69565
TABLE OF CONTENTS Knowing Your Sewing Machine Identifying Parts ................................. Connecting Machine ..............................
1-2 3
Threading - Bobbin .............................. Top Thread ........................................
4 -5 6
Using the Controls Top Tension Control
7 -8
...........................
Adjusting Bobbin Tension ...................... Stitch Length Control ............................ Stitch Width Control ............................. Reverse Stitch Control .......................... Feed Dog Control ................................. Special Stitch Dial ........................... Pressure
Regulator
Sewing Light Seam Guides
...............................
...................................... ......................................
9 10 10 11 11 12- 14 15 16 17
Accessories Needles
.............................................
Needle,
Thread,
Fabric
Chart
18
..................
19
Presser Feet ........................................ Buttonhole Guide Feet ..........................
20 21
Zigzag and Straight Stitching Needle Plate .................................................
22
Starting to Sew ..................................... Garment Construction Stitches Straight
Stitching
Zigzag Stitching Stretch Stitching Special
Finishing
................................ .................................. ............................
23 24 25 26 - 28
Stitches
Satin Stitching, Appliqueing ................... 29 Buttonhole Making ......................... 30 - 32 Button Sewing, Bar Tacking ................... 33 Blind Hemming .................. : ........... 34 - 35 Zipper Application ................................ 36 Special
Edge Stitch,
Checking
Performance
Mending, Problems
Darning
..... 37
.........
39 - 40
Caring for the Machine Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ................ Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ....................
41 42
Oiling
43
Underside
....................................
Oiling Face Cover Plate ........................... Parts List ........................................
69565
44 45 - 46
Knowing Your Sewing Machi
,--_1.
FRONT
VIEW
@
@ © -@
@ ® ® ® ® ® ® _
@
@ (_'
.
11. Thread Guide
Box
2.
Hinged
Extension
12. Take-up
3.
Needle
Plate
13. Top Thread Tension
4.
Zigzag
5.
Presser
Foot
6.
Thread
7.
Stitching
Plate
14. Threading
Lever
Guide
Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control
Thread
Guide
17.
Reverse Stitch
8.
Thread
Tension
9.
Thread
Guide
18. 19.
Stitch Length Nomenclature
Face Cover
Plate
Regulator
Control
Path
15. 16.
10.
1
Accessory
Control Control Plate
BACK VIEW r
@ ® @
.@ @
@
@
7
@ \
.@
@ ®
/
26.
Bobbin
Winder
Connector
27.
Thread
Guide
22.
Hand
28.
Presser
Foot Lever
23.
Bobbin
Winder
Shaft
29.
Thread
Cutter
24.
Bobbin
Winder
Latch
30.
Needle
Clamp
25.
Thread
Spool
31.
Feed Dogs
20.
Light
21.
and Power
Switch
Wheel
Pin
Tension
Disc
Screw
2
CONNECTING
MACHINE
速 %
速
速
速
1. Lift hinged extension at side of machine bed-plate. 2.
the
left
For more sewing space, tip the bed plate cover up by pushing right edge as shown in Fig. 2. Turn the accessory box toward you as shown in Fig. 2.
3. Fig. 3. shows the machine ready to sew with all the extensions in place for maximum sewing space.
3
4.
Push the connector column.
plug onto three-prong at the back of machine
5.
Plug machine cord into 120 volt wall outlet. power by pushing switch.
6. Pull up spool machine.
light
pin stored
any 110Turn on and power at top
of
_B
WINDING
THE BOBBIN
速
速
速
速
,
,
.
Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown in Fig. 1. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin and place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin, fitting the notch on the bobbin over locking stud on the shaft as shown in Fig. 2. Push bobbin winder bobbin until it clicks.
latch
4.
Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob as shown in Fig. 4. Start machine, holding onto end of thread. When bobbin is slightly filled, release end of thread.
5.
When bobbin is mechanism stops.
6.
Push in hand wheel or turning clutch knob to return to stitching position. Remove bobbin.
full,
winding
against
4
THREADING
THE BOBBIN
CASE
® ,j
i_ I
.
k
,.
\
®
®
®
®
®
1. To remove bobbin case from the shuttle, raise needle to its highest position. 2. Open bed plate cover, accessory box. ,
4.
.
5
Pull open
latch
Pull bobbin shuttle.
and remove
of bobbin
case
straight
case. out
of
Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown.
.
7.
Pull thread shown. Pull
thread
through under
slot of case as tension
8. Holding latch open, position into shuttle, and release latch. should lock into place when is released. .
spring. case Case latch
Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.
THREADING Model
OF TOP THREAD
1050
_
_
(_
d_
®
Model1020,
1030, 1040, 1045
(_/
®
6
TOP TENSION
Model
CONTROL
1050
Model1020,
1030, 1040, 1045
Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of the control. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.
There for
are many
one fabric
upon fabric
the
reasons
may
stiffness
being
sewn,
not
for
having
be correct
of the
fabric,
as well
7
for
reset
your
another.
thickness
as the
It is best to test the stitching starting to make a garment.
to
type
tension.
The
required
of the fabric, of stitch
The
you
best
tension
numbers
tension depends
of layers
of
are making.
on a scrap of the fabric you are using before To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.
ADJUSTING
TOP TENSIONS
A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.
(_
Upper thread
too tight
Decrease
Tension
(_
Upper thread
too loose
Increase Tension
8
ADJUSTING
BOBBIN
Bobbin tension.
requires
If the
tension
stitch
is satisfactory
loosen the tension them as indicated
When adjusting a screwdriver.
DECREASE
TENSIONS adjusting
but
the
on both the top on Page 9.
the tension
less
seam
frequently
is puckered,
and bottom
on the bobbin
than
it may
threads.
upper
be necessary
to
Be sure to balance
with
TENSION
Counter
Clockwise.
TENSION
Turn
9
thread
case, make slight adjustments
Turn
INCREASE
the
Clockwise.
STITCH
LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control located on the right side of the machine the length of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.
regulates
The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing. A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The middle range of the control the most commonly used. A basting per inch.
is the 10-1 2 stitch
per inch range which
stitch is made by using the longest possible
The marking _ such as in Satin
STITCH
on this control Stitching.
WIDTH
is the setting
stitch setting
is
- 6 stitches
used for the shortest
stitches
CONTROL
I m ilmll m m
This control NUMBER
regulates - THE
by adjusting
this
This
must
control
the width
WIDER control be on
THE
of the
STITCH.
to the Red
setting
Dot
stitch
you
select.
THE
You may vary your zigzag you
in order
HIGHER stitch
THE width
desire. to do straight
stitching.
10
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL
It is best to begin is called and
back
prevents
and end seams
tacking.
Back
with
tacking
a few fastens
stitches the
taken
ends
in reverse.
of the
seams
This firmly
raveling.
When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise there during sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding and seam will be fastened.
and hold backwards
FEED DOG CONTROL
The feed dog control is located on the machine behind accessory box. There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. When the control is pushed down, the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric. For most
up).
11
of your
sewing,
turn
the control
to the
up position.
(Feed
dog
SPECIAL
STITCH
DIAL
There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand.
THE RED DOT SETTING
The Red Dot setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitchingeither straight or simple zigzag. When the stitch width is set on the Red Dot and the Special Stitch Dial on the Red Dot setting, you may straight stitch.
For a simple zigzag stitch, adjust the stitch width control setting, with the dial remaining on the Red Dot setting.
to the desired
12
SPECIAL
MENDING
STITCH
BLIND
STITCH
SETTING
You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. Use of the stitch setting shown is given in more detail in the next section under Mending.
Blind hems are made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above. For more detailed instructions in blind hemming, see next section of the book.
SPECIAL
ELASTIC
EDGE STITCH
STRETCH
STITCH
j
The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing, combining fabrics and so on. Details on the use of this stitch are given in the nextsection.
13
.
The setting illustrated is used for special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require stretch. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitch.
OVERCAST
STRETCH
STITCH
SMOCKING
Overcast stretch stitching is made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above. Detaileg instructions are given the book.
STRETCH
in the
STITCH
next
section
of
SETTING
STRETCH
STITCH
You can make smocking stretch stitching by setting the dial to the setting indicated above. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches.
BUTTONHOLE
SETTING
I
Stretch stitching is easily done by setting the dial to the setting indicated above. Details on the use of this stitch are given of the book.
in the
next
section
The three settings shown above are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole. Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book.
14
OTHER
ADJUSTMENTS
OF SEWING
MACHINE
In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.
PRESSURE
small
REGULATOR
Model1020,
1030, 1040, 1045
Model
1050
Fig. 2
Fig. 1
Push
down
pressure
the
outer
on the presser
To increase obtained.
the
ring foot.
pressure,
of
the
(See push
pressure
regulator.
This
will
release
the
Fig. 1 above). down
inner
pin
until
a suitable
pressure
is
The pressure on the presser foot is regulated by turning the dial of this regulator which is situated in face cover plate (See Fig. 2 above). To increase the pressure, turn the dial clockwise,
until a suitable
pressure is obtained.
Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.
15
SEWING
LIGHT
The light and power switch shown in Fig. 1 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light. In order to operate the machine, this switch must be on. To turn on the light, depress the upper side of the switch. If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally. Fig. 1
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb, turn light off, and swing the face cover plate open. Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise. Remove bulb from socket. Push in new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.
Fig. 2
16
SEAM Seam
GUIDES
guides
are printed
on either
side
of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE Cornering
Guide
OF
THE "ALL LINE.
THE
NEEDLE
IMPORTANT"
PLATE 5/8"
IS
SEAM
The corneripg guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book for directions.
PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement fabrics under the presser foot, can "up"
raise
position.
changing
17
the your
foot
beyond
This presser
is also feet.
of heavy the lever
the
normal
an aid
in
NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable
to the fabric
I
I
II
I
i
j
II
I
(See next page). Fig. 1
Never use a bent needle or one with blunt point.
a
Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length. You will find among your accessories a ..e x_:_:ll[,_:"_with blue shank. This special needle is to be used when sewing certain knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use o x_:l-:l_[,_:.. .
PLACEMENT
OF NEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver.
!'" l_l
''_
J
Flat side away from
II V
you.
18
NEEDLE,
THREAD,
THREAD
FABRIC
SIZE
NEEDLE SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Polyester Silk A
Synthetic
50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Synthetic Silk A
50 Mercerized
9orll
14
Cotton
Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Synthetic Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Polyester Synthetic Silk A
Silk Buttonhole
CHART
Twist
Polyester Synthetic 50 Mercerized Cotton
Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffetta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather
14 or 16
Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather
18
Heavy Weight : Coatings, Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas
Cotton
16, 18 or "Q NEEI)LE",= "'0 SET",. ("Q NEEDLE",. I and "Q FOOT",. )
19
FABRIC
Decorative
Top-stitching
on all
Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics: Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot
FASTENING
A SEAM
Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam. Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam.
TURNING
-,. _
_
•,,,
,
{,!-,
_ "_<,J
Corned
n
g
Guide
A SQUARE
CORNER
To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.
ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Any Number Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag
needle plate.
This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole, monogram, and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine. Simply use the settings indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the following pages for more specific uses.
25
STRETCH STITCHING The stitches
shown
below
are special
stitches
built
are all for use with stretch in to the
machine
for your
and knit fabrics. quick
selection. \/X
1. Straight Stretch 2. Rick- Rack Stretch
|
These
A
/\/
\/
/\)
3. Smocking Stretch 4. Elastic Stretch 5. Overcast Stretch
/ \/ |
\/\
/\/ \/\
/\/
\/\
/\/ \
db 速速
"-4
/\
速
速
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - _t_J Stitch Width ControlRed Dot Stitch Length Control - 8 Straight Stitch Foot Use straight
stitching
Use this stretch fabric and other
plate.
stitch fabrics
with that
knitted stretch.
Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.
26
RICK-RACK STITCHING
STRETCH
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - III Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zig zag stitch. This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch
as well.
SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS
Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers across the fabric that you wish to smock. Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - 8_ Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot
With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers. The design will be a series of small diamonds. When smocking a garment, the stitching should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment.
27
OVERCAST STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot
- 3 to 4 - 8
This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.
ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING
Fig. 1
SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - I_ Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot
- 8
This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie. The stitch is decorative as well as useful. Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment, making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced. To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters and match these markings with center front and back of the garment as well as side seams.
28
SPECIAL After the finishing Kenmore done by
FINISHING
STITCHES
........
basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the has been_designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be hand.
SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Any Number 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Satin Stitch Foot Use zigzag stitching
Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole
plate.
This is an attractive making.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be. If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric. As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design before starting the design on the garment.
on your fabric
APPLIOUEING SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color.
29
BUTTONHOLE MAKING SETTINGS Stitch
Width
Control
- 4
Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot
Use zigzag stitching
- Red Zone
plate.
1. Carefully mark the position and length of each buttonhole on your garment. Select the proper size buttonhole guide foot to correspond with the length of buttonhole.
\ Fig. 1
2, Mount the guide foot onto the presser foot. Holding on to the top thread, rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn. Pull the upper thread under and to the back of the buttonhole guide
foot.
See Figs. 1 & 2.
3. Note in Fig. 3 that each guide foot has a dot on the right ed;_ toward the back of the foot, and on the left edge near the front of the foot. These dots are used as a point of reference for your bartacking steps in buttonholing. (See next page). 4. Slide the guide foot forward until the rear edge of the presser foot is at the rear edge of the guide. 5. Place the fabric with the marked buttonhole under the guide foot. Lower the presser foot lever and follow steps on next page. (Check Hints for Perfect holes on Page 32.)
g. 2
Hinge
Fig. 3
Button-
3O
|
Step
1
Step
2
1. Set special stitch dial at r'l and bartack several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you manually. 2. Set special stitch dial at "iq. Stitch forward until the hinged the presser foot aligns with the dot on the left side of the guide foot. The toe of the presser foot will be touching the guide foot. Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to position as in Step 1.
Step
31
Step
3
3. Set special stitch dial at E] again and needle at its highest position as in steps 4.
portion of buttonhole end of the its highest
bartack 1 & 2.
several
times.
4
Raise
Set special stitch dial at G. and continue sewing until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the right side of the guide foot. You will have reached the bartacking done in Step 1.
HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES
< <
Start
The presser foot and buttonhole guide foot should be in this position at the start of the buttonhole sewing. The needle must be lowered at the marked line for the beginning of the buttonhole. See Fig. 1.
/
be in
presser
foot
position
buttonhole
To make
and
guide
shown
in
Fig.
foot
will
<
< < < < < <
When the full length of the buttonhole is reached, the presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig. 2. The
< <
Fig. 1 REAR
1 when
is completed.
firm
well
stitched
button-
holes in heavier fabrics, repeat only steps 1 and 3 on the preceding page.
Fig. 2
If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching as shown in Fig. 3, slightly adjust the stitch length control during forward sewing. Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use. Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching.
1
,
Fig. 3
32
BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Feed DogsDown Zigzag
Presser
Dot
Foot
Use zigzag stitching
plate.
1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2. Turn hand wheel manually until neeclle point is just above button. 3. Adjust needle button.
stitch width will enter left
control so hole of the
4. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times. 5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie.
BAR TACKING SETTINGS
M
Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4
m
w
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching
!
I I ! ! I' ! I
! ! !
33
o!
plate.
This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
BLIND
HEMMING
SETTINGS Special Stitch DialStitch Width Control - 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10 Zigzag foot or blindstitch Use zigzag stitching After
guide
plate.
you have turned
up the hem width
Fig.
1 Raw
edge fold
desired, turn raw edge over 1/2" and stitch this fold with a basting stitch Press.
Fold
hem
back
against
garmet with basted about 1/8" to right
right
side
of
Fig. 2 Hem folded back
raw edge extending of garment fold.
34
Fig. 3 Fabric
placed
in blindstitch
Fig. 4 Stitching stitch.
along
Fig. 5 Finished
hem
garment.
35
fold
on
with
right
guide.
Place the fold of the hem in the slots of the attachment for guiding the fabric. Make certain zigzag stitch catches the fold of by adjusting the blindstitch slightly from left to right.
two left ease in that the the hem guide
blind
side
of
Remove basting and press hem. Right side of garment will show only the blind stitches as in Fig. 5.
ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Stitch Length Foot
Control - 12 to 10
Zipper
Use straight
stitching
REGULAR The
foot
right
is adjustable side
for
of the
the regular type the foot so the
the side Carefully the
ZIPPER
or left
sewing Adjust
plate.
the
when
of zipper. needle clears
notch on the foot. follow directions
zipper
use on
needle
See Fig. 1. given on
package.
Fig. 1
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot teeth of the zipper. See Fig. facturer's
2. Follow instructions.
the
is riding zipper
on the manu-
After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch.
Fig, 2
CORDING Foot can also be. used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3.
Fig. 3
36
SPECIAL EDGE STITCH SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch
Width
Control-
Stitch Length ControlZigzag Presser Foot
Use zigzag stitching
1 to 4 Red Zone
plate.
This is an attractive overcasting stitch you may want to use on fabrics that fray easily.
MENDING SETTINGS
.;._._._._._.;.:.:._ _.,:.:-:._._._,:.'-_,'-'.'.'.'.'.'-'-'.','.'. - -.... -.......q;
Special Stitch Dial - ?.: Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use straight
.* ,,.,-
*., ,.,,,,,
...
• ,, .>. -., *.
,...,
* • .,,,.+.::,.:,.:,.
stitching
plate.
,.,
To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is well to use a :::::-:::.:.:.:.:._ :.:.:.::.: piece of fabric under the tear for re:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: inforcement. ,,*.,.,*,,,,., •..,,
• • ...,,..
,...,
[iiii!i!iiiiiii!!iiiiiiii!iiiii!!iii!!]iii[ii[i!i]i
"i'_.:'2.1.2._.:.i.2,[,; '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.-
DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Pressure Regulator - 0 Feed Dogs - Up No Presser Foot
37
Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning. Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a slow to medium speed. Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area. When it is covered, turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching.
38
_0
3. Checking Performance Problems WHAT TO DO PROBLEM
PROBABLE Incorrect
CORRECTION Choose
size needle.
Improper threading. Loose upper thread Pulling fabric. Irregular Stitches
CAUSE correct
Rethread tension.
Light pressure on presser Loose presser foot.
foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
size needle
for thread
and fabric.
machine.
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Increase pressure on presser foot. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace
shuttle,
Replace
needle
or polish plate,
off
burrs
or polish
off
completely. burrs
completely.
plate.
Breaking Needle
Bunching Thread
of
Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread
Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot.
Reset
Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few are formed.
starting Incorrect
Puckering
thread
tension(s).
Light pressure on presser Using two different sizes of thread. Bent or blunt needle. Loose Fabric
Reset presser
seam.
foot. or kinds
presser foot. too sheer or too soft.
and fabric.
needle. foot.
Reset thread tension(s). Increase pressure on presser
foot.
Upper thread and bobbin thread should Insert
new
needle.
Reset presser Use underlay
foot, of tissue
paper.
under and stitches
be same size and kind.
PROBLEM
PROBABLE Incorrect
Skipping Stitches
Breaking Upper Thread
CAUSE
size needle.
Certain knits and synthetics. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect
setting
Tight
upper
Light
pressure
of needle.
thread on
tension. presser
foot.
Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise
Choose correct size needle for thread Use "Q NEF, I)I,E",_. Insert Reset
Loosen upper thread tension. Increase pressure on presser foot. Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.
Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
Insert
Loosen Choose
speed.
upper thread tension. correct size needle for thread shuttle,
or polish
off burrs
Feed dog down. Light pressure on presser foot.
Raise feed dog.
Thread caught in shuttle.
completely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Check bobbin case threading. Loosen bobbin thread tension. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
under fabric.
and fabric.
new needle.
Replace
Improper bobbin case threading. Tight bobbin thread tension. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Thread knotted
and fabric.
new needle. needle.
Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle.
plate. Breaking Bobbin Thread
CORRECTION
Increase pressure on presser foot. Place both threads back under presser beginning
foot
before
to stitch.
Disassemble and clean shuttle.
4:= O
[]
Caring for the Machine CLEANING
AND
Fig. 1 Cleaning brush•
OILING
the feed dogs with
a
To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times• Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle 1
area and around
the feed dogs.
Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Clean the Shuttle
To
lever--_
.-,---lever
Shuttle
Area:
1. This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.
,
Assembly
Assembly
3. Clean the brush.
shuttle
race with
small
Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race.
,
(see arrows) Shuttle
Race
Cover
To Replace
onted hook Shuttle
driver
,
Position
Shuttle shuttle
Assembly: race
as illustrated
so that shuttle driver half moon on the left machine• •
Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook will be on the bottom.
3. Place shuttle race cover over shuttle assembly•
Shuttle
41
Race
Fig. 2
is forming side of tile
into place
OILING
UNDER
ARM
COVER
Remove arm cover plate to oil points To remove cover plate lift cover.
PLATE indicated
in top
of machine
head.
42
OILING
UNDERSIDE
Tilt machine underside (C),
(D)
head
and
(E)
B
43
back and remove
of machine.
To
remove
as shown
below.
bottom
cover to oil points
bottom
cover,
remove
indicated
screws
(A),
on (B),
OILING
IN FACE
COVER
Swing hinged face cover plate points indicated in illustration.
PLATE open
and
remove
arm cover
plate to oil
SEWING Now
MACHINE
that
you
have
purchased
your
Sewing
Machine,
need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide facts
when
you
The model
number
of your
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR FOLLOWING INFORMATION: NUMBER
If the parts electronically Center
for
SEARS,
S - 158
a
contact any and Co. or all pertinent
call or visit. Sewing
Machine
will
your nomenclature plate on the right side Machine. See Section 1, page 3 for location.
*MODEL
should
*NAME
PARTS,
OF ITEM
you need are not stocked transmitted to a Sears
of
ALWAYS
*PART locally, Repair
be shown your
on
Sewing
GIVE
THE
DESCRIPTION
your order will be Parts Distribution
handling.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO.,
Chicago,
IL 60684 U.S.A.
Part No. 69565
11/91