LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I mvA'^.
I
UNITED
y;0psnsl'i ;\o-
STATI-:S UF
AMEIMCA
\
DIVISIONAL
EXACT MEASUREMENT
k\m FOR GARMENT CUTTING, Wf'o. LI
NTH ICU M,
(S^ditof of I^intliiduni'^ Joui'qhl of
J^kfdiioiigi,)
New
No. 174 Fifth Avenue. Containing with
Forty
Diagrams,
twelve
special
and
giving
explanatory divisions explicit
of
both
systems,
and
for
Drafting
by
adapted directions
M\y
for
Measuring,
accompanied the
Divisional
Drafting,
VOf(-K:
LAWRENCE & ALLEN. STATIONERS AND PRINTERS,
No. 20
York,
VESEY STREET.
&c.
by
a
System,
measure,
Xo-
-
PREFACE THEpopularity me
to
produce
If
I
this
were to
new and
my
revised edition.
opportunity
let this
ciative patrons in their
on Garment Cuttino; beinp; exliausted, its and the continued demand for tlie work, lias impelled
Sj^st^m, or treatise
in tlie profession
wide circulation of
ways
my
print of
first
first
jiass
jjublication,
who have
the profession,
approbation of the
ideas
without
and
noticing
and
sale
many
and
appre-
read and manifested in various
purchased,
advanced
the very large
thanking the veiy
heartily-
teachings inculcated
I
;
would
in
truth be more calloiis to fair treatment, and less appreciative and generously disposed
than
I desire to
appear to
have received from of them,
coming from masters
undertaking,
this
The countless testimonials and
be.
artists in the trade,
second
this
in
from
all
the profession,
.
effort
in
flattering
words that
I
over our great country, and a majority
have done more to stimulate
authorship,
me
the pecuniary reward
than
to
fore-
shadowed. In the preparation of this work
I
have not found
it
mateiially any of the rules or teachings set forth in the the scope, to add to
comprehensiveness.
its
bination of systems on a scientific basis, followed,
would
as
in
clear
prepared diagrams.
known
comprehending
fact
With
by nearly
body-coats, surtouts,
system, or com-
possible,
shorn
half
It
of every will
thing
that
be found to be
an hundred carefully and
artisticall}"
any
over-sacks,
trousers of every style, ladies'
garment manufactured
by the trade. Though and useful knowledge, the woi'k will not be considered
every style of
all this interesting
bulk}^ or verbose in
my
These diagrams are produced with a view to aid in the cutting of
style of in
volume; only to enlarge
founded
presenting the methods and principles to be
and practicable a form as
elegantly and accurately illustrated
every
first
I have, I think,
confuse the student of average intelligence.
perjilex or
riding habits;
necessary to alter or change
respect.
these few observations, fuU}^ sensible of the responsibility assumed, in scatter-
ing far and wide, ideas the learned,
and novices
and teachings which will be in the Art of Cutting, I
closely analyzed
and
criticised
by
respectfully subscribe myself
The
Autiioh.
h
V
INTRODUCTORY TO
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS OF CUTTING.
WiiEr^ undertaking the duties devolving
upon an Editor not
my
of Fashions,
intention to
it
certainly
come before the
was
Tailor-
ing Trade in yet another position, that of an
and
originator
of
pixblisher
systems for Drafting.
I
a system or
not only expected,
Tlie
above reasons appeared
peculiar
many members
myself within journalistic limits, and not
light,
privileges
promulgating any
for
special sj'stem, preferring a
more general
basis for the ideas I might have occasion to ventilate,
To me
from time
it
me and
appeared that a journars useful-
regarding
tagonistic sentiments;
contact of an-
hence the desire on
my
part, while
its
proper boundaries, to liave
controlled as
keeping
to
my
Journal within it
so far un-
leave freedom for active
thought and liouest expression, regarding all
matters comino- within
its
range.
my mode
my
system,
it
would not
neces-
Journal into an organ of if I
concluded
Most assuredly to
I
to publish
could not,
other duties,
spare time to answer the numerous missives
ered witli set theories that might not admit tlie
of the Trade for
my
system.
I
extension or bear
for
view the subject in a different
without great detriment
to time.
and only the
urgent entreaties of
realize that
sarily turn
my
demand
tlie
self-advertisement,
ness was greatly restricted by being liamp-
of
to
my own
advancing
of Drafting,
and
Cutting,
of
caused
its
method
constantly increasing
but expressed a determination to confine
use
me from
deter
to
all sufficient
received,
requesting
my method of
considt;ration,
many
I
siiecial
instruction
Drafting, and
deemed that
upon
Justice to the
seekers of information and myself,
required the issuing of the present work on
Garment Cntting. taught
me
Long experience has
the value of a simple
system for Drafting Garments
and correct ;
necessity 1 felt for such a S3'^stem,
and and
the
my
LI NT III CUM' S 8 YS
eagerness to take long strides on the road
spurred
improvement,
to
and
labor, ing,
me
diligent
to
and most careful
after long
test-
can pronounce the success of the
I
result of
my
my own
sanguine expectations.
being beyond even
efforts as
was
If I
simply a Tailor by theory, a theoretical
my
system might answer
purpose and serve
as a publication, provided the publishing of
my
a sj^stem was
But
I
am
and most zealously have practiced tem,
and made otliers the
upon
What
it.
earn
it
and study,
I
is
By years of
bestow
experience
and
;
it
me
to
my
Hence, in preparing
it.
means
bring them
to successful comple-
arrive at the point I have reached,
as I desire these publications to
add
too,
instead of detracting from, the estimation
many is
liave
placed on
worth doing at
my
all, is
"What
ability.
worth doing well,"
and as merit only can obtain and sustain a position of wortli and b(H'n
my
effort
to
promiinMice,
tlie
that exj^eriment with them,
not
fall
to rec('iv<;
it
nuike the merits of
systems so perceptible to
due
they did, the sameness in
minds of
tliat
a])pri'ciation.
by
best be substantiated
That
able tests.
the inventor of a practical theory should be
biased in
its
favor
natural.
is
It is
spring of his brain, over wliich
of him.
When
make
lie
eager that
it
off-
has toiled
prove worthy
it
criticism of others, he watches ly,
the
entrusted to the colder
it is
it
anxious-
clearly demonstrates to the
discriminate investigator the benefits he so
underlying
clearly sees,
over each convert
it
and
its principles,
makes,
every weary hour past in
feels repaid for
its
invention.
Every work can b3 propelled into notice
by loud puffing that can
alone,
;
but
Tlie reason that so
a
t-ime
is
many systems
float for
is
that, as
a general thing, they
their origin to theory only.
Some person thinks he philosopher's stone, and its
genuine worth fixed attention.
on the market, and then sink to
obscurity,
owe
it
command
lias
made
found the
science reveal
treasured secrets.
He
at once hastily illustrates, to his his ideas,
my
fortli to the trade.
It is
In
and systems are worth most that can
satisfaction,
all
If
would be un-
Tailoring, as in every thing else, the opin-
ions
lias
they can-
life
endurable, and competition unknown.
has ever been,
have stinted neither time nor
I
to
may
have gained a not unenviable
systems,
and
sys-
to claim I
now, a source of pride with
justly merit
tion,
my
I have stated before,
reputation as a Cutter
and
its riglit
high encomiums
here bear repetition.
impossible for every one to think alike.
uncomplainingly, to
only aim.
essentially a practical Tailor,
from
TEMS
and a system
It
realize their anticipations, so
and chang.?
sent
apjiears desirable,
and purchasLM's are numerous; but
alter hnre,
is
own
tlierc,
tlit^y
it
don't
begin to
in the vain
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
supply their
hojw of making
it
requirements.
The cause of the
satisfactorily
the non-discovery of
defects,
them by the
and
designer,
fact of his la(;k of opportunity
lies in the
under as varied circumstances as a practicAll the faults that appeared to
;
but he could not imagine
would be subjected
trials
it
fore,
don't
comprehend
to,
all
and
It
stands to reason that a Tailor, successfully
ing, that
thoroughly testing and perfect-
only others situated like himself
can avail themselves of
;
and
it is
very
this
point I consider a good foundation for the confidence
I
have
How
before the trade.
seasons of
They
liave
trial,
systems
now
they that reverence too
my
far
old
my
readers to
judge.
In reference to
made
assertions
my systems, I have frankly and given my experience.
Those who have not confidence in them, are not compelled to experiment in either. thing
I
am
One
sure,
And
(I saj- it
I've c:in
made, be weighed;
without vaunting,)
victorious. They neither
will
bo found wanting.
bfen subjected to every possible
have met the wants of
With
accuracy,
I
mj'^
Upon my work
my views I
have
W.
O.
LINTHICUM.
business.
have accomplished
purpose, and embodied
it
I will leave
In the bahxnce
tried,
use.
much
new."
sentiments agree with the
above quotations,
contingency, but beyond everything I ever
believing
?
a turbulent thing."
Both the sj-stems
and came out
wis-
around that a froward retention is
They have past through
I
time, of
and
but contrariwise,
still,
place
in the
end
times, are but a scorn to the
doing business, producing a system, has facilities for
so
of ciistom
"And
if
counsel shall not alter them to the
"Time don't stand moveth
and
;
the worse,
wliat shall be the
l)etter,
there-
failures.
its
the
the great innovator
dom and
the inventor's eyes, he provided a theory to rectify
is
course, alter things to
system as thoroughly and
for testing his
ing Tailor.
time
my
for general
set a value,
will repay its cost to the pur-
]V[ek^ui'ii]g.
chaser ten fold.
open off
to conviction,
are never
says,
In order to cut
and always dread a turn
" that surely every medicine
an innovation, and he that will not apply
new remedies must expect new
a-
good Garment,
sentially necessary that a
from the beaten track.
Bacon is
Some persons
evils,
for
be obtained
;
and
my mode
so very simple, that to
commit an
error,
it
if
is
coi'rect
of
it
is es-
measure
measuring
is
hardly possible
ordinary care be
XT HI C UM
L1
observed. Take
the measures over a Coat
all
â&#x20AC;˘
,S
S
YS TEMS.
f)ii'edtioi]^ foi' >Iek^ui'ii)rf foi' tlie
except the
of the usual cloth thickness,
f)ms^ioi)kl ^y^teni. and
breast
Be
the Vest.
Coat
which must be taken over
waist,
is
an excellent plan to make unlined
Coats, or long sleeves,
from
close
elastic
Jackets with
fitting
goods of medium weight
and keep on hand three or four sizes to
diffei'ent
put on customers when they are to
trial
result in the
of the above will
measures taken being more uniformly ac-
and the cost
cnrate, for the
of the
Garments kept
purpose of taking them, paid
few weeks by
saving in
the
ing
all
many
They
in a
altei'ations.
Take as few measures as possible advise
;
and
I
and form the
thereby showing familiaiity with
ordei-,
leave an im-
tlie
38 inches, starting from
full length,
collar seam, or
where
it
Then from the same
be.
ta]ie
down
intended to
is
place, bring the
in front of the right
and up the back
arm, under
it
ing point,
drawing the tape moderately
tight,
and get what
as the
first
While
is
commonly known
shoulder measure, say 27 inches.
the inch tape
the arm,
to the start-
draw
it
in position
is
under
with the same degree of
to customi-rs, in
in tlie
having
some Cutters
I
will
aci'oss
the blade and under the arm to
the front of scye.
Before writing
in
once.
not be injurious
Cutting.
from the centre of the back, and draw
start it
but do not
this measuie,
down,) then reverse the tape and
it
of
have met, who are well
in the art of
moment with
write
the distance, continue the tape
to ])lace
same position moie than
a
f)f
thus avoiding omissions and
The alxnc suggestions \n
exist,
Always take the measures
customers.
annoyance
tliej'
Hesitancy and awk-
incompetency on the minds
])rcssion of
advanced
and
the back, say 23 inches, (tax the mind for
wardness, where
them
body; then proceed
in the centre of the
to take the length of waist, say 19 inches,
times before attempting to Draft.
the matter in hand.
same
well
tightness across the blade to the centre of
habit of taking measures with ease and cor-
the
is
it
to practice measiar-
new beginners
will thus acquire ability,
lectness,
is
measuring
be measured.
A
person to be measured, see that
up under the arms, and that the back seam
or the measures obtained will be too large. It is
buttoned on the
the Coat
liave
First,
particular and see that the
not excessively stuffed with wadding,
the
shoulder
to
the
up
down
in front
starting
original
point at the back of the neck, and see that it is
23 inches as
down
first
taken, and then write
the distance from the centre of the
back to the front of
the
sc^ye,
(say
Hi
inches, and the whole length 23 inches.) It is
well liere to impress the
mind
of
the
LINTHICUM'S SrSTE.US.
student with the importance of
measure.
this last
only one taken that
It is the
is
not his form justifies the variations on the
measure.
The length
applied directly to the Draft, as taken on the body.
and
It
taken,
is
very simple and easily
will correctl_y indicate the posi-
whether
tion of the customer,
erect,
medium
or stooping.
The the
special
medium
the shoulders to the elbow, 20J, inches,
and
arm being
ele-
to the waist, 32 inches, the
and
vated,
measures given above are for
Should
sized average form.
of the sleeve take in the usual
way, from the centre of the back, between
a
the elbow placed in as straight
the back.
If
it
the customer be erect, and his shoulders
measure taken
inclined back, the distance from the centre
far back,
of the
back to the front
of the scye,
would be
By
with
as possible
line
is
the
surface
too far forward,
will be too long,
and
if
of
the too
will be too short.
it
testing the above,
it
be found a
will
less than half of the whole blade measure,
very easy matter to commit an error of
say 11 inches, and the
from one to two inches
inches,
full
length
still
be 23
thus diminisliing the quantity of
cloth on the blade half an inch,
and adding
sleeve,
in
the length of
and probably account
for the numer-
ous alterations that have to be made in this
that quantity to the length of the shoulder;
particular.
and should the customer possess a stooj^ing
measures over the Vest, say 36 breast, and
form,
back
distance from the centre of the
tlie
to the front of the scye will be greater
than half of the inches,
blade
and decreasing the
inch,
length of the shoulder.
always take
above directed; in front of
the
and remember the
tape,
centre of is
say 12
increasing the quantity across the
blade half an
ness,
measure,
and
tlie
this
first,
To insure measure
correct-
twice,
medium
For a Vest,
the
distance
from the
to the front of the scye first
taken, scan the
difficulty in deciding
whether or
measure
would be 30
inches.
addition to the shoulder,
and waist measui-es already
from socket-bone, and take a opening
the
for
and
length,
except the length, which,
height, in
start
not half the quantity
no
cisely the same,
for a
taken,
to the centre of buck,
For
a Sack Coat, the measures would be pre-
from the neck down
customer closely from a side view, and there will be
read
breast
quantity; then reverse
so far taken will
19, 38, 27, 11^, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32.
blade,
thi_>
if
The measures
32 waist.
as
arm
back
Next, take the breast and waist
to the
in
front,
full
hollow of the waist at
the side, just above the hip-bone.
There
is
no
good reason why a Coat
should be cut by one system, and a Vest, for the
same customer, by another,
different
in
its
application
and
entirely results.
LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS.
10
When
the form of a customer varies from
Divisions
the general average (as described above in
letters A,
directions for taking measures), the system
to 36.
be ap-
here published for cutting Vests will as
preciated,
indicated
bv
measures.
ure 50.
sizes
P &
D, E,
C,
from 24 to
by
H, the
ranging from 18
the sizes ranging
I,
Division of the waist meas-
50.
letter G, the sizes
ranging from 22 to
Divisions of the scye measure by
ters J.
by
Divisions of the breast measure
produces the exact form
it
tlie
letters
B&
by
the shoulder measure
of
K &
let-
the sizes ranging from 11
L,
to 22.
When
Drafting, the above Divisions
be used in
foi' fiU]tfi.
tlie
must
following manner:
Division A, starting from O.
on t side length from top of the
First, take
hip-bone to the knee, say 24 inches
;
Division B, starting from O.
con-
Division C, starting from O.
tinue to witliin oue inch of the Moor, say 42
Next,
inches.
tlie
inside seam,
Division D, starting from O.
from the Division E, starting from O'.
crotch to within one inch of the floor, 32
Division F, starting fi-om (This measure should be taken with
inclies.
a square or wooden instrument, made
Division G, starting from O^.
f(n"
Division H, starting from 0*.
the purpose, with tape attached, and sold
by
Trimming houses).
all
]iip
taken
will
lead
42,
Division
J. starting
starting
32,
30,
36,
Division L, starting from O".
so
When
Drafting, the measure
is
always
19,
placed in a position
and
from 0".
Division K, starting from O*.
The whole measure
24,
I,
(taken over
the largest part) 36 inches, knee 19, and
bottom. 18 inches.
from O'.
Division
Next, the waist
measure, 30 inches, and the
0"^.
wliicli
presents the
18.
figures
of
the particular division,
used perpendicular to the eye. ample, when
Ylie The
\r\6l\
jVfek^m'e witli
linely
c()mi)anying
engraved Inch this
work,
i)ivisioi]v^.
Measure
contains
all
Systeui,
and are designated as foUows:
and
B
are
to
be used,
place the ta]ie along the line A, with
tape at
ac-
tht^
the
on divisions
Divisions used in Drafting by the Divisional
A
O on
A
the Diagram, and
and
B
being-
For ex-
O
on
mark
the figures corre-
sponding with the shoulder measure, and in
using Division D, place
O
on the tape
LTXTinCUM'S SYSTEMS.
at 1
on the diagram, and mark on Division
11
measure, 27 inches
;
blade measure (from
corresponding to the breast
the centre of back to the front of scye),
measure, the end of the tape being toward
11^ inches; continued to the hack of necTc,
the operator, will present the figures per-
23 inches
pendicular to the eye.
of
D
figure
tlie
;
length of sleeve from the centre
back to the elbow,
length, 32 inches
full
;
and
36 inches,
breast,
;
inches
20|
waist, 32 inches.
draw base
First
Šii'edtioix^ foi' f)i'kftii)^ 33^i'odk
2,
!)i'e^0 doktgi
by
mark
1
the
and
to 1
corresponding with
figures
the shoulder measure 27 on
tl^e l)ivi,^ioi)kl
and
Diagram No.
From O
line A.
oi'
shows the student how
to draft a Frock Coat by the measure he
B by
placing
O on
the Diagram.
And
corresponding
with
at
Divisions
3,
the
O
the figures
breast
36 on Division C, by placing at
O on
the tape at
mark
A
measure,
on the tape
on the Diagram.
Draw
B,
lines
witli line
From
C and
D
at right angles
A.
mark
1 to 4
the figures correspond-
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division
D
by placing O on the tape
at 1
on the
Diagram
From
2 to 5
mark
tlie
figures correspond-
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division
E by
placing
O^ on the tape at 2
on
the Diagram.
From
5 to 6
ing with
F by
tlie
mark
the figures correspond-
breast measure 36 on Division
placing
O^
on
the
tape
at
5
on
the Diagram.
From above reads inches
learned liow as ;
follows full
:
length,
to
take,
and which
Length of 38 inches
waist, ;
19
shoulder
.3
to 7
mark
the figures correspond-
ing with the waist measure 32 on Division Ct
by placing O^ on the tape
Diagram.
at 3
on the
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
12
Draw line
P
f)
to
8,
and
from
measure up
line
l]ii-ee-eighths of
at
E
5,
centre
tlie
Hi
to the front of scye
Hold the tape
of
adding
an inch as an allowance
G
line
From
8 to 9
H
tape at 8
the
line I
9
from 9 for the pitch of neck. 10
to
mark
the figures corre-
measure 36 on
sponding with the breast Division 9 on the
by placing O^ on
I
Make
Diagram.
and
part
is
of
and
scye
the bottom of
Draw sweep J from
K
Apply
as the pivot.
for
little
the waist measure
above 3 on the back (allowing
what has been taken out between the
back and side-body) which add
1
to
16 inches, to
11
inch for seams and cuts.
Form
the front and waist of the forepart, line separating tlie side-body frf)m
inclies for length
side
At
the forepart.
this ]ioint I earnestly ad-
no cloth be taken out to give form
to the waist, but allow the join the forepart precisely as
side-body to it
and add the necessary spring
or to fancy.
shown
Cut the back, and place
it
in position to
form the shoulder by placing
of the hittei'
line
G, and
F
on the
mark
the
neck gorge, the hollow part
always touching
line
E
at K.
Place the back again in the position from
which left
it
was
cut,
and put the thumb of the
liaud on line C,
where
tlie
side-body, using the front shoulder point at
seam of the back as shown in the Diagram,
shoulders and
seam,
side
and the
and form the shoulder and
line
form
in this position,
curving the latter in a half to three-fourths
vise that
Apply the measure 19
back directly on
api^lied
width of
9.
of waist,
(the
the tape at
the
the back at top half the distance between 8
the back
from a
on the Diagram.
From
11
K K
inches
J
5).
While the back
the figures correspond-
by placing O^ on
Draw
is
to the requirements of the customer.
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Division
between
the distance
till
of an inch at the natural waist, according
from 8 to O.
mark
the top of back
same as taken on the body and
and continue the
to 8 28 inches,
move
along the dotted line
between 2 and
inches.
for seams, padding, etc.
Draw
the side-body, and
forward
2 to 5 apply the blade measure as
on the body
taken
through
7
from 5 to O.
From
back
E from
line
tiie
back joins
It is
in the
was
drafted,
at the hip, as
Diagram.
quite a
common
occurrence to find
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; far
customers with very prominent hips
AVhen
greater than the average form. is
the case,
I
measure directly over the waist seam
buttoned, point to
of
and tlie
this
advise taking an additional
th(>
coat
ada])t
measure.
hij),
will
tlie
where the
touch when
coat
at
this
L IN TBI C UM S S
YS TEMS.
apply the
From
â&#x20AC;˘
be unnecessary
will
It
to
13
5
to
shoulder or breast measure to the draft,
sponding with
as the Divisions on the tape will produce
Division
them correctly
at 5
in all cases.
the
mark
5 to 14
sponding with the
ator should practice this draft until he
Division
and
perfectly familiar with the Divisions,
produce
can
L by
Draw a
line
in
which
and
Drafted to
is
sewed
be
to
is
it
Drafted in the position
is
ducing the correct
in
the
suit
length
of
the coat, pro-
scye,
in
the
under
size
consideration
which is
16
inches.
(This should be done before the
forepart
is
cut).
enough
large Draft,
Place a piece of paper
form the sleeve under the
to
and place the back
in
its
original
K
Draw
line
H
from 5 at right angles with
minate at
by
lines
5
to
at
.'5
12
mark
the
the figures
scye
J by placing
on the Diag-ram.
measure
O"
on the
corre-
16
on
tape
at right
mark
the figures corre-
measure
scye
O
placing
'
on
16
on the tape
at
14 must always
C
shown
as
at
ter-
12 on the
or
hard
and by a
of the sleeve
chalk
for
slight
pressure the
be
will
forming
indicated on
the paper placed under the draft.
Apply the length
(less
the
back) from 14 to elbow 2Q\ length 32 inches.
full
of
the
sleeve as of
the
operator
of
and
Complete the form
shown the
width
inches,
in
the Diagram.
uuder-sleeve
should not extend below lines If
sponding with Division
line
lead
L'se
line C.
From
15
Diagram.
The hollow
position.
to
13 on the Diagram.
the sleeve,
First measure the scye carefull}^,
on
16
touch line F, and the fore-arm seam
back and
forearm seam.
corre-
O" on the tape
13
The back-arm seam sleeve
measure
scye
from
13 to 15
Division at
The
figures
angles with line F.
From
gleeve by
the
placing
sponding with the Dii'edtior^^ foi' Ši^kftir^^
on
16
on the Diagi-am.
at 5
memory
from
correctly
it
without reference to the above directions.
measure
scye
by placing O" on the tape
any other part of the garment, the operis
the figures corre-
on the Diagram.
From
Before attempting to draft the sleeve or
K
mark
1.3
prefers
to
at
top
F and
C.
draft
sleeve separate from the body, he can so
by studying Diagram
will
No.
31,
the
do
which
give an equally good sleeve for the
well-proportioned form
;
but when a change
u
is
2
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
as
shown
is
best
indicated,
and
it
3,
Diagrams No.
in
sleeve be
the
that
drafted in the position in which
to
is
it
be sewed in the coat.
The deal
with
far
applications
their
a
well-proportioned
form of medium height and this
extent
many
of
most
of
them
and
mine
to
pupil
the
with a few vague
size,
the Divisional
tems published are equal in
is
Sys;
here
for
directions
to
but left
length-
ening or shortening the back, or changing the &c.,
location
of
the shoulder
conform
to
to
point,
&c.,
equally vague
and
uncertain measures taken from imaginary starting points in themselves unreliable
publication, it
to
and
In }neparing this System for
impracticable. it
or on account of extra erectness re-
quire all these changes reversed to a shorter
and narrower back, and longer and more
backward shoulder and
and
measures tluis
scye,
has been
such a degree that
my it
aim
will
scye.
The following measures taken as described indicate the three forms mentioned
—Form of
First 27,
Hi,
:
—19,
good proportions
38,
23, 20|, 32, 36, 32.
Second— Stooping form— 19,
38, 27, 12. 23,
20-i, 32. 36, 32.
Third— Erect form— 19,
38, 27, 11, 23, 20i,
32, 30, 32.
be observed that
It will
are precisely the
all
the measures
same except the
first
of the blade measure, that portion
half
which
is
width, and ajiplies from the centre of back to the front of scye.
to perfect
be quite as
easy to draft a good garment for an
ill-
©ii'edtioTisl f oi' ©I'liftiq^ S^i'odk-do^t
sha]ied customer as for one possessing the
proportions of a perfect model.
foi'
The Cutter's task would be an easy one
k ^toopii)^
S^oi'ii|
by
tl^e
if
Divis^ioi^iil ^3^,'^teii|. all his
customers conformed in shajje to the
measures taken and used
gram No.
1,
in
Drafting Dia-
but unfortunately the great
majority of them deviate from
very (;ommon
tiling to find a
it.
It is
a
man measuring
Measure— 19, First
38,
27, 12, 23, 20i 32, 36, 32.
—Draw base line A.
Place
on the tape at
and mark
at 1
and
O
on the Ditigram,
2 the figui'es correspond-
proportionately the same breast, waist, and
ing with the shoulder measiire 27 on Divis-
shoulder as described and illustrated by
ions
Diagram No.
1,
who
will stoop
require a longm- and wider shorter
and more forward
forward and back,
and a
shoulder
and
A
and B, and
at 3
maik
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 36
on Division C.
Draw
lines B, C,
riaht angles with line A.
and
D
at
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
From
mark
to 4
1
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division
D
by placing O on the tape
gram.
Prom
Dot on
the figures correspond-
2 to 5
mark
at 1
line C, half the distance
and X, which
tween 5 and
Division E, by placing Qi on the tape at 2
from
From
5 to 6
mark
the
between 5
a fourth of an inch.
A
of line
mark
in
and up a
fourth of an inch (or half the difference be-
responding with the breast measure 36 on
on the Diagram.
is
At the top
on the Dia-
the figures cor-
15
to
O
to
X whatever it may be) as shown
X, rounding the back seam gently
a point between
Draw
E from
line
tween 5 and
X
to 8,
X
between 5 and stead of
O
and
1
on
2
line A.
7 through the dot be-
and
X
to
F from
line
back
at top of
Diagram No.
as in
1,
the dot in-
and con-
tinue the blade measure from
X
inches, adding three-eighths of
an inch as
to 8,
23
an allowance for seams, wadding, &c.
It
will be noticed that half the variations be-
tween Division
E and
the
X
blade measure at 5 and
E
carries line
forward at
8,
first
half of the
is
used, which
and the other or
remaining half at the top of back, moving the baci:
seam forward and raising
fourth of
it
a
an inch, thus lengthening the
back, and in applying the measure from 2
X
figures corresponding with the breast meas-
to
ure 36 on Division F, by placing O^ on the
measure
tape at 5 on the Diagram.
mark
From
3 to 7
the figures corresponding witli
the
waist measure 32 on Division G, by placing
O^ on the tape apply the from 2
first
than
tile 5.
in
on the Diagram.
half of
X, which
to
more than
2 to
at 3
No.
1)
is
Now
and a half inch greater
distance given
by Division F from
is
more
consumed than
1,
which lessens the length
at
8,
in
of the blade
Diagram No.
of the shoulder
and moves the shoulder point and scye
forward, changes necessary for a stooping figure.
Draw
the blade measure
12 inches (a half inch
12 inches, a half inch
in
line
Diagram
G 1.
from 8 to
From
corresponding with
X (instead
8 to 9 tlie
of O) as
mark the
figures
shoulder measure
27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape at 8
on the Diagram.
Draw
line
J from 9
ZINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
16
for the pitcli of neck.
From
mark
9 to 10
the figures corresponding with the. breast
measure 36 on Division
J,
by placing O^ on
Make
the tape at 9 on the Diagram.
width of the back
between 8 and
Apply inches, of the
tlie
at top half the distance
above 3 on the back
to 11,
allowing for what
has been taken out between
and back, 16 for seams
inches,
and
cuts.
Form
the front and
waist of the forepart and the line separating the sidebody from the forepart.
9.
At
the measure for length of waist 19
point, I advise that no cloth be taken out to
give form to the waist, but allow the side-
back as shown
in tlie
Diagram, or to
bod}'^ to join
the forepart precisely as
Di'afted,
much
the hip as shown in the Diagram.
to
this
and form the shoulder and side seam
fancy, increasing the width of back at 4 as as the
back has been moved forward
Cut the back and place
at O.
sidebody
tlie
which add one inch
to
it
in position
form the shoulder, by placing
F
line
mark
the back directly on line G, and
on
it
was
and add the necessaiy spring
at
the hips of the customer sliould be
If
and ap-
larger than the average form, take
the
ply a measure over the upper part of the
shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of
hip to insure the coat being large enough at
the latter always touching line
E
at K,
the waist-seam.
Place the back again in the position from
which left
it
was cut, and put the thumb
hand on
line
sidebody, and
ward
till
C where
shoulder measure to the Draft, as the Divisions on the tape will produce them correctly
back
of
the distance between is
KK
12 inches, the
for-
X
on
same as
line C.
While the back
in all cases.
along
taken on the body and applied between 2
and
unnecessary to apply the breast or
the back joins the
move the top
the dotted line
It is
of the
!)ii'edtioii^ foi' f)i^kftii]^
foi' is
in this position,
^toopii)^
S^oi'ii]
Sleeve
b^^ tl]e
form
the back part of the scye, and side seam
curving the latter in a half to three-fourths
This sleeve,
of an inch at the natural waist, according
Drafted
to the requirements of the customer.
sewed
Draw sweep J from
the bottom of the
sidebody, using the front shoulder point at
K iis
the pivot.
Ap])ly the waist measure from a
Diagram No.
in the position in
in the coat,
and
is
which
it
1,
is
Dratted to
is
to be
fit
scye, producing the correct length of
the
back
and forearm seams. First
little
like in
measure the scye carefuly, say 16
inches, (before the forepart
is
cut).
LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Place a piece of paper large enough to
form the sleeve the back in
Draw
X at
H from
extend below lines
F and
tojj
should not
C.
the dot between 5 and
©ii'edtiori^^ f oi' ©I'^ftii]^ E^i'odk-dokt
right angles with line C.
From
hollow of the under sleeve at
original position.
its
line
the Draft, aucl place
iiucler
17
the top of line
H
to 12,
mark
the
foi' ki] Sji'edt S^oi'n]
by
tl)e
figures corresponding with the scye meas-
ure 16 on Division
J,
by placing O" on
the
H on the Diagram. H to 13, mark the
tape at the top of line
From
the top of line
figures corresijonding with the scye
measure
by placing O" on
the tape
16 on Division K,
H on the Diagram. From H to 14, mark the figures
at the top of line
the top of line
DiAG.
Measure— 19, First
Place
38, 27, 11, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32.
draw base
O
and mark
3.
line A.
on the tape at at 1
and
O
on the Diagram,
2 the figures correspond-
corresponding with the scye measure 16 on Division L, by placing 0° on the tape at the
top of line
Draw
H
a line
on the Diagram. from 13 to 15 at right angles
with line F.
From
13 to 15,
mark
the figures corres-
ponding with the scye measure 16 on Division K,
by placing O^ on the tape
The back arm seam
the Diagram.
must always touch seam terminate
at 13
line F,
at line C, as
on
at 14
and the forearm
shown
at 12 in
the Diagram.
Apply (less the
and
the measure for length from
14
width of back) to elbow 20^ inches,
full length,
32 inches.
form of the sleeve as shown
Complete the in the
Diagram,
using lead or hard chalk, and by a slight
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi-
A
mark
and B, and
at 3
responding with
the
ons
the figures cor-
breast measure 'On Division
pressure, the lines of the sleeve will be in-
dented on the paper under the Draft.
The
Draw line
lines B, C,
A.
and
D
36.
C.l
at right angles with
LINT HI CUM' 8
18
From
1 to
mark
4 on line B,
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 36
on Division D, by placing 1
O
on the tape at
And line
continue the blade measure from
C
to 8,
2 to 5 on line C,
mark
the figures
tween Division
E and
the
moves
2 on the Diagram.
other half at the top of line
on
5 to 6
line C,
mark
the figures
by
Division F,
jjlacing
O^ on the tape at 5
on the Diagram.
From
mark
the figures
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on
by placing 0* on the tape
Division G,
at 3
Now
apply
first
tlie
measure from 2
to
half of the blade
X, which
is
half inch less than in No. 1) less
from 2
5
C
line
and X, wliich
At the top
is
half the distance between
5
A mark
out and
to
the back geani gently to a point between
1
Draw
linn
E from
X
between 5 and
11 inches, is
to 8,
X
on
of back, instead of
7 through the dot be-
and line
O
line
C
F from to
X
the dot
at the top
as in Diagram No.
1.
it
a fourth
a half inch less of the
consumed than
for
in
Diagram
which increases the length of the
1,
shoulder at
and moves the shoulder point
8,
an erect
Changes necessary
figure.
G
Draw
line
From
8 to 9
from 8
mark
to
X
(instead of O).
the figures correspond-
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi11,
by placing O* on
the tape at 8 on the
Diagram.
From
line I
9 to 10
from 9 for the pitch
mark
of neck.
the figures correspond-
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division I,
by placing 0^ on the tape
at 9
on the
Diagram.
Make
the width of the back at top, half
the distance between 8 and
2 on line A.
tween 5 and
X
Draw down
X whatever it may be) as X in the Diagram, curving
and
shown from O
and
No
a fourth of an inch.
of line
one-fourth of an inch (or half the difference
between
and
blade measure
on
to 5.
Dot on
moving the
back, and in applying the measure between
and a half inch
F
A
of an inch, thus reducing the length of the
11 inches, (a
than the distance given by Division
and the
at 8 further back,
and scye further back.
on the Diagram.
used, which
is
seam further back and shortening
2
3 to 7 on line D,
E
half of the
first
X
on Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at
line
It
the variation be-
blade measure at 5 and
From
on
adding three-eighths of an inch
corresponding with the breast measure 36
corresponding with the breast measure 36 on
X
as an allowance for seams, padding, &c. will be noticed that half
on the Diagram.
From
TS TEMS.
S
Apply inches,
9.
the measui-e for length of waist 19
and form the shoulder and
seams of the back as shown
in the
side
Diagram,
or to fancy, reducing the width of the back
ZINTIIIGUM'S SYSTEMS.
much
at 4 as
back
as the
seam has been moved
forepart
as
precisely
was
it
Drafted, and add the necessary spring at
at O.
Cut the back and place
it
in position to
form the shoulder, by placing
P on
line
mark
the back directly on line G, and
the
shoulder and the neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter
always touching
Place the back
from which of the left
the
join
19
it
again in
E
the
position
at K.
hand ou
C where the back
line
and move the top
the distance between
till
K, along the dotted
line, is 11 inches,
shown
If the hips of
larger than
the
Diagram.
in the
the customer
should be
average form, take and
apply a measure over the upper part of the hips to insure the
was cut and put the thumb
joins the sidebody,
back forward
line
the hip as
enough It is
coat being
large
at the waist seam.
unnecessary
to
apply the
breast
or shoulder measure to the Draft, as the
them
the tape will produce
of
divisions on
K
correctly in all cases.
the
same as taken on the body and applied between 2 and
X
While the back
on line C. is
gl eeve
f)ii'edtioq>s^ foi' Dfiiftiii^
form
in this position,
the back part of the scye and side seam
foi' ki| Sji'edt 5j^oi'n]
by
tl)e
;
curve the latter in a half to three-fourths
f)ivi^ioi\M gy^ten]. of
an inch at the natural waist, according Tliis sleeve,
to the requirements of the customei".
Draw sweep J from
the bottom of
side-body, using the front shoulder at
K
been
incli
out
taken
body and back,
Porm
from a
the waist measure
above 3 on the ])ack to
one
point
as the pivot.
Apply
has
the
for
11,
between
the
side-
At
this point, I advise
that no cloth be taken out to give form to the waist,
but
allow
the
sidebody to
is
is
1,
it
is
to
Drafted to
fit
the scye, producing the correct length
of
back and forearm seams. Fii'st
inches,
measure the
scj^e carefully,
before the forepart
Place a
of
piece
say 16
is cut.
paper large
enough
form the sleeve under the Draft, and
to
cuts.
part and the line separating the sidebody
from the forepart.
be sewed in the coat, and
which add
the front and waist of the fore-
Diagram No.
Drafted in the position in which
allowing what
16 inches, to
seams and
little
like in
place the back in
Draw and
X
From
liu(i
at
H
its
original position.
from the dot between 5
right angles with line
the top of line
H
to 12,
C.
mark
figures corresponding with the scye
the
measure
20
LINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS.
16 on Division J,
by placing O^ on
tape at the top of line
From
tlie
©ii'edtiori^ foi' ©I'^ftii]^
H
on the Diagram.
H
to 13,
the top of line
mark
^kdk by
the
fignres corresponding with the scye meas-
ure 16 on Division K, by placing 0" on the tape at the top of line
From
H
the top of line
on the Diagram.
H
to 14,
mark
tape at the top of line
Draw
a
H
from 13
line
As Shown in Diag. No. Measure— 30, 27, lli, 23, 20^,
the
ure 16 on Division L, by i)]acing 0« on the
die ©ivi^ior^^d]
Hy^ten].
First
figures corresponding with the scye meas-
k Sody-
draw base
From O
to 1
line
A
4.
32, 36, 32.
A.
and 2 mark the
figures cor-
responding with the shoulder measure 27
on the Diagram. 15
to
right
at
angles with line F.
From
13 to
sponding with Division K, at 13
scam
the
the figures corre-
scye
measure
by placing O^
on the at
mark
15,
14
Diagram.
must
on
The
the tape
back arm
always touch
and the forearm seam terminate as
C,
shown
at 12
2()i
(less
inches,
line
at
F, line
on the Diagram.
Apply the measure from 14
16 on
for length of sleeve
the width of back) to elbow,
and
full length,
32 inches.
Comi)lete the fonn of the sleeve as shown in the
Diagram, using lead or hard chalk,
and hj a
slight pressure, the lines of
sleeve will be indented on
der the Draft.
the
the paper un-
The hollow of the under
sleeve at
the
low lines
F and
to])
sliould C.
not
extend be-
on Division tape at
O
A
and B, by placing
O
on the
on the Diagram, and at 8 mark
the figures corresponding with
measure 36 on Division on the tape
at
O
C,
the
breast
by placing O
on the Diagram.
Draw
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
lines B, C,
D
and
at right angles with line
A A. From
line B,
on Division D, by placing
mark
the figures
O
on the tape at
2 to 5 on line C,
mark
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 36
on Division E, by placing 0^ on the tape at 2
on the Diagram.
From
on
5 to 6
on
line C,
mark
the figures
by placing O* on the tape
at
on
3 to 7
line
D, mark the figures
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on Division
by placing O' on
Gr,
the tape at 3
line
F from
From
E from
line
line
7 through 5 to
8,
and
Make
I,
2 to 5 on line C, apply the blade
mark
the figures
by placing O^ on
Apply
9.
the measure for length of coat 30
and form the back as shown by the the Diagram,
solid lines in
one inch outside of line 11.
of the left
back joins the forward
till
adding about
AA
Cut the back and place
thumb
the tape at
the width of back at top half the
distance between 8 and
it
was
cut,
hand on
line
it
forepart,
at
again in the
and put the
C where
the
and move the top
the distance between is
shown
as
K K along
11 1 inches, the
same as
taken on the body and applied between 2
and 5
5 to O.
I,
Diagram.
the dotted line
on the Diagram.
Draw
on
position from which
5 on the Diagram.
From
9 to 10
on Division
inches,
corresponding with the breast measure 36 Division F,
From
corresponding with the breast measure 36
9 on the
on the Diagram.
From
from 9 for the pitch of the
line I
neck.
on
1 to 4
corresponding with the breast measure 36
1
Draw
21
ot. line
position,
C.
While
the back
is in this
form the back part of the scye
measure as taken on the body from the
and the
centre of back to
the natural waist about one inch, or to fancy
the front of
scye 11|
side seam, curving the latter in at
or fasliion.
inches.
Hold the tape ure up line
E
at 5
and continue the meas-
to 8, 23 inches,
adding three-
Place the back and forepart together at 16,
and apply the waist measure 16 inches adding 3 inches
eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams,
from 17
padding, &c.
waist measure, say 19 inches in
Draw From
line
G
from 8
to half the all.
Place the back in position to form the
to O.
8 to 9 on line E,
to 18,
mark
the figures
shoulder by placing line
F on
the back di-
and mark the shoulder and
corresponding with the shoulder measure
rectly on line G,
27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape
neck gorge, the hollow part of the
at 8 on the
Diagram.
always touching line
E
at K.
latter
LINTHIGUM-S
22
Draw
front breast line from 6 tlirongh 18,
and form the lapel and front fashion.
to taste or
To obtain the length
front,
of
sweep from the bottom of the side seam, using the front shoulder point at
K as
the
pivot, and let the front breast line intersect
Diagrams and directions for Drafting body sacks for stooping or erect forms will not be
must be plain
it
by
of the operator that
precisely
Diagrams
same
the
to the
mind
following the direc-
tions already given for tliat
2
results
and
3,
be
will
Place the back again in the position from it
by placing 0' on the
tape at 5 on the Dia-
gram.
From
5 to 14,
mark
the figures correspond-
ing witli the scye measure 16 on Division L,
by placing O" on the tape
at 5
on the Dia-
gram. a line from 13 to 15 at riglit angles
with line F.
From
mark
13 to 15,
the figures corres-
ponding with the scye measure 16 on Division K,
by placing O" on
the tape at 13 on
the Diagram.
The back-arm seam
14 miist
at
always
touch line F, and the front seam terminate
reached as in a frock-coat.
which
YS TEMS.
Draw
the sweep at 19.
necessary, as
S
was cut and place a piece of paper
on
line
C
as
shown
at 12 on the Diagram.
Apply the measure
for length of sleeve
the width of
under the Draft large enough to form the
from 14
sleeve, and observe the following:
elbow, 20| inches, and full length 32 inches.
(less
back) to the
Complete the form of the sleeve as shown in the
Šii'e^itioii,^ foi' ŠI'iiftiiig
Botly-^adk by
tl)e
Sleeve
foi'
f)m^ioi\kl
Diagram, using lead or hard chalk,
and by a
sliglit
pressure the lines of the
sleeve will be indented on the paper under
the Draft.
The hollow part First,
measure
tlie
scye carefully, say 16
Draw
line
H
from
Fi-om C to
r^
F and
12,
at right angles with
mark
the figures cor-
responding with the scye measure 16 on Division
J,
by placing O" on
tlie
f)ii'edtioi]b' foi'
5 to 13,
mark
i)i^aftii|gOvei'-^hdi
inclies
tape at
by
tl^e i)ivi{^ioi|cil
DiAG.
5 on the Diagram.
From
under sleeve at the
C.
inches.
line C.
of the
top should not extend between lines
the figures correspond-
ing with the scye measure 16 on Division K,
It is
a very
^y^ten^
5.
common practice among Tailors
to take the breast
and waist measure over a
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
coat
when measuring
surtout,
for
an over-sack or
whether the coat measured over
thick or thin.
It is
is
a bad habit, as the meas-
ures so obtained are very uncertain.
It is far
23
quired loose or to be worn over thick undergarments, add 3 inches to the breast and waist
and
measure,
and blade
shoulder
to the
measures the same proportions.
Draw
base Hue
Fi'om
O
A
A.
and 2 mark the
to 1
figures cor-
responding with the shoulder measure 28^ on Divisions
O
at
A and B,
on the
by placing O on the tape at
measure 38 on Divisions the tape at
C and
From
1
D
O
C,
to 4
by placing
on
Draw
lines
on the Diagram.
at right angles
on
line
mai'k
3
the breast
figures corresponding vpith
the
B,
and
Diagram,
^^'ith
line A.
B mark the figures cor-
responding with the breast measure 38 on Division D, by placing
O
on the tape at
1
on the Diagram.
From
2 to 5
on
line
C mark the
figures cor-
responding with the breast measure 38 on Division E,
by placing O^on the tape
at 2
on
the Diagram.
From
5 to 6
on
line
C mark
the figures cor-
responding with the breast measure 38 on Division F, tlie
Diagram.
From better to talce a neat
measure over
and make the necessary
39,
281,
12,
24i
(19, 38, 27, 11^,
should be increased thus
21, 33,
38,
34,
for
an over-
sack intended to be woni over garments of
medium
thickness.
When
3 to 7 on line
the coat
is
re-
D mark the figures cor-
responding with the waist measure 34 on Division G,
additions.
The measure ah-eady taken 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32)
vest
tlie
at o on
by placing 0Âťon the tape
by placing O^ on the tape
at 3
on the Diagram.
Draw line
F
line
from
From
E from
7 through 5 to
and
8,
5 to 0.
2 to 5 on line C, apply blade measure
as taken on the
body from the centre
of
back
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
24
Hold the
to the front of seye, 12 inches.
and continue the measure up
tape at 5 to
8,
line
E
24J inches, adding three-fourths of an
inch instead of three-eighths (as directed for body-coats) as an aUowanoe for seams, pad-
G
Draw
line
From
8 to 9 on line
from 8
E
marlv the figures cor-
responding witli shoulder measure 28| on Division H,
by placing 0* on the tape
at 8
on
the Diagram.
From
9 to 10
from
9 for the pitch of neck.
mark
the figures corresponding
with the breast measure 38 on Division
I,
by
placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram.
mdth
the
of
back at the
the distance between 8 and
Apply the measure inches,
left
was
hand on
A A as shown at
till
and neck gorge, the hollow part always toiiching line
E
Cast a short sweep
of the latter
at K.
downward from
11.
Cut the
front breast line from the sweep (one
a-half inches below 6) through 18,
foi-m the lapel
and front
To obtain the length
of the coat in front,
draw a sweep from the bottom
of the side
sect the
sweep at
For stooping or
erect forms observe the di-
rections ab'eady given for
Diagrams 2 and
same manner for b<jdv and over-sacks.
is
apjaly the blade
measure
3,
in precisely the
fore-
the top of back
the distance between
the dotted line,
as
19.
and
move
K
the pivot, and let the front breast line inter-
and put the thumb of the
C where the back and
and
to taste or fashion.
again in the position from
line
6 at
using 2 on the back as the pivot.
Draw and
the back
it
part joins together, and
forward
F on
line
and mark the shoulder
cut,
back and place it
by placing
seam, using the front shoiilder point at
9.
for length of ccjat 39
on the Diagram, adding two inches
outside of line
which
top, half
and form the back as showTi by the
solid lines
all.
Place the back in position to fonn the
line C,
line I
Make
201 to 21 inches in
directly on line G,
to 0.
to 18,
adding three and a half to four inches, say
shoulder,
ding, &c.
Draw
Place the back and forepart together at 16
and apply the waist measure from 17
12 inches, the
K
K, along
same as taken
Dii'edtioii^ foi' 'Di'aftii)^
Ovei'-^kdk
by
tl^e
Sleeve of
f)ivi^ioi]M
on the body and applied between 2 and 5 on line C.
foiTU the
While the back
is
in this position
See Diag.
back part of the scye and the side
seam, curving the latter in at the natural waist
Place a
jiiece
enough
of paper
form the
4.
under the Draft
and measure
about one inch, and adding one inch to one
large
inch and a half for spring as slutwn at
the scve carefully, say 17^ inches.
12.
to
slee\e,
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Draw
H
from 5 at right angles
mark
the figures correspond-
base line
25
f)ii'edtior\^ foi' f)i'kftiT|^
k gm'tout
with line C.
From
5 to 12
ing ^nth the scye measure 17| on Division
by placing O" on the tape
at 5
Ovei'-dokt
hj
tl)e f)ivi^ioi\kl
J,
on the DiaDiAG.
6.
gram.
The measure,
From
5 to 13
mark
as taken for a frock-coat
—
19,
the figures correspond38, 27, 111, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32.
The same
en-
ing with the scye measure 17^ on Division K, larged for a surtout— 19^ 40, 28|,
by placing O" on the tape
at 5
on the Dia33, 38, 34.
When
the coat
is
12, 24J, 21,
desired loose,
gram. or
From
5 to 14
mark
is
intended to be worn over a very thick
the figures correspond-
ing with the scye measure 17^ on Division L,
by placing O® on the tape
on the Dia-
at 5
gram.
Draw
a line from 13 to 15 at right angles
with line F.
From
mark
13 to 15
the figures cori^esjiond-
ing with the scye measure 17| on Division K,
by placing 0« on the tape
at 13
on the Dia-
gram.
The l)ack-arm seam
14
at
must always
touch line F, and the front seam temiinate on line C, as
ly the (less
shown
at 12
on the Diagram.
the width of back) to the elliow, 21
inches,
and the
full lengtli, 33 inches.
Complete the form of in the
tlie
sleeve as
Diagram, using lead
and by a
oi'
the Draft.
The hollow
sleeve, at the top,
F and
shown
haixl chalk,
slight pressure the lines of
sleeve will be indented on the
lines
Ap-
measure for length of sleeve from 14
C.
\ydit
])a])ei-
tlie
under
of tlie under-
should not extend behnv
coat,
add three inches
to the breast
and waist
measure, and the same proportions to the
shoulder and blade measures. First
Fi'om
draw base
O
to
1
line
A.
and 2 mark the
figures cor-
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
26
responding witli the slionlder measure on 28^
A and B,
Divisions
O
at
by placing O on the tape
on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the
figures corresponding with breast
on Division C, by placing
O
measure 38
on the tape at
O
B, C, and
lines
D
at right angles
1
on
to 4,
line B,
mark
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on Division D, by placing
on the tape
at 1
on
8 to 9
mark
the figures corresj^ond-
ing with the shoulder measure 28| on Division
H, by placing
O'*
Draw
the Diagram.
on the tape
2 to
From
9 to
1
U
mark
by placing O^ on the tape
5,
on
line C,
mark
the figures
Make
Apply the measure
on line
C,
mark
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on Division F, by placing 0^ on the
tax)e at 5
on the Diagram. 3 to
7,
on
line
D, mark the figures
corresiionding with the waist measure 34 on
Division G,
by placing
0-*
on the tape at 3
Draw
line
E
from 7 through 5
to 8,
and
line
From
2 to 5,
on line
C,
apply the blade
measure as taken on the body from the centre of
back
to the front of scye, 12 inches.
Hold the tape
E
at 5
and continue the meas-
it
in
position to
placing line
and mark
always resting on line
E
side
Diagram.
in the
der and neck gorge, the hollow
F on
the
the shoul-
jiart of
the
at K.
Place the back again in the position from
was
cut,
hand on
line
which left
it
ward
till
and put the thuml^
C where the back
of the
joins the
and mo^e the top of the back the distance between
the dotted
5 to 0.
l)y
back, directly on line G,
side body,
on the Diagram.
F from
fomi the shoulder,
latter
of waist,
and form the shoulder and
Cut the back and place 6,
9.
for length
seam of the back as shown
5 to
on the Dia-
at 9
the width of the back at top, half
191 inches,
the Diagram.
I,
gram.
Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on
From
on
the figures correspond-
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on
From
at 8
from 9 for the
line I
the distance between 8 and
the Diagram.
From
From
fi'om 8 to O.
ing with the breast measure 38 on Division
with line A.
From
line
pitch of neck.
on the Diagiam.
Draw
G
Draw
line,
is
12 inches,
K
for-
K, along
the same as
taken on the body and applied between 2 and 5 on line C.
While the back the back part of
is
in this jiosition,
form
the scye and the side seam,
adding three-
curving the latter in a half or three-fourths
eighths of an inch as an allowance for pad-
of an inch at the natural waist, according to
ding, seams, &c.
the form of the customer.
ure
up
line
to 8, 24\ inches,
LINTUICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Draw sweep J from
the bottom of the side
body, using the front shoulder point at
K
©ii'edtioTi^ foi' ©I'kftii]^
Co^t by
Apply the waist measure from a above 3 on the back to
11,
Form and the
and
allowing for what
which add one inch
cuts, 18 inches in all.
At
the forepart.
As Shown in Diagram There
is
no reason
why
body from
this point, I advise that
no
7.
a coat should be
Drafted by one system and a waistcoat by another entirely different.
the front and waist of the forepart line separating the side
tl)e f)ivi^ioi\k-l
little
has been taken out between the back and side body, 17 inches, to
k W^i^t-
as
the pivot.
for seams
27
my
So
I
have adapted
Divisions for Drafting waistcoats in pre-
cisely the
form
to
same manner, producing the same
fit
the customer as required in the
coat.
cloth be taken out to give form to the waist,
but allow the side body to join the forepart precisely as
necessary
it
was Drafted, and add the
si;)ring at
the hips as
shown
in the
Diagram. If
the hijis
of
the customer should be
larger than the average form, take
and
aj^ply
a measure over the upper part of the hip to insure the coat being large
enough
at
the
waist seam. It
is
unnecessary to apply the breast or
shoulder measure to the Draft as the Divisions on the tape will produce
them
correctly
in all cases.
Draw
base Une A, and proceed to Draft a
waistcoat
¥o ]\feasure
©I'kft Sleeve.
the scye
the
directions
No.
1.
carefully
by the following measure
the coUar seam at the back of
and follow
already given for Diagram
length, 26 inches
;
:
From
neck,
for
from the same starting
place to the hollow point of the waist, (just
above the hip 20i inches, and the )
full
length
LINTHICUM'S
28
at the hip, 23 inches, the shoulder,
blade,
breast and waist measure being the same as
taken for the coat and applied in Diagram
No.
1.
and 2 mark the figures
YS TEMS.
S
inches on line C, and continue the measure
up
line
E
to 8, 23 inches.
G
Draw
line
From
8 to 9
from 8
mark
to O.
the figures corresi^ond-
cor-
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Division
responding with the shoulder measure 27 on
H, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the
From
to 1
Divisions
A
and B, by placing
O
on the tape
mark
Diagram.
the
Draw
line I
figures corresponding witli the breast meas-
From
9 to 10
at
on the Diagram, and at
O
Draw
ure 36 on Division C.
D
3
lines B,
C and
at right angles with line A.
From
may
use his judgment in marking for the \vidth of the back.
have a decided preference for
I
a narrow back and shoulder in a waistcoat,
and think the
From
where
point,
lines
be found ample in
tersect, will
2 to
on
5,
B and F
in-
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 3G on
ing with the breast measure 36 on Di\ision
Mark
the width of
Form a (on line
mark the figures corresponding
with the breast measure 36 on Division F, at 5
on the Dia-
mark
the figures
gram.
Diagram
in the
3 to 7,
on
line
D,
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on Division G,
))y i)lacing
O* on the tape
at 3
on the diagram.
Draw line
F
line
from
A])ply
fi
tlie
E from
at top, half
9.
Make
all,
11,
and
8,
to O.
blade nieasiiiv from 2 to
in at
2,
1
and
10
inches,
11
adding two
the width of the back, on line C,
about one-fourth of the breast-measure.
Apply the measure and from 8
waist, at 14,
for length, (tVom 8) 26 to the
20| inches,
hollow part of
and
full
length at
the hip, 23 inches.
Cut the
l>ack
back directly on h(jle,
f)
13 along the
at 12.
and
i)lace it in position to
form the shoulder, by placing 7 tlirough 5 to
back from
at 13.
Apply the waist-measure from
inches,
From
back
A) a fourth of an inch
inches, 18 in
by placing O^ on the tape
tlie
line for the centre of
dotted line to
(5
on the Dia-
the distance between 8 and
on the Diagram. 5 to
I,
at 9
gi-am.
Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 2
From
the figiires correspond-
one inch in at the natural waist, as delineated
all cases.
mark
line C,
9 for pitcli of neck.
mark
by placing O^ on the tape
line B, the student
on
1 to 4,
from
]jart
line G,
line
F on
the
and mark the arm-
shoulder and neck-gorge, the hollow of the latter always resting on line E.
L 1 XTIIIC
Add
sufficient for spring over the hip,
UM
'
S
YS TEMS.
S
Draw
and
complete the form of the front and bottom.
line
lines B,
From
by
to 4,
1
on
mark
line B,
the width of
B.
From I^oi'ii]
D at right angles A\ith
to taste, or at the intersection of lines
F and ^too|)ii|^
C and
A.
back
foi' h.
29
2 to
5,
mark
the figures corresijond-
tl]e
ing with the breast-measure 36 on Division
by placing O' on the tape
E,
on the Dia-
at 2
gram.
As Shown
in
Diagram
8.
From
Measure.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;26,
201, 23, 36, 82.
5 to
6,
mark
the figures correspond-
Slionlder
ing with the breast- measure 36 on Division
measure, 27; bhide,
32, 23.
F,
Draw
by placing O^ on
the tape at 5 on the Dia-
base line A.
gram.
From
3 to
7,
mark
the figures correspond-
ing with the waist-measure 32 on Division
by placing O^ on the tape
CI,
on the Dia-
at 3
gram.
Now the
apply the blade measure
body from the centre
of
^2 inches from 2
of scye)
more than
Diagram
in
taken on
(as
back
to the fi'ont
X, a half inch
to
and a half inch
7,
more than the distance given by Division from 2
to 5.
Dot on
line
C
between 5 and X, which inch,
up a
and
Draw From
to
responding Divisions at
O
A
1
and
witli
2,
the
mark
the figures cor-
shoulder-measure on
and B, by placing
O
on the Diagram, and at
3
mark
the
A
sliown Iyoiw
O
line
line
E from
F
fi'om the
inark in
7 through the
Dot
X
to
diifl
to X.
Dot
to 8,
at tlie toj) of
back instead of O.
on the tape
figures corresponding with the breast-measure
36 on Division C.
and
a fouith of an
is
at the top of line
fourtli, as
Yj
half the distance
Ccmtinue the blade-measure from
E
X
up
line
from 8
to
X
the back from X, touching line
A
at
to 8, 23 inches.
Draw
line
G
instead of O.
Form
ZINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS.
30
1,
in a fourth of
an inch at
in at the natural waist, as
2,
and one inch
shown
at
1
3 on the
Diagram.
Apply
Divisions at
the measure for size of waist from
and
13 to 11
as directed for
12,
Diagram
7.
Also apply the measures for length, and complete the remainder of the Draft in the
manner
responding with the shoulder-measure 27 on
as directed for No.
O
by placing O on the tape
mark
3
at
the
figures corresponding with the breast-meas-
Draw
ure 36 on Division C.
D
same
lines B,
C and
at right angles with line A.
From back
7.
A and B,
on the Diagram, and
1 to 4,
on line B, mark the width of
to taste, or at tlie intersection of lines
F and
B.
From 2
to
5,
on
mark
line C,
the figures
coiTesponding with the breast-measure 36 on
foi' ^1) Sii'edt I^oi'ii]
by
Division E, bj' placing O^ on the tape at 2 on tl^e
the Diagi'am.
From As Shown in Diagram
Measure.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;26, 20^
36,
32.
6,
mark
the figures coiTespond-
9.
F, 23,
5 to
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division
by placing 0= on the tape
at 5
on the Dia-
SlKjulder
gram. measure, 27
;
blade, 11, 23.
From
3 to
7,
mark
the figures correspond-
ing Avith the waist-measure 32 on Division
CI,
by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram.
Now
api^ly the blade
measure
(as
taken on
the body from the centre of back to the front of scye) 11 inches less tlian in
from 2
Diagram
to
and
7,
X, a
than the distance given by Division to
5.
Dot on
line
C
tween 5 and X, which
and
at the top of line
lialf
inch
a half inch less
E from
2
half the distance beis
a fourth of an inch,
A mark
a fourtli of an inch, as
out and
shown from O
down to
X
on the Diagram.
Diaw
l)ase line
From O
to
1
Draw
A.
and
2,
mark
the figures cor-
and
line
line
F
E from
7 tlirough
from the Dot
tlie
Dot
to 8,
to X, instead of
O
LIKTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Continue
at the top of back.
blade meas-
tlie
ure from
X
up
draw
G
fi-om 8 to X, at top of back, in-
line
line
E
to 8, 23 inches,
and
stead of O.
Form at
1,
fourth of an inch at
a
one inch
labor in
Diagram
11
and
A
and
my
readers will have
on, to
put the same to
of
shown
the waist
fjeefir^^
Jkdket by
tl)e
Also apply the measures
7.
f)ivi^ioi\kl ^y^terq.
and complete the remainder of
for length,
off
profit.
as directed
12,
many
sured that
my
the above line, feeling as-
Šii'edtioii^ foi' Di'kftii]^ I<^y'^'
Apply
at 13.
measure from 13 to for
own
and
2,
at the natural waist, as
in.
Diagram
in the
have determined to give the result of
occasion,
the back from X, touching line
in
31
the Draft as directed for No.
As Shown in Diagram
7.
Measure
10.
13|, 23^, 26, 11, 22^, 36, 26, 58.
The above measures are taken
in
the
G[ki'n]ei\t,^ foi' I^Jitlie^.
To some regular
may seem
tailors it
to
find
a
System
Sacks, Riding Habits,
etc.,
rather
ir-
Cutting
for for
ladies, in
a book intended solely for the benefit and use of
tailors.
my work notice
But
would not consider
I
quite complete
if
I
omitted to
branch of our business, which
tills
of late years has
become more and more
closely connected with
it.
Time was wlien Tailors were rarely ever requested
to
make a garment
wear, and even then
^w
for
lady's
to
under-
cared
take the job, but the superiority of style, fit
and workmanship of garments so made
were
such
that
it
has
grown
to
be a
recognized fact that they can never properly
be
legitimate
made except by business.
Owing
those
in
to
this,
the I
same matter as described as
follows
:
Length
of
length, 23i; shoulder, 26;
for a frock coat, waist,
13i
;
full
blade, 11, 22^
;
LI NTH I C UM
32
breast, 36
Draw
A
base line
From O
skirts
26 on Division
A
the tape at
on the Diagram.
mark
B
and
bj^
Draw
A
mark
D
C and
line B,
From
A.
measure
breast
placing
O
on the tape
at 1
C mark
2 to 5 on line
angles
on Division at 2
by
D, the
Dia-
the figures
on the tape
C mark
5 to 6 on line
corresponding
on Division
witli
F by
the figures
the breast measure 36
placing O- on the tajie
3 to 7 on line
D
the fignies
by placing O^ on the
lin(>
and
line
It
will
E from
F from
5
to
a
7
tlirough
o
to
8,
be ol)served by the operator in
inch
greater
variation in the
stooping
a
indicates
or
erect form
Place 11
on
inch
tlie
tape at
up
continue the blade measure 8,
adding three-eights of an
G
Diaw
line
From
8 to 9 on line
irom 8
and
o,
E
line
to
as an
incli
allowance for seams, padding,
etc.
O.
to
E mark
the figures
corresponding with the slioulder measure
H
26 on Division
Draw
by placing O^ on the Diagram.
tlie
from
line I
for
9
the
jiitch
of
neck.
From
9 to 10
on
on Division
line I
mark
the figures
at 9
placing 0^ on the ta])e
I, b}'
on the Diagram.
Draw sweep J
for
to
by Division E
tiian
sweep J out a
front
breast
the
T),
is
measure
Form
tlie
making the
ni)per
line,
Cuive
17 to
form
shown
in
tlie
Diagram.
]>art
of
the liack
little
front at waist, as
().
the distance given
half
at the
the changes
using 2 on the back as the pivot.
apjilying the blade measure from 2 tliat
ta])e
the Diagram.
at 3 on
Draw
G
mark
waist measure 26
coi-res]ionding with the
on Divisicm
al-
for
5,
corresponding with the breast measure 36
on the Diagram.
From
making
when a
directed for coats
tape at 8 on
on the Diagram.
From
at 5
placing O'
ladies,
through
7
the pitch of the front shoulder point, and
B
line
corresponding with the breast measure 36
E by
E from
line
blade measure
gram.
From
cutting garments for
ways draw
And
with the
on
the Diagram.
side body, instead of
on Division
36
be taken from in
adapt the garment to the measure
on
the figures corresponding
must
shown
at
at right to 4
1
this case
on
the breast measure 36 on Division C.
with line
which in
O
placing
corresponding with
figures
tlie
YS TE MS.
When figures
corresponding with the shoulder measure
3,
S
A.
and 2 mark the
to 1
S
the side body, as
of the Jacket, 58 inches.
bottom
at the
and over the
waist, 26,
;
'
at
width at top half
and
the
the
by dis-
wide at
tance ))etween 8
and
4 (by a half
three-fourths of an inch)
to
9,
less
LINTIIICUM'S SY8TE3IS.
than
width
the
by
given
Apply the measure for
Division
D.
inches
lengtli 13 1
waist and 23i full length.
Measure out from
tom
shown
at
at the
a-
f)ii'edtioi)^ iot f)i'Mtir|^ >'^leeve
Note.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A/?
and
given
additio7i-s or cUstances
in all larger or smaller
ingly/.
the back seam from the waist to
and the side seam of the back simi-
lar
to
sack
a
in
it
on
Cut
coat.
line G,
F
tlie
back and
form the
position to
der by placing line rectly
the back
on
always touching line
piece
of
F'orm
paper
to
and apply the measure from
"
17
shown by
from
the
waist
the dottixl lines
on
sweep
(for
tlie
front
enough
5
12
to
Mark
16.
body
for size
to
16,
to
16,
the
point
a cut under the
dotted
the
form the
to
mark
the
sleeve.
lines).
From
corresponding
figures
by placing O" on the tape
From
5 to 13
corresponding
on Divisions
at 5
on the
and 14 mark the
figui'es
as
Dia-
to 17,
as
arm
the (tak-
with
K
Draw
the scye measure 15
and L by placing O" on
the tape at 5 on
in-
length in front)
slioalder
line 11 at right angles with
shown by
large
large
from the bottom of the side seam using the
15
Place a piece of paper under the Draft
Diagram.
tlie
a line from 13 to
O" on the tape
at
Form
Division K.
13,
15,
at
mark
shown
amount
of
in
at
tlie
least
Diagram
half
Diagram.
and
fullness
being desirable in
15 on
the sleeve as already
which point
must be reduced as
and place
15,
and
directed for a frock coat on
except at a
carefully
the
gram.
Draw
scye
with the scye meastire 15 on Division J
cluding the back 29 inches, and form the
seam
the
Paste a
E.
form the part marked
around the bottom
^y^teii|.
Diagram.
forepart
the
to
of
the upper part of the side
scye,
tl|e
di-
and mark the shoulder
latter
pivot.
Draw (as
shoul-
and neck gorge, the hollow part
enougli
C
line
11,
side
measure
First inches.
Form
and
Šivife^ioi^^cil
garments
increased or diniinisJied accord-
mi/st be
Hadk by
foi' I^^tly'^^
intended for the mlddte or 36
in inches are
place
the front double
on the Dia-
11
gram.
Hize^
Form
half at the waist).
bot-
and
three
the back, three to
of
half inches, as
ing out from an inch to an inch and a-
or single breasted as desired.
A
line
33
a
tlie
1,
sleeve
an inch,
The same
squareness
lady's gaiment.
not
LINTIIKJUM' S SYSTEMS.
34
sponding with the breast measure 86 on
D
Division
by
Clo^e-fittin^ J^dket
tl^e
1
As Shown on Diagram 131,
11.
22i,
11,
26,
23|,
36,
E by
back of neck to the
placing O^ on the tape
the Diagram.
hip).
From' 5
4
on
to 6
C mark the
line
F by
on Division
From
placing O^ on the tape
the Diagram. 3
mark
to 7
the
Division at 3
by placing 0^
E
line
line
F
from
from 5
tance given by Division
to
1
A
line
and
mark
2
When
A. the
figures
corresponding with the shoiilder measure 26 on
divisions
on the tape at at 3 tlie
mark l)n'ast
Diaw
From
1
and on
A to
D
4
ways draw
the
body, instead
figures
corre-
side body,
ladies, al-
for
from 7 tlirough shoulder
front
tlie
tlie
garment
the
to of
5 for
point,
measure
making the
changes directed for coats when a variation
in
the
blade
measure
stooping or erect form. inch tape at
mark
E
line
the pitch of
at the side
A.
a half inch
is
cutting garments
and adapt
at right angles
8,
the Diagram.
in
O
jilacing
measure 36 on Division C. B, C and
E
Diagram, and
B by
tlie
the figures corresponding with
lines
with line
A O
to
be ob-
that the dis-
5,
must be taken from the
shown
5
will
It
measure, which, in this
greater than the
draw base
tape
the operator, in applying the
served by
as
the
7 through to 0.
blade measure from 2 to
case,
on
on
26
on the Diagram.
Draw and
G
corres-
figures
measure
ponding with the waist
From O
figures
corresponding with the breast measure 36
at 5 on
First
figures
26,
at 2 on
20 (from the
C mark the
2 to 5 on line
corresponding with the breast measure 36
on Division
Measure
at
on the Diagram.
From
f)iYi^ioi\kl ^3^^ten|.
by placing O on the tape
measure up
5,
line
to 8,
a
the
blade
adding
three-
and continue
E
indicates
Place 11 on the
LINTHIGUM' S SYSTEMS.
eighths of an
inch
seams, padding,
an allowance for
as
Draw
line
From
8 to 9 on line
from 8
the back
O.
to
E mark
the figures
corresponding with the shoulder measure 26 on Division
H
by placing O*
From
to 10
9
line
I
pitch of neck.
9 for
mark
sion I
Form
Draw sweep J
the tape at 9 on
width of the back at top tance between 8 and
as
From
mark
and a-half
ten
inches.
half
to
and draw sweep
16,
pivot.
the
the
waist and
From
We
point
Form
17,
the
as
around the bottom
to 22
the lapel
and
the back, front and bot-
and
Jacket,
the
of
must be marked with
A, as shown at 11 on the Diagram.
est part,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; All additions
from 16 to
shoulder
inches.
now have
Apply
Add
21
K
front of Jacket.
dis-
23|
front
mark twenty
tom 13i
the
three inches outside of
the
remainder
care.
the waist measure at
the small-
and ascertain the exact quantity
or distances given
to
be dispensed with, and form two cuts,
inches are intended, for the middle or
as
shown
Note.
36
11,
Apply
Form
9.
Apply the measure
A
body, lap-
side
the measure twenty inches from 8
using
Make
shown on the Diagram.
line
the
the dotted lines at 19.
20
to
line,
breast
front
for
the front breast line from sweep J to 21,
length.
of
on the back nearly out to
jiing it
shown by
using 2 on the back as the pivot.
in
the line
line E.
breast measure on Divi-
tlie
by placing 0^ on
full
always resting on
the figures coi-res-
the Diagram.
as
F on
line
on G, and mark the
directly
of the latter
19
ponding with
position to
in
shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part
on the
Draw
tape at 8 on the Diagram.
from
Place back
Division D.
form the shoulder by placing
etc.
G
35
size.,
and, in all larger or smaller gar-
25 and 26,
cordingly.
reduce
one and
from
the
width of back at the waist
a-half
inches,
and
the
Form and
cut
the
width at 4 a half inch
less
Take out
L
back,
making the
than given by
the
24,
and between
take out the surplus cloth to
Jacket
the
to
exact
waist
measure.
bottom
11 to 18, six inches.
Diagram and marked X,
between 23 and
X, and
ments must he increased or decreased ac-
Make
the
in
spring
(as
and
17.
at 17,
half an inch
Add
for the
a
and have
little it
between
skirt),
K
and
between 16
fullness to the skirt
sewed in
to the body.
LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS.
36
gleeve
©ii'edtioii,^ foi' f)i'kftii\^
foi'
f)ii'edtioii^ foi' 'Di'liftii)^
%^n\i
Sh.l)it b}^ tl\e ©iYife^ioiVal
I<kdy'^ dlo^e-fittii|rf Jacket
^y^teii]. tDy tl^e Divi,s^ioi\^l
As Shown on Diagram Measure measure
First
Draw
inches.
C
line
enough
From
mark
with
ponding
mark
figures
the
the scye measure
by placing 0^ on
L,
15
23.
Draw
base line A.
on
tape at
tlie
5 to
and
13
with
cori'esponding
on Divisions
15
26,
36,
corres-
measure
on the Diagram, and from
14
12.
22^,
11,
Draft
tlie
ligures
Division J by placing 0» on 5
26,
sleeve.
the
scye
tlie
20,
23i,
lines).
clotted
under
paper
form the
to
5 to 12
with
at right angles
shown by the
(as
Place a piece of large
H
line
careMly 15
scye
the
15^-,
K
and
the tape at 5 on the
Diagram.
Draw
a
line
from 13
angles with line F,
and mark
figures corresponding with
15 on Division
ure
K
by
at
to 15,
tlif
at
right
15 the
scye meas-
]ihicing
O" on
tape at 13 on the Diagram.
tlie
Form
tlie
sleeve as already directed for
From O
to 1
and
2,
mark
the
figures
corresponding with the slnuilder measure a.
iit
frock coat on Diagram wliicli
least
gram,
point
half an
the
squareness <i;armcnts.
it
iiicli,
same
must
1,
except at
15,
reduced
at
be
as sliowii un the Dia-
amount
of
fullness
or
not being desirable in ladies'
26 on Divisions
A
and B, by placing
on the tape at
O
on
at 3
mark
tlie
O
Diagram, and
the figure corresponding
with
the breast measure 36 on Division C.
Draw
lines B,
with line A.
C and
D
at right angles
LINTHIGUM' S SYSTEMS.
From
to 4
1
on
line
C mark
the figures
corresponding with the breast measure 36
D
on Division at
1
by placing O on
the tape
back as the pivot. tape at
ure
up
C mark
2 to 5 on line
the figures
Place 11 on the inch
and continue the blade meas-
5,
line
E
to 8
add three -eighths
on the Diagram.
From
37
an inch as an allow-
ance for seams, padding,
G
ccjrresponding with the breast measure 36
Draw
on Division E by placing O^ on the tape
P^rom 8 to 9 on line
Diagram.
at 2 on the
From
the figures
ponding with the breast
F by
Division
corres-
measure 36 on
3 to 7
on
D mark
the figures
corresjDonding with the waist measure 26
G
on Division at 3
and
by placing O^ on the tape
E from
line
F from
line
served by
the
7 through 5 to
5 to O.
case
It
When waj's
5,
in
be ob-
will
E
is
a half inch
the measure, which
in
at 9
side
body,
the Diagi-am.
line
E from
reducing the
to
7 through
5
al-
to
the measure
mak-
ing the changes directed for coats,
when
side-body, instead
in
the
blade
measure
indi-
cates a stooping or erect form.
Draw sweep J from
6,
with
maik the
using 2 on the
the
figures
cor-
measure 36
breast
by placing O^ on the tape
I
on the Diagram. the width
back at
of
top
and
9,
half
at the
waist one inch.
Form and
cut
the
back,
width at 4 a half inch
less
making the
than given by
Division D.
Place the back in position to form the shoulder by placing line
F
on the back
and mark the shoul-
der and neck gorge,
the hollow part of
the latter always touching line
Form little
the front waist
inches,
to
17,
at the
by curving out a
from sweep J, as shown at
Apply
fi'om
E
shoulder point.
front
by
of
a variation
from 9 for pitch of neck,
directly on line G,
pitch the fi'ont shoulder jjoint and adapt the size of the blade
I
the distance between 8 and
this
cutting Garments for Ladies,
draw
8,
that the dis-
must be taken from the
shown
the figures
by placing 0^ on the
to 10
9
on Division
operator, in applying the
tance given by Division greater than
line
responding
Make
blade measure from 2 to
as
Draw
on the Diagram.
Draw
E mark
tape at 8 on the Diagram.
and from
line
H
26 on Division
placing O^ on the tape at
5 on the Diagram.
From
etc.
from 8 to O.
corresponding with the shoulder measure
mark
to 6
5
line
which
inches, to
22^
of
8,
16.
the measure for length at hip 20
and
for length of
front 23 inches
and the waist measure from 16 and remove the
surplus material
L I NT HI GUM'S S Y8 TEMS.
38
by forming two
X X
marked
cuts
the Diagram and between 18 and
on
the waist
between 19 and 20 reduce
¥o
^n]^n
Di'hft
^kii't.
and
19,
Diagram
to
Draw
the neat measure.
A
base line
From O
to
A.
mark
1
13.
length of
the
skirt
(8 inches).
¥o
f)i'kft
Sleeve
foi' flkl^it
by
From
tl^e
1 to 2
mark
one-sixth of the waist
mark
one-sixth of the waist
measure.
From measure
Fu'st
with
scye
the
care
15
measure.
Draw
inches.
Draw
line
line C, as
the
H
5 at right angles
from
shown by
dotted
the
From
Diagram.
to
5
12
with
lines
mark
on the
to
(omitting the liack), and adaj^t the length
the
of
taken.
by placing 0« on
shown
on Division J
1.5
the curved line from 1 through 3
Measure the bottom of the Habit
4.
figures con'esponding with the scye meas-
ure
2 to 3
curved
Form in
line
to
the
the balance of
measure
so
the skirt as
the Diagram.
the tape at 5 on the Diagram.
From
and 11 mark the
5 to 13
corresponding with the
on Divisions
K
scye
figures
measure 15
Dii'edtioi)^ foi'
As Shown on Diagram
the tape at 5 on the Diagram.
Draw a
line
from
angles with line F,
13
to
at right
15
and mark
at
the
15
figures corresponding with the scye meas-
ure on Division
K
by placing O" on the
Form
the sleeve in
all
duced
respects as
frock coat in Diagram
cept at 15, at which point at least half
the Diagram,
the
Draw
^kii't.
it
di-
ex-
1,
must be
re-
an inch, as shown in
same amount
of
full-
base line
39.
A A
along the double
mark
one-sixth
edge of the cloth.
From O
to
1
the
of
breast measure.
Draw
tape at 13 on the Diagram.
rected for
DAftii]^
and L by placing 0« on
and from
B,
line
to
2
mark
one-third of the Ineast measure, and from
2 to 3
mark
one-third of the breast meas-
ure.
From length
1
say
apply
5
to
47
ness and squareness not being desirable in
part
of the
a ladv's "-arment.
back
iiart fr(jm
inches.
skirt
from
3 to 4.
the
measure
Form 2
to
the 4,
for
front
and
tlie
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Make 4,
Line C at the bottom represents the
the widtli of the skirt from 5 to
twenty-five inches.
This will
make
the
39
side
and
the skirt full length,
of
left
line
D
where the right side must be shortened.
The
the waistViand
front of
Plait the back part
shown by the
lines in
the
of
and written
said
relative merits of Divisional
Exact Measurement Systems.
among
advocates
zealous
skirt as
the Diagram.
Very mucli has been
upon the
belt is
and the back part by
represented by E, F.
or
and
Both have
the
intelligent
portion of the trade, and both are valuaI believe
ble.
will agree
thinkers on the subject
all
that to the moderately experi-
enced Cutter of average sional of
System
measures
are less,
commit he
is
simple, less
is
errors in manipulating
in the
(which
The number
more
The Gutter
easily taken.
Exact
and
liable to
them than
Measurement process
greater
requires
the Divi-
ability,
the best.
is
and much
skill
practice in measuring), while to an expert
the latter system
is
preferable.
the theory correct, and practiced,
features
whole
skirt one
hnndred
yards and three-qiiarters, which for
any
skirt of
medium
or
inches,
size.
is
two
ample
that
it
ter
in Divisional
to
intelligently
overcomes objectionable
duces better fitting
Garments
when
I believe
Systems,
and pro-
and more comfortable
the wearer.
must be advanced
in
How
far a Cut-
his
jorofession
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
40
before
lie
ex-
foi' tl)e
foi' ]\Ie^>s^iu'ii\^
f)ii'e(ftioi]^
not pretend to state, as opin-
I will
pert,
deemed an
be
can safely
jsfew 'Pluiqb ^y^tenq. sure to differ
ions are
the matter, and
my
widely
regarding
may
not be ap-
views
One thing
preciated.
a great
certain,
is
take the fuU length of waist and
First, skirt,
and then length the back,
of
centre
plication of the Cutter, in the settling of
(Turn to
over the vest.
my
admonishing
take the
I will
the question individually.
readers to well
and carefully practice the taking of meas-
gram
No.
mark
at
Vest, as
the
side
location
cloth as taken on the body, for eveiy in-
point
distant
directly
appear
vnll
Garment
the
in
the
In publishing
when completed.
ac-
you
I
am
to
offering
kind ever invented. tirely
ple
It
and
to myself,
and application.
now being used tablishment, opi)Oi-tunity
merits,
and
which
the
of
the
origin en-
its
is
simple in
It
has been, and
my
in
for
owes
is
ample
afforded
thoroughly result
i)rinci-
Avenue Es-
Fifth
has
medium
three
to
Hence,
testing
been
has offer
I
ply a want long
method of
lor
correct
ligiires.
felt,
fitting
in
4.5
2^
be
will
its
most
See that the seam
3| inches).
Vest back
is
in
the centre of
and the Vest drawai at
tlie
Now
place
in
the
Plumb
to
it
it
will
resented on the figure). line over the
and down
line
equally
and
well
in
buckle. position,
By drawing
shoulder, and slipping
a
few times, the it
it
the uj)
weight
at-
to the
de-
the
the arm.
Request
su])-
your customer
giving
tlie
moderately close
by the strap and
waist
of
the body,
directly in front of the shoulder (as rep-
them a weiglit
]iroportions
(The
inches.
from
measure,
sired place in front of
Trade, feeling confident that
for
two
sizes,
ranging from 34 to
tached to the line will draw satisfactory.
shoulder
the
Trade the
the
method
practical
A, the
figure at
I
to
and most
best
the
desire
In the
and three-quarter-
inches, breast
believe
and
neck on
from the socket-bone,
width of back.
distance in sizes
companying Exact Measiirement System,
Dia-
Coat,
the
the
of
shown on the
exact
be
to
Figure or
Remove
40).
applied to
designed
accuracy
way,
usual
The breast 36 and waist 32
over a Coat.
ures
the
in
upon the ambition and ap-
deal depends
liberty of
from the
of sleeve,
forms
ill-shaped
is
still,
to
remain quiet until
then
mark
the
the Vest per-
pendicular with the line at B, and at the
hollow of waist at C.
Cross
mark
in
just over
the hii)
tlie
this
mo.st
latter
hoi-
LINTiriCUM'S SYSTEMS.
low part
Plumb
the
of
Lay
waist.
the
aside
and proceed with the
line
©ii'edtioiv'^ foi' ©liiftii)^
same position
as possible
to
st)cket-lione
side of the
DiAGEAM
:
the
mark
2|
inches.
neck A, say
place end of the tape at
measure down Avith
tl\Q ]\'Iek^iii'eii(ei)t
customer in as near
From From
hy
the follo\Ting measures veri/
carefidli/, keei^ing the tlie
Sody-
inch
doh,t^ tape, to take
41
follows— 19,
Then
18,
191, 111,
First
71,
38,
201, 32,
36,
2i,
9|,
measure
as
32,
7|^
draw base
line
A
A.
and
arm,
the
of
front
in
the measures taken, which read as
at the
mark A, and
tlie
14.
hand placed
the fingers of the riglit
under the arm, ascertain the correct depth scye, say 9h
of
measure
to the
and continue the
inches,
mark
hollow of the
at the
waist C, say 18 inches.
From
same
tlie
measure back
arm
the
of
to
Figui-e
C, at
the
di'aw
as straight a
in
the shoulder blade,
line as possible, over
down
A,
point.
waist (represented on the
by the dotted
line),
say lOi inches.
Place the end of the tape in the centre of the back, opposite
scye
(the
mark
at
Place the end of of the waist,
back
at
say
tape
hollow
and measure forward
taken will read 18,
B),
the
19|,
m,
19, 72.
llA
in
20^,
inches.
part to
32,
the
the centre of
the
The measure 38,
scye,
tlie
the front of
to
the
at C, say 71 inches.
dh,
bt)ttom of
tlie
and measure forward
the
mark
as above
30, 32, 2h,
From O
to
I
apply
taken on the body 2,
18 inches.
9i
From O
measure, 36 inches.
the
inches. to
01,
From O the
to
breast
LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS.
42
From
2 to
the
at
5,
back, 19^
of
top
inches.
From
to
1
From
11 1 inches.
6,
2 to
7,
Divide
3,
distance between between
tlie
two equal
into
1
two eqnal
and
from
and
4,
at
3 into
G
line
Use 2 as the
1,
a
Use
from
line
Draw
B
line
the
as
1
L
(for
of an inch outside of
in
from
D
L
line
8 to
at
line
C
Measure
Measure for width
L
to
10 to
back
of
Ih
Form, the back,
1(J.
(as
back as
of
to])
shown on the Diagram, from
line
for front of coat.
Divide the distance between 2 and 13 on
J
in exact equal parts, as
Draw
a
9.
inches keej)-
angles with line
A
(in
to
12
at
right
A, and line J from 2 at
right angles witli line
measure again
1
tiie
A
A.
Place the inch
Draft, starting from
the
shoulder
(front
edge resting on
straight
K
From
21 to
to 17.
mark one-fourth
22,
Apply
breast measure.
of the
the measure
for
length of waist 19 inches.
Draw
a sweep from
side-l)ody
to
length
the
of
the
K
Complete and cut Place the tliunib
till
and mov(>
the
the
using the front
back.
tlie
of
of
regulate
the pivot.
as
the left
tli<^
dotted line 6 is
is
and
lU 1
in this
inches,
on
hand on the
side-
top of back forward
distance between
the
back
(to
where the back joins
F,
tween
the bottom
front
forepart),
shoulder point at
l)ody,
from
K
from
line
dotted lines from
above line G. 1
at 15.
H, as shown on the Diagram by the
line
line
line
shown
through 14 to K,
a line fi'om IS
Draw
ing the point at 10 one-foui'th of an inch
Di'uw
13,
for-
for pitch of the front shoulder point.
Square from 8 to 9
with line L, and form the
waist
D
inches
21
9,
and
2,
half the
J,
line
allow for
(to
line
ward of
5.
at the natural waist).
taken on the body).
from
on
13,
3,
between the l)ack and
material taken out
body
at
K
C, three-fourths
line
at
to
back seam) through the
F and
shown
with 7J inches, resting at
7,
point), with
line
on
O
and sweep
pivot,
at
line
through
11
Place the measure, starting from sweep
14.
D
equal parts, as
in exact
I
to 12
11
and
1
measure, 16 inches, adding one inch,
line
6.
intersection of lines
side
from
inches
2|
and
1,
18 inches,
E
and sweep
pivot,
and
7,
through
measure,
from
for the front shoulder j)oint.
tlirough
and add
mark
4.
and sweep
pivot,
F from
line
2,
H
shown
as
parts,
Use 01 as the from
resting at
llj,
at 11,
line
as sliown at
parts,
and the distance between
line
with
6,
half the breast
Divide the distance between
7| inches.
and
sweep C at
mark
line
})osition,
K K the
along the
same as
be-
WJiile
the
F.
form
the
back
LIN THI C UM
part of the scye and
the side seam, tak-
ing out a half to three-fourths of an inch
'
S
S
nntural
waist,
require-
the
Place 9 on the back at
K
on the
From
Complete
and the remainder of the scye.
and the side-body,
adding the necessary spring
tom
the
at
a square or high shoulder
raise the
back at
16,
in
wadding.
It
is
desirable
that this be done
when the shoulders
the customer are
inclined
fact,
it
tect
and
is
the
his customers.
of
art of his
droop.
to
duty of the cutter
improve
all
In
much above
above line
is
above
A A
line
as 19
forward at
is
Ajoply
to
measure for length to the
the
back),
and
full
plete
the
form
length of
witli
the Draft large enougli to form
observed
like
that
in
the
Com-
inches.
and by
sleeve,
of
using hard chalk or lead, the lines of the sleeve will be indented
on the paper un-
der the Draft.
true
by
From
care,
16
that
Divisional
position in
tlie sleeve.
this
sleeve,
System,
which
it
is
is
to
Sody^
tl]e >Ieh.t^urerr(ei]t
^y^tetr|.
by
and place a piece of paper under
tlie
32
the
In de-
the
this lies
measure the scye
drafted in
width of the
the
(less
Diagram
be
shown
the imperfections
Di'kftiq^ Sleeve
will
as
1,
Šii^edtioi)^ foi' Di'^ftii^^
It
back
as the
combined.
elbow 20| inches
tl\e ]VIea:^ureii(ei\t By)^teii|.
inches,
G
line
the sleeve at 20 as far forward of
^{\6k
First,
mark
19
to
1
and the shoulder point
CI
line II
Have
calling.
f)ii'edtioq>ÂŤ^ foi'
from
the top of sleeve, having the part
at 16 as
de-
is
and the shoul-
der above line H, and add in making an equivalent
and
half the scye meas-
on the Diagram.
piece under the arm.
When
Form
bot-
of side-body, instead of taking out a
sired,
mark
3 to 18
inches,
8
ure,
fore-
and form the shoulder, neck gorge,
the front, waist seam,
back and forearm seams.
rect length of
one-sixteenth of the scye measure.
ments of the customer.
part,
43
be sewed in the coat, producing the cor-
between the back and side-body, at the according to
TS TEMS.
body 36,
7|
coat,
32, ;
7|.
which reads as follows 20|,
32,
2i,
length of sack, 30'
Draw
base line
From O
1.5.
same measure as taken
tlie
to
1,
A
9^,
18,
:
for
19, 38,
191,
Hi,
inches.
A.
apply
the
taken on the body, 9^ inches
measure as ;
from
O
to
LINTHIVUM' S SYSTEMS.
44
2,
18
and
inches,
O
from
to
the
01,
From
2
to
19| incites
at
6,
from
;
Divide the
1
top of the back,
tlie
to
6,
into two equal parts, as
Divide
Hi
inches.
shown
into two equal parts as
Use 01 as the
H
at
3.
and a
3,
line
O
K
for the front shoulder point.
to
with
9
to
line
Diagram, from 10
from
3
L
line
Form
line
and
L, in
G
from
the
to 9.
inches
7i
to 16.
by cuiving
the back
seam at the waist about
in the centie
an inch, the
lialf
width to fancy, and take out al)Out
line
from
4,
1
4.
and sweep
pivot,
from
shown
at
O and
distance between
tlie
fi-om 8
Measure for width of back
O and
between
distance
Square
form the top of back, as shown
breast measnre, 3G inches.
and
back
inch between the
oik;
forepai-t
at
the natural waist.
Have
the back at IG
an inch above
Draw
line
G.
line
from
I
angles witii lim?
A
to
1
12
right
at
A, and line J, from 2
A
with line
right angles
to 13, at
a fourth to half
A.
Place the inch tape again on the Draft,
L
starting from G on line
resting
at
measure
and mark half
1,
inches
18
inches from 11
between
shown
with llj inches,
1
and
at
14.
at
11,
the
and
breast
add
2|
Divide the distance
to 12.
11 in exact equal parts, as
tape at 2 on the
Place Tj
Diagram,
forward on line J to measure, 16 inches,
13,
on
inches
the
and measure half
the waist
and add one inch
for
front of coat.
Divide the distance
on
Draw
A A at
;
line
and
F
line-
at riylit
L
L,
right angles with
:ini;-h'S
for centre line F,
with
line
of back,
from
G.
Ap])ly the measure 2i inches from line
L
at 8 find 9.
line
J,
between
and 13
2
in exact ecpial ]iarts. as
shown
at la.
Draw for
a line from 15. through 14 to K, of
pitcli
Draw
a
the front shoulder point. line
from
K
(front
shoulder
point\ with the straight edge resting on
LIXTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS.
H, as shown on
line
K
dotted lines from
From
to
mark
21 to 22,
Diagram by
tlie
tlie
45
Šii'edtioiv'^ foi^ f)i'kftii\^
Soely-^kdk by
one-fourth of the
breast measure for the k^notli of the neck
measure
Fii'st
measure
the
Place 9 on the back at
K
tl^e
>Iek^ui'e-
scye -with
the
3(U It
will
be
observed
like
that
in
the
that
sleeve,
this
System,
Divisional
the
is
on the foredrafted in the position in which
and form
part,
IG
care
inches.
length
for
and cut the back.
inches,
foi'
^3^^terq.
ir(eT|t
gorge.
Apply
Sleeve
17.
is to
it
the neck
shoulder,
be sewed in the coat, producing the cor-
and
gorge,
remainder of the scye.
tlie
Use the front shoulder
K
j)oint at
rect
length of back and forearm seam.
as
From pivot,
tiie
3
to
18,
mark
scye
the
half
and draw a sweep from the measure,
bottom of the
seam forward
side
8 inches.
From
1
to
marlc
19,
for the
Form
one-sixteenth of the scye measure.
length of front. the top of
Draw
the front bi'east line from 12 one at
forward of 13
inch
(at
the waist), to
above line
and complete the form above
the
of
double or single breasted,
front,
and delineated on the Dia-
as desired,
H
line
Have the of
liuf,
G
the
part
line Gr as the
back
and the
shoulder point
combined. 20 as
sleeve at
A A
having
sleeve,
much above
inis
tersect the sweep,
16 as
the
as
19
far
forward
forward at
is
as
1,
gram.
shown on the Diagram.
When
a square or high shoulder
is
de-
Apply the measure
for
length
to
the
the
elbow,
20|
inches (less the width of the
shoulder above line H, and add in mak-
])ack),
and
full
raise
sired,
back
the
and
16
at
ing an equivalent in wadding. sirable tent,
in
that all
tliis
cases
be
done,
tect
is
the duty of
and improve
his customers. of his calling:.
In
is
de-
some ex-
to
plete the
form of
tlie
sleeve,
as
shown
on the Diaoram.
where the shoulders of
the customer are inclined fact, it
It
Com-
length, 32 inches.
all
to
tlie
droop.
In
cutter to de-
!)ii'ectioix^ iot
by tl\e
lies
the
true art
^Iea,^uren|ei)t ^y^teir|.
As Shown ox Diagram
the imperfections of
this
Draftii)^ Ovei'-gkdk
By
the
measure
wliich reads as
already
follows
:
19,
16.
taken,
and
7^,
20|,
38,
LINTBICUM\S
46
32, 36,
32,
should
be
2i,
9i,
18,
enlarged
19i,
as
11|, 7|,
follows
intended to be
over-sack,
If
34,
add
thrt'e
measure,
over a inclies
is
the hip,
very thick
under
to the breast
First
and a proportionate increase to
will be observed that
ures taken from
are
the
the side of
enlarged.
two
meas-
the neck to
to
lOJ
From O to
01,
tlie
not
to
1
increased,
only,
and
to size or length.
draw base
enlarged,
coat,
and waist
19|, are
balance measures
have no reference
21,
or to
and
18
as they are
From O
desired loose,
the other measures which It
8,
YS TEMS.
10|, 18, 191, 12, SJ.
the oversack
be worn
an
worn over an
under coat of medium weightâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;-39, 33, 38,
which
for
S
line
A
A.
apply the
measure, as
inches.
2,
18 inches
;
breast measure,
and fiom as enlarged,
38 inches.
From
2
to
5,
to
0,
at
the
top of the back,
191 inches.
From
1
12
inches (as enlarged).
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Divide
the distance
parts,
as
between
O
shown
Use 01 as the
O
K
to
H
line
3,
F
line
to
with
F
and a
4,
and
6,
Apply
L L
line
6.
form the top
of back,
Square from
9.
L
Diagram, from 10 to
Measure line
natural
widtli
of
line
by curving the centre
and
L L
adding
at
the back
to
a
a half
to
and
fancy,
the
take
Mark
the
back
three fourths of an inch above
angles witli
I,
line
from
A
1
A.
to
12,
Phice
at
right
the
inch
tape again on the Draft, starting from 6
L
with
and mark
lialf
on line
enlarged),
19
inches from
12
inches,
the
inches, 11
to
breast at
13.
11,
resting at
1,
measure
(as
and add
2J
Divide
the
half the waist inches,
measure
and add one
(as
inch
13,
equal parts, as shown
in exact
Draw a
dis-
from
line
Draw a
15,
through
from
line
K
witli the straight
point),
14,
to K,
of front shoulder point.
for the pitch
(front
shoulder
edge resting on
H, as shown on the Diagram by the
dotted lines from 21
K
to
17.
and 22 mark one-fourtli of the
breast 'measure
for
the
length
neck
of
gorge.
App]y
the measure 39 inches for length,
and cut the back. at
K
Place 9 on the baciv
on the forepart, and form the scye,
and
shoulder,
Use
tlie
tlie
front
neck gorge.
K
shoulder point at
as
the pivot, and sweep a line from
tlie
bot-
seam forward
for
the
tom line
13,
17
line J,
at 16
line G.
Draw
on
litth^
making
25,
out one inch between the l)ack and forepart at the waist.
in ex-
I,
14.
a-half for front breast line.
From
waist,
outside of
line
at
Divide the distance between 2 and
line
9.
seam, inside of line L, L, a half inch at the
enlarged)
to 16.
back
the
the
width of back S inches
for the
L
J to
line
and
L,
shown on
as
showm
as
at 15.
the measure, 2\ inches, for width
between 8 and
and 11 on
1
Place 8j inches on the inch tape at 2
and
angles
at right
8 to 9 at right angles with line
Form
from
back seam, from
for centre
of back,
from
G
line
line
right angles with line
at
tance between
act equal parts,
on the Diagram, and measure forward on
4.
for the front shoulder point.
Draw
A A
1
and
3,
and sweep
jaivot,
from
at
and 3 into two
equal parts, as shown at
from
O and
between
distance
tlie
into two eqnal
47
of
the
side
length of front.
Draw
the front breast line
12 one inch
the waist),
X X
from
and a-half forwai'd of 13 to intersect the
sweep
at
(at 24,
and complete the form of the front double or
single
breasted,
as
lineated on the Diagram.
desired
and
de-
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
48
When
a square or high shoulder
de-
is
sired, raise the back at 16 and the shoul-
Complete and cut the sleeve as heretofore directed for bodv-sack.
der above line H, and add an equivalent
wadding wln'u making.
in
It is desirable
f)ii'edtioi|,<^
iot Diiiftiii^ ¥i'oii^ei'^.
that this be done, to some extent, on all
In fact,
clined to droop.
cutter
of the
detect
to
imperfections of
the
are
where the shoulders
customers
the duty
is
it
and improve
all
customers.
In
his
As Shown on Diagkam
in-
By
17.
the measure taken as follows
From
the
hip
42
inside
to
the
knee,
:
24
;
full
this lies the true art of his calling.
Sleeve
f)ii'edtioii>^ foi' ©I'kftir^^
hy
OYei'-^h..dk
>Iea&We-
tl^e
measure the
First
foi'
with
scye
care
17
inches. all so
This Sleeve, like this work,
which ducing
drafted in
is
is
it
the
position
be sewed in the
to
the
far described in
length
correct
coat,
in
i>ro-
back and
of
forearm seams.
From
3 to 18,
mark
half the scye meas-
mark
one-sixteenth of the
ure, 8| inches.
From
1
to 19,
scye measure.
Fnrm ])art
Itack pi lint
is
f>f
toi»
sleeve,
much above
above line
above line
Have line
the
at Ki as
H
G
having
line
G
as
as 19
on the Diagram.
is
the
and the shoulderlength,
com1)ined.
the sleeve at 20 as far forward
A A
tlie
forward at
1,
as
of
shown
;
seat, 30; knee,
From O inches.
to
li);j
1,
seam, ;
H2
Ixittom,
apply the
Avaist,
;
30
18.
measure 24
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
From O
to 2, 42 inclies
length of
(full
2 to
32 inches (length of inside
3,
Draw
C and D,
lines B,
A
with line
From
3
at right angles
A.
on
4
to
mark one-fourth
mark
B,
line
;
and from 5
;
one-
from 4 to
to
.'5,
mark
6,
Draw
E
line
from 4
7 to
From
7 to
8,
7
to
(very
mark
three inches.
mark
three inclies
9,
and from
to
9
care-
with line B.
fully), at right angles
From
line
F
from
one inch, mak-
10,
9
width
the
about half an inch,
through 5 to 11
of
the
mark
(to
at
line for
From
3.
3
11
to
one-fourth of the waist measure, of the outside
on the diagram from 12
sliowai
Form
raise
it
when
the customer
is
taking
prevailing fashion,
care not to curve
it
too
mm^h.
Now
C(mies
one of the most important points in tn^isers
cutting.
"The
dress,"
upon
root,
where
it
and the former requiring
considerable space in width Just below the
made
and
it is
necessary that provision be
in order to secure
a good, clean
intended to
fit
fit.
at
all
be cut without dress and placed on
the bod}', the seam
down
the front
must
in consequence be on one side of the penis,
which removes fourths of an
on the undress this
from
it
inch,
the centi'e
which causes a
and an unsightly
side.
I
threetight-
fullness
produce a remedy for
ugly fault by cutting away the undress
side a half to three-fourths of an inch
adding the same quantity
front
and
to the dress side
this
as
oi'
in
other woi'ds,
seam three-fourths
of
cutting the
an inch from
the centre and leaving the dress side, at at least one
the
the
the body below
sideration,
3.
the inside seam, from 6 to 10, acto
sus-
is
to
shown on the diagram,
front, as
and
to
as represented on the diagram under con-
corpulent.
cording
course,
seam
cutting for small-waisted customers,
drop the 11,
front
and draw a
and complete the form
at
of
The sack which
one and a half inches at the
ness on the dreys
the outside seam from 8 to
When
mine,
centre of
joins to the body,
close, (in all
pitch the front waist line).
Reduce
in the
If ti'ousers, that are
ing the width of the bottom seven inches.
Draw
pended
crotch,
one-eighth of the seat measure.
as
;
reasonable.
the abdomen, the latter measuring at least
fourth of the seat measure
12
seems
me,
many
there are
sid:)ject,
contains the testicles and the penis
seam).
cases),
upon every other
conflicting opinions
trousers).
From
49
iTudress
smooth
fit
6,
and a half inches greater than side,
thus
in the crotch,
securing a clean,
and a remedy
for
the leg of the dress side twisting at the
bottom
;
complete the draft of the crotch
by marking forward and to three-fourths of
Itack of 6 a half
an inch, and the same
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
50
quantity
and forward of the front
liack
line at 11,
and place
and complete and cut the front position
in
to
draft the back
part as shown on diagram 18. lines B, C,
Continue
and D.
iMtcli of
Apply
the back.
measure 15 inches from
half the waist
and from
to 12,
11
19 to 20, adding two inches (17 in
and the
seams,
cut,
which
all)
for
taken out
is
Apply
over the hips to give them fonn.
half the seat-measure IS inches from 5 to
and
15
on
5 to 16,
line B.
Apply the measure of the in the
to
bottom 18 inches.
ascertain the size
Half
tlie inci'ease
width of the back over the front must
be added to each side of the front bottom, for instance the size
is
:
[at
the
in the present draft
18 inches, the top side or front
already cut seven inches, leaving eleven
is
inches for the back, which greater than the front
;
is
four inches
place half of this,
or two inches between 10 and IS, and the
balance between 8 and 17 always adding for
Apply the nieasure
seams.
size of
the
for
knee 19^ inches and add for seams.
Complete the delineated
on
lines for
the back part as
the diagram,
crotch of the back part,
as
dropping
tlie
shown
14,
at
three-eighths of an inch.
The waist-band may he added or cut separate as
shown on
ing described. the
From f'ightli
on
G
to
14,
on
line
line
F,
mark
mark
B,
of the seat-measure.
one-third
From of
one-
the
seat-
Draw
from
G,
through 13 for the
All the divisions used in
directions
apply
to
AVheu the customer has hips the average,
be line G,
diagrams now be-
the
seat-
measure.
5 to 13,
measure.
above
tlie
and
it is
larger than
desirable that a measure
taken over the most proininent applied to the draft.
part,
The same meas-
LINTHIOUM'S SYSTEMS.
From
ure should be taken for a very corpulent
man when
the belly
prominent between
is
From
have directed that the distance between
7 and
9,
inches
;
draw
on
line D, be, in
which
line F,
at
forward in proportion to the
Diagram is
mark
one-foui'th of the seat6,
one-eighth of
back or
size
of
the
5.
In
the
and
as fixed between 4
seat,
4 to 5
measure, and from 5 to
front of the
range
will
one-fourth of 45 (the
from which to
fixes the
and
11,
mark
cases, three
all
9 serves as a pivot
trousei'S
4,
seat-measure.)
the waist and seat-measure. I
3 to
51
for corpulent figures the distance
greater than in the one just nnder con-
sideration,
consequence
in
measure being
drawn from of
centre
through
larger,
of
and
the
seat-
F
being
line
9 (which is three inches inside
balance
thus
5,
line
bottom)
the
at
placing the
top of
more forward and providing space
line
the for
the corpulent or large-bellied man.
Dii'edtioi),^ foi' 1)i"ciftii\^ Yi'ou^ei'^. foi' h, doi''piiler(t
tl)e
fi^m'e
followii]^
As Shown on Diagkam Measure
25, 44,
base line A,
From ches,
to
by
3U,
19.
44, 45, 22, 19.
Draw
A. 1
and from
apply the measure 25
O
to
2,
f<jr
in-
the full length,
44 inches.
From 31 1
2 to
inches.
the seat-measure. 3,
the lengtli of inside seam,
Di-aw lines B,
right angles with line A. A.
C and D,
at
7,
very
Draw at
carefully,
line E,
right
fi'om 4 to
angles
Une B.
From
7 to
8,
mark
three inches.
with
LIN THIC ITM
52
From 9
to
7 to
the bottom seven
Draw
three inches, and from
inch â&#x20AC;&#x201D; making
one
10,
mark
9,
9,
throngh
to 11 (to
5,
and providing
the front-waist line),
X)itch
When
belly-room for the corpnlant fignre. the customer
is
line
F
will
be found
men.
at
very large in front add to
which
a half to one inch,
11,
S S
YS TEMS.
B
line
measure
apply the
;
to
ascertain
the size of the liottom nineteen inches
;
half
the increase in the width of the back over
inclies.
F from
line
the width of
â&#x20AC;˘
necessary
for
Reduce the width of the
the front must be added to each side of the front at the bottom,
inches
the front or top side
;
is
:
In
nineteen
is
already cut
seven inches, leaving twelve inches for the
extra large
back, which
front, at
front
3,
for instance
the present draft the measure
;
is
inches greater than the
five
place half of
this,
or two
and a half
about half an inch, and draw a line from
inches between 10 and 18, and the balance
8 to 3 for the outside seam.
between 8 and
From
11
to
mark
12,
one-fourth of the
waist-measure,
and from 12
remainder of
the
drafting
front, at 11,
Form
seam.
outside
men always
large
for
from half an inch
to
and add
for
seams
;
complete the remain-
der of the draft, as directed in the previous
diagram, dropping the crotch at 14 about
to
three
fourths
of
an inch, and have the
underside stretched
10.
remarks
up
to
meet
6
front.
in
completed cut the front and place
i>()sition
to
draft the
extending lines B,
From
H
eighth of
to tlie
by
part
and D.
('
(m
14,
l)ack
Clo>^e ^itttii^ ÂĽi'ou0ei'^.
hiitl
B,
line
mark
one-
As Siiowx ox
DiA(ii:.\M
20.
seat-measure, and from o to IVfeasure 24, 42, 32, 30, 36, 17, 17.
13
on the
jiage 49 in reference to the dress.
When it
Ajiply the measure for the size of the knee
the
one inch.
see
always adding for seams.
When raise
the inside seam from
Befoiv marking the crotch (in
form the
to 3
17,
mark
one-third
of
the
base line A, A.
Draw
line
(I,
from
(3,
through 13 for the
From O
pitch of the back.
Apply half the waist-measure twenty-two inches,
from 11 to
12,
and
from 19
to
ailding sufficient for the seams and cut, half the seat-measure twenty-two half
Draw
seat-measure.
inches from
.'5
to
I.")
and
.")
20
and
and oneto
Hi
on
to
1,
to
2,
apply the measure 24
in-
ches.
From length,
apply the measure for
full
42 inches (adding one inch to the
length in
all
cases where the trousers are
intended for riding exclusively.)
From
2 to
L IN Till C UM 'S
SYS TEMS.
adding
Draw
thirty-two inches,
3,
one inch, as directed for the outside seam.
Draw
and D,
lines B, C,
with line A,
at right angles
m
line E, very carefully,
from 4 to
7,
at right angles with line B.
From 7
on line D, mark three
to 8,
in-
ches.
A.
From cases),
7 to
9,
mark
and from
9
three inches (in all
to
one
10,
incli
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;ma-
king the width of the bottom seven
in-
ches.
Draw
F from
line
through 5 to 11
9,
(to pitch the front-waist line.)
Reduce the width
front
the
of
at
3
about half an inch, and draw a line from 8 to 3 for
From
tlie
11
outside seam.
to
12,
mark
seam as shown from 12 small
ing for
-
drop the front let the
one-fourth of the
and complete
waist-measure
waisted
to
the outside
When
3.
draft-
customers always
at 11; for full-waisted
men
top be square with line A, A, and
for co'-pnlent figures raise the front as al-
ready directed
in
the diagram for corpu-
lent figures.
Form
the inside seam from 6 to 10.
Before marking the crotch turn to page 49,
and observe the remarks
to the dress
and apply them
Cut the front and place to draft lines B,
From
8 to
4,
on
line B,
mark
one-fonrth
of the seat-measure
From
4 to
5,
mark
From
the back-part
5 to 6 one-eighth of the seat-measure.
reference
to this draft. it
in
position
by extending
the
C and D. 6 to 14,
on
line B,
of the seat-measure,
one-fourth, and from
in
mark one-eighth
and from
5 to 13 one-
fourth of the seMt-measure, instead of onethird as directed for other trousers,
this
LINTIIICUM'S
54
pair being intended for use in the saddle,
and requiring a more crooked ease to
tiie
Draw
wearer when
G
line
from
f)ii'e^tioi)^
foi'
sitting. 13, for
Apply
and from 19
to 20
adding two
inches for seams and the cut over the hip.
Apply from 5
half the
to 15,
seat-measure 18 ijiches
and from
Apply the measure
in the
of the
widtli
must be added
and
for
the back,
mai'k the length of skirt
1
place the corner of
inches
at
O, Avith the short
;
arm
raise the long
arm
is
arm on
tiui
and
line A,
12 on
until
square
tlie
short
one inch fiom line A, as shown at
In the pres-
:
whicli
and
tlie
is
3
inches
]i]!ice
one-half of
lialf
between 10
a
and the balance Itetween 8 and
always adding for seams nre
to
19
front,
17 inclies;
is
the front,
or one inch 18,
A.
line
back over the front
to each side of the
the measure
greater than this
From
21.
already cut 7 inches, leaving 10
front is
inches
line B.
Cloat.
half the increase
;
at the bottom, for instance
ent draft
^kii't
^i
to ascertain the size
bottom 17 inches
of the
on
5 to 16
S^i'odk
li
Draw base
half the waist-measure 35 inches
li to 12,
ŠAftiii^
As Shown on Diagram
the
pitch of the back.
from
foi'
seat to give
through
6
H r.S TE.VS.
the
for
size
of
;
17,
nj^ply the m(Âťas-
knee
;ind
add
for
seams.
Use
4,
on
line B, as the pivot,
and draw seat-line
2,
and the dotted
and inside seam of the back-pai't as sliown
is
in
on the diagram.
fore]iart-lapel
sweep
TI
Draw
from
and
form
the outside seam of
shown from
All trousei's
through 10
20,
jnst below line
witli
(3
C
foi'
tlie
tlie
back, as
to 17, allowing,
for th<' swell of tlie
riding
c;ilf.
must be made
strai)s at the bottf)m.
uj)
tills
draw
top of
line
and side -body
and ascertain the the
lines; while the square
position
tlie
size of
skirt
and
iidajit
forei)art,
as
in
position,
the skirt.
shown
(as
at
touch line
fourth or three- eighths, 4,
B; place the
Drop 3)
B
the skirt to the form of
shown
at o
;
form
tln'
a at
tlie
plait
LIXTIIICUJirS SYSTEMS.
hainiony
ill
the curve
witli
body as shown
the
of
thighs,
and
a frock-
possible
as
close
as
liaiig
the
to
order to produce this
in
sult the top of the skirt
and a half 4.
It is desirable that the skirt of
coat
side-
in the diagram.
re-
must be cut
as
55
to three-fourths of
an inch at
Place the fore-part and side-body in
position,
and form the front of
harmony with the The above draft
skirt in
front breast line. will serve for either of
the sj^stems published in this work.
directed above with one inch fullness sewed
and carefully pressed out; the
in
skirt should be cut a half-inch
till'
Cllt-clAY^y
plait of
than the back skirt and contracted with a stay and the round pressed forward to
Co^t^.
As Shown on Diagkam
longer
Diagram 23 gives popular
styles
of
23.
illustrations
cutaway
of three
coats,
given
the jjrominent part of the hip.
A
above directed, will serve
skirt cut, as
by
for a bod}- drafted
measurement
or
Dii'edtioii^
01'
Coh.t.
Diagram line
liase
From O
to
Place the
2'2.
A.
mark
1,
^kii't
f)oiil3le-8i'e^^ted
^loi'iiiii^
Draw
h
Di'liftiii^
foi'
Biii^le
foi'
either the divisional
sj'stems.
the length of skirt.
corner of
the
square at O,
with the short arm resting on line A, and raiso
aim by
arm
the long is
12
on the short
one inch from line A,
the
square
until
dott(>d is
in
at
position
to]i
of
O
form the plait
to ;
3,
drop
as
draw
the skirt
about one line
B
shown
While
2.
this
and form the ing in from
lines
the B,
line
by markincji,
and
a seam at
3,
more
]iarticularly for the benefit
ance of
those wlio
and guid-
are not advanced in
the art of garment cutting.
LINTHtC VM
5G
Letter
A
a double
-
shows the breasted
fore-part, as cut for
frock
coat,
-
while
B
points out the change or additions neces-
'
S S
TS TEMS.
pleted
make
change
to
the
24
front of waist
the front of skirt attached.
lapel
C forms
lines
of a single-breasted coat,
and dotted
front
and
with
the front and skirt
walking or cut-away
D
line
delineates
skirt of a two-button
which
collar,
single button
also
the
cut-away
serves
for
the
cut-away.
and
in this
diagrams
operator a good idea
common
waist-coats in time.
It
breasted
is
or
drafted) to
as
first
of
the
variety
of
use at the present
waist-coat
is
to
be
form the front or fore-part
shown on diagram
the
fore-part
When
collar cut separate.
or
with the
coat as drafted,
cut
or four buttons maj^
be used.
Diagram
25
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Gives
for a military
front
has
full-dress.
will give the
always best (when a doublefancy
or
and
the front
or clerical waist-coat
nine
buttons and
collar
the
;
with
holes
standing-collar as shown.
Wiii^t-dokt^. six
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Shows -
manner three
Diagram
The following
addition
produce the garment desired.
Diagram
sary for a double-breasted cut-away with
Dotted
necessary
7,
and when com-
26 It
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Shows is
a
waist
cut well
down
coat
-
in
but three buttons being used, and collar.
Care must be taken
in
this waist-coat so that the length
the
same as the front
of
dressy and desirable finish
sewing on a
fine
is
for
front,
rolling-
drafting
may
the coat.
be
A
produced by
soutasche braid a
little
back of the edge on dress waist-coats, and
LINTHICUM' S SYSTEMS.
used at the present time by nearly
is
all
57
f)ii'edtioT\^ foi' i^oi'n|ii\^ ki\ It\Yei'-
the fine houses. i\e><^ oi'
Diagram front
or
27.
—A
fore-part
shows the
lines of the
Ovei'-^kdk as
drafted
originally
with the changes or additions for a double breasted
waist-coat,
fore-part cut in
Diagram
with
the
notched
Diagram
29
— Gives
collar
in
grams,
the lines of
first
descril)ing
given,
oTf
Diagram
the following measures
collar
seam down
the
and is
five
adapt-
:
30.
length from
back, 43
inches
j^oint directly
over
the point of the shoulder to the knuckles.
32 inches
half the neck, 9i
;
around the
chest,
oi^er
inches
;
the waist-coat,
and 36
inches. coat.
Select the over-sack pattern, correspond-
a
fancy style of
double-breasted waist -coat. stated
As SnowN"
By
f^kttei'i\.
from the same starting
worn with the cut-away
to be
and
one piece.
This style of waistcoat
buttons.
are
lapel
— Illustrates a single-breasted
with
waist-coat
ed
28
dkrpe-docit iDy ^t\
the
In
preceding
the original
and marked
this,
A
as
dia-
pattern
and B, then
the desired additions are "made.
36
iiig to
the size of the breast-measure,
inches,
which has been cut by the enlarged
measure
(as
already directed for
all over-
coats.)
Draw
base-liue A.
From O
to
O mark
one-tliird
of
the
L INT HI CUM' 8 S TS TEMS.
58
From O
breast-measure. sixtli
Draw line
A
;
line
B
from
the neck juiint of
Draw sweep C
on
tile
1
mark
oue-
1
at right angles with
point at O,
to
tlie
back at
(using
1
tht;
on line
and
other
A
().
as the
touch the top of the side seam
the
back
that
and
fi'ont
(keeping
the
the
point
will
botli
top
on
the
directed above)
as the
of
side
])attern
is
between X,
From
equal 1
to
to 2,
X
it,
Open
keeping
the
line C, until
the
bottom,
points above described on distance
joins
shown by
as
on the diagram.
the
at
seam and
back wliich
the
touch sweep C,
the dotted lines
tom)
f(>re-]nti't.
Adjust
O
the neck points at so
place the sack pattern in position
with the front-shoulder
pivot)
to
the breast- measure.
of
(around the bot-
the breast-measui'e.
on
line B,
mark
half
the
L IX Till CUM S S â&#x20AC;˘
Draw sweep D, using
breast-measure.
Form
the pivot.
the back, continuing the
seam of the
shoulder
shown by
F
line
Form curved
1 as
sack
as
pattern,
on the diagram.
to 5,
from 4 to
line E,
3,
cape between the notch and 3 join together,
and the remainder of the cape sews vpith the side
G,
reduc-
59
YS TEMS.
G
adapted
seam below
represents the shape of collar best to this
garment.
ing the width of the shoulder as shown at
coat buttoning to
Bring the curved line fully as far
universally worn.
4.
ward
for-
the arm-hole
in the cape-coat as
the remainder of the
admits of the
throat, as
it is
almost
\ Sleeve
Šii'edtioi)^ foi' ŠI'^ftiii^
body by the l)Y tl)e Divi^ioi]^! ^y^tetq.
making the centre back seam
coat pattern,
tlie
It
is
forward in the sack pattern.
Form
in
3.
As Shown on Diagram
31.
straight. I
Cut the back and
front,
and place the
on the paper and prepare to draft
latter
advise that the sleeve in
all
cases be
drafted in the fore-part, as already directed.
the cape.
Form
the neck gorge and front of the
cape by the pattern, as shown on the dia-
gram.
Draw
H
line
from
O
for the
back part
of cape, adding above the shoulder
fore-part about three-fourths of
as show.n at
6.
Apply
the length of cape from
tlie
O
on the
an inch,
measi;re for
to 7, thirty-two
inches less the width of the top of back,
and complete the cape.
The front
of the cape
may
be cut
to lap
and button, as shown on the diagram, or
may be
cut less full and only meet at the
when
front
tlie
coat
is
buttoned.
In order to join this coat together correctly,
have the parts from
the fore-part,
back
O
to 4,
on the
the notch on the caj^e and
to join in
one seam.
Line
H
on the
If,
however, the operator prefers to draft
separately
from
the
body,
the
it
following
diagram will give the lines necessary to a
LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS.
60
correct drafting of tlie sleeve.
or
customer stoops forward,
When
the
erect,
and
is
the measure taken from the centre of back to
many
subject, that
finely cut shoulders are
spoiled
by the shortness
which
should
of the top sleeve,
or
be raised
increased
in
the front of scye varies from the dis-
length equal to the additions in the draft
be neces-
of the fore-jiart for producing square shoul-
tance given by division E,
make
sary to
it
will
same changes
precisely the
By
ders.
and
observing
practicing
the
at 5 and the top of back, as I have directed
above suggestions, the unsightly dragging
in order to
about the shoulders caused by a short top
and
for stooping
erect forms,
secure the correct length of the back and
will be avoided.
fore-ann seam.
Measure the scye
say 16 in-
carefully,
Dii'edtioi],^ foi' !)i"ciftii]^ ^kii't foi' ches.
Draw
base line A.
From O on
to 2
mark 27
Draw
B.)
division
mark
C,
Draw
S
F
to
from 5
to
mark
12,
ponding with division J,
C
2 to
at
right
on
5,
line
breast-measure on Division E.
80,
line
From
line
From
angles with line A.
the
the figures corres-
measure
scye,
16
on
by placing O" on the tape at
corresponding with
on divisions
K
the tape at
ii
Hue
t()
fi'om 13
scye measure
Draw line C,
line 11
L,
scye,
the figures,
measure 16
by placing
on the diagram.
and place O"
F,
mark
14,
the
and
lij
O"^
Draw
on a
at right angles with line
at 13,
f)n
and mark
division
from
5,
at IH tlie
K.
and complete the remaining part
will
to
1
renuiJ-k here,
before
mark
the length of skirt
19 inches.
O
of
leaving this
with
the short arm resting on line A, and raise
arm
the long
until 12
inch from
one
Mark
in
form the skirt l)y at 3
;
on
on the short arm
is
A, as shown by the
line 2.
one inch fiom O, and
line B,
plait-line.
Form
dropping line
B
the top of the
a seam, as shown
touch the line at 4 and at 5
;
drop
the front about one inch.
Place the fore-part and side-body tion, as
at right angles with
the sleeve as previously directed. I
base line A.
From O
dotted lines at
and
5 to 13
Draw
32.
Place the corner of the square at
O.
5 on the diagram.
From
As Shown on Diagram
(shoulder measure
in posi-
shown on the diagram.
Line C at the bottom shows the pattern as drafted
for a frock-coat,
lines at 6 the coat,
complete
and the dotted
change necessary the
skirt
for a dress-
as shown.
The
L
strap at to
tli(?
the fore-part
The
may
front of skirt if
projser lapel
TXT II I CUM
be added
S
S
Gl
YS TEMS.
of a donljle-breasted frock, with the exception that the front-shoulder point should be
desired.
and
â&#x20AC;˘
collar is also given
more
This coat being worn but-
straight.
toned,
at
neck
close at the
requires
times,
all
looseness which
be
to
cut
to jirevent the unsightly
would be the
result
if
the
shoulder be cut too crooked.
Line C, at the shoulder point and top the fore-part, represent the pattern as
of
cut for the ordinary double-breasted frockcoat,
and the dotted
skirt for a military
From O
line A.
lines
the changes
5,
coat.
To draft
coat, first
draAv base-
uniform
a
for
desirable
to 1
mark
the length of
skirt.
Place the corner of the square at O, with
arm
the short the long
one
aim
and a half inches from
shown square place
i;y
is
the
the dotted lines at in
and
resting on line A,
until 12 on the short
this
position
fore-i)art,
line
raise
arm
is
A, as
While the
2.
draw
side-body,
line
and
B
lai)el
the size (allowing
in position to ascertain
one and a half inches for fullness, which, in in this diagram, tlie latter with a notch in front,
which
may
making, must be sewed in over the hip
and pressed
be omitted or nsed at skirt
pleasure.
out.)
starting on
1) oiili] e -bi'ea ^teel
frock-coat
lJi)i f orii]
As Siiowx ON Diagram The body is
B
the top of at
3,
the
drop]iing
three-eighths to half an inch at 4 and end-
Fonn
ing at O.
form
Form line
of a coat designed
cut similar in every
shown
38.
for a uni-
wav
to
that
at
skirt,
the
plait
adding
similar
side
edges,
to
a as
6.
Fniforms for
officers
in the regular ser-
vice are constant! \' undergoing
some change.
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
62
It is therefore necessary that tailors receiv-
breasted frock coat,
ing orders for this class of work be sup-
shoulder
plied with
the
on the
publication
latest
subject from the AYar Department, entitled
''Uniforrii
United
and Dress of
Anny,
Army
of
Adjutant
War Depaitment,
-
General,
U.
Washington, D.
To draft
tlie
From
As Shown ox Diagram This
garment,
Diaerram
33
is
like
cut
that
similar to
to
1,
mark
draw base
the length of skirt.
O
with
and
raise
Place the corner of the square at the short
one
on
a double-
on
line A.
S.
34.
described
skirt, first
C.
ifiiifoi'ii).
more
be
should
the preceding Diagram.
the long
^ii\gle-l3i'eat^tecl
which
point,
the front
at
straight for the reasons already given
which can be obtained by
States,''^
addressing the
tlte
except
aim arm
and
resting on line A, till
a-half
12 on the
inches
short
from
shown by the dotted
lines
the square
position,
B.
Place
is
tile
in
this
fore-i)art
at
line 2.
arm A,
is
as
While
draw
line
and side-liody
in
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
position to ascertain the size (allowing one
and
inches
a-lialf
for fnllness,
making must be sewed and carefully pressed
Form on
line
the
B
of
toj)
at
3,
For
in
by
and ending at O.
fuller details,
For
Army
The
ihclie!^
sleeve
deep,
fuller directions
finished
is
and three see United
Regulations on the subject.
starting
Form
see
the United
As Shown on Diagram
6.
The body
States
Regulations on the subject.
every
way
of
this
coat
similar to a
is
36.
drafted
in
surtout overcoat.
35.
single-breasted sack coat, cut straight
front,
neck, as is
with a cuff three buttons. States
the skirt
As Shown on Diagram
A
in
out).
side edges, as sho^\^l at
plait into
Army
which
over the hip
as represented at C.
dropping three-eighths to
half an inch at 4 t\\Q
in
63
with
five
buttons closino; to the
shown by the
cut in one
i)iece,
Draft.
and the
The back
sides slashed.
It
is
draft.
therefore suiierfluous to give the full Tlie
skirt
is
also drafted
like
the
LIN Tina UM
64
The
surtout coat.
frock or
lapel
and wide, with
quite straight
cut
is
six Inittons
'
S
S Y.S
TEMS.
represented on the overcoat, as shown on
A
the previous Diagram.
button
may be
and holes, and worked so as to button to
The
the throat.
B B
collar
is
worked
also
so as to admit of the lapel Imttoning to
the
Large
top.
at
flaps
.
hip
the
iive
inches wide and about twelve inches long to tlie size
{according buttons flap
the
at
edges in at
a cuff
five
The
6.
inches
tons across
each
the
flap,
Side
buttons.
with two buttons,
the plait,
shown
with three
waist'),
of the
half
covering
of
points of
as
sleeves are finished with
deep,
with three
each
the top of
but-
cuff.
L(ivei'y Body-doiit.
As Shown on Diagram and
The body
is
way
every
drafted in
The
skirt
of
like
37.
coat
this
a
is
frock coat.
front has six biittons, and, as a rule,
Avorn buttoned to
the neck.
may,
It
placed on the
on
sented
however,
worn with the
l^e
of the collar, as repre-
froiit
Diagram,
the
omitted
or
button
top
at
pleasure.
and
o}i'3n,
the
shown by the
collar
back,
turned
lapel
B
as
B.
iot f)raftii|g
f)n'ei5tioi]s^
A
flap four
and
a-liall'
iiiclics
about eleven inches long at partially
three buttons, flaps
and side edges,
as sliown at
with a
Tlie
6.
stra})
re.sc'Uted
on
loose at
to}),
and
tlie
covered
witli cuff"
tliive
U\\),
tlie
two
with
by
the
Ix;
buttons,
made
as rep-
Diagram, or with a cuff
and the buttons
lil^tei'by
jilact'd
as
tl(ii\l^ :ii]d foui'tl}^
of tlie fjreh^t >Ieh^^iu'e
buttons,
may
].(<it:ly'ti
and
diM'p,
As Siiowx ox DiAO. Length,
rvi
sleeve,
iuo'iies;
38. 7,
18,
2.9;
breast, 30; neck, 10.
Draw
ba.-;e
From
(.)
to
line I,
.V
A.
mark
one-eig'ith
ol'
the-
LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS.
From O
breast measure.
line
A
with line
From
mark
one-
2
to
B
C
and
at
right
3
Draw
angles
A.
breast measure.
eighth of the breast measure
at
mark
From
two-thirds 3
to 4
;
and from
4 to 5 one-eighth.
the breast measure.
fourth of
Draw
to 2,
05
of
mark
the one-
line
D, for front breast
right angles with
at right 6,
D
mark
line
C,
angles with line C. one- third
of
tlie
and
line,
line
From breast
E
4 to
mea-
LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS.
G6
and from 6
sure,
one-sixth of the
7
to
breast measure.
Draw
a
forward from 6
line
at right
F
line
From O
from 7 to
to
Form
9.
top
tlie
from 8 to 9 and one-fourth
or
above
G
line
Apply
at
from 3
back,
as
shown
to 11, raising the
back
an
inch
measure
for the
Use
seven inches.
1
the
from
O
mark
one-third of the
inches)
to
From
IB.
Form
13.
through J J
to 13,
width of
O
at the
and draw a
pivot,
sweep from the bottom of to
of
11.
back as
top of
G
three-eighths
the
back from
9
of
the
of
line
draw
breast measure, and
])ack, as
D D
line
breast
shown at
measure
12,
(6
back from 11
the
as represented on the
Diagram.
Use pivot,
Have
line
the
top
of
and draw
side-body
the
as
sweep from 13
a
to
a 14
side
seam of
A A
at 15 one- third of
the side
piece. line
the breast measure (0 inches)
seam
body through tlie
forward of
tlirough
foi-cpart
the
3,
side
from
tlie
from
K K
front seam of
Form
XXX touch
side
Sf^am
to
top
the
L, to
of
same
at 16.
the remainder of the scye, shoul-
This coat
usually worn buttoned to
is
A
straight.
therefore cut
is
two and a-half inches in
belt
worn
around
width
is
length
being adapted to the fancy of the
the
the
waist,
wearer.
A
Hood made
lar
under the
to button
a desirable appendage
is
for
col-
stormy
weather or traveling purposes.
To Dkaft Sleeve. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; First measure the scye
16
Draw
inches.
line
H
right
at
angles with line C, as represented by the
dotted
lines.
3 to 10
mark
half the scj^e meas-
ure 8 inches.
Draw
from 10
line I
back seam of the
to line
sleeve,
by
B
for the
and form
tlie
dotted
the lines.
gliowiii^
tl^e
f{elative
oi*
of
f^i'opoi'tioifate ^l)Otiltlei' foi' 14,
and the
body from a
L
AA
line
the throat, and the collar
ÂĽkWe side
L L and
from 15 to
14.
the
lines
their lengths equal.
sleeve as represented
Mark from
Form
Measure the
neck gorge, and front of garment.
der,
From
for length of the
side
and make
Form
1.
mark one-eighth
9
to
to 16.
XXX,
This will give ample width at the bottom.
angles with line E, for pitch of neck.
Draw
XXX
the i)lace
little
The student
13. fi-ont
or
through
will
do well to commit the
following Table of relative or proportionate shoulder
for
all
breast
measures
to
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
memory, and be
able
them when measurino;
to
recall
any
his customers.
of
Breast
He
67
27
26
28
24
25
18
18| 191 2Q\ 21
34
36
32
33
24
24| 25\ 26| 27
40
41
42
30
30 J
311 321 33
48
49
50
36
36? 371
f)e>^di'i|»tioi)
Diagram
35
43
30
31
37
38
39
27| 28i 29^ 45
46
47
333 341 35
of !)ik^%ir|^.
on page 11
1
44
29
213 22\ 23i
—Is
a Draft for
a body-coat by the Divisional System, for
---E
a form of good proportions, measuring 36 breast, 32
waist, 27
shoulder,
and
11 1 23
blade.
Diagram
2
a Body-coat
on page 15
— Is
a Draft for
by the Divisional System
for
a moderately stooping form, measuring 36 breast,
27 shoulder, and 12 23
32 waist,
blade.
Diagram
3
a Body-coat a
by
moderately
breast,
32
on page 17
—Is
a Draft
for
the Divisional System for
erect
form,
measuring
shoulder, and
waist, 27
11
36 23
blade.
Diagram
4 on page 20
—Is
a Draft for
a Body-sack by the Divisional System for a form of good proportions, measuring 36
-^?St'^£
breast, 32 waist, 27 will thereby
be enabled
to
readily the proportions of
decide his
more
customer,
and obtain a more correct measure.
shoulder, and
Hi
23
blade.
Diagram
5 on page 23
an Over-sack by
the
—Is
a Draft for
Divisional
System
L INT HI C
68
for a
UM
form of good proportious, measur-
ing 36 breast, 32
waist, 27
and
shoulder,
and Drafted by the Measure
11 1 23 blade,
as enlarged, 38 breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoulder,
and 12 24i blade.
Diagram
a Surtout Overcoat by tem,
form
a
for
of
25— Is
a Draft for
Divisional Sys-
tlie
good
pro]iortions,
measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder,
and
23 blade, and Drafted by 38
Hi
and
breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoulder,
12 24;L
blade.
TS TEMS.
S
a Lady's Close-fitting Jacket by the Divisional
System
7 on page 27
—Is
a Draft for
a Waist-coat by the Divisional S3'stem
form of good
27 shoulder, and
waist,
12 on page
for a
35— Is
a Draft for
form measuring 36
breast, 26 waist,
26 shoulder, and 11 22| blade.
—Is
DiAGRAJi 13 on page 35 a Small
Skirt belonging
Habit, and Drafted
Diagram
by
measure
a Body-coat
by
a Draft for the
to
26.
— Is
a Draft for
new Plumb
the
Riding
and fourths
thirds
14 on page 41
fen*
Hi
11 22^
Riding Habit by the Divisional System,
act
36 breast, 32
and
shoulder,
36
blade.
measuring
]3roportions,
form measuring
for a
breast, 26 waist, 26
of the waist
Diagram
a
S
Diagram
on page
6
'
Measurement System,
a
for
or
Ex-
form of
good proportions, measuring 36 breast and
23 blade.
Diagram
8
on page 29
32 waist.
—Is
a Draft for
Diagram
15 on page
44— Is
a Draft of
a Waist-coat by the Divisional System for
a Body-sack by the
new Plumb
or Ex-
a moderately stooping form, measuring 30 act breast,
32 waist, 27
shoulder, and
Measurement
System
for
a form of
12 23
good
measuring
proportions,
36
breast
blade.
Diagram
9
on page 30
— Is
and 32
a ^Vaist-coat Ijy the Divisional
a
moderately
breast,
form,
erect
waist, 27
32
System
mc^asuring
shouldi'r,
and
11
for
36
23
a Lady's sional
Diagram
act
10 on page 31
Reeling
Jaclvct
System, for
breast, 26 waist,
— Is by
a Draft for tiie
Divi-
a form measuring 36
26 shoulder,
and
11 22|
tlie
Measurement System, ])roportions,
32 waist {ocer to 38 breast
Diagram
tlie
a Draft for
new Plumb for
or
Ex-
a form of
measuring 36 breast and waisicoat),
and 34
and enlarged
waist.
17 on page 48
—Is
a Draft for
Front of Trousers, drawn by 36 hip and 30 waist measure.
blade.
Diagram
— Is
16 on page 46
an Over-sacik by
good
blade.
Diagram
waist.
a Draft for
11
on page 34
— Is
a Draft for
Diagram
18 on yiage 60
— Is
a complete
LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS.
Draft for Trousers, drawn by 30 hip and
— Is
19 on page 51
of Trousers
a
foi'
man, meas-
coi'pulent
20 on page 53
Diagram
hi]i
21
oa
— Is
a Fancy
— Is
Diagram
a complete
and 30 waist measure. i)age 54
a Draft for fi-om
— Shows
81 on page 59
Draft a Sleeve
)iy
how
to
the Divisional System,
separate from the fore-j^art.
See rcmarlcs
in connection wltJi the Diagram.
—Is
a Draft for
Diagram
32 on page 61
—Is
a Draft for
a Dress Coat Skirt, Lapel and Collar.
the Systems in this work.
22 pn page 54
— Is
30 on page 58
an Inverness or Cape Coat, formed
a Frock Coat Skirt, adapted to either of
Diagram
57
an Over-sack pattern.
Draft of Riding and Close-fitting Trousers,
drawn by 3G
Diagram
a full Draft
uring 45 seat and 44 waist measure.
Diagram
page
29 on
Double-breasted Waist-coat.
30 waist nieasiin\
Diagram
Diagram
69
Diagram
— Is
— Is
33 on page 62
a Di-aft for
a Draft for
a double-breasted Uniform Coat. a Morning or Cut-away Skirt, adapted to
Diagram
34 on page 62
—
a draft for
is
either of the Sj'Stems in this work.
Diagram
23 on page 55
three styles of breasted,
a Single-breasted Uniform Coat.
— Is
a Draft for
Cut-away Coats.
Double-
Cut-away.
Diagram
24 on page 5G
— Is
a Doulile-
Diagram
25
Diagram
56— Is
on page
a Military
or Clerical Waist-coat with standing collar. 26 on page 56
Waist-coat with rolling
Diagram
27 on page
28
—Is
a Full-dress
collar.
breasted Waist-coat with
Diagram
—Is a
Draft for
36 on page 63
—Is
a Draft for
—Is
a Draft for
57— Is lajiel
37 on page 64
a Single-breasted Livery Coat.
cut separate.
Diagram
on page 63
a Livery Driving Coat.
breasted Waist-coat, with lapel and collar
Diagram
35
a Blouse or Undress Uniform.
and two-button
single-breasted,
Diagram
Diagram
38 on page 65
a Lady's Ulster, by of
tile
a Double-
Diagram
on page 57— Is a
Single-
breasted Waist-coat with notched collar.
Entered according to Act of Congress, In the year
I3T6,
by
Diagram view of
W.
thirds
a Draft for
and
fourths
breast measure. 39 ou page 39
Skirt of Riding
cut on.
— Is
40 on
figure
ures are taken
—Is
a Draft for
Habit.
page 67
— Is
a
profile
showing
how
the
meas-
the
new
Plumb
for
Exact Measurement System.
O. LixTnlcrsi. In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
or