thbaibrary UNIVERSITY BRIGHAM YOUNG PROVO, UTAH
THE LADIES’ »
COMPLETE GUIDE TO
NEEDLEWORK AND EMBROIDERY.
4
LADIES’
E
COMPLETE GUIDE TO
NEEDLE-WORK AND CONTAINING
CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS WHEREBY ANY ONE CAN EASILY LEARN HOW TO DO ALL KINDS OF PLAIN AND FANCY Needlework, Tapestry-work, Turkish Work, Persian Work,
Stitches, all kinds,
Bead Work,
Lace Imitations, Mosaic Canvas, Canvas Work,
Russian Crochet, Edgings, Laces,
Slippers, etc.
Fringes,
China Purses, Braiding and Applique,
Chenille, Braid, etc. Crochet,
Scarfs,
Implements,
Berlin Patterns,
Shawls,
Varieties of Silk,
Collars,
Materials,
Embroidery,
Knitting, Netting,
etc., etc.
WITH ONE HONORED AND THIRTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS, ILLUSTRATIVE OF ALL THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND FASHIONABLE EMPJ.OYMENTS, SHOWING AT A GLANCE TO ALL HOW TO MAKE ANY ONE OR ALL OF THE THOUSANDS OF ARTICLES, IN ALL KINDS OF NEEDLE-WORK, EMBROIDERIES, ETC., DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK.
BY MISS LAMBERT. “ And though our country every where With ladies, and with gentlewomen,
is till’d
skill’d
In this rare art, yet here we may discerne Some things to teach them if they list to learn.”
—JonN
Taylor.
phUairnwiiis: T.
B.
PETERSON AND BROTHERS, 2Q6
CHESTNUT STREET.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by
T. In the Clerk’s
Office of
B.
PETERSON,
the District Court of the United States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
THE LIBRARY
BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY PROVO, UTAH
TO THE
me 9Cl)is
IS
nranreio)
bolutne
MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED P\ THE PUBLISHER.
PREFACE.
In
following pages I have
the
those subjects
on Decorative
Treatise
brief historical sketch oi
endeavoured
embra
to
which appeared most worthy of
3
notice in
Needlework, and by combining
a
with a detailed account of the practice
each department, to render them more generally interesting
than a mere Manual of directions and examples. I
am
indebted to
my
husband
for
his assistance in
some
of the historical notices, and again for his permission in
lowing
my
maiden name
being that by which I
to
appear on
am more
the
title-page,
generally recognised in
al-
as
my
avocation. It
years tion;,
may
be
since,
stated, that this
but
occasioned
circumstances its
of the present year.
from
my
volume was commenced (here
three
unnecessary to men-
being laid aside until the commencement It
has been written at intervals snatched
other employments, and I trust that the accuracy
of the details will obtain that indulgence
its
literary merits
cannot demand. F.
S
— —
—
^
CONTENTS CHAPTER
Introduction
5 7jr
ry reeks and, 0
r,
I.
f Necdle "'°A-The time of Moses-The ancient- Egyptians p Romans— Helen and Penelope— Embroidering of the Peplus— 16 fiddle Ages-The AngIo-Saxons-An|licum opus-St.
T I fT J
Dont ^ Hunstan— Needlework practised by me a— Hangings or veils— Tapestries— Ta Pf Work Qpeen Matilda— Ancient Pall ,
belonging to the Fbfbmo ishmongers Company— English Needlework in the sixteenth century— VaUpa adleS at that eri od— Needlework noticed P by Addison— l Tht laSt Ce tU Coloured Embroideries— Print work— Miss T in 5
^
i
_1 APESTRY
CHAPTER
II.
D ?0rat!on ° f wa,,s with Tapestry-Mentioned byHoP ^rT~ mer-An1;nn;fv ? u u U * nv cntion— the Phrygians omen of Sidon GiTffins a n?] f Vnf S_ the lan Tapestry— Story of Arachne andPhssacia Minerva IntroducLn off T d u TaPcs‘ry the Crusaders— Weaving Tapestry— First ? practisedi in Flanders— Arras— Introduction into England— Patronized bv _ Ma aCt0 ry at Mortlake-Charles andSir FrancL Crane 7 When Manufactured m France Henry IV—IColbert and Louis XIV Manu|cture Royale des Gobelins-History and productions of that Manufacru "Ieo r>-Tapestry for St. Cloud-Evelyn’s DefP° T scriuThm Tapestry-Dyeing Establishment, and Drawing-school Tf tne ot the taobehns Gobelins Th The basse and haute Iisse— Working of Tapestry— InstruS R ffael e TaPestry ° f St. Mary’s Hah, CoventryHampton
W
—
i
M
r
Court
N
’
f
‘
Lmwood Impllmen"is
-
^
CHAPTER
s, Materials in General
Material
III.
—
le ^S^able, and Mineral Kingdoms Various d_Nee< eWOrk the P resent day Materials used by Miss .
n
—
—
.
,
KSer
—
V
"° W
°f P^sed-Variety
—
of Colours-Paper Patterns-
27
— —
——
—
— CONTENTS.
X
CHAPTER
IV.
Wool
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — qualities and capabilities — Used Merino — Berlin Wool — Superiority of— Canvas- work and Embroidery — for Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Varieties and duality of German Wool as prepared for Needlework— English Wool—Grounding—Worsteds— Crewels—Yarn—Fleecy— Hamburgh W ool —German Fleecy—Antiquity of the Art of Dyeing — Discovery of the Tyrian Purple —Anecdote relating to 30 Importance Description of Sheep’s Wool the product of Cultivation— History and Preparation Merino, whence derived Invention of Spinning and Weaving mentioned by Moses Linen and woollen cloths of the Egyptians Duties of Women in the Primitive Ages Produce of white Wool Dyeing German Wool Prepared at Gotha Introduction of Merino sheep into Saxony First reared at Stolpen Improvement in the quality of their Wool Different qualities of Wool Employed for Needlework Zephyr Its
its
-Its
for
CHAPTER
V.
Silk
— — — —
Antiquity of its use by the Chinese Silkworms introduced into India and Persia Carried to Constantinople Into Greece Palermo Calabria Italy and Spain Rearing of Silkworms in France The Silkworm of Ceos Quantity of Silk used in England Use of Silk among the Romans Its rarity Sold for its weight in Gold Heliogahalus first wore a Silken RobeGeneral use of Silk at Rome Silkworm described by Pausanias Spinning and weaving Silk introduced into England Marriage of the daughter of Henry III Silk- women in the Reign of Henry IV Silk Stockings worn by Henry VIII Anecdote of Queen Elizabeth Broad Silk manufactured in the time of James I Silk- throwing Mill Improvements of the Manufacture in England Lines, by Cowper, on the Silkworm Varieties of Silk Theii employment in Needlework Mitorse Silk Netting Silk Sewing SilksC rochet Silk Dacca Silk Floss Silk Bourre de Soie Spun Silk Other materials resembling Silk—the Spider— Pinna— Spun Glass 44
—
—
—
—
— — — — —
— —
— —
—
— —
—
CHAPTER
Gold and Silver
—
— —
—
—
—
—
—
— —
—
...
VI.
—
—
Used in the earliest Ages for Embroidery Mentioned in Exodus Invention ascribed to Attalus The Robe of Agrippina The Tunic of Heliogabalus Mantle of th^ statue of Jupiter Vulcan’s Net Remains of ancient wire-
—
—
— — — — day manufacture — Mosaic Gold —Wire-drawing practised Nuremrg introduction into England— Manufacture of GoM and Silver I7 Needlework Gold thread of the Chinese— Passing— Gold cord — Gold braid Bullion Spangles Lama and Paillon— Gold beads — Gold fringes— Military embroidery
work—Wire-drawing
supposed to have been known to the Egyptians Gold thread in the time of the Romans Gold and Silver Thread of the present Its
at
first
ItS
for
Tv?
.
„ Chenille,
CHAPTER
56
VII.
Braid, etc.
Derivation of the term Chenille— Chenilles of Silk, and Wool— Its manufacture— AjiplK atmn of— Braids— Their various kinds— Application of— Union raw acre an d Ecaille Velvet Flowers made of Beads Bugles Paillons and Paillettes— Crepe— China Ribbon . . . 64 .
“^
—
—
—
—— —— — — CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
Canvas
XI
yin.
nA V“ -Snr’rr Sdk Canvas— ^\f'7.
io “ S Sizes— How designated— Mosaic Canvas f lexible Canvas— Cotton CanvasEnglish f’rench and ped Canvas-Imitation Silk Canvas-Thread CaAvas-PeneCs Tapestry-stitch-Flattened Canvas-Its use-Woolhm
ofn Canvas— Bolt^g
70
CHAPTER
„ „ Rerun Patterns
IX.
m
Improvements the Art of Needlework since their Introduction— Their consumption in different countnes-Manufacture of-Process of colourirm-AdZ tation for working— Grounding— Defects of these Patterns— The remedy— mm S I es of painting—. Arrangement of Colours— 1 aces ofFimirJr^U° Faces of Figures— Skies— Materials for working them on— Limner Berlin attemS_EnglishWOrk fr° m &rIin Pa tterns— Hfstory of
M™
.
BerZpI^s
CHAPTER
X.
Drawing Patterns for Embroidery, Braiding, etc.— Designing of Patterns— Drawing on paper— Pouncing— Tracing on the maqUI<]~ L ar e P a ‘ terns Re Petition of the same designMethZof'M^f ; |? ot MM. Revel and Regondet— Patterns on muslins, &c.— Changing
-
i
proportions of Patterns— Drawing —designing on the material .
—
upon various materials
CHAPTER
T Implements Needles— Manufacture of— Their
Satin, Velvet
°&c
XI.
—
antiquity Knitting Needles and Pin<? Netting ]N eedles and Meshes— Crochet and Tambour Needles— Filiere— Embroidery frames— Large frames— Table frames— Standing frames— Tambour frames— Screw Embroidery frames— D’Oyley and Shawl frames— WOrk P " rse stretchers-PuLZulds-Chdn moulH Fol for achfon
-
Framing
CHAPTER
Work
XII.
—L?ather-ClotlT&^alninS canvas Cloth and canvas- Vclvct-Satin-Silk CHAPTER
Stitches
_
—Tent — German
The working
of stitches
stitch
stitch
—
stitches
Embroidery
Irish
XIII.
stitch— Cross stitch— Gobelin or Tapestry Imitation of lace Various fancy
—
stitch
CHAPTER
XIV.
Introduced from the East—the invention of, attributed to Phrygians— Story of Procne— Embroidery mentioned by
Minerva— The Pliny— other ancient
—
—
—
CONTENTS.
xii
—
— —A
—
—
Aholi&b in the authors Homer The embroideries of Helen Andromache time of Moses Embroidery mentioned by Ezekiel Embroidery in gold inlaw of Zaleucus The garments of Tarquiniu* Priscus vented by Attalus Decorative needlework Derivation of the term Embroidery —The Chinese Embroideries from Manilla Embroidery as at present practised in China Indian Embroidery Canadian The negresses of Senegal —The Georgians The Turkish women Modern Greeks The women of Therapia— their extraordinary works— Embroideries of Vienna Milan and Venice France Saxony Nancy and Paris In what the art consists Shaded embroidery Arabesque or Moresque Patterns Flowers Historical subjects, landscapes, and portraits Various materials employed Application of French or flat embroidery Embroidery in chenille Embroidering coats of arms Raised embroidery Raised cut embroidery Embroidery in gold and silver Embroidery in tambour Chain stitch Embroidery by machinery The Weaver’s
—
— — —
—
—
—
— —
—
—
—
— —
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
— —
—
Song
112
CHAPTER XV. Canvas
Work
—
—
—
Rules relating to Right way of the stitch Berlin patterns working from enlarging work from Cross stitch on one thread Mixing of cross and tent stitch Patterns to form a centre Grounding the mode of working various colours for Gobelin stitch Colours Sorting Berlin patterns Flowers Flesh colours Patterns drawn on canvas Crests and coats of arms Introduction of silk with wool Increase and decrease of work from Berlin patterns Illustration of 1^6
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
CHAPTER
—
—
— —
XVI.
Crochet Its varieties
—Stitches —Directions
A sofa pillow, or table cover An easy
Turkish pattern Another Turkish pattern
A table-cover or pillow
....
Working
for
a table cover or pillow for a table cover, etc
for
. . .
. .
Another table-cover
.
Small pine-pattern table-cover
.
Making up
....
crochet table-covers
.
A crochet slipper Chanceliere A plain crochet bag in silk A crochet bag with star-shaped bottom Persian pattern bag A star bottom for a bag with beads A bag with steel or gold beads
. . .
. .
.
Another bag with
An An
steel or gold beads,
and
.
.
silk
of two colours
elegant bag in blue, white, and gold open crochet bag in chenille Other patterns for bags Greek cap in crochet silk Greek cap in coarse chenille penwiper in plain crochet crochet neck chain plain purse in crochet plain crochet purse with square and round ends
A A A A A A
....
. .
. .
. . .
.
.
.
147 149 150 151
152 153 154 155 156 158 159 160 162 162 163 164 164 165 166 167 167 168 168 169 169
CONTENTS.
A plain open crochet purse A short crochet purse A sprigged purse in open and plain crochet Open crochet stitch A purse with beads, in plain and open crochet An
elegant crochet purse with gold Plain double-stitch crochet purse, pine pattern Plain and open crochet purse Another plain and open crochet purse bridal purse short purse or bag in plain stitch double crochet baby’s cradle cover, or a carriage wrapper Another square pattern, with a border . .
A A A A round
xiii
170 170
.... .
.
.
.
171 171 172 173
.174 .175 175 176 177 178
.
.
.
.
.
.179
D’Oyley or mat
’
180
Travelling bags Explanation of terms used in crochet Hints on crochet
181 181
182
CHAPTER
XVII.
Knitting-
—mentioned the Row— Silk stockings worn by — — Invention of Knitting— The Spaniards—the Scots— Knitting practised in Spain and — Hueen Elizabeth’s stockings — The invention of the stocking frame — amusement the blind — employment the poor— Knitting of the cottage in Ireland —Works on knitting— 184 Unknown in England before the sixteenth century leian Forgeries The first stockings knit in England
in
Henry VIII
Italy
it
affords to
to
girls
An
A
.
easy stitch for light scarfs, shawls, babies’ quilts,
D’Oyley Checked or matted pattern .
Harlequin quilt with Turkish knitting
tufts .
:
Raised knitting Knitted fringe Vandyke border
A scalloped fringe or border Another knitted fringe A spaced fringe for a crochet
table cover, etc.
Knitted insertion
.
A Shetland knitted scarf A Brioche la
Josephine
187 188 188 188 190 190 191 191
Bonnets de nuit d’hommes Double nightcap Opera cap Barege knitting for shawls Shetland shawl patterns
Bourse a
etc,
* .
German purse
A strong knitted purse Open stitch purse with beads Herringbone, or Shetland stitch for a purse.
A pence jug or purse
Star-pattern shawl in two colours Plain ribbed muffatees
2
192 193 193 193 194 194 195 197 198 199 200 201 201 202 202 202 203 204 205
CONTENTS.
XIV
Graham
205 206 207 208 209 209 209 210 210
. * muffatees pair of muffatees Pattern for a chair tidy or D’Oyley Double knitting for comforters, etc. knitted bag, with black or garnet beads Dotted knitting for babies’ shoes, etc. knitted bonnet-cap knitted muff in imitation of sable .
^Another
A A A Another muff A baby’s shoe Another very pretty baby’s shoe A baby’s stocking A double knitted scarf, in two colours
....
Cable knitting Knitted cuffs Cover for an air cushion lish napkin, D’Oyley, or Tidy .
.
211
212 213 214 215 215 216 216 217 217 218 218 219 219 219 220 221 221 222 222
•
A A knitted mat
Close stitch for a waistcoat, etc. Honeycomb stitch, for a bag Baby’s hood
Long Open
sleeves to stitch for
wear under the dress a light shawl, D’Oyley,
etc.
Jarretieres
Explanation of terms used in knitting
A weaver’s knot Hints on knitting The fez manufactory at Constantinople Barege, Shetland, and Sanquhar knitting
CHAPTER
XVIII,
Netting
—
—
Antiquity of the Art The nets of the Egyptians mention of, by Pliny and Herodotus Fishermen’s nets Directions for netting -The netting knot 224 228 Plain netted gentleman’s purse . Lady’s purse 229 Gentleman’s purse with ends of different colours 229 lady’s purse with points 229 A pretty purse with chine silk 230 Netting with beads 230 plain netted purse with a bead mouth 230 pretty seme purse with steel or gold beads 231 An elegant netted purse with steel beads 231 Plain netted mittens 232 knitter’s bag with ring 232 A checked or dice pattern purse 233 Grecian netting or filet rose 233 purse in Grecian netting 234 Mittens in Grecian netting 234 Netted fringe 235 Single diamond netting 235 Treble diamond netting 236 Diamond netting, with five stitches 236
—
—
A A
A A
A A
....
—
—
—
—
—
CONTENTS. Seme purse, diamond pattern Open plain netting, or filet a Bagaette Fond de Berlin Filet rose Filet a Baton Filet Rond
XV
.
,
.
.
.
.
rompu .•
Netted mittens with silk and wool Netted cuff with silk and wool
CHAPTER
238 239 239 240 240 241 241 242
XIX.
Braiding and Appligiue
— —
—
Simplicity of braid work executed by the Turks and Greeks braiding in various materials Patterns for working of Introduction of gold cord Groups of flowers in braid Adaptation of braid work— Union cord Silk for sewing on braid finishing of braid work Applique materials of which it is composed its application stamped leather Lames de velours 243 . .
—
— —
—
—
— —
—
—
—
CHAPTER XX. Bead Work German bead work
— application — Glass beads —paucity of their colours bead —Gold and beads — Steel beads — Designs — Introduciion of beads in other works— Tricot— duality of beads— Can247 bead work— Manufacture of glass beads its
Turquoise beads
work
silver
for
vas for
•
CHAPTER
XXI.
Needlework of the English GIueens and Princesses Edward the Elder — Queen Matilda—Adelais, wife of — Katharine of Arragon —mention by Shakspeare— Sonnet—Anne Boleyn — Lady Jane Grey — Queen Mary — Sonnet — Queen Elizabeth — Sonnet—Mary, Queen of Scots — Queen Mary — Queen Charlotte and the Princesses — The Princess Royal, Queen of Wurtemburg— The Princess Sophia— The Princess Augusta— The Princess Amelia— The Duchess of York — The Duchess of Gloucester— Queen Adelaide — Her Majesty— The
The
four daughters of
Henry
I
of,
II
Duchess of Kent
250
CHAPTER Conclusion
The
wme
—The
XXII.
Praise of the Needle
—
“ Needle’s Excellency” Poem by John Taylor account of the Water Poet
—rarity
of the work
258
CONTENTS TO
MRS. GAUGAIN.
PAGE
PAGE
in purse cord, (not purse silk,) 291 spider-net 291 Bag, very beautiful shaded 295 Bag, handsome crotchet
Netting, round, for a gentleman’s long purse 302 Netting, honeycomb, for veil 303 Netting, single diamond 306 Netting, leaf..: 307 Purse, long, Queen Victoria 273 Purse, long, pretty open stitch 274 Purse, Prince Albert’s 280 * Purse, beautiful 283 Purse, Russian crotchet- stitch 285 Purse, long net, for a lady 301 Purse, long net, for a lady 301 Purse, very pretty long Grecian net,
Bag
Bed-Cover, Russian crotchet-stitch... Boot, warm and useful for a baby Boot, long Cap for wearing under the bonnet Comfort, scale stitch Comfort. Coverlet, Baby’s, in garter stitch Cuffs, simple and pretty dress knit... Cuff, another very simple, D’oyley’s, set of open square Echarpe, petite net, for the neck
Edging Edging, beautiful lace Eringe Guard, strong, for a lady or gentle-
man Hood, Baby’s, garter-stitch Kettle-holder Muff, Princess Royal’s scale stitch... Muffetees Muffetee, another Muffetee, warm, for boys. Neckerchief, summer Neckerchief, the roy, triangular net, or Coiffure a Neglige Net, Grecian, for a veil Net, dotted Net, French ground
284 288 290 299 277 287 277 282 283 274 294 279 283 278
for
a lady
tambour
Collar, the lace, Collar, lace for,
16
311
Purse, long, diamond of five stitches 306 Purse, long, plain French double tam-
bour
311
300 277 296 276 293
Purse, long, French tambour 312 Purse, open tambour 313 Purse, open tambour stitch 313 Scarf, elegant knit, with coloured
294 294 282
Scollop for borders of veils, collars,
286 305 308 309
waved ends
297
caps, &c Scollop, another, for border Scollop
..
310 310 310
Shawl, Chinee Triangular Wrapping, garter-stitch
Stocking, under or sleeping Tidy, very beautiful
CONTENTS TO MRS. Collar, the lace, Collar, lace for,
304
Purse, long, of open stitch of single
J.
B.
281 290 278
GORE. PAGE
No. No. No. No.
1 1
2 2
322 323 325 326
Shawl, the Shetland Wool Shawl, border for the Shetland Slipper, the Royal Brighton Purse, the China
321
Wool 322 324 327
— ;
CHAPTER
I
Introinution.
ft
if
The
various kinds of needle- work practised
by our mdefatigab
e
grandmothers
enumerated, would astonish even the most industrious of our modern ladies.”
Douce. •
The
use of sewing
exceedingly old.”
is
Taylor.
J.
EEDLEWORK a
pastime
for
occupation, as
W1 ^
appears to have been not only noble
women, from tbe most
we
consult the
earliest
the high
tbe
principal
of pecuniary advantage,
a source
for
found of
but
ladies,
remote periods.
writings,
estimation
in which
this,
one of the most elegant and useful of the imitative
^ —has and
been
held
in
that from time
all
ages,
and
immemorial,
it
every
in
has
If
abundant proof
arts,
country
ever been
the
constant amusement, and solace, of the leisure hours of
royalty
In arts
itself.
the
time of
practised
by
Moses, needlework ranked the
nations of 2 ,
the
East,
high
among
—embroidery
the
with
;
:
:
INTRODUCTION.
2 and with
gold
and with
silver,
frequently mentioned in the allusion
is'
made
had attained remote terior
to
their
work of the tabernacle
this,
;
thousand four hundred years
knowledge.
Our knowledge
whom From
the
the
had
Israelites
East,
doubtless
spread to
art
this
an-
Homer and
acquired
Greece
civilized Europe.
needlework of the Greeks and
of the
principally to be gathered from
of Helen and
Even
since.
and Rome, and from thence over the whole of
is
where
—
needlework must have been greatly cultivated by
Egyptians, of
the
stones, being
particularly
writings,
a proof that it a considerable degree of perfection at a period so to the
three
as
and precious
silk,
sacred
Pliny.
Romans
The names
Penelope are familiar to every one, as connected
with this subject.
custom among the
There was a memorable
Grecian dames, in accordance with which, they could not accept a
husband, until they had worked the
second
their deceased lords, or his next of kin
grave-clothes
of
and the story of the
fa-
;
mous web of Penelope, fact.
— Penelope
as related
by Plomer,
is
having, as she thought, lost
employed her time in working a shroud
founded upon this
Ulysses at
her husband.
“
Sweet hopes she gave
to every
youth apart,
With well taught looks, and a deceitful heart A web she wove of many a slender twine, Of curious texture, and perplex’d design :
My youths,
my lord but newly court my widow'd bed,
she cried,
Forbear awhile
to
dead,
Till I have wov’n, as solemn vows require, This web, a shroud for poor Ulysses’ sire. His limbs, when fate the hero’s* soul demands, Shall claim this labour of his daughter’s hands Lest all the dames of Greece my name despise, While the great king without a covering lies.
Thus
she.
Nor
did
my
friends mistrust the guile
All day she sped the long laborious
sea,
she
for Laertes, the father of
toil
;
,
INTRODUCTION.
3
But when the burning lamps supplied the sun.
Each night unravell’d what the day begun. Three live-long summers did the fraud prevail
The
amazing
fourth her maidens told
tale
These eyes beheld, as clos^ I took my stand, The backward labours of her faithless hand Till watch’d at length, and press’d on every side, Her task she ended, and commenced a bride.” ;
The ceremony the
statue
down
and
us as one of
to
embroidering of the peplus or veil for
of the
of Minerva,
the
The
peplus was the work of
best
families
the
young
whom
Athens, over
in ,
battles
of
gods
the
and giants
;
Jupiter hurling his thunderbolts against
Minerva, seated
Typhon
Enceladus.f
or
had been eminent
When
it.
was
her
in
The
Panathenaic
the
brought
chariot,
down
from
worked, into the city
it ;
from the
two
On
of
principal,
it
amongst
The Panathenaic
frieze,
the
was
gods
that rebellious crew, and
appeared
the
virtue
vanquisher
of
who
festival
the
were also embroidered on
was
Acropolis,
the
celebrated,
where
it
had
peplus
been
was then displayed and suspended
a sail to the ship, which, on that day, attended
*
the
was embroidered
names of those Athenians
military
for
been handed
selected
virgins,
Arrephora were superintendents.
called
has
consecration,
its
highest festival* of the Athenians.*
by
as
a numerous
with which Phidias embellished the outside of the
temple of the Parthenon, represented this sacred procession, which was celebrated every
The
fifth
marbles) t
year at Athens in honour of Minerva, the guardian goddess of the
remains of this is
frieze
city.
(one of the principal treasures in the collection of Elgin
preserved in the British
Vide the Hecuba of Euripides,
Museum. act
ii.
where the Trojan females are lamenting
in anticipation the evils they will suffer in the land of the
Greeks
:
— “ In the
city
Athena on the beautiful seat, in the woven peplus I shall yoke colts to painting them in various different coloured threads, or else the race of the
of Pallas, of
a chariot, Titans, flame.”
whom
Zeus, the son of Kronos, puts to sleep in fiery all-surrounding
;
INTRODUCTION. and splendid procession, was conducted through the
and other principal Acropolis
;
exact nature
generally
is
covering
of
the
supposed
suspended
the
circuit
of the
Parthenon, and there
the
to
have
to
the
been statue
;
sort
of
the
goddess.
of Euripides
“Then from the treas’ry of the god he takes The consecrated tap’stry, splendid woof! To clothe with grateful shade the wondrous
but
awning
a
of
covering, but
similar
a
given in the u Ion”
is
has been disputed
peplusf
over
following description of
dimensions,
had made
it
Minerva.*
consecrated to
The
streets, till
was then carried up
it
Ceramicus
it
or
The
more ample
of :
scene.
First o’er the roof he spreads the skirted peplus,
(The
skirts
Spoil of the
on every side hang waving down), Amazons, the votive gift,
That Hercules,
heroic son of Jove,
Return’d from conquest,
On
offer’d to Apollo.
produce of the loom are wrought
this rich
The Heav’ns, The num’rous
within whose spacious azure round host of stars collective shine
down to his western goal The Sun 1ms driven his last expiring beams Draw forth the radiant light of Hesperus His coursers
there,
;
;
Night urges on amain With slacken’d reins her steeds and dusky car The Constellations on their swarthy queen Attend there thro’ the mid heav’ns win their way The Pleiades his sword Orion grasps Above them shines the Bear, circling round In sable
stole
;
;
;
;
'
Heav’n’s golden axis
;
while the full-orb’d Moon,
That halves the varying months,
*
Vide
+
Stuart’s
Athens
,
vol.
ii.
p. 8.
work of Phidias. “ Peplus, a garment and the like
Dory and
darts from
The famous
on high
statue of
Minerva was
oi
gold, the
ment, or to cover something Pepli of Minerva.”
;
that
it
:
the use of
it
is
signifies a covering,
—Pollucis Onomasticon
,
twofold, to
we may
wear
13. For a further and Reliqucz Alticce
lib. vii. c.
of the peplus, vide Meursius in his Panathcenaia
as a gar-
conclude from the
.
description
INTRODUCTION. Her
To
grateful splendor
The
and gloomy in the
;
he
Middle
the
Church,
the
Librarian,*
nificence
wrought
were
and
glittering train.”
Ages, decorative if
we may
and
others,
scarcely
ecclesiastics, the
pearls,
Aurora
east
harbinger of day, that from the sky
Chases night’s
In
there the Hyades,
;
mariners unerring well-known sign,
Appear
of
J
was
be
to
believe
with
the
the
carried
most
palls,
of
service
Anastasius
an excess of
to
vestments
and the
costly
being
stones,
the
for
writings
The
credited.
altar-cloths, the
precious
needlework
veils
materials
—
;
lavished
with
dynasty,!
the
mag*
of
the
or curtains, gold,
the
silver,
utmost
profusion.
were
ladies
embroider
and English work
their needlework,
for
was long proverbial abroad
their
Saxon
England, during the
In
famous
chambers
exploits ladies ;
of
those
their
of
Greece
husbands
of the highest rank
women were
Anglicum
opus)
The Anglo-Saxon
for its excellence.^
accustomed, like
the
(
and
Rome,
on the hangings thus
to of
occupied their
Vide Anastasius Bibliothecarius, de Vitis Pontificum Romanorum. Edit. ii. p. 127, and numerous other passages. t The art of embroidery appears to have been unknown in England before the seventh century, in fact we find no mention of it, or even of the weaving of figured textures, until about the year 680. At this period, in a book written by Aldhelm, bishop of Shereburn, in praise of virginity, he observes, that chastity alone did not form an amiable and perfect character, but required and this observation to be accompanied and adorned by many other virtues he further illustrates by the following simile taken from the art of weaving “ As it is not a web of one uniform colour and texture, without any variety of figures, that pleaseth the eye and appears beautiful, but one that is woven by shuttles, filled with threads of purple, and many other colours, flying from side to side, and forming a variety of figures and images, in different comparlVirgimtate in Bibliotheca ments, with admirable art.” Vide Aldhelm, de *
Paris, 1G49, vol.
;
—
Palrum tom. ,
t
xiii.
Gul. Pictavens.
p.
211.
,
:
•
INTRODUCTION.
0 hours,
leisure
more
also
as
working
in
particularly
various
We
ornaments for the Church, and the vestments of the Clergy. are
told
by William of Malmesbury,
younger days, did not disdain in the drawing of a design
which she
wrought
afterwards
Edward
daughters of
to
for
that
pious and noble lady
assist a
embroidering a sacerdotal
robe,
The
four
in
of
threads
Elder, and
the
Dunstan, in his
St.
gold.
of
sisters
king Athelstan,
were highly praised and distinguished on account of their great assiduity and skill both in spinning, weaving, and needlework;*
accomplishments which, so far
royal maidens, procured for them the princes
widow
in
Europe.
In
of the
her needle the deeds that
her deceased lord.
of
among
the
other
embroidered with the siege
gifts
of
At
church on his birth day.f
a
among
Troy, to
Robert,
abbot of
St.
Albans, to
*
William of Malmesbury,
t
Ingulphus,
p.
b.
ii.
c.
be
later period,
the valuable
his
'
made by
of richly worked sandals, and three mitres, the
abbess of Markgate, were
the
to
Ingulphus, in
Witlaf, king
of Mercia, to the abbey of Croyland, he presented a tain,
greatest
Edelfreda,
find
on which she had depicted with
veil or curtain,
history, mentions
we
duke of Northumberland, presenting
of Brithned,
church of Ely a
addresses
century,
tenth
the
—
from injuring the fortunes of these
golden cur-
hung up
— 1155,
work of gifts
a
Christina,
presented
Pope Adrian IV.J
in
pair
by
Numerous
5.
487, edit. 159G.
the only Englishman who ever sat in St. Peter’s chair. X Adrian IV. was His name was Nicolas Breakspoar he was born of poor parents at Langley, near St. Alban’s. Henry II. on his promotion to the papal cnair, sent a deputation of an abbot and three bishops to congratulate him on his election upon which occasion he granted considerable privileges to the abbey of St. :
Alban’s.
With
the exception of the presents
other valuable ones cept your
you
gifts,
which were
because
refused me.”
when
To which
I
named
above, he refused
offered him, saying jocosely,
wished to take th
the abbot pertinently
habit
—“
I
all
the
will not
ac-
of your monastery
and smartly
replied,
—
It,
—
—
INTRODUCTION. other
were
might
instances
be
from
cited
used to work
with their
and
mistresses ;
monks, practised decorative needlework.* Reformation,
the
cluded
monkish
the
necessary to enter more fully into
it
of
life
nuns,
Maids the
the
time of
occupation of
the se-
fact, to
various
the
in
historians
subject.
men, especially
In
formed the principal
it
the
the
houses
religious
throughout England.
Hangings
or
such as we have mentioned,
veils,
and
“ tapestry richly wrought
And woven were
the
principally
of
occupied
the
these
may
The
noble residences.
frequently
still
be seen in some
or
silk
with
intermixed
of various
and
gold
groundwork of canvass, or texture of very
different,
Gobelins:
— an
of
fingers
times,
the
fair.
of our royal and
designs were worned, or embroidered, with
with worsted
needle,
and
attention
former
which, in
needlework,
description
Remnants of
a
close.”
however, from
those
colours,
silver
cloth or
either
and not unon
threads, silk,
in
of Flanders,
invention, comparatively speaking, of
a
manner
a
or
modern
the
times,
partaking more of the character of weaving than of needlework,
and of which we
when speaking of
The
shall
in
make more
especial
mention,
general.
celebrated needlework of Bayeux, doubtless the most ancient
specimen in existence,!
was not
hereafter
tapestry
for
us to
is
supposed to have been the work of
oppose the will of Providence, which had destined you for
greater things.” *
The
practice
of
needlework, even
Many
at
the
present
day,
is
not
entirely
men, particularly officers of the army, have not deemed the use of the needle more derogatory than that of the pencil. Most of the best specimens of embroidery done on the continent, more especially tne appendages of the sacerdotal and military dress, are executed by men t We must not omit to mention the pall used at the funeral of Sir William
confined to the softer sex.
INTRODUCTION. William the Conqueror, and
Matilda, queen oi
whom
was presented
it
to the cathedral of
where the canons w ere accustomed
in
Normandy,
people with
to gratify the
r
exhibition on particular occasions.
of a continuous
It consists
by
maidens,*
lier
Bayeux
its
web
of cloth, two hundred and twenty-seven feet in length, and twenty
borders at top and bottom,
inches in width, including the
formed of grotesque figures of
are
which are supposed
birds, animals,
The whole
the bodies of the slain.
worsted, representing the various
Walworth,
In the part
to represent the fables of iEsop.
is
border
lower
pourtraying the battle of Hastings, the
of
connected with the inva-
in the fourth year of Richard II. a. d. 1381.
The ends which
consists
worked or embroidered with
events
This, perhaps the liost
magnificent piece of ancient needlework in existence,
Fishmongers’ Company.
these
some of
&c.,
preserved by the
is still
are exactly similar,
represent
St.
on a throne, clothed in pontificial robes, and crowned with he is giving the benediction with one hand, whilst in the the papal tiara other he holds the keys. On either side of the saint is an angel scattering Peter
seated
;
The
incense from a golden vase.
sides
of the
which are
pall,
also
similar,
Company at either end Peter. The faces of the
are richly decorated with the arms of the Fishmongers’
the centres represent our Saviour giving the keys to figures
(including those of the
merman and mermaid, the supporters of but we would more particularly call
arms) are most beautifully executed
;
attention of those interested in such
may
works
justly be termed a masterpiece of art.
ately
wrought
in
gold,
silver,
;
and
silk,
to the
face of our
The whole
is
pall, it is
has been
lost,
supposed,
and
its
was
place
the stamp of great antiquity.
on a coarse kind of linen cloth;
originally embroidered in the
on a
chief,
relief.
The
top
same manner, but
it
now supplied by a rich brocade of gold, bearing The arms of the Fishmongers’ Company are, azure,
is
three dolphins, naiant in pale, between
crowned, or;
which and elabor-
Saviour,
richly
the ground being composed entirely of gold, with a pattern in
of the
the the
two
pairs of lucies, in salterwise, proper,
gules, three couple of keys, crossed, as the
crowns;
supported on the dexter side by a merman, armed, and on the sinister by a mermaid, holding a mirror in her left hand; crest, two arms sustaining a crown v Motto, “ All worship be to God only. ” ,
* tile
Though Queen Matilda greater part of
at this period, as
it
—
directed the working of the Bayeux Tapestry, yet was most probably executed by English ladies, who were
we have
before stated, celebrated for their needlework.
-
INTRODUCTION. of England
sion and conquest
9
by tbe Normans
altogether, exclusive of the borders, about five
The
only being females.
figures, three
supposed from the period in which
it
It
comprises
hundred and thirty
may
colours, as
be readily
was executed, are not very
numerous, consisting only of dark and light blue, and green, low,
and
and
buff*
have become considerably faded, whilst the cloth
brown
a
itself
This curious piece of work appears
tinge.
red, yel-
hundred
these, after a lapse of nearly eight
j
years,
has assumed to
have been
wrought without any regard to the natural colours of the subjects depicted,
—the horses being
represented blue, green, red, and yellow,
and many of them have even two of their their
to
bodies
;
—
for
as
legs of a different colour
and a yellow mane, whilst the hoofs are
The drawing barous,”
of the figures
been
has
has two red legs
horse
instance, a blue
also
of another colour. u
termed
the correct
outline
properly termed
of the
The work
painter.
embroidery;
—the
faces of the
outline
chain
of the
features
Nevertheless,
stitch.
needlework, at the
and
bar-
it
excites
being merely taking
traced
whole
the
of that kind
is
figures,
other parts, are formed of the material composing the
rude
but in the needlework of this age, we must not look for
the
ground,
—
a kind of
in as
and some
a
piece
of
our admiration, and we cannot but wonder
energy of mind which could with so much industry embody
the actions of a series of events ever
memorable in the pages of
history.*
An
idea of the various descriptions of needlework practised by
English ladies
in
the
sixteenth
century,
may
be
gathered
from
some of the poems of the laureate Skelton. * Some beautifully coloured engravings of the Bayeux Tapestry, from draw-
by Mr. Stothard, have been published by the Society of Antiquaries in the “ Vetusta Monumenta;” as also in the magnificent work recently published iu Paris, by M. Aroliille Jubinal, entitled “ Les Anciennes Tapisseries Histories.” ings
—
;
INTRODUCTION.
10 “
With that the tappettes and carpettes were layde, Wheren these ladyes softely might rest, The sampler to sowe on, the laces to embroyde.
To weave With,
some were
in the stole
slaies,
with
tavels,
full prest,
with hedelles well
drest,
The frame was brought forth, with his weaving God give them good speed their work to begin. **
pin
;
Some to embroider, put them in prease, Well gydyng their glotten to keep straight their silke Some pyi lyng of golde, their work to encrese, With fingers small, and handes as white as mylke, With reche me that skayne of tewly sylke, And wynde me that batoume of such an hewe, Grene, red, tawney, whyte, purple, and blewe.”
From
the time of Elizabeth,*
when
the study of the dead lan-
guages, and the cultivation of the more abstruse sciences, became the fashion of the day, the art of needlework, although possessing
many
so
England
except some its
*
and capable of such
attractions,
appear, in
at least,
to
occasional intervals,
when
former importance, paramount to
At
studied
Greek,
Spanish,
variety,
Italian
and
it
would if
we
has for a time resumed
other feminine amusements
all
occupation of needlework, ladies
this period, in addition to the pleasing
Latin,
endless
have been much neglected,
The
Fiench.
“
more ancient
”
among them exercised themselves, some with the needle, some with “ caul work ” (probably netting), “ divers in spinning silk, some in continual reading either of the Scriptures or of histories,
works of others
“ their lutes, citharnes, and
then understood.
household duty
The
of their own, or translating the
The younger
;
the distillation
branches also applied to of music,” which
were deemed an important of waters, and the acquiring some
pricksongs, and
all
preparing of confectionary
for ladies
knowledge both
either
into Latin or English.”
kinds
was
also
and surgery likewise occupied their attention as, until the time of Henry VIII. there had been no licensed practitioners in either of these branches of science. The mewing of sparrow hawks and merlins, much engaged the attention of the younger portion of the female sex. One great and important office, however, must not be omitted, namdly, the distribuin physic
tion of charitable doles by the lady of each parish or
(hen unknown.
— Vide
Holinskcd's Chronicle.
;
manor, poor’s rates being
—
— INTRODUCTION.
In the time of Addison, letter to the
..
“
*
“ I
mentioned in
thus
is
Mr. Spectator,
have a couple of nieces under
Their
their
dress,
and they go
to
and their
tea,
visits,
who
direction, to
up
take
so often
have
their time
all
I
am
The only time they
jinder-petticoat
them.
after
are not
while they read your Spectators’; which being dedicated
is
to the interests of virtue,
neglected
out
years,
fifty
my
hand.
For
and by It
recommend
to
and the or
receipts,
hangings, for the family.
you
Those hours which in
dress, play, visits,
time, in writing
out of
desire
I
art of needlework.
thrown away in
these
my
know where
that I don’t
bed as tired with doing nothing, as
whole
quilting a
my
discontinuance
its
Spectator.”
run gadding abroad,
idle,
ll
my
were employed, in
working beds,
part, I
my good will my heart to
grieves
idle flirts sipping their tea, for a
like,
long
the
this age are
chairs,
have plyed
my
and
needle
would never have see a couple of
it
proud
whole afternoon, in a room hung
round with the industry of their great-grandmother.
Pray,
sir,
take the laudable mystery of embroidery into your serious consideration, ,
and as you have a great deal of the virtue of the
continue your endeavours to reform the present.
7
the close of the
last
again
much
Coloured
At
silks,
scape
in vogue.
century,
needlework
embroideries,
in imitation of paintings, comprising
and
shells; these
historical
subjects,
fruit,
all
of
with
last
age in
1
am, &c.,”
all
kinds was
crewels
and
the varieties of land-
flowers,
were principally worked on satin or
birds, animals,
and
lute-string, the faces
and other parts of the human figure being generally painted on the material, as being these are not
more
difficult to
embroider.
Specimens of
unfrequently to be met with, in w hich the work T
is
INTRODUCTION.
12
most beautiful and
During tbe war, a great number
elaborate.
of delicate and ingenious kinds
work were done by
of
soners and emigrants in fine silk and hair.
an
spangling of fans, then
appendage
absolute
tbe pri-
The ornamenting and the
to
of
dress
every lady, must not be forgotten. Besides
coloured
the
much
embroideries,
and dotted
of line
or
on white satin or
silk
gradations of
from
drawn upon
tint,
a
to
grey,
darker
the
in
needle,
fine
black
the material
close imitation
—the
various
being
design
were
parts
of
silks
first
worked much
;
together
closer
with
—a
,
These were worked
engravings.
stippled
and ingenuity
skill
were displayed in what was termed 'print-work
than
the
or
lighter
middle shades, and in those
imitating dotted engravings the stitches were extremely small
the
:
whole art consisted in representing as closely as possible the lines of the
engraver,
and patience see
in
to
—a
work,
these
pieces.
When
more
closely
resembled
stitches
which
however,
produce the beautiful fine
required both
engravings
those
of
the
engraver.
This
were
of the usual
but were kept wider apart, so as to imitate the lines
species
of
skill
which we sometimes
effects
the
copied,
embroideries,
black
and
white
work was peculiarly
adapted for representing architectural subjects.
In addition to the
above, numerous different kinds of needlework were practised, but the mere benefit, as
enumeration of these would be productive of but
little
most of them have long since given place to others of
a superior description.
In a work of this
kind, a “
Hand-book” of the present
of needlework, and of the best means we possess of bringing perfection,
it
is
scarcely necessary that
into the early history of the art.
and successfully done Wilton, and
under the
we should
enter
more
state it
to
fully
This has already been so ably auspices
withal, in so entertaining a
of the
Countess
of
manner, accompanied with
INTRODUCTION.
13
deep research, as to leave no stone unturned, or any want
such
upon the
In
subject.
needlework
ages
all
has been applied to
the same purposes, either for the adornment of the person, or the
mansions
the
of
decoration
maidens of Egypt
Rome ;*
and
Greece
of
be
yet
with the
themselves
occupied
loom,
remembered that
it
then equally
the distaff and spindle, and with the
For such did the
of the wealthy.
ply the needle; and again, in after times, those
the
also
more toilsome mysteries of
which they were pre-eminently
at
they
feminine labours of
skilful,
as is fully
proved by the remains of ancient textures, which the researches of
modern
travellers
It
scarcely
is
ancient
celebrated
This lady, who
Linwood.
the is
now
of
accomplished
this
woven
thick kind of tammy,
of
her
in
thirteen
completed at the age of seventy-
she
piece
last
The works
either
surpassed
commenced her labours when only
year,
her
old;
eight.
any needlework,
ever
has
times,
of Miss
eighty-seventh
to light.
be imagined that
modern
or
productions
years
have brought to
artist
are executed
on a
expressly for her use, with fine crewels,
dyed under her own superintendence; they are entirely drawn and embroidered by
herself,
being put in by received, if indeed
her needles.
London, Guido. f
no background or other unimportant parts
a
less
it
may
skilful
her
The
first
piece,
â&#x20AC;&#x153; Salvator
been considered the
finest
still
exhibited in Leicester-square,
the Head' of
St.
from
sum
we
of three thousand guineas.
were not deemed unsuitnor did a princess degrade her dignity by superintending the
abours of the loom, the t
Peter, a copy
production of her needle, for which
* In the simplest days of Greece, those occupations :
she
assistance
Mundi,â&#x20AC;? from Carlo Dolci, has generally
are informed she refused the
able to palaces
only
be called such, was in the threading of
In her collection,
is
hand, the
Marked No. 24
distaff,
and the dyeing
in the Catalogue.
3*
vat.
INTRODUCTION.
14
•
i
“To raise at once our reverence and delight, To elevate the mind and charm the sight, To pour religion through th’ attentive eye, And waft the soul on wings of extacy; For
mimic
this the
And
The “Woodman
in a Storm,
Vow,” from Opie,
tha’s rash
production
is
art
with nature
vies,
bids the visionary form arise.”
“
the
5
’
also
from
Gainsborough, and
rank among her
Judgment upon Cain,”
Jep-
Her
best.
one
c
last
of the largest
pictures in the gallery. “
And 1
said,
“
1
And
he
1
not
me And now
1
from the ground. thou cursed from the earth which hath opened her mouth
art
to receive thy brother’s blood
“
1
When
strength “
thou
tillest
from thy hand.
the ground
it
shall
not henceforth yield unto thee her
a fugitive and a vagabond shalt thou be in the earth.’
;
And
1
'l
:
said,
crieth unto
“
Where is Abel thy brother V And he am I my brother’s keeper ” What hast thou done ? The voice of thy brother’s blood
the Lord- said unto Cain,
know
Cain said unto the Lord,
The whole
collection
Miss Linwood
portrait of
Within the
last
few
considerable
attracted
of the art
may
‘
My
consists herself,
punishment
is
I can bear”
of sixty-four pieces, including a
from a painting by Russell.
years, ornamental
attention,
greater than
and
needlework has
although
again
modern
the
style
as yet be considered in its infancy, it has already
so far progressed as infinitely to surpass the labours of the ingen-
ious
may
women be
of bygone times.
Needlework may be regarded
(if
allowed the expression) as the sister art of painting
we the
;
aim of the accomplished needlewoman of the present day, being to
produce as true a picture of nature as possible
soaring far ;
beyond the common-place ideas of the ancient embroideries, which, perhaps, are more to be admired for the richness of their materials,
and the labour bestowed upon them, than as
works of
art.
We
would wish
for
any merit they possess
to see the needle
and embroidery
INTRODUCTION. frame rescued from any doubt
accomplishments, in
among
or
their capa-
more elegant of female
the
worthy of occupying the elevated position
which the talent of Miss Linwood has placed them. It will,
at
— and
to their utility,
as
of taking a higher stand
bility
15
by some, that needlework,
perhaps, be urged
present
the
but
time, is
a
mechanical
art ;
as practised
and the
recent
may somewhat favour the opinion. disown, no one, who regards the work
invention of Berlin 'patterns
we
This, however,
entirely
—
commonly done
of the mere copyist of these designs, (as in
Germany, where neither
for sale
nor judgment are displayed in
taste
the selection of the colours, nor skill in the appropriation of them)
can compare
with that of the talented needlewoman, who, even
it
may have worked what may be
though she
pattern, produces
for
stitch
stitch
justly termed
—a
from the
same
“ painting with
the needle.”*
No
feminine art affords greater scope for the display of taste
The
and ingenuity than that of needlework. form which work,
—
as
gros point petit point ,
of embroidery easy,
mazes of
;
—and
,
and point de Gobelin
tricot filet, ,
and crochet
,
—each
as graceful occupations for the young,
the latter
—in
that
Even
in their turn serving
and an inexhaustible source
advanced period of
descriptions of work, as these
* All descriptions of canvas
the last few years.
,
again in the apparently intricate, but really
of amusement for those in a more particularly
variety of
endless
assumes under the various denominations of tapestry
it
work have undergone
so recently as
life
can
;
be,
more and
great improvement within
1829, they were
dismissed with the
following brief account, in a work dedicated to the pursuits of young ladies. “ Worsted- work, on canvas, is a subordinate description of embroidery. It is applied to the production of rugs for urns, covers of ottomans, bell-pulls, and
many
other elegant articles.
on canvas, strained
The
outline of the pattern
in the middle of a frame.”
—
!
!
is
sketched with a pen
— INTRODUCTION.
16 are
frequently, practised
deprivation of sight. Griffiths,
genious
u that the
women
of
by persons even when labouring under has opportunely been observed
It
of needleworks which
great variety other
countries,
well
as
as
our
by Mrs. the in-
own,
have
invented, will furnish us with constant and amusing employment;
and though our labours bury’s, yet, if they
the
may
of any elegant or
progress
purpose of domestic amusement
our the
situation satisfaction
do
Mineron’s or an Ayles-
not equal a
unbend the mind, by
not
call
of knowing
fixing its
imitative and,
;
forth
that
when
our
we
art,
the
at
on
answer the
higher duties of
exertions, are,
attention
they
we may
least,
feel
innocently
employed.”* In conclusion, to quote the words of John Taylor, the water poet, it
may
be said,
“Thus is a needle prov’d an instrument Of profit, pleasure, and of ornament, Which mighty queenes have grac’d in hand
*
Es8*y»,
p, 66.
to take.
:
CHAPTER
II
Scipcstrg.
tt This bright art Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan hands,
While she
To
assay’d with rage of holy
desolate their fields
Long were Tyre
And
also,
:
but old the
war skill
the Phrygians’ pict’ring looms renown’d
wealthy seat of
art, excell ’d,
elder Sidon, in th’ historic web.”
Dyer. “ For round about the walls yclothed were
With
goodly arras of great maiesty,
Woven
with gold and silke so close and nere
That the
As
rich metall lurked privily
faining to be hid from envious eye;
Yet here, and there, and everywhere, unwares Jt
shewd
itselfe
and shone unwillingly
;
Like a discolourd snake, whose hidden snares Through the greene gras his long bright burnisht back declares.”
Faery Queene.
HE
last
given
quotation forms part of the description,
by
Spenser,
of
beautiful
the
tapestry
which Britomart saw in one of the apartments of the house
of Busyrane
;
and the poet had
probably in view the actual specimens of tapescry
men
frequently to be seen in the principal mansions of the
nobility in England. 3
— TAPESTRY.
18
The
tapestry, appears
decoration of the walls of palaces with
have
to
Homer
been
custom
a
even
practised
in
the
ages.
earliest
says “ The walls, through all their length, adorn’d With mantles overspread of subtlest warp Transparent, work of many a female hand.”
The mode
term
the
for
tapestry
fabric,
—such
and
with
article
England, rendered
in
some :
restricted
description
of
although
the
and to
one
species
of
—yet
was formerly applicable
it
to
ornamental hangings for the walls of apartments
less
loom was employed
the
before
these,
least,
necessary
generally
and even in
ancients,
produced at the “ Manufacture Royale des
Beauvais,
at
the
castles
at
or,
absolutely
now
is
as that
kinds of
all
decoration,
walls,
and
Gobelins,”
the baronial
times, in
mode of
such a lining
adopted "by
of building
more recent
to
labour and expense, were
furnish
;
similar
a
generally the needle-
work of female hands.* an extremely remote
at
introduced into like
buted the
to
Phrygians
the
Trojan
embroideries
war, ;
of
were
the ;
has
women
celebrated
eastern
from whence they
The
needlework,
of
inhabitants
the era,
Greece and Rome. kinds
other
all
among
known
were
Tapestries countries
for
invention of
been
generally
of
Sidon,
their
were
the
long
tapestries
art,
attri-
before
and
and those of Phseacia, the island on which Ulysses
was wrecked, were, according
to
“ Far as Phaeacian mariners
Homer, equally all
noted.
else
Surpass, the swift ship urging through the floods,
s
So
AW
far
in tissue-work
the
women
pass
by Minerva’s skill endow’d With richest fancy and superior skill.”
*
The
the Latin
others,
from the French, whence it is derived from Tapete which again comes from the Greek ranns
term Tapestry comes
word Tapes
or
TAPESTRY.
supposed by Bottiger, that the Greeks took their ideas
It is
of
and
griffins
centaurs from the
fantastic combinations selected
needlewomen in
the
of
taste
whole surface of
longer covered the
It
borders
the
with the the
art,
was
dyer,
needle, to
the
while
only,
narrated that Arachne, a
is
The
art.
became
and
talents
refined
in
visible
the
work, but
the
were
no con-
more
received
centres
of
systematic representations.
Idmon, a
of
compositions of the
and these unnatural combinations
;
to
display
Athenians, however, soon
the
regular and
grotesque the
for
department of oriental
this
design of their tapestry
fined
19
so
of Colyphon, daughter
working these
in
Minerva, the
challenged
that she
a trial of
woman
skilful
tapestries
goddess of
She represented in her designs the
skill.
amours of Jupiter with Europa, Antiope, Leda, Asteria, Danae, and
goddess.* Alcmene
fect
and although
;
it is
reported that her performance was per-
and masterly, yet she was defeated by Minerva, and hanging
herself in
After tapestry
again
despair,
the
fall
appears
introduced,
Crusaders,
as,
was changed into a spider by the
Roman
of
the
to
have
as
with
been
empire, the
from
exception
the
in
lost
supposed,
is
of
Tapestry, we find but few traces of
it
art
Europe, until Levant,
the
the
from the early manufacturers in France being or Sarazinois
>r
TOLTng.
covering
,
this
opinion
is
it
was
by
the
Bayeux
far-famed
until that
*
working
of
period
:
and
Sarazius
called
,
considerably strengthened.
According to the best authorities, any kind, generally composed
of
it
signified
of
an outer garment, or wrought or em-
wool, and
broidered in figures with various colours, such as hangings for walls, coverlets
The or tables, or carpets, or even for horse-cloths. Used in the writings of Pliny, Virgil, Martial, and other Latin * Vide Ovidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Metamorphoses b. vi. Minerva, as the goddess arts, was invoked by every artist, particularly by such as worked /or beds,
term
is
thas
authors.
of the liberal
,
briidery, painting,
and sculpture.
holding a distaff instead of a spear.
In
many
of her statues she
in wool,
is
em-
represented
tapestry;
20
The
have been long
tc
France
were
Whether
date.
Flemings
the
knowledge from the East,
having restored scarcely,
silks,
at
England
in
was not
time
the
of
particular
to
life
paintings
the
to
was
tapestry
first
wools and
of
the best
introduced
Henry VIII, by William Sheldon
of
James
until the reign of
I.
that
it
into
but
;
acquired any par-
This monarch greatly patronised the
ticular reputation.
their
certainly due the honour of
is
which gives a
inferior
all,
The weaving
masters.
it
this curious art, if
them the
derive
not
did
or
of the
history
his
mentioning any
did
them
to
or
1582, ascribes to
without
but
tapestries,
at
England
manufactured by
first
Guicciardini, in
appear
principally
into
either
Netuerlands, published at Antwerp in invention of
country,
that
introduced
uncertain.
is
in
when they were
the precise period,
:
Flemings
the
of Flanders, and they
those
established
they
before
Arras,*
weaving tapestry which acquired
manufactories for
first
reputation in Europe, were
and
art,
gave the sum of two thousand pounds towards the advancement
by
of a manufactory, which was established
The
Mortlake in Surrey. fabrics in
patterns
England were obtained from
been worked by foreign
artists ;
were
furnished
by Francis
There
purpose.!
*
at
which had already
pieces
but as the tapestries produced in
sum
Aroges,
in 1,
Rymer’s
that
retained
he owed Sir
is
an
ac-
Francis Crane thjit
he grants
we frequently meet with Antwerp, Brussels, Oudenarde,
derived the term “arras” which
synonymous with and Tournay, were
authors, Lille,
that
for
u Fcedera,” J
of six thousand pounds for tapestries, and
From whence old
who was
Cleyn,
extant
is
knowledgement from Charles
n
Crane
Sir Francis
used for making these
country acquired greater celebrity and perfection, the designs
this
the
first
latter is still
noted for
its
t
Walpole,
vol.
tapestry.
also
celebrated
for
their
tapestries
carpet manufactories. ii.
p.
128.
I
Vol.
xviii. p.
112.
;
the
TAPESTRY.
him
the annual
him
enable
To
Quatre
first
whom
are indebted
and costly
curious
this
the
for
art has
was
by
conducted
he had invited from Flanders
but
great
Paris,
at
Colbert,
and would probably have
the
artists
this, like
many
similar
again remodeled
that period
it
been entirely
at
had not
so,
Versailles
for
and the Tuil-
upon a more secure foundation, and from
royal manufactory of the
the
neglected
Louis XIV, with a view of providing
minister of
the costly and magnificent furniture leries,
about
clever
;
death,
Henri
several
founded by that monarch, was greatly
institutions
perfection
been brought.
a tapestry manufactory
established
1606, which
the year
his
of two thousand pounds for ten years, to
to support his establishment.
France, however, we
which
to
sum
21
“Hotel des Gobelins”
dates its origin.
The working
that a brief description lins ”
may
treatise
As
the
to
of the
“
on the
century dyers of wool were settled
fourteenth St.
Marcel,
Paris,
at
of dyeing.
One
on
the
of these,
named Jean
dants increased, and at length renouncing the
by to
various offices of
Messrs.
state.
banks
of
the
were considered as favourable
lived in 1450, amassed considerable wealth,
filled
is,
art of needlework.
Faubourg
the process
who
species of weaving,
Manufacture Royale des Gobe-
Bievre, the waters of which stream to
a
achievements of the needle,
not be considered uninteresting, or out of place in a
early as the
the
in
although
of tapestry,
nevertheless, so closely allied
whivh
Gobelin,
his descen-
business
of dyers,
The Gobelin family were succeeded
Canaye, who however did not confine their attention
the dyeing of
wool, but under the patronage of
* Sully, the celebrated minister of
Henry
IV., says,
— “ On
Henry IV.*
eut de la peine
a convenir de prix avec ces celebres Tapissiers Flamands, qu’on
avoit
fait
— 22
TAPESTRY.
commenced
the working of tapestry, which until that period had
been confined to a
1655,
Low
the
named
Dutchman,
workman, and a great suggestion
of
family,
and established them
drawn up
charter which was
the
“
made
at
Jean
one
art.
still
in
succeeded,
these
a
Lianson,
Louis XIY,
afterwards
Colbert,
buildings and gardens which were lin
and
Glucq,
proficient in the
minister,
his
To
Countries.
at
the
purchased
the
the property of the Gobe-
as a royal
In
manufactory.
that time, the building
a
called
is
Hotel des Gobelins,” from which circumstance the tapestry there has ever
Skilful
weavers and dyers, were brought from Flanders
artists,
and attached painter
Le
been known as “ Gobelin Tapestry.”
since
to
the
and in 1667 the celebrated
establishment;
Brun was appointed
chief director
Gobelin
of the
manufactory, to which he communicated that beauty and grandeur, his
admirable
talents
were so well calculated to
He
produce.
here painted the famous series of the battles of Alexander, which
were afterwards worked in tapestry, and
The
productions of the Gobelins.
and the history of the principal riage to his
first
designs of this
At
venir a
remain the
acts of
finest
Louis XIY, from his mar-
Franche Comte, were
conquest of
master.*
still
four Seasons, the four Elements,
also
from the
*
the period of the French revolution, this manufacture, which
si
grands
qu’il leur seroit
frais.
Enfin
il
fut conclu,
en presence de
donne pour leur etablissement, cent
ayant, disoit-il, soigneux de m’avertir de leur payer server, et grand peur de perdre les avances faites j usque-la. ‘
*
;
Sillery et
que Henri grande envie de
mille francs,
*
II
de moi, fut tresles
con-
auroit seulement
bien voulu que ces manufacturiers se fussent contentes d’autres deniers, que ceux qu’il s’etoit reserves falloit les satisfaire.”
* ries
pour lui-meme
:
Memoires tom. ,
mais enfin a quelque prix que ce vi. p.
fut,
il
371.
Engravings of some of these will be found in “ Devises pour les Tapissedu Roy, ou sont representez les quatre elemens et les quatre saisons de
I’annee.”
fol.
Paris, 1679
—
:
TAPESTRY.
23
had until then been prosecuted with various degrees of greatly declined, but under the
revived, and has since to the
same extent
government of Napoleon
success,
was again
it
been successfully carried on, although not
About the year 1802 ninety
as formerly.
per-
sons were employed at the Gobelins, chiefly in the preparation of the
tapestry, for
of
palace
Cloud; and
St.
150,000 francs were expended yearly on
executed
pieces
are
sionally requires the single
generally
their size than
The productions by
and
subjects,
The
cost
of some
occa-
it
by
of these pieces
articles
regulated
is
is
less
the beauty and difficulty of the work.*
of this manufactory, which
is
entirely supported
the government, are chiefly destined for the
for presents
The
these productions.
historical
enormous, but the price of the different
by
was estimated that
labour of from two to six years to finish a
of tapestry.
piece
it
made by the king
royal palaces, or
but some few pieces, not designed
;
as such, are allowed to be sold.
Connected with the establishment of the Gobelins, the dyeing of wool, under the
an
infinite
number
of
direction
shades,
mostly
of able
unknown dyed
is
one for
chemists, in
where
trade,
ex-
cept for the
purposes
Wool
exclusively used, as the colours are more permanent.
is
There art
are
is
now
also
taught,
upon chemistry
of needlework, are
a drawing-school,
and an annual
in
for the tapestry.
which the principles of the
course
of lectures
is
delivered
as applicable to dyeing.
Evelyn gives the following description of some Gobelin tapestry, then new England which he saw in the apartments of the Duchess of Portsmouth “ Here I saw the new fabriq of French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and incomparable imitation of the best paintings, beyond anything I had ever beheld. Some pieces had Versailles, St. German’s, and other palaces of the French king, with huntings, figures, and landslips, exotiq fowls, and all to the life rarely don.” Memoirs p. 563. *
in
,
”
”
TAPESTRY.
24
The Gobelin
formerly made in lengths or pieces,
tapestry was
when one
the width of which varied from four to eight feet; and
of larger dimensions was required, several of these were
sewn
or
finedrawn together with such care that no seams were discernible.
At
day, however, they
present
the
manufactured of much
are
seldom require to be joined even in
greater widths, so that they
the largest pieces.
Two
known
tapestry,
the
in
,
methods were formerly practised in the manufacture of as those of the “ basse lisse
or
first,
low warp, which
was placed horizontally, similar
is
to
common weaving,
the
wrong
side, so that
;
loom
the
relinquished,
intended to be wrought being beneath the warp
was very remarkable, from the
“ haute lisse
and the
now
the painting
and the process
;
worked on
fact of the tapestry being
the artist could not see the face of the design
he was weaving, until the whole piece was finished and taken out of the frame.
In the “ haute lisse” or high warp, which
used, the frame
is
works, as duces,
it
;
were blindfold, seeing nothing of the
and being obliged
whenever he wishes
to
examine the piece he
to
Gobelins,
may
or
mode
visited this
loom
is
inner
side
unnecessary
The
executing.
at present practised at the
most interesting establishment.
being gradually of to
the
upright
describe)
threads, or
separating these threads
roller,
wound round pieces,
are
more or
pieces, at the top
rollers are fixed horizontally
fastened the longitudinal
posed of twisted wool, wound on the upper executed,
is
formed of two upright
and bottom of which, two large these rollers are
is
he pro-
perhaps convey some idea of the manufacture to
who have not
The frame
effect
still
go to the other side of the loom
following brief description of the
those
is
he also
fixed perpendicularly before the artist
several
placed less
at
the
to
:
warp, com-
the work, as lower.
On
contrivances different
it
the (here
points,
for
from one another, in order
a
TAPESTRY.
25
admit the cross threads or warp, which are to form the picture.
to
“
to
whose
colour’d threads
fair
Hang figur’d weights, whose various numbers guide The artist’s hand he, unseen flowers, and trees, :
And
As
vales,
and azure
a sort of guide for the
in their
introduce the
artist to
warp
his
him
in
which
front,
are
painting behind
the
see
to
For working the tapestry
instruments
three
seven or
wood, about
round which the wool as the weaver’s
is
reed
inches long, and an inch thick decreases to the divided,
wool when
the
The
well.
towards
The
there
brings
also of wood, eight or nine
is
whence
at
gradually
it
in shape
longer
it
of fineness of
similar to a
is
used to
common
press
close
;
any
line or
colour that
does not
set
himself behind the frame, with his back
his
each
across
degree
or less
is
he
cartoon or picture
proper colour he places
he
is
artist places
the
needle
and
larger
and looks
turns
and two-
length,
extremity of the teeth, which are more or less
much
but
—
formed
with a small handle,
at the back,
according to the greater
the intended work. needle,
first is
wound, and serving the same purpose
The
shuttle.
in
point
a
in
to
required,
are
The
eight inches
thirds of an inch thick, ending
open
sufficiently
it.
broach, a reed or comb, and an iron needle.
of hard
threads
cross
proper places, he traces an outline of his subject on the
threads of enable
unerring works.”
hills,
it
among
about
to
taking
a
copy
he
first
;
broach
of
the
the threads of the warp> which
with
other
is
then
design,
the coats or threads fastened to the
his
fingers,
this
staff
by means
of
he repeats every
;
time
it
is
necessary to change his colour.
wool, he beats
several
with his reed
it
rows, he
;
them with
placed
th8
and when he has thus wrought
passes to the other side
to properly adjust
Having
to see their
effect,
and
his needle, should there be occasion.
;
TAPESTRY.
26
As
tapestry, however, of this
ladies, it
—
for although in this
work panels
to
“ the
for rooms,
work of
would that matron
monument,
“ that
be,
is
the fashion
we do not how memo-
it
whole
out the
it
says, “
when he
who should have
she wrought
and died in a good old
—
for beds, yet
age of renaissance
and hangings
entirely agree with the “ Spectator,”
rable
the
not
description, is
would be tedious for ns to enter more upon the subject
inscribed on he)
Bible in tapestry
having covered three hundre<
age, after
yards of wall in the mansion house.’ ”*
The Cartoons
*
England, and the express
purpose
twenty-five of
They were at
the
envy of of
these
all
of
sacred
polite
in
the
were
sent
in
remain.
Leo X.
the chambers of the
Vatican.
Julius
Flanders to be
The
now
only
and
auspices of pope
to
were painted for the There were originally
nations,”
tapestry.
designs, but seven
historical
was engaged
Raffaelle
them
other
wrought
being
executed under
time that
The whole
of Raffaelle, which have been justly called “ the glory of
II.
worked
in
tapestry,
to
were not sent to Rome until after the death of this great master, and the cartoons, which were greatly damaged by being cut into strips by the weavers, lay neglected in the storerooms of the manufactory where, during the revolution which soon after happened in the low countries, most of them were destroyed. The seven which now adorn the gallery at Hampton Court were purchased by R.ubens for Charles I. These cartoons fortunately escaped being sold in the royal collection by the disproportionate appraisement of them at £300, while the nine representing the triumph of Julius Caesar, by Andrea Mantegna, were valued U £1000. For an account of the more celebrated ancient tapestries on the continent, ive refer our readers to M. Achille Jubinal’s splendid work, Les Anciennes Tapisseries Historiees. In England, the tapestry preserved in St. Mary’s Hall, at Coventry, although much mutilated, is well worthy of careful examination. adorn the pontifical apartments.
tapestries
;
The
Hampton Court, Wolsey by the embe found in Mr. Jesse’a
finest ancient tapestries in existence arc doubtless those at
which are supposed peror Charles V an ;
entertaining
little
to
have been presented
to
Cardinal
interesting description of these will
work,
A
Summer's Day at Hampton Court
.
CHAPTER
III
iHaUrials in (General.
M From
fertile
France and pleasant Italy ,
,
From Poland Sweden Denmarke Germany ,
And some
,
,
,
of these rare Patternes haue beene
Beyond the bounds of
fet
Mahomet: From spacious China and those Kingdomes East, And from great Mexico the Indies West. Thus are these workes farrefetcht and deareVy bought faithlesse
,
,
And
,
consequently good for Ladies thought .”
John Taylor.
HE
products of the animal, the vegetable, and
the mineral kingdom, are called into requisition for
the
service of the
and the west are alike for
the
and
silver, are
serve her different
escaped her
termed,)
is
Nor have
quill
an imitation.
witness
work, or
The
the
—the
east
she
employs.
the shells of the
ocean
splendid
works in nacre of
ecaille (as it
has been improperly
the
,
feathers of birds, the scales of fishes,
the wing cases of insects, and tress,
which
articles
:
under contribution
formed and twisted into various threads to
purposes.
notice, as
which the stamped
laid
and hemp, and even the precious metals
Sint, wool, cotton, flax,
—gold
various
needlewoman
insects
skins of serpents, furs
themselves
mosses,
the ;
barks of
straw, grass, seaweeds
;
MATERIALS IN GENERAL.
28
and precious
and even the hair of the
stones,
embroideress
fair
each in their turn, furnished her materials wherewith
herself, have,
to exercise her ingenuity.*
The needlework more
of the present day
and
to the skill
beauty
bizarre
that
the true
distort
her
and most costly.
:
intention
— and
simple
The
that
of
the
art
may
materials,
but the
branches, yet
its
is
by
skill
a
than to any
,
employed
to
copy
surpass
Linwood
and, ;
and
outre
remember
us
let
not
nature,
with
executed
attraction
its
adaptation of
the
needlework
that
materials used
of every one, is
some of
in
objects
the artist
materials
the
it
indebted for
by
talent displayed
may borrow from however much we may admire
false
is
to
rudest
the
the
most
are within the
reach
with
that
shown in the employment of them
of the artist alone.
have been given for the pursuit of needlework
than she could possibly have possessed. their beauty
“ paintings”
when Miss Linwood executed her
Since the time greater facilities
and
brilliancy,
both in
The
silks
variety of colours,
and wools, owing to
our improved knowledge of dyeing, the introduction of colouredpaper
patterns, all
above every
contribute
other,
towards
consecrated
to
the
female
of an
perfection
Our
talent.
art,
object
in the present treatise, however, is not to enter into a description
of the
different
articles
which have been used
for the purposes of needlework, nor the
—those of the — and ample
most appropriate kind
details
of these, their
occasions on which they
may
be
at various
times
method of employing them will suffice for
qualities
and
our purpose,
uses,
and the
most advantageously rendered
* Three German ladies, in Hanover, named Wylich, mode of embroidering wilh human hair.
in
a 782,
invented
a
TAPESTRY.
29
be found in the following chapters, under their
subservient^ will
respective heads.
In describing the principal materials employed in needlework at the
present
requisites,
day,
—the
we must not overlook
instruments wherewith we
the are
equally
use
to
essential
them:
—an
account of which will be found under the general head of “ imple-
ments” where, we have endeavoured,
—
to
guide the inexperienced,
in
—
as far as lay in our power,
selecting
with judgment those
best adapted for facilitating their labours.
With
the exception
of canvas,
to describe the materials
executed.
The mere mention
will be sufficient.
it
will
upon which the
—whether
of these
not be necessary for us different
works are
in their
respective places
cloth, silk, or
“ satin smooth,
Or
velvet soft, or plush with
shaggy
7’
pile.
to be
CHAPTER
IV,
too0i.
“
Still shall o’er all prevail
the shepherd’s stores
For numerous uses known; none yield such warmth, Such beauteous hues receive, so long endure • So pliant to the loom, so various, none.”
Dyer. ,{
In the same fleece diversity of wool
Grows
Of
intermingled, and excites the care
curious
skill to sort
the sev’ral kinds.” Ibid.
OOL, from in
of
its
em ployment
becomes the most important
needlework,
The
frequency
the
with which
readiness
it
takes
of
and perma-
nently retains the most splendid colours that the art of the it
superior to every other
:
fully into a description of
Wool of some
—which natural
is
dyer it
its
is
—has
not
capable of imparting, renders therefore, that
we
enter
various qualities and uses.
the soft filamentous
animals,
is
is essential,
substance which
cover« the skins
more particularly those of the sheep: the term
very well
defined,
been applied alike
to
and the
is
soft
rather arbitrary than hair
of the
beaver
WOOL.
Thibet and of Cachemir, and to that of the llama
the goats of
and
31
and even
ostrich,
“
The
to fine vegetable fibres, such as cotton:
white with
trees of Ethiopia,
wool.”*
soft
Sheep’s wool appears to be the product of cultivation
mouflon
wild
(
dries )
ovis
—
to
which
genus
upon the mountains of
a wild state
Greece, and Asia Minor,
mixed with placed in
soft
a
down
—the
wool the
to
close
coarse
a
on the of
varieties still
found iu Barbary,
hairy substance,
When
skin.
the
animal
is
temperate climate, under the fostering care of man,
and protected from the inclemencies of the gradually
fibres
is
Corsica,
Sardinia, is
the
all
which
the domestic sheep have been traced, and
:
while the
disappear,
The domestic
becomes singularly developed.
"weather,
the coarse
wool round their roots
soft
culture of the sheep,
has long occupied the attention of
for the sake of its wool,
civil-
ized nations, and has produced the highly-valued merinof species,
from which our best wool wool of good
Sheep’s
is
now
quality
procured. is
never found except in those
countries that have been the seats of the
arts,
and where a consider-
able degree of luxury and refinement exist, or have once prevailed.
The
history of
useful
arts
cultivation
its
of ancient
date,
and preparation, is
involved
in
most of the
like
uncertainty.
The
Greeks attribute the invention of spinning and weaving wool
to
Minerva
is
it
:
Georg,
* Virgil,
cotton,
1.
iii.
denominates t
however, supposed to be of Asiatic origin, and
is,
c.
Herodotus uses the term “
120.
1.
ii.
tree
Pollux, also, in his Onomasticon
Julius
47.
wool ” to denote ,
1 . vii.
c.
17 so
it.
The term
merino
,
in the
Latin merinus or majorinus.
Spanish
At
language,
the period
when
is
derived from the corrupt
the transhumantes, or travel-
ling flocks in Spain, were established, they became the object of police, anil were placed under the exclusive jurisdiction of mayors, with public walks and large districts allotted for their sustenance, and were termed merinos ovejas, or the sheep under the care of the merino or mayor.
WOOL
32
by Moses, * which proves 1
referred to
hundred years before the
fifteen
of the wheel and spindle
is
and
for
to
have existed
many
centuries after,
they were
infancy of the
In the
ages.
at least
The discovery
era.
also veiled in obscurity, but
obviously used in the most remote art of weaving,
it
Christian
the
working
of
was merely a domestic occupation, principally of women:
cloth
was gathered from the sheep, washed, opened, spun, and
the fleece
wove under the same roof which witnessed the preparation and grinding of corn.f
In proportion as
became
convenient,
society
an
advanced, and
improved
a
knowledge
division
of labour
was acquired,
only of spinning and weaving, but in that of breeding and
not
select-
ing those animals, whether sheep or goats, which gave the finest
xxxv. 25, 26.
* Exodus,
The
Egyptians, from a most remote era,
celebrated for their manufactures of linen
and other cloths
were and the produce of
;
to, and eagerly purchased by, foreign nations. The fine and embroidered work, the yarn and woollen stuffs of the upper and lower country, are frequently mentioned, and were highly esteemed. Solomon purchased many of these commodities, as well as chariots and horses, from Egypt and Chemmis, the city of Pan, according to Strabo (lib. xvii.) retained the credit it had acquired in making woollen stuffs, nearly till the period of In Egypt, woollen garments were chiefly used by the the Roman conquest. lower orders sometimes also by the rich, and even by the priests, who were permitted to wear an upper robe in the form of a cloak of this material, but under-garments of wool were strictly forbidden them, upon a principle of and as they took so much pains to cleanse and shave the body, they cleanliness
their
looms was exported
linen,
:
;
;
considered
dotus
garment
it
;
inconsistent to adopt clothes
made of
the hair of animals.
Hero-
81) says, that no one was allowed to be buried in a woollen nor could any priest enter a temple without previously taking off
ii.
(1.
c.
Vide Wilkinsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ancient Egyptians women were very different from those Among pastoral tribes, they drew water, of a later and more civilized period. As with the Arabs kept the sheep, and superintended the herds as well as flocks. this part of his dress.
t In the primitive
.
ages, the duties of
of the present day, they prepared both the furniture .and the woollen
stud's,
of
which the tents themselves were made and, like the Greek women, they were generally employed in weaving, spinning, and other sedentary occupations. ;
;
WOOL.
The produce
fleeces.
entirely
the
result
countries where
it
is
We may
commerce.
woollen manufacture,
wool from sheep
of white
of
33
cultivation,
and
is
said
unknown
is
imagine
when
that
cloth
the
in
state
of the
was merely a substitute
for the
skins of beasts as an article of clothing,
duced, coloured garments
;
earliest
little
was paid
attention
but as luxuries were intro-
were required, and the wool
could no
longer be indifferently taken from sheep of every kind, or
The
black.
more particular attention
was
those
not employed as an object of manufacture or
to the colour or fineness of the wool
white, brown,
be
to
in
to
grower,
therefore,
the whiteness
essential to render the cloth
whether
began
of his
to
fleece,
pay
which
susceptible of the brilliant dyes,
which, even in a very remote period, were certainly given to '
“ In oldest times,
when
it.
kings and hardy chiefs
In bleating sheepfolds met, for purest wool
were most renown’d, and Judaea’s land, Hermon, and Seir, and Hebron’s brooky sides, Twice with the murex, crimson hue, they ting’d The shining fleeces hence their^ gorgeous wealth And hence arose the walls of ancient Tyre.”
Phoenicia’s hilly tracts
And
fertile Syria’s
—
German
wool,
unquestionably the finest description of sheep’s
wool which we possess,
is
the produce of the fleece of the merino
breed in their highest state of cultivation,
Saxony and the neighbouring German needle
work
it
is
manufactured
at
from
states.
flocks
of
As prepared
for
the
Gotha,* from whence
warded to Berlin and other parts of
Germany
it is for-
to be dyed.
* Gotha, the capital of the duchy of Saxe-Gotha, and alternately with Coburg the residence of the duke of Saxe-Coburg, father of Prince Albert. The duke has a fine palace here called Friedenstine, containing a picture gallery, library, and a Chinese and Japanese museum, besides one of the finest collections of coins and medals in Europe. The Almanack de Gotha is ,
printed here.
4
WOOL.
34
To
introduced
first
Germany
elector, is
fine
been
wool has since
from the Spanish
wholly
almos*
due the merit of
Spanish breed of merino sheep into
the
and the valuable trade in
transferred
The
when
the late king of Saxony,
having
to the
German
soil.
flocks were brought into his dominions in the year 1765,
and
again in 1778, and were chosen for the elector from the finest of those
in
they were
Spain;
“ majorinus,”
under the care of a Spanish
placed
mayor, at Stolpen, seven leagues from Dresden,
or
From
on the frontiers of Bohemia.
dom
thrown began
open
to
when
and
of Saxony,
by
embark
of
events
the
1815,
in a regular trade with
and they soon discovered the
throughout
continental
the
real
1814 these
this period until
flocks were gradually spreading themselves
the
trade
the
was
king-
entirely
Saxon wool dealers
England in
value of this
their fleeces,
new branch
of
German commerce.* The improvement both of wool, from the
The harshness
able.
in fineness and softness
German
flocks,
in
chalky
the
districts,
a richer
soil it
pastjire.
wool
is
becomes
Spain renders the
It
(as it is
is
quality consider-
soft
and
fleece of the
is
owing
to certain
pecu-
known, that in sheep fed upon
is
apt to get
the milder climate of Saxony.
yolk
the
of the wool does not depend solely upon the
breed of the animal, or the climate, but liarities
in
over those of Spain,
but in those fed upon
coarse ;
The
silky.
scorching sun of
merino breed harsher than
The
it
is
in
great quantity of grease, or
technically termed), which
is
much more abundant
* For an interesting account of the finer description of sheep and wool, “ Mittheilungen des interessantesten und neuesten aus dem Gebiet der
vide
—
hohern Schaff und Woolkunde,” Yon Bernhard Petri, Wien, 1829; also, “His toire de Introduction des Moutons a laine fine d’Espagne dans les divers 6tats
de rEurope,” par
M.
C.
P
Lasteyrie, Paris, 1802.
;
WOOL. in the wool of the merino
of the great causes of
There are four same animal within
to
distinct
;
inches
of sheep,
of wool
qualities
of the
and
the
the
breast
sorter
to
shearing.
the
to
separate,
The
neck
and
hinder
feet.
These
which
he
best
wool
that
which
proper seasons ;
Wools again
is inferior.
the fleece of the
one
of the
third
the second covers the flanks and the shoulders
:
the
third,
in
including
tail ;
breadth of the back
doubtless, one
also,
is
growing along the spine from the neck,
the finest
six
breed
superiority.*
its
parts
is
it
generally
is
differ
does
the
coarsest
of the
wool
immediately
after
office
shorn from the sheep at the
that
is
and
;
the
from the skin
taken
after death
from each other not only accord-
ing to their coarseness and fineness, but also in the length of their filaments.
Long, or combing wool, varies in length from three to
eight inches
opens the flax
;
it
is
;
fibres,
treated on a
and
arranges
such wool when woven
ing wool, inches
varies
in
if longer, ;
as
the is
is
comb with long
unfit for felting.
length
the case
broken down by carding, to
of
staple
its
like
it
to the
locks
of
Short, or cloth-
from three
with the best Saxon
adapt
which
steel teeth,
them horizontally
to four
wool,
it
is
subsequent operation
of felting, where the fibres are convoluted or matted together. â&#x20AC;˘
It is
only within the last few years (in fact since the introduc-
tion of coloured paper patterns) that for the purposes of needlework:
resources, with
worsteds,
the
exception of
and crewels.
German wool has been used
previously to that time our only silk,
The beauty
were English lambswools, of
German
wools and the
breed of sheep has been carried to New South Wales and Diemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Land, from whence, of late years, great quantities of wool nave been exported. Australia promises, at no distant period, to be one of the principal wool growing countries in the world, and to outrival Saxony in the fineness and superiority of its fleeces. *
Van
The merino
— WOOL.
36 perfection
brought,
which
to
fC
the
dyeing them has
of
science ,”
been
an era in the annals of our art; and has, together
is
with the invention of Berlin patterns, contributed in rendering
it
amusement than when Helen
a more enticing and facile
11
Guided by
love,
O’er the stretch’d sampler’s canvas plain,
In broidery’s various colours strove
To
raise his
form to
again.”
life
by
All kinds of wool are more or less characterised
when compared
of harshness ness,
softness,
and
flexibility
decidedly superior needle,
for
which
fine-
renders
work
tapestry
of
a degree
Zephyr Merino .” the
of the fibre of
kinds
all
“
the
to
with
it
the
and embroidery in wool, especially where great numbers
We
of colours are required.
now proceed more
shall
particularly
to notice
GERMAN WOOL. German
wool,
Germany,
which
as
it
Zephyr merino
commonly known working
or,
,
by
is
termed
is
prepared
as “ Berlin ” or “
skeined, or notted, in
wool
the
of various
German
staplers
That
sizes.
\yool,”
is
of
adapted for
and from the manner in
kinds of Berlin patterns;
all
it is
'
small quantities,
rendered
is
it
the most convenient, and, comparatively speaking the least expensive
description
sufficient,
brilliancy
wool
of
for
w ere they not more r
fully
and variety of shades
above-mentioned superior
worked on the the coarsest:
worked in a
its
finest
qualities.
canvas,
purpose
this
and
—recommendations
enhanced by the
in
which
it
This wool
thread on a canvas
unequalled
is
dyed,
may
be
and
split
its
and
doubled and trebled on
also
beauty, however, can be
single
;
best
suited
appreciated to
its
size,
when where
WOOL. should form an even and
it
covering
thoroughly
ranked
tightly
so
uniform surface of pearly threads
the
as
37
be
to
of
the
deprived
of
stitches,
canvas,
beautiful
its
not
yet
elastic
appearance.
Like every other material, German wool requires to be well understood as to
duce that
needlewoman
and
qualities
its
degree ‘of
When
accomplish.
to
with a canvas over the
to
pro-
of
the
w is)h
the
is
it
worked
an
or
cloth,
in order
capabilities,
which
excellence
r
on
either
cloth,
embroidery,
should be
it
used with a needle sufficiently large to form a passage through
may
which the wool
working
for
imitation
of
netting.
When but
retain
and from
may have wound, of
the
smell
of
of
its
dye
the
round
vegetable
been used in
by being
crochet,
German
and
texture,
its
or
applicable
work in
its
wool
and
should
should be
soft
make, and
free
it ;
in
mineral
which^
substances
This wool should not be
dyeing.
compressed,
German wool
quantity of
raw
in a
state,
part
undergoes
wool
is
the
of
best
is
knitting,
fine
quality,
for
also,
the
It
every description of
it
may
be
deprived
partially
elasticity.
its
A
in
as,
and
;
of
particles
all
figures,
paintings
little
curly
pass without “ dragging.”
flowers,
equal
where
it is
brought
is
these
processes
in
that
imported
in
to
;
greater
;
manufactured but
Britain
the
Some
Scotland.
a
Germany
needlework, from
purposes of
Great
into
combed, spun, and dyed
the
of
this
for
state,
dye
is
generally very imperfect and perishable, except the blacks, which are certainly
work. highest
cleaner
best
German
The
prices,
are
dyed
England ready skeined
German
— an
much
wool,
for
important desideratum in needle-
wools, and those
in use.
manufactured in
Germany,
which command the
and
imported
into
Great quantities, however, of this
country,
and
also
of
very
f
;
38
WOOL.
inferior
wool imported
requires
tlie
Much more might these wools
but
;
colours
Germany,
from
are
and
it
and dyeing
of
daily sold ;
eye of an experienced person to detect them.*
it
be said as to the
qualities
remains
“ sorter ,”
working,
for
knowledge and appropriation
with
them
give
to
upon
care bestowed
of them, each
the
their
their
or
by
harshness, yet,
all
and, above
want of
seem but
as one
and, like
:
various shades
carefully avoiding ;
contrast, giving a proper spirit to the whole
avoiding that gaudiness of colouring, and
all,
taste, so
of the
and the proper
the colours on the painter’s palette, in mixing the so delicately, that they shall
by
lustre,
final
choice,
several purposes
to their
selector
glaring
generally exhibited in the coloured-paper patterns
of Berlin, and which are but too frequently complained of in the
productions of the needle.
ENGLISH WOOL. “ If any wool peculiar to our Is giv’n
The
by nature,
soft,
’tis
isle
the comber’s lock,
snow-white, and the long grown flake.”
Dyer.
*
The
importations of
German wool
into this
country were quite
trifling
during the war, amounting in 1812, to only twenty-eight pounds but since the peace, they have increased beyond all precedent. In 1814, they amounted to ;
were above five amount of nearly twenty-nine millions of pounds this, however, was a year of overtrading, and they declined, in 1826, to about ten and a half millions of pounds. They have nearly three and a half millions of pounds
millions of
pounds
;
;
in
1820, they
and, in 1825, they reached the enormous ;
since,
however, recovered
from
to nearly twenty-five
statistical
facts,
tion of
in
for the
depression
;
and, in
1833,
the
imports
purpose of needlework, nevertheless show the high estimation
which the German wool
is
held by our manufacturers.
German wool is prohibited in France: it is not long since, that the police, Paris, made seizures of considerable quantities in several of the warehouse's*
t
at
wool
this
and a half millions of pounds. These important although they have no reference to the subject of the consump-
amounted
D
WOOL.
30
much
English lambswool, or embroidery wool, though
than the preceding, yet
dye of
retains
lambswool
scarlet
and gold colours
as are also several of the shades of blue, green,
browns, clarets, and some neutral for tent, or cross stitch,
it
carpets, large
may
be sometimes used in ;
such
chairs, sofas,
for instance,
as,
ottomans,
&c. the
blues,
also
as
the
be superiorly worked in English wool, whilst the
pinks,
greys,
whites,
may
It
and some of the
colours, scarlets, olives,
grounding,
coarse canvas, either
decidedly preferable, both in working,
is
work with German wool
the same piece of
gold
On
tints.
and in appearance when finished.
in needlework for
The
German,
equal to that of the
quite
is
harsher
superior qualifications.
its
&c.
lilacs,
may
German
be introduced in
wool.
For grounding
,
German,
wool
English
more
as being
impoverished by brushing like the is
cleaner
the
in
generally
is
durable, and
dye
of
another recommendation,
—that
latter.
darker
the
preferable
less apt to
If
to
nor
soil ;
the is
it
good, English wool
colours
;
and
has, also,
of being more economical.
WORSTED. tl
The
grain of brightest tincture none so well
Imbibes
;
the wealthy Gobelins must to this
Eear witness, and the
Worsted factured
is
a
still
costliest
of their loom.”
fine
yer.
harsher description of English
from the coarser parts of the
taking a very
—
dye,
may
and
working carpets and rugs.
fleece,
be
but
it
wool, is
manu
capable of
advantageously used for
be good, and well dyed,
it
has
a more glossy appearance than the other descriptions of wool.
It
is
much cheaper than
is
the
best
and
only
If
either
proper
it
German
or
material
English lambswool, and for
making
the
raised
WOOL.
40 borders
of
various
the
and rouleau, &c.
filaments, greatly
its
and
urn-rugs,
borders in moss
kinds
of
and
patterns
from the length of
being,
it ;
improved by combing, assuming that downy
appearance which distinguishes a well-finished rug border. Worsteds,* though so
were formerly
day,
little
the
of
netting u
The
the
in
crewels
a
,
description
of
worsted,
twisted
tightly
The poet Cowper has immortalized
silks.
where he says
Sofa,”
both for
part of the last century, under the form
latter
fine
employed
materials
For these purposes, they were much
tapestry and embroidery. in vogue
used in needlework at the present
principal
their
like
use,
in
:
“ here and there a tuft of crimson yarn,
Or
The whole
scarlet crewel .”
of the beautiful works executed
by the
celebrated
Miss Linwood, are in worsted, the dyeing of which was an object of
her
especial
worsted.
It
is
similar purposes.
short
lengths,
Yarn
care.
is
a
coarser description
still
used for making nets for fruit
and
It
may
knit
be
with
prettily
coarse
trees,
applied,
cotton,
or
when fine
of
and other cut
into
twine,
for
carriage-rugs, mats, &c.
FLEECY. Lcicestrian fleeces,
Combs through
what the sinewy arm
the spiky steel in lengthen’d flakes.
7’
Dyer.
*
Worsted, in Norfolk, was formerly a place of much it is is now greatly on the decline
siderable trade, but
the invention, or
first
;
second year of the reign of Edward stuffs
and of con fol
yarn or thread, which This manufacture is mentioned the
twisting, of that sort of woollen
hence obtained the na*ne of worsted. worsted
celebrity,
chiefly remarkable
m
III.,
were required by parliament
than they had formerly done.
when to
the weavers
work them
in
and workers of a better manner
WOOL. Fleecy
41
another description of wool, principally grown and
is
manufactured in Leicestershire, for which this county has long been celebrated. “ Rich Leicestria’s marly plains, for length
Of
whitest locks and magnitude of fleece
Peculiar.”
made of two
It is
vary in
to a quarter of
according to the number of are two, three, four, six,
common
and common
qualities, superfine
from an eighth
size
up
they contain
threads
thus,
there
;
Those in
to twelve threads, fleecy.
They
use are from three to six threads.
good and useful
they both
;
an inch in diameter
are
all
equally
for crochet, knitting, netting, &c. according to the
purposes for which the work
designed.
is
HAMBURGH WOOL. Hamburgh wool
German
so called, or
worsted,
of wool, usually containing four threads, but contain
to
glossy, is,
and
twelve for
however,
threads
it
very
is
to be
procured in
much imported
a commo-n kind
is
made
is
all
as thick as
in
brilliant
working on coarse canvas
difficult
has not been
:
is
colour,
extremely shades
and It
and, hitherto, ;
An
into this country.
good.
imitation of
wool has been made, and much sold in England, under the
this
name
of
Hamburgh
merits of the real
worsted, but
Hamburgh
it
not possess any of ths
does
wool, except its size.
GERMAN FLEECY. German, or merino land.
in
It possesses
appearance,
and
but
fleecy, is
a decided
little
known
used or
superiority over the
pleasantness
for
use
:
the
in
Eng-
English, both
colours
like
the
42
WOOL.
German
exceedingly
wool, are
sizes of eight or ten threads ;
cannot
tricot,
mind, that
*
The
be
it is
of
art
and barbarous teemed among
a
brilliant.
It
is
made
usually
surpassed.
borne
however, be
must,
It
more costly material than the English
dyeing
was
even
tribes
practised
possessed
most
the
in
remote
which have
colours
From
nations.
civilised
in
and, for the purposes of crochet or
Savage
ages.
been
the writings of Moses,
in
fleecy.*
highly is
it
es-
obvious
great progress. He mentions (Exodus xxv. The Egyptians, and rams’ skins dyed red. according to Pliny (lib. xxv. c. 2,) had discovered a mode of dyeing somewhat resembling that now employed for tinting printed cottons the stuffs, after having been impregnated with mordants, were immersed in vats, where that
had, in his time,
it
4-5) blue, purple,
and
made
scarlet,
—
they received the different colours.
At
very
a
early
period,
the
art
was
cloths purple
among
first
the ancients,
we can
of which
had
dyeing
of
to
brought
to
a
of dyeing woollen
—
This colour, the most celebrated have been brought to a degree of excellence,
discovered at Tyre.
—appears
been
The method
considerable degree of perfection in Phoenicia.
form hut a very faint idea.
It
is
related, that a shepherd’s
by hunger, having broken a shell on the sea shore, his mouth became stained, with a colour, which excited the admiration of all who saw it, and that the same colour was afterwards applied to the dyeing According to some of the ancient writers, this of wool with great success. dog,
instigated
discovery
placed
is
in
the
hundred years before Christ. in
about 1439
Crete
of dyeing
Hercules,
who
presented his
so
jealous of the
was
the use of
it
to
all
Others
Phoenix, second fix
years before the
invention
latter
of
reign
purple,
his
however,
it
Christian era. generally
is
discovery to
reserving
of Tyre,
it
to
the
of Phoenicia
new for
who
The honour
awarded
the king
beauties of this
subjects,
king
in that of Minos,
colour,
that
the garments
;
he
five
reigned
of the
Tyrian and the forbade
of royalty
Some authors relate the story differently Hercules’ dog having mouth with a sh^ll, which he had broken on the sea shore, Tysas, a nymph of whom Hercules was enamoured, was so charmed with
alone.
:
stained
his
would see her mver no more dyed of the same. Plercules, in order to gratify his mistress, collected a great number of the shells, and succeeded in staining a robe of the colour the nymph had demanded. The Tyrian purple was communicated by means of several species of Pliny gives us an account (lib. vi. c. 36.) of two kinds of univalve shell-fish. shell-fish from which the purple was obtained. The first species was called the beamty of the colour, that she declared she
until
he had brought her garments
buccinum
,
the other purpura.
A
single
drop of the liquid dye was obtained
.
WOOL.
43
fish, by opening a vessel situated in its throat. This liquid, when was mixed with a sufficient quantity of salt to prevent putrefaction. It was then diluted with five or six times as much water, and kept moderately hot in leaden or tin vessels for the space of ten days, during which time it was frequently skimmed, in order to separate all impurities. In dyeing, the wool was washed, immersed and kept in the liquid for five hours. It was then taken out, carded, and again immersed for a sufficient
from each
extracted,
length of time for
all
the colouring matter
to
be extracted from the liquid.
For the production of particular shades of colour, various salts were added. The colour of the Tyrian purple itself appears to have been similar to that This author also says, that the Tyrians first dyed their wool in of blood. We the liquor of the purpura, and afterwards in that of the buccinum. find
allusions
Horace
to
this
“Muricibus Tyriis
And
passages
in several
practice
of the
sacred
writings.
also says: iteratae vellera lame.’*
again: "
Te
Mu rice Vestiunt
The
purple mentioned in Exodus
Ezekiel, in his prophecy against
bis
Afro
tinctae lanae.’'
was probably says
T}n*e,
:
“
that dyed
Fine
by the Tyrians.
linen with
broidered
work from Egypt, was that which thou spreadest forth to be thy sail and purple from the isles of Elishah was that which covered thee.”
;
blue It
is
generally supposed, that by Elishah, Elis, on the western coast of the Greek
Peloponnesus, was referred to the
time
of
Ezekiel,
obtained
:
hence their
it
would appear that the Tyrians, in
supply
of shell-fish
for
dyeing
purple
This celebrated colour was restricted by the ancients to the sacred person and palace of the empqpr and the penalties of treason were denounced against the ambitious subject who dared to usurp from
the
coast
of Greece.
;
the prerogative of the throne.
-
CHAPTER V Silk.
“She That
To
work
sets to
worms, weave the smooth-haired
millions of spinning
in their green shops
silk,
deck her sons.”
Milton. “ Let Asia’s woods
Untended,
And
On
let
yield the vegetable fleece,
the
higher
little
life
insect-artist form,
intent, its silken
tomb.”
Thomson.
ILK-WORMS,
—the
most precious of
insects,
whose produce holds so important a place amongst the luxuries of serviceable
to
modern
man by
life,
were
the
Chinese, about two
first
rendered
thousand seven hundred years before the Christian era.
^
sent
the Empresses
Their most ancient authorities repre-
of China,
as
surrounded by
their
women,
engaged in the occupation of hatching and rearing silk-worms,
and in weaving ling-shee,
having
the
first
tissues
consort
from their produce. of
observed the
Hoang-tee, silk
is
To
ascribed
the empress See*
the
honour
of
produced by the worms, of unravel
—
f
SILR.
cocoons,
their
ling
45
and working the
web of
fine filament into a
cloth.*
From
China, the art of rearing silk-worms
The production
and Persia.
of silk was
passed into
unknown
India
Europe,
in
however, until the middle of the sixth century, when two monks,
who had long
the eggs of the
nople ;
tree ;
insect, concealed in
where, under heat:
artificial
China, succeeded
resided in
the
their
of
eggs were hatched by
by
fed
leaves of the mulberry
they lived and laboured, and, by the use of proper means,
the race
was propagated and multiplied.
This knowledge, under
emperor Justinian, became productive
the
carrying some
hollow cane, to Constanti-
a
directions, the
worms were
in
tant branch of industry to the
were
in
established
European
Athens, Thebes, and
twelfth century, Greece appears to
Europe in which the
About
1130,
art
Roger
II,
was
as slaves
new and imporManufactories
Corinth, but, until
practised.
king of
Sicily,
established a silk
Calabria,
in his
expedition to the
manu-
managed by work-
from Athens and Corinth, of which
had made a conquest
the
have been the only country in
factory at Palermo, and another in
men taken
of a
nations.
he
cities
By
Holy Land.
degrees the rest of Italy and Spain learned from the Sicilians and
*
For an account of the invention, manufacture, and general use of
Du
China, vide
VEmpier de t
was
la,
A species
Halde’s Description Geographique
Chine
Historique
,
et
silk
in
Physique
de
.
common
of silk-worm,
cultivated in the
little
in the forests both of Asia
and Europe,
island of Ceos, near the coast of Attica.
gauze was procured from their webs of
,
;
and
this
Cean manufacture,
A thin
the invention
woman, for female use, was long admired both in the east and at Rome. silks, which had been closely woven in China, were sometimes unravelled the Phoenician women, and the precious materials were multiplied by a looser
h.
The nv
texture, anti
—
and the intermixture of linen threads. On the texture, colours, names, silk, half silk, and linep. garments of the ancients, see the
use of the
researches of the learned Salmasius.
t
—
— 46
SILK.
Calabrians of
the
The
France until mulberry
management of
the
silk.
was
It
cessfully
to
VIII, when the white
and a few silk-worms, were introduced into Dau
tree,
phiny by some noblemen, on Naples.
not react
did
insects
of Charles
the reign
after
and the working
silk-worm,
the
of rearing these
art
not,
return from the conquest of
their
however, until
produce the
silk
1654,
that they began sue
when Traucat,
itself,
common
a
of Nismes, laid the foundation of a nursery of white
gardener
mulberry
trees,
them
and with such success as to enable
propagated within a few years over
to
be
southern provinces
the
all
of France.* It is
among
uncertain at what period the use the
Romans; but
Pompey and that
it
Julius
it
sold
So for
however, was
great,
is
said
to
are informed
by
of the reign of Tiberius, that no
wearing a silken garment.!
The
and was the
man
should disgrace himself by
profligate Heliogabalus,
first
of the
Roman
11
The enormous each
tion of
its
however
emperors whc
silk.
(
*
Wt
great.
passed in the beginning
wore a dress holosericum ) composed entirely of
ing in
and
have refused his empress’s particular requesi
Tacitus, that a law was
set aside this law,
of
rarity
was so expensive
it
on account of the price being so
for a silken robe,
its
equal weight in gold;
its
even in the time of Aurelian, in the year 275, that he
was introduced
was most probably in the time
Caesar.
was sometimes
of silk
After
this,
quantity of this material used in England alone, amount-
year to more than four millions of pounds’ weight.
Fourteen thousand millions of animated creatures annually live and die to supply thb If astonishment be ex utec little corner of the world with an article of luxury. at this fact, let us extend our view into China, and survey the dense populawidely spread
region,
who, from the emperor on
his throne to the
peasant in the lowly hut, are indebted for their clothing to the labour of Lardrier’ s Cabinet Cyclopaedia . silk-worm.” t
“Ne
vestis serica viros feedaret.”
Annal
.
1.
ii.
c. 33.
.
he
;
SILK.
became general among the wealthy
the custom of wearing silk soon
made
As
Rome.
citizens of
demand
the
Ammianus
have been worn even by the lowest
The
England
at the
silk
appears
to
Marcellinus,
gradually
it
appears
silk
classes.*
and weaving
art of spinning, throwing,
into
were
for silk increased, efforts
import larger quantities, and the price of
to
declined, for in the time of ro
47
commencement of the
was introduced
silk,
fifteenth century ;
centuries
previously:
Margaret,
been used by persons of distinction
have
for
appeared in
cointises-
but about the year
in England, J
—
these were knitted
Marcel,
articles
fabrics,
lib.
;
stockings
The
the
and
produced consisted of
and these in no great
first
in the latter years of the
t
Matthew
By
^ bound
first
who
silk
was
For an
interesting account of
the
Roman
is
referred to
Gib-
Empire.
Paris.
statute 33 to find
About
was the
historian Pausanias
the introduction of the seric insect into Europe, the reader
and Fall of
engage in
to
pair of silk stockings
were her only wear.§
the produce of the trees of the Seres or Chinese.
t
first
Before his time, the ancients imagined that
xviii. c. 6.
described the silk-worm.
bon’s Decline
knights
of silk was
men began
1480,
Henry VIII wore
reign of Elizabeth, silk
Am.
the
and similar narrow
the manufacture.
*
English
The manufacture
silk, f
silk-women
called
laces, ribbons,
quantities;
the marriage of
1251, at
a thousand
III,
England in the reign of Henry IY, by a company
practised in in London,
of
year
in the
daughter of Henry
but
two
Henry VIII,
a person whose wife wore a silk
gown was
a charger for government.
§ It is related by Howell, in his History of the World (vcl. ii. p. 2*22) that queen Elizabeth, in the year 1561, was presented with a pair of black knit silk stockings, by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, at which she was so much delighted that she thenceforth never condescended to wear those of cloth. It might have been supposed that Elizabeth’s inordinate fondness for dress would have induced her to give every encouragement to the manufacture of so elegant ,
a fabric as silk:
h
it
during her reign.
does not, however, appear that
Content, probably, with her
much own
progress
was made
acquisition, she
in
might
be desirous that the more becoming silken texture should remain a regal privi-
— 4S
a;
SILK.
reign
1620, in the latter part of the
of Jatnes
broad
the
I,
silk
manufacture was introduced into this country; and in 1629
it
progressed with such vigour and
throw-
of
sters
the
advantage, that the
silk
had
and parts adjacent, were incorporated into
city
company: which company,
1661, employed
in
above forty thou-
In 1719, a silk throwing mill was erected at Der-
sand persons.
and, from that period to the beginning of the present century,
by;
various improvements were introduced time, or
during
and the
able ;
perhaps
:
but those made since that
the last fifty years, have been consider-
manufacturers in this country
silk
can
now
vie
with that of any other. It
would be irrelevant
the history of
nevertheless,
subject,
which
the
mode of
insect
before
it
is
— the it
fully into ;
production
winding from the
quent processes of converting
more
—
worm which produces it interest. The metamorphoses
little
with
replete
undergoes, or
filature,
to this volume, to enter
or of the
silk,
cocoons,
of the
silk,
— and the
—
its
subse-
and organzine,
into singles, tram,
for the various purposes of the arts, will be found
fit
fully described in fore proceed to
all
works on
manufacture.
silk
mention the various kinds of
ent purposes for which they are used as
but previously to doing
so,
We
silk,
articles
shall there,
and the
differ-
of needlework
we cannot omit quoting
the following
simple lines of the poet Cowper, on
THE SILK-WORM. “The beams
A
lege;
of April, ere
worm, scarce
it
goes,
visible, disclose
j
and while she displayed her own ancles in the
delicate
silken knit, was,
perhaps, well pleased that her 'maids of honour should conceal theirs under tne
clumsy and inelegant cloth hose, lest, haply, among these, some might have been found rather more beautifully formed than her own.
SILK.
49
All winter long content to dwell The tenant of his native shell.
The same prolific season gives The sustenance by which he lives, The mulberry leaf, a simple store, That
serves
him
—
he needs no more!
till
For, his dimensions once complete,
Thenceforth none ever sees him eat; till his growing time be past Scarce ever is he seen to fast.
Though
That hour
He
work
arrived, his
begins.
and weaves, and weaves and spins; Till circle upon circle, wound Careless around him and around, Conceals him with a veil though slight, spins
Impervious to the keenest sight.
Thus self-inclosed, as in a cask, At length he finishes his task: And, though a worm when he was lost, Or caterpillar at the most, When next we see him, wings he wears, And in papilio pomp appears; Becomes oviparous;
—
#
Well were
Who Were All
silk
is
worms.
The
also
articles,
is
such
it
as
ball,
most he
be,
same,
to
be met
there
is
a
great
which
it
which
it
exhibits,
under various
undergoes by the
silk
As used
arts.
with under the following heads
for :
it
prepared for the manufacture of particular
mittens,
of the
although
to the purposes of the
same,
more tightly or loosely 5
the
to the processes
be found
modifications
if all
and quality, even from the same breed of
different appearances
throwster, to adapt it
world
shorter-lived than
essentially
owing
needlework,
for the
useful in their kind as he.”
difference in its value
forms, are
it
creep about this earthly
Though
may
supplies
With future worms and future flies The next ensuing year and dies!
stockings, either
twisted.
&c.
but
by being
By
the
they
finer
or
are
merely
coarser, or
terms fine and coarse,
53
SILK.
are
not
be understood,
to
size of its thread, as
number
the quality
may
it
by
of the filaments spun
Mitorse, or half-twisted
and
silk,
similar
is
requisite
using
for
less
SILK.
that
employed by the Chinese
for
Considerable practice and care, however,
their double embroidery.
are
or
greater
one of the most useful kinds for
is
to
but the
material,
the worm.
MITORSE
needlework,
of the
be composed of a
with
it
which
the perfection
highly
so
characterises the embroidery done with this description of material,
by
French;
the
other
impossibility
with
skill,
silks,
nor
it
Mitorse silk articles It is
is
so likely
or
work
the
superior
they
this
that
excel
if this
its
be
all
and the
silk,
of one size,
but
;
to
of
defects
executed
of any of the floss
become â&#x20AC;&#x153;fluffyâ&#x20AC;? in the wear.
to
applicable to
is
of furniture,
which
in
make
always
twist
its
far
work
peculiar
visible in
the effect is
the
of keeping
become
are apt to
of
a species
From
nations.
the
all
kinds of embroidery intended as
nichwckeries
,
of the drawing room.
decidedly the best and only kind which should be used, where
the work
is
intended to be edged with a gold cord.
waistcoats, and other articles of dress, rior to
any
For embroidery on
other.
every other description of material. introduced
with
good
effect
in
it
will be
For working
found to be supe-
cloth, it surpasses in
beauty
Mitorse silk has lately been
some parts of wool work, on
canvas, for slippers, bags, and other small articles. s
NETTING Netting
silks,
or
Purse
description: they are
coarse
and
fine
SILKS.
twists, are too
made of various
and of
different
well-known to need any
sizes, or, as
qualities.
they are termed,
They
are to be pro-
SILK.
5J
up
cured of most colours, neatly rolled
perhaps, excel us in the manufacture
cordonnets
they generally wind upon reels; their chine netting surpass
anything which has, as
yet,
The French
in skeins.
of their
which
,
silks certainly
been produced in England,
both in the taste displayed in the intermixture of their colours,
and in the brilliancy of their dyes; but they do not always possess that regularity, either in size or quality throughout the length of
the reels, as the English skeins. Purse-twists
and
netting
particularly
may
used
are
where mitorse
purposes
well
are
those
besides
adapted
for
would be found too thick
silks
of
embroidery,
and
;
be used with excellent effect upon cloth or velvet, to produce
The
the appearance of gold.
admirably, that, distinguish
it,
takes the
distance,
atmosphere, twist
it
it
it
from gold
tint
of or
mat
so
almost impossible to
is :
is
it
therefore well
embroidering of altar and pulpit cloths, and other
where gold might be required,
purposes
as,
a closer resemblance
bears
.
from exposure
From
does not change or tarnish.
than any other description of stitch,
silk
colour be good,
the
if
at a little
suited for the
its
various
for*
They
knitting.
to
gold
cord,
or bullion,
For tambour work
silk.
to the
the firmness of
or
chain
netting silks are also peculiarly adapted.
Sewing
silks are
merely a
commonly made of
fine description of netting silk,
most
the inferior and less valuable portions of the
same material.
CROCHET Crochet
or
silk,
Sole
half tightened in the
twist
|
differing
from
flexibility
and
it
misserre
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
is
SILK.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
a
so called
coarse
from
only in the mode of twisting.
softness,
it
is
more
its
being only
description of cordonnet
From
suitable for crochet
its
great
work than
— 52
SILK.
common
the
purse or netting
and has a more
silk,
glossy appearance than these usually possess,
by
deteriorated
the closeness
with which
brilliant
— their
their
lustre
fibres
and
being
are twisted
together.
DACCA Dacca
silk,
called
by the French
composed.
and
much
;
of the embroidery for which
now executed
in mitorse
For copying Berlin patterns Dacca
silk
number of
of
tints
4
where fine,
silk
may
floss silk
threads
its
Dacca
*
its
silk
trade, all
may
the
fine canvas,
can be procured in a
it
wools;
—hence
silks
for
difficulties
will
above purposes.
the
and when required very
;
be divided.
usually done
—frequently
up
which
in knotted
is
but improperly
Dacca
is
province
it
skeins, in
contra-
twisted into hanks.*
termed Decca, or even
name from Dacca, a town of Hindoostan,
This town as
:
would be found too thick
quarter of Bengal, of which capital.
at the
be used for intermixing with wools on fine canvas,
silks are
Dacca
is
shades, but not in the almost unlim-
German
distinction to the floss silk,
derives
it
was then used
working on
in silk, or
sometimes occur in selecting these
Dacca
it
silk.
should always be chosen
great variety of colours and ited
fine
which
descriptions of flat embroidery,
all
was formerly much more in demand than
It
present day
being
denominated
filaments of silk of
some kinds of raised work, such as the small raised
also for
roses.
used for
It is
sole ovale , is
number of
or coarse, according to the it is
SILK.
Decker
,
situated in the eastern
was, within the
last
century, the
very favourably stationed for an inland emporium of
river
communicates
the other inland navigation.
which are among the most
Besides
directly, silks, it
and not
circuitously,
with
has a large trade in muslins,
delicate that are sought after
in Europe.
It
must
SILK
53
FLOSS SILK. Floss is
or
silk,
used for
all
thicker
sole jplatte , is a
patterns,
taste
may
may
be
dictate.
and beautiful fineness
the silk
and in other parts of worsted-work
employed
also
It is
much used
It
effect.
is
on coarse canvas.
Floss
it
is
prepared
in
smoother than the French are
now
embroidery
for
or
and
;
may
it
be adapted to the size of
Dacca
and
entirely
those
are
silks
;
with
England,
preferable, as
is
a fact which
Floss
works
it
the French themselves
willing to admit.
This description of
silk,
as
Dacca
also
must be manu-
silk,
factured from the finest part of the product of the silkworm, as
does
it
not undergo the process of twisting or organzining, which
might otherwise hide any necessity,
therefore,
Floss
silk,
not,
good,
silk-throwsters.
The
sole , or
and
for
the
is
purposes
more commonly
that portion
not, however, be supposed that
It
speaking
is
of
dearer
needlework,
of
mistaken for that known as
latter is
quality.
comparatively
silks.
denominated,
so
however, be
filoselle ,
trivial defect in its
when
than some of the twisted
must
in
articles of dress are generally
of which are worked in Scotland.
done, the greater part as
fancy
manufactured of various degrees of
which the common' embroideries on
silk,
as
but pieces of work are seldom executed
;
required
grounding canvas work, with a most rich
for
and coarseness, so that
canvas
and
silk,
silk is
a more brilliant effect to
for heightening the lights, or for giving
gem
of
description
kinds of tapestry work, wherever
floss
called
by the
bourre
de
of ravelled silk thrown on
Dacca silk is imported from thence, the term only being applied to a particular manufacture of this material as first prepared
n
;
that part of India.
SILK
54
one side in the filature of the cocoons, but which
This
of commerce.
French
the
although
purpose for which
which distinguishes spun
The
much
has perhaps, too
it
,
appears
it
be
to
articles of
well adapted,
â&#x20AC;&#x153; cottonyâ&#x20AC;?
of the
silk
sometimes used by
is
grounding pieces of work intended as
for
a
furniture,
bourre de soie
article,
afterwards
is
and forms the spun
carded and spun like cotton or wool,
appearance
silk.*
Lombardy generally wear clothes of home-spun by improved processes, fine fabrics of this material have been produced both in England and France. M. Ajac, of Lyons, presented, at one of the French national expositions of the objects of industry, a great variety of scarfs and shawls, manufactured of bourre de soie *
female peasants of
Of
floss silk.
years,
late
}
closely resembling those of Cachemir.
Beside the product of the bombyx there are other materials closely resembling ,
and attempts have, at various times, been made to render them equally subservient to the wants of man. It is well known that some species of spiders possess the power of spinning a bag somewhat similar in form and silk
;
substance to the
cocoon of the
At
silk-worm.
commencement of the M. Bon, from which
the
a quantity of these bags were collected by
last century,
was manufactured, said to be in no way inferior to that of It was susceptible of all kinds of dyes, and might have been used for every purpose to which silk was applicable. M. Bon had gloves and stockings made from it in fact, the only obstacle which appeared to prevent the establishment of any considerable manufacture from the silk of spiders, was the difficulty Vide of obtaining it in sufficient abundance. Ezamen de la Soye des Araignees par M. de Reaumur, in the Mems. Acad, a kind of
the seric
silk
insect.
;
,
des Sciences, 1712.
The pinna
,
also,
a shell-fish found in great abundance in the Mediterranean,
has been called the silk-worm of
The
testacea.
generic
upright, gaping at one end, is
the sea.
character
is
is
as the
spider
and
scarcely inferior in fineness
acquainted with this :
one.
caterpillar.
comparatively minute silk-worm.
silk
;
shell,
In
fish,
bivalve
The
and beauty
The
byssus, to
;
common with
has the power of spinning a viscid matter from
same manner duces,
belongs to the order of the vermes
and furnished with a byssus or beard
without teeth, the valves are united in
the pinna
],]
It
animal, a limax
:
a
its
which
single
it
the
in*
thus
pro-
filament of the
ancients appear to have been intimately
from the threads
Roman
fragile,
the muscle
body,
of which they wove a kind of
a robe of this singular material was, according to Procopius
the gift of one of the
;
the hinge
(lib.
emperors to the satraps of Armenia.
iii.
It
c. is
;
SILK.
now manufactured by
the
Italians
for
55
is
the principal object of the fisheries,
wrought with siderable
number of
a
of
pair
threads.
their
the
It
these fish to
latter,
although
A
curiosity.
its
and
several
make even one possessing
In
Sicily, the
made pinna
beautiful manufactures are
however,
requires,
oair of gloves,
XIV.
from the byssus, were presented to Pope Benedict
the
produce of a con-
pair of gloves
or stockings
warmth, may, from
great
:
their
extreme fineness and delicacy, be easily contained in a snuff-box of ordinary Aristotle gave the name byssus to the silken threads of the pinna marina ; but whether it was on account of its resemblance to the byssus o which some of the ancient garments were made, or whether this was the true Dyssus itself, is uncertain, as the term appears to have been applied indifferentThe description ly to any material that was spun and woven finer than wool. of the byssus given by Julius Pollux (lib. vii. c. 27) evidently refers to cotton. this he Aristotle also relates that the pinna keeps a guard to watch for her To this calls pinnophylx and describes as a little fish with claws like a crab. description the Greek poet Oppianus was indebted, when he says size.
;
,
:
“The
pinna and the crab together dwell,
For mutual succour,
They
in
common
one
shell
both to gain a livelihood combine.
That takes the
prey,
when
this
has given the sign;
From hence this crab, above his fellows famed, By ancient Greeks was Pinnotores named.”
There
is
—
threads, that
equal
if
it
is
glass.
—
a most beautiful production of art, which This has been spun into such extremely delicate
another material
still
claims our attention
woven with a warp formed of
not superior to those of gold and
silver.
silk into the
The
richest brocades,
introduction of
woven
however, does not appear to have met .with the success that was anticiIt is objectionable as not pated, notwithstanding its brilliant appearance. possessing the same degree of flexibility as silk, or it might otherwise be used glass,
as a material for
needlework with excellent
effect.
CHAPTER (Soli*
u
Then
attir
VI
Silocr.
threads of gold both artfully dispose,
And,
as each .part in just proportion rose,
Some
antique fable in their
work
disclose.â&#x20AC;?
Ovid.
MONG
the
employed in nee-
various materials
dlework, the application of the precious metals
extremely
Gold
curious.
the former) were
especially
not
are
now
those
as
mentioned by the pure
the
divided filed
*
so
metal,
as
The method
;
into
is
purple,
and in the
scarlet,
it
into wires, to
and in the
a
The
earliest
but we
such
gold
with
gold
and
afterwards
hammer, and then invention
of em-
thus mentioned in the twentyu And they did beat the
ninth chapter of Exodus, in allusion to the ephod gold into thin plates, and cut
plates
by
wire.*
of using gold for needlework
this,
;
were in fact worked with thin
were rounded or
in the
embroideries
the
historians,
form threads
to
for
beaten
slips,
from
understand
use
ancient
which,
small
into
to
in
used
is
(more
silver
and weaving
ages both for embroidery
threads
and
:
work
it
fine linen, with
in the blue, and in the cunning work.â&#x20AC;?
GOLD AND SILVEk. with
broidery
Pergamus
been
has
gold,
but the
;
robe
manifest,
is
woven
The
when we
king
Attalus,
which
perfection to are
of
as
We
by Yerrius.J
also
that
are
again
had been
it
Agrippina wore a
that
told
any linen or woollen
by Lampridius,f
tunic of Heliogabalus, as described
was of the same material, mentioned
to
entirely of gold threads,* without
The
ground.
ascribed
had evidently been practised in several
art
of the preceding centuries.
brought
57
of Tarquinius
informed
PriscuSj
of a
similar
mantle taken from the statue of Jupiter, by the tyrant Dionysius; besides
others, not
to
mention the fabulous net of the
which Vulcan entrapped Mars related, that
was so extremely
it
were unable to perceive
by Vulcan on There
the
we
are
this,
it
is
gods themselves told,
was forged
modern method
the preparation of metal similar to the
Very few remains of
museum
In the
been discovered.
wire
locks of
fifty
into the form of a curl bracelets,
— and
that
the anvil.
of wire-drawing.
which has
fine
no passage in any ancient author, in which mention
is
made of
is
it,
poets, in
and Venus, and of which
made
:
of wire,
as
wire-work have
ancient
a
at Portici, is
thick
as
bronze head,
small
a
quill,
bent
and a small statue of Venus has golden round the arms and
legs.
From
the
appearance of some wire found at Thebes, however, Mr. Wilkinson
we
are almost justified in the
is
of opinion that
a
mode of wire-drawing was known
* “
Auro
textili sine alia
t Yit. Heliogab.
c.
materie,” Plin.
Plin.
§
That the Egyptians had
xxxiii. c.
gold thread or wire, linen, cloth,
and
for
lib.
conclusion, that
Egyptians
and the
xxxiii. c. 19.
23.
t
lib.
to the
is
19.
arrived at great perfection in the art of
evident from
making
being sufficiently fine for weaving with
The* exceeding delicacy of the linen corslet Herodotus (lib. iii. c. £3,) on which numerous
embroidery
of Amasis, as mentioned by
its
GOLD AND SILVER.
58
omission of every representation of the process, in their paintings,
cannot be adduced as an argument against the
have
also
to
failed
depict
other arts with which
the
Roman
made
emperors
time of the
last
of flattened
wire covered round
Gold and
the ruins
in
gilt,
silver threads, as
is
silk,
;
nor are there any or
silk
used
the
best
instances
of silver
thread, or
or'
â&#x20AC;˘
#
round which an extremely thin *
silver itself, or copper plated, is
Gold
gilt,f
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
For
flat-
never used for this
itself is
former being of thread, either
silver
used in a similar manner.
â&#x20AC;&#x2122;
With
prepared, of various sizes, the different articles
meet with are manufactured,
ijye
Gold
Herculaneum or Pompeii.
and most expensive.
the material thus
various
at the present day, are generally
purpose, but a silver or copper wire
course
they
since
and
of metal, even to the
entirely
either of
spun.* composed of a thread of
tened wire of the metal
fact,
metals,
they were undoubtedly acquainted.
thread appears to have been
other wire
of
casting
such as .
fringes,
laces,
tassels,
cord, &c.
The
finer
kinds of work in gold and
of time best executed in France and first
machine
for
wire-drawing
Italy.
was
were for a length
silver
It
is
said that
by
invented
the
Rudolph,
at
of animals were wrought in gold, must have required a proportionate
figures
degree of fineness in the gold thread used for that purpose.
A
encased in gold leaf, and this compound cylinder is then round wire down to a certain size, which is afterwards flatted in a This flatted wire is then wrapped or laid over a thread of yelrolling mill. By the aid of low silk, by twisting with a wheel and iron bobbins. mechanism, a number of threads may thus be twisted at once by one moving *
drawn
silver rod is
into
power.
The
principal
nicety
consists in
so
regulating the
the successive volutions of the flatted wire on each thread
movements, that
may
just touch one and form a continuous covering. By the ordinances of France, itwas formerly required to be spun on flaxen or hempen threads.
another,
t
The
inferior
Mosaic gold.
manufactures of gold, or copper
gilt,
are
frequently
called
GOLD AND SILVER.
Anthony Fournier,
Nuremberg, in 1360.* improved
an
Held,
or
afterwards, an
a
exclusive patent for
renewed for
same
the
manufacture for
its
emperor Rudolphus gilt
Nuremberg!
His patent in
II,
of the
artist
of
citizen
was afterwards doubled.
copper wire,
a Frenchman, brought
of drawing fine wire to
art
where, a few years sheimer,
59
town,
fifteen
or plated with silver.
in
1570,
of Hagel-
received
an
which term
years,
by a grant from the
also,
included
1608,
name
the
manufacture
of
1602 this patent was
In
more by the emperor Matthias, and ten
fifteen years
years afterwards, was converted into a fief to the heirs male of the family of Held.
the year
with mills was introduced. established a
first
Anderson^
the
gold
and
silver,
England was manu-
in
when
Momma
for wire
first flatting
near Richmond, in 1663, by a fine
1565,
Jacob
manufactory
says, that
made
All the wire
by hand*until
factured
the art of drawing
and Daniel Demetrius
drawing
at
Esher
was erected
mill
Dutchman, who began
such as could be used
to
:
and
Sheen
at
prepar^
for spinning
round
been flatting mills in town-book of Augsburg, under the year 1451, is the name of a person called Chunr. Tratmuller de Tratmul, as a wire drawer. Vide Beckmann, vol. ii. p. 241. t Nuremberg, during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, attained the height * In the
of
its
fifteenth
other
several
places
century, besides
wealth and prosperity.
there
appear
Nuremberg.
It
was the
produce of Italy and the Levant, which
to
In
have
the
chief mart and staple place for the
received principally from Venice and Genoa, and distributed over the north and west of Europe. But commerce and the carrying trade of Europe, were by no means the only sources of its wealth since, in the extent and celebrity of its manufactures, it deserves to be considered as the Birmingham of the period. many of whom Its artisans may more properly be styled artists, especially the workers of metals, smiths, armourers, cutlers, casters in bronze, and goldsmiths were esteemed the most cunning and skilful craftsmen in Europe, and their productions highly prized ; the cloth weavers and dyers were likewise in high repute. Vide Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hand book Southern Germany. it
;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
,
i
Geschichte des Handels, vol. v. p. 484.
f
GOLD AND SILVER.
60
weaving, which, before that period, had been manufactured
silk for
only on the
The of the
by
improved
The
being alloyed
what a
by
of
act
the
silver
be
greatly
quantity of
copper.
was, until
gilding
the
parliament.
gold
;
colour
the
to to
said
small
a
used in
of fineness
regard is
gold
the
of
It
amazing
is
drawn, yet
is
it
still
appearance
least
of
beneath.
silver
The silver,
degree
it
firmly together without showing the
keeps the
with
gold to be
proportion of
of late years, regulated to
wire,
purest
the
durability
With
it.
body of the
the
of
choice
the
is
from
prepared
articles
which forms
manufacture of gold thread, and one
beauty and
depends the
this
of the
in the
consequence,
greatest
on
for
Continent. object
first
various names under which the manufactures of gold and
employed
as
for needlework,* will be
^ord, braid, bullion, (both
found, are,
—
passing,
rough, smooth, and checked), spangles,
and beads.
paillons, lames,
PASSING.
Passing size,
—of gold
closely
material
of
perfection
to
brought.
It
embroidery,
way.
*
The
or silver
resembling
a
which the
may
Passing
a smooth
is
thin
metallic
of an uniform It
is
the
finest
of
art
making gold
thread
been
has
be used in the same manner as silk for
needle
may
being
also be
threaded with
employed
Chinese, instead of flatted
gilt
wire,
gold in the
for knitting,
generally
which they interweave and embroider
paper, with
thread, wire.
kind manufactured, and peculiarly exhibits the
this
the
—
their
flat
usual
netting,
and
employ slips of gilt and twist upon
stuffs,
silk threads.
+
There
are various
technical terms for
necessary to trouble the reader.
some of
these, with
which
it
is
un-
GOLD AND SILVER. crochet.
It
made
is
01
of two or three different sizes ;
by
tinguished from gold cord
wire
tened
twisted round the
spirally
is
should be round,
prevent
to
and
large in the
through
flat-
being the
sufficient size
passed
is
it
its
dis-
backwards
The Turks embroider with
work/
the
is
the
passing,
and of
eye,
fraying of the gold as
the
forwards
and from
silk,
For embroidery with
formed of only one thread. needle
and
closeness with which
the
passing on morocco leather in the most beautiful manner.
GOLD CORD. Gold or
number of /ire
cord
silver
wound round them
in order that
it
the flattened
in a contrary direction to that of passing,
shall not ravel
by it
the
second process of twisting.
is
seldom employed of a larger^
Gold cord may be used
than two, three, or four threads.
size
by having
threads are formed
For the purposes of needlework,
for
composed of two or any other
a twist
is
The
threads.
edging braid work and
flat
embroidery
it ;
may
also
be em-
ployed for working patterns in a similar manner with braid.
should be
sewn on with a
surface so as to chip
it,
fine silk
needle
care that the point of the
o*f
the
same
It
colour, taking
does not penetrate the metallic
and betray the
silk beneath.
The
needle
should be held in as horizontal a position as possible, and passed
between the interstices of the cord, slightly taking up a thread or
two of the surface
Gold cord
is
it
is
much
canvas work, but
its
intended to ornament. introduced
wool in some kinds of
with
merit
applicability or
by the approbation of those who use
it.
It
must be determined is,
however, to be
admitted, that as a ground for small articles of extreme luxury,
it
,
may
and, if properly managed,
be employed with beautiful effect ;
it
is
not so expensive as might be imagined.
GOLD AND SILVER.
G2
GOLD BRAID. Braid
made of
a kind of plaited lace,
is
the application of which
is
too well
known
judgment of the needlewoman must the quality and make, as is
intended.
If
preferable.
or
It
copper-gilt,
to
three or
to
direct
best Suited to the purposes for
work on
a round full close
velvet,
The
her in the selection of
made of various widths and
is
more threads,
need comment.
which
it
make
is
qualities ;
mosaic,
same time,
being the least expensive, but, at the
the least durable.
BULLION. Bullion
is
in length. that
it
manufactured in pieces of about thirty-eight inches
composed of a
It is
with
the
kinds
—the
into
scissors
wire
fine
forms a smooth, round,
elastic
lengths
the
rough, the smooth,
so
tube,
exquisitely twisted,
which may
and the checked
— and
frequently used together in the same piece of work;
suppose a large
drawing cut
into
is
this
again
of
the
requisite
size;
are
—the
three
stitches
might be
the smooth, two with the rough, two with the checked,
two
with
the
rough,
of
the
letter.
and three with the smooth
pattern,
— In
cution of a correctly twisted
be accomplished but by those attention.
;
and very much enrich the
some descriptions of embroidery
the stems of flowers are worked with
<md
these
for instance,
were to be embroidered in bullion,
would form a kind of
appearance
cut
made, the surface raised with cotton, and the bullion
pieces
made with then
letter
bfe
There are three
required.
gold
bullion
:
but the exe-
stem with this material can rarely
who have devoted
to
it
both tims
GOLD AND SILVER.
G3
SPANGLES.
•
Spangles, or paillettes, are small pieces of silver or other metal •
gilt
or
cut into
plated,
various
forms,
and pierced in the centre with a is
more generally rounded, through which the
hole,
spangles
curious
a
is
process
they
;
were
demand, but are now seldom used except
and
The value of
tassels.
silk
The manufacture
passed which attaches them to the work.
formerly
in
of
great
ornamenting fringes
for
depends on their brilliancy
spangles
and colour and the quantity of gold consumed
in the gilding of
them. •
LAMA AND PAILLON. Lama, or lame metal,
which
,
may
is
a
gilt
strips,
with the scissors or a punch. ing of
worked the
with
by
which
it
tinsel.
'the is
An
it.
punch
used
for
It
for
or
employed
is
extremely
of
any shape
thin
desired, either
for the
various embroideries
ornament-
on crepe or
Indian muslins from Bengal are sometimes
celebrated
name of
pieces
and
dresses,
ladies’
The
net.
sheet
or plated
be cut into
of lama
imitation
This is
termed
paillon
needlework.
is
well
when cut
material
It
,
— the also
is
known under
into very small
general
form
in
manufactured of
various colours.
GOLD
BEADS.
Gold beads are either cut or plain
they
differ
very materially
;
both in quality and value, according to the quantity of gold employed
m
in
kinds of
all
their
manufacture.
They
are
very pretty auxiliaries
gold work, and when gold
is
introduced
with
GOLD AND SILVER.
54
wool and canvas,
are
not readily tarnish,
Gold beads
are
the
and,
used
work with silk
crochet
termixed
with
and most suitable
best
securely sewn on are
if
for
kinds
all
as ;
coloured beads,
of
with
also
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a
as ;
knitting,
of
and
netting,
beautiful effect
description
they do
very durable.
when
work we
in-
shall
more particularly describe in a subsequent chapter.
GOLD FRINGES. Gold and if
descriptions of trimmings this climate
might
be
houses
.
made of
all
widths and qualities;
of the
The above gold
ornamental
for
Even
needlework.
they will wear for a great length of time
more
and
generally
wealthy,
velvet cushions,
in
are
silver fringes
applied with taste, they certainly form one of the most elegant
to
and other
are
the
silver
applied,
the
it
is
;
and they
on the Continent, in the
mounting of
articles
different
which
as
in
furniture,
such as
of a decorative character.
materials
employed
necessary to
for
working
enumerate.
The
various kinds of laces and other manufactures employed for military purposes, together with this
a totally different branch of the the scone
of those
description of embroidery, form art,
which does not come within
who pursue needlework
as an amusement.
—
CHAPTER
VII
CljeniUc, Braiits, etc.
—“Here tfcey may make And skip from worke
choyce of which to
worke from
is
which,
stitch to stitch.”
John Taylor.
ESIDES gold,
and
the
principal
silver, there are
materials,
—wool,
silk,
others which, although
not so generally employed, must not be passed
over in silence.
We
shall endeavour, therefore, t®
give a brief notice of these, commencing with
CHENILLE.
With
the exception of the precious metals, chenille
costly material used in needlework. close
resemblance
most beautiful * Chenille: .
6
bears to some species
application
“Un
V Acad Fran
it
It derives its
tissu
de
of
soie
chenille
veloutd.
is
qui
is
the most
name from
of caterpillars.* in embroidery
imite
la
on
the
The silk
chenille.”— Diet, da
;
:
CHENILLE, BRAIDS, ETC.
66 canvas, for
flowers or arabesques:
representation
of birds;
and,
is
it
also well adapted for thÂŤ
any extraneous
if
can
article
be
admitted with silk and wool, in the working of Berlin patterns, the most
this appears to be
be well
with
depicted
the effect of chenille
extremely
is
worked in Irish
being
appropriate,
For
it.
rich,
can
draperies
and
borders,
pillows,
both the design and ground
grounds
Silk
stitch.
as velvet
table-cover
are
admired
also
with patterns in chenille. Chenille
more commonly made of
is*
manufactured
been
pensive, there
is
of
wool,
but
a broder
coarse
the
next
canvas work and crochet,
:
is
called
is
its
The
which
size,
it ;
a very trifling difference in
of chenille are those usually employed chenille
silk
the process
as
however,
has,
equally ex-
is
Two
cost.
smallest
is
sizes
termed
used for
principally
% chenille ordinaire.
BRAID.
Braid
is
of three kinds,
union cord
is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Russia,
French and round
more frequently employed than the
braid,
latter.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;but
Braids
are manufactured either of gold or silver, silk, worsted, or cotton
gold and
silk,
and silver and
silk,
sometimes mixed together
are
in the same piece.
The
application
of braids in forming a most elegant
species of embroidery is
not
be
too
much
well
admired,
known, either
and, if
for
and easy
well executed,
folios,
bags, note
can cases,
The first process in the manufacture of chenille, is that of weaving; this done in the same manner as plain weaving, with the exception that the threads of the warp are placed at short and regular distances from each other, When woven, it is cut with according to the required size of this material. *
is
scissors
as
it
between the threads of the warp into
were, on each side.
The more
tightly chenille
They is
strips,
leaving a fringed edge,
are afterwards twisted with a proper machine.
twisted, the thicker
and
closer the
pile
becomes.
CHENILLE, BRAIDS, ETC.
67
sachets, table cover borders, chairs, ottomans,
and other pieces of
The
furniture, besides various articles of dress.
must be good where nicety of work
quality,
however
is desired.
UNION CORD.
Union
cord
is
often employed
with
dition
of gold cord, serves as a pretty
is also
very
rich,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
braid,
and with the ad-
Gold union cord
relief.
close braiding patterns, or a vermicelli pattern,
being best calculated for
its display.
STRAW.
A
flat plaited straw,
into worsted work, for It is
with both edges carriage
baskets,
has
has been introduced
and other fancy
articles.
exceedingly pretty, and well adapted to these purposes from
bright appearance and durability.
its
alike,
also
been
done
on velvet and
Embroidery with silk,
split
straw
and has a curious and
beautiful effect.
NACRE AND ECA1LLE. Nacre, or mother of yearly
cut into paillettes of various forms,
has been employed in a peculiar species of needlework with good effect; it is not,
however, commonly to be met with, and
practised in this
country.
Nacre
is
generally worked
is
seldom
on velvet
or satin, to represent birds or flowers, either in relief or flat; the
stems and other parts being formed of gold bullion.
It is
some-
times used for embroidering parts of the vestments of the clergy in Catholic countries.
Another description, known by the name of imitation of the above.
Pieces of flattened
ecaille loorlc, is
quill,
an
cut into simi-
CHEN1LLE BRAIDS; ETC.
08
;
lar
same manner.
cut
with
at the
much
but by a
shapes,
the
a
The
punch
expensive process, are used in
less
(as
ecaille
the
whilst
improperly termed)
is
it
quill
a
in
is
soft
same time pierces the small holes by which This
attached.
work
of
species
Whether
pretty than the preceding. dery, its
is
is
it
is
which
state,
be
to
perhaps
more
in
or in flat embroi-
relief,
delicate
and
on velvet when intermixed with
effect is best displayed
gold.
VELVET. Velvet flowers
most beautiful
and
effect
being worked in gold bullion. raised, the ecaille.
pasted
same
the
They may
back
are
used with
to
is
cut, thin
prevent the
be worked either
employed as
style of pattern being
Before the velvet at
with a punch,
leaves, cut
on white watered gros de Naples, the stems flat
for nacre
or
and
paper should be smoothly
becoming rough by
edges
unravelling. o
BEADS. â&#x20AC;˘
Beads are made either
gilt or plated,
detailed account of their manufacture
subsequent chapter on bead work
or of glass, or
and
use, will be
appeared in worsted work, and in an
work on perforated cardboard, but further notice of
A
.
Bugles are short glass tubes of various colours. late
steel.
found in a
inferior
They have
of
description
of
their total inapplicability renders
them unnecessary. i
PAILLONS AND PAILLETTES. Paillons and Paillettes of polished steel or coloured beautifully
foils,
may
be
introduced on velvet with gold braid and embroidery.
CHENILLE, BRAIDS, ETC.
69
CREPE.
Crepe
on
flowers
very
broidery, are
with leaves in
and
The shape
worked in white.
elegant,
of
chenille
drawn together
and
scissors,
The
required.
their
The
silver
;
but
if
natural,
leaves are sometimes
chenille
in
be cut by
to
edges
entirely
made
the petals should be
at
em-
silk
if
to
the
centres of the flowers, if of a fancy kind,
worked on gold or preferable.
or
particularly
from which those in crepe are afterwards
paper,
the
satin,
delicate
or
form
may silk
be are
worked in China ribbon, or
velvet applique.
CHINA RIBBON. China ribbon
is
at one edge, the
pretty for flowers.
also
ribbon
may
be
By
running a
silk
puckered up into a variety of
pretty and fantastic forms.
The effect
great neatness
with
many
tion difficult.
necessary to produce
a good and elegant
of these materials, renders their use and applica-
What
can be more wretched than the attempts at
ribbon work for instance, on a poor thin satin contrary, flower,
more
delicate
;
and what on the
and simple than the neatly executed crepe
and well embroidered leaf?
:
CHAPTER
VIII
CflltDttS.
“These
are the gifts of Art,
Where Commerce
He
catches
and Art
improvements in his
all
thrives most
has enrich’d the busy coast; flight,
Spread’s foreign wonders in his country’s sight,
Imports what others have invented well,
And
stirs his
own
match them or
to
’Tis thus reciprocating,
excel.
each with each,
Alternately the nations learn and teach.”
Cowper.
ANVAS
may
be classed under four distinct heads,
according to the posed.
canvas:
We
of
stoutest
where they are
threads
distinguished stance,
these
within less
as
they
a
given
contain space,
by a number corresponding
are,
it
is
com-
thread, and woollen
a
—the
greater
threads
Each canvas
numerous.
we have a number twenty, and
figures
of which
materials silk, cotton,
these are denominated fine or coarse, in
proportion
number
have
a
is
or
less
being further
to its size: thus, for in-
number
twelve, canvas
however, arbitrary, and vary conformably with
the customs of the
manufacturers in
each country, ascending or
descending relatively with their fineness or coarseness
;
and as they
:
CANVAS.
more particularly intended
are
purchasers,
it
is
71
convenience of
the
for
would perhaps be more perplexing than whether of
silk,
wholesale
not necessary for us thus to specify them, as
The
useful.
it
finest canvas,
cotton, or thread, has acquired the general appel-
lation of “Mosaic.”
SILK CANVAS.
more frequently termed Berlin canvas,
Silk,
a
as
vignette, gem, for a
grounding
for
and
adapted for
and ornamental items,
as also
however,
it
is
grounded work, where durability
is
necessary
of furniture
used
flower,
kinds of set and arabesque patterns, and
all
variety of small, useful
articles
well
is
it
generally
is
,
substitute
for
the
latter,
not so
for
well
;
calculated
as
screens and
for
much
ferable,
pillows,
and many other purposes,
can be obtained of most colours,
—but
Silk canvas
black,
white,
pre-
is far
it
time and labour being obviously saved.
Working on
primrose, are those generally employed.
but
;
and
claret,
this
canvas
requires greater neatness in finishing off the stitches at the back,
the wools or silks must not
than work intended to be grounded ;
be carried across from one part to another beneath, but cut
ofl‘
when mounted, they would show
as closely as possible, otherwise
through the meshes of the canvas, greatly detrimental to the appearance of the work. Berlin
made
of
canvas being an expensive manufacture,
an
quality
inferior
it
therefore
is
requires
frequently care
and
freest
from
;
judgment in knots, is
selection
:
— that
which
and of a firm and uniform
made
half,
its
but
is
texture, is to
widths, varying from half an inch
in
there
descriptions
is
not
of canvas
:
that
variety
four sizes
in
in
and
clearest,
its
general
be preferred. to
sizes
are
It
a yard and a as
in
other
manufactured
72
CANVAS.
which severally count about
and 40 threads
21, 29, 34,
the
to
inch.*
A
very
principally for
met
with.
made
canvas,
flexible
a few years since, but
of
entirely
bead work and purses, and
Silk
was introduced
silk,
was an expensive
it
and adapted
article,
now seldom
is
to
be
canvas, with gold and silver threads interwoven,
has also been made, but
it
does not suit the taste of the English.
COTTON CANVAS. Cotton canvas
made of
is
patent, or
French canvas,
firmness, but
and, above
considerable
superior, not only
is
and widths, and
qualities, sizes,
all
manufactured both in England, France, and
is
Germany.
on account of
from the great regularity and clearness of
all,
squareness of
the
its
meshes,
The
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an
its
its
threads,
object of very
importance to the needlewoman, whose work might
by
otherwise become most singularly distorted,
the design being
lengthened one way, and at the same time diminished the other, or the
contrary, according as
breadth of the canvas
or
it
this,
:
might be worked on the length however,
is
taken advantage of for some patterns, when to confine the
work within
casionally used which
certain
an it
evil that
may
be
becomes necessary
limits, as designs
may
be oc-
would not otherwise count to the required
dimensions.
German well
as
cotton canvas, although
adapted
procured at
much
to
thread yellow, which
*
The
some purposes
less cost
many
:
it is
as
inferior
the
generally
description, is
above,
and Âťcan be
made with every tenth
persons consider a great assistance in
threads of silk canvas are
cotton fibre
of an
formed by a fine
silk
wound round
a
.
^ r% i o
CANVAS. counting the
but
in
It is
manufactured both limp and
may
be procured of
stitches.
the
and, like
French,
texture,
French c&nvas.
not
is
it
so
should
It
strong as either
not
be
English
the
used with light or
grounds, as the yellow thread will show through the
we
should
advise
much
where
it
stiffened,
and widths
sizes
all
tension
white
work
nor
:
required in
is
j
or
the
mounting.
A
canvas, in imitation of
cotton
many, but
it
soon
loses
soils,
its
has been made in Ger-
silk,
and
colour,
otherwise very
is
inferior.*
THREAD CANVAS. Thread canvas, manufactured from hemp, 1
now seldom em-
is
ployed, except for carpets and rugs, for which purpose strength
and durability peculiarly adapt
A
usual sizes and widths.
fine thread
it
it
its
greater
made of the
is
;
canvas formed of flax
is
sometimes to be procured.
PENELOPE CANVAS. â&#x20AC;˘
Penelope canvas (so
called
is
considered
its
having the appearance of
work has been unpicked)
a canvas from which the it
from
by some
persons to be
each four threads being ready for the needle ever, stitch,
it
generally
*
A
suitable
thought dazzling to the sight.
it* is
is
speaking,
canvas for
certainly
has
by
much used work upon, how-
others,
For very
fine cross
unobjectionable and more easily seen
the
been
;
is
to
easier
work produced
made purposely
copying Berlin patterns.
for
upon
it
tapestry-stitch,
has
but
;
not
it
is
but the
not
CANVAS.
74
even
pearly
appearance,
of
done
that
over the usual
canvas,
Penelope canvas has as yet only been manufactured of cotton,
FLATTENED CANVAS. Flattened canvas, both of thread and cotton,
and
France,
passed through the possess
from the
only
differs
cylinders of a flatting
any superior
qualities, if
drawn
is
where the old method
still
adhered to
of
it,
are
all
silk or
worked,
still
does not
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an
object
of some
working with the pattern finished, is not
This plan, how-
equal to that executed on round thread canvas. ever, is
it
the greater facility
but the work, when
;
in
having been
its
machine;
we except
with which designs can be drawn upon importance,
much used
is
by
others,
continued by one house in Paris, where the patterns
drawn on the canvas, and afterwards traced with a cotton,
of the colours in which they are intended
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a process
fine
to be
rendering the work more expensive, and which
does not appear to be productive of any beneficial
result.
WOOLLEN CANVAS. Woollen canvas be
employed,
avoided, but as
is
an
article of
where the labour
it is
far
grounded work.
German manufacture, and may of grounding
from presenting the same Claret,
black, white,
colours generally used, but others
may
sought to
is
be
rich appearance
and primrose, are the
be procured.
BOLTING. Solting
is
a very fine description of woollen canvas, principally
manufactured in England, but now seldom used except
for chil
CANVAS. drenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
samplers.
yellow
colour,
purpose to
It it
:
An
called
inferior
sampler
kind canvas,
75 of is
canvas, also
generally
made
for
the
of
a
same
both are limited in width, but they are too well known
need further description.*
* Bolting is woven after the manner of gauze, of fine spun woollen yarn. was originally made for the sifting or bolting of meal or flour, whence derives
its
name.
I
;
CHAPTER
IX
« i
Berlin patterns.
u Learn hence to paint the parts that meet the view,
In spheroid forms, of light
While from
aiftl
equal hue;
the light receding or the eye,
The working
outlines take
a fainter dye,
Lost and confused progressively they fade,
Not
fall
precipitate
This Nature
from
light to shade.
and this taste pursues, Studious in gradual gloom her lights to lose The various whole with soft’ning tints to fill, As if one single head employ’d her skill.” dictates,
Du Fresnoy.
ERLIN
patterns have contributed more towards
the advancement of needlework of the present day,
than any improvement that has of introduced into the
art,
—not
late
years been
simply from the
as-
sistance they yield the needlewoman, but from the
aemand they have occasioned superior materials.
which
wmld
Hence the
for
improved and
we now
possess,
never probably have been manufactured, had they not
been imperatively called
We
beautiful wools
are indebted to
for
by
Germany,
for
the
invention
of these
designs.
both these advantages; and
it is
BERLIN PATTERNS. not a
singular, that
little
pears to be the least
evident from the
will
it
of appreciating their value,
greater portion
course an exception to needle,
country which produces them ap-
the
capable
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
as is
of the needlework exposed for
The work of German ladies is when taste and talent direct
throughout Germany.
sale
77
as
this,
be equally beautiful wherever
it
may
be
of the
found.
England, and next to her, perhaps Russia, have profited most by
The
these auxiliaries.
great deal from
them;
ladies of
Sweden and Denmark work a
the French, as
have used them but
yet,
little,
the old method of drawing the subject on canvas being
much
in vogue.
and
to America,
still
Great numbers of these patterns are exported to the various countries of the Continent.*
Berlin patterns, although a production of recent date, have be-
come an
are
of considerable commerce
article
amount of
large
either
capital is
from celebrated
copied
Germany, where a
in
They
employed in their manufacture. pictures,
or
(as
more
is
fre-
quently the case) from the newest and most favourite engravings published either in England, France, or jects,
Germany.
Many
such as flowers and arabesques, are designed expressly.
drawn
are first
on quadrille or point paper
colours
in
,
the excellence of the pattern depends principally on the sign, it
may
ing or etching
is
made on
a
From
the
canvas
:
this drawing,
de-
various
size,
marks
an engrav-
which has previously
copper-plate,
been ruled in squares of the required of
and as first
readily be imagined that artists of considerable talent
are required for their execution.
threads
f
sub-
They
corresponding to the
and
hieroglyphics
are
engraved on each check or square, which are to serve as guides
*
The
proportionate
demand
in other countries
the following order of their respective names: Italy,
may
Spain, and Portugal.
t Paper
marked out
be stated according to
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Holland,
into squares of a regular size.
Belgium, Switzerland,
BERLIN PATTERNS.
78
who afterwards
for those
part for each
The
with a different figure. a
very
colour
shade of colour, being marked state,
bears
mode
the present
on
;
being, in
merely an improvement on the designs which have fdr years
fact,
been used by weavers for their figured
The
by one
the various
the same time, each check,
at
of the pencil, the point of which
stroke
graving.
Practice
surprising
to
another
different
alone
is
laid
is
of
renders
what
with
see
is
kept very
If
on.
.
touch perfect
the
we
for
the
design
and the
and
reflect
it
is
tint
on these
diminished
there"* are
when we
and that each
engraving,
small cost at which they are to be
patterns
moment
a
by hand, we cannot
coloured
der will not be
;
and exactness each
rapidity
and the time they must necessarily occupy,
processes,
expense
square
or continuous
the engraved figures, being coloured
and of a size adapted to that of the check of the en-
square,
these
curious ;
on several patterns
the
is
quickly laid on, commencing with each separate colour
line of checks, according to
after
stuffs.*
process of colouring these patterns
are
tints
the
in this
published in old books
above two centuries since
needlework,
when
pattern,
resemblance to those
great
on paper; the
impressions
the
or separate
colour,
procured
are
considerably
be surprised at
to
fail
told,
;
and our won-
that in some of
above half a
million of
Email squares, like those of a mosaic, to be separately coloured.
All Berlin
patterns are equally adapted for
cross or tent stitch,
them. be
closely shaded, or
meagre.
*
though great judgment
Patterns intended to be enlarged
We
Difficulties
have several
the colouring,
working either in
is
requisite in choosing
by
the working, should
being dispersed, will appear
frequently arise from working these designs
impressions of the
have been kindly presented
to
patterns in this
first
us by the various manufacturers.
stage,
which
;
BERLIN PATTERNS.
79
grounding
without previously fixing on the colour of the should always be done in the well,
the colour of the ground,
Most of the
neglected.
many
as
maxim which
figure patterns
them
of
to
which
defect
overcome;
the
is
it
the
common
working
harsh and glaring in the extreme,
is
province of the expert needlewoman
rules of painting
will be
frequently a great
is
same design.
In sorting
as for instance, the
errors, such,
that light displays
first,
of
found useful in correcting
back and foreground being of the same depth of shade.
Know
a few
attention to
historical subjects,
some of the more gross of these
“
knowledge
fair
and shade, be much im-
light
in this respect, however, there
for
to
but too frequently
is
may, with a
difference even in the colouring of the
the wools
work
strict attention
extremely correct in the outlines,
are
although the colouring of most
—a
sorted , with
and a just idea of
of painting, proved,
—a
a pattern, to
instance, as
first
must always be shaded, or
this
—
'
and shade destroys
Refulgent Nature’s variegated dyes.
Thus With
bodies near the light distinctly shine
rays direct, and as
fades decline.”*
it
Black should never be used next a high light: one-eighth of every object*
and
has a high light upon
six
positively
that
parts blue,
and half
light
or
red,
most objects
yellow,
reflect the
one-eighth
it,
No
tint.
—owing
tints to
darkest shadow, in nature,
two causes
to
:
the
are one,
sky; the other, that the atmosphere
between the eye of the observer and the ness of the
is
objects
be deadened
it
:
objegt, causes the bright-
hence
arises,
that care
must
be taken to avoid the immediate contact of bright colours with
each other, where
any attempt
Du
is
made
to
imitate
Fresnoy, translated by Mason.
nature,
—the
sc
BERLIN PATTERNS.
contrary ot which,
it
would appear, was the point
some of the Berlin
at in
11
to be
arrived
patterns.
Chose such judicious
force of shade
and
light
As suits the theme, and satisfies the sight; Weigh part with part, and with prophetic eye The future power of all thy tints descry;
And
those, those only
Whose
hues are
social,
on the canvas place, whose effect is grace.”*
In some patterns, when harmony of colour alone
be sought,
is to
but a few of the more neaes-
avoid these defects;
easier to
is
it
sary rules to be observed, independent of the guidance of
may
not be unacceptable.
and browns and and the
greens
are
lilacs are
almost
contrary,
the French ecrus, are
good
upon a
scarlet
the class of drabs and
ground; blues
and
well as yellow
colder and
ill,
green
;
on
fawns (called by
greener slbades
with
taste),
lilacs;
brown-toned drabs are beautiful with yellow; pinks
greens and maize, lilac
as
and used by them with such exquisite
and greys are good
maize;
all
with blue; the
the deep rich
also lost
bad together,
taste,
and yellows assort very
Scarlets
scarlets
and
greens and red browns;
slates ;
;
with some shades of salmon col*ir; blue with
with green; and blue with
claret,
—
will all
be found
generally to please the eye.
The
greatest difficulty
which we have
the colours for figure patterns, ferent
colours
and
shades
are
is
to encounter in selecting
the face
so ;
many
here required to
totally dif-
produce,
when
worked, what should appear to be almost but as one
—and
here
the skill of the needlewoman will be fairly put to the
trial.
The
skies and clouds are also difficult to
Du
manage; the greatest nicety
Fresnoy, translated by Mason.
BERLIN PATTERNS. required in
being
8!
blending of the various colours, and to
tlie
avoid tbe liney appearance which will but too frequently occur. Berlin patterns can be copied on cloth, satin, or other materials,
by
stretching
threads, it
is
them
a
canvas
which are afterwards
much
work: by
articles of furniture, will
the
are
colour
drawn
On
out.
this means,
through
cloth,
wear much
better.
if
the
however,
when mounted,
and closer appearance, and
richer
to cut it
will
intended for
In groups of flowers,
of ground which sometimes appear between
the small interstices the leaves,
to be
and working
withdraw the threads, but only
better not entirely to off close to the
have a
to
over them,
better
of the
worked with a wool exactly corresponding cloth,
than to cut out the threads,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an
uniform surface being thus given to the whole work.
For working
these patterns on Berlin, or silk canvas, the same
rules are applicable as it
may
for canvas intended
to
be grounded;
but
not be improper to remark, in this place, on a method of
mounting small pieces of work on Berlin canvas, which has been copied from the Germans: namely, that of placing a painted sky
Good needlework
behind the canvas. its
display ;
such,
mean and
a
paltry
appearance
Vignette and flower pieces &c. even canvas,
may sometimes
or velvets, to take
silk
is
frequently
given
to
when worked on white
it.
silk
the otherwise cold appearance of the
always be of one uniform colour.
canvas should be lined with a coloured ground in
accordance with their several
A
no foreign aid for
be appropriately lined with coloured satins
away from
ground; but the lining should Coloured
requires
but here, on the contrary, instead of receiving any
tints.
few coloured paper patterns are published
consist principally of flowers, birds,
at
Vienna; they
and arabesques: some of these
surpass in beauty of design and colouring (being more true to nature)
any of those produced
at Berlin, particularly
7
when worked.
BERLIN PATTERNS.
32
We
may,
for
instance, mention
the
Parrot
pattern of the
and
Basket of Flowers, the Cockatoo and Flowers, and a most beautiful
Group of Flowers,
principally tulips, in a basket.
Attempts have been made, but unsuccessfully, atterns at
Dresden and Nuremberg-, and
to
produce similar
also at Paris ;
more wretched, It
may
not be uninteresting to observe, that the work executed
from these patterns in England,
from Berlin patterns
In Germany, the work done
frequently more defective in point
is
We
of colouring than the patterns themselves. part of our most
the greatest
and Germany
;
The French
are
their embroidery
*
We
in
formerly procured
needlework from France last
few years, so greatly
long we must be the all
kinds of canvas
exporters.
work,
— with
we can seldom compete.*
are indebted
patterns,
that ere
behind us
to
history of Berlin patterns.
some
beautiful
but the art has, within the
improved in England,
anything of the
surpasses
far
kind usually done on the Continent. for sale
but nothing
either in design or execution, can be conceived.
Mr. Wittich
—About
for the
following facts relative
the year 1805, a
the
to
Mr. Phillipson published
which, being badly executed and devoid of
taste, did
not meet
—
In 1810, Madame Wittich, a lady of with the encouragement he expected. great taste and an accomplished needlewoman, justly appreciating the advantages the art would derive from such designs, and anxious that this species of amuse-
ment
for ladies
—
prevailed upon her husband, a undertake the publication of a series of these got up in so superior a manner, that many of the first
should be more widely spread,
printseller of note at Berlin,
to
which he did, which were issued from his establishment are now in as much demand in fact, we very much doubt whether any, as those more recently published since published by other houses, have ever equalled, either in design or colouring, the earlier productions of Mr. Wittich. The designer and engraver of these patterns are of course paid as artists in proportion to their talents the cost of the first coloured design on point paper varying from three to thirty or forty guineas, but, in some instances, as in the large pattern of Bolton Abbey, the Garden of Boccaccio, &c. it is considerably The colouring affords employment both for men, women, and children more. patterns;
patterns
:
,
;
•
\ dozen or half-dozen copies are given to each person at a time, with the original
BERLIN PATTERNS. design as a guide.
An
industrious
or three shillings, per day;
the
man
seldom earns more than one
children, from
from sixpence to tenpence English.
83
From
six to
thaler,
eight silber-groschen, or
the great increase of the trade of
and the number of new houses that have sprung up, it is impossible to give (as a statistical fact) any idea of the number of persons employed in their manufacture. Besides the hands engaged in the preparation of these patterns, they have been the means indirectly of affording employment to numerous other persons, by creating a demand for new and various articles in other branches of trade; such as in the preparation and dyeing of wools and silks, the weaving of canvas, &c. whilst others, principally females, are engaged late years,
in
working the designs.
CHAPTER X Drawing patterns
for (Srtnbroiberji, Sraiiiing, ctr.
“ Artist, attend
—your
brushes and your paint.”
COWPER.
'
“ Whether the shapeless wool in balls she wound,
Or with quick motion turn’d the spindle round, Or with her pencil drew the neat design, Pallas her mistress shone in every line.”
Ovid.
ONSIDERABLE
designing
the
for
site
needlework,
most
of
skill are requi-
patterns
suitable
and drawing them on the
upon which they the
experience and
are
essential, as
difficult parts
intended
to
be worked,
—
of the most
as one
well
for
material,
Any
of the preparatory process.
person with moderate talent for drawing, can easily accomplish the operation of tracing
but
;
it
requires a combined knowledge both
of painting and needlework, to
purpose intended, as
the
in such a manner, that it
would be impossible
perfectly adapt the
design to the
draughtsman might portray
however beautiful and correct to imitate or
express
it
his it
subject
might
in embroidery.
be,
DRAWING PATTERNS. The
85
design being carefully and distinctly drawn or
must be neatly pierced with a
steel point into holes
paper,
Ke
:
it
pattern
thus prepared must be laid on the cloth, velvet, satin, or whatever
may
be the
material intended to be
taken that both are perfectly placed in the
is
firmly kept in
exact
position
worked
upon, care
it
is
intended
to
as
occupy, the
and
slightest
of the pattern would entirely destroy the effect
hifting
being
and even, and that the pattern
by means of weights,
place
its
flat
pounce :
must then be rubbed over the
skilfully
performed),
and as
beautifully
as
On removing
pierced holes.
been
so
it,
the
•
The
penetrate equally through
the paper
design
be found
as
if it
to
be
as
were actually
design thus produced on the material
must be traced over with the proper goat’s hair pencil for the purpose, if it
the operation has
(if
will
marked out
distinctly
printed on the fabric.
to
—
liquid,
using a sable
or
a camel’s hair pencil, especially
be for drawing on cloth, being too flexible.
Drawing
liquid
these designs, as
a preparation the best adapted for tracing
is
it
can be prepared of any colour, and
is
equally
adapted for every description of material that can be worked upon. All mixtures of
gum and
white lead, or other colours, should be
especially avoided, as they produce are so easily
broidery
worn
off
;
rubbed
off,
a rough,
that they injure
uneven
the
silks
and in braiding, the pattern of one part
by
while working
the
other,
patterns
are
required
the mere
surface,
and
used in emis
frequently
rubbing of
the
fingers.*
When
large
table-cloths,
ottomans,
and the
like,
to
be
drawn, such as for
where the same pattern, or
Drawing liquid is the composition made by pattern drawers to trace their and we conclude that each designer has some different preparation, the excellence of which is best tested by its tenacity, and the clearness of the outline which can be produced with it. *
designs
;
.
DRAWING PATTERNS.
86 its reverse,
both
saving
intended
is
may
repeated,
are
paper, with
be again placed in
of
division
the
guides
corresponding
certain
great
or
pounced, in order that the pattern
to be
also
found a
will be
it
time and trouble, to draw one
of
design only on the
marks, which
be
to
exact relative position, to continue or
its
repeat the other portion of the design, which has been previously
This method,
pounced. a more
pattern
correct
if followed
when
had been drawn, and pounced
at
In drawing a design on paper, quarters saved,
instead of repeating the ,
two or four
in
exactly
one
of
division
each
to
when
the two
other
:
the
several portions
and
pierced.
— This
if
halves, or four
much
being
pattern
at
opening the paper, a more correct design been produced, than
whole design
time
is
drawing, the paper be folded
the paper thus doubled,
through the
pierced
if the
time.*
taking care that the folded
portions,
parallel
than
the same
intended to correspond,
are
corners,
or
if,
with adroitness, will produce
finished,
edges
be
drawn
on
the
holes
are
the
same
time.
will
to
be
On
be found to have
each portion had been separately drawn
mode, when the design
will
admit of
it,
may
be advantageously adopted, even where the paper would require to be doubled six
or eight times, provided care be taken to keep
the
exactly folded.
MM. for
Revol and Regondet obtained a
method of pouncing and tracing
a
some notice craie,
la
une
:
—
ou
“ Elle
la
consiste
chaux
poudre resineuse
comme *
parts
several
a
1’
ordinaire,
This process
is
puis
similar
paper hangings, &c. where
patterns,
a remplacer
vive dont on se tres
to
it is
fine.
on that
la
On fixe
employed
“ Brevet
la
d’ Invention’
which
deserves
poudre de charbon,
servait
autrefois,
ponce avec cette
par
poudre
promptement, en passant for
block-printing for
requisite to repeat the
the different parts of the pattern with various colours.
same
calicoes,
pattern, or to print
DRAWING PATTERNS. au-dessus d’un brasier peu
l’etoffe
un
chaud a repasser sur
fer
papier
Cette
blanc.
ou bien en promenant
ardent,
cette
87
recouverte
etoffe
methode, d’un usage
derniere
favantage de produire un dessin correct sur
que
terns
de
dessin
ce
fixer
sur
conqoit aisement que la cbaleur fond la resine, que
au
que par consequent
tissu, et
1’
celle-ci
que dans
qu’il
en
que
la
ne s’enleveraient que
qui
For embroidering paper,
may
admit
to
gum
There
it
prevent
to
drawn the
les
im-
est
ailleurs
Elies pensent
la cbaleur, des tacbes
tacbes resineuses ordinaires.”
of
its
easiest
when
it
is
on
sufficiently
being seen, as in muslins, cambric,
and most delicate way of following too thick, the pattern
is
may
with indigo, mixed with a sufficient quantity of its
better, as
is
comme
but where the material
;
be drawn upon
il
in satin-stitch, the pattern, traced in black
This seems the
the design
par faction de
be tacked under the material,
transparent
& c.
broderie doit recouvrir.
resulterait,
On
attache
dessin est solidement imprime.
le
repandre de cette poudre sur f etoffe
de
les endroits
avec raison
s’
a
me me
etoffe.
Les personnes soigneuses comprendront aussi combien portant d’e viter
sur,
le papier, en
irrevocablem.ent
d’un
alors
plus
“
running.”
The
lighter
these
lines
are
they are the more easily effaced by washing.*
great difficulty in changing the proportions of patterns:
and elegant
much admired when small, frequently lose all taste when enlarged and on the contrary, bold designs are quite lost when reduced. This should be
pointed out
by
those
which
are
their delicacy
and
;
the designer,
who
should both consult and direct
the taste and judgment of the embroideress.
*
The
following preparation
spoonful of
spirits
is
frequently used for this
of wine, in which are
dissolved sugar
purpose.
A
table
and gum arabic in
much as would lay upon a sixpence, coloured with indigo. For common purposes, however, a cake of water colour indigo will be found
equal parts, about as
equally useful.
DRAWING PATTERNS.
88
With
respect to the various materials
for embroidery
need be
little
apt to follow the
from
as
the
dency
to
move;
adjust
it
properly
The
great
the
richer
of
elasticity
and
velvet
care,
therefore,
firmly
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
in
pile
is
upon;
in fact,
applicable to cloth.
make
will alone
its
is
A
with
in
order to weights.
being closer and shorter
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
can be pounced, and drawn
it
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
care,
a ten-
the
required,
place,
none but the best velvets
either for embroidery or braiding:
greatest
it
on
as
lines,
the paper pattern has
pile,
its
the facility with which
greater
sur-
its
threads of the warp, thus rendering
with gracefulness the curved
In pouncing, velvet requires the
other materials.
to be traced,
draw upon; the pencil being
difficult to
straight
easy to produce
less
is
from the glossy smoothness of
Satin,
said.
perhaps the most
face, is
used as the groundwork
and braiding, on which the design
this
should ever be used
latter
remark
is
equally
good knowledge of drawing, and experience,
a proficient in this
department,
may appear to be merely mechanical. To many persons, especially the artist, some of cesses may appear tedious and unnecessary, as we
which,
at
first
sight
the above pro-
frequently see
some of the most beautiful patterns drawn on the materials once,
without any previous
Such patterns
* Patterns
may
similar to that
and
difficu
t.
are
at
design or pouncing being required.
of course the most valuable, as being unique.*
also be
drawn on
paper,
and the
adopted for stencilling plates, but the
lines
cut out in a
process
is
way
both tedious
CHAPTER
XI.
Implements.
“ Implements of ev’ry
And
formed
for various
size,
use.”
Cowper.
NEEDLES.
HEN,
as has been justly observed,
we consider
the simplicity, smallness, and moderate price of
a needle,
we should
that this
little
naturally be led to suppose
instrument requires neither
labour nor Complicated manipulations in struction needle,
;
however inconsiderable
we cannot
sale,
* It
would be tedious
fail
its
size,
passes
through the hand
through
wire which
is to
it is
ready
to be surprised.*
manufacture of these remarks on one or two
to enter into the minutiae of the
small but important implements, processes
con-
but when we learn that every sewing
pf one hundred and twenty different operatives, before for
much
its
but a few cursory
which they pass may not be uninteresting.
When
the
form the needle has been pointed, and flattened at the other
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; IMPLEMENTS.
90
There are a great variety of for
ployed
for
names of tapestry
numbers fourteen
and
sharps,
needles,
blunt at the point,
is
made of various
is
it
These are
needlework.
decorative
tapestry needle
needles, but
mention those which are more
us only to
those
sizes ;
to twenty-five,
scription of canvas
and
They
work.
necessary
immediately
em-
known by
the
The
long-eyed sharps.
w ith T
a long oval eye
common
in
will be
applicable
are
it ;
from
being
use,
every de-
to
should be manufactured of the
This is commonly and applying the point of a small punch to it, pierces the eye with a smart tap of a hammer, applied first upon the one side, and then exactly opposite upon the other Another child trims the eyes, which he does by laying the needle upon a lump of lead, and driving a proper punch through Its eye; then laying it sideways upon a flat piece of steel, with the punch sticking in it, he gives it a tap on each side with his hammer, and causes the eye to take the shape of the punch. The operation of piercing and trimming the eyes is performed by clever children with astonishing rapidity, who become so dexterous as to fierce ivith a, punch a human hair and thread it with another for the amusement of visitors. The next operation makes the grove at the eye, and rounds the head; they are then tempered, polished, &c. and thrown as a confused heap, into a somewhat concave iron tray, in which, by a few dexterous jerks of the workmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extremity to form the head,
it
is
handed
to the piercer.
a child, who, laying the head upon a block of
steel,
,
,
They
hand, they are made to arrange themselves parallel to each other. afterwards sorted and divided
into quantities
for
are
packing in blue papers, by
of one hundred needles, and so measuring them out without the trouble of counting them individually.
putting into a small balance the equivalent weight
It is
easy to distinguish good English needles from spurious imitations;
cause the former have their axis coincident with their points, which
is
be-
readily
observed by turning them round between the finger and thumb.
The construction of a needle requires, as already stated, about one hundred and twenty operations; but they are rapidly and uninterruptedly successive: a child can trim the eyes of four thousand needles per hour.
When we
survey a manufacture of this kind,
of great mechanical it;
refinement.
to multiply operations
clusively
to
productive.
one
is
process,
In thq
to simplify is
we cannot
fail
to
observe,
which the needles undergo, bears the impress
that the diversity of operations
to
Abridged from Dr. Ure
render .
arts,
to divide
them; and
to
him much
labour
is
to
abridge
attach an operative ex-
more
economical
and
IMPLEMENTS. finest
but they are occasionally made of gold or
steel,
warm
use in
91
The same kind
climates.
employed
*diarp point, is
of needle
for chenille embroidery,
silver
for
made with a
and
working
for
>n cloth through canvas.
The
There
manship.
termed blunts latter
common sewing
sharps are the
they are made of
are
;
various
a similar kind
also
is
the
employed by
principally
shoe binder, and workers in
numbering from one
easier
to
—the
wool
The
— those
for
it
steel
;
and work-
of needle, but shorter, general purposes, the
tailor,
They
less
passes through the work.
it
having a long eye, are used
as to
all
the
leather.
fifteen.
round
diamond-shaped or
useful for
are
first
round eyes
needles, with
both
qualities,
truer cuts
the
the
the
glover,
made
are
eye
in
the sizes
—whether and the
thread,
Needles called long-eyed sharps,
embroidery both in
silk
and
to
ten.
most generally employed, number from one
Darners are a similar kind of needle, but much longer than the former
they are mostly applicable to domestic purposes. grec,
familiarly
*
Aiguilles
;
TY
a
The
used
are
known
in
France
for
embroidering,
but
those
Whitechapel needles, are better.*
as
needles used in ancient times, were principally of bronze
:
Pliny
Sewing and netting needles have been found both at Herculaneum and Pompeii and several are preserved in the Hamiltonian On the two marbles brought from the neighbourhood and other collections. of Amyclse in Lyconia, by the earl of Aberdeen, are represented, among other requisites for the toilet of a Grecian female, combs, pins, needles, and bodkins. See Walpole’s Memoirs relating to Europeom ant Asiatic Turkey, p. 244. It is supposed that needles, similar to those now employed, were originally made in mentions them of
this
metal.
;
Spain, from the circumstance of their having been called Spanish needles first
into this country
from Germany.
Needles were
first
the year 1565, by Elias Crawse or Krause, a German,
The
when
used in England, although the art of manufacturing them was brought
reputation long enjoyed
locality
in
London where
needle manufactories are
by Whitechapel
the manufacture
now
at
made
who
in
England about London.
settled in
needles, points out the particular
was
carried on.
The
principal
Redditch in Worcestershire, at Hathersage in
—— IMPLEMENTS.
92
KNITTING NEEDLES, OR Knitting needles are manufactured of
PINS.
ivory, boxwood,
steel,
and
whalebone, in sizes varying from that of a fine sewing needle to three-quarters of
Some have work from pointed.
very small ivory
a
slipping
The
off,
vary from 6
or gauge
but as
;
ball at
employ the same gauge,
end to
one
lengths.
prevent
the
but with this exception, they are always
of steel knitting needles
size
numbers, which filiere
an inch in diameter, and of proportionate
all
to
25,
writers
by
designated
is
their
determined by a
and are
on knitting do nqt appear
to
frequently leads to error, and will con-
it
tinue to do so until there be some general standard.
NETTING NEEDLES AND MESHES. For netting
purses,
and other small
steel
articles,
needles and
meshes are always employed, and those of the highest to •
The mesh
be preferred.
of the netting, suitable
diameter, and like
gauge.
The
two
the
is
each end,
of
steel
so
of
look this
size
any
wire of
by a
the knitting-needles, measured
of flattened wire, and cut into a fork of
point,
which
by passing that the
will
the
it
allow
alternately
turns of
needle,
and
Derbyshire, and in Birmingham and seems to have been formerly famous
may go
which determines the piece
of
Bush Lane needle
its
for
be
the
it
The
foremost through a small loop.
the needle,
length
pin,
each end, the ends of the prongs meeting
blunt
a
either end
upon at
needle
prongs at
forming
or
a plain polished
is
finish are
being silk
and
passed
is
wound
between the prongs
silk
may
kept on
neighbourhood.
the
Bush Lane
very small needles
in a bottle of hay.”
be parallel to
by
it
:
— “ And
in
forks.
London
now
Lenton's Leas
,
they
c. 9.
;
IMPLEMENTS.
The
excellence
of
the needle
93
depends upon the points of
the
prongs being true and close together.
CROCHET AND TAMBOUR NEEDLES.
Crochet needles, sometimes called Shepherds' hooks of
silk
,
made
are
a hook at one
end
shape to the barb of a fish-hook, by which the wool
similar in
or
They have
ivory, or box-wood.
steel,
drawn through the
and
caught
is
struments are to be procured of various
These
work.
in-
but their excellence
sizes,
depends more on the proper fashioning of the hook, than on the
which
of
material
and those used these
are
they
frequently
sewing needle, that they
The
The
manufactured.
may is
or
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
by
made with
They
others, entirely of steel.
are generally about four or five inches in length. sizes,
sized
be fixed into a handle, which,
ebony handle,
made of various
sizes,
steel
capable of holding needles of various
larger steel crochet needles, are sometimes
a fixed ivory
also
smaller
made of the length of an ordinary
means of a small screw, sizes.
are
tambour work, must necessarily be of
for
Ivory needles are
and with differently formed hooks, accord-
ing to the dimensions of the thread
they
are intended to carry.
F1LIERE.
A
filiere
round
its
or gauge,
is
a steel instrument with graduated notches
edges, distinguished
by
wire-drawers for ascertaining the plied in a similar manner, for
and knitting needles; thus, these needles, they
are
different figures. sizes
of their
It is
wires,
used by
and
.is
ap-
measuring the diameters of netting
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;when
speaking of the relative size of
frequently designated
by
their correspond-
IMPLEMENTS.
94 ing numbers;
but, as has
been before observed, there appears to
be no universal standard.
EMBROIDERY FRAMES.
We
do not acknowledge as an embroidery frame, any of a
simple construction than the
of two
side
the
bars
varying
sizes,
they
may
the greatest magnitude, ficient to
from
are useful for
when
their
size
.
working satin or
velvet
flat
or,
trestles.
where
it
is
yards in
for
of
pieces
suf-
Large frames
does not admit of
the
piece of
whereon two upright pieces are fixed at
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
common mahogany,
knee, or table frame, has a
three
and weight become
This description of frame
which can be adjusted
to
very small pieces of
for
be held in the hand,
being formed principally of
stand,
four inches
keep them steady, placed upon
being rolled
These are made
in their right position.
and are proportionably useful
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;when
The
regular distances for
at
of various
work,
less
composed
receiving
pegs to keep the
length,
frame,
four-piece
which the webbings are attached, and two
bars, to
with holes pierced
laths,
or
flat
least
expensive,
cedar, or beech.
wood forming the
to support the
frame,
any angle required, by means of thumb-
screws attached to the joints.
These frames
are
generally
made
;
â&#x20AC;˘
IMPLEMENTS. from
eight
to
twenty-seven
adapted for work of
on
connected
ground,
the
webbing
the
by
rolling
by
together
the frame, which
a
round the
bars.
yard
or
on the top in
They vary
and a quarter.
feet
bar
cross
a
fixed
is
same manner as that already described.
from twenty inches to
they are
;*
and of any
limits,
of two upright pieces with
consists
these support
stretcher
the
will not injure
it
The standing frame placed
in
widths within these
all
moderate length, where
inches
95
in size,
Frames
of this
kind are sometimes made with toothed wheels and other contri-
work without taking
vances, for rolling and unrolling the
but they are apt to get
and
suitable
less
struction.
of
the
for
ladies,
order,
and
than
those
of a more
Both standing and
finest
and
most
more
of
out
table
expensive
are
it
out;
clumsy
simple
con-
frames are frequently made woods,
when they may be
rendered most elegant pieces of furniture for the boudoir. upright frames have sometimes baskets attached at either
The side,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
at once convenient and ornamental.
*
Embroidery frames are always measured by the length of
their
wctbings
;
96
IMPLEMENTS. Embroidery frames require
together
moderate
may
they
those
size,
to be well made, that
when screwed
When
be perfectly firm and square.
which
in
the
or
side-laths
of a
cross-bars
are
formed into screws are preferable, as they can be more readily,
and with greater
means of the that the fixed,
is
adjusted
precision,
The
nuts.
cross-bars,
greatest
as well
bending when the work
in
stout
prevent
to
width,
good frame
a
by is,
on which the webbing
as the rollers
should be sufficiently
required
the
to
essential
its
twisting or
tightly stretched in it*
is
TAMBOUR FRAMES. Tambour
frames,
whereon
parchment of a drum
ployed, although formerly fashion.
They
the
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;whence
name
is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
stretched
are
the
like
now seldom em-
much used when tambour-work was
are formed of two hoops, covered
baize, the material being stretched
place
by
it
however, impossible to secure
is,
material
their
the outer hoop, tightened
on the
inner,
the
with cloth or
and kept in
its
by means of a thumb screw it
as firmly as in the
square
embroidery frame.
SCREW EMBROIDERY FRAMES. These are sometimes made
They
the hand. side bars in
the
When
the
turning the side bars
*
When
work it
of a very large
found useful.
rollers
with webbings, and two
By
having an inside screw
form of screws.
turned in the holes of the quired.
for small pieces of work, to hold in
two
consist of
rollers,
may size,
neither
nuts nor pegs are
attached to the webbings,
is
be sufficiently stretched.
re-
by merely
The
a moveable centre bar or stretcher
con-
may
be
IMPLEMENTS. struction
but
it
of this frame
similar
is
to
97
that
has no recommendation except in
its
of a
purse stretcher,
neat appearance.
d’oyley and shawl frames.
These are made square or triangular, large or
small, in accord-
ance with the purpose for which they are intended. are
fixed
at
round which
equal distances in a slanting direction the wool
or other articles,
Qotton employed in
or
to be
is
Brass pins
on the
top,
making DOyleys,
wound.
MESHES FOR RAISED WORK. Meshes
for
raised
from a sixteenth
to
work
— generally
of bone or boxwood
two or three inches in width, and larger
occasionally to be found.
They
side,
they also ;
rendering the work both tight and firm,
resistance they offer.
on one
sizes are
are used for regulating the length
of the looped stitches, which are afterwards to be divided greatly assist in
—vary
Meshes are
sometimes made with
by the
a groove
as a guide for the scissors to pass along in the cut-
ting of the loops.
For the more highly steel
finished
descriptions of
raised
work, a
mesh, with a cutting edge on one part similar to the an8
IMPLEMENTS.
98 nexed engraving,
will be
be fully described
found the most convenient.
when speaking
Its
use will
of raised embroidery.
PURSE STRETCHERS.
The above engraving machine
than any
we
convey a better idea of
will
are
capable
of giving.
It
this
used
is
little
for
stretching knitted, netted, and crochet purses.
The
purse,
when
should be sewn up cylinder,
finished, before at
the
the ends are
drawn
as represented above;
it
should then be slightly damped,
and the screws tightened, taking care not to strain
By
this
their
together,
mouth, and passed over the wooden
it
too much.
simple process, the stitches become more firmly fixed in
relative
positions,
and the purse assumes, and
afterwards
retains, its proper shape.
PURSE MOULDS.
The above engraving wood or
ivory,
represents two kinds of purse
on which short
purses
are
worked.
moulds, cf
The one
IMPLEMENTS Turc
called a moule
of
by
,
has small brass pins fixed round the edges
A
largest circumference.
its
fixing the silk
separately
When first
others,
this first
again round the peg with needle pass the
may
purse
by a loop over one
round each of the
hand.
right
99
row
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
stitch
wind the
and with a
after
The work
When
all
row, until as
the
the
proceeds
it
silk
is
made, and so on,
purse becomes of a sufficient length. falls
into
the hollow of
the
mould.
rows are finished, draw the bottom together,
as each loop is taken off the pegs at the top, pass a silk
and,
through
prevent their unravelling, and strengthen
them, which will
purse for sewing on
the snap.
A
the
purse of this description will
take a large sized skein of netting silk:
with a snap or a
once
point or
steel
and continue the
over the second,
same over each peg as each successive stitch
row
being held in the
silk
done,
is
the loop,
be made on this mould
peg, and twisting the silk
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
it
may
be mounted either
(Liable .*
On the other mould or cup, may be made, either with two
a very
pretty
coloured
silks,
bourse
or silk
en feston
and
gold.
Since the introduction of crochet, however, these moulds have not
been
much
used.
CHAIN MOULD.
The above
small
mould
is for
making neck
* Diables, or purse bars, are wires of steel, gold, or
which a ring is passed attached by means of a 'chain.
at the ends, over
ring
is
to secure the
chains.
silver,
These are
with ornaments
mouth of the purse the j
1
IMPLEMENTS.
00
to
be
made with middle-sizbd
manner
as that described for
netting
silk,
exactly in
a purse on the moule
the
Turc
same
.
FORK FOR A CHAIN.
The above
represents
chains, which,
if
an ivory fork, used for making
done with very
small French hair chains.
watch guard
may
be made.
fine
silk,
perfectly imitate
neck the
If a coarse silk be used, a very strong
CHAPTER
XII.
-framing ttJork.
“ All sortes of workes, almost that can be nam’d
Here
are directions
how they may be
fram’d.”
John Taylor.
REAT
care and nicety are required in dressing
much
a frame ease in
its
of the success of the work, and
execution, depend on this preliminary
arrangement, which, from
it
not seeming of im-
portance. is but too generally neglected.
FRAMING CANVAS. Having
ascertained,
by counting
or
by measurement,
that
the
canvas corresponds with the size of the design, in order that the latter,
when worked, may be
of the dimensions desired, turn
the canvas about half an inch, and it
by a thread
eight
times
to the
having herring-boned
webbing of the frame.
doubled, should be
Soft paper,
smoothly placed
if the length of the canvas render
it
down
it,
sew
six or
round the bars,
necessary that
it
should be
FRAMING WORK.
102
that part only being
rolled,
the
work
is
should be
gradually
extended in the frame, on which
left
By
commenced.
to be
stretched,
means of the nuts or
and
the selvedges
with fine twine,
canvas
strained perfectly tight and even *
is
tightening
It is
it
braced to the
them by degrees
side-bars
pegs,
until the
of great advan-
tage that a small length only should be stretched at one time, a3 the
work becomes
exposed, and the needle-woman
less
to reach over her frame,
A
short
winding
when
the
if
as
the
at
proceeds, and if this be
be found either
most
The working from than painting,
it
this
a general rule,
lower part,
one
subject be
as being the
upwards in
will rarely
it
drawn
or un-
finished.
It is advisable,
commenced
not obliged
change the position of the work,
gradually round the bars as it
is
position both fatiguing and inelegant.
time will suffice to it
carefully managed,
even,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a
where a sky
delicate,
that canvas
on the is
left
to be
should always
work should be
hand, more especially
introduced
Berlin patterns being rather more
will be
5
which,
remain until the
found that the stitch
is
last.
methodical
truer if
worked
manner.
FRAMING CLOTH AND CANVAS. In framing these two materials together for working on cloth in cross or tent stitch over canvas, if the article for
which the work
intended does not require the cloth to exceed in size the breadth
is
of the canvas, the cloth should bo cut half an inch smaller each
way,
*
as,
The
when
framed,
it will
stretch
advantage of the side bars of
a
much more than
the canvas.
frame being made with a screw
is
here evident, as the canvas can be finally tightened by giving each nut a turn or two.
FRAMING WORK.
The
must be turned down
cloth
two selvedges of the canvas
edges, and
the
at
103 tacked to the
and the raw edges of the canvas *
;
and cloth turned down together, and then tacked.
work render
sions of the
found
be
will
from
that,*
necessary that
it
the turnings
in
If the dimen-
should be
it
acquired a greater thickness in these parts, and
put wadding or
site therefore to
may
and canvas
the cloth
to execute,
when
as
will be requi-
it
By
in.
means,
this
be evenly stretched together without
and the work
injury to the former;
it
has
it
paper on the bars, to thicken
soft
with the turnings
the other parts equally
rolled,
the side,
at
the canvas
be so troublesome
will not
only stretched over the cloth
is
after it is framed.
When
squares
large
worked, such as will
be found better
and tack
frame,
the
to
but
if for
;
drawn
out, the
Here a
imagine,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the As
needle.
will
terials
to
round the
it,
If for embroidery, this will be found
appear to
arise,
which the
formidable as
work of and
the
we should
at
have
of
its
should be
may
glossy the
appearance,
little
attention to
The
and
render
it
that
it
is
softer
better to cut the
the
ma-
holland should be
white round-thread French canvas,
again observe
to
admitting the
very thin and glazed; the cloth properly damped, so as it
pass,
led
kind we have mentioned are
be worked.
to
to
be
first
occupy time in their execution,
be worth while to pay some
on which they are
cloth.
from the extra thickness
needle will
firm tension of the holland readily pieces of
it
canvas work, where the threads are to be
of considerable magnitude, it
and firmly
cloth evenly
may
not so
be
of thin holland in the
canvas must also be evenly tacked over the
difficulty
is
a piece
stretch
of the materials through
but this
required to
are
a table-cover or an ottoman,
of
part intended to be worked. sufficient
of cloth
lengths
or
centre
the
to deprive
the ;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;and
canvas here
we
threads off than
FRAMING WORK.
104
draw them
to
Admitting there
out.
frame, yet the
cloth
more or
is
sewn by any part except the ever,
a
hold
a
firm frame
By
edges.
yard wide
of a
no objection
is
the above
rolled,
or
how-
plan,
be found sufficient
will
two yards square, or even
piece of cloth
large
to a
by being
spoiled
less
to
yards in
five
length.
FRAMING VELVET. sewn
Velvets must be
selvedges, and, if less in material,
the
;
to prevent
that
pile
The
position.
sides
being more
the velvet to
it
it
When is
with
be covered
to
by the
managed when
easily
in
this
must be carefully hemmed before bracing,
unravelling.
of the frame,
tended
the webbings of the frame
should be framed in the same direction as the selv-
it
edges run
to
width than the original breadth of the
better
length of the velvet exceeds
the to
small stitches in
by
the
thin holland, and tack
stretch
work;
any of those parts
the
may
velvet
in-
then
lie
uninjured on the frame, and at any length of yards worked in a frame, three
feet
wide,
substituting
fresh
holland
work
the
as
proceeds. If the velvet is to be embroidered in silk, or chenille,
generally speaking, require if
any other material
orate, the velvet
also
make
instances,
the
it
it
velvet,
must be strengthened with
firmer and
will
by
to
very
but
;
elab-
which
holland,
work upon.
will
In these
be found advisable to frame the holland, and
carefully pasting
tended to be worked.
and
more pleasant
is
will not,
back
the
at
work
gold or silver are to be employed, or the
it
The
or tacking
velvet
is
to
it
in
those
be laid on
the
slightly pressed, but so as to avoid injury to the pile.
taking embroidery out of the frame, a
little
paste
fix
parts inholland,
Before
made with
size,
should be slightly rubbed with the finger over the back of the work.
â&#x20AC;˘
FRAMING WORK.
FRAMING SATIN, Satin, silk,
cloth,
and merino,
SILK,
may
LEATHER, ETC. be framed in the same
way
]
however, necessary to use holland when the work is the simple sprigging of a waistcoat, the embroidering of a bag, handit
is
not,
screen, or other
small article.
Crepe should be
laid
on
clear book-muslin,
frame with the same attention embroidery
is
done,
that cloth
the muslin should
be
and sewn into the
requires.
When
the
cut close away.
Morocco and chamois
leather, and kid, should be carefully and on a piece of thin white holland, and tacked down the holland having been previously framed in the usual way, but
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
flatly laid
there should not be
any tension on the
The above engraving
leather.
accurately represents
an embroidery frame
with a piece of work properly stretched and braced in
it.
;
CHAPTER
XIII
Stitcijcs.
gi
Fine Ferne-stitch Brave Bred-stitch
The The
,
Finny-stitch , New-stitch
,
Fisher-stitch , Irish-stitch ,
}
and and
Chain-stitch,
Queen-stitch ,
and Mowse-stitch smarting Whip-stitch, Back-stitch and the crosse-stitch , All these are good, and these we must allow, And these are everywhere in practice now. Spanish-stitch
Rosemary-stitch
,
,
,
,
John Taylor.
IYE work
stiches are, in viz.
;
employed
general,
and
tent,
cross
tapestry stitch, Irish, and
German
canvas
for
Gobelin
stitch,
or
Various
stitch.
others might be enumerated, but they are
all
more
or less modifications or combinations of the above. a difficult task
It is
clearly
to
describe these different stitches,
and their application in the various
There
needlework.
doing
even
the
observed that rectness,
to
it
is,
doubtless, a
As
most simple. is
requisite, for
departments
a
of
decorative
and a wrong way of
right
preliminary,
it
must
working with comfort and
have the canvas the right way
which
is, it
be cor-
should
be so framed that the selvedges are placed on the sides where is
braced.
The commencement
of almost
all
by bringing the needle up from beneath on
stitches
the
right,
should
it
be
and pass-
;
STITCHES. ing
down again on
It
but
working
in
up on
needle
up again on
Too
stitches
all
cross
the
stitch ,
the right, and
by
means
this
stitch,
the
left,
be
to
these
the needle
down on
in the
left-hand corner.
the
paid
selves to each other
wool or
silk
acquired
by
a
little
the
and
right,
accommodate them-
The
in this position.
than
might at
much
pearance and durability
with the utmost nicety.
In
with a true
practice
accomplish
first
simplicity
its
When
it.
greater
care
be imagined,
as
work depend on
fact, it is
and even
according as
Regularity in this stitch will ;
may
of the
ground
;
bottom of the work,
single, double, or treble,
executed in tent stitch,
necessary
rules
left.
better
when worked upwards
that the youngest child to be
at the
stitches
the size of the canvas demands.
be
simple
should properly cover the threads of the canvas
they should be used either
easily
then
right,
brought up from the
is
The
the
to finish the stitch.
â&#x20AC;&#x2122;STITCH.
commencing
left,
down on
it
down on
TENT
In tent
should be done by bringing the
it
always be to the
will
passed
be considered as holding
which do not require crossing;
and passing
left,
great attention cannot
wool,
may
the left: this
good with regard to
107
more than
stitch
both its
is
be found
will
difficult
to
such
is
grounding
the
ap-
being done to
work a
copy a pattern
however elaborate.
Grounding to right, if
care
rectly
is
more
easily
and from right be taken
done,
worked
in
straight
to left alternately,
rows from
than in diagonal
to reverse the stitch in each row.
the back
When
left
lines,
cor-
of the work should present an uniform ap-
108
STITCHES.
in fastening on
or off should be
wool through at a it
with the succeeding
avoided
The
stitches.
in needlefuls of different lengths
the face
;
and cover
fastening on from the same
by using
the wool or silk
otherwise a liney appearance,
be impossible to get rid
will
it
draw the
best to
is
it
;
distance from the exact spot,
little
place in each row must be obviated
which
Knots
each row of stitches resembling a twisted cord.
pearance,
of,
will be
produced on
of the work.
CROSS STITCH.
Cross stitch each way. needle
worked over two threads in a diagonal direction
is
It is
up on
the
a double stitch, and made, left,
forms half the stitch
up again on
stitched
the
before
Grounding backwards
it ;
in
stitch
work
cross
passing
by bringing the
first
down on
the
right,
be
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a
stitch
it
down on
more even, than
method not should
be
if
it
unfrequently
done
in
and forwards, observing the same rules
the stitches as in tent stitch.
the
left.
be finished before another
to
will
crossing,
it
which
then crossed, by bringing the needle
is
the right, and
would advise each menced, as
and putting
is
were half practised.
alternate for
We com-
rows
reversing
,
STITCHES.
This
worked over two threads of the canvas in height,
stitch is
and one in breadth stitches
109
but when Berlin patterns are copied, two
;
must be made
in width
each square of the
for
which bear exactly the same proportion cross
On
stitch.
ferior
coarse canvas, Gobelin stitch
to either tent or
canvas, where
appearance pattern,
may
suitable
for
it
of
cross
stitch.
Figures,
but
may
in-
fine
kind
count
of
more
certainly
for
or
of a closer
every
it is
on
best
is
stitch,
and
drawn on the canvas, than
patterns
canvas, to produce a very
work.
be mixed with gold braid on
rich brocaded
appearance.
The gold
should be cut in the requisite lengths, and fastened to the
canvas for
stitch,
decidedly
is
effect
flowers,
be worked in Gobelin
Either tapestry or cross stitch
braid
Its
has the advantage over cross
shading.
design,
as one either of tent
and a Berlin pattern of plain damask taken
at either end,
the
The ground
design.
is
worked
to be
one
tapestry stitch
over the
damask part of
the pattern in the gold.
form pretty contrasts
;
braid, in
rich
either in cross
colour,
leaving
or the
Blue, brown, or marron
.
and, for wedding presents, white and gold.
IRISH STITCH.
For grounding, place
of tent
execution.
It
Irish
stitch
may
or
cross
is
the best stitch
stitch,
as
it
for
frequently takes
much
chenille
be used less
in
time in
the its
work on canvas
j
110
and
STITCHES. gems, and even flowers,
scrolls,
The above engraving stitch than
German
any
we should be
description
stitch is exclusively a
done than either tent or cross stitch,
may
may be prettily worked in it. much better idea of this
convey a
will
able to give.
grounding
stitch,
Patterns
stitch.
German
be prettily grounded in
engraving accurately represents this
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
it
is
quicker
worked in
stitch.
cross
The above
stitch.
IMITATION OF LACE.
Numerous duced, and
patterns
in imitation of lace have been
where judgment
used
is
they certainly have some merit for small articles
;
good
claim to
stitches
of
it
taste.
fine silk, the
thicker silk or
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
lately intro-
application of them,
best are principally adapted
but lace and canvas work being somewhat at
variance with each other,
much
;
in the
must be doubtful whether they have
The ground
pattern on
it
is
worked in various
being in^ cross stitch
of
wooL VARIOUS FANCY STITCHES.
These, as stitches
we
already
before
stated, are
mentioned, and
it
but modifications of the will
fiv*
be only necessary for u
STITCHES. to
name the
ill
principal recognised old English stitches;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
to attempt
They
a description of them, would be alike tedious and Useless. are,
Feme
stitch,
feather
stitch,
stitch, braid stitch, plait stitcli, stitch,
wove
brick
stitch,
Irish
stitch,
Venetian
diamond
reverse
stitch,
but this must
plaid stitch
basket
cross
stitch, stitch,
stitch,
Peruvian
stitch,
mat square
mosaic
stitch,
star
flat
stitch,
Hungary
stitch,
Innumerable are the stitches
suffice.
which are to be met with on the samplers worked in
bead
stitch,
for
sale,
both
England and Germany, and numberless the names applied
them, and
new names
it
is
as easy to invent
for them.
new
stitches, as it is
to
to invent
,
CHAPTER XIV ©mbroib^rg.
“Whether *Twas
her needle play’d the pencil’s part,
plain from Pallas she deriv’d her art.”
Ovid. *
xi:
a curious brede of needle-work, one colour
and another .
rises so insensibly, that
we
falls
away
in such
degrees,
see the variety without being able to
distinguish the total vanishing of the one from the
first
appearance of the other w
Addison.
E
are indebted
luxury
to the
ar^l
magnificence
of the nations of the East, for the invention of
embroidery,
termed claiming
more modern latter art;
as
she
masters,
it
the
art
mother
has not inaptly been
that
of
priority
painting,
by many
its
possible, the
has been
many
productions of the
assisted
by some
of
discovery
centuries.
has been called the humble
sister
and the aim of the needlewoman has been
closely as
which
times,
—an
the
In
of the
to imitate,
pencil, a labour in
the
most
celebrated
of whose chef-d’ oeuvres have been executed for the
express purpose of being copied in needlework or tapestry.
—
The Greeks gave *
:
he
lienee,
the honour of the invention of embroidery to
by Pliny says,
it
has been
Romans
the
the Trojan
their skill in this art
:
assigned
called
“ vestes
and embroidered garments, of Sidon, before
;
m
EMBROIDERY.
Minerva
—
—
—
war,
the
to
“
embroiderers
Phrygionice .”f
Phrygians
Phrygiones
The women
were especially celebrated
and Homer mentions Helen
as
for
being en-
gaged in embroidering the combats of the Greeks and Trojans: “
An
ample web magnificent she wove, Inwrought with num’rous conflicts for her sake, Beneath the hand of Mars endured by Greeks.”
Andromache
also
“ She in her chamber at the palace top,
A
splendid texture wrought, on either side
All dazzling bright with flowers of various hues.’
* It
who a
possible that the story of Procne, daughter of Pandion, king of
is
informed her
veil, is
sister
but be this as
fabulous;
tends to prove the antiquity of the “ Pictas vestes t Lib. viii. c. 74.
Acu
Athens,
Philomela of her misfortunes by embroidering them on
may, the fable is of remote origin, and Vide Apollodorus lib. iii. c. 14. jam apud Homerum fuisse, unde triumphales it
art.
,
Phryges invenerunt, ideoque Phrygioniae appellataB sunt. rex: unde nomen Attalicis. Colores diversos pictures intexere Baoyion inaxime celebravit, et nomen imposuit.” have been tempted to give the original words of this author, as the terms “ pictas vestes,” and “ intexere,” have been variously translated. In the M-.~
natae.
Aurum
facere id
intexere
in
eadeni Asia invenit Attalus
We
iHechmi of Plautus
mantle
to
(act
ii.
sc. 3.)
be embroidered, says:
a young
woman,
“ Pallam illam ad
reconcinnetur, atque ut opera addantur, quae, volo.”
was embroidered,
is
desirous
of sending
her
Phrygionem ut deferas, ut That the cloth of Attalus
proved by a passage of Silius Ilalicus
(lib.
xiv. 661):
“ Q-useque Attalicis variata per artem Aulaeis scribuntur acu.”
And
from the following lines in Martial (lib. viii. ep. 28), Babylonian cloth was also ornamented with embroidery :
“ Non ego praetulerim Bnbvlonica picta superbe Tcxta, S^aiiiainia quae variantur acu.’ -
9
it
is
evident that the
EMBROIDERY.
114
The
among
of embroidery was greatly practised
art
Egyptians
even
the sails of
;
some of
the ancient
were wrought
their ships
with fanciful devices, representing the phoenix, flowers, and various In the time of Moses, Aholiab, the son of Ahisamach,
emblems.*
was celebrated
of Dan,
of the tribe
and as an embroiderer in
The
linen.f
as
in purple, in
blue,
curtains and ornaments of the
vestments of the
priests,
prophet
reproaching the
Ezekiel,
cunning workman,”
“ a
scarlet,
and in
The
were decorated with embroidery.
women
fine
Tabernacle, and the
of Israel with
having
abused the benefits of Providence, after mentioning their bracelets
and chains, crowns, divers
still
jewels farther
their
robes,
earrings,
and their
dyed and embroidered of
king of Pergamus,
Attalus,
colours. J
foreheads, and
their
for
names
is
said
by
Pliny,
have invented the art of embroidering with gold thread.
to
According thagoras,
Diodorus Siculus, §
to
embroidery, except to
courtesans:
informs us, that Tarquinius
monarch and senators by first
The term embroidery, historians, has
reference
needle ;
thus
as
Priscus,
but
its
disciple
of Pyof
who
first
||
distinguished the
and ornaments, was the
an embroidered garment.
employed in the writings of the ancient
to
all
kinds of ornamental work done
comprehending within
* Cloth, of embroidered linen, appears to for sails,
a
forbade the use
and Dionysius Halicarnassus
particular robes
Roman king who wore
with the
Zaleucus,
and a lawgiver of the Locrians,
and was bought by the Tyrians
its
meaning every
have been made in Egypt expressly for that
purpose (Ezekiel xxvii.
7),
use was confined to the pleasure boats of the nobles, or of the king
We are informed by Pliny (lib. xxx. c. 1), which Antony and Cleopatra went to the battle of Actiurn was distinguished from the rest of the fleet by its purple sails, which were the
himself; ordinary sails being white. that the ship in
peculiar privilege of the admiral's vessel. + Exod. yxv. 35. §
Lib.
iii.
c.
02.
X II
Ezekiel xvi. 13. Lib.
xii.
p.
299.
EMBROIDERY
115
some
description of decorative needlework, including tapestry, and
more
At
of weaving.
descriptions
relating
limited,
the present day,
one
to
kind of
the term
is
much
needlework only, which,
however, embraces an almost innumerable variety, both as to the materials
and the mode of using them.
employed,
In the ex
tended meaning of the term, therefore, nations and savage tribes
unknown
the
to
ancients,
may
honour of a
claim the
equally
most of them have a species of embroidery
similar invention, as
peculiarly their own.*
The Chinese have long been embroideries
indeed,
celebrated for the beauty of their
has been doubted whether the art was
jit
;
not originally brought into Europe from them, through the Persians.^
They
use floss and twisted
as
silks, also
The drawing
a fine thread. f
the bark of a tree spun into
of their embroideries
their flowers
copied from nature) they
(doubtless
even botanically correct;
and their works
admired for their remarkable freshness than bestowed upon them. is
is
sometimes
uncouth as that of their paintings, but in that of some of
nowhere
so
Success, as
frequently
as
in
style,
tedious years of study and self-denial.
written character,
the
finished
not
for the
more
to
be
extreme labour
gained by patient application,
exemplified
accomplishment of writing a good
many
are
are frequently
graces
is
The mere
China. the
result
only of
The beauty
of their
of the
composition,
the
* The word embroidery is derived from the French broderie which some deduce by transposition from bordeur beca lse they formerly only embroidered the )
borders of their
stuffs,
According
larii.
to
whence the Latins sometimes
Du
called embroiderers
Cange, they anciently wrote aurobrustus
,
for
limbus
embroidered
with gold, or brustus brodatus whence the French word broderie. + The fine muslins made at Manilla, with threaus spun from the pine-apple ,
plant, rial,
and afterwards so known.
are well
richly
and
delicately embroidered
with the same mate-
EMBROIDERY
116
excellence of their silk manufactures and embroidery, the wondera
many
of their porcelain, and
Chinese
no short
uses
(A
:
no compendious methods
resorts to
cuts,
abridging labour -jChe
for
other marvels in art and knowledge,
natural results of untiring industry and perseverance.
are the
not without ingenious resources to
is
accomplish an end, but his aim does not seem to be to save time.
We
indebted to Mr.
are
by
tised
She
art,
an elegant book,
as
assumed
is
patterns to
following
the
and three hundred In
art.
fact,
money.
It
figures, culled
the objects
priced fair
contains between two
well
so
is
has a cover of a
from the varied are
of the
needle-woman.
manual
little
of gold, and
spangles
or tseen,â&#x20AC;? he says,
use of the young
for the
of our
yellow, studded with
and
for
with choice subjects
filled
be poor, and hence the
about one penny
at
Lay
For twenty-two cash
Chinese.
the
â&#x20AC;&#x153; I purchased
graphic
Tradescant
account of the art of embroidery as at present prac-
interesting
stores of nature
and so nu-
selected
merous, that they might serve as illustrations to a small encyclo-
One acquainted with Chinese
paedia.
might deliver several lectures with
meadow, the grove, pages of
all
laid
with
the
adornments
who belongs
to the
of
her
task near the
earthenware, and while the
the
rich
lets in
dame
green window which
among
lattice,
The
which
the
red
industrious is
made of
both the light and the breath of heaven
leans
upon the
gaudy verandah, and gazes
sparkle
green
and
said to be
is
woman: while
gallery denotes the residence of a rich female. plies
house
the
,
an epithet for the dwelling of a poor
poor
The
museum, and the
The book
under contribution.
for the use of the person is
book before him.
the brook, the antiquaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
mythology,
garden, are
and natural history,
literature
this
vermil-tinted
carelessly at the
balusters
sunbeams
;
of
as they
the flowers, or wooes the soft breeze which agitates
the green roof of the Indian
fig-tree.
The
title-page presents
us
EMBROIDERY.
117
with a venerable man, in the weeds of
with this motto,
scroll
Over
L
Her
men
sleep.
tells
us of the needle-woman,
of Proverbs.
They were
of Mongha.
piece to
the emblems,
girls
a
work
low
stool,
a
last
and extended seat.
In the
height of their
the
Their faces wore a
forth.
which was owing, perhaps,
to
close
confinement and
unnatural position in which they were obliged to
the
chapter
the village
in
support was provided for the frame on which
embroidered was spread
be
sickly hue,
what Solomon
is
at this
upon
seated
night,’
while
alert,
he eulogizes in the
across another of twice
legs
way
this
whom
once saw two
I
by
candle goeth not out
wealth.’
;
of wakefulness, for these animals are on the ‘
hand
his
i:i
Heaven’s magistrate confers
head are bats disporting among the clouds
his
I suppose,
their
holdtr £
office,
.
a
finest spec imens of
embroidery
are, as far as
my
The
sit.
observation goes,
—
done by men, who stand while
at work a practice which these damsels could not imitate, as their feet were small. They were
but too genteel, in their parents’ idea, to do the drudgery
poor,
of the humble housewife,
and so their
feet
were bandaged and
kept from growing beyond the limits of gentility,
were
soon
not likely
to
a
attract
lover,
'Their looks
and hence they were
compelled to tease the sampler from the glistening dawn
Much
eve.
skill
a plaited skirt is
worn by
ladies,
attire.
In the
which, with
work before me,
little
A
given expressly for this purpose. girdle
of Chinese gentlemen,
kind of elaboration. ally
in
favour
my
partiality for
an
a rival for beauty as
Chinese, I think without
female
dewy
till
and labour are bestowed on the embroidery of
is
of
several patterns are
curious purse
also the
what
article
subject of
worn
much
in the
of this
Embroidery and figured textures were gener-
with
the
ancients,
thought worthy of a superior agency.
so
that
the
discovery
In the Old Testament
have two kinds, the maase rokem (opus phrygio7iicum) ,
12
:
in
was
we
which
— 118
EMBROIDERY.
the figures were inserted
by the
(
and the maase choseb
needle ;
,
ojms plumarium ), in which they were wrought in with the woof.
The Chinese
what
are fond of retaining
old,
is
and have preserved
both these arts in their highest state of perfection.”*
The “ et
ils
plumes
comme
sur
des
gaze,
joncs,
noyaux
d’animaux, des
d’oiseaux:
muslin
fruits
et
the
Aubin,
St.
ongle?
d’insectes,
secs,
couleurs
les
by
cotton
cuirasses
et
entremelent
ils
with
Besides these, says M. de
known.
well
emploient
griffes
on
embroideries
beautiful
Indians, are
des
surtout
harmonie
sans
sans gout: ce n’est qu’une espece de mosaique bizarre, qui
aucune
n’annonce
ne
intention, et
represente
aucun
objet
which we should not be tempted
a description of embroidery
to
imitate.
The embroidery autres
poils
des
fications
insinuent
by
practised
more simple and pleasing d’animaux
:
“ avec leurs
de plusieurs
et
peaux
ouvrages des
de
much
is
cheveux
represented assez bien
elles
agates herborisees,
dans leurs
Canadian women
the
they work
:
rami-
les
plantes
serpents
et
elles
:
coupees
par lanieres, des morceaux de fourrure patiemment raccordes.”
According
to
marriage,
their
M. de Busson, the negresses of Senegal, before embroider
the
senting figures, flowers, and
The
Georgians,
renowned materials,
gold
and
such as crepe and
thread in
a
manner
Turkish
the
on the
lightest
gauze, which
unequalled.
in
a
in gold passing
way we cannot
imitate.
*
,
women,
and most
are
delicate
embroideries
with
on
which they work
without fraying the thread,
According
The Chinese as
repre-
they ornament
Their
morocco leather have long been esteemed, on the smallest objects
beasts,
in every variety of colour.
particularly
for their embroideries
various
of
skins
animals,
they are.
to
M. Savary, they
E31BI10IDERY.
119
formerly often ornamented their embroidery with pieces of money,
of
value
the
which
they did
not
appear
to
understand
a
;
circumstance, however, which the Genoese
who had
merchants,
a
considerable trade in the Levant, turned greatly to their advantage,
and interesting coins and medals were frequently found
as valuable
in the old garments in which they sometimes trafficked.
Turks, the Greek
the
of the
tants
women
islands of
the Levant, are
embroidery, principally of gold and pia
on the Bosphorus excel in
work a
every petal of which
a most
known the
They
last
represent flowers
and preceding
siderable importance, the
same period, Milan ;
The
its
centuries,
admired for
when embroidery,
men and women, was an
At
and Venice
were
for
their
but the prices were so excessive, that, according to use was forbidden
by sumptuary
laws.
much
practised
at
the
other
present
country
;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
it
is
largest
some
present
day.
towns of
;
laws
were
which would
framed
specially
astonish
They were formed
into
by Etienne Boileau. Prevot de
for
their
the work-people a
Paris,
not
Embroiderers
day.
formed a great portion of the working population
tection,
1272,
celebrated
also
of
the
of embroidery seems to have attained a higher degree
art
however, so
the
an
as
of con-
object
Germans, but more particularly those
of perfection in France, than in any
formerly
but
needle, unfortunately
Vienna, disputed the palm of excellence with the French.
embroidery
in
and elaborateness.
of dress both for
Lamarre,
of
description
beautiful
country, cannot be sufficiently
in this
their extreme delicacy
In
their
of Thera-
worked with the utmost exactness.
is
These extraordinary productions of the
article
celebrated for
The women
can scarcely, however, be termed embroidery, being rather
it ;
little
still
silver.
species of exquisitely fine netting.
relief,
Besides
of the present day, and the inhabi-
company
as
of
early
of protie
as
under their respective
— EMBROIDERY.
120
names of “Brodeurs, Decoupeurs, Egratigneurs, Chasubiters their last
were framed in
statutes
In Saxony, embroidery on
1719.
muslin and cambric has been
fine
In the neighbourhood of Eibenstock,
carried to great perfection.
and the Erzgebirge, much of the tambour work generally sold at the Leipzig
is
Russian and West
where
fairs,
Indian merchants
done
is
quantities
great
this ;
bought by the
is
it
are
also
;
exported
much the
At
Persia.
to
(celebrated
for
figured
shops in
lace
this
of late years
neighbourhood
same
the
cotton,
linen,
may
The embroideries
Dresden.
and are much sought
in
worked, which
also
is
of this description, have
With
Plauen, in
manufactures
its
of
and
Nancy and
at
Paris
great excellence,
attained
after.
brief sketch of the history of embroidery,
now proceed more
muslin),
be met with
particularly to mention in
and the various methods of practising
it,
as
what the
we
shall
art consists
pursued
at the
pre-
sent day.
Embroidery
is
the
of adding to the
art
textures, a representation of
any object we wish
surface
of
to depict,
the
medium
of the needle, threaded with the material in
the
work
to
is
may
This
be executed.
woven
through
which
be effected by various
methods, and on most descriptions of fabrics.
It will
be our en-
deavour to describe separately the different kinds of work in department, although
we
greatly fear our
to convey the ideas and instruction
we
want of
The
plies its
pattern grows
Wrought
patiently
;
busy
task,
the well-depicted flow’r, into
the
adequately
desire to communicate.
SHADED EMBROIDERY. u Here the needle
skill
snowy lawn,
this
:
EMBROIDERY. Unfolds
And
bosom
its
121
buds, and leaves, and sprigs,
;
curling tendrils, gracefully dispos’d,
Follow the nimble finger of the fair wreath, that cannot fade, of flow’rs that blow With most success when all besides decay.”
A
Cowper.
Shaded embroidery
valling
the
the most elegant, the most imitative, and
is
most unlimited in
the
capabilities,
its
productions
of
the
— aptly
portraying and
whether for
painter,
ri-
historical
subjects, landscapes, portraits, nature’s ever-varying flowers, or the ,
Moorish arabesque.*
It
may
also be
termed the
easiest,
although
the least mechanical, being less subject to rule than any other, as
the most beautiful effects are often produced, where there appears to
have been a
a
regular embroidery
total indifference, or ignorance, of
may
following observations
who wish
commence
to
The frame being shaded, attentively
ever the subject
right
would
direct,
The
to
at
the those
XII) with the
chap.
observe
may
be,
the
position of the flowers, or
naturally if
fall
this
:
the intention
is
more
essential,
any
exists, other
left
The
beneath
•
than what convenience dictates,
is
a style of pattern peculiarly adapted for
much
introduced into pieces of Gobelin tapes-
arabesque, or moresq.ue,
needlework, and was formerly
before
be to embroider as taste
and without copying with a coloured drawing.
rule, if
what-
and determine the surfaces on which the
hand should always be above the frame, the
and the
*
and be of some use
that
this species of work.
properly dressed (see
commencing the work,
may
guide,
any attempt
nevertheless,
trust,
upon which the pattern has been previously traced and
material,
lights
We
stitch.
and Watteau. This description of ornament originated with the Arabians and Moors, who were prohibited by Many of the their religion from using human and animal representations. beautiful paintings on the walls of the Alhambra have furnished designs for
try,
from the
designs of Berin,
Gillot,
needlework.
12 *
EMBROIDERY.
122 is
always to draw the needle upward from the right, and finish the
stitch
by putting
down
it
to the
commence
It is better to
left.
with the smaller parts, such, for instance, as the stems, buds, and leaves, in
group of flowers
a
and the
:
care
first
and attention
should be bestowed on the obtaining and preserving a neat and clear outline.
This,
it
quickly be perceived,
will
to the perfection of the design,
The edges and rounder
and
is
both
essential,
to the execution of the work."
both of the leaves and petals of
parts,
embrace more surface, and are generally worked with the
flowers,
they
palest tints, as
particularly
naturally
the
attract
the
receive
In
eye.
light
and more
first,
order properly
blend
to
the
shadows, as in painting, the stitches should be of different lengths
and
it
the
needle
is
up
with
finding
to the
and putting
left,
the
tact
;
next colour, by bringing
generally easier to put in the
it
in again to the
right,
blending
shade.
best hiding place for the
When
one half of the leaf
in the
same manner, and
finish
When
the leaves are
worked, the flow ers should be done in a
The
similar manner.
dahlias
and
roses, are
French knotting: with
the
all
silk,
done,
commence and work
by veining
it
many
full-blown flowers, such as
sometimes represented by what
should be tightly drawn round
with the centre knot, as a more
formed than the
sixteenth
putting
the
working
it
needle the
twisted cord
of an
inch
it
as is
it
long,
as the
then, in
first,
better
round can be
best
the
next
stitch stitch,
preceding one,
and
forming a kind of finely
demands great neatness
gives, if properly done, the
is
The veining of
circle.
back into the
half-way
same length this
;
it
commenced on the outer
perfect
it
and the small stems, are formed by making a
leaves,
about the
if
termed
is
done by forming a loop round the needle
passed from the upper to the under side of the work: to begin
the other
according to nature.
r
centres of
this is
which
is
finish
in to
its
the
execution,
work.
but
EMBROIDERY.
The as
so,
short
embroidery, should be made
stitches, in this description of
where the work
long as possible,
as
the
of
brilliancy
stitches.
touching the
It
silk
the
silk
advisable,
is
by drawing
it
123
will
admit of
being
their
destroyed by crowded and
is
much
as
as
avoid
to
possible,
through the fingers when working.
All flowers of the
same kind should not be done with the same
shades of colour
thus, suppose there are three white flowers
the
:
same description, on the same
embroider them
silk are required properly to
five lightest tints
middle shades
might predominate
quantity of the of the
tne
skill
tint
may may
less
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
in the next, the
;
the
and, in
;
one, a greater
for
third, a
dark, depending of course on their
needlewoman.
In
shading,
usually be considered a sufficient
be
;
would be used
portion of the
The veining
requisite.
either with light or dark
Historical subjects,
and
;
of the leaves
demand
landscapes,
greater
position,
gradations
five
number
shades, according as
nature dictates, or as the colours
of
and that eight shades of
spot,
and of
but more or
may
the light
be done
and
falls,
for effect.
portraits,
are best
worked
with wool, as greater varieties of neutral tints can be more readily procured;
whilst
the brighter,
smaller,
can be successfully executed with materials, to
should always be
silks.
avoided,
and more fanciful designs,
A
mixture of these two
when an endeavour
is
made
copy nature.
German and English
wools,
purposes of embroidery quired,
former
the
is
crewels were formerly
Linwood the
are
needle
all
:
but,
are both equally applicable for the
where a variety of shades are
of course
much
used,
to
be preferred.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
magnificent works of Miss
long-eyed,
wool
is
used,
and threaded, by doubling the
wool into a loop at one end, and inserting needle.
When
done with these materials.
should be
re-
Worsted and
it
into the
Embroidery with wool may be executed
eye of the
as beautifully
and
EMBROIDERY.
124 as
minutely as with
effect,
by
much
a
silk
may
it ;
and
coarser
also be done, to
produce
good
a
mode of working, as
less delicate
applicable for the bangings of windows, and beds, table-covers, and
other large pieces of needlework for furniture.
For shaded embroidery, For some
used.
The French and
are preferred.
The double embroidery done
known
well
to
are
floss silks
all
work, netting and dram silks
Chinese, whose embroideries
of the English, generally
far surpass those
silk
Dacca, and
mitorse,
fine descriptions of
in
employ mitorse.
in China, with this material, is too
need description.
Chenille
ployed, but this forms a description of
may
be em-
likewise
work which we
have
shall
to describe elsewhere. It
is
unnecessary for us
to
instance
the
almost innumerable
may
variety of purposes to which this description of embroidery
To whatever end needlework
be
applied.
to
be designed,
it
equally suited
is
has been, or
although,
since
is
likely
the
intro-
;
duction of Berlin patterns, formerly;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;but
subject to the
sway
same extent matters,
is
has not been sought after to the
it
as
needlework, in
common
with other
of fashion.
FRENCH, OR FLAT EMBROIDERY. This species of embroidery lying smoothly little
in a
is
diagonal
often executed with beautiful it
may
kind of work
surprisingly
other
articles.
to
each other,
and shade being necessary. effect
in one colour;
cord, it
round the edges. is
also
;
small expense,
in
and It is
and, for some
be enriched by the additions of gold or
in the form of a this
direction close
or no attention to light
purposes,
done without shading, the stitches
The French
silver,
excel in
done very beautifully, and at a Scotland,
Its excellence is best
for
displayed
ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;
dresses
and
when worked with
EMBROIDERY. raitorse silk
it
is
most durable, not fraying in the
then, also, the
;
wear,
with
quickly losing
or so or
floss
Dacca
When
wool,
proper colour
silk.
when done
as
also very rich when worked with
is
an imitation of gold
may
appearance
glossy
its
It
125
desired, netting silk of the
is
be advantageously employed.
From the annexed may be formed.
engraving some idea of the direction of the stitches
Flat embroidery
suitable
is
of furniture and dress,
for articles
and an almost endless variety of small ornamental works, bags,
as
folios,
sachets,
slippers,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; such
and
note
hand-screens,
cigar
& c.
cases,
EMBROIDERY IN CHENILLE.
may
Chenille broidery,
be employed for almost every description of em-
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;whether
shaded,
or raised
flat,
it ;
may
also be -worked
on a variety of materials, but those which possess a smooth and glossy surface, best contrast wuth nille
may
Berlin
be used
canvas
for
when
:
screens, as well as
and renders
it
velvet-like appearance.
embroidering on canvas, more it
is
well calculated
hand-screens.
canvas, but the wire
its
It
When
on canvas, a needle with a round eye through
particularly
cheval,
and pole-
frequently used
is
frays the chenille too
poor when finished.
for
much
Che-
on wire
in the working,
working with chenille
may
be used, as
canvas
a thick
needle will
pass
injuring
but, if on a closer material, such as satin, for instance,
a
it:
long-eyed needle
too large a hole
is
the
better,
interstices
of the
in order to avoid injury,
without-
by making
EMBROIDERY.
126
mode of using
in the
may
this
at the
it
and
particular part,
the using
little
much
as possible:
as
cut
to
as
may
fastening on
knots
in
stitch
or two
the
draw a very
necessity of
by working
closely
appearance of
the
each
prevent
to
making small
a
In shaded
be covered.
to
the stitches too
veloute
working
to
also
The
obviated,
on the part intended
embroidery, matting or
be
for
possible,
same portion again, and
of the
last
easy to measure
is
requisite
short
as
it
It
short piece through the eye of the needle.
avoided,
a
The waste
back.
the length of the needleful
or guess
of
not be amiss.
be done, by bringing the needle close up to the
and not crossing
stitch,
may
study
the
material, it,
work should be avoided
the back of the
at
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
an expensive
being
Chenille
economy
together chenille
should
be
be
de-
will
stroyed.
In embroidering with chenille, the shades will be required to be
much
than
closer
should be used.
with
In
flat
In
surface.
gold.
d broder
the kind
is
,
coarse canvas
Chenille subject
which
to
is
admit of the chenille lying roundly on
much The
is
the
when
pretty
is
by
edged,
the French
or
chenille
is
a larger size.
adapted for working such articles as are not
best
or
pressure,
liable
difficult
but
it
to
to free
much exposure it.
to
dust,
from
For work protected by
requires extreme care in the mounting.
another method of using chenille, which was formerly fashion,
where
chenille, instead of
common
it
chenille, called
usually employed for embroidery, but for
work there
glass, it is beautiful,
There
patterns,
Small
would be
it
least,
embroidery, the stitches should be regular,
fancy
mixed, with
of shade, at
;
but not closer than will the
six gradations
silk
effect
only at a distance was required.
being worked
on
with
a
needle, as
in
embroidery, was only laid on the surface of the material
and securely tacked
down by
a
fine
waxed
silk
of the
same
EMBROIDERY. ends of
the
colour,
the
J27
being carried through
chenille
with
a
needle to the back of the work.
EMBROIDERING COATS OF ARMS.
may
Heraldic displays
but the
silver,
of the
by which
—in
azure
instance,
escutcheon to right
in ;
:
as
represents
perpendicular
in vert ;
,
purpure diagonally from right
formed
close
diagonally, from left
The
squares.
in sable
they
which divide the quarterings of the in the same
manner
partition
When
the coat of arms.
may
be
by using
a
round
objects
course,
fine
also, in
general, the collars,
gimp,
sewing
silk
on the magnitude
•
of
in heraldry are blazoned proper
supporters, the
scrollage,
or,
silk
shaded as in other kinds of embroidery, as
badges,
may
effect,
gimp depending, of
the size of the
lines,
also those
be formed by a
must be neatly attached by means of a
•which
they
may
the
veining of leaves of flowers,
as the
with greater precision and
shield,
the
,
represent
whether horizontal, embattled, nebuly, rayonne,'&c., as
line,
For
;
optional, provided
small
of
direction
colours.
his
to left
,
is
and
gold,
silk,
should be laid parallel across the
,
position of the stitches field
herald
the
the stitches
in gules
;
be embroidered in wool,
should always be placed in the
stitches
lines
•
,
may
lambrequin or mantling, the
and other ornamental devices.
be worked in embroidery, like the partition
lines,
Mottos
over that
part which has already been worked.
Coats of arms and crests silk,
and with perfect
of the
stitches ;
may
effect,
be executed entirely in fine black
by paying
attention
allowing the ground to be
in the old embroidery termed print work. in this
albums.
manner
for
to
the
visible, as
They may
position
displayed
be worked
the insides of covers of valuable books
and
EMBROIDERY.
1SS
RAISED EMBROIDERY.
This kind of embroidery for
working animals,
is
extremely pretty in fancy pieces
birds, shells,
flowers
or
fruit,
it ;
done with either
and the
traced,
wool,
silk,
material
or
The
chenille.
framed,
be
commence
then
usual
as
may
pattern must be
a
;
foundation for the raised parts by working, with coarse cotton or
upon
wool, layer
design the
is
shape
broidery
layer, in long
of the
over
with
it
When
object.
long
a
the outline of the
stitches, until
paying attention
closely approached,
same time
at the
to
em-
this is finished, begin the
and shade in the usual
needle,
manner, passing the needle through the whole substance of the foundation, which
will
formed
Fruit
tated
of wool.
by
mode
this
accomplished by
knack
certain
ladies,
Needlework,
be
it
Dacca,
skill,
requires
it
a
embroiderer can
has generally the
ladies,
to
execute.
on canvas
it ;
This
may
kind of raised emalso
be
worked on
may
both
can be done with the greatest perfection with
silk.
and
them according
imi-
ready worked, the other portions of the
them
done
be
it
not always successfully
and
experienced
prepared for
as
is
it
should
be most admirably
taste
the
and afterwards transferred.
be used, but Floss,
left for
may
besides
which few but
,
thus represented
broidery
as,
may
but
done
be
easily
shells ;
attain.
holland,
and
of embroidery
objects
design being
more
the
as
mitorse
silks,
Wool and are
all
chenille
appropriating
suitable,
they resemble the objects to be imitated
some descriptions of
shells,
mitorse would be the best, for
for ;
others
floss silk.
Flowers, such as roses, on a very reduced scale, for sprig work,
may
be
beautifully
embroidery
:
floss or
and easily executed in
Dacca
silk
this
should be used.
description
A
of
small round
EMBROIDERY. must
first
be
slightly
of the
centre
cotton ;
commence the
then
two or three small French knots, and
with
rose
with
raised
12b
form the flower by working round them in small the middle of the darkest shades
;
stitches,
keeping
the stitches should partly cross
each other, so as to give the appearance of one leaf over another. If skilfully done, the centre of the flower should
appearance
and
beauty found
which effect
it
has in nature.
will
be
If
Four shades
lost.
have the sunken
worked too
large, their
of silk
will
be
sufficient.
RAISED CUT EMBROIDERY IN WOOL. Raised work of this kind has been brought to great perfection, particularly in France, both for flowers, ^peculiar kind of mesh,
the double
made of
steel,
birds,
A
and animals.
should be used, which serves
purpose of mesh and knife, as by merely drawing
through the looped stitches
it
cuts
it
them more regularly than could
be done with the scissors.
The it
stitch
employed
is
the most essential part of the work, as
must neither unravel, nor pick out when
finished.
The
should be traced on the cloth or other material, which firmly framed with holland at the back;
design to
is
be
a coloured drawing will
be required for a pattern, as the work does not present
its
proper
appearance whilst in progress.
The mode the steel
of working
mesh on the
is
difficult to
surface
express in writing:
of the material,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;with
pass the needle,
threaded with the proper wool, from the upper to the under leaving
an end to form part of the stitch
side,
bring the needle up ;
\
EMBROIDERY.
130
again on the farther side of the mesh, and crossing the wool over the mesh, put the needle in again to the
left
of the stitch
first
made, then, bring the needle up on the further side of the mesh as
and repeat the
before,
always put in on the upper
One row of
that the needle
care
side, to the left of the
preceding
must be completed, before another
stitches
menced, fastening
taking
stitch,
is
stitch.
com-
is
and changing the colours of the wool,
off,
cording to the design.
must be worked
It
ac-
and
as regularly
as
closely as possible, in parallel lines, forming a kind of chain stitch
When
at the back.
so as to
row
the
to cut the loops
is finished,
across.
It
draw the mesh through, found more convenient
will be
employ two meshes, drawing them out alternately as the work
When
proceeds.
the whole of the object
must be thoroughly combed, so of the wool
it
finished working,
as entirely to
most
then
will
is
it
separate the fibres
an
probably appear
unshapen
;
mass,
but this will be of no consequence,
as
must
the scissors
These
then take their part towards the completion of the design.
should be very sharp and pointed, and rather large, but otherwise,
no particular kind
little
an even
cutting the
ance
surface,
gradually shearing
and when the
is
of suitable
shearing must then
be slowly
edges and other parts where a
required,
and rounded form size,
until
desired.
may
a
properly
done,
trodden upon,
durable.
it it
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
these,
is
less raised appear-
buried
partly
in
the
effect.
best adapted to succeed on cloth
should be extremely will
persevered
In animals and birds, small glass eyes
be inserted,
This description of work
if
is
whole assumes the perfectly smooth
the
wool, and not too prominent, produce a pleasing
if
'peluche
reduced, the distinct colouring, with something of the natural
form, will appear: the in,
Commence by
required.
is
forming
the centre,
be but
little
firm and
injured.
It
solid, is
so
also
Small birds in raised work, for hand screens, on
;
that
very white
EMBROIDERY. watered be
silk,
have a very pleasing and pretty appearance, and Raised work
easily executed.
adapted for
is
purposes, but for chairs and pillows
of
13
variety
a
of
objectionable, on account
is
it
may
hard uneven surface.
its
The method we have
in a similar
scissors,
sought for
is
;
but a more simple mode
common wooden mesh, and
of working, over a
the best, where
described will be found
work
perfection in raised
manner
cutting with the
to the raised edges of
urn rugs,
is
work seldom bears any
frequently adopted with success, but the
comparison with the former, either in beauty or durability.
EMBROIDERY IN GOLD AND SILVER. Embroidery
by
as executed
not a very extensive range
it
ladies,
with gold and
consists
;
for altar cloths, bags, sachets, folios,
silver,
has
principally of needlework
and smaller
articles
but
;
it is
frequently introduced intermixed with other materials, to heighten
and improve their
effect.
For that description of embroidery
guimped
technically termed
embroidery, the pattern must be drawn on the material, and the figures
of the
over which
the
pattern
also
gold or
Embroidery on the stamp
cut in parchment, vellum,
silver ,
is
sewn with a
is
cotton,
fine
cloth,
thread.
are raised
by means of wool
which gives them a much more rounded appearance.
For embroidering with gold and with
or
silk
a similar kind, but here, the figures
being higher and more prominent, or
fine
holland,
to
silver, the
which the
material
groundwork must be carefully tacked.
frame should be intended
When
to
d-iessed
form the
gold passing
is
used,
a round-eyed needle should be employed, and some pattern should
be obtained to show the direction of the regularity of which
stitches,
on the
great
depends the principal excellence of the work.
EMBROIDERY.
132 If the
waxed gold-coloured
must be used,
silk
on which
by
times greatly improved
checked bullion quickly done,
desired.
ance
r
initials,
some-
Embroidery with spangles
piece.
and very showy where much
Coronets,
material, is
the intermixture of rough, smooth, and
same
the
in
this
The w ork
cut into proper lengths, should be strung.
is
threaded with a
embroidery be in bullion, a small needle
glittering effect is
and mottos, have a very rich appear-
when properly embroidered
in gold,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
cap of the coronet
being composed of velvet.*
EMBROIDERY IN TAMBOUR. This
is
another
notched or
tambour
much
deteriorated
machinery,
still
kind of work.
description
by
the
claims
We
successful
our attention as
on
*
The
satin.
art
value
its
attempts
with
pretty and
easy
have seen patterns of arabesques and flowers
Braiding patterns
silk,
are .elegant
intermixed with
when worked
of embroidery with gold appears to a great degree
fallen into disuse.
has been
imitation
at
a very
very beautifully executed in tambour with gold,
worked with a
embroidery,
of
needle, which, although
From
lost,
in
or to have
the few examples of ancient Catholic vestments that
have escaped destruction, the generality of persons are but
little
acquainted
with the extreme beauty of the embroidery worked for ecclesiastical purposes The countenances of the images were executed during the Middle Ages. parochial church, previous to the Reformation,
manuscripts. Every was furnished with complete sets
One
of the great beauties of the an-
with
perfect
expression,
like
miniatures in
of frontals and hangings for the
altars.
illuminated
was its appropriate design each flower, each leaf, each device had a significant meaning with reference to the festival to which the vestment belonged. Such was the extreme beauty of the English vestments in the reign of Henry III, that Innocent IV. forwarded bulls to many English bishops, enjoining them to send a certain quantity of embroidered vestments to Rome,
cient embroidery
for the
use of the clergy there.
;
EMBROIDERY. this stitch, especially in shades
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a
133
species of needlework executed
with great elaborateness on cachemir and merino, in the Levant.
Fine netting
tambour:
silk
is
material
the
working in
best adapted for
very beautiful with gold passing on white
also
it is
crepe.
The
on which tambour work
material
have the pattern traced on
tambour*
square
or
it,
must
to be executed,
is
and should be stretched either in a In working, the right
embroidery frame.
hand, which directs the needle, should always be above the frame, beneath, to supply the silk or cotton, which
and the
left
by
hook of the tambour
the
work
so
form a
to
as
loop
needle,
and drawn up through the
on
surface
its
again drawn up â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;with another loop on first;
the needle
piercing the material, be its
hook, which
a third and fourth, and so
fill
leaves,
up
it
is
advisable
the centres
to
work the
commenced on
to give a
worked quires,
The
neatness
either
in
finish to
decorative
the
work.
The
rows,
points
stalks
as
of
and tambour work on
may
be
their size re-
to the coarseness of the material
elegant embroideries
or
worked one
The
centre.
and
disposal of the stitches, in order
single, double, or treble
and according
and cambric, do of
and
the
first,
Round
stitches.
the outside, and
row within another, terminating in the leaves require great care in
drawn
In flowers
outline of each
with successive rows of
oval leaves should be
is
then made,
on, are
drawing each succeeding loop through the former.
and
should
;
then be passed through that loop, and,
through the
caught
is
employed.
net,
muslin,
not come within the scope of our department
needlework,
but the
above directions are
applicable to them.
See page 96. 13 *
equally
— EMBROIDERY.
134
Chain
stitch ,
.
an imitation of tambour work,
generally done
is
on the hand with a common sewing needle, looping the in
a
* It
similar
manner
to that
stitches
above described.*
would have been supposed that embroidery, the work of
could never have, been supplanted by machinery, yet such
ladies’ fingers,
At the M. Heilmann,
the case.
is
exposition of the products of national industry at Paris in 1834, a
of Mulhause, exhibited a machine he had invented,
by which a female could and expeditiously than she formerly could with one. This remarkable invention attracted considerable notice at the time; and several of these machines are now used in France, Germany, and Switzerland, and also at Manchester, embroider with eighty or one hundred and forty needles, more accurately
where much of the sprigged embroidery for ladies’ dresses is done, at a price which human labour cannot compete with, as it only requires the superintendence of one grown up person and two children, to do the daily work of fifteen The latter are merely employed to change the needles expert embroiderers. when all the thread is used, and to see that no needle misses its pincers, which, in this machine, supply the place of the finger and thumb of the em-
We
broiderer.
cannot here enter into a description of this machine, but the
following short account by Dr.
Ure may not be uninteresting
:
— “ The operative
must be well taught to use the machine, for he has many things to attend to: with the one hand he traces out, or rather follows the design, with the point of the pantograph with the other he turns a handle to plant and pull all the needles, which are seized by pincers, and moved along by carriages, approaching to, and receding from, the web, rolling all the time along an iron railway lastly, by means of two pedals, upon which he presses alternately with one foot and the other, he opens the one hundred and thirty pincers of the first carriage, which ought to give up the needles after planting them in the stuff, and he shuts with the same pressure the one hundred and thirty pincers of the second carriage, which is to receive the needles, to draw them from the other side, and to bring them back again.” ;
;
Having of the
so far trespassed,
needle,
Cornwall
than
by
we cannot
quoting
the
better conclude the subject of imitations
following
beautiful
:
THE WEAVER’S “
SONG.
Weave, brothers, weave! — Swiftly throw The shuttle athwart the loom, And show us how brightly your flowers grow, That have beauty but no perfume!
lines
from
Barry
!
;!
EMBROIDERY. Come, show us the
with a hundred dyes,
rose,
The lily, that hath no spot The violet, deep as your true And the little forget me-not
—
135
love’s eyes,
sing brothers ! weave and sing Tis good both to sing and to weave : better to work than live idle * Tis
Sing-,
,
t
’
,
'Tis better to sing than
“ Weave, brothers, weave
grieve.
—
Weave, The colours of sunset glow Let grvx in each gliding thread be !
.and bid
!
hid
1
Let beauty about ye blow Let your skein be long, and your silk be fine, And your hands both firm and sure, And time nor chance shall your work untwine But all, like a truth, endure !
—
—
!
So,—sing,
•
Weave, But
One
brothers,
toil is
the
weave lot
of
!
brothers, fyc.
—Toil
men
is
ours
;
:
gathers the fruit, one gathers the flowers,
One soweth There
is
the seed again
!
not a creature, from England’s King,
To the peasant that delves the soil, That knows half the pleasures the seasons If he have not his share of toil
So,—sing,
brothers
,
bring,
CHAPTER XV. Cantms iDork.
“ Flies swiftly,
and
The
threaded steel
unfelt the task proceeds.”
Cowfer. “ In needleworks and embroideries, it is more pleasing to have a lively work upon a sad and solemn ground, than to have a dark and melancholy work upon a lightsome ground.” Bacon.
HE
reason
for
jects included is,
that
comprising the
in this
various
sub-
chapter under one head,
they are so intimately connected one
with
the
them,
if
other,
any
that
exist
(a
the
rules
relating
to
we
are
point on which
ourselves sceptical), are of so general a nature as to apply partly
Certain
to
all.
is
a right
have
so
to rules,
often
we
it
is,
as has
been elsewhere observed, that “ there
and a wrong way of doing everything;” yet seen
feel
beautiful
effects
as
we r
produced without attention
extremely diffident in pronouncing any as im-
peratively necessary, except that of observing the right
way of
the
CANVAS WORK. both in
groundings,
Beautiful
stitch.
137
and
cross
tent
have been executed diagonally, as well as in straight
when
also,
in cross stitch, where
and
rules
way
one
stitched
before
are
therefore,
The
crossed.
They
spent the
in the
lives
be considered as exclusive of
is
.
been
indebted
It
the
to
whom
those with
still
each to
be termed long
Every
department.
improve and
single
day
in the
learn
to
and
worked
when
shaded, and
closely
and even
if
whilst
ness,
all
When
is
of a
scale ;
general uniformity
others,
less
calculated
and become
mere
scale,
to
please
of
from the middle
a coarse canvas, the tints,
tint,
lose
stitch,
from their bolddeprived
are
masses
of
intended to increase the scale of a pattern
on
be
patterns,
in cross
be enlarged,
distorted
faces
can only
these
when enlarged by working on a gigantic
in cross stitch
tent
with
the
Some Berlin
stitch.
copied
grace, it
effect
smaller
Gobelin
either in cross or
none of their
intended for
canvas, excepting designs where
hands are drawn on a
the
of
us in contact.
are
checks on the pattern corresponding
squares
in
and elegance of idea
Berlin 'patterns
all
the
stitch,
taste
our vocation has brought
obvious that
is
superior
the
of
others.
all
and past days have often taught us how much we have
;
or
of
part
may
of what
greater part
practical
shows how much there art
show
to
in this branch
founded on observation, and the experience of those
are
who have
following
intended rather
one certain and easy plan for attaining success of needlework, than to
as
;
whole piece has been half
been
has
it
observations,
the
stitch,
lines
colouring.
by working
colours should be
selected
avoiding very strong lights and shades,
rule
to be
observed whether the ground be light or
man
wools
may
wool
will
be used for working flower pieces
;
dark.
a
Ger-
but English
be found smoothest and best for the grounding, or real
German worsted perhaps
is
even
preferable, and, in
very
large
CANVAS WORK.
138
both durability and economy, besides comfort in working,
pieces, will
be attained by the use of either.
the
size
of
design will
the
pattern
not be
essentially
may
of the needlewoman
much
generally
appears finer than
two threads the
cross
human
the
hands
should
stitch
figure
Cross
in cross
may
This, however,
by many
approve of
the
which bags,
are
canvas,
cloth,
figure pieces it
is
to
articles,
,
and
;
must thus
of alteration.
we cannot
the
picture,
of one.
place
better
canvas. face
commence
to
whether for chair
on the middle
either
stitch,
patterns
all
cushions,
seats,
grounded
on
Berlin
but for
;
and historical subjects there are obvious reasons
The
begin at the bottom.
stitches
why
are easier
upwards, and they better accommodate themselves
other
and as
;
than the upper, the last,
the
is
or on canvas intended to be
preferable to
work
each
in
it
form a centre
to
other
or
rule,
and does
likely to be
not
the lower part sky, which require
to
is
be
is
rolled,
the
nor
delicate, is is
frame.
the
to
observed
generally less
the most
uneven when taken out of
on
adds
but Berlin
scale,
sinking these portions of
stitches
general
a
coarse
stitch, the
nevertheless
:
size
designs thus worked
as
taste,
that,
thread
fine greatly
difficult task
admired
greatly
plan of
by making four
As
be a matter of
persons,
one
same
the is
it
comparatively
be copied, unless we attempt the very
are,
on
having these parts drawn on a smaller
patterns
a can-
than
;
stitch
executed in the same
be
certainly
a
for
coarser
when worked
worked
is
and fancy
taste
calculated
and where
raised,
working on
of
facility
When
not
is
it
suitable.
more
is
it ;
to
the
Cross stitch on one thread,
size.
but
admired,
equally
are
sizes
all
when
stitch,
the choice of her subject,
than twenty threads to the inch
vas finer
cross
and
altered,
be pleased in
regardless of the difference in is
In
not increased above one third, the
is
worked
work
so
CANVAS WORK. It
curious that the grounding
is
of the work,
parts
should
properly, accomplished,
To ground
well, requires great practice
by many
persons, as the
specimen of canvas work
In grounding, canvas,
deemed
the
in
is
—“the
advisable
is
it
should perfectly
beautiful grounding!”
the
at
Above
The
conceal.
through
the
canvas,
wool
the
threads of which
of wool
should be it
passes
and a very small portion only should be Finishing off on the same
spot should always be avoided; and, instead of
making
knots, the
When
grounding
wool should be brought up and worked over.
done on the hand, run the wool through a few stitches at the
Although not impossible,
back of the work.
ground
ficult to
or
bottom of the
things,
all
needleful
passed through the eye of the needle.
is
It is fully
both on account of soiling and impoverishing as
short,
yet
observation on seeing a
to begin
hand corner.
left
process,
and experience.
first
should be suited to the size of the canvas, the it
such minor
of
fully repays the trouble bestowed.
it
appreciated fine
most particular
one of the
,
generally be
Although a tedious and uninteresting
importance.
when
139
grey
when
fine
canvas with pale blue,
complaints are ;
the
colour
or light coloured
is
is
extremely
dif-
straw, salmon,
made against the worker and the
an almost insurmountable
A
obstacle.
wool,
white
ground should never be attempted on any but
the whitest canvas, nor should picted ever be
it
buff,
worked on any
subjects where a sky other.
'
is
to be de-
Delicate scarlet, smalt blue,
various drabs, dark purple, Spanish brown, gold colour, chrysophas green, claret,
and marron,
if well chosen, are
good colours for grounding. black,
that
it
on is
except for
Many
account of not,
gem
its
generally patterns,
of the neutral
tints,
There
is
so
all
both durable and
much
difficulty
with
sometimes soiling the fingers and work, speaking, it
has
a
advisable,
and
decidedly
harsh
at
which appear very beautiful
all
times,
appearance. as
grounds
—— CANVAS WORK.
140
by
mix with
daylight,
completely destroy
by
the greens and olives
their effect.
It
at
is
all
candle-light,
and
important to
times
secure at one time a sufficient quantity of the colour for grounding
of work, or
a piece
exactly to match
it
may
Gobelin, or tapestry stitch
moderately
fine or
afterwards
impossible
be
otherwise
it.
fine
to look well should
,
canvas
is
it
be worked on a
prettiest with single
wool
;
;
on a very fine canvas four years
since,
much used
in England, as
upon For
expressly
the threads of the
it,
patterns
beautiful.
it is
for
this
A
canvas was made about
but
stitch,
it
has not been
could not be
worked
warp and woof being unequal
in size.
Berlin patterns
drawn on the canyas
it
is
In Gobelin
not adapted for count icork .
although
decidedly good, stitch,
the colours should
be chosen as close as possible, but bright lights and dark shades
may
nevertheless be introduced.
when
A
the
work
is
very
good eye for colours
every other faculty, practice, yet
some
may
a natural gift,* and though this, like
is
be greatly improved by cultivation and
quick discernment and natural good taste will cause
to excel in the adaptation of colours
to the
Berlin
more than
others;'
but
most talented, length of time and patience are necessary
a perfect knowledge of colouring patterns.
According
to the
—hence
The numberless
maizes, salmons, esterhazys
*
Silk should not be used, or only
fine.
,
the
tints of
greys,
and greens,! not
lilacs,
to
difficulty of sorting buffs,
to
browns,
mention the
views of phrenologists, the eyes, although affected agree-
ably or disagreeably by the different modifications of the beams of light, or of colours, yet do not conceive the relations of different colours, their discord,
and have no memory of them.
harmony
or
Certain individuals are almost destitute
who yet have the power of vision acute. Fondions du Cerveau tom. v. t To the artist, the names of some of the colours employed in needlework may appear curious, but he must remember that wools and silks cannot he laid
of the power of perceiving colours,
Vide
Gall,
Sur
les
,
CANVAS WORK more
pinks,
distinguished
easily
geraniums,
scarlets,
tion than at first
and
blues,
greater ability for their ariangement and
yellows, require
disposh
would be supposed, and can only be understood
by those who have devoted much
attention to them.
hues of green, and every one
at least twelve distinct
There are
141
of these has perhaps twenty
gradations of
tint,
the
right
method
of intermixing which gives the beautiful effect to the leaves of a well-sorted to enter
group of flowers.
It
would be tedious
we
description of each,
a
fully into
our
to
readers
only
will therefore
instance three shades of rose leaves.
A
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
colour
dark green rose leaf
and two
greens,
The
be required.
will
foncean
a
rose
,
yellow
the
two
clarets,
For a white
shades
used
of
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;they
second
green whites,
green,
rose
should be
bright
leaf
a
a
distinct shades of a clear pink:
geranium,
be
too
White
slates,
but
a light yellow
and rich yellow-greens.
highest lights,
tint.
or
scarlet,
is
For
improve^ a
damask
and red pink, should be
rose , let the contrast be greatest in the darker
cannot
for the
for a
two French
black,
a faded rose
that the effect of pink flowers
their proximity to whites
used.
shades
five
For
olive,
colours
pink, and three
we may here observe
rose , black,
require
will
Devonshire greens.
two rose greens, a
black,
worked with
be
a dark Saxon green, two grass greens, and two Austrian
A
greens.
by
may
bright green rose leaf
or
soft
flowers
silver
must be
in
the lighter.
white wool
may
may
also
Where
silk is
be taken
be worked
either
greys, according to the
for
with
nature of
the
flower:
on a
palette and mixed according to the precise tint required; nor can they, thev have oeen inserted, be retouched, or their effect heightened or sub-
after
all
m
as
delicate
as possible,
and harsh
dued at command as painting. Hence, instead of a few simple colours from which all tints can be produced, the needlewoman is obliged to employ several thousand and it becomes necessary to distinguish them one from the other bv epithets however unscientific. 14 ;
CANVAS WORK.
142
White
shades in the centres equally avoided.
flowers best contrast
with rich olive greens.
Groups of flowers
and moresque patterns, should always have
,
one or more parts comprised of the hue of the ground;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; thus,
a
white flower in a group, worked on a white ground, pleases the eye,
and imparts a softness
whole
the
to
piece.
must
It
not,
however, be understood that the white flower rests unsurrounded
on the grounding, or
is
the
most prominent
liancy of colour and depth of shade
may
but the introduction of black in the leaves and
dark harsh
bril-
and
all
much
as
flowers,
edges on the ground, should be avoided as
On
possible.
Great
object.
be used on light grounds,
dark grounds, the brightest colours should occupy
the centre, the white flowers should be well shaded, the pinks and
yellows
full,
the blues clear, but
crimsons
tinge,
the
black
in most
of
on the
resting
of a
the
yellow tinge
leaves;
ground,
not light
the lilacs of a bluish
;
rich
barre
and
colours,
;
the
and the other parts
flowers,
should be
bright
but
not
brightest edges of the flowers and leaves, should
light.
The
be those which
are in the centre of the group.
In flesh colours there are six or eight hues, and at tints
in
We
each.
can only
say that the pattern
least
sorter
twelve
must
use his or her judgment in selecting from these to match the pat-
by making
the colours
more
conformable
tern, or
improve
what
intended to be expressed, or rather to nature.
is
it
to
Blues, not being generally good, require great care in selecting; hence, is
it
is
better to use the middle
possible, as
ment
for
the
being the best: black
tints in is
darkest colour, and the
should be yellow-greens and olives,
leaves
art
of
colouring,
it
round blue flowers
if at all admissible.
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The above remarks are intended for those
studied the
every case where
almost always an improve-
who have
and to put them on
not
their
much guard
;
CANVAS WORK.
common
against a too
bright tion,
So
immediate contrast with utter darkness. the neutral
and dark shades give
tints
we have ventured
harmony of
and the ground,
of
the
“
make
and
to the dispo-
relative
We
desired.
or light
object, for
between the object
again revert
the
to
of instancing
sake
the
committed in
frequently
errors
have seen the
to
tone, not opposition
be
to
is
colouring of a white
one
brighter
the
to.
colouring
in
is
on various grounds, where we have attempted
sition of colouring
to show, that
life
by
manifest
be it
This we have endeavoured to impress by
more glowing hues. the few remarks
produced by opposi-
is
only
can
sun-shine
of
intensity
over anxiety for
in needlework, the
error
Brightness of colouring,
colours.
—the
14c
We
needlework.
Return from Hawking” worked on
canvas,
fine
with the white horse very well shaded, except that, with a view of adding to the portion of white
and
extra
its
white wool, heightened by a considerable
effect, silk,
This change of material,
was introduced.
of producing the
whiteness, instead
desired intent,
destroyed the roundness of the body of the animal, and gave
a
concave appearance to those parts intended to be the most promi-
When
nent.
white silk
is
employed,
its
colour
carefully
colour
;
In
borne in mind
may
however,
its
be)
is
every case where
in
introduced.
introduction
painting,
colouring
is
work first,
expedient
is
at
(whatever
silk
been
divided
,
as
and
into
which
that
intelligible,
contributing to
in
the
local
demands discernment This has been aptly
tints
both
in
illustrated
is
alone required, but
their
by
selection
and
is
and that
make
once more harmonious and delightful to the eye.
truth
its
at all times better avoided.
has
ornamental
or
must be
this
In a subject similar to the abovc r
7iecessary for rendering the imitation just
which
the
essential
is
hue should assimilate with that of the wool, and
the
In the
the
second
distribution.
the following example
:
—
let
us
CANVAS WORK.
144
suppose the principal figure in a piece to be dressed in sky-blue,
and another figure near
it,
be represented in
with an under vestment of bright yellow,
and
of less consequence in the subject, to
made
light be
the
let
scarlet,
would be utterly impossible
case, it
harmonious
to give
an
though found in nature
a
agreeable or
effect
be painted with the utmost exactness and truth' nation,
in such
:
each of these objects should
picture, although
to the
on both
to strike equally
nay, the combi;
would excite
itself,
feelings
of
disgust and aversion; whereas, if the principal figure were dressed in scarlet and white draperies, and the
not too light or bold a pleasing
next
figure
would then
be
by
attracted
gaudy combination of yellow and red must with
natural
warm
all
notice.
The want
the eye
as discordant
have
colours,
harmony
of
colouring
in
Patterns
may
in
dr aim on canvas
general be
the principal features second, third, and is
little
of
;
but in the
really
may
fifth
on which the
light
and
one of them at
these, or
possess
falls
such
the
offensive
to
colouring
follow
that the
in
it
is
of the
difficult,
these also (if
as
The
lines.
there
a sixth
is
only in those parts
brightest tints are to be placed,
least,
superiority
:
dark
the
to
Arabesques
veining not
is
and sixth shades
used) more attention will be required, as
patterns
stitches.
drawing are in
fourth shades
difficulty
counting
which
first,
the
is
into
consists in brilliancy.
commenced by working tints
as
Gaudy
must be shaded according
without any attempt at
and darkest
is
ear.
as
itself
were not the judgment sometimes
offend,
warped by the prejudice that excellence
foliage
and
where
instance, infallibly,
obtruded
first
sounds are to the
would more frequently
drawing,
blue, if
principal figure,
the
which could not have been the case in the former the
in
it
the effect would be harmonious
and another point of great importance would be gained,
:
eye
the
as
tint,
should be in
over
silk.
Berlin
any drawn patterns
of
CANVAS WORK. flowers
canvas work, that
for
working the
rules for
is
it
145
unnecessary to lay down any
Landscapes, figure pieces,
latter.
still
life,
and animals, even when properly drawn on the material, require Patterns of gems require but
the talent of an artist to execute. little
shade, and borrow most of their beauty from their
ment and the gold colours
colours
canvas
the
arrange-
Birds are not
set.
the
:
variety
of
plumage divides the parts into small portions,
their
in
which they are
when drawn on
work
to
difficult
in
but the outline must be correct, and the colours clearly marked. Crests and
when
coats
copied
This
may
paper.
impression from a pencil,
when
range
them
be
arms
of
from
are
a
more
worked on canvas
easily
drawn and coloured on checked
pattern
by giving
easily be procured,
the designer
he be sufficiently versed in heraldry) he will
(if
correctly
regretted that
and of the required dimensions.
much
labour and
expense
an
emblazonment in
or a slight sketch of the
seal,
often
are
ar-
It is
to
bestowed
although not incorrect, heraldically
on designs of
this kind, which,
speaking, are
yet totally devoid of grace and elegance, from the
artist
not sufficiently comprehending the service he
is
required to
render the needlewoman.
In working from Berlin patterns, the introduction of
wool in the leaves
wear.
flowers,
detrimental
is
on fine canvas,
In coarser work, such
improvement. wool, silk
and
to the
plumage of
In the
birds,
considered
as
indispensable,
and even more so
and in
gold, silver,
and
steel,
of
silk.
Its
addition
in
as
shells,
it
may
to the
be used,
In arabesques, silk
also
in
gem
heraldic displays, are
patterns.
may The
improved by the
use in other instances must be
In the former part of this chapter,
with
as cross stitch, with double
effect,
and certainly heightens their colouring. be
silk
sometimes an
is
left to taste.
we have spoken of
the en-
largement of Berlin patterns by working them on a canvas coarser
;
CANVAS WORK.
146
than the checks of the paper.
All patterns
may
be increased or
diminished in size according as they are worked on fine or coarse canvas, or in cross or tent stitch.
the Berlin pattern of the
â&#x20AC;&#x153;
As an
illustration, let
Return from Hawking.â&#x20AC;?
sign were worked on mosaic canvas, in tent stitch,
it
us take
If this de-
would occupy
a space of twenty-two inches in width, and sixteen inches in height
but
if it
were worked on a very coarse canvas, in cross
stitch, it
might be extended to eighteen feet eight inches in width, and thirteen feet
hundred
four
inches in height.
stitches in width,
and
six
This
pattern
counts
nine
hundred and forty in height
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
CHAPTER XV! Crochet.
c<
Behold in these what
leisure hours
demand,
Amusement.â&#x20AC;?
CoWPERi
!!
ROCHET tised,
work, although long not
did
within the
known and
prac-
attention
until
attract
particular
four
years, since
last
which time
brought to great perfection, and
has been
it
has
been applied with success to the production of
numerous ornamental works. mans,
chairs,
waistcoats,
worked
rugs,
and a variety of other
in crochet,
purposes demand. fleecy, size,
is
with
employing
When
it,
wool
an ivory needle,
and has therefore
;
it
articles,
bags,
may
is
used,
may
pillows,
otto-
cabats, purses,
be appropriately
that kind
This material,
offers
been
slippers,
wool, or cotton, as their various
silk,
generally preferred.
which we are acquainted at
Shawls, table elvers, mats,
carriage
if of
denominated a
the easiest kind of
six-thread
work with
be learned without eveS looking
much
practised
by
invalids
and
;;
CROCHET.
148 persons whose
may
All striped patterns
four
in
or
afterwards sewn
and
with wool without the least detriment to
may
be done in coarse and fine
and waistcoats
;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
coarse netting
in
and the most
Gold and the
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
and
chenilles
for caps,
silks,
employed separately.
or
may
terns,
producing a rich and beautiful
may
Crochet
bags, caps, ;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
finer
silks.
or passing, can be intermixed with
either cord
on the
be strung
be
and bags
slippers,
work may be done with the
beads
Crochet work
pillows,
may
together
forms strong purses, bags, and slippers
it
delicate
silver,
appearance.
its
chenille for
in crochet silk, silk,
table-cover
a
that
so
lines,
lengths,
six
done in narrow widths,
desired) be
(if
and joined in the dividing
worked
has become impaired
sight either needs relief, or
Gold and
steel
and worked in various pat-
silk,
effect.
be divided into plain single crochet, plain
double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet with or three
two,
one,
scribed
These
stitches.
varieties
Crochet, although in itself a most simple
mentary process
stitch, is difficult to
but we shall endeavour to explain the
in writing,
describe
be found de-
will
they occur, in the following directions for working.
as
for the instruction of those to
whom
it
ele-
may
not
be familiar.
Having wound through
a
a
skein of
draw another
chain of sufficient length
for the article
the
last
draw
wool,
make
it
it
is
this
is
it
loop
at
the end,
same
until
the foundation
Pass the needle through
foundation,
repeating the
drawn through,
serve as
to
intended to make.
made loop of through,
made
is
a
through this second another, and
loop,
moderately tightening each as
on,
so
this
at
and,
catching the
silk,
every successive loop
then returning along this row, repeat the same to form a second.
A
repejjtion of which, alternately
right
to
left,
and from
left
to
backwards and forwards, from right,
will
give the
first
and
CROCHET.
The work
easiest lesson.
cing by turns
be the same on both
will
produ-
sides,
Having accom-
one raised and one sunken row.
we may proceed
plished this,
149
make—
to
A SOFA PILLOW, OR TABLE COVER.
A
good
ivory
sized
thread fleecy,
or
steel
with
needle,
working
Instead of
be required.
will
crochet
the
six-
rows
backwards and forwards, as before described, begin each row sepa-
When
same end.
the
rately at
the last
finished,
draw the wool through, and cut
of three
or four inches.
number of
stitches,
—
must depend on
but with this
required size
ofl^
row
is
leaving an end
impossible to determine the exact
It is
that
of each
stitch it
the
article,
and
its
description of wool, half a yard in
;
length will generally be found to
and a calculation is
may
be understood,
to
First
stripe
one
scarlet,
black,
which
Second
—two
is
accordingly be
form a pretty shaded
stripe— three distinct
blues,
following,
it
easiest pattern.
rows in black, one dark one white;
sixty-five stitches,
The
made.
merely given as the
light scarlet, will
number about
scarlet,
reverse
one bright
same
the
to
the
stripe.
and
one
row of white,
reversing the same, as before, to black.
Third
stripe
—three pretty
stone colours or drabs, and one white,
reversed as before, to the black.
Commence
again,
as
with the
first
stripe,
with
scarlet,
and
repeat the three alternately.
For will
a moderate sized pillow, one skein of each coloured fleecy
be required.
CROCHET.
150
AN EASY TURKISH PATTERN FOR A TABLE COYER OR PILLOW.
No.
This or
an easy pattern of various
is
The same
pillow.
and
colour,
Make and
are formed
the chain in the usual
scarlet together,
work
way
re-
black, gold
two
Then with black
stitches of each,
on the top of the chain, bringing
found that the wool not in
The
be
will
scarlet,
with black.
alternately
wards and forwards as required
stitches
of white,
cover
a table
blue.
the wool not in use
be
colours, for
and six-thread fleecy
needle
The grounds
quired.
1.
which are made over
to
form the pattern
use
keeping it
back-
will
thus
by
the
scarlet, blue, orange,
and
it ;
be concealed
will
it.
colours on the white stripe, are
—
lilac.
On On On On All
down
— the black — the gold colour — white, the blue — the
scarlet
stripe
stripe
green,
white,
green, scarlet, gold colour,
blue, claret,
lilac,
the stripes
of black.
are
and
lilac,
claret,
to be divided
drab,
and
lilac.
and green.
and gold
by
claret.
the
colour.
two stitches up and
CROCHET.
ANOTHER TURKISH
151
PATTERN FOR A TABLE
COVER, ETC.
No.
This
bedside
either for
a table
of large ottomans, the carpet.
The
quired.
are
suitable
is
the tops
dividing line
is
cover, counterpane,
cover for
and a
Six-thread fleecy
2.
a
steel
formed of two
chair,
a
pillow
rug, or a
needle will be re-
clarets.
The
stripes
white, gold colour, blue, and scarlet.
The
pattern on the
scarlets,
On
two
blues,
white stripe
worked in two
greens,
two
blues, claret, white, lilac,
and
is
brown, and yellow.
the gold coloured stripe
—two
green.
On
the
blue
stripe
—two
scarlets,
two
greens,
drab,
white,
and
bright
brown, and orange.
On yellow.
the
scarlet
—
green,
white,
two
blues,
claret,
CROCHET.
152
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No
Six-thread fleecy, with
a
Commence with two
plain rows
3.
steel needle.
of
then
black,
one row of
straw colour for the ground of the border, the nine rows of which shades from the
are in
of yellow, two
straw colour to dark orange, thus
:
—two
of amber, two of orange, two
of gold colour, two
of light red browns, the last of which extends one row below the
border
pattern
the
rich bleu
de
This
of the centre
commence with
plain, then
centre
the
deep
row
— light
the
first
the
second, third, and
stitches
third
of
row
the
a rich full drab.
is
fourth rows the
in
great
care
it,
— middle
— Waterloo row — the pattern seventh row — dark
the sixth "the
row
and
neatness
Repeat the oattern.
is
being as
black.
these
which must be hidden except
blue.
yellow.
blue, the three
third
where they form part of the pattern. the fifth row
one row
blue.
pattern
requires
Work
the pattern as follows.
colours are required for working
On On On
or
France.
The ground
On On
of the border being in black,
;
light yellow.
— C KOCH El
When
the square
(if
completed, neatly run in the wools with a
is
which
will
produce a firm edge, on
desired)
may
be crocheted, but
rug needle, borders
15*
«nd some ingenuity
to
make
it
which the
side
requires great pains
the corners exactly match.
ANOTHER TABLE COVER.
No. 4
Commence with middle blue
four plain rows
the third, claret ;
The
pattern of the
first
The
lightest at the top.
The First
same
time.
Border
is
One row of
is
— white,
claret ;
in three shades of blue,
white.
is
formed thus:
and middle green.
—white, and dark green. — with a Fourth row — green. and Fifth row — and middle green. claret,
claret,
claret,
single stitch of white.
light
is
—the
in scarlet;
Three wools are worked
Second row
Third row
the second*
plain white finishes the border.
pattern of the second border
row
first,
outer ground of the border
the inner ground of the border at the
—the
the fourth, scarlet. ;
—
.
CROCHET.
154
Two
rows of plain
Then on
claret.
mence the palm pattern
as follows
rows —two —bright Fourth row— and Fifth row — and white. Sixth row — Seventh row— deep gold Eighth row —bright yellow. First and second
Third row
the
claret
ground com-
;
bright greens.
scarlet.
white.
scarlet,
blue, blue.
colour.
This
many
pattern
requires
also
of the rdws.
It
three
wools in
coloured
different
The
very handsome.
is
may
side border
be crocheted on. Six-thread fleecy, and a
needle, will be required.
steel
SMALL PINE-PATTERN TABLE COVER.
Iccrrc^iLrjDccmcoCBaoabcnmgfinaccI sr
££0 r ncpncs'
?
3
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No.
The chain and
first
— Third row — green. Fourth row— gold Second row
—gold
colour.
black.
colour,
ground of the border.
same
row
which
The
is
continues through the outside
inside
as the centre of the table cover,
the border
5.
ground of the border
—a
rich drab.
The
is
the
pattern of
composed of three shades of Saxon green, and
black.
—
— 155
CROCHET. small pine pattern for centre is:
The
— deep gold — Third row — Fourth row —white. row
First
Second row
colour.
blue.
scarlet.
In the next, or reversed row of the pattern, the colours
may
be
varied as follow:
row
First
— —green. scarlet.
Second row
Third row
— —
lilac.
Fourth row
The
six patterns
work
to
easiest
show
white.
in
They
are
wool,
which
six-thread fleecy
sized wool
this
and smaller
above given for table covers, will be found the
in
articles,
in
•
;
four-thread
perhaps the most
and are best calculated to
;
may
but they
in
about the same size as
burgh wool
is
most durable,
than fleecy
it
its
also cleans better
it
is
pillows,
Hamburgh
eight-thread
four-thread
Ham-
fleecy.
and has a more silky appearance
;
make,
for
or even German wool.
fleecy,
effective
is
of
be worked
by brushing,
The same
not so fluffy.
as,
from the closeness
patterns are also well
adapted for working in chenille.
Crochet table
covers are
made
up,
by turning
the
in
edges
neatly,
and sewing on a spaced fringe* of the colours of the
stripes,
and
They do *
head either of the colour of the
a
The
black.
fringe should
The mode
firmer
in
dividing
line,
or
about three or four inches deep.T
not require any lining.
If the
work be
for rugs, mats,
of making a suitable spaced fringe, will be found in the follow-
ing chapter on knitting. fringe
be
case
it
fr,
r.
1
should
Although we have given be
preferred, yet
a
directions
woven one
for
will be
a knitted
found
much
— CROCHET.
156 or
carpets,
have a firm inside
should
it
iining,
and be
backed
with a coarse woollen cloth or baize.
An
eight or ten-thread fleecy
N B.
f
crochet,
In the
directions
may
be used for the coarser
working the
for
must be borne in mind, that unless any other
it
mentioned, the
plain or
double crochet
articles,
different patterns
stitch is to
in
stitch be
be always em-
ployed.
A CROCHET SLIPPER.
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The above or
crochet
direction
pattern
silk,
intended for a
slipper
in
German wool
in stripes across the front, continued in the
The
round the back.
are as follow
same
colours of the different stripes,
:
First stripe claret,
is
6.
—yellow,
with the
pattern composed of
lilac,
green,
bright scarlet, and blue.
Second
stripe
—
the
lilac,
pattern in stone
colour,
gold
colour,
green, white, and pink.
Third slipper.
stripe
The
— green
this stripe is wider
than any other on the
;
pattern on
it,
is
composed of
scarlet,
claret,
black,
CROCHET. gold colour,
and
stone colour,
white,
lilac,
157 gold
scarlet, blue,
colour,
lilac.
Fourth
stripe
—
pattern in blue, yellow,
white,
green, and
lilac,
scarlet.
Fifth stripe
—
pattern in black, yellow, green,
scarlet,
lilac,
and
white.
Sixth
stripe
—
blue, pattern
in
gold
pink, green,
colour, claret,
and white.
The narrow
round the back of the
stripes are repeated
may
the sole of which
For a moderate
succeeding rows until the
in the
eighty stitches,
—but
vary
in
The
increasing
well
size, as
as
width
is
made by
so
much
The
given.
dimensions
the
as
the
across
required
silk,
the
and increased
stitches,
some persons work
number cannot be
others, a positive
crochet
gentleman’ s-slipper in
sized
might be commenced with twenty-four
toe
slipper,
be formed of coarse crochet in black.
were
instep
tighter than
may
also
silk
a
for
slipper.
the addition of a stitch on each side
of the work.
The
in the front of the slipper are yellow, lilac, green,
stripes
and white, which crosses the across
of
its
the white stripe, and
commence with the
stitches
the third
scarlet ;
on one
width
stripes until the
front
Count the number of
instep.
on
the
back be of
other
slipper, to cut a
the
sufficient It
is
Continue
back.
length
to
these
be sewn to the
advisable before
commencing a
paper pattern of the desired size and shape.
The above form be made up by
side.
form
to
side,
chaussons to wear over the shoes, or they
the shoemaker in the usual
for ladies or gentlemen.
In crochet
silk
way
may
for slippers, either
they are extremely
warn
and durable.
The ends
of
the
wool
needle and run into the
or
silk,
work on the 15 *
are
to
inside.
be
threaded
with
a
CROCHET,
158
CHANCELIERE.
is
impossible to
each row varying,â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it of a proper border. it
size, as
Where
exact
is advisable to
the
it is
give the
pattern, first
number of stitches.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
cut a shape
in
stiff
paper
of the top, and then of the
of the work, requisite to increase the width
The stitch on each side. must be done by maxing an extra in a contrary direction to of the band are to be worked
stitches
annexed the above engraving.-The those of the top, as shewn in for a chanceliere pattern will be folind suitable
No.
7.
CROCHET.
Commence green, on the
Work
of the next stripe
which
Work
chain
rows of ground
on which the pattern
black,
is
which
blue,
The chain
claret.
is
is
also forms the
exception of
the in
ground
the
centre
white.
and then repeat the second
stripe
with the colours reversed.
The above
if well
colours,
may
of course they
chosen,
are
exceedingly pretty, but
be varied according to fancy.
slipper pattern
No.
and also the Turkish pattern No.
6,
2,
equally adapted for a chanceliere.
Four-thread fleecy, and a
The
inside
with .the
ermine but
plain
stripe of the pattern in a rich
with
pattern,
a plain row of claret,
as before,
The
row of middle
plain
a
small
the
are
by working two
be worked in three shades of gold colour.
is to
row,
toe
same coloured ground.
The ground
of
the
at
and crochet the centre
in scarlet,
159
of
brioche
the
stitch,
or trimming,
ruff,
formed
of
leather
will
or
is
in
six
in
worsted,
cannot readily be
if it
*our times doubled,
needle
steel
chanceliere
or
are
made
to
eight-thread
may
fleecy.
easily
be
The
procured
a thick knitted fringe three or
so,
be a good substitute.
cloth.
be used.
separate and knitted
They
The bottom
should be made
is
up on a
very firm foundation, and stuffed between the lining and the work with wool.
A PLAIN CROCHET BAG IN SILK.
Commence stitches,
at the top
in crochet
with a chain of about one hundred and forty
silk
(black),
on
which
and then one row alternately every two middle blue. tern,
of which
The
blue afterwards forms
work a plain
stitches with
the
ground of the
one plain row should then be worked.
row,
black and pat-
;
(60
CROCK FT.
No. 8
The other
small parts
stars
in
and blue
are
yellow brown
light
ground on each
pattern
the
in
side of the pattern,
.
in rich
gold colour, the
one row
crochet ;
of
plain
and repeat the row of black
stitches.
The next ground
black,
is
the
pattern in
bright blue,
the
smaller stars of gold colour.
Repeat these the bag
until
with the dividing row of black and blue,
stripes
of a sufficient length.
is
It
is
be square
to
at
the bottom. If the
above colours are not approved, black, green, ponceau,
and white,
An
be
will
worked in gold
The dividing
equally good
may
stripe
be
if desired.
usual sized bag will
take
about seven skeins of crochet
silk.
A CROCHET BAG
Make
a
chain
of
fourteen
both ends together,
Join
WITH STAR-SHAPED BOTTOM. stitches,
In the next row (in order to keep the stitch
by
is
to
be
putting the
making two
made
a
needle
stitches in
in
claret
crochet
and crochet one plain row circle
seam or dividing under the
both
same
loops,
place,
flat,)
stitch,
all
silk
round.
every other
which
is
of
one,
instead
every other
done
and
stitch being
CROCHET. a
plain
same
the
Repeat
this
seam-stitch
gradually in
In the next row, work the seam-stitch in the
stitch
two plain stitches
place, leaving
one.
made
A as
in
circle sixteen
the
increasing,
diameter
stripes.
will
same
when
five
of claret, one
stitches
stitches
inches
seven
raised
with
and green
may now
be
row of
following pattern
of green.
may
five
of green.
green.
then be worked in green on the
ground.
No
When plain
stitches
of claret, three of green.
of claret,
stitch
claret
plain
about four
follows.
— Second row — three Third row — one Fourth row— a plain The
of
intersected claret
of
observing to keep
number of
surface
flat
produced,
be
between each, instead
times, always
place, the
a
Vandyke border in
row
First
1G1
within
five
rows of
the top of
9.
the
bag,
work
one
row of ground, repeat the Vandyke, and work two plain
rows of the
claret
ground. 12
CROCHET.
162
bag
This
is
and in black
gold,
be varied in colour as taste
worked in white and
and delicate
very pretty
and
blue
in
gold,
may
and
gold.
It
may
also
dictate.
PERSIAN PATTERN BAG.
The
pattern No.
A
chenille.
1
will
work very
green stripe
light
and
colour, lilac, white,
prettily for a
may
scarlet, for
be
the pattern ;
table-cover, will look
as arranged for the
bag in
introduced,
silk or
with
gold
but the colours
equally well.
A STAR BOTTOM FOR A BAG, WITH BEADS.
Make
a chain of fourteen stitches, join both ends together with
crochet one
the crochet, and
row, every other stitch
which
is
is
plain
to be
row
made
a
all
done by putting the needle under both
and making two
under one,
stitches
in the
until eight circles
a bead on in the
stitch
is
be a bead.
to
exactly over the
In
which
this is to be
are formed, every plain stitch
place,
having
but diminish the number of beads, by leaving
out one
bead in each division on each successive
the
row
last
;
last,
of
every
Crochet eight rows more, leaving the seam stitch
it.
same
same place
stitches between, instead of one
two plain
will leave
repeated
work the seam
stitch,
loops, instead ;
other stitch being a plain stitch, on which the next row,
In the next
round.
seam or dividing
will
have but one
bead in
each
circle,
division.
so
that
Then
crochet four plain rows, keeping the seam stitch in the same place as
before, then
one
plain
row
all
which forms the bottom of the bag.
round without a seem
stitch,
CROCHET.
163
A BAG WITH STEEL OR GOLD BEADS.
Make the or
a star bottom for the
diamond
—may
For
bag, as previously directed.
upper part of the bag, either of the annexed patterns
—
pine
be employed.
No.
10.
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ESS 5 SS 5SSS5 S 1 SSSSSS 33S 1
No. 11,
The
pine pattern
When
when two
finish,
the handsomest.
or three
two remaining rows
The
is
within five rows of the top of the bag, the pattern will
may
plain rows are to
be composed of
colours which assimilate best with
silver grey, purple,
For gold beads
be worked, and the
steel beads. steel,
are
—
black, ponceau,
and marron.
—-brown,
dark green, crimson,
violet,
and blue,
are to be preferred.
Any effect
pattern
intended
with gold cord.
for
beads,
may
be worked
with
equal
CROCHET.
164
ANOTHER BAG WITH STEEL OR GOLD BEADS, AND SILK OF TWO COLOURS.
No.
Make in
a star bottom
round
steel
it,
dark
a
Work
five
as
12.
Crocket the above pattern in
before.
Work
supposing tke ground black.
Repeat
green.
black
the
stripe
more plain rows of green in a
rows
five plain
with
beads.
steel
lighter shade,
and repeat
these stripes black and green alternately, until the bag be finished,
making each succeeding It
has always a good
stripe of green lighter effect
by crocheting
straight line
alternately
Dark green and ponceau, and
claret
two
than the
last.
break the
stripes, to
stitches of each colour.
and greens, ponceau and greys,
violet
and white
blues,
when working
and
blues, are
colours
which
will
prettily harmonise.
AN ELEGANT BAG IN BLUE, WHITE, AND GOLD.
Work crochet
a chain of about
six
stitches
plain rows of blue, and then one stitches,
length, with fine blue
in
Commence with
and join both ends together.
silk,
row blue and gold in
w hich forms the foundation of the r
pattern
three
alternate for
the
stitches of blue,
and
star
bottom of the bag.
On
the above circle, crochet a
two of
gold,
alternately.
of gold, and continue one
row of two
In the next row, two of bine and three
row
after another, increasing each time
one stitch of the gold in every division of each row, until they
amount
to
eight,
taking care to keep the
their right position
)ver each other.
two stitches of blue in
CROCHET.
The
gold must
by working four
1G5
be decreased three
stitches
of blue, and five
stitches
on the next row,
of gold
in ;
row there should be seven of the
next,
and one of
eleven of blue,
rows of blue, increasing a the
work
flat:
gold, followed
number of
sufficient
this completes
the bottom
Crochet one plain row of gold;
and in the next, rows
will
five
be
three
of white
next
and in
by two plain
stitches
to
keep
of the bag.
and, in
one stitch of white silk between each
In the next row, there will
the
and three of gold;
blue,
the next
five
stitches
white
row, of the
and three of
and one of gold.
insert gold.
gold;
These four
form a Vandyke pattern.
Crochet one plain row of white, one plain row of gold, then
two plain rows of tern on the
blue,
after
which commence the following pat-
blue ground.
No.
The hexagonal stars
in white.
blue and
figure
is
Finish the
13.
to be
worked in gold; the group of bag with two or three plain rows of
white.
AN OPEN CROCHET BAG IN CHENILLE.
Make a chain of six loops* and unite both ends. rows to form a round, increasing a sufficient number 16
Crochet in of
stitches
CROCHET.
166
each row to keep the work
iii
flat,
until fourteen rows are finished,
which forms the bottom of the bag.
ommence every
fifth
row three
a Vandyke pattern,
by making one
of the coloured ground, in the stitches of gold,
stitch of gold to
row.
In the next
and three of the ground
in the next,
first
;
of the gold, and one of the ground.
are
to
The two next rows
five
be plain
the
of gold, the second of black.
first
;
Work
two rows of open crochet in the same
second row. should be of a lighter shade th'an the
Two
colour,
but the
first.
rows of black, with one row of gold between, are then to
be worked in plain crochet, which,
repeated alternately with the
two rows of open crochet, complete the bag.
About
sixteen
and
of chenille,
skeins
twenty-four yards
of
gold cord, will be required.
OTHER PATTERNS FOR BAGS Either silk,
square
or
with coloured
round stripes,
patterns of steel or gold on
annexed designs
may
will be
bags
may
arranged
also
be worked in crochet
perpendicularly,
with small
each alternate colour, for which the
found
suitable.
Gold
be used in the place of beads.
No.
14.
cord, if preferred,
167
CROCHET.
No.
15.
No.
16.
A GREEK CAP IN CROCHET SILK.
Commence
top with a chain of fourteen stitches, unite
at the
On
the ends, and crochet one plain row.
every other
raised or dividing line on
the circle
round
may
The cap the
about
is
this, until
stitches
is
stitch,
as for the
make
a
bottoms
increasing must be continued until the diameter of
The
of bags.
next row,
the
six
the cap
be made
inches is
if it
and a
sufficiently
half.
deep
Work
;
be not large enough.
to be finished with a double gold braid,
points of the
rows
plain
occasional increasing
increasing lines, with
which meets
a gold band round the
bottom, and a handsome tassel at the top; or silk trimmings
They
be substituted.
require to be very neatly
made up
may
in the
inside.
A GREEK CAP IN COARSE CHENILLE
Commence
at
the
unite the ends, and sufficient
until
it
number of
top with
work
a chain of six or eight stitches;
in rows round
stitches in each
be about eight inches
in
row
and to
diameter.
round, increasing
keep the work
The
sides
may
a
flat,
be
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CROCHET.
iG3
worked in open
introducing a few plain lines of black
crochet,
and gold between each two rows of the open crochet.
The
colours
best
cap in chenille are black and gold
a
for
dark blue, black, and gold
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;and
claret, black,
and
gold.
A PEN-WIPER IN PLAIN CROCHET.
Commence with netting
a chain of
about
and
rows of green,
then
of plain
stitches
six
work
and crochet both ends together;
silk,
green
three
plain
one row of alternate stitches of
drab
and green.
The drab
now form
silk will
tern of green
is to
the ground on which the star pat-
Crochet a row with two stitches
be worked.
of green and two of drab
alternately
drab and three of green.
This
increasing one
another,
that colour
is
in ;
stitch
is
in the
repeated in each
the next row, two
of
continued one row after
to be
green
row, until
it
pattern
every time
counts eight stitches
in each division, taking care to keep the two drab stitches of the
ground exactly over each
The
pattern
is
now
to
other.
be decreased by
of drab and five of green;
in the next
working four
row,
stitches
seven of drab and
three of green; and in the next, eleven of drab and one of green.
Work of
two plain rows of drab, increasing a
stitches
fringe
keep
to
the
work
flat,
and
sufficient
finish
number
with a kind of
formed by two rows of open crochet in green.
A CROCHET NECK CHAIN.
The
chain
is
made by commencing with
then putting the needle through
and making
one plain
stitch.
It
the will
five
plain
stitches,
back of the second be found,
stitch,
by twisting the
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CROCHET. chain after every stitch,
which
is
the stitch that
one stitch
that is
169 appears
to
go
across,
always to be taken and crocheted.
A PLAIN PURSE IN CROCHET. Plain crochet-purses are
exceedingly strong, and
very prettily with a moderate sized netting in rows of the length of the purse are the
Make forty
in
on which
Then
five plain
These two
netting
scarlet
stitches,
colour.
cient
chain
a
crochet
.
hundred
of one
made
and
rows in the same
plain
rows in shade of green, or stone colours.
stripes are to be repeated until the purse is of a suffi-
width.
When
completed,
is
it
to
be neatly sewn up, or
The ends
joined by crocheting the two sides together. to be
be
most easily made.
silk
three
may
Those worked
silk.
are then
drawn up and the purse trimmed.
A PLAIN CROCHET PURSE WITH SQUARE AND ROUND ENDS. I
Commence with
a chain of fourteen
ends together, crochet one plain row
every alternate stitch
which
is
all
be made
to
a
and
joining both
In the next row
round.
dividing or seam-stitch,
done by passing the needle under both the correspond
ing loops in the place.
is
stitches,
This dividing
on each row,
making two
row, and
first
stitch
same
be repeated in the same place
to
is
until ten rows are
stitches in the
worked, when a sufficient num-
ber of plain rows are to be crocheted
according to the length
of the purse, until the side opening commences.
The opening alternately sufficient
of the
from right
number of
purse to left,
these
is
made by crocheting
and
are done 16 *
from :
left
to
plain
right:
rows
when a
CROCHET.
170
The
of the round end
but instead
part,
sewn up, with a
square, and
Make
the
to
one hundred and
sixty, or
stitch of this crochet
last
left
CROCHET PURSE.
hundred and
a chain of one
be
to
is
it
either corner.
tassel at
A PLAIN OPEN
seventy stitches
with
correspond
rows are again to be worked to
plain
former
the
five
stitches,
;
which again crochet
to
the fifth stitch of the chain
repeat this
:
whole length of the foundation, and return the row in the
the
same way by attaching every loop of the last row
each
;
tinued in the same way, but
by using two
more
or
fifth stitch to
to
it,
wrong
the
water, allowing
it
purse, and bring
to
all
stiff
remain until
is
stitch
of
to be con-
be varied, according to taste ?
When
purse
the
card-board,
outwards
side
it is
;
with
it
this will
:
worked
to
and sew the purse
damp
dry
is
a
little
stretch the
the stitches into their proper places and tighten
Then having sewn
them.
may
it
colours.
the size desired, cut a piece of
firmly
the centre
the whole of the purse
or crocheted
up
the sides,
draw
in the
ends and put on the trimmings.
A SHORT CROCHET PURSE.
Commence both
ends,
dividing be
at the
bottom with a chain of fourteen
and work round
lines, until a
formed.
On
this,
three inches in length.
and
flat circle
work It
round increasing by means
of
of about two inches in diameter
plain rows until the
purse be
about
must then be exactly divided, and each
side
worked backwards and forwards
ever
is
sufficient for the
stitches, unite
for about eight rows, or what-
depth of the snap.
The
pine pattern, No.
;
CROCHET. 11.
171
and the usual Vandyke are suitable
About
for short purses.
.
>ne hundred and twenty stitches will form a good-sized purse.
A SPRIGGED PURSE IN OPEN AND PLAIN CROCHET.
Commence with one row work
of open crochet, in gold coloured silk;
row of plain crochet with blue and gold colour
a
every two
The
stitches,
and then one row of plain
fourth row
next, or
—
is
alternately,
blue.
formed alternately of two stitches
of scarlet, and five of blue.
The
row
fifth
—four
of
stitches
and
blue,
white
of
five
alternately.
The
row
sixth
— four —
The seventh row The
eighth row
The
ninth
stitches of blue,
and four of stone
five stitches of blue,
— —blue
colour.
and two of pink.
plain blue.
row
and gold colour
in
alternately, as
the
third row.
The
and twelfth rows
tenth, eleventh,
—in
open crochet, in gold
colour.
Repeat the above, commencing as
at
second row.
OPEN CROCHET STITCH.
The
stitch
describe)
as
work one the
on
plain
needle,
chain
these
;
leaves
—make
pass this
needle
two.
:
stitch
and
through
;
the
which
of open crochet follows
at
the
the
the
worked chain
beginning.
silk,
silk
two on the needle
nearly
Bring the the
first
we can
as
the length
required silk
the
two
first
then draw the silk
which leaves one on the needle
;
round
loop of
which makes three
through ;
(as
of
needle through
bring the
draw
is
a
through
the
stitches stitches,
through this
one,
—
;
CROCHET.
172
make one bring as
r
it
plain
before,
through
Put
stitch.
the
now be found on
will
the
two
two, which
two double
the
;
finishes the
plain
stitch,
for
which was passed in the chain, and leaves an open This open crochet together,
stitches
the
stitch
—which
is
varied
is
;
then
is
the
stitch
space.
by making the two long
by omitting the
done
silk
draw
and leaves
that
stitch
allows
stitches,
and
needle,
draw
needle
the
The
one upon the needle as before.
between
the
the three stitches,
;
which leaves two on the needle
first,
the silk through these
made
over
silk
through the fourth loop of the chain
single
stitch,
and passing the needle through the next loop of the chain,
—thus
stead of missing one stitch,
and then an open It
may
This
space.
stitch,
and beads
in the following
and pass
may
manner
one on the
gives
Make of open
generally termed treble ope
:
—
let
the
with very good
it
three
crochet
in
silk,
double stitches,
This
stitch
purse.
WITH BEADS,
silk,
effect
beads be threaded on the
middle stitch of the
a star bottom
of fine netting
is
be introduced on
bead in the centre of each square.
a
makes a very pretty A PURSE
which produces alternate squares
This
of open space and stitches.
which
called double open crochet .
is
be varied by making three stitches successively,
also
without making any plain
crochet
in-
producing two stitches together,
with
IN PLAIN
steel
AND OPEN CROCHET.
beads
(as
directed,
page
162),
Work
three
rows
of a dark emerald green. a
light
green,
—then
either of
patterns on the dark green ground, as follows:
the annexed
CROCHET.
173
No. 17
No. 18
The
The ground
pattern in steel beads.
of the pattern
itself
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;ponceau. Work
two rows of open crochet in light
pattern, with
Repeat the
green.
two more rows of open crochet.
This
completes
the end of the purse.
The
centre is to be in piain crochet.
AN ELEGANT CR <HET PURSE WITH GOLD. ?
Commence with one row
of
purse, in fine white netting sixk.
open
crochet, the
length
in akernate stitches, of white and full blue, or white
No.
WorK
the
above
pattern
in
of the
Then, one row of plain crochet,
gold,
on
19
the
blue
ground.
Three rows of open crochet in white. Repeat the pattern and open crochet
and ponceau.
alternately.
or
ponceau
— CROCHET.
174
When
the purse
is
finished,
it
will
only two rows of open crochet where
found that there are
be
it is
joined, but this cannot
be avoided.
The same but
it
will
may
pattern
also
be worked in gold or steel beads,
then be advisable to omit the pattern in the centre of
the purse.
An
good
on the ground between the beads.
effect,
additional colour
may
be introduced, with very
In
a
moderate
sized purse, the pattern will be repeated seven times in the length.
A
few plain stitches
at the
top and bottom of the purse will be
desirable.
PLAIN DOUBLE STITCH CROCHET PURSE, PINE PATTERN.
Commence with ends,
chain of six stitches in ponceau, unite the
a
Work
and crochet round one plain row.
rows, increasing on each
one stitches First
on the
—three row— one
row
Second
Crochet two
row
last row.
Form
tween each
plain
Vandyke by working:
a
,
stitches ponceau, one drab. stitch ponceau, three drab.
plain
rows
of drab,
—then
following pattern in ponceau, on the drab
pines in height, and
sixteen
There should be ninety-
as usual.
seven in each row
;
commence with the
ground, working three
— eight
pine.
No.
30.
plain stitches be-
—
— CROCHET.
The opening
of the purse,
is
worked as
usual,
—backwards
by working eleven
a pattern, formed
forwards, with
175
and
stitches
on
each side of the opening in ponceau, in every two alternate rows. Finish
other
the
end
of the
purse
above, reversing
as
the
pattern.
PLAIN AND OPEN CROCHET PURSE.
Commence with one row
of open crochet, in fine green netting
then work,
silk ;
Five plain rows in shades of
On
the
second
row,
work two
On
from black
scarlet,
stitches
stitches.
third row,
two gold beads, in the following position
take
ponceau.
between
the second row, two steel beads, on the
every six
It will
to
with gold beads
ponceau
five skeins of
silk,
:
one of black, and two
of green, to form a purse about nine inches in length
ANOTHER PLAIN AND OPEN CROCHET PURSE.
No. 21.
Commence with two rows of
a
dead gold colour.
three distinct shades
of open crochet, in fine netting
Then
of blue,
— on
six
rows
of
plain
crochet
silk,
in
which the above sprig pattern
CROCHET.
176
may the
be worked in beads,
two
the blue.
last
in
Then,
the
three
rows
first
in
gold beads,
commencing in the second row of
steel beads,
—
\
Three rows of open crochet in the gold
colour.
Seven rows of black, with the Grecian border in ponceau, form a
to
stripe.
Repeat the three rows of open crochet in gold colour, and com-
mence again with the blue
The purse should three
skeins of blue
one of ponceau.
stripe as before.
be about nine inches in length. silk,
The
two of gold should be
silk
colour,
It will
take
one of black, and
fine.
A BRIDAL PURSE.
Work with
fine
one row the length of the purse, in treble open crochet, white netting
silk.
Then
—one
row
in
plain crochet,
of three alternate stitches of ponceau and gold.
No.
22.
Crochet eleven rows in white, with the above pattern in gold passing.
Repeat the row of ponceau and
gold,
—then
one row of treble
open crochet in white, and one row of treble open crochet in ponceau,
and again in white.
Repeat the pattern, width, finish
etc.
and when the purse
with one row
of
treble
is
of a sufficient
open crochet in white.
•
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CROCHET.
177
Crochet up the two sides with ponceau to the opening, round
which work one plain row in ponceau, to strengthen the purse,
and give uniformity. If intended
for ord inary use, black or claret
silk
may
be sub-
stituted for the white.
A SHORT PURSE OR BAG, IN PLAIN STITCH DOUBLE CROCHET.
No. 23
No.
The above any bright toms
may
The border the If
be
siik,
square,
pattern,
adapted for short purses or bags in
are
patterns
coloured
24.
with
with
No. 24,
gold
fringe
a is
to be
cord of
or
passing;
gold beads
placed
at
as
for
purse, the
a
silk
must be
bot-
the bottom, with
Vandyke pattern above, over the whole of the other worked
the
a finish.
fine
if for
part.
a bag,
;
coarse netting silk
;
the
gold
cord or passing, being of an equal
size.
13
178
CROC TJ ET.
A babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cradle cover, or a carriage wrapper
No.
25.
In blue and white six-thread fleecy, with a large
Make
of white ground. to is
In the next row,
commence
the above pattern,
form the border in blue on the white ground. so
ners
pattern can be
designed, that the
by simply continuing
border being worked
The
ivory needle.
a chain of the required length, and crochet two plain rows'
centre
is
at
it
the
at
the
made
sides,
This border
perfect
the cor-
at
each row of the side
same time with that of the
centre.
composed of the annexed pattern.
This covering can be worked either square or in a long square. It
will
wrapper,
be
exceedingly
when
scarlet
warm and
useful
and drab, or blue and
as
an
open
claret fleecy
carriage
may
be
CROCHET.
For
used.
for
of these
either
done lightly and
loosely,
179
purposes,
the
crocheting
mats or rugs, eight-thread fleecy
is
preferable,
should
When
with a very large needle.
be
worked
and the crochet-
ing should be done as tightly as convenient.
ANOTHER SQUARE PATTERN WITH A BORDER.
may
These patterns
27.
No.
28.
be worked very prettily
border, the other for the centre
Every
No.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the
other star in the border
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;-the
first
for the
ground of both being drab.
gold colour, the alternate stars
is
being blue
and crimson, those parts marked white in the engrav-
ing
black.
being
In
the larger
In
working, tke
centre
is
to
and crimson of which
be
may
must be run
be lined with
silk.
centre,
gold-coloured
carried
stars
the
the
small
figures alternately crimson
colour,
through
wool,
the
be introduced in
at
the
stars
are
all
gold
and blue.
both in the border and
whole piece, but the blue in short
lengths, the
back of the work, or
it
ends
may
*
CROCHET.
180
Two
rows of open crochet, in black are to be worked round
whole square when finished.
the
The it
may
stars
will be
•
j
be crocheted in one shade of each colour; but
and quite as easy,
prettier,
to
work them
in
various
shades.
A ROUND d’oYLEY OR MAT.
Commence with
The blue
the
for
stitch
a chain of six stitches,
Unite both ends.
fleecy.
all
in
black
eight-thread
round, increasing in every
row.
first
may
pattern
ground
Crochet
be formed in three shades of scarlet on a
shades
of three
the
darkest
shade of the scarlet
;
being on the lightest shade of the blue.
Second row
—
of light blue
one stitch of dark
is
alternately;
scarlet,
and
two
stitches
forming the commencement of a star
of six points.
Third row
—three
stitches
of the dark scarlet, and two of the
blue.
row
Fourth two of the
Fifth row
—
five
stitches
of
a lighter shade
of
scarlet,
and
blue.
—
five stitches of the lighter scarlet,
and three of the
--
as
second shade of blue. Sixth
row’
—three
stitches
of the lightest scarlet,
and
six
of
the second blue.
Eighth row
—one
stitch of the lightest scarlet,
and eight of the
darkest blue.
Ninth row
— one
plain
row of the darkest
Three plain rows of black
finishes the
blue.
D’Oyley.
In every row, increasing stitches are to be made in the blue
and
also
in
the
plain
rows of black.
4
I
CROCHET.
181
TRAVELLING BAGS. Travelling bags worked in eight-thread fleecy are very strong,
They may
manner
be mounted in the same
Any
bags.
we have given
of the patterns
as the usual
carpet
be suitable.
will
EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN CROCHET. Plain
r
crochet
—where
Plain double crochet
before the stitch practised, :
one
only
loop
is
made
in each
stitch.
used for the commoner kind of purses.
It is
Double
two loops are kept on the needle
This
the crochet stitch generally
is
and that used for working table-covers, stitch
taken.
—where
is finished.
It
crochet.— In
'
principally
is
where extra thickness
this,
employed
for
required, but
is
etc.
both meshes of the chain are
it
the is
soles
of
and
shoes,
not suitable for work-
ing patterns.
Plain
stitch elastic crochet
wards and forwards, of the
first
—
worked alternately in rows back-
is
taking the upper, then the under mesh
chain.
Plain
open
stitch
crochet
—as
described
at
page
170.
It
suitable
It
is
used for purses.
Open
crochet
purses, bags,
—
described
as
— — —
Double open crochet
Treble open crochet
To make a
stitch
make one
to
the
A
last,
at
page
is
stitch
suitable for bags, purses, etc.: see as
described
at the
for
,
or seam stitch
—
page 172.
page 172.
commencement and end of
of a chain
before the
which in the next row are
dividing
171.
etc.
to be
first
stitch,
a
row,
and
is
after
crocheted.
called also a raised stitch, is
by putting the needle through both meshes
of
the
chain,
made and
CROCHET.
182
working
two
in
stitches
the
same
These
hole.
always be made exactly over each other.
must
stitches
In crocheting
circles,
they form a kind of star pattern, and serve the purpose of
in-
.
They
creasing stitches.
with chenille
.
To
increase a stitch
To
decrease
Decreasing
True
—
—
make two
to
two
to take
stitches in the
same mesh.
stitches together or to miss
one
stitch.
always done in the same ratio as increasing.
is
or perfect stitch
,
when working
should not be employed
—when
working in
colours, the
different
keeping the stitches directly over each other, without any appearance of the
This requires
half-stitch.
to the beauty of the work,
—to
To fasten
—Lay
on
a few
the
stitches
ends of
with
the
This
needle.
ends
A
the
is
be tied and cut
to
greatly
pass them
neatest
last
adds
distinct.
stitch.
work in the second wool,
at the
back of the work.
down
a few stitches with
and strongest plan
but they
;
a
may
off.
dividing line
up and down,
—
it
wool contrariwise, and
the
both, or
and run the end in with a needle
To run
but
draw the wool through the
off-
To fasten crochet
care,
and makes the pattern more
—generally
formed of two stitches alternately
into the grounds of the stripes on either side.
HINTS ON CROCHET.
A
steel
workers
it
easier to
crochet
makes
is
generally
advisable
;
—with
expert
an ivory needle
is
work with.
The second
The
needle
the most even stitches, but
sized netting silk
coarsest or crochet
or gold beads.
is
prettiest for purses.
silk is best
adapted for bags, with
steel
CROCHET.
Where many
colours
are required in
^o not very frequently occur,
m
short
lengths
should always be
When
183
instead
of
attended to
it
advisable to
is
on
carrying
and the same
a pattern,
each
when working with
introduce
them This
thread. chenille.
beads are used, they are to be strung on the silk with
a needle.
The average number fine silk, is
and
In coarse
silk,
one hundred
ten.
From in fine
ninety to one hundred stitches form the circle of a purse silk.
One hundred and of a bag in crochet
A
of stitches for the length of a purse, in
one hundred and sixty.
table-cover
in
may
thirty stitches
be taken for the
round
silk.
six-thread fleecy,
is
generally
computed
at
about four hundred stitches in length.
Borders of flowers
may
be worked in crochet, but
it
would be
impossible to convey a complete idea even to the most experienced
worker,
unless
accompanied
nature of our illustrations
with
coloured
preclude
us
patterns,
from
offering.
which the
But
the
expert needlewoman will soon perceive the best method of copying
any pattern of
this description she
may
desire.
CHAPTER X\ il Knitting.
“Those
curious nets thy slender fingers knit.”
Waller.
“And
between the knyttynges flowers of golde.”
Hall’s
NITTING middle
was unknown in England
of the
that one
Chronicle.
century.*
sixteenth
until the
It
is
said
William Rider, an apprentice on Lon-
don-bridge,
seeing
at
the
house of an
Italian
merchant, a pair of knit worsted stockings from
Mantua, took the
which he presented
to William,
hint,
and made a similar pair
Earl of Pembroke, in
1564, and
* In the Rowleian forgeries, by Chatterton, “the marvellous boy,” as Words“ Mynworth designates him, the following verse occurs it is part of the etrelle’s Songe, Lie Syr Thybbot Gorges,” in the “Tragycal Enterlude of ;
jEila.”
—
England.* KNITTING.
that these were the
first
of the kind
made
in
185
We
*
learn
from Howell, that Henry VIII commonly wore cloth hose,f except
came from Spain by great chance, a pair of knit
there
and when his son Edward VI was presented with a pair
ings:
by
of long Spanish silk stockings,
deemed a
upon the
fact,
Scots
that the
Paris, took
company of
first
Fiacre
St.
lay
likewise
for
some claim
it is
certain that the art
Italy prior to our knowledge of
wore
who
land, in 1561, knit
Queen
her
majesty with a pair.J
this
have as it
how
early a
marriage to the duke of Savoy,
little
known,
In Eng-
we then
as
Elizabeth’s silk-woman, Mistress Montague, presenting
Knitting, however,
use, ere the stocking-frame, in a great measure, it
said to
Be
in England, but at
it
stockings were but
find
yet
is
had been seen in that country.
that
first
founded
it,
had been practised in Spain and
silk stockings at his sister’s
—the
to
Mezerai says, that Henry II of France
period does not appear.
in 1559
was
stocking-knitters, established
their patron,
been the son of one of the kings of Scotland.
may,
it
of knitting has generally been attributed to the
The
Spaniards
Thomas Gresham,
Sir
some importance.
gift of
The invention
at
silk stock-
and
does,
“
will
doubtless
As Elynour bie the As from the sone’s
was scarcely in
usurped
its
ever conspicuously rank was
greene lesselle
place;
among
syttinge,
hete she harried,
She sayde, as herr whytte hondes whyte hosen were knyttinge, Whatte pleasure ytt ys to be married ” !
The
introduction of this passage
those
was one on which some
stress
was
laid
by
who
fictions,
endeavoured to prove or disprove the authenticity of these literary from the art of knitting not being practised at so early a period,
Thomas Rowley
(as
Chatterton wished his readers to believe) being a priest
of the fifteenth century. * Anderson’s “History of t
The
stuff j
Commerce,”
vol.
i.
p.
400.
only stockings in use, at this period, were of cloth, or
sewn
together.
Vide chapter on
Silk,
page 47.
of milled
:
KNITTING.
186 the
domestic arts practised by the industrious poor,
and anon
5
*
by
ladies, as the voice of
mazes into action
their
for
of the
and by
mysteries,
its
calls
whose
blind,
almost equal to food
—warmth:
To
winter, in tippets
done as
making
poor
for tbs a
knee-caps,
ladies
source of subsistence,
the knitted spencer, the
warm
the in-
them,
amuse themselves in
comforters,
cuffs,
is
much
—how
useful and
the
and
shawls,
caps,
Independently of these,
?
to
no garments being so warm or
How many
durable as the knitted.
fingers
exercise aiford solace
their
has given employment, and imparted what,
it
ever
intricate
its
and amusement to their frequently too tedious hours. digent
:i
amusement.*
Knitting has long been the friend easily unravel
fashion
and
knitting
is
comfortable are
bonnet-cap, the glove for practising,
made
for children’s wear,
and now
more generally patronized and adopted than formerlv.
Besides
the mitt, and
various
articles
the useful, what stores of ornamental articles does
and bead-work
beautiful purses, bags,
*
The
stocking- frame
was invented
year 1589, by William Lee,
M.A.
of
is
singular:
marrying contrary
—
it
is
said that
to the statutes
ignorant of any other
means of
what
afford!
it
knitting produce
in the reign of St.
queen Elizabeth,
!
in
and
c
?
John’s College, Cambridge, a
The
of Woodborough, near Nottingham.
covery
will
origin of this
most important
Mr. Lee was expelled the university of the college.
subsistence,
Being thus
he was reduced
rejected,
dis-
for
and
to the necessity
of living upon what his wife could earn by knitting stockings, which gave a spur to his invention; and by curiously observing the working of the nee-
he formed in his mind the model of the frame which has proved of such important advantage to this branch of English manufactures dles in knitting,
In the frame-work knitters or stocking weavers’ Hall, pointing to one of his frames, and discoursing with a
is
a portrait of Mr. Lee
woman, who
is
knitting
The picture bears the following inscription with needles in the usual way. “ In the year f589, the ingenious William Lee, A.M. of St. John’s College, Cambridge, devised this profitable art for stockings (but being despised went af iron to himself, but to us and to others of gold, in memory
to France), yet
of
whom
this is
here painted.”
— Vide
Hutton’s View of London,
vol.
ii.
p. 605.
KNITTING, in the combination of the
187
we would here mention
two,
by
prising and splendid specimens of knitting done cottage
on the
girls,,
of Lord
estate
de
patronage and skilful management of
Yesci,
the
sur-
the poor Irish
under the kind
Hon. Mrs. Wingfield,
the
whose beneficent exertions have been extended both to their
in-
|
struction,
and afterwards
poor children
:
—the
this knitting, almost
tion
by
the disposal of the
to
fineness, variety,
and
labours
of these
perfection, exhibited
exceed belief as to the possibility of
its
execu-
the hand.
So many cleverly-written books of instruction, in the art
have of
knitting,
us to hope,
— and
late appeared, that it
far either
humbly endeavour
to
patience or tact to follow the
with a
little
too
much
tions of the simplest
with this useful
their
rival
assist
those,
ingenuity
who
and
kind, as a prelude
offer a
—
to super-
we would
:
have not
either
rules given (perhaps in
technicality),
of
would be presumptuous in
from our wish or intention,
sede their use, or to attempt to rather
in
some cases
few useful
to a better
direc-
acquaintance
art.
A VERY EASY STITCH FOR LIGHT SCARFS, SHAWLS, BABIES
,
QUILTS, ETC.
Cast on any number of
stitches,
with three-thread fleecy.
— No.
18 needles. First
row
—make
one;
knit
two together;
alternately to
the
end of the row.
Each succeeding row
Any number
of
is
colours
merely a repetition of the
may
be introduced by
first.
working
in
stripes.
This with
also
silk.
forms a very pretty
stitch
for
a
purse
)
if
done
KNITTING.
i88
A D’oYLEY. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by
— No. First
6 cotton, and
row
—knit
No.
one
14 needles.
pearl
knit one
nine ;
;
so on, alternately, to
ten.
pearl
one
;
j
and
end of the row.
the
two. —pearl one knit seven knit three knit — two. Fourth row — three knit three pearl one knit Fifth row—knit pearl one knit Sixth row—knit four four knit three Seventh row — knit Eighth row—knit two two knit seven pearl Ninth row— Tenth row—pearl nine knit
Second row
pearl
;
;
Third row
pearl
;
five
;
pearl
four.
;
;
pearl
five
four.
;
;
five.
;
j
pearl
;
;
pearl
pearl
three.
three.
five
;
;
pearl
one.
;
;
one.
;
Commence again
as
at first
row.
CHECKED, OH MATTED PATTERN. Cast on any number of stitches that can be equally divided by six.
three knit — —repeat the Fourth row—knit three Fifth and rows — repeat the
First
row
pearl
three.
;
Second and third rows
first.
pearl three.
;
sixth
This bags
;
stitch is
—with
fourth.
pretty for children’s socks, D’Oyleys, and large,
very coarse wool
it
makes a good mat.
HARLEQUIN QUILT WITH TUFTS. This
is
very pretty, and easily done in plain double knitting,
with six-thread fleecy, in pieces of six inches square,
—each
com-
KNITTING. partment
about
being
each
stitcbes
way
when
;
they are to be sewn together with a tuft of black wool,
finished,
each square.
at the corner of
The
twenty-four
189
may
tufts
be
made
the
in
manner
following
grooved wooden mesh, an inch in width thread black fleecy, about a dozen times
;
slip a coarse
:
:
—take
wind round
it
thread in
the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, leaving an end to
may
be drawn through and attached to the quilt
;
a
four-
it
that
cut the loops
of wool through on the opposite side of the mesh, then comb and shear
it
For a
neatly. quilt
two yards and a half square, two
twenty-five pieces will be required,
— and
if
the following plan, there will be one hundred
and
fifty-six blue, fifty-six tufts.
added in
A
made
fringe,
as
as
as
White
White
Blue
*
as directed
The annexed
scarlet or blue.
as
It will
fifty -six scarlet.
K-
and thirteen white,
take two hundred and at
plan
page 191,
-as
White
Blue
as-
as
White
Blue
White
Scarlet
White
Scarlet
White
Blue
White
Scarlet
Scarlet
*White
3S-
3IS
White
Blue as
as
—
as
as
-as
as
White
Blue
as
as
White
Blue
as
White
Scarlet
as
White as
-as
Scarlet
as
as
Blue
W'hite
V
-as
as-
i
[
Scarlet
White
White
Blue
Scarlet
White
I
as
as
as
as
as
as
may
be
one yard square.
is
asScarlet
hundred and
arranged according to
as
KNITTING.
190
TURKISH KNITTING. /
This
forms a very
Needles pointed at coloured wools,
end,
white
and
— say
any
on
Cast
pretty
either
number
of
diamond are
in two
pattern,
and two
required,
coloursr different
scarlet.
stitches
may
that
be divided
by
three.
row
First
—pearl
knit two together
Second row
two
;
row
;
row
—
alternately
Fifth row
N.B. ting,
—common
knitting,
pearl
knitting,
to the
same
to
with
scarlet
one
;
one
slip
;
end of the row.
the ;
—
slip
one
knit
;
with
white
;
—make
one
slip ;
with
scarlet;
—
slip
one;
pearl
end of the row.
—commence
All the
—make
repeating the same to the end of the row.
;
;
knitting,
;
the end of the row.
knit two together
Fourth
two
to
with white
repeating the
— common
alternately
Third one
;
knitting,
again from the
slip stitches are to
from the back of the
first
row.
be taken off as in pearl knit-
stitch.
RAISED KNITTING.
Two
different-sized needles should
be used, one double the size
of the other.
Cast on any even number of First row
—
stitches
that
with the small needle, alternately
may
be required.
make one
stitch,
and knit two stitches together.
— — row—
Second row
Third row Fourth
plain knitting, with large needle.
plain knitting, with small needle.
pearl knitting, with small needle.
Repeat, from the
1
first.
This kind of knitting
is
well adapted for hoods, muffs, cuffs, &c.
—
;
KNITTING.
191
KNITTED FRINGE. This
may
made of any
be
the purpose for which
two or more
colours,
Cast on eight
Knit two ;
When
a
it ;
may
also
be spaced with
six stitches in each.
stitches.
make one
;
wool or cotton, according to
sized
required
working alternately
knit two together
ne
is
it
knit two
;
;
make
;
knit one. ;
number of rows
sufficient
knit one
together
are
knitted
to
form the
length of fringe desired,
Cast off five stitches, leaving three to unravel for the fringe.
VANDYKE BORDER. Cast on seven
stitches.
First and second rows
Third row
—
slip
one
—plain
knitting.
knit two
;
turn over, knit two together
;
turn over twice, knit two together.
Fourth row over
;
—make
one ;
knit two together
Fifth
row
—
slip
one
knit
two
knit two
pearl one ;
;
;
turn
knit one. ;
knit two
;
turn over, knit two together
;
*
knit four.
Sixth row
—knit —
Seventh row
six ;
turn over, knit two together
turn over twice,
two together
knit
knit one. ;
knit two; turn over, knit two together;
slip one;
turn over twice,
;
knit
two
together.
Eighth row two
—knit
turn over ;
Ninth row turn over together.
—
;
slip
twice,
two
pearl
one
;
knit two together
;
knit two
pearl ;
one
knit ;
knit one. ;
one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit
two together: turn over twice, knit two
— KNITTING.
192
Tenth row
—knit
two
pearl
one
;
;
knit two
one
pearl
knit
;
;
two; pearl one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
Eleventh row
—
knit two; turn over, knit two together;
slip one;
knit nine.
row
Twelfth
—
cast off
all
but seven
knit three ;
;
turn
over,
knit two together; knit one.
This finishes the
first
Vandyke
—commence
again as at third
row.
This border
is
generally
for muslin cui tains,
“ tidies” for the backs
N.B. the
By
may
knitted in cotton, and
for knitted
netted
or
fish
be used
napkins,
and
for
of chairs, or ends of sofas.
turn over,
is
meant
to bring the wool
forward over
needle.
A SCALLOPED FRINGE OR BORDER. Cast on nine First
—
row
stitches.
slip
bring the cotton forward, knit
one; knit one;
two together three times; bring the cotton forward, knit one. Second row
—plain
knitting.
Repeat these two rows nine times, plain knitting the additional stitches.
Knit three plain rows, ending these will form the
Make First
first
at the point;
the middle one of
half of the scallop.
the other half of the scallop, decreasing thus:
row
—
slip
knit two
one
Second row
—
bring the
together
cotton for-
;
;
ward, knit two together four times
knit seven. ;
plain knitting.
Repeat these two rows
alternately, until reduced to ten stitches.
Bring the cotton forward, knit two together three times there will
be the same number of stitches as
ment of the
scallop
at
the
;
when
commence-
—
;
KNITTING.
193
Knit three plain rows.
Commence
another scallop as before.
ANOTHER KNITTED FRINGE. Cast on nine or twelve
stitches,
according to the depth of the
required.
fringe
Slip one
knit one
knit two
;
;
be of the desired length
until it
repeat,
bring the wool forward, knit two together
;
bring the wool forward, knit two together
Cast off
and unravel the others
five stitches
knit one ;
;
then
:
to
form the
fringe.
A SPACED FRINGE FOR A CROCHET TABLE COVER, ETC.
Take
—
white,
inches, time.
and red
blue,
;
two of which are
Each
space
rather more
cut
them
composed of four double
is
knit one.
—
stitches,
or
same eight
of the fringe, including the head,
than four inches.
Cast on eight stitches in dark First row
lengths of about seven
into
to be knitted into the fringe at the
The depth
rows of knitting. is
of the same wool as that of the table cover
three skeins
slip
;
Take two
claret,
which forms the head.
bring the wool forward, knit two together
one
lengths
of the fringe wool,
and place be-
tween the needles; knit one: bring the wool forward, knit one; pass
the
fringe
wool back, knit one;
bring the wool forward,
knit one.
Second row
—plain
knitting. t
k
KNITTED INSERTION. Cast on nine stitches ;
slip
one ;
14
knit two together
;
bring the
m
KNITTING.
cotton forward, knit two together; knit one; bring the cotton for-
ward, knit two together.
may
This
be used for trimming muslin curtains,
etc.
BONNETS DE NUIT d’hOMMES. Ce bonnet Sur chacune coton est
le
l’envers
les ;
se
commence avec
Les
fin.
six aiguilles et
une de rechange.
quarante six a cinquante mailles, lorsque
se trouvent
ou quatre premiers tours
trois
deux suivants, qui
dans
se trouvent
le
en trous semblables a des crochets, dans lesquels on
ruban pour affermir
le
ce
troussis:
reste
L’on
bonnet.
de deux pouces, pour former
le
font
du bord, qui
une etendue s’appelle
re-
dans de petites c6tes, qu’on obtient en
consiste
tricotant alternativement quatre a cinq mailles unies, et quatre
cinq autres, suite
une
dont une sur deux doit etre a fenvers.
bonnet
et
a
interieurement. l’endroit soit est
remis
le
ou en forme
rempli du bonnet.
l’envers,
Tout
l’envers.
de trous ronds
rangee
servent a regler
l’ouvrage,
ainsi
Le bonnet
en dehors.
II
que sans cela
parce
a l’endroit par
etant
Le le
que
de crochet,
retroussis
seroit
on
le
retourne,
retroussis qui se
rempli qu’on
y
afin
CAP.
Cast on two stitches on each of the four needles.
—increase two plain row —increase one plain
Second
stitches,
stitch
le
a
que
trouve a Tenders,
fait.
Five needles are required.
row
qui
faut tricoter ensuite le
a
Vient en-
ornements se continuent
les
fini,
DOUBLE NIGHT
First
a
un
passer
fait
tricote encore
reste
se
bord, consistent
on each
needle.
on each needle.
KNITTING. Third row
on either ciently
—Seam the
side of
195
centre stitch on each needle, and increase
every alternate row, until the cap
it,
is
suffi-
wide.
Fourth
—
row
plain
every row, until
knit
the
cap
is
about
twenty-six inches in length.
Fifth row stitch of
— decrease
every alternate row, and seam the centre
each needle, so as to correspond with the increasing
at
the commencement.
OPERA CAP.
This
may
is prettiest
in double
German
wool, but three-thread fleecy
be used.
Cast on seventy-four
stitches, white.
Pearl one row, white.
Knit one row,
— 196
KNITTING.
Pear! one row
;
coloured.
Bring the wool before the Pearl one row,
) >
Knit one row,
\
Pearl one row,
) >
Knit one row,
\
The above forms
needle,
and knit two
stitches together.
white.
white.
the border.
First division
—coloured.
Pearl one row.
Knit one row, decreasing one
stitch at
each end.
Knit one row. Knit a fancy row, by taking two
stitches together,
keeping the
wool before the needle.
Second
—
white.
Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row, decreasing two Knit one row, decreasing one Knit a fancy row
stitches stitch at
at
each end.
each end.
as before.
Third
— coloured.
Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row, decreasing one
stitch at
each end.
Knit one row, without decreasing.
Knit a fancy row as
before.
Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh
The
third division to
coloured wool.
be repeated, alternately with white and
KNITTING.
Eighth two
In these
creased in each
Ninth
white.
—coloured.
only two
divisions,
last ;
—
197
be de-
are to
stitches
be done in the row after the pearl,
this is to
decreasing one stitch at each end.
There should be forty
N.B. last
Make up
the
it
all
on each
stitches
and back
sides
and hem
on the needle in the
and make the borders at
side,
like the first.
cap by turning in the border to the fancy row,
round:
and under the
be tied behind,
to
is
it
wool, with tassels of the same.
chin, with ribbons or plaited
BAREGE KNITTING
Commence with any number by
left
row.*
Pick up thirty the
stitches
FOR SHAWLS.
may
of stitches that
be divided
and knit one plain row.
three,
Second row
—knit
three
bring
:
the wool forward, knit three
taking them off at the back; bring the wool forward,
together,
knit three.
$
Third row
— —repeat
pearl knitting.
Fourth row
second row
the
commenced by knitting
three
,
— except
together
and
that
then
it
to
is
knitting
be the
three plain stitches.
Fifth row
N.B.
—pearl
knitting.
In repeating
the
second
and fourth
rows,
always be commenced alternately with three plain ting three
When
they
stitches,
must
—
knit-
stitches together.
a pattern in one
or
more colours
is
to
be introduced,
break off the ground colour, and the colour then to be used
* If the pins are small, commence with eighty stitches be forty-six stitches on the needle instead of forty.
j
is
to
then, there should
KNITTING.
198
be fastened on in tbe following manner.
end of the
wool, and
Twist the ends of gether,
—
—Make
may
of colours
by making
off,
left
hand.
wool and that of the ground,
this coloured
the ground colour,
a slip knot in the
on the needle in the
it
commence again with
a loop, and
fastening on
again
as
to-
required for the pat-
knit in plain knitting the stitches
then fasten
tern,
pass
Any number
above.
thus be introduced, to form flowers or other pat-
which, however, are always done in plain knitting.
terns,
The wool
suitable for barege knitting,
embroidery
fleecy.
may
It
also be
is
done in
known
as
four-thread
fine cotton.
SHETLAND SHAWL PATTERN. This should be worked in fleecy,
fine cotton, or four-thread
embroidery
with No. 14 or 15 needles.
Cast on any number of stitches that First
forward,
—bring the knit one —
row
;
them
stitch over
Second row
Third row
—
be divided by
one
slip
:
six.
bring the wool
;
knit two together, bring the
slip
knit one. ;
pearl knitting.
—bring
forward, slip one
may
wool forward, knit one
;
the wool forward, knit three
;
bring the wool
knit two together, bring the slip stitch over them.
—pearl knitting. one row —knit one
Fourth row Fifth
one
slip
;
over them
stitch
slip :
;
knit one
;
;
knit two together, bring the
bring the wool forward, knit
bring the wool forward.
Sixth row
—
pearl knitting.
Seventh row over them
;
—
slip
one ;
knit two together, bring the slip stitch
bring the wool forward, knit three
forward.
Eighth row
—pearl
knitting.
;
bring the wool
KNITTING.
199
N.B. There are to be two plain stitches
end of each row,
the
at
beginning and
form an edge.
to
A SHETLAND KNITTED SCARF.
Commence with hundred First
row
the pattern of the
—knit
wool forward
two
and knit one, eight times
gether four times
:
pearl one
— Third row—plain Fourth row—pearl Second row
four
— repeat
times
;
bring
the
stitches
to-
;
two
knit
end of the row.
to the
pearl knitting.
Repeat, from the inches deep.
;
casting on one
scarf.
together
stitches
by
border,
width of the
for the
stitches
knitting. knitting.
row
first
Commence
until
the
pattern
the centra as follows
is
about fourteen
—working
:
one row
of pearl knitting, before the pattern commences. First
row
slip stitch
—bring
the wool forward, slip one; knif one, pass the
over the knitted one
;
knit one
one
pearl ;
;
repeat to
the end of the row.
Second and following rows
—repeat
the
first,
—every
row being
alike.
No. 17 needles, and four-thread embroidery If this fleecy
In
splitting, the
portant, together,
as
be
split,
wool
it
exactly
will frequently
by laying
a few stitches
imitates
break
;
fleecy.
the
but
ends contrariwise, and
the
may
be so knit
Shetland wool. this
is
not
im-
them
twisting
that the joins are
not
perceptible.
Both ends of the scarf knitting of the
border.
are to be
They may
ted,
or netted fringe, of the
fine
German
wool.
made
alike
by reversing
be finished with a
same wool, without
the
tied, knit-
splitting,
or
of
KNITTING.
200
A BRIOCHE.
The
brioche knitting-stitch is simply as follows;
forward, slip one
A
brioche*
bring the wool
knit two together.
;
formed of sixteen straight narrow
is
stripes,
and
sixteen wide stripes which gradually decrease in width towards the
top or centre of the cushion. or double
German
Cast on ninety knit two turns
;
turn
may
be
stitches,
in black,
made
in three-thread fleecy
wooden for the
pins,
No.
narrow
19.
and
stripe,
then three turns in gÂťld colour, and two turns
This completes the narrtfw
again in black.
The
It
wool, with ivory or
conical stripe
is
knitted as follows:
stripe.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;knit two
stitches,
knit these two, and two more of the black and turn ;
tinue this, taking each fime two more stitches
;
of the black, until
within two stitches of the top and turn; the wool will the bottom or wide part ol the stripe.
and con-
now
be at
Commence again with
the
black as in former narrow stripe, knitting the two black stitches the top.
at
By The
*
So
a
turn
,
we mean one row am' back
colours for the conical
called
of that name.
from
its
stripe
again.
nay be blue and drab, or
resemblance, in shape, to the well
known French cako
KNITTING.
any two, or four
colours,
each be
thus
different,
green, crimson, white,
French
the
blue,
deep
lilac,
the last conical stripe
narrow
first
stiff
which assort well together, or they
—white,
white, buff,
lilac.
and the brioche
stripe,
ruby,
colour,
finished,
is
may
stone colour, bright
scarlet,
gold
chrysophas green, and
blue,
When
:
201
is
is
it
to be
to be
knitted to
made up with
a
bottom of mill board, about eight inches in diameter, covered
with
The top
cloth.
drawn
is
with a tuft of soft wool cord and
tassels,
as
represented
down, or
stuffed with
;
together, and fastened in the centre
but they are generally preferred with a
fine
the
in
combed
engraving.
should be
It
w6ol.
BOURSE A LA JOSEPHINE. This
a very
is
skeins of silk will
with or without beads.
pretty purse,
Cast on seventy-five stitches, in second sized netting First
Three
be required, and twelve rows of beads.
—plain knitting. row—knit one bring
silk.
row
Second
;
one, pass the slip stitch
over
wool forward,
the
made with
If
it.
one
slip
beads,
;
knit
pass the
bead on in bringing the wool forward. Repeat the
first
and second rows
alternately,
to
complete the
purse.
GERMAN PURSE. Cast on one hundred First
bring
row— slip
the
silk
one;
stitches.
knit
forward, knit
one, pass
one
bring ;
one
;
J
slip
stitch
over
it;
the silk forward, pearl
continue to the end of the row
Every succeeding row r
the
is
the same.
hree skeins of coarse netting
quired.
It
silk,
and needles No.
forms a strong gentleman’s purse.
10, are re-
;
202
KNITTING.
A STRONG KNITTED PURSE. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three
row
First the
—bring
wool forward,
the
over them
stitch
slip
;
— continue
slip
one; knit two, pass
the same to the end of the
row.
—plain row—knit two,
Second row
Third the holes
knitting.
may come
Fourth and
row
fifth
—same
Sixth row
This purse
and needles
as
the
pattern
is
commenced, that
—same
as second
and
third.
first.
take five
will
No
before
a diagonal direction.
in
of second-sized netting
skeins
silk,
It particularly requires stretching.
8.
OPEN STITCH PURSE WITH READS. Cast on sixty stitches in netting First
row
—knit
one
bring the ;
bring the silk forward, pass needle
;
knit two together
;
silk.
silk forward, knit
on a bead, placing
—continue
two together it
behind the
the same to the end of the
row, placing a bead every alternate pattern.
Second row
—same
—knit
Third row
—then
as the
one
continue as in
;
first,
without beads.
bring the silk forward, pass on a bead,
first
row.
Second-size purse twist, and needles No.
are required.
9,
HERRINGBONE, OR SHETLAND STITCH FOR A PURSE. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by
About eighty First row
will
four.
be required.
—bring
the silk forward, slip one
knit one, pass the ;
— KNITTING. stitch
slip
over
it
;
knit one
2C3
bring the silk forward^ pearl one
;
;
ropeat to the end of the row.
Every row
is
the same.
Three skeins of second-sized
and two needles, No.
silk,
13, will
be required.
A PENCE JUG, OR PURSE.
Five needles, No.
cla-
and green Hamburgh wool.
ret
Commence with
handle
the
;
—by
casting in five
in
stitches
and knitting in plain rows backwards and forwards until
claret, is
be required, and half a skein of
14, will
two inches on
Cast
six
on the same needle, twenty-six
stitches
second, and ten on the third
Knit from the
With
first
needle,
the second needle
the wool back, slip one
;
knit two together
rounds, until
needle,
which
two ;
pearl two ;
—
twelve
;
stitches
;
;
only
pass
over
slip stitch
seven of the end
it ;
then,
;
knit two.
knit two
alternately repeating
;
remain on the
second
finishes the spout.
Knit three plain rounds with green, green, and
alternately.
pearl two ;
plain, within
pearl two
two
pearl ;
knit two
knit one, draw the
knit one
on the
then,
—
;
the next needle
three
:
—knit
pearl two
knit the remaining stitches
On
it
long.
five
with
claret,
five
with
claret, three
with
every two stitches being alternately
plain and pearled.
Knit one plain round with claret ;
two
green
pearl
three
rounds
with
;
knit one round with green,
making
a stitch between every
stitches.
Pearl three rounds
with green ;
knit one
plain round
in ;
the
next two rounds, bring the wool forward and knit two together.
— 204
KNITTING.
Knit one plain round with
knit one
pearl three rounds
claret
;
;
plain round
two together
knit
rounds bring the wool forward and
in the next two
;
one plain round
knit
;
Divide the stitches on the four needles,
pearl
rounds.
three
;
—twelve
Then-
on each.
In plain stocking knitting, knit five rounds, decreasing one
each
ternately, at
end, and in the
middle
of the
al-
Knit
needle.
three rounds more, decreasing occasionally.
Divide the stitches on three needles, knit pearl three rounds
without decreasing
plain
a
round, and
with plain rounds,
finish ;
Draw
decreasing until only four stitches remain on each needle.
up
and attach the lower end of the handle
small opening
the
to
the side of the jug.
may
It
also
be worked in
silk.
STAR PATTERN SHAWL IN TWO COLOURS. Cast on four stitches in blue. First row
—bring the
wool forward, knit one (these two stitches
form the increase, and therefore are not the
wool forward,
them
knit
to be
two, pass
repeated)
the
;
bring
stitch over
slip
;
repeat the same to
the
end of the row.
;
—pearl — same row—same
Second row Third
row
Fourth
Repeat these rows
1
one
slip
are
one
and
finish
As
the
knitting in claret. as as
first
in blue.
second in
alternately,
claret.
in blue
and
claret,
hundred and eighty stitches on the needle
until cast
there ofl^
;
with a netted fringe. increasing adds
an irregular
have one, and others two knitted stitches
stitch,
PLAIN RIBBED MUFFATEES.
Four needles
will
be required.
some
at their
rows
will
commencement.
KNITTING.
205
Cast on each of three needles eighteen or twenty-four stitches according to the size desired. First round
—knit
pearl
three
three
;
;
Second and succeeding rounds
—repeat
— alternately. the
first.
GRAHAM MUFFATEES.
Two
colours are
are prettiest
generally used
in four-thread
Cast on forty-five
—say
embroidery
red
and white,
fleecy.
stitches.
Bring the wool forward, knit two together; >
white.
>
red.
repeat the same to the end of the row.
Knit
six plain rows.
Knit
six plain rows.
Bring the wool forward, knit two Knit
six plain rows.
Knit
six plain rows.
together.
Bring the wool forward, knit two together. Knit
six plain rows.
white.
They
KNITTING.
20G Knit
six plain rows.
Bring the wool forward, knit two
Knit
six plain rows.
Knit
six plain rows.
together.
1
red.
white.
Bring the wool forward, knit two together.
Take double
wool, and needles
double the
size.
Knit one plain row. Pearl one row. white.
Knit two plain rows. Pearl one row.
Knit one plain row. red.
Pearl one row.
^j>
Repeat these two red and white
and
finish with the
The
cuffs,
when
two
finished,
roll
ing represents them without the
Two
needle*,
No.
11,
stripes alternately
stitches together as at the
over at the top. *
four times,
commencement.
The engrav-
roll.
and two No.
16, will
be required.
;
KNITTING. Cast on thirty-five
—knit
row
First
207
stitches.
twenty plain
and
stitches,
double
in
fifteen
knitting.
Every second row
When
the same.
is
double knitting comes over tight
The
they are sufficiently large, knit or sew them up.
the
to
the
hand, the
knitting
plain
sitting
wrist.
wTh
Three-thread fleecy,
needles,
No.
are to be used.
16,
PATTERN FOR A CHAIR TIDY, OR d’oYLEY. Cast on one hundred and sixty-eight stitches. the
on which the pattern
foundation,
is
be
to
This
form
will
eight
repeated
times.
First
row
—pearl knitting. —knit two together;
knit three; knit two together;
Second row knit
one
bring the wool forward, knit one
;
ward, knit one knit one
;
Third row
;
;
—repeat
this
to
bring the wool
for-
;
the end of the row.
—
— knit
two together
knit one
knit tu o together
:
;
bring the wool forward, knit three
;
;
for-
knit two together
pearl knitting.
Fourth row
knit one
;
bring the wool
;
knit three
bring the wool forward, knit one
;
ward, knit two
knit one
knit two together
bring the wool forward, ;
knit two together ;
knit one
knit
two together
knit ;
;
one; bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward, knit two plain.
Fifth row
—pearl knitting. — one knit
Sixth row
two
slip
;
over them the
;
knit one ;
bring
wool forward, knit one
the
slip
stitch
over
them
the slip
;
;
together,
draw the
wool forward, knit one
knit one
;
;
slip stitch
bring
knit five; bring the wool forward, knit two.
the
bring
five ;
knit two together
;
draw
wool forward,
;;
208
KNITTING.
—pearl knitting. —knit two; bring
Seventh row
Eighth row
the wool forward, knit one ;
two together
;
knit one ;
the wool forward, knit one
knit two together
knit two together
;
knit
;
;
bring the wool forward, knit one
the wool forward, knit one
bring
;
knit three
bring
;
knit three ;
knit
;
two together.
Ninth row
— —knit
pearl knitting.
Tenth row
two
bring
;
knit two together
;
knit one ;
wool
the
bring the wool forward, knit one
knit three
forward,
•
knit two together
;
knit one
;
bring the wool forward, knit three
bring the wool forward, knit one
;
knit two together
knit one
;
knit two together.
— Twelfth row—knit two;
Eleventh row
pearl knitting.
bring the wool forward, knit five
the wool forward, knit one the
knit two
one
slip ;
over them; knit one % bring bring the wool forward, knit one
the
stitch
slip
;
knit five
This tidy,
bring the pattern
slip
may
be worked in cotton,
for light shawls, in four-thread
may
bring bring
wool forward, one
;
knit two
over them.
stitch
and finished with a netted
14 or 15
slip
;
;
together,
;
together,
;
fringe.
No.
It
embroidery
is
fleecy.
for
6,
also
a chair
very pretty
Needles Nos.
be used with either material.
DOUBLE KNITTING FOR COMFORTERS, ETC. Cast on any even number of First
knit one
;
slip
to
Every succeeding row row,
is
stitches.
—bring the wool forward, —continue the end of the
row
the
slip stitch in
is
the same.
one ;
pass the wool back,
row.
The
stitch knitted
in
the next.
Large sized needles, and four-thread fleecy
will be required.
one
— KNITTING
209
A KNITTED BAG, WITH BLACK OR GARNET BEADS.
# Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of and cast on eighty-eight First
the
stitches.
and second rows
Third row
—
—plain
knitting without beads.
with a bead
knit one
one
slip
;
same alternately
Repeat from
first
claret netting silk,
row eighty-four
mencement of every row
;
knit one
repeat
;
end of the row.
to the
make
to
a
Observe
times.
at the
com-
slip-stitch.
Join up* the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finish
A
with two bars and gold chain. gold points,
the
is
prettiest
fringe of the garnet beads, with
trimming.
It
should have
a stiff
lining.
No. 14 needles, eight skeins of netting
silk,
and four bunches
of beads, including those for the fringe, will be required.
DOTTED KNITTING, FOR BABIES* SHOES, CUFFS, ETC. Cast on any even number of First
row
—
Second row
pearl one; knit
—-knit
one; pearl one.
Repeat these two rows
Two
No.
needles,
stitches.
one.
8,
alternately.
and German wool, are required. e*'"
A KNITTED BONNET Cast on ninety First, second,
Fourth
row
stitches,
in hair
>.!
CAP.
brown, for border*
and third rows—-plain knitting.
—bring
the
wool
forward,
knit
Then,
Commence with another Fifth, sixth,
tv.
—say white. —plain
colour
and seventh rows
knitting.
two
together.
210
KNITTING.
Eighth row-—bring the wool forward, knit two together,
t Repeat
these last four rows seven times:
der as before.
be drawn
up
is
to
it
under the chin.
Then the
cast
at
on forty
brown border
two ends, and strings attached
the
—
to be
head
three rows
This
is
and forms the band
piece,
run through
it,
to tie
to
tie
and commence another band with
stitches
as above,
and repeat the brown border. to the
then the brown bor-
forms a band of about four inches wide, which
It
of the to
pattern in white,
be sewn or knitted on
for the back.
A
ribbon
is
close to the head.
it
irxrT r r T n MUFF tt 'cp t\t IMITATION t \t rr a rin\r nf SABLE. sart.p OF IN Aa KNITTED r
r
,
,
r
iyt
Cast on seventy or eighty First, second,
Fourth row at the
back
;
stitches.
and third rows
—bring
the
—plain
knitting.
wool forward, knit two together, taken
continue the same to the
Repeat these four rows, until the piece be about 18 inches
long,
admitting that the shading comes in correctly.
Two No.
19 needles are required, and double
four distinct shades to match the colour of sable.
the lightest shade,
them again
—
then the second,
third,
ANOTHER MUFF. stitches.
German
wool, in
Commence
with
and darkest, reversing
to the lightest, as represented in the
Cast on forty-five
a
end of the row.
engraving.
ft
—
1
KNITTlNfi.
Every row
is
worked the same, with a
slip stitch at the begin-
pearl one; repeat to the end of the row.
knit one
ingj
21
;
twenty inches long
require a piece of about
It will
to
make
a
moderate sized muff, which must be lined with gros de Naples, stuffed with wool,
and
retain
in
it
shape.
muff may be sewn
and a
Cord and at the
quantity of horsehair to
sufficient tassels to
ends
or
match the colour of the
may
it
;
be drawn up with
ribbons.
a baby’s shoe.
Cast on thirty-six stitches in red
Knit
and
wool.
six turns, increasing a stitch at each row, to
form the toe
heel.
Knit the
German
six
more
turns, increasing a
at one
stitch
end
only for
toe.
Cast off thirty stitches on another needle sixteen stitches for eighteen turns, and
cast
;
—knit them
remaining
the off
on another
—knit
three plain
needle.
With rows;
white
— in
the
,
pick
up
the
thirty red stitches;
next, bring the wool forward, knit
Knit three plain rows
;
two together.
leave sixteen stitches on the needle, and
repeat the pattern in white across the instep seven times, which
afterwards to be sewn to the red knitting for the
Cast on sixteen stitches in white to correspond
Knit
two plain rows
;
—in
the
next, bring
is
toe.
w.ith the
the
other side.
wool
forward.
— ;
212
KNITTING.
knit two together the whole length of the
row
up
in red, taking
and make creasing
this side
now
instep are
:
— The
stitches both of the
Take
plain turns.
—knit
one plain
shoe
and the white in the
finished.
Pick up the
two together
;
of the shoe to correspond with the other, de-
of increasing.
instead
row
the stitches that were cast off for the toe
and instep
shoe
a larger needle, bring the
;
—knit
three
wool forward, knit
forming the holes to pass the ribbon through.
Knit three plain turns with a small needle.
In the next row,
bring the wool forward, knit two together.
Knit three plain rows
in
knit two together, until the off
the
bring the wool forward,
next,
;
sock be
Cast
of the height desired.
very loosely.
ANOTHER VERY PRETTY BABy’s SHOE. This
worked in
is
stripes with
two
colours.
Cast on twenty-eight stitches in blue,
—knit
one plain row
;
knit one plain row in white, adding a stitch at the end for the heel,
and turn
as before,
knit another plain row with blue, adding a stitch
;
and turn.
Repeat the above alternately without any additional until
there
are
eight
stripes of each
Knit one plain row in teen
stitches,
Knit the
blue,
and
beginning from the h thirteen
Knit one row with
remaining
blue,
.
in .n
side,
blue,
and turn.
the heel. shoe.
in
The
— add
turning, cast
off
seven
l
sht'hes
with white, and
and turn.- -( -ontinue until there are
rows of one colour, and four of the other. stitches
stitcherf,
colour.
Then
turn. five
knit the thirteen
seventeen to correspond with the
other
Finish this side like the other, decreasing for toe
and heel are then sewn up in the shape of a
213
KNITTING.
Take four and
ankle,
needles
needles.
Knit
a stitch
slip
;
,
and pick up the
putting an equal five plain
one
rounds
;
round the instep
stitches in each of three
bring the wool forward, to make
knit two, pass the slip-stich ;
the wool forward, and repeat
Knit
stitches
number of
the
same
over them
;
bring
for one round.
five plain rows.
Pearl four rows.
Knit
five plain rows.
Pearl four rows.
Knit two plain rows. Finish by bringing the wool forward, and knitting two together.
Knit two plain rows, and
The upper
cast
No. 14 needles, and three-thread are to be used.
them on the
off.
or round part of the shoe,
A
ribbon
may
is prettiest
fleecy, or
white.
German
wool,
be run in the open stitches to
foot.
a
double
in
babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stocking.
tie
KNITTING.
214 Cast on twenty-three
stitches in
brown, and knit six turns,
and
creasing one at each end. for the toe
Knit
now
There
six turns, increasing a stitch only at the toe.
Cast off twenty
be thirty-six stitches on the needle.
and knit the remaining sixteen $nd instep
side of the shoe
will
now
will
stitches,
One
for eighteen turns.
stitches,
in-
heel.
be made.
Cast on twenty stitches and work the other side of the shoe to correspond.
Pick up the
Knit two
with white across the instep.
stitches
turns, catching in one loop of the sides of the shoe, in each row, to join
them
together.
Knit one turn in brown, two in white, one in brown, two in white, one in brown.
Pick up the
The
stitches
which forms the
now
shoe and instep will
of the
on each
shoe,
side
be finished. of the piece
There should now be forty
instep.
stitches
on
the needle.
Knit seven turns in white at the
;
then nineteen turns, increasing a stitch
lowed by
fol-
eighteen turns, decreasing one stitch in every other turn.
Forty-four stitches will
now
be found on the needle.
pearl two alternately for five turns.
one row in
The
Knit three plain turns
beginning of every other turn.
shoe
red,
and cast to
is
Knit and
Knit two plain rows.
Knit
off loosely.
be sewn up into
its
shape, and the stocking
closed up.
Open babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
stockings
may
be made by continuing the knitting
as directed for the shoe pattern, p. 211.
A DOUBLE KNITTED SCARF, IN TWO COLOURS. Cast on thirty-six stitches in blue. First row
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;bring
back, knit one
the wool forward,
slip
one
repeat to the end of the row. ;
;
pass
the
wool
KNITTING. Eacli succeeding row
always comes under the It
require seven
will
is
the same, observing that the knit-stitch
slip-stitch.
rows
seven of white, seven of
of blue,
w hite. seven of
blue, thirty-eight of
215
r
blue, seven
of white, seven
of blue.
Cast off and draw up the
Finish with blue and white
ends.
tassels.
CABLE KNITTING. Cast oh any number of stitches that can be divided by First
row—pearl
six.
knitting.
—plain kniting. —pearl Fourth row—plain Fifth row—pearl Sixth row —plain knitting. Seventh row —pearl three Eighth row — Second row
Third row
knitting.
knitting.
knitting.
knitting.
on
stitches
slip
keeping that needle in front
knit the
to
always
a third needle,
next three stitches
the third needle again, and slip three more stitches on it
before
as
and knit
in front,
the
mxc
three
it,
then
;
;
knit the three stitches that were slipped on the third needle
take
;
keeping then
stitches ;
knit the three stitches slipped on tki third needle; continue
same
row; commence again as
the end of the
to
at
first
the
row.
KNITTED CUFFS. Cast
thirty
round
Second pearl one
stitches
on each of two
needles,
and
forty
on
and knit a plain round.
the third,
—pearl
pass the ;
one
silk
J
back,
pass
the
knit one,
silk
—by
back,
knit
one
;
which you make
;
KNITTING.
216 a
loop
repeat
stitch
this
times,
five
which
make, with
will
;
the loop stitch, thirteen from the last pearled stitch the pattern again
Third round
as
—pearl
one
knit
one
one, pearl
;
commence
one
slip ;
over
the slip-stitch
one, pass
;
beginning of round.
at
it ;
knit nine
;
knit two
;
knit
together
end of the round.
repeat to the
Fourth round
—same
as
third,
except that there will be only
seven plain stitches to knit. Fifth round
There as
at
—same
now be
will
as
third,
the same
with only five plain stitches.
number of
on the needles
stitches
the commencement.
Knit one plain round, excepting on the three division which are knitted
as
before.
round,
and when the
a
plain
round
They may be made
either
Repeat ficient
from
second knit
length,
stitches
to
of
suf-
with
the
are
cuffs
correspond
beginning.
needles No.
of
silk,
cotton, or
fine
wool, with
11.
COVER FOR AN AIR CUSHION. Cast on eighty
stitches,
on each of the three needles
;
knit
one round with the wool turned round the needle.
Second round
—knit
the
repeat this, slipping
first ;
second
every
stitch,
slipping
second stitch
it
over
the
over the former
one.
Repeat the
first
and second rounds
alternately.
A FISH NAPKIN, ifoYLEY, OR TIDY. Cast on ninety-six stitches ternately.
pearl ;
and knit sixteen rows
al-
— 217
KNITTING. Seventeenth row three
the
pass
;
stitches
—pearl
sixteen
the
repeat
three
six
last
;
within
alternately, until
bring the cotton forward, pearl
;
knit
back,
cotton
the
sixteen
last
of the
stitches
of the row, which are to be pearled.
end In
the
next row, knit the sixteen
stitches
the
at
beginning
and end which form the border, and reverse the pearled and knit stitches in the centre.
Repeat the seventeenth
when worked
to the size
and eighteenth rows with
required, finish
and
alternately,
border
the
as
at
the commencement.
The above may be
by
enlarged
by
of stitches that can be divided
casting on
any extra number
three.
A KNITTED MAT. Cast on forty-five stitches in fine twine row.
Cut some coarse yarn
lengths
into
and knit one
,
of about
plain
two inches,
and in the Second row needles, one
—knit
one
;
place a piece of the yarn between the
end on each side
;
knit
yarn between the needles, knit one
;
one, pass
the
end
repeat the same to
of the the
end
of the row, finishing with two plain stitches.
Third row
— —knit
plain knitting.
Fourth row
two, before placing the yarn, and continue as
n second row. It is better to
as
it
work
this
would be too heavy
mat
in lengths, and sew
to hold in the
hand
them
in one piece.
CLOSE STITCH FOR A WAISTCOAT, ETC.
To
be knitted in two colours,
—say
Cast on any uneven number of
claret
stitches.
together,
and
blue.
218
KNITTING.
First
row
—with
claret,
—knit
one
—knit
one
one
slip ;
;
repeat
the
to
end of the row. Second row one
pass
— with
claret,
;
wool back, knit one
the
;
bring the wool forward, repeat to
;
the
end
of
slip
the
row Third row
—with
claret,
slip
one
;
knit one
repeat to the end
;
of the row.
Fourth row
—bring
b^ck, knit one
the wool forward, slip one
the
pass
;
Fifth and sixth rows
—same
as
and second in
first
HONEYCOMB STITCH FOR A
blue.
BAG.
Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by First round at the
back
—bring
:
;
plain stitch at the
—repeat —
to the
end of the round.
repeat the
making one
first,
extra
commencement.
—plain —bring the
Fourth round round
five.
the wool forward, knit two together, taken
knit three
Second and third rounds
Fifth
wool,
;
repeat to the end of the row.
knitting.
wool forward,
knit
three
knit
;
two
*
together.
Sixth and seventh rounds
Eighth round
—plain
—same
knitting,
as the fifth.
making one
additional
stitch, to
bring the pattern correct in the next row.
baby’s hood.
Cast on
which are
fifty
to
stitches,
and knit eighty
be rolled up to form the
front.
plain
rows
;
sixty
of
KNITTING.
Sow
219
together three inches of the cast on part
;
and draw up
the remainder for the crown.
Cast on
fifty stitches for
the hood, and
work
forty plain rows.
No. 18 needles, and double German wool.
When
may
finished, it
be lined with white silk or
satin,
and
knit,
and
trimmed with narrow satin ribbon.
LONG SLEEVES TO WEAR UNDER THE DRESS. No. 14 needles, and six-thread embroidery
fleecy.
Cast on forty-two stitches very
alternately
loosely,
pearl, three stitches, for twelve turns.
Knit ten turns Knit
plain.
turns,
thirty-five
plain,
—increasing
one
stitch
on each
turn.
Knit twenty
turns,
plain,
—increasing
one
stitch
every
other
turn.
Repeat the twelve turns as at the commencement.
OPEN STITCH FOR A LIGHT SHAWL, D OYLEY, ETC. 7
Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three. First row
—bring the
the bacl%; slip one
;
wool forward, knit two together, taken at
repeat to the end of the row.
Every succeeding row
is
the same.
JARRETIERES. Cast on eighteen
stitches.
Knit in double knitting in rows backwards and forwards, until of the desired length.
220
KNITTING.
EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN KNITTING. To
on
cast
—The
of
interlacement
first
the
on the
cotton
needle.
To
cast
off.
— To
knit two
the second, and so
on
stitches,
to the
and
to pass
which
last stitch,
is
the
first
to be
over
secured
by drawing the thread through.
To To
To To
— To bring the cotton forward round the narrow. — To by knitting two the with the cotton seam. — To knit bringing the by making a widen. — To
needle.
cast over.
stitches together.
lessen,
before
a stitch
increase
round the needle, and knitting the same when
A To
A A
turn.
— Two
rows in the same
—To change from —The —A row when
stitch,
it
cotton
occurs.
backwards and forwards
the stitch.
turn.
row.
needle.
stitch,
stitches
one end of the needle to the other.
the stitches are on two, three, or more
round.
needles.
A
plain row.
To pearl a To
rib.
— To
To bring as to
A
—That
rov:.
work
stitch.
knit with the cotton before the needle.
alternate rows of plain
the thread
make an open loop
composed of simple knitting.
— To
forward.
— To
and pearl knitting.
bring the cotton forward so
stitch.
—Made
by bringing the cotton
before the needle,
which, in knitting the succeeding stitch, will again taKe^its own place.
To
slip
or pass a stitch.
other without knitting T<i
ends
—
fasten on
the
contrariwise,
For knitting with presented in the
—To
change
it
from one needle
to the
it.
best
way
and knit silk
or
to
fasten
on
is to
place the two
a few stitches with both fine
cotton,
annexed engraving),
will
a weaver's knot
be found the
together. (as best.
re-
KNITTING.
To
under
take
— To
.
pass
without changing
other,
Pearl seam ,
N.B. The
drawn It is
at
and
,
221
the cotton
from one needle to the
position.
its
rib-stitch.
—
all
signify the same.
sizes of the needles are
given according to the filiere
,
page 94.
necessary in giving or following directions for knitting, to
caution knitters to observe a
medium
in their
work
— not
knitting
either too loose or too tight.
HINTS ON KNITTING.
A
plain stitch at the beginning of each row, called
Gaugain an edge as
it
at
stitch is a great ,
makes an uniform edge, and the pattern
its
commencement.
most
In
by Madame
improvement in most
knitting,
instances,
kept more even
is
the
edge-stitch
is
slipped. It
said
is
young;
it
that
knitting should be taught
curious
is
to
persons handle the needle, It is
observe
who have
easiest to learn to knit
learnt
by holding
gers of the left hand; the position of the
when thus It is
when those
in childhood.
the wool over the fin-
hands
is
more graceful
held.
it
is
separate needle, cast
it
readily
always advisable to cast on loosely.
When the
children,
to
how much more
requisite it
is
to
cast
off,
and continue the row on a
sometimes better to run a coarse
off stitches ;
silk
through
they are easily taken up when required,
KNITTING.
222
and the inconvenience of the in
stance,
working
idle
needle
is
avoided,
—
as
for
in-
children’s shoes.*
* It is not perhaps generally known, that the crimson caps worn by tho Turks (some of which are occasionally seen in this country), are knitted. The Fez manufactory of Eyoub, at Constantinople, established by Omer Lufti “ As we passed Effendi, is thus described, from a recent visit by Miss Pardoe. the threshold, a most curious scene presented itself. About five hundred fe-
—
males were collected together in a vast
awaiting the delivery of the wool
hall,
and a more extraordinary group could not perThere was the Turkess with her yashmac haps be found in the world. folded closely over her face, and her dark feridjhe falling to the pavement; the Greekwoman, with her large turban and braided hair, covered loosely with a scarf of white muslin, her gay-coloured dress, and large shawl the Armenian, with her dark eyes flashing from under the jealous screen of her carefully-arranged veil, and her red slipper peeping out under the long wrapping cloak the Jewess, muffled in a coarse linen cloth, and standing a little apart, as though she feared to offend by more Immediate contact and among the crowd, some of the loveliest girls imaginable.” This establishment is on a very extensive scale, three thousand workmen being constantly employed. The wool is spread over a stone-paved room, where it undergoes saturation with oil; it is then weighed out to the carders, and afterwards spun into threads of greater or less size, according to the quality The women then receive it in balls, each of fez for which t is to be knit. containing the quantity necessary for a cap and these they take home by half a dozen or a dozen at a time, to their own houses, and on restoring them, receive a shilling for each of the coarse, and seventeen pence for each
which they were
to knit
;
:
;
:
;
of the fine ones.
The
fez afterwards undergoes various operations, such as felting, blocking,
when
assumes the appearance of a fine close cloth. It is then who- works into the crown the private cypher of the manufacturer, and affixes the short cord of crimson which is to secure the tassel of purple silk, with its curious appendage of cut paper. The last operation is that of sewing on the tassels, and packing the caps into parcels condyeing,
etc.,
it
carried to the marker,
taining half a dozen each, stamped with the imperial seal.
Fifteen thousand caps a tnonth are produced at the manufactory of Eyoub. must not close the subject of knitting, without briefly alluding to the productions of Barege, the Shetland Isles, and Sanquhar.
We
The
village
of Barege, situated
the foot of these lofty mountains, knitting,
is
on the French
side of the
Pyrennees,
at
celebrated for that peculiar description of
where various coloured wools, and sometimes gold and
troduced to form most elegant patterns.
The
silver, are in-
knitting from the Shetland
isles
*
KNITTING. is
very similar to that of Barege, but generally of one
223 uniform colour.
The
wool with which the real Shetland knitting is done, is peculiar to these islands, and spun by the peasants the particular race of sheep from which it is produced said to resemble those in the mountains of Thibet, more than any other is ;
Sanquhar, in Dumfriesshire, was formerly celebrated for its but that branch of industry received a fatal the commencement of the American w*ar, although it still affords em-
European breed.
manufacture of knit stockings*, check
at
ployment there
for
made
numerous
is still
much
families
prized.
j
and the
particular
description
of stocking
;
CHAPTER
XVIII
Netting-
*Not
which her vaunteth most of soft silken twyne; Nor aine weaver, which his worke doth boast In
aine damzell,
skilfull knitting
In diaper, in damaske, or in lyne;
Nor Nor
aine skild in
workmanship embost;
aine skild in loupes of fingring fine
Might
With
cunning ever dare networke to compare.”
in their divers this so curious
Spenser. “ Ideal
visits I
sitting netting in
posting round your sylvan walks, or
often pay you, see you
your parlour, and thinking of your absent friend.”
Seaward’s
N
museum
the
of Montbijou,
served specimens of the
nets
at
Letters.
Berlin,*
made by
above three thousand years since; and in are
—instruments
the present day.
similar
to
These nets are such as were used
* This collection of Egyptian antiquities
General Minutoli, and
is
pre-
this,
and
some of the needles they em-
other collections,
ployed in
netting
are
the Egyptians
those
for
of
fishing
was formed by M. Passalacqua and
one of the most curious in Europe.
225
NETTING. and fowling, but we are not
if
to
infer,
were ignorant of netting of a
age, they
we may
credit
the
ancient
that
even in
this
finer description
writers, their
:
remote indeed,
productions of this
kind far surpassed those of modern times.*
There
is
scarcely a hunter or a fisherman
stand netting in requisite are,
by which
—
rudest
its
and simplest
a pin or mesh,
their
size
is
who
style.
does not under-
The instruments
on which the loops are made, and
consequently
haped into a fork of two prongs
at
determined each
;
end, the
and a needle ends of the
Their nets were made of flax, and some of the threads used for them were remarkable for their fineness; so delicate were these nets, says Pliny, (lib. xviii. c. 2) “ that they would pass through a man’s ring, and a single person could carry a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius
Lupus who died while governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each which consisted of one hundred and fifty threads; a fact perfectly
string of
surprising to those
who
are not aware, that the Rhodians preserve to this day,
Temple of Minerva, the remains of a linen corslet, presented to them by Amasis, king of Egypt, whose threads are composed each of three hundred and sixty -five fibres and in proof of the truth of this, Mutianus, who was thrice consul, lately affirmed at Rome, that he had examined it; and the reason of so few fragments remaining, was attributable to the curiosity of those who had frequently subjected it to the same scrutiny.” Herodotus (lib. iii. c. 47) also mentions this corslet, and another presented by the same king to the Lacedaemonians. He says, it was of linen, ornamented with numerous figures of animals worked in gold and cotton. Each thread of the corslet was worthy of admiration, for though very line, every one was composed of three hundred and sixty other threads, all distinct; the quality being similar to that dedicated to Minerva at Lindus.” in the
;
—
16
NETTING.
226
prongs meeting, and forming a blunt point,
which
will allow of
the needle being passed, either end foremost, through a small loop.
The
twine wherewith the net
by passing
the needle
to be formed, is first
is
alternately between
it
end, so that the turns of the twine
of the needle, and be kept on
we
ments
whether material,
A
is
it
may
still
must
The
the twine.
made with
a long loop of twine,
close
up
to the
round the
must be held
left
the
but
manner
fingers,
represented), is to be passed
except
the little
The
needle
is
twine
from
embrace the
little
brought round
may form
in front of
a
The twine
.
thumb and
then passed back again
By
finger also.
m
one
left-hand
the
allowing the
the upper front of the pin. pin,
hand between the
hand, so that the twine
position between
in this
first
knot above-mentioned, and under
needle being neld in the right
all
or pin
,
forefingers (in the
loose loop over
The mesh
a knot to this loop.
under and
be
for ;
hand between the thumb and two
left
thumb and
will
process of netting
'
be
first
by
attached
and held
loop, to
these instru-
the same.
then taken in the
round the
each
be fixed to any support, one end of the twine on the
needle being
fingers,
With
the forks.
explain the
to
at
be parallel to the length
be for a fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s net or a plain purse of the finest
foundation
which
is
endeavour
will
it
by
it
may
wound upon
prongs
the
it
to
form a larger
this action the needle
the pin
;
and then must be
passed under the first loop, between the pin and the fingers hold-
ing
through the foundation loop
also
it
part
;
of
form the second in
its
position
loop.
more
it
and
by means of
is
in the
engaged. light hand,
thumb
is to
to
be held
the pin and the fingers, until the right
The all
over the
lastly,
This being done, the needle
hand can be brought round which
;
the twine which proceeds backwards from the
to
pull
needle
it
through the passage
being drawn
the fingers of
the left
out,
and
in
once
are to be dis-
NETTING.
227
engaged from the loops of the twine, except the
must
still
retain the second loop
which was formed round
this hold of
finger, the
means of
up
the
to
pin,
the
little
which
one,
little
By-
it.
twine must be
drawn
and the knot formed by these manoeuvres made
tight on the foundation.
A
process,
may
until
be made by a
is to
many have been formed on
as
some loops
by
these loops,
allowed
it
is
to be
to drop off
it
the
will
found hanging from the
be
knots, and sliding freely along
the pin
out, a
and
The
end.
row of equal
foundation
the
work
is
turned
over, so as to reverse the ends of that row, in order that in
that
in
which the
To commence again close
first
up
to
it
and
all
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;from
twine must
it.
be kept
left
to
right.
subsequent rows, place the pin last
row
the needle as before, only
of loops, that
instead
and of
through the loop of the foundation, pass
every new knot, through each
row already done, each knot being thus formed the loop above
net-
be done in the same direction as
bottom of the
the
to pass the needle
in succession, for
may
was made, namely,
this second
repeat the action with
having
it
by
attached
it.
Having thus formed one row of meshes, ting a second back again,
as
is filled,
to the right,
left-hand
row being done, and the pin drawn
wdiole
foundation
the
pushed on
at
of this
repetition
As
be necessary for the width of the net.
or covered
loops
of loops
succession
loop
at the
of the
bottom of
In using the needle, a sufficient quantity of
always unwound
off of
being moved freely round the pin and hand.
it,
to
allow
of
its
K2
NETTING.
The above engraving fore
illustrates the
knot made in netting,
tightened, showing the turns of the twine
is
it
be-
which form
it.
PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PURSE. Five skeins of coarse netting
silk,
and a mesh No.
13,
will
be
required.
Net
on a foundation
you have
continue
until
full-sized
handsome
tack up the
some
When
time.
gather
up
Dark colours.
purse.
opening
stretcher, as in the
of eighty
;
stitches
ten inches in
damp
When it
this will ;
done,
slightly
width,
the
for
length net
up the
and put
annexed engraving, allowing
it
it
to
and
make a
sides,
and
on a purse remain for
taken off the stretcher, untack the opening,
the ends, and put on the trimmings.
b*ue,
Drown, crimson, and green, aro the most serviceable
NETTING.
2‘*J
a lady’s PURSE.
Four
skeins of fine netting
with a mesh
silk,
No.
10,
;
are pretty
when
another.
Cerise
be
will
They
the purse should be about nine inches in length.
required
netted with five rows of one colour, and three of
and
harmonize well
slates
;
—middle
and
blue
yellow drab, green and stone colour, gold colour and brown, black
and
and
blue, light green
claret,
—
found good.
will all be
a gentleman’s purse with ends of different colours. This
will take
No. 13 mesh. dark
—
two skeins of each coloured netting
Commence on
green, net
with ponceau on the stitches to
turn.
— Net
loops are
the purse.
Bright
net
;
back
and
twenty-five
last stitch
meet the green
them
on
return.
;
net
— Commence
of the foundation, net
thirty-five
the green, and re-
loop the needle in
;
a
backwards and forwards until the whole of the green
filled
the needle
stitches, return
forty-fivk
and return
thirty-five
and
silk,
a foundation of eighty stitches with
up.
Make
into the green
— Damp French
the same pattern with ponceau, looping ;
four points of each are sufficient
and stretch blue,
for
as before.
and stone
and middle green,
colour, claret
drab and crimson, will make pretty purses.
a lady’s purse with points.
Four a
skeins of fine
foundation
stitches,
thirty,
ceau
of
netting
ninety
and return back
and return.
making
with a No. 9 mesh.
silk,
stitches
with
on them
stone
net ;
colour.
forty,
Net on Net
and return
fifty ;
net
Proceed as with the former purse, with pon-
five points of
each colour.
230
NETTING. A PRETTY PURSE
The number of the
One
SILK.
of stitches on the foundation depends
Net
silk.
with a chine
WITH CHINE
rows with a plain coloured
three
Repeat these rows
silk.
and two of chine
reel of plain,
on the
size
and
five
silk,
alternately.
be required.
silk will
NETTING WITH BEADS.
When
beads are to be introduced, a fine long darning needle
be used instead of the netting needle, for
to
Thread the needle with a
rows.
each
row, or
bead as required, and pass
and pass the silk
silk
it
sufficient
may
quantity of silk for thread
each
on the top of the mesh, net a
stitch
of a row, as
part
is
working the bead
be necessary ;
under the mesh, and through the bead, pass the
back again under the mesh, and draw the bead with
it,
which
leaves the bead on the knot.
A PLAIN
NETTED PURSE WITH A BEAD MOUTH.
Four skeins of extra are
required.
twenty
— Commence
stitches,
mouth of
and
the purse
is
silk,
made
piece as
seven
follows
inches :
plain;
—net
forty-two plain
two bead; two
one bead
plain,
forty-two plain ;
a
mesh
No.
6,
—the
in
The
width.
annexed engraving
it.
No.
row
First
and
with a foundation of one hundred and
net a
represents one side of
netting
fine
—
stitches ;
30.
one bead stitch
alternately eight
times;
;
one
one plain-
NETTING. Second row
—net
forty-five plain;
23 one plain,
three bead;
,
—
alter-
—
alter-
nately eight times; forty-five plain.
row
Third
—net
forty-six
plain;
two bead;
two
plain,
nately eight times; forty-six plain.
A PRETTY SEME PURSE WITH STEEL OR GOLD BEADS.
Four
skeins of fine netting
Commence on plain
In the
row.
silk,
and
a foundation of one
stitch alternately.
second
row, net
The next row
mence with the bead
is
No. 8 mesh.
a
hundred a plain
stitches.
stitch
Net one
and a bead
In the fourth row, com-
plain.
stitch.
AN ELEGANT NETTED PURSE WITH STEEL BEADS. This
will
mesh No.
3,
require four
dation are joined,
Net
skeins of the finest netting
with very small
—the
The ends
steel beads.
silk,
and a
of the foun-
purse being netted round.
four plain rows before the pattern
commences.
six sprigs of beads in the round, five stitches
There are
between each, as in
the following engraving.
No.
In the sprigs.
first
The
31.
half of the purse there will be seven rows of these pattern
is
then reversed, to form the other end
:
the
NETTING.
232
of the sprigs meeting each other.
points
purse commences with the is
row of the
fifth
The opening
of th*
The
pattern
pattern.
graceful in the netting, than can be represented on
much more
the diamonds of the engraving.
PLAIN NETTED MITTENS.
Commence on
a foundation
of forty-eight stitches with a No.
12 mesh, and five skeins of fine black netting
rows
plain
;
With
forms the loops for the ribbon. plain
rows.
and net the remaining stitches to
same place
the
as
Net
stitches.
mesh, net five
first
Net
one, increase again,
rounds,
sixteen
the
first
increase
Unite the stitches
stitches.
rounds for the
length
thumb, decreasing one or two stitches each round
With
the
second
mesh net two
Net one round, taking the two
stitches
stitches
together,
Net
two or three rounds on a
still
finer
make
the
hand of the
as are
increasing
form the thumb on every alternate round in the
tended for the thumb, net seven
close.
which
size,
In the next row unite both ends, and net one plain
round, increasing on the twelfth stitch.
two
Net four
silk.
then one row with a mesh double the
necessary to
mesh.
to
make every
in
and as
in-
of the it
set
loop.
finish with
many rounds
mitten, and finish
as
directed for the thumb.
Run
in the ribbon to tie at the wrist,
a knitterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bag
Net on or union
the
with
a foundation of sixty stitches cord,
and a mesh No.
depth desired, net in a
gilt
been previously covered with
16.
and trim with
ring.
with
When
ring, or
lace.
coarse
the
bag
netting silk is
of half
one of wire, which has
silk in button-hole
stitch.
Net the
— NETTING. other half of the bag. a
bow
233
be drawn up with a ribbon, and
It is to
or tassel placed at the bottom.
A CHECKED OR DICE PATTERN PURSE. «-
Two
skeins of second-sized netting silk of a bright scarlet, and
two of dark
Make
a
slate colour,
with a mosh No.
10, will
be required.
foundation of ninety-eight stitches, and commence with
seven stitches of silk to the
scarlet, netting
seven rows.
seventh stitch of the
first
Join the slate-coloured
row of the
and again
scarlet,
net seven more rows on the next seven stitches of the foundation,
looping
the
in
last
on each
stitch
scarlet
row.
Repeat these
squares of scarlet and slate colour, until the purse be sufficiently long,
— reversing
This it,
is
the squares.
not the usual
as being the easiest.
tern No. 30,
may
Whenever
the
way
A
of netting this purse, but
we
prefer
round star of seven beads, as in pat-
be effectively added in the centre of each square. silk is cu* off,
enough must be
left
to
make a
Wodver's knot with the next colour.
GRECIAN NETTING, OR FILET ROSE.
No.
This 9 and
is prettiest
worked with
18, are required.
fine
Net one
silk,
plain
32.
when two meshes, Nos.
row with the
large mesh.
NETTING.
234 In
next row, use the
the
put the
small mesh,
round the
silk
lingers as in plain netting, pass the needle through the finger loop,
into the
first
and from that pass
stitch,
the second through the second, and finish
the
first,
stitch
and again draw the
by pulling the
drawing your fingers from the finger be netted,
a small
is
is
to be repeated to the
last
first
silk
tight
and withstitch to
across the
movements form the
end of the row.
draw
through the
The next
loops.
loop that appears to go
These
twisted together.
into the second,
it
stitches
pattern,
The next row
is
which plain
netting with the large mesh.
This
may
be used for mittens, purses, curtains, scarfs, &c., of
course varying the size of the material and the meshes.
A PURSE IN GRECIAN NETTING.
Net with
ai
three
rows on a round foundation of
plain
fifty stitches,
No. 9 mesh.
In the next row, with a No. 18 mesh, net the stitch as described in the
When
preceding.
cient for one
as
many
patterns
are done as are suffi-
end of the purse, net the opening backwards and
forwards in plain netting on the small mesh, and finish the other
end with Grecian netting as
before.
MITTENS IN GRECIAN NETTING. Net
plain
six
black netting
No.
18, to
with
the
rows on a foundation of with a mesh No.
9.
Grecian
netting
as
fifty stitches
with fine
Net one row with a mesh
form the holes for the ribbon.
small mesh, and one
mence the mesh.
silk,
Net four plain rows
row with the large mesh. before
described, with
Com-
the small
Unite the two ends, and in the next round, increase by
NETTING.
235
netting two stitches in one in the sixteenth loop.
and increase again, and then continue
Net fourteen rounds of the
pattern, increasing as before in every
Finish by netting
net five rounds of the pattern. stitches
every loop, with the
in
Net one row, taking two
needle.
six stitches,
Unite the stitches intended to form the thumb, andt
third round.
mesh two
Net
end of the round.
to the
The hand
of plain netting. the same way.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Trim
loops
to
is
silk
on'
the No. 9
twice round the
together,
and three rows
be continued and finished in
the edges with lace.
NETTED FRINGE. With
a
stitches to
same. fringe
row.
No.
mesh, net the length required,
18
drop off on the left-hand end.
For the
row, take a
third
desired, the
flat
allowing the
Net another row the
mesh of the width of the
grooved edge being downwards, and net one
These loops are then
The
knotted two and two.
to be cut
;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;they may be
size of the
thus
mesh mentioned
is
left,
or
adapted
for a fringe of coarse cotton, or four-thread fleecy.
SINGLE DIAMOND NETTING.
No.
Net on alternate
a foundation stitch is to
twice round the mesh,
be
with fine
made
silk,
a loop
33.
and No. 10 mesh. stitch,
by putting
Every the
silk
— NETTING.
236
TREBLE DIAMOND NETTING. Net
three plain rows for the
First row
the
mesh
;
—make
;
—net
Third row require
;
—net
make
repeat to the end of the row.
a loop stitch
—net
;
;
make
a loop
repeat to the end of the row.
;
one or two plain
last alternately to the
Fourth row
then ;
the silk twice rouid
a plain stitch over the loop stitch
net two plain stitches
;
by putting
net three plain stitches
Second row stitch
commencement
a loop stitch,
stitches,
as the pattern
may
the
two
net a plain stitch
repeat ;
end of the row.
make
three plain stitches ;
a loop stitch
;
re*
peat to the end of the row.
N.B. Always withdraw the mesh before netting the loop This netting purse, about
is
best adapted for D’Oyleys, tidies, etc.
forty or forty-five
stitches
will
stitch.
If for a
be required for the
foundation.
DIAMOND NETTING OF FIVE STITCHES.
No.
Commence on First to the
row
a foundation of
—make
34.
any odd number of
stitches.
one loop stitch; net five plain, stitches
end of the row
—
finish
with a loop
stitch.
repeat ;
NETTING. Second row
—net
plain, over
one
loop
make one loop
stitch ;
out the mesh
slip
stitch
237
;
net four plain
;
repeat
;
—
finish
with a
slip
out the
plain stitch, over loop stitch.
Third row
mesh
—net
one plain
net three plain repeat ;
Fourth row
—
—net
out the mesh
slip
finish
;
Fifth row loop
—net
stitch
one plain
slip ;
—
stitch.
out the mesh
;
net
stitch.
two plain
;
repeat
;
—
;
net one
net one plain, over loop stitch
mesh
over
plain,
over loop
with a plain
finish
net one plain, over loop stitch
;
net one
;
stitch,
;
out the
slip ;
mesh
plain
repeat ;
;
one plain, over loop stitch
net ;
net two
plain, over loop stitch
a
with a plain
one plain
loop stitch
mesh
out the
slip ;
;
loop stitch
make one
;
;
make
out the
slip ;
with a plain
finish
stitch.
Sixth row
—net
two plain
net one plain, over loop stitch ;
net one plain, over loop stitch
a loop stitch ;
peat
—
finish
with a plain
Seventh row
make
—net
;
make
;
net one plain
re;
stitch.
two plain
net one plain, over loop stitch ;
net two plain
a loop stitch
repeat ;
;
—
finish
;
with a plain
stitch.
Eighth row
—net
over loop stitch
with a plain
Ninth row
slip ;
;
out the mesh
out the mesh
;
net one plain ;
;
net one plain repeat
—finish
stitch.
—net
over loop stitch
with a plain
Tenth row
two plain
slip ;
out thp mesh
slip ;
out the mesh
net one plain,
;
net one plain ;
;
repeat
—
finish
stitch.
—net
over loop stitch
make
three plain
slip
;
two plain
slip ;
;
slip ;
net one plain, ;
net one plain
a loop stitch
out the mesh
net one plain, over loop stitch
out the mesh
repeat ;
—
finish
;
with a plain
stitch.
Eleventn row over loop stitch
—net ;
one plain;
net two plain
slip ;
out the mesh; net one plain,
net one plain, over loop stitch
;
NETTING,
233
make
a*
loop stitch
out the
slip ;
stitch.
mesh
repeat
;
—
finish with a plain
1
Twelfth row net three
—net
plain
with a loop
one plain
;
net one plain, over loop stitch
net one plain, over loop
;
stitch
repeat ;
—
;
finish
stitch.
Commence
again as at
first
row.
SEME PURSE, DIAMOND PATTERN. Extra No.
netting
fine
silk,
with
steel
gold beads, and a mesh
or
3.
Net on a round foundation of seventy-two plain rows.
stitches
;
net four
In the next row, place a bead on every sixth stitch;
in the next, on every fifth and sixth stitch, and in the next, again
on every
sixth, so
as
to
form a diamond.
and repeat the pattern in beads, so
as to
Net four
plain rowT S
come in the centre
stitch
of the former rows.
The above
pattern
is
intended for the opening of the purse, in
may
beads, reversed in the centre.
It
different coloured stripes, each
alternate stripe
in steel beads.
also
be used for a purse in
having the pattern
NETTING.
239
PLAIN OPEN NETTING, OR FILET A BAGUETTE
No.
Commence with row of loop
36.
three or four rows of plain netting
stitches,
—made
by putting the
;
then one
twice round th®
silk
Repeat from the three rows of plain netting.
mesh.
FOND DE BERLIN. Le fond de Berlin
se tricote de la
autour du moule
;
au
vante, on la cherche
qui se trouve dessus la navette,
tiree
par
lieu
avec ;
et l’on tire
la,
de prendre tout de suite la
fay ant courbee un peu vers fortement
le
Apres
comme
il
la
il
s’en
prendre garde a
la maille sui-
la
elles
tension
du
Elle est achevee
oreille.
cela,
on passe
le fil
autour
vient d’etre enseigne, jusqu’a
sont toutes egales fil
celle
soi
Lorsqu’on pte
trouve alternativement de grandes et de
rangee suivante,
fois
on y passe La maille voisine un peu
de la rangee, en observant d’alterner.
fin
mailles,
Dans
fil.
s’avance et forme une petite
et l’on procede,
une
le fil
pointe de la navette a travers
aussitot de la maniere ordinaire.
du moule, ia
maniere suivante: apres avoir
quelques rangees de mailles ordinaires, on passe
fait
mais
il
les
petites.
faut bien
;
parce que de deux noeuds fun
NETTING.
240 doit etre
lacbe, lorsque la maille est
est tricotee
comme
un peu
qui est entrelacee, se trouve
celle
suivantes, elle
que
premiere rangee,
la
plus
est
grande, et se
rangee
troisieme
comme
la seconde,
la maille
voisine de
premiere, et la quatrieme
la
Dans
et ainsi de suite.
La
petite.
mais dans
etroite,
les
commodement
aussi
tricote
les autres.
FILET ROSE. C’est presque
de
et
faites,
comme
fil
fond
de
petite
oreille,
troisieme
La rangee a
tricotee
est
doit
a
semblable
filet
;
comme
suite, la
la
a
le
mais dans
La
dessus.
forme
la
d’une
f ordinaire
:
premiere, et ainsi de suite.
accoutumee, mais
de la maniere
tricote
se
etre
ce
de
tout
prenant
;
comme
qui se trouve
en
meme que
de
fait
suivante
seconde
la
telle
on met
autour du moule
faut la chercher,
il
fond de
ordinaires
filet-rose,
le
passer
le
qui se tend aussi
se
troisieme
sans maille,
a travers
Berlin,
voisine
la
une
le
de mailles
rangees
de commencer
?
tricoter
maille
la
y
s agit
qu’il
maniere que se tricote
quelques
a
de coutume,
avant de le
meme
de la
Lorsqu’il
Berlin.
premiere,
et
la
quatrieme
se continue de la sorte jusqu’a la
fin.
FILET A BATON ROMPU.
Une
fort
espece de
belle
En
un baton rompu. une
fois
du
autour
1’ ordinaire
la
filet,
c’est
celui
ressemble
qui
commenqant une rangee, on passe
moule, et
seconde se
la
sans
fait
maille
se
tricote
fil
comme
a
qu’il soit necessaire
;
le
a
autour du moule, mais
fil
premiere,
la
espece pair,
et
ainsi
de tricotage,
parce
qu’a
la
il
la
de suite
troisieme
doit
faut que les mailles
derniere
de
cbaque
Dans
pas etre passe autour du moule, lorsqu’il
soient
rangee, l’a
ete
de passer semblable
etre
alternativement.
le
a
a
le
en fil
cette
nombre ne
do'it
la premiere.
*
NETTING.
Quand
et
egales
a
une
maniere
a
finie,
se
il
L’on
deux.
sur
petite
la
semblable
fait
La
accoutumee.
la
du
fin
de grands et de
trouve une
grande
ensuite
mailles
les
rangee
troisieme
premiere, et la quatrieme
la
de suite jusqu’a ents,
rangee est
premiere
la
maille
241
a
la
seconde, et
Trois sortes de carres
filet.
est
ainsi differ-
de parfaits et de longs, se sucsedent
petits,
alternativement dans ce tricotage,
et
lui
donnent une
fort
belle
apparence.
FILET ROND.
Le
filet
rond
ference, qu’au
en
on
haut,
mailles
Partout
tricote
se
comme a
lieu de passer
deviennent rondes, et le
fil
V ordinaire, avee
une
navette dans
De
haut en bas.
de
passe
la
la
cette
dif-
maille, de
bas
cette
maniere,
beaucoup
le tissu reqoit
les
d’elasticite.
a fair d’etre tors.
NETTED MITTENS WITH SILK AND WOOL. First
round
—net
on a foundation of one hundred and twelve
stitches with black netting silk,
Second
round
—
mesh half an inch Third round first
plain
netting
No. 13 mesh. with
blue
over
wool,
an
ivory-
deep.
—with
silk,
—netting
two
stitches in one, with
the
mesh.
Fourth round
—same
as second.
Fifth and sixth rounds
Seventh round
—blue
—with
black
silk.
wool, with ivory mesh.
An
India-rubber
band, or a ribbon passes through this row, to secure the mitten at the wrist.
Eighth and ninth rounds
Tenth round
—blue
—black
wool, on
silk.
ivory mesh,
inch in width. IT
—one
quarter
of an
NETTING.
242
Repeat alternately two of black, and
one
of blue,
eight
for
rounds.
Tbe
nineteenth round
—
will
alternate rounds of silk
tinue the other
be two of black
and wool,
part in the same
or four rounds of black
silk,
—when
form the thumb, which
be united to
stitches are to
is
fifteen
netted
manner, and finish
in
Con-
until of sufficient length.
with three
silk.
NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL. First stitches,
and
mesh No.
on
a
foundation
of
ninety-six
and a
floss silk,
11.
Third row
German
—net
rows
second
and net one plain row with middle blue
—with
an ivory
mesh
wide, with
buff
mesh, net two stitches in one
with
half-an-inch
wool.
Fourth row
—with
small
wool.
Net fourteen rows
and small meshes
alternately with the large
for the inside half of the cuff.
Nineteenth,
twentieth,
and twenty-first rows
— in
dark
brown
wool.
Net two rows with the small mesh on blue rows
seven finish
of
wool, in
shades
silk,
from brown
to
alternately with light
buff,
and
with an edge as at the commencement.
This cuff
is
to be
sewn up
at the side, or it
may
be worked in
rounds.
The fancy
stitches
D’Oyleys, curtains, directions,
etc.
in
netting It
by merely using
is
are
easy
to
best
calculated
for
scarfs,
apply any of the above
the cottons, wools, and meshes, of the
size best adapted for the various purposes.
:
CHAPTER XIX Braiding
c<
Show me
Applique.
ani»
the piece of needlework you wrought.”
Beaumont and Fletcher.
RAIDING,
although
ornamental needlework, great beauty in
gold
and
and
is
— The
executed by
Greek
kind
simple
of
capable of
nevertheless
perfection.
silver,
inhabitants of the
the
most
the
costly
works
Turks and
the
islands, are
princi-
pally of this description.
Braid either
the
may
article
intermixed pattern (the possible),
be worked upon velvet, cloth, satin,
equally
is
the
with
suitable, according, as
work
is
gold, is
lines of
designed the
for;
it
may
be
and
material.
The
as
to
on velvet
The
recherche.
which should be kept curved
working, consists in keeping the braid or
adapted
but braiding
most elegant
must be drawn on the
or leather
silk,
much
principal
cord exactly in
as
art in
a
line
BRAIDING AND APPLTQUrf.
244 with
the
drawing, taking care that the
various
beauty of the work depends on making the pointed,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;which
their
extreme
equal
length.
Much
;
Every
stitches should be
the
piece
separate
finished,
the material, with
by passing
flat
and
end
through, and gold cord
side of the braid, the line
is
keep the braid, in every
to
within or without the line of the pattern, which,
be
under
intended
of the drawing
should be carefully preserved above that of the braid
must always be taken
at
and of an
regular,
of braid or cord must its
Where
a braid needle.
sewn on by the
to be
sharp turns
well
of the
must be done by properly' sewing the braid points
commenced and
are
scrolls
rounded and even, and the corners sharply turned.
if
and care
;
part, either
not attended
will completely destroy the effect of the design.
to,
Groups of braids ;
sometimes worked
flowers are
but this description of work arranged,
beautifully
it
has
is
common
a
most beautiful specimens are occasionally
The
prettiest
kind of braiding
companied, on one or both
work adapted
of
By
for
sides,
is
appearance
nevertheless
j
to be seen.
that where a silk braid
with a fine gold cord,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
bags, folios, sachets, boxes, note
is
ac-
a species
cases, &c.
a skilful admixture of different coloured braids with gold braid
union cord, in a vermicelli pattern,
may may
and where braid alone
can be varied by the
and
coloured
in different
very tedious, and unless
gold
cord,
a
splendid
is
effect
used,
of epine with gold passing, or It is
on, as,
it
be
produced.
Gold or
be tastefully introduced
silk.
preferable to use the silk of the braid itself for sewing
from
its
it
thus matching exactly in colour, the stitches can-
not so well be detected.
This
may
be done by cutting off a piece
of braid the length of a needleful of
thread as required. finished, should
;
addition
silk,
and drawing out each
All braid work, except that on velvet,
be passed under a
roller,
the
face
when
of the work
BRAIDING AND APPLIQUE. being covered with tissue paper:
much
beauty of
to the
Applique
is
colours, in the
form of flowers or other
at their
figures, are placed
This
edges with braids or cord. in
some instances with so much
has rivalled embroidery, and for
it
as cloth,
and
on the
which forms the ground, and are
work has been practised ingenuity, that
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
one or more pieces of different shapes
surface of another piece
wards secured
and adds
this flattens the braid,
appearance.
its
the laying of one material over another,
where
instance,
for
245
after-
style of
and
taste
many Turkish
designs seems almost preferable to any other kind.
may
Applique
be composed of pieces of cloth, velvet, satin,
shape of flowers,
or leather, cut into the
The
pattern should be
latter
may
If velvet, satin, or
thin
consist
also
paper pasted
at
which renders them
will
back, before
the
firmer,
above materials.
necessary to have a
be
applique
the
are to be carefully tacked
edges
worked with braid or
down on
cord, the
the
material,
colours of which
The
twisted silk
;
French knots.
leaves
may
These and the
may
be
but where flowers are intended to be
;
represented, a braid, the colour of the flower or leaf, ferred.
cut out,
is
and prevents their unraveling.
pieces
varied according to taste
it
for the
that forming the ground,
of either of the
be used,
silk,
upon
silk,
or other designs.
drawn upon the material intended
applique, and a corresponding one
which
scrolls,
be veined
with braid
and the centres of some flowers (See page 122.)
is
to be pre-
or cord, or with
may
be worked in
Vine leaves are peculiarly adapted
to this description of work, the tendrils of
which may be formed
of union cord.
For bags and
folios,
a
very pretty kind of applique
made, by using various coloured merino.
Velvet
applique,
silks
edged
may
be
on a ground of cachemir^or
with
gold
cord,
on
satin,
or
BRAIDING AND APPLIQUE,
246 velvet,
is
also suitable for bags, slippers, sachets, caps, pillows, etc.
edged
Satin,
leather, or
with
kid,
sometimes used
chenille, is
stamped with designs in gold
or
:
placed on
and may be further enriched, by the margin of the
cord,
being cut into
turned into a
circle at
or
scallops
Vandykes, and the
each point.
For
with good
effect,
may
when embroidery can be introduced
compartments, giving
a very rich
it
gold cord
table-cover borders, otto-
mans, and other large pieces of work, a set pattern
of the
morocco
also
when
should be edged with gold braid
satin, velvet, or cloth, the latter
leather
as ;
be used
into
some
and Persian-like ap-
pearance.
A
beautiful description of applique, combined with embroidery,
was much in vogue a few years
since, particularly for handscreens,
where the flowers and leaves were formed of embroidered with gold bullion.
were
made
others
flat,
leaves, carefully laid
with a
fine
silk ;
were
velvet,
and the
stalks
Some
of these â&#x20AC;&#x153; fleurs de fantaisieâ&#x20AC;?
raised
by numerous small velvet
one partly over the other, and tacked down
these leaves
(
lames de velours) required to be
accurately cut with a steel punch.
CHAPTER XX tOork.
“With
stones embroider’d, of a wondrous mass;
About the
border, in a curious
fret,
Emblems, impresas, hieroglyphics
set.”
Drayton.
IIE Germans excel
in
all
kinds of bead work,
some of which are extremely beautiful are as
principally applicable to small folios,
presse-papiers,
card
and
;
articles,
cigar
they such cases.
Purses and bags are made of beads, but their weight renders them sometimes objectionable.
The limits
paucity of colours in which this
terns, or for
description of
work
glass
beads
working flowers in neutral
tints
can be obtained,
gem, and
to arabesque, :
scroll pat-
other designs, such
as flowers and figures, are sometimes executed, but, from the
of the
proper shades, they are extremely defective.
want
The opaque
BEAD WORK.
248 turquoise beads, are
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;among
used
generally
the most beautiful of those manufactured,
grounds
the
for
an
opal
bead, lately intro-
;
duced,
extremely pretty intermixed with others.
is
Besides glass beads,
and
and
gilt
beads, are frequently used for
steel
for the sake of variety, being
latter,
dark purple
The
fine twisted
work
are generally taken
canvas on the
Beads of into
cotton thread
Half cross
by
kinds
with wool or
silk,
portions
principal
whether on cotton or
frequently with a pleasing
The
effect.
totally inadmissible
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
art,
at
silk
Germans
are
of gold and silver threads,
use of beads, however, in
if
to imitate paint-
we have any regard
is
not in good keeping
;
Germany, that
it
is
with
so gross an infringement of
the most beautiful bead
cotton
or
silk ;
but
it
is
infinitely superior.
tion of netting,
are
also
a
is
it
method of producing the same poses
work, as
raised
all
is
heavy
frequently done
in
the proprieties of art,
cannot be too scrupulously avoided.
Some of fine
for
but to enrich
parts of the drapery and other portions of the design with
of beads, or
worked
canvas, and not un-
when we wish
least,
the
of which
In historical subjects, even the admixture
the laws of good taste.
masses
silk,
two threads each way of the
commonly introduced by
are
the higher departments of the ing, is
from Berlin pat-
waxed sewing
usual method of working them.
slant, is the
all
a
used for this purpose in Ger-
is
or across
stitch,
patterns, the
their
the ;
tint.
designs for bead
many.
kind of work
this
sometimes manufactured of a
terns: the beads are attached to a canvas
but a
plain and cut,
beads, both
silver
work
is
done in
tricot ,
with a
more laborious and expensive
effect,
although for some few pur-
Purses made with beads, in imita-
very pretty, but perhaps more curious
than useful.
With
respect to beads,
it
may
not here be improper to observe
BEAD WORK. that a great difference
and
gilt
in
the quality of
all
cent, in their value
:
soits of steel
much
beads, causing a variation sometimes of as
or four hundred per first
exists
249
as three
who cannot
to those
at
perceive the difference, time will soon show the inferiority in
the wear of the one in comparison with the other.
Bead work may be done on canvas of to the size of the beads
the ;
several
sizes,
according
canvas usually employed measures
about thirty-eight threads to the inch.*
* It is, perhaps, not generally known, that all the glass beads used for needlework are manufactured at Murano, near Venice. Tubes of coloured glass are drawn out to great lengths and fineness, in the same manner as those of more moderate lengths are made in this country for thermometers; these are cut into
very small pieces, of nearly uniform lengths, on the upright edge of a fixed
These elementary cylinders are then put into a mixture of fine sand and wood ashes, where they are stirred about until their cavities get filled. This mixture is then put into an iron pan, suspended over a moderate fire, where, by being kept continually stirred, they assume a smooth rounded form. They are then removed from the fire, cleared out in the bore, and strung in bunches, chisel.
constituting the beads as
we meet with them
of these beads, packed in casks, are exported to
in commerce. all
Great quantities
parts of the world.
:
CHAPTER XXI NccMcroork of
tlje
©nglisl) (Slacens ani> princesses.
u And, round about, her worke she did empale
With a faire border wrought of sundrie Enwoven with an yvie-winding trayle
A
goodly worke,
Such That
as
dame
full fit for
flowres,
kingly bowres
Pallas, such as
Envie
j
pale,
all good things with venomous tooth devowres, Could not accuse.” Spenser.
M She wrought so well in needle-worke, that shee,
Nor
yet her workes, shall ere forgotten be.”
John Taylor.
HEN tents
this
volume was commenced, a
was framed,
to
list
which we intended
of con-
to adhere,
and each chapter has been written in accordance
The
with the plan. in
covered
that
the
steps
of
its
we had already exceeded
present
one was proceeding
predecessors,
when we
the limits proposed, and
dis-
we
—
—
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS. ere
unwillingly obliged
more
subject
much
deed of
treat
to
briefly than
was
this
interesting
portion
of our
at first intended, to the sacrifice in-
valuable material.
In a former chapter, mention has been
daughters of
the four
251
Edward
made of
the
works of
the Elder, as also of the astonish-
ing labours of Matilda, consort of William the Conqueror.
The
— Adelais,
duke
second wife of Henry of Lorraine,
mention
The
is
—was
made
I,
the daughter of Godfrey,
celebrated for her needlework
Bishop Burnet,
“ she
“ In
the third act of his
Henry VIII
and Campeius, are introduced
,
Take thy
also,
lute
represents Katharine as engaged
The
her presence.
to
my
wench:
in
the
“ Needles
celebrated for her needlework “
Shakspeare, in
scene
com-
:
Sing, and disperse them, if thou canst
Taylor,
greatness,’*
with her women, when the two cardinals, Wolsey
at needlework
mences with
her
wrought much with her own hands,
and kept her women well employed about her.”*
Q. Kath.
and an especial
queen of Henry VIII, Katharine of Arragon, devoted
first
most of her leisure hours to needlework. says
;
of an embroidered standard, of her work.
I
Read
soul
grows sad with troubles:
leave working.
:
Excellency,”
speaks
:
that in the seventh
King Henries
raigne,
Daughter of the Castile King, Came into England with a pompous traine Of Spanish ladies, which she thence did bring. Fair Katharine
She
,
to the eighth
And
King Henry married was,
afterwards divorc’d, where vertuously
(Although a Oueene), yet she her days did passe In working with the Needle curiously,
* “
History of the Reformation/’
p.
192.
of her
as
;
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS.
252
As
Towre, and places more
in the
beside,
Her excellent memorialls may be seene Whereby the Needle’s prayse is dignifide
By
her faire Ladies, and herselfe a Gtueene.
Thus far her paines, here Her workes proclaime her
her reward
is
iust,
prayse, though she be dust.”
Anne Boleyn, who was educated
Court of Francis
at the
I,
de-
voted a large portion of her time to the occupation of the needle, in working tapestry.* Sir
Thomas
Chaloner, in his elegy on
mends her not only
for her beauty,
Lady Jane Grey, com
but also for that which was a
greater charm, her intelligent and interesting style of conversation.
He
speaks of her stupendous
in eight,
— the
and
Italian,
well
grounded.
besides
He
skill in
Greek,
Latin,
that
of her
further
languages, being well versed
Hebrew, Chaldaic, Arabic, French, native
land,
in
which she was
observes that she was a proficient in
instrumental music, wrote a beautiful hand, and was as excellent
her needle, f
at
“
Of broken workes wroght many
a goodly thing,
In castyng, in turnyhg, in florishing of flowres,
With
*
burres rowgh, and buttens surffyllyng,
Anne Boleyn,” vol. 125. Peter de p. known by the name of Brantome), in his MeDames illustres,” informs us, that Anne de Bretagne, the mother
Vide Miss Benger’s “ Life of
Bourdeilles (more
moires des
i.
generally
assembled three hundred of the children of the under her personal superintendence, they were instructed in the accomplishments becoming their rank and that the girls devoted a great portion of their time to the working of tapestries.
of Claude, wife of Francis
I,
nobility at her court, where,
:
t In the
Town
Library at Zurich, are three autograph Latin
letters
of
Lady
Jane Grey, addressed to her preceptor Bullinger, in a beautifully clear and a few grammatical errors have been remarked in them. There regular hand is also a toilet, embroidered by her, which she presented to Bullinger. ;
—
:
;
:
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS.
253
In nedell worke, rasyng byrdes in bowres,
With
Of
vertue enbased
all
tymes and howres.”*
needlework of Queen Mary, we have
the
now no
but from the following sonnet of John Taylors, that
some of her labours were in existence in his
traces,!
would appear
it
time.
“ Aer daughter Mo^ry here the scepter swaid,
And .der
though shee were a Queene of mighty power,
memory
Which by
will never be decaid,
her workes are likewise in the Tower,
In Windsor Castle, and in Hampton Court, In that most pompous roome call’d Paradise
Who
euer pleaseth thither to resort,
May
some workes of hers, of wondrous price. it no dis-reputation To take the Needle in her Royall hand Which was a good example to our Nation To banish idleness from out her Land. And thus this Glueene, in wisdome thought it fit, The needles worke pleas’d her, and she grac’d it.”
Her
Queen
see
greatnesse held
Elizabeth, like her
sister
Mary, has
by
the same author for her needlework.
at
Oxford,
is
preserved a copy of the
binding of which
when
also
In the Bodleian Library Epistles
of St.
said to have been embroidered
is
been extolled
by
Paul,
the
that queen
princess. i
“
When
this great Glueene,
By any terme For when the Yet
shall
whose memory
shall not
of time be overcast world, and
all
her glorious fame
Crowne of Lawrell. In the Library of the British
therein shall rot
for ever last.
* Skelton’s 1 It
is
highly illuminated
;
Museum
is
preserved
Queen Mary’s Psalter. was once a
the exterior bears the remains of what
binding of splendid embroidery.
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS.
254
When From
many
she a maid, had
troubles past,
by Maries angry spleene; And Woodstocks and the Tower in prison fast, And after all was England’s peerlesse Queene. Yet howsoeuer sorrow came or went, She made the Needle her companion still,
And
Iayle to Iayle
in that exercise her time she spent,
As many
A
Needle
great
Royall and renown’ d.”
imprisonment
her solace
those
at
At
reading and composition. Scotland, she gave
skill,
of Scots, needlework was a great source of
During
her
afforded
her
a Captive, or else crownd,
still
woman
To Mary, Queen amusement.
know
living yet doe
Thus she was
the
Tutbury
at
not
intervals
time she held
day
four or five hours every
Castle,
it
devoted
to
her court
in
to state affairs j
she was
have her embroidery
accustomed to
frame placed
room where her privy council met, and while she
the
needle,
she
listened
to
discussions
the
her
of
in
plied her
ministers,
dis-
playing in her opinions and suggestions a vigour- of mind and a quickness
her
of perception which
astonished the statesmen around
times, she applied
herself to literature, particularly
at other ;
poetry and history.* tunate
queen
Scotland.
are
At
Several pieces
preserved
Mary
castles
of
formerly
At Holyrood
;
of this unfor-
the a
nobility
splendid
in
bed
but this was unfor-
Palace, in her chamber
shewn a box covered with her needlework.
Of
the industry of
some remains favourite
‘
possible
all
Queen Mary, Princess of Orange, we have
in the palace at
her c
of the work
Stuart and her ladies
tunately burnt by accident. is
the
House, was
Allanton
embroidered by
in
amusement.
methods
for
“
Hampton She
Needlework was
Court.
used,”
Bishop
says
reforming whatever was amiss
Mrs. Jameson’s Memoirs of
celebrated
Female Sovereigns
,
vol.
i.
;
Burnet^ she took
p. 243.
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS. ladies
from that
off
and
read
to
to
which not only wasted their time,
idleness,
many
but exposed them to
work
temptations.
She engaged many both
wrought many hours
she ;
255
a-day herself,
with her ladies and her maids of honour working about her, while
one read to them
all.
The
female part of the court had been, in
the former reigns, subject to
cause for
it
but she freed
:
was not
picion, that there
that sort
much
so
much
and there was great
censure ;
her courts
so
from
entirely
as a colour
all
have
The and
Queen
late
amusing her
seemed
proper employment.â&#x20AC;?*
its
was
of
she did divide her time so regularly, between her closet
:
and business, her work and diversion, that every minute to
sus-
for discourses
Charlotte was exceedingly fond of needlework,
solicitous
that
the princesses should excel in
In the room in which her Majesty used to
art.
family, were
some
cane-bottomed
chairs,
same
the sit
with
and when playing
about, the princesses were taught the different stitches on this rude
As they grew
canvas. in
this
older,
a portion of each
day was spent
employment, and with their royal mother as their com-
panion and instructress, they became accomplished needlewomen.
The Queen wore on the
coming of with silver
age. ;
the wearers. silk for the
executed. at
herself embroidered the dresses
fete
given
which the princesses
on the occasion of the Prince of Wales
These dresses were in white crepe, embroidered
they were exceedingly elegant, and so we are told were
Her Majesty
Dacca
likewise embroidered a dress in
Princess Royal, which was tastefully and Several sets of chairs, some of which
may
beautifully still
be seen
Frogmore and Windsor, likewise show the superiority of the
royal needlework.
These were the labours of her younger days,
but Her Majesty afterwards amused her leisure
History of his
own Time,
hours with knit-
vol. iv. p. 225.
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS.
$c,56
amount of work
ting and knotting, and the
Towards
marvellous.
thrown
her
of
authority)
The
subjects
profited
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the
Queen
so done
of a queen.
labours
the
the beautiful
and other and
patience,
Princess
was
also
of
at
of
Stuttgart,
and elaborate specimens of needlework, covering
chairs, sofas, screens,
The
much
ornaments
principal
are
skill,
were
indisputable
of Wiirtemberg, devoted
handsome palace of the King of Wiirtemberg
the
perfectly
to knitting, the
the
of
is
works
finer
life,
informed on
are
Among
needlework.
to
we
(as
by these
Royal,
Princess
time
her
her
of
close
and Her Majesty taking altogether
aside,
poorest
the
articles of furniture, all
the
of
taste
specimens
lamented
late
queen.
Sophia particularly excelled in needlework, and occupation
favourite
the
of
the
Princesses
it
Augusta
and Amelia.
The self
to
own
Mary, Duchess of Gloucester, daily amuses
Princess
with
her
needle
which
she
does
any
;
We
hands.
and scarcely a charity bazaar
not
believe
however
assistance,
some of the work of her
contribute that
Her Royal Highness
trifling,
herheld,
is
in
the
refuses even
once
she
labours
undertakes.
The work done by
now
widely
an anger ladies
of
Duchess of York,
the late
The
dispersed.
but she was assisted
all,
Her
and protegees.
labours
magnitude, as almost to defy
at
Oatlands,
Duchess was the projector
belief.
in the
execution by her
various
are so
and of such
Berlin patterns were then
unknown, or but just invented, and her designs were on
In
canvas.
the
Palace,
are
a
sofa
Royal Highness. side
and
out,
one
and
The
of six
backs,
are entirely
back and seat of the sofa
the
of is
elbow
ante-rooms chairs,
seats, sides,
needlework. a
is
and
the
at
all
drawn
Buckingham
work
of
and borders, both
The
Her in-
pattern on the
basket turned on one
side,
out
;
NEEDLEWORK OF THE ENGLISH QUEENS. of which
surrounded with a border of various leaves
are
;
in
different
shades of green
shamrock, and the
stitch ;
arranged as to extend over the
falling, so
flowers are
these
centres
257
The
thistle.
ground
:
and
flowers
German
in
is
amongst which are the ivy, borders
are
There
stitch.
vine,
in
tent
a
deep
is
border in front of the sofas and chairs, in marron, with a kind of arabesque, or rather
that
time of Louis Quatorze
the ground of this
;
tremely rich, and the colours on that the effect outside,
are
colour, but we suppose
the sofa, and
cution
;
they are
they are
all
to
alike
done in
by
furniture worked
it
but
different,
ex-
of the sofa, both inside and
The ground
match.
to
is
in the
are so thoroughly brought out
it
The ends
is perfect.
worked
much used
border
of
style
have been white beautiful
in
now
a
cream
chairs
match
and exe-
taste, design,
There was
silk.
;
is
the
also another set of
Duchess of York, consisting of
chairs,
ottomans, and sofas, in tent stitch, drawn out on satin, and
we do
not
know
of any
Did we not Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
work
fear to
retirement,
and useful labours.
and making guests
come
The
at
it
splendid
in fil tire previously to this date.
intrude on the sacred threshold
of
Queen
how much might be said of her extended Her introduction of needlework as a fashion,
a requisite to those ladies
her court,
skilled
the
caused
many
to
who were
admire, and
the invited in
time
be-
taken up for
convenience.
works which might be cited of many
ladies of the
in that which was only
present day would never perhaps otherwise have been in existence and, through
this,
thousands
in
the
humbler ranks of
been and are supported, not to mention that taste are daily called forth
We
much
have
life
ingenuity and
which might have been unknown.
understand that Her Majesty and her Royal Highness the
Duchess of Kent are admirers of needlework, and patronise IS
it.
CHAPTER XXII Conclusion.
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.
11
Taylor, their better Charon, lends an oar,
Once swan of Thames, though now he
no more.”
sings
Pope’s Dunciad,
N the “
water-poet,
The
edition
extremely
rare,
we
we have frequently
the course of this volume,
quoted from a poem,
written
and prefixed
by John Taylor,
to a work, entitled
Needle’s Excellency, of which the twelfth
was published in 1640.
are tempted to reprint this
This work being
poem verbatim from
the original edition.*
* A copy of this book was in the collection of the late Francis Douce, Esq. which he bequeathed to the Bodleian Library, at Oxford. It is an oblong “ The Needle’s Excellency A New Booke The title runs thus quarto. wherein are diuers Admirable Worlces wrought with the needl?. Newly Inuented and cut in Copper for the pleasure and profit of the Industrious. Printed for James Boler, and are to be sold at the Signe of the Marigold in Paules Church :
yard.
The
—
12th Edition enlarged with diuers
new workes
as needleworkes
::
;:
;
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.
*259
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE. u
’
To
and trades, J writ the needles prayse (that never fades) So long as children shall be got or borne, So long as garments shall be made or worne, So long as Hemp or Flax or Sheep shall bear Their linnen woollen fleeces yeare by yeare So long as Silk-wormes, with exhausted spoile, all
dispersed sorts of arts
Of their own Entrailes for mans gaine shall toyle Yea till the world be quite dissolu’d and past So long
at least, the Needles use shall last: though from earth his being did begin, Yet through the fire he did his honour win And vnto those that doe his service lacke, Hee’sf true as steele and mettle to the backe.
And
He
hath
Yet
like
I
per se eye, small single sight,
a Pigmy, Polipheme in fight:
As
a stout Captaine, bravely he leades on, (Not fearing colours) till the worke be done, Through thicke and thinne he is most sharpely set, With speed through stitch, he will the conquest get And as a souldier Frenchefyde with heat, Maim’d from the warres is forc’d to make retreat So when a Needles point is broke, and gone, No point Mounsieur, he’s maim’d, his worke is done And more the Needtes honour to advance, It is a Taylors Iavelin, or his Launoe;
purles
&
others neuer before printed.
1640.”
On
the
title
page
is
an engrav-
ing of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdome, Industrie,
and Follie. “ The praise of the Needle,” as given above, is prefixed to the work, then “ Here follow certaine Sonnets in the Honorable memory of Queenes and great Ladies, who have bin famous for their rare Inventions and practise There are six sonnets to Glueen Elizabeth, the Countess of Pembroke, and others some of which we have quoted in the preceding chap-
with the Needle.”
;
ter.
The
seventh
is
—
addressed “
To
all
degrees of both sexes, that love or liue
by the laudable imployment of the needle.” served in the Library of the British
Museum.
Another copy of It
this
book
is
pre-
appears to have gone through
and its scarcity is accounted for by the supposition, that such books were generally cut to pieces, and used by women to work upon or
twelve impressions
;
transfer to their samplers.
:
:
:
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.
260
And
for
my
Countries quiet,
I
should
like,
That women-kinde should vse no other Pike. It will
To
increase their peace, enlarge their stor
use their tongues
The Needles
lesse,
and
Needles more,
their
sharpenesse, profit yeelds, and pleasure,
But sharpenesse of the tongue,
bites out of
measure.
A
Needle (though it he but small and slender) Yet it is both a maker and a mender
A
graue Reformer of old Rents decay d,
Stops holes and seames and desperate cuts displayd,
And
We No No No No No No No
thus without the Needle
we may
see
should without our Bibs and Biggins bee;
Smockes, our nakednesse to hide,
shirts or
garments gay, to make us magnifide shadowes, Shapparoones, Caules, Bands, Ruffs, Kuffh, Kerchiefes, Gluoyfes, Chin-clouts, or Marry-Muffes, cros-cloaths,
Aprons, Hand-kerchiefes, or Falls,
Table-cloathes, for Parlours or for Halls,
no Towels, Napkins, Pillow-beares,
Sheetes,
Nor any Garment man or woman weares. Thus is a Needle prov’d an instrument
Of profit, pleasure, and of ornament. Which mighty Gtueenes haue grac’d
And That
The
in
hand
to take
high borne Ladies such esteeme did make, as their Daughters Daughters
up did grow
Needles Art, they to their children show.
And
as 'twas then an exercise of praise, So what deserves more honour in these dayes, Than this which daily doth itselfe expresse, A mortall enemy to idlenesse. The use of Sewing is exceeding old, As in the sacred Text it is enrold v
'l
Our Parents
Who
first
in Paradise began,
man The mothers taught their Daughters, Thus in a line successively it runs hath descended since from
For generall
profit,
and
to
for recreation,
From generation unto generation. With work .ike Cherubims Embroidered ;
The Covers And by the
man:
Sires their Sons,
rare,’
of the Tabernacle were.
Almighti’s great command, we see, That Aarons Garments broydered worke should be;
:
;
:
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.
261
And
further, God did bid his Vestments should Be made most gay, and glorious to behold. Thus plainly, and most truly is declar’d
The For
As
needles worke hath it
bin in regard,
still
doth art, so hke to natvre frame,
if it
were her
Sister, or the
same.
Fiowers, Plants, and Fishes, Beasts, Birds, Flyes, and Bees, Iiils,
Dales, Plaines, Pastures, Skies, Seas, Rivers, Trees
There’s nothing neere at hand, or farthest sought,
But ^ith the Needle may be shap’d and wrought In clothes of Arras
I
have often seene,
Men’s figurd counterfeits so like haue beene, That if the parties selfe had beene in place, Yet art would vye with natvre for the grace. Moreover, Poisies rare, and Anagrams, Signifique searching sentences from names,
True History,
or various pleasant fiction,
In sundry colours mixt, with Arts commixion, All in Dimension, Ovals, Squares, and Rounds,
Arts
life
included within Natures bounds
So that Art seemeth meerely
naturall,
In forming shapes so Geometricall
And With
though our Country everywhere is fild Ladies, and with Gentlewomen, skild
In this rare Art, yet here they
Some
things to teach
Thus
skilfull, or unskillfull,
may
discerne
them if they list to learne And as this booke some cunning workes doth teach, (Too hard for meane capacities to reach) So for weake learners, other workes here be, As plaine and easie as are
ABC.
This booke, and of
may take may make,
each
each good use
it
All sortes of workes, almost that can be nam’d,
Here
And From
how
are directions for this
they
may
be fram’d
kingdomes good are hither come,
the remotest parts of Christendome,
much paines and industry, From scorching Spaine and freezing Muscovie From fertill France and pleasant Italy From Poland Sweden Denmarke Germany Collected with
,
,
And some
,
,
,
of these rare Patternes haue beene
Beyond the bonds of
i
,
faithlesse
24
Mahomet:
fei
j
,
,,
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.
262 Prom
And
spacious China, and those
Kingdomes
East,
from Great Mexico the Indies West.
Thus
are these workes, farre fetcht,
and
dearely bought,
And
consequently good for Ladies thought. Nor doe I degrodate (in any case)
Or doe esteeme of
other teachings base,
For Tent-worke Raisd-worke Laid-worke Frost-worke Net-works, Most curious Furies or rare Italian Cutworke, Fine Feme-stitch, Finny-stitch New-stitch and Chain-stitch, Braue Bred-stitch Fisher-stitch Irish-stitch and Queen-stitch The Spanish-stitch, Rosemary -stitch, and Moivse -stitch, ,
,
,
,
,
,
,
The
smarting Whip-stitch, Back-stitch,
All these are good, and these
And And
&
the Crosse-stitch ,
we must
allow,
these are everywhere in practise now. in this Book, there are of these
With many Here
And
,
,
others,
some
store,
neur seene before.
Practise and Invention
may
be
free,
as a Squirrel skips from tree to tree,
So maidt may (from
their Mistresse, or their
Mother)
Learnt; to leaue one worke, and to learne an other,
For her * they make may choyce of which is which, s) p from worke to worke, from stitch to stitch,
And
Vntil, "i time, delightfull practice shall
make them
perfect in them all. workes may haue this guide, ornament, and not for pride:
(Witt
orofit)
Thus
loping that these
To To
s
iue for
'merish vertue, banish idlenesse,
For these ends, may
this
booke haue good successe.”
Taylor was a very remarkable eccentricities, th.j
)
lis 3
;
and among other of his
Highlands, with a horse and servant, without a penny in his
*cket,
]
man
he undertook to perform a journey from London to
and engaging not
to
receive
any
alms.
The account
of
journey, which he wrote partly in prose and partly in verse,
a very remarkable picture of the manners of that period.
He
ras
welcomed by the hospitality of his countrymen throughout
this
journey, and he appears not only to have suffered very few
privations, but to
have fared sumptuously
Winstanley, in his
“
Lives of the
for
many
Poets” says, “
weeks.
He was
born
THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE. in Gloucestershire, where
bound apprentice yet though
it
to a
he went to school
;
263
and was afterwards
waterman of London, a laborious trade
be said that ease
is the
:
and
nurse of poetry, yet did he
not only follow his calling, but also plyed his writings, which in
time produced above fourscore books, which I have seen several others
unknown
King James and Kang
to
me
;
besides
some of which were dedicated
;
Charles
I,
meanness of his education to produce works of
sidering the
to
and by them well accepted, conin-
genuity.”*
* Sir
Egerton Brydges, in the
*
Censura
the "Water-poet’s pieces; and in his
‘
Litteraria,’
Restituta’ the
has given a long
same
list
of
diligent explorer of
the recondite and dusty paths of literature, has laid before us another of his
marvellous exploits, together with an abstract of another work of Taylor’s not -
entered in the
“This
‘
Censura.’
scarce tract
is
entitled,
‘John Taylor’s
performed from the twentieth of July
last,
In which time he passed, with a
last
Voyage and Adventure,
1641, to the tenth of September fol-
sculler’s boat, from the citie of Lonand townes of Oxford, Gloucester, Shrewsbury, Bristol, Bathe, Monmouth, and Hereford. The manner of his passages and entertainment to and fro, truly described. With a short touch of some wandring and some fixed such as are Brownists, Anabaptists, Famalies, Humorists, and schismatiques Foolists, which the author found in many places of his voyage and journey. Printed at London by F. L. for John Taylor, and may be had at the shoppe ” of Thornes Baites in the Old Baily, 1641 8vo., pp. 32.’
lowing.
don
to the cities
;
,
t
SUPPLEMENT TO THE
HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK.
FROM
HUBS.
$
T.
B.
wm
©MKBMJT AOT)
Ij
il a b 1
1
p
I)
x
a
.
:
PETERSON AND BROTHERS, 306
CHESTNUT STREET.
I
\
V
;
PREFACE.
In introducing
this
little
Mrs. Gaugain has nothing tion of for
what she has
Work to
before said
to the notice of the public,
announce farther than a
— that nothing more
an inexperienced pupil of moderate capacity
is
repeti-
requisite
to enable her to
execute any of the following elegant designs, than a knowledge of the elementary stitches of Knitting,
used in forming a stocking:
seam
or
stitch,
which any
a take-in
child
may
viz.
stitch,
which are simply those
—a plain
a back stitch*
stitch,
and an increase
stitch,
—
all
of
be taught in the short space of half an
hour. It
may
not be here out of place to mention, that
all
the terms
used in this book will be found explained on the folding leaf or table,
and
*
A
which can be extended while working any of the
will thus save
back
form a line
stitch
down
much
by many
receipts
trouble in turning over the leaves.
knitters
is
termed a seam
a stocking, in imitation of a seam.
stitch,
from
its
being u sed to
*3
U
15 IS
THE KNITTING RECEIPTS.
SIGNS USED IN
A, take in three loops into one, by slipping the
loop off backwards,
first
without knitting ; knit the second and third loops together, then
the
lift
first
over the taken-in loop. B, a back, ribbed, seam, or pearl
wool
in front of pin
wool
in front, before
B3
all
;
commencing the
or B6, three or six
stitches to
stitch,
by
knitting
off backwards with
it
back or pearled stitches must be done
back
(having
so,
stitch.)
stitches; the figures indicate the
number of
be worked.
O, make a
by
stitch,
bringing the thread to the front, (by passing
it
under
the right wire, to the front.)
Ob, make a back or pearled
stitch,
by
casting the thio&d quite round the
wire.
P, a plain stitch or loop.
P2
or P4, two, or four plain stitches or loops, as the figures
work a back
may
be.
you were going
S, slip stitch, take off a stitch without working, as if
to
stitch.
S2, slip two stitches off without working.
T
take in (or narrow) stitch, by knitting two loops togedla*
Ts, take
in,
by
slipping the
first
loop
;
knit the next
;
slip the first
over
the knit one. j^,
take in back stitch, by pearling two together, having the wool in front.
Row,
signifies
Round,
a
row
a
row from one end
quite round,
when
of pin to the other.
the work
is
done on more wires than
tw6.
Plain row, a row Back,
or
all
plain stitcfces.
pearl row, a row worked exactly contrary
Front row, is worked with the thread Back row, with the thread in front. Bring forward,
Cast second
way
;
till
off,
by
bring the thread in front, so as to
knitting the
two
to the plain
row
behind.
first stitches, slip
the
make
an open stitch*
first stitch
over the
knit a third, and slip the second over the third one; continue in this
the whole
is
cast
off.
-
MINIATURE
KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET BOOK
KNITTING.
QUEEN VICTORIA LONG PURSE.
Worked
m stripes, running round the
white, or fawn.
If for
For a gentleman, black and
twist.
and 2 hanks each
Purse, of mazarine blue and
a brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s purse, white silk and extra fine gofd
Two
cerise colour.
pins,
No.
19,
colour, are required.
Cast on 90 stitches with mazarine blue. 1st
Row, Ob,
repeat to end of row.
jl,
2nd Row,
plain.
3rd
Row,
plain.
4th
Row,
pearl.
5th
Row, with White,
6th
7th
Row, *0, plain Row, plain.
8th
Row,
Ob, repeat
Cast
first
end
all
but 2 stitches, work them
it
row with white and blue
off ;
damp and
up a
third for each side of
rows
for
0,
to
each end
stretch
Purse
attach tassels
;
it
until
you have 9 inches
on a stretcher until dry
draw up the
cast-on
and rings of gold or
and
;
sew
cast-off
steel.
;
bnng
j^.
the rest of row.
pearl.
Repeat from worked.
j,,
all
the thread before the wire to
make 19
the O, then
work the
plain row.
274
KNITTING.
LONG PURSE, PRETTY OPEN This very pretty Purse
is
worked
in shaded silk, or plain.
hanks of any colour of second sized purse 19 are required.
(It
is
much
STITCH.
silk,
enriched, and looks well with steel or
one bead between the
gold beads in every other row
r ;
When
worked,
damp and
pin
it
out
till
dry
going purse, by drawing up the cast-on and
72
Three
and two wires of No.
;
make
it
up
cast-off ends,
T
and P.)
as the fore-
&c.
Cast on
stitches.
1st
Row, O, T,
2nd Row, Ob,
P, repeat to end.
B.
Repeat as these two rows, If a fine Purse
is
until
you have 9 inches worked.
wished, the third-sized twist, and wires No. 21
are required.
SET OF OPEN SQUARE D’OYLEYS.
( Cut represents
Eighteen required.
is
the general
One hank
of
number
Dutch
First pattern .) knit, therefore
cotton No. 14,
9 of each pattern
required for each.
Note.— These are quite
different
is
and 2 wires No. 20, are
from the Twenty-one close D’oyleys.
275
KNITTING.
FIRST PATTERN
Cast on 72
stitches,
and work 12 plain rows.
3th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
P, T, O,
Pv
14th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all
but
15th
Row, P6, T,* edge
16tli
Row, P6, edge
1
stitches,
Row, P5,* edge stitches, T, O, 18th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, Row, P7,* edge
20th
Row, P6, edge
21st
Row, P8,* edge
stitches,
stitches,
P6.
P6.
but ten stitches, stitches,
edge
stitches,
P6.
edge
stitches,
P7.
edge
stitches,
P6.
P4, repeat, all
stitches,
stitches,
T, edge
but
O, T, P, T, O, P, repeat,
work them stitches,
thus, O, P3, O,
all
pearl, all but
17th
19th
edge
O, P3, O, A, repeat,
work them stitches,
O, T, repeat, edge
all
P5.
but 11 stitches,
thus, O,
T, P, T, O, edge
stitches,
P6.
but
edge
stitches,
P6.
pearl, all
O, A, O, P3, repeat,
work them
thus, O,
all
but 10
A, O, P, edge
'Stitches,
stitches,
P6.
22nd Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge stitches P6.
23rd
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
P2, T, O, P2, repeat,
edge
stitches,
P6.
24th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
P6.
;
Continue repeating from 13th row, until you have a square the 12 plain rows
;
work them.
Cast
all
but
off.
SECOND Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oYLEY PATTERN. Cast on 72
stitches.
Work
12 plain rows before commencing.
13th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
P4, O, A, O, P3, repeat, edge
stitches, P7.
14tli
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
15th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
P2, T, O, P3, O, T, P, edge
stitches,
P7
16tli
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
P6.
17tli
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
P, T, O, P5, O, T,
edge
stitches,
P7.
18th
Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
P6.
Observe the changes in the edges.
P6.
276
KNITTING.
19tli
How, P 6 T,* edge
20th
How, P6, edge
stitches,
21st
How, P6, edge
stitches,
,
stitches,
O, P7, O, A, edge
stitches,
O, P7, O, T, P6.
pearl, all but
edge
P2, O, T, P3, T, O, P,
edge stitches, P7.
stitches,
P6.
22d Row, P6, edge
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
23d How, P6, edge
stitches,
P3, O, T, P, T, O, P2,
edge
stitches,
P7.
stitches,
pearl, all but
edge
stitches,
P6.
24th
How
P6, edge
Repeat, until you have a square
all
but 12 plain rows, then work
these 12 plain rows, to correspond with the beginning.
Finish with a narrow fringe out
;
P6.
a cut one
is
best, as
it
Cast
it
off
can be combed
when washed.
PRINCESS royal’s MUFF, SCALE STITCH.
This Muff, in imitation of Chinchilla Fur, or Siberian Lamb’s Skin, is
Twelve shades of
extremely simple and pretty.
clear bright grey,
the darkest shade about two shades from black, the lightest the next
shade
They
to white.
are
worked from dark
to light,
light to dark, as the following receipt will show.
hanks of each shade, and two bone
pins,
No.
7,
and then from
About
are required.
six small
—
It is all
worked with Berlin wool, wound double. Cast on, for a child, 61 stitches 1st
How,
a lady, 81. edge stitch P.
(with darkest shade,) P, S, repeat to end,
2nd Row, plain
Repeat as
5th, 4th, 3rd, for a child,
all
1st
8th, 9th, 10th,
off
for ;
1
the row,
edge stitch P.
*
and 2nd Rows, with the 2nd,
3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th,
1th and 12th shades, then 11th, 10th, 9th, 8th, 7th, 6th,
and 2nd.
and about
This
finishes
one
and cast-on rows together (on the wrong
Observe, there
is
a
stripe.
Make
five for a lady.
T
it
Work
four stripes
up by joining the
side).
in this edge.
cast-
Roll up a sheet and
KNITTING.
277
a half of wadding, folded into a stripe of about three-eighths wide, to
work
the size that will admit of the
quarter of a yard, for each
arm
Cuffs are very pretty and 3 ver
gown
slipping over
sew on a thick shaded
round the arm holes
then draw"
it,
it
up
twisted cord about one
hole.
warm worked
way,
in this
for
wearing
sleeves.
COMFORT, SCALE STITCH.
This Comfort
Work
Muff.
hanks
for
a gentleman
and two pins No.
fleecy,
same
in the
is
Cast on 71 stitches
;
About
ends long enough
to
six
7, are required.
work
A Comfort of proper length
foregoing
stitch as
in claret, four plies fleecy, or very dark blue.
it
until
it is
the length required.
should go twice round the neck, and the
When
cover the chest.
finished,
it is
folded dou-
ble, (the long way.)
babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hood,
This Hood
garter
worked with three
is
plies white fleecy.
Roll up 60 rows, which form the front of the cast-on part
worked, line
rows of narrow
by a
rosette of
satin
;
it
back
50 loops
curtain,
with white
Work
80 rows.
then sew together three inches
draw up the remainder of the
Cast on for
the crown.
When
;
stitch.
satin,
;
cast-on part for
work 40 rows.
shaped as a cap, and three
ribbon drawn through the forehead, and finished
same ribbon.
Two
skeins of fleecy, and two pins of
No. 2 are required. 1st
Repeat as
Row
this
Row, S edge till
the
stitch, rest plain.
whole
is
babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coverlet, in
This
light
and
pretty Coverlet
is
finished.
garter st
worked
tch.
in stripes of blue
and whit*
278
KNITTING.
alternately.
Eight skeins of blue, nine
are required.
Two
pins No.
plies fleecy,
and
six of while
2.
Cast on with blue 130
stitches.
Row, S edge
stitch, plain.
2nd Row, S edge
stitch, plain.
Repeat
two rows until you have about 4^ inches wide of
1st
as these
blue worked.
Then work
the white about 3 inches wide.
working the white and blue alternately
until
it is
Continue
finished.
FRINGE.
This Fringe
is
useful for trimming Baby’s Coverlets, Shawls, Scarfs,
D’oyley’s, &c., &c.
It is
worked with the Cast on 8
1st
Row, Ob,
j,,
Continue working as ;
this
row
until
you have
cast off four stitches, pull
double.
as
much done
down
as will
the other four
along the Fringe.
VERY BEAUTIFUL
TIDY. #
For backs of Chairs, ends and backs of
*
wound
repeat.
go round the Coverlet all
wrool
stitches.
This
is
the same pattern as the
Sofas.
(It is also
useful for
Open Mitten, and the Baby’s Cap, and same
as centre of Shetland Shawl, all of which are most beautiful.
;;
KNITTING. Scarfs, Bed-Covers, Shawls, &c.)
and 2 bone
pins,
No.
Row,
Three hanks Dutch
No.
cotton,
18,
12, are required.
Cast on 112 9th
279
Work
stitches.
S, P4, edge stitches,
8 plain rows.
P4, T, P2, O, T, O, T, O, P, O. P2,
repeat 5 more times,
edge
stitches,
T
;
P5.
10th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
pearl, all but
11th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
P3, T, P2, O, T, O, T, O, P3, O, P2.
edge stitches, P5.
fT, P2, T, P2, O, T, O, T, O, P3, O, P2; repeat from mark thus
f
4 more times,
edge
stitches,
T, P4.
2th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
pearl, all but
13tli
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
T, T, P2, O, T, O, T, O, P5, O, P2
14th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
pearl, all
15tli
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
T, P2, O, P, O, T, O, T, O, P2, T,
16th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
17th
Row,
S, P4, T, edge stitches, P, O, P3, O, T, O,
1
edge
repeat 5 more times,
but
stitches,
edge
stitches,
P5.
edge
stitches,
P5.
edge stitches, P5.
P4,
Tâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;
f P2,
O, P3,
from mark thus
f
pearl, all but
edge stitches, P5.
T, O, P2, T, P2,
T
O, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P2, 3 more times
;
;
repeat
then P2, O, P3, O, T,
O, T, O, P2, T, P3,
edge
stitches,
P5.
edge
stitches,
P5.
18th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitches,
pearl, all but
19th
Row,
S, P4, edge stitohes,
P2, O, P5, O, T, O, T, O, P2, T,
repeat,
Row,
20th
P5.
S, P4, edge stitches,
pearl, all
but
T
edge
stitches,
P5.
edge
stitches,
P5.
Repeat from 9th row, until the work measures one square and a then
half ;
Note
.
work
the 8 plain rows as at the beginning
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;When washed,
it
EDGING.
Pins and cotton as in former Receipt. Cast on 1st
Row,
cast ;
should be slightly starched.
1 1
stitches.
S, P2, O, T, O, T, 02, T> 02,
T.
it off.
KNITTING.
2S0
2nd Row, P2, B, P2, B, P2, O, T, O, T, P. 3rd
Row,
S, P2, O,
4th
Row,
cast off 2 stitches.
Repeat from
round
cast
it
T, O, T, P6.
first
it off,
;
Work
the remainder thus, P5, O, T, O, T, P.
row, until you have the length required to go
and sew
it
on Tidy.
PRINCE ALBERT PURSE.
This
is
a very handsome purse, knit in two colours of Albert blueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;
and deepish buff (or gold colour) a
stripes, there is
open
One
stitch.
rows of No.
row
and
silk,
of steel beads
;
steel
the buff part
reel of each of the silks,
On
beads. is
the blue
three rows of
2 wires of No.
19,
and 8
10, steel beads, are required.
Cast on 122 stitches with Albert blue. 1st
Row,
plain.
2nd Row, plain. 3rd
Row,
pearl.
4th
Row,
*plain
5th
Row,
pearl.
6th
Row,
plain.
;
every stitch put down a bead.
When worked,
tie
on the
buff,
and woik with
it
as fol-
lowing 7th row. 7th
Row, P edge
8th
Row,
9th
Row, P edge
10th
Row,
stitch,
stitch, j,,
11th
Row, P edge
stitch,
Row,
pearl.
Now
13th
Row,
plain.
14th
Row,
plain.
Work a
edge
stitch,
P
repeat to end,
edge
stitch,
P*
repeat to end,
edge
stitch,
P.
j,
;
repeat to end,
Ob
;
;
.
pearl.
12th
*
Ob,
pearl.
Ob, tie
j,
on blue, and work as following 13th row.
plain stitch, then pass a bead quite
work another
stitch
and pass a bead down.
down
to the stitch
Continue in the same
worked: then
way
to the end.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 281
KNITTING. 15th
Row,
pearl.
ISth
Row,
plain
17th
Row,
pearl. plain.
;
18tli
Row,
19th
Row, P edge
20th
Row,
21st
Row, P edge
every stitch put down a bead.
Tie, and
work
as following 19th row.
stitch, j,,
Ob
repeat,
edge
stitch,
P.
repeat,
edge
stitch,
P.
repeat,
edge
stitch,
P.
;
pearl. stitch,
Ob,
j,
;
22nd Row, pearl. 23rd
Row, P edge
24th
Row,
Repeat from
damp
it
Ob
;
row, until you have about 6 inches worked
first
slightly with a
it
stretch
stitch, j,,
pearl.
on a
little
stretcher,
till
add
tassels,
then
thin
gum
dry
then sew up the cast-on and cast-off
;
and rings of
Pin
water.
edges, leaving a space for admitting the
end
;
money.
straight out, or
it
Draw
it
up
at
each
steel.
;
CHINEE TRIANGULAR WRAPPING SHAWL, GARTER STITCH.
Worked
in shaded Berlin wool, (or
brown
if preferred,)
Shawl
is
for border,
it
can be worked in plain wool,
and blue or
pinjc for middle.
formed into a triangular shape simply by being
let
The
out at the
slanting side.
Two
pins No.
Row,
4 ounces of the centre colour, and 2 of the border
Cast on 3
are required. 1st
8,
stitches.
S, P2.
2nd Row, *0, P3.
Repeat in
this
way
at the slanting edge,
This
is
O
makes a
you have 21
Row,
Row, O, P4.
S, P3.
stitches of
brown, then
and work with the blue as follows
the slanting side.
then work the 3 stitches This
until
3rd
4th
To form
off quite plain;
the
by
O
this
:
bring the thread in fro
you
will perceive
pretty loop all along the slanting side.
you h
tie
on
KNITTING.
282
Row,
1st
introducing blue, O, P, blue, *P20, brown.
2nd Row, S, Pi 9, brown, P2. blue. 3rd
Row, O, P2,
4tb
Row,
blue, P20, brown.
Pi 9, brown, P3,
S,
blue.
So continue, keeping the 20
stitches
increasing, as before, on the blue.
brown,
sures 1^ yards, then
work about 38 rows
letting out, as before,
on the slanting
and always
for border,
Continue increasing plain,
until
^mea-
with brown, always
side.
SUMMER NECKERCHIEF.
The
foregoing Receipt, worked in Berlin wool, white centre, and
pink or blue border, on No. 10
mer
extremely well
pins, looks
or Dress Neckerchief, (consequently
it is
not
worked
for a
Sum-
so large.)
SIMPLE AND PRETTY DRESS KNIT CUFFS.
Worked with One
Taylorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s white cotton, No. 6, and 2 wires, No. 20.
of the edgings in this book looks well
Sew
of the Cuffs.
part of work, to 1st
Row, Ob,
fit
j,,
3 small
common hooks
the wrist.
Cast on 28
repeat to end.
*
P20, before working the j
first stitch,
this is to prevent a
pass the
to the top
so as to
hook
and bottom
in to the
open
stitches, rather loose.
Every row
Continue, until you have sufficient
round the blue
sewed
to
is
go round the
brown
gap in the work.
the same. wrist.
ball to the back,
and twist
it
283
KNITTING.
ANOTHER VERY SIMPLE CUFF.
This
may
either be
worn with an edging
or not.
Two
No,
pins,
20, and a reel of Taylorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cotton, No. 6, are required.
Cast on 32 stitches ;
Row,
S, P,
edge
Repeat
until
you have
1st
stitches,
they must not be tightly put on.
B
Ts, O, P,
sufficient to
;
repeat to end of row, edge P2.
go round the
wrist.
Cast
it
off
j
add hooks same as the foregoing Cuff.
*
The
foregoing Receipt
stitches.
quired
BEAUTIFUL PURSE.
;
Two
makes a
beautiful Purse.
Cast on 110
wires of No. 18, and 3 hanks 2nd sized twist are re-
work about 9
inches, then cast
it off.
BEAUTIFUL LACE EDGING.
This Edging Fringe, and
on 14
is
stitches.
is
sometimes used
for the
Shetland Shawl instead of a
very pretty for trimming Tidies, Bed-covers, &c.
Cast
284 1st
KNITTING.
How,
S, P2, O, T, P, O, T, P, 02, T, 02, T, P.
2nd How, S, P2, B, P2, B, P3, O, T, P, O, T, P. 3rd
How,
S, P2, O,
4tli
How,
S, P2, B, P2, B, P5, O, T, P, O, T, P.
5th
How,
S, P2, O, T, P, O, T, Po, 02,
6th
How,
S, P2, B, P2, B, P7. O, T, P, O,
7th
How,
S, P2, O,
T, P, O, T, P3, 02, T, 02, T. P.
T, 02, T, P.
T, P.
T, P, O, T, P7, 02, T, 02, T, P.
8th
How,
S, P2, B, P2, B, P9, O, T, P, O, T, P.
9th
How,
S, P2, O, T, P, O, T, P14.
Cast off
all
but 13 stitches,
work them
Repeat from
thus, P7, O, T, P, O,
T, P.
row.
1st
RUSSIAN CROCHET-STITCH BED-COVER.
This Bed-Cover worked in squares stitch
forming a
sort of ridge.
When
is
simple and rich looking, the
the squares are all worked, they
are sewed together, so that the ridges of the one other, which produces a very good
square there
some
is
plies of
a small
tuft
soft cotton
At
effect.
of cut cotton
;
which
lie
contrary
is
it
firmly.
Double
then cut
it.
from the mesh, and tying up, and give
it
Each
tuft
sixpence, or larger.
it
it
called 4 plies
gauging No. 1st
Row,
a stitch or two, to keep
it
together,
should be quite round, and about the size of
*
No.
6,
Dutch
cotton, (hard twisted,)
What
1
and a hook
13.*
plain
French tambour
stitch,
* In gauging the hook, the part to be measured
above the hook.
then
round the centre very
Cast on 24 chain stitched with the coarsest twisted cotton. is
the
made by winding
round a mesh about an inch wide ;
withdrawing
use,
to
the corners of each
as described in this book,
is
that part of the stem directly
KNITTING.
285
under the head of French or double tambour this
and every row work a single chain
would
omitted,
in that
your hand, so as
2nd Row, work
the
work next
until
in double
tambour
the fore-finger of the
A
before described.
fit
work
turn the
in
cutting off the cotton.
which
all
is
the outer part of
*Repeat as 2nd Row, are done, join them, as
plain border, of a quarter of a yard deep, of this
round, looks very well
squares, to
when
;
stitch, if
Now
hand.
left
the end of
(This single
but instead of taking the
stitch,
loop, take the undermost,
you have a square crochet
stitch all
a stitch.)
work back again without
to
upper part of the
row diminish
At
stitch.
stitch.
it is
worked
in four lengths
and four
;
in each of the corners.
RUSSIAN CROCHET-STITCH PURSE.
Albert blue, (or a good claret colour,) with or without steel beads,
A
look well.
hook gauging No.
17,
and three hanks of common sized
purse twist, are required.
Cast on 108 chain
Work until
stitches, rather loose, for
you have about
S.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Damp
six inches.
Arabic and water, and stretch P.
it
out
If beads are wished, use
till
it
to the last stitch
in the bead
last
row
;)
Join at
Draw up
then
up
worked
work
this
;
;
;
stitch,
The
a plain stitch ;
(which fastens
at the erul
to
end
first
and
then a bead as before,
to
;
slipping a bead
stitch,
Purse by crocheting or sewing up the
work
gum
beads are put on in
by merely
then crochet the
add steel rings and tassels
Observe, always to
dissolved
about 12 rows are required
each end, leaving a space in the middle
the ends
little
dry.
No. 10
every other row, and every other
of row.
Continue working
with a
thread them on the silk before commencing.
down
a long Purse.
exactly as described for bed-cover stitch.
to
admit the money.
complete the Purse.
of the row the single chain
stitch.
;
286
KNITTING.
THE ROY, TRIANGULAR NET NECKERCHIEF, OR COIFFURE A NEGLEGEE. This
is
net in shades of blue and stone coloured Berlin wool
(six ;
shades of stone colour, six of blue, and one of white the white and
and then the
working down
to the
;
lightest stone colour
hanks of each shade, a
flat
darkest blue
down
;)
commencing with
then one row white
Two
to the darkest.
bone mesh No.
and as
8,
many
small
netting
needles as shades are required.
Cast on 2 loops with white. 1st
Row,
2nd Row,
increase on the 1st loop, then 1 plain stitch. tie
on the 2nd shade,
1 plain
increase on middle loop, and on
;
the last loop.
3rd
Row,
tie
on the 3rd shade, 2 plain
increase on middle loop, 1 plain
;
increase on last loop.
4th
Row,
tie
on the 4th shade, 3 plain
increase on middle, 2 plain
;
;
in-
crease last loop. 5tli
Row,
tie
on the 5th shade, 4 plain plain
6th
Row,
tie
;
;
increase on the middle stitch, 3
increase on last loop.
on the 6th shade, P5 stitches
P4
increase on middle loop,
;
;
increase on last loop.
7th
Row,
tie
on the white, P6 stitches crease on last loop
;
;
increase on middle loop,
P5
;
in-
this finishes the coloured stripe.
Continue and work the shade of stone and blue alternately, always increasing on the middle loop, and on the
last
loop, until
you have
about 140 stitches; then work the border with the white and blue as then
before
work
still
in the shades of blue
from the 2nd darkest up
;
to
the white, (increasing all the time as before
have the border double the breadth of the 1-|
inch wide, and
stitches into
work
a
row
each of the loops.
ail
;)
stripe.
by
this
Now
means you
take a
mesh
round the Kerchief, working two
This fringe row should be done with
2«7
KNITTING.
Damp
the third lightest shade.
corner of this Kerchief
is
and
stretch
turned down.
out
it
The
dry.
till
top
looks extremely well as a
It
loose covering for the head.
COMFORT.
Six hanks dark mazarine or Albert blue,* 4 plies fleecy, and a pin
No.
8,
are required.
Cast on 54 1st
Row,
S, plain, and 3
5th
Row,
S,
P2 edge
stitches
6th
Row,
S,
P3 edge
stitches
working
it
tween the
B
more rows.
— T, repeat T —B, pick np a
all
you have
and draws with the
up B,
7tli
Row,
S, plain, and 3
Row,
S,
P3 edge
stitches
12th
Row,
S,
P3 edge
stitches,
from the row below,
which
lies
across be-
just knit and the one on the left pin,
on the
first stitch
all
11th
along; edge stitches P3.
stitch
that part of the loop
it is
;
stitch
the picked
stitches.
pin
left
;
repeat B, and
edge stitches P3.
along,
more rows.
—T, repeat, up
fpick
edge stitches P3. stitch,
and
B
;
repeat to end,
edge stitches P3. 13th
Row,
S,
P3 edge
stitches, pearl or
14th
Row,
S,
P3 edge
stitches, plain,
* This colour not being very fore beginning,
soap in
it;
wash the wool
also put a
little
fast, it
in
back row,
edge stitches P3.
and 2 more rows.
comes off in the working, to prevent which, be
lukewarm
water, dissolving a
little
piece of white
pearl ash, (about half a table spoonful;) then rinse
again in lukewarm water; wring
it
well,
and shake
it
while drying.
it
Black wool,
and other dark colours, have often to be washed before working. t Observe in every other
B, otherwise after the B.)
it
open row, the pick-up
would be uneven, (be
stitch
careful not to
must be worked before the
work one upon
the end of the
row
288
KNITTING.
VERY
TJfe'EFULj
WARM, AND PRETTY BOOT FOR A
This Boot has a coloured shoe
front,
colour going across the forefoot.
and three times
toe is
joined up after
at heel, as is
it
The
and a white shoe part
leg,
is let
BABY.
with
This Boot
following receipt will show.
worked.
Four pins
of blue, four plies superfine fleecy, and one
stripes of
out six times at
of No. 11, and one
hank
hank
white, are required.
Cast on 23 stitches with colour. 1st
Row,
S, plain
—
2nd Row, S, plain stitch stitch
3rd
Row,
S, plain is for
(this is the sole part.)
at the
;
end of row increase a
3titch,
from the row below, and working
— ;
by picking up a then knit a plain
(this is for toe part.)
increase a stitch at the end of the row, as before
heel part
repeat as 2nd and 3rd rows two
;)
Row,
S, plain, letting out at toe part, as before.
9th
Row,
S, quite plain
14th
Row,
S, plain, four more rows,
8th
it,
;
—
more
(this
times.
repeat as 8th and 9th rows two more times.
have worked according
which
finishes at toe part.
to the receipt,
eight ridges,* besides the cast-on row.
—
you
If
you must now have
—Now
work the
toe
part as follows.
19th
Row,
S,
P9
leave the other 22 stitches on the pin, take a third pin,
;
and work back the toe 20th
Row, P 10;
this
stitches as follows.
makes one ridge
for the toe part; repeat
20th rows nine more times.
10 ridges
19th and
This concluded, you have
now
for toe part.
39th Row, S, P9, feast on 22 stitches for other side of shoe, to correspond
with the other 22 stitches that were 1
0th
Row,
*
Two
1
Cast-on
passing
it
S, plain, and three
rows form a is
on
more rows, which
left
on the
pin.
finishes at heel.
ridge.
done by forming a loop on one of the fingers of the
to the right
hand
pin.
left
hand, and
KNITTING.
289
44tli
Row,
S, plain to toe, all but three stitches,
45th
Row,
S, plain to heel
;
T
50th
Row,
S, plain, taking in at toe,
51st
Row,
plain, all but three stitches
Repeat 56th
Row,
Now
as 50th and 51st
S, plain.
it
;
P.
work them
;
T, P.
thus,
off sole part.
pick up the 22 stitches that were cast on before,
the
Tie on the white wool
22 picked-up stitches
;
the last stitch of the 10 stitches with the
on the
left
first
pin
:
has the 22 white stitches on
Work
it,
and work
work them, working
on
it
(but do not cut off the white, as
pin that
and one of the pin
it is
#
tie
;
required again;)
stitches
on the colour,
work two rows
as before described, then four with white, as before, then
it
two with coloured, then four with white, and two with
Again work with white
finishes forefoot.
remaining
back again,
to the
again as these two rows, with white, always working
the last stitch and one of the side loops together
only with
and work
a separate pin
to
the 10 stitches
it
correspond
of the 22 stitches that
10 stitches before working
lifting the last of the
together.
work
turn and
first
to
at the heel,
then pick up on
the 10 stitches on the forefoot (or toe) part, and
were
T, P.
thus,
rows two more times.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Then cast
with the 22 on the pin. with
work
repeat as 44th and 45th rows two more times.
side stitches plain to the heel.
colour.
This
the forefoot stitches, then the
Next row work
as follows,
in white, from one side of heel to other.
Row,
S, plain
;
repeat as this
P2.
Cast
*
Do
using tne
it
it
join
off
Then
up
tie
row 22 more
times, then
work
six
rows
B2
t
on the coloured, and work B2, P2,
the boot by
sewing the ridges together on the
;
not break off the white, but leave ;
twist
wrong
side.
it
and the
ball
you
it
and every other row when you are not
are knitting with so as not to
This must be done with either of the
20
make
a long loop
balls not in use.
on
290
KNITTING
wrong
side,
then down the leg,
outlets of toe
down
to
;
then turn
form a square
down
round the ankle,
the 10 ridges for toe, and
draw a
toe ;
platted)
along the sole and up
all
to tie
it
to the top
sew them
of flat
piece of ribbon (or worsted
little
with.
LONG BOOT.
If for a
long stocking, work 24 more rows white before finishing
with colour
at top.
UNDER OR SLEEPING STOCKING.
This Woollen Stocking, useful,
worked
and
is
also used
in three plies u
for
Lady
any
and four ivory or bone
soft fine
pins,
Cast on 64 1st
Round, P2, B2
Repeat as
first
quite plain, until
;
take-in
until
plain
work
it
by working seven
and
fasten
them
again take
to
the
are
Betty,’
Two
do.
all
round ;
in,
;
measuring
then take-in, and
Now
six stitches
then six plain rounds
repeat all round ;
then work
extremity of toe part.
stitches plain,
in all but 12 stitches off
wool yarn will
then work seven rows plain.
then take-in, so repeat
you have taken
Lady
as long as a stocking,
;
five stitches,
very
10, are required.
you have an inch worked
you have got
;
No.
is
They
repeat to end.
row
so repeat all round
stockings,
stitches.
from the very top of stocking down
Begin and
silk
Betty,” or hard twisted “
or if that cannot be supplied, cuts wool,
wearing under
as night or sleeping stockings.
;
and
;
then
so repeat until
draw them up with a needle
291
KNITTING.
BAG
PURSE CORD, (NOT PURSE
IN
This Bag below, or
is
make up on
may
Two
lining.
on 48
it
SILK,)
SPIDER-NET PATTERN.
a piece of pasteboard, with a white lining
be drawn with rings and
tassels,
and worn without a
skeins of cord, and 2 pins, No. 14, are required.
stitches.
Work
Cast
5 plain rows.
6th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, O, P, O, T, P,
7th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, pearl,
8th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, O, P3, O, A, repeat,
9th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, pearl,
10th
T, repeat, edge
stitches,
edge
stitches,
P3 P3
edge
stitches,
P3
edge
stitches,
P3
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, T, P, T, O, P, O, repeat, edge stitches,
11th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, pearl,
stitches,
P3 P3
12th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, A, O, P3, O, repeat,
edge
stitches,
P3
13th
Row,
S, P2, edge stitches, repeat,
edge
stitches,
P3
Repeat from 6th row
work
the 5 plain rows.
This
stitch
until
you have the bag about
Cast
makes a very
edge
it
3-8ths long, then
off
pretty Tidy, a Scarf, Shawl, &c., &c.
VERY BEAUTIFUL SHADED BAG. This Bag
is
worked
in 15 shades of scarlet,
commencing about
three
shades from the very darkest that can be had, and shading successively
up
to the bright military scarlet,
Bag.
work
The
stitch in
which terminates
which the Bag
is
at the top
of the
worked, resembles a round net
in gold colour all over this shaded ground,
and has really a rich
———
— 292
KNITTING.
and harmonious
effect.
have seen
(I
worked
it
purse twist, and gold twist for the net
The
splendid.)
material
When
worked, make
Bag
Work
may
was made up on a If
tassels.
up by sewing
many ways, to
done in
wool, a small
hank
silk, 1
in shades of green ;
which was really
be purse twist or Berlin wool.
either
it
together at the bottom of the
a knit handle, and add shaded
be made up
in gold
it
may
work
tassels
suit the taste of the
to
or
suit;
it
The Bag
wearer.
foundation, with a rich gold cord and gold
hank
of each colour, and 3 of yellow
if ;
in
of each shade, and 6 of gold colour or yellow, and
5 wires of No. 19, are required.
Cast on 150 stitches with yellow,
(gold colour.) 1st
Round,
plain.
2nd Round, pearl, and
1
more round.
Tie on the darkest colour, and work as follows 4th Round, *S2, P6, repeat
all
Repeat
round.
:
as 4th round 6
Tie on the yellow, and work as follows
more times.
:
11th Round, plain.
12th Round, pearl, and 1 more round.
Tie on the second darkest shade, and work as follows 14th Round, P4, S2, P2, repeat
Now
round, and 6 more rounds.
repeat from 1st round with the shades in succession, as these
You
two.
all
:
will perceive in
two more shades
Then work
;
work on
working the until
pattern, each time
you have worked up
as follows for top of the
Bag
it
takes in
to the lightest.
:
Tie on the yellow, and work. 1st
Round,
2nd Round,
S2,
plain. pearl,
is to lift
two
and 4 more rounds.
stitches off
from the
left
pin on to the right without working.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; KNITTING.
Work
293
the Handle with double silk or wool, and 2 wires of No. 16
Cast on 8 stitches with lightest shade. 1st
Row, Ob, j
i
,
repeat to end of
row
;
work 3 more rows.
Tie on the yellow, and work as follows 5th
Row,
plain.
6th
Row,
pearl.
Now
tie
on the second
lightest,
and work as
1st,
and 3 more rows
Work
then again with yellow, as 5th and 6th rows.
:
on in
this
the succession of shades until you have about 4^- inches done the middle of the handle
continue
still
;
as before, only
;
;
way
this is
work back
with the same shades from the dark one you have just finished with,
up
Cast
to the lightest.
Fasten
it
and sew
it off,
it
up
to
make
the handle round.
inside of the Bag.
Another method of working the Handle
and 2 pins No.
is,
with double wool or
silk,
15.
Cast on 8 stitches with the lightest pink. 1st
Row, *0,
j,
Every row of
repeat to end of row.
;
the handle
is
the
same
as this.
Work
a
little less
than an inch with each of the five following shades, 2nd lightest, 4th, 6th, 8th,
and join
may
and 10th it
then 8th, 6th, 4th, and 2nd
be round
;
lightest.
;
up lengthways, by sewing
sew
it
on,
and
it
Cast
it
off,
together, so that the handle
finish as before described.
JVTUFFETEES.
Work
*
When
Defore
these in Albert blue wool, over a white foundation, as before
an open
stitch occurs at the
commencing, and pass
it
edge of a back row, have the thread in front
quite round the wire
j
then work the
j,.
KNITTING.
294
They
described.
work
margin
are
worked
at the
bottom of the MufFetee
pearl rounds.
Before casting them
Five wires of No. 18
deep.
Bag
in the
more pearl rounds of the
four
only
at the
beginning
blue, so as to
make
a broader
stitch,
also at the top
work
four
more
;
off,
they should be about
3;j-
inches
8 small hanks of blue Berlin wool, and
;
6 of white, are required. Cast on 80
stitches, for
a Lady.
ANOTHER MUFFETEE.
Worked rich
in stripes of a bright full pink or cerise colour, and a deep
brown
Two
or claret.
wires of No. 17, and 9 small hanks of pink
and 3 of brown are required. 1st
Row, 'brown,
2nd Row,
pearl.
Row,
plain,
Cast on 50
stitches.
plain.
*Tie on the pink. 3rd
Repeat from round the hand
and 5 rows more. 1st
row
tightly.
until
you have got
Sew them
WARM MUFFETEE S FOR Worked same can be worked
as
much worked
as goes
up.
BOYS.
They
as foregoing MufFetees, in four plies fleecy. all
one colour, 21
stitches,
2 pins No.
9,
and
1
hank
of wool, are required.
PETITE NET ECHARPE FOR THE NECK.
This
is
netted in four shades of Berlin wool, either pink or blue, and
* Before beginning every other row, twist the
wool you are not working with round
the one you are working, so as to prevent a long loop of worsted behind.
— KNITTING.
a white
2 rows of each shade, working from darkest up
;
receding from lightest colour
to darkest, so that
in the centre of the light part of stripe, this stripe, the
shade, and
work
as before
stripes
draw up the ends
;
A
stitches.
(this is to ;
Net 4
mesh
flat
or.
to
white, and
comes always
—consequently, when repeating the
2nd darkest
prevent the 4 rows of dark com-
if
;
;
the white
Recommence with
dark shades meet.
ing together.) stripe
295
wished wider, work
add a shaded
another
Cast on 170
tassel to each.
and 6 hanks of each of the colours, are
No.' 7,
required.
HANDSOME CROCHET BAG. This Bag
and plain
is
composed of a round bottom and
The
twist alternately.
shaded
2nd
stripe
One hank
stripe
dark green, the 6th
:
stripe following
silk, the 1st
shaded purple, the 3rd
scarlet, the 5th stripe
chinee twist
colours are arranged as follow
round part in gold coloured shaded blue, the
stripes of
—
the
dark
brown, the 4th stripe stripe
shaded yellow.
of extra coarse purse silk of each kind, and one of white, 3
of the yellow shade, a crochet handle, and a steel crochet needle, No. (that
1,
Bag
is,
is all
the very coarsest needle of the kind,) are required.
worked
in
double tambour
Cast on 3 chain stitches with shaded yellow
round 1st
;
then work as follows
Round,* work two
2nd Round, work
The
stitch.
join ;
them
form the
to
:
stitches in
1 plain stitch,
every
stitch, so as to increase
work twof
in
next stitch
;
it.
repeat this
all
round.
* I always carry
on a thread, as
it
makes the work much more
solid
and more
even. t
Observe, in working the two,
first
work on the wrong
side of the
work a
stitch,
KNITTING.
296
3rd Round, work 2 plain stitches, work two in next stitch
;
repeat this
all
;
repeat this
all
repeat this
all
round.
4th Round, work 3 plain stitches, work two in next stitch round.
5th Round,
work 4
plain stitches,
work two
in next stitch
;
round.
Thus you
perceive there are fewer stitches
made every round
;
so
continue in proportion until you have got your round piece, measuring
4 inches in diameter, then work in the every stripe
work a
worked about 6 rounds
is
This Bag
plain round in white.
a cord through 12 small rings
same
bottom
size at the
;
add
;
stripes ;
as before described
always between each
is
not lined, but
tassels at the side,
shaded yellow look
;
stripe
drawn with
and one the
best.
KETTLE HOLDER.
Two
hank
pins of No. 7, and one
fleecy, as this colour
washes
Cast on 21
Row, *0,
1st
S, T, repeat to end
Knit on This
is
the
same
and the Polish
which forms a
way *
;
this
stitches.
every row it is
is
the same.
square.
Russian Shawl, Hassock, and Comfort,
Shaded Cushion, and Brioche.
of ridge in the round before, then work the stitch in the usual
sort
makes no
To make an O
;
until
stitch as the
Pelisse,
of 9 plies fleecy, (say purple
best,) are required.
hole,
at the
and
I
think
it
much
the best
way
of increasing.
beginning of a row, you must have the thread in front of
the wire before beginning, which makes a stitch
when you work
the T.
KNITTING.
297
ELEGANT KNIT SCARF, WITH COLOURED WAVED ENDS.
This Scarf tre,
is
worked with two
and with English wool,
plies
colour look very well, going from light colour ;
and shades of
down
to
ends.
Two
in the cen-
Shades of gold
a pretty bright maroon
scarlet look extremely rich
going lighter than the military shade.
hank of each
Lady Betty Wool
in shades, for the
and
beautiful, not
hanks of white, and one
of the six shades of English embroidery wool, and two
ivory pins, No. 10, are required.
Observe
to
cast
on and
off very
loosely.
Cast on 132 stitches with white.
How,
1st
plain,
and 7 more rows.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Tie on the darkest shade, and work
as
follows.
9th
Row,
P5 edge
S,
stitches
T, T, T, T, O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, O,
P, O, P, O, P, O, T, T, T, T, B, repeat
10th
Row,
S,
P5 edge
stitches P,
Repeat
9tli
B23, repeat to end,
edge
stitches,
P6.
edge
stitches,
P6
and 10th rows again.
Tie on the 2nd darkest shade, and work as the darkest shade
Having done
so,
work every shade
then again from 2nd lightest colour.
Now
By
work
this
the pattern
same way up
which
then 8 rows
finishes
to
the lightest
one
the pattern over
12 times in white ;
one end.
to darkest,
means you have worked
coloured stripe as before finishes
in the
all
;
stripe of
22
times.
then work again the
plain with white.
This
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 298
KNITTING.
Commence Row,
lsc
S,
P5 edge
the centre pattern as follows
stitches,
P2, O, T, P3, O,
T
T, O, T, O, P3, O, 2nd Row, S, P5 edge 3rd
Row,
S,
;
P5 edge
edge
stitches,
P6.
but
edge
stitches,
P6
P
;
repeat
edge
stitches,
P6.
but
edge
stitches,
P6.
Row
,
S,
P5 edge
stitches, pearl, all
5th
Row,
S,
P5 edge
stitches,
T
;
repeat
6th
Row,
S,
7th
Row,
S, P5, edge stitches, P, T, O, P,
8th
Row, S P5 edge
9tli
Row,
S, P5, edge stitches, P2, O, T, P, O,
10th
Row,
S,
11th
Row,
S,
but
stitches, pearl, all
O, T, O, T, T, O,
P
;
but
T
P5 edge
stitches, pearl, all
P5 edge
stitches, P,
S,
P5 edge
Repeat from finished,
as
1st
P6
edge
stitches,
P6.
repeat
;
edge
stitches,
P6.
edge
stitches,
P6.
T, O, T,
but
P
;
T, P, O, T,
jO ,
edge
stitches,
P6.
edge
stitches,
P6.
edge stitches, P6.
repeat
stitches, pearl, all
but
edge
row, until the centre
stitches,
the other end
;
P6.
When
long enough.
is
should measure about three yards
it
stitches,
T, O, P3, O, T, O, T, O, T, P2, T, O,
T, O, T, O, P, T, O,
Row,
edge
T, O, T, O, T, O, P5, O, T,
repeat
stitches, pearl, all
P2, O, T, O, T, O, T, O,
12th
T
P2, O, T, P, T, O, T, O, T, O, P3, O,
O, T, O, T, P2, O,
P5 edge
T
T, O, P3, T, O, T, O, T, O, P, O,
stitches, P,
4th
r
O, T, O, T, *T, O,
repeat
stitches, pearl, all
O, T, O, P3, T, O,
:
is
worked
first.
Some casting
Now
ladies prefer
off,
as
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
this is to
first
quite even out 4
* This T, T,
over the
make
both ends
up the
work
is
last.
till
with a
dry
;
little
dissolved
gum
but before
first ;
then cast
off.
;
stitches,
in the same.
described, as I do not dislike the
Damp
each end.
first
working the centre of white
the border as I have before described
return to the cast-on row, and pick
other end
work
work
and work the I
generally
unique appearance
and water, and
stretch
at it
add a fringe of white
formed into an A, by working
T
;
then the other T, and
lifting the
KNITTING.
299
CAP FOR WEARING UNDER THE BONNET. It is
worked
in Berlin wool,
oured and white, and tied
and composed of
Four hanks white and 8 of
of ribbon.
stripes alternately col-
back and under the chin with a piece
at the
blue,
and two pins No.
9,
are
required.
Cast on 82 stitches with blue.
P
Row, S edge
stitch, plain,
edge
stitch,
2nd Row, S edge
stitch, pearl,
edge
stitch,
P.
Row, S edge
stitch, plain,
edge
stitch,
P.
1st
3rd
4th
Row, S edge
stitch pearl,
5th
Row, S edge
stitch,
6th
Row, S edge
stitch,
7th
Row, S edge
stitch, plain,
T P,
T
repeat
;
M
to
end of row,
,
repeat
;*
edge
stitch,
P.
edge
stitch,
P.
edge
stitch,
P,
edge
stitch,
P. P.
8th
Row, S edge
stitch, pearl,
edge
stitch,
9th
Row, S edge
stitch, plain,
edge
stitch;
P.
10th
Row, S edge
stitch, pearl,
edge
stitch,
P.
11th
Row,
S,
T
edge
T
stitches,
T
repeat
;
to
end of row, T,
P
edgo
stitches, P.
P
M, P
12th
Row,
13th
Row, S edge
stitch, plain,
14th
Row, S edge
stitch, pearl,
S,
edge
15th
Row,
S,
T edge
16th
Row,
S,
P
stitches,
stitches,
T
;
repeat
M
;
Repeat from 9th
stitch,
P.
edge
stitch,
P.
stitches,
T,
P
edge stitches, P2.
to 12th
to
edge
edge
row.
16th row, and again from 9th
12th row.
* This Made-stitch is it.
T to end of row,
repeat
Tie on the white, and repeat 13th to
edge stitches, P2.
repeat,
'
edge stitches, P, â&#x20AC;˘
;
It is that part
going to work. stitches
on
done by picking up a
stitch
from the row below and working
of the loop between the stitch just worked, and the one you are
When you
either side.
pick
it
up,-
you
will perceive
it
will
draw with both
800
KNITTING.
Tie on the blue, and repeat 13th 9th
to
16th row, and again from the
16th row.
to the
Tie on the white, and repeat from 9th
to
Tie on the blue, and repeat from 9th
to 16th
16th row.
row, and from 9th
to
12th row.
Tie on the white, and repeat from 13th
16th row, and from 9th
to
row.
to 12th
Tie on the blue, and work one plain row.
Turn down
a small piece of
over the forehead, of the
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
open row
first
first
;)
this
hem
coloured stripe, so as to form a
hem,
(the piece turned in for
is
from the centre
must be done before the
side stitches are
picked up.
Now
pick up and work the stitches
down
should be about thirty in number worked. hack, and
all
along the top of the Cap
Cap, and work as row, T. of it
row all
Repeat fifth
j
T
to
end of row
row, plain
;
;
;
Cap
pearl
;
there
them
all
then pick up the other side of
Next row, plain
before.
the side of
Next row
sixth row, pearl
;
second row, pearl
row P,
fourth ;
M
then cast
;
third ;
repeat to end
off.
Now hem
round, as before described, for front part.
STRONG GUARD FOR A LADY OR GENTLEMAN.
Three hanks
of
common
sized purse silk,
and 2 wires of No, 20 are
required.
Cast on 4 1st
Row, Ob, j
A ;
Every row
is
stitches.
repeat to end of row.
worked the same.
Work it
to the length required.
;
NETTING. LONG NET PURSE FOR A LADY.
Worked
with purse
Cast on 90 stitches ;
up
net
silk ;
twist,
two
sizes finer
than the common.
work with a mesh, No. 18
it
requires 3 skeins
;
the cast-on and the last
the sides together
row worked
;
are those that are joined.
All netting
is
improved by damping and stretching out
till
dry.
LONG NET PURSE FOR A LADY.
Work ence
:
with silk the same size as
the
first
five
rows are
first
net purse,
plain, the sixth
is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;only
worked
this differ-
as a plain
row
302
NETTING.
instead of putting the thread once round the needle before working,
pass
it
twice round
rows plain
The
;
work
;
sixth row, if
following
row
by
until
this
means
it
forms a row of long loops, then 5
you have 84 rows.
wished
to
be twisted as in plate, work
it
and the
in round netting, as described in following receipt, only
keeping in mind that the thread must be passed twice round the mesh in sixth row.
ROUND NETTING
FOR. A
GENTLEMANS LONG PURSE.
Cast on 100 stitches with second-sized purse twist, mesh No. 16;
work 100
Mode netting
;
rows.
of Netting
loop, bringing still
.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Form
the loop round your fingers as in
it
up behind
the mesh, between the
keeping the fingers and loop on them
verse the needle, and pass dation,) passing the
draw
it
it
netting
down through
mesh and
in the
the
first
same
position
re;
loop, (on the foun-
withdraw your
fingers from the loop, as in
continue every loop in this way.
;
fore-finger,
needle in a slanting direction over the mesh;
quite through, then
common
common
pass the netting-needle and thread quite through the finger-
This makes a
very strong purse.
The
following
Open Netting
receipts
may
be worked for Veils, Caps,
Purses, Scarfs, Shawls, Mittens, Cuffs, Sleeves, Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oyleys, Fish-cloths, Toilet-covers, Curtains, &c.
303
NETTING.
HONEYCOMB NETTING FOR
Worked worked
China
in white
it is ;
finished
by
silk; this veil
VEIL.
1st
it
is
the silk should be ;
about the thickness of the third-sized purse
No.
usually dyed after
is
a netted scollop border
mesh
twist, the
for veil,
12.
Row,
plain.
2nd Row, work the 2nd loop
first,
the 1st loop second, then the
4tli
loop,
then the 3rd loop.
Proceed in
this
3rd
Row,
plain.
4th
Row,
net the 1st loop plain
;
way
to the
end of row.
then proceed as 2nd row
finishing stitch
;
plain.
You will
perceive in the 4th
mencement and end of
row you have a
the row,
which
is
not in the second.
occurs on every alternate twisted row, so as to
come
in their proper places,
or plain
row
loops, then this
know,
those
is
done
two loops
;
you
plain stitch at the com-
by withdrawing
make
the
This
the twisted loops
mesh
after the third
will observe a sort of twist in one of the
plain, the fourth loop a sort of twist
;
you
will
by
in the following row, that the two loops that are plain are
you work, by taking the
the second row.
You must
last first,
regulate the
and
first last,
number
as described in
of stitches to be cast
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 304 on
NETTING.
tor a veil
fashion.
by
those usually worn, as they vary
The mode
will be required for
say 20
and then 20 rows
stitches,
ascertain the width after
when
adopt,
I
I wish to
any piece of work, ;
is
by
and length of 20
much
know how many
by working a few
means you
this
stitches
.
then
measuring the width and length, you would wish
the width of the
piece,
little
you
according to
will have
200
if,
it
stitches
stitches
will exactly for
to
example,
be 10 times
stitches to cast on.
VERY PRETTY LONG GRECIAN NET PURSE FOR A LADY.
Worked with
the finest-sized purse twist.
You may work the plain may work
rows in a bright colour, and the open rows in white, or you it all
one colour, according
on 100
stitches,
an open one,
with meshes Nos. 12 and
19.
Cast
and net about 100 rows, alternately 6 rows plain and
as described in receipt.
1st
Row, No. 19 mesh,
7th
Row, No. 12 mesh,
8th
Row, No. 19 mesh side loop
* Twist the
to taste,
first
and 5 more rows.
:
twist* the 1st and 2nd loops together, and net the
repeat to end of row.
and second loops together, by forming the loop on your
as in plain netting;
round netting, then
;
plain,
plain.
pull the needle
fingers,
and thread quite through, as described in
insert the point of netting-needle into the first loop, as in the
805
NETTING. 9tli
Row, No.
19 mesh, plain, and 5 more rows.
15th
Row, No. 12 mesh,
plain.
16th
Row, No. 19 mesh,
1 plain stitch,
and proceed as 8th row.
GRECIAN NET FOR A VEIL.
Worked
with white China silk
cast ;
on even numbers
work with
;
two meshes, the one No. 9, the other No. 16. 1st
Row, No.
9 mesh, plain.
2nd Row, No. 16 mesh; twist the
1st
and 2nd loops together, (as described
in preceding receipt,) then net the little side loop, as described
in receipt for long Grecian purse
The
veil is
worked
in this
way
:
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
immediately before
a plain
row with
this.
large mesh, and
a twisted row with the small, always keeping in mind you begin and
end every other twisted row with a plain
come
in
its
pointing to the top; pass
point of the needle through the
again catch the
now
tion,
first.
I
;
it
is
it
with the
it
through the
finger-loop, as in
common if
it
it
through;
The next
netting.
stitch
were a loose knot on the
the loose part of the second loop that
was twisted
do not think, however, that the Grecian net can, by any descrip-
be reduced to practice, without some previous knowledge of
the publication of the (
along to the second loop; pull
a very small loop, which appears as
side of the twisted stitch
through the
the twist
Having now the second loop on your needle,
have the first loop only on the needle; draw
withdraw your fingers from the is
it
first loop.
by gently raising the point of needle; pull
first loop,
second; this done, you will
worked
make
proper place.
common way,
to be
stitch, so as to
first edition, I
am happy
and some brought the net with them
to
it.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Shortly
to say that several ladies
show) they had worked from
without any other assistance.
21
after
informed
me
this receipt
P 800
NETTING.
SINGLE DIAMOND NETTING.
Row, *P, oP
1st
2nd Row, P, 3rd
4th
Pl Row, oP, P; Row, Pl, P
;
;
Explanation of Terms.
—P, a
;
repeat to end of row. repeat to end of row.
repeat to end of row. repeat to end of row.
plaiu
stitch.
of passing the thread once round the off,
pass
stitch,
it
twice round the
mesh
to
—oP, a long loop
mesh
form the long loop.
formed by working the present loop
to
;
instead
before netting the stitch
—
l,
a loose
meet the short one in tho
preceding row.
DIAMOND OF FIVE STITCHES FOR A LONG PURSE.
Work *
You
with mesh No.
will perceive,
18,
and second-sized purse twist
when you withdraw
long and a short loop alternately.
the
mesh from
this
;
3 skeins are
row, there will be a
;
NETTING.
Work
required.
Cast on 73
over
completes the purse.
1st
;
this
Row, oP, P5
;
2nd Row, Px, Pl,
stitches.
307
the following receipt eight times
repeat to end of row; finishing stitch
W,
P4,
W;
W,
P3,
W, Px
oP.
is
repeat to end of row, finishing stitch
is
Px. 3rd
Row, Px, Pl, is
4th
Row,
P, Px, Pl, is
5th
Row,
repeat to end of
;
row ;
finishing stitch
Px.
W,
P2,
W,
P,
W, Px
;
repeat to end of row
;
finishing stitch
P.
P, Px, Pl,
W,
Px, P; repeat to end of row; finishing
stitch is P.
6th 7th
Row, P2, Px, Pl, Px, P Row, P2, Px, oP, P2
;
repeat to end of row
11th 12th
Row, Pl, Px, P3, Px
9th
10th
Row, P3,
ditto,
P.
ditto,
P.
;
ditto,
ditto,
P.
;
ditto,
ditto,
P.
;
ditto,
ditto,
P.
ditto,
Pl.
;
W
ditto,
;
Repeat from Explanation of Terms. stitch,
W,
the cross
is
only
to
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;oP, show
first
row.
see Index of net terms it
;
Px, a plain
was a long loop in the former row
withdraw the mesh before working the next
iwo plain
finishing stitch is P.
ditto,
;
W, Px, Pl, W, P Row, P2, W, Px, Px, Pl, W, P Row, P2, W, Px, P, Px, Pl,W Row, P, W, Px, P2, Px, Pl,
8th
;
ditto,
loop, (see
Index
;
P2,
stitches.)
LEAP NETTING.
Cast on 5 stitches for every pattern you wish
mesh No.
14,
and cotton No. 50.
;
2 loops
for each
edge
j
NETTING.
308 1st
Row, 2
plain for edge, *3 plain
the next
2nd Row, 2 plain
increase 4 in next loop
;
repeat to end of
;
for edge
;
^gather in
row from
all
row from
of
3rd
Row,
4th
Row, 2
all
;
increase 4 in
2 plain for edge.
;
the loops that were increased on
the two loops above-described, into nine loops in
star
(you will find
one'' stitch,
on the increased loop,) 4 plain
;
repeat to end
2 plain for edge.
star,
plain.
plain for edge, *2 plain, increase, 4 in next loop, increase 4 on
next loop, 1 plain; repeat to end of row from
star,
2 plain for
edge.
5th
Row, 2
plain for edge, *1 plain to
6th
Row,
Increase 4,
end of row from
from
plain, repeat
is to
you must net
net so
first
keep up the number of
;
repeat
2 plain for edge.
row.
many given
five times to
gather in the 9 loops, 3 plain
;
star,
stitches into
one loop
:
so, to
increase
give four loops, as one must be knit to
cast-on stitches.
DOTTED NET.
1st
row.
Row, oP,
in the
same loop increase 2
stitches
;
repeat to end of
All the rows are the same.
Explanation of Terms the mesh, as in a plain crease 2 stitches
by
.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;oP, instead of passing the thread once round
stitch,
pass
it
twice round before netting
netting 2 stitches in the
same
loop.
;
in-
NETTING.
309
FRENCH GROUND NET.
1st Row, P, oP repeat to end of row, 2ndRow, Px, Pl repeat to end of row. 3rd Row, *oP, fP repeat to end of row. 4tli Row, Pl, Px repeat to end of row. ;
;
;
;
Row,
5th
P, *oP, JP; repeat; end and stitch simply oP.
Repeat from 2nd row. Explanation of Terms.
—oP,
before letting’ off your loop on the
foundation, pass your needle and thread quite through the finger loop, as Cescribed in Grecian net, then insert the point of needle
tne top loop,
which you
will find exactly above;
in a slanting direction, to the right of the
first
to
Net
come
part one.
it
off;
partly
by
up through the
which presents 'This
exception,
be a plain
so doing,
little
when
itself
loop it
is
stitch at the
first
top loop.
You therefore
—
this
it
of receipt.
at the
oP
last
row
from that
—jP, with
will at every other twisted row,
beginning and
row
net
being a very small
represented in the receipt thus it
loop on the last
causes the second loop on the
above the top loop,
occurs, as
as will be seen in 5th
it
row,
last
loop on last row, through
which, with the point of your needle, draw up the row.
down through
on the second
it
this
must
finishing of the row,
NETTING.
810
SCOLLOP FOR BORDERS OF VEILS, COLLARS, CAPS, ETC.
1st
Row,
2nd Row,
cast on one loop for each scollop flat
mesh No.
1,
3rd
Row, round mesh No.
15, net
4th
Row, round mesh No.
15, plain.
The
thread
I
you wish.
increase 12 into each loop.
each of the increased loops off plain.
used for the above meshes was about the fineness of the
hird-sized purse twist.
ANOTHER SCOLLOP FOR BORDER.
1st
Row,
2nd Row,
cast on 1 loop for each scollop required. flat
mesh No.
1,
increase 22 loops on each.
4tli
Row, round mesh No. 14, net each of Row, round mesh No. 19, oP, increase
5th
Row, round mesh No.
14, net all the long loops only.
6th
Row, round mesh, No.
14, plain.
7th
Row, round mesh, No.
14, plain.
3rd
the increased loops plain.
2 loops into the same
SCOLLOP.
1st
Row,
cast on a plain stitch for each scollop required.
stitcfc
NETTING.
2nd Row, 3rd
flat
mesh No.
1,
Row, round mesh No.
increase 20 into each loop. 14, net all the increased loops,
mesh No.
4th and 5th Rows, round
311
each plain.
14, plain.
LONG PURSE OF OPEN STITCH OF SINGLE TAMBOUR. Cast on 160 single chain 1st
Row, 3 chain
stitches.
row
stitches, not attached to the cast-on
by working a
attach a
;
row
on the fourth
stitch
of the cast-on
2nd Row, always make your attached
stitch
on the centre one of
stitch,
stitch
of
foundation.
the 3 chain stitches
worked
Every succeeding row for
is
forming the purse, join
together about attach stitch
2j?
may
;
in the last row, then three chain stitches.
done in it
up
this
When
way.
sufficient is
done
way, by tambouring
in the usual
inches at each side, and draw
it
up
at
it
The
each end.
be a bead stitch
PLAIN FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE, (SOMETIMES CALLED DOUBLE
TAMBOUR.)
Work gives
with a fine ivory hook
worked on
Mode
this
hook being coarser than
and wrong
the right
of Working
.
stitch.
loop.
first
loop,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Cast on 100
and catch the
The
purse
is
alternately
side.
loops in single chain stitch, having
the last of the cast-on loops on the needle.
in the
the silk,
;
the appearance of an open
it
silk
2nd row,
from behind
insert the
pull
it
needle
through the
;
You have now
and pull
it
2 loops on the needle, then catch the thread,
through the two .oops
this ;
in every loop to the end of
the purse
row
;
forms one
90 rows worked
stitch.
So
repe;
in this ivay
t
form
—
;;
312
NETTING.
FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE. Cast on 130
This
worked with a
is
a gentleman’s, and 110 for a lady’s purse.
stitches: for
sized purse twist,
and
fine needle
and ivory handle, and common-
worked on one
all
loop,
which
you began it is
fastens
the last
2nd row, commence
it.
row
on,
and work
sufficiently wide, then join
it
When
side.
the end of the row, cut off the thread, and
draw
at the
you come
through the
it
same
same way.
in the
by tambouring
it
which
stitch
Continue
together
;
to
last
till
4 skeins
twist are required.
OPEN TAMBOUR Cast on 220 stitches
;
work with a
PlfRSE.
fine
tambour needle and handle
8 skeins of third-sized purse twist are required.
Row, begin with one
1st
on a
stitch
of the cast-on stitches on the needle, throw
on your needle, by casting the thread over
insert the
it ;
needle into the second loop, catching the silk in from behind, and pull it
through ;
stitch,
pull
you now have three loops on it
through the
first
the needle, again cast on a
two on the point of the needle
;
there
now two loops on it, again cast on another, pull it through the two you have now only one loop, cast on one, pull it through the one having now one on the needle, commence as before described. are
This
stitch is
worked on every other loop
unworked, which forms the open part of
only, thereby leaving one stitch.
Continue working
thus as
many
times as you think sufficient for a purse
This
stitch
makes a very
side,
as
beautiful purse
worked
join
it
up.
;
on the right
all
always cutting the thread off at the end of each row, (but leaving
much
follows
:
of the thread as will fasten
it
neatly behind
;
)
working
as
NETTING.
Work 2 bour
stitch
318
open rows with white, then 10 plain rows of double
tarn,
with light blue, 2 open rows of white, 10 plain rows of
double tambour
stitch
with black
;
repeat this 3
more
times,
which
forms the purse.
The purse
is
much improved by working
on the black, and on the blue, a pattern in
a pattern in gold colour
steel
and gold beads.
OPEN TAMBOUR STITCH. Cast on 200 stitches with third-sized 1st
Row,
twist.
3 double tambour stitches, 3 chain stitches
of row, always
making
;
repeat to end
the double stitches three stitches apart from the
last
2nd Row, work the 3 double tambour stitches of the last
stitches
round the three chain
row.
Repeat as
last
row
till
the purse
is finishea.
/
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THE
SHAWL, COLLAR, SLIPPER, O
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J* -HI
THE
ROYAL SHETLAND SHAWL, LACE COLLAR,
CHINA PURSE RECEIPT BOOK. /
MIIEOo
$
T.
B.
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:
PETERSON AND BROTHERS, 306
CHESTNUT STREET.
I
ADDRESS.
In presenting
this little
Gore most sincerely duce the sible,
trusts,
receipts in the
Manual
to the
Ladies, Mrs.
that as her study has been
most careful and
explicit
be
and recommend Work-table.
sufficient to
this
induce
all
B.
to pro-
manner
combined with the elegant appearance of the
illustrated, will
J.
pos-
articles as
Ladies to patronize
cheap and valuable companion
to
the
FOLDED.
SHAWL
WOOL
SHETLAND
THE
OT
ILLUSTRATION
—
.
;
THE
SHETLAND WOOL SHAWL. FOR
CENTRE.
TIIE
Cast on 200 stitches on needles No.
Row
First
.
—Knit
two
together
;
—Plain Third Row — Knit two thread forward
knit
two*
\
knit one
together ;
thread forward
;
;
thread' forward
;
the
knit knit
;
At
knit three together. ;
;
end of this row ,
knit the two last stitches.
—Plain Fifth Row. — Knit two Fourth Row.
knitting.
knit two together
one
two
thread forward;
knit three together
;
;
flam
one;
knit ;
knit
knitting.
thread forward
three
knit
one
:
knit
knit one.
Second Row.
three
thread forward
;
together ;
forward;
thread
two
knit
;
;
together;
two together
knit ;
thread forward
one
7.
;
two together
;
thread forward
;
;
—Plain Row. — Knit
Sixth Row.
Seventh
;
;
knit two together
knit one
knit two together
knit one
hread forward
thread forward ;
thread forward
;
;
thread forward
thread forward
;
knit
;
knit ;
knit one.
knitting.
three
knit three ;
;
at the ;
thread forward
;
thread forward
end of
this
knit three together ;
knit three together ;
row bring
the thread forward
;
knit two.
Eighth Row.
—Plain
knitting.
These eight rows must be repeated
till
a square
is
knitted.
22
/
;
LACE COLLAR
822
BORDER FOR THE SHETLAND WOOL SHAWL. THIS
IS
FOR ONE HALF.
Cast on 600 stitches on needles No. First
Row — Knit .
one eight times
two together four times ] thread forward
knit two together four times ;
thread forward
together four times ;
together four times
—Purl — Plain Row. — Purl
knitting.
knitting. ;
commence again
having knitted a piece half a yard
second row
;
;
;
knit two
as
at
first
in depth, knit six
row.
After
rows plain and
knit two in one, and so on, third plain
then six rows of plain and purled. stitches
;
then six rows of holes worked thus, one row plain,
thread forward
must be knitted together
mencing from
knit one eight times
;
knit ;
knit two
purl one.
Third Row.
purled alternately
;
purl one
;
Second Row.
Fourth
3.
To form
in the centre
and
at the
ends,
com-
the plain rows.
THE LACE COLLAR.
No. Needles, No. 26.
Cast on 36 First
Row
.
stitches,
—Cotton forward
I.
Cotton, No. 50.
knit 2 plain rows.
knit one ;
*
;
the corner two and three
cotton forward
;
knit one
; ;
RECEIPT BOOK. slip
one
knit two together
;
cotton forward
two together
;
;
—Purl
;
them
knit one
;
one
slip
;
;
knit
knit one.
;
knit three
;
cotton forward
;
slip ;
pass the slip stitch over them
cotton for;
cotton forward
;
knit one
;
forward ;
knit three ;
them
knitting.
.
knit two together
ward
cotton forward
pass the slip stitch over
Row — Cotton
Third
pass the slip stitch over
;
;
Second Row.
one
knit one
323
slip ;
one
;
knit two together
pass ;
the slip stitch over them.
—Purl —Knit one
Fourth Row.
Row.
Fifth stitch
knitting.
over them
knit one
slip ;
knit one
;
one
;
cotton forward
knit one ;
;
—Make one purl one Row. —
;
pass the slip
cotton forward
;
them
pass the slip stitch over
•
cotton forward.
two together
;
;
cotton forward; knit three;
pass the slip stitch
cotton forward; slip one;
them
pass the slip stitch over ;
;
cotton forward
;
knit
cotton forward. ;
Eighth Row.
row
;
;
the rest.
knit
Slip
knit two together three
knit one
;
knit two together ;
;
over them;
knit two together
;
cotton forward
Sixth Row.
Seventh
one
slip ;
knit one
—Make one purl
the rest
;
commence again
iepeat the above eight rows fifty-four times,
and
as at first
cast off loosely.
LACE FOR COLLAR. No. Needles, No. 26.
Cotton, No. 50.
Cast on 17
Row.
First
gether
;
forward
forward
—
knit one
Slip one ;
knit two together ,
knit two together
stitches.
knit two
;
thread forward
;
I.
;
;
thread forward
knit two together
thread forward
;
;
;
;
knit two
knit one
;
knit two together
thread ;
;
thread forward
;
knit two plain.
to-
thread
324
R0Y4L BRIGHTON SLIPPER.
TIIE
Second Row.
Row
Tfurd
.
—All —
knit one
tog-ether
forward
one
;*
repeat second and
;
;
third
the lace
row
into
;
all
row
this
completes the pattern.
;
on one
be'
picked up, and knit one plain
the fourth row, knit two together ;
the ;
fifth
After
;
must
the second row, knit two together every twelfth stitch
on
•
put the thread twice round the needle, and
on, the stitches
so
row
first
After the heading, then cast off
repeat the second
two together, and
knit two
;
;
plain
knit two
;
stitches
;
sewn
is
forward
knit two together
rows until you have seven plain
on the left-hand needle
row
six stitches for the border
thread ;
knit two' together, and so on as in the
your right-hand needle.
knit the last
you have
knit two
thread forward
;
;
thread
plain until
Slip
row, plain
;
the third ;
thread forward
knit ;
then cast
off.
;
THE ROYAL BRIGHTON SLIPPER
Make
a chain of fifteen stitches in single crochet;
twelve rows, which
on one
side
the front
;
crochet two
the middle stitch of every row, until you have completed
stitches in
;
is
sufficient for the front.
crochet thirty rows, and join
Take up twelve
them
to
stitches
the other side of
then catch the stitches up round the top, and crochet one
row.
For the very loose
frill,
to
crochet three stitches in every loop in single crochet,
form a
full frill.
;
LACE COLLAR
When
325 and sew on a cork
finished, turn the slipper inside out,
dien pass a ribbon round under the
The above
is
frill,
and
tie
so'
- r
the bow.
exceedingly pretty in eight thread shaded Berlin wool
THE LACE COLLAR.
No.
II.
\
Needles, No. 26.
Cast on 53
Row —Knit
First
.
the thread forward together.
Second one
;
;
one
Row
.
—Knit
(a)
one
from
Finish with
.
Third forward
from
Row
.
five
;
(c) .
Fourth
;
Finish with .
;
purl one
one
;
;
knit two
knit one.
purl two together purl three ;
:
;
purl turn
Repent
purl two together. ;
purl one
1
}
(
;
thread forward
—purl one
Row — Knit
round the needle
;
knit two
;
—knit two.
—Knit
knit
purl one
round the needle
it
;
—
knit one
<3
thread forward, turning
{b)
knit two ;
;
the thread round the needle
row.
knit two together
;
;
Finish with
.
1
thread forward
knit one
Repeat from
purl
stitches,
purl one
;
No. 50.
Cotton,
one
;
knit two together ;
knit two together. ;
purl two together ;
Repeat
knit one.
;
purl seven
thread
;
turn the thread ;
turn the thread round the needle
29*
;
purl
;
LACE COLLAR RECEIPT BOOK.
326
;
Fifth Row.
ward
—Knit
two
thread forward
;
Repeat as in the
—turn the thread round knit two
;
(a)
row from
first
;
knit two
Finish with, thread
.
to-
for-
knit two.
;
Sixth Row. needle
from
Finish with
.
purl two together; knit one.
the needle
gether.
(d)
Repeat from
three together.
;
—Knit
one
two
purl
;
turn the thread round the
;
purl two together.
purl one
Repeat
;
(b)
Finish with
.
Row.
Seventh
—thread round the needle
—Knit
thread forward
four ;
Repeat as in third row from
(c)
Finish with
.
as the second
purl two
;
;
two together
knit
;
row
knit one.
—thread
forward
knit ;
four.
Eighth Row.
—Knit
one
;
Repeat as
purl three together.
needle
turn the thread round the
purl four
;
in fourth
row from
(d)
Finish
.
;
with
—turn
the thread round the needle; purl four
Ninth Row.
—Commence again, sewn on
After the lace is
,
as at
first
knit one.
;
row.
must he picked up and two plain
the stitches
:
roios knitted , then cast off rather tightly.
LACE FOR COLLAR. No.
II.
Needles, No. 26.
Cotton,
Cast on 17 First
Row.
—
Slip one
purl two together together
;
knit one ;
twice round
Second
;
;
knit one ;
;
thread twice round the needle ;
thread twice round the needle ;
knit two together ;
Row —Knit .
seven ;
purl two together
50.
stitches.
thread twice round
one; thread twice round
round
knit one
No.
;
;
knit
;
purl two
knit two together
;
thread
five.
purl one
;
knit two
;
purl one
knit ;
purl two together; knit one; thread twice ;
knit two.
;
RIBBON PURSE RECEIPT BOOK.
Row —Slip
Third
one; knit one; thread twice round; pun two
.
together; knit one; thread twice round
Knu
the
purl two
to-
purl two together
;
;
rest plain.
Fourth
Row
.
—Knit
knit one
gether ;
knit one
;
;
thread twice round
.
knit one
purl one
;
thread twice round
Seventh
knit
five.
knit two; purl one; knit two;
;
thread twice round ;
purl two together
;
knit one
;
purl two together
knit two. ;
.
;
;
;
knit two
;
knit two together
;
knit one
;
thread twice round
;
;
seven; purl one
Row — Slip knit one
together
purl two
purl two together
;
;
;
;
knit two together
Row —Knit
Sixth
knit two.
thread twice round
;
thread twice round
;
;
purl two together
knit one
;
thread twice round
together
thread twice round ;
one
.
together
;
;
Row — Slip
Fifth
twelve
thread twice round
one
knit one
;
thread twice round
;
;
;
purl two
;
purl two together
thread twice round
the rest ;
plain. j
Eighth
Row
.
—Cast
off five, leaving seventeen stitches ;
purl two together; knit one
more; thread twice round round
;
purl two together
;
;
knit two
;
commence again
;
knit nine
thread twice
at first
row.
THE CHINA PURSE.
One Piece
of Shaded China Ribbon.
Bone Knitting
Cast on in plain knitting thirty stitches sufficient for the purse.
the ribbon, as join
it
it
You
must be
knit thirty rows,
it
which
is
;
careful, in knitting, not to turn
will spoil the design of the purse.
up neatly, and trim
Pins, No. 7.
When
with gold or silver ornaments.
finished,
.
r
;;
;
T.
&
PETERSON
B.
BROTHERS' PDBLICATfONS.
THIS CATALOGUE CONTAINS
AND
and Best Selling Books
Describes the Most Popular
ia the
World
Ike Books will also be found to be the Best and Latest Publications by They are the most Popular and Celebrated Writers in the World. also the most Readable and Entertaining Books published.
Suitable for the Parlor, Library, Sitting-Room, Railroad Camp, Steamboat, Army, or Soldiers’ Reading.
PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY
T. E.
PETERSON & BROTHERS,
Philadelphia.
Booksellers and all others will be Supplied at very
Low
Rates.
Copies of any of Petersons’ Publications, or any other work or works Advertised, Published, or Noticed by anyone at all, in any place, will be sent by us, Free of Postage, on receipt of Price.
TERMS
:
To those with
whom we
have no monthly account, Cash with Order.
MRS. SOUTH WORTH’S X% ORKS. The Fatal Marriage. Complete The Missing Bride. Two Love’s Labor
Won.
Two
vols.,
paper cover. Price One Dollar; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Tlie Gipsy’s Prophecy.
Com-
Price plete in two vols., paper cover. $1.00 ; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Mother-in-haw.
Complete in two
Lady of
the Isle. Complete
in two vols., paper cover. Price $i.00; or in one vol., cloth* $1.50.
The T wo Sisters.
Complete in two
volumes, paper cover. Price $1.00 in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Tlie
Three Beauties.
;
or
Complete
in two vols., pa,per cover. Price $1.00 or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
;
Vivia. The Secret of Power. Two vols., paper cover. Price $1.00
;
Grin one
Sudia.
Retribution: A Tale of Passion. Two $1.00
;
vols., paper cover. Price or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
The Haunted Homestead. Two paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
vols.,
The Curse of Clifton.
vol., cloth, $1.50.
paper cover. Price One Dollar;. or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
vols.,
The
Deserted Wife. Two
umes, paper cover. Price $1.00 one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
vols.,
or in
paper cover. Price One Dollar; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Initials.
volumes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50. ;
Hickory Hall., By Mrs. Southworth. Price 50 cents.
;
A Love
cover.
Price
Secret.
paper cover. bound in one
By
One Dollar
;
vols.,
papei
or bound, in
vol., cloth, for $1.50.
The Dead
The
Story.
Trice One Dolor in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Kate Aylesford. Two one
The Lost Heiress. Two
or in
vols.,
Two vols., paper cover.
;
;
The Belle of Washington. Two
lar
paper cover. Price One Dollar one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
;
The Jealous Hushaml. Two vol-
River. Two
The Wife’s Victory. Two
vol-
umes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
Price $1.00
volumes, paper cover. or in cloth, for $1.50.
,
or in
;
The Discarded Daughter. Two
The Pearl of Pearl The ;
Two vols
paper cover. Price One Dollar one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
volumes, paper cover. Price $1.00 or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Tlie
vol-
umes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
in one or two volumes, paper cover. Price $1.00 ; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Price
Two
volumes,
One Dollar;
oi
vol., cloth, $1.50.
Broken
Engagement.
Mrs. Southworth.
Price 25 cents.
0)
-
;
2
T. B.
PETERSON & BROTHERS’ PUBLICATIONS IlltS. ANN S. STEPHENS’ WORKS. The
Tlie Rejected Wife. One volume, paper cover. one volume,
Price One Dollar
;
or in
cloth, for 1.50.
Fashion and Famine.
One
volume, paper cover. Price $1.00; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Mary Denvent.
One volume* paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50. ;
Heiress.
One volume, paper One Dollar o.t in o.io
cover.
Price
volume,
cloth, for $1.50.
Tlie Old
;
Homestead.
One volPrice One Doila/ ’ or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
ume, paper cover.
The
edition of these books in one vol-
ume, paper cover,
“ Railway
the
is
Edition.”
CAROLINE LEE HENTZ’S WORKS. Planter’s Northern Two volumes, paper cover.
Bride* One
Price
Dollar; or in cloth, $1.50.
Tlie Young Pilot of tlie Belle Creole. Price $1.00 in
Linda. paper
or $1.50 in cloth.
;
Robert Graham.
The Sequel
to,
and Continuation in paper
;
of Linda. Price $1.00 or $1.50 in cloth.
The Lost Daughter. paper cover. bound in one
Price
Tw'
vols.,
One Doll-.
;
or
vol., cloth, $1.50.
Courtship and Marriage. Two paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
vols.,
Rena; Two
vols., paper cover. Price One Dollar; or one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Marcus Warland. Two volumes, paper cover. in one
bound
Price
One Dollar
;
paper cover. Price One Dollar one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
oi in
;
The Planter’s Daughter. Two paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one vol., cloth, $1.50. vols.,
Eoline; or, Magnolia Vale* Two vols., paper cover. Price Onj Dollar
;
or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
The Banished
Son. Two
paper cover. Price One Dollar one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
Helen and Arthur.
;
vols., or ij
Two
vol-
umes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50. Ernest Lin wood. Two volumes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or in one volume, cloth, for $1.50. *
;
The Snow Bird.
or,
Love after Marriage. Twovoh,
or
;
Courtship Two vols., Dollar
vol., cloth, $1.50.
;
and Matrimony.
paper cover. Price One or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
MRS. HENRY WOOD’S BOOKS. The Shadow of Ashlydyat. The Mystery. One Two
paper cover. Price Oue or in one vol., cloth, for $1.25.
vols.,
Dollar
;
Squire Trevlyn’s Heir.
Two
Price One Dollar vols., paper cover. or in one vol., cloth, for $1.25.
The
Castle’s Heir.
;
Two volumes,
octavo, paper cover. Price One Dollar ; or in one vol., cloth, for $1.25.
Verner’s Pride. Two vols., paper cover.
octa vo,
Price $1.00; or in one
We
also publish a “ Railway Edition” of all the above, each one in one volume,
The cents
Price
One Dollar
Earl’s Heirs. ;
vol., octavo, Price Fifty cents or ;
paper cover. Price Fifty cents one vol., cloth, 75 cents.
The Channings.
One
each.
Price
Fifty
or one vol., cloth, 75 cents.
;
or in
vol., octavo,
paper cover. Price 75 cents
;
or in one
vol., cloth, $1.00.
Aurora Floyd.
Price 50 cents a finer edition, in cloth, for $1.00.
Better For Worse.
vol., cloth, for $1.25.
paper cover.
paper cover.
bound in one vol., cloth, 75 cents. A Life’s Secret. One vol., octavo,
tavo, paper cover.
;
or
One
vol., oePrice 50 cents.
Martyn Ware’s Temptation. One vol., paper
cover.
Price 25 cents
The Foggy Night
at OfFord.
Price 25 cents.
THE GREAT NOVEL OF THE WAR. Shoulder Straps. A novel of New Fork and the Army in 1S62. By Henry Morford, editor of the “New York Atlas.” It is the book for Ladies! Gentler
men! Soldiers! Wives and Widows, Fast Young Ladies, Slow l oung Ladies, Married Men and Bachelors, Toung Ladies about to be Married, and those who have no Matrimonial Prospects whatever! Stay-at-Home Quards, Government officials, Army Contractors, Aldermen, Doctors, Judges, Lawyers, etc. Complete in two large volumes, illustrated, aud neatly done up in paper covers, price One Dollar a copy or bound in oue volume, cloth, for $1.50. We also publish a “ Railway Edition” of it, complete in one vol., paper cover, price One Dollfi ;
PETERSON & BROTHERS’ PUBLICATIONS
T. B.
3
CHARLES DICKERS’ WORKS. ILLUSTRATED OCTAVO EDITION.
Pickwick Papers,
David Copperfield, Cloth, Barnaby Rudge, Cloth, Martin Cliuzzlewit, ...Cloth,
Cloth, $2.00
Nicholas Nickleby, Cloth, Great Expectations, ...Cloth, Lamplighter’s Story, ..Cloth, Oliver Twist, ..Cloth, Bleak House, Cloth,
2 00 2.00
Little Dorrit,
Cloth, 2.00
Old Curiosity Shop,.... Cloth, Christmas Stories, .....Cloth, Dickens’ New Stories, A Tale of Two Cities,
Dornbey and Son,
Cloth, 2.00
American Notes and
Sketches by « Boz,”.... Cloth, Price of a
set,
“ “ “
“
“
2.00
2.00 2.00
Pic-Nic Papers,
2.00
2.00 2.00 2.0<?
2.00
2.00 2.00
2.00
Cloth, 2.00
in Black cloth, in 17 volumes Full Law Library style
$32.00 42 0C 4S.00 50.00 60.00 60.00
Half calf, sprinkled edges Half calf, marbled edges Half calf, antique Half calf, full gilt hacks, etc
PEOPLE’S DUODECIMO EDITION.
Pickwick Papers,
Little Dorrit,
Cloth, $1.75
Dombey and
Nicholas Nickleby,... Cloth, 1.75 Great Expectations, ...Cloth, 1.75 Lamplighter’s Story, ..Cloth, 1.75
David Copperfield,
Cloth, 1.75
1.75 1.75
Dickens’ Short Stories, Message from the Sea,
1.75
1.50
Price of a set, in Black cloth, in 17 volumes Full Law Library style Half calf, sprinkled edges
calf, gilt edges,
1.50 1.50
$29.00 .
Half calf, marbled edges... Half calf, antique Half calf, full gilt hacks, etc Full calf, antique Full
35.00 42.00
44 00 50.00 50.00 60.00 60.0C
backs, etc
ILLUSTRATED DUODECIMO EDITION. Sketches by 44 Boz,”... Cloth, Pickwick Papers, Cloth, $3.00
Tale of Two Cities,. ...Cloth, Nicholas Nickleby, ....Cloth,
1.75 1.75
Barnaby Rudge, Cloth, 1.75 Martin Cliuzzlewit,. ..Cloth, 1.75 Old Curiosity Shop, ....Cloth, 1.75
Cloth, 1.75
Cloth, Oliver Twist, Bleak House, Cloth, A Tale of Two Cities, Dickens’ New Stories,
Cloth 1.75
Son,
Christmas Stories. Cloth, Sketches by “ Boz,”.... Cloth,
Barnaby Rudge,
3.00
3.00
Cloth, 3.00
David Copperfield,
Cloth, 3.00
Martin Cliuzzlewit, ...Cloth, Old Curiosity Shop, ...Cloth,
Oliver Twist,
Cloth, 3.00
Little Dorrit
Cloth, 3.00
Christmas Stories, Bleak House,
Cloth, 3.00
Dombey and Son
Cloth, 3
3.00
Each of the above are complete in two volumes
Dickens’
1.75
,
illustrated
New
|
1.75
I
Message from
“
“ “
«
“
M
Half calf, antique Half calf, full giit hack Full calf, antique
“
Fuil
edges, backs, etc
.
Stories, the Sea,
Price of a set, in Thirty volumes, bound in Black cloth, gilt backs “ ** Full Lav/ Library style
calf, gilt
Ofc
Cloth, 3.00
Great Expectations,...Cloth, Lamplighter’s Story, “
3 0C
3.00
1
7(
1.7J
$15. Ot 55. Oi 90. 0C 90.00 100.0C 100.00
4
T. B.
PETERSON & BROTHERS PUBLICATIONS. 1
CHARLES DICKENS’ WORKS. CHEAP EDITION, PAPER COYER. Q his edition is published complete in
Twenty-two large octavo volumes, in paper
cover, as follows. Price Fifty cents a volume.
Pickwick Papers.
Oliver Twist. Lamplighter’s Story.
Great Expectations. A Tale of Two Cities. New Years’ Stories.
Dombey and
Barnaby Rudge. Old Curiosity
Sliop.
Little Dorrit.
Holiday Stories. Martin Chuzzlewit. Bleak House.
David Copperfield.
Dickens’ Short Stories. Message from the Sea.
Sketches by « Boz.” Dickens’ New Stories.
Christmas Stories.
American Notes. This
Son.
Nicholas Nickleby.
Pic-Nic Papers.
LIBRARY OCTAVO EDITION. IN SEVEN VOLUMES. edition is in SEVEN very large octavo volumes, with a Portrait
on
steel of
Charles Dickens, and bound in the following various styles. Price of a
set,
“ “ “ “ “
“
**
lt
in Black Cloth, in seven volumes, Scarlet cloth, extra,
“
$14.00 15.00 17.50 20.00 21.00 25.00 25.00
;
Law
Library style, Half calf, sprinkled edges, Half calf, marbled edges, Half calf, antique, Half calf, full gilt backs, etc.,
“ *f
“
CHARLES LEVER’S WORKS. Fine Edition bound separately. ,
Charles O’Malley, cloth, Harry Lorrcqucr, cloth, Jack Hinton, cloth, of Ours,
i.50
1.50
Valentine Vox,
1.50
1.50
Davenport Dunn, cloth,
Tom Burke
1.5Q
Arthur O’Leary, cloth, Con Cregan, cloth Knight of G wynne, cloth,.,
$1.50
cloth,. 1.50
1.50
150
,
cloth,
Ten Thousand a
Year,.... 1.50
CHARLES LEVER’S NOVELS. All neatly done
Charles O’Malley,. ...Price 50 50 Harry Lorrequer,
“
50
“
Tom Burke of Ours, 50 Jack Hinton, the Guards-
“
Horace Templeton, man,..
50
up in paper
cts.
covers.
Arthur O’Leary,
Gil Bias? “
50
cts.
The Knight of Gwynne*, 50 Kate O’Donoghue, 50 Con Cregan, the Irish Davenport Dunn,
“
“
50
*
50
“
LIBRARY EDITION. complete in FIVE large octavo volumes, containing Charles O’Malley, Harry Lorrequer, Horace Templeton, Tom Burke of Ours, Arthur O’Leary, Tack Hinton the Guardsman, The Knight of (’wynne, Kate O’Donoghue. etc., handsomely printed, and bound in various styles, as follows:
THIS EDITION
is
Price of a set iu Black cloth. “ Scarlet cloth,
“ “ “
“
“
“
“ **
Law Library sheep, Half Calf, sprinkled edges, Half Calf, marbled edges, Half Calf, antique,
7
S'
.
50
8.0C 8.75 12.00 12.50 15 00
; ;
T. B.
PETERSON & BROTHERS’ PUBLICATIONS.
5
WILKIE COLLIMS’ GREAT WORKS. Dead
Tlie
Secret.
Hide and Seek.
One volume,
octavo, paper cover. Price fifty cents or bound in oue vol., cloth, for 7 5 cts. or a fine 12mo. edition, in two vols., paper cover, in large type, for Oue Dollar, or in one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
paper cover. bound in one
;
vol., octavo,
fifty
cents;
or
After Dark. One Price
cover.
one
Path; or, Basil. Complete in two volumes, paper cover. Price One Dollar or bound in one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
Tlie Crossed
fifty
vol., cloth, for
vol., octavo, paper cents ; or bound in 75 cents.
SigBits A-foot ; or Travels Beyond Railways. One volume, octavo, paper Price 50 cents.
cover.
;
Tlie Stolen Mask.
One
Price
vol., cloth, for 75 cent$.
Tlie Yellow Sister Rose.
Price 25 cents.
Mask.
Price 25
cts.
Price 25 cents.
COOK BOOKS. Petersons’
New Cook Book;
Miss Leslie’s
Book.
or, Practical
Cloth.
wife.
Mrs. Hale’s By
Receipts for the HousePrice $1.25.
New Cook
Book.
One volume,
Mrs. Sarah J. Hale. Price $1.25.
bound.
New Cookery
Being her
One volume, bound.
New Cook Book)
Widdiiield’s
or Useful Receipts for the Housewife and the Uninitiated. Full of valuable receipts, all original and never before published, all of which will be found to be very valuable and of daily use. One vol., bound. Price $1.50.
Miss
new book. Price $1.50.
last
•
.Leslie’s
for Cooking. volume, bound.
New
Receipts
Complete in one
Price $1.25.
MRS. HALE’S RECEIPTS. Mrs. Hale’s Receipts for By
Mrs. Sarah
J.
One
Hale.
tlie
Million.
MISS LESLIE’S
BEHAVIOUR BOOK.
Miss Leslie’s Behaviour Book. A Ladies.
Containing 4545 Receipts. bound. Price, $1.50.
vol., 800 pages, strongly
complete Guide and Manual
foi
Price $1.50.
FRANC ATELLI’S FRENCH COOK. Francatelli’s Celebrated French. Cook Book.
Tlie
Modern
Cook. A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art, in all its branches comprising, in addition to English Cookery, the most approved and recherche systems of French, Italian, and German Cookery; adapted as well for the largest, establishBy CHARLES ELME FRANCAments, as for the use of private families. TELLI, pupil to the celebrated Careme, and late Maitre-d’ Hotel and Chief Cook With Sixty-Two Illustrations of various to her Majesty, the Queen of England. dishes. Reprinted from the last London Edition, carefully revised and considerably enlarged. Complete in one large octavo volume of Six Hundred pages, ;
strongly bound, and printed on the finest double super-calendered paper. Three Dollars a copy.
J. A.
MAITLAND’S GREAT WORKS.
The Three Cousins. *
By J. A. Two vols., paper. Price or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Tlie
Maitland.
Two
$1 .00
or
;
The Watchman,
Price
Complete
in
two
large vols., paper cover. Price $1.00 or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
;
One vol.,
fifty
cents
Lawyer’s Story. Two
volPrice $1.00; of in cloth for $1.50.
umes, paper cover.
Sartaroe.
Two
vols.,
A Tale
of Norway.
paper cover.
Price $1.00;
or in cloth for $1.50.
GREAT WORKS.
MRS. DANIELS’ octavo, paper cover. Price or one vol., cloth, 75 cents.
Tlie
paper cover. Price $1.00; in cloth for $1.50.
vols.,
bound
lie Wanderer. Complete in two volumes, paper cover. Price $1.00 or in one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
Marrying for Money.
Diary of an Old Doctor*
bound
;
Tlie Poor Cousin. Price 50 cents alsingham. Price 5f Kate
W
cents.
6
T. B.
PETERSON & BROTHERS’ PUBLICATIONS, ALEXAISDES DUMAS’ WORKS.
Count of Monte - Cristo.
By-
Alexander Dumas. Beautifully illusOne volume, cloth, $1.50 or in two volumes, paper cover, for $1.00.
trated.
The
;
Conscript. Two Price
cover.
vols.,
One Dollar
paper
or in one
;
volume, cloth, for $1.50. autille; or tlie Fate
of a Coquette. Only correct Translation
from the Original French. Two volumes, paper, price $1.00 cloth, $1.50. ;
Three Guardsmen.
Tiie
Price
75 cents, in paper cover, or a finer edition in cloth, for $1.50.
Twenty Years to the
A
After.
“Three Guardsmen.”
Sequel Price 75
paper cover, or a finer edition, one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
cents, in ;.u
Bragelonne; the Son of Athos: being the continuation of “ Twenty Years After. ” Price 75 cents, in paper, or a finer edition, in cloth, for $1.50.
Mask.
Tlie Iron
tinuation of the
Being the con-
“Three Guardsmen.”
Two
Price One vols., paper cover. Dollar; or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Louise
La
Valliere;
The
or,
Second Series and end of the “Iron Two volumes, paper cover. Price $1 .00, or in one vol., cloth, $1.50.
Mask.”
’Tiie
Memoirs of a
Pliysician.
Beautifully Illustrated. Two vols., paper cover. Price One Dollar or bound in one volume, cloth, for $1.50. ;
Tiie Queen’s Necklace.
A Seof a Physician.” Price $1.00 ; or in one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
quel
Two
to the vols.,
“ Memoirs
paper cover.
Six Years Later;
or,
Taking of
A
Continuation of “The Queen’s Necklace.” Two vols., paper cover. Price One Dollar ; or in one the Bastile.
vol., cloth, for $1.50.
to and continuation of the Countess of Charny. Two volumes, paper. Price or in one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
$1.00
;
The Chevalier. A
or,
The
Fall of the French Monarchy. Sequel to Six Years Later. Two vols., paper cover. Price One Dollar; or in one sloth, for $1.50.
FRANK
E.
Sequel
to,
and
final end of “ Andree De Taverney.'’ One vol. Price 75 cents.
The Adventures
of a Mar-
quis. Two 1.00
;
vols., paper cover. Price or in one vol., cloth, for $1.50.
The Forty-Five Guardsmen. Price 75 cents, or a finer edition in one volume, cloth. Price $1.50.
The Iron Hand.
Price 75 cents, in paper cover, or a finer edition in one volume, cloth, for $1.50.
Diana of Meridor.
Twovoluraes, paper cover. Price One Dollar cr in one vol., cloth, for $1.50. ;
Edmond to
Dantes.
Dumas’
Being a Sequel
celebrated
novel
of
the
“ Count of Monte-Cristo.” Price 50 cts. Annette ; or, The Lady of the
Pearls. A Companion to
“Camille.”
Price 50 cents.
The Fallen Angel. Love and
Life in Paris.
A
Sfcjry cf
One volume.
Price 50 cents.
The Man with Five Wives. Complete in one volume. 'Price 50 cts.
or, The Planter of the Isle of France. One vol-
George ume.
;
Price Fifty cents.
Genevieve
The Chevalier of One volume. Illus-
or,
;
Maison Rouge. trated.
Price 50 cents.
The Mohicans
of Paris.
50 eta
Sketches ini France. 50 cents. Isabel of Bavaria. Price 50 cts. Felina de Chambure or, The ;
Female Fiend.
Countess of Charny;
volume,
Andree de Taverney. A Sequel
Price 50 cents.
The Horrors of Paris. 50 cents. The Twin Lieutenants. One vol.
Price 50
cts.
The Corsican Brothers.
25 cts
SMEDLEY’S WORKS.
Harry Coverdale’s Courtship Lewis Arundel. One vol., cloth. Price $1.50 or cheap edition in paper and Marriage. Two vols., paper. ;
Price $1,00
;
cover, for 75 cents.
or cloth, $1.50.
Lcrrimer Littlegood. By author Fortunes and Misfortunes of Harry Backet Scapegrace. Two vols., of “Frank Fairleigh. ” paper.
Frank
Price$1.00; or cloth, $1.50.
Fairleigh.
One volume,
clotn, $1.50 ; or cheap edition in cover, for 75 cents
paper
Price $1.50 or cheap edition Cloth. in paper cover, for 50 cents. ;
Tom
Racquet;
Maiden Aunts.
and
His
Illustrated.
Three
50 cents.
— ~ J@*GET UP YOOl CUU35S FOSS 1864! NEW AND SPLEIIDID PEEMIUMS *
1
{
I
-
!
THE BEST AND CHEAPEST
—
|
IN
THE WORLD
This popular Monthly contains more for the money than any Magazine in the world. In 1864, it will have nearly 1000 pages, 25 to 30 steel plates, 12 colored patterns, and 900 DOLLARS A YEAR, or a dollar less than wood engravings and all this for only magazines of its class. Every lady ought to take “Peterson.” In the general advance of prices, it is the ONLY MAGAZINE THAT HAS NOT RAISED ITS PRICES. EITHER TO SINGLE SUBSCRIBERS OR TO CLUBS; and is, therefore, emphatically,
TWO
i
1
THE MAGAZINE POE THE TIMES The stories in “Peterson” are conceded to he the best 'published anywhere. Mrs. Ann Stephens, Ella Rodman, Mrs. Denison, Frank Lee Benedict, the author of “Susy L‘s Diary,” T. S. Arthur, E. L. Chandler Moulton, Gabrieli e Lee, Virginia F. Townsend, Rosalie Grey, Clara Augusta, and the author of “The Second Life,” besides all the most popular female writers of America are regular contributors. In addition to the usual number of shorter stories, there will be given in 1864, Original S.
Pour
Copy-righted Novelets, viz: THE MAID OF HONOR— a Story By ANN
S.
of
Queen Bess,
STEPHENS.
THE LOST ESTATE— a By
Story of To-Day,
the author of “ The Second Life.”
MAUD’S SUMMER AT SARATOGA, By FRANK LEE BENEDICT. FANNY’S FLIRTATION, By ELLA RODMAN In its Illustrations also, “Peterson” is unrivaled. The publisher challenges a compare son between its SUPERB MEZZOTINTS AND OTHER STEEL ENGRAVINGS and those in other Magazines, and one at least
is
given in every number.
COLORED FASHION PLATES IN ADVANCE, It is the ONLY MAGAZINE whose Fashion Plates can be relied on. Each number contains a Fashion Plate, engraved on steel, and colored from Fashions later than any other Magazine gives; also, a dozen or more New Styles, engraved on Wood; also, a Pattern, from which a Dress, Mantilla, or Child’s Costume can be cut, without the aid of a mantua-maker so that each number, in this way, will SAVE A YEAR’S SUBSCRIPTION. The Paris, London, Philadelphia and New York Fashions are described, at length, each month. Patterns of Caps, Bonnets, Head Dresses, &c., given. Its
—
—
COLORED PATTERNS IN EMBROIDERY, CROCHET, &C. The Work-Table Department of this Magazine IS number contains a dozen or more patterns in every
WHOLLY
SUPERB COLORED PATTERN FOR SLIPPER, PURSE
NEW
&c., &c., &c.
Every month, a
CHAIR SEAT,
or
—each of which, at a retail store, would cost Fifty Cents. “OUR,
UNRIVALED. Every
variety of Fancy-work; Crochet,
Embroidery, Knitting, Bead-work, Shell-work, Hair-work,
&c., is given
COOK-BOOK:.”'
The Original Household Receipts of “Peterson” are quite famous. For 1864 our “Cook-Book” will be continued: EVERY ONE OF THESE RECEIPTS H^S BEEN TESTED. This alone will be worth the price of “Peterson.” Other Receipts for the Toilette, Sick-room, &c., &c., will
he given.
NEW AND FASHIONABLE MUSIC in every number. Equestrianism, and all matters interesting to Ladies. TERMS:— ALWAYS
One Copy
-----
One year, One year,
Also, Hints on Horticulture,
ADVANCE.
IN
Five Copies for One year, - - - - $7.50 Eight Copies for One year. - - - - 10.00 PREMIUMS FOR GETTING UP CLUBS !—Three, Five, or Eight copies, make a Club. To every person getting up a club an extra copy of the Magazine for 1864 will be given. Address, postpaid, S J. for
Three Copies
for
-
-
-
-
$2.00
5.00
I
|
C LIABLE
PETEBSOJST,
Mo. 306 Chestnut ^QT’All Postmasters constituted Agents ; but any person sent gratuitously, if written for.
mens ,
>
,
——
-
may
St. s
get up a club.
Phila. Speci-
j
WORLD. To
Sutlers! Pedlars! Booksellers!
7.
News Agents!
etc.
PETERSON & BROTHERS,
B.
*
ETo.
808 Chestnut
PUBLISH THE
Street, Philadelphia,
MOST SALEABLE BOOKS
IN
THE WORLD,
AMD SUPPLY ALL BOOKS AT VERY LOW RATES. The cheapest place
world to buy or send for a stock of
in the
kinds of Books, suitable for
all
all
persons whatever, for Soldiers, and for
Army, and for all other reading, is at the Bookselling and PubHouse of T. B. PETERSON & BROTHERS, Philadelphia.
the
lishing
Any book
person wanting any books at
all,
in
any quantity, from a single
to a dozeu, a hundred, thousand, ten thousand, or larger quantity
of books,
had better send on
WORLD,”
which
is
their orders at once to the “
AND PUBLISHING HOUSE
EST BOOKSELLING
at T. B.
CHEAPIN
PETERSON & BROTHERS,
THE
No. 306
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, who have the largest stock in the counand will supply them and sell them cheaper than any other house
try,
the world.
in
We
publish a large variety of Military Novels, with
Illustrated Military covers, in colors, besides thousands of others,
all
of which are the best selling
and most popular books in the world. have just issued a new and complete Catalogue, copies of which
We we
send gratuitously to
will
Enclose one, two, dollars, or
five, ten,
more, to us in a
all
on their sending for one.
twenty,
letter, or
fifty,
a hundred, or a thousand
per express, and write what kind
you wish, and they will be packed and sent to you at once, per way you may direct, just as well assorted, and the same as if you were on the spot, with circulars, show
of books first
bills,
express or mail, or in any other
&c., gratis.,
All we ask
is
to give us a trial.
may want at all, no matter by how small or how large your order may be, to the Cheapest Publishing and Bookselling House in the ivorld which is at Address
whom
all
orders for any books you
published, or
,
T. B.
PETERSON Ifo.
And
&
BROTHERS,
306 Chestnut
Street, Philadelphia,
they will be packe d and sent to you within an hour after receipt L
t)f
the order, per express or railroad, or in any other
way you may direct.
»
1
Agents, Sutlers, and Pedlars wanted everywhere, to engage in thet
ealtf^fVar popular selling Books, all of which will be sold at very low rates.
(
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