Domain Review Melbourne Times by Domain Magazines

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

OCTOBER 24-30, 2018

JAMIE OLIVER

SAVOURING SPRING LAMB

SAM WOOD

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The editor’s desk

Reviewing restaurants for Good Food Guide would have to be one of the most highly sought-after jobs – it’s a role as coveted as a set of 2019 chef of the year Peter Gilmore’s best knives. Learning how Fairfax’s food bible is pulled together, the cuisine trends determined and which classics cannot be overlooked, makes for a fascinating peek into the mechanics of a year-long passion project for the editors and reviewers, which can be make or break for the chefs and restaurants operating with equal ardour. The Good Food Guide 2019 is on sale now. ●

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THE EDIT

OUR COVER \ Who or what it is xxx xxxx xxx. Photographed by Photographer.

What we love at Domain Review

MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review/ General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Emily Power Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale Picture editor \ Leigh Henningham Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial assistant \ Hailey Coules Managing editor \ Alice Stolz Chief marketing & editorial officer \ Melina Cruickshank Jason Pellegrino Real estate sales director \ Mitch Armstrong \ 0438 820 767 mitch.armstrong@domain.com.au Retail sales \ retailsales@sales.domain.com.au

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REVIEW Published by Domain Group. A Fairfax Media business (ACN 141 396 741). All material is copyright. All significant errors will be corrected as quickly as possible. Distribution numbers, areas and coverage are estimates only.

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COVER STORY A peek beyond the kitchen pass at the creation of the restaurant authority – the Good Food Guide.

R E S TAU R A N T C R IT I C S R O S LY N G R U N DY, G E M I M A C O DY, A R DY N B E R N O T H & M Y F F Y R I G BY

KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

oslyn Grundy, Victorian editor of Fairfax Media’s Good Food Guide, used to laugh at the idea that restaurant kitchens pinned mug shots of food reviewers like her on their walls – until someone sent her the evidence. “I’ve since had a couple more examples sent to me, so, yes, it does happen,” she says. “But I’m not often pictured in print, and I like it that way, because I really do prefer to review anonymously.” Stakes are high for restaurants vying for a place in Australia’s unofficial food bible, where chef’s hats (awarded to restaurants scoring 15 out of 20 and more) could mean thousands in revenue. “Some restaurants have actually not survived [losing a hat] and yet others have bounced back better than ever,” says 2019 chef of the year, Peter Gilmore, whose Sydney restaurant Quay has won three hats, 17 years in a row. He says publications such as the guide are crucial because online and social media commentary is rife. “It’s still really important to have professional critics. It gives the public a guide to where restaurants are, and where they sit. And [it gives] the industry a benchmark to work towards, as well.” But, who makes all those decisions about hats, scores and awards? How do they get made, and where is dining headed? December is when national guide editor Myffy Rigby and her teams in Sydney and Melbourne start thinking seriously about the next edition.

TIPPING A HAT The “online brain” (a Google spreadsheet) is updated, with restaurants that have opened, or closed, since the previous issue went to press. “That’s the biggest headache: the places that close or change hands right at the very last minute,” Rigby says. “In a way [the guide] is much like buying a computer – as soon as you’ve bought it, it’s out of date. It’s tough, but that’s why you need to look at the guide as a holistic reference point to the Australian dining industry.” Reviewing season starts in January, when reviewers (59 at last count – a mix of Fairfax journalists, long-time restaurant critics and other food enthusiasts) head out, booking under assumed names and nearly always a table for two (a friend makes for more fun and less suspicion). These days, smartphones allow them to take occasional discreet notes and images, but reviewing used to be more cloak and dagger, with notes scrawled furiously in toilet cubicles. Each reviewer is equipped with a handbook, with

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instructions on everything from how to order (look for indicative dishes rather than one-off specials) to what to do if their cover is blown (watch how surrounding tables are treated). Restaurants are marked out of 20: 10 for food, five for service, three for atmosphere and two for “X-factor”. In July, the last of 500-odd reviews are filed and edited by Rigby before the looming deadline in late July or early August. At only 160 words, the reviews must be snappy, useful, factual and entertaining. Cliches are not on (but the odd pun is tolerated), and Rigby has a growing (and amusing) bannedwords list, which includes “mouth-watering”, “crispy” (“crisp” is OK) and “funky” (“a room is not funky, but dry-roasted shrimp paste can be”, the list explains). July is also when the senior review team – Grundy, Gemima Cody and Ardyn Bernoth in Melbourne and Rigby, Callan Boys, Terry Durack and Jill Dupleix in Sydney – meets via video conference to thrash out any contentious scores,

particularly any that have changed significantly from previous years, along with finalising chef’s hats. Another meeting a few weeks later dishes out the awards. Meetings can last up to seven hours. The process is designed to ensure restaurants are scored to a similar benchmark across the country. “And if there are any queries – if we’re saying, ‘Hang on, I’m not sure that’s worth a hat’, or we’re dropping a hat – we’ll send someone back to revisit the restaurant,” Grundy says. Senior reviewers went interstate this year in a move designed to deploy fresh taste buds to the established Sydney and Melbourne dining scenes and to encourage consistency across the country. On top of her regular reviews, Age restaurant critic Gemima Cody ate her way through Tasmania, Byron Bay, Noosa and Brisbane, visiting 30 restaurants in 19 days. Such concentrated eating can take a toll on reviewers’ bodies, she says, only half-joking. At times she would “crawl in through

L AU R A , P O I N T L E O E S TAT E

“... if we’re saying, ‘Hang on, I’m not sure that’s worth a hat’ ... we’ll send someone back to ROSLYN GRUNDY, VICTORIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE EDITOR

the door, lie face down weeping in a corner, not wanting to talk to anyone”. The reviews provides a snapshot of dining trends. Cody says money has been a key: serious dollars have been invested in some restaurants (Point Leo Estate), and many diners will pay for whole, stuffed crabs, caviar and expensive wagyu. There’s been an explosion of “peasant food” dishes such as cacio e pepe (pasta, cheese and pepper). Terry Durack has noticed chefs ageing whole fish (Saint Peter and Momofuku Seiobo), sea urchin (on toasties, house-made crumpets, pasta and more) and the further rise of vegan and vegetarian cooking (Smith and Daughters in Melbourne and Alibi in Sydney). For now, though, the guide’s reviewers can rest until January swings around again. Or, even better, maybe it’s time to sign up to that jazz aerobics class they’ve always been talking about. ●

Wo r d s

PE T E R BA R R E T T

BROOK MITCHELL

revisit the restaurant”

KI M C H E E D U M PLI N G S F R O M A LI B I

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JAMIE OLIVER \ CHEF ST YLE

Packed with flavour

his is a wonderful way to flavour and enjoy a leg of lamb. In the pictures you’ll see I cooked two the old- fashioned way over fire, and of course you’re welcome to do the same if you can, but I’ve written this recipe for roasting in a standard oven. Get some lovely local lamb from your butcher and get them to bone it, too. ●

Jamie Cooks Italy by Jamie Oliver is published by Penguin Random House © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited (2018 Jamie Cooks Italy), photography by David Loftus.

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Stuffed leg of lamb Mint, anchovies, bread, garlic & capers

and place in a food processor, then pour over the Prosecco, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of oil, finely grate in the lemon zest and squeeze in the juice. Season generously with sea salt and black pepper, then leave to soak for 10 minutes. Peel the garlic and roughly chop with the chilli, pick the mint leaves, and add to the processor with the anchovies and capers. Pulse into crumbs, then taste and season to perfection, if needed.

Serves 8-10 1 hour 45 minutes 150g stale rustic bread 50ml Prosecco Olive oil 1 lemon 4 cloves of garlic 1 dried red chilli 1 bunch of fresh mint (30g) 4 anchovy fillets in oil, from sustainable sources 1 tablespoon baby capers in brine 1 large butterflied leg of lamb, boned but shank bone left in (2.5kg) Method Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Tear the bread into rough 2cm chunks

■

Lay the lamb leg on a board, skin side down. Massage all over with a pinch of salt and pepper, then spoon over the stuffing in an even layer. Roll up the leg meat to seal the

filling inside, then tie at regular intervals with six lengths of string to make sure the stuffing is secure. Place straight on to the bars of the oven, with a tray underneath to catch the juices. Roast for 1 hour 10 minutes, or until the lamb is golden, yet still blushing and pink in the middle (cook for a further 10 to 15 minutes if you prefer your lamb well done). Rest for 5 minutes, while you simmer the tray of drippings on a medium heat with a little water, stirring to pick up any nice sticky bits. Slice the lamb and spoon over the tray juices. Beautiful served with roast potatoes and seasonal veg – or I love it stuffed into a sandwich. ●

CALORIES 292kcal FAT 14.4g SAT FAT 4.7g PROTEIN 30.2g CARBS 10g SUGAR 0.6g SALT 1.2g FIBRE 0.4g

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SAM WOOD \ FITNESS

Avoiding spring party pitfalls

arbecues, cocktail parties, Friday night drinks, the spring racing carnival – there’s no denying that the social season is upon us. While it’s an awesome time of year, it can wreak havoc on your goals (and your waistline). The good news is you don’t have to completely sacrifice your social life and become a hermit if you want to see results. Here are a few simple ways you can stay on track and still enjoy yourself this silly season. MAKE YOURSELF ACCOUNTABLE \ Write down your goals for the social season, put them on the fridge, tell your friends, partner and family. When you tell those around you what you’re setting out to do, you’re more likely to stick to your guns (and politely pass up the party pies that are being passed around).

If you’re going to an event with a friend, ask them to help you stay on track. If you’re going solo, why not schedule in a workout with a friend for the next morning? You’re more likely to head home early and get some sleep if you know you’ve got to be up early for a workout. PICK YOUR POISON WISELY \ Did you know

that your favourite espresso martini has the same amount of calories as a Mars Bar? While they may taste delicious, cocktails are packed full of sugar and calories, so they definitely shouldn’t be your drink of choice when you’re trying to stay on track to reaching your goals. If you’re going to have a couple of drinks, stick to clear spirits with sparkling or mineral water and make sure you always stay hydrated by alternating each drink with some good old water.

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always tell my 28ers – never arrive to an event on an empty stomach. You’re way more likely to overdo it on the canapes if you’re absolutely starving – be sure to have a small, balanced meal or light protein snack before you go to avoid inhaling the first fried-food platter that comes your way. Nowadays, there are more and more healthy options at events and social gatherings, so, if you are planning on eating a bit there, my advice is to assess your options. Take a look at everything on offer (before you go for the first mini-burgers you see) and make an educated choice for something fresh and avoid the fried stuff.

ISTOCK

DON’T SKIMP ON SLEEP \ Too often we

forget to prioritise it, but sleep should never be underestimated when you’re trying to reach your health and fitness goals. We need adequate sleep to give us enough energy to tackle our busy lives and to bring the best of

ourselves to our work and relationships. You’re also much less likely to hit snooze on your morning workout if you’re well rested and have had enough sleep. Give priority to getting enough ZZZs each night, and don’t be afraid to have a nap if you’ve had a late one. ASK YOURSELF IF IT’S WORTH IT \ At the end

of the day, this time of year is packed full of social events and, let’s be honest, by the end of it they can get pretty repetitive. Ask yourself, is it a truly special occasion or just another stock-standard night out? Some events are worth going all out and enjoying yourself, and others just simply aren’t worth your time. So, pick and choose wisely – and remember, as long as you enjoy yourself on a night out here and there and jump back into your healthy routine the next morning, there’s no need to worry about undoing all your hard work. ● ● 28bysamwood.com

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FAIRFIELD \ 118 PERRY STREET 3

Fairfield is a gem of a suburb. It has excellent shopping in a village-style strip, fabulous parks and reserves, and innovative cafes and restaurants. And how many other Melbourne suburbs can boast their own boathouse, amphitheatre and 5.5-metre high wooden dog? FIDO – the Fairfield Industrial Dog Object is a hardwood sculpture of a canine that stands outside the station and watches over the shopping strip. Unfortunately, FIDO no longer chats with passersby. His voice gave out in 2006 and it seems uncertain if any of the other animatronics – tail wagging, ear wiggling and lighting up at night – still work. FIDO was a public art project completed in 2000 and the $50,000 price tag made the installation quite controversial. This charming home in Perry Street is close to all that is good about this peaceful suburb. Schools, kindergarten, day care facilities, and the Station Street shops, are all nearby and the house is just 8.8 kilometres from the city. It is set on about 446-square-metres of land with a deep garden at the rear. Traditional features and fretwork decorate the facade and have been retained in the original three bedrooms. Two of these rooms connect. The full-width, open-plan living, dining and kitchen area at the rear of the home is flooded with light from the glazed wall where doors open to the deck. Hardwood floors are laid in the hall and in the living area, while bedrooms are carpeted. The home is very well appointed. The white kitchen has stainless steel bench tops, stainless steel appliances and ample storage. The bathroom is well equipped with deep

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“A PICTURE PERFECT FAMILY HOME CLOSE TO CHILDCARE, KINDERGARTEN AND

Attic storage can be accessed via the hallway and there is a shed in the garden. The house has ducted heating,

SCHOOLS, FEATURES A BEAUTIFUL ESTABLISHED GARDEN AND IS GREAT VALUE IN THE FAIRFIELD MARKET.” BEV ADAM - AGENT

refrigerated cooling and a security alarm. New owners will be able to enjoy the summer on the river. Fairfield Boathouse, a gorgeous building that dates from 1908, serves breakfast, lunch and creamy, jammy Devonshire teas, which can be followed by a lazy paddle in a traditional English wooden boat. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Jellis Craig, Bev Adam 0422 396 477 Price: $1.6 million-$1.66 million Auction: 10am, October 27

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BRUNSWICK \ 96 UNION STREET 4

An antique farmhouse-style stove, resplendent in polished black with a copper chimney, brings the warmth of the past to the white kitchen and contemporary open-plan living area of this Victorian house. It is a spacious and light house with the classic floor plan of bedrooms opening off the hall and the large, north-facing living area at the rear. Dark timber floors are laid in the living area and hall and bedrooms have charcoal carpets. The house has heating and cooling and is walking distance to Royal Park, cafes, restaurants and Sydney Road shopping. Jewell Station and trams are nearby. â&#x2014;? BEVERLEY JOHANSON

Agent: Nelson Alexander, Peter Jones 0411 249 965 Price: $1.3 million-$1.4 million Auction: 11am, October 27

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kayburton.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

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FITZROY NORTH 5/137 McKean Street A prestigious pocket between the Edinburgh Gardens and Queens Parade reveals this exceptional two bedroom, two bathroom rear ground-floor apartment in the award-winning Denton Building. This fully secure apartment is spacious and stylish featuring impressive living and dining room, Miele stone kitchen, heating/cooling, brilliant courtyard garden, 2car basement parking and storeroom. Near cafĂŠs, shops, trams, Rushall station and the CBD.

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168B Separation Street, NORTHCOTE Brand new three bedroom three bathroom residence offers modern sophistication through two living domains, designer kitchen, entertainers deck, heating/cooling, alarm and double garage via ROW.

SALE BY SET DATE

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PRICE GUIDE $1,500,000-$1,600,000 Thursday 25/10 5.15-5.45pm Saturday 27/10 2.30-3pm INSPECT Stuart Mitchell 0410 456 963, Jessica Tumino 0434 500 040 CONTACT Rocco Siciliano 0408 348 032 Barry Plant Reservoir Inner City Group 9350 1155 16

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Thursday 7.15pm - 7.45pm Saturday 1.45pm - 2.15pm

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1300 849 146

www.goldstarrv.com.au

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Motoring section of Network Classifieds.

Romantics

1136326-RC22-14

9386 0206 SWA818BE

Phone - 1300 Escort 1300 372 678. 24hrs/7 days. swa4281be.

Garage Sales

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Tiling

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General Notices

section of Network Classifieds.

Over 30 Years Experience Specialising In: • Floor & Wall Tiles • Old & New Homes • Kitchen & Bathroom Renovation Free Measure & Quote.

0432 774 645

G6723428AA-dc29Apr

AARON’S TILING

DOM A IN REV IEW

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Relaxation. 305 Queensberry St, North Melbourne. 7 days. Telephone: 9077 7620.

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Television/Video/Audio

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new ladies

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32 Montefiore Street

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best service in town

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48 Davies Avenue, Sunshine North 9364 0770 SWA6566B

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section of Network Classifieds.

12393958-RA31-18

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03 9347 6000 (2hr meter parking out front)

Manhattan Terrace

Full Insurance All work Council approved 15 years guarantee All Council permits supplied 100% computer levelling Concrete pump used 15 years experience For a free quote and advice

18 ALBEMARLE STREET . WILLIAMSTOWN 3016 . T: 8383 3271 . SWA10707B WWW.THECHERRYTREEGARDEN.COM

Open 7 days

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9309 0700 - 0411 174 000

G6638324AA-dc18Feb

177646

1193032-LN31-15

DB-L-29449

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Reblocking/Underpinning

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CAFFYN PLUMBING PTY. LTD

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www.windows1.net.au

General Notices

PLUMBER

We accept these cards

9703 1530

Member HIA and MBA

LIC 33201

General Plumbing, Gas Fittings, Blocked Drains, Roofing, Hot & Cold, Water Renewals, House Renovations.

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1216352-LB06-16

12400545-LB38-19

www.craigsgas.com

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12349705-CG17-17

Phone: 9379 1733

Adult Services

12392086-RC27-18

12380373-CG10-18

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Windows

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We serve specialty coffee, and use beans roasted by 5 Senses.

(03) 9078 3734 | info@sweetevelyn.com.au Follow us on social media | Facebook / Instagram

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1237507-LB31-16

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Heritage Woven Wire & Gates are Powdercoated in 8 standard colours. They are also available in a galvanised finish. Gates come in 7 different pedestrian and driveway styles. G5868086AA-dc14Mar

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Vertue Coffee Roasters

8 Raffa Place, Carlton @vertuecoffee Specialty Coffee, Micro Roastery, All Day Brunch Open 7 days.

12403086-DJ44-18

Dr. Tony Stubbs Eye Surgeon MB BS BSc(Hons)B Med Sc MS FRANZCO

Dr. Tony Stubbs, Eye Surgeon, says that just about anyone can have their vision restored and be rid of their glasses for most of the time. And this is without the use of laser surgery. Dr Stubbs formerly at the Royal Victorian Eye Hospital who has worked with the Fred Hollows eye department at the Prince of Wales Hospital in Sydney, says he began his career through the inspiration of his father, Dr Maxwell Stubbs. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My father was a pioneer in cataract implant surgery from 1963! He has now passed away but some of his patients still come in for a check-up. Not only is this inspirational, it also demonstrates that good surgery outlasts the surgeon,â&#x20AC;? Dr Stubbs says. A specialist who helps people who have been advised they are unsuitable for laser surgery, Dr Stubbs is also committed to demonstrating that age, corneal distortion or astigmatism are no barriers to eliminating the need for glasses. One of my best moments was treating a 12-year-old girl who was struggling at school because of poor vision due to congenital cataracts even with the use of thick glasses. Now 10 years later, she still has 20/20 vision without glasses. That inspires me. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Seeing my patientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bright smiles after surgery, as they stop squinting and can read without glasses, is definitely the best part of my job.â&#x20AC;? No referral is needed and no out-of-pocket expenses are incurred for an assessment to enable all options available to be considered. Dr Tony Stubbsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Collins St Practice Coates Building, Suite 2, Level 2 20 Collins Street, Melbourne Victoria, 3000 Tel: +613 9650 8044 Fax: +613 9650 8099

To advertise on this page phone Tania on 5945 0636

The Williamstown Eye Centre 120 Ferguson Street Williamstown 3016 Victoria, Australia Tel: +613 9397 8989 Fax: +613 9397 8984

12366912-LN40-17

in Ormond. 12359024-DJ30-17

568 North Road Ormond Ph: 9578 8576 www.remezzopizza.com.au

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