TT 5 2D
r
^^f
Book
GopigMN" COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT.
N.
S.
SHEIFER'S SYSTEM OF
DESIGNING
and
GRADING
LADIES' MISSES' & CHILDREN'S
GARMENTS Published by N. S.
Copyright,
SHEIFER, 1908
bv N. S. Sheifer.
1908
^N
presenting this work,
I
have the assurance of meeting the
wants of the Designing Profession by furnishing a System of Actual Measurements and Drafting with It
is
a
System
Custom
my System
that will reach every shape for the
trade,
in
cutting
perfect-fitting
Wholesale and
garments.
construction, based on mathematical
simple in
its
principles
which can
Scale Ruler.
A and
System practical
has taken
many
years of study and experimenting, and stands without a
rival.
N.
S.
SHEIFER,
-
easily
-
be mastered.
22
WEST
It
17th ST.,
NEW YORK
<3
A
li>''Or
ny &C
The Measurements 1.
See
inches.
Now
of arm, for
3.
Length
4.
Total length.
5.
Width
of Shoulder.
Depth
of
A,
Fig.
1
i
say 15'-- inches. See Fig.
From A,
Arm. Place
Side Waist. From
say
8
A,
straight
2.
Ruler straight under the
a Pencil or point
See Fig.
inches.
1
say
down
2
1
to
inches.
See
Waist, say 2
Fig. 2.
1
inches.
30
inches.
Fig. 2.
Length
See
Back, say 22'-'
say 7 inches. See Fig.
From A,
of Waist.
arm and measure. From
8.
to the centre of
perfectly
place a pin in Centre of back, level with depth
Nape Measure. From A,
See
good order,
in
is
Nape Measure. See
2.
7.
over the shoulder around the
your measure
that
and close under the arm
level
6.
A
Blade Measure. From point arm.
From
of Sleeve.
A
down
to Wrist,
say
Fig. 3.
From A,
9.
Height
of Bust.
10.
Length
of Front Waist.
IL
Bust.
12.
Waist. Say
13.
Hip. Say 43 inches. See Fig.
Say 39
inches.
25
Full
I
6
From A,
See
inches.
say
say
1
23
'-â&#x20AC;˘
See
Fig. 5. 5.
Measurements 12
21
6-23 -â&#x20AC;&#x201D;39-25-43 '
Fig. 4.
inches.
Fig. 5.
22'.- 7-15'-- 8 30
See
inches.
See
Fig. 4.
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
Drafting the Outlines Measurements 7—15'.— 8-12—21 16— 23',— 39— 25— 43
22'/.— 30 1.
Draw
line
on bottom 2 by
of paper.
2.
Square
3.
Blade measure 22 Vj inches. Apply 22'
4.
Depth
5.
Nape measure
6.
Length
7.
Side waist 21
line
arm
of
8.
10.
.
'
inches.
Blade measure 22
'
Draw
line 4.
From
'
_>
'
lines
Apply 8
^4 inches less than there
line 2,
Divide
'
39
is
1
of space
;,
Apply 22'. on
from point 12
Apply
Measure the distance from line 3 to point 9. same number 8 . on scale No. 3 from pomt
half
inches for seams from point
1
'
;
space between 21
of
to
pomt
1
of bust
measure
2 over pomt
1
1
to
parallel
Draw
6.
Draw
Add
20.
'4
'
.
mches
hne from 20
mch
for
:
apply
to 21.
notch collar.
6 mches.
Add
1
'
.
mches, apply 17'. mches from
7.
hne from point 7
with hne 25 and
26.
3 inches from hne 3.
27.
Hip
line
1
4.
Front waist measure 23'. mches, add 17.
5.
2.
Square hne from pomt 20 by hne Height
4.
Say you have 8
1
from 22
12.
9.
'
21,
No. 2 from pomt
from hne 8 and
21.
inches.
scale
hne
to
Bust measure
line
line up.
6.
Allow 3
From
Draw
from 5 to II.
19.
Draw
Apply
(say 5 inches).
1
5.
I
inch from point
point 12,
inches on scale No. 2 from line 3
20.
pomt
lines
3 parts between 9 and 10.
in
From
I
Apply 22'.
No. 3 from point
18.
25.
line
inches from 5.
inches from line 3 to point
in
Blade measure 22'. inches.
line
1
Draw
from 8 to 5 and from 5 to corner of
Allow
24.
line.
1
Draw
1 7.
23.
line
inches from point 5 on line
j
inches from line 2 on line 3.
16.
22.
4 on
Draw
hne.
Apply 21
inches.
5 on scale
inch from hne
2
5
line I.
Draw
Ime from 9 to 10.
Measure the distance
1
1
from
1
line 2.
7 inches from line
Apply
inches.
_>
on scale No.
.
2 inches from
3.
13 and 14. 15.
5
1
1
7.
same number, 12.
Apply
7 inches.
Shoulder measure 8 inches.
on 1 1
Apply
2 inches from point 6. 2 and
9.
1
2 inches.
1
of waist
from 6 to
line
7.
6 inches below waist
line.
.^4
mch, apply 24 '4 from hne 2 over
to 25.
Draw
the bust hne from
pomt 24
n.s.sheifer's, system.
Drafting a Tight=Fitting Coat, One Dart A.
inch from point
1
C.
from point 13.
'4 inch
I
B.
4.
1
'4 inch from point 10.
I
D.
Width
of
back
at waist
about 2 inches.
E.
Width
of
back
at hip
inch wider than on waist.
Draw
F.
I
inch from D.
G.
1
inch from hne 3
H. I
In center
and J.
">
K.
L N.
line
G
M.
F
G
inch above line 4.
P.
-'_,^
mch
Width Drop
S.
-^4
T.
2
U.
1
is
V.
'4 inch
same
below
The
at the waist.
garment
at the waist
'4 of waist measure, allowing for seams.
H
at the hip.
G. Waist
G
inches from line
as
width
of
shoulder for back.
line 4.
length of front to correspond with length of side gore.
at the hip line.
inch from point 25 on waist line
draw
20 and U.
a line from point
This
line
the center of front.
Measure the width
W and X. waist dart. line
V
down
line
Measure measure,
to
at
line parallel
with
line
for
2
'
..
parallel with line
inches from line
inch less than half of
U
seams, and take out
V
to
at the waist
X.
Draw
the balance at the
Hne
I
'4 inch from
the dart lines from waist
to
style,
say
I
'
_.
inches for single breasted
double breasted.
should be applied
in all
cases at the hip to prove that the parts
garment correspond with hip measure, making allowances
making up.
deduct '4 of
to S,
V.
for lap of coat according
for
1
U.
the width of front at the waist Hne from
making allowances
W and
Tape measure for
the bust line and apply
front
Draw
Say you have 3i^ inches over: take out
Allowance
of the
of
U.
and about 3 inches
CSy"
H
hne.
8 must measure
of shoulder for front
side gore
measure from
Y.
draw
from B.
inch from line 2
'
G
at the hip.
^
R.
and F.
at the hip.
O.
Q.
and
inch from each side of line
1
inch from line
1
F
lines
C
from
hne.
to point
inch from hne
I
and
between
down
hne
draw
inch from each side of hne
s
from
line
1
for
seams and
N.S.SHEIFERS. SYSTEM
Drafting a Tight=Fitting Coat,
A. B.
C.
1
'-'
Inch from point 25,
draw
Two
from point
line
Darts
20 and A.
In center of front at the bust hne.
In center of
parallel
D. and E.
A
hne
with
line
Measure the width
waist measure and
make allowances
2 inches from E.
G.
2
H.
Draw
I.
2
'
J
1
for '4
seams
inch,
"
n
down
inches from
C
U
of
parallel
H
at
with
the hip.
line
C.
deduct
inch on each side at
inches (balance of the waist measure) from F. line
from point
say you have over
line.
F.
'4
down
hne
of front at the waist line,
3/2 inches, take out of front dart waist
Draw
and point B.
A.
N.S.SHEIFER'S, SYSTEM,
Drafting a Tight=Fitting Back and Senii=Fitting Front
A.
1
'-
inches from point 25.
B.
Same
as tight-fitting one dart.
C.
From
line
A at
Draw hne
from
D.
2
E.
3
F.
Allowance
'
2
'
-^
for
the hip,
B
'
i
inch
C
for lap,
than there
is
A to B.
from hne
and C.
inches for dart at the waist inches from
less
at the
hip
2 inches
double breasted.
line.
line.
for single
breasted and 3 to 3
'
-^
inches
N.S.SHEIFER'S, SYSTEM.
Drafting the Eton Jackets Figure
1.
A.
In center
B.
-> inch less than the fourth part of waist
between
width of back
at
3 and point
line
Back without seam take
D.
Take
E.
Draw
F.
Dart
out for 2 seams
'
D
G.
For
measure
collarless,
allow
B.
Width
C.
1
D.
^
E.
2
'
"^
'
of
inch from line
J
inches from
'
--
inches for
s
inch.
inches from
--
to line
3
at
C D.
A
D.
to
waist
line.
Dart
to
be taken out accord-
making allowance
for seams.
to '+ inch at the neck.
Eton Jacket with gore. 1
4.
back according
inch from line 3
-'
x
^
2.
inch below point
-"4-
measure, 5
by deducting the back, and take out balance
in dart,
Figure
A.
'
as tight-fitting coat.
ing to waist measure of waist
off
1
from point
same
line
0.
the waist.
C.
line
1
to style
draw
and
line.
at the waist line.
taste,
say about 3 inches.
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
i
i
Box Coat
Drafting a A.
Take
B.
According
seam
'-'
off
h
Allow
D.
In center
E.
From
>;
3
line
E
to
1
'4
I
'4
inches from point
G.
I
'4
to
H. I.
J.
K. L.
E
1
for front
Length
A
from
3
and B.
0. is
line
to
D.
D.
from
Draw
line
for
back from
D
F and G. pomt
Box Coat.
for
pomt 25.
of coat, square line
inch from line
'-â&#x20AC;˘
2 inches
to
down from
inches less than there
inch on neck shoulder
inch from
'::
I
inches from point E.
'-'
and
Allow
line
'-^
inch to height of neck.
F.
and
Draw
between Ime 3 and pomt
1
5.
you may allow from
the waist.
at
1
pomt
inch from
to fullness of back,
outside of line
C.
'
Measure from
D
up with
line
I
J.
to
K
(length of back) and apply
same measure
from F.
M. For
short coat,
1
'--
inch and for long coat,
N.
2
O.
3'-!
P.
Pocket 3 inches below waist
'
-'
1
inch from line
J.
inches for single breasted. to
4 inches
for
double breasted.
hole and place pocket
For
'^4
full
".;
line.
toward
front
Draw and
line '
,
down
with arm-
toward back.
length loose coat at the bottom, cut the back not less than
8 inches and
front
27
inches.
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM,
I
i
Drafting a Semi-Fitting Coat A.
inch from point 8.
'-'
B.
1
inch from line
C.
I
inch
D.
below point
Width
Width 'i
G.
Width
H. I.
-*
1
back
of
to
^
4'-'
to
U
F.
4.
1
hip
at
of side gore,
Draw
a matter of style and taste
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; say
inch wider than at waist.
1
D.
which
is
matter of
taste,
about
U
inch from
line.
G
at
H
to
I
mch from
is
inches.
inch from line
'3
which
at waist,
inch from point
3.
line
back
of
from 4 E.
1
the waist at
line.
the waist line and take but
seam
H
inch between gore and front at the armhole. J.
I
K.
i
inch from line '-'
at
inches from line
Box Coat. L.
Allow
M.
Dart
N.
From 2
'
1
Dotted
to
G
lines
the hip at
the hip
shows
2
'
-'
with
line
line.
Draft front same as
front semi-fitting cut with dart.
L.
inches for dart at waist line.
out at bottom of dart as
23
line.
inches.
-'
parallel
line
Take line
G
to line
L.
much
as there
is
at
bottom from
N.S.SHEIFER'S,
SYSTEM
i
Drafting a French=Seani Tight=Fitting Coat
A.
1
'+
inches from point
B.
2^s inches from point
C.
In center
back
between point
Curve
at waist.
D.
Take
E.
From
point
from
E
out
'
^
1
1
4.
13.
1
in
1
and
B draw
the back about
'4
C
to
width of
inch from hne.
inch from point C.
7 the same as from point 11
to dart.
F.
Allow
G.
From F same
'4
hne from
inch for seam from E. as from
D
to
B.
to
C.
Draft front
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
I
1
Drafting a Tight=Fitting Double French=Seain Coat
A.
If
B.
About
C.
Width
back without seam take
V2
1
'
1
of
Width
E.
'4
F.
I
back
at the
of
back
Draw
G.
Draw hne
H.
V
from point
inch from Hne
From
H
to
I,
I
V
K.
'
L.
2 inches from K.
M.
E
at
1
1
inch.
1
s
B
O.
at
waist hne.
and E.
double the width as from hne
is
for
.'-'
A
to
seam.
3 to F. the hip hne.
E
to F.
inch from F.
inch from
G.
Measure the distance from
I
to
1
B
and allow
seam, and apply same measure from point
N.
A
inch wider than waist hne.
hne from
^
a matter of taste, say
is
inch) from line
inch wider than from
J.
N
U
E, which
and adding
at waist,
x
(U
half
the hip
inch from C.
'
waist Hne, which
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; take
at
~s inches from
C
1.
inches from point
3
inches finish
D.
off
Allow
U
inch for
seam from
M to
Measure the distance from B
to
G
N
to
U
Allow
Q.
From P
inch for seam from
the
same measure
Seams must be allowed part.
to
as
O
to
from
7 to
x
^
inch for half
M.
N.
seam, apply same measure from
P.
1
and allow
'
s
inch for half
O.
P.
K
to
L.
back from point B,
'
-'
seam on each
N.S.SHEIFER'S, SYSTEM.
\
Drafting a 17-Piece Corset Coat Back drafted same
as double
A.
P-' inches from hne 3
B.
U mch
C
and D.
draw
3 parts between
in
Take
out at the waist hne
Take
out
At
Hne.
out for gore.
Divide
of Hne
French-seam coat.
D
'4
A and
inch toward the front and
at the waist, so as to
the hip line allow
B, draw hne for gores.
mch from each
'4
U mch
make
'--
side of hnes
A and C.
inch toward the back
the side gores equal width.
on each side of
A,
lines
B, C, D.
All these points are subject to measurements of waist and hip.
Tape measure
should be applied on draft to prove
if
measurements
are correct.
E,
F
and G.
Divide
in
4
parts
between
A
line
and
front.
Draft the front darts as usual.
H. I.
1
J.
between
In centre,
inch on each side of line
Have seams on seam
draw
H
line
from
G
and H.
A.
at the hip.
shoulder to correspond
same
as double French-
coat.
Allow
for
and
inch to each of the 3 gores to
seam 1
dart,
inches at the hip line from line
/3
'2
A and
'4
extra seams to back and for the extra seam on front
make up
for the additional
of a gore.
8-Piece Coat
is
drafted by having a seam in centre of back and mak-
ing the width at the waist of back and next part the
say from
1
piece coat.
/^
to
1
'
>^
inch.
same width,
All other parts drafted same as
I
7-
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM
\
1
1
Drafting a 22-Piece Corset Coat A.
About
B.
Width 1
'4 inch
E.
About
C
H.
2 inches from
\
From
E
to J,
K.
From
I,
'
at the
G
N.
1
P,
Q, R,
!
L,
seam.
>-i'
hip
line.
at the hip line.
U.
Allow ^4 inch
V.
From
W.
Allow
X.
From
Y.
Allow
Z.
Draw waist
point
U
1
7
same
same
W same -^4
line,
as
I
from
A
from
II
to
as from
E
E.
bust
line.
including allowance for half seam.
to J, including
P
parallel
allowance
for
seam.
^4 inches at waist
hip
allowance
for half
seam.
X. with
and deduct the 4th part
at
A,
to E, including
inch for seam from
'
1
K.
to
seam from V.
from point
2 4 inches 1
to
in 5 parts at the
as
you have 3 inches over, take out I
to F.
seam from T.
for
^4 inch for
line
D
Divide gores same as 17- or 18-piece coat.
at waist line.
Divide front
S.
A
seam wider than from
at the hip line.
K
inch from
2
2
H
From
4.
inch for
s
A.
inch wider than from
1
T.
3.
:^
inch wider than waist.
1
seam wider than from
..
inch from
-"^4.
From
1.
Allow
inch from F.
J.
2.
finish.
inch from D.
I
M.
at the hip
inches from
;^4
34 inch from
L.
inch
1
from B. 1
G.
I.
1
the waist, say
at
back
of
D.
F.
back
of
1
inches.
3 X
Width
C.
inch from point
1
front.
of waist
.^4
inch on
Now
measure the width
of
front at
measure, including 3 seams. first
dart on waist
Say
line.
line.
line.
inch for second dart.
^4 inches at waist
line.
5.
2 '4 inches
6.
^4.
inch third dart at waist
7.
'2
inch balance of the 3 inches.
8.
2 '4 inches
Make
at hip line.
at
hip
allowance
for front
on
age of one seam.
line.
for extra
line S,
line.
seams
and add
at the
'4 inch for
back on
lines
A
and E,
each of the 3 gores
to
also extra
make up
seam short-
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
I
Drafting a French=Seam Semi=Fitting Coat
A.
Allow
'^
inch from point 8.
B.
Width
of
back
3
to
C.
D. E.
'
-
Width
Width
back
of
U
to
'-'
G.
^
N
'
1
to
a matter of taste,
from 3
4
inches.
inch from B.
which
of side body,
Draw
E
inch from line J
is
the shoulder about
at
inch from line 3.
F.
which
at the waist,
mches.
at
is
a matter of taste, from
to
1
'+
line.
the waist
line.
2 inches from F, take out seam
front at the
U
U
inch between gore and
Front dart same as semi-fitting front; see that
armhole.
seams on shoulder correspond.
Dotted
lines
on back show
how same
coat
is
cut without
seam
in
centre of back.
H.
Take at
1.
off
^^
N
inch
waist from 2
Width
of
back
'
(
-'
at
-'
seam) and draw
to
hip
line
down.
Width
of
3 inches. 1
inch wider than waist, from line
H.
back
N.S.SHEIFER'S. SYSTEM.
1
1 Drafting the Collars Fig. 1
Draw
the length of lapel
line
for stand of collar, say
A
Same width
B.
to
Notch or Shawl Collar
.
I
^2
as width of
back
1
inch above neck shoulder point,
B.
1
inch from
G
according
to style.
to F, also
from
Same
H.
C
to
F
line
B.
Neck measure and add 3
C.
Same width
D.
From
E.
2 inches from
G I
I
'4
and H.
and
J.
Height
line.
Suitable for Fur line as
deep
as
A
of Collar
D
same
A
to
C.
A. line
A.
inch on each side of
to B.
Storm Collar
seams, and
as from
pomt
about 6 mches.
as neck at top of back.
mch from I
top of neck.
the distance from
Fig. 3.
F.
draw
as measure from neck shoulder
Square
to
line
you want
collar.
and neck, and down to D. Width of collar D to E and apply same from E must measure the same as from C to D.
Measure
A.
C
and draw
A.
Draft collar from B, touching
to
at the
Wide Shawl
Fig. 2.
A.
C.
desire to neck shoulder point,
you
inches.
line.
'u inch on each side of line.
^4.
mch down.
n.s.sheifer's, system.
Drafting a Sleeve Fig. 1. 1.
Draw
2.
Square
3.
Blade measure 11^2. from
4.
line.
line
Depth
by
line
of
1
,
line
draw
arm
1
11'^
5.
Blade measure
2 inches from point
7.
2 inches from
8.
Length
9.
line
1
scale
No.
^
inches for seams from
'2
between
line 4,
1
'
line
2,
from
line
line 2;
3 on
arm measure
1
say about
style,
draw
line 4.
line 4.
1
2 inches, and apply
^
1
I
inches
finish;
apply
0.
point 8.
inches lower than from line 4 to 12;
draw
line
from
in
front
I
2 to 13.
inches from 12.
3 and
between
In centre
between 13 and
show
according to
4 and
In centre
Cut under
sleeve
I
1
4.
15.
the allowance to upper sleeve
cording to
Dotted
inch longer at bottom.
'^
and reduce
Cross points show the allowance for larger
1 7.
from
1
at the wrist,
'
From
16.
13 '4 inches
inches.
line 3.
inches from 9.
13.
1
half (6 inches)
inches, deduct depth of
4 on
J
In centre
1 5.
4 on hne
'
12.
14.
add 2
'4) and
5.
line
10. Width of sleeve
11.
I
inch from point 8.
I
5
On
inches.
2
30
of sleeve
8 inches from
half (I
Apply one
2 inches.
1
6.
1
Apply one
hne.
as
sleeve,
lines
much
for
which can be enlarged ac-
style.
Measure from point
1
6
to 7
and apply same from
ance for head of sleeve according Fig.
2
1
6
to
17 and
make
Represents the sleeve cut
in
one piece.
Place upper and under sleeve lapping over a seam as far as the elbow.
B.
Make
allowance from 4 Fig.
you want
to 5 inches
;
according to
3 --Represents
one piece sleeve
in
style.
the Bishop sleeve.
centre and open on bottom according to
top of sleeve can be
allow-
to style.
A.
Split the
of sleeve
under sleeve.
made
smaller
what width
by lapping over one on the other.
^ ^
n.s.sheifer's, system.
\7
i.
Hood
Drafting a Cape and Fig. 1.
Draw A. B.
line.
Place the back 2 inches from
line at the waist
Place the front and back together
at
the shoulder lapping over a
seam.
C.
Cut neck
Cape
of
cape
'
inch lower.
-'
length over shoulder to be cut from 2
than length of back and
Fig.
D.
Length
of
E.
About
1
F.
About 4
'
to
-â&#x20AC;˘
3 inches longer
front.
2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Drafting a Hood.
hood about
1
3 inches from neck.
3 inches from D.
E
inches from
and curve up about
'
1
-'
inches.
Fig. 3.
This diagram shows
how
cape
is
reduced
in
sweep
at
bottom, by
cutting with 2 darts on shoulder.
G.
H. 1.
Back dart same length and width 1
'2
as shoulder of back.
inch wide.
3 inches from G.
Reduce your sweep
of
you require and allow
cape for
at the
bottom according
seams on shoulder
darts.
to
what width
-OlO
^'
Drafting a Skirt Measurements 25 43 42 44
Waist
Hip
.
.
Front length
Side
Draw
B.
Square
C.
Waist measure 25 inches
44-
"
Back
A.
line.
by
line
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
5
I
C
D.
3
E.
Hip
F.
Half of hip measure from
'
inches from
-'
line
6
inches
G.
Front length of
H.
Side length of
I.
Back length
J.
Width width
K.
Width
M.
Now
from
line
below waist line
half of
A on
and add 3
measure
line B.
D
to cor. of lines
A
and B.
line.
A
on
line
E.
skirt.
skirt.
of skirt.
According
to style.
Draw
line J
from
bottom touching point F. front,
of
on the number L. and
draw
of skirt at bottom.
at
Apply
inches.
inches from line
2
'
A.
line
If
which
is
a matter of style and taste, and depends
of gores.
seven-gore skirt divide
m
K
3 parts between
measure the distance between
lines
A
and
and
line J.
J at the waist,
deduct half of waist measure and take out balance of measure be-
tween
darts,
making the strongest
All seams must be allowed
Shows how
Fig. 2.
a
skirt
dart at the largest part of hip.
for in skirt patterns.
yoke
is
Cut
cut.
off
the top of skirt to
hip and place darts together, this will form the yoke.
A
circular skirt can
down Fig. 3. in as
with
front
Shows how many gores
be cut from yoke by simply drawing
lines
and back. skirt
as
is
divided into
you require.
1
3 gores, or you
may
divide
C
n.s.sheifer's.
system
0/
Extension of Length to a Short Coat
A and
B.
lines
C
Place ruler
'4
inch from waist to the hip point and
U
inch from waist to hip point and
draw
down.
and D.
Place
ruler
Same
as
draw
lines
and draw
line
down.
E
and F.
G.
Place ruler
1
'2
C
and D.
inches from waist to hip point
down. I
and J.
Draw
lines straight
down
with dart
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
Drafting a Skirt Coat cutting a skirt
In
you
A. B.
garment cut out the plain parts
Start skirt about
B
length
should
Make than
From
1
'--
inches
below waist
2 inches below waist.
be shaped a
for skirt
little
This
is
a matter of taste
higher or lower.
higher and
make a
Skirt at point
dart at point
B
hip.
the
in
inch apart
at the hip.
you can bring the seam
for the
E.
U
Place front and side gore
as
D.
to
Place side gores together from waist, lapping over a seam.
and lap over a seam
C.
first
require.
seam below waist
for skirt in front
about
1
inch lower
back.
D
same width
as there
is
from
i
to
2 deducting a seam.
N.S.SHEIFER'S. SYSTEM.
Drafting Children's Garments SIZE 8
OR ANY OTHER
G
1.
Draw
2.
Square
line
3.
For
ches.
measure 26^2 inApply 26 1 2 on proportion
scale.
From
line.
by
line
draw
1
line.
4.
From line 2 same 3 draw hne.
as from line
5.
Length
2 inches
Apply
8.
6.
7.
of waist
of
waist,
on
line
2
5 ',
J.
Dotted 1
of waist
^
4
2 mches from 5
I
Draw 2 the same as from
line
Draw
1
lines
1
and
Sleeve
2.
line
3.
line straight up.
inches.
2
Children's
the
8 bust measure 26 J/^, on proportion scale. 2 draw line. From hne
For
size
apply 26 8.
the
proportion the
in
inch.
Drafting
1
to 6. '
waist and
and front at the armhole -^4 inch and add to top of back at the neck
for size
inches from line
2
at
box coat which is same as Take out between back
show
lines
drafted
to
inch less than half
>
23
'4 inch from line
1
draw hne from 22.
Ladies.
1
side of line
I
Length on line
From
'
I
I
size 8, bust
line
SIZE
inch on each and H. F on hip line.
'
1
From
9 and 10.
same number measures on scale 3
line
on scale 2 as to 3. from
it
4.
11, 12, 13 and 14.
m
same as
From
line
2 one half of the dis-
tance that there
1
1
Draw
line.
From
line
16.
inch from line
1
From 12 hne
5.
Add
8.
From 1
scale
from 10
as
to
6.
3.
17. 1
1
same
the
inch.
!> 2,
I
2 and
'
;,
the distance
between
line 4.
19.
Half of bust.
20.
Add
21.
In proportion the same as in Ladies.
3 inches.
22.
In proportion the
23.
Square by
27.
A.
Hip
line
-^4
inch. inch.
B.
3/^
C.
Width
D.
Width
of
same
as in Ladies.
line 4.
4 inches below waist
back
of
at waist
back
at
line.
about 3
hip
''4
in.
inch
wider than waist. inch from C.
E.
-^4
F.
About line .'
s
-^4
1
to
3.
In proportion the
Ladies.
3 on scale No. 2 the
same number 15.
from
is
inch from line 3
and take out
at waist
inch on each side.
draw
'4 inch,
I
,
from
as 1
to
it
3.
measures on
N.S.SHEIFER'S, SYSTEM.
Grading Patterns of Ladies' Garments
Add
lo larger
and reduce smaller
sizes.
Grading the Back A. B.
/8
^/A-
C.
'4
inch for width of neck at the top of back, inch for width of back. inch in width of back and 's inch in height.
36 you For
D.
can make the waist
add
tight-fitting
'
>;
mch
U for
mch
For
sizes
below
shorter at top of back.
width
at waist line.
Grading the Gores
E
For 2
and F. For
side-gores to pattern
gore add
I
'4
add
'
«
inch to each in width.
inch to width.
Grading the Front G.
H
inch from neck shoulder point.
It is
not advisable to increase the height of shoulder above size
36
as the
size
inch (point
G)
cut so large at the present time.
is
I.
Armhole
of shoulder
J.
%
K.
From
L.
Dart
M.
^8 inch
N.
IT,
1',;
'
s
For
size.
reduce the height of shoulder
Width
'
«
sizes
inch.
inch size to size.
inch.
inch for width of hont.
G '4
y» inch
for neck
for
each
size.
inch.
Grading the Sleeve in
width and
'
n
inch in height.
inch in width.
O.
T^ in
P.
fV inch in
the
36 '4
parallel with shoulder, which makes the neck shoul-
der point higher from size to
H.
Add
width and width.
'
s
inch in height.
below 36 you can
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
Grading the French-Seam Pattern A. B.
tV,
C.
/'^
D.
If
E. F.
inch for width of neck at the top of back.
/'>!
'
inch in width and
2 gores,
H.
i'.
J.
Til
width, and
's inch in
if
\
1
gore,
>;
inch lower.
inch.
inch in width, inch in width inch in width of shoulder.
For I.
inch in height.
inch in height.
Tf;
/+
n
inch in width.
'"!
G.
'
below 36 make shoulder
sizes
'
inch in width.
Neck
inch in width.
'4
Lengths of front
's inch size to size.
must be matched from shoulder and make allowance reduce
for smaller sizes.
Grading the back where there are 2 parts front,
Eton
K.
/+ inch
L.
/'a
M.
in
or
width
other, for It
is
to pattern
back and
of back.
This diagram shows and
and
Box Coat.
Grade
inch in width of underarm seam.
terns
for larger
See diagram.
styles
so as to
how
armholes
in sizes
should be cut down,
make armholes
larger
'4
front as usual.
from
40 up
in all pat-
inch from each size to the
and underarm lengths
shorter
large sizes.
also advisable to
of size
44 from
waist
make
down
a
little
more allowance
to front
and
in darts.
for
the fronts
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
Grading Misses' Patterns Back A.
}'Âť
B.
ys inch
C.
^4 inch in width of back.
D.
%
E.
Width of back from A. Length of waist ments should be made same width for all misses'
inch in height of neck.
width
in
inch
of neck.
width and
in
'
'
inch in height.
s
at the waist for tight-fitting gar-
>
sizes.
Side Gores yit.
G.
From F
H. I.
'
and
height
F.
in
G
to
'
inch in width
8
correspond
to
inch in height and
s
From add
H
to
and
'4 inch in height
in length
way down.
the
with back from
C
to waist line..
inch in width.
s
correspond
to
1
'
all
with back gore.
in length
'4 inch in
width
If
one gore
pattern,
to
at point F.
Front width and
'4 inch in
K.
yi inch for width of front.
L.
Neck
M.
Shoulder
N.
vfi
O.
Underarm
P.
Dart
'
s
inch for each
width
in
neck shoulder point.
'4 inch in height of
J.
size.
correspond with back shoulder.
to
inch for armhole. length to correspond with gore.
Cut
'4 inch in width.
'4 inch larger for large sizes.
dart at waist
Grading Children's Patterns Q. R.
'4.
inch
height.
in
Width same
Keep width
inch for length of waist.
i
as Misses.
ren sizes, with exception of loose back,
of back at waist same width for all childwhere allowance must be made all the
way down. S.
T.
U. V.
inch
in
height
From S
to
T
'
s
'4 inch in 12
to
and
s
inch width.
correspond
inch for width of front.
Underarm
in
width and '4 inch
at waist so as to leave
W.
'
length with back. in
height of neck shoulder point.
For smaller
more width
sizes
for the
you may reduce
abdomen
less
than
j 2
inch
of smaller children.
length to correspond with gore length.
Grading Misses' and Children's Sleeves Grade
the width
Misses',
lengths
The
same
as Ladies' sizes.
For the lengths add and reduce
'
_.
inch to
For children's from elbow up and '4 from elbow down. inch from elbow down. inch from elbow up and inch,
'4 inch
add
1
'
'
_.
_.
proportions for lengths of Misses' and Children's garments depend generally
on the trade
of the manufacturer
and
is
mostly furnished by the house to the designer.
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
Seams Allowed on such
Drafting a Pattern Without
as Suitable for Fine Ladies' Tailoring A.
On
B.
In
C.
Width
D.
About 2 mches from pomt
E.
1
No. 3 one number
scale
instead of 5 apply 4.
one number lower.
thirds
!^
less;
back
of
inches
at waist
about
'+
1
1
below Ime 3 draw
inches.
0. line
and divide gores from E; take
out at waist line according to waist measure
waist measure from
E
F.
Blade measure on scale No. 2,
G.
Add V
inch to half of bust measure
H.
From F
';,
I.
^4
J.
K.
1
inch above point
This point to
is
8
from
is
of
1
'+
line
inches less from line 3.
3 to G.
armhole.
for I
U
for
shoulder.
a matter of taste.
Dart can be placed either further
front or back.
Dart
have
at waist to '4
of waist
All other in
part as there
inch from line 3
which must be
including the back.
styles
proportion.
be taken out according to measure.
measure
Front must
at the waist.
patterns without seams can be cut the
same way
N.S.SHEIFERS, SYSTEM.
im
1
J308
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013 973 189 A *
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