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SEI^F^TEACHING

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1

INSTRUCTION BOOI For the Parisian Champion Scientific Tailor System.

re

irf

i i

The most Perfect and Simplest Tailor System ever invented for cutting ail

This System

Garments complete as worn

is

also a per-

by either sex.

n'

fect

The

I

\s

value of this System to Archi-

3nd Draughtsmen

of

all'

cute

kinds,

perfect

fits in

alteration

g

on,

may

Garments, cut

— with

to

all

kinds of Paintings,

is

nd description.

^t

guide for Artists to exe-

such as Statues,

Portraits,

Scenery, Flowers,

etc, etc.

fit

no pinning on

no matter how deformed be.

ATLANTA, GEORGIA.

I*rice of this Book: c5o cts. structions given

by mail and Satisfaction Guaranteed, or

ess

all

for

orders to

America,

PROF. -

O. H.

deLAMQP N

-

Subscription $2.00 per year

in

adv

money

refunded.

opy

*

KROF. 0, H. SKLF-TEACHING

INSTRUCTION BOOI •

.

•

•

•••

•

.•••

• .!.' •

For the Parisian Champion Scientific Tailor System.

(fill

hi

The most Perfect and Simplest Tailor System ever invented for cutting all

i i This System

Garments complete as worn

is

also a per-

by either sex.

fect

The lls

guide for Artists to exe-

value of this System to Archi-

3nd Draughtsmen

of

all'

kinds,

cute

is

\nd description. 'erfect fit3 in

alteration

on,

may

Garments, cut

— with

to

all

kinds of Paintinors,

such as Statues,

Portraits,

Scenery, Flowers,

etc, etc.

I

fit

no pinning on

no matter how deformed be.

\\\

w ATLANT.A, GEORGIA.

f fil

I*rice of this istructions given

ress all

for

Book 30

by mail and—

—

orders to

America,

Satisfaction Guaranteed, or

PROF. -

O. H. -

Subscription $2.00 per year

I

ots.

deLAMQP N in

adv

money

'City,

refunded.

N.

Y.—

—

:

H

COATS, JACKETS AND DARTS. Ladies' Coats, Cloaks or Jackets, put

London Pride

dartless basques fronts,

^ain Under-arm gore, or the Plain Front Iwith one dart in ^

it

instead of Dartless Basque front

The darts

and under-arm gore.

The Ci-Mo Na ^

choice; so

dart is

is

are used as follows

used for any person as a matter

The

the plain dart.

RRiCES

French-bias

OF"

System is and object lessons. with a complete life-size set

60.00, with oral instructions

Price of system

itself,

of drafts, thoroughly explained,

The

above

system and

prices

•

is

include

book,

covering total

Five distinct trades are taught in the above

cost.

darts are used

and a small

waist.

Tailoring,

Ladies'

course, as follows:

Tailoring, Collar and Cuff

Cutting,

Childre

and

Ladie-^

Outside Garment Cutting.

$10.00. instruction

complete,

everything

La Shone

or any piece of goods.

for a person with a very full bust

SYSTEM AND COURSE.

Price of a Complete Course with this j^ 1

is used mostly on striped goods when th wants the appearance of a small waist. This n, the stripes in the piece from the back dart to the under-arm seam slant on a bias towards the front The dart can be used on any person, at the waist.

dart

Thorough Course

in

$160 00 160 00 160 00

Painting

Architect Drafting and Coloring

Gents' Garment Cutting

PUBLIC ATTENTION. I

employ

as representatives,

whether principals

of schools or agents, only persons of

acknowledged

integrity, industry, and require all persons employed by me to be thorough graduates of my system, and to hold their diplomas ready to show to the public their ability as a teacher whenever called upon, hence no disreputable person will be ability,

allowed to represent me. report to

me any

The

public will please

misconduct on the part

of

any

of

my

same will be given prompt Three hundred dollars per year is given away as an advertisement in premiums. Every one whose name is upon my books as a graduate has an equal chance to receive one of these premiums representatives; the

attention.

One thousand

annually.

dollars per year will be

given yearly as premiums to agents, which will be divided between the fifty persons who sell the largest

number

of systems

and appoint the most agents.

NOTICE TO AGENTS. You

will

be required to notify

me

personally of

your appointment as agents or right to teach my '•'^m, giving your full name and address, as well of party appointing you.

It is also required |rnish

me

the

'^u tec teach

at

name and address your

earliesi

of every

convenience.

I

have work for all energetic, intelligent people Don't miss this chance, but send at

everywhere.

once for

full

particulars

principals of schools. all

to

No

representatives

and

canvassing required at

and permanent employment to all persons who Enclose stamp for reply.

are wide awake.

NOTICE TO THE PUBLIC. and imperfect devices. See name of Pr^f. O. H. de lORTON, and send in your name and full address to me as soon as you have learned my system, so I -n place your name upon my books, thus knowing /"e to send you --any improvements which may Jbafter be made, or any other valuable information Any one having one of my systems, and to you. who does not thoroughly understand same, can have a life-size set of drafts made and fully described Sent to them by forwarding their measure to my ofifice, accompanied by fifty cents to cover drafting and jitations

fern bears the

ostap-e

^

dooi'

will be chmiged as the styles change, "'"^hed for ;552.oo

per year or 50 cents

per copy post-paid. for

Post-ofifice

Express.

Postage stamps

will

be taken

Remit all money by than $1.00.

Money Order, Registered Letter, or

anything

less

Parties wishing goods sent C. O. D. will

please remit ten per cent, of

same

to cover express

charges of same.

I®"

P. S.

Good Inducements

are offered to

Dress-makers wishing a more profitable business than dress-making to teach my cistern.

No canvassing. The people come to you.

Write for representatives' terms. It will pay you.

Enclose stamp for reply. Representatives and agents are making from $150.00 to $300.00 per month. Then why do you work for a song ? Wake up and live, as I have work for all good, honest persons

tWI-OR svstk

taste.

tosttittbete^te.

^Vraft a Back^or the First Piece AS SEEN

^^TaoK

IN

FrGURE

jMEMBER. THE TOP OF ALL DRAFTS THIS CUT

IS

IS

Or ^ jjaw^^ie.

1.

ALWAYS AT YOUR LEFT HAND.

ONE-FOURTH OF LIFE-SIZE ORAFT.

Now square the system short end against main line 13 inch dot and draw out a line from main line b}4 inches; also another just like it from the 10)4 inch dot.

(See draft in Figure 1). Now place the V as seen at end of curve 7 and curve 4 on system, at end of I'-a inch line on top, at the neck, and let curve 4 pass over the end of the upper 5>< inch line and draw the shoulder, (as shown in Figure 1).

Now draw from the end of the top ^H inch line to the end of the other t% inch line below with curve 4.

(See Figure 1). Now see curve 5 on your system, and place the very point of curve 5 on the system at the end of lower 5 'a inch line, letting curve 4, which forms part of curve 5, pass down over the IH inch dot on the waist line.

Draw a line from waist line upwards. (See Figure 1). Now dot in on the low 5H inch line from lO'a inch dot, 1 inch.

Now place the corner of square on last dot made and let the square pass down over the half inch dot on the waist.

Now draw the line from the waist line downwards, (as shown in Figure 1). Now draw the right hand end of system a little towards you, till square passes over the 1 ^ inch dot on waist line, and draw a line from waist line downwards as before but be sure the corner of your square is still on the 1 inch dot above.

This completes the Back so draft it again, as practice at

;

—

makes

How

perfect.

TO Draft the Side Form, or Second Piece of a Basque.

AS SEEN

IN

FIGURE

2.

—

First Extend your waist line from the back towards you, say twelve inches in all, from the back then, stand square end of system on the end of said line, curve side of system towards you. Be sure system stands square on last line made.

Now draw a line from waist line or last line drawn upwards or to your left lO'a inches and dot back l}( inches or at 9^ inches. Now from the end of the lO's inch line at top draw out a line towards the back % inch, (as shown in Figure 2). Now from the end of the X inch line to the 9li inch dot draw a line with curve 5, (as in Figure 2).

Now place curve 5 on the back again, as though you was going to re-draft the curve 5 on the back.

Notice exactly where the waist line comes on curve 4 it is at 5^ inches in this case.

Now draw system towards you till the end of curve 5 comes at the end of the ii inch line, at top of lOJ^ inch line let the 5?4 inch on curve-^^" strike the waist line wherever it may but be sure to have the end of curve 5 on the end of the H inch line.

Now draw a line from waist line up to the 'A inch line above along curve 5. Now measure from line just drawn at waist towards you two inches, making a dot there. Now place S. from or arrow, which is on curve 5, at the 9?4 inch dot on the lOH inch line, letting curve 4 pass down over the last dot made on waist line and draw line from waist line up to 9/4 inch dot, (as shown in Figure 2).

Now dot the centre of this piece at the waist and square down six inches below waist line, drawing a line.

Now measure from line just drawn towards the back two inches, making a dot there, and from the dot draw a straight line on a slant up to waist line, (as shown in Figure 2).

Now measure towards you 2K inches from the bottom of the si.\ Now from said dot to the inch line, making a dot there. waist line draw a line with curve by placing arrow at waist line, on which vou see the following words Hip on S. F. Look for this arrow.

This completes the Side Form, if properly done. ;

— Lay your system

on the paper, square end of your right hand, having the square from you and Now let 16 inches on curve side of system nearest to you. your system come IM below the edge of your paper at your First

system

at

hand.

Now dot at 16 inches, also at lb}4 inches, also 13 inches, also at lOJa inches.

Remember, that the distance between the 10>^ inch dot and the 15?^ inch dot must always be evenly divided also remember, that the 10 inch dot must always be 'I'-i inches and the under arm measure above the waist line. (See Figure 1). Now draw a line from the 16 inch dot down to the corner of your Now draw a line from where you square or to your right. stopped at corner towards you three inches and dot on said line at half an inch from corner, (as in Figure 1), also at 1/^ inch from corner or one inch from half inch dot.

Now draw the right hand end of system a little towards you and draft a straight line from the half inch dot made up to the lOH inch dot above. (See Figure 1). Now, Turn your system end for end or square end attention •'Our left hand, still keeping square with the main back curve side towards you.

Now square the corner ' 16 inch dot.

Now see hand 1 on the system little 12 or size of neck 12, make a dot at 'ine from the 12 to the 16 inch dot. '^ the left and draft with curve 5 " 15/^ inch to the end of the '"* neck.

(See Figure 1). left

at

;

--J

!

'

;

;

;

;

V

:

MEASURES AND uui TO LEARN TO DRAFT FRONT OF DRAF\,

THIS MUST BE THE THIRD PIECE OF A BASQUE YOU AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 3.

Position.— Lay your system on the paper, with the top end of your

hand,

left

long square

is

other words, the square end at your

or, in

left

nearest to you, and that the curve side of system

Lay system 1^ inches from edges

of paper nearest to you.

First

see

;

you are told of

1-

2

Second

to.

on system.

dot at three inches of

neck

on system pointing to

1- 1

12.

Now

it

don't

;

you.

is froii,

— Now make

a dot at the top, three inches from corner of square or opposite

system

s'-

be

;

little

12 on

move your system

till

— Dot at 1^ inches from corner of system or in front Fourth— Now Third — Now dot in front of 1- 3.

down from corner draw a

line

down the

front 22 inches (as

the right,

till

or in front of (hand 2 on system) or size

from

shown

the corner of square

first

in

dot made, to the corner, and start

Figure

is at

Now

3).

your system to

slide

Now

dot 4 or fourth dot made.

dot

below corner of square 3 inche' for fifth

GOSE 9yzr

down and

inches down.

down

Next

3).

13^

This brings us

the waist

to

Figure

incx._

inches down,

8

at

inches

9

also

also at 5

dot,

down, also

(See

line.

— Square short

end of system up against main dot and draft

line at 13^ inch

the waist line 20 inches

oulj

move your system

not

have dotted the waist

half inch

on waist

inches, then at

lotn.

ZM

a

dot

then two

inches, then

inches, then at six

hyi

at

line,

do

you

Dot

line,

13^ inch

from the

in

;

till

inches from 13J^ inch dot, then at

from 13M inch

9 inches

The

dot.

distance between the 6 and

9 inch dot

is

always governed by

the waist measure as seen scale

;

in

to find the width at waist,

(see scale).

Now see

at

(Fig- 3.) it is

how

quite important.

and draw out a

trifle

line 9 inches

below

;

in front.

said line

is

the shoulder

line.

(See Figure

3).

6j^ in

all.

line, (see

;

hold tape fast on corner

This gives a true circle and never

5 inch dot, half the width of chest measure, will see in Fig. 3 that

which

between the bust curve and main

line

we

3).

Next, measure with curve

4,

from the

'"

lose

we

^

T*-'

;

first

but

Next, draft

fails.

in this case is 12, so

Next, draft out a line 9 inches from the 6 dot made.

Figure

the bust

Remember,

Attention must be paid to this

higher than the darts.

hold your tape on the very corner of square at top to the 3

it.

Next, square the short end of system up against main line at third dot made

Next, draft out the neck as follows: Twist your tape around your pencil on

around

draft

to

curve and draft

the fullness of the bust must always be a as

look well at Figure 3 and

will US'*

in--'

dot

made

let penc-' o-

a'^

'

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE. shoulder line

4,*^

inches, dot

that the curve sinks

down

and draw the shoulder

it

Now

into the shoulder.

;

waist line wherever

see

the arms eye with arms eye curve, using as a guide the

end of the shoulder and the end of the width of chest let

the curve

come down

to

bottom

arms eye

of

line

line,

dot, to the line, as

;

and draw a

line

upwards

;

line,

make

a dot at 8 inches

IH

inches back, or

then dot

below, as shown in under arm seam in Figure

apply your Front Test Measure by letting of square

project above the

first

1 'i

3.

(See

shown

in

Figure

down a

Now

draft

—extend

the old

Well,

3).

2K

5

and from (See bTgureTi).

inches.

on the hip by placing on the bottom of the

on system.

(See system).

1-,

as seen on curve

Next, make your darts by

standing a straight line up from the centre of each dart,

Next,

squaring up from the waist

of the corner

line.

Then

draft in

your darts

with curve 4 from points shown on system.

dot made, letting 19J^

This completes the drafting of the front.

HOW TO DRAFT THE UNDER-ARM First

Figure

in

Next, from the 9

3.

under arm seam, the hip on front

inches on your system strike the curve line below the old

letting the cur\^e pass

waist line out from the 13>^

and make a dot at fourteen Now stand system square up on waist inches from 13^ dot. line at said 14 inch dot last made and draw up a line from waist line to your left 9'.> inches, dotting back at eight inches on said line just drawn.

Now square system at the top of said 9}i inch line and draw a line from you Ik inch long, (as shown in Figure 4).

Now, from the end of the 1^ inch line just drawn to the 8 inch dot draft with curve 5, curving downward into the goods.

Now measure from the bottom of the 9H inch line on the waist line from you three inches and dot it.

Now place the V that is at the end of curve 7 and curve 4, on the end of the 1% line above. inch dot twenty inches in

19^

line 6 inches,

the 6 inches dot out from you

the bottom of arms eye line and measure down 8 inches

towards the 9 inch dot on waist

may.

bottom of the under arm seam, draw —*«<>''

waist line draw

but

Next, place the end of curve 4 on the end of

not below.

it

dot your draft in the same way, and from that 19J^ inch

draft

down over

Be sure the square

waist line.

all

GORE, the last dot is

made on the

the nearest to you and

square end of system at your left hand. If so, draw a line from waist line up to the end of the IH inch line above.

Now from the two dots on waist line, square a line down 6 inches and dot from you, 1/4 inches from bottom of 6 inch Now do the same on the line on side nearest the back. side nearest the front, as this gives spring on the hips.

(See Figure 4).

The

thing to be done with a Basque

last

is

hips and apply the shoulder balance measure.

to test the

See to

it

before you cut your Basque.

^oroxjo" i*€:it^o:!v^.

When the bottom of arms add the balance over to the top of the under-arm gore (as shown on page 10) in draft of two under-arm gores. Two under-arm gores are needed for all persons when the bottom of arms eye line is over eleven inches.

In any case where you put in two under-arm gores always add the width of the piece from the back dart to the under-arm seam at the waist and the width of the under-arm gore at the waist together when added, then divide the full amount by three and you have the width of the piece from the back dart to the under-arm seam, also the width of both underarm gores at the waist. For an illustration, suppose the piece from the back dart to the under-arm seam is four and eye line is over ten inches,

a half inches and the under-arm gore at the waist

four and a half inches, then

nine inches. Well,

is

also

we add them together we have

we divide 9 by 3,

it-gives us three inches

each of the three pieces at the waist. In this way we get the extra goods at the waist to make two under-arm gores.

Now if we want to put in an extra side form we will have to take two inches from the full amount, whatever it may be, before we divide it, then divide the balanceThe two inches taken away is the two inches we need at the waist, in the extra side form.

Two side forms are only used for very large persons, while two under-arm gores are in

;

I'UJBI^IC

if

if

often used.

Look on page

10 and

you

will see

the draft of

the two under-arm gores, also two side forms.

A.TTEiJVriOIIN:-

Any

j

person or persons wishing to be a General Representative, having the sole controlling right of this Wonderful System can have the same by bringing me the best of recommendations, showing me they are strictly honest with the public, "^^er, industrious, and people of general good address, and depositing with me $1,000.00 for a three years lease, which is - f-he stock which I supply him or her with at the time thev get their lease.

Of course I do not purpose to give any - <-hem, such a chance to make a fortune without I have security.

For a ha!f State right, $500.00 is required.

-'no's you a profit of $15,000 per year.

in a State,

"

*"

<:ee

me

in person or write for terms,

Yours very

truly,

sending reference.

Prok. O. H. de

LAMORTON.

THE WORLD'S WONDERFUL CHAMPION SCIENTIFIC TAILOR SYSTEM.

SCHOIvARS ATnPENnriON ^nv scholar wishmg th-at

V

accompanies the new

me

at Atlarvta,

e free, or to

st

new

I

ivill

Ga.,

to

together with, the

iryifrovements,

Instrtiction Book,

new Fashions, including a

fty to

the

all

lot

in which are all

of other important

S.

send them and

it is to

you cannot help hut 'f

you

xvant

who

things,

a.

year's st^hscription to this

you.r interest I

do,

Drafts and

will send SO

them to you magazine for $1.00

Yours truly,

manufacture.

—Scholars,

New Improved tJi-e

cover the cost to manufacture, I ivll send

PROF. p.

!

when you

an agency, write for

am

see

terms.

looking,

0.

H.

de

and think you

LAMORTON.

will look to mine,

the money I have spent in your

I have work for

The ne.xt nuniher of this magazine will have

many more

—

hehalf.

all honest persons.

drafts in

tt.

CAPES AND OTHER OUTER GARMENTS. 5T— Remember, will s

fit

that the shoulders on any outside

inside of the top of your sleeves.

than those of your basque.

GTH OF Shoulder Line on 5

garment must be one-fourth inch shorter than those on your basque, that the neck must be one size larger on all outside

Also— Remember,

five

all

garments drafted without a curve

front, is eight inches always, excepting for infants,

and a half inches.

\

f

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE.

••*-^^-»—>E^

Xo Find

the Si^e of

Xop and

Around

:>

SCALE

f If

1

[

r If

is

J )

I

-

" "

"

around hand "

10 inches, top piece "

is

" " "

11

"

12 13

" "

is 7

"

"9

"

"

^

1(1

is

Q%

If

the back dart to the uftder-arm seam

waist meas.

is

19 20

in., it

"

would be 2

in

:

"5

7^

"

8

inches, top piece " " " " " "

is

inches and under piece

/

"

5

" " "

"

3^

6

&%

" " "

"

"

inches

4

"5 "3 '<

4%

inches and under piece 2

^^

Scale to Find the ^Vidth at Waist.

From

Arm,

12 inches, top piece will be 8 inches and under piece 4 inches " '• " " " " 13 Syi 4>^ " " " " " 14 9 " " " " " 15 h% "

m

around elbow

"

Akound the Hand

x -c°^^-

and Around Hand.

" "

)

-

fcJottom Piece of Sleevea at Arotind

ElboA?v,

)If around arm

Around Elbow

^

inches

^'''

BH

"

SYSTEM. CHAMPION SCIENTIFIC TAILOR THE WORLD'S WONDERFUL

FRENCH GORED SKIRT

\

/

1

THE ALL ROUND

ARTIST'S GUIDE.

HOW TO DRAFT

A SLEEVE.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Draw a straight

line (as in Figure 5) from where bottom will be, say 22 inches. Remember, the top is at your left hand. Now, from the top of line just drawn, measure down four inches and dot it. Look in your book at your draft it shows you. Now dot down thirteen inches on the same line and draw out a straight line six inches in Now go up length, and dot back at three inches. to the dot above at four inches, and draw out a line Now go eight inches, dotting back at four inches.

Now up. to the top and draft out a line six inches. come down to the bottom and draw out a line eight inches or the same length as line drawn out from

First

top, to

;

dot at four inch

Now

dot.

place (top

of

dart

on system) having square end of system at your right hand and curves nearest to you, at the end of the six inch line drawn out from elbow, letting the curve pass down over the end of eight inch line below and draw the line.

Now turn system end over end, still having curve sides towards you, and place the end of cifrve 4 upon the end of the eight inch line drawn out from as seen

N. S. -h

the 4 inch dot, letting curve pass

_^__^

down

to elbow,

and draw the line. Now place the corner of square on the end of the eight inch line above, that is drawn out from the 4 inch dot and measure down on curve line last drawn 16^ inches and dot it.

Now from las,t dot made, to the bottom of the 22 inch line, draw a straight line. Now measure from 6>* inch dot towards 22 inch dot two inches and dot it, also Now from 13 inch dot at 5 inches and dot it. elbow down to 5 inch dot last made draw a line with curve 4 by placing V that is between curves 4 and 7 on 5 inch dot and letting curve pass over 13 inch dot.

Now turn system end over end and place the end of curve 4 at the top of the 22 inch line, i

1^

letting curve pass

Âť

/

down

elbow and from the 4 inch dot on 8 inch line above stand draw up a straight line 4 inches.

Now place curve 4 on the top of said four-inch line and draft down over 3 inch dot

i^^^raw

in

the

5).

down

as the distance

^ dot.

-n

Now

same manner

then from 3 inch dot over '"e

Now

2

as

"

last did,

from 13 inch dot down line from the end of

draw a

line 1 1

you

inch dot the same dis-

to the i6>^ inch dot.

^h

y

french- Coat,

to 13 inch dot at

the line (see Figure

with curve

jiz

draw out a

Now

at

the

line 6 inches.

on curve 4 measure. On the drafted out from 4 inch dot, ^e end of the 6 inch line.

and draw a

line

from the 8 inch

line

up past the 6

inch line as far as curve will admit; give

curve by hand the balance of the way.

it

a nice

Be sure

tol

have the square nearest to you when drafting saidi Now with square end of system to your left part. and curve side nearest to you, place the point o^ curve 5 on the end of 8 inch line and let it pass u]. to the top of last 4 inch line made, and draw a Hn^ as shown in Figure 5 (see dotted line).

This com pletes a French Sleeve.

Figure 5 shows you hovl to add for Leg-o'- Mutton Sleeve, Full Top or iMaf quis Bell, adding according to fullness required suit taste.

tl

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE.

J>

v«

cnt shows

'his

2ves. ;ct

%

You

will

how

to cut eight styles of

be taught how to do

by

This shows a Plain Bell Skirt, also a Grecian Bell Skirt. The market and is all the rage in Paris.

This cut shows you how to cut two Under-Arm Gores, also two Side Forms for very large ladies. This principle took the medals and first premium for stout people at the Cutters' Convention held in Paris in 1893.

This cut shows how B.

Can be used with a

pointed.

makes one

of the

most

:omfortable suits ever worn.

blazer

A indicates

French Basque.

Seamby iin-

to cut the

less Princess Royal, indicated

This cut shows a Skirt and )art of a Bodice combined, riie upper part of the Bodice hould be of a contrast goods.

Phis

it

latter is the latest thing in the

lessons.

f«-

'

C'-

gives you a se'" the draft for a Se. easily made wh"this princip'

unless vparts •

ore*

y

GUIDE. THE ALL ROUND ARTISTS

BACK VIEW.

FRONT VIEW. FRONT VIEW.

'

wearer.

SEAMLESS PRINCESS ROYALS.

^^^.^^, ^^^_^^^^^^ ^^^

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE

,

.

.

Should be woru with a

ENGLISH WALKING COSTUME

PARISIAN CAPE.

WATTEAU PLtlATED COAT

WALKING JACKET. English, quite Englisji, you know. ^ ,nd is becomir \^^thstanding i It's

This Parisian Novelty opens in the back, and is hand embroidered back, front and

belt.

.

Very dark gray velvet with tan silk front and White puff sh"irt front.

gloves to suit.

/^-

1

\-f'

ICNGLISH

WALKTXO COAT.

Dark green goods make up .1

-V

rietly,

matches

telt,

hat matches coat.

AFTERNOON AND EVENING WAIST.

PARISIA.V F.VNCY

and are used

irreat deal, hiilk face IIk-. rrvers, Ike a qetit's coat, silk blmise of tan C"lor with belt is worn lie-

Made of cream velvet.

of ga.'".Ug[ht green crepe de chine. The plastron ir^ overlaid by black lace cuffs and girdle of black

CATCIITX(. ^PiPRNOO. Skiit of

.1

vc!j light heliotrn-

gold covered with very to

match the

dress.

oi^-

''

THE^ALL ROUND ARTISTS GUIDE.

Afternoon Dress.

Very

stylish.

Made of white

mull,

trimmed with black or cream lace,

Very

black preferre<l.

Okeoian Princess.

Skirt one color, upp

slyli?>li.

bodice of anotlier.

Very Stylish House Gown.

Made

No

1

One

style of a

Seamless Princess plam?y how

Dress. I do not show you or Seamto make a Seamless Princess kilow how less Princess Royal till you Then you will to use my Tailor system. jÂŁi(0W all.

y

of colors to suit complexion.

Fan to match.

Parisian Butterfly Bodice.

Made

of blue cloth, light blue velvet. nail heads down front.

Large

ROUND'ARTIsrS GUIDE. THE ALL

PARISIAN PRINCESS.

yoke and b-.ck velvet . ^th b...k in tan, with Made of novelty wool

cuffs.

EVENING COAT' PARISIAN DARTLESS Made

of

any heavy .""^^^l,^ clothing. Cotor

suit your other

f

rsewedonandisheavilybraided.

DRESS.'

and a chamois Shirred bodice leather corselet.

IHtAl.L KUUINU AKH:3l

i>

UUlUfc.

This cut presents to you a coat

known as the Elizabethian Coat, and is made of goods to suit the

Evening Dress.

A

wearer.

very handsome costume, colors to suit wearer ; it

made up

in

is choice.

damask, with old gold velvet bodice, with lace at neck and front.

Cream

silk

A

Theatre Costume.

Nile green crepe du chine. Green velvet with ribbon and fringe trimming.

striking costxxme is the abo\ of lavender colored goods, front of bodice rose pink overlaid .

.

made girdle,

Evening Hqcse Gown.

with black silk lace.

â&#x20AC;˘

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S

16

GUIDE.

Le Mabqdis.

The Wedding Bell.

Worn in London

is the rage in Paris.

This sleeve

De Bub Bell.

A summer sleeve.

extensively.

GRECIAN walking; COSTUME. Making a very handsome suit made of gray, trimmed with black velvet, or combining ;

colors to suit the complexion.

A

Parisian Leader, made of light trimmed with black velvet and

gray,

gold covering.

Seamless Princess, No. for a driving suit.;

3,

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE.

PARISIAN FAVORITE. Made

of black silk mull, with gray

trimmings.

A

very catchy costume

this coat,

made

is

made up by

of striped vicuna

and

velvet to matc^.

FRENCH CAPE OR WRAP. This cut shows how one cape may be used to make capes or wraps.

Combination Afternoon Dre^.

ENGLISH COMPORT WAIST.

WALKING DRESS. PARISIAN FAKCY

PARIS BELL, ^ Made

HANDSOME FRENCH All

tlie style

COAT.

now, and will be

for 189S.

silk with Wackjn oft black .^g

old gol

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S GUIDE.

GRECIAN FULL DRESS Made

of goods to suit the comp}«kion.

Child's Sailor Shit.

Plaited white

slfii-t

Navy blue

and

waist.

front.

THE ALL ROUND ARTIST'S

GUIDE.

Kvenins Party Dress, bodice and train cut in one.

Another seamless [Princess ch

fancy

rately

coat

attachment,

and without a seam.

Wine-color Bengaline Figure in black, while the yoke is cream-i'olor, covered with black lace.

made

fcikirt,

with

wide side

They are principally worn .mless waists, but can be worn '

waist.

One of the charms of Paris is the above Plain Princess Dress, made of brown goods, with a gray seamless coat of satin marvellieux trimmed with chiffon ruching match the suit.

to

TfTR

ALL ROL .^' ARxhrS GUIDE

/

t^

r^

THE WORLD'S''WONDF.RFUL CHAMFl^N SCIENTIFIC TAILOR SYSTE w

HOW TO TAKE efore

commencing

sure to place Neck^

1.

measure a person,

to

it

first tie

collar,

standing behind the party being

Width of Chest— Measure

across the chest, from

m's eye to arm's eye (having the tape straight across the iest\ three inches below the prominent neck bones.

Down Front

3.

to Bottom of Arms, eye

line

— Place

tape around the person being measured, close up under it in a true circle around the person, (be

le

e arms, having

it is not too high in front), then measure from the rominent neck bones in the front, down to tape. The istance from collar bone to tape is the distance on your raft from the neck down to the bottom of arm's eye line,

ire

I

the distance between the 4th and 6th dot on main line.

Top of Darts

4.

— Measure

from front neck bones

a point immediately over fullest point of the bust

—just

the turn.

ist

Bottom of Bust

5.

— Measure

the neck in front, straight

from the neck bones front to the bottom

down the

the fullness of bust (placing a pin there).

Down Front

6.

down

;

14.

Shoulder Balance Measure

—Measure

from

the pin at waist-cord in the back, over point of shoulder, to Be sure that tape passes the pin at waist-cord in front. over the shoulder, at the point where the length of shoulder will be.

—

Around the Bottom of Bust Test Measure (This an extra measure, only used upon seamless garments, which takes out all fullness at bottom of bust). Measure the distance from the pin at waist, in front, up to the pin at bottom of bust then measure from pin at waist, in back, is

;

one-half inch higher than distance between pins mentioned front (placing a pin there).

— Measure

—

8.

Hip Measure Measure around the hip, as far ;low the waist as person wants basque to oome, or over le fullness of the hips for a long basque.

Front Test Measure

— Measure

3ne at the back of the neck,

down the

from the

collar

front to pin at

aist cord, in front, at waist.

Then

place tape around

Length of Back

— See

that

Measurement of Sleeves.

close

up

waist-coard

is

—

Length of Arm Have person raise arm, bending arm towards bust, Then measure from pin, at the right hand end of back over point of elbow to the prominent 1.

bone

wrist

2.

— Notice what

3.

it is

Around the Arm — Measure around

inches below shoulder, having

and quite loose

4.

elbow in

at wrist joint.

Length to Elbow

while taking

length of arm.

tape,

Under-Arm Measure — Measure from

nderneath arm, straight down to waist-coard at waist.

11.

is the distance you came across the under-arm gore and side-form the balance is length of bottom of arm's eye line measure.

inches

placed in the back, holding the tape tight, and let the lady take as long a breath as she can, letting the tape loosen as the person expands, yet having it drawn tight at the largest

around the waist at ird, as tight as person can comfortably bear it, and ibtract one inch from measure taken. The inch subtracted lows for having measured over clothing on party being 5ing measured.

10.

said four

expansion.

Waist Measure

9.

;

the front, to the cord at

is

aist cord.

7.

Then

or in other words, to the corset steels in front.

;

subtract four inches from what tape indicates

person, just at the pin at bottom of bust, and the last pin

around smallest part of the and place a pin immediately in center, of front, at

waist (be sure that cord

aist)

end of tape on said pin, passing the tape under the arm, around to the center of the front, over the fullness of the

in

— Measure

immediately above the hip.

from the

to Waist Tine

;ck bones in front straight le

of waist,

bust

easured.

2.

a cord moderately tight around the waist, being

around the smallest portion

— Measure around the neck, at top of

oderately loose, and

MEASURE.

all

the aim four

four fingers under the

at that.

Around the Elbow — Place

the tape around the

at joint, with the person's arm, straight, after

which

allow person to bend arm, until her hand touches her chin,

oper position, then

taking the measure without fingers under the tape, directly

aist-cord,

over the point of elbow.

measure straight down back, to from the prominent bone in back of neck

ilacing a pin there).

Width

of

Back

5.

— Measure

from the pin in the ;ntre of back, at waist, up the back two and a half inches ore than your under-arm measure, placing a pin there, hen measure across the back from arm's eye to arm's eye, iving your tape straight across back at pin let the arson's arms fall loosely at side while taking this measure, 12.

;

lace a pin at the right

hand end

of width of back,

from

hich point you start to take next measure.

om

13.

Bottom of Arm's Eye Line Measure

— Measure

the pin at the right hand of width of back, having the

Around the Hand — Measure around

over the largest part of same, moderately

the hand,

tight.

—

6.

Length of Inside Seam Measure from close up underneath the arm down to wrist joint, having the arm by side.

Measurement of

Sk/rts.

Front Measure is taken from the waist-cord in front down towards the floor, within two inches of same.

Back Skirt Meausre is taken from waist-cord in the back down to floor, less one inch.

k

=^^ MEASURE OF 1 1

111 i4iHiiimiiiiJiiiiiii{iiiiiiiiiiiniiiii)iiiiiiiiiiii iiiiii»iiiiiiiiif iniiiMiiiiii

M iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiif

Tnr.

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St.

iiiiii iiiiiii^^

MEASURE OF nil 1 1 1 in 1 1 run i rii 1 1 1 m i!iiiii mil 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1

ini ri ii ii

in in

1 1

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nr

1 1 iii

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71V.

7U.

St.

St.

k i-

/

'rout to

Bottom of

—Eye Line

4 Top of Darts 5 Bottom of Bust 6 Dtnvn Front to l^^

of Rust rorU to

K

XlX'l

Line

7 Waist Measure

xsure

8 Hip 9

Measure

irni Measure

/O

of Bach Measure yf

Arms— Eye Line

Front Test Measure

Under

Ann

13 Bottom of

.

Balance

'r

Measure

Measure

11 Length of Bach Measxtre 12 Width of Bach

Bach

of

1-

Waist Line

{ensure

'est

of

Arms — Eye Line

Darts

:

Nech

2 Width of Chest 3 Down Front to Bottoyn

of Chest

14-

Arms— Eye Line.

Shoulder Balance

Iround Bottom of Test Measure

Ejc.

ure Front Skirt

.

.

Ejytra Measure Front Skirt

ure Bach Shirt

.

.

.

Meas.

Around Bottom

Extra Measure Back Skirt.

MEASURES.

Length

to

Aroxnid, the

Arm

Elboxv

Around

EJhoiv

.

Sruni

1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1J I

tJir

Around the Hand

'.Hand

ill

.

EJhou)

Arm

1 1 1 1

.

Length of Arm

TIbow

si d I-

.

SLEEVE MEASURES.

^rin

71

of

Bust Test Aleasure

L/'ugi h of J7isidc Scant

.... ijiii 11

III I

iiiijii III 1

1 1 i i

III I nil

i I

ii 1 1 III iiii|ii:n:iii,iii

11 !

I i

iri

1 1

u

1 1 1 1 1

ii iniiiiiiiiiiii

1 1 1 1

ii

1 1 1 1 1

ii

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

(in in 1

1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ii 1 1

j

mum mi

i i

M

MEASURE OF WHiiuiBj nniii I iiiiiiiiiiii

1

14 III

MiiinitiiiMii

imHf iinmiuiiiii 11

7W..

/

1 1 1

ri I

St.

Neck

2 W^idtK of Chest 3 Down Vront to Bottom

of

Arms—Eye Line

4 Top of Darts 5 Dottom Oj ^ust © Doiun. Front to I'iift 'Wiiist

*

Line

7 Waist Measurt:

8 Hip Measure 9 Front Test Measure /O Under Arm Measure

.

.

.

.

ft Leng'th of Back Measure

12 Width of Back

—Eye Line

13 Bottom of Arms

14 Shoulder Balance

Ex. Meas. Around Bottom of Bx^st Test

Measure

Extra Measure Front Skirt

Extra Aleasure

Back

Skirt.

SLEEVE MEASURES. Leng-th of

Arm

Lcni!;th to

Elbow

Artuiiid

1

lie

Ann

ArouTid the Elbow Arotiiid- the

Hand Seam

heni>'th of Inside

....

.

.

.

.

7U.

§fc.

i^ iMmiiiwimiiiiiiiwMiiin

"'i«"'i'imi""»'

MEASURE OF

iiiiiiiriiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiinii

»iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii'»iMiiiiiiii!niiiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

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iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiviiiiiiiiiiriiiiiirr

71V.

TU..

St.

\

dth of Chest

vn Front

rms—Eye >

to

Bottom of

Line

of Darts

torn of

Bust

Front to +1^1 Taist Line 'jn

ist >

,

Measure

Measure

nt Test Measure ier

Arm Measure

gth of Bach Measure.

Ith of Bach toin of

Anns— Eye Line.

ulder Balance IS.

Around Bottom, of

ust Test Measxtre ....

Measure Front Skirt, pleasure

VE of to

Bach Skirt

MEASURES.

Arm Mh-^.'

tJie

.

Arm

the Elboxv

Hand of Inside Seam the

,

.

.

/

1

. .

MEASURE OF wwiiiiarjiwiiii

III 1 1

II

1

II III

Ml liiitfiiii tiMmrnimtmii I

1 1

ii

ru i iii i mi i ii

mm iiiiiiiiimM

71V.

1 1

n

1 1

mi 1 111141 iiuii imi im in i

1

n mi 1 1

iit mini iiiiiiiiii in 1 1 111 11 iiiiiriiiiMiiiiii 1

iitiiiiii

1

11

1

rt

THr.

7U.

St.

TW.

St.

fEASUKSa.

Nech

7

/

2 Width of Chest 3 Dott'ii Front to Bottom

2 Width of Chest 3 Down Front to Bottom Arms-— Eye Line

of

Arms— Eye Line

4 Top

5 ©

1-

Wdtst lAne

7

T;ir« ist

8 9

Ili-p

Measure

7 Waist Measure

8 Hip Measure 9 Front Test Measure

Measure

Uiidi'r

Arm Mrnsure

/O

Leng'th of Back Measure.

//

//

J2 Width of Back J3

Tiottojn of

12

—Eye

Artns

Mcas.

K.\-tra

Measure

Length of Back Measure of Back

Width

14 Shoulder Balance

.

.

Ejc.

Back Skirt.

Meas.

Around Bottom

Extra Measure Front Skirt Extra Measure Back Skirt.

.

SLEEVE MEASURES. Arm

.'•tig-th to

Flhoiv

Length

to

Arm

Around

the

Around

the Elhoiv

\

round the

. 1

round the Elhoxv

^-I

roi-cnd

Tum<^th i I

III 1

1 1

1

Ii

.

.

.

Length of Arm

Rand of Insidr Seam

Elhow

Arm

Around the Hand

the

uiui 1 1 1 II I lij 11 uii 1 III 1 1 1 1 uiMii wiiinwuiuiiwiHtvii 1 u I

.

SLEEVE MEASURES.

Lcng'th of

,

of

Bust Test Measure

.

Measure Front Skirt.

K.vtra Measure

Arm

—Eye Line

Around Bottom of

Bust Test MeasiA,re

Under

13 Bottom of Arms

Line.

14 Shoulder Balance lC:>c.

^

W^aist Line

Front Test Measure

to

of

4 Top of Darts 5 Bottom of Bust e Down Front to X^tt

of Darts

Boi tout of Bust Dote n. Front to l\\X

Neck

Length of Inside Scain )ii III I

iMiiviiiiiiiiiiiiMiu iiiiiiii^

1 1

111

uiimi n

1 1 1 1 1

111

u 11

1 1

11 11 ti

1

11

iiiiiu 1 111 1 11 111 1 1 1 it j

um um

MEASURE OF

<i

HiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiM«iiiiiaiiii»«ii<iM»«iiii«*ii'''''ii''"''ii''''!"''«i'i«^

St.

Otr..

Kech

/

Neck

/

2 Width of Chest 3 Doivn Front to Bottom

Width of Chest Doiun Front

to

Bottom of

Top of Darts

Bottom of Bust Waist

to

WW

^

'3 '4

Ex.

W^aist Measure

7

Hip Measure

8 Hip Measure 9 Front Test Measure

Arm Measure

Under

/O

Length of Bach Measure

2 Width

/ /

of Back

—Eye Line

Measure

Length of Back Measi^re

Width

12

Arm

of Back.

,

Arms—Eye Line.

13 Bottom of

Shoulder Balance

14 Shoulder Balance

.

.

....

Meas. Around Bottom

of

Measure

Extra Measure Front Skirt.

Extra Measure Back Skirt.

.

Ex. Meas. Around Bottom, of Bust Test Measure

Extra Measure Front Skirt.

Extra Measure Back Skirt.

.

.

.

SLEEVE MEASURES.

SLEEVE MEASURES.

Length of

Arm

Length of Arm

Length

Elhow

Lervgth

to

Around the

Arm

Around

the

Around the

EVhou)

Around

the Elhoiv

Around the Hand

Around

the

Length of Inside Seam

Length (f

i

.

Bottom, of Arms

Bust Test

to

iiii!iiiiiiiiitiiiiiiii«iiiiiiinii!iri

1

1

^

Waist Line

Lirve

Front Test Measure

//

4 Top of Darts 5 Bottom of Bust © Down Front to XXW

Waist Measure

Under

of

Arms— Eye Line

Anns— Eye Line

Down Front

St.

TW.

liMiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiwiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^

Elbow

Arm

Hand Inside Seam

.

.

,.

.

.

MEASURE OF itiifrrituti HWiiii iiii 1

1 1 1 1 1

in ii

i

ii

imn

mm

i

m ii iMiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiti iiirm iimi iimi

7U.

St.

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Miiiiuiiiiii

iiiiij

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1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

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ri

i

iii

i

i«iii

iwi i imi

St

7W.

HEASUBEa.

/

Nech

/

2 Width, of Chest 3 Down Front to Bottom

of

Arms— Eye Line

4 Top of Darts 5 Bottom of Bust 6 Down Front to

4 Top 1-

:f ij::}::}:

7 Waist Measure

G 5

Under

Arm Measure

.

.

.

/O

.

Length of Bach Measure

11

12 Width of Bach

—Eye Line

Ejc.

of

Ejvtra Measure Front Shirt

Fxtra Measure Bach Shirt

.

.

.

.

.

SLEEVE MEASURES. to

Around

the

Elhow

.

.

Arm

.

Hand

.

.

.

Length of Inside Seam I

Ml Ml lit I ilMi'lil

I

lilt

I lllllli I

. .

Leyxgth of Bach Measure

Ex. Meas. Around Bottom of Bust Test Measure ....

Extra Measure Front Shirt.

Extra Measure Bach

lUilll lililllllliUiUllllliilllWIIUIIIillUIIIUl^

Shirt.

.

SLEEVE MEASURES. Length of Arm Length to Elhow

Around the

.

Around the Elhoxv ArouTid the

Measure.

—Eye Line

Bust Test Measure

Length

Arm

14 Shoulder Balance

Around Bottom

Length of Arm.

Under

...

13 Bottom of Arms

Shoulder Balance Meas.

Dotvn Front to X^X Waist Line

12 Width of Bach

13 Bottoin of Arms 14-

of Darts

Bottom of Bust

7 Waist Measure 8 Hip Measure Q Front Test Measure

8 Hip Measure 9 Front Test Measure / /

of

Arms— Eye Line

\Yaist Line

10

Nech

2 Width of Chest 3 Down Front to Bottom

Aroxmd

Arm

the Elhotv

Around the Hand

,

Length of Inside Seam 1 1 1 1 i I III

lllill l!| I |||||i|,|« 1 1 1 |.i

utj J

m MEASURE OF

^

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71V.

/r.

TW.

St.

[)•..

Nech

Doxvri

Neck

/

Width

2 Width if Chest 3 Down Front to Bottom

of Chest

Front

Bottom of

to

4 Top of Darts 5 Bottorn of Bust e Down Front to \X%X

Top of Darts

Bottom of Bust to

^

iift:]:

7 Waist Measj ire 8 Hip Measure 9 Front Test Measure

Measure

Hip Measure Front Test Measure

Under

^

Waist Line

Waist Line ViTaist

of

Arms— Eye Line

Anns— Eye Line

Down Front

§fc.

Arm Measure

/O

Length of Back Measure 12 Width of Back

Length of Bach Measure.

Width of Back Bottorn of Arms

—Eye

//

13 Bottom of

Line.

Shoulder Balance

Under Arrn Measure

•

Arms— Eye Line

74 Shoulder Balance

Around Bottom of Bust Test Measure ....

Ex. Meas. Around Bottom of Bust Test Measure

K:tra

Measure Front Skirt.

Extra Measure Front Skirt.

Krtra

Measure Back Skirt

Extra Measure Back Skirt.

c.

Meas.

.

.

SLEEVE MEASURES. '.ngth

of

Arm.

SLEEVE MEASURES. Length of Arm

.

Elhow

.

Length

to

.

Around

the

round the Elhow

Arozmd

the

Hand '.ngth of Inside Seam

Around- the Hand,

•ngth to Elhow

round the

Arm

.

round the

IIUHIllllMWIIIIIIIII!llll1lll|iMlllllllllllillllllligilllllllUllllllllllllllllllllllil1lllll|iliH

Arm Elhow

Length of Inside Sea in,

.

.

.

.

m MEASURE OF g»!gii!iii «iwiiiiiii[i!iiriiiiiiiiiiiiii»iiiiiiiiiiii^

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'^]^!^^!}

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2 Width of Chest 3 Down Front to Bottom Arms— Eye Line

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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FAMOUS S£AML€5S andX>AHn£5S

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Jnventoj^.

The Famous Seamless, Dartless and Adjustable ^

Skirt, for Ladies.

ONE SIZE FITS EVERYBODY. Inventor, Designer and Proprietor,

ATLANTA, GEORGIA.