Dubarry shortcuts to sewing success 1944 by David Mannock

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After usrrlq Dr_r Вогrу lJoltcгlr,, {tlt уесlr5 ough t to knowI l llcve Llsed tlresc Llrtllt,rrls consistently fоr my own спd mу chlldrerl's cLtlllrtls Тhеу оrе so youthfr-rl so smоrt, so up-to tllc llltlпletlt in sýle correctness l find them eosy lo Iill]clw, orld the inStruc1lons с|еоr cnd (ol lcISe Ill(,y l)I(,occrtrole ond eosy to wоrk with-which shortcr rs rrly sc,wrllg time. Моrеочеr, thеrе is such с splerlc]rr1 ,,vrritl vortety of styles to choose from in the Du lJclrry Cotolog,

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IHE Hows AND WHYS оF c.ooD DBI]SSMAKING... , TIIINGý то KNoW АвоUт EABBIсS. . . . ... , , . ,. , . . .. з ARMNGING YoUл ýЕ.\лIING совNЕп. .. . , . , . . ... . . . PДDDED EOUIPMENT a

IдкING AND nEcoRDING MEASUREMEМтS,,.......

ADJUSTING

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рАттЕRN.

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аUгг!дS AND гLoUNcEs ,... .....,................3ý _цЕмý fоа MANY PURPoSES. ..................,...зб BINDlNG

гACINGS " " , . . , . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . з9 " солNЕRs 40 MAKING PIACKETS 4l

....

гIтгING SNUSUд! FIGUвЕý. .. . . . .. , . . . . . . . ....,.. . в LдYING оtл твЕ рАттЕвN......,........,.....,.. 12

юIмЕпs оN CUTTING..................,...,,...,

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APPLYING SLIDE ГАSТЕNЕЯS. 42 MENDING тАрЕ APPIIED wml AN I8oN...........45 DЕIАIБ ABoUT ýlEEvEsпЕIUчЕNдтING YoU! wдвDRовЕ.,.., ....

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тмNSгЕппING рАттЕRN мдвкINGS............,., NEEDIE AND TIIREAD GUIDE...:.... GЕГПNG TIIE MOST OUT ОГ YOUR

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HAND,ýEWING

IYPES ОГ SЕДМS AND THEin USES гUскS DдRтs

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.33

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MANAGING GАТЕЕRS AND SяIBBING....,...,,....3a

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тнЕ IмроRтдNт NEсKLINE. .. .. , . . . . . . .54 PoCKETý-WELT, г!др, BoUND дND рдтсн.......56 BnдID дND отвЕR TRIMMINGS,,,............,,...58 FINIýHING

А GлвмЕNт...

.,,.,,.22

-..,...

BU"гIoNS, WEIGH]s AND EASTENINсS .........,..,в мдкING Ех!ЕRт BUTIoNHo!Eý, . . . . . . ... . . . . . . . . . _5о гдввIс гдSтЕNINGS .. . . . . . . .. . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ý2 8ELTS , - , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . .

кNотs дND EдSTENiNG STITсHES,, -........-..,,,la ffIGIlT wдY то P]N дND вдsтЕ ,........... ls l9

aBECKING TIiE гiт оF PBEýSING coBBEcTLY

...,..........з8

LдсЕ...........................,..59 tlдND i]EMSTлCHiNG .....................,...,..,6о, DЕсюмтIvЕ DггдILS ....,..... j.............,....6l EMBBoIDERy AND отнж гltч" ноцоrо"i ......uz SuccESsгUL содт_мдкING .....................,.64 WoBKINq Wпн,гчв .........,....,....:......,.. -"^ INDEK,,.....................................,.....,бб WoBKING WITE

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оF GOOD DRESSMAKlNG a

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GOOD DRESýMAaING is q mctter oI k!owfurs how qnd stickins to q {ow simple гцIе9. If you рIсrп every step you will {1nd йot уоr:r gсtгmqпt goes tоgейег like mogic . . . cvoldins Йе discppointments which so оttgп теsu]t Ьоm uninJoгmed "shогt cuts." The meйods йоt skilied dTessmqkors uso сге ach]olly йе suTest, eosiest ond quickgst ones. They оге the ones й<rt Dч Всгr,]r ехperts bтins to уоч in this book-presented tn о simplШed mоппеL ýо йе voliost novlco ссгrr follow йеm. Wiй Du Всrтгу Pottems crrrd the Dч Всггу Sewing Book, plils о llttla cctтe, cmyone ссгr mqke clothes thct wtll Iook sTncгt ctnd wеогqЬlе. DU ВДППY РДТТЕRNS bTinq уоч йg bвst oI foshion, регfесt ýtylins, pedect cut, curd fi:lly detoiled ýewing i]хstгцсtiопs. I1 you

YOU АПЕ Д ВЕGIП Е& wlih llftIo ог по knowlodse ol sewlng, lot йэ fiпt ссrmепt you 'тnqke Ь а slmplo one. Rсihеr йсrr cttempt q феss Tiqht сrwcy, moke с ltttlэ сtргоп. It will Ь q prqctlce gсгmапt, but lt wlll Smely tum out to Ье uýeful crnd atiroctlvo. пIЕ вдsIс ýTEPS пЕ BEGп{IiIEB NEEDý то UýЕ г{ мдац{с дN лвоt{. д8 DESCШBED BELOW, АПЕ I\ЛДШЕD WТПI Д

SТДП 1ТНПОUGНОIП ПlВ EOOL On уочr Ilrвt sоwlпЕ vantulg, lollow tHB wогklпg рlсrr:

Reod

йэ

stcmad crtlcles

ln youT Du

Волгу Sеwtлq Book" 2. Solect о Du Всrгrу Pottem Iог crrr срюп. А ЬЪ Býle, tlrnmed wiф rick-Tock, is orr gхсэllепt вtсrtоr; crrd i}r.ts working plcrrr ls

Ьозеd оп tL tr Сhоово q Есу pgrcclo {оr the fcйTtc, поllпg йо ycrdcqe suggeвled on your рсЬ t9m envolope. Percole is с ftm, еqsllY hondled mоtогlсl, cEId qцitе tnexpensivo, AlleT buylng йЕ lсфriс, рчтсhсsэ the no tlons llsi€d on й€ pcttem envelope, сrпd йо rtсk-rqсk Ьrqld {ог trlmmins. |. дввэmЫе уочr Bewinq equipment, (Ь Рqgе 4 lor йо'thlпgs you wlll пеоФ. ý. Rеqlс thrочgh tho tnstructions given lл йо Du Воrry Ргlmэт whic}r qccompqnlos уочr Du Вотгу ktam. 8. McrTk йе lcyout lог уощ widй oI mс_ ta ol clvon tn the Du Всгr,:r Рrimoт. ]-сrу out Йо potlom, с1rt out уочr gcEmgnt clnd tтсsrrslor йо mоrk!пgв Ьm the рсгttеm, те{егrtп+ io pogeB 12, l3 cctd 14 ln this book. Rчп q Ьgllпс thrэоd down йе сёпtеr fгопt о[ йg gqrmепt; crrd dоwп йе centeT bqck, leqve lt ln untll согmопt Ь finished. 7. Всsiе lha q(гmепt iоgеthоr, Iollowinя йо Du Вогry Рrlmет lпвtsчсtlопs, stop Ьу stap. Soo pogeB 18 cnd 19 JoT inlormotion

геоd йе Ргimет tfuоччh (it соmез wiй уоlл pottom), crrrd Jollow it ýtop Ьу ýtep, уоч drо bound to tum out q gcrTmont of which you ссгrr Ье pToud. Тhе Dч Воry Sewi:rq Book iý extrq iпýlдспсе. RеmэmЬт thct tho dllIeIenc€ beМoen thot "home-mqde" look cnd йе "сочtчгlет" look ts cvoided Ьу heeding ф9 suggestions givgn ln this book sчсh ql z-- ссЕе i]1 tuming ф9 hеm ог tocking down q Iqciлg, от ечеп sчсh q detoil os sewing оп buttons not too tightly. Eoch of Йese polnts сщd sсогеs о{ othorý qге exploinвd to уоч сlе<гIу tn your Dч Всrrry

Sewins book. The сlойаs you moko the Du Всrп,у wcy wШ hove йоt longed-foT professioncl look.

CBOOSE YOIП DU ВДRlY РДТТЕПШ ПRST. Маkjлq а рIqп, qottiлq everyйing

Teody ЬelorB you Ьegin to work on q gсгmепt

iS йе most impo qnt pcгt of mcrkins уочr оwп сlоihеs . . . successIully. Гiтgt, buy уdщ Du Всrrrу pcrttem. Ьосqчýе lt gives фа key to everyйing else, choosing lгоm the sсоrеs of {oshion-Tisht designs foT ечеrу occcsion wtdch qrе shown iтt йе Du Всгr,у cotologue. Br]y yor:T pottem Ьу bust mеоsrде. Wiй the pcttem qs q bqsis, sесчге qll йе йiпgs needed to moke йе Itnished gогmопt lobTic, йе notions. tho slide fosteneT, -йе etc. See lhе pcttem envelope loT sugges-

оп Ьstlлs qnd Ьвtlлg Bfltchgs. Mqko dоrts ot lldo ol ЬЬ, ll йву сrо iлdicqtod lп the pottem. боо Pcse 33). Тhеsэ should Ь mоdэ on йе rerrlns mqсhьхе. (See Poqo 16). Gqthег whоrc tndlcqlэd. Sээ "Gсйагtпs ct Secmline", ond "Spoclng GоtЬга," Pqge 34. Mqka sеоm qs indlcclod оп йЕ pqttem. (Гог о lopped soom, 8(в Poqo 28). I{ йо сртоп ls to Ь hоmmэd ot йэ Ьottom. see Pqge 36 crrd йо pccos lollowtng lоr mейоds oI mqkinq hemB. Fоr hcrd-hemminq stitches, sое Pogo 24. lvVhen you сrrо Teody to lintsh the odsэ wiЪ

tlons.

Check оп your stock ot пеоdlеs mrd pfurs cnd ойеr stcple supplies. (See Pose 4). нсryо buttons cgrd bucklgs сочеrеd, Ц уоч сrге goins to hсче ttds dопэ ot q shор. When oll thэsе supplies спе ossemb}ed, уоч crTe reqdy to beqin the moklns oI с smсгt new odфtion to уочл wodTobe. Аs йе fiTst working Step, геоd ctll t}цочsh tho Du Вогrу Primgr, йg iлýtluction shoet Йсrt occompcrties йо pсtttem. Тhеп so mепllу otreod, теfогтiпg o{ten to уочr Du Вqrу Sewinq Book,

rick-гack, вее Pcse 58. 8. Give youT сргоп с {lncl ргеsslпq, Фld wеФ tt W,ith pTide. It wlll hcvo shоwп you hоw eosy it is to s€w well. It will hcvo stФted you on Йе gсrу qdvontmo о{ mclklnq уочI own clothos. 2

KNOW ABOUT _ Youl Dч Вогry Pqttem envelope sivвs lull detoils obout йе lensй of moteliol to buy. Fог speciol informotion оп ploids ond опе-wсrу mоtегiqls, see рqgе t3. Always tesi Ъ sсIqр of youT fоЬгiс lor wcshing cгrd pтesýing qtrqlitieý befoTe you begln to wЬгk оп it.

СоТТоN:

cotton mcrteliols woven of }ong-fibTe cotton (тё thё most dtцсЬIq, cвrd duTcbilily is incTeosed Ьу mercelИсгtion. Purchose fqstcoloI cottons, оý ýotting соlоrs qt hоmе is ToTely successIul. Mony cottons todcry сrrе рге-shrчпk. Should you choose one whiсh is not, Ьчу two от thTee extTq inches рет усrd, qпd shTink the mq)eTiol Ь Iore usiтlg. То shгiпk cottons: Fold goods ord йоточчhIу sook in cold wсtог fоr sечеrql hочгs. Sgчоеzе wqtег out, ond Toll fqЬгtс in сr TuTkish towel fог с lew minutes. While siill Iolded, hcrrg fobTic очеr с clothesline until qlmost drу. PresB on wтong side, without q рrcss

сlой.

WOOL: All-wool fсЬгiсs lnclude worsteds

crnd wооlёпs. In wоБь

ods the уqm is combеd Фld tiqhtly twisted, qiving odded duTobiliý. ГqshiопqЫе ГqЬтiсs iпсlцdе mqny weqves which ore о{ wool combined with ойеI tёxtiles, sчсh qs rоуоп. cotton оI silk. Consu]t Йе stоге wheTe йеу wеrе Ьочsht os to рге-shгiтrkiпs ond сqте. All-wool mcгteriols should Ье sponged bfoTe they ое used. This iý q service which mспу stores оlfег, оI you mqу hqчо q tqilor do it. If уоч mчýt sропgе tho fqbrlc ot hоmо, clip йе selvedgs edses ond l.fy the fobHc flсrt in о singlo йicknoss on с lcгge tqьIе. wTins о sheei out ol cold woter qnd lсry it on the wool moteIiql, йеп Toll thеm toqeйeT qnd Iet them rеmqiп ovgl niqht. As you unToll the woolen, ртёss it gently wiй q mоdегоlеlу hot ton, thгочgh о pTess cloth, uлtil it iý dry. дlwсуs use с dcrTTrp рIеýs cloth on wool"rrs.

sIL8l

puTedye silks сrе most dеsiтоые for qorments wbich qге woshed lгеqчепtlу.' Sоmе silks ато weighted foT odded Tichness. sрчл silk is mode Irоm shогt fйгеs ccod cleqn silk wqste which hos Ьееп combed cmd spun ]iko cotton. In the Ьчmiпs test, Dчrе Silk dорвФS to mёlt, fогmiпq ýny ЬчЬЫеs, which сце eqsily Jгчshеd, qnd giving ofI о smell similcг to bumils hoif. Weishted Silk, when Ьчmod, Iесгчеs qп osh in йе огisiпоI [огm oI йе fфте. Mbst silks should Ь ргеssеd wiihout moisturc. Uзе о mоdегоtе ton on йе wTong sidе.

ЦNЕN: Long, smooй libres moke

the most dчтсЫе linen fqbTics. то test lог linen, ploce q wet IingeT on йе wгопg side of {оЬгiс. If йе moistuTo immediqtely shows ihrочgh. the lobric is linen. whоп йе linen you buy is not рrе-shгцп}, shTtnk Ьу йо mейоd describod IоI cotton. ITon on riqht side wiй с hot iTon, whilе wet.

ВАYоN; This becutiful synйetic

textil9 соmеý iл weishts cE}d wесrчеs fоr every lmqgiлqЬlе чsе, mqny of which стrе woshoble. SEons ond dmoble when dry, Tcyon lоsеS ýоmе oI its ýtlengй when wet, Фld ýо should Ье woshed wlф сqrе. It геgqiпý oll its Stlensй when dгу qsоiл. Ргеss пеw гсгуоп fobrics wiй q compqrqtively сбоI lrоп, on йе wгопg side, using little oI no moish.ue. дft". цloihins, most Iсгуопs shоц]d Ь qёпtlу Stretchgd to ýhсре whilo sliqhtЙ domp, йоп ргеssоd. АIwсгуs чsе с рrеss сIой о; ccetqteý..

ллJtса

опе of йе newest mon-mqde {ibers is q miTqcle of wсгmй сrпd velsqtility. Дйочsh it iS hФd 1о Ьеliочg it, whеп уоч exqmrn9 йе so{t, счгIУ fфегs so sjmilcг to woo[, crтqlac is mode trоm осгt oI йе billions of por.rnds of suTplus skjm milk ccrnuolly produ."j i" ИЪ United Stoies milk which wqs hеrеtоfоте lсrеЬý wosted. Like wooi, огоlос is d plotein fibeT, ord is dyed сгrd Бcrrdled оlmоst

exoctly like wool in the mqking oI {оЬгiсs. FqbTicS contoininq сгqIос should Ь siven фе sсrrпе ссге qs woolens, rтhiв iDlomdtion оп Bcyon

ф. фDз.D.ч. о' оDjлlф ЬоФ з

Фоst

ЕllоЪЬ .оцм1

R SEWING N vENIENcE

You , ill {ind thct yorr соп s€w mчсh mо!е qulckiI onc s}i]{!iiy v/hen you hdче о Ieoson

о]'- l, о, о' I,iJ ,,_ г,,15, согпе. wilh о ]о.9о lob)o lor cultinq, о сh-"Sl of c,ow-l ,L,'р,qlлi,,or, Mýke .ооm lor уоuг ]lonjnl] boord, ioo, cs it should olwoys Ь.] гаоdу lol ргеýs]п.J os уоч Sew, Plcce youl se,Minq mo.hine Ьёlоrе о wlndow, bDl hove о liqht on ]1 lor night !rогk, ДlSо оггопqе о dгор liqht очег :hе cutlinq tdЫе ]n 1hё 1]пе о1 smо]] equlРment, lhe lо]]оlтiлq items ore mos1

sнЕдRs wjlh о njne.jnch ыосе, Also

smоILег

PINKING sНЕДПs {inisb SеаmS oS you cut out о NEEDIES, Ьоlh bond and посhiпэ, See poqe 15. THBEAD Sеё pdqe 15 lог thе kind best suiled

PINS апd PIt{ cUsHIoN. U"e dl "smok,l pils aS they dо nol mo! fob.:c. А THIMBLE incleoses youl speed. Lеогп 1о use il. ТДРЕ МЕДsuRЕ, 60 iпсhёs long ond molked оп

sLErvE ВОДRD ls о greol help. Also lry to includo d ldilot s .usllbn d,]s.jibed Ьбlоw, PRESS cloтHs Oilo heovy woiqЫ, ond one о1 liqЫ.

YДПDSТIСК ond 6-jпсh ru]ег оге hопСу, EMERY вдс {оr shоrр-.пiпq опd smoolhinq

wciq]ll ..]11.п, (Sp.l jol ргосоssеd clo1hý con Ье рurсhоsеф. Д lri :!l,.i]I dцл)р,,lDл,] lhc с]оlh is needed, ond о comel's )l,:jl llUjl) ],! dal]Ll]L]ning seoms is he]p{ul,

TAILOB'S СНДLК is indispensible lог mогkjпq, ТRДСING WHEEL wi]] пdгk lhгоuqh sevelol

ВОN ДND IRoNING ВОДRD aIe oI first

wmЕ vELvET ВОДЯD lot nIessinq nop mоtёгiоls. Д LABGE TABIE fоr clllinq, оr d ptece of beoveт Ьобrd 54 х 54 nrL]Ir"s 1,] plo.,c оYоI о smoll tоые,

import.

PADDED EQUlPMENT

PдDDING

DRESS

FоВМ

Choose

ооо

fоrпl one size SmоllеI thon уощ bust mеqsuгеmепl,

Moke youTself о snug-fitting princess

dTess

lTom WASHED muslin to sегче os о new covtj, exqctly уоur size ond shope. MoTk the woistline on it, ciip inlo curyed seoms, ond pTess, Pod thе foTm with coiton оr

ScTqps, filling oui thе new сочеI lo

coTIespond io уоuI

meaSuTements, Turn 1оrчет edge undeT {огm qnd

sесulе with thцmь

tocks, оr

{(Iýten

soTment Wilh cloth tobs ot seoms.

PдDDING InoN_

мл(Е д sLEEvE cusнIo}l гоR

PRESSING tJэо sl.,,vl, ,)lrll!{п of рlор.г slze, mcke о ]enqlh a,is. lI!k 1,1,1ko Illll5lin gleove Ьу thiý, sliichinq

s,Irj]l ,l,. I,, lhоп lll]nllod on poilern, stufl .lIslin:it,,v,. lItлlly wil1l wdddjnq ог sсгорs, .]v.T

1,1),I

l W]lh

п1,1r]lп

ING BoARD _

BooTd should Ье thickly pod ded, smооth qnd soft. O]d Tuтkish iowels mоkе excellent poddinч. Muslin coveT shоцId Ье slогсh-fтее qnd rеmovqble for Iqцп-

cering. pqddinq on

о sleeve boqTd shouid Ье thick ,lnd hove точпdеd edqes.

мАкЕ д тдILоR,S счSнIоN -(то PRESý SHAPED РоRТIоNS оЕ GдRмЕNт} - cut twо ol mus]iп 12 ]псhеý lonq- Stjtch

togelher; ]есчб end орап, Slufi with wqdding оr ýсrорg unlil cushion is thick ond voтy flrm. wЪlр open ovo16

А TIME SAVER

Du BoTIy poiteans оrе mode {оr ihе ovelqge figuTe, qccoTding to meosuгements Set Ьу ihе United Stoteý Government BuTeou о{ Stondordý- However, lhе 1oI1 or shоIt gols, oI those of in between sjzes, should moke о few pottern odjustments. Ву dоiпч this, Iother thon rippinq ond chqnqing the gorment, time ond епеrqу ole soved, Соmроrе youT mеqsulеmепts with the choTt Ьёlо\/f,

RECORD YOUR MEASUREMENTS BUST*not ioo snuq, огоuпd

wДISТ

snuq, dround

поtuгоl woiillin.,ё. HIP- obout 7" Lе]оW поturcl wojsIline,

NЕск oround

LENGTH ОF SHOULDERneckline lo 1jp 'гоm SLEEVE- Оuiег Lenqth wilh olm bent

Sl.uldег ijp to ёlЬоw

bdse.

BLoUSE сENTER гRоNI_ Ьоsё oJ ne.k t. ,Mcist. SKIRT СЁNТЕR ГRОNТ-

TOTAL PlNISF]ED LENGTH,

ТОТДL ГINISHED LENGTH-

slЕЕvЕ-]ппег

wdis] t.

h:,m]]пF

Lenqth wlth orm slгоiqh1

BLOUSE СЕNТЕR ВАСКbos.-6 oI ne.k ]о w.rist

SKIRI CENTER ВАСК_ wdist to ir..m]iпё тотдL гINISHED IENGTHWIDTH ОF CHEST

с1 uidesl port, WIDTH AcRoSS вАск_

'SсALE оF м

elbow lo wгjsi, TOTAL гIN]SHED LENGTII-

AROUND UPPEB ДRМ

ДRОUND WRIST

EASU REM ENT_::,""1"1J.1:,;,, cHlI-Dпl:N AND GIRLS

'Соmроге yorrT mеоsuлеmentý with thоsе oI the tissцe pattern. I{ уоu meosuTe the pqttem ilot, теmеmЬет thqt 1hеIе is сп o]lowonce fоI eose ot mony points, Even in q

лu{

, , , , , , , , , , , , , . . . , , . , з2 ý'ai9l , , , . , , , , . . . , , . , , 26 liip Bi(k Lcngtb,,,,,,,,,,,,-t3 .

3, ]о :х] ,l0 ,l]: lt 23 з0 з2 3, з0 33 :l; J9 л l:J ,ll; l;l; 131! ,1,1 ll'l 45 $r; 16 ll]] зl, :]l 35 llб зз lл5. ]6 2, 23 2q з0 32 Iпi, rl,! лl1 ll]].; r: $1! ,!,1 hr

snug,fitting gorment theTe

is q smo]l q]jowqnce fоr body-movement, Inches оrе olten odded also to develop о ýtyle point, то qive q definite ideo of the Iit ond style, olwoys pin pottern togetheI qnd tгу lt on befoTe qlteIins it,

lб

сЬ.{,,.,,,,,.-,,,,. Nп.I

. . , ,. . . , , ,. . , , ,.

З0 ] 2 -L,j

з2 3,1 36 33 l0 4? l, и rзъ 11 l,|1/: l5 l5r4 Iб lбц, 17

PATTERN ALTERATIONS

ъ з"lr

qnd hеm ond sргеоd hqlf thе qmount needed, pinninq to рqреL Add офег holl qt hemline. lb. то SновтЕN BLOUSE, SE|IRT. Nlake tucký stTqight (Iсrоss pottem qs shоwп. On the skt , take up holf йэ neceBscrTy оmоцпt in йо tuck, toke off оthег hс:ll

lсr

Тгу on уоur pqttem, then look up youT odjr]stmeni needs сrпd follow dircctions c(1re, fully. FiguTe obove shows the рrореI plqceý to moke fucks fоr shoTtening, от sloshes {оI lengthening q gqrmепt, lo. То LENGTHEN,BLOUýE, SEIRT. Slqsh Ьlоцsе pсrtteтn q lew inches obove waistline ond spTeod qmount neceýSqry. Pin to рореI. Slosh skiTt pqiteIn midwoy Ыwееп woiýt

qt hemline. 2с. То LENGTHEN SlДЕVЕ: * slcsh qсIоss pqltern qЬоче ond below йе elbow

mqrklngs (srncll a a ретfогоtiопs). SpTecd necossqry оmоцпt qnd pin to рqреr to hold positton.

2ь. то ýноRтЕN

SLЕЕVЕз

tuck ocToss pqttem qbovo

e]bow,

о -ondmoke below

__---,,

з.

АLтЕRING тпоUSЕRS. SLACKý:-To shoIten, mqkе tucks qсrоss p(Itiem qbove the сгоtсh ctTrd ot ihe knee. То lengthen, slosh ocToss ot these points; spTeod necessory оmочлt qnd рiп to рореI, sqmе qs Iq. 4. сIRсULда SKIRTS:-To shoTten, cut ofI deýircd qйount qt loweT edge. Slosh skiтt(Isshоwп. Pin oTiqinql hеm очет loweT edge, spTecdins slqsh to fit, Retoin oflgincl woist m9(Isurе.

То lengthen, qdd nocgssqry qmount qi hemline. 5. соLLдпS-и neckling is chonged, qdjusl со]lог to шсtсh. SIqýh to опIqгsе. Tcke а tцсk to Ieducg. 6. FоR VEBY THIN ДRМS: -Tcke tucks in sieeve poitem frоm огmhоlе to bottom. Add to отmhоlе о{ ЬIочsе йе qmочлt token up in Sle€vo.

PATTERN ALTERATlONS

S"il

)

,a l

о о

т I

a a

l I

?ь

аа

гоR rдRGЕ wдISтlINЕ .aND LДПGЕ HlPs, Sloýb polteln {гоm Ьепllпе o]nost to сгпhоlе. Sргеаd

песеssоrу omountond pin to рореr,

2. гоR

LдRGЕ HIPS дND Nов. lttдI wдIsтlINЕ. (о) Add needed cmount ol hipling. keepinq thot

amount ечап lo hеm. Торег {ioEl hlpllne to поthiпq ot irojs]lino, Ог Ф) ýlosh роllегп fгоm hemline

Spleod лесеssdrу omcunl di hip]jne ond tope, to nothinq о1 wdistline, Рiп to рарег. 1о wdiý1.

3. гоR LдлGЕ дпм-(о}-Рql tern shou]d measure obout Iy," mо.е thоп оrп-t" below оrmрil.

S]оýh lh:ouqh cenier, lhе lenqth oI slеече рdtiегп. Sргеоd пёеdеd

опочпt ot ]ор ond qгоdrrоtе nothinq ot wris(,

to (Ь,) slоSh ]hгч

сепlег, ]hе ]епqlh о' s]eeve pollern, Sргёоd пёеdеd omount be]ow оrп. hc]e ond qroduote 1о nothinq oi Бhоч]dег ]jne ond wгist, Fоrm dolls 1о l]olteп роllеrп, Rеýtоrе culve ot 1ор oI рсltегп Ьу oddinq some оmоuпt os dolts tokё-up, (с,) Дdjust ormhole to I]t оllегеd s]eeve роllеlп Ьу cutlinq dеерег lhе some om.unt os you o.id 1о sleev6, see pcqe 2l.

Tl Е I

{, ЕоR LдRGЕ двDомЕN

{о.)

Iп с опе.рlбсо dlеss noke enouqh dогiý ol sldoýeoп. jчБiсьоче woisl Iine. to ollow side s€ап to honq зtоlght. Add песеssогу omount

qt boitoll oI skirl, фJ Jп о

tlл,о_

рiесб gоImбпt odd holl the сmочпt песезSqгу ot 1rопt woistline ond

hclf ot с€пiег lront о1 boilcm of ýkltl (tлdiсоlбd Ьу Ьгоkеп tinos). S. ГОП LДRGЕ HIPS IN ВДСК.

Соmроr€ pottern with your mеаý_ i]геmепls. S]osh bdck роltегп опе ýide of с€пiеr. А lo В, Slоsh por lегп ot hjpline. С to D, sргвоd песевýсгу omount опd p]n io рс-

рег, Ечбп up lowe! edge о5 shown. on skiгt_tIопt toke oll о

oi wolst]ine ond odd о litIte dt sidб seom, qгGdчоt]пq to no_ 1]]i]6

6. lг sкRт

HIKES UP SLIGHTLY IN гвоNт. Roise сепtег bock until side s€оm honqs siloight.

HOW ТО FIT ТНЕ PATTERN то EIGHT ?/,rrД'/ Тq,r*rJ

WHEN SHoULDER PдDs АRЕ то вЕ USED -do уоuг Iitting over the pods, IF ТОР ОF PATTERN ARN4HOLE EXTENDS BEYOND OUTER POINT ОF SHOULDER:

I \]/

Shou]dels \l/bich

оте пqтrоw in ргороItion to the bust mеоs-

uIе couse the pqttem to орреоI os shоwп, whеп tгied on, То

coпect

йе fit,

qltel

potteTn os shown in 2.

Siosh into potteIn огmhоlе 1 inch fгоm

outel edge, cls shоwп. Тhеп s]qsh in q slonting line to the shouldeT. Pin the lоrgет Section oI the роtiеIп

to Stiff popel.

3. Swlnq thе

отm-

ho]e inword os much

os needed,

Icpping

the pottern ot the iop, pivoting frоm

cnd

the сотпет indicoted

Ьу огтоw. Pin

chonqe in ploce.

the

4. Bock ol pott-^m shоuld Ье sloshed

and lopped the some qmount qý ihе frопt. оп both the bock qnd

the flont of

potteTn even up the shouldeT

os indicoted.

IF ТОР ОГ РДТТЕRN ДRМНОLЕ RECEDES ГПОМ ОUТЕП POINT ОГ

SHOIIIDE'R:

7,ý? ,$7 i-( ^J

ShouldeTs whiсh оте Ьгооd in рторот-

tion to the bust meos-

uTe

will couse

ihе

potteIn to орреот oS shown, if сепtеr line

о{ pottern is held

IiImlу ln position.

Slosh into patteTn qтmhоlе I iпсh iтоm оutеI edge, qs shown.

Тhеп s]osh in о slcrntinq l]ne to the shouldеr. Рiп the loTgel Section of the potteTn to ýtiff popel.

3. Swins the hole

оrпг outwoTd os

muсh os needed,

spleqding the роtlеrп ot th,- top, ond pivoting frоm coTneT indiccrted Ьу сrгrоw, Pin йе сhопqrе irr ploce.

4. Bock of рqttеrп shоцld Ье slqshed

ond sргеоd the some оmоuпt os thе irопt. on both bock ond flont о{ pottern, ечеп up tlre shouldeT os jndicoted in sketch.

FlTTlNG

Т,7о,*О

IГ WnINKLES PULL ГПОМ TlP ОГ SHOULDEn TOWAnD CENTER FRОNТ ОF РДТТЕRN:

,{л

ShouldeTs whiсh оlе unusuolly squoTe wiII cause thе pottem to орреqI qs shown when it is tTied on

qnd the centeT ITont line is held stroight, AlteI qý in 2.

-\=

Add enouqh рор-

ет to the

shouldeг

seom edges of йе patlern to eose the

отmhоlе stгоiп. Тhеп Ьцild the potteln up with рореr uпсjеr thе qrm oS illuStloted in з.

IF ДRМНОLЕ GДРЕS NЕАR ТОР ДND

l. Unusuqily

slop-

ing shouldeTs wiIl сqчsе the pqtteTn to

l t

oppeoI os

Shown,

when it is pinned toqethel опС tdec on. PoileTn mоY Ье eqýi, Iy odjLrsted to Iit,

2. Pin q

shcrl I ow

doTt below thе shoul-

deT Iiпе, topering it iowqId 1hе neck. Cut t}re стmhоlе s)iчhtlу

dеерег unrleT thе отm 1{ thе dolt mqkes, thё

оImhо]е too iiqhl,

3. Note 1hot

bulidinq the

Ьу

potteTn

up undeT the qтm qs well os ot the shочldеr seom, the огmhо]е

hos not been mode loTgeT. (FTont

tеrп is shоwd.

pot

4. AItered bock,

showing оrmhоlе size unchonqed. I1 it is neceýsqly to en]qTqre о гmh о 1е, odjuSt

s]eeve potteTn

motch, os shown on Pqse 7, sketch Зо,

WEINKLES RUN ТОWДRD ТНЕ NECK:

Showing йе Iront

of pqttern with

the

ond

thе

shoulder line qdjusted for о slорiпч

shouldeT,

отmhоlе mode deep еI so thot its size is 1hе some

be{oIe.

Bock odjuslments mqde tbe some qs those in the {rопt. I{ crTmhole is not mode deeper, toke up smol1 qmount in sleeve pqiteTn, os for q lhin

оrm, See poge

ТЦ,r-

FlTTlNG

IГ ГRОNТ ОГ BLOUSE PULLS UP ДТ ТНЕ СЕNТЕR ОЕ TIiE WAISTLINE:

-ii--..

I. А

hlqh bust wii]

cquse ihe potteIn froni to рull uр os

shown, qnd ihis mоу Ье occentuqted Ьу о

1ong {Tont woistline.

То cdjust, see

Rерiп the uпdегqтm doTls, odding

Unpin the uпdеrотm seom ond doTts,

one qt thе end о{ the

slоSh ihе front Stroight

qcToss ot ihе busь line, ihen sргеоd thе slqsh, pinninq poper under it-

slosh. Тhis extIq чпdетqтm dqTi qllows foT the ехtго точпdneSS of this liqure.

Pottem iS Shown

wiй odded

front

lenqth crnd new dссrt. I{ thеге is о shoulder doTt, the odded undегогm dcTt will Ь needed just йе sqma.

IF FRОNТ ОГ BLOUSE DIPS ДТ ТНЕ CENTER ОF ТНЕ Ц/AISTIJNE:

l, А

low, Tother flct

bust wili couse the роttегп to do this, ond the dlppinq will Ье qccentuoted Ьу q ýhoTt wqistline. СоIтёсt Jit

os in

2-з.

Unpin йе чпdегqlm Sеqm сгпd rерiп doгts so thot йеу аrе in line with thе peok о1 the bust. Add undетqгm dqrts if thеге qIо none in p(Ittoтn.

Toke up the ех tго frопt length with о long dогt just obove the woistline, tорег-

ing it io noйing towогd йе uпdегоIm

sеqm, Pin in ploce.

Тhе pottem wiй the new position о[

йе

undoTqTm dqтts

mqrked, crrd

tho

woistline odjustment pinned. Only lront о[ oottem is olteled.

FlTTING

Тц*о

IF ТНЕRЕ ДПЕ UNDЕRДВМ WRINKLES AND ТОО MUCH LENGTH АТ

l. А

ilot chest will

couse thе blouse pot-

tem to qрреоI

oS shown, when the pot-

iеш iS pinned

1о-

gейет ond tlied on. то сопесi, olteT f.ont of pqtiem qs in 2-З.

3. Pin рсреr

The wriпklеs dis-

орреот whеп

uпdеr

ГRОNТ:

Дdjustnents {оr cr f]crt chest qIе shоwп pinned in the blouse pqltem ai]ove, Раl

the center fIont to moke it stroiqht ogoin. Ве Sure thоi йis edge is poTollel tёIп {Iont jS

the lront of potteIn iS tok-

en up with о diogon-

ol dort

iopeIing to nothing tоwоrd the цпdетqтm seom, qs

to the up ond down line of flquTe rt hen pqtteIn iS сопесtеd.

illustroted obove:

по,W

теqdY {оI cutting lrоm

fсrbTic. Notc рсрет cCded to ihe ес]qэ.

IГ ВАСК ОГ BLOUSE РАТТЕRN PULLS UP АТ ТНЕ СЕNТЕR ОГ WAISTLINE:

l. А

гочпdеd bock

will ссгчsе йе pottern to рцll цр cs Bhown, crnd will couse йо сёпtёr bock lino io

рчII qwqу

top.

Lenqth ond widй сге

needed lor qood fit.

Siosh qs shоwп. SpTeod йе s]osh ond pjn рqреI unde! it,

Тhа АфчStеd pqi_ tегп pieco 1s shown. Noto фоt sliqht Jчl-

qlso rrndeT the centoT bock edge to moko lt poTo]lel to the up

ond down line fisuтe belnq litted.

is shown. Fuiness is token чр wiih tiny

ness hos been odded (tt both the cente!

doTts ot the neck, ond

the \мoist]ine, also.

ot the wqist]ine. ГIопt iS not o1teIed.

bock onc the bock о1 the neck, ond qt

4. А blouse cui Ьу йе qdjusled poitern w]ih qalhers or dcTis

F,4ь

PolNTERS oN

Весоmе fomiiioT with the tетms opplied to fobTic... study this ond thе following pqge 1от Simp]ified cutling tips, ýELYEDGE is the поmе qiven 1о the woven edge ol moteriol. ТНЕ LENGTHWISE THREAD Tuns poTollel to the selvedqe. TnUE BIAS iS the diogonol line goinec whеп the cToSSWise ihreod iý mode to пjп qlong lenqthwise thTeoC, GВДIN mеqпs the thleod of thе goods. "Оп the gToin" meons stroighi with о lengthwise оr cIosswise thTeod. LeoTn hоw to use the gIoin qs dеsсrlЬеd on the пехt poge. PRE-SHRUNK ГДВRlСs. if the JоЬгiс iS not pIe shrunk, shгiпk it (see poqe З). StIoiqhten the endý, сls ll]ustIoted, ond clip into the selvedqe (the woven edqe) ot iпtегчqls so thot tlre moteTiol will liё peTfectly flot. Press the cleoses oui of Ьоth fobTic ond pctlern.

Dlowtnq sbows lrЬf,I ]s ф:].]п1 Ьу lhe terms

"Lепqthlч]sе Тhгеоd", "Сrоsswjsе Тhгеоd", ond

"Тrчё B]cs"

l. io]d IоЬгjс iог bids

р]осб

"]engthv]s-. 1hread" o]onq "crosswise ТЬгеdd".

)

То вilоi9Ыёп уоч, ond cut olonq ihe

рu]]

о crosswise lhleod

LДY OUT ТНЕ ENTIRE GДВМЕNТ ВЕFОRЕ YOU BEGIN ТО CUT Ве sure уоч hove р]ёпtу rооm in whjch to do your cutt]nq out, €чеп iI уоч hove io wo.k on the flоог. Also Ье suге lhdl you! fob.ic is ргоре!lу prcpored.

Ргорег loyout ond оссuгоtе cuttinq ole most imрогiопt to the honq ond lit oj the {inished qогmепl. Iп lhe Du Вqlrу Ргimег оге cullinq quides mdde Ьу exРefis, Select thе опе of ihеSе thol сопеsропdБ 1о the style ond thё 1урё oI IоЫiс you оге usinq. ond circle it wiih репсi] ог сгоуоп, lhеп follow it foith{u]]y, Lay out lhе enti.e qolment Ье{оrе you Ьеqiп io cul, loldinq очег thе end ol the moleIiol оý the роttегп is pinned to it, il песеssогу, ond lettinq it ]ie оп о сhоlг от о ýma]lcT lobie. Use Weiqhts 1о keep the fоЬгiс in р]осе, ond use plenly о{ pins, ploco ot ri.]hi опqlе 1о lhе edqe oI ihe роttёrп. Whеп Ьоth sides oI о qогmеп1 оге olike, ncle фоt somelim€s you, poilern qiveý рiесёs 1oI only опе Slde, The cuttjnq diot]Tom in 1he Рrimеr shows how to loy the Pjeces so оý to cut Ьоih si.lcs of ]he gc.ment. So]]d l]п.s indi.ole the рогt replosanted Ьу lhе potleln, Вфkеп lincs n icot,. the оthё. ho]L Some pieces оrе cut dочЫе Ьу bejnq ]oic оп foldёd mсtё.iаl. /,hеп drrplicoie pieces such os sierres ore cut oui of.rn.rlc fcbTic, опе 1s clt {irs!, lЬеп thc ро1,' tегп is trr.ned ovel to cut ihe sёсопd, ве suге lc п.1. 1h-- .ярlопоljоп о{ poltern Per{olatjons опd поiсhеs оý given in thе РгlmоI (jnýtruciion quide),

cul wi'h

]оп9, {!пr sloshcs, {cl]oФinq the ouiline о{ рсllегп pIe.is.l!, Dlёsslnckel 1уре shеогs wп\ l n''oi "Ioj lo, 1,c, os

thеу con Ье quй_.d nlo.e eosily,

lп sh.elS ,,: nlJ!,I]ols ibot гсrеl eosily,

cut

поlсh..а; ()Dlr,old os уоч cul ou] thе piece. In

Ii.miy wovc! m.ieriols the Pieces mоу Ье nolch(]c oIt.J 1hoy ore cut out. Notchёs mdт olso Ье mo.ted wilh .hdlk

PolNTERS oN

ноW то CUT оN ТНЕ "GBAIN": _ ТЬ

IqЬriс is one ol йе most impoltqnt fqctoTs to conside! in dTёSsmqking-it сопtгоls the "hссrrs" of your gqrment. Grcin is фе dTessmokeт's tегm fol the stтoight ttцеоd о{ t}re fоЪтiс-it цrпý both lonsthwiýe qnd ciosswise (Ье Pose l2.)

sIqin

о{

Tha lensthwise gloin гчпs poTollel to йо selvedge, сrпd оп this gтoin уоu place йе Troin mqTkings of уоцI tissue pqtteTn.

("Sirqiqht of mсrtогiоl" is indic(Itgd Ьу two lсrrqв oo's ог Ьу сrrr сrЕоw ln сr printed potterd. То Ь соrtоiп йot йе g.loin mФktrgs on yorд tiýsue ссго i]x Йg exqct position, mеоsrго йе distcnce frоm the selvedge to the q.lgin line---ecch end of the line must

mесsrдо the зсmе distcЕli9 hоm the seIvedga.

WЪеп cultfirg iolded mcteTiol, Ь9 celtcdn io fold the {qbтic exqct]y on йе gTqin.

cuTпti[G

д cIlEcK

оR

PLДIDI Alwcys motch horlzontol Stfipeg qt Seoms Ьу placinч notches whiсh

сrа

to Ь

joinod. on йе scTme соIог. То tllustгоtе

.йis, йе two notchёý to Ь joined qt the sido sеоms qIе on с Ted stripe ond the sleeve сtnd cтmbole notches qтe on mctching

счттtNG rдвRIс WITH Nдр, PILь оЕ оt{Е_wдY

DESlGN:_When &ttиq о pile lobTic sчсh os vely+ tеэп, coTduroy, wооlепs with ncrp, olso m(ItеIiql with one-wcy desiqn, lcry qll the pqtiem pieceý in one diTection. Нсrчо йе пср тчппiпч up. You сqп

cetermina this Ьу the smooth, silky leeling фе fоЪтiс has when you Ьrush youт hqnd очеI it.

CUTTING Д ВIДS SкIBT

WITH DIДООNДL

STRIPES MEETING ДТ СЕNТЕR SЕДМ:_II уочr pqtlem lS not mсrkеd Ior йis рчтроsе, mqkе q trчg bios line on eoch piece

indicctins

йе

diTection the StтiреЪ wil} toke. LсIy

on рqttеIп pieces clong Stdpeý, cEld vrtih coEesponding notcheS mсrrks

plcced to motch (dicqoBolly Stliped {obTics cqnnot Ье сч1 ln йis mсrаеr).

*TRANSFERRING тнЕ ОF P"ATTERN ТО GARMENT ЁlВСВS Тhегg оrе sечегоl ecsy mейоds о{ mokltrs. Usе the mейоd you pTefer. otd do youT mqrking wiй the qreoteýt ссrrе cmd сtссtцqсу. Yоч will Jind йоt сlесг mcrrkinq speeds up йе aBspmblinq of с gоrmепt, os woll os iлsчriпq йоl dФts, росьь, cmd оthеr detoils Ье реrfесtlу bolcп.rced. СЪоlk iý цsе{чl fог mФlу ptцposes. Вчу о supply ol ýечегоI colob ot йе notion соцпtег qnd kеер it on_ hФld. Тhеге is q dгу type toT use оп siiks cnd wсsh moteriqls, (EId q woxy type JоI woolens. Рrеssiпg wiй с wсrm iIоп ётоsеs йе line on wооlепs.

I._MJIRK WIпl тдILоRý, тдскý

l. Мсгk реrfогqtlопв on уочr сlой Ыоге rеmочiпq pcttem.

то moko tqiloIs' tqcks use lonq dоцьlе thTeqd; lqkg Bmo]I Stitches tfuoush Doth lауеrs of fqЬгiс, leqving q loop, 2.

Дftel tоilогS' tocks qrе mcde in qlt pelfolctions, S9рФсrt9 lсуеrs of {оЬriс ond cltp ЙTeod. Thls lесrчеs q bit on еосh lоуег.

А aqcins whбеl

mсrу

ing cotloný. Могkiпq

2._€цр тдсЕS ВЕТWЕЕN

ьу

€Ф

used fоr mсrгk_ qlso Ье done

pqssinq ltцеоd очег mqqmeýiq chqlk ond рцlliпq 1t tbough the folotions. The mоgпеslо cholk реr_ wlll

LAYEnýI

lеqч9 о mсrk on уоtц mcteIiql. a.

Still спойоI Wcy to mcгk ts to рtл tlrTough реrfогqtlопs. Мсrгk wiй сhсlk oveT рiп Ttd гечslsе {qЬ!lс to mсrk чпdегsidе очоI pi]xs. Remove. plrs

qnd pqttgm рiосоs.

3._UsING

tт.д,сIt{G WHEEL

ý.

СlIАДК ТЕRЕДD FОП МДВЕINС

Rчп

bastins do\,rn йв свпiоr front crd bcck сrпd qlons blcs odsos.

4-мдRк рЕпFоRдтIоNS очЕR рINs

пUш вдsтIItG DoWN сЕштm

NEEDLE AND THREAD Usinq йе corIect sizo ot йTeod,- neodles, ond sowlng impoгtont jo good s"wrns. АЙсуi :1*j:тЧЧ!.1,is rеfет to фis neadle ond й,Ъ"JЪ"-iiЁ*Ь.'t#;;Ё;rr; yл.]!., Ч,.q,.у, t"bTlcs should o"ty Й'Б" соогsеr tц.еqd ond naedles, but "Ъt йе' stitchbs' "Ъr,i.,-iоji'Ь bn

ffJ*"оЁ"*Е?.;i::l?.*,жt#,нъ;h;**

[*'"ýTi:

:цi}"{qщ.rж}ъ.#;т":l?.оff dow_iй,йe ргорет thйJ ЬJ;;;ъ"".'?;

о sч,пгlт oI hсгrrd noedlвs crrd 1п 1ga l]x vctrious sizgs-

lYро ot Fсfutс

Фd coctbgs

Jfr;йЁ.':

.;;й;;;];

ЕОR SILKS, RАYОNS ДND WOOLENS соЬ.d ы& !ьЁэttt d мосыr. lь.аd tarh!9 ltcDd МасШпо dllcь.. slt.r

sulilng.

tЬэдd

в А

Medlum hбсчу vroolem

Дll qэпеId ýswiлq

м€dlцЕп

wajqht

шэ.dl.п

Ш.эdt.t

MediuФ сосгlэ

Mёdtuп

Соова

M€dluB

M€dlum

Medlurtr

Меdlчпr

Flде

Flпо

D., lqcb

оп

l1]lв, тоуопr, sбпi-зhо€r!,

mбdiчm Grrd llght woiqht

M€dlum

сhшIоп, ftпб €tlt Det. llght welqhl qёогýёltё, va; аhэсг '

.llls. shэоr..

ьсв

Fог

о оо

ýheol гоыtеs

ГОR COTTON FАВRIСS 8lccl с wшl.

lrD. ol FаЫф

Нsсry weovss

;l,iiiБ

fu.dd !Ь.

bocvy tlcllnq, iаrрочllп. duct, Фtllnq, co;voý. тсцlпg, d€nirn.

llФrd .odlo!

Mcchb. llcchЬa .ttсhэ.

t{.эdlэ.

Dot iпсh

"*"tйй;а. оп Ьчllопs cnd mcllnq ьчttойоlФý ln hе"l,у ;"i;;;. Н"с"у .т.Iопд., tБiЕБiЙi tis\t.lng

colo!.d MФcodt.d taTlli9 lьt.ad

Сооs€вt

4 5

сооЕg

соовэ

Medtum Сосгsа

Medlum

Мэdiчm Flпе

Mgdlum мёdlчm Flпа

lб ог

Еlла

Etae

90 ot

Flпо

гtпёзi

10 ог 12

tnullln, s€wing

on Ьчitопз dnd' з0 mо}iпg bultonhol€ý и Ессmепь or m9dlum чrэight mо!егlсl_ 40

Pe,*t.,

""хоьiБ-sйБ;; соilоп рrlоlв, g€nolol hоrве_ hold ýёwinq.

ý0

60 7о voIs, lсrwпs, gu llghl xroight Sчmmёr fоЬгtеý. 80 90

diniG;-;;

olcqndlo, Ыlsi€

ойоr ýhо€r

gld

Fiп€lt lссё, пеt 'ýьrtФcld оthБ d€licqto fоЬтtсЁ_

l00 l20 tS0 20о

Medlum

1yelg.ht

м€dlч1!

Fоr Shв€r lоЬпсз 'сьrlсý

меdiч]r

ВдSТING. гот bcstlnq vetvetB cnd 9Il mqtoqllols йсt mсг ecsily ond IoT оqsuлs portions of gсгmепtý Йоt

сЕе to Ье pтesýed ыого Ьоstjлqs сц.е Iemov_od, uso controýtinq sewlnq silk, ýrze A_cErd с mеdlцm needle. Еот

оthег. fоьгlсs чsэ slcszed bostins tfiг.асd qnd long mаdiцm Bizo noedlo, milllneт's n9€dle оI ordinФy madtum n9€dl9.

7""/ TiI

POlNTS ТНАТ МАКЕ UP Whоt is qood ljr? Check чр оп Yоцr knowledqa Ьу studyinq this сhсIt. It iilцstrotes some of the bosic pTinciples, which you con opply io qlmost qny dгеss оr otheT gorment you moke. ReцеmЬег thot clothes should Iit smoothly and iгimlу in geneTol, ond yet should

ollow you to rTrove in qny diтection with eose ond lreedom. Meqningless

wrinkles hоче по ploce in сI Well-{itted gaтment. Yоu сап eliminote them Ьу takins in а little hеrе, от letting оut о ]ittle thеге. StudY the poges, which deo1 with odcptinq q potteIn to fiqure peculiolitieý. If it iS с gоrmепt уоu qте Iittinq, noie the exomples given оп poge 2 1 . А holf hоuг spent qt fitting will qive а dless on expenSive, сцstоm-mоdе oiT, even though lhe mоtегiоl mсгу hсгче cost veтy litile.

лl

f -|

ll li

},*R

II your Jiquге чогiеs с qгеоi deo] Iгоп the очёrdqе, ог is сопsidетаЫу oul о1 ргороIliоп. Yоu will l]nd lt (гn ёхсеllепt р]оп to moke уоursеlI о muзliп l,аslgогmепi Ьеlоrе cutt]nq а drеss lrоm Eood mо!егiаl. Moke tbe odjuslments in усuг роilегп which yýu thjnk оrе песеssогу, сliег studyjnq poges б thru 1], ihеп cul iha qorment Iгоm uпЫеосhеd mus]]n. Тhе lурё ihо1 sё}]s {or о few cents о уоld iB ideol.

Т!у оп thё muslin qormenl cnd {it i1 obýolule]y регIесtlу to уоuг {iqure, Iollowing lhб inýlructions given in thе пехl {ew pcqes. Сhспqё lho woistline ond ihё lenqth, jI песеssогу; ечёп mqke е:iга do s 1l youi liquTe гёquirеs thеm. since qoad орресrопсе 1s noi с fссtоr jп ihе Фus]in, you con р:ёсе i1 ol points whёr€ it needs io'be qrесl]у enlotqed, Mcrk сепiеr I.ont ond cenleI bock wiih bostinq. 'Mork qroln ]ineý cleol]Y. Whеп ihe muslin dreýS 1о о Т, Iip i1 орdг1 согеful]у, Могk lhе dcrls ond lucks, thеп oРen thёm. Дltег '1ts you соп loy lhem on ihe qood IоЫiс ond usе 1hеm с9 а pot{e.n. То moks фё pieces hqуе Ьееп pressed sewinq eosie!, cut seom o]lowances uпiJогm, usiпq о qouqe jJ necessorv, 11

*кшотS AND FASTENING sTlTCHBs

с knot should Ь used гдSтЕNING FоR ндND SЕ\ЛItNФ-Тwо or mоте adtches, or out. сrt йе bqinning crrd ецd of ýewing to keep йе wогk fTom рчlliпч 'usl uBe о lсгgе knot сrt фе end ot gqйeTing йтеqd Ior loosely woven fqьriсs оthегwis€ о big knot ls печеr used----even о tiny knot shorrld Ье hidden on tho wгопg side. Most dressmqkeБ fcsten bostings wiй stttchbs, Ьсqчsg whеп bqstilgs Фе Ьeins г9 moved о knot mау cotch in йе IоЬгiс cгrd pull it. FДSТЕNING ЕND ОГ МАСКNЕ SТ!ТСНING-Fоr dcтts, plects, fucký, etc.. bcck-stitch ct йа ends от рч1l Ьой чррет ctnd loweT йгеоds io Wтons ýide Фrd tie йеm seqrтely.

lo мдr8 яоW (ýОТ-l-Wгор of thjgýd

l-SltP йо

йо end oToýnd йэ ttp

2-Rotl th€

lhг€qd

Ьемёеп lha йчmь

фrэсd lогwФd dnd оff

Ь.mlпg о loop, Hold looP Ьэlws€п йчmЪ qпd {оrэliпqэr; dT(rw il up

+-Shоwв corapl€led knot. Rё moEber to чsб с йtЕъlэ wh6,

s-гдsтЕNlNG gTlTcHE*--{_ йqw пoodle lhru Iobnc to out

stitcheв d фо ЬiпаIng of 'оst€lhэ п \^.огk ds shо!уп, d бnd о' Ь-shоws q thэ wоrk-iо поkg knol hоld 'обlепlпg йе thrgcd dоýrп оп lhб wronq

sldo йеп

stde triф th€ tЬчвЪ

<trtd

'/4

рФs

PlN AND BASTE.. ВЕгопЕ вЕGINNING то вдýтЕ от hcrndle gqT, ment pieces in qпу wcy, sЁtch qlons biqs edses to plevent stгetching. This includes сrлшhоlо сгпd neck]ine edges. Naxt, Study фе detcils of the pcttem ctnd йе gqгmепt, crrrd соmроrе them with йе S€Wins instIцctions (йе Du Вогry Рrimеr). LAY ТIIЕ GДRМЕNТ PIECES FLДТ ОN А ТДВLЕ Ь{оrе you bqýte, pin йе sеqm edqoý togetheT, mcrtchiтlg йе notches. Pin crt гiqht qnsles to йе seqm edge qnd Ь9 celtain йqt йе sеqm ql. lowcrrrces соmе tоgефег crt ends of tho seqm. ВдSтЕ тнЕ ýEIMS дссIIпАтЕLY - Use о PIN ОN ТНЕ TABIJ smqll гцlеr оI q gcugo ol ссгdЬосrrd (see pqge 19) to keep уоrд ýеqm qllowqnce йе sqrne tboughout. Let-out Sеоmý сrt the sides oI youl gcrTment hсrче о wideт secrll qllоwсmсе fоr qфчstmепl when fittins уощ {iqme. lt ls qdvisoble to let long sBcms hcTTrg loT о while ЫоIе stitching. Sоmе lqЬriсs slrctch mото thcn oйgrs cгrd mсу puckeт crt йе seqms. Shorrld йis оссtц, ýnip фе bqstiTrss crnd т+ mоче thеm; Te-bqste фе Socm, permitting йё вдýтЕ АIL ýEAI,{ý toьric to hФls smооth. в

ТНЕ RIGHT WAY TOPI l

*,,/

!^ь

medium size ог q m:lline!'s need]e is the best type to use fоI bosltnq. Pg. l5. А Ionqer rhrеqd is needed ,) ,r iог o,I-el s^winJ, ond ioт lhjs leqson

slqzed bostlnq ЙTeod is maTe Sotisfoctolv thqп оldiпо_гу sewrng thгеоd. Гоr boslinq velvet qnd otheT mqteTiqls thot mог eosiiy цSе Sewinq silk of о contTosiing соlог.

An ехirа long needle

о{

PIN ВЕгопЕ YOU ВдSтЕ. When join. ing two pieces, mqtch паiсhёs ond pin ot гight qпglеs to the edges, keeping wоrk оп the tqЫе. Use special coIe not to pull оI ýtIеtсh th,. edses.

SLP.BASTING is цsеd Iоr bqsting Striped mdteIiols, qnd {ог mokins qltегqtions оп Tiqht ýide of а gqrmепt. Slip the needle qlonq {iISt in thе upper cnd then йе ioweT lоуег о{ mqteгjql,

2. cнoosЕ тнЕ

BIGHT тYрЕ оF BAST. ING ýTITCH. Use q gqчgе if necessoTy to keep the seom qilоwопсе qп ечеп width. (2q). Тruе bqýting ls йе best suide foT even mасhiпе Stitching. 2с. SHORT ВДSТING. clBo cclled Even Bosting. Moke stitcheý оЬочt У+, inch long ond spoced 7з iпсh apoTt. 2Ь. LONG вдSтING, qlsо cqlled Uneven Bqsýng, is used foT sеоms йоt do not теceive mцсh strqin. тhб stilches should Ье frоm % inch to 7r iпсh lonq ond spoced гоthеI closely together. соМВINдтIоN BASTING iý о lons Stitch qnd sечегоl short stitches-

з.

SLANTED BASTING. Most цsеfчl foT bastinq toqether q соllqг and its Iocinq, от foT sliрреrу fobTics.

RЕМОИNG BAýTING. Clip the thтеоd qt intelvols Ьеlоrе ottemptins to Iеmоче bostinq. Рцiliпs too long о thrеоd mоу mог

йе

fobTic_

PдDDING ýTITCHES оге usеd q gTeqt deol in coot ond sult mqkins. undel stitches qге smoll qnd do not so thloush the lower lоуеr of fоЬгlс.

CHECK|NG ТНЕ FlТ ОF ТНЕ BASTED YOUR FIGURE ON OWN Q"r,rrr*,t

PBOCEED IN THIS ОПDЕП WHEN EITTING GАRМЕNТ:

l. If doTt odjustments оте needed, Tip seqm]ine bostings опd rе-рiп doTts. 2. ShouldeT sеqms come next. Pin

'Y:,

qdjцStments, ýmoothing the mоtегiqi црWqrd with the роIm oI thе hопd. Eose the bock to йе {Iont. This sliqht fulness is needed {оr shouLder oction. 3, Uпdеrотm secms поw. Re-pin whеrе qdjustments qте needed. 4. AfteT chonging the obove secrms, check the neckline ogoin. Il it iý not snug enouqh, от ii the b,Tck of thе wcist seems 1оо Ьгооd ot thе should^rs. pin tucks оI dqltý qt the centeT bock of the neck. If the neck is too high от too sпчq, mcrTk cnd clip the edqe, os shown in sketch, 5. Ii the отmhоlе binds, moTk ond snip the edge coutiously, keeping the оrmhole os hiqh undeT the отm оs comIoTt permits. If the shope oI thе огmhоlе is сltеIеd, thе sleeve should Ье TeIitted ond mqTked qs shown on page 2l.

EOW то МДКЕ СIIДNGЕS.

AItet morking the qdl'ustments needed, do not hчтгу thе finishins. Loy the dTess

When youT dlebs iS bosled and r e<rcy loT 1ittiпя, put on thе рrорег foundotion goTments ond

shoes, qnd try оп thе gqIment in fTont oi о full-Ienqth miгrог. Ехqmiпе it from ечеrу onglo befoTe mqkinq о сhqпgе . Note the exomples о1 fittinc; on ihe next poge, ond TeleT to the сhотt оп poge 17. Do o1l fittins with thе dTeSS Iight side out, qý йе гiqht ond left sides oI the IiguTe usuqlly vary. Let (I skiIt with bias Seqms hong oveTnight beIoTe qlteгing,

flot on о tоЫе ond tTonsfeT ihe moTkinqs to the wTong side With bqstins, or Ьу mqTking with toiloгs' chclk оп йе undeтsjde of q line oj pins. Rip seoms ond Iе bqste coTe{uily so thct stitchinq will Ье qссчIqiе qnd surе. RеmеmЬет that stltching inside от outside of о line of bostinq сqп moke os muсh os on inch dif{eTence in the ýize о{ о goTmen1 With mqпу seoms. ConsidgT whetheT you went уочI golment о little lооSеI от q ]itlle mоrе snug, Ьеfоrе you decide to stitch.

r |,

МАRК AND CLIP NEcK ОП ДПМЕОLЕ сдU. ПOUSLY ВЕГОаЕ TRIM. MING дWАY.

MAПKING ТКЕ HEMLlNE:-When you lгу оп lhе qогmёпt IoI linol {itl]nq, ,toke thе sliгl iепqlh. If sоmеопе ссп tok€ ii {ог you, hcve hег mогk согrесt lenqlh wjlh о уогdsliсk опd о ]ine oI pjns, ог tо]lог's cholk опd ihen tuTn 1hе hеm up, L you musl tcke уочг оwп skili l€пglh, чsе on qutomotic 2L

,{_r;

i*au

АпЕ

t,i\\

вЕfоRЕ

вЕFоRЕ

WШI{KLES Jrоm neck to rrn_ deTcTm, os shown, con Ье coTTected Ьу toking up goT-

DВДWN LINES frоm tip

ге-ЬоStе, topeling Seoms toword the neck. Adjust qlm-

cnd Te-boste, Торег secrms towqrd shоuldег tip, Iettlns

о{

ment oi shouideT seqms. PinJit; then Tip seoms ond

shouldeT towoTd centeI {Iопt con Ье coTTected Ьу tokins up shouldeT sеqms пеоr the neck, Pin{ii; then Tip seoms

hole if песеssогу (роче

out рогt о{ sеоm ql]o,vrcrnce,

20).

N l//

SHOULDER SEAMS mоw Ье too long fоr some Tounded figuTes. То согIесt. moke о doTt ot shоu]dег iront to sholten sеqm ond give Ьust Iulness. Moke q shогt doTt in bock shouldeT sеqm to corTespond Wlth the fгопt.

t\l

ll BEFoRE

гтЕR

вЕtоRЕ

АFтЕR

ВдGGINЕSS ot the lower вдGGY WRINKLES below b}ouse bock con oiten Ье thе woist jn bock con ollen colIected Ьу tokins in Ьlоusе Ье соrrесiеС Ьу Taislnq skiгt ot waistline. Occosionoily ct bock woistline. IJ, in odentlrc bock must Ье Toised. ditio]l to ihе bock wTjnkles, То do this, rip side ond shoul dег seoms ond pin-fit. Тhеп

тесцt Ь]оusе top Ьу potteln,

thэ отпrhо]еs drоg dovrn ot both fTont ond bock, Toise

shorrlders сrпС clip neck edge.

вЕгоRЕ

tiny dоrls, оI iп

t. +< lг \

sLEEvE to

огmhо]е: l. Тчrп

оli_.r.-^.]

uпdеr slеёче seom qllowqnce ond pin to отmhоlе, Кеер чrаiп of IоЬгiс exoctly чегtiсоl.

Моrk огmhоiе ]ine o]ong top of S]eeve wlth bosting, Moke moTk stitches through qтmhоlе ond top of sleeve, then clip thеm, qs shоwп. 21

gatheIs.

This corlection is olso sometirnes used whеп Ьiоцsе Iэосk iS too wide qt the shouldeTs.

I FIT

тЕR

GAPING ot bock oI neck сqп Ье coTrecled Ьу о dort. DistriЬutэ thе Iulnesý token up Ьу tbe dort in q group oI

то

АFтЕR

If both sleeves hаче not been fltted on the {igure, Iold b]ouse qnd mcrTk оth*^г qrm, hole. MqTk thе second sler-.vo {гоm the first one.

Н ЕА

Ц*

-0шr,

"PRESS AS YОU GО- ls q гчlе of good Sewing, it mokes sewing еоsiег, cs well os ссhiечiпs q pTo{essionql Iinish. Нсrче уочI Fот equipment hondy before slitchinq complete equipment Sее Poso 4. Hcгrdle youT fobTic cs dеsсгiЬеd on рqqе 3.

5. моIýтЕш sЕдд,I

wlfil А

ýмАJд BBUýH-When domp сIой leсгves сп impтeýsion on fоЬгiс, place dry сlой oveT sеqm cnd pTess,

DдIцрЕш рпЕsý CLOTE WIПI Д SPONGE-Alwoys use о cloth oveT hеms.

ýТЕДД{ YELYET SEAMS-When you hcrven't q velvet boqrd, ploce о domp cloth очег с stqnding hat iюп. Hold wIопg slde oi sqqm osqinýt йе iгоп. Do not hсгrdlе unttl dry.

рпЕýs LAPPED SЕДМ ВЕFОПЕ BAST. ING дND sтITcHINc.

7. uýE д wIпE vELvET воАпD

PBESSING PILE ЕДВRIСS-РIос€ ght side of fоЬгiс cgoinst needles in bocad. Use о pTess cloth-press gently.

3. рпЕýS ýEAMS, тUскý, Dдптs, Етс. дs sооN ДS STITCHED.

UýING

,Fоп

sLEEvE BoARD. л

IrsING

А тдILоRý cUsHIoN.

BASlc

STlTcHES Enowlng bow qпd when to цsе сЦ hспd sýtсh98 cnd йeir чqri. ctions Ъ impoTtcol iп lепdЬq stylo to ф9 gqrmenta уоц mсkэ: I.

ЕЕЕР ТНЕ WОПЕ ON ТНЕ ТДDLЕ. This keeps the mа_ tefiql ftom beins soiled ond wTinkled ond. qlso plevents stretchins йе edges qs уоч sew. The sewins mсгу Ье

done with qrесtеI speed ond сссчIосу. 2.

ВЕЕР ТВЕ WОRК ОN ТНЕ ТДВIД

HOW ТО МАВЕ RI'NNING sTlTcHEs. Rчппiпg SlitсhеБ qrе used fол seqms йоt do not Ieceive mцсh stToin. The needle is passed thгоччh the fqЬ,гiс tqkinq up йе smqllest possйle qmочпt

for eoch stitch. Hold the fqbdc tqut between йе йumь qnd foTe{ingeT os you wоrk. ý\

з.

GАТНЕRIШG STITCHES.

These оте made exoctly like

гчппiпq stitches. Knot youT

йтеqd йеп

fill йе

nebdle

with stitches ond push йеm bcck on йе *гeod.

НОW ТО МАКЕ ПUNNING STITCHES

НдND SнIRшNG. ShiTrinq is mode Ьу plqcinq IoWS oI gqйеIS one undeT йе otheT. Spoce the rows qs desiTed.

,5. GдUGING. Used tог

ing qnd wheTe q sIеаt deql oI mctedql is io Ье gothered

ilt

3 GдтнЕ

smoek-

into с smoll spoce.

The

siitches qrc long on the right

side qnd shоItег on the чпdёI sidё. They must Ь Spoced evenly 1п the Tows ond йе stitches of one тоw exoctly ыоw those of йе тоw obove it. Drаwп up, the fulness wiil Ье in perfectly even foldB.

NG ýTITCHES

lrl\ц.,l

|il,l|i]

ttшi

il i{

lцд

HAND SНIВПING

GдUGING 2з

9rrr*аl-Continued

l>__ -,r-

5. HEMMING оR гELIING

STITсHES. Methods of pгepcling hеms оте shown on poge З6. Р]осе thе moteriol очеr the {оте{iпsеI of the left hqпd qnd hold it fiгmlу in hls position with ihe ihumb ond second jiпgег os shоwп.

SLP.STITCEING гоR SEWING HEMS. Siip-stitchinq is invisible on both sides of the woTk. Тhе undeT paTt о{ the slip-stitch Ьотеlу coiches thlouqh the fqbTic от tokes uр not moIe thqn two thгеоds of goods, Тhе uppel рогt ol ihе siitch iý slipped o]ons in the iold of the hem. Do not dTqw stitches uг ir-hl]Y.

l0. SLIP.Sllicrr LD\,rý

r\Jqiьrrtttl. USe the s]ip-Stitch to mqke о joining iпчisiЫе fIоm the гiqht Side, Hold edqes to Ье joined with the lоrеiiпsег о{ Ieit hond between thеm ond then ýlip needle o]ong, fiTst in lhе fold oI опе edqe, ihen the оthеI.

7. PLдIN HEMMING.

Fosten the thTeod uпdеI tho fold о{ the hеm; iqke о tiny stitch, cqtching о thTeqd ог two of the foblic, then ЬIlпq thе needle ihTough the edge of the {old, The slitches should Ье smqI], even ond sliqhtly slqnted. l

l. QUlcK

ING.

METHoD

оF

SLIP-STITCH-

skilled iп moking slip stitchlng, it is роsslЬlе to hold the moteIiql os shown ond tcLe thтее от fоuг stitches оп the need]e Ье{оrе drowing the A{teT опе becomes

thTecrd thTouqh.

+ 8.

The Stitches cle BLIND_HEMMING. mode thе sоmе os hеmmiпg stitches except lhоt thеY оте spoced {отthег oport ond toke up not mоте thоп one thTeod of the undeT loyeT ol qoods, The slitches should not ShоW on thе fight side о{ the 1чогk-, hence the пqmе Ыiпd-hеmmiпg.

12. B,,r"STITCHiNG гоВ LININGS AND

LДPPED EDGES. Sllp

needle qLong IiIst in 1hе uрреr crnd lhеп ihe IоwеI iоуег of moteriol. Mcry olso Ье чsеd foT basting {Iоm risht side. See pcrqe 19. 1hе

9"'*r1

lз.

MATERIAL Fоi HoLDING тнЕ ВАск STITCHES. Р]осе ihe foblic очеI {oTefingeT of le{t hспd, glaspinq Ьоth еdgеs fiTm]y between thumb ond thiтd finq,-г.

14. МдкING

15.

17. OVERCASTING. Pin thе moteTiql

о long, Stloiqht edge to о 1оЫе coveT, while woTkinc:, unless edse is bias. In this cose, hold thе edqe oveT the forefingeT of the 1e{t hond while ovelcostinq.

А ВАск

STITCH. Гоstеп thгеоd ond toke one гuппjпg Slilсh, Now. take о slitch bock, plocinq needle in woTk ot beqlnninq о{ first Slitch ond bringing it o1l1

continued

., slitch cJhe.ld,

ндLг ВАсК STiTCHING.

thгеоd ond toke

oVERHANDING. Stitches toke up not поге 1hоп one оI two thгеqds ond оrе spoced veTy close iogciheI. GeneToily used to join selvqge edges of linens.

Гоstеп

опе оihеr о19 Iullninq

stitch. Now, take о siitch bock, рlосlr,tч needle in moteriol hqlf wоу betrveen Ье, ginning ond end of fiTst stitch qnd blinqinq it out 1wo stiiches оhеоd. continue in this woy.

16. coMBINATloN RUNNING AND вдск STITCH. Moke luппiпg stitches, then о bock stitch, then Tunninq ýtitcheý aqqinj continue o1l the woy осrоss,

l8.

19. WHIPPING sTITcHEs FоR JoINING EDGES. Ho]d edses togetheI ond toke

stitches очег the edse with the needle in SlcJnted poSition.

20. WHIPPING DowN

А RАw

EDGE. А {ocinq con Ье Lept frоlп гcrvclillr] ond mоу Ье seweC down ot t]lil:nlll]t'lirl),] },ilit whiррiпс: stitclleý tl1,]t crl1,,lr 1}rIrlrl til ,,rr,, оr two thTeods о1 tho Llt l( i(,г l( у(,г , ,i l)l ll(,l l, Il, I

TYPES

оr 9eajra

AND THEIR USES-

Fот mcny gсrгmепts ploin ог pinked seqms qTg guite sctlsfoctory. Гот оthогs you will wcnt to mqke ýеоms йqt ccnnot posýibly rсгчеl, ог веqms that Iinish фе inside qs Ьесчtifully os the outside. " YouT cholce, ol сочrsе. dependB о sгесd deql upon the IсФгiс, os well оý йе qctrment. Sooms {от чсrтiоцs closses oI oppoTel оте su99ested blow. Look up Йе secms Tecommended Iоr youT prTpose; qnd note, too, йе {inishins ond tTeotment о{ seoms descTibed in йе pages thot {o1low. PTess qs уоч go-see pcqe 22. Го! Uпd6!wбс, Рrепсh веоmз, з€u_сочетёd sеопз. rolted ýеqпs, ýecms with tumed edq€B 61itched iG

Poi Dtэ!.эr, вlощэ! о' sh.о, гпьarса-DочЬIэ_ýtilсьеd 8€оms, trlml8€d qчоу; rollod бёсmý; heвSlitchбd

qеlhег. Тh€sо sgoms сЕё oll deý]gnёd stтвпgih. опd to proYeцt frqying which miqhl Ь 'оr сочsбd Ьу гереоtеd lо!пdФгiпqs. Us€ йе type best ýutlёd to lhe fоЪriс cfild lhо gотmёпt with which уоч Ф€

Fоr Ulltцеd

Eot cbildror'. wcsb сlойё!. lo! нощо Dte'3er. Фd Molt ollot wсýh Gсrпепв _ Frепсh вооmв. sslfcov€rcd S€qms, бёоmý ,.!riй tuinФd бdgез sttiсhёd

Fо! LItr d Jcclct.. coýt!-Plctn sеqmý. pinted !ааms, tор-зulсhвd sбсms, wэll ýэоmý, Blot seomB. sоmб s€qФ.s ln Йвýё gorments or€ чsчqПу iýped, эsр€сtýDу Д ой Ыо, бd96., 6€6 Роqs ЗOJ

зеоms.

lyoTLinq.

Fоr Taltotэd Дрtош, wc.hcbl. Uпtlогm. nct f;lled Seoms, selI,covered sёоms, Frепсh ýёсmз.

Го. МавЪ cnd

Fоr Drc.go5 cld Blour.r ol Ltýbi.wolqьl wool ýtll. о. RсYоs _ oveTcoýt SёсIuý, pinkёd sесmý, ýэоms wiih lurned опd stitched edqes, or ЬiбЁ-Ьочпd ýеqmý, dФ peвding оп hоw Iiгmlу woven thв mclerldl Ь.

Гоt Dtа!.э, ol Нэgчу, ГЕЕlY wоч.п Мсiэttсb Pjnked ýec8ný, очоrсdýt S€оms.

Btqв-bound веслй siгdр sеоmý'cc&et. wilh tuтned опd stltdlэd ёdgеs от Ptnkod]

Сось

Ьу/

8Ыrв dld Рсrсmqr

Пct f€llod

Ео, sрэсtсI gэс[ош ol GсtЕопв AlmЪоlёs, уоЬý, - wobulneý Фrd lopp€d ýBoElý с.о-oftэn {lлlýhбd vdй s€оms ovelccsl dочы€ or ьсцtrd. Blos s€gЕr Фе uýuoliy loPed whеп Йеу оrо зчЬJёсt to stоlп. Dбсýtоliчё з€оmý оФ usad fог цопу ршроsвв. Ь Швst q_ tЪrв oad deвcdpllon! Ёоt aollow.

РLдIN SEý.I\1L A{teT stitching сrпd те, movinq ihe bqsting, press йе sеоm ореп, peT{ectly flot ог to оце side.

PINKED SЕдlчL This {inish ссгr Ье done with с pinkinq mqchino оI pinking shеЙs. AfteT рiпkiпч-йе edges tоgёthег рrеss йэ Sectm openl flqt, оI to опе Sido.

ý\ýý\\\\\\\\

\\\-\\\\\\\\\\

SEпM _ SINGLE Siitch сгrrd pleSs the sеqm open, йеп oveIccбt ecrch side. Tcrke rrp obout Ив" oI йе {qЬriс

з. оVЕпсдSт

4. очЕпсдsт sжM _ DoIrBLE.

Wiфoul thе aeqm open, oveIccsl oul рIеsýшg oveTccst йо рIеsýш9 Ine seqm edgres togleфol; ртевз to опе side.

ond do not dгсгw the stitchos too tisht.

l I 1

l l i

пrпшЕD дND STITсHED EDGEý. Moke plqin ýеým. Тum гсгw edqes in; Stitch cIoS9 to tuming. Ргеss sеqц open.

ВОUND SЕДМ. Stitch ond pTess secrrrt open. Епсобо eqch edge with Ыqs оl seqm bindins ond boýte. Stitch qlons bqBting.

DOUBLE $TTCHED ýЕАм. Stitch rе9чlсг sеqm. Mqke с second Tow ol stitchinq сIоSё to fiгSt. TTim close to second Siitching,

7. торбптснЕD PLДý sЕtrM.

Stitch plain seom, ргеss odges to one Side; topStitch пеqг Sеqm line on outside. Clip curved seqm edges; Ieeve ploin, ог overcqst edqes tоsеthег.

l0.

WELT ýЕдМ. Stitch

ll.

DoUBLE STITсHED WELT SЕдм.

TeguIc:T sеоm.

Trim one adge (Ind bastg Widel edge ovel it. stitch on outside оъоut Уд" {тоm sёсm line.

Make о welt secrm, йеп лln ct second Tow of top-stitchinq close to йе ýeqm liпё.

8. гLдт гЕlлD sEдIt{. Slitch

теsul(Il ýеqm оп outslde ol sоrmепt, TTim one side to ys" Jrom stitchi]зs. Тчm TсrW edge oI otheT side rrnder crrd lсгp очеr tтimmed side. Тор stltch closo lo tцmеd edge, ,

t2. ýELгcovEnED

ýЕАМ. Вqstо ,тоsчlоr

seqm. Тгim one side to Уs inch flоm Ьosllnc. тчm ойат side oveT йв rоw edso ond stllch.

9oonU

-Continued

lЗ.

ГRЕNСН SEAM. Moke ploin sесm on outside of goTment, holf thе depth of sеqm ollowqnce. ттim close to ýtitchinq. TuTn qnd mqkе second seom deep enouqh to tqke up TemoindeT of sеоm ollowqnce ond to covel Iаw edges on inside. Рrеss on inside,

17. сLIPPED дND cURvED очЕRсдSт

.dg

ýЕДМS, Clip to oilow them to 1ie flqt; очеr-

cast odgeý together от рIеss ореп crnd очегcost еqсh edqe.

I I

14. TUCKED SЕДМ. Bqste requloT inside

sеqm. Ргеss to one Side. То {отm о tuck, top-

stitch qbove bosted sеqm

line./

l8.

cRossED ýЕдмs. Stltch

the lilýt ýеоm

ond ргеss open. Then ýtitch the seom which cTosses qnd press it open olso. overcdsi еосh edge.

lý. сдтсн.SтIтсн SЕдм. stitch seqm ond сut one sidё to hqlf its width. coveI thiý еdче Ьу cotch-stitching the otheT side oveT it-

19. LдРРЕD SEAM. TuTn the seqm

ql-

]owonce on опе edge ond boste. Pin bosted edgo 9u., lhe rqw edqe о' otheI piece os shown. Top-stitch olong the tulned edge on outside. Clip сurчеd edges о{ sеоrn.

16. EDGES STITсHED TOGETIIER. Stitch ploin sеоm, tum гqW edges in; stiich to-

gether. Press sеоm io опё Бidе,

2в

9oonO-Continued

2# 20. ЕдSING IN FUIЛЕSS. WЪете опе edse is ýliqhtly lопgеr йqп lho оthеr os qt thе iop of slеече, the lопgег edge must Ье eosed in. Hold the side to Ье ecsed towoTd you ond pin ot tTequent inteTvqlý. Bcste, then stitch.

23. SтRдР SЕдtчl Mстke ploin sеаm

оп

outside oI goTment. Trim edge to 7-r" ond

рIеsý ореп. Plqce trце Ьiоs strip (edoes рrеssеd under) ovel seom ond boste flat. Stitch qlonq both sides close to edges. BTqrd OR ribbon mоу Ьо used.

2l. DOUBLE

24. ВIДS SЕДМS. То keep seoms TOP-STITCHED SЕДМ. Stitch

ond рrеss Sеqm open. Гiпish оп the оцtsidе Ьу stiiching olonq the sеоm ]ine.

Iгоm

stletching, boste {ilst to tissue pcrpeT, thЪп stitch. Теот the рорет owoy сгпd {inish the edges, Recommended foT veTy shеег fоЬгiсs

Which q!9 likely to dfqw togetheT while stitchins.

22. SLOT SЕДМ.

PTess bock s_ocrm o]]rэw-

ctnce on gorment cnd bTins the turцеd edges to meet at the centeI 'of о stToighi cui ýtTip;

baste. Top-stitcr] еосh side.

25. ROLLED SЕДМ. Stitch о

plcrin l;,trm, then Toll seom bolwoon Iltrrrrrll rrrrrl lrTo {iпgеr с-rпс] whi1l ,,lc,:lг l{, llll, :Illt( llltl,,

9n*rol

-Сопtiпчеd t-,-

__-

_i__-_

--,.__-.-J

фffiffi

29. зЕдм IN Nдр !ДВRlС.

In joining о nop moteTicl to plain fоЬгiс. woTk with пор чр. Вqstё c(Id stitch qs shоwп.

26. PIPED SEAM. (Wiй ОR wtйout сотф, Use btos fold topo or cut StIip. of biqs;

fold йточgh сепiоL Plqce piping between зеqm edges qnd bqste. stitch оп inside. whеп using соrd, сочеr it with йе bicý. Stitch closo to coTd. Insert piping in йе sесrm os doscTibad obove.

з0. тдРЕD

SEAIVI. Used wheTe biqs edges ore likely to Strctch ог S(Ig. ShTink thе tсrpe сtnd Lqýte qlonq seqm line. Then stitch close

to bosiinq,

27. ToP.STTсHED PFIýG.

Iпsеrt piplnq qв explqined qbove. тчm to outside crd bostg {Iot. Topstitch посг seom line.

зl.

ýЕАм noLlED дltD WHIPPED то ,to

ЕNТiЕФЕUХ. Cut эпtIэdечх cloge lattice edse. RolI seom odga oI {obTic ccrrd whip tоgейеr.

ýЕдI,{ING вlлý то ýTnдIGHT гАе ПIС, When joininq blcs to stгоisht m(rteгicl оlwсуs hold йе bios on top ог noxt to уоч. Pin qt {rеgчепt in,torvq]S. Baste, йеп Btitch.

Тhе {сЬгlс mcy Ье gothered Ьэlоге it Ь ioined to йе entTe-deuK. Simply dгсw up фо фгеоd'iп йе rоIIеd edge until йs desiTed fulness 1в gcined. з0

PLEATS l lNýD!

ot пiФl

IшVERTED РLЕдт IN sЕдм. Stitch odded piece io pleqt extensions, Clip sеqm in hеm qnd ргеSS open (see pg. З7 sketch l0). Stitch top о{ pleot thточgh

INVERT.ED PLEAT IN

outside. tosether.

sЕдм

оtлslDЕ

очеrhопd seom edqes

PLEAT. Clip into seom's widih ond ртеss

SET-IN INVERTED

coInels

edges to inside, On ihе inside, ploce pleoted Section in opening, motching seom edges. Bqste. оп the outside siitch с]оsё to the turned edqe.

SET_IN TNv r:n , ED РLЕлт

ýIDE РLЕДТ IN SEAM. C]ip sеоm ot jp ol hеm ond pTess ор-п (sec рч. З7 Бkеtсh I0). Гiпtsh hеm ond ov-r,<rsr seom edges tоqёthеI. Ргеss plool to one side. Stiich in dioqoncl line on outside to hold pleot in рlосе.

4. вох дND

INVERTED PLEATS, Fотm Ьох pleot, (о) ond ýtitch close to pleot edgos on outside. Гоrm inveгted p]eot Ь), stitch close io pleat edqes on оut Side. Do not pTess pleots until hem ls

D,,.*|r:22z!4!!-!rz, INslDE

Srt

оtлýlDl

L рLЕдт IN SЕдМ

tuTned.

SIDE РLЕдтS. Motch lines of mcrrkinq ond pin, ihen boste рlеоts iп рlссе. stitch сlоsо to pleot edges on outside.

6. рпЕLIмINдRY PnEssING FоR 4. ВОХ AND

РLЕДТS. Loy pleots qnd pin uppeT end to ilопiпg boqTd. Pull tout ot lower end ond pin so оII mcrrklnqs motсh, Do not pIeSý lower end untiL hеm iý 1urпеd.

INVEBTED PLEATS

FINдL PпESSING FоR РLЕДТS. Аltег hеm is sеwп, baste pleots down wlй silk thгеоd. Ploce ртеss сlоlh очет mоtеriоI ond dоmреп ýliqhtiy ъrilh Spo4qe Ьеfоrе pTessing.

оtлslDЕ

SIDE рLЕдтs

pRELIMINдRY PRESSING

гоR рLЕдтý з]

ГINДL PRESSING ГОВ PLEATS

TUcKS Tucks seTve two pt]Iposes one os о decoгotion qnd the оtьеr qs о meсtný to Iit oui оI Ыing {цIпеss lnto q garment whеrc it

is need-od.

l. МЕДSUВING GДUGЕ ГОR TUCKS. Alwoys use о gouge of cordboqTd

МЕДSURING GДUGЕ ГОR TUCKS

notched to shоW:-

I. 2.

2. IIдND

Тhе depth of the tuck. Тhе dislqnce between thе tucks,

ндND BUN PIN TUCKS. Моrk the lines {oI tucking Ьу cTe(]sing ol рIеSslпg on the thгеос of the goods. Run the tцсk

vely neql ihе creose.

RUN PIN TUCKS 3.

OVERHAND TUCKS. Могk the lines

уоu wish to follow ond oveThqnd (see pg. 25) oveT the morked line with tiny

shqllow siitches keeping ihеm con-

з.

sistent in deplh. Usе сопtгqstiпg оr self соlог ihтаоd.

ovERIiaiND TUcKs

4. cRosýED

TUCKS

CBOSSED TUCKS. Меqsuте ond mqkе oI1 tucks runninqr one way {iTst; then mоkе those clossing the first os shown.

SHELL TUCKý. А{tеr сrеоsiпs the tuck, moTk the shell with с smоll dot ot intеrчо]s. The ienqth of the she1l should Ье obout lwice the dерih of the tuck. Run the tuck. Тhеп qt eoch dot toke tи, о Stitches ovel the tuck dIowing thеm сlоsе to fогm thе shell.

НДND RUN CqnDED TUCKS. Гпсоsе cord at the ]jne of moтking ond set,ute with q running stitch c]ose io the coтd-

7. мдснINЕ CORDED TUCKS.

MoTk position о{ tucks qnd boste eoch cord in рlосе. Stitch wiй соrdiпs Joot close io the согd.

а\u\Z-\/-\лý 5.

SHELL TUcKs

I{AND пUN coRDED TUcKs

7. з2

МДСНINЕ CORDED TUCKS

0дктS, TUсKS "[

l. гдN TUcKs. used os

dесоrоiiчё Iеоhге on the orrtside от inside о{ lhe gqlmenl. MqTk whele tucks оте 1о Ье ond Tun thеm Ьу hqпd ог mосhiпе.

l. EAN

TUсKS

SHOULDER TUCKS. Shоu]dег 1ucks mоу Ье used 1о bring lulness очег 1hе bust. Вгjпq moгkinqs toqether ond bqsie, then stitch.

* 3.

sHouLDER дND WAIST DABTS. А doIt is о tuck Whiсh graduotes io nolhins ot one end оr qt boih ends, BTinq moTklngs together qnd Ьсtstе dqгl, then stitch. РIёss dol1 to опе ýide,

От. in heovy motelio]S, сut dqTt

lhтоuсзh

cnd очегсоsi еосh edqe, Рrеss flot.

SHoULDER TUсKS

TUCK СОVЕRING SEAM. А tuck mоу Ье mode diTectly over о seoTn to hide thiý joininq. Мqkе tuck qs shown, ц

5. CIBCULAR TUCKS, Meqsure

or]c]

moTk edge ond depth oi tucks witlr bosting, Whеп rrrnning 1uck, 1uLl irl the uпd_ог mol-oriol оs shоwп hото.

6, GДТНЕRЕD SLASHES ОВ DART SЕДМS. Used when uрреr edge

о{

s]osh is flot, ond loweT edge is to Ье lulled to the uppeT edge, Use о stoy of motching coloT fоr qdded stren..lt]r. о. cut о Stoy ond opply to outside oI fоЫiс. Outllne whеrе the slosh wi]l Ье, Slitсh to о poinl ot iппеr end. Ь. Slosh ond turп uрреI eCge oI stoy to

*З.

SHOULDER ДND WAIST DARTS

inside. Gоthеr iоwеr edge, с. StLtch чррег edge llot over gothels. Overcost edges tоgеthег to keep frоm iroyinq,

TUCK COVERING SEAM

cIRCULAB TUcKS

GДТНЕВЕD SLДSНЕS ОR DART SEAMS

вlO

\{'hаt is lollT t! рF? ý'hаt co],rTs пrаk,l tпll уоur

Da?

e,tcilinq апd апгасtiче self? (irIrrTз

цеrr.

егпlIr, lxtrrrrling to 1-()ll аго ýhlnrll \rilb l,,rrr crrIrll, tlpll Ьеlrлr. I _ rr,.: tbcqe ,,,l,,гs. exI,cl,inlгrrl п ith а, t,r,rl l:rl,r,i,,s.

LoNG

\сЕ

Rапgs, rroTn Jп sc,lt clrrls о\ ог lhе iоrеhеаd аrе

c[{ectilc jп sbo1,1.ni!lg this typr: oI Iacr:. lI rir sborlI,1 hалс

BbJ,

Jl",

_Ёь.

wндт

i,. ilrillv

зпd [c,,lil,,: ,,rf s,lItnc,s.

sнАрl

тнЕ toNG rдсЕ

лrЕ

,tоu Аl ПU'!IIIf?

тнЕ ýoUARl fAcE

дl" .I

Jl"

/_,ц.

твЕ TRlANol,,LAn FAсE

SQUЛRЕ FАСЕ

This is usually а strопg {асе. Hair should Ье woTB long behind thе width oI thе jaw line. Сhооsе qrrite simple соif{uгеs. eaTs to balance the

I,RIдNGULлR FлсЕ

Тhе tтick with 1his t}pe of face is to rveaT haiT long and {ull below thе еаrs to {ill in паrlоwпеss о{ сЬiп- TTv a]so а fcu, soft сuг]s at lhe temples.

\\'ith tbe a'd о{ diiferent shades of пrаkе-чр

пlrпt, additirлral co]rrrs mat Ье rr,оrп {rrliT, \о mаttег rTbat тоur rTlloring,

11)п (,ап &-саr na\ 1 апd Ыасk 'f thev аrе гсli"r.,] н itb ýhile ,,r 1,IiЕhl dссепl-,

RO[]ND FлсЕ Tb's tTpc сдlls ftlг а sirпrlie hаiгdк,ss. А side ;l;rгt апсl а ftlt:lirrg ot up-

лгi

rrlrlrerпr,пl rгр {]лl_ lсr'п,J. А\ ()i(] tij,Ilrt l,rlrls п

lпс1 rtjdlb

rlrcl tbll

blt

\r, fЬ,

Lг,

тнЕ

l!",l

Jln.l:L,

f,-

arl l1

Rl0.,,д;

ТНЕ nOUNO FАСЕ

'?l'

_}ь.,

\е'

ол

'- 1}

r:агs.

YOUR r^(E

tou mtDlчм

,{0uR ндlR тuпШr'lG

Gif},

-//_

lЯЕ OVAL

FАСЕ

НЕДRТ FАСЕ

Close'to tlre crral {or рет, Iect tl Pe.ihc hеаrt Shaped регSоп lrla! usuaIl1 irldrrlge ilr tlrc coifIuTe r,{

tbe hочr. Нсrе, the conlenierri jеаthег спtl,

очлL FАсЕ

This is

t:onsideTed tbe п]оSt perfect t\ ре oI {асе. r\lmost any stvle of hаiг-

dri rnar Ье rtom- Неге.

the Il3sS (

ellleI

Il:lгt

rTitb h'gh соrопеt Ьгаid.

@fФ

AND SHIRRING l.

SНШПING. А group oI qoйeTs is colled shiггiпq. А smoll гчппiпg stitch is used lог qqtheTing Ьу hond. Тhе gotherine foot is used fоr neqtest mqсhiле gothers. Теý1 Stitch on о ýсгор ol lobTic, ond odjust if dеsiгеd, befoTe qсrthегiпg о gqTment.

GАТНЕПING WITH REGULJIR PBESSEn FООТ. Loosen tension slighily. Stitch TowS to Ье gоthеrеd.

l. SHIRRING WlТН ТНЕ GАТНЕRING

Fоот

гоstеп опе end oI ýtiiching.

Drow up члdет-lhтеqd. GАТНЕВING WITH ELASTIC THBEAD. Wind ЬоЬЬй coгefully Ьу hond with the elqstic йrеqd, keepino the tension even. Uýe опу stlong silk оI cotton thTeod in thе need]e of the mqсhiпе. Using the геqчlоr pIesser 1oot, pтoceed os foT огdiпоry sewing. Tiqhien uppeI tension о 1ittle iI neces-

SаIу.

2. 2.

дD]USTING GАтнЕпs

ДDJUSТING GАТНmS. The чпdеrthTeod oi mochine qqihеIý (not elqstic), mсrу Ье dгоwп чр to qdjцSt qotheIs. з. гдSтЕNING GдтнЕпS. Tie togeйeT secuTely thе чрреr ond loweT thTeqds of еqсh Tow of sotheгs, qt еqсh end; pulling йе uppeT thTeod thTouqh to wтong side, i{ necessoTy. Апойет woy is to stitch qсrоss ends о1 rоws.

*4.

3, FдýтЕNING

*л.

GATHERS

sPдcING GдтнЕRs оп SнппING.

Dtvtde lhе secljon lo Ье qotheTed into [очт от mоте equol spoces, ond moTk with pins, notches. от cholk. Then divide into some пчmЬет of spoces the section to whiсh Йе gоthегеd рогliоп is to Ье opplied, ond mqIk it. AIter ýtitching gotheTs, pin йе two

sections oI fоЬгiс toselber, mqtching йе mотkiпqs. Рчll чр qotheT threods ondwind. ends огочпd о рiл. Bqste. 5. SТДYING GАТНЕRS. q. Cut stoy thе size уоч wish to con{ine йе gойегs in. Тцm rоw edges in qnd hеm siqy оп thе inside. Ь. Whеп о stoy is nol dеsiгеd, secule gqthels Ьу Tunning о smoll очегhопd stitch dilectly очег йе gotheTinq thгеоds. *в. сдтнгвs Ат д SЕдмLIм. Run еrql Tows of qotheTý so your Iulness wil1 lie flot. Spoce qotheIs. Stitch seom ond ргеss wiib edqes tоqlеlhеr.

SРАСING GДТНЕПS ОП SHInRING

l Ё{_

STAYING GАТНЕRS

GДТНЕRS ДТ Д

sЕдмпNЕ

RUFFLES AND FLOUNCES дPPLIED гLоUNсЕ with GATHERED HEADING. Тlrп edge dowr lhe,.vidlh о{ dеýirеd heoding, plus seom ollow ance. Moke two rows of gqtheTý obout

7в,lпсh opoTt. Boste flounce to poýition, spocinq qotheБ evenly, (See pqse З4). Stitch gotheTs, qs Shown. 2,

з.

дэРLYING CIRCULAR RUГFLЕ. Finish ioweT edge of Tuffle {iБt. Mqгk whете rчlflе is to с:o. Ploce lсrw edge of ruffle oiong this iine with outsides togetheT, ond ýtiich. C]ip soom edge os shown. рrеss seomline on оцtsidе. дРРLYING RUFFLЕ WITH BIAS. Pl<rce gqtheTed edqe of Tuffle between outside of {оЬгiс ond bios stTip. Stitch, then tdm qbout 7е iпсh fTom stitchjnq. Тum bios oveT these edges ond hеm down to iobTic. ДPPLYING RUГГLЕ WITH FДСING. Ploce ru{fle oTound edge of colloT от otheт qIticle to Ье Iqced, Ticht sides together, os shown, Bqste lo-,nJ ]п ploce on top of TuI{le, Stitch thToush ol] thicknesses. Ciip счгчеd edges ot

ДPPLYING ГLОUNСЕ WITH HEADING

ДPPLYING CIRCULAR RUГFLЕ

ДРРLYING ПUГЕLЕ WITH ВIДS

inteTvqls, then tuгп fqcing to Iiqht side_ Ргеss tuTned edqe. 5.

МАКING RUГГLЕS AND PLEATING. Whеthеr doinq this wогk Ьу hопd оr

Ьу mochine. {inish edse oI striр oI Iobric filst, гоI Tuchins, {inish Ьоth edses of Strip, then Iuп gotheIs in the centeTТНЕ SEWING MACHINE RUГГLЕR sews the lobl r. ,п lirtle p|eo s lhe sjz^

ql]d spocing oi whiсh соп Ье TeguIqted. The pleots mоу Ье pгessed оr Ieft in гufilе fотm. with this mochine qttochment о Tu{fle mоу Ье sоthеrеd qпd sewn on at the sоmе time, qs to the edge о{ q cuItoin. тнЕ GдтнЕRING FОоТ ol йе rlrц-

сhiпе mokes теqulот so{i qqthегs, (See Shirгiпq, poqe 34.

YLLййry

4. APPLИNG

ПUГГLЕ WITH ГДСING

USING SEwlNG мАснINЕ пUггLtrR

* Ц*r, Drовзвв сцrd SkirlB,

FоR MANY PURPOSES

ЪrсЦhtСчt

Гоr cotion Jсфriсs crrd firmly woven silks ond tcyolis, hеm, Гоr wооlепs, otheT bulky fсЬгtсs, crrd Йsilу frcyed mЫегiоtв, йе

the Blipstitched toped, cqtch-Stitched ог dесогqtiYg Stitched hgm. Fоr вhееrв, йе sitpstitched hеm оr one of йе ncrrow hеms.

Сiгсцlсц SLinя Тhе sliqhtly scthoгed ciTculo hеm Iоr mеdiчm tl,.elght JсфгiсS. тh9 decoIqtive Бtltched hem {оI Somý wооlепs cпrd fiтm lobdcs. Fог вhеегs, йе ncTTTow Bdso ýtitched twice, йе stitched ccrd Tolled hеm. от йе hсrтrd-гоllоd hеm. Fог Faced CirculoT Неm, see poqe 39.) CoctE qпd tcckets Fот фоSе to Ье lined, йе cotch-stitched hеm. Еот thoso unlined, *re tqped hеm от slipBtitched hеm, depending on Weisht of Iсъriс. &rlcnЫ Wеq Рот sheeTs сrпd silks, one о{ йе псгrоw hсrrrd llnlshes оr о shell hem. On urооlепs, the catch-Btitched hеm. Dcinty Uпdепrrэсr Hcrnd-Tolled hоm, sutchgd-edge hеm, siitсhеd crrd Tolled hеm, от

аЫI

hеm.

То8 Ойоr PutpoBeB сгr оррrорriсt9 finish Irоm cmong -Choose вhоwп in йе followins pcses. l (Sec Р. 2| |оЕ Homeinq siitсhgs)

STITGHEDEDGE НЕМ. Тчm the edse qrd stitch, йеп trrm osqin Фld hеm ln-

visibly Ьу

hcrnd.

Ьо_

tween thumb cцrd lоrеflпgоr crTrd cotch Toll in ploce; гоIl edge only о {aw inches checd of sewinq.

ýTITCHED дND ROLLED

чсrriеtу oI hэms

DECORДTIVE ýпTCHED EDGE. Pink фе edsa oI youT IсФгiс and tчm йе hеm сrпd pTess, Moke оs mсrпу TowB ol mqchino stitchlns os desfued-

2.'ндND BOLLED HЕlvI. Roll edqo

йе

нЕlл.

Моchlne-stltch У./' {гоm edse. Тrirп to Ув". Roll edge cr {ew inches between йчmь crrrd lоrеfiпsег. Cqtch rоll in plqce wtЙ slipstitchinq.

ý. NдяRоw нЕм TwlcЕ sflTcIlED, тчm гоw edse stitch cgdrn.

ctrrd

stitch, Тhеп lum cmd

0. мдснINЕ пIпNЕD шдпвоw нЕм. ву чsiпg йе hemming Ioot on the mсrсhiпе, уоur Iobтic WilI Ь tчmgd twice Фld Stitched in on9 ор€Iсtlоп.

SHFJ.T

НЕЙ

8. DдмдýЕ HElvI. Еоr toble ljлe . Tum crrrd сrеаsе с hеm; fold Ьqсk the hеm cs shown. Whip ,wiй tiny Stitches takinq up only опа ог two thтвоdз oI йе materiol.

Bosts. Use тчппtлs Btitch-

es, йеп toko two ýtiiches очоr odg9 qs shown.

МА8IШG ШЕАТ WIDE HEMS

dedl fo! с gý!m€пt, whtlо о ссэlбsslу Eodo ong Ь thе Фоt€ш's qlчбсrwоу. Morlc your Йб lэпqlЬ о' EolEgnt Фld m€о.чrе йе hero сllоwопса ,.riй о qouq6. TTIB tt €vally, ОВ Ir убч bcve your EqdB heE ollowonce too ncrтow ot опу polnl, р16с€ lt 1о й9 сог.6сt \ýrtdth. TrrTn hеlа, Ьбtп9;оIэft' to llnэ up йе sесmв, dnd bdst€ п€оr йе fold. гlпъh wldo hопs ов grvэn Ь€lоw. Мqkо hёпmЬg в tйgg pTccllcolly lnvfitble оп thе Tlgьt sido. but do lot sрdсб th€m too сlозеlу tоggtЬег, Boiуочт рчЦ йе йrеqd dsht, sevr wilh с ltqht hФtd. Рг€sý your Ьепs wtlh d dалрапёd cloth. вmооЙ_ hеm doeB о gг€оt

ёz-л,А l0. сдтснýтIТснЕD нЕIlл.

Wогkiпs frоm left to гight, cotch опе фreod fiTst ln the hеm йеп one in thе gctrm9nt in q dgzos loshion qs shown,

9. sцр-SпснЕD IlEl,t' Тчm

чпdgr гсw edse Фrd stitch. Then pin crrrd slipstitch down os shown.

*=--{=.,

I v

ll.

нЕммшG д PLEETED

12. нЕм IN свсULдR GODET. Meosurg

Cltp sеqm edges ct top ol фе hеm. Тчm your hеm crnd чsе the finish Ьest sulted to your SBJBT.

hem; boste qlопs tumins. Toke up fulnoss сrt top oI hеm Ьу tiny pleots qt Tesulcr intегчсIs. Fiпlsh wlй hёmmtпs stitch.

fqbтic.

14. TAPED HElrt тчm

lз. спсULдп

Ьstэ olong hцntns. II сtсчlсЕ, treqt йо sсrmе cs No.

ЕЕ}1 Gqфет йе

up hеm;

l3. Stitch rсw edgo to tctp€, йеп BllpBtltch os IoT ploln hаm. UBe tорэ olBo loт stIqlghi

fulneBB crrrd distrфute lt evenly. Shrink очt fuЬross orrd hеm os shown.

l\,oolan skfils, l7

BlNDlNG \

i_ \

А сlеоп cut, smooth ыпdiпg wiil do muсh to odd to the smогt орреотопсе oi youT lrock.

CUTTING ВIдS STRIPS. Го]d {оЬгiс So ihе cIosSWiSe threqd 1S poTcilel with the lenqthwise threod. The diaqonql IoId is о tlue biqs. see poge 12. Моrk widй

сuTTING вIдS STRIPS

iоr sirips ond cut. Join ýtIipý so the thTeod of ihe mqterioL is ратоIIе1; рIеss open, TIim extendinq coInels.

DoUBLE гoLD оR гпЕNсн BINDING. cut tlue bios brnding stIip Six times width oi {inished bindinq. Fо]d Iiqht ýide out thTougb centeT ond pTess. Join edges to Tight Side ot gоrmепl. тuгп to wlong sice ond hem to mochine stitchinq.

DOUBLE FOLD ОВ ГВЕNСН BINDING

SINGLE ВIДý BINDING. Use bios tope оr tTue blos striрs. Stitch fisht Sides togеthеr. Тuгп binding очег the sеоm to wlong side, tцrп uпdег rоw edge ond hеm io mосhlпе slilches.

вIдS тдрЕ BINDING. Encose edqe with blos tqpe, B(rste ond thёп siitch in ploce.

З.

SINGLE BIAS BINDING

BINDING SCALLOPS. Boste the bios to the scoIloped edqe holdins thе bios next to yorl. Eose the irinding очеr the crest с]nd hоld it ticjhtlY ot the соmетý. Stiicb ond tIim to within 7в" oI siitchins, BTing bindinq очег edqe сгпd hеm to mосhiпе Stitchinq,

PIPING SCДLLOPS. Cut о gouge о| сqrdЬоотd to outline уоur scoliops, Press scolloped edges oI уочт fоЬгiс oveT the gouge. Boste pipinq on ihе undoт ýide So о попоw bit of it out]ines the edge. Торstitch сlоýё to turned edge qnd рIеss.

4. BIAS тАрЕ

BINDING

BINDING SCДLLOPS

PIPING SсдLLoPS

FACINGS о

t. ЕДСING

о 4щйJ?iurizl

SCДLLOPS. Boste strqiqht

{ocing to ecge with outsideý toqether. Могk sсоllорs ond stltch, pivotinq needle ot inner point-ýtitch twice io reinfoIce. ТIiго to within 7в" of Stitchinq qnd clip in points

ond qlопql curves. Тчrп Jocing to insido чSiпg thе point of сt needle to get о smooth edge. Boste ond pTess, Turn the гоw edge

ord hеm lt

4. соNтRдSтING вдND оЕ sELг мд. TEBIAL. SmqTt in dоuЬ]е Ioced {obTics.

Clip thе seom с litlle below whеrе the hеm will соmе, Join sеоm in the hеm towoTd outside oi the gqImепl ond preýS it open. Fold hеm to outside опd bqste ot tulning. Stitch hеm close to thе edqo.

{lot.

5. вlдS FдсING FоR

2. FДСING НЕМ. Ртероте iqcing of tIuе bios. Join edges with outsides iogeihei.

PoINTED соRNЕв. pin bios locinq to moieriol with outýides tоgеLhег. Мilег the co,net ond ýljtch oureT edges tоgеlhег. Rцп dочЫе stitching. огоuпd соIпеI to pIevent floyinq ond tгim close to ýtitching. TuIn qnd hеm qs shоwп.

Рrеss sеqm ореп. Вгiпg fqcing to insido usinq Width oI sеqm os tuTning point. Тчm crnd stitch rqw edqe. Неm is shоwп.

conDED PIPING дND гдсING IN оNЕ. з. д PIPING AND гдсING IN ONE. Cut Cut q tгuе bios stTip ond fold the edges q true bios slIip ond рIеss lhе edqes undeT, undeT moking the fuIn on the 1oweT side mokins thе tum оп the loweT fojd twice twice оý deep as lhе uрреr {old. Encose os deep os the upper {old. TuTn iп the edse coTd ln uрреr Iold of bios strip; baste ond о[ yoLlT qolmo1l опd plq-o lh- pipinq So stitch close to coTd, usinq о coTdlnq 1ool, it extends obove ihot edse. Воstе ond stitch With outsides oI IоЫiс 1о(]оlhоr Slil..ll thru ъll thickness-.s, corded pipin.] io yoLlr I]l lI, r1,Il,

coRNERS l.

l. совшm WIпI ЕЕм о\'ЕпLдррIшG, Mcrrk the widф ol йе hеm Фld trlm mateTicl qwсrу to ]Miйin q ýесцп's width oI йе edse, Тчm in qпd Ьсrstе

сопNЕп wIпI нЕм очЕпLдррIýG

цt tuming. Неm tumed edse down qnd sllpstitch loweT edgвs tosetheг.

l_ 2.

|,.[\'-

MITEПED сопNЕп" Тчm оdsеs of pieco to Ье hemmed qnd сгеоsе hеm'в width. Cut diogonolly осгоss comer to withln Yl" oI hеm cTeose. Тum diogопqI edse чпdет. Тчm cnd sew hеm.

OveThqnd edses oI соmеr togetheT.

2. д

MITEBED сопNЕп

MITEПED СОВNЕR STПCHED ДND TпIMMED. Тчm hеm dsstrеd width. Stitch diasonqlly lnto comeт, tlim ond plesý ор€п. Tum edge in cк1d ccrtch edse down wiй hemming stitches.

соRшЕR гINISHED WITH BrAý Ек. ТЕNýIОN. Cut dioqonqlly into соmoI йе widй hеm is to Ь. Тum hеm crTrd ýtitch о ýaip (outsides tоsейеr) dicsопоIIу ocross comeT. Тrim to follow lines of hеm. Тum Tсrw edses 1п crrd hеm in ploce crs shown.

мIтЕпФ СОПNЕП'SПТСIIЕD дND

з.

TRIMMED

IIEMýTITCHED соRNЕВ. Мitег соmвг св explcdned lоr sketch 3. Rr.rn boýtlng of motchins coloT wheTe you wish hemstitchins to Ьа. Hemstitch oveT йis bosting.

мпшlNG тнЕ сопNЕп оF т мIvfiNG BAND. Тuгп sеqm qllowcrnce of

crnd ртвss. Shcpe соmег crrrd Btitc-h dibgonol}y as shown: T m close to stltchins сrпd ргеss open. Apply bcnd сtnd ýtitch close to edqвs. b<TTrd

СОПNЕR ГIМýIIЕD WITH вlлý t ЕrтЕNSIоN

нЕItлsтпснЕD

сопмп Jю

мIтЕшNG тнв еопNЕп TBMMED вд,лID

ог

PLAcKETS l. (ф

Two.PIEcE рLдскЕт

гоп

DRESS. Счt о blos stTip 3 inches wide orrd 1 inch

longel thоп plocket openinq. Riqht sideý tos.etheI, Stitch ýt ip to bock edge of opening. Тчтп Stгip to inýide ond fo]d thTough

сепtеI os shоwп, to fоrm on undeTlop. TuTn in fTee edge сInd Slip,Stitch to Seomline. Ъ) Гiпish fгопt wlth q fосiпq, cut 2 inches wide ond l inch longer thon plocket openins. (с) Sew plccket pleces toqetheI ot top ond boltom. Oveгccrst lсlw edges. Sew on hook, еуе ond snops.

CONTINUOUS LAP РLДСКЕТ

wo-9ltscЕ PLAсKET Fоfi DRESS

CONTINUOUS LДР PLACKET. (о) Snlp seom ot both ends of plocket. Cul q 2 inch wlde ýlTcishi stlip i inch longeT thon twico the lensth oI opening, Stqliins ot top, stiich ýtrip qlочпd орепlпg with lisht sides 1оsetheT. ф) Тчгп in fTee edqe ond hеm to рIосLеt stitching. (с) TuTn ln fTont роrt о{ lop. Sew ends of plocket ýtrip toqeйel qt top, Sew on hook, еуе ond sпо]эs. 3. рLдскЕт FоR SKIRT WITH WAIST" ВДND. (с) Fосе Iront edqe. Finish bock edse with оп underlop. (See No. 1). Ь) Sew endý oJ plocket pieces togeйeT ct bottom of opening. Дdd woistbond qt woiýtlino. Sew hooks oтl eyes to worsфond, Sew snops to plocket. 4. PLAсKET гов SкIBT WITH BELTING. Tum uпdеr Seom ol]owonce qi iop of Skifl. гqсо llont edge ond finish Ьqсk edqe with on uпdегIор (See No, 1), h]Tning in top end о{ plocket pieces. Cut bёLting to exqct Woist mеоýцIеmепi, plus ollowonce fоI finishinq. Тrцп undeT thе ends ond iell, Sew beltinq to ýkilt, Ieqvinq ends loose, Sew hooks ond eyes to belting ýо that ends о{ bёIting meet. Sew snops on p]ocket. 5. РLдскЕт IN А РLЕдт. Used most o{ten in infcnts' clothes. (d Slqsh desiTed length, Clip асrоss lоwеr end о{ slosh on equol omount еqсh side о{ сепiеr. Тhе епtiге Ienqth oI crosswiýo clipping deteImineý width oi Jinished hеm. Ь) гiпish еосh side oI slosh wiй hеm ond moke lop Ьу folminq с pleot. (с) Sew осгоss lower end. 6. SHOULDER PLACKET. Гlпlsh frопt edqe of opening with о Iocinq. Гinish bock edse with on undeTlop. (Тuгп in edge of Iqcing ond urdedop ечеп wlй пес< edge, qnd when plockei is Iinished, ýlip ýiitch these ends). Гqsiеп with Snops.

SHoULDER рLдскЕт

З. PLACKET FОП WДISTBAND

lNSlDE

SKIRT WITII

oUTSIDE

РLДСКЕТ ГОR SKIRT WITH

PLACKET IN А PLEAT

BELTING

SLlDE FASTENERS The slide fcstener grесrtlу simplifies the finishins о' о plocket, crrd glves с neсrt, smooth lino (tt the side of а феss. Buy G fqsteneT ol йе length specifled fir yorrT Du Всrтгу рсttегп. If Iог сrrду Teoson you wish to use о dilfelent lёпgth, chqnqe lefiqй ot орепiпе in gcrTment to соггеsропd. Whеп fqsteneT exqctly motches уоrrr gqгment; _уоч mсгу mqke йе plocket Ьу the slmplijied mеthod. tf йе fоstепег does'not mqtch perfectly, ог il you do not wiýh it to show, use йе }cpped, coiceoled mейоd.

ýlмрцпЕD sцDЕ рLдсхЕт

loldinq bcck ёdqes'o' plockot

орёпiпЕ оп с ltne wlth ýёсп. Pln foýtoneT fiqht sido do,$.n ovвr lnstdý ol opantnq. cotch_Btltch tл pl.ice, dб ,ýhown. b€illq sчтё to }еёр gоrmепt ёdqбз ln llne on th9

РЬss ор€п sldэ заоm of 9Ф_ Elёпt, to plocket op€ntnq. МФk ofi sёоm оIlоwопс€ оп ecch ýtdэ of piqctвt. cut q {ýciDq BEIP the

lengtb of tope and (sout l7. iпсhеs'оstепеr wide, Вqзtе fqcinq to {топlеdgЬ oI рIосkёl openinq оп ouiвldo ol qcrrrвnt. Slttch. Тчm focing to inýid€, спd Ьсýtё os shоwп. Tum tn bccL-edqe of

oPentdg У{ incb Ьвуопd гдотk€d веов ollowonco, зо thct сп чп. dегЬр ls foTBad. Ртёsý. вdýъ. ff youT malertol ts wlгу).

рLдlN sEnM

Reoove Pins, Тшп drэбs 19 гigЫ Btde ond rчп с boзtinq to forв о slоts€оm e{Iecl joт tbo slidег,' os shоwп. Beqin bostinq

lИ

опd

tп9Ьеб Ь€lоФ

top oI fоýl6пёт

Уа iпсh сгФсгу fтоm вёоrл line. shope чрреr ёпd пФсоýýсýу,

to mсLэ тооm fоr lob.

СОNСЕДLЕD SLIDE РLАСrЕТ

2. Тшп 9Фаопl lo

S|itch fготl risht sia€ ot d!€зз, съвб to boýttng. Uýe йе cýrdinq

foot of уочr sowinq mqсЬiпФ iэ ,moke 1hls Pqгticulo.Iy ёсsу. R€вочэ oll Ьсзt'пgs ,.ond ргёýs Ploctёt. FоStепет vriu Ь сопсэqlеd, bui not зо соФрlеtэlу сз tn с loppёd ploc&ei.

LДРРЕD CLOSING

rlqht -ýld6.

Plgce slidё foýtener шldэ,

ор€п-

inq, rlqht ýtdФ чр, Фd Ьrins bockedg€ oI opening сlовё to

tёбth. Pin to poýition. ЬоБtе, thоп 'ostaвeT siilch close to edge. UEe the c!Tdlng оп уочт зеч7iпq mойtпб wьап'ool slil. ino tn d ýIjda fdstAnar Hovinq опlY Ъпа pTonq, tt оIоws thб п€€dlо to сбm€ сlо!ег to foвtaneт tееlh. It йоkёs йе wort so

Фчсh еоЕЬ, lhct it ь \rёll \лrоrй thэ utilэ irочЫ€ of сhо.9iп9 ct 42

з.

дfteT €titchinq

ьссЁ-еdqо. сlовё plqck€t pбTfectly опd Pln tt to posltlon. Bcýt9 olonq clostnq llло. then согеtчllу Ьqstё fгопt oI ploclet to fоstепаг tорФ. F.ЬоIn outýide of

goImont, slitch fюпt oI placlol to fобtапё! tap6, оs shоwп. If йе

slidвT

lob is loige, Лсоа йе

ýtilching (rwcy

о liitl9 ct

1Ьо 1ор

ol йё p]ockoi to поkё гооm for it. Rеmочё qu Ьqýliпg€ бld р.оss ploclet. It вhочld Ье smооth'Фd пёаt, with сэчёrоd.

й€

fоýlепФ

\л,€u

SLlDE FASTENERS

In mспу other wсгуs besides in plockets, Slide FqsieneTs hсгve done q greqt deql to ,mqke cloйes SmqTteT, eosieT to get into ond очt о{, сrпd eqsier to mqke. Whеп сqтеJully put in, they give q cosiume о linished, pTofessionol оiг. In оррiуiпч с Slide Fоsteneт to спу opening, печеI cut o{I the end tqpeý. At neckline от otheI points WhеIе th9y might show, conceolthеm in q соllоr, от lold bcck into Iocing, When usins о Slidg Гqstепет on heovy fobTics, it iS odviýoыe to mcke lacings о{ Some liqhteT weight mqtching moteTiol. Use the coTding loot oi уоuт Sewing mochine When Stitching in q Slide FqsteneT, cnd еоsе fоЬгiс sliqhtly to Гqstenel. DecorcliTo Slеёчо Fqаlепеr LДPPED РLДСКЕТ ГОR SKIRT This metbod mоу olso Ье qdapted fог use in sleeves

thon slide моrk oli 'оstбпеr, зёсп allowoilcg оп еосh side of Plocket орепiпq with о line of

edqe oI openinq. Воstб опd ргеSs. Тчгп 9огmёп1 1о ,igh sjde. С]оsё S]ide foýtane, ond р]п it iп ptoce under bock-эdge oI openinq, (тор ol IcsieneI should соmб qьочi Уl inch betow top oI plocket

Put in Iсýlепэr beIoTe opPlylng bond oI Ы1. cut о ldсlпq l У, iпсhёý v/ide ond 1 iпсЬ 1оп9ет

bcýttnq. Stjich lосiпq to of of qогP]ocket oPeninq, on outsid€ 'ront mапt. тчrп io inside, dld bosle

Tu.n in

openinq

bock-odqo о1 plocket

У. inch

Ь€уопd sеоп1 Liпe, so ihot it lops чпd€г ftont

Меоsчrэ oll lепqlh of slide Ios1епег on sleeve seom, ond ýlаsh sеоп diogonolly ot this poinl, cofiy" inq slоsh о ýcont yr iпсh beyond seom. Тчтп bock the edges ol oP€n-

WoTktng fгоm ibe wгопg side ot ýIeeve, bostg Iоslёпёr tope io sides of орепiпg, holdinq tuтned,bock sеоп ёdgеs Iг€е lгоm 1hб sIёечо. Tlrn tорё епdý bock ot lh€ boitom ond tock.

Sttlch ýidos olong bostinq, oqoin holdinq seom еd9ёý {rеё {rоm ýloeve. Boste tope ends to edqe ol opёninq ot 1ор, qпd sijtch осгоsý twice. hоld. inq Irё€ fгоm S]еёче.

Uslnq соIdiпq fooi on й€ ЕосЫпе, ýiitch bock-edge cf pldctet cloý€ to fсýtепеr tФethJ thеп ýlоý6 p]octet, lopping fuonredge Иа iпсh over bock,edge, Boste otong closing liпе. Тчгп gогmепt to wтong зidе. Воslе {osieneT tope to 'топt о1 орёпiпg. Тuгп qогmепl io Tiqht зldе ond stilch front 6dqe oI орепlп9 to foýieneT tope, kэерiпq siilch ing closв io loýtener tбеih, Ргбss рlссk€l.

quord чпdог tene!, use'оЬгiс а ýelvedqё ýtrip of 'ostbo d.ёýз hdlёrld] 2 iпсhёз widё ond l lпсh tonqer 1hоп iоstёпег. гоld lenqihwise йiоuqh сепiег, Фd Siitch o1onq fold. воstё qu@d ove, fоStепег with ýеlчёdqе еdqё оп top, ond even with bock-ed96 ol fоstёпеr tope. sliich quогd io bock-edge ol tope cnd осгоss bolh endý, holding topa ov,oy fгоm

Еоr

4з

3. Finish bollom о{ sl66vФ wilh о locinq widc enough lo covo( lopo Thiý пlоlhоd Iпl1Y olýo Ьо o.iopiod

for in5ofum, оп oxPonod nll(to iопог oi lho ond ol .rlly iooпl, 'о.

SLIDE FASTENERS sЕдмпшс 8lYLЕ 8ов содrs дпD ticxEtý

ТЪе есsу ond n€qt

чrоу to oplly

tыэ tур€ о' to ,Ф.} wtch tt ln Ьоме€ п Йе '! €dqе о{ 'сtэtёпвг йё ggrmэпt lюпt спd йб lоdлg.

тчтn чпdФ йе sэаm'ollow_ опсо on ьoth stdоs 'oI йб front {осiпqs. ьсsto о foctng !о tорs оп ёосЬ зidб of cLoSED fоslбп€г, Pl(lctnq tho чтоrrо .ld€ of thё, top€ cgqinsl tho wтoni sidё of

йё

&lng €dq€ ol fdclnq сlФб'dсlпq. to fdбi€пеr lgэй. !. '

Есýtёа lоwэr end ol lоilбпGr icpo з€сuт€lу lo {ocing Gt €ссh 8ld€. I Tпetcl ёубlеъ о.в ргс

vided.

drф d

рЪсв of

вtгопq lФрб thточqь hоIё Фtd ьоstё бпds of lcp€ lTf posltion, sо lhot Йбу

wtll Ь cfirqhi Ьу lhe Btitchin; whап yoll зtllch fcsl€n6. lп plqcý. Ог you mсу saw thrочqh фб Ьо1€ wlth о sЬопq 1hrаоd. If

Iсstgпёг lr not linlвh€d wlth melcl €ndý, whlp thэ Iоw€г эdqэ of lgEtэ fiтnly to foclnq.

йе

тчm чпdе!

tnch mоIё lhqп

s€оm qllоwФlсэ '6

бdqo of

gcým€nt,

Ьсstg

fIont crnd

рrбsв.' I,oy Ьtепбr <r!td ottochбd fосlлЕ |п Plcce uпdё! оп€ эd9ё о' gсtпlent, Ьrlлqlпg qorб€nt ёdg9 сlоgё to lcgtoner tвбrh, ond ь6зto, ToРBtitch сlоsв to €dq€ ot fоЪrlс. Lэovtng fоýtёпбг cLoSED, ьdýlэ оlЬаг gогm€пl €dqg ln Ploc6. Орёп fiэ fовtвпбг. Тор зtltch boaled ёd9ё. Сопсеоl tcp€ €n& ln пёсk fiпiзh

'озtёпбт tt ls d€slr€d io hG!в fdstепаr сопсgсlэd, tчm uяdо! only lh€ sеqm оuоwопсо on ьont d€ q€B о[ сс1!rlэпt. 1Ъоп. whёп ld9i€пет lý put ln plqc€. йоsэ edgaB should Ь hочqht to cont$ of m€ldl.

, 'If

ýмрцпED росЕЕ! wтпl ýчDЕ гд8тЕцЕR

1. Tum pouch pt€ca

ihrough

ýlсзь lo lnslds oI qo.m€nl. ьgg, Рlосэ ýude-foslenвT оYбr ор9пlл9, on iDýidё ol qогmапt, опd Ь,оstё.

l. cul с

рочсь рlёсб loт lhэ росtэi twlсэ й€ lбпgй you чrlбh ihё рочсh to Ь pluв 2 iпсhф, Mcal opantrg for росkбt 'ИЬЬёd on 9ФФёпl. Rlght зldеs toqath€r, ploco one эnd ol pouch рlбсо &l poýltlon оч€г Еюс}€l sоr].. cnd оп tt mоLб d uпэ lndicdttno Poclei op€ninq, slilф и tпоЁ

ёссh ýtde of mФkinq, ond octoвs €пds. Slosb сs shоwп, cllPplnq didqonqlly to сотпФs oI ýtllchlng.

Tlrrn gqrmепt to \lуIons sidв, wbtp ёdq€s ol topq to pocket. in holI с! 'i€э Гold рочсh 'оýtопбr бhоwп спd зlltсЬ Qdq€s tоqейё!, holdlвg феrп frв€ fюlo gоIФвлt.

Тчm gсsmепt to ltqht std€ /0. cnd tорsulсh cEound росk€i ор€пlп9.

сlоэ€ to fqst€n€r,

urlno

ih€ cordtng fool. If пэс€sзсгу, Пqто 8tllcbing ст.су о litl16 ct tcb €пd. ц

Тhtý tyPo of Pocket Ь чsчсUу mqd€ foT omýrDenlcl puTposes.

оlйочqh tt ho! ч€гу ргосliсýl vt!iчё.. тhб з]ldэ fозtэпбr шýа.l

эЬочId Ь d dgcoIotlvo опэ. of вчttсфlв style бld colo!.

lоI

MEND AS YoU

lRox mitl MENDlNG тАрЕ

GOOD ДDНЕSIОN depends upon the ртеsы.tгв you cpply lмiй о hot lron,

Ап iтоц ls consideTed hot фе moment it sizzleý ct tho touch of q moistened fiпgег you must рrэss down hсчdl SffIicient tlp. RоmэmЬI don't гчЬ lt on - for heot to penehcrte. On счогсsе р€тссlеs ог ginghcmls, time must Ь crilowed six seconds is obout йе coгect tlme. Несчlег fоJэгlсs roqulTe q faw soconds mоге йсrr lighteT ones. Detemiлa sесопds Ьу countins l0l. l02, l03, etc. WЪеп mending, cui tqpe lcгqe enough to extend well pqst сrёс to Ь mended, ROUND ТНЕ СОRNЕRS . . . thls is importcmt. Дwсуs ploce shiTry side down. гоI sheels, well wom fqbгics от сrгtlсIеs thot must wiйstcцrd stTenuous lqчпdегinqг, it is btter to use Mendins Тсрв оп Ьой sides. Еот ptle fobrtcs, cpply to smоой side.

MEND Д ТЪВВ ОВ ПЕINFОRСЕ Д WOBN SPOT

Cut сwсу ol} the frcyed ог Ьчmеd

Cut circIe fгоm рсрег йе sйs ol

SPEED DПЕýSМАХING ДND HoMEIIIAKING

еdgеs ol the IobTic to mqke q nect hole.

EoLD РLЕдтs. моls PleýB, й€д р!еss рl€сеs oI M€.dlnq Торе qсовв йеh Ьock to hold й€m босч!еlу ln рlос€. Wqtch hо\, фоу hold йei! йсрбl

hole. Use рсрот pqttёm to cut q patch

ftоm q mcrtchins piece {о mcrteTiql. Smоой down edges of hоlе wiй hot ,lTon so ihqt no loose thTeqds shоw'

EIND 8ЕДМl. Дfiег веwlпg с seor!, bind rcry ёdgеs wiй q stlip of Мопdiлg Торе. Ercellent

lог piбcing ldьticв tоgsйе., too.

пЕlмоRсЕ Росltгs.

3. Pctch muýt fit into hole perlectly. Tum unШ you mctch Йа wасче ol the mсtегiqL

Ргечепt с.оЬз oi tools ilom lrrеqтiпg holes thюuqh Eockets. Ploc€ о

stгiр ol Mendinq Тор€ ot pointg oI extTd 1уеФ. Rёiпlогсе .Еюсl€ts ,whе!€ репs oltd р€псilg aцб сilгтlёсL

4. Счi с piece о[ Mending Торе in mqtching соlог, гочпd thе edges ссrе. fully, Рсrtсh must extend well beyond фе motched edqes of hole,

млЕЕ вIптош ýIlYý. RеiпJогса fоЫiс оп wrопg side wiih гочпd Diесбз ol Mending Тсрs ЬеlоIе soтing оп bujlorв.

5, Ploce shiny side of Mending Торе ogoinst wTong side of fqbTic (inside of gсгтmепt). PRESS, don't rчЬ,_ with hot iTon. Allow to cool, Ior odhesion tokes ploce duTing the cooling.

моПоGмll8 aND

IPPIIQUES, MoLB lпlэrбвdпg р<rttеmз wtй Mendtng Тdро Ьу ustng !ёчэгоl соlогs - combined. Мопоgrcm! (loP шч5.) сге- dёсогсttvе lo, ыочsеt, poc1.1., dtcktgs, мь, llnens опd chtld!6n'r сlоthlлq.

6. You поw hcve с nect, smooth qlmost invbible mend. Strопgег йсrr ечег crrd

WдSнрRоогl

DETAILS ABOUT

l. то SET iN А рlдIN sLEEvE. о, luгn finished

1о гiqht sice, TuTn to wlcnq side. Set

2, А

REMEDY

rоп

RESTRIсTED

s]e.ve 1п оппhо.., паiсhiпq n.tches, plc.e tcp ot sboD]de, s-ёоп, моiсh uпdегilm seolns,

лRм

MovE_

MENT. Let orlt uL]e|ol:n Sесгl on blouýe опd slеечё IIv U о.w l/,,,о]е lh., .,oll l , }о,l o.Jl р,поу Ье

.,, l].-l,,ol!, l оl- -.l.п9 oui qогmепi ocd lcnqlr io uп.]егогm sесп os ýbown, se_. po.jos б on.l 7 f.. otlrёr s]eev. ollerdlions. ho, r

,|,

,-'

З.

EASING А TIGHT KIMONO SLEEVE WITH Д GUSSET Whеп 1hс uпdегс|m s.an is ioo sholl to PerDil уочг огm to Ье rсisеd, о_ S1.I5h obout З". os shoыn. <пrd Stit.h oloull] oPenilq. Ь, Sct in о поtсhiло c]iomond_ , j р, , , ,S Во l. jl i, cj.1 Ill.n q.,.-"_ tesliпg оrm movcment Ье{оге Stit.hinq.

SHoulDER PдDS ('Гr]спqlе sьорэ.i) cut two 6'' Бс]uоrеs ol п!ýilп, Р]осэ со1l.п botling betlye.n, mokjnq it Фb.ut ]]n'' 1b]ck ot сепlег ond velv lhjп di ,ll

о _.J ,l,,, h j.а,о] n,ly, (о/ лI\ п, l:o, i :\ p.cs 1о оlmhоlе on.] Shсuidег s(:oms, as sЬэWп, 5. SHouLDEB ýTIEFENING. cut two сIlis...ёпls olout 6" ].па {rom 1h... dгi|ss li ,, Р,о - ,, ., ,,,. l ,, гiqh sldes псl.h]rq orlc оп 1ор р]осе 1h.-. sl]Ilc]]]n.T EoSIe ond slri]h' ;.o,]n,] , -о Sh,,,,,i,,r,r d o, 1l,

7. IooPS

AND BUTToNS. о, Га.е ]о!чег eiq. onj open;nq nilcIillq согп.rS. Ь, Гоslсп wii) ]oo.s dnd

then stiichj to reinJorcё stilch 1w]ce, с. Press icp oI ovel о toil.is сushiсп,

WITH UNDEBLДP. Foce ]оvеr edqe of {гопt edge ol орспп9 wiih bics bindjnq locinq Ь, mileIinq ссrпёг. Гiпish Ьdсk.ес]qё wilb on чпdег]ор, Гоslеп w]th sпорS,

IElDs. Tcck

on]!

thr.u.rh оutег edqe, печег in c.nlcl Sёо!л, Foýten соrпегs

t] arп}].l.] i]гsi, then opel] cnd io.L to 1Ье Sеоп oI slcrve ond b]cuýe, os shоwп ]f d{j.]tec, sЬiёtСs поу Ье рiлпеd 1() Sеоms.

9. WITH WRISTBAND.

Гхris.] !I..чс oРaninq Wjth hеfu о. c.ntilDous iqF, Ivloke 1vaiýtt.nd s]]qhllу loTqe. thJn wrisl. Gаlhсi lоli.г edqe о1 sl..ve io f]l wrist bond. 1.,п Sla.ve iс,IiSl]jcnd.е sh.Wл, r0. SLEEVE WITH СДSING. Г]п]sЬ lоwег ecqe with hеm cosiltg, leovirq о smoil орепП1., 1oI ihe iпýег tjon oI e]osllc, Inselt e]ostic ог use о dгоwslriпq,

}

t Е

rt ь

О О NEW CLOTHES

FROM OLD

Yоu will печег know whqt posýbilities йете qTe hidden сrwсгу in уочr closet until уоч tqke lnventбry qnd mqke о plon, Look thTough ечегу stitch Yоч own qnd don'1 рgss uр onyйins thot isn't obsolutely Teady to fcll qрýrt . . . one little piece mcry Ь good IoT tгimmiпg, In mokins combinotions, evon consideT the possibility oI hqving йiпчs dyed Iоr hcTmony, Now list йе gqTments you need cцrd fisщe how you ccrrr mcke йеm о{ the good mоtегiоl уоц hove found... check over the sugsestions below, just fог q stqlteI. qnd other ideos will соmе to уоч. Rip очt hems ol gсrгmепts to Ье mode очоI <rпd hcrve йеm cleqned; 1hen completely Tip йеm iI феу сrе to Ь епtiIely тесцt.

нЕ EAS тнЕ GooDs оN Dдr) Even йочsh the weok spots сrте ovoided, Dods' wоrп oveTcoqt ссп mqke qп ovelcoqt ond о poiT

of mqtching shoTts iоr Iunior. Дп oid skiTt often

{umishes еооцgh sood

mqtегiql Io. blouse-

wсiгm

ln Iqying pottem pieces

оп the gоrmепt Seclions Ье сФеfu} to hсrчо tho

gтcin exqct]y Tis,ht, Веlow is о suggested plon for Te-cuttins th9 очеIcoqt. П iS wise to lсгy out йе entire pottern Ьеfоrе Ье-

sinnins to cut out йе new qоrmёпt.

Gо то АNY Iдt{GTIt гов SlsтЕR Е r, Ьпsйепiпq Sistег's clolhes cS she shооts л-/ь -7 uD is no оrоЬiеm. An ,/2р-Ь l ,:iq ф:* 9f ;ouT1

",(4rЖ

hетs, от even the scrqp Ьсч, will usuoliy IuTnish enouqh qood mqteflql td iпSегt smqTt сопtrqsЬ irio bqnds obovo от сri фе hemline. Moke о blouse ot one old sorment cnd а pinofoTe oI onotheT {от о spriqhtly; Ьгqпd

new outfit. con

slder йе possibil! ty of iчmретý, too Dresses fоr фе чеrу liiile giII, cnd suitý 1от йе littlё 'эоу. cqn olten Ь Trode frоm сшr old ;hiTt, от cr combi, :lqtion of two ol Ьm. Мойег's oid .Oqt9 qnd suits cqn fumish, йеm wilh coqt moieliql.

пЕчдмрIttG DдY-TIME cLoTlIES . . . тоNшq DoWN DRESýY гпосЕý

ffi

fýt J эLl ь}!

sl€€чэs ond чпdегоIms wоm out? AIt dght, clrt them out! cnd mole уочrsёl' о iumperl Use lh€ qood pqrt ol (Eюihёт old dгоsз Б rnoke о ЬЬчýе {о. it. Thct tiil! Boii уоч'чэ wопlеd соп Ье mode ftоп о Фоп's Euii. Роrtiопё

ot оп o]d ýwеоlбr whos€ зi€очеs dгё wогп thrочqh cqп rерtосё Йе woln оr outФoded soctioný of d drеss, tл о fоshiопоЫе way. othe.'pons of lhё sчfеаt€r ccn mоkё ElttёrЕ fог som9body. sсторs lefi f.om о rо_счt cool will oft€n m6!€ d hопd boq or о Ьоопiэ. a1

Ev€ninq dTeýseý оrё seidom wo.n out, спd !hбу usuol]y fчrпiýh pl@nty о{ mоiегiаl fог о соmрlеt€ т+ cuttinq Job, Mote lhem ove! tnto new, епtiгеtу dil. fётепt doytiйe dTёsses, Loce kоm cn o]d dопсё frосL сqп moke thб sleeveý ond Yoký oi о new dгеý. sоýhеý, ýсqrls ond ýчсh сол Ьв uýed 1оr tha всmа рцrроsо о! loт tтimming tочсhеS. cul oll |hё extTo ienqth oI о grcduotion drезý ond чs€ lt to mоkэ ýleevФ (rnd о dickgy.

п,rнпrl

WEIGHTS, FАSтЕш l шсý I.

SРДСING ДND SEWING ОN BUTTONS. с. Мсrгk spocing with pins. Ь. Ploce pin очег button mrd sew oveT рiп. Rеrпоче pin ond wind йrsоd цпd9I' button, {огmiпg q Stem. Гоstеп secйely. с. SevETol dесогсtiчё wc(ya to sew on buttons.

2. sтдYЕD BUTToNS дND TAPED

BuT_

TONS. Вчttоцs йqt rcceive skqin should Ь9 sewed on with о ýtсrу, с, А smojl button used on ihо wTong side. Ь. д smoll pieco of IobTic от topo plcced on йе wTong side crrrd sewed

,@@"@@ l. SРДСING ДND SEWING ОN BUTToNs,

with button. с. Тсре ог blas coTd mоу Ье used to Join link buttons от to {osten single buttons. Moke Ьiоs соrd qs Ior {obTic loops. (See pcge 52), Tum hr onds crrrd whip Ьеfоге ottqching to link buttons.

3. гАNсY

BUTTO]NS. cr. Shcrnk buttons shочld Ьо sewed on with heovy thгеqd, qs shown. Ь. Buttons wiй eyes qt bottom should ьs sswed on очеI о mcrtch stick, феп {inished with q wound stem. с. Rеmочоые buttons qrе held Ьу embToideTed eyelets. (See poge 49). d. Hcrrrqtnq boll buttons оrе fostened with q ГTench-tock. (Seg poqe 49).

4. с. ТНRЕПD LOOPS. Меаsчтв sizo

ol button. Sow soveTol stTonds oI thTeod on edge ol {qЬгiс. Wоrk ысrnkot stitch очаI stonds: чsiпg needlo eye_[irst. Ь. LINK BuTToNS. Rчп threod фrоush two butions; йеп wolk oveT йTecds with blcцrket sЁtch, using needle

2. sтдYЕD BUTToNS. TAPED BUTToNS eye-fust.

5. COVEПED BUTTOI{ý. Гот podding, cut с piaco ol musll].I or flcIrrnol sliqhtly IогgёI

top oI button mold. Еот covering, cut о сiгсчIсг рlасэ о{ IоЬгiс just 1qT9e enough to completely сочег button, ond mqke q Iiпе amлing stitch сrточпd edse. Ploce роddiпч on mold, put Ьой on {оЬгiс, сгnd Фсw up t}rTeod. Whip edses oI fоЬriс toqether. ffou ссп hсrче buttons сочётеd Ьу machine {ог о few cents реr dozen). 6. СОVЕаING Д BUCKLE. Lcy buckle on Iobrtc crnd trqсе сгочпd it. Мсrk ofi suI{icient seom ollowqnce cmd slqsh сотпеrs qs shown. cctch-Stitch ftont coveтing to position. Дррlу bockins wiй qdhesive от vfhip in ploce. thсгrr

3. EANсY вIптоNs.

,li \ I

тнпЕдD LooPs, IJI{к вUттоNS.

5. covERING д вUттоN. .в

,!}

6. covERING д BUCKLE.

ýEWII{G ОN SШТДРý Usе gcuge to зрqс€ sпорs. Sew sncps очеr crBd очеr йточgh опе hole, ссrrrу threod r:ndeг 8пqр to next holg.

2. с. То мА!Е д

Еf,ЕNСН ТАСК То]се seveTql loose stitches belv,,een youT fоЬгiс piecas. WoTk с blanket stitch очег йе йIeods, using the need]e eye-{iTst.

\9,

ь. сЕдIN ТАСЕ. Toke

sачёrql Ь(г stitchos iц one pieca oJ fqbTic to stqrt. Push еуе end о{ needle ttrToush Ьсц, Iогmlпg q loop, ond woTk choin stitch qs shоwп. Гiniýh Ьу pullins tbeod oll йе wсгy йточеh lost loop. Use thTeqd end to tqke вgчегql fqýtenins stitchos in оЙеI pioce oI fсфгiс.

SЕwlNG оN st{APs.

3. с.

ГДВRlС ЦNGЕпIЕ SТRДР. Mcke пспгоw stгор ог use Tibbon. Sew one hqll ol strcp to secцrr liпе sесчлеlу. Sew one hol{ oI snap to fostened end. Sеw ойеr hqll oI sncrp to loose end,

Ь, ТНRЕДD LINGEBIE SТRДР. Use heow silk оr cotton twist. wоrk choin ýtitch desiTed iепqй ond Icsten tn опо side of sncp. Sew ойег Side о{ snqp to Sgcrm.

EMBBOIDERED EIEIýTý. McTk eyelet wlф {ine outli]:Ie stltches. Рйсh ho]e with stiletto. Then work оч9I edss wiф oveтhcrnd stitch (с} от ыоп}еt gutch фL

FRЕNсн тдск дND снАlN lAcK.

з.

цNGЕfuЕ s,IпдрS.

5. сочЕRING дltD АтIдснII{G

WEIGIiT. Епсоsе weight in fobric. Дttcch weiqht wtth сhсiл ýtitch. Гоr bottom of skirts от сосв, qttoch weiqht With ovgIhcErd ýtltchos. Encqýe weights Ьу the усrтd in псгrоw hаm,

6. нооЕý

AND EIES. с. On meettng edges. sew thе еуе so йсt it extends sllеhЦу over опе edge. Sеw hook bcck fгоm adse. Ь. on Icpped еdчеs, sew hook clcse to edgg oI очаrIcp. Sew еуо bock ftom edsB ol undeTlcp. с. То mqke а йгеоd еуе оп о lopped closlng, tlTeqd on йе чпdоrsэw sечетql strcrтtds ol 'WoTk очеr Strcnds wiй Icp, bock frоm edgo. Ыспkеt stitch, using needle oy+fiTst. Ьw hook песц edge о{ очегIср.

8 a.

ý. ноокý дIlD ElEý. aс

DмЁноrDЕRдD EYELETS.

MAKING EXPERT l.

МДППING ГОП ВЧТТОNНОLЕS ДND BUTTONS. q. Mcke q gсгцgе to mqIk distance frоm edge of goTment to outeT end oI buiionhole qnd spqces beМeen buttonholes.

Ь. M<rrk with pins wheTe button ts to Ь ýewn undeT thе очtёI end о{ buttonhole.

l. мдакING гоR BUTTONHOLES ДND BUTToNS

CUT Д TEST BUTTONHOLE in scTcp of mcrteliol to use cs с guide in mсtтkinq buttonhole lёпqй. cr.

ь. мдвк BUTTONHOLE with line of bost_ inq or toiloI'g chqlk.

i*э**f 2о

2ь

ТЕSТING BUTTONHOLE дND

мдпкING

BoUND BUTToNHoLE WITH гдсlшG q. cut с piece of mqteriol stToiqht от biqs, lЗ/с" wide qпd 7z" lonqeT thqn buttonhole is to Ье. Boste on gqTment oveT molk, Tiqbt Sides Togelheт. Sliich yB" obove qnd below bosting ond qсrоss ends,

!ij::..:-ý эi

ь. slosh qs shown olld tчrп binding piece to wTong side. с. Moke о pleot ct ends on inside, lolminq

3с

о piping on outside, wiih edges meeting; bcsie. Stitch tгiсIпqчlФ piece ot ёпdS to pipinq оп inslde. Sew mote-Tlol invisibly lo stitchinq о{ butionhole.

linDE

d. Slqsh fccinq undeI buttonhole openinq and slip-stitch от hеm down to buttonhole. е. showins finished buttonhole Iгоm Tisht Зр

З.

side.

о!тs!бЕ

BOUND BUTTONHOLE WITH FДСING

4. BoUND BUTToNIioLE WITEoUT д гдсlNG

с. Cut piece о' mаtегiql, Stгqight оI biqý, IY+" wide qnd %" lопsег lhсrn Ьчtlопhоlе is lo Ье, Boste оп goтment очеr mqгk,

4ь

sht sidёs tosetheI. Stitch Ув'' qЬоче ond below bos,ting ond qcToss ends.

Ь. TuTn in ends qnd slqsh on line mqlking.

о{

с. TuTn binding piece Io wTong side,

BOUND BUTTONHOLE WITHOUT д ЕдсlNG

d. Тum undeT Tow edges oI bindinq piece and whip ta line of Siitching. 50

PIPED

с.

вUтгоlfiIоtдs

Cut епочgh bios бг stгcight-ýtIlpE У.'' wlde {от otl the Ьчttопhоlеs.' Fold lenqthwise Tisht gldo очt cпrd stitc:h Уs'' frоm lolded edqe, TTim rсw edqes to Y,dthin 7о" ol stitchlnq.

Ь.

Cut two lensйs oI stTips Уа'' tопgег йcrrr the buttonholo орепiпч. Plqce stтlps

on outsido о{ gcrment wit]r тсгw edges on line oI buttonho]e. Stltch qlons stitchins о{ tho striрs, йе lепgй of the Ьчttопhоlе opening.

'с

с. Slosh йе

buttonhole opening, cs shоwп, {тоm the inside о{ gотmецt. d. Tum piptng saipE thrочqh slcshed opening to tnside о{ gorment. Stitch tri_, crrsu]ql sections crt ends to рiрjлg. о. Showins linishEd buttonhole q{tеr end gtitching hоg been соцrрlоtеd. д coTd mс14 Ь encqsod Iп stгiрs befce

йЬ

buttonholo

PIPED

вUттоNноIл

mcda.

woB8ED вUттошЕоlЕ

Mork exqctly on йтеоds of goods.

Mochino stitch twice qTound mcEking os shown. Счt on mcпked ling with shФр .scissors от Ф) mcвk Ьчttойоlе, mork depth oI buttonhole wiй stTqnds oI ttгead. Cut buttonhole on c9nteт mоrk. OveTccst.

с.

WоIk dqht ta left Iйth bt]ttonholo Stitch cs shоФlr.

Moke

мо

stitchбs qcToss

gnd о{ buttonhole,

йс

lnsido

о.

Work очэr gnd-stltches crrrd through

Buttonholos

thэ cloth to сФврlеtе Ьсг.

Ьсrr at

wonKi:D..BIrTioNEoLE

mсу qlso Ьо mcdo wlth

эссh end-

TДILOBED WОПЗЕD ЕUТТОNIIОIЛ

tr.

Мсrтk lепqф о{ buttonhole crrrd punc}r hole at очtеr end wlй о stiletto.

3а

ь.

зь

Счt on m<rTked line qrrd очетсоst Ьой edses cEId cround punched hole.

с.

Wогk buttonhole flom riqht to lёft oveт coTd held tqut wiй pins os shоwтt-

Wdik Ьqr ot squqTe end.

TAILonED woшED

Ечттоllноц

FABRlc

FASTEN lNGS l.

ВIдS Fдв с LOOPS. <t Stitch Ьlсs Iobrtc lengthwbo qld trim йе seФ!t. гсrstеп йrэqd qt опе end ctrrd dTqw йTouqh wlth с bodkin, sently turning bios

lnвide out.

Ь. oT.cttach cord ct ono end о{ bics crrrd wiй cordins foot stitch bios очоr the coTd. Gently pull cord to tчm bics insido out.

CORDED FдВшс iооР8. с. Attqch smoll cord to Iсггgег согd crnd h,rmэd end oI bios, Encose smqll coTd as уоч stltch wiй согding loot. DIсгw smoll согd lo tчm Ьids cшrd pull lссгgет соrd into lt.

гдвRIс LooPs

2. 2.

NECKLINES гINIsI*D WITH LOOPS

NEC8LINES гlшIsнЕD Wтrн LooPý с. Оп а foced орепiпч Ioops mсу Ь IoBtened сrt the edsэ wiй oveThcrnd slitсhаз. MecsuTo spcces needed foT buttons

'iвt

Ь. Cut loops corect size Iог buttons; йеп Бtitch йеm on the wrопg sidе ot йе s<дпо time qs yоч ýtitch уощ bindins cгound the openins. Whip tumed edgo of bindinq очеr Ioop епds оп йе inside. с. Shоwiпч lоорs lTom the outside. Eitond Iоорs очеr finished gdge qnd tock down.

З. LOOPS ОN

3. LOOPS

ОРЕМNGS

оý

SLEEVE OPENING. q.

Continuous purchosed coTd mсу Ь sawed in place cfteT sleeve,opening is Iinishod.

йо ргор9I size lог tha buttons mсу Ьо sewed invisЫy оп thg insido qпd о facins SliРstitcbgd очег lhеm. Ь. Corded loops, cut

с. Loops mсу Ь plcced on outsidg cTrd stitched iл With {iгýt Stitching oI loclng. Tum locins чпdег сrrrd lell invislbly.

COBD гвоGS. с. Moke fToq tho shqрg you wlsh qnd sесчI9 wiih tiny Siltches оп

4. coRD FпоGý

wтong sldo.

Ь. LBcrve опе loop froo to go ove.T button. с. Uso bog оп еосh stdo oI openinq lecvlrng

с loop on еосh

Irео to go очег button.

ý. COBD ГДSТЕNING. Moke mоШ you destTe Ьу securlng cord tоsеthsг wlй

5. coRD

whippinq gtitches. Apply motiI io ор€п. ing wiй iпчisЩэ stitches. Согd fastenings mсу Ь used оп necklines ог belts. Sew hook crrrd еуе on undeT sidэ о{ openlng.

гдSтЕNING ь2

!"k

wIDE AND NARRow

Boltв Bhould Ь счt on thв lgnsйwlsa Фсdп oI фе goods. о{tеп, lf you сЕе shогt о{ moterlol, фе tnвtde oI йе belt mсу Ь pleced. ToiIoTэd ЬПs of Цsht-woisht mcrte clФ whофаг wide ог псrтоw, wlll stсу new-looking longeT iI they сге lnterltned wiй muBlin. (Дlwсуs рте-shлiпk йа muslin.) lf you mоkо о coveTed bucklo, put сrwсу о зсrср of mctoтiql reсочетlnq lсrtёт; оs thе bucklo o{ten shоws wеФ 'от ьlоге йэ геst ol q gctrщant.

l. гдвшс

BELTý Strtch belt,

Ieýytns ýEcisht епd ореп {от hrmlrч от, lI Jcbric ts hесrчу, lасгче stde ореп. ТItп edges ьrов tщпiпq, crnd tim соmегs diqgon-

MAaING д Fдэшс BELT

BELT WтпI lштЕRгдсtNG

тI,пNING

FINIýнING

olly.

BELT WЕн ппВгдсIшG. S[tch tn_ tgгJосiпq oI muslhr to one-holl of Ыt. Fold crrrd stitch, lecrvbxq q ýpqce for tumlng, cцld pointins опs end. Тчm. S}tp Btltch openinq.

д Fдвшс

BELT

з.

пIRNIшG BELTS. 'IЪе Ычлt end ol о pencil mсrу Ьо usod {от pushi:rq йе endE thточsh. дп oTcrngowood stlck ts ёхсеllent Iог wor*ins the соmеrg оцt noct cErd

д гдввtс

BELT

shсrrр.

r гrм$шic

BELT. Boste Фочпd edges о{ belt оп outslde, йоп pless. SliEFstitch openinq toqeй€T.

5. FдсING гдвшс WIп{

вЕLпNG

STET BELT. Тцm sосrп оЦоwсгrсв of Ыt to wTong slde. Bqsto io webb ыtlns qrd stitch oll cтound close to йе odge.

WЕвв

WIDE BEI.TS Е{тЕRЦшЕD. Cut cgrvos ltnins йе бстIrе ýizo os Jintshed Ыt ts to

ь.

Boste to Ыt mcte ol crrrd tцm thg гаw edses oveT йо cotvqs, clippinq qlong curves. cotch-stilch еdsез to ccrnvas. pln Фld boýtв lininq М ploce, slipstltch edq€g togothor ог topstttЙ.

IштЕпцNING wlDE BELTý

BELT АТТДСНЕD WITH ГПЕШСН

7. пNIýнЕD BELT At{D гдsтЕN!шG

WIп{ FпЕNсн ТДСЕ. Sow ЬцсНе ct зЬсight and. 'Wоrk oyelots ln opposito end Sеэ pg. 49. Fсstоп bolt to drsgg

wlth FTBnctr tockB.

pg. 49.

8. гд8аIс BELT сд8шЕп" Мааsчrо Ыt Ьг thэ slzа cФrtar you wlЦ need.,Ptn сгrd *w lсйгlс loopв to dlаss св вhоwп.

тдсrs

9. ппЕю

BELT СДППIЕ& Tcrka sечоrсl stltches oEl уоtл gсrmопt йо wldth посоs. sФу to рсrs уоцr bolt thToush. \tYогk очеr йеsе thтвоdg with buttonholo sfltch рч9hlng пеоdlэs thгочsh, heod flrsi.

8. гдашс сдашЕв ý]l

9. тнпЕпD

сrппЕ

FlNlSHlNG тнЕ l.

ýtlqisht Strip 2" wide ond )/z'' longeT thоп s]qsh is to Ье. Boste on outside wiй centeTs motching. Stltch 74'' еосh slde oi centeT ond ocross 7з" obove lower end. slosh between Siitchils ond to comers. Ь. Тцm bindlns to inside {olminq q tlny p]eot (It bottom so it will lie flqt. Turn edqe ond fell to mосhiпо stltching, Tock

ll\

i['\

iili

ili i.

с. SТВДIGНТ BOUND SLASII Cut с

lo,weT end,

STRAIGHT BoUND SLASH

с. Finlshed slтc qht Ьочлd glоsh.

2. вIдS BOUND ýLASII.

Stltch l'' bids qround binding slosh оп outside, stTetching it qi loweT end. Тum under JTee edge qnd fell to stilchlns оп lnside.

з,

втдS_FАсЕD V-NECKLINE. Stitch blos strip оп outside, mite ng qt colnel. TuTn to inside. Тчтп uпdег rоw edqe сlnd Slip, stitсh iпуlsiЫу to qolment.

4. CONTINUOUS SHAPED ГДСING. .,по

oUTslDE

с. Iо'п seoms от lo о, d p.6.s ообп, MqIk lrne of орепiпз оп Io^,ng, Ri ;hi s.des ro getheT, bqste focing on sаImэпt, Stitch оrоuпd neck edqe cTnd oTound ]ine о{ опепrng, Slo h ор^пiпg ond qy^166"1 oclgq5 пеоI роiпt. c]ip into seom оl]о\vqпсе ot

BIAS BOUND SLASH

согпеIs,

Ь. Тuгп focirrq to inside. Тuгп uпdег fTee edges ond boste, Slip-stitch to gсrmепt.

з.

SQUARE NECKLINE. q. Boste bicTs ог stloight {ocinq on gоп.пепt, Iight sides tosetheL Shоре соrпеrs of iocinq ond ýtitch dioqonolly, TTim close to stitchinq qnd

вIдS_гдсЕD V-NECKLINE

ргеss open, Stitch огоuпd neck edge.

Ь. TuTn focinq iо inside of gqIment. ТцIп uпdеr ITee ed,Je of fqcing ond slipstitch

ЬчisiЫу to qolment.

6. DЕтдсндвLЕ соLLдR. Гiпish

n,^ck

eds,e with bios focing qnd соl]qт wlth bios tqpe. Baste ог snop col1oT to neck edge, Sew 'old snops to colloT flгst, then pin ог bqste соllсш ro goTmen', ond гlоtk pos'-lo, io, motching holves of snops,

1. CONTINUOUS SHAPED ГДСING

6. DЕтАсндвLЕ coLLAR

SQUARE NECKLINE FДСЕD i.{

PLACKET.гINISH NEcK oPENING. Го]]эi,,, youT Drr BoTry paltem ссr--lul]у in making 1his typ_- бi neck finish, Sопе celoils rroy vcry in indlviduol golrnents. С. S,lsh сг,-п:лg оi 1оr,_еr соrпетs, cTs shоwп. (Th-- ]ои,ет pc]nts of slоshсs shou}d Ье only as fo. оi]оli.]s 1hе vriCih oi the iпrished piccket, le:s cbou1 l,,i inch. NeveT slоsh цсIе thqt irrcic.!]eci cn pottoln,) Ь. \yiih .iqht slcc. с1 Ьспd ogajnst."\,rong ýi.]e ol .Jo:Iinent, jo]i right Ьспd ic гiqht орепiлg eCge. Т,.1Iп ji1 sеоп о]lоwсrI!се on fTee eCqcs, s]ar::i.r]n.1 als sbov,,n, ond bosle,

r 11

|6l', -

.о

1jLe пLоппсr.

о_о il,r

oin

с. Тurп uпdоr Ilee эСgе о{ left bond апс Stitch ]n L,-lqce .jn c]lisjde о{ .roTmenl, B-si-o ]oi,;er enr] to pcsiilon.

d. ii'urn riqht bcrd to outside of gсrlпепt clnd boirt,. iп pla"n. Tol ýtitch os shоwп, pivOtiIi.] ot corrl.-.rs, Stitch cjcTcrsS point, thlcuqh о]] thj l:i css,os,

PLACKET-FINISH NEсK oPENING

CONVERTIBLE NECKLINE ГАСЕD. с. Тurп onci slitch oui.I cdqe oi Jcrcing, Boste

{ocin,]

_]oiпl9n i, ri.Jht sid--S toEelher, (]nd ]ine .{ oJ].-.njll.], Slit.h iЪ iich ессh

mоrk sjde о1 ]lnc,.Jrac.]uQlin.J to о poin1 ot bot tom, ajl]t i,,-t!r;-..Ir

jt.jllin.J,

Ь. Jсlп з}rсu]dет ijl-(iII3 .)I i].1I]Ilent- Balste focin:J 1ог neci Ьзl:}:. сlп rr,,:тгrл+тrt, Iiqht sides tсr;еihаrl oTlcl vrjlll ,_:ll,iэ oI l,:lck iolitr,r ех tendjn,f o,,,el IIont i.1.]]Il,r, a5 shоwп, Slitch arou!]il n..]k cj.]e, C]ip irLlo цtrчеd seclnl o]]olronce ol jlrlc,r"v.l]S, Тuгп {(rсiпс.rs to iп,,

_t . о ] :l ment illvisiЫy,

,,,

.,n,,

о ltEE

lо з,,

oUT5|DE

CONVERTIBLE NECKLINE ГАСЕD

З.

CONVERTIBLE NECKLINE WITH

З.

CONVERTIBLE NECKLINE WITH COL_ LДП. о. Bost-^ соl]оr to neckline cn outside_ ь. Bosie iгспt lc]cinlJs оrоL]пс cpenirrg ond ovel соllоr, os ShcvfII. Оп top of these boste the bicrs ioclrrq ftэт bock о{ n_-ck, Stitch oround openinr; <r,-rd оrоuпd neck еdсrё, Тurп fcrcings io iIlsi.]c. Tuln rlпdеa {Iее е.]q_^ oi Ь r,K ] j о-1 l 'р - l: \, Io !. tronT {ccinqs lo shоu].iеI sеопls oi gormerrt, (Гоr loilored пrеihоС see COATS, р, 64),

SLIDE гАSтЕNЕв IN FACED oPEN_

ING. Госе Ьоth thе opening on thе golment and on 1hе gorrlenlfcrcing wllh о stTrp о{

thlп .einforcjnq mоtегiоl. Bosle 1.Iýienel to Iе-

infolcoc]

q1olпlent-

lосiлч, tiren opply

gclIment

1ocinrJ

coLLAR !Ns]DE

oUT5]DB

FАвRlс

gctIment. {Оп vely fiTm {crbrics, mеrеlу ýlitсh orcund ореп-

oLjTslOa

lnqs сInd tuгп

in еdqез Ьеfоr,^ crpply,

inq

Gлр,,1aNT

1qstener).

4. :J

SLIDE FдSтЕNЕп IN oPENING

I,1\(:l:I)

WELT роскЕт W|TH FLAP-

olлsloE

Мсrrk with line of bosting йе Ienqй pocket opening vt ill Ь. 2. Cut pocket flсrp о{ qcгment fobrlc l" lonqeT йоп pocket opening ond {осе it with lining moteTiol. Тчm qnd pTess. With oul sides togeйeT, Ьqstё it to gorment, lоwег edge meeting mcrTked pocket linё. Cut welt piece exqctly l Yz" deep cmd l" longoT фоп pocket openinq. ГоId in holf lепфhwisе crd boste wiih rоw edges lust Ыоw pocket mqrkinq qs shown. 3. Cut two pocket рiесеs ol lfu ng mateTlcl l" widег йqп pocbt о!епlлs. Moke чррег piece Yz" Ionger йýп lowoT piece. Ploco о {oci:ls (1Уэ" dэep) clt top о' чрреI pocket seciion; tчm ln lоwеr edge of {ocing cgtd ýtitch IIсrt to pocket piece. Ploce uрр9г place over pocket IIqр :'цst qbove mогkеd open-

oUTslDt

TslDE

ins. Plcce Iоwег pocket piece oveT welt

piec9 iust below mcrTked орепiпч. Stttch У4l ftоm гqw edqes. lепgй of pocket opening. ,l. Тum back {rее edges ond slosh pocket

opening, mqkinq diasonoi Blcshes to фе соmегs cs shown, 5. Push pocket сrnd welt pieces thгоччh Blcsh to inslde of scrment. 6. Тчm welt pi9ce up to fi}I open вросе. Фld ýtilch ends to tгiqпqцlсtт sloshad sесtions ot ends ol pocket opening. 7. Тчrп upper pockot piece down, Stitch Фound sides Фtd bottom ol pocket pouch. Oveтccst тстw edges. & Гiпishеd pocket with IIср down. 9. Ftnished pocket wiй flcp li{ted showinq

Welt.

NOTE:_Welt pockot mcy Ь mode wiй-

out flqр

ЬаIоw'

ghown

lNýIDE

оUБlDЕ

olrБlDE

.SLANTED BOUND РОСКЕТ

TнIS METHOD IS ПECOMIVrENDED ГОП ýLДNТЕD РОСКЕТý ДШD ГОП ВОIrND POCBETS IN НЕДЧY FДВВlСS. Bind the pocLet op9ning oS tol q bound buttonhole. see ро9е 50. Tum to wтong Side. Ртерсrе pocket pieces of lining mqtoтiql, focjnq 1hе top edge of the iппег Бectlon with moteriql moichinq bindjns, Stitch foced pocket piece lo uррет еdче of bindiцs. Stitch second piece to loweT есче of bindinq. Stitch cшound pocket pouch, sewing thTouqh endB oI bindins.

oUTslDE

Fйiýhоd pocket ftоm oulside.

оt rslDЕ

DlAGoNAL роскЕт, SHAPED WELT l.

з з.

Mork with line of bosting thё length lhe pockel openinq wiIl Ьо. Счt welt %" wide ond l" longer ihqn

{iпlshеd welt is to Ье, II desiгed, тоuпd ч]эреI соIпеIs, Госе welt. then turn qht Side out. The welt mоу Ье lnteI]ined with convqs if the mоtегiоI is Soft. Press Ьеlоrе bosting to gсrmепt. Boste rMelt down оп outside о{ qoTment

wiй rоw edges moTked pocket.

4. oUTýlDE

oUTslDE

7, 8. oUTslDE

oUTslDE

meeting bottom oI

Cut two pocket pieces of lininq. Ploce опе af these очеr the welt оs ýhоwп o-nd stilch, forming q reclqnqle oS ]ong os lhe pocket moTklng qnd з/в" wtde, Slosh орепhч in the pocket piece счtting througb ihe centeт of the stitchinq to wiihin %" of tho endý, then diqsonolly to йе comeIs. Do поt cut Йгоugh the sеqm qllowonce of the welt. Тuгп the pockei piece thrочgh the slоshеd орецiпg to the inside of thе goIment. Boste thе pockel piece Ьqсk оrоuпd the opening, then turп thе welt цр oveI йе орепiпq. Рiп thе we]t, os shown, to covel tho ends of ihе opening. Boste iп thiý position опd then Stitch qсIоsS the ends qnd the bottom о{ thе welt. This stitchinq ls shown fгоm tha inside in sketch 7. Bqste second pocket piece to IiTSt one, Stitch pocket pieces tоgеthег ond очегcost Iqw edges.

Finlshed pocket.

lNslDE

oUБlDE

MAKING РАТСН POCKETS WITH NEAT CORNERS you 3.

Tum in sеоm qllоwопсе ot sides qnd pless. (Bcsie wiгy moteriols). 4. Baýte pocket оп golment qnd stltch, pivotinq qt согпеrs. On wrопg side oi .Jqrment tie the ецds of stitchinq thlеqds to-

hove difIiculty mokinq pocket cornегs behove, tIy this speciol mеthоС. l. Тцтп seorn аllо1.!.сгпсо оп pocket hеm ond ргеss. Тuгп hеm to OUTSIDE of pocket dnd stitch ocIoss ends, os shown. I{

2. Тчm hеm Tisht Side out,

qetheT.

enclosing seom. Slip-ýtitch. 1I lоwеr сотпег of pocket iý ýquqTe, оr пошоwег, fold соrпег ocToss IiБt, os i]lustгotёd,

NOTE: А раtсh pocket wiй q чеrу пqIIоw соrпсr sbould Ье {qced wlth ]iqhlweiqht

moteTiсI].

AND oTHER TRIMMINGS irirrr!_

is ц

ВRДIDING

ON ТНЕ

SEWING

f,1ш м д-

CHINE. Тlопsfег youт des]gm lo I;9Ь( sl de of fobTic, Attoch broidlns {oot to sewing mоchine. Slip brqid into lhе liltiё opening сIt end of {oot ond pull ii bock undeT needle. If о test shows ihqt braid hоS о tепdёпсу to 'ohien оп tbe fоЫ.с, рiп tissue popel undеlпёо,h lоЫiс belote you stqrt то brqid. РореI is eosi]y toTn qwоу lotel. Ar Lhe епо oi еосh bTqrd tine, punch о bole wi h о s l'e(Io. push brord ends lhrough, то fqsten ends of Ьгоid insert ihе end о{ mochine thTeod in q fiце needie ond sew

CORDED SнIпRING. Encose coTd in fobTic Ьу hcnd от use а cording Ioot on уочI mасhiпе. DTow up rhleod ono push IоЪrlс bqck оп coTd io -h^ d.srr-d Tulness,

IiTmly. .У

\,'

5. CORDED

TRIMMING BAND. Encose

согd in both ёdgеs of tTjmminq bond. Drоw thTeods up ond push JоЬriс Ьqсk оп coTd, Могk desiqn оп fqЬгiс befoTe o]эplyinqbond

2. гlNlsHING WITH RICK.RACK.

Тцrп ihe гоw edge of lqbTic to outside ond stitch rick rock ovel it.

PIPING WITH RIск-Rдск. Тчrп Tqw edqe oi fobr _c orce оI lwice 'о thе inside ond stiich riсk,госk очёт it,

з. вАв

FАGотING. Bc{s,e StIips Io Ье {ogoted to рорет. Toke ýtltch in left side, then tqke stitch down ihTouqh Iiqhi side cnd wTop thTeod oTound needle sечего1 times. complete stitch on 1e{t side.

CRISS,CROSS ГДGОПNG. Bqste stIips lo Ье fqsoled to popel. StoTt ot uрреI Iight -down hond side, Toke stitch obout 7a'j in opposite edge bTinginq needle up thrоuqh tbe fobTic. pqss ihе needle under threod to oppoýite side (Ind tqkё stitch in thе sqme

.mоппеI.

6. zlc.zдG

TRIMMING. Ruп о line о1 stitcheý in zig-zog foshion oS il]цstlоtеd, DTow up thTeod moking os mцсh fu]n-oss os desired_

7. MACHINE

QUILTING. Sп_е worro,no {оI qui]ting mcry Ье puTchosed ot notion counters. Bqste this to faыic ond moTk first line of quiltinq оп rlght sirlе oI fоЬriс. дttосh quiltinq foot to Sewing mochlne, Sёt quilteI Ьот to follow thе plec-ocling rоw of stilchinqr os уоч wоrk, thus outonlo1jcc]lv Sросlгq ihc lows рчеп]у. То qLi.t Wi,houl о Sp.c;ol q Iili,nq 1оот, mcrk thе r iqhl s de о1 yout lobi ic wпh tqiloT's choIk, using q ILl:^r, S-w qlonq chqlk moTks.

WoRKING

WITH,f*

l. то GдпЕп LACE

Iust pull опо of фе thTeods in йе edgg of loco to sоthёr lt. 2. LДСЕ СОПNЕП" Whеп lqce edgg ls Jolned lo insoItion, miteт йе соmеI ln the lnseTtion (see pq. 40). DTcw up с йTeod 1п the edge о{ the lqce qnd sqйеI qt the соmеr os shown. 3. INSERTING LДСЕ. Вqstе lqce flqt to Tight stde of fоЬriс, Sew Ьой edqes down Ьу hand от mqсhiпе. тчm to \л,!опg slde; cut fqbric qwсrу, lесгчiлg enough to Toll сrпd whip, от h-lm edse bock cгtd stltch. {. JOINING LДСЕ ТО LACE Рlосе pleceg tФ qеthег so pqttem blends, then cut оIочпd pcttem. Whip edses tоgеthег on wTong side. Moko stitches loose епочgh to ollow 1осе to lie llot. The zis-zcg qttqchment оп йе sewing mqchine ls olso excellent fог joinins lcce to Iqсе, Boste the loco to tissuo ророг Ь{оге stitchinq with \.

йе

ZiqzoqgeT.

5. пNIýнING дLЬоVЕп LДСЕ. Tum

тсrw

edge oI lqсе on outýide. Stitch пqттоw lqce oveT

tumed edss. 6, PICOT EDGE оN LACE Rчп q line of bcrsl lnq !r self colored йтеqd wheTe loce is to Ье hemýtitched. cut tцочsh hemstitching Ior picot edgg.

WшРРING LдсЕ то HEMMED EDGE. Неm {obTic; йеп hold loce towqrd yоч ond cotch <r thTead of fсьгiс qnd thе edqe of lqce tоgеthег ,wiй whippins stitches, WoIk Irоm dqht to leii. wнгрпrс LдсЕ то RoLLED EDGE. Nice IoT lina члdеlwеог. Dтсrw one ihгеаd in edge о1 lqca ог lootins until уоч hсгче the dеsiгеd {uIness. RoIl edse of {qЬriс cr few inches qheod of Bвwing crTrd Whlp lcce edse to it. 9. IoINING LдсЕ то FАваIс. sдтIN ýTITcll. Bosio lccв flсrt оп outside of IobTic. Whip еdче

of lqсе to the IоЬriс with veTy close stltches. Тчгп to wIопg side ctnd

tIim excess IоЬriс owoy.

l0. ,оlмNG LдсЕ гLАт дт

COBI{EB. Ттim oTound the lqce pqtteIn ond lap the edqes so coI nel 1ies perIectlY {lqt.

HAND HEMSTlTcH'iNG l. Fisчrе йе widй

йеп snip the numЬеr of thleods you wish lo dгочr out to mqke йо open woTk thе desired width.

Tum up сгпd bcste the hеm. Besin to hemstitch оп the outside qt the ехtIёmе Tisht. Toke up the desiгed пumьеr oI thгeqds; hold йе sewinq thread to the IefL ond dтсrw йе needle oveT it.

complele

of уючт hеm;

ýtitch.

з.

Tqke next Stitch thIочgh опо йгеqd oI thе hеm crnd ф(Iw tiqht.

Сопtlпце йе two opeгqtions exploineh in sketch 2 qпd З. Fоr plain dочЫе hБmstitchinq, tqke scmo gIoup о{ йTeods оп opposiie side.

Fог uneven оl diqgonql heцýtitchinq, split фо gтоцрs о{ йгеоds Ьу tqking q {ew ot йе first ond о Iew of the second whеп workinq фе opposite side.

Showing how. dicgonql hemstitchinq looks,

Showlns соmег with hёmstitching cгossed,

Il а soltd border ог hеш ls desiTed oll сгоцпd the piece, tuTn йе hеm оп thе rishi side cшrd mitег the соrпег. (See sketch 3 ps. 40). Tum гсrw

edges down ond pin. DTcw йreqds; lhen tum hеm to inside ond hemstitch. 9. 3

l0. .

{гlI

tlll mJ

!,!)

Showing йе outside о{'согпеr Jinished. Тhе edses in йе open ýgцqrе qIе очеrсqst сrnd q zig-zqs wогkеd {гоm опе side io йе ойог. Showinq фе outside of соIпег Iinishod with о blonket stitch to hold йе edges together.

DEcoRATlvE DETA|LS l.

вдR

тдск.

Moke йrее от Jоuт long

ýtitches qсrcSS ends of opening, Take очетhqnd stitches qсгоss йе long t}цeod picking up с bit of the {obTic ot the Sqmе time. At thе ends mcke tho Siitchos чегtiсlе to й9 Ь(tI.

2. дппоl.lУ.нЕю ТАС& Моrk

shоре oI

tqck, с. Besin ot й9 lgft hqnd соrпег. BTinq noedlo to црро! со!пег tqking smoll ýtitch hоm risht to left. Ь. Then put needle in lower гiqht соmе! bIinqing it out qt loweI lelt соmег, с. Continuё plqcins stitchog close to еqсh otheT tili whole tTlqngle iý woTked. d. Гinished споw-hеоd.

З. CBOW'S FООТ.

вдR тдсtr

2о

2с

McrTk shсrре о{ tock.

с. Begin ot loweT left соmеr. Вгiпg needle

ж,k

to uppel polnt toking smqll ýtitcfi frоm гisht to ieft. Ь. Then Ьгiпg needle to lоwег ri<jht Ьопd point tqking smoll Stitch ftom le{t to

sht сrnd йеп to lоwеI left point tokinq зtitch qs shown. с. Continue йis, Iollowins outline сqтеfчllу. d. Гinished сIоw's Iool.

2. двRоw-нЕдD тдск

4. COUCHING. Мсrk Then сrt Tegu]oT

position of соrd. intervols poss йrеоd очег

йе

mоtеriоI undemecth. At йе ends drqw йе соrd йrочgh the mоtёгiql. coTd crrrd t}rToush

5. мдвING TдSSELS. Cut о ссrтdЬосцd gquge йе lепой you wish tqsýel to Ье.

,v, .,r\%-

Wrqр floss оr уqm очег qnd очег йе cqrdbooTd cnd tie о thleqd йTough the upper end сtrrd cut йrочsh lоwеr end. wгср йтеоd cround uppeT end severql times to hold tqssel togeiheT.

л77l}ZtFrп

з. сRоw,s Fоот

TWIýTED. COBD. Cut lhIeqds о little mоте йсrп Мiсё thе lenqth you wish finished coTd to Ь. Fold lп holf cTnd secuTe centel in q closed dтqwег. Twisi йе two stTcBlds toseйeT tightly; then {old in hq]f. Кеер thrеоds totrt ond twist o1l the stTqnds iп йе oppoýito dbection.

л. coUcHING

7. POM-POMS. Sесще lonq

stTqrrds oI уоm Ыwееп heoly pins. Tie а thтeqd ot intervqls. Сut уоm between йеsе йTeods. RoII between thэ polms of yоцт honds to Iогm роm-роm. Trim evenly into о boll.

PoM.Pondý

6. TWISTED бl

coBDg s. м^кt{G тлваЕL8

l. oUTLINE sТПСН. Тоkё о

shоIt slttёh, вlопiiпq 1he needle ds бhо\^lп, йэ lhгеоd ф.оч9h. Iпsегi needle lo thё riqht ol thо filst stitch, ond bnnq it oul juýl benёoth ihе бnd of ihis slitcb, ь€inq согё lul 1о slont lbe пёеdlе ot the ýоmо ongle. continue in thts mоппег, mcElnq ihe ýtitcheý exocuy lhe Some ]опqth.

dnd фоw

TWISTED RUNNII{G gПТСН. oullinэ й€ dёsiqn vrilb с Ptcin runntng ýtllch. Тhёп, wiй споthоr lhrбod, очетсозt а linё oveт the Tlrnniig йгэсd, БIiррiлq hб па€dtе lhtоцqh эосh гчпп]пg slilch, Do поi соlсЙ йв fоЫiс iп th€ очеrсоstlлq,

3. сRоsssтпсн.

Uзs о iJопslег dosiqn to mоkб Pelfect sqчбёs. Мd!9 llct, ечэп оvёгсоstiпg dioqoпolly lhгочqh oll ths squогбs to Ье done tn опе соlоr, тhеп iuгп the lobTic ond mоkё сгоsswiý€ Iows of очег. coýting, os shоlл,п.

."/

lДzY-DДIsY. Bёgjn vrltb с kпо1. PulI threod tЦгочqЬ Iгоm wrong бidе qпd hotd i! Wtlh thumЪ to Iогm о loop of dejiгed size, InseTt needle juýt boslde tho рlосё lt согпэ out, cnd Ьгiпq it очi очег the lip oI 1h9 рёlоl, оý ýhоwп. Iпýеli пфdlе qqoin just outside the petdi iip, to hold thо loop ]n рiосэ. Bring the needle out oqoln ot ihа ;entel oi йе llower, ready 1о mоkб ihе nexl роlо:,

3ТЦ{_sТПСН. Uбеd {о, outlininq qпd lor сrriwогk. outlino ih€ dебiqп wilh pddding lЬ.r€od. WoIk over ond over lhe padded line wiih close. even ýtitcbes, os ýhоwп. Nечёr overlcp-stitche6.

ýАПШ ýТПСН. Очог.опd-очеr stitchёý, close ond pe{ectly ечеп, Usuouy workФd оч€г с well.Podd€d p€iql ог {iquтe,

PдDDII{G sTпcHEs. тhе oulline Stitch, don€ iп cioýe rcwý iS oiten used fог PoddinqJ however,'tbe seea Stitch lз shоwп in lhе podding о{ б опd 7, Тhе seed Stjtch tý о shоrl bdck_slilch mоdе wiih о ]опq чпdегпеоlh ýiitch. uso from &r€е to slх stTonds oI 6,р]у poi]dinj thгооd in tb@ noodlg.

sСДLLОРs. oul]ino lhе €d9ё witb ruппiпq siitсhёs. Гj1l spoc€ Wilh podding StitchФ. Wilh twisl, work oveт this, using Ыопkеl stitch, cul dwqу ol edqe,

'оыlс BUlI.loN sTTTcH. Вгiлq need]e uP lhrouqh tobfic. Toke slitch cnd ЬеIог€ dTowlnq n€odle rhгоuqh, wrор thг€оd c,ound thе end с пumЬвг о' times. comPlete the Stitch.

Iпýэr1 needle

оз orrow indjcotes.

l0,

япЕNсп кNотs. Вгiп9 needle uP ihrouqh iоЬгiс, Wгор ihreod огоuпd th€ пеёdlе th.ee or Iочr |imes ond iпвёrt пееdlё,сlо;е 1о Ijгst siilch

ll.

сдNDLЕWIск тuIтlNG. Uge condlёwick соitоп dочыеd, ihгёddеd

ln.o candlewick neodle оI о lогqэ eyed noodle, Моkё гчпп:лq зlilches, tоkИg up os ]illtб noteriol аз роýSiЬiё wiiЪ lhе n€eole ot еосh Bhort line о1 thе stomPed роi19!п. Тhе thгеоd shou]d Ье kep1 loos€ Ь€i!\.аеп ýtiiches. Wotk ontire d;ýtgn, 1hеп cui thгеоds thгочgh сепtег, сý Бhоwп. т m tuftý unifomly. In buyirlg moleiicl, o]low {ог shTink. cq€, wсýh \л,оrk Ьеlоrе using lo moke trrfls sесчIе. .,, -'.,1-,,_ 'inishёd

л/,,,, 62

l. слш.в sriос!пс.

вгlпq lho пsбdlв up lhTough iirst d;i. Toke а

rtqhl lo !эft ln lhэ sосопd dol, wiй throod Ьеlоw lhе пебdlФ, .lllch drow 'rоm dоЕ lоgбlhог. Tolo о Btiich ln th€ thiгd dot, ,t,,ith ths йreod obovб ihб поэdlо; dгаw doiý toqolher, сопtiпчё all ihe woy оФоБs.

8EED

DIДIЛОND sМОСПNG, Bэgin v,ith IiTSi ond second doi in ýecond гоw. Procвбd Gв fог веФd Bmocking loling only опё ýtilch thточgЬ еdсh potr of doв, опd сdrгу thгеоd on ihе oulýide.

neбd16 up thгоttgh firýl dot, тоkё с slltch tьrоugh second, ihen lirýt dot ond dгdw thеm tоqеthбr. Iпsётi noedio iп sэсопd dol orrd out tЬгч lh€ third doi. Wогk 1п poiтs ol dots сII th€ v.oy остоýs. stcjl second row wiй second ond ihtrd dots. Smo.ling mсу Ьё Фотkеd oltemotoly between two rows of dois.

sмосrшG. вIiпg

l. СЕЛlll

sTIтcH. Brlnq the n€€dlв uP thlough ths fоЬгtс ofid botd thg thleod down wilh ih9 lbumb. Iпsегt th€ nбedle cloвe to thэ Plocв whёrе thв threod соm6ý otit опd loke с stitch fогrлrоld, with the lhJeod чпdет thе needle to foтm с loop.

5. гЕдтЕЕп ýттсн.

Ruп boýtinq IoT quido. Brtnq thý пёеdI€ чр throuqb mdlerial one slde oi boýilng. Hold thэ еmЬгоidеrу thledd dочfп ёчёr thэ liпo, Toto о ýhогt, slqntйg siitch on йе opposile slde, ГоI dочыэ от iriplo lеоthёr Btltchlnq, loka sэчёrоl stitchэs оп €осh Bid€ о{ bostinq.

DДВNП{G. Moke гчппiп9 ýulсhёs 1п о г€сtопgl€, coп},rns йгеоd ocroýs йs hоl€. W€qчэ in cnd очt ocToss th€Sб ihтёqds 1п оррФsltе directton.

МДСНINЕ MENDING. Рiп tlýýu€ р.rрег Ьепбой о Бtгоight tёqт tn с towel, shееt, оr tоЫёсIоth, Йd stitch bock cnd lоrtЬ c]osely оп ihе ýеwt1q mdсhlпе. Li{i ihе реýýФ foot о little, ýо thoi tЬё fobтtc Ф.l ье moved Ьосk опd Iortb, опd wjlt по1 hove io ье tчгпеd. то mend d thrее-соrпФеd tёоr, сý Еhоwп, рlссё (r plecб of сhеёýесIоih очег tbsue рqрег сгпd boste it Ьеп€ýth thе teo, befoтe doing the zig-zoq зtilchinq. Smcll hоIеs поу olýo Ье mended ln thls mcnnel.

ВlДШКЕТ smСН. work lrоm lёft to ghi. HoId th€ tЬёоd down ond totб ýlitch thгоuqh й€ fоЬгlс Ьгiпgiпq needla oul очег thг€оd. Гоt foncY blonkei stitch, 9гочр slitсhёý оr бlieTnoie long ond sЬоri slitches,

ДРРr.lQUЕ. Счt motiJ ol согdЬоо!d. Ploce thiý очбr уочг lobтtc molif cnd реsз tho ed96в оч€г it G shоwп. cilP io mоkё it lrэ flot, Removo согdЬоrd ond icy motif on IоЬгlс to whlch it will Ье cpp]ied, Неm down, slip_stitch, от outline with ЫспLеt oI ýotin ýtitch. (In using ýtIetchY пdteltals fог oppltqtre, 11 iý оdчiýоЫё lo rчп mochine stttchiýq olonq -the oul}ino ol lhе moti{ Ьеfоrе tuTninq еdqёý),

ii ij

l0. DoUElE ОvmСДsПNc. from гtqht 1о

ОчэIссst entiTe lепgth oI edqё wоIktлg l€ft. Тhоп ovбTccýt from loft to ltght. ди,\рт

'(l_ц_r)'

succEssFul

€м-j{,

!N-вUY!NG YoUn DU вдiвY содт рАттЕRN, ast {ог уочr usucl size, qs екtгq Jчllпеss ls оlгеоdу a]Iowed fur й9 pottem. It the fobric you select hЙ not Ьеп рте-shrчпk, buy enough - to ollow foT shIiпkqgе, с'nd Ье sчIе to shTink the moteriol Ыото уоц чsе it. _ (See Pqse 3). II you ссе q Ьiппаг, crvoid siгеtсhу оr too loosely woven Iqьгlсs. Тhе ltttle jocket.ond йе dтеssmоkеr-tлв of coqt сЕе mqde mчсh like'cr dTess. RеIег to thЫdгэssmоkiпg dbctions whеп you оте mqkins one ot феsэ. Тhа

following diIections qpp]y to toiloTod coсrt

йе

mqklлq ot сt wiй notched соIlсш. Tho bosic ргiп-

cipleB foT moking

oll tqiloтed coqts

сrге

йе sbe.

ТО BEGIN, bcste the body oJ lhe coct tоqейог cnd it оц. Bcste Bleeve qnd рiл to positlon. (S9o ý Рqsэ 46)._ When coqt {iB пlЫу, but not snuoly, IEmove sleoves cшld Stitch body о{ coot. Sýtch seqms fгоm йе top down. Ргевs side ýoqms ор€п, clippinq ot счтчеs. pTess ойет secms os diгваеd in pottem. Счt ор€п dcгt ct Ьчsiliпе crTrd pTess llct. PTess оs you go. Тhе shope must Ь ргевsеd into q coot qs it iý mode. It сqппоt Ь done сdtегwсrгd. youT w_ell-pcdded s}eove bocTd qrrd youT cuBhion whеточеr they сше neoded. Use_

lоЛоis

INтЕRFдсINGý сге mcde of mqtoTiql whiсh hоs bеen shrчпIс ond pTessed. Use toiloг's ccrvos от medium-weisht muslin.

Цqstе ccmvqs intodocing to члdоI-ýесtiсп of colIcq. t'itl in collcп wiй pcddinq stitcheý, Tollhq ФId

1hсrпllg qs уоu wогk. (Гоr pcddbq stttcheJ, Й Pose l9). Use thIeod motchinq соqt in соlог. Moko q пчmЬет of Towý of гцппiпg stitches У. inch с]рсгt, lгоm nock adse to йе bsinnins of йе ToIl. ' 2.. Bqste intoгIqcfulgg td konts. Bogin pcddinq stitcheБ пеqг innor edse oI fqcing, qrrd wотЁ tЪw<rj outeT edgo. Moke рсddiлq stitchos ln lcrool сфочi % inches lonq cnd fofuly сlозе toseЙeT. Boste о pTe-shTunt tqpe qlопg neck еdяе crnd along openjng edges of coqt, Plqce tape whеге it wtll Б cqught_ Ьу mochine stitching when Jccings сге

сrpplied.

Joln undё!-Section oJ соIlсг to coot. Ctip into ýесшr qllowance qt intervqls qпd prcss open. -Соtсh-stiсБ чрреr edqe to colloT cп.td lоwеr edse to coqt. тrч on coqt qnd mqтk position Iог buttonholes. (See Р. 50).

BoUMi ВuттоNЕоIДS

mчst

mcde ot this stcsэ.

Jotn outeT soctlon of соllсrr to {ront tocinqs.

Cllp inio sеqm on each side, whеrе collo meots lcpei, ond ргеss ýеqm ор€п. ,!. Lcry coot flq1 on toblg. Plcce focins Фld очtеr соlIш on coot, with Tisht ýides tоsейеr. Stitcb оutег edges, lесгчiпg lоwеr edges open. 5. тгim secrn cllowoncos fix sггqdчqlеd staDs. Turn seom qllowonce очеI cqnvas, qs shown, спЬ мсhstjtch. TuIn fqcing to inside oltoot qrrd тчп silk bcsij::rs close to tumed edse. Tock neck seoms Ji {qcinq to nock edge oI coc{t on wтong Bido. Tcck ITee edse ol colloT to bcck Treck odgo.

l. йсh

stitch ltee edge of fIont fccings to intelfосiпg, Iec:vinq loose fог qЬочt 5 inches ot bottom, slqsh focinq bchind buttonholes onc linish. ТНЕ НЕМ. in {oblics thot 1ock body, is solтlelimes tчrпеd oveT о stIip of ]iqht weiqht inter{ociлq, Cut stliр йе exqct width of coot hеm, Р]осе loweT edge even with the line on which hеm is to Ье iolded. Cut ýllip awoy ot еосh coot sеоm to qvoid Ьulk. Cotch-stitch st p olong еqсh edgo. Тurп hеm over siliр, cotch-Slitchinq rаw edge iп p]qce, оI finishinq with seom bindinq. Mrlkrl cr lroi1 jlrc:lr s]c.rsb inlo cd(re о1 ot top oI }larIl. 'J'rrrIr iп rcrw cdqc oi focinq 'acinq bclow slosh r

ltlr

l:litl l;1rlrJr,

SLEEVES: Stil(--Il ond pless Sеqms, Рiп sleeve iп crrInlrolc. (Soe Pc,Je 46). дdjцSt qothe.S, if sotheTs оrе used, then Iеmоче sleeve ond рrеss gоthеrеС ond on йе culved pсIlt oI о tqilol'ý cushlon. Use о domp ргеss сlоlh. Gоthегs wlll Ье shTunk out, qnC sleeve will Ье shореd to {it оrmhоlе. Bqste ond Stitch lt in. Ргеss seom qý diIected in pcTtteIn. InleiIqce hеm of ýleeve сrs descTibed foT hеm of coot, but moke inte ocing strip 7а iпсh wider thоп sleeve hеm, os shоwп. WARM INTEBLINING: Cut intel}ininq l1ke linins, bui omit hеms ond seom qllowonces, ond omit pleqt ot сепlег bcrck. Mciko ýleeve intellining ot ]eost йтее inches shоrtег 1ьоп sleeve, ond do not intelline чпdет-рогtlоп о{ s)ceve, Cotch stltch тоw edges of inlellininq to coot Se(lms, 2. РдDDING тнЕ SHOULDERS: Рч1 coot оп wIопq side очt ond pin pcrJdinq 1n ploce. Whip sides сInd top edoes to InI ] ,п,l, I. (Tl lnIeIl,n,ng ]s not uýed, {ock роddiпч invisib]y). }4. LINING: I{ coot wos q]tcTed, оltеr linins l1kewiýe. Moke sеqms опd darts, 1eoving shouIder sеоm

open. Seom sleeve, bul do поt ýet in until lqiеr. Тi.]rп iп qll edses of Iininq oxcollt itont shouldeTedEe, отmhole and lower есс;сs, ond ргеss. TurTr coot inside out and put it оп опоt]rсr person oI Ilot on ironing Ьоqтd. Pin ]ining ц tr)lacc, wilh pleclt о1 center-bock. Sllp,Stltch lhе bock s}rоuldеr edge of ]ining очеIjгопt, lqckins to shоuldеr scorn, Sevr linirrg to огmhоlе edses. Саlсh-stilсh г)lcot ot сспlег,Ьосk. Tock linins qлd coot seoms toqolher loose]y, os 1оr crs hiр line, Siipýtitch neck ond Irопt edqes oI lininq to corlt. Sllp lininq оvёI S,\ ,,v^ опсi loc< se ,.,1S tо9еlhег, eosins о little, Тurп jп seotn a]lowonce ot 1оо о1 s]eeve ]lnlng опо l l. , v^T ol mЬо'е e.lg+. In .^rt brns naol low-I ео J- oJ ,,..^va ,о ho]d ео. с os shБ-r, Sllp st'tch turned edr;e of liп]пq to sLeeve hеm. 5. Boste Iоwег ed.Je d jnter]ininc; to ]inцg, onC tuln hem of 1ining очеr iпtег]iпjпq. S]ip,stilch ln ploce. А1 tach lininq hеm 1о соо1 о1 sёqmз v,,ith Гтепсh locks

wlTHT*

woRKlNG

FUП-Маrk pqttem with qrIоws the woy the {uг should щп. Мqrk

otound the pcttern on the bock of the iur with pencil, 2. CUT qlons moгkinq, цsiпg q TqzoI blode от veTy shoTp kni{e, ond tokinq corc to cut thгоugh the leqtheT onlw.

З. SEW

ТНЕ FUR with tiny whipinq' Stitcheý, using q stlonq wqxed thгеоd, Ве coTefirl to toke up jusi йе edse of ihe skin qnd noi ony of the fuT.

Bock old fuI With soft сqmЬгiс. Do not toke up fuт when sewing this to skin.

5. sEW ýтRдIGвт

ТДРЕ to edqe of skin. Ploce poddinq ond flonnel on skin qnd cotch stitch tope to it,

соАт.

JoIN

соLLдR то lhёп slin-stitch

]ininq in р]qсе. Moke о line о{ running stitches qt the bock of lhе neck to hold thе соllФ lininq in poSition.

7. дррLYING

FUR

ВДND. Торе unfinished

edges, then S]ip-Stitch to

q(Iтment.

lNDEx АrmЬб]ёs, sIёе!ёз -.6, 7. Blouse

6,7,8,9,

2о. 2| 10, 1r,2}

co]Iol, Nect])ne 6, 20, 21 ýkii1 , , ., , .. ,6, 7, 20. 2] S]oct, Tlouse.s , ., ,. ,.. 6

'Бопdз,,,,..,, ,.4с.

58 64

Дpplique ,., , ,. ...

А!гоvhеqd Тd.!з

, ,

з5 ..59. бЗ

.,,,.,,0l

Bdctstilch,........,,,,. 25 вdпds , , ,. ,,,....,. , ,з9, 58 вог Tcck ..,.....,,,,,. бl Bosljnq ,,,,,.,., 14, l8, l9 Веqiпп.гs,,,......,,,,, ýз

Bios..BioS Sedns .,..,,,,,.,,

12, ]з,29, з5, зв, з9 29

Рlпз, doub]e, sco]lops,

siпrulоlёd,,,,...,-,,, з8 B]dnt,-t ýlil.h ,,...-,,,. бз 24 Bl]ild H.nllling,,.,,,,, вса P]edts ,,,-,,-., з], з7 Bldid]n.r , , ., . ,. , ,,. ., .., 58 Bldid Loops,.,,-,..,,,,,52 Buckla Соч€liпq ., ,. , , , 4в Buuion Stltch ....,-.,,, 62 Busl . ,.... , , ., , .. 5, l0, 17

luttons

, . . . . . ,. . . , , . ,- ,

Buitonhoieý . . . . . . . . . 50, ýl Вцllол Lоорз ,,...... 48, 52 вutlопьб]а shl.b -.. 5l

coлdlewict Tцlltnq . colriё.s toт BelIs ... соlсh Sliched tleh,.. cotcn stilched sёdm.,

ь2 53 65 28 ,l9 37 35 6

сiiсu]ог RчfilФ ,..,..... с]гсulог skill ........... c].culor Tuck ..... ....., зз cools ,. ...,... , , , ,.. 6.{, 65

соuогs....,6, 54, 55, 64,

66 3

cottons . ..... ,. ..,., , , .. conl]nuous !ао , ., .. -. ,u conqFrtlb]e N_;ck ,., 55,64 Согd Pipinq ,,....,.,.,, 30

сгоss9d TuckE .......... з2 сгоsýwiбо Groin .... 12, lз

clow'ý гооi ......,.... 60 BioE ......... 12. lз, з8 GоФэпlý ...,,,.,. 12. I3 Nqp dпd Up-oгDovn Doбiqn, Ploid.. St.ipes 13 D

Dolntnq .,,...,......... Dolt Sеоm .....,.,..,... Dесо.Фtiчё Еiпiзьез , ..., Dёtосhоые со]lсг ...... Dioqondl ýtripes, cultinq Dг€ssmоkеI'6 гоrh ...,., Du воr!у Potiбrns. ,, ..2,

бз

зз зз

6} 54

lз

Biaý

. . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . .

гоьпсs ......... ,.....з, lз

гоьгjс tоор€ , ...... ..... 52 Гcl]otinq . - - . . . . . . , . . . . . 58 ГdпсY Stit.hёs , ..... 62, бЗ гoslenels, Slide 42, 4з, 44, 55 Гdslenings 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 гdsiепiпq Stjlcheý .,,... l8

геоihёIsiilсh . . . . . . , , . . . гol]ed sеоmý . ,. , ., ,.,,. Гe]Linq Stilch ..,... , ,, , . ГiЬеls .,.......,..,.... Edqes, , , ...зв, з9, 59,

зв

бз 21 24

бз

..,.......... 54, 55 ýl--eves .,.,,,,....-,,, 46 Nёcks

Pipin.J,,,.,.,...,..... З0 cordFd, Picol. Plped З9, 59 Sеоm , , . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . з0 Bolleci . ,.. ,.. ,, ,., ..., зб Sbjrlinq ..,.,......... 58 Edqinqs . , ,. ,. ,,,.... ,.. 59 Tlimning .,.......,.,. 58 Edqe_sliIcbed Еёф ...... Зб Tucks .,..,,,.....,..,, 32 Edqe_ýlitched Sedm 27. 28, cordc, Twjsfed . ,......, 6] 29 зп cOlrgr in Ldce ....,,,,, 59 Еmь!оid-ёгу Stttcbes,,,6i, бз co.nels ,,,,..,.. з9 40,60 colton l'qbrics ... , ., .., з Potlerns.,.,6, 7, 8, l0, ll Соu.Ь]п.J,--,.,,...,.,, бl Enlre Dечз ,,,,..,....,. 30 Еqчiрmепt . , . . . . . . . . . . . , , 4 wеiqhtб ,.. ...... .. 48, 49 ЕуоIеtб . . . . , . . , , . . . - . . . . 4q closs Siitch . . . . . . . . . , . . 62 Eyes dnd Hooks .....!., 49 clossed sвоm .....,..., 2в Еуав wогkеd -,........,I9

. з9

codts ............. 64. 65 Еdqбs . . . . . . . , . . . , . . . . З9 Bems ..,...........,. 39 Neckiines ,..,,.... 54, 55 Sleeves .............., 46 shop.d ...,....,,...,. 54

Гillinq, РоiпlеIs оа.,,,,, l7 Eiilinq Gdlmепts-,... 20, 21 Г]lt пq РоllеLпб ,,2, 5 to lI F]ор Po.kel .,....... ,. 56

гlоuлс.s,....,....,._. з1 Гlеп.Ь Bindinq ......... зв г.еп.Ь Knots,,...-...- 6, Г.епсЬ sеdФs ........,_ 28 ЕIепсh To.k5 , , ..... 49, 5з Prill, Рlеоlёd . . . . . . . , , , , з5 Ггоqs .,.,,,,,,....,.,,. 52 Fч]lпеss, Ecsinq io,, 29, з0 Euun€ss in Sleeveý 17, 21,46 гч., т!еоlmёпl о' , ..... 66

х lб ]l !"t |1,1,1l. l{, 20. 2l l ,, l.(ll lillllx.5 Iз ',il!,,!. | |'L(ilu!, ,,,,. 5 5

з0,

45 40

зб 29

]1 sllde гоs'|псl5,l2, 4J 44 Ruchi,g .,,,,,,,.,.. З5,58 SItp BcslLn,.r Ruli]es .,,,,,.....,,..,. з5 S]iD_ýlilcnпli :{ Runnjnq Stilcb ...,,,,. 23 sпЪсkiп.l Sочiосьё Bllld ., ,,. For Gc1llcrs, shlI l trlcl 62 ,,,,

з8

l l, 1,|, 55 22

з9

Il !п,l llax,n1,1 ),,,.

lз cotc!_slrtched ...,,,. согdеd ,,.,,,..,-,,,.

о 1,1il 1lI

llfi'il!

5,1

26,

27 2в

з0

21 29 30

2? э0,

rr vth,{l tl

bq. l1

'I;t_,

.,.

lla

Рrеssrлq

slol

l'B t -.

" l,,_..

4l,.

зD,

]8 4,

sbir.in.] ..,,,,,, zЗ sboгlenjn.] Pollel.s shоlldег P.Idainq

l5,

Pdddln.J . ,,,,,.. 19 Sllcps, Lln,l.,le ,,. ,,. Slгdпrhtепj!(I МdlёI]о1

ТоЫе IoI culllnq ,,, Tokjn.l Мса5uIепrёпls AIIoъal.dd Bdl,

4, 5,

5з.

l-,, ",-"t Ч..L_l. | ,,, Il 18

,*. }. r

с 58

6: 2

l: 6] l,

l2 17

22 4 з0.

бl ]5

Tools Io! sewin.J

,,.,.

Top_sljlc\..] Sеdm 27

28,

Trimmings ,,,, 5В 59, бl тrочэеIý. Allёrdlion 6 з2, з2 Tuck c.verinc sеапl зз 54

], |2

,t }t*l*,

З0, 6, l0 46, 65 49

2,5

'+."

з7

,46

.6,7,

li.

lб

lз

46 29 27

2,|

4з

п.

5\ nl

Hond se,

4l 4l

зэ

зс

il, lt

l4 l4

Dorп n.l

2в

з0 26 26

50 a3

з0

6.1

wёl1 Pr-lr.]

zjq zoc

6 7 2l,46 4 22 46 Press,n] ,,, 21 46

з6,

Brnds

гоslелеI

4з, l4, ]ockel, S.Poгollnq .,

Plo.krl

4э

.12,

42,