V
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THE
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Jkiiiii
fc££Y<?
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COMPLETE SYSTEM FOR CUTTING GEXTLK OF ALL FASHIONS, VESTS AND
EAR, COATS
PAjVTALOOA'S.
A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR CUTTING
LAD!ES DRESSING, WITH PLAIN AND PRACTICAL RULES FOR VARYING AND CHANGING THE IE, ACCORDING TO THE CHANGE OF FASHION, With Plain, Eas?/
and Practical Method for Teaching Questions and Answers,
thz
7
WITH EXPLANATION ON MEASURE, PRK3SIN0 AND FINISHING
BY
•Hg
A.
J.
same by familiar
KING.
HUNTER.
s-*
-
JOHN NOBLE, PRINTER, GLASGOW, KY. '-^z^z"?^-----r rz?*rr-*.?r
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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA: District
of Kentucky.
5
that on J5e 2/ Remembered Domini 1S53, A. J. Hunter, of ',
r
L.S D, i
the tide of k book, the following, to wit:
title
"The Garment Cutter and Ladies Guide
.5c/.
this the
of
second day of
May, Anno
said District, deposited in this office
which
is
in
the words and figures
being a complete system for cutting Vests and Pantaloons. Also a complete Guide for cutting Ladies Dressing, with plain and practical rales for varying and changiag the same, according to the change of Fashion: with plain, easy and practical method for teaching the same, by familiar Questions and Answers: By A. J. with explanation on Measure, Pressing and Finishing the same. Hunter. The right whereof he claims as Author and Proprietor.*' Gentlemen'.-; wear; Co-its of
all
:
fashiens,
In conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled
"An
act to
amend
the several
acts resoecting copy-rights."
MONROE,
JJSO. A. Clerk of Kentucky District Court.
'••
'
This work, as
its title
page imports,
with designed to furnish every family
is
c lothin g,
have,
source of
many
every class
afflict
milli-
i
'^
and
ever varying changes this
at
The
our country.
great reduction could be
that a
oi
"P 11
The
ancestors.
of the worst evils that
work has ion- known
this
in
of money, are and the consequent enormous expenditures
fruitful
and
.
a great degree, depart*
in
economy which characterized our
dress,
tailors
to
of fashion has become so absolute,
wo
society, thai
c an
been known only
hitherto
The dominion
ner
the
a
...
for cuttin -
;
practical knowlc an easy method of acquiring a
t
in
ime a
author
made
ot
the
in
cutreneral and easy guide in the
ting
and fashioning of ladies' and
ge,
meet what he considered a very great and growing ty
upon
this subject.
lessei
It
has been
Ids
purpose
has endeavored to
i
to afford
every lady the means
ol
burdens of her hu
J
inanolaltoge
Id,
'warranto- the co
vare
'
the fraifn
{
-
perfect though
it
yond the reach
of those wl
.
:
.
doubtless
is
in
some it.
nil
however that
eels
important department
maj
"
;
;thedis B e
'
a hui
its
He
J.
respects,
He
is
:,
I
im-
nevertheless be-
courts an invest.gatio
pages, and bases his claim to public confi
sys:
recomending
he may, «
his
of vanity, defy criticism. lief
of those
He
and he
/
la
who have small means,
professional tailor,
'
against the
feels safe in
extortions
saying that his plan
3H32S5S£SS33B£5aBHSHEEB
is
for
and burthens
now
lhe rc ' of
complete,
the
One
great merit of this
work
guage or abstruse expressions. adapt
it
to the capacity of the
addresses ters
itself
that
is
Its style
common
with peculiar force
to
and sons neatly and elegantly
who
and
raind,
entirely five from technichal lanits
general arrangement eminently
and the object to be attained by
every mother
attired
This work has been entered according right secured to the author,
it is
who
desires to see her daugh-
upon a small amount of
to
it
capital.
an act of Congress and the copy-
will see that his rights are not violated.
Bgaara sBBKgiHaggB^^
iiMrWii
taaaa
THE
GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES
GUIDE.
^
-
s^=«-=r
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
and Jlnswers
uestions
Plate
to
/, with
I, JFi».
JExplanations. Q. What do you first do' A. I draw my lines. Q. Which is your upper line? A. The one to my right. Q. Which is your outer line? A. The one next to me. Q. What do you come down on your outer line? A. 14 inches. Q. What do you get by that?
A. The length of the waist. Q. How do you carry in the length of the waist?
A. By laying the square parallel with the^ outer line, ranging with them. Q. What do you go in on the waist A. 2 inches. Q. What from that 2 inches? A. 2 inches more. Q. What do you get by that? A. The width of the back, according to the old style.!
Q. Present
style?
A. Adding £ inch. Q. How do you get the middle of the back seam? A. By laying the square in the corner of the
lines,
ranging with the 2
inches.
Q. What do you come down on the back seam? A. One i. Q. How do you carry in the I? A. By laying the square parallel with the back seam, ranging with the
I.
Q.
Wh«-t do you
t'' 1
on the
in
I?
W\
i1
eiqj'ou
come
in
on your
line?
A 2 ches. Q. Where do you mark get your shoulder seam?
From
D
to 2 inches.
to?
A.
From
the end of the scale to 2
inches.
Q. What do you come up on your sideseam? A. 4 inches. Q. How do you shape your additional spiing?
A. By a sweep. Q. What do you take for a sweep? A. 12 inches. Q. Where do you sweep from and to?
A. 4 inches
to
h
inch.
Q. Folds how do you gel them? A. By judgment. Q. What do you go dowu to get the length of the skirt? A. 24 inches. Q. How do you shape your skirt at bottom? A. By a sweep, taking the entire length lor a sweep, and placing your right hand at the top, your left the entire length, sweeping toward you.
[The 4 inches observed on theside seam of plate 1, figure 1, and the \ inch immediately under tire length of the waist,
it is
at the enin
accord-
ance with the present fashion of waisted coats, and if the waist of the coat shall
become
shorter, the
-i
inch ad-
must he taken off and the back only be 2 inches wide, as represented by two figures of 2 on figure
«
A.
A. The length of the waist. Q. Where do you sweep from and
ditional width
A. One K, adding of a C. upper
Q. How do you shape your side seam' A. By a sweep. Q. What do you take for a sweep?
to
to
1.
the length
You
will
reraembe] that
of the skirt will be con-
trolled by taste
and fashion; and,
so the lengih cf the waist.
al-
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE
Questions and Jlnswers to Plate Explanations. Q
What do you
A
I
first
do?
Q.
draw my lines, Q Which is your upper line? A The one to my right. Q Which is your outer line? A The one next to me. Q What do you come down on your outer line?
A
1
inch.
Q How
far from that inch? one H. Q, How do you carry in the H? A By laying the square parallel "with the outer line, ranging with the
A
H.
Q
What do you go
in
on the
H
line?
One'half the thickness around at the body. Q. How do you shape the sleeve at
arm
What do you sweep
A From arm
half the thickness around body to half the thick-
at the
ness of the elbow, from half thickness
of the elbow to half the thickness of the hand.
a sweep,
BWiMMMapsggeB&flgegarTiriTg^^^^
from and
A From 1 inch to the upper line, from the upper line to one half the thickness around the arm at the body Q, How do you get the width at the elbow? A One half the thickness of the elbow, adding one inch. Q. How do you get the width of the hand? A. h thickness ofjihe hand adding an inch. Q Where do you mark from and to get the inside seam?
top?
A By
Fig. II, with
to?
the
A
the
1.
ss
THE GARMENT CUTTER. AND LADIES GUIDE.
\ucstions
Q,
A Q,
and Answers to Plate II., common Dress (Joat.
What do you first draw my line?.
Q
do?
Which
is
A The one
your upper to
my
line?
Q,
Which is your outer line? A The one next to me. Q, What do you come in on your
J,
A One H.
come down on
What from
that.]?
carry
in
H
your H,
laying the parallel with the ranging with them. What do you come in on your
A Bv
L,
Q, VV hat do you your outer line?
H?
and E?
outer
line?
A One
from that
J.
A One E. Q How do you
right.
Q
upper
What
A One
I
g
it
line,
!in^
A Q What
on vour J
line?
UmttBBBSBBi
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
C
A.
Q
What from A One K. Q What from A One L.
Q How A By
Q How
thai C? that
with the upper L.
K?
the square line,
parallel
ranging with the
What do you come down on
Q,
do you carry out the point
seam? A By
do you carry up the L?
laying
»
the
h?
laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with pointseam. Q What do you go up there? A One D. Q, How do you carry in fhe D? A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with thu
D.
A One
Q
I.
Where do yon mark from and
to to get
your shoulder seam?
A From E lo L. Q What do you come shoulder seam
Q
in
on your
neck of the coat?
A From H Q, Where to tu get th°
to
It
'
;:
,i
' »
do you gel the width] of
the lower part of the fore cart? A Half waist thickness. is it applied? laying the back to the side seam, applying the m the middle of the back seam, taking care l
In
K,
?
to
the
E
i
i
n-*
C.
>
enough for a seam. do you add to that measure in case you cut the coat to button straight up in front, the lapellea to leave oil
Q What
you throw your coat
in at t!ie waist?
it?
shaped
character will
A man
A Two
inches.
Q How do you
fit?
same
Poii
I
E line to Q. How do
A.
A
A oy
arm-hole
A From E
that
on the D?
Q How
I.
do von mark from and
from
A. F. Q. What
in
Where do you sweep from and
Q How
'.
Where do you mark from and
lo to get the
What do vou come
to?
A OneH.
Q
Q
A One M.
that measures near the
at ihe waist that he
does round
carry up the waist
o! thickness?
A
By laying the square
D
parallel
the breast.
with the
Q. What is considered near same. A. i inch to f. Q. Suppose it was 2 inche?, A. At the G. Q. 4 inches. A. At G and d H, precisely half
Wai?
4 By measure taken from the middle uf im around before to get the length of the coal. t Q, What do you leave oil that
way..
measure?
of
t
!
A Oae
A. At H.
Q How i,
half
way.
A By
side
By the back. Do you go any lower down on
Q, the forepart than the hack?
A
I
do
— enough is
a
^
s^tt^^ a gaBaigssa s
—
for a seam beseam taken on the
forepart and none on the back.
r's
the collar pattern. is it
laid there?
brake lo one-half (he thickness of the cuscomer's neck, the square upon the brake to tell how
do you shape your
cause there
do you shapa the neck of
A The
searn.
A.
inch in dress coat.
Q How
A. At I. Q, 9 inches. A. At J.
How
do you get the length' of
the coat?
A. At H and Q. 8 inches.
Q.
the
the coat in front?
Q. 6 inches* Q. 7 inches.
.ranging with
.
Mow
Q,
line,
far the coat should roll.
Q How of the
coat
do you shape the top part in front?
A By
the lapel!e[paUern, Q, Which side? A The outside.
Q
Suppose the outside should be
3
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
IŠ
curving? instead of rounding? A The inside, the length of the lapelies, is got by the length of the fore
pari, the dubbs in the measure; the width of the top part of the skirt is got by the width of the lower part
of the fore part, adding for fullness to get the necessary spring for the skirt?
A One D. How do
Q.
in the
D?
laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with the
A By
D.
do you come in on the D Half an inch. What do you come down on
Q What A
Q
A One L. Q How do you
Folds,
to f inch.
how do you
A By judgment;
get them?
folds of
all
sized
persons are the same. How do you get the length of
Q A
Q
8y the length of the back skirt. do you mark from and get the top mark of the skirt?
Where
A from the edge of the folds to the lower corner of the fore part. Dubbs, how do you get them?
Q
A By judgment. What do you come
Q
across to get
the width of the skirt at top? A One M, adding of a G.
Q
your outer line?
At bottom, what do you come
across?
shape your round-
A One K, adding of an E. Where do you mark from and
Q
ing folds?
A By
A From L
Q
to to
you carry
you sweep from and
the skirt'
may require. What do you go ('own
as fashion
Q
Q Where do to?
to to get
a sweep.
take fcr a sweep?
Q
What do you
A
Eighteen inches.
A
the
From E
forepart of the skirt? to
G.
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE
Questions and Jlns.
to
Plate III., with Explanation, ength of the waist, Q What do you
go
in
on
the
length of the waist 7 A Two inches. Q, What from that? A Three inches, or whatever fashthink ion may be, or I, in my judgment it
should be.
do you get the middle of
Q How
the back seam? By laying
A
of the of the lines,
corner
the
square in \he corner ranging with finches,
What do you come down on the back seam? A One L, marking at the I. in the Land Q, How do you carry
Q
^A
laying the square
By
the outer
with
i, parallel
ranging
line,
,
with
them, <
Q
What do vou go in A One K, adding of a Q What do you go in A One M. Q What do you go in
on the 1 C. on the L? r
on vour up-
per line?
A Two
inches.
do you mark from and to to get your shoulder seam?
Q
Where
A From D to 2 inches. The aim hole? A From D to C and C
Q
Q,
How
to M. do you shape your
side
seam?
A Bv a sweep. What do you take g*Q "" length o< the The A
Q Wnere to
A
What do you first draw my lines.
I
Q, 'Which
is }
A The'one
Q
Which
our upper
to
my
line?
right*
your outer line? A The one next to me. Q, What do you come down on your outer line? A Fourteen inches. Whatdojou get by that? is
Q
A The
Q How
length of the waist. do you carry in the length
&f the waist? By laying the
A
with the outer
line,
M
to 3 inches.
Folds,
A
the length of the skirt? A Twenty-four inches.
Q How
do you shape the skirt
at
bottom?
A By a sweep. Q What do you take A The entire length.
Q How do
for a
you sweep,
sweep?
it?
hand at the the chalk holding hand top, at the entire length, sweeping towards me.
A By my
square parallel ranging with the
do you sweep from fand
how do yoÂŤ get them? B) judgment; folds o. all sized persons are the same. Q What do you go down to get
Q
Q,
sweep?
1
A do?
for a vraiÂŤt.
placing left
my
right
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
| igf
Questions and Jlns. to Plate IV., xtith Explanation, Q,
What
A
I
do vou
first
upper
Q
Q How
What
L. line?
A One H. Q What from A One J.
H?
in
vour H,
do you
come
in
on your
Hue?
A One E. What on your J line? A One C. Q, What do you come :n liom
Q
-
that
do von carrv
the outer line, ranging with them.
What do vou ccme down on
pour outer
that J?
J, and E? A By laving a square parallel with
H
Sine?
A One
Q What from A One E.
do?
draw my fines. Q Which is your upper line? A The one to my right. Q Which is your outer line? A The one from me. Q How far do you come in on your
C?
A One K.
that
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
N me
A What
from that K? A One L. How do you carry up the L?
One
your side seams how do you shape them? By the side seam of the baek. How do you get the width of the
,
forepart ?
I.
Where
do you mark from and to to set the shoulder seam? From E to L. What do vou come in on your shoulder seam.''
One H. Where do you to get the
neck
One
How
By laving
coat?
care to
What do you add case you cut the
in
in
on your
E to
coat
button
to
shown on plate 4. do vou get the length of the
in, as
in front ?
dle of (he collar
arm
hole the
the
arm
Bv in
do you shape the neck
is it
laid
The brake
What shaped man will that fit? One that, measure^ near the same near the same? Half an inch t<> three quarters, Sup) ose he was two inches?
At the G.
Four inches? At G and H, halfway.
the
to
theie?
one half the thick-
ness of the neck, the square upon the brake to tell how far the coat should loii.
How
and breast.
is
oi
the collar patten.
How
at
the waist 9 At the F.
mid-
before,
coat?
at the body.
do you throw the coat
(h
seam around
to get the length of the coat.
How
By measure taken around
do you shape the
front part
of the coat at top? By 'he lapelle pattern, the outside of course. How do you get the length of the skirt?
Bv
the iength ol (he bac.tyskirf.
How
Six inches? At the H.
do shape the skirt at bottom sweep. How do you sweep it? By placing my right hand at (he at top, my left hand with the chalk it sweeping towards me.
By
Seven inches? At Hand i, halfway. inches?
measura
(hat
coat
Bv measure taken from
arm hole?
proper size?
I.
to
it?
How
f.
Eisiltt
the
straight np in front, or (he lapelles to
E to K, from K to Kow do vou get the
At
seam
dle ol the back seam, taking
2
What
measure
the mid-
rrnrk from and to
ol tie
One J. Where do vou mark from and
in the waist
the hack to the side to
applying
V\r.e?
How
half the waist thickness. is it applied ?
leave off enough for a seam.
From H (o I. What do you come
to get the
J.
In shaping
laying a square parallel wifh ranging with (he L. the upper n What do you come down on the L ? *-â&#x20AC;˘
inches
At the
By
1 i
13
L in
a
:
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
ucstions
and
Jlns. to Plate F., with Explanation.
What do you first do? draw my lines.
Bee ause the bark
makes
1
Which
i?
your lower
The one to my left. Winch is your outer The one next (o me.
How
line
Whai do
?
One I. Where do you
line?
cross the
vest ?
Why
At the
do you leave
v .irti^ysÂŤy!'F5aÂťfeiM^
an
E
wide,
on the
sweep?
do you get the length of the
By a sweep. What do you take The entire length
is
E longer. you come out
the vesl an
lei
top
the
I.
What do yon come out on for a
sweep?
leaving ofFan oft that E?
mark?
E
i
mark
sweep?
One M, marking
at the
I.
the top
t^M, jt^afc^«*^...-.«<j««i» « »j i « «i « »»»^^^
£&
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
What do you come up
from bot-
tom?
One D.
How
do you carry in the D? the square parallel with laying By the lapelle line, ranging with the D.
What do you come in on the D? One M, marking at the I. Where do you mark from and
back?
One to
M
From
to
M.
ffhat do you
come down on your
inside seam.
One E.
Where do you mark from and
to
From E to I. What do you draw
to
and mark
I
inches.
you carry up the width of
thickness? By laying the square parallel with the width, at the surne time ranging with thelowerpart of the inrtd.^seam.
How
do
}
ou get the length of back
to to get the length?
the back part of the neck to lower part of the inside seam, How do you carry in the length? By laying the square parallel with the width of at the same time ranging with the length* What do you go in on the length? One K, marking at the E. How do you carry down the K? By laying the square parallel with the length, at the same time ranging
From
at?
Draw the
half the waist thickness, add-
two
By the length of the forepart. Where do you measure from and
your shoulder seam?
to eet
ing
How do
your inside seam?
to get
Where do you mark from and to to shape the lower part of the vest? From t\ie fiont cornel of the vest through the I above the D fuse to the lower p^rt of the inside .seam. How do )6u get the width of the
the
E and
1
to the
I
and mark at
the end of the scale.
What do you come down on your lapelle line?
One I. Where do you mark from and
to
to^et the neck of the vest?
From E to I. What do you go down depth
ot
arm
to
get the
hole?
M
from the E on the middle of the shoulder seam. What do you go in to get the front part of the arm hole?
One
One K from the lapelle line. Where do you mark lrom and to get your arm hole? From the end of the scale to the and from the
i£ to the
M.
to
ft
to the
with the K.
What do you come down upon K?
the
One G. Where do you ma:k from and
to
your shoulder seam? From E to G. Where to get your arm-holt?
to get
From
G
to
M.
LESSONS TO BE OBSERVED BY THE STUDENT ON VESTS. remember that in cutting a Vest there are various fashions; but the of measures are only taken, there being only 4 measures, begin lengt bone spoken of in explanation to Plate VI; around before to get the Vest first; the next around the breast; the next around the waist; the next arou
You
will
number
In cutting double breasted vests y< the neck, including 4, as before stated. In vests as you do the coat. pattern, collar the by vest the of the neck you varied that there cannot be any unexceptionable rule giveD, whereby practice. and observation strict without governed in all cases,
i
y—p» tmmmmmtBemBmBumummasamammaammm THE GARMENT, CUTTER, AND LADIES GUIDE.
| I<S
Questions and Jlnswers What do you first do? draw my lines Which is your upper Ijne?
my
One H.
Fold,
How
light.
Which is your outer The one next to me. ;
folds
By
line?
of
;ill
sized
do you shape the skirt at top? By the lower part of the forepart. ii
laid
skirt at
bottom?
How
is
the length of the bnek skirt.
Flow do you shape your
persons are the same-
How
do you get the length of the
skirt?
how do you got them?
By judgment
Plate VI.
the top line?
I
The. one to
to
By a sweep. What do you take The entire length
How
do you sweep
By
there?
Bottom upwards. Flow far do yuu suffer the lower part of the side seam to come above
my
for a
sweep?
of the skirt.
it?
hand at the hand with the chalk in it, at the entire length, sweeping towards me. top,
placii
my
Li
right
left
tt r?rj&3M&3SiaBsssSESi<rerMB*«arsivmuu ^«yfffla fJ"»1 MM" " .
n
'
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i'
UM "*-
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUlDl
and
is
Sins, to
F
o.
I^W<: :V^.
Ex
with
5,
17
i
nation
A. At the E. a? \ou see the three
shew
ietrers
the J lane:
<»n
What from that C, D, A. One K. Q. What from that K 7 A. One L, Q.
or
E?
Q. How do you carry up the \J A. By Uyhvg ihe square parallel with the upper line ranging with the L.
What do you come down
Q.
on
Ihe L.
OntJ
A.
it)
t<>
i.
\\ 1;h'
(ft.
g>
A.
run
I'
i
-'.J
•
\ <>•:
:<
>Ut
r
E
you mark from and mid ei' seam.'
to L.
Q. What do you come
in
on your
shoulder seam?
A. One Hi Q. Wi»ere do you mar B from to Co !"M
f
A.
The one
Q. Which
my
to
down on
that
H?
your H, paiallel
.
(J.
for a
stooped shoulder-
ed character. A. One I).
Q. Suppose he stooped?
One
in
your coal
F.
What in
Q
What
the iwuiv.
character will that
the l)rea?t.
with the outer line ranging with them Wl.at do you go in on the H? A One E. Q. What on the J?
A. One
at
A man that measures the same around the waist that he does around
J.
and E? A. By laying the square
Q
the right -size/
A. Measure taken around the arm
fir?
Q. What from that J? A. One E. Q. How do yon carry J
hoi.--
What shaped
A.
A. O. e
to
at the waist.7
Q. What do vou come vour outer lints'?
One H. Q. What from
on vour
A. One [. Q. Where do you mark from and to get your arm-hole. A. From E to K, from K. to L. Q. Hbw do you gel your arm-
llow do you throw
per line? A. One L.
in
line?
right.
your outer line? A. The one from me. Q. What do you come in your upis
;ind
the e.uat/
E ,a^,i.itefe^,,i'.Aaiirtj
Q. What do you first do? draw my lines. A. O. Which is your upper line?
tun k in
From 11 iu 1. What do vou come
A.
Q. ES.*u "-* .f ;t.,,t
il'it
was very much
is
considered near the fame
Half inch to three quarters. Suppose he was two inches? At theG. Suppose he was four inches? B'tween G and H half way. Suppose he was six inches? At the H. Suppose he was seven inches. H and I halt way. Suppose he wns eight inches? At the LHow do you shape your side seam
3y
the back.
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
IS
Do you go any lower down
Why
How
on the
forepart than the hack? I do; enough for a seam.
By
Because there s a seam taken on the forepart and none on the hack. do you carry out the point ;
How
seam?
By laying the square parallel with the outer line ranging- with the point seam.
What do you go up
there?
your coat in front. By measure taken from the middle of the collar seam around down before as far as the gentleman may wish coat to come down in front. How do you shape the neck of your coal?
OneD. do you carry
in
the
By a sweep? Wkat do you take for a sweep? The length of the shoulder.
D?
By laying the square parallel with the outer line ranging with the D. What do you come in on the D.?
One M from the side seam. Where do you murk from and to pet the
From F By
to
to
side
seam?
How do you get the width of the lower part of the forepart? half of the waist thickness.
How
is waist thickness applied? laving the hark to the side seam applviug the measure to the middle of the hack seam, leiving off enough for a se;»m in the b ick, and if vou should cut the seam under the arm, as represented b\ the mirk
B)
roll more, below the 1;
to
strike roll
the
the back.
O <e
Where do yon sweep from and to? From L to I: if you wish your coat
to
lower part of the lorepart
M. do you shape your
How
laying the square parallel with
D line ranging with the thickness How do you get the length of
the
so?
How
do you carry up waist thick-
ness?
but
little, let
let if it
your sweep you wish it strike
above
I.
Hew do you shape the front part of your coat at top'? By the outside of the lapelle pattern. You will see from the plate, the fifth seam under the arm, dotted on each side, that is to be hollowed out by the dotttd hue, and in setting on your buttons \ou will take Ihe L at the top .if the mat to the lower pa«"t of the foiepart, sweeping from
you add enough for two more seams and your turning. What do you a 'd to waist thickness in case you cut lapelles to your
H '» 2 inches added, us repres' tiled bv 'he crossed do's <>n the foiepart. The hark of this coat is cut like the back of the common sack coat, but sometimes the lapelles are sewed to not add it, and in that case you do the 2 inches, and the skirt is cut
coat?
like
from
in '.he
1
arm-hole to
j\l
lo.ver part of the forepart,
Two
inch**.
rrmvw
in the
1
will
I VI
H'JUIMiWJIuiJtli
the skirt of tha frock coat, as be shown by figure 6.
— THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE.
19
and
Jlns. to Fig. 6, with directions to cut the skirt of the half Sack Coat.
uestions
(or a turn in
hoiv
on the front part of the
and then youi folds. How do you shape your
skirt,
skirt
at
tcp?
By
the lower part of the fore par*.
How
is
it
then?
laid
Bottom upwards. How far do von suffer the lower part of the side seam come above ihe top line?
One E, fashion;
if
must come the
G
or H, according t© the wai?t is cut short you oneG: ifloog, oneH: aid
fashion
is
at
present tolerable
on the back part of the thcie is skirt you have folds also generally about one inch left (or folds the fullness of \our skirt is got by fa-hion: at top, if the skirt is very full you must add for fulness. How do you gel the length of your skirt ? By the length of the hack skirt. How do you shape your skirt at bottom? By a sweep. How do you sweep it? By placing my right hand at the top, mv left hand with the chalk in it, making my left hand go twice as fast as my right hand, because it has twice as far to go, and both have to
short; and
What do you
first
do?
draw my lines, Whk:h is your upper
I
The one Which
is
to
my
line?
right.
your outer
line?
The one next to me. Folds, how do you get them. By judgment; leave
off
enough
r/et
there at the
«ame
time.
— nii«Mjpiniiri««r
ij
rirrr
rTt«ir?iT
,J
'rrm
w"
wwiMnmrt ir n>
THK GAKMENT
20
r
"
WB
i
-JUT:":":
AND LADIES
———
W
B—
C
part of a Ladies Dress-— present Fashion
Back
What do you go
in
on the
K?
OueM. What do you go in on the M? One M. What do you go down on
the
outer line? Tie length of the waist.
What dn
yoij
on (he length
in
tr
of he waist? l
One-fourth of the waist thickness, or whatever you may wish the width ol your back to he what is taken off the back is added to the forepart,
—
and
visa verse.
What do you come
in
on the upper
line!
Two
inches.
Where do you mark from and to get the
From E to two inches. Where do you mark from and to
get the arm-holt
From E
to
shoulder seam?
to JM,
to
?
M
to M. and from your side seam?
How do yon shape What
do you
first
By a sweep, or straight by the square from Mto whatever you may wish the width of {he back of your dress, taking the length ol the waist,
do.
draw my lines. Winch is your upper lint? The one to my right. Which is yonruutpi line 7 The one next <o me. What do \ou come c}oAV.p on 1
i
he
outer line?
One
How
M d<>
marking at th<; K. yon carry in the M and k
laying the square parallel « the oiner line, ranging with the
Bv
ifh-
M
und K.
if you shape vour side seam by a sweep, for the length of your sweep: after you have gone down to thf ie gth ol your waist, if you mav wish a peak on the buck, go down "2 vi 3 inches for the length of the peak,
men mark
from the waist thickness length of the peak, and
to the entire
chape as shown by dotted it
line at the
iigth of the waist.
, 08y Stub'nt* will remejfibar that in drawing theii line* they will fen vie ofFenougb a split rase.Tnd for hooks and eyes if you wish yo ir dress l<< upon behind, if not, leave oft' nothing; and if you shouid not wish a peak, of course leave it of)', and carry Owing to ladies wearing ijrir dresses so verv tight, you y >ui waist square across. should leave half of ah inch for seams, and mure if the lining is of dome-tic; if drillThe dotted line on the side seam show how \ ou s-iiape ing, halfol an inch will do. your ..iie »eanl by a sw*ep, taking the length of ;ht> weist tor a sweep.
foi
t
..
MHM.iMr CkXZ
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i 1
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Lu-.'u.'ti.
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Garment cutter and ladies guide
Questions and *Ins.
to
Fin. 8
»i
with Explanation,
,
—
Being the forepart of a I/idie? Dres>.~ -Present Ka*i ion, with directions to vnry and change according to the Folio wing Fashions: lull directions, &.c.
—
,
from
K
t«>
K, cot for open bosom your lining or faring
dresses, or rut
ran d orh letter lo letter with either doited lines, and gainer plete nnd finish thf outside as you may to
'•'
..if.'-rvi.-'
ol the
lashioii ma> require. What do yon go in on our upper
wish or
\
line?
M, adding of an F. do you carry down the V?
O.ie
How
13 v laying (he square parallel with the upper line ranging with the F. What i\o \ ou go down on the F?
One 6, Where do you mark from and to
to
What I
do yc,u
draw my
Which
is
first
of your dress/ By the sidebody of the back. How do von gel the length of your sidebody? By length of the sidebody oi the back. How do you carry the length
do?
line?.
your upp^r
Trie 'Uie next
Wliat do you outer ii,H- 7
li»
to
vour shoulder seam/ From F to G. WheredoYon mark from anil to get vour arm hole? From G to K, from E to M How do you shape your sideoodjr urot
line?
oh-?
come down on your
One M adding of a D, How do you cany in he M and D. By laying the square parallel 1
acnK-s/ By laying the square parallel with th" F line, ratigmg with the length o( the sidebodv. What do you come across t« get (he wsd'h of
li.
e
lower
part
ol
tne
with the outer line, ranging with them. Wha f do vou «o in on theM? O'leJVT adding of ah A. What do you come down on your
fore par'? One fourth of the
outer line to get the open or hosom
Four to five inches, or whatever you may wish it. JPhere do you mark liom and to
of vour dress?
You
will observe on plate figure on vour outer line, the letters G H and K. and you will also observe and nn Eon your upper line, and K on your shoulder, and dotted lines running from the shoulder to the letters on the fore part and bosom of the dress, marked G H and K. U vou wi e h your dress cut high in the neck, dotted line from F to G; spring fashion; from I to H, summer fashion; 8.
I
adding lor seams. /Fhal do you go length of the peak?
waist thickness,
down
to get
the
to get (he lower part of the forepart?
From one
fourth the waist
thick-
ness to the entire length of the peak. What do you come across to get
the point of the two side seams? One K. marking at the E, from the sidebody.
How
do you shape the back part
of the sidebody
By
a
?
sweep.
r-*smrri. ggg^Tg'iyrT'xrTy^'Tar^
.
TIF,
Whai do \ou The width ot
GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES
lake fur a sweep? the lower part of the
Soie part.
Where do you sweep from and to? From the lower part of the side body to the
first
seam, as shown by
dotted line; '.he four straight lines and E shows that running from there is two seams to be sewed, and you sew in the two lines, forming one seam in the two others forming the second seam, and you must leave off enough, exclusive of seam 8 , to he ot
K
sufficie.it
width
for the
lower part of
th^ forepart of the dress. If the fashion of ladies'
waist in seams, and should the shoulder become shorter less at the
Directions, Quest,
fy
from fashion and requiie to be taken offal the back pari of the shoulder, you will readily perceive how it is done, and if the shoulder of back is shortened the forepart alsoshould be shortened to agree, that you will have to do by judgment and the scale. The siuJeot will find no difliculty fashions of in cutting of any of the gentlemen's or ladies dressipg by paying close attention to the rule and measures, and take time, do not be too hastily in anything. in taking ladies measure you begin at^ flie top f th'.' ditss or as high it, and go on down to ;is "hv wishes 1
i
dre«ses
should vary, which we reasonably look lor and you should not want any peak, come square across from the lowei point of ihe sidebody, and should the fashion become shorter in the length of the waist, which is very possible, you will then have to take
up
GUIDE.
,
yet the length of the
want
;
— that
is
then around Ihebreist; 2. then
I:
around all
waist,
the
that
is
— that
required.
All
3:
is
that
is
further required of the ladie- is, to be particular and observe the fash-
you can follow i» through Further instructions
ions, and
changes. will be given all its
Jlns. to Fig.
in
8.,
the closing lecture.
on Pantaloons
The one to my right. Which is your outer line, The one next to me. What do you come down on your outer line. One-half of the knee length. What from that, Tiv en'jre length of the papfafnm the top of the hip to the h ous er. the length. How dd you carry in one-Kali the knee length, and ihe knee length and
—
the entire length. l)y
lay
iog the square parallel with
the outer
line— ranging with them. the body
What do you ^o up fiom
of the pantaloons to get the the pa:i^.
OneU e outer
What
]
draw my
\\ inch .gsgaeratjErsa
is
lines.
your upper
line.
of
ft^m'^ne O.
flow do i.arry it in? By laying the square t'
ot)ej>
d
>
parallel with
ranging with you go in on the
line,
II.
O
line?
One-half Ihe waist ihickness. leaving of two inches. What do you go in on the P line? One-half of the knee thickness. What do you go in on (he R line ?
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. One-half of the ankle thickness. TFhat do you go in on the waist? One-fourOi the waist thickness, adding jijHi for seams. How do you carry down the waist ,-i.)
thick ivs.-?
By laying (he upper waist.
(he square parallel wilh
line,
ranging
with
the
Where do you mark from and to get
your
From L
inside (o
the dotted line, as
X
to
shown on
H
and
the fore-
part at you; Holl«»w out the point to prevent them from drawing up when riding; on the the P and X line you
goon
ihe buck part of the points three inches farther than on the fore part and at thm bottom, shown by R.
H
and V,
across.
all
in
a
line
or
touches the upper line to the 3 \ inches un the back part of the
pant's.
N. B. If you should wi h to cut pants to wear wiih su-spenders, vo*; measure from the top of the pants ep as high as the customer wishes hipants to come; in that case you should not slant vour pants at the
to
seam?
X, from
i;
you come
Twist the width of the fore part for gather pantaloon and mark a straight line from L to V" and hollow out, as shown by dotted line at V, then di;iw a straight liVie from L to VV for the back nart of the pants at the waist going up three or four inches for the back part of the pants behind; you will observe ol the top of the pants a small slanted line, vou shape in that way for pants to wear without suspenders and cut by the lice; then mar!:- from that line where
S3
top, but
them come straight up with the selvage of the cloth, and if he should
'l«t
wish his pants cut according to old style,\ on give them equal width at the bottom and kne<-. There are only five measures taken for pants, beginning at the top of the hip hone aud go on down to the knee and th^nco
on down to the foot, that being two measures, set them down, the knee first and loot next; thence around the waist, then around the knee, then around the ankle; tho=e measures should beset down with dots between them to distinguish them, and be very particular in applying your measures and in taking them, when you come up an H from the O to get the open of the pant*, you use the scale of the waist measure; vou should shape the lore part of the gaither pantaloons rounding and any other additional shape that fashi/u
may
rpqnire.
..~.«^rr»^«K«<ri««-a«^a»pl»?MBlwgCT^1e«, < yyf|
i
iM
TJflE
.mjsiions
QiA&MKN'T CWmO-ii
AND
r.ADUJS
(jWJII^E.
and Ans. on Fig. 10„ with Explanation,
Being* the Ladies
1
Wrapper
oose
shoulder seam,
Dress.
as J.ishion also
may
you
should wish your dress gathered in the back, which should all loose wrappers are, you lay your gathers before you lay oiT your dress, as you <unnot get your dress the proper size without; the double lines show that you must leave off for turnings or split case, require;
as
if
you may wish.
On
part
the fore
of
the
loose
wrapper dress what do you first do? I draw my Ikies. Which is your upper line? The one to my right. Which is your outer line? The one next to me. ^Fhat do you come down on your outer line?
One G, come high it
low you
if
you wish your dress
in
ma
to
the neck, ifyou wish
come one H,
}'
or K, according to fashion or
I,
J.
your
taste.
/fnat do you
What do yon first do? draw my lines is
your upper
One M, adding
line
How do
7
The one to my right. Which is your outer line? The one next to me. What do you come down on your outer line
D» By with
do you carry
the
in
K?
One M. What do you go
on your up-
per line? inches.
Where do you mark from and to get
That ineludes ladies'
your
K
to
your shoulder seam?
From E to 2 The arm-hole to M. the
inches. of the
all
if you wish your dress high the neck, tffashion should reduire low on the neck, you get the shoul-
der seam, go down to the shoulderseam, till you get it as short as you
may wish. What do you go
of the rapperof
One M, adding
How
E
in
on your UDper
of an F.
von carry down the F?
By laying the square parallel with the upper line, ranging with the F.
you may make come lower down the
What do you go down on the F? One G. Where do you mark from and to
dres*;
dres-* to
on your upper
One E,
in
•
back frcm
in
line?
or higher up, as fashion ar your may dictate, or shorter on the
taste
in on the M? cf and A.
line?
it
in
and
the square parallel outer line, ranging with
IVUai do you go
laying the square- parallel with the outer line ranging with the K. What do you go in on the K?
M
laying ttic
What do you go One M, adding
By
Two
of a D. in the
you carry
them.
?
OneK.
How
come down on your
outer line?
I
Which
.««*
to
your shoulder seam?
THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. From E to G and just as low down may wish the gathered part
as you
of your bo-om; to corns on the foreyou come down on your outer line, say J, or K, and carry it I, part,
straight across by laying the square
ranging with the I, J, or K, and go across one L and mark from the G to the 1. in a rounding or curving direction tor the arm-hole, and bHore you begin to lav off your dre-s. you must gether up as much fullness as ^vou wish your dress to have, as you cannot guess parallel with the outer line,
Rules to be observed, The sij'pli ation of neat measure taken upon the customer
is one of the and highest considei ation, in cutting of a sood fit of a coat or vest, and therefore you cannot use too much c: re in taking of your measures and in the application of them, being ver> particular to observe the shape of the person you are cutting for; inquiring of the person at the same time what kind ol coat â&#x20AC;&#x201D;or whether
first
he wfints a loose coat or a tight fitting much as it is extremely uncomfortable to some persons to be drawn up by a tight fitting coat, particularly ageu men. When you begin to take measures upon the customer,you begin by la) ing the end of the tape measure upo! the large bone at the joining of the neck and body, called by some the socket bone of the neck: thence on down to gel the length cf the waist, coat, in as
T
next get the length of the waist no the figure representing the length, extending the tape to get the length of skirt the then down the entire length; that being two measuresset down separate, with a dot be. tween them; next measure the mid ;
die of the hack holding ihe tape
seam to measure
the
elbow?
at the point
of the elbow, causing the person to bend his arm, extending the measure to
set
tli
*
band: that being four measures as before stated with dots
down
between them; the measure tne
arm
at
is
around
the body, five; the next
around the elbow, six; the next around the hand, seven; the next middle col-
at
it.
as
25
you are aware you can
ol
make a You
guess and regular rule work will remember that there are three measures taken for a ladies' dress, beginning at the top of the dress in the back to the length rf the waist; the next around the breast; the next around the waisr, that iÂŤ the
3; whatever the lady may maasure around the breast in inches thai is
the
number of scale
will find the scale
bottom of
to select, as
numbered
you
at the
ea< h scale.
seam around down before to <ret the lengto of the coat in Ironr, eight* the next around the breast, nine; the next around the waist, ten; t'.e next around the neck, being eleven m-aslar
You will inquire of the person the time yau are measuring him about the coat or something, for fear uies.
all
yon may
tal<M his n easure too large or too small, causing him to talk; and whatever the person mai measure
around the breast in inches thai scale reprenimg the number of inches seto cut
lect
the toat, or loim it aeregular rule, your eleven solid measure to get the coat the right size. to the
Fashion and
its
changes should be
particularly observed, the most prominent changes is, 1st, in ihe collar and lapelles of the coat; 2nd, in the length of the waist and skirt; 3d, in the (illness f{ the skirt, it being
sometimes fashionable to have very full skirts,
In
ct other limes different. sewing, you must sew a strong,
seam; ami when you have you next press it, and when y<>u. have sponged the seam, with your goose or iron, being hot, take a scrap and try the heat of your iron, and if your iron wiil no\ scorch in half a minute it will not scorch at all, and when you fipply the iron or goose Lpply it easily, the point being in the seam; and when you go the full length of tne iron do not shove it to ihe right or left, but let it set and bear all your wait on if, until it has killed the straight
done
that,
seam dead, then or
puff.
it
will
never rise
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013 964 975 8