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TEXT BOOK ....OF...
THE GREAT MODERN SYSTEM COR r
#*«?
DESIGNING AND CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
:
AS TAUGHT BY ^W*'
A. D.
RUDE & SON AT...
New
York Cutting School
NEW YORK
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y
CITY.
Cleveland Cutting School
CLEVELAND, OHIO.
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60640 OCT 13 1900 9e^< VbAQirwS£on*o
cor
15
igon
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Lfi CT
NEW YORK,
US'.
V.
CLEVELAND,
O.
II
-
1^
HE DEMAND fact
in
Ladies'
Garments
Tailor-made
on the increase and the time
constantly
come,
for
many women
now
is
it
as
men
to
make
here in
many
trades
soon
will
where
measure for
leave their
is
as
a suit
of clothes.
The one thing needful a
proper system
that
have
the
cutting
of
three
"beauty" and these
which
cardinal
virtues,
in
and cutters using
it
is
the hundreds of cutters
Men's garments
To Garments
those
this
who
there will
and putting
With
it
namely
ladies'
"grace"
"tit,"
easily learned
thoroughly
and
System
will
practi-
woman
a coat, vest or trousers for a
who
man.
use our system for cutting
prove an open book "
in
very truth."
have not used our system for Cutting Men's be a positive pleasure in adopting this System
into practical use
full faith in
the future of Ladies' Tailoring as the
of largely increasing the merchant tailoring trade, and
the System contained in this book will be
we
garments
can produce a coat, waist or skirt for a
with the same ease that they can cut
To
produce
is
book form.
The system here presented cal
will
tailoring a success
produced by our " Great Modern System
are
which we here present
ladies'
a large
means
means
a belief that to that end,
aie,
Yours
fraternally,
A.
D.
RUDE & SON.
THE ENTIRE CONTENTS
OF IS
THIS
VOLUMN
PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT.
GENERAL REMARKS. AY
particular
attention
how
designated and just All divisions
except
which
J,
th^
To
is
line extends.
on square are measured from joint of square,
DRAW
DRAFT
word
each
far
line
measured from extreme end of long arm.
is
The word
name by which each
to the
is
used to designate
all
straight lines,
and
for curved ones.
obtain good results imitate curves on draft as closely as
possible.
Whenever divisions
it
ACROSS, All
the
means
word
DOWN
Depth
the
of
is
connection with the
Scye,
and
whenever the word
the Bust Measure.
garments are drafted for stitched edge.
used deduct
%
in.
%.
When
binding
is
from edge of garment.
Collars are drafted for felled edge:
used add
in
used
when
turned-in
seam
is
inch.
For better comparison collars are shown together on separate pages. In places
desired, is
where amounts can be varied
we would
advise to use
to suit style of
amount marked on
garment
pattern until draft
thoroughly understood.
You
will find
the brief remarks
it
a great help
above.
to
pay particular
attention
to
s> Jacket
Waist
or
MEASURE, s
First place tape under right
back on top of square, then under left arm and mark Place square under arm so it is just in same manner. nor too loose, and see that the tight easy, not too is
Take Bust easy measure standing
arm holding both
ends above shoulder very tight, then mark on back along and inside of tape, then under left arm and mark in same manner, then measure across back from mark to mark, take one half of this amount for l in. for seams. width of back and add / 2 Place square under right arm and mark on
square
BUST MEASURE.
6.
Coat Measure.
WAIST MEASURE.
7.
of
Measure around so as tape back and very tight.
8.
marks and mark centre of back, then find exact length of natural waist and mark in most hollow part of back, then mark on vest collar where you wish seam of coat collar to come.
TO GET
Place straight edge
it
firmly
with
left
DEPTH OF
SCYE.
3.
in
TO GET SUPPRESSION OF
V/AIST.
Measure down back from
mark 4.
mark on
collar
to
at natural waist.
measure
less.
WAIST.
edge
to
most hollow
Vest Measure. Measure length of vest from centre of back on vest collar to length desired in front, and holding tape at length of vest at front, measure back, up to the opening. These measures are applied on vest the same as they are taken. For all other vest measures use waist measures.
ARTIFICIAL WAIST.
waist.
Measure down from mark on collar to Measure down from mark on collar
to
mark
length of coat.
Measure around waist very
tight,
around hip
rather easy-
Take length
LENGTH OF COAT. Measure down back from mark on
Skirt Measure.
artificial
at largest part of hip.
5.
straight
will
to waist
part of back.
measure book.
NATURAL
back hold-
hand, then take square in
customer is a regular form she two inches, if stooping more, and if erect
Measure from mark on waist collar, down back to mark even with bottom of armscye, and always call this measure one inch more, and so write it
hip line,
hand and measure from straight edge
Measure from 2.
against customer's
collar, if
Measure length of sleeve by placing square under arm and measure down the arm as far as customer may desire.
easy.
INCLINE.
with end of straight edge just at
ing
SLEEVE.
hollow part
fit
Measure around largest part of hip All measures are taken over waist.
right 1.
will
HIP MEASURE.
perfectly perpendicular.
Place square across back even with these two
in rear of
customer.
floor
collar to
front
sides
of
and
skirt from
back
and
seam of band add
one
inch
to
to
measure.
For rainy day
skirt
measure length as
desired.
Application of Depth of Scye, OOQOOOOOOO
A
Place end of tape at
amount
36 on square and measure
down
of the depth of scye, on scale of E. •
'A
inches depth
of
scye gives
24 25
a
ii
7i
n 8
"J
84 8! 9 '•'!
9| lu
10.1 ii
i(
ii
ii
10f ii
i.
on scale of E.
the
FLY FRONT JACKET. PLATE
I.
FLY FRONT JACKET. ^^r Measure* Width of Back. Length of Sleeve.
<'.'_.
18
8}4 Depth
36 24
42
of Scye.
To Natural Waist. To Seat and Full Length.
15
20
FOUNDATION LINES Draw baseline
amount
construction line
—2
1
to
—
I
natural waist
of suppression 2
(
in. to
•">
2
Incline.
2
Suppression.
in. strong and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from I I through 18 to Bust line and from 16 to Bust Line. of Bust Measure (IS in. Measure forward from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on 4/
measure down on in.) and mark in
2,
1
Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.
•">.
i-
Draw line
1
—3
line
from
through
1
angles to line
at right
and square across
">
1
—
5.
)
hip line.
Place square on draft so as stars on square will
— — — —
meet those on draft and mark down A32 B32 D32 E32 by depth of scye measure and F3fi G36 H."><> 13(5 by bust measure. E is the Bust Line. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is
—
M
From wherever
measure back
of Bust Measure to Natural Waist Line marked T.
ma}' meet.
it
J>
Measure forward from T,
2 in.
the same
amount
back from 5 to 7, then square down to X X to 21 is in. at right angles with Waist Line. Draf: curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 9 to 8 is 2i in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw Hue from arm as width
of
1
1
also the length of jacket in this case
From B mark up one
and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 5, and in.
1
square
lines
all
down
at
—
right angles to line
1
—
.">,
From 8
scye through 9 through 8 to 22.
to
24
is
Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 25 From 24 to 26 is 2£ in. From 23 to 27 is 2.1 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is + in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to of in. and as 21, 31 to 32. You will find this gives 21 1 30 to 33. in. from add in. from 1 hip measure is A in. from 25 to 36 and in. from 22 28 to 34. to 35. This gives a total of 6 in. which makes pattern Draft curve from 29 to 33, from of Hip Measure. and 8 to 35. 24 to 36 26 to 34, £-
24
in.
to
'
1
noting how
far each line extends.
BACK.
1
Measure across width of back (<>.l in.) from line one in. above B and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from to 7) 2 in. and square down to 31. (•">
The line from C to is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup•">
A
Draft curved line from
F;
to
from
F
to 6;
6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31.
Mark down :
+ in.
forward from
from 10 to der from F
SHOULDER. from G and F .")2
I to
10
(for 2 in.
Measure back from 6 and draft curve to
F.
1
to
ARM SCYE AND Mark (for 2 in.
from
E
| in.
width of shoul-
11.
SIDEBODY. to L on Bust
Line, incline) and the same amount from 4 to I 2 2
J
4 in. in
.1
.1
FORE PART.
M
for Make = up Line, and Line. Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. up Line and draw line from % i 11 below 33 to J. Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to
square down to
add 2i
in.
Bottom
-
down and incline) draw line
1*)
1
1
From
plait is f in. width.
.1
1
pression.
The
.">
bottom of
draft.
From 10 measure down F 32 and ward to Make-up Line. Draft Curve from
square for-
10 through 39. Add % in. from 39 to 40 and from 41 to 42 for button stand and draw line full leugth of Draft. 1
DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. PLATE
II.
11
FLY FRONT JACKET. Measure.
Gy2 Width 18
8%
of Back.
36
Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.
24
42
To Natural Waist. To Seat and Full Length.
15
20
FOUNDATION LINES Draw baseline
construction line
—2
1
amount of suppression
Draw line
me
—3
1
t
1
—
to natural waist
line from
measure down on (15 in.) and mark in 2,
1
through
5 1
and square across
—
— — and F36 — G36 — H36
of scye measure 136 by bust measure.
E
is
the
Bust Line.
Place end of tape at
A
and measure down
15 in.
Waist
Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which also the length of jacket in this case. to
From B mark up one
is
and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 5, and in.
1
square noting
all
how
lines
down
at
Incline.
2
Suppression.
hip
line.
From M measure back it may meet Natural
wherever
—
right angles to line
1
—
."»,
far each line extends.
same amount down to X at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is in. Draft curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 19 to 8 is 2A in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is Draw line from arm scye through 23 through i in. 24 to 25. From 24 to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 2i in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is % in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to
Measure across width of back (<!A in.) from line one in. above B and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from (5 to 7 1 in. and square down to The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup-
1
1
21,31
to 32.
You
hip measure
is 21
28
A in.
to 34.
1
The 6
to 4;
4 through 7 and 13
A
F;
to
from
F
to 6;
to 31.
SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and
f in.
%'m. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.
ARM SCYE AND in. in
from
1
J,
SIDEBODY. E to L on Bust
Line, (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is \ in. strong from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from II through 18 to Bust line and from I 6 to Bust Line.
I
.
1
This gives a total of in. which makes pattern Hip Measure. Draft curve from 29 to 33, from 26 to 34, 24 to 36 and 8 to 35. <i
FORE PART. From M add 2A in. for Make-up Line, and square down to Bottom Line. Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. up Line and draw line from % in. below 33 to J. Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to bottom of
down and incline) draw line
Mark '2%
and as of add in. from 30 to 33. \ in. from from 25 to 36 and 1A in. from 22 will find this gives 15 in.
5 of
.">1
pression.
2 in. the
as width of back from 5 to 7, then square
to 35.
BACK.
plait is f in. width. Draft curved line from
Bust Measure to Wai.^t Line marked T. \ of
Measure forward from T,
5.
Place square on draft so as stars on square will rliose on draft and mark down A32 B32 D32
— E32 by depth
2
Measure forward \ of Bust Measure (18 in.) from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on
2 in. to 5.
at right angles to line
Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.
draft.
From 10 measure down F 32 and square forMake-up Line. Draw line from 1 through 18 to Bust Line from O to P is H in. from 39 to 44 is A in. from 44 to 43 is \ in., Draft V between ward
to
1
44 and 43.
Draw
from P through 44 to 45; from 44 from 37 to 40 is 3 in. Draw line from 40 through 42 to bottom of jacket. Draft curve from 45 through 40 to bottom as
to
45
is
desired.
3A
line
in.
TIGHT FITTING JACKET, PLATE
III.
13
TIGHT FITTING JACKET.
First
measure
draft
same
jacket
forward from
as
Two
T.
one half of waist measure
plate
O.
to
more than
inches
O
From
Draw
except
1,
Line
3^
for
inches
dart
seams take
of
3
of
dart
make up from P inches
to
which
makes
of
whatever
will
with
3A
one
inches,
may
size
seam
up amount from P of
dart.
to
R
of
Bust
to
from
distance
N
E,
and top
of
dart
is
2A
40
is
one
inches
from
W.
half in
be
From 39
to
inch,
and
from
41
large bias
inch
other
for
words
required
to
42
draft
is
one inch, draw line
curve from
to
be take
one half
is
18
find this leaves
Take out one
R.
dart
you
P,
to
W
through
11
add two to
inches
N.
for
from
line
allowing w inch for
desired.
42
to
from
Bottom
of
40
to
Coat
42 and as
may
GLOVE FITTING WAIST. PLATE
IV,
15
GLOVE FITTING WAIST. ^m^ Measure, Width Length
6i IS
U
Back.
of
Sleeve.
of
To Natural KU To Length
CONSTRUCTION
LINES.
—2
1
natural
to
suppression 2
of
through
5
at right angles to line
1
line
from
1
and square across
— Place square on with meet and mark down A32 — B32 — — E32 — by depth scye measure and across F36 — G36 — H3(> — 136 by bust 1
—3
draft
5.
stars
to
D:'>2
of
measure.
From B mark up Measure down from A, 16£
length
to
in.
B
(except
use
1
of in.
right angles to line
angles
right,
at
to
1
inch
1
15 in. to
and down f inch. natural waist and
waist, square
up and f in. down 5, and square all
—
line
1
—
across
lines
all
instead) at lines
down
to
in.,
The line
square down
line
from
C
to
(5
to
7)
5
is
vised
as
to
Make=up
from
4 through 13 and 7
A to
F;
from
bottom
line.
to
SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and
F
Line.
Draft
curve
Drop
1
T
f in.
SIDEBODY.
in.
Draft curve from 11 through to
18 to Bust line
K
and draw Waist Line
(18 in.)
2
in.,
darts.
Make
small
which allowing
1
in.
seams
in. for
1
makes 4 in. Square down from 18 for 22. Top of dart is tance from 22 to 25.
dart
of darts
it
is
desired to button
hold tape at x (half from 25 to 28.
line.
waist line on to
4
bottom to
point
O
is
2A
in.
waist
way between 14 and
9)
A
of dis-
from O. to
neck,
and sweep
Mark down F from bottom line on make-up Draw line from 30 to F and draft curve from
5
to
Make=up Line
through
R
out
A
in.
of waist.
For
Measure
two
with
case),
and large dart
Bust Line.
Measure forward I of Bust from L on Bust line to M.
from
in.
Measure forward from T, \ in. more than A From N add 2 in. for Make= of waist measure to N. up to P. Take out amount from P to R (4 in. in this
from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 2| and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 16 is £ in. (strong) from 17 to 14, from 12 to 18 is one in.
and from 16
from 10 to 40.
R.
to
When
ARM SCYE AND
angles
1
to 6;
down and £ in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.
Mark
Make-
for
in.
at right
Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward
guide
a
T.
FORE PART.
If in.
is
to
line.
If
only.
to 4;
Suppression.
Measure forward from T, If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, from 20 to 21 is £ in. From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom From 8 to 24 is f in. Draw line from arm line. scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 From 23 to 27 is 2.V in. Draw line to 26 is 2i in. from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom is f in. Add spring from 8, 24, 26 and 29 to bottom line.
to
width of back at waist from
Draft curved line from
6
C and
to
in.
width of back at bottom
2
From M measure back A of Bust Measure wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked
4.
Make
Incline.
Measure forward from M 2A up Line, and square up and down
BACK. <>A
2
noting how far each
3,
line extends.
Measure across
Waist Measure.
of Waist.
5.
Draw
line
24
Waist.
Measure down on base line waist (15 in.) and mark in amount to
Bust Measure.
Depth of Seye.
L5
in.
''><>
in.
lapel waist or jacket waist,
from 40 and draw
10.
measure down
lapel line
from this
WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. PLATE
V.
17
WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. -^8^ Measure* Width of Back. Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.
18 9A
17
CONSTRUCTION
1
in.
A
—2
(1.">A
to
natural
to
suppression
of
5.
Draw
—3
from
line
through
1
and square across
5
— Place square on draft with meet and mark down A36 — Bo(i — D36 — E36 — by depth scye measure and across P42 — G42 — H42 — 142 by bust line
1
at right
angles to line
5.
1
stars
to
of
measure.
From B mark up Measure down from A, L5A 1
length
to
in.
7
B
(except
use
angles
right
across
lines
1
—
right angles to line at
all
up and in. down instead) at 1 5, and square all lines down
in.
1
square
inch.
1
waist and
natural
to
in.
waist,
of
and down
inch
1
line
to
1
—
3, noting
how
'"><>
Waist Measure. Incline.
1
LINES.
Measure down on base line 1 in.) and mark in amount
waist
Bust Measure.
2
To Natural Waist. To Length of Waist.
15i
42
each
far
line extends.
Suppression.
s
From M measure back A of Bust Measure wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked Measure forward from T, amount as width of back from 5
the
in
to
T.
same
then draft
7,
14 and 19, and 20 to 21,
from 12 through from 20 to 21 is f in.
curve
From 19
2
to
from 14 to 9 is 3| in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom line. From 8 to 24 is A in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24
26
8
to
is
2 A in.,
From 23 to 27 is 2 A in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 is A in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom line. From 29 to 30 is 2 in., from 27 to 28 is 2 in. Draw line from 28 through 30 to bottom line. From 30 to 31 is in. Draw line from 28 through 31 to bottom line. Add spring from 8, 24, 26, 29, 30 and 31 to bottom line.
to
is 2 A in.
1
,
J
>
BACK. Measure across to
7
A
Make width width of back
in.,
The line
of at
from
line
C
to
used
is
.">
to
(.">
7)
2
Measure forward from M 2 A up Line, and square up and down to
as
a
euide
only.
to 4;
FORE PART.
square down
back at waist from bottom is 2 in.
to
A
Draft curved line from
6
C and
to
in.
4.
4 through 13 and 7
Mark down
to
to
F;
bottom
SHOULDER. F 36 from G and
from
F*
to
Make=up Draft
line.
Drop
angles
right
forward
Line.
from 10
curve
from
in.
1
R
to
32.
and draw Waist
Line
from T. £ in.
4,
F
at
Make-
for
Bust Line. Mark down F 36 from 10 and square
to 6;
down and iu. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from
in.
6 and draft curve
to
11.
Measure forward from T, 1A in. more than % From N add 2 in. for Make= of waist measure to N. in. to R and take out up to P. From P add this amount with two darts, (small dart f in. and in. for seams of darts). large dart If in., and .'i
1
.
1
ARM SCYE AND Mark
in.
SIDEBODY. E to L (for 2 in.
from
and the same amount from 4 14, from 12 to 16 is in. 18
is
one
in.
and from 16
to
18 to Bust line
Bust Line. A
on Bust line to M.
curve
bottom of
Bust
Measure
(21
it
is
desired to button
hold tape at x (half from 33 to 34.
line.
Measure forward
L
incline)
12 and from 13 to (strong) from 17 to
to
Draft curve from 11 through
from
When
way between 14 and
in.
9)
to
neck,
and sweep
Mark down F from bottom line on make-up Draw line from Side Seam to F and draft from
Waist Line through R
out
A
in.
to
of waist.
For waists where edges
in.)
waist
entire
length of front.
just
meet take
off
A
HALF FITTING BOX COAT. PLATE VL
19
HALF FITTING BOX COAT. •^ Measure. Width
of Back.
36
Bust Measure.
Depth
of Scye.
24
Waist Measure.
42
Hip Measure.
u 20
To Natural Waist. To Hip Line.
28
Long.
15
Incline.
2
FOUNDATION LINES Draw
construction line
line as a base line square
1
—
SIDE SEAM. using this
'and
2,
— A32 — — Do2 — —H
across line
3.
1
Place square on draft so as stars on square will Bo'-' meet those on draft and mark down H B3- by depth of scye measure and Foil G-">'i 136 by bust measure. From B mark up one in. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line, and 28 in. to Bottom Line or whatever length may be desired. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and
—
(
—
down
at
right angles
line
to
I
—
3,
5
to
Draw
6
a line from
F
is
to
A
Draft curve
A
in.,
from
From 22
4 through 9 through 8
to
F;
from
Bottom
F
is
1
A
in.
to 6;
6
to
4;
Line.
Bottom
forward
32 from G, and f from I to 10. (For
Measure back from and draft curve to 1
I
in. 2
down and in. incline)
width of shoulder from
F
to
length
is
cut
out
to
Line.
Make-up and
for
in.
From 24
25
to
square
Draw
f in.
is
in.
•">
in
front
of
Hake=up Line draw
and
at
entire
line
of coat.
32 through 32 and 34
of
to
coat.
1
SCYE.
top button
is
forward
3-
placed
Space for three buttons back from edge. 27.
from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is i in., from 13 to 14 is 1 in,, from 1 2 to 15 is in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 15 to Bust Line. in.
add 2A
Draft curve from
<>
bottom
ARM 2£
this
in.,
Bust Line and Hip Line
The
Mark
1A
is
through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for Hake=up Line. From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to flake=up Line, and draft curve from 10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is J in., and from 28 in., draw line to 29 is A in. from 30 to 31 is from 31 through j in. above 28 to 32. From 28 to 32 is 3A in., cut out V between 28 and 29. Mark down J from bottom line on flake= up Line and draw line from 35 through J.
Add
Mark down F in.
23
FRONT.
M
From
SHOULDER. I
to
Line.
1
to 8
7
6.
to
Bottom
line
Measure across width of back (<>i in.) on line above B to C and square down to 4. Mark 1A in. back from 4 to 5 and square down
Hip Line. From C to
to
give spring over hip.
to
BACK. in.
K
and
noting how far
each line extends.
one
From L measure forward A of Bust Measure in.) on Bust Line to M, and square down to N on Hip Line. Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from h of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line. From 9 to 21 is 2 in. Draft curve from 12 through 14throughh21 (IS
Sleeve
down from These side from x.
notch
is
<!
in.
<>
in.
always
down from
apart and
placed
")
in.
n
14
'
at
the
-
18. coats
are
usually
left
open
FULL BOX COAT, PLATE
VII.
21
FULL BOX COAT. Measure. <JA
Width of Back.
Si
Depth
of Scye.
20
To Natural Waist. To Hip Line.
38
Long.
5
J
36
Bust Measure.
24
Waist Measure.
42
Hip Measure.
2
Incline.
FOUNDATION LINES Draw
construction line
line as a base line square
SIDE SEAM.
2, -and
1
across line
1
—
Place square on draft so as stars on square will meet those on draft and mark down A32 B32 D82
—E32 by depth I.'Wi
measure and F36
of scye
A
Place end of tape at
Waist Line, 20 in. to Bottom Line or whatever
to
Square
length
may
in
— 2 (except B
in.
1
—
3,
to
F
to
A
Draft curve
on line
to 4.
10 to
Hake=up
F;
4 through 9 through 8
from
Bottom
to
F
to 6;
6
to
29
is
from G, and
f-
in.
down and
forward
Add
in
1
.
Mark
SCYE.
in.
top
Sleeve
down from
to
from
1 1
through 18
Bust Line.
to
Bust Line
Hake=
Hake=up Line
of
draw
and
line
at
entire
button
placed
is
notch
7
in.
'i
always
is
in.
down from
apart and
placed
.'>
in.
%
in.
at
the
18. coats
are
usually
left
open
x.
AUTOMOBILE COAT.
forward
Draft curve from
and from 15
front
Space for three buttons back from edge.
side
from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is 2£ in., draw line from 12 through K to Bottom Line. From 12 to 15 is j in. 2|
f in.,
of coat.
These
ARM
in.
:'>
27.
(i
1
is
1
J
The
from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) i Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to and draft curve to in.
and from 28 from 30 to 31 is in., draw line through i in. above 28 cut out V between
Bust Line and Hip Line
Line.
draft
square curve from
from bottom line on Line and draw line from 35 through J.
4;
SHOULDER. ?>2
28
to
in.
h
Mark down
length
Mark down F
From 27
27.
to
F 32 and
and
Line,
from 31 28 and 29.
up
<>.
to
Bottom
to
add 2 A in. for Make-up and square to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for riake=up Line.
From 10 measure down
Mark li in. back from 4 to 5 and square down Hip Line. From C to is I in., from 7 to 8 is U in. a line from
K
12 through
M
From
I!
Draw
curve from
FRONT.
forward to
5
square
Line.
be desired.
in.)
and
to
above B) and noting how far
(lii
M,
Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from i of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line.
BACK. Measure across width of back one in. above B to C and square down
Bust Meas-
of
(IS
Draft
and measure down 15 Hip Line, and 38 in.
lines across at right angles to line
all
ure down
in.
square this line down at right angles to line 1 each line extends. 1
— — — G36 — Ho(i
by bust measure.
From B mark up one
From L measure forward i in.) on Bust Line to to N on Hip Line.
using this 3.
Draft Automobile Coat
on page 22 same as Full Box Coat, plate vn, except to draw line from 3 through 28 and from 15 through 28 to 32.
From 28 desired.
to
32
is
7
to
1\
in.
Draft
lapel
as
AUTOMOBILE COAT, PLATE
VIIL
2a
SLEEVE. PLATE Measure jacket
or
and
pattern
where plain sleeve
arm seye
of
size
sleeve
arm seye of
of
size
is
IX.
in.
less
desired or draft sleeve
same
extra
if
sleeve
draft
fulness
'2
desired
is
in
head. First
paper
fold
on
evenly
construction
1—2.
line
Measure back from x on line
1
—3
and
of sleeve
\
3
points
to
—
Square down lines 3 and 4 to
waist,
coat,
line
—
1
Place part
fore
angles
at right
on sleeve so as
meet
will
from
seye)
of
1
6).
part
fore
(depth
J
(point
in.
1
4.
3.
Measure down and add
of sleeve
A
on
notch
and trace the arm seye of
notch
of
sleeve
(point
part
from 6
fore
6) to
7 on sleeve pattern.
Point
Point 7
is
8
in.
1A
is
1A
from
in.
construction
from point
2.
Measure down the length 7 on
line
7
—8
and add
and
at
wrist
of
amount
From back
in.
A
to
is
Measure
in
curve to
7.
in.
'1
13
to
3
from
in.
{
at
L
in.
to
amount
half
from
desired
T
point
half
down from
Measure
4.
and sweep from
at star
to
from point 3
is
in.
1
5
is
1
to
and from
12 and
13 to
in. in.
outside
10 and draft curve from 14 one quarter
inside
of
Hollow
L
10.
to
sleeve
\\
in.
on
and draft curved lines from 7 Cuff
may
and elbow.
wrist
Draft curve from 5 one quarter of
from
head of sleeve.
for
From 12 14
Hold
star.
sleeve
elbow to L.
at
line 1-3 square
6 through 3
draft
2,
measure back
desired
of
in.
1
Always measure lady Measure back from point
line.
is
in
each to
side
of
T
8.
addition to length of sleeve and
be drafted to
suit.
RAGLAN. PLATE
X.
25
RAGLAN. PLATE XL
Box Coat same
First draft Full
except 24
and add
draft
up
line
long,
20 and
and
down
vn.,
peak
of
2
from 21
omit
to
19
from
in.
22 draw
to
to
2
inches
28
to
as plate,
in.
lapel
length
full
of
through 20 and 22 and square line from 4
Hip Line
5
of from
instead
Hip Line.
to
BACK. 1
&
in.
1
is
from
R
13,
is
to
line
R
R, and from
and through 8
3
is
from
in.
i-
Draft curve from
4
10
| in. from C,
from C, 5
in.
5.
F through
and
11
through line 13
to
is
bottom of
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7
10, at
and waist
draft.
FORE PART. Draw draft
from f
line
in.
below
I
and
to
18
up
from
curve.
RAGLAN
SLEEVE.
PLATE First
regular sleeve.
draft
From 4
9
to
is
and measure up from of shoulder
Draw curve from
F
from line
15
XI.
1 1
Square
in.
same amount
as
9
width
to 6.
from
to
i
15
to
3 and from 15
3 and from
15
to
6.
to
6
INCLINES. PLATE
NO
XII.
INCLINE.
2% UU 53
ONE INCH
TWO
o
UJ
INCLINE.
INCH INCLINE.
N<
â&#x20AC;¢*
^1
NO Measure forward from 4
12
to
Mark for
point
2|
13
from
I
E
from
in.
and from
back
INCLINE.
in.
L,
and 2|
in.
14.
to
£
point
for
on
line
I
—3
and drop
\
in.
A
in.
10.
ONE NCH INCLINE. I
E
Measure forward from from 4
to
12 and from
Mark down
i
in.
13
for
I
viy\
amount from 4
in.
12 and
to
Mark down
2\
f
in.
2
point
10.
IN CLINE.
from
from
and
L and
/b
T WO INCH Measure forward
point
for
14.
to
from
in.
"-'i
13
E to
forward ^
©
for
point
L
and same
14. in.
for point
10.
INCLINES. PLATE
XIII.
THREE INCH
INCLINE.
q
a:
FOUR INCH
INCLINE.
a:
GRADED
**
INCLINES.
sa
^1
THREE INCH INCLINE
^^ Measure
forward
amount from 4
1
in.
from
E
from
in.
12 and from
to
Mark down
2
I
13
for
point
L and same
14.
to
and forward
A in.
for point
10.
^^T FOUR INCH Measure
forward
same amount from 4
Mark down
to
1| in.
If
INCLI NE.
from
in.
12 and irom
from
I
E
for
point
13 to
14.
and forward
INCLINE.
f?^ Showing
all
inclines
in
one grade.
and the
f in. for point
*<?
GRADED
L
10.
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. PLATE
XIV.
31
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. Measure* GJ
Width
18
Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.
U
of Back.
•
16 A
36
FOUNDATION LINES
—
Measure down on base line 1 2 to Natural Waist (15 in and mark in amount of suppression )
in.
to
5.
Draw across
from
line
line
1
—3
at
Place square
mark down
through
1
A32—B32— D32—E32
Measure and
5
and
right angles to line on draft with stars to
F36
across
— G36 —
Measure. From B mark up
in.
1
1
square
—5.
meet and by Depth of Scye H36 136 by Bust
—
and dovn
1
—
—
BACK. C and
square down to 4, make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7) If in. and square down to bottom of draft at right angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. C to 6 is A in. Draw line from F to I!, curve line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and from 4 through 13 to 7. Mark in 2 in. from 36 (same as suppression) and draw line from Hi. to 2, plait is 14, in. in width. <ii
in.
to
I
SHOULDER. Mark down F
32 from G, and f
in.
SIDE BODY.
from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 From 12 to 16 is in., from 17 to 18 to 14. in.
4,
is
1
Incline.
2
Suppression.
to 21 is 2.1 in., from 14 to 9 is 3 from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 draw to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom Line. From 24 to 26 is 2 , in., from 23 to 27 'iy2 is in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in., draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29.
line
1
FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2 and square down to Fashionable right angles to Bust Line. and
F
in.
for
i*lake=up
Waist Line
at
Hold tape at X (A- of distance between 14 9) and sweep from 25 to 28. Mark down 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep-
line.
Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T A in. more than A From N add 2 in. for of waist measure to N. flake=up to P, take out amount from P to R (3i in. in this case) with two darts make small dart in. for f in. and large dart If in., which allowing seams of darts makes 3 A in. O is half of distance from 22 to 25. Top of large dart is 2A in. from O. 1
1
on is
Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F — 31 f up, from F draft curved line through 31 to 32.
Width of lapel at bottom is 2 in, If Waist, •">! in. at Bust and in. at Peak. Draft
lapel
from
and fashionable waist
in.
at
to
peak through bust bottom of draft.
waist
SKIRT. Draw line from 20 to 32, from 20 to 33 is square down from 33 at right angles to line 20 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from X when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller than Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 2
ARM SCYE AND
2
From 19
in.,
down and
forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw I Measure back from 10 same line from 10 to F. amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.
2|
Hip Measure.
'.\
in.
Mark
Waist Measure.
42
inch.
f
Place end of tape at A and measure down L5 in. to Natural Waist Line, 16^ in. to Fashionable Waist Line, and 36 for full length of coat. Square all lines across (except B use in. up and f in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how far each line extends.
Measure across
Bust Measure.
24
To Natural Waist. To Fashionable Waist. To Length of Coat.
Lo
2
'><;
in.,
—
—
1,
in.
through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward of Bust Measure (IS in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure back 4 of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Draft curve from
1 1
of
skirt.
i.
Natural Waist Line
at
T.
Measure forward from T amount as width of back from 5 curve from
If in. the to 7, then
12 through 14 and 19
to
20.
same draft
Length from 33 8
to
38.
to
37
is
Square line from 34
—
the same as from front of skirt
to
angles to line 33 34. From 39 to 40 in., draft curve from 33 through 40 to 32. From 41 to 42 is 2 in., draft curve from
at
right
is
2
37 through 42
to
front
of skirt.
LADIES'
CUTAWAY COAT PLATE XV.
38
CUTAWAY COAT.
LADIES'
Measure. G{
Width of Back.
18
Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.
Si
36
To Natural Waist. To Fashionable Waist. To Length of Coat.
"' 1
Hi'.
30
FOUNDATION LINES
Draw across
from
line
1—3
line
through
1
5
and
square
right angles to line 1—5? Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and across F36— G36— 136 by Bust J
4.
make width
and square down angles to Waist Line. The line from C If
in.
line only.
C
to 6
4 through
13
Mark to 1, plait is
in
U
to 1
h
is
A
curve line from
in.
of back
to 7.
in.
to
square down
F
5
is
to 6;
used as a guide from F to 6 6 to 4; and from line
from 2 and draw line from 16A
in. in
SHOULDER.
m _
32 from G, and f
in.
down and
forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.
i
in.,
draw
line
SIDE BODY.
Mark 24. in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is i in., from 17 to 18 is
1
in.
Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward A of Bust Measure (IS in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line at T
is
3
21
24
to
K
to
is
line
K
and
F
SKIRT. Draw
line from 20 to F, from 20 to 33 is square dowu from 33 at right angles to line 2U 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33— 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from x when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct | in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller thau Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 2
ARM SCYE AND
draft
19 to 20 from 14 to 9 through 9 and
29 is 1 in. and from R from 29 to K. Draft curve from 29 \ in. inside of to bottom of draft. 1
Mark down F
same
Si in. in this case. Take out \ of this amount with bias dart for half fitting or entire amount with two darts for glove fitting. Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F
From 28
width.
the
then
i„.
7
H
at
Draw
If to
M
waist (from 5 to 7) to bottom of draft at right
in.
F;
C and
to
Suppression.
Measure forward from 2 in. for riake=up and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at right angles to Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward to nake=up Line. Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T in. more than \ of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in Hake-up to P. The amount from P to R for is
BACK. to
2
FORE PART.
—
Measure across 6*
Incline.
.
and down f inch and measure down 5 in in.
Place end of tape at A 1 Waist Line, nil i„. to Fashionable Waist Line, and 30 for full length of coat. Square all lines across (except B use 1 in up and | m. dowu instead) at right angles to line 1—5 and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how far each line extends.
Natural
to
2
is f in., draw and 24 to Bottom Line From 24 to 26 is 2y2 in., from 23 to 27 2 Draw lme from 27 through 26 to d :Y U Line. l. * Bottom From 26 to 29 is f in draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29.
H36—
1
Hip Measure.
12 through 14 and From 19 to 21 is 2* in., m. draw line from Arm Scye to Bottom Line, from 21 to line from Arm Scye through 23
at
Measure. From B mark up
Waist Measure.
42
curve from
to 5.
in.
24
Measure forward from T amount as width of back from 5
—
Measure clown on base line 1 2 to Natural Waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2
Bust Measure.
of
in .,
—
skirt.
Length from 33
8
to
38.
to
37
Square line forward
is
the same as from 34 at right
from
angles to line 33—34. From 39 draft curve from 33 through 40 to
to
F.
40
is
2
in
in
h < a.
> X
P <
35
JACKET WAIST. PLATE
XVI.
Measure Width
<;:.
Length
1
U Hi
Scye.
of
Waist.
Artificial
Length.
18
Full
36
Bust Measure.
24
Waist Measure.
Sleeve.
of
Depth
J,
Back.
of
Draft
same
as
except to omit
XIV.,
longer than
Double Breasted skirt
2
Incline.
2
Suppression.
Frock,
and make length
plate
1
in.
\
Fashionable Waist length.
ETON JACKET. PLATE
XVII.
Measure. Width
lii
8ÂŁ Depth
Draft
except
do
from 7
to x.
same
not
2
to
To Natural Waist.
16
Full
as
Vest,
back
plate at
xyiii,
15 and
M
is
page
mark
\
in.
Draft
T.
U
curve
to
from
10 and add
1
in.
M
is
tom
4
to
T
and
Waist Measure.
sweep
from
Incline.
\\
K
to
in.
below
K
and take out dart
Waist
is
desired \\
lines
of
Line, draft curve
7 and from 6
to
sidebody
in.
to
7.
dart
is
taken
8
to
desired
it
should
Waist,
plate
drafted
from
bot-
of draft.
glove fitting
be drafted same
page
in.
2
and curved
When 10
24
through
When
T.
from
7
in.
one-fourth of Bust Measure
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;32
Bust Measure.
From P add
3f>,
out at
F
36
2
Length.
in.
and square across
to
15
hollow
Mark down
M
of Scye.
from
From 12 and
Back.
of
14,
as
Glove
Eton
is
Fitting
IV.,
with lapel and front to suit style desired.
X w H -) 0,
S PQ W -J PQ
5 o Q
Ol,
37
SINGLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE
XVIII.
Measure 23
Length.
10
Opening.
-Si
Depth
•")
To Natural Waist.
1
Back Length.
HI.I
Scye.
of
•"><;
Bust Measure.
24
Waist Measure.
2
FOUNDATION Draw across
line
construction 1
—
Place
LINES.
line
1
FORE PART.
—2
and
square
From G measure down F 32, 10 is f in. down and \ in. forward from I. Measure back from I \ in. less than width of back from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 13
3.
square
and mark down
on
draft
with
stars
A32—B32—D32—E32—
Scye Measure and by Bust Measure. of
Measure down
1
•">
across
in.
—
F36
A
from
G-'Wi
for
to
match
by Depth
— H36 — 136
forward from 10. Measure forward from 5 2] in. (for 2 in. incline) and square clown to bottom of draft. From 14 to 15 is \{ in., draw line from 12 through 15 to bottom of draft and add spring from 15. Measure forward from 12 one quarter of Bust Measure and add 2 A in. (point M) and square M
Waist Line 1
far
each
line
1
—
extends.
A
is
and HiA in. for length of back. Mark up in. from B and square all lines across at right angles in. above instead) 2 (except B square to line I and down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how
—
Incline.
in.
down
bottom
to
O
BACK. Measure across <>A in. on line 1 in. above B to C and square down to 4, 6 is A in. from Draw line from F to 6. C. Measure forward from E one-fourth of Bust Heasure net (point 5), square down 5 at right Through 7 to 8 from 7 to angles to Bust Line. x is A in. and from 15 to x is 1 in., draw line from 5 through X to bottom line and add spring from x to bottom line. Draft curve from A through E and x to bottom line and from A to F, F to 6, 6 through 4 to 5.
is
of draft.
in.
1
1
1
I
1
1
draft curve as desired from dart to 31.
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE Draft same XVIII, in.
in,
from
of lapel.
Make
O
to
lapel 6.
XIX.
Single
make 12
except to
2A
as
from
K
from N, draft curve from
to
O.
Measure distance from A to F, place this amount at 10, measure down length of Vest and add in. (point O) and back up to the opening. Hold tape at L and sweep from M to T. Draft curve from through 18 to Bust Line. Measure from x to x on back, place this amount at 15 and measure across half of waist to N, from N to P is 2 in. From P to K is 4 A in. Take out two darts in. and one of 2A in., this with one of in. for seams of dart makes 4 A in. Draw line from 30 to N and from O to 3 1
Breasted
M
to
M
Mark up
to
5
1
in.
2
in. .">A
to
Vest,
plate
instead in.
and
20 for
of
If
seam
NEWMARKET, PLATE XX.
39
NEWMARKET. Measure. 6
A
Width
of Back.
Length
18
81 Depth
Full Length of Front (from 39 to 46).
•").")
of Scye.
Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.
36
To Natural
15 HI
A
To
1
—2
42
LINES.
Measure
— 2.
Measure clown Natural Waist (15 in.) and
construction line
on base line
24
Waist.
Artificial
FOUNDATION Draw
Waist.
to
1
amount of suppression 2 in. to Draw line from 1 through 5 and
mark
in
across
•">.
line
1
—3
right angles to line
at
I
square
—5.
Place square on draft with stars to meet and
A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and F 36— G 36— H 36—1 36 by Bust mark down
Natural
Waist
A
and measure down
Line,
16
A in.
to
15 in.
Fashionable
Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line and 56 in. to Bottom Line. From B mark up in. and down 1
inch.
Square
lines across (except
all
B use
1
in.
up
—
and | in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 and down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how
—
each line extends.
BACK. 1
in.
C
is
to
7
Measure across width of back (<>A in.) on line above B to C and square down to 4. 6 to \
Make width
in.
of back at
waist
(from 5
and square down through 31 to bottom angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide 54 is in. from 56, draw line from onlv.
1
If in.
of draft at right
line
1
Artificial
Waist
(16£
in.)
to
54.
Plait
is
1
J.
in.
wide which allows for turning in f in. for facing. Draw line from F to 6, draft curved line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and 4 to 7.
SHOULDER. Mark down F j
in.
forward from
from 10 to F. of shoulder from F
-">2
I
line
of
Bust Measure
to
from G, and £ in. down and 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw Measure back from 10 width 6 and draft curve to 11. to
ARM SCYE AND Mark
SIDEBODY. F to L on Bust Line
from and the same amount from 4 to 12 and 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is \ in. strong in. from 17 to 18 is Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. 2J
in.
incline)
1
(18
from L on Bust Line to M and square down to N on Hip Line. From M measure back h of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to x at right angles to Waist Line, x to 21 is in., 54 to 55 is 1A in. 1
to
19 and 21
55.
From 19
from 14 to 9 is 3 in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 8 to 22, from 8 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to 25. Measure from N to 25, 22 to 21 and from m. and as 31 to 32, you will find this gives 17 half of Hip Measure is 21, add li in. from 25 to 36 and 2| in. from 22 to 35. Draft curve from 8 through 35 to bottom of draft and from 24 through 22 to bottom of draft. From 23 to 27 is -)i in. from 24 to 26 Draft curve from 27 through 26 to 30. is 3 in. draft curve from Hip Line from 26 to 29 is \\ 27 through 29 to 30. to
8
is
2
J,
in.,
FORE PART. From square down
M to
add 2A in. Hip Line.
Hold tape
for
at star (half
9) and sweep from
37
Hake=up Line and way between 14 and
to 39.
From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to Hake=up Line. From 39 to 40 is A in. Draw line from 11 through 18 to O, from O to P in., draw line from P through 40 to 41 for is 2 in. From 42 peak of lapel, from 40 to 41 is Draft curve from K at Waist Line in. to 43 is 1
,
:'>.V
1
through 43
(for 2 in.
A
Draft curve from 12 through 14,
Place end of tape at
far
forward
in.)
Measure. to
Length of Back.
Full
56
of Sleeve.
to
Bottom
of Draft.
to 44 and from 37 to 45 is 3 in. 41 through 45 and 44 to Bottom from draft curve of Draft. Measure front length on lady from front collar button to bottom of skirt and apply amount you get from 39 through 37, K and 43 to Bottom of
From 43
Draft, 46 and draft curve from 55
to
46.
FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. PLATE
XXJ.
41
^
at
HOOD,
dt <£
+i-.sV *-.:>•:..*
PLATE
^
XXII.
Measure
This
36
Bust Measure.
2o
Measure over Head.
measure
taken
is
shoulder point over head 1
—3,
Draw from
right
at
I
From
I
measure forward to
line
1
at
shoulder point.
to
construction line
angles
from collar seam
—3.
—2 F
and square across 36, square down F
measure down C 36 and mark up \% from 4 measure down half the amount over head, square line C and 2. From x, measure across C 36 to Y, from 2 measure across D 36, from D mark down F 36. From 1 to 7 is in., from 7 to 8 is f in., from 5 to 6 is Draft curve from f in. through 1—3 line 8 and Y to F, from 8 through 6 to 4 and from 2 to F. in.
1
to point 4,
1
COLLARS. Draft brake line from edge of coat at first button through point 10, add width of top of back from A to F and Jin. (amount from 10 to I), make stand from half in. and leaf from 1 to 3 two to 1 to 2 one and three inches.
Draft curve from 2 meeting gorge line at brake to 4, point is
4
is
%
in.
according to style.
below gorge
line,
from 4
to
5
Draft line from 3 to 5. *J*tJt"t*
AUTOMOBILE COLLAR. Draw
construction line
—
2, from 2 to 3 is 1^ from 3 to 4 is in., from 3 to 5 is % in. more than neck gorge (plate rv), from 28 to 10 and F to A. From in.,
5
1
1
6
', in., from 5 to 1 2 is My, is in. Draft curve 12 to 4 and from 6 to 4, draw line from 4 through 2 to 9, square line from 5 through 6 to 7, from 7 to 8 is 2 in., draft line from 8 through 7 to
to
1
from
9, 11
add
is 4.1
H
in.
in. from 7, draw line from 11 to 12 and on each side of 1 1, draft curve from 2 to 14
as desired.
FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. Draft same as plate vn, page 20, except 56 in. in. front length (to bottom of dress)
back length and Mark 36 in. F from .").">
i
in.
R
and
draft curve
inside of waist line through
20
from Bust Line to F,
mark E 36
from R and draft curve from 4, one quarter inch inside of 9 through 7 to E. From 13 to 14 is in. square line to hip line from 14 and take out dart of 1^ in. at Waist Line. :i
*
w
Waist
Band 2 tin.
tin.
43
&
SHIRT WAIST. a s
dt
•w*SOS**»
For
Silk,
Wool,
or
Washable Goods,
PLATE XXIV.
Measure Length of Sleeve.
18
8^ Depth 1
<
J
A
—
Full
Seve.
of
across
24
Waist Measure.
—
F36
— Go<i — H36 — 136
by Bust
From B mark up
1
FRONT. From L measure
Bust neasure From M square to to Bust Line. Mark down F 36 from G and i + down and + forward from I to 10. Draw line from 10 to F and across
T
+ th of
aud add 3 /2'in. point M. bottom of draft at right angles I
in.
'
Place end of tape at A and measure down full length (Ki'j) for Bottom Line. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 2 (except B square this line in. above B) and down at right angles to line 1 3.
—
Measure.
Incline.
2
Measure.
1
—
BACK. Measure across width of back (G*4 in to C) in. above B and square down to 4 Bust on 'ine 1
Line.
From C to 6 is ^in. draw line form F to 6. From 4 to R is %va.. square from R to bottom From 20 to 21 is 2 r2 in. draft. Draw line from arm scye through R and 21 to 1
of
Bust
Length.
Draw line 1 2 and using this line as a base square across line 1 3. Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye
neasure and
36
bottom of draft and curve line from arm R and 21 to bottom of draft.
size
through
measure back from 10, width of shoulder from F to 6. From 16 to 18 is in. draft curve, from 11 through 18 to Bust Line. Hold tape at R and sweep from M to 9. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep 1
line.
Mark down B 32 from N, draw line from 2 through B and draft curve from 2 through 1 3 and B to front of draft.
From M to 12 and B to 14 is in. for button draw line through 12 to 14 and sweep from 12 Measure from 2 to 21 place this amount at 8 and measure across one half of Waist Measure to O, from O to P is 2 in. for make-up, from P to X is 4 in. in this For lining or foundation take out this amount case. with dart allowing J 2 in. for seams of dart. For fulness or plaiting add 2 in. from 12 to 16 and in. from 14 to 17, omit dart altogether, gather on to waist band from 1 3 to B and gather in to neck band from 9 to 10. 1
stand,
,
From R to L is 2j^in. (for in. incline) square bottom of draft, from 7 to 8 is T 4 in. Draw line L from L through 8 to bottom of draft. Draft curve from L through 8 to bottom of draft. Draft curve from A to F, F to 6, 6 through L to Bust Line. Raise 34 in. at point L (so that fore part will be proper length for back) and draft from this point to Bust Line. '1
to
in.
1
i'
*H»|*Tt*
BLOUSE WAIST. PLATE Draft same as Shirt Waist above, except to distance from
4
1
,
in.
%l4
in.
L
to
M
make
Bust Measure aud Bust Measure aud
one-fourth of
instead of one-fourth of
XXIII.
Waist band for button stand.
Bust Line for lapel.
Omit
dart altogether and full on to waist
baud for
from 13
to 14.
V
for
is
Draw
line
from
I 1
1
in.
more
through 18
to
19 and draw line from 19 through 22
From 22
from 22
cut size of waist and
to
to
24.
23
is
4
1
,
in.,
take out
%
in.
THREE PIECE
SKIRT,
PLATE XXV.
25 in
6in.
45
THREE
OR CIRCULAR
PIECE
SKIRT.
ym^
Measure '24
Waist Measure.
41
Hip Measure.
FOUNDATION Draw
construction line
a base, square across line
mark
Mark
clown
across
C-'-t
1
1
—2
in.,
25
and
sizes)
(all
in.
across 24 again from C,
C and measure down
4.'!
Side
45
Back Length.
V
to
than
and II
half
more make darts
larger, should
1
—2
how
lines across at right angles
all
and down
angles to line
at right
(20 A
From
M
From
O
to
N
13
mark
to
46
is
Hip Heasure
(all
in.
C41
across
is
sizes).
P
to
Hip
(by
Heasure.) line
Draw
line
D
from from
through P
R
through
C
to
bottom
to
X
to
3
Y
through
T
to
V
is
f
bottom
of
and from
V
to
to
11
is
is
•">
2
in.
in.,
in.
this
more or
From
R
4
this
on
less
as
to
is
top cut
in.
and from 45
to
47
Plait, should separate plait be
for
is
3
45.
to
out on
from
line
R
through
N
Draft.
of
For Circular Skirt open goods and place this with
pattern
Draft
curve from
K
entire
43 — 47 lengthwise line
pattern.
and 43
8
make
on goods from
of goods.
C
to
43 and around
K.
on
DARTS. From 7
from 45
45,
from 43 through 44
Bottom
of draft.
R.
to
to
44, measure
curve
Mark From
for trail
in.,
-'5
in.,
draft.
Draft curve from
N
line
to
Draft
placed to
Draw
make
desired.
across half of
is
Y
Measure Side Length from
M.
to
in.)
less
noting
far each line extends.
From L measure
more
line
to
—3,
1
in.
9,
measures
it
measure
it
to
darts smaller.
6
Back Length from R, or Square
%
1
measure, provided
waist
of
8
7,
to
R, this should give
to
length.
full
in.
Length.
Apply Waist Measure from C 10
1,
B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at
44
Length.
WAIST MEASURE.
and using this as
— 3.
C
1,
Front
LINES.
C24 (by Waist /Measure) from from
43
from 9
to
10
is
H
in.
opposite
skirt,
to
will
Then
turn pattern
over
so
that
C
meet and mark around entire pattern side.
This makes only one
namely from 4
45 without
plait.
to
47 with
plait,
or
seam from
in
R
FIVE-GORED SKIRT. PLATE XXVI.
ZSitt.
6 In.
47
FIVE GORED SKIRT. y^:
Measure 24
Waist Measure.
41
Hip Measure.
FOUNDATION Draw
construction line
a base, square across line
Mark down C24 mark
C24 from
across
C
1,
—2
and using
Side
45
Back Lengili.
From 7
this as
3.
and 25
in.
(all
and 43
sizes)
10
R, this should give
to
1
—2
how
and down
at
right angles to line
waist measure, provided
From
M
From
O
N
in.
,
Hip fleasure
across half of
across
D
line
from
Draw
line
from
46
C41
to
P
(by
is
3
from
line
in.
Add
Hip
through P
R
through
to
N
bottom to
of draft.
for
bottom
plait
or cut
on separate
less
make
T
to
44
or
line
make
from
R
Draft curve from
to
R.
can be varied
(this
N
T
to
44, measure from
45,
to
more or
this
and 45
through on line
less
45 as
is
C f
to in.
on each side
K. Draft
curve from
K
add of
1
in.
45 and
of
R N
whatever width to
45 and put
plate.
from 43 through 44
For curved or flounced
V
darts smaller.
or side gore larger or smaller).
trail,
Draft curve
of
draft.
through
of
desired.
Draw
V
more than half
13 in. (all sizes).
is
mark
to
9,
measures more make darts
it
measure
Back Length from R,
desired
T
8
7,
to
Measure Side Length from
Heasure.)
From
to
noting
to to
it
making back
suit
to
— 3,
I
M.
(20 A in.) to
l
1
line
to
far each line extends.
From L measure
2 in.
is
full length.
in.
lines across at right angles
all
10
to
<;
Draw Square
and from 9
3 in.
is
Apply Waist Measure from C
across 24 again from C,
C and measure down
8
to
WAIST MEASURE.
larger, should in.,
Length.
1,
B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at
44
Length.
DARTS.
Waist Measure) from
(by
Front
LINES. I
—
1
4.">
of
P and
N
and
effect A
mark
in.
on each side of 44 and 47 draft curve accordingly.
to
inside
45. in
f
of
in.
48,
and outside
SEVEN GORED SKIRT. PLATE
25171.
XXVII.
6irv.
49
SEVEN GORED SKIRT. Tffi^
Measure '24
Waist Measure.
41
Hip Measure.
FOUNDATION Draw
construction line
a base, square across line
Mark down C24 mark
C
1,
in.,
and
2.">
in.
Square 1
—2
how
and down
at right
8
7,
to
to
9,
across
10 from
again from C,
'24
in.
angles to line
\
1
in.
2
more than
half
of
larger, should
it
measures more make darts
it
measure
less
line
make
to
46
is
make
3 in. for trail,
N
line
darts smaller.
T
Measure Side Length from
Back Length from R, or
to
—3,
1
R, this should give
waist measure, provided
6
length.
full
to
1,
to
this
44, measure
to
from 45
45,
more or
less
as
noting desired.
far each line extends.
From L measure U'o.l
Back Length.
Apply Waist Measure from C
lines across at right angles
all
45
3.
and 43
sizes)
(all
Side Length.
WAIST MEASURE.
C and measure down
Place end of tape at
44
Length.
and using this as
C and C24 from B by Waist Measure.
from
Bi'4
C24 from
across
—2
Waist Measure)
(by
Front
LINES. 1
—
1
4.">
in.)
M.
to
From
M
to
N
is
O mark
From
in.
1.3
(all
curve from
Draw
line
9 and 10 through
sizes).
C41
across
Draft
P
to
(by
Hip
Heasure.)
V
line
Draw
line
D through P to bottom of draft. from R through X to bottom of
from
W
45.
to
from
K
47 from
half
wav between
M
44 and from
half
way between
to
and 11 through 40
side of P,
Draw
43 through 44
Hip Pleasure
across half of
to
to
41, take out f
and 40 and inside
of
48 add
each side of 47, 44, 41 and outside of
on each
in.
4
in.
45 and
on
draft
curves accordingly.
draft.
C
Draft curve from
From through
V
T
to
to
Y
is
f
to
K.
in.
Draft
SPECIAL NOTICE. curve from
K
skirt pattern
cut so that a bias
DARTS. From 7
When
is
R.
to
8
is
3 in.
and from 9
to
10
is
2 in.
edge
will
placed on goods
seam with a
straight edge except in centre of back.
k
>
51
DIVIDED SKIRT. ^ ^
<£ dt
PLATE
XXVIII.
Measure
CONSTRUCTION Draw
line
1
square across line
From 2 \20h
in.)
— 2 and —3.
L
to
41
Hip Measure.
33
Length.
From
LINES.
using
this
base
a
as
L
Hip Measure
M
to
is
bottom
to
is
off
to
7
is
4
from
in.),
4
to
is
5
to
is
Waist Measure
Waist Measure Waist Pleasure
of
of
from 4
to
8
is
from 5
in.),
(5
from
(3 in.),
1
one-fourth of
is
in.,
1
Waist Measure
Measure
6
from
12
to
3
to
(4
is
21
20
•">
in.
is
one-eighth
is
'
2
of
of
to
19 to 22
24
is
'
b
is
in.,
1
through 8
to
1
1
10
to
12 and from 12
1 1
through 25
in.,
from 17
to
8
is
1
is
2
9 through 24
1 1
to
Waist Pleasure should
it
12.
15
to
skirt to
1
5,
16
to
16
8
17,
and
2
in. for
seams (14
measure more make darts larger and
should measure less
make
—3 noting
li
is
This should measure half
(12 in.)
darts smaller.
26
on line
I
— M to 33.
26 and from 7 to
to 27.
27.
and from
to
how
This Skirt
if
it
down
at
right angles to line
far each line extends. is
made
14— 28
in three pieces
and 17—26,
this
and should forms side
piece.
7—27
forms
plaits in
back
prevents any appearance of skirt being divided
when
Balance of draft from 8
of
in.)
points
all
be cut on line to
—24 by
to 19.
Measure length of
Waist
in.
Measure Waist from 14 and from 9
from
in.,
B
(3 in.),
19 and from
to
11
to
to 7.
14
to
is
draft.
on square.
Draft curve from
1
From 13
measure
in.)
is
Square
9
at
in.)
Draft curve from 33 through 1
(2o.l
bottom of
from 22 to 25
in.)
Draft curve from
to
th of waist
Measure same amount from 17 (3
Hip Measure
from 3 through 21
line
waist measure
to
so as to be
in.,
((I
from 10
in.),
from 23
H
is
— 28
of
— 2.
one-third
from 8
to 9,
to
From is
Waist Measure
and the same amount from 5 one-sixth of
7
from
in.)
(8
to
one-eighth
is
7
to
from 20
Draw
6
to
14
top
for plaits.
(12
than one-fourth of
less
in.
1
From 19
Waist Pleasure
one-half of
placed on
is
Square across from 2 through 19 and 20
of
right angles to lines 1
it
not
is
at will.
draft.
From
width of fore part this
buttoned down seam
From 12
M
through
1
taken
in.
1
13
to
1
included in waist measure as skirt, to be
one-half of
is
from
line
Waist Measure.
1
and from
Draw
22
a skirt for each
lad\- is
©
standing.
leg
26
and fulness of
to
^ RIDING HABIT SKIRT PLATE XXIX.
^e
53
RIDING HABIT SKIRT. ««o**<»
Measure
FOUNDATION Draw a
construction line
base square line
From From
in.)
4
to
1
2
to
I
—
1
'
—2 —
From 5
of waist measure
From 2
6
to
is
£ in.,
9
to
using this as
Hip Pleasure
LOi
(
from 5
8
to
7
to is
is
in.),
from 24
and
2
measure
one-eighth
from 8
to
1 1
(3
From 9
12
to
1
Draft curve
1.
25 through 26
from 32 to 33
should be placed.
Measure and
line to
one half of
is
added (13
in.
1
15
Waist
1
16
to
1
larger and
(20^
from 18
to
19
Waist Pleasure
Draft curve from
(3 in.), <i
in.,
from 20
20
to
to
21
I in.
added
to
15 to
18
is
1
in.
(3 in.)
one-eighth of
is
one-fourth of
(4
J,
is
in.),
1
in.
(
2
1
1
more
(!)
in.
one-third of waist measure and
1
in.), .\
in.
is
one-third of
from 22 (!).\
in.)
to
V
36
26
to
24
from
31
to
is
in.
.',
is
29
in.,
1
Apply
in.
.">
30, 31
to
40
to
line
42
to
make
size
darts smaller.
Hip Pleasure
one-half of Hip Measure
From 36 from 37
to
to
37 38
36 is
is
Draft curve from
angles to line
line to
hollow
1
in.
1
at right
one-half of one-sixth of
28 through
28—35, from 35 (!)
.1
in.
to
40
is
in.)
bottom of draft
at right
angles to
on each side of T, draft curve to
43 and from 25
to
bottom of draft 44, cut
throuo-h
43.
Square line from 18 this line.
Measure length of to
full
Bottom of Draft 39, square across from 35
at right
35—40,
more than
in.
one-half of is
in.)
one third of Waist and
12
1
25 and from
to
square down from
in.),
Waist Measure (4
2
less
is
(20.1 in.),
Waist Pleasure Waist Measure
23
35
Hip Measure
one-sixth of waist measure to
to
35—36.
through on
from 22
23
is
measure more make darts
it
from 25 through 40 and 41
19 and from 19 to 17.
is
22
Waist Measure and is
to
draft curve 21 to 17.
From 20 and
from 15
.
one-eighth of waist measure
is
From 18
1£ in
is
from 34
in.,
from 35 to
Square 16 to 17
:;
measures
if it
in.),
(4 in.)
From
28
to
from 30
is 3 in.,
angles to line
to
one-sixth of
is
is
29
of waist (26 in.), should
36 and 38
in.)
Draft curve from 8 to 15.
From
from 27
one-eighth of
is
32, 33 to 34 and 26 to 28.
to
and
Line 13 to 14 simply shows where chamois skin
From blank
to
From 28
Draft curve from 6 to 12.
in.)
27
to
to 28.
From 23
to II.
one-sixth of waist measure (4
is
in.,
This should measure one third of waist
square down to point
and from 6
from 26
in.),
waist measure from 15 to 19, 21 to 23,
Hip Measure
to first line across is
(8 in.),
is
1
Waist Pleasure and
in), square across from point 9.
From 4
26
to
(K)
in.
Waist Pleasure and in. (!) one-third of Waist Pleasure
one-third of
is
Draft curve from 21 to 23,
in.
.1
25
to
at right angles to line
one-eighth of
is
Length.
right angles to line
at
from 7
(3 in.),
59
Pleasure).
and square down point 4
«*.
Hip Measure.
3.
Square across point 2 1
41
24
— 2 and
1
C 41 (Hip
is
Waist Measure.
LINES.
one-fourth of
is
24
skirt from 15 to 8,
45 and from 28 through 36
From 24
to
43
is
Draft curve from
6 through
to 39.
10 in. less than length.
45 through 44
— 43
to
39.
54
<j£
%5C
<j£
LA r H
.
PLATE XXX.
«£
v^5
«e£
CAPE.
SQUARE.
<7ftr
<?f^
Measure. Stand lady
front
in
front shoulder (point
10)
of
PLATE XXXI.
mirror, place
tape
at
and measure over shoulder
and down along arm full length may be desired and take usual measures for waist. First draft waist pattern same as plate iv, page 14, and place pattern on paper so that point F on back and point 10 on shoulder and point 6 on back and point 1 1 on shoulder will meet. Draft from 10 to 28 and down, sweep through 25 and K to bottom of draft. Draft from F to A and from A down back through 15J4 to bottom of draft. From 10 measure down length of Cape on line 25 K and hold at 10 and sweep from M to N.
OJ
en
—
The above want
gives full
less drapery,
point 6 and
military cape,
when you
back and shoulder together in. apart from F to 10 and
place
and mark around back from 6 to F, F to A and A through 15 to bottom of draft. Should you wish still less fulness, cut in front of waist 2 in. from 10 back to 2 in. from 6 and open frcnt on this line, after front is opened cut the same as you opened back (from 10 to F). Mark down line 25 K and around bottom same as you did back, this takes out two darts on each shoulder and makes a perfect fitting golf cape. Add li in. from 28 to 29, 25 to 26 and at
1
''>
I
Co
—
Oi
M
P
to
26
(for
to
button stand).
Draft line from
29 through
P. to
2 ty=t
This Square of
which
(a
duplicate
furnished
is
with t
this
Text Book)
reduction of
is
a one-fourth
square and will apply plates
in
the same
square large
box
skirts.
the
to
Text Book
manner used
drafts,
length
and
this
is
wood
large box
that in
except coat,
in
large
making to
full
newmarket
lit -s -a
10 ±±± ±ii
±±±
I
12
13
±±± ±±±
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
** <&
INDEX,
**
s
013 973 188 8
TE Depth
Application of
of Scye.
Automobile Coat Blouse Waist Collars
Cape Double Breasted Jacket Double Breasted Front
Double Breasted Vest Divided
Skirt
Eton Jacket Fly Front Jacket Full
Box Coat
Full Length
Box Coat
Five Gored Skirt
General Remarks
Glove Fitting Waist
Graded Inclines Habit Skirt Half Fitting Box Coat
Hood Inclines
0,
Inclines,
2
1,
3,
4
Jacket Waist Ladies'
Cutaway
Measure
New Market Raglan Raglan Sleeve Sleeve Single Breasted Vest Shirt Waist
Seven Gored Skirt Square
Tight Fitting Jacket
Three Piece Skirt Waist
for Stout
Lady
.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I
II
III
III
n
mm
i
i
n ....
ii
M
013 973 188 8
I
»