PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE
OCTOBER 24-30, 2018
JAMIE OLIVER
SAVOURING SPRING LAMB
SAM WOOD
SMARTER WAYS TO PARTY
REAL ESTATE MUST-SEE ADDRESSES
IN THE GOOD BOOKS THE JUICY BITS BEHIND AUSTR A LI A’S FOOD BIBLE EASTERN
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The editor’s desk
Reviewing restaurants for Good Food Guide would have to be one of the most highly sought-after jobs – it’s a role as coveted as a set of 2019 chef of the year Peter Gilmore’s best knives. Learning how Fairfax’s food bible is pulled together, the cuisine trends determined and which classics cannot be overlooked, makes for a fascinating peek into the mechanics of a year-long passion project for the editors and reviewers, which can be make or break for the chefs and restaurants operating with equal ardour. The Good Food Guide 2019 is on sale now. ●
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THE EDIT
OUR COVER \ Who or what it is xxx xxxx xxx. Photographed by Photographer.
What we love at Domain Review
MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review/ General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Emily Power Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale Picture editor \ Leigh Henningham Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial assistant \ Hailey Coules Managing editor \ Alice Stolz Chief marketing & editorial officer \ Melina Cruickshank Chief executive officer Domain Group \ Jason Pellegrino Real estate sales director \ Mitch Armstrong \ 0438 820 767 mitch.armstrong@domain.com.au
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REVIEW Published by Domain Group. A Fairfax Media business (ACN 141 396 741). All material is copyright. All significant errors will be corrected as quickly as possible. Distribution numbers, areas and coverage are estimates only.
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““I am Lana Wilkinson” … and I’m a fashion stylist I started in this business pretty much pre-social media. In the beginning, I wasn’t seen as a real stylist because my background is marketing and PR, but I’d been over to the US and saw an opportunity. I could see that there was a link between showing someone how to put an outfit together and then a company making a sale, but back then the idea of making a purchase on Instagram was unheard of. I became that conduit. Growing up, I was the girl who’d say to her mum, ‘I want play costumes’. I’d cut into mum’s old clothes and make them into dresses. Mum was very into fashion. She never walked out the door without being ‘done’, so I grew up that way too. Plus, my father is in dry-cleaning, so by the time I was 16 I could spot a stain like no one else and learnt about fabrics and what washes well. I studied public relations at RMIT, then a week after finishing that degree I got a job as a receptionist at Fox Footy Channel. I was always way more interested in what was going on in the green room. I’d wear certain things and the girls would ask where I got them, and they’d go off and buy them, which is where I first started to think, ‘Hang on a sec ...’ Next, I was working in fashion marketing at Westfield, which is where things really took off. In a corporate role you’ve got a budget, but often it doesn’t extend to stylists, so I’d do it and I loved it. But it was only when a girl I went to school with, who was the creative director of Mosman, said, ‘Lana, I notice on Facebook when you post outfits, people want to buy them. Do you have a blog?’ I didn’t have a one, but I had all these images of all the work that I’d done, so I sat up all night making a Tumblr blog. It’s still up there. I do like to have a bit of an edge to my outfits. I like structured clothing, and classic silhouettes. I’m very monochrome and neutral. I think that’s probably by virtue of my occupation, because I see so much colour. Right now, I’m loving a big puff sleeve – Dynasty vibes. If I could live in the ’80s and have drinks with Joan Collins, I’d be in heaven. ● Lana is the ambassador for Bumble Australia’s Birdcage marquee, Melbourne Cup Carnival
● Instagram: @lanawilkinson
As told to
M E G C R AW F O R D ●
Ph o t o
J U LIA N KI N G M A
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COVER STORY A peek beyond the kitchen pass at the creation of the restaurant authority – the Good Food Guide.
Tipping a hat
R E S TAU R A N T C R IT I C S R O S LY N G R U N DY, G E M I M A C O DY, A R DY N B E R N O T H & M Y F F Y R I G BY
KRISTOFFER PAULSEN
R
oslyn Grundy, Victorian editor of Fairfax Media’s Good Food Guide, used to laugh at the idea that restaurant kitchens pinned mug shots of food reviewers like her on their walls – until someone sent her the evidence. “I’ve since had a couple more examples sent to me, so, yes, it does happen,” she says. “But I’m not often pictured in print, and I like it that way, because I really do prefer to review anonymously.” Stakes are high for restaurants vying for a place in Australia’s unofficial food bible, where chef’s hats (awarded to restaurants scoring 15 out of 20 and more) could mean thousands in revenue. “Some restaurants have actually not survived [losing a hat] and yet others have bounced back better than ever,” says 2019 chef of the year, Peter Gilmore, whose Sydney restaurant Quay has won three hats, 17 years in a row.
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He says publications such as the guide are crucial because online and social media commentary is rife. “It’s still really important to have professional critics. It gives the public a guide to where restaurants are, and where they sit. And [it gives] the industry a benchmark to work towards, as well.” But, who makes all those decisions about hats, scores and awards? How do they get made, and where is dining headed? December is when national guide editor Myffy Rigby and her teams in Sydney and Melbourne start thinking seriously about the next edition. The biggest headache is the places that close or change hands right at the last minute, Rigby says. “In a way [the guide] is much like buying a computer – as soon as you’ve bought it, it’s out of date. It’s tough, but that’s why you need to look at the guide as a holistic reference point to the Australian dining industry.” Reviewing season starts in January, when reviewers (59 at last count – a mix of Fairfax journalists, long-time restaurant critics and other food enthusiasts) head out, booking under assumed names and nearly always a table for two (a friend makes for more fun and less suspicion). Each reviewer is equipped with a handbook, with
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“... if we’re saying, ‘Hang on, I’m not sure that’s worth a hat’ ... we’ll send someone back to revisit the restaurant” instructions on everything from how to order (look for indicative dishes rather than one-off specials) to what to do if their cover is blown (watch how surrounding tables are treated). Restaurants are marked out of 20: 10 for food, five for service, three for atmosphere and two for “X-factor”. In July, the last of 500-odd reviews are filed and edited by Rigby before the looming deadline in late July or early August. At only 160 words, the reviews must be snappy, useful, factual and entertaining. Cliches are not on (but the odd pun is tolerated), and Rigby has a growing (and amusing) bannedwords list, which includes “mouth-watering”, “crispy” (“crisp” is OK) and “funky” (“a room is not funky, but dry-roasted shrimp paste can be”, the list explains). July is also when the senior review team – Grundy, Gemima Cody and Ardyn Bernoth in Melbourne and Rigby, Callan Boys, Terry Durack and Jill Dupleix in Sydney – meets via video conference to thrash out any contentious scores.
ROSLYN GRUNDY
The process is designed to ensure restaurants are scored to a similar benchmark across the country. “And if there are any queries – if we’re saying, ‘Hang on, I’m not sure that’s worth a hat’, or we’re dropping a hat – we’ll send someone back to revisit the restaurant,” Grundy says. The reviews provide a snapshot of dining trends. Gemima Cody says money has been a key: serious dollars have been invested in some restaurants (Point Leo Estate), and many diners will pay for whole, stuffed crabs, caviar and expensive wagyu. There’s been an explosion of “peasant food” dishes such as cacio e pepe (pasta, cheese and pepper). Terry Durack has noticed chefs ageing whole fish (Saint Peter and Momofuku Seiobo), sea urchin (on toasties, house-made crumpets, pasta and more) and the further rise of vegan and vegetarian cooking (Smith and Daughters in Melbourne and Alibi in Sydney). ●
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JAMIE OLIVER \ CHEF ST YLE
Packed with flavour
T
his is a wonderful way to flavour and enjoy a leg of lamb. In the pictures you’ll see I cooked two the old- fashioned way over fire, and of course you’re welcome to do the same if you can, but I’ve written this recipe for roasting in a standard oven. Get some lovely local lamb from your butcher and get them to bone it, too. ●
Jamie Cooks Italy by Jamie Oliver is published by Penguin Random House © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited (2018 Jamie Cooks Italy), photography by David Loftus.
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Stuffed leg of lamb Mint, anchovies, bread, garlic & capers
and place in a food processor, then pour over the Prosecco, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of oil, finely grate in the lemon zest and squeeze in the juice. Season generously with sea salt and black pepper, then leave to soak for 10 minutes. Peel the garlic and roughly chop with the chilli, pick the mint leaves, and add to the processor with the anchovies and capers. Pulse into crumbs, then taste and season to perfection, if needed.
Serves 8-10 1 hour 45 minutes 150g stale rustic bread 50ml Prosecco Olive oil 1 lemon 4 cloves of garlic 1 dried red chilli 1 bunch of fresh mint (30g) 4 anchovy fillets in oil, from sustainable sources 1 tablespoon baby capers in brine 1 large butterflied leg of lamb, boned but shank bone left in (2.5kg) Method Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Tear the bread into rough 2cm chunks
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Lay the lamb leg on a board, skin side down. Massage all over with a pinch of salt and pepper, then spoon over the stuffing in an even layer. Roll up the leg meat to seal the
filling inside, then tie at regular intervals with six lengths of string to make sure the stuffing is secure. Place straight on to the bars of the oven, with a tray underneath to catch the juices. Roast for 1 hour 10 minutes, or until the lamb is golden, yet still blushing and pink in the middle (cook for a further 10 to 15 minutes if you prefer your lamb well done). Rest for 5 minutes, while you simmer the tray of drippings on a medium heat with a little water, stirring to pick up any nice sticky bits. Slice the lamb and spoon over the tray juices. Beautiful served with roast potatoes and seasonal veg – or I love it stuffed into a sandwich. ●
CALORIES 292kcal FAT 14.4g SAT FAT 4.7g PROTEIN 30.2g CARBS 10g SUGAR 0.6g SALT 1.2g FIBRE 0.4g
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SAM WOOD \ FITNESS
Avoiding spring party pitfalls
B
arbecues, cocktail parties, Friday night drinks, the spring racing carnival – there’s no denying that the social season is upon us. While it’s an awesome time of year, it can wreak havoc on your goals (and your waistline). The good news is you don’t have to completely sacrifice your social life and become a hermit if you want to see results. Here are a few simple ways you can stay on track and still enjoy yourself this silly season. MAKE YOURSELF ACCOUNTABLE \ Write down your goals for the social season, put them on the fridge, tell your friends, partner and family. When you tell those around you what you’re setting out to do, you’re more likely to stick to your guns (and politely pass up the party pies that are being passed around).
If you’re going to an event with a friend, ask them to help you stay on track. If you’re going solo, why not schedule in a workout with a friend for the next morning? You’re more likely to head home early and get some sleep if you know you’ve got to be up early for a workout. PICK YOUR POISON WISELY \ Did you know
that your favourite espresso martini has the same amount of calories as a Mars Bar? While they may taste delicious, cocktails are packed full of sugar and calories, so they definitely shouldn’t be your drink of choice when you’re trying to stay on track to reaching your goals. If you’re going to have a couple of drinks, stick to clear spirits with sparkling or mineral water and make sure you always stay hydrated by alternating each drink with some good old water.
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ourselves to our work and relationships. You’re also much less likely to hit snooze on your morning workout if you’re well rested and have had enough sleep. Give priority to getting enough ZZZs each night, and don’t be afraid to have a nap if you’ve had a late one. ASK YOURSELF IF IT’S WORTH IT \ At the end
of the day, this time of year is packed full of social events and, let’s be honest, by the end of it they can get pretty repetitive. Ask yourself, is it a truly special occasion or just another stock-standard night out? Some events are worth going all out and enjoying yourself, and others just simply aren’t worth your time. So, pick and choose wisely – and remember, as long as you enjoy yourself on a night out here and there and jump back into your healthy routine the next morning, there’s no need to worry about undoing all your hard work. ● ● 28bysamwood.com
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FEATURE HOUSE
DOWNLOAD THE DOMAIN APP SEE MORE IMAGES, FLOOR PLANS & PROPERTY DETAILS
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A comprehensive renovation that introduced some excellent ideas and created a stylish, contemporary interior has transformed this Vermont house into a family home that celebrates good living. Set in a cul de sac in one of Vermont’s peaceful green enclaves with tall trees and mature gardens, it is ideally located for a family. The single-level, weatherboard home on about 862 square metres is zoned with the bedrooms in one half and expansive living areas in the other. The main bedroom is a luxurious seven metres long and has built-in wardrobes and a smart en suite of warm, soft-brown tiles and white cabinetry. Two of the remaining bedrooms have built-in wardrobes. Living areas are open plan and full of light with pale timber flooring. An open fireplace is a feature in the casual living area, but this house is ready for summer and outdoor entertaining. The living area opens to decks on two sides. One is very spacious with a covered and open section and steps down to the neat garden with mature trees. The other is protected on three sides and would be a lovely place to relax with a book. The room that is now being used as a formal lounge has an en suite opening from it, so could easily become another bedroom or guest accommodation if required. The kitchen is on-trend white and well appointed. It has two Bosch ovens, a 900-millimetre gas cooktop, floor-toceiling pantry and plenty of bench space and storage. Ducted heating and split-system cooling have been
FINAL WORD
installed and there is a large laundry, as well as a double carport designed in a style sympathetic to the home. The family friendly location is close to Mitcham Station, Vermont Primary and Vermont Secondary College.
“EVERY INCH OF THIS PROPERTY HAS BEEN FINE TUNED FOR STYLISH AND RELAXED LIVING, WHERE TEXTUAL ELEMENTS BLEND BEAUTIFULLY WITH A PERFECTED FLOOR PLAN.” LOUISE CARRIGG – AGENT
Shopping is at nearby Eastland and Forest Hill Chase. Substantial parks and reserves, including the charmingly named Bellbird Dell Reserve, are located all through the neighbourhood. Morack and Ringwood public golf courses are about equal distance from the home and a variety of sports facilities are in the area. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au
Agent: Barry Plant, Louise Carrigg 0414 827 652 Price: $1.4 million-$1.5 million Sale by set date: Closes 6pm, November 8
Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing
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DONCASTER EAST \ 2/41 CLEMS ROAD 3
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Sophisticated, spacious and full of amenity, this home is all set for pleasurable family life with a lot of entertaining. Huge living areas open to a covered deck and a large and wellappointed kitchen does catering duty. Also on the ground floor are a study with built-in cabinetry, a fully fitted laundry and powder room. On the first floor, the main bedroom has an en suite and walk-in wardrobe and the remaining two bedrooms have built-in wardrobes and share the family bathroom. The house has a ducted vacuum system, a security alarm, ducted heating and airconditioners. It is close to schools, shopping, buses and transport. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON Agent: RT Edgar, Paul Ibrahim 0432 522 577 Price: $850,000-$900,000 Auction: Noon, October 27
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235 The Boulevard, Ivanhoe East Rare opportunity to purchase grand mansion on 1773sqm/19,000 sq ft land (approx) featuring beautifully landscaped gardens on iconic Boulevard. Grand formal lounge and dining rooms. Granite kitchen with Gaggenau appliances, adjoin informal dining area. Informal living flows to rear garden
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and swimming pool. Wet bar, sauna and bathroom to pool area. Four large bedrooms, 3 with ensuites. Master with walk-in robe and fully tiled Cararra marble en-suite. Large basement rumpus room. Features ducted gas heating, refrigerated a/c, garden sprinklers and internal lift.
4 Expressions of Interest Close Tuesday 30 October at 6pm Inspect By Appointment
Guide Contact
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From $198,490
On Display at Berwick Waters Estate
Cottlesloe Beach 28.04sq Think of your property as a blank canvas... Now imagine rebuilding the stunning Cottesloe Beach amongst the existing landscape of your street.
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MERIDIAN
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Hyde Avenue
Contact: 1300 773 643 www.premierbuilders.com.au
How will you be paying today? Cheap finance powered the booming property market. That’s ‘cheap and readily available’ finance. The property market is undergoing an adjustment as the Australia Prudential Regulation Authority (APRA) enforce lending regulations on the retail banks. The regulations are not necessarily harsh in and of themselves. The impact on the market is harsh given the lofty level prices rose to on cheap credit. According to consensus, we can all expect finance to remain cheap, just don’t expect it to be as easily and readily available. Cashed up, ready-to-buy buyers have been in abundance to the point that vendors did not even need to entertain conditional offers or cooling off periods. As the retail banks were forced to clamp down, firstly on investors and then home buyers, the abundance of cashed up buyers disappeared. Buyers need to be aware that ‘qualifying’ for a home loan on an internet quiz is not a loan approval, it’s called marketing. This marketing is simply a ‘lead generator’ for the respective financial institution or mortgage broker. If you are dealing with a mortgage broker on your finance, note that they are often
inherently optimistic about attaining finance. They have to be, that’s their job. A mortgage broker promising a buyer an unconditional loan offer is the equivalent of the real estate agent promising a seller a high price to get the listing. In reality, the crash rate is equal to the success rate. The banks have become slow and cautious. No amount of harassment from a mortgage broker is going to see the banks by-pass due diligence. Sellers need to be aware of non-binding offers. If you receive an appealing ‘offer subject to finance’ keep the bubbly on ice. There is still a long way to go! There is nothing more upsetting than celebrating a sale that ultimately crashes. Sellers should also acknowledge that buyers are acting in good faith and doing their best to secure finance. The credit squeeze is legitimate and definitely not a beat up. Peter O’Malley, author of “Inside Real Estate�
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Eltham 73 Zig Zag Road The Eltham Lifestyle You´ve Been Looking For A sealed 100m driveway winding through trees and native plantings delivers a fantastic introduction to this one owner home, which will reward you with the Eltham lifestyle you have been searching for. Set high on a 2850m2 allotment (approx.) to make the most of tree top views, you can breathe in the fresh air and take in the sounds of a variety of visiting birdlife while you plan for a fabulous future. With Eltham easily accessible, it offers the scope to move in and enjoy then when ready, introduce contemporary elements with a modern day makeover. Expressions of Interest: Offers Close by 5pm Monday 5th November (Unless Sold Prior)
Eltham | Greensborough | Doreen morrisonkleeman.com.au 20
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Expressions of Interest ESR $1,200,000 - $1,300,000 Inspect Wednesday a 5:30 - 6pm & Sat ay a urday at a 12:30 - 1pm ay Contact Graham Morrison 0417 101 997 Contact Rocco Montanaro 0412 379 171 Off f ice ff 9431 2444 Web 73zigzagrd.com
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DeckSeal specialize in the restoration & preservation of timber decks. Our services extend to timber screens, benches, boxes, cladding, doors, windows & also concrete cleaning & sealing.
Mary’s Little Lambs Mary’s LittleCENTRE Lambs EARLY LEARNING
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EARLY LEARNING CENTRE Family owned and operated since 1999
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20-22 Britannia Mall, MITCHAM
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HUGE PRIVATE COLLECTABLES AUCTION Sunday 28th October 2018 11:00 am start 327-329 Warrigal Road Burwood 3125 Viewin Times
25th Friday 26th Saturday 27th Sunday 28th
October October October October
10 am – 5 pm 10 am – 5 pm 10 am – 5 pm 9 am – 11am start
Enquires: 9808 1684 or 0402 961 015 Catalogue and photos available online at:
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PH: 9890 0945 | 10 Hamilton Street Mont Albert 3127 montaljewellers@bigpond.com
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POSITANO MODULAR 6 Seater Modular Sofa Set with Coffee Table Available in Charcoal or White Colour
NORWOOD & CUBA TEAK CHAIR Norwood Teak Table 8 Seater Dining Set
HOUSTON RECLINING 5 Seater Reclining Sofa Set with Table and Ottomans
244 Chesterville Road, Moorabbin VIC 3189
1300 296 505
Melbourne | Sydney | Brisbane | Sunshine Coast | www.rmkb.com.au *Scatter cushions and accessories shown are not included. *Terms and conditions apply, see in store for details.