Plana star de luxe ci by David Mannock

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Greeti ngs, As the user of an ELNA yo u have chosen on e of the world's fi nest precisio n- made sewin g machi nes. It offers you new dimen sions of home sewing : satisfaction - simplicity - versatility Depend upon th e easy-to-foll ow instructions in this booklet t o use properly and care f or your won derful ELNA. When you have become we ll acquainted with your machine you can save time and money by referring to the handy index of general subjects on page 2.

I am the ELNA elf, inviting you first of all to go throu gh t he booklet with me-page by page. Follow me closely and find that home sewing can be relaxing and pleasurable-not hard workalso that a good understanding of these instructio ns can eliminate costly service calls as t ime goes on . Ready-let's go . ..

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Contents and Usef u l Hi nt s

Pages

Prepari n g y our ELNA Gi vin g your m hln Iii s rves Is your gu r p rfo rm In

3-10

II d -

EL NA S t ar de Lu x e CI. 41 EL NA P lana Star de Luxe CI. 43

p rf cl

Evon t h b t wing m Ichlno wil l not se w prop erl y wi th a needle 0'1 poo r quality. Choose needles of fi rst- class qua lity, system 705 or the American styl e 15 x1.

ELNA S u per CI. 62 ELN A Plana Super CI. 64

• Needle and thread must be adapted to t he kind of work to be done. ELNAgraph Straight Sewing

11 12-1 3

• Universal tension 13 S ewing with autom at ic stitches 14- 16 an d 23 • Selecti on dial fo r use with th e built- in ELN A discs • Int erchangeable EL NAdiscs

15 and 23

• Variations of St itch Width • Cente ring th e Needle Some Pract i cal S ew ing

16 16 17-22

Additional ELN A Su p er Features

• " Com b i " Stitch Pattern s

• B uttonhole, N o-turn 24 • Practical S t it c hes w ith EL NA Super 25-26 • First fam iliarize yourself wit h the sim pl er kin ds of work. You will t hen take better advantag e of th e many other possi bi lities prov ided by your ELNA. Other Uses of EL N Adiscs Assortment of ELNAdiscs

Examp les of .. Com bi " S t itc h Pattern s

Ext ra Accesso r ies Servici ng and D isorders

28 29- 30 31

• Do not try to remedy a di sorder without first havin g consulted our recommendat ions. • Make as much use of your ELNA service as you wish . In each ELNA shop , th ere is a qualified personnel ready to help you. Under the conditions of the guarantee, they are the only ones competent to deal with . technical matters concerning your mach ine. Tab le of Adjustm ents

Alph ab etic Index

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Preparing your ELNA

Opening t he case an d Unpack ing

â&#x20AC;˘ f or the f ree-a rm ELNA. Fig. 3

Remo ve the 4 screws at th e bottom; â&#x20AC;˘ Keep them i n t he accessory box for use again, if necessary (important f or sh ippin g) . Fig. 4

o pen the fla p. Fig. 5 a

Remove the co ver. Take out t he foot co ntrol. Fig. 5 b

Take out the machin e, the acce sso ry box. Fig. 6

Sewing Table T o increase t he sewin g su rface, use the cover as a sewin g tabl e.

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Accessories The accessory box contains t he f ollowin g standard accessori es: 1 presser foot (already on t he machine) (7) 1 darning foot (8) 1 darning an d button plat 1 zipper f oot (9) 1 embroid ery and button holo f ot (10) 1 butto nh ole kni'l 5 bobbin s 1 assort ment of 5 need l s 1 needle t hreader 6 sin gle ELNAdi scs 1 screwdri ver 1 cl eani ng brush 1 empty oiler 1 ELN A - oil refill Ad diti o nal for ELNA Super : 1 buttonhole f oot (11) 1 assort ment of 10 (instead of 5) needles 1 single ELNAdisc (instead of 6) 5 double ELNAdiscs How to use the acce ssories is expl ained f rom page 17 onwards. Fig. 12

Electri cal C ontrol s Check t he voltage on the switc h plate. Make sure th at t he vo lta ge is the same as that indicated on the light bulbs in your home. If th is is not t h ~ case, do not plug in the machi ne, but get in touch with the ELNA service. D o not go by the markin gs on the wall plugs. Electric Foot Control and Cord Plu g th ese in as shown in fig. 12. Electronic Foot Control If the fo ot control is marked" el ectronic " , it is also equi pped with a small switch as shown in this sket ch. You then have two ran ges of sewing speeds, namely :

"+ "

Fast speed : W ith the switch at Slo w sp eed : ' With the switch at" - " Starti ng the Machine The more you press the foot control pe dal down, th e f aster t he machine runs . Fig. 13

Sew i ng Light The switch is on the switch plate. To replace the bulb: First of all, pull out the plug . Press wit h the screwdriver to make the lamp come out. Bayonet socket : pus h in, turn and remove th e bulb.

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15 Maintenance and Cl eaning T he ELNA will always serve you fa ithfully if it is care d f or properly. Fig . 14

Remove t he needle and f oot. Ope n t he rota ry hook cover. T ake off the needle pl ate (with t he screwdriver). Bru sh t he rotary hook and feed d og with th e cl ean ing bru sh , t o remove t he pi ec es of th read and lint . Oiling Fig. 15-16

To oil t he machin e, raise the t hread ta k e-u p lever (see arrow) . Use on ly good quality oil f or your se wing machine. Two dro p s of ELN A oil will suffice for each oil hole. The latter are pai nted red . Oil occasionally acc ordin g to use. I n case of prolo ng ed , u nint err upted use, place o ne dro p of o il o n t he rotary hoo k f rom tim e t o t im e. Fig. 17

Insertion of t he needl e plate. 17

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Fig. 18-19

Quick Change of the Presser Feetwi thout a screwdriver. For all ac cess ories, wh ther sta nd ard or extra, rai se th e needle bar and the presser bar. T urn out the wings of t he clampin g sc rew and loosen it. Fa sten t he f oot. Tigh ten t he cla mping screw, tu rn in th e wi ng s.

Fig. 20

N . B . The darning f oot is fa stened fro m th e rear, th e lever of the foot pa ssing behind t he need le clamp stud. Make sure t o l ower t he p res ser fo ot leve r before starting to darn .

Threads The use of g oo d qu ali t y du ll or me rce riz ed threa d is prefera ble. A dry t hread be com es brittle. It reg ains its st re,ngth when placed near an open window overn ig ht.

Fig. 21

For darn ing, use left twist thread (stronger) . C hoic e of T hreads and Needles Sel ect the th read according to the kind of work and material used, t he needle according to the thread: Darn ing, sewing or embroidery thread according t o the fineness, durabil ity and the ap pearance to be given t o the sewing work.

Threads Silk

ISynthetic Fibres

sewing

Materials Cotton

Sheer

120·100·

Needles System 705

I5X1

--- --- --Used (darning)

darning

120-100·

darning darning

- - - --Ordinary

100-60·

sewing

--- - - Medium and heavy weights

80-40·

sewing

80-90

12-14

·Sizes may change depending on the country.

21 ---- -----~~

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Needle Fig. 22 Insert the needle into the needle clamp, the flat of t h e n eedle against th e i n d ex fin g er. Make sure that the needle is pu shed as f ar as it will g o . Tighten th e screw firmly (witho ut screwdriver).

B o bbin Windi ng Fig. 23-24 Oesengage the flywheel by unsc rewing the coupling knob by a q uarter of a turn. Fig. 24 a

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder w ith the h o les on top. The thread wi ll the n wind and unwind automatically in the right di rection .

-----~ g~.",.

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.....

Push the bobbin winder to the right. Pull out the spool pin. Place the spool on it and pass the thread through the guide. Wind the end of th e thread around the bobbin by hand, then wind by machine, w h ile p ressing lightly on the spo ol with the left hand, in order t o streIch the thread and fill the bobbin evenly (fig . 24). T he bobbin stops automatically wh en it is f ull.

24 a

Fig. 23 Tighten the flywheel couplin g kn ob firmly (tu rn knob in opposite direction to the arrow), cut the thread and remove the bobbin by pushing away the bobbin winder.

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Fig. 25

The bobbin sh ould un wi nd in th e direction of t he arrow. Fig. 26

Inserting the Bobbin and T hreading t he Lower Thread Place the bobbi n into the rotary hook with the holes on the to p. Retai n th e bobbi n with the lef t index f i nge r and pass the t hread through the slot. Bring the t hread aro und to t he front, to the right, at the ang le ill ustrated. Fig. 27

Cl ose the rotary hook cover and draw t he thread into the slot with a slight tug . It then s naps into the tension spring automatically. Fig. 28

Check Open the rotary hook cover an d check by pulling t he thread gently t o t he rear; it sh oul d not come out of the sl ot. If it does repeat th e operation as explain ed above (Fig. 26-27). Pull out about 6 inches of thread. Fig. 29

C hanging t he Bob bi n Presser bar rais ed. Pull the extractor down into th e central hole of the bob bin. When it is rel eased, th e bobbin is au to mati ca lly re moved .

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Threadi ng the Upper T hread Fig. 30

Needle bar and press er bar up. Pass the th read through the two thread guides the upper tens ion slot (h old th e spool bac k when inserting the t hread, giv ing it a sli ght tug upw ards)

t he thread ta ke-up lever from left to righ t the thread gu ides. The needle cl am p is to be threaded exactl y as shown in the d rawing. Fig. 31-31a

Threa d t he needle from fro nt to back. When usin g t he needle threader, you must th erefore inse rt it into t he eye of the needle from t he rear. Pull forward ab out 6 inches of thread .

T hreading T win Need les See extra acce ssories, page 30.

Fig. 32-32 a Pro cee d in the same way but with two threads. Pass on e thread on eith er side of the separati ng disc of the upper tension (fig. 32 a), as well as on either si de of the thread guide on the needl e clamp. 32 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Drawing up the Lower Thread Fig. 33

Hold the upper thread between the left index finger and the edge of the needle plate. Place your hand on t he top of the flywheel, turn it for one full turn-towards you-so that the thread take-up lever is lowered and t h en raised completely to its highest position. The lower thread is then draw n up automatically. Free it by hand completely.

Fig. 34 Make sure that the lo wer thread crosses t he bobbin correctly. Fig. 35 Close the rotary hoo k cov er, pull both threads about 6 inches towards the rear and under t he presser foot.

Place the material beneath the presser foot and lowe r the presser f oot lever. Never run a threaded machine without any material under the presser foot. The t wo t hreads should be held back while sewing the first two or three stitches, every time you start sewing.

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ELN Agraph

Fig. 36 T he EL NAgraph is the automat ic stitc h con trol of t he machine. It con si sts of: 1. Stitch sel ection dial 2. Eject or f or th e ELNAdiscs 3. Needle po siti on wheel 4. Stitch width lever 5. Stitch length knob. The fo ll owing symbols will facilitat e the preparatio n of yo ur machine: ~

Sel ecti on dial

ELNAdi sc

Stitch width lever

Stitch length kn ob

Important C h aracteri stics Fig. 37-38-39 • Th e stitch w i dth lev er has vari o us f u nct ions and can be t urned to on e of the f oll owing position s : 1. fo r a pre-d etermi ned stitch wi dth- fig. 37

2. fo r a varying st itch widt h- fig . 38 And w i th ELNA Super : 3. fo r no-turn button holes-fi g. 39

Su p ermati c

• The Uni versal P ressure of t he Foot T he id eal pres sure has been adj ust ed at th e fact ory-for both sheer and heavy mate rialsso th at n o adj u stme nt s are req uired.

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01·234

Straight Sewing

For th e pre paration of your ELNA , t he f eet to u se an d for the ad j u stment s, see c hart on page 32. Normal Strai gh1 Sewi ng Use the pres ser foot (s ee pag e 4). Place the mate ri al under t he fo ot. Lower the pres ser foot lever. A djustment s Needl e posit ion wh eel at t he cen tered position (red mark). Stitc h width lever at " 0 " . Stitch length kn ob at 1 to 4. Fig. 40

Forward S titc h i ng Turn the stitc h len gth kn ob to t he desired length, bet we en 1 and 4 (black nu mbers) . A dapt th e stitch length to th e kind of work and the t hickness of t he material used, i.e. short stitc hes f or fi ne material, lon ger stitch es for heavy mate rial. T he two threads shoul d be held back while sew ing the first t wo or t hree stitches. Fig. 41-42

Reverse S titc hing a. For a short d istan ce, to fin i sh off or t o make a short seam: Pus h the lever. Wh en it is release d, t he ELNA automatical ly goes back to forward stitching (fi g. 41). b. Prolonged u se : Turn the stitch length kno b between 1-4 re d numbers (fig. 42). In principle, straig ht sewing doe s not req uire oth er adjustments. The t ensi on o f the threads is u niversal-s ee next page. Fig. 43

Removing the Mat erial • Turn the fl ywheel t owards you to raise the thread take-up lever to its h ig hest positi on .

• Lift up the presser f oot lever. • Pullout the material towards the back and cut the thread with the thread cutter on the presser bar. 43

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U ni ve rsal Ten sio n With t he uni versal tensio n, most of th e usual sewing j ob s ca n be do ne w i t hout c hangin g the ten sio n, i.e. : Fig. 44

Upper ten sio n : R ed num ber "5 H, faci ng th e guide mark. Fig. 45

Lower t ension : Red nu mber "1 t ip of th e tensio n leve r.

H ,

faci ng th e

Fo r cert ai n jobs (nylon th reads, hemstitchi ng, speci al se ams, etc.), an adju stment can be mad e by tu rn ing the upper te nsi on regulator kno b. If t he lower ten sio n has to be altered (nylo n work), t urn the graduated sc rew with t he screwdriver. The graduati on marks all ow you to come back easil y to the universal te nsion. Fig. 46 Perf ect t en si on : The t hreads bet ween th e tw o layers of clot h.

are lo cked

Fig. 47

U pp er tens ion t o o stron g : T he threa ds are locked on top of the mat erial. Decreas e t he te nsion by t urni ng t he knob in th e directi on of th e arrow. Fig . 48 Upper t en sio n t o o w eak : The threa ds are locked on th e underside of the material. In crease the tension by tu rn ing t he kn ob in th e direction of t he arrow.

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S ewi ng with A utomati c S titches

T he ELNAg raph an d the ELNAdiscs (both built-in and int erchan geable) enable you to sew a practically un limited variety of automatic stitches. Fig . 49-50

Selectio n D ial a. A t posit ions 1 to 6, as desired, it allows 6 stitches t o be selected and sewn w ith t he built-in ELNAdiscs: • Zigzag stitch (1) • Edgin g stitch (2)

• Blind stitch (3) • Overcasting (4)

• 2 deco rative stitc hes (5, 6) as are ill ustrated oppo sit e, fig. 50. T he use of th ese stitches is expl ai ned from page 17 and onward s. Fig. 49

Adjustments fo r sewin g th e automatic stitches 1 to 6 on th e sel ecti on dial : • Stitch width lever at .. 0 n . • T urn t he selecti on dial to the stitch desired.

® 50

• Needl e posit ion wh eel at the cente r posi tion (red mark). • St itch width lever w it h the mark " . " on t o p on positions 1-4, as desired . • Stitc h l en gt h kno b on po sitio n )4-4, as des ired, Example:

I~ ~

.Fig. 51

. Sel ection D ial b. At po sition I I A ", you can sewall the stitches that are possible with th e inte rch angeable ElNAdiscs (see page 15). 51

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m',iM,tffiM'fl11I¥i'i"t,

Interchangeable ELNAd i scs Fig. 52

The followin g EL N A di scs are s upplied with the ELNA Star de Luxe:

6 single EL N A discs (single profile). The stitc h wh ich will automatically be reproduced is engraved on the ELNAdisc, so th at the use of a special ta ble for selecting the stitches is avoided (see as sortment of ELNAdi scs, pag e 28). Fig. 53-54 and 55-56

Changing the ELNAd i sc

• Stitch length knob and stitch wi d th l eve r at " 0 " (fi g. 53) .

• Remov e th e "di sc " from th e EL NA graph (fi g. 54) . • Insert t he new "d isc" in th e ELNA grap h (fig. 55-56) i t he wh ite circle must be placed over th e dri ving-p in so t hat th e di sc sna ps in. Fig. 57

Visual Indicato r f or automatic patterns. T he circle on the EL NAdisc b rought oppo site the w h ite arro w -by tu rning the flyw heel-indicates the begin ni ng of each aut omatic stitch pattern .

It i s not necessary to make use of t hi s f or ordinary sewin g wo rk but the indicator i s very useful in ord er to determin e t he begin ni ng and "t he end of certain decorat ive stitch pattern s.

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Fig. 58

Adju stm ents for Sewing Automatic Stitches w ith Single ELNAdiscs 1. Selection dial at po sition " A " .

2. Needl e pos ition wheel at the centered position . 3. Stitch width lever on positi on 1-4 as desired,

' Âˇ2 3 4

mark " . " on to p. 4. Stitch length knob on positi on 1-4 as desired. Example:

I~ 1

~-~ ~

Tapered Stitch Width

Fig. 59

Th e wi dth of all t he automatic st itch es may be adjuste d gradually, at wi ll by hand. Pull out and turn the stitch width lever into th e hori zont al position. It can then be moved freel y fro m 1-4 and from 4-1 , with you r thumb. Fig. 60

Thi s free adju stment of t he stitch width is partic ul arly suitable for making fi lled-in patterns and tapered monogram s as well as for doin g fancy em broi dery, particu larl y if based on the zigzag stitch (sel ecti on dial on 1).

, ,,, ,, ,

Centerin g t he Need le

Fig. 61

For certain kinds of sewi ng su ch as bindings , zip fasteners, etc. (straight stitch) an d buttons, buttonholes, etc. (zigzag) , t he stitch can be displaced towa rds the right or left of th e ce nter. Tu rn th e need le posit ion wh eel to the left or to th e right or to any position between left and rig ht. Example: center (red mark), left, right.

a) Strai ght sti tch; b) Zigzag stitch at stitch width" 2 "; c) Zigza g stitch at ' gradually variable st itch wi dt h.

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S ome P ractical Sewing Your instruction book gives you all the necess ary information abo ut how yo ur ELNA works, b ut it is not a sewing course! T he fo llo win g pages serve as a complete guide f or the effi cient use of your EL NA. Other pra cti ca l sugg estion s ca n be given to you by your ELN A deal er, an d by t he special bo oklets you can obtain from him. Find out about these ! Zi g zag S t itc h

2-4

1-4

Use the presser foot. Usefu l for overcastin g, etc.

Sat i n S titc h - Fig. 62

1-4

~ X-y,

The satin stitch is easy to adjust thanks t o the large distance which has been allowed for fi ne adjustme nts between 0 and 1, on th e stitch length kno b. Gen erall y use d f or deco rative pattern s, monograms, etc. A nice raised effect is obtained by c over ing the first row of st itches, on ce or tw ice, using th e same stitc h width .

Tapered Sati n S t itc h - Fig. 63

1-4-1

ÂŽ

X-y,

Turn t he stitch w idt h l ever to its horizontal positi on. The width of t he sti tch es can be ch anged while sewing, to obtain a st it ch w ith a fuller or tapered effect, as desired . It is use d fo r making monog rams and fancy patterns . Fo r monogrammin g, stretch the mate rial on an em broidery hoop.

Overcasting - Fig. 64

2-4

ÂŽ

1,-1

Place th e work as in fi g. 64. Thi s overcasti ng is pa rticu larly durable and wit hstands repeate d washing. Edge-to-Edge 'Sewin g - Fig. 65

3-4

~ X-y,

It is best t o joi n t wo selvedg es.

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1 J

Fig. 66

Patching

X-X

Cover the damaged part with a patch. Sew wi th the serpentine stitc h around t he ed ges of t he patch. Then cut out t he defective portion of t he original, close to the serpenti ne stitchin g. W ith this sim ple method the patching is do ne in one operation and extra thickne ss or fe ll seams are avoided.

Fig. 67

Patching J ersey Materi al

X-Yo

Proceed in exactly the same way, but it i s preferable to make th e patch circu lar an d to sew it on about Yo" (1 ce ntimetre) from the edge. Then cut off th e loose edg es of the patch and the defective part of th e original material. Hemming Jersey Material Only on e f old is made and sewn in the same basic way as the patc h, th at is t o say Yo" (1 centimeter) away fro m t he edge, whi ch i s t hen cut back clo se to the stit ch in g.

Fig. 68

Shell Stitch

1-2

It is mainly sewn on th e bias. Every sixth stitch shou ld be made outside t he mate ri al. Th en sew or put t he bias in place, dependi ng on the kind of work which is bein g don e. Also su ita bl e for sewing on jersey material. Fig. 69

B lind Stitch

~ 3 ~ 1-4 ~ 1-4

• Form the hem: I, (a = Ia w rong si de of fab ric). • Fold it ba ck, underneath th e fa bri c: II. lIa • Place it under the presser f oot as sh own in fig. 69. i---r-- ----'''' • Sew the hem, making sure L-_ _"':"':="-_ -' that only the wide stitche s to the left enter into the fold. When the work is finish ed, unfold it an d press . If you often sew this stitch, th e special blind stitch fo ot with guide is recomm ende d-See ext ra acces sories page 29.

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N o-turn Butto nho l es see pag e 24.

Butto nholes It may be preferable, first, to make a tri al buttonhole on a scrap of material. Butto nhole 3/16" (4 mm) wide

2-4-2-4-0.

~ Yo

Fig. 70

• T urn the needle pos ition wheel to the ext reme left. • Set stitch width lever at " 2 ", with mark ". " on top. Fig. 71

• Sew the first side of the butto nhole. Lower t he needle into the material at th e right si de of this row. Fig. 72

• Rai se the foot and p ivot t he material half a turn around the needle. Lower th e fo ot. Rais e th e needle. Fig. 73

• Set th e stitch width lever at " 4 " . Sew a few stitches f or th e barta ck. Raise the needle. Fig. 74

• Set the stitch width lever at " 2 ", sew the othe r si de of th e buttonh ole, parallel to the first, but 1/1 6" shorter. Rai se th e need le. Fig. 75

• Set the sti tch width lever at" 4 " and sew a f ew stitches f or th e bartack, then fi ni shing the buttonhole. Raise the needle. Fig. 76

• Set the stitch width lever at " 0" and fast en th e threads with a few stitch es, holding th e material back by hand so that it will not be f ed.

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Fig. 77

Reinforced Button hol e Insert a soft embroidery cord under th e left groove of t he fo ot. Proceed in the same mann er as f or ordi nary buttonholes. To finish t he buttonhol e, pull t he protrud in g end s of t he cord an d cut the m off cl ose to th e button hole. Fig. 78

Cutting t he Button hole Proceed as illustrated .

Fig. 79

Repa iring Buttonholes

Sew over t he worn-out sides of t he butto nhole wi th a satin sti tch (or with t he Selection Dial at "2 ", sti tch width " 4 " ). Fig. 80

Bu tto ns

2-4

ÂŽ

Decenter the needle to t he left. Adju st t he stitch widt h so that t he needl e will descen d in t he center of the holes of t he button. Sew ab out 6 to 8 stitches. W hen sewing-o n 4-hole button s, move the button afte r having sewn th e first two hol es and sew t he second pair of hol es in exactly t he same mann er. Raise th e needle, set the stitch width lever at position" 0 " and fasten th e t hread s by sewin g a few st itch es i n th e sam e hole.

Snap butto ns as well as hooks an d eyes, roll ers f or curtai ns etc., are sewn-o n in the sam e way. If you often sew- on butto ns, the help given by the butto n f oot (see ext ra acce ssorie s, page 29) an d button plate wi ll be appreciated.

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Further Practical Sewi ng

Fig. 81-84

N ormal Darning

• A ttac h the darn ing plate and darning fo ot. The darn ing plate a v o i d s t h e use of a drop-feed mechanism a nd makes darn i ng easi er (w it hout a darning hoo p) by cove ri ng up t he op eni ng s in the needl e plate.

• Place the materia l beneath the darni ng f oot and make sure t o lowe r the pre sser foot lever before starting t o darn. • Stretch th e material tightl y and place the fi ngers as close to the darnin g foot as possibl e. • To darn a hol e, sew a screen of closely woven stitches : going fro m ri gh t to left and vice versa.

• Fin ish t he darn by sewin g parallel serpentines f orwa rd and reverse.

To re inf orce a worn-out spot, it is not necessary to sew a sc ree n fi rst.

I II ~

: I

I :

I I

\ 1tJ : I

Fig. 85

Worn -o ut Ed g es

Darn in the usual mann er, but when the edge of the material is reached, turn back quickly to avoi d f orming knot s. Can also be done very neatly by darni ng with automatic stitches (see page 25).

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For parti cularl y fin e darning, we rec o mmen d usi ng t he darni ng plat e with round hole (see extra access ori es, page 29). For d arn ing wi t h a uto mat ic st it c hes see pag e 25.

I I :--", : " I I ( ' I I ", 1 : r \ I I II, I I I I I 1' 1 I

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86 a

86 b

Fig . 86 a

Wool Tricot

~3ÂŽ3

,Q;o,

Use t he button plate. Place the woo l as in fig. 86 a and fasten it with a few stitches . Fig. 86 b

Cover the hole with the wool by sewing from left to right and vice versa, starting f rom the front and going backwards. Fig. 87

Cut the wool an d fasten it off in the usual way.

Fig. 88

Zip Fasteners

(ÂŁ) 1-4

Use th e zipper foot w hich can be moved to the left or righ t of the needle, after the screw has been loosened. This screw must be ti ghten ed again afterwards. T he foot allows you to sew in the zip faste ner without having to turn the work. It is al so suitable for sewing-in cords, and fo r sew in g rig ht at th e edge of a piece of cloth, etc.

88 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

A dditio nal ELNA S uper Feat ures 89

Fig. 89

Interc hangeab le ELNAdiscs supplied the sewing machine: 1 single ELNAdisc (si ng le profi le); 5 double ELNAdiscs (do ubl e profi le) .

with

Fig. 90 Sewing with Double ELNAdis cs

• Selection dial at position" A ". • Needle position wh ee l at the ce ntered positi on (red mark). • Stitch width lever: mark" on top, on position 1-4 as desired. • Stitch length knob at position " A " .

Example:

107

"" "" :I. '\. ,

»7)~71

Fig. 91-92

S titc h Tuner In principle all the stitches are perfectly shaped. However, for certai n very intricate sti tches (tr ue hemstitching, etc.) sewn with the double EL NAdiscs, it may be desirable to lengthen or shorten the pattern to adapt it better to the material and thread used . • To lengthen or shorten the stitch, t urn the knob to "+ " (to th e left) or to " - " (to th e rig ht), respectively. " Combi " Stitch Patterns T hese are obtained when using the built-in an d the double interchan geable ELN Adisc s at the same tim e. Fig. 93 Simply put • t he stitch selection dial on th e cor respondi ng nu mber ; • a d ouble ELNAdisc, as desired, into the ELNAgraph; • needle position wheel at the center position (red mark). • the stitch width lever with the mark " on to p: at positi on 1-4 as desired ; • th e stitch length knob at " A" ;

Example:

141

See page 28 for ex amples of " Com bi " Stitch Patterns.

93 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

N o-turn Buttonholes Au tomatic B uttonholes 3/16" (4 mm) Wide, W i t ho ut Turning the Material Remo ve any interchangea ble ELNAdisc t hat may be in t he ELNAgraph. Preparation Fig. 94

Perfo rm t he fo llowing operati on s in t h e order given : • Set t he sel ection dial at po sition" 1 " , zi gzag stitch; • T urn th e nee dle po sitio n wheel all th e way to th e left; • W ith t he stitch wi dth lever at position " 0", pu ll it out a bit and tu rn it, so the" buttonhole" mark is on top, and then set it at position" 2 " ; • Tu rn the stitch length kn ob to position" A "; • Make sure once more t hat the st itch width lever is properly set at po sition " 2" . Sewi ng the Buttonhole Fig. 95

Sew the first side of the buttonhole. Rais e the needle. Fig. 96

Set the stitch width lever at position" 4 ". Sew a f ew stitches fo r the bartack. Raise the needle. Fig. 97

Set the stitch wi dth leve r at posi tion" 2 " , and sew the second side of the buttonh ole, but make this slight ly shorter th an the first si de. Rai se the need le. Fig. 98

Set the stitch width lever at position "4 " and fi nish the buttonhole by sewi ng a f ew more st itc hes. Raise the nee dle. Fig. 99

Set th e st itch wi dth lever at position " 0 ", and fasten th e threads with a fe w stitches, whil st holdi ng back t he material by hand . Fin e Ad j ustment Fig. 100

Depending on t he material or thread used, th e zigzag stitch ing of th e first row may happen to be too ti ght or t oo loose. This can easily be co rrected with the stitch tuner as follows : If the zigzag stitch of the first row is: - too t ight, t urn to (to the left); - too loose, turn to " - " (to the right).

"+ "

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Practical Stitch es with t he ELN A S uper

101

Fig. 101 and 102

S traight - Stit c h - O v ercasti ng " H ousehold O ve rlock" Stitch.

149

2-4

ÂŽ

with

t he

102

Th e ELNAdi sc 149 makes it possible to sew and to overcast at t he same time. This stitching remains suppl e and ca n be stretched. It is suitabl e f or many dressmaking p urp os es, particularly f or sewin g jersey material, hems, putti ng in elastics, etc. Fig. 103

Elastic T r iple S eam

149

T he seam is supple, elast ic an d not liable to break. It is suitable for tricot, sea ms on t he bias, puttin g- in lin ings (armholes), etc. 103

Fig. 104

. D arn i ng w it h A utomati c Stitch es

151

(ÂŁ)

See asso rtme nt of ELNAdiscs, pag e 28. The forward and backward movements of the material ar e produced autom at ically. Pu ll t he materia l gently to the left. T his darn in g i s chiefly suitable for rei nforci ng t hin parts of material, worn-ou t thickness es and edg es. T he width of the rei nf or ce ment can be d oubled by makin g a sec ond row of work parallel to the fi rst. For stron ger darns , first proceed in on e dire cti on and th en tu rn t he material and sew again at right angl es. 104

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105

Fig. 105

S uperstretc h S titch

152

106

ÂŽA

The Superstretch stitch sews and overcasts in a single operation. It is used for the new st retc h materials, made either of wool, cotton, silk or synthetics. It makes th em hold t hei r s hape too.

Fig. 106 and 107

Edging or Setting a Collar in Jersey Fabri c s

152

4 ÂŽA

The Superstretch stitch is id eal for th is kind of sewing. Sew on the ed ging material or the collar, right side to right side (fig. 106) then turn it out (fig. 107). This stitch is also very practical for sewing bathing suits, necklines, leg openings and for repairing underwear, cuffs and other worn-out edges. 107

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S o me Other Uses of the Interchangeable ELNAdiscs

109

141

®A

2-4

141

101

1-3

110 S u per-Zi gzag or Ric k-Rack-Fig. 109 This is the zigzag stitched 9-fold formin g a rickrack, for trimming apron pockets, dec orating ski rts , etc.

111

Pearl Stitch- Fig. 110 Made without pearl cotton. For small monograms, napkins, etc. Turkish Hemstitch-Fig. 111 Genuine art-embroidery for table sets, trou sseaux.

112 ~A

Scallops-Fig. 112

Edges of organdie flounces, evening dresses etc. Embroideries on children's clothes.

113

Point d e P aris- Fig. 113 Del icate embroidery on bodices, lace applique work, insertions of lace in petticoats. Fringes. Light inlaid work on silk, nylon, muslin .

126

2-4

140

2-4

142

2-4

Embroidery Stitch- Fig. 114 For tablecloths, cushions, couc h covers.

114

V enetian Hem stitch-Fig. 115 . Finishin g off hems,flounces. underclothes, dusters. J umpers.

Embroideri ng

115 D ai si es-Fig. 116 Elegant tiny flowers on boleros, summer dresses, capes. Necklines and armholes. Wadding, dressing gowns, quilted blankets. See assortment of ELNAdi scs page 28. Sewing with Twin Needles

116

See extra accessories, page 30. Place the needle position wheel at the centered position. If ELNAdiscs are used, the stitch wi dth lever should not be set beyond positi on " 3 " . C ombined Work with Twin Needles an d ELNAdiscs 07 and 04-Fig . 117 T ucks can be made with twin needles.

117

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Assortm ent of ELNAdiscs 120 New di scs are co ntinuall y bei ng create d. T hey can be obtained fro m your ELNA deal er.

118 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __

119 ......._ _ __

S el ecti o n of EL NAd i scs f or : S tar de Luxe and S uper

Examples of " C ombi m atic " Stitc h Patterns

Single ELNAdisc s

ELNA Su p er Doubl e EL NAd iscs

Fig. 118

Fig. 119

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105

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107

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139 141

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101

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101 101 104 104 105 107

4 5 2 3 4

107 107

2 3

107 107 107 109 109 110 112 116

5 6 3 4 4 4

120 121 121 124 126 126 126 126 126 126 127 127

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118

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127 129

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130 130 130 131 132 132

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134 134 139 139 140

3 4 4 6 4

140 140 141 141 141 141 141 141 14 3 '143 143 143 146 146 148 149

5 6 1 2 3 4

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Extra Accessories Button Fo ot- 200 (see page 20) For butto ns an d hooks, curtain rin gs, etc.

200

224

202

203

D arning Plat e with rou nd hole-224 (s ee pag e 21 ) For particularly fine darn ing. B utto n Fo ot with Adjustable Guide-202 (see pag e 20) For sewing buttons with a stem on woollen s, collars, heavy materials, etc. Blind Stitch Foo t with G uide- 203 Highly appreciated for making hems on sheer and medium fabrics, linen , curta ins, etc. Qu i lting foot-204 For sewing parallel rows of stitches at eq ual distances, which can be adj usted (quilting), for guiding edges and for sewing-i n co rd s. Multiple C ord Fo ot- 205 As many as five cords can be inserted int o this foot. By coveri ng them with decorative stitches, very attractive designs can be obtaine d. Hemm er Feet, 1/16", 1/8", 206

Yo"

(2, 4, 6 mm)-

204

For hems of vario us widths. Roll er Foot- 207 For variou s typ es of sewing and deco rative work, especiall y on pl astics, the edges of thi ck materials, and fo r sewin g pieces of elast ic or slippery materials of different thicknesses to gether. Felling Foot-20B For sewin g t wo pieces of material to gether wi t h a felled hem.

206 211

Gatheri n g Foot-209 For gathering materials or for sewing-on gathered valances. Tuc k er Fo ot-210 For making tucks. A twin needle is used for this work. Ro lled H em Fo ot-211 For making rolled hems in combi nati on with th e zigzag stitch or other decorative stitches. Mainly used for making fine handkerchiefs , chiffon scarves, etc.

208

Embroide ry Fo ot-223 Metal presser foot for sewing corded stitch patterns, hemstitches and ornamental stitches in quantity. 210 223

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209

212

213

Braiding Foot-212 For sewing braids, soutaches and cords. Eyelet Plates 1/16" and 1/8" (2 and 4 rnm)-Awl - 213 Make it possible to embroider eyelets wit h a diameter of 1/16" and 1/8". The awl is used f or piercing the material to make th e holes.

216

Twin Needles 2 an d 2.7 m m - 216 For sewing tucks , reinf orced sea ms, de corative patterns, etc. N eed le Plate f or Marking w ith Tailor Tac k s and for B astin g and T acking-218 For marking the material with tailor tacks co nsi stent with the pattern. A lso used for making lon g, loose stitches which are easily rem oved after sewing and makes it possible to sew long stitches or apparent seams with embro idery cotton or coars e sewing thread .

218

219

220

221

N eedle P lat e w it h Ro und H ole-219 Very handy fo r prof essionals who main ly do straight sewing (on sheer or soft mat erial, netting , etc.). S p o ol and B o b bin Case- 220 For arranging reels of cotton, bobb in s, th reads, needles, etc., in an orderly way. ELNAdi sc Ca se- 221 Available for 10 discs. Makes it easier for you to select the disc you require. Circular Sewing Device-222 For all kinds of circular patterns, large scallops, various combinations, etc. (Obtai nable with a scale in centimeters or inches).

222

Monogram Attachment-226 For embroidering perfect monograms on sheets , towels, table cloth s, napkins, etc.

0> 226 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

and their Remedies

Minor Disord ers Consult th e instruction book on the pages given below. The

hread Breaks: read does nothavea left t wist 6 ~ not !lJ readed correctly ; t he Âˇ 9, 6 a ~ ~ lp oo r quality The ss of the thread is not suitabl e fo r he ki d of material 6 Th needle s not of the system 705 (or style 15 X 1); it is of poor quality, bent , has not be en inserted co rrectly (the wrong way round or at the wrong height) ; it is not su itable f or t he ki nd of material 6-7 The machi ne needs cleaning 5 The upper tension i s too tight 13 T h e Lower T h read Breaks : The thread has not been wound evenly on the bo bbin or it has not been brough t up c orrectly (it does not pass correctly over 10,7 t he bob bin) 13 Th e lower te nsion i s too t ig ht T h e Mach ine S ki p s S t itches: Th e machin e i s not t hreaded co rrectly 8 t o 10 The needl e is not of the system 705 (o r sty le 15 x 1) ; it is of po or quality, bent ,has not been inserted correctly (th e w ro ng way round or at the wrong heig ht) , it is not suitable f or t he kin d of material 6-7 The th read is t oo t hick for the size of the needl e or it i s not flexible eno ugh 7, 6 The needle plate fo r bastin g and tuckin g has not been re placed by t he normal 5 need le plate The S titc h es are U neven: T he mach in e is not threaded corre ct ly 8 to 10 Th e t hrea d has not been wound even ly on th e bobbi n or t he bob bin has been 7-8 pl ace d upside down T he nee dle is not s uita ble f or t he si ze of th e th read or th e t ype of materi al 6 T he th read i s of poor qualit y or of uneve n 6 th icknes s T he tension devi ces are clo gged or the y have not been set correctly 13 The Mat erial Puckers Up: The upper and/or lower ten sion s are too tig ht 13 - T he stitch i s too lo ng .12 6 - T he t hread is too t hick The Material is Fed Un eve n l y or I nsuffi cie ntly: T he needle pl ate has not been in serte d 5 prop erly T he f eed dog is cl ogged with dirt 5 T he f oot orthe stitch le ngth is not sui tab le 32 fo r t he t ype of materi al The N eed l e Breaks: The materi al has been pu ll ed during sew ing an d th e nee dle be nd s and hits 6-7 against the fo ot, or t he need le pl ate Th e needl e is not of the system 705 (o r sty le 15x1 ) ; it is of poor quality, be nt, has not been in se rted correct ly (the wrong way roun d or atth e wron g fteigh t) ; it is not su itable f or t he kind of mate rial 6-7 h~

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T he needle is poorly centred and strikes against the darning plate T he upper te nsion is t oo tight T he Mac hine Runs S l owly : Th e machi ne has not been oile d f or som e time or EL N A oil has not been used The el ect ronic f oot cont rol switch i s at .. -"; set it to .. T he Mac h i ne is N oisy: Th e rot ary hook has not been oiled or it is clo gged (with remain s of thread or li nt) T h e M oto r R u ns b utthe Mac hin e D o es Not : T ighten t he coupling kn ob R em ai ns of T hread or Lint in t h e Ro t ary Hoo k : Remove the needl e, t he sewing foot, th e bobbin and the nee dle plat e T i ghten the flyw h eel c o uplin g knob fi r ml y , t urn t he fly wheel back and f orth, a nu mber of ti mes, until the t hread t angl e has been cut. Clean out t he â&#x20AC;˘ rem ains of thread . Oi l t he rotary hook and run t he machin e wit hout thread for a f ew sec onds T he ELNAdisc Cannot b e In serted or Remo v ed: Set the st itch wi dth lever and t he stitch length knob at po sitio n" 0" T h e Ordinary Buttonhole Does Not W ork: The selection dial is not at position " 1 " Th e needle is not set at th e let t T he stitch width lever i s not at t he normal zigzag position The Automatic Device for Buttonhol es Does Not Work: The selection dial is not at po sition" 1 " Double ELNAdi sc in th e ELNAgraph Th e needl e i s not set at th e left The stitch width lever i s not set at " button hol e " Set stitch width lever at po sition " 2 " , befor e so tting stitch length knob at po si tion " A " Th e stitch length knob is not at pas. " A" An Interchangeable Singl e D isc Does Not Work: Th o sel ction dial is not at po sitio n " A " Th e stitch width lever is not at th e normal zigzag positio n The stitch length knob i s at positi on " A " A Double Disc Does Not Wor k : The selection dial is not at pos ition " A " The stitch wid t h lever is not at t he normal zigzag po siti on The stitch len gth kno b is not at pos. " A " The Selection Dial Cannot be Turned: The st itc h widt h lever is not at po sit io n " 0" The Stitch Width Lever Does Not Cl ick into Place: The stitch width le ver is not at t he normal zigz ag positi on The Stitch Widt h Lever Cannot be Turned into the B uttonhole Pos ition : The stitch widt h lever is not at position "0"

13 5

4 5 7

15 19 19 19

24 24 24 24 24 24 14

23 23 14

Table of Adjustments

Sewing S trai ght Sew i n g - Normal sewing • dece ntere d sewi ng

~\l~/

r.R .'"'"~....

Needle position For buttons and buttonholes decenter to the left

, I

Feet an d Plates *

®/

presser presser or embroidery darning * darning button pl.* zipper foot

0 0

1-4 1-4

3 0

0 1-4

- No rmal darn ing • on knitwea r

sewing sewing or darning darning darning

- Zip fastener

sewing

sewi ng or darning

sewing darning

1 1 1

buttonhole ----> embroidery 2-4-2-4-0 X presser 2-4 1-4

1 1 4 4 4

embroidery embroidery presser presser presser

Sewing w ith A utomatic Stitc hes - Buttons - Buttonhole, No-turn - Buttonhole, ordinary - Zigzag stitch

~'!~

Thread

sewing or darning

Sati n stitch Tape red satin stitch Overcasting Edge-to-edge sewing Patch ing

as desired

embroidery or special foot

---

1-4 1-4-1 2-4 3-4 4

X-j< X-j<

according to button

Described on pages

Yo-l

X- j< X-j<

" Tensio n • All the ordinary ty pes of work can be sew n atthe Universal · Tension • If necessa ry, increase or decrease th e up per te nsion Needle 120

• For nyl on , gold o r silver th read : uppe r tens ion: 0-3 lower ten sion : 0-1.

- Patching jersey - Shel l stitch - Blind stitch - Darn ing - Su per-zigzag or rickrack - Pearl stitch - Point de Paris - T urkish hemstitch - Venetian hemstitch - Scallops - Sewing with twin needle Sewing Stretch Fabrics (Stretch , jersey, tri cot, etc.) - Mult iple stitch zigzag - " Overlock-ty pe" st raight stitc h overcasting - Superstretch stitch - Triple sea m Sew i ng on Nylo n - Ordi nary se wing - Darni ng .. Combi" Stitc h Pattern s - Decorative stitches

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darni ng embroi dery embroidery darning darning darning embroidery embroidery

presser embroidery presser presser embroidery embroidery emb roi dery embroidery emb roidery embroidery embroidery

4 4 1-4 0 2-4 0 2-4 2-3 2-3 2-4 0-3

presser

X-Yo

pres ser presser embroidery

4 4 0

A A A

25 26 25

pres ser darn ing *

0 0

1-3 0

as desired

embroi de ry

1-4

23, 28

A A A nyl on darnin g nylon

as desired

X-Yo

4 3 3 151 A 141 A A 141 126 A 101 A 140 A A 05 as desired

149 152 149

1-2 1-4 A A A A A A

X-Yo

as dBsired

18 18 18 25 27 27 27 27 27 27 27

A lph abeti c Index Pages

Accessories Adjustm ents-see Table of Adjustments Automat ic darni ng

32 25 7, 8, 10

Bobbin Bobbin Winding Buttonh oles, No-tu rn Button holes, ordinary

24 19

Carrying Case Centering the Needle Cleaning

Disorders

3 5

Electricity Electronic foot control Elnadiscs, Single Elnadiscs, D ouble Elnadiscs , Assortment of Elnadiscs, Use of Elnagraph Extra Accessories

4 4

15, 28 15,28 28 27 11 29, 30 4,6,29,30

Feet Flywheel Foot Control an d Cord

7 4

Lig ht Lubricati on

4 5

Main ten an ce

6, 7

N eedle

17,22,24,25,26

P ractical Sewing R otary Hook

S election Dial Servicing Sewing" Straight Stitch es" " Automatic Stitches " "C ombi-Stit ches " "Practi cal Sewing "

11 , 14 2,31 12 14, 23 to 27

See also Table of Adj ustments page 32 17 t o

Sewing S urface Starting the Mach i ne Stitch Length Stitch Lengt h Knob St itch T uner Stitc h W idth Stitch W idt h Lever T able of Adj ustm ents Tapered Stit ch Width T hread Threading T hread Tensi on s

22, 24-26 3 4

11, 12 11 23 11,24 11 32 16 6, 9

8,9,10 13 11

Universal Pressure of the Foot Unpacking Upper Ten sio n Kn ob

Vi sual Indi cat or

L - 10.71 - Anglai s - U.S.A . - No. 104035-1 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine