PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE
MARCH 20-26, 2019
FOOD
WHY OSTRICH IS ON THE MENU
SCREEN TIME
WHEN IT’S GOOD TO BE BAD
LYNN BURMEISTER
THE I V F QU EEN W ITH A BA BY-M A K ING ST Y LE OF HER OW N
EASTERN
The editor’s desk
Come in close, put the kettle on – I have something to tell you. I’ve just turned 36 (single, no children) and as such, Dr Lynn Burmeister – on our cover – is as famous to me as a Jonas brother is to a 16-year-old. This glam doctor is changing the way women access fertility treatment, and is an intriguing personality, straight from the pages of a Candace Bushnell novel. She’s helped to rewrite the life stories of many Australian women and their families, including TV host Sonia Kruger, who fell pregnant with Dr Burmeister’s help at the age of 48. Journalist Kate Jones met the doctor for this week’s feature. ●
CREATIVE CANVAS \ The plush new Beautyblender
COSY AND CHIC \ Karen Millen dials up the
Liquid Whip Long Wear Foundation has a built-in
temperature on cool-weather dressing with an
palette that changes the cosmetics game, as did the
autumn/winter 2019 collection that is rich in leopard
original Beautyblender sponge. ● sephora.com.au
print, black, pink and red. ● karenmillen.com/au
THE EDIT What we love at Domain Review
OUR COVER \ Dr Lynn Burmeister, with a precious creation, at one of her clinics. Photograph by Julian Kingma.
MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Emily Power Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale Picture editor \ Leigh Henningham Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial assistant \ Hailey Coules NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA
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ALWAYS IN STYLE \ The Krystyna Campbell-Pretty
FLOATING \ Pixar’s short-film Partly Cloudy inspired
Fashion Gift exhibit at the NGV includes stunning and
this cute cumulus ceiling light for little ones. Its built-in
rare haute couture garments, thanks to the support of
speakers and varied settings, via Bluetooth, creates
the Melbourne philanthropist. ● ngv.vic.gov.au
ambiance and magic at a child’s bedtime. ● circu.net
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Dubbed an “IVF rockstar”, Melbourne’s Dr Lynn Burmeister is pioneering a fresh approach to fertility science.
D
r Lynn Burmeister may not be a household name, but in many households she’s something akin to a deity. The renowned IVF specialist has made countless dreams come true for couples and single women who feared they may never have children. Chances are you’ve heard or read about Dr Burmeister, such is the Melbourne doctor’s reputation, particularly after her acrimonious split with Monash IVF and her prolific workload. Ever since helping Channel Nine presenter Sonia Kruger give birth at age 49 and alternately being dubbed “the baby whisperer” and “fertility queen” by the media, and an “IVF rockstar” on online pregnancy forums, her popularity has soared. In person, Dr Burmeister is open, antiestablishment and at the helm of an IVF chain unlike any other in Melbourne. “I would love to be a big brand and that’s my mission,” she says. “I’m in control and so any decision that gets made in this company, I make. If something’s not working in the clinic, it’s not like I have to go through a whole line of processes. I can just go, ‘that’s not the way we should be doing it, let’s do it this way’ and make things more efficient.” The desire to do things her way is a goal Dr Burmeister has eyed off for years. Her headline-making departure from Monash IVF in 2017 came amid her allegations of stymying internal politics and bullying. It triggered a $12.3 million fall in revenue for the listed company and a court battle that resulted in a settlement. It also left Dr Burmeister with a massive $2.5 million legal bill. Monash aside, she says she is motivated to make IVF and egg-freezing cheaper and more accessible to a wider range of people. IVF costs in Australia vary widely – between $1870 and $9000 per cycle (or pregnancy attempt), according to consumer group Choice. At Dr Burmeister’s No.1 Fertility, a chain of three clinics at Collins Street in the CBD, Epworth Geelong and Epworth Richmond set up in the past year, patients pay $3200 in out-of-pocket expenses per cycle. At Love Fertility, a new low-cost clinic she plans to open in May at Frances Perry House, patients’ costs will be even lower – just $550 out of pocket per cycle. “I think I just feel sad for some people,” she says. “I feel this is coming from the heart. So I still want to provide good service to them, but make it affordable and just change the landscape that’s happening right now.” Business is booming for Dr Burmeister, who is soon to open another clinic at Jolimont this month. Called Emerald City, it will be more akin to a day spa than a typical medical space.
COVER STORY
The baby whisperer
Wo r d s
K AT E J O N E S ●
“It’s all going to be green because the whole theme behind it is that we’re making gems,” she explains. “We’re going to have a growing room and that’s going to be a spa-like centre for the ladies. So preand post-transfer they get to lie down and not rush out. We’re going to have on-site acupuncturists and maybe a masseuse there to give them a back rub. “I think it might make the process more enjoyable because it’s a pretty awful process.” While IVF remains the most common reason patients come through the clinics, more women are opting to put their eggs on ice. A survey by the Victorian Assisted Reproductive Treatment Authority found the most common reasons women decided to freeze their eggs were
Ph o t o
J U LIA N KI N G M A
not having a partner with whom to have children; having a partner who didn’t want to be a father; and wanting time to prepare financially, emotionally and socially for single parenthood. Although egg-freezing gives women the chance to avoid age-related infertility, success rates are slim – just 6 to 12 per cent per egg, Dr Burmeister says. Expectation management is a large part of any medical professional’s job, particularly in IVF. “I suppose people have high expectations, don’t they? Maybe I can’t meet them all the time, but most of the time I think I do a good job and I think patients walk away happy.” ● ● drlynnburmeister.com.au
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D
umplings practically form part of the food pyramid for your average Melburnian, but when was the last time you thought, “Man, I could really go doro wot tonight”? The fragrant Ethiopian stew made with berbere spice and clarified butter isn’t usually top of mind. Then again, Chinese people have lived in Victoria for about 110 years longer than Ethiopian migrants. And while Ethiopian food is becoming more commonplace, African food as a cuisine is still underrepresented – unless you count the popularity of the Moroccan Soup Bar in North Fitzroy. Besides, pigeonholing African food into a single continent is like squeezing Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese and Japanese cuisines – plus the rest – into one “Asian” label. Ethiopian cooks tend to stick to traditional cuisine for communities hungry for a taste of home. Wondimu Alemu opened Ras Dashen in Footscray in 2011, while also working full-time as an electrical engineer until 2014. He left Africa in 1994 to escape political turmoil and met and married his wife in a refugee camp. Once in Melbourne, she worked for a decade in the food department of the Western General Hospital. “She had a passion and also a very good
FOOD
Out of Africa Discover the vibrant cuisine that should be on every Melburnian’s lips. Wo r d s
traditional knowledge of our foods from her parents. I wanted to answer that, and I was also passionate about having my own business,” Alemu says. “My kids help us, and my sister, my daughter, my niece – we all work together.” It’s more difficult to find contemporary iterations of African cuisine, but there are exceptions. Polepole, an East African-inspired restaurant from Australians Dean and Jeanelle Mariani, came about more than four years ago after the couple fell in love with the country during their travels. At Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (on until March 24), they’re serving ostrich and crocodile in a
S O F IA L E VI N
glamping tent. “We are an introduction to the cuisine and a lot of people come to us for those African flavours,” Dean Mariani says. The red ostrich meat is similar to beef but has a gamey texture and underlying flavour. With one farm in Victoria, which exports most of its product, short supply means ostrich isn’t always on the menu. In the past four months, two cafes with African flair have opened in Melbourne’s southern suburbs. There’s Tennyson in Elwood arranging avocado on Zimbabwean cornbread and putting boerewors sausage in pasta. In St Kilda, Ostrich & The Egg is a South African mother-and-son operation, who upgraded from a
OPEN DAY Thursday, 28 March 1.30 – 6.30 pm
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Faith, Knowledge & Service 6
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POLEPOLE
koeksister (South African doughnut) food truck. You can still get the doughnuts, but now you can also eat vetkoek sliders, lamb bobotie and bunny chow. “In Melbourne there’s a lot of Ethiopian and East African food, but South African? There’s pretty much zero to nothing,” says co-owner Gary Andrews, whose mum does the cooking. “For us a lot of influences come from the Indo-Malay Polynesian area, and also through European and Dutch settlement. Four hundred years of amalgamation mean that South Africa has its own diverse food.” What has changed in Melbourne is who’s eating African-style food. At PolePole half of the customers are repeat visitors, with some Kenyan and Zimbabwean diners, too. At Ostrich & The Egg, they were “flooded” upon opening and had to add seats. And Alemu has noticed a shift at Ras Dashen over the past eight years. “It was more African people when I started because nobody knew about us and slowly, people tried our food and they wrote some reviews online. People started noticing us and they started coming in numbers,” he says. “They like our food.” Thank injera for the internet. ●
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LUKE DENNEHY \ SCREEN TIME
GREG NOALKES
T
Steven Bastoni ACTOR
8
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he great Australian actor Bud Tingwell once gave fellow thespian Steven Bastoni some advice: “He said that he’s never knocked back a role and that really stuck with me – maybe that’s a philosophy I need to adopt,” Bastoni says. “But there are things that I have passed on, and there are some things that I feel I don’t need to play.” Bastoni, 53, is one of Australia’s most accomplished actors, starting out in 1983 in the mini-series A Descant For Gossips and rarely being out of work since. However, unlike Tingwell, he has been careful of what jobs he agrees to, because he takes the work home with him. And sometimes that is not a good thing. “If you’re playing a psychopath or whatever, or a character that is pretty full on, it’s going to spill in to your every day life a little bit – I am mindful of that,” he says. Bastoni’s latest role is as fireman Tom Hicks, a likeable dad on the Channel 9 series Bad Mothers that was filmed around Melbourne late last year.
Former Home and Away star Jessica Toovey plays his wife Danielle Hicks. “I felt really comfortable working with Jess, she has been amazing,” Bastoni says. “I didn’t know much about her, so going into it without expectation it was a really pleasant surprise to find out that not only is she a great actress, but she is a lovely person.” Bastoni’s other passion is running the Peninsula Film Festival, which takes place in Rosebud every February. The event, which Bastoni launched in 2011, has been a hit and under his role of festival director, continues to flourish. “As it grows we need to put in more infrastructure, more security, more lighting and more fencing, more everything,” he says. “That requires more budget. “But we are so fortunate that we have got great grassroots support of the community and every year they keep turning up.” ● BAD MOTHERS \ Channel 9, Mondays at 9pm
Must watch I can’t stop watching
NEIGHBOURS \ 10 Peach
RUSSIAN DOLL \ Netflix
JOEL CREASEY
For the first time in a while Screen Time revisited
In this clever comedy series, Natasha Lyonne
Neighbours, the Aussie soap that is more than 30
(known for her role in Orange Is the New Black)
years old. Neighbours is just as relevant as it was in
plays software engineer Nadia Vulvokov, who
“I’m obsessed with Schitt’s Creek.
1988 when ratings were in the millions. Recently the
repeatedly dies, reliving her 36th birthday again
My boyfriend and I recently binged
character of Sonya, played by Eve Morey, died from
and again. Lyonne is an absolute standout as the
ovarian cancer. Death in soaps is not new. However,
brash Vulvokov, a typical New Yorker. The premise
the handling of Sonya’s death – sensitively without
of Russian Doll – the idea of reliving Vulvokov’s
good. Her character Moira is
sugar coating it – should be commended. Why the
death – is simple but sophisticated, giving the
bonkers and reminds me a scary
show is not on the main channel is surprising. ●
writers a lot to work with. ●
Panellist on Ten’s Show Me the Movie!
it and are loving season five. Catherine O’Hara is outrageously
amount of my mum.”
Experience Genazzano.
Genazzano invite you to experience what it means to be a Gen girl and the world of opportunities that a Genazzano education can provide. Secure your daughter’s place for Year 7 in 2020. Introducing bus services for the northern and eastern suburbs from April 2019. Open Morning Wednesday 27 March. Register at genazzano.vic.edu.au
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WEEKEND NOTES \ CREMORNE
Warehouse convert
J
ust north of the prominent thoroughfare of Chapel Street and south of the happening streets of Richmond is the small alcove of Cremorne. The little maze of warehouse conversions hides more than just trendy industrial offices. Today, instead of exploring the well-worn main road of Church Street leading into shopping central, I hop off tram route 8 and swerve straight into the brick and roller-door labyrinth of Cremorne. Coffee would be a normal morning start, but I welcome the day with an iced malted milk chocolate, the perfect prelude to exploration. As does the visit to the cafe itself, Hunted + Gathered. The chocolate store’s space is bright and decorated with sacks of cocoa beans, behind the red-brick wall outside.
LIT T L E C O M PA N Y DAY S PA
Wo r d s & p h o t o s
I’m then drawn to day spa Little Company – a well-curated retreat with bamboo chairs and greenery flourishes, offering treatments and specialty skin-care products – and fashion boutique Ryder, both around the corner. Stores here aren’t overtly on display – it’s more word-of-mouth style. As I continue to walk away from the main road, the recognisable Nylex sign comes into view. Along with reminders of the old Cremorne etching the exterior of aging buildings, including the ex-Rosella sauce factory, is vivid new street art that colours entire facades. Cremore qualifies for the titles of “Chapel Street’s edgier younger brother” and “Richmond’s breakout artist”. Or somewhere in between, just as it is on the map. ● B E C D I C KI N S O N
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Not to miss …
EAT \ COE & COE
SHOP \ RYDER
EXPLORE \ GLASSHAUS INSIDE
Just outside panini, juice and coffee spot
Sisters Penny and Georgie Brown, owners
The soft green exterior of Glasshaus Inside
Coe & Coe is a basketball hoop attached to a
of Ryder, design their Australian vintage-
offers hints to the leafy oasis within.
graffiti-covered wall, encouraging play while
inspired clothing collection at the back of their
Specialising in indoor flora, there’s everything
waiting for lunch, unwinding during a work
warehouse retail store. The spacious shop is
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12413569-RC12-19
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Dr. Tony Stubbs Eye Surgeon
30
% OFF
Dr. Tony Stubbs, Eye Surgeon, says that just about anyone can have their vision restored and be rid of their glasses for most of the time. And this is without the use of laser surgery. Dr Stubbs formerly at the Royal Victorian Eye Hospital who has worked with the Fred Hollows eye department at the Prince of Wales Hospital in Sydney, says he began his career through the inspiration of his father, Dr Maxwell Stubbs. “My father was a pioneer in cataract implant surgery from 1963! He has now passed away but some of his patients still come in for a check-up. Not only is this inspirational, it also demonstrates that good surgery outlasts the surgeon,” Dr Stubbs says. A specialist who helps people who have been advised they are unsuitable for laser surgery, Dr Stubbs is also committed to demonstrating that age, corneal distortion or astigmatism are no barriers to eliminating the need for glasses. One of my best moments was treating a 12-year-old girl who was struggling at school because of poor vision due to congenital cataracts even with the use of thick glasses. Now 10 years later, she still has 20/20 vision without glasses. That inspires me. “Seeing my patients’ bright smiles after surgery, as they stop squinting and can read without glasses, is definitely the best part of my job.” No referral is needed and no out-of-pocket expenses are incurred for an assessment to enable all options available to be considered.
CUSTOM MADE
12413197-MB12-19
conditions apply* Mention ad to claim discount
Dr Tony Stubbs’ Collins St Practice Coates Building, Suite 2, Level 2 20 Collins Street, Melbourne Victoria, 3000 Tel: +613 9650 8044 Fax: +613 9650 8099
To advertise on this page phone Sally on 5945 0601
The Williamstown Eye Centre 120 Ferguson Street Williamstown 3016 Victoria, Australia Tel: +613 9397 8989 Fax: +613 9397 8984
12366912-LN40-17
MB BS BSc(Hons)B Med Sc MS FRANZCO
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