORM are produced as follows with the exception the addition of the fat recede at front of waist
The measuremeiits
Opening Full
length
Side
Square
A
to
C
is
A E E
D Z
to
Back length
23
inches
Breast
48
inches
28 V2 inches
Waist
so
inches
U
length.
V
way between
A
H
to
G
30^
Draw
H
I
H
is
to
L
is
L F
to
M
is
to
K
is
Draw .
is
A
J to
from
a line
to
H
to G.
to
to
is
from F
to
G
M
A i
through
and
28%
to 4
fullness
inch.
M.
to
inch
Apply
16%
N
inches,
is
N
to
X R
N
through to
Q T
is
Vi inch less than
is
%
A
to
U
M
to
and
K
from
M
to P.
I
N
is
inch
to
to
Y
G
and
front
the side length 27'/2 inches plus
sides
and bottom from
?4 inch and 5 to
to
the
R
is
5 to
Y.
the same.
stomach or take out
%
THE COLLAR.
is
to 6
6 to 8 8 to 7
inch.
is
to
G
to get P.
Shape the back shoulder and arm
From T
G down
inches.
K
E
to
and down
to Y.
pocket.
Ji breast measure. to get N. a line from
to
W.
After cutting the forepart cut the pocket from U to i. Square down to 3 and overlap from 3 to 2 for throwing
1-6 breast measure.
N
to
inch.
inches plus ij4 inches 32 inches full length.
inch
R
the same.
14V2 inches net. Draw a line from
C
front center line
is I
Shape the
to R.
Apply the strap measure from
N
I
1-6 breast measure.
%
W
Shape the opening from
A
way between B
to
edge from
2J4 inches.
is
half
is
the same.
is
Measure distance
Square out from B, C and D. B to F is half of breast measure 24 inches.
F
X
opening 15% plus
and B.
Vs inch.
is
to
The normal
23 inches back length.
is
half
inches
inches
O.
A
and
B is 11% inches. 20% inches waist
to is
A D
lines
length
i6
32
more than
scye.
half of waist.
is 4I/2 is is
I
inches.
inch.
the same.
%
inch. 9 to 10 is Finish collar as represented.
inch
V
in
the
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XXIII.
53
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
54
FULL DRESS VEST The measurements
are
produced
as
lines
A
is
B
inches
Back length
19%
inches
Full length
27
inches
Breast
38
inches
inches
Waist
34
inches
A D
and
A
is
A E
to
D
F
to
H
is
C
is
24
N
O.
9J4 inches. 17 inches waist length.
to
C
G
is
H
a line
H
I
is
1-6 breast measure.
H
is
the same.
to
J to
A
to
L
is
G.
to R.
strap,
Y X
measure from
a line
from
N
to
E
to 2 to
4 to 3
A
to
inches net.
Draw
M
THE COLLAR.
1-6 breast measure.
L to M is % inch. F to K is Vb breast measure. Draw a line from K to get N. Apply the
from
to get P.
M
and
to P.
inch.
I
23 '/2 inches.
Draw
from
Q T is
Shape the back shoulder and arm scye. to U is I inch more than half of waist. V to X is % inch more *''^n half of waist. Distance A to M. Apply N to X down to opening 19 plus I inch 20 inches and down to Z is 25 plus 1V2 inch 26'/4 inches. Shape the opening and front edge as indicated. A to M and N to R is the side length 221/2 plus I inch
ij^ inches.
way between S and
to to
Vi inch less than
is
From T
igl4 inches back length.
is half way between A and B. Square out from B, C and D. B to S is Vi inch. S to F is half of breast measure 19 inches.
half
inch to be added half at breast measure:
20
Side length
Square
1%
the exception of only
with
follows
Opening
K
to
N
12
N
to
is 1
5%
4}i inches.
is is
W
inches.
I
^
is
inches. J^
inch.
6 to 5 is f^ inch. Finish the collar as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE XXIV. ยง
s
55
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
56
THE EASY METHOD TROUSERS The measurements
Seat
40
inches
....32
inches
Knee
20
inches
34
inches
Bottom
16
inches
Outside length ....41 length
Inside
Waist Square
A
to
B
to
D
is
lines
B C
is
the outside length.
the inside length.
E
is
J^ seat.
to
H
is
%
J to
E
G E
half
seat,
H
A
to
Extend
B C D.
F
is
H
inch.
is
line
E
through
M
to
L
is
is
S
to
U
R
is
half
half
J4
inch less than
to
5^2
of bottom.
U.
Shape the outside seam dress front and inside seam as represented.
Vs of seat.
I
to 2
is
Yz
to
F X and Q.
Vi of knee.
way between T
is
I
seat.
inch.
inch.
a line from
X
is
Shape the
way between L and K.
is
to
Y to N.
to
S
Z
is
through Z i Shape seat seam as represented. Z to Y is 54 waist.
1-6 seat.
from
the lines.
% %
to 3
Draw
E is the same. way between F to C.
Q is V4 inch. to O is % waist, P is half way between O Draw line from H through I to K.
K
B.
all
3 to 4 is
F
way between C and
J4 inch I to
is
M
to
Draw
N Q
from
to
is
THE BACKPART.
is
lines out
'4 inches
N.
2 inches less than half
Square
C E
A B A
are as follows
to
M.
2 inches. top,
to 4 the
making
the
V %
straight line
is
inch wide. i
inch
seat.
T
to 6
is
V2 inch
K
to
8
is
I
inch
U L
to 7 to
Finish as represented.
9
is is
the same. the same.
more than
%
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE XXV.
57
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
58
THE PEG TOP TROUSERS The measurements Outside
length
.
.
Inside length
30^2 inches
Waist Square
A
From 30'/2
D
G
to
B
38
inches
23
inches
16
inches
THE BACKPART.
M.
40 inches outside length.
is
inches
34
Seat
Knee Bottom
B
to
C
is
Extend
inches inside length. is
to is
half
%
is
seat,
is }/^ seat,
Square up from
L
is
1-6 seat
N
to
O
is
}/2
P C
to
is
K
R
is
half
S
to
D
is
is
to is
N
is
%
M
inch,
through S to
J.
than V2 of bottom. between J and K.
J/2
of knee and
S
to
Finish forepart as represented.
Q
is
^
is
13 to
inch.
i.
inch.
5 inches.
2 inches.
is
top,
making
V %
the
inch wide,
inch. is
W
the same.
V
to
T
to 14 is ij^ inches.
D
to
,9
J to 10
;4 inch less
way
X
to
Shape the 3 to 5
and O.
inch.
F
Y
inch,
}4 inch.
seat.
line froin
J to
M
to 13
%
is
is Vi,
Shape seat seam as represented. Z to Y is '/2 waist.
K
C.
5
way between
I
and
and L
to 2
I
seat, 7 to 6
f
waist.
U is 1-6 U to V is %
C to T Draw a
M
to
the cross lines.
all
From F to 7 is ^ Draw a line from
B.
I
I
E
to
half
way between C and
C D and B. E to is ^ inch. F to H is % inch.
way between F and
E
is
half
from
lines out
E F
to
more than
2 inches
Square
C E
A B A
lines
inches
.40
are as follows
is
is
!^ of seat.
%
is I
inch. inch.
S to 8
K
to 12
Finish as represented.
is
is
the same. the same.
from 4
to
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE XXVI.
59
:
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
60
THE CORPULENT FORM TROUSERS The measurements
Square
A
to
B
to
D
is
B r
56 inches 22 inches
Waist
56 inches
Knee Bottom
the inside length.
lines out
to
F
is
to
H
is
I
E
to
is is
way between C and
Extend
a
and from
G
L
is
to
Draw
M
to
Q
to
through
from
R E
up through
L
M
M
to
is
3^4 inches.
P
to 3
is
2 inches.
C
to II
is
J to
K
is
S
is
half
T
to
^ %
6 to 5
is
I
inch less than
us V5 of knee.
I
P
is
half
way between
%
of bottom.
J and K.
is
3 inches.
is
2!/2
inches.
a line from 2 through i Z to L. Shape seat seam as represented.
Z
to
Y
to
Y
X
3 to 4
and
inch.
way between
to
to 2
of seat. inch.
Draw 3,
and N.
and Q.
U
to
to S.
Q is % inch. O is % waist, N
^
I
1-6 of seat.
a line
is
Z
inch for large forms instead of 5^ inch.
the cross lines.
all
to 6
F
half
Draw
seam
THE BACKPART.
B.
B.
way between 11 and H. line up and down from G through P
inside
represented.
as
C D and
from
18 inches
Shape the outside seam dress front and
M.
is
% seat. % inch. ^ seat.
is
Seat
25 inches
the outside length.
I
G
38 inches
Inside length
is
to
C E E F
A
and
Outside length
2 inches less than half
Square
E
A B
lines
are as follows
O
%
is
waist.
2 inches.
is
the same.
is
Shape the
W
top,
making the
V
to
C
to 12 is }4 inch.
U
to 8
T
to 7
is
K
to
10
J to 9
is
is
is
V %
inch wide.
iVz inch.
V2 inch.
the same. is
I
inch.
the same.
Shape as represented.
' i
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XXVII.
61
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
62
RIDING BREECHES The measurements
are as follows:
36
inches
Full
40
inches
Length
i6y2 inches
Knee Knee band
THE FOREPART. Square
A A A
lines
A B
C is the inside length to to Z is the knee band. to B is the outside length.
D
to
the knee.
the inside length.
is
lines out
Square the
W
A D
from
C Z and
to
F
to
F G
G
to
H
K
is
to J
is
I
H
and
seat
J/^
J to 7
K
to
J to
to
I
is
i
inch.
to E.
inch. is
to
17
Y
is
i^
I
inch.
is
X
7 to
H
and
S
to 13
O
to 9
to 4
is
From R from P to
I
U R
2%
is
3%
P
is
1%
is
the same.
to 12
is
Vz inch.
to 10
is
to
8
to
is
the same.
10.
15
and
13,
12
to
and G.
inch.
inside
S
is
is
Vi
Vi
I
through
T R
and
P
more than more than 1-3
inch
1-3
of knee,
and
Square
Finish the forepart as represented,
G
to
D
to
F B F B
is
^
inch
inch and
N
to
O
is
of knee band.
5 inches
and
O
to
S
THE BACKPART. all is
lines is
2
through
14.
12
A B
A
and
C.
the length of cuff.
is
is
% %
E
the cross lines.
inch
inch
D
to
more th^n more than is
l^
1-3 of calf. 1-3 of calf
bottom.
inches V.
BACKPART CUFF.
L
A
to L,
%
C E
to
through 3 to 5. seat and 3 to 5 is % inch. From L to 3 is Shape the seat seam from 5 through 7 to 2 as repre-
12 14
the same.
is is
Between
Calf Bottom Calf
inch.
1
Vg seat.
Square up from
seam from
FOREPART CUFF.
inch.
to
N
Q
inches.
to 17.
D
to
sented.
to 11
and
10
Shape the top and V as represented. The buttons and button holes are located by the black spots in the side seam line below S and 13.
inches.
A A
to 2
the same.
8.
the same.
I
is
the same.
%
is
Shape the
G
Extend
waist.
inches.
T
to
to
to
Q
and
3 inches,
is is
^
to 6
inches.
to 14
C
M
and 4
2 inches.
is
M.
to
more than
lyi inches
is
I.
!^ waist
is
Square down from E to M. Shape the inside seem from
is
to 15
M
1-6 seat.
Shape the top from Y L is half way between
D
to 10
V
T
1-12 seat.
is
Shape the front and dress through J and J
i^yi inches V4 inch
Shape the outside seam from 4 through
D.
ÂĽ2 seat.
is
Square up from F
to
155^ inches
is
A X
inches
33
to 9.
D
From
16 to 17
E.
to
Z up
E
A
and
length
Waist Seat
to
H K
F
to
M
and
B
to
N
is
2 inches.
and G to I is the same. i"ch and K to J is ^ inch.
is
2 inches
is
J4
Finish the cuff as represented.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
XXVIII.
63
Proportion Table for Trousers
Waist
\.