Reportofpresentf00wils by David Mannock

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TT 590 .W77 icopv 1

mw^ OF THE PRESENT

FASHIONS, WITH THE

SQUARE RULES

VARIATIONS TO FIT THE HUMAN SHAPE.

BY JAMES

WILSON,

TEACHER OF THE ART

<>F

CUTTING.

January, 1827.

0/>ti/^^Âť-

U\<^P--

a^.sx- -

''^-^' ^

Southern District or New-York,

ss.

Be it remembered, that on the 11th day of January, A. D. 1827, in the 51st year oi' the mdependence of the United States of America, James G. VVilson, of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit: "Report of the Present Fashions, with the Square Rules and Variations to fii the Human Shape. By James G. VVilson, Teacher of the Art --f Cutting. ' In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United iÂťtaite^ entitled "An Act for the encouragement of Leammg, by securing ihe c<jf.u;s of Maps, Charts, and Hooks, to the authors and proprietors of such Cnpus, during the time therein mentioned." And also an Act, entitled "An \ct, supplenu ntary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encourai:einent of Leal-Dins', by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such cooies, during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereul ro the aris of designuii^, engraving, and etching historical and other priiit-/*' g

JAMES

DILL,

Clerk of the Southern District of 2^ ewYorri

L^LJ^

')(/)()

PREFACE.

This Report of the present Fashions fully

respect-

presented to the trade by the subscriber, with

the beUef that

will

It consists

respects.

prove useful to them in

many

of twelve lithographic prints,

similar to those published by

E. Minister, of London;

a rule sheet, on which are laid

down

various dia-

grams, intended to explain and simplify the science of cutting, accompanied by appropriate rules, and

concludes with some modifications and improve-

ments of the reports as communicated by E. MinisIt is believed that if the rule which is herein ter. suggested for procuring the position and attitude in all

cases

founded in truth, the whole science of cut-

ting correctly pass,

and

may

reduced within a very narrow com-

be understood in a short time.

The

Reports of Minister being only in the possession of a few, and unaccompanied with drafts or rules, I

was induced

to believe that I should perform

an ac-

by improving, republishing, and combining with them a concise treatise on the art of cutting, which I have now the honor of present-

ceptable

service

ing to the trade. J.

? *

New-York, January, 1827.

-'C::^

WILSON. â&#x20AC;˘

work sist

will

begs leave to inform the trade, that this

be published semi-annually, and will con-

of a printed Report

and executed

;

twelve elegantly designed

figures, superbly coloured

;

a Rule sheet

containing several diagrams, representing cutting,

riations in

Rules.

The

all

the va-

and explained by appropriate

next Report will

make

its

appearance

immediately after the arrival of the London fashions.

The work

will

be forwarded to subscribers without

may

also be had at the Book Store of A. T. Goodrich, 124 Broadway, New- York. SubscripSintion price $10 per annum, payable in advance.

delay.

gle

copy $6

copy.

;

coloured, 2 dollars advance on each

RULES,

The

great desideratum in cutting a garment,

establish sition

erto

&c.

some general

of a

man in

all

been adopted

cases

for

is to

rule for ascertaining the posi-

no method having

;

hith-

meeting the variations which

constantly occur, except the arbitrary judgment of the cutter, frequently incorrect

and

in his operations.

In consequence of

happens that a coat

will bind

to error,

liable

from having no other guide but memory

to aid

this, it

him

often

one under the arm,

wrinkle on the shoulders, swing off at the sides, hang

back too much behind, and spects.

the following

a man.

misfit in

let

;

thick, with slides

the standard be divided into inches

and half inches, place

behind the man, touching

the most prominent parts of the hip let

the

man

of his head will be

stand easy, and :

other re^

recommend

a standard* of seven feet in length,

and about one and a half inches it

method of ascertaining the position of

Make

attached to

many

obviate these difficulties,

If he

one fourth of

and shoulder

tlie slide settle

to the top

68 inches high, then 17 inches his

length, which

would be a

correct length of the waist of the coat in

all

cases

17 inches and one eighth of the breast would be the length of the skirt of the coat

then measure the

dis-

* Let there be attached to it two cross-pieces, at the points where it meets the hio and shoulder, liaving each a small screw to fasten them at ajiy given place and let the bottom of the standard be supported by proper feet. ;

6 tance from the standard to the back of the

above the collar then Rule

hereinafter laid down, will apply.

first

he measures set

;

If he measures 2 1-2 inches at each })lace,

the back.

will

apply.

2 1-2 inches in the hollow of the back and

1 1-2 at

the neck,

then

third

tlie

and

Rule

his shoulders set well back,

will give the

proper instructions

and in this ratio for other variations. as follows: 1st, his length

round the breast

—

man measures 34

inches round the breast,

measure; and

fourths,

and sixtyfourths

—3d,

the two last

half of 34 would

then 17 inches or one led the breast

;

arm

coat.

RULE If the

Measure a man

2d, length of

—4th round the waist

you measure under the

halves,

inches at the neck, and the shoulders

five

somewhat forward, the second Rule

If he

neck

likewise measure to the hollow of

this

cal-

divided

into

eiijhths,

sixteenths, thirtyseconds

then

again divided into thirds,

it is

and twentyfourths. The back of rejn'esented on Rule Sheet by letter G, is coat the you will commence at the head of it cutting in and right hand end, as the wool runs the or at cloth, the

sixths, twelfths,

to the left

when placed on

the counter before you.

Lay on your square at the hip one eighth from the edge: then draw your line from 1 to 3 lay on your meas:

ure and dot

from

one third

to 3,

draw your one o-iiiJT tli

as i'ollows

line

from

to 2,

one eighth

then lay on your square and

;

from 3

— from 6

to 5,

to 7,

one third

— from 5

one eighth, givmii

to 4,

a spring,

as represented on the diaa^ram

from 5

;

the side

seam is swept

to 7 bj tlie length of the waist.

OF THE FORE PART. (See dia^'am marked

mence

on Rule Sheet.) Comfrom where

at the opposite side of the cloth

you cut the back, then from 2

12tii

— then the square

the straight lines

1 to 2,

one third, lacking one 32d

to 3,

one 24th

drawn across to 8,

—from

to 4,

one

applied at 1,2, 3 and 4, and

—from 5

— from

one sixth

— from 3

to 6,

as represented, from

— from 6 to 7, — from to 21, on«

one third

one half

one fl^th— from 9 to ID, one | | fourth from 20 to 12, one sixth from 12 to 13. one i^i ^ 32d— from 13 to 16 one (ith— from 15 to 14, one c -

third— from 21

1(1,

—

— from

12 to 17, one ei<rhrh

hair

— from

swept with the half of the breast

swept by the length of the breast

and

13,

and

this will give

by adding 1-2 inch.

the coat set

from thence

to the

Sweep from 10

lajjeile

Slope off the upper part of the

by small dots,

much smoother

Draw your

part of the hip.

seam

you the length of the

skirt in front as represented

make

14 to 13

the side

rounding part of

itself; the

swept from 3 and

;

line

bottom of the

give the exact spring.

One

this will

over the front

from 21 skirt,

to 12,

and

this will

fourth from the ia})elle

seam, will give the front edge of the skirt; one third

and one 24th gives the width of the bottom of the skirt. To get the size of the coat at the waist, lay on your measure from off

at the side

one eighth, and

seam

to the front,

this will give tlie

taking

exact size round-

71-

:;2

^ o '

•

*t>PER SIDE SLEEVE.

From

(See diagram marked H.)

—from from 4 9 to

— from 3

— from

one half

to 6,

to 5,

one third and one 12th

13,

eighth

one fourth

to 3^

—from

10 to

1*2,

1 to 2,

one 16th

32d

to 4, one

one third

— from 10

—from

to 11,

one

one e^«Ji and one 24th

from 5 sweeps the top of the sleeve and gives the point under part of the sleeve

in front for the

dotted line

raised to give

;

the upper

fullness over the

shoulder, as the sleeves are cut very large and

Under 7,

From 2

sleeve.

one 24th

—

full.

one eighth— from 6

to 8,

from 7 and 8 gives one half of the scye.

RULE

II.

In cutting the back of a coat for a round shouldered

man who measures

5 inches in at the neck, proceed

From

as follows: (See diagram G.) third

64th

and one 64th

—from

the side in

Rule

4 to

seam a first.

—from 3

to 3,

straighter than

man

one

one third and one

one eighth and one 64th.

little

If a

to 5,

laid

Cut

down

be very round on the shoul-

ders so that he will measure 6 or 8 inches in at the

neck, and his shoulders

set well

forward, then you

cut the back rounding from figure one

little

below the scye-gorge.

short and his shoulders set very

from 5 to

down

If his neck

much

one eighth and one 24th

the

back

very

forward, then

—

this will shor-

ten the shoulder seam, and reduce the width of the shoulders.

FORE PART.

The

(See diagram F.)

distance being 5 inches

as in Rule second, then from 3 to 4, one 12th and one

64th 18,

— from 5

one third and one 32d

to 6,

one sixth and one 32d

32d.

— from

—from 2

21 to 10 add one

If the distance be 6 or 8 inches as above, then

from 2 to

one sixth and one 24th, and drop the

18,

scye in the same proportion.

In hollowing out the

more than is laid down in the first Rule. If he measure 3 1-2 inches at the back, then add from 12 to 13, one 32d more than neck, jou will take out a

prescribed by Rule

little

If a

first.

man

as large round

the waist as round the breast, and measures in at the back, then

from 20

to 12,

will bring the point of the side

one 3d, lacking one 32d

one

to 12,

from 12

one eighth

according to Rule

then from to 5,

one

1 to 3,

man

and

;

in other respects

21,

;

proceed

III.

very straight, his neck of

one third, lacking one 64th

this

his shoulders are set well back,

one 64th.

third, lacking

back, hollow

1 to

first.

If a

an ordinary length,

—from

inch

;

taking the distance in from

RULE (Figure G.)

seam

would give the proper spring

sixth,

to 16,

;

one eighth

little

When

— from 3

you cut the

between the shoulders.

FORE PART. (See Figure F.)

one 24th

—from 3

From 2 to 4,

to 3,

one

third, lacking

one 12th, lacking one 64th

from 3

one 32d — from 5 one —from 2

to 6,

to 5,

ing one 32d

to 18,

32d

— from 10

19,

one eighth and one 24th

and one 32d

to 11,

—from

lacking one 32d. length of the waist.

third, lack-

one sixth and one 32d

—from

one

— from 9

21, one third

1 to

one third and one eighth,

to 10,

Sweep

the side

seam with the

In cutting the sleeve, take

more than usual from

little

one

sixth, lacking,

the shoulder

seam

off

In other respects pro-

the centre of the under part.

down

ceed according to the directions laid

Rule

first.

VEST— ('See

Diagram P.)

Measure from the neck

joint behind

where the

shoulders and neck are connected, across the shoulders

down

then round the measure round the breast

front for the length,

breast and waist.

If the

be 32 inches, then 16 inches will be the breast mea-

This

sure.

coat measure.

divided in the

Commence

same manner as the

as follows

Draw your

on the front edge of the cloth, from 1 to 2 one from 2 to 4 from 2 to 3 one fourth twelfth then draw from 4 to 5 one eighth one half

line

—

;

the line from 5 to 3, from 3 to 6 one fourth, from 3 to 7

one

one eighth, from 3 to 12 one fourth, from 7 to 8 half, from 11 to 9 one third, from 2 to 10 one

third,

from 10 to 11 one 24th; then lay on your

measure

down

at 7, taking off

one eighth

then proceed

;

to the length of the vest in front

from 3

to 13

gives the length of the back, adding half an inch.

Sweep

2 from the lower point

in front,

and

this

you tJie length of the

will give

distance

man

the bottom to the front line

and

;

17 and the

oveithe hips. If a

and corpulent, bring out

large

seam

side

necessary to slope

the point at

bring up the neck to 10,

in that proportion for other variations.

BACK OF A VEST

From from 3

2 one eighth

1 to

to 4

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from

1 to

3 one third

one eighth.

SHORT NECKED VEST

From 2

Diagram L.)

(See

10,

(See Figure U.)

one fourth

;

2 from 3

sweeps the neck.

TROWS r.RS. Measure as follows: From the hip bone

to the

crease of the thigh, from thence to the ankle bone;

allow 3 inches at the top above the hip bone and 2 at the

sure

bottom

;

this

gives the length.

round the waist, the

knee measure

thigh,

will give the wi<lth

low 3 and a half inches

at the

round the thigh, and the same the fulness:

lei

the under

beyond the upper part ease

rouud

part,

and

and prevent the

in front.

j^art

8haj>e tlu.ni

the Rule-sheet. (See

of the bottom

Diagram

the

;

al-

knee, and 3 inches in front at the

top for

project hali an inch

this will

side

Then mea-

and knee

seam a^'fer

I.)

give the fore

fnuii

swinging

the pattern on

FROCK COAT AND SURTOUTS. For a Frock

coat,

waist under the coat

measure round the breast and

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; measure

for a surtout over the

same

coat: cut the back and body the

as dress coats

except the neck, which should be cut rather shorter; the neck of a double breasted surtout coat to be swept the

same as a military

half to

length.

its

coat, adding one inch

(See Fig. O.)

hang of a frock or

and a

get the proper

surtout coat, proceed as follows

(See Fig. M.)

From

figure 1 go in

one 12th from 5 to 6 one third and

the front edge of the coat to

one eighth; then draw your

on the front edge

line

of the cloth, where you take out your skirt length of the skirt

the skirt, so that the point at figure the body, and figure fect line

;

take the

then lay on your fore part above

;

on the

and 2 on

are in a per-

skirt,

then touch at figure 8 on the body as far

;

cut

the line from

straight 1, 2,

from 2

and 4 on the

sented by the diagram

;

skirt, as

from

then

draw

repre-

one half

to 2,

the distance across the top of the skirt: from 4 to 3,

one eighth, lacking one 32d

from 3

to 4, the skirt will

over the hips.

;

hang

by making in

this raise

an elegant drapery

get the spring,

you

will

let

the

point at 4 on the body, and the point at 3 on the skirt touch, and the pf)int at 2 on the body touch the line

between

and 2 on the

skirt: then draw your line and so down the length of the skirt: from 7 sweeps the bottom of tlie skirt. Jn cutting the skirt, lay y( ur moaspre on as in cutting a dress 1

from 6 to

coat, (Fig F,)

from 12

to 16,

one eighth

then lay

on your square parallel with the 7, 'See Figure

JVl,)

and

if it

above the square, or below

add

fr<»m or

above or

line

it,

1 to

then you will take off

much

to the skirt in front as

below the square

falls

drawn from

brings the point in front

raises

this will give the

;

proper spring in front.

MILITARY COAT— (See Diagram The back

N.)

cut like that of a dress coat, except

the lower part, which

on tne

cut as represented

figure.

THE FORE PART

From

smnall circle

2 one 32d ; from 3

(Figure O.)

this

sweeps the neck

4 down

one third, sweeps the point

at the

shoulder seam

tlie

in front at 5.

GREAT COkT—(Figure X.) THE BACK.

From

2 one sixth

3 to 4 one 24th

one eighth

32d

;

from 6

;

3 one third

6 one third ;

to 8, or carry

If a

you it

man

will

bring

large in

(See Figure

from

to 7

one

8 gives the round the

the dotted line

out, as the case

THE FORE PART

;

from 6 to 5

;

from 6

8 one third; from 9

spring of the coat.

Draw

from to

from 4 to 9 one sixth

waist, or very small,

from 7

;

from 4

may

require.

W.)

a line on the front edge of the cloth, and the

top line as represented Irom 2 to

From

1 to

oije half;

from 4

from 2

3 one third

5 one eighth

ing one 32d

from 6

;

from 3

to 4

one 24th

from 5 to G one third, lack-

to 7

one 12th

;

from 6 to 16 one

third; from 5 to 10 orie sixth; from 10 to 1} one

32d

from 12 to 13 one sixth; from 12 to 14 one

;

eighth; from

one fourth; from 6

to 15

and one 24th

third

;

from 8 to 9 one 24th.

man

slim round the waist, bring in the dotted line at 16,

and

carry

if large,

out farther.

TO CUT THE CAPE

Lay

( Stc

one eighth

neck of coat fit

Diagram Y.)

back of the coat from the edge of the

in the

cloth one 12th from 3 to 4

8 one

If a

;

one r2th from 5 to 4

4 sweeps the bottom of capes at

This rule

6 neck of cape.

sure

in ail cases.

AND PELISSES.

LADIES' HABITS

In measuring a lady you will

back of the neck,

at the joint

shoulder are connected

then

;

commence

the

where the neck and

down

the back the

length of the waist; from thence to the floor; then,

from the place of beginning, measure across the shoulders to the centre of the breast to the

bottom of the breast

;

from thence

;

from thence

to the length

of the body of the habit below the breast

down to the floor The waist measure ;

coat,

divided the

and the garment

breast measure.

;

then

then round the waist and breast.

laid out

same by

as that of the

instead of the

In cutting the back, (See Diagram to

2 one eighth

from

;

one half lacking one 24th from 6

;

from 4

5 one eighth

;

7 one eighth.

FORE PART

From

C) from

3 one half; from 3 to 4

1 to

(Figure

B.)

2 one sixth and one 32d

;

from

1 to

one half; from 3 to 4 one fourth lacking one 32d

from 4

sleeve to 7

one eighth

to 5

8 one fourth at

;

6 one eighth

16 do.

;

to 10

;

from

1 to

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

;

from

from 2

9 the waist measure

this

;

from

26 do. point sweeps the neck

from 16 to 26 do. one 32d

;

8 you place the seam of the

5 sweeps the bottom of the scye

one eighth

from 9

from 5

;

from

;

from 9 to 11 one fourth; from 11 to 12 one I2th;

from 10 to 13 one fourth

;

from 15

to 14

one 24th

;

from 16

to 17

one third; from 17 to 18 one 24th;

from 19

to 17

one 24th

23, 21. and 24,

the measure that

from 17

swept from

are

12-

20 one

sixth.

by the length of

taken at the centre and bottom

of the breast, and the length of the body by taking off the

width of the back.

ed by figure

ding habit

The

sleeve

represent-

AD: A F and A E, the skirts of a riA G, the collar. This rule is for a lady

measuring 8 inches more round the breast than the waist.

If the measure round the breast be greater

or less than the above, then you take out less

between IS and

breast measure breast,

which

19, as the case

may

more or

be.

The

used to get the distance across the

at 14

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;therefore

from 15 to 14

will vary according to the size of the breast.

REPORT.

DRESS COATS. Colours agreeable to

and broad

and

up,

marked

come

;

seam

to the

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;the

they are

collar pattern

The

on the Sheet of Rules.

ry long; the shape

Velvet Collars, short

taste.

the fall-down to lay quite flat on the stand-

;

lapelles ve-

represented on Sheet of Rules

made very

long,

and

to turn nearly

Six buttons at front, and six holes in

to the bottom.

buttons, fine wove to match, except blue, which are plain gilt. The skirts Ions: and broad, and to hang full at bottom side edges in the pleats

lapelles

;

cross flaps rather broad, as represented by B. Sleeves

cut

upwards, and small from elbow to wrist, and

full

gathered on the shoulders, so as to raise without wadding.

Depth of

short opening

the

cuff*,

cuff",

is left

and one on the

cuff*

cut

The

breast

off*

inches

J^-4

above the sleeve

when made up a ;

cuff*; ;

one button on

the corner of the

diagonally as represented by figure is

not cut very

put to the forepart

;

full

;

stout canvass to be

the side seams are cut

much on

the curve, so as to give a narrow appearance at the

small of the waist, and to spring a

little

at the

bottom

of the waist; the lapelles are cut to correspond in length with that of the waist behind

;

the hip buttons

18 are placed a distance of 1-4 of the breast measure

apart

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;raw edges. WAISTCOATS.

Made with step collars by J

represented on Rule Sheet

K bound by narrow match seven buttons in front made veand come to a point in front, and slope over

galloon to ry long,

;

Covered buttons generally used of the

the hips.

same

;

collar represented by

;

cloth.

PANTALOONS. Cut

fit

tight

from the knee to the ancle, and

full

in the thigh, with 3 buttons at bottom; the fall-down is

cut diagonally

;

width at top

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 inches

from the

seam, three and three fourth inches at bottom

row

welt, as repiesented

on Figure

;

nar-

TROUSERS. Cut

to reach the ancle

generally

full;

bone

pleated in front

;

large in the thigh

cut as represented by

Rule Sheet.

FROCK COATS. Most fashionable blue

;

made

7 and 8 inch

;

colours, green

and

olive, or light

single breasted, as represented in figures

collar,

black velvet, with small step of 1-2

the fall-down quite

flat to

the stand-up.

Col-

19 lar pattern represented

by C.

Length of neck, 1-2

inch less than that of dress coats

;

breast cut to

and moderately easy

close to the neck,

the breast, with seven buttons in front.

and

cuffs in all respects like those

fit

at the fidl at

The

sleeves

of dress coats;

width of the back, and length of back-scye, and of the waist, are also

same

as dress coats

an elegant drapery over the hips.

fla|»s in

skirts,

;

inches longer than dress coats, and very

full,

two

falhng

They have

side

the skirts behind, about 8 inches in length,

and with a point

at bottom, as

four buttons behind

no cross flaps

—two

at top

shewn

skirts lined with silk to

;

in figure

and two

7; bottom ;

match.

DOUBLE BREASTED SURTOUT COATS. Colour,

steel

mixed,

and drab, of various

olive,

shades, with cross flaps and pockets under

;

cut as rep-

resented on Fig. 6 and 10; collars shorter than the frock coats, but in

all

collar represented

ter P,

and

flap

other respects similar to them letter

;

lapelle for do. by let-

by Q.

SINGLE BREASTED SURTOUTS. As represented by

figure 5,

without flaps, with 7

buttons in front, very short neck, collar very broad,

and

go close

sented by letter as dress coats.

to the neck.

D—-made in

Collar pattern repreother respects the

same

GREAT COATS. Cut as represented by

W and X.

Three capes,

stand-up collar, 7 buttons in front, strap behind under the cape, with side flaps.

RIDING DRESS. Coats.

Colours, olive, brown, steel mixed, green,

and olive; made as represented

down

button

front of plain gilt or steel skirts

;

collar

They

in figure 11.

the front to the waist

;

same

7 buttons in as dress coat

3 inches shorter than those of dress coats

width of skirts at bottom, one third and one sixth of breast

;

cross flaps, with pockets under.

Width of

back, length of neck, and of the back-scye, the same as dress coats.

SHOOTING FROCKS. Made at waist

of drab Barragan.

They have

cross flaps

about 9 inches long and 3 1-2 inches in depth,

large pockets under, and, at the breast, cross flaps

1-4 inches deep, cut diagonally, with pockets un-

der

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the collar represented by

letter

C. The

skirts

two inches longer than those of the Riding Coat edges to meet in front

8 buttons

inches diameter. waist,

;

made

very

full in

the skirts

in front, usually of pearl, of about

Width of back,

;

1-2

length of neck,

and back scye, the same as Dress Coat

resented on figure 12.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;rep-

SHOOTING BREECHES. They

made

are

very

the thigh, aud tight at

full in

the knee, with four buttons plain convex

They

strings.

the gaiters

are

worn rather

coming high up

gilt

leather

;

short at the knees,

they are of light drab,

;

white or buff Manchester cord

;

long gaiters

—these

are universally of tan-leather.

YOUNG GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. Jackets plain

gilt

—

;

single breasted

round

cuff,

to a point in front

three rows of buttons,

;

hollowed at bottom, to come

and behind

buttons placed about

;

one inch apart.

Trowsers all

the

—

quite plain about the waist, anel loose

way down

See figure

to the bottom.

CHILDREN'S DRESS. Spanish dresses are much worn as a they are

made

as follows

from the frock or

—the body

skirt, to

first

similar to a skeleton

fit

jacket, the sleeves cut shapely to the arm, top, short

tom of

back scye, narrow

waist, the waist

dress

cut separate

at top of

full

on the

back and bot-

made moderately

long, the

width of the back, across the shoulders, half an inch

more than one third of the breast the length of back scye and width at top and bottom of the back, one ;

twelfth of the bigness of breast shoulders, the neck close up

;

it is

cut wide on the

to the gorge, with a

lit-

tle stand-up collar cut hollowed at the sewing-on

23 part, to admit of the top collar standing" off

neck; the collar

wMch

collar,

silk net ball

completely hid by the

made

on the shoulders

to fall

The

buttons.

from

jacket

tlie

or shirt

frill

3 rows

;

cut longer

than the length of Avaist to admit of the trousers but-

toning round the jacket, about three inches lower

than where the length of waist shapes to

the trou-

;

sers rather easy from the top of thiffh to the bottom,

up the fall-down seam,

plain at top; they are closed

except the necessary opening at the crutch

seam

is left

open from the top about

admit of the

to give sufficient ease to

the trousers

;

the frock or skirt part

separate from the jacket, and

;

the seat

six inches

down,

letting

down of

made

entirely

merely a straight

piece of cloth, cut round to the top, to give sufficient

on the hips and nouild the bottom of

fulness is

made

sufficiently

wide to admit of

its

skirt

or gathered behind, within the space at the

from side-seam

side-seam

meet

at front at the waist,

tom

the top of the skirt

;

about

colour belt

1-2 inch wide,

seamed

waist

Uttle at the bot-

to the belt,

which

to buckle at front.

The

shade

sometimes stitched

the edges of the skirt

and open a

and

blue, of a light

;

being fulled

;

the top edge of the

to the

body of the jacket.

within 2 inches of the front edge*

SKELETON DRESSES. Jackets plain front.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;made

gilt balls;

with three rows of buttons, small

narrow stand-up collar to run round at

Trousers to button on the jacket

mostly worn, blue, of light shade.

;

colour

m LADIES' PELISSES. The

make of Pelisses is as shown oil The most fashionable colours are the Ma* roon and Green. They are made as follows: the waist very IonÂŤ^ the front of the bo<lj is made to fas* fashionable

fi^iiire 4.

;

ten with hooks and eyes; the collar

marked

The

sleeves are

as pattern

made

very large up-

wards, having' a great degree of fulness

;

gathered on

and rather close from the elbow to the The width of back across the shoulders, is

the shoulders;

hand.

one third of the breast.

half an inch m(jre than

Length of the back scye back and

at the waist,

2 inches.

cut considerably on the

seams

The

straight.

the top of the foot,

1-2 inch

side seams are and the shoulder

curve,

skirts are cut

and very

width at top of

;

The

full

;

hmg,

gathered

reach to at

the

These

waist behind, within the space of 4 inches.

Pelisses are quite plain, having neither buttons nor

Fur

braid of any description.

The

adopted.

of Chmchdli.

down

the front

furs

now

are

The

depth of the lur on the cuff

3 inches, and on the front edges of he flounce

skirt

inciies

six inches deep.

Silk Pelisses are cloth.

universally

worn on the collar, cuff, edges of the skirts, and a flounce

They

round the bottom. is

adopted are Grey Squirrel, back

now

Some of them

the point of the

are

bosom

much or more worn than made full at ihe liont, irom

to the waisi,

and conunue

the skirts, sHUilar to the LmUics' tilouse

down The es. about

five inches.

D; ess-

made to wrap (;ver as Cloth Pelisses. same Colours

left .-kirt ol

others

LADIES' CLOAKS. These Cloaks are

jjenerally

worn

made

they are

long, to within five inches of the ground; the back

breadth

cut the

width of the cloth, top and

full

bottom; the front breadth at the neck in width across the top, the width at

;

they have arm-holes

are cut at about

left in

cut 9 inches

bottom 25 inch-

the side seam, which

inches distance from the top of

cloak, the length of arm-hole

about 10 inches;

they have a welt at the arm-hole about

1-2 inch in

seamed on the hind breadth, and These cloaks the ends tacked on the front breadth. are frequently trimmed round the edges and arm-

breadth, which

holes with Chinchili or grey squirrel back fur, about

4 inches wide, though some are made plain have nearly

tom

;

all

the neck

they

gathered in to the length required

for the collar; the

small silk girdle

;

a broad flounce of fur round the bot-

;

collar

the cloak

fastend at front, with a

either lined with white

same to match. The These cloaks are made colours Crimson or Maroon. to draw with a sliding string, about 10 mches from the centre of the back they are generally made with silk serge or sarcenet, or the

;

two capes.