Kenmore 1020 sewing machine user manual

69565

TABLE OF CONTENTS Knowing Your Sewing Machine Identifying Parts .................................

Connecting Machine ..............................

1-2 3

Threading - Bobbin ..............................

Top Thread ........................................

4 -5 6

Using the Controls Top Tension Control

7 -8

...........................

Adjusting Bobbin Tension ......................

Stitch Length Control ............................

Stitch Width Control .............................

Reverse Stitch Control ..........................

Feed Dog Control .................................

Special Stitch Dial ...........................

Pressure

Regulator

Sewing Light Seam Guides

...............................

...................................... ......................................

9 10 10 11 11 12- 14 15 16 17

Accessories Needles

.............................................

Needle,

Thread,

Fabric

Chart

18

..................

19

Presser Feet ........................................

Buttonhole Guide Feet ..........................

20 21

Zigzag and Straight Stitching Needle Plate .................................................

22

Starting to Sew .....................................

Garment Construction Stitches Straight

Stitching

Zigzag Stitching Stretch Stitching Special

Finishing

................................ .................................. ............................

23 24 25 26 - 28

Stitches

Satin Stitching, Appliqueing ...................

29 Buttonhole Making .........................

30 - 32 Button Sewing, Bar Tacking ...................

33 Blind Hemming .................. : ...........

34 - 35 Zipper Application ................................

36 Special

Edge Stitch,

Checking

Performance

Mending, Problems

Darning

..... 37

.........

39 - 40

Caring for the Machine Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ................

Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ....................

41 42

Oiling

43

Underside

....................................

Oiling Face Cover Plate ...........................

Parts List ........................................

69565

44 45 - 46

Knowing Your Sewing Machi

,--_1.

FRONT

VIEW

@

@ © -@

@ ® ® ® ® ® ® _

@

@ (_'

.

11. Thread Guide

Box

2.

Hinged

Extension

12. Take-up

3.

Needle

Plate

13. Top Thread Tension

4.

Zigzag

5.

Presser

Foot

6.

Thread

7.

Stitching

Plate

14. Threading

Lever

Guide

Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control

Thread

Guide

17.

Reverse Stitch

8.

Thread

Tension

9.

Thread

Guide

18.

19.

Stitch Length Nomenclature

Face Cover

Plate

Regulator

Control

Path

15.

16.

10.

1

Accessory

Control Control Plate

BACK VIEW r

@ ® @

.@ @

@

@

7

@ \

.@

@ ®

/

26.

Bobbin

Winder

Connector

27.

Thread

Guide

22.

Hand

28.

Presser

Foot Lever

23.

Bobbin

Winder

Shaft

29.

Thread

Cutter

24.

Bobbin

Winder

Latch

30.

Needle

Clamp

25.

Thread

Spool

31.

Feed Dogs

20.

Light

21.

and Power

Switch

Wheel

Pin

Tension

Disc

Screw

2

CONNECTING

MACHINE

速 %

速

速

速

1. Lift hinged extension at side of machine bed-plate.

2.

the

left

For more sewing space, tip the bed plate cover up by pushing right edge as shown in Fig. 2.

Turn the accessory box toward you as shown in Fig. 2.

3. Fig. 3. shows the machine ready to sew with all the extensions in place for maximum sewing space.

3

4.

Push the connector column.

plug onto three-prong at the back of machine

5.

Plug machine cord into 120 volt wall outlet. power by pushing switch.

6. Pull up spool machine.

light

pin stored

any 110Turn on and power at top

of

_B

WINDING

THE BOBBIN

速

速

速

速

,

,

.

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown in Fig. 1.

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin and place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin, fitting the notch on the bobbin over locking stud on the shaft as shown in Fig. 2.

Push bobbin winder bobbin until it clicks.

latch

4.

Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob as shown in Fig. 4. Start machine, holding onto end of thread. When bobbin is slightly filled, release end of thread.

5.

When bobbin is mechanism stops.

6.

Push in hand wheel or turning clutch knob to return to stitching position.

Remove bobbin.

full,

winding

against

4

THREADING

THE BOBBIN

CASE

® ,j

i_ I

.

k

,.

\

®

®

®

®

®

1. To remove bobbin case from the shuttle, raise needle to its highest position.

2. Open bed plate cover, accessory box. ,

4.

.

5

Pull open

latch

Pull bobbin shuttle.

and remove

of bobbin

case

straight

case. out

of

Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown.

.

7.

Pull thread shown.

Pull

thread

through under

slot of case as tension

8. Holding latch open, position into shuttle, and release latch. should lock into place when is released. .

spring. case Case latch

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.

THREADING Model

OF TOP THREAD

1050

_

_

(_

d_

®

Model1020,

1030, 1040, 1045

(_/

®

6

TOP TENSION

Model

CONTROL

1050

Model1020,

1030, 1040, 1045

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes.

The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of the control.

The higher the number, the tighter the tension.

There for

are many

one fabric

upon fabric

the

reasons

may

stiffness

being

sewn,

not

for

having

be correct

of the

fabric,

as well

7

for

reset

your

another.

thickness

as the

It is best to test the stitching starting to make a garment.

to

type

tension.

The

required

of the fabric, of stitch

The

you

best

tension

numbers

tension depends

of layers

of

are making.

on a scrap of the fabric you are using before To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.

ADJUSTING

TOP TENSIONS

A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.

(_

Upper thread

too tight

Decrease

Tension

(_

Upper thread

too loose

Increase Tension

8

ADJUSTING

BOBBIN

Bobbin tension.

requires

If the

tension

stitch

is satisfactory

loosen the tension them as indicated

When adjusting a screwdriver.

DECREASE

TENSIONS adjusting

but

the

on both the top on Page 9.

the tension

less

seam

frequently

is puckered,

and bottom

on the bobbin

than

it may

threads.

upper

be necessary

to

Be sure to balance

with

TENSION

Counter

Clockwise.

TENSION

Turn

9

thread

case, make slight adjustments

Turn

INCREASE

the

Clockwise.

STITCH

LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control located on the right side of the machine the length of the stitch you select.

THE HIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.

regulates

The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.

A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.

The middle range of the control the most commonly used.

A basting per inch.

is the 10-1 2 stitch

per inch range which

stitch is made by using the longest possible

The marking _ such as in Satin

STITCH

on this control Stitching.

WIDTH

is the setting

stitch setting

is

- 6 stitches

used for the shortest

stitches

CONTROL

I m ilmll m m

This control NUMBER

regulates - THE

by adjusting

this

This

must

control

the width

WIDER control be on

THE

of the

STITCH.

to the Red

setting

Dot

stitch

you

select.

THE

You may vary your zigzag you

in order

HIGHER stitch

THE width

desire. to do straight

stitching.

10

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

It is best to begin is called and

back

prevents

and end seams

tacking.

Back

with

tacking

a few fastens

stitches the

taken

ends

in reverse.

of the

seams

This firmly

raveling.

When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise there during sewing.

The fabric will immediately start feeding and seam will be fastened.

and hold backwards

FEED DOG CONTROL

The feed dog control is located on the machine behind accessory box.

There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself.

When the control is pushed down, the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric.

For most

up).

11

of your

sewing,

turn

the control

to the

up position.

(Feed

dog

SPECIAL

STITCH

DIAL

There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home sewing.

This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand.

THE RED DOT SETTING

The Red Dot setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitchingeither straight or simple zigzag.

When the stitch width is set on the Red Dot and the Special Stitch Dial on the Red Dot setting, you may straight stitch.

For a simple zigzag stitch, adjust the stitch width control setting, with the dial remaining on the Red Dot setting.

to the desired

12

SPECIAL

MENDING

STITCH

BLIND

STITCH

SETTING

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category.

For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears.

Use of the stitch setting shown is given in more detail in the next section under Mending.

Blind hems are made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above.

For more detailed instructions in blind hemming, see next section of the book.

SPECIAL

ELASTIC

EDGE STITCH

STRETCH

STITCH

j

The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing, combining fabrics and so on. Details on the use of this stitch are given in the nextsection.

13

.

The setting illustrated is used for special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require stretch.

See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitch.

OVERCAST

STRETCH

STITCH

SMOCKING

Overcast stretch stitching is made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above.

Detaileg instructions are given the book.

STRETCH

in the

STITCH

next

section

of

SETTING

STRETCH

STITCH

You can make smocking stretch stitching by setting the dial to the setting indicated above.

See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches.

BUTTONHOLE

SETTING

I

Stretch stitching is easily done by setting the dial to the setting indicated above.

Details on the use of this stitch are given of the book.

in the

next

section

The three settings shown above are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole.

Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book.

14

OTHER

ADJUSTMENTS

OF SEWING

MACHINE

In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.

PRESSURE

small

REGULATOR

Model1020,

1030, 1040, 1045

Model

1050

Fig. 2

Fig. 1

Push

down

pressure

the

outer

on the presser

To increase obtained.

the

ring foot.

pressure,

of

the

(See push

pressure

regulator.

This

will

release

the

Fig. 1 above). down

inner

pin

until

a suitable

pressure

is

The pressure on the presser foot is regulated by turning the dial of this regulator which is situated in face cover plate (See Fig. 2 above). To increase the pressure, turn the dial clockwise,

until a suitable

pressure is obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric.

If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

15

SEWING

LIGHT

The light and power switch shown in Fig. 1 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light.

In order to operate the machine, this switch must be on. To turn on the light, depress the upper side of the switch.

If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally.

Fig. 1

The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb, turn light off, and swing the face cover plate open. Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.

Remove bulb from socket.

Push in new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.

Fig. 2

16

SEAM Seam

GUIDES

guides

are printed

on either

side

of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric.

THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE Cornering

Guide

OF

THE "ALL LINE.

THE

NEEDLE

IMPORTANT"

PLATE 5/8"

IS

SEAM

The corneripg guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge.

See next section of this book for directions.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement fabrics under the presser foot, can "up"

raise

position.

changing

17

the your

foot

beyond

This presser

is also feet.

of heavy the lever

the

normal

an aid

in

NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable

to the fabric

I

I

II

I

i

j

II

I

(See next page).

Fig. 1

Never use a bent needle or one with blunt point.

a

Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle.

Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length.

You will find among your accessories a ..e x_:_:ll[,_:"_with blue shank.

This special needle is to be used when sewing certain knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics.

If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use o x_:l-:l_[,_:.. .

PLACEMENT

OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver.

!'" l_l

''_

J

Flat side away from

II V

you.

18

NEEDLE,

THREAD,

THREAD

FABRIC

SIZE

NEEDLE SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Polyester Silk A

Synthetic

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Synthetic Silk A

50 Mercerized

9orll

14

Cotton

Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Synthetic Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Polyester Synthetic Silk A

Silk Buttonhole

CHART

Twist

Polyester Synthetic 50 Mercerized Cotton

Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffetta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

14 or 16

Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather

18

Heavy Weight : Coatings, Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Cotton

16, 18 or "Q NEEI)LE",= "'0 SET",. ("Q NEEDLE",.

I and "Q FOOT",. )

19

FABRIC

Decorative

Top-stitching

on all

Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics: Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot

FASTENING

A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.

Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.

Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam.

TURNING

-,. _

_

•,,,

,

{,!-,

_ "_<,J

Corned

n

g

Guide

A SQUARE

CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown.

Raise the presser foot, turn fabric.

New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.

ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Any Number Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag

needle plate.

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine.

This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole, monogram, and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine.

Simply use the settings indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag.

Follow directions given in the following pages for more specific uses.

25

STRETCH STITCHING The stitches

shown

below

are special

stitches

built

are all for use with stretch in to the

machine

for your

and knit fabrics. quick

selection. \/X

1. Straight Stretch 2. Rick- Rack Stretch

|

These

A

/\/

\/

/\)

3. Smocking Stretch 4. Elastic Stretch 5. Overcast Stretch

/ \/ |

\/\

/\/ \/\

/\/

\/\

/\/ \

db 速速

"-4

/\

速

速

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - _t_J Stitch Width ControlRed Dot Stitch Length Control - 8 Straight Stitch Foot Use straight

stitching

Use this stretch fabric and other

plate.

stitch fabrics

with that

knitted stretch.

Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming.

The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric.

Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch.

Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

26

RICK-RACK STITCHING

STRETCH

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - III Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zig zag stitch.

This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch

as well.

SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS

Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers across the fabric that you wish to smock.

Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - 8_ Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot

With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers. The design will be a series of small diamonds.

When smocking a garment, the stitching should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment.

27

OVERCAST STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot

- 3 to 4 - 8

This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is formed and finished in one operation.

It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING

Fig. 1

SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - I_ Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot

- 8

This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie. The stitch is decorative as well as useful. Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment, making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced.

To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters and match these markings with center front and back of the garment as well as side seams.

28

SPECIAL After the finishing Kenmore done by

FINISHING

STITCHES

........

basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the has been_designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be hand.

SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Any Number 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Satin Stitch Foot Use zigzag stitching

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole

plate.

This is an attractive making.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly.

The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric.

As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design before starting the design on the garment.

on your fabric

APPLIOUEING SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place.

Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color.

29

BUTTONHOLE MAKING SETTINGS Stitch

Width

Control

- 4

Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag stitching

- Red Zone

plate.

1. Carefully mark the position and length of each buttonhole on your garment.

Select the proper size buttonhole guide foot to correspond with the length of buttonhole.

\ Fig. 1

2, Mount the guide foot onto the presser foot.

Holding on to the top thread, rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn.

Pull the upper thread under and to the back of the buttonhole guide

foot.

See Figs. 1 & 2.

3. Note in Fig. 3 that each guide foot has a dot on the right ed;_ toward the back of the foot, and on the left edge near the front of the foot. These dots are used as a point of reference for your bartacking steps in buttonholing.

(See next page).

4. Slide the guide foot forward until the rear edge of the presser foot is at the rear edge of the guide.

5. Place the fabric with the marked buttonhole under the guide foot.

Lower the presser foot lever and follow steps on next page.

(Check Hints for Perfect holes on Page 32.)

g. 2

Hinge

Fig. 3

Button-

3O

|

Step

1

Step

2

1. Set special stitch dial at r'l and bartack several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole.

Stop sewing at the left stitch.

Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you manually.

2. Set special stitch dial at "iq.

Stitch forward until the hinged the presser foot aligns with the dot on the left side of the guide foot. The toe of the presser foot will be touching the guide foot.

Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to position as in Step 1.

Step

31

Step

3

3. Set special stitch dial at E] again and needle at its highest position as in steps 4.

portion of buttonhole end of the its highest

bartack 1 & 2.

several

times.

4

Raise

Set special stitch dial at G. and continue sewing until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the right side of the guide foot.

You will have reached the bartacking done in Step 1.

HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES

< <

Start

The presser foot and buttonhole guide foot should be in this position at the start of the buttonhole sewing.

The needle must be lowered at the marked line for the beginning of the buttonhole.

See Fig. 1.

/

be in

presser

foot

position

buttonhole

To make

and

guide

shown

in

Fig.

foot

will

<

< < < < < <

When the full length of the buttonhole is reached, the presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig. 2.

The

< <

Fig. 1 REAR

1 when

is completed.

firm

well

stitched

button-

holes in heavier fabrics, repeat only steps 1 and 3 on the preceding page.

Fig. 2

If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching as shown in Fig. 3, slightly adjust the stitch length control during forward sewing.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use.

Try the buttonhole with the button you will use.

Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching.

1

,

Fig. 3

32

BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Feed DogsDown Zigzag

Presser

Dot

Foot

Use zigzag stitching

plate.

1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely.

2. Turn hand wheel manually until neeclle point is just above button.

3. Adjust needle button.

stitch width will enter left

control so hole of the

4. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole.

Readjust stitch width if necessary.

Stitch a number of times.

5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining.

Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie.

BAR TACKING SETTINGS

M

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4

m

w

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching

!

I I ! !

I' !

I

! ! !

33

o!

plate.

This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie.

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

BLIND

HEMMING

SETTINGS Special Stitch DialStitch Width Control - 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10 Zigzag foot or blindstitch Use zigzag stitching After

guide

plate.

you have turned

up the hem width

Fig.

1 Raw

edge fold

desired, turn raw edge over 1/2" and stitch this fold with a basting stitch Press.

Fold

hem

back

against

garmet with basted about 1/8" to right

right

side

of

Fig. 2 Hem folded back

raw edge extending of garment fold.

34

Fig. 3 Fabric

placed

in blindstitch

Fig. 4 Stitching stitch.

along

Fig. 5 Finished

hem

garment.

35

fold

on

with

right

guide.

Place the fold of the hem in the slots of the attachment for guiding the fabric. Make certain zigzag stitch catches the fold of by adjusting the blindstitch slightly from left to right.

two left ease in that the the hem guide

blind

side

of

Remove basting and press hem. Right side of garment will show only the blind stitches as in Fig. 5.

ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot

Stitch Length Foot

Control - 12 to 10

Zipper

Use straight

stitching

REGULAR The

foot

right

is adjustable side

for

of the

the regular type the foot so the

the side Carefully the

ZIPPER

or left

sewing Adjust

plate.

the

when

of zipper. needle clears

notch on the foot. follow directions

zipper

use on

needle

See Fig. 1. given on

package.

Fig. 1

INVISIBLE

ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot teeth of the zipper.

See Fig. facturer's

2. Follow instructions.

the

is riding zipper

on the manu-

After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch.

Fig, 2

CORDING Foot can also be. used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3.

Fig. 3

36

SPECIAL EDGE STITCH SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch

Width

Control-

Stitch Length ControlZigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag stitching

1 to 4 Red Zone

plate.

This is an attractive overcasting stitch you may want to use on fabrics that fray easily.

MENDING SETTINGS

.;._._._._._.;.:.:._ _.,:.:-:._._._,:.'-_,'-'.'.'.'.'.'-'-'.','.'.

- -....

-.......q;

Special Stitch Dial - ?.: Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use straight

.* ,,.,-

*., ,.,,,,,

...

• ,, .>. -., *.

,...,

* • .,,,.+.::,.:,.:,.

stitching

plate.

,.,

To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center.

It is well to use a :::::-:::.:.:.:.:._ :.:.:.::.: piece of fabric under the tear for re:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: inforcement. ,,*.,.,*,,,,., •..,,

• • ...,,..

,...,

[iiii!i!iiiiiii!!iiiiiiii!iiiii!!iii!!]iii[ii[i!i]i

"i'_.:'2.1.2._.:.i.2,[,; '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.-

DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Pressure Regulator - 0 Feed Dogs - Up No Presser Foot

37

Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered.

Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.

Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a slow to medium speed. Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area.

When it is covered, turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching.

38

_0

3. Checking Performance Problems WHAT TO DO PROBLEM

PROBABLE Incorrect

CORRECTION Choose

size needle.

Improper threading.

Loose upper thread Pulling fabric.

Irregular Stitches

CAUSE correct

Rethread tension.

Light pressure on presser Loose presser foot.

foot.

Unevenly wound bobbin.

Nicks or burrs on shuttle.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle

size needle

for thread

and fabric.

machine.

Tighten upper thread tension.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Reset presser foot.

Rewind bobbin.

Replace

shuttle,

Replace

needle

or polish plate,

off

burrs

or polish

off

completely. burrs

completely.

plate.

Breaking Needle

Bunching Thread

of

Pulling fabric.

Incorrect size needle.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Choose correct size needle for thread

Incorrect setting of needle.

Loose presser foot.

Reset

Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before

When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few are formed.

starting Incorrect

Puckering

thread

tension(s).

Light pressure on presser Using two different sizes of thread.

Bent or blunt needle.

Loose Fabric

Reset presser

seam.

foot. or kinds

presser foot. too sheer or too soft.

and fabric.

needle. foot.

Reset thread tension(s).

Increase pressure on presser

foot.

Upper thread and bobbin thread should Insert

new

needle.

Reset presser Use underlay

foot, of tissue

paper.

under and stitches

be same size and kind.

PROBLEM

PROBABLE Incorrect

Skipping Stitches

Breaking Upper Thread

CAUSE

size needle.

Certain knits and synthetics.

Bent or blunt needle.

Incorrect

setting

Tight

upper

Light

pressure

of needle.

thread on

tension. presser

foot.

Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise

Choose correct size needle for thread Use "Q NEF, I)I,E",_.

Insert Reset

Loosen upper thread tension.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.

Sharp eye in needle.

Nicks or burrs on shuttle.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle

Insert

Loosen Choose

speed.

upper thread tension. correct size needle for thread shuttle,

or polish

off burrs

Feed dog down.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Raise feed dog.

Thread caught in shuttle.

completely.

Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Check bobbin case threading.

Loosen bobbin thread tension.

Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

under fabric.

and fabric.

new needle.

Replace

Improper bobbin case threading.

Tight bobbin thread tension.

Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.

Thread knotted

and fabric.

new needle. needle.

Starting to stitch too fast.

Improper threading.

Tight upper thread tension.

Incorrect size needle.

plate.

Breaking Bobbin Thread

CORRECTION

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Place both threads back under presser beginning

foot

before

to stitch.

Disassemble and clean shuttle.

4:= O

[]

Caring for the Machine CLEANING

AND

Fig. 1 Cleaning brush•

OILING

the feed dogs with

a

To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times• Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle 1

area and around

the feed dogs.

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Clean the Shuttle

To

lever--_

.-,---lever

Shuttle

Area:

1. This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread.

Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case.

Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.

,

Assembly

Assembly

3. Clean the brush.

shuttle

race with

small

Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race.

,

(see arrows) Shuttle

Race

Cover

To Replace

onted hook Shuttle

driver

,

Position

Shuttle shuttle

Assembly: race

as illustrated

so that shuttle driver half moon on the left machine• •

Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side.

Pointed hook will be on the bottom.

3. Place shuttle race cover over shuttle assembly•

Shuttle

41

Race

Fig. 2

is forming side of tile

into place

OILING

UNDER

ARM

COVER

Remove arm cover plate to oil points To remove cover plate lift cover.

PLATE indicated

in top

of machine

head.

42

OILING

UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine underside (C),

(D)

head

and

(E)

B

43

back and remove

of machine.

To

remove

as shown

below.

bottom

cover to oil points

bottom

cover,

remove

indicated

screws

(A),

on (B),

OILING

IN FACE

COVER

Swing hinged face cover plate points indicated in illustration.

PLATE open

and

remove

arm cover

plate to oil

SEWING Now

MACHINE

that

you

have

purchased

your

Sewing

Machine,

need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores.

Be sure to provide facts

when

you

The model

number

of your

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR FOLLOWING INFORMATION: NUMBER

If the parts electronically Center

for

SEARS,

S - 158

a

contact any and Co. or all pertinent

call or visit.

Sewing

Machine

will

your nomenclature plate on the right side Machine.

See Section 1, page 3 for location.

*MODEL

should

*NAME

PARTS,

OF ITEM

you need are not stocked transmitted to a Sears

of

ALWAYS

*PART locally, Repair

be shown your

on

Sewing

GIVE

THE

DESCRIPTION

your order will be Parts Distribution

handling.

ROEBUCK

AND

CO.,

Chicago,

IL 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. 69565

11/91