Spring Issue n.1 (English)

SPRING ISSUE 2017

NO. 1

DISCOVER

NAPLES TRAVEL AND FOOD MAGAZINE

THE HAIR OF DE DIOS The profane relic containing a hair of Diego Armando Maradona kept at Bar Nilo in Naples

STREET FOOD IN NAPLES Everything goes inside a neapolitans sandwich: because the "Marenna" is a serious thing.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY LISA SICIGNANO

THE RIONE SANITÀ History, people and place in an acient Naples District

“I am leaving.

I shall not forget Via Toledo, nor any other of the parts of Naples; to my eyes this city has no equal and is the most beautiful city in the universe.”

MARIE-HENRI BEYLE (STENDHAL)

#DISCOVERNAPLESMAGAZINE

CONTENTS 23

05

DISCOVER...

THE INTERVIEW The profane relic containing a hair of Diego Armando Maradona kept at Bar Nilo in Naples

by Andrea Chiara Grillo Translated by Mauro Cariello

20

Pozzuoli: "The Rione Terra"

by Chiara Andrea Grillo Translated by Mauro Cariello

31

THE DISTRICT The Rione Sanità

by Ciro Cuozzo Translated by Giovanna Giannone

STREET FOOD Everything goes inside a neapolitans sandwich: because the "Marenna" is a serious thing.

by Discover Naples Translated by Giovanna Giannone

FIRST PAGE PICTURE: VIA SANTA MARIA ANTESECULA IN RIONE SANITÀ, TOTÒ HOUSE; CONTENT PICTURE: RIONE TERRA. | PHOTOS BY LISA SICIGNANO

13

NEAPOLITANS RECIPES Casatiello or Pastiera?

History, riecipes and curiosity.

40

Events Don't miss it!

41 How and when Neapolitans advices for discover Naples.

42 Neapolitans Lesson Do you speak Neapolitan?

43

The magazine The project and the team of Discover Naples.

IN ORDER FROM ABOVE TO BELOW: PHOTOS BY PIETRO SCOLORATO AND LISA SICIGNANO.

DISCOVER NAPLES ADVICE #1

Naples is a great city, unpredictable daily theater.

You will be surprised.

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THE BAR NILO VIA SAN BIAGIO DEI LIBRA IS FULL OF TOURISTS.

THE HAIR OF THE DIOS The profane relic containing a hair of Diego Armando Maradona kept at Bar Nilo in Naples

by Andrea Chiara Grillo Translated by Mauro Cariello

PHOTOS BY PIETRO SCOLORATO

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THE INTERVIEW

In the historic town centre of Naples, in via San Biagio dei Librai, few feet away from the main places of historical and cultural interest of the city, there’s a small café, the Bar Nilo, where there’s a little aedicule keeping an original hair of Diego Armando Maradona, icon of international soccer and sacred and untouchable figure for the Neapolitan population. Naples, the capital of the South, the city of a thousand ideas, of “mille culure”. Another testimony of the extraordinary fantasy and creativity of its inhabitants. The creator of the now famous altar is Mr. Bruno Alcidi, owner of the café who, constantly smiling and never stopping his busy work by the register, has agreed to satisfy our curiosity regarding his brilliant and unusual “worship”.

for the shared sense of disappointment, I did

not. I will not lie, however, about not letting him

out of my sight for a single moment. Once the plane landed, as I was reaching the exit, I walked past his seat. My eyes gazed at the headrest where a few black and curly hairs were

stick. They had to be his!So, with no second thought, I took them and put it in the cellophane layer of my cigarettes package, the temporary case of my little treasure. It was a carefree move, made from impulse so I could brag about it with my relatives and friends. Sure, I could not expect what my gesture was destined to become in the future.”

What happened then? Where did the idea of exhibit it in the café came from?

“That night, when I came back home still euphoric, I decided that my trophy could not remain just a source of pride among my

First things first: what is the beginning of this story?

acquaintances, it had to be something more. I got a small plasterboard niche, like the ones

“It was February 11th, 1990, I went to San Siro

scattered in Naples to worship the sacred icons.

Stadium in Milan to see the major-league match

I wanted to obtain a sort of sacred-profane

Milan – Napoli, a match which left me some

contrast, even if Maradona is considered an

bitter memory for its result: 3-0 for the red-black

unofficial saint in Naples, together with the real

team. That night, while I was heading back to

ones!At first I hanged it outside and only in

Naples, I had the fortune to find myself on the

occasion of Maggio dei Monumenti. But then,

same plane of Maradona. I could not believe it,

both because of the children who made it fall

el pibe de oro, the Argentinian champion, sit

with their enthusiastic attitude and because it

there with the rest of the team only a few rows

had become a true touristic attraction, I decided

away from me! You could feel the love of

to display it inside the café, next to other relics

Maradona, of his teammates, and of all the

of soccer and Neapolitan tradition that I keep

supporters, even if it was not directly manifest. I

closely.”

wanted to get nearer to my hero, maybe take a picture with him but, partly for hindrance of finding myself next to a giant of soccer, partly

After this thrilling tale, a question arises: have you ever tried to get in touch with Maradona?

1) TN: “a thousand colors” is a verse from a very famous song about Naples by songwriter and singer Pino Daniele.

THE INTERVIEW

and visit us and captured our sacred altar in a

Did you collect all the gadgets you displayed in your café or your customers helped to expand the collection?

picture, promising to show it to her father.”

“Some were mine, some were given to me by

“No, actually I never tried to contact him, but he is aware of the relic because his daughter came

If you ever get the chance to reach him, what would you like to say to him?

several Argentinian tourists who, knowing the popularity of the place and acknowledging my

“Of course, I would say thanks. He is the one who

passion, were so lovely to bring me some objects

gave me the chance to get famous all over the

representing Maradona like, for instance, dolls

world.”

with his features.”

Are you happy with finding his hair or would you rather have found something else?

Which object you cherish the most?

“There is nothing else I would have wanted to

hair, but I am also emotionally connected to the

find. I am very happy to own one of his hair

prints hanging on the walls. My brother used to

because it was something that happened by

love them. He is actually the one who made

“I can’t hide that I have a special bond with the

chance and for fun.To look for a thing with the

them, and the starter of this tradition of

intention of necessarily finding something would

Neapolitan culture that we love to promote in

have been a stretch. On the contrary, what

our café.”

happened to me was completely spontaneous. A chance ending up in a subject of worship, a

Are there other charming stories that you would like to tell us?

benchmark for citizens and tourists."

BAR NILO INSIDE.

2 TN: Maggio dei Monumenti is a cultural event in Naples, it takes place in the month of May and includes free tours to museums and monuments.

15TH FEBRUARY 2017 : NEAPOLITAN SUPPORTERS OUTSIDE BAR SAN LORENZO IN PIAZZA SAN GAETANO.

DISCOVER NAPLES ADVICE #2

Walking through the neapolitan narrow streets is a sensory experience: the confusion, the voices, the "panari", the clothes hanging in the sun, children playing soccer, the food smellthat pervades the streets ...!

You have to live this experience!

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THE INTERVIEW

BRUNO ALCIDI: BAR NILO OWENER.

“There are no stories like the one of the hair,

just a profane reference to the religious

but I can tell that no object is displayed

tradition of the melting blood of San

randomly, everything is planned carefully with

Gennaro, kept in a beaker from centuries. In

all due respect to the values that we would

our beaker we poured, ironically and

like to share. An instance is the Padania

symbolically, the “tears” wept by the

calendar that I put up the wall ironically.

Neapolitans when Maradona left the city in

Nothing too serious, it is just a funny way to

1991”.

make our customers smile as they taste a good coffee.”

You have got so many objects to look at that the time of a coffee is way too short to admire them all. But among them, we spot a little beaker saying “real Neapolitan tears”. Can you tell us more about it?

Whose character, from the present or from the past, you would like to keep a memory?

“Speaking of soccer, Maradona was unique. I could not substitute him with no one else. But ‘na tazzulella ‘e cafè without Pino Daniele singing in the background has a whole

“As all the others, this object is the result of an

different taste. That is why I also put pictures

humour totally made in Naples. The beaker is

of him on the walls.”

3 TN: Padania is a popular name for the Po valley, often referred at as politically opposite to the southern regions.

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CASATIELLO OR PASTIERA?

by Discover Naples | photo LISA SICIGNANO | Translated Mauro Cariello

ON THE MODEL

Casatiello has very ancient origins, we can even find a testimony of its existence in the play “La gatta Cenerentola” (The Cinderekka Cat) of 1634

by Giambattista Basile. The writer tells about the celebrations held by the king to find the young lady who lost a slipper and stole his heart. “È venuto lo juorno destenato oh bene mio: che mazzecatorio e che bazzara che se facette! Da dove vennero tante pastiere e casatielle? Dove li sottestate e le porpette? Dove li maccarune e graviuole? Tanto che nce poteva magnare n'asserceto formato”.

Roughly translated, it means: “The destined day for my sake has come: how much we ate and what a feast we had! Where did all those pastiera and casatiello came from?

And the stew, and the meatballs? And the macaroni, and the sweet steam bread? A whole army could be fed out of it”.

The term “Casatiello” derives, in fact, from “caso”, which in Neapolitan language means cheese, recalling the huge amount of it that can be found inside of it. But the tortano (in which the hard-boiled eggs can only be found in slices on the inside) is truthfully more ancient that the casatiello, the latter is an evolution of the former.

One day, one of the bakers who prepared the tortano must have simply decided to put some whole raw egg into one to try and make it tastier. Once he put out of the oven this supertortano (or maybe a single attempt wasn’t enough, and it took more) he realized that the eggs, underneath the shell,

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were cooked and had a specific taste thanks to the dough they were baked in: casatiello was finally born. On each egg put on the ring-shaped cake were set two perpendicular little stripes of dough, representing the Cross.

Ingredients: • 600 g super-fine flour (“00”) • 300 ml water (lukewarm) • 150 g lard • 25 g fresh brewer's yeast • 10 g salt • black pepper (to taste) • 1 teaspoon barley malt • 150 g Neapolitan salami • 150 g boiled ham • 100 g bacon • 150 g swiss cheese • 150 g gruyere • 150 g provolone • 50 g grated parmesan • 50 g grated pecorino • lard (for brushing) • 4 raw eggs (as decoration) Tools: ring-shaped mould diam. 26 cm Procedure: • Start preparing the dough, which is going to take a couple hours to rise: take a small bowl and pour the flour, the sault, the barley malt (to taste) and gradually the yeast (previously melted in lukewarm water) in it, then start kneading • Add what remains of the water and

let the flour absorb it, then add the lard and mix it all together • Once the dough is solid enough, move it on a flour-dusted counter and keep kneading it vigorously for at least ten more minutes • Beat, pull, and stretch the dough until it reaches the perfect solidity • Give it the shape of a ball and put it in a bowl, cover the bowl with a layer of plastic wrap and leave it to stand in the oven (leave the light on to get the correct rising).

• After two hours, take the dough and lay it on a pastry board with the aid of a rolling pin; after giving it a rectangular shape, keep some of it to use it later for the decoration of the eggs • Cut the cured meats and cheese and slice them in small cubes, then arrange them on the phyllo dough and sprinkle it with the grated cheese • Roll the dough to form a sausage shape and set it in a greased ring-shaped mould • Grease the surface with the remaining lard and make it stand in the oven again for half an hour • Once the time required has passed, take your casatiello and set the raw eggs on its surface, then fix them on it using stripes from the remaining dough • Let the whole casatiello stand again for half an hour • Cook in a preheated oven at 170°C for 60 minutes, turning up the heath at 180° for the last 10 minutes • Once baked, make it cool completely before taking it out the oven and ... enjoy it!

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Origins Legend has it that the siren Partenope, symbol of

Armeno. There is also a more realistic legend telling about

the city of Naples, dwelt in the Gulf which goes from

some fishermen who, due to an unexpected harsh weather,

Posillipo to the Vesuvius, and that she rose from the

were stuck at sea for one day and one night straight. Once

sea each year when spring came to greet the merry

they managed to get home, when asked how they could

people who lived there, cheering them with songs of

resist with such bad waters for so long, they answered that

joy. On one occasion, her voice was so melodious

they had the chance to eat the Pasta di Ieri (“the dough of

and agreeable that all the citizens got charmed and

yesterday”), made of ricotta, wheat and flavourings. For that

blissful, so they rushed by the sea, touched by the

reason, besides its ingredients, Pastiera started to be looked

sweetness of the siren’s singing and by her words of

at as a symbol of reborn, because it had given those four

love towards them, and to show gratitude, seven

fishermen a second life. Pastiera is a cake of shortbread

among the most beautiful young girls from different

stuffed with a mixture of ricotta, candied fruit, sugar, eggs,

villages were appointed to deliver the gift of nature

and wheat boiled in milk. Once baked, the dough is crisp

to her: flour, ricotta, eggs, soft wheat, water from

while the filling is soft. Its colour is an intense golden yellow.

orange blossoms, spices and sugar. The siren laid

The scent and the flavour can change based on the spices

down those precious offerings in the sight of gods,

and flavouring used during the preparation. In the classic

who then gathered and mixed them with their divine

recipe, the flavouring used are cinnamon, candied fruit,

arts, turning them into the first Pastiera, whose

orange peels, vanilla, and orange blossom water.

sweetness overtook the singing of the siren herself.

The recipe was later perfected in convents to get to the current one, and the most famous is the one from the nuns in the convent of San Gregorio

It is said that Maria Teresa d'Asburgo-Teschen, second wife of King Ferdinando II di Borbone, nicknamed the Queen who never smiles, yielding to the insistence of her fun-loving husband, agreed to try a slice of pastiera and could not help smiling; that is considered the birth of the adage “magnatell ‘na risata” (literally “eat a laughter”, a famous popular saying that people in Naples use to push for cheerfulness).

The Recipe Ingredients for the dough • 250 g durum wheat • 200 ml milk • lemon peel from half a lemon • cinnamon • 1 spoonful sugar • 150 g lard • 150 g sugar • 1 egg (whole) • 2 egg yolks Ingredients for the filling • 500 g Ricotta di Bufala Campana DOP

7- The dough must now be divided in two parts, one of which must be rolled down with a rolling pin and laid on the cake pan, previously greased with some lard.

8- At this point the filling must be poured on the dough and properly leveled with a kinife.

9- The leftover dough must be cut into approximately an inch-wide stripes which must be laid on the filling forming intersections.

10- The baking at 180°C takes about an hour and a half. Before serving, some powdered sugar should be dispersed on the cake.

Enjoy it!

• lemon peel from half a lemon • orange blossom water • candied fruit • 6 egg yolks • 4 egg whites (beaten until stiff) • the wheat (previously cooked) • powdered sugar Preparation 1- Leave 250 gr of durum wheat to soak for two days, drain it and cook it in water for 15 minutes.

2- After draining it a second time, the wheat must be laid in a container with 500 ml of milk, lemon peel from half a lemon, cinnamon and a spoonful of sugar.

3- Simmer until the milk is completely absorbed (about two hours).

4- While the simmering is done, you can start preparing the shortbread by mixing 150 gr of lard, 150g of sugar, a whole egg and 2 yolks, then leave to strand for about thirty minutes.

5- For the filling, the first thing to do is to sift 500 gr of Ricotta di Bufala Campana DOP, then to mix it in a bowl with wait remains of the sugar, the lemon peel, the orange flowers water and the candied fruit cut in small pieces.

6- Knead it all together with 6 egg yolks (adding them one by one), the wheat previously cooked, and the 4 stiff beaten egg whites.

OCTOBER

2019

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MIXED

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STREET FOOD EVERYTHING GOES INSIDE A NEAPOLITANS SANDWICH: BECAUSE

THE "MARENNA"

BY

DISCOVER

NAPLES

IS A SERIOUS THING.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DI LISA SICIGNANO | TRANSLATED BY GIOVANNA GIANNONE

In Naples there is a tradition, the sandwich (called the Neapolitan "Marenna" to emphasize its magnitude) is, after the pizza, highly regarded by the Neapolitans. Today is usually prepared by butchers for lunch of laborers (specifically for those who perform very strenuous work activity) or to satisfy the appetite of those who prefer to eat the "substance" apparently giving little importance. Until recently it was considered a nifty little food. “Palatoni” (whole pieces of bread cut in half lengthwise), “Sfilatini” (bread baguette type but more often) or simple sandwiches (but still large enough to contain all the containable) the bread of every form and substance is seasoned with fried vegetables, with salami, with provolone or mozzarella cheese, with meat, with dumplings with meat sauce or fried ones, with the eggplant parmesan, or with the “Soffritto”... historically, the latter was made out to "Vasci "(the houses on the ground floor) by housewives, sellers of "Zuffritto" to contribute to the economic expenses of the family: the workers used to go to these women with "Palatone" for season it with this sauce, to eat during their break from work.

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The zucchinis to the “Scapece” are a typical dish of the region Campania. The term Scapece, it originates from a Spanish term “Escabeche” and it indicates a preparation based on fried zucchini and subsequent aromatization in vinegar. Usually the Neapolitans eat these zucchini as a side dish with meat or fish.

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RIONE TERRA

RIONE TERRA. DISCOVERING THE PUTEOLIAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE FROM ROMAN’S AGE

BY ANDREA CHIARA GRILLO PHOTO BY LISA SICIGNANO TRANSLATED BY MAURO CARIELLO Pozzuoli hides, in its namesake and very ancient harbour, an area of charming natural beauty, depositary of a millennial history and dated back to the times of Romans. If you seek an adventure or you simply love the places from the past, you cannot help visiting the archaeological area of Rione Terra, considered the beating heart of the historic metropolitan city.

Sit on a promontory which overlooks the Gulf of Naples, the borough, surrounded by the sea on three sides, was called Terra, which in the Middle Ages indicated the residential area fenced with walls.

Its above-ground (therefore strategic) position, served to defend it and monitor the arrival of enemies who could come from both land and sea.

Inhabited since the 2nd century B.C., the Rione Terra represents the first housing unit of Pozzuoli and the main harbour of Rome before the one in Ostia was built.

As the story unfolds, the quartier of Pozzuoli was the dramatic scenery of a series of natural events which implicated, in 1970, the departure of its inhabitants, not only for the repeated seismic events, but also for the bad hygienic conditions of the place itself. The earthquake in Irpinia in 1980 only worsened this general situation.

Marked by a phase of economic recession, for a long time the zone was subject of renovation works, upgradings, and exploitation of its ancient area, four thousand square meters wide, and its subsoil, today an underground archaeological route. Only since 2014 the area has opened to the public again.

DISCOVER NAPLES ADVICE #3

The food in Naples is worshiped as if it were a "Saint": pizza, ragù, sfogliatella (riccia and frolla), babà, casatiello pastiera, genovese, "Marenne" of all kinds, ...

You have to taste all!

FROM THE LEFT: HOUSES IN RIONE TERRA AND POZZUOLI SKYLINE; INSIDE SAN PROCOLO CATHEDRAL; BELOW: OUTSIDE THE CURCH.

To visit Rione Terra means to go back in time through the centuries and dive into an atmosphere of past ages. We also report, in this regard, the three other archaeological areas that the visitor can discover and admire: the multimedia exhibit “Tra terra e mare alle origini del gusto”, an underground archaeological site, and the San Procolo cathedral. “Tra terra e mare alle origini del gusto” is a project promoted by the Goverment Department for Archaeological Sites of the Campania region, in partnership with the Municipality of Pozzuoli and Regione Campania, and its target is the discovery of the wonders of Campi Flegrei and Pozzuoli through the fil rouge of food. The visitors will in fact have the chance to see the import products, result of the maritime trade, the rooms where the wheat was processed and preserved, the tabernae (the places where one could eat the fish), and the garum (a liquid sauce prepared from fish guts and used by the Romans as a condiment). The exhibititinerary is a trail which twists and turns between present and past, ancient and modern and contemporary, among underground buildings and virtual mappings which will serve to reproduce in an interactive and multimodal 1 TN: Between land at sea to the origins of taste.

way the activities that were once carried out on this territory. In short, an unbelievable and amazing multisensorial experience, full of colours and special effects to explore the Puteolian soil. The tour, the pictures, and the related videos can be found following, on several social networks, the official hashtag #pozzuoliterramare. The underground archaeological site represents the continuum of the interactive exhibit, not only for the values and meanings that it wishes to give but because the two are actually connected.

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The area, inaugurated on June the 15th 2002, presents itself as a historic travel through marvelous spaces and archaeological Roman finds, such as the pistrinum, an oven from Augustan Age used for the processing and baking of bread, and the ergastula, a place devoted to the life of the slaves. Besides, a proper look must be given to the painted walls, whose main subjects are the twelve Gods of Olympus. Both tours are free but require mandatory reservation.The itinerary is open on Saturday and Sunday from 9.00 to 17.00 and it includes a 40 minutes long tour with a certified tour guide.

VIEW OF POZZUOLI FROM VIA CAMPI FLEGREI.

Let us continue our touristic tour with the San Procolo Cathedral.

Set on the top of Rione Terra, it underwent a lot of renewal interventions due to the seismic events which hit it on 1970 and a fire which broke out in the Church during the night between May 16th and 17th, 1964 and destroyed the central aisle. It wasn’t opened again for rituals until May 11th, 2014.

The Cathedral consists of two opposite buildings, the temple of August, built to celebrate the namesake Emperor, and the late-Baroque Christian church.

That’s precisely because of the combination of these two monuments that the whole building is called “Tempio-Duomo”.

The Saint who gives the Cathedral its name is the patron of the city and of the Pozzuoli diocese, his celebration happens on November 18th.

The Cathedral can be visited for free as well (in this case reservation is not mandatory) and is open for the tour on Saturday – from 9 to 12 and from 17.30 to 19.30 – and on Sunday – from 10 to 13 and from 17.30 to 19.00.

The archaeological area of Rione Terra can be easily reached using public transport. We suggest you wear comfortable shoes and clothes. The reference station is Pozzuoli.

The archaeological area of Rione Terra can be easily reached using public transport. We suggest you wear comfortable shoes and clothes. The reference station is Pozzuoli.

You can get there by Tube (line 2), Cumana, and EAV buses that you can take on Piazzetta Circumvesuviana, near Piazza Garibaldi, heading to Napoli – Monte di Procida. Once you arrive in Pozzuoli, a pleasant walk through the historic town will make you live the everyday life of a culture which was thought to be lost.

When: each Saturday and Sunday and on public holidays Timetable: Underground Archaeological tour and Multimedial Exhibit “Tra terra e mare alle origini del gusto” from 9.00 to 17.00 with mandatory reservation; San Procolo Cathedral, Saturday from 9 to 12 and from 17.30 to 19.30, Sunday from 10 to 13 and from 17.30 to 19.00.

Cost: Free entrance Info and reservations: 081 1993628 - 081 19936287 prenotazioni@comune.pozzuoli.na.it

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STREETS IN RIONE TERRA.

"St'anno m'é capitato 'navventura... dopo di aver compiuto il triste omaggio. Madonna! si ce penzo,e che paura!, ma po' facette un'anema e curaggio." À

L I V E L L A ,

A N T O N I O

D E

C U R T I S ( T O T Ò )

# D I S C O V E R N A P L E S M A G A Z I N E

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RIONE SANITÀ

BY CIRO CUOZZO | PHOTOGRAPHED BY LISA SICIGNANO TRANSLATED BY GIOVANNA GIANNONE

IN THIS PAGE: MURALES BY TONO CRUZ IN FONTANELLE STREET NEXT PAGE: IINSIDE "PALAZZO DELLO SPAGNUOLO".

A place where the Greek and Roman history is buried,

Just on the occasion of such an important anniversary, in

where every day cultures and ethnicities are mixed,

"his " quarter are scheduled months of celebrations and

making the Rione Sanità, situated immediately out the

initiatives. From April to December they will be different the

old boundaries of the city, to the feet of the hill of

events organized for remembering the prince of the

Capodimonte, an unique place in its kind.

laughter that really between the alleys and the roads of this

An alive district and in continuous ferment that, despite

area where he is grown and he has taken inspiration for his

the so many difficulties, it represents one of the best

so many characters interpreted during the long artistic

faces in Naples today, one of the zones more

career. Where Totò was lead around by the driver at two in

frequented and appreciated by the tourists coming

the morning, not to be recognized, and he left some penny

from the whole world. Churches, cemeteries, ancient

under the door of the unknown persons.

buildings, ruins, but also market of the Vergini,

To the second floor of the civic 109 of street Saint Maria

enoteche 'social', pizzerie and confectioneries, literally

Antesaecula was his house. Waiting for a place like a

attacked by foreigners, erasmus, students out center

museum in which safeguard this memories, her daughter

and same Neapolitans. A place where Antonio de

Liliana put into this house, a plate and a bust remember the

Curtis was born on the 15 February of 1898, in art Totò,

deeds of the great actor. "It was, here in the street Saint

actor and Italian comedian among the greatest usual,

Maria Antesecula, one of the most ancient roads in the old

disappeared on April 15 of fifty years ago.

Naples that 15 - 02 - 1898 was born the prince Antonio De

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the Vergini. "Before he sold only some wine, but it has become today a place of meeting and comparison, a social place where every evening, thanks also to the music, different emotions are lived." A place that synthesizes to the best the soul of the Rione Sanità. Aggregation and sinergie among the various dealers of the district. To make net to offer a continuous attraction to residents, tourists and Neapolitans of passage. Confectioneries, pizzerie and as other activities of the zone that offer products of level to competitive prices indeed. A place where sacred and profane and give life to legends and special stories.

One of these concern the famous one "the Captain's skull", present inside the cemetery of the Fontanelle and

Curtis. Our Totò was a comic inimitable for his mimicry.

Noble man feelings, famous poet, among those that Italy can contrast to the greatest artists of the world."

There was a very strong bond of affection between Totò and his quarter. Despite the following transfer to Rome, the prince of the laughter often returned in his district. Here it had his cobbler of trust that with great respect he called "teacher" and the friends who he is grown. Just in the Vergini small dealers and artisans give life to one of the most beautiful markets in the city. "Every days wake up there to tall head with the objective to improve this district" a young boy tells, as soon as 25enne, that he manages a wine cellar together with the family, from generations present in

IN THIS PAGE: FONTANELLE CIMITERY; "IL TESCHIO CHE SUDA"; SKULLS;

preserved in a reliquary of glass, and not of wood, to preserve it from the damp. Considered by the Neapolitans a pious soul that all the devoted believers help, the "the Captain's skull" it is mainly tied up to the legend of the "two newly-weds."

The story tells of a young promised bride that she went every day on his way to the Fontanelle cemetery to visit his "Skull Captain". A custom that didn't have however the approval of her promised groom. This last one day asked to accompany her because he was curious to see the famous skull and to deny the dear popular belief.

Once in the cave, the young man put a stick in the eye socket of the skull and, with wicked humor, invited him to his wedding. The wedding day among the guests suddenly appeared an unknown man in a policeman's uniform. Intrigued by the strange presence, the groom drew near and obviously asked him to qualify.

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PREVIEW PAGE:VIA SANTA MARIA ANTESECULA 109 AND HIS PORTRAIT; IN THIS PAGE HIS HOUSE.

RIGHT PAGE:IL PALAZZO DELLO SPAGNUOLO; IN THIS PAGE: SOME DECORATIONS.

The policeman put back that he had been really invited by him to his marriage remembering him that in that occasion he was also had a good time to blind him an eye. The legend narrates that to that point the Captain opened the jacket of his uniform and instead of the body of a man the bones of the skeleton appeared only. To the sight of that scene the two bridegrooms you get married, for the terrible fear, they died immediately.

A district that lives of bread and tourism as the same BBC underlines. "The problem in Naples, and of the Rione Sanità, is its history, it has too much, among Greek cemeteries, Roman ruins, medieval castles and Renaissance churches, much more than a city can afford to maintain." So it is important the contribution offered by the Foundation St. Gennaro and from so many present associations: from the Smmave, committed in the restoration of an abandoned church, that of Saint Maria della Misericordia of Vergini, to the Celanapoli, the association for 20 years working to bring in the light of the tombs of the nobility of the old Neapolis, finally not forget the VerginiSanità association, which keeps a fragment of Roman times, that is the Augusteo aqueduct . A mobilization to 360 degrees which has in fact delivered an effervescent vitality and a concrete possibility of growth and redemption of the entire Rione Sanità.

For more information about Rione Sanità events: antoniodecurtis.com/news

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EVENTS D O N ' T M I S S I T . . .

May of Monuments for info: fondoambiente.it

"Toto Genius" exhibition dedicated to Totò: from 12 April to 9 July 2017 at the Maschio Angioino, the Palazzo Reale and San Domenico Maggiore.

YoGaiola (Yoga lessons near the sea), info: areamarinaprotettagaiola.it

Napoli Comicon The international exhibition of comics at the Mostra d’Oltremare.

"Costume Feast" 22 and 23 April 2017 Museum of Capodimonte

Isle of Vivara (Procida) reopening on April 8, 2017

"The hidden secret" interactive video tour of Castel Nuovo, Maschio Angioino, until July 2017

Picasso in Capodimonte Capodimonte Museum from 8 April to 10 July 2017

Exhibition of Helmut Newton until June 18, 2017 At PAN Palazzo delle Arti Napoli.

Monumental complex of Villa Rufolo - Ravello open from April 1st 2017.

N.B. The first Sunday of every month, the entry in the museums is free. The museums in Naples are also open to Easter.

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HOW AND WHEN VISIT NAPLES....

The best way to visit Naples is to move in scooter or in subway with the line 1 (an occasion also to visit the "Stations of the art"). Main points are also the means of transport as the funicular, the line 2 of the Subway (to reach the zone Flegrea) and the buses that circulate with less frequency. Therefore, if you have some plans to respect (how departures or appointments) you can find information on the site of the ANM. An occasion not to be lost is to visit the city with the bus sightseeing, also for a great safety of whom travels. For the one who desires to move or to reach the coastline (even if the best way is to use the Subway of the Sea) with the auto fairies a lot of attention to the city traffic.

For the one who decides to use the auto in the city, there are some suggestions to consider respect the hours of great traffic or the events that get it: every day the exit Corso Malta in both the directions and the exit Vomero from the hours 9:00 to the 12:00 and from 15:30 to the 20:00 (except the Saturday and the Sunday); on the occasion of the football match Napoli, to avoid tangential exit and zone of Fuorigrotta. In the weekends traffic also on the waterfront of Mergellina where it is possible to rent a bike (the use of bicycles is dissuaded for moving from the low zones to the tall ones of the city because of strong inclinations).

For the one that wanted to reach the center from the airport, you can use the taxi and the bus "Alibus" the stop is almost to the outside of the airport of Capodichino, immediately after the station of the taxis.

For further information write us: info@discovernaples.eu

DO YOU SPEAK NEAPOLITAN?

HOUSE IN RIONE SANITA'.

“PARIARE”: 1) it refers to pleasant situations and of fun; 2) P. "on to someone" points out a sneer, es: " Mi stanno pariando addosso!"= "they are kidding me"; 3) "We are only "Pariando!" it also means to have a relationship/adventure of an night or also to kiss him or her once"; 4) "I have had lunch and now I want to Pariare" it is used today still by the elderly people as synonymous to digest.

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We define it: "Desire to start from our own city".

After a few years of exile for working demands, the

A special thanks to: Giovanna Giannone, Lisa Sicignano,

return in Naples for a real "melancholy" and the

Chiara Andrea Grillo, Pietro Scolorato, Ciro Cuozzo,

feeling to relive Naples and not to owe him of it

Mauro Cariello, and our readers.

more to separate: the meeting with the tourists often spaesati and unaware, the due drawbacks to the half of transport, the desire to collaborate and to give back dignity to his/her own job.

Thanks to our supporters on kickstarter.com (find

Discover Naples: a group of young girls they start to

our crowed-founding as Discover Naples magazine!)

tell what they daily live: beauty and chaos at the same time. Because Naples changes, but it is as if it were always the same one.

The project is structured according to a series of

Discover Naples Team

objectives: - To show photo and video of the most suggestive places in Naples.

- To signal the events and the dates of historical and partner-cultural interest.

- To tell you histories and interviews to know better the Neapolitan people, so special and only to the world.

- To inform you on the Neapolitan kitchen through photo, recipes and curiosity.

-

Contacts:

Discover Naples magazine is social!

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Hashtag #discovernaplesmagazine

for curiosity or advices hello@discovernaples.eu

"GOLFO DI NAPOLI", VIEW FROM CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE

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“… In Paris it sighs, in Naples it swallows; in Paris it swallows, in Naples it eats…”

M A R I E - H E N R I

B E Y L E

( S T E N D H A L )

# D I S C O V E R N A P L E S M A G A Z I N E