Domain Review Stonnington & Boroondara - October 16, 2019 by Domain Magazines

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

OCTOBER 16-22, 2019

MASTER TRAINERS ON TRACK FOR FREEDMAN 2.0

RACE DAY STYLE

FASHION TO STAND OUT FROM THE FIELD

SOCIAL SCENE

FOOD & WINE FOR CUP DAY PARTIES

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

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STONNINGTON & BOROONDARA

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The editor’s desk

Welcome to our annual spring racing edition. No one covered the sport better than the late journalist Les Carlyon, who wrote about racing (a carry-over from our aristocratic roots) with a romanticism that is sometimes lost in this Instagram age – from the scallywags in the betting ring to the body language of the thoroughbreds. Through his prose, a handsome stallion with a neck arched like a carousel horse became a swashbuckling Errol Flynn-type character. Here, we capture that admiration, plus the fun of the party and tips on throwing a memorable Cup Day celebration at home. ●

FINAL TOUCH \ Statement earrings cap off a Fashions

PHOTO FINISH \ Threads by Melbourne fashion

on the Field-worthy ensemble, which is judged on a

designer Katie Pratt will be as hot as the Cup favourite

complete look. To balance this bold Ted Baker pair,

– her label Elliatt Collective features racecourse-ready,

team with a minimalist headpiece. ● tedbaker.com

feminine power suits. ● elliattcollective.com.au

THE EDIT SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

OUR COVER \ Kennedy Racing dawn trackwork at Pakenham. Photo by Julian Kingma.

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STONNINGTON & BOROONDARA

Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale

TOP HAT \ A wide-brim hat is a nod to spring racing

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carnival tradition – racing purists prefer it to fluffy

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feathers. This elegant lavender style from Sheike is a

the sole; supple men’s styles will go the distance at

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““I am Crystal Kimber” … and I’ve won Myer Fashions on the Field I first entered the junior Fashions on the Field

when I was 16, with an outfit I made in textile class. Both my mum and my grandma were dressmakers, so they were always sewing when I was a kid. When I was younger, Melbourne Cup was the big day on the calendar. One thing I always remembered watching on TV was the Fashions on the Field – I really dreamed of getting up there one day myself. In 2017, I took out the national final, which was so unexpected. It was probably one of my cheapest outfits, but definitely the most special. I inherited the skirt from my grandma, and she bought it at an opportunity shop about 30 years ago. I loved it as a kid because it was all these beautiful bright colours, and all the embroidery was made of very delicate raffia. When she passed away, she left me the skirt and I always said I wanted to make it into a dress because it was very long. When my mum and I were planning spring carnival outfits, it was sitting in mum’s sewing room, kind of half-made into a dress that we didn’t really know what to do with. We put an interesting top on it, and I wore a crown-meets-halo headpiece. I won a Lexus car, a massive Myer shopping spree and a Kennedy watch, which I still absolutely adore. This year I am the Myer Fashions on the Field ambassador, and I get to judge all the days. I think for me, sleeve detail is really on trend at the moment, and there are so many different ways you can wear a statement sleeve – a one-shoulder with a puffed sleeve, a long sleeve; there are lots of soft chiffons as well. Colour also plays a huge part, obviously outside of Derby Day. Expect to see a lot of ice blues and some pastels. Another trend that’s slowly coming through is high-shine PVC fabrics. A lot of designers, including Alex Perry, are slowly bringing through the PVC. Mum still makes some of my dresses. I do all the hand sewing and she does the machine work. Fashions on the Field is a fun addiction. I’ve made some really amazing friends over the years – it’s also about being able to catch up with people and sharing your mutual love of fashion. That’s been special over the years, and that’s what keeps me coming back. ● ● flemington.com.au/fotf

As told to

L A R I S SA H A M ●

Ph o t o

J U LIA N KI N G M A

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KENNEDY’S NEW DAWN COVER STORY An emerging thoroughbred racing stable

of dedicated horsemen aims to break from the field.

etail king James Kennedy is perched high up in a steward’s box, binoculars fixed squarely beneath his brow at Pakenham Racing Club. Beside him, renowned South African horse trainer Chesney van Zyl surveys a handful of thoroughbreds as they pace eagerly around the edges of the track. They trade quiet observations as most Melburnians are still waking up. There is one filly in particular showing potential. She doesn’t even have a name yet but is the most advanced of the eight runners Kennedy has adopted under his new Victorian stable. “It doesn’t mean she is the best,” he admits. “She is just the most likely to get running early. It’s all about timing. You just have to be patient.” The man who turned his late father’s watch company into an Australian business empire doesn’t just have his eye on the yearlings below.

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A ARON L ANGMAID ●

Ph o t o s

J U LIA N KI N G M A

He is ready to claim a stake in Australia’s multibillion-dollar racing industry. But like the freshly saddled two-year-olds that spring and jolt with energy in the morning light, Kennedy must learn to pace himself if he is to break from the pack. Kennedy Racing is pioneering what he hopes will become a revolutionary training movement. Where out-of-form runners are too often retired and forgotten, the 40-year-old Kennedy has plans to expand a stable with an ethos grounded on the teachings of famous “horse whisperer” Monty Roberts. It is a pain-free approach. Equine mindfulness, if you like. Kennedy sees the treatment of horses as key to his stable’s success. This passionate racing enthusiast – in slim-fit jeans and suede boots, no less – wants to be known for being more than just a naming rights sponsor. “The industry has fallen short,” Kennedy says. “That’s my belief. Animal welfare in general for me was incredibly important. “When you buy a race horse I think you take responsibility for the animal for its entire life. Race horses are not a commodity.” Together with Roberts, who in recent months has

“I was told once by a very successful man that you don’t really hit your straps in big business until you’re 60, so that’s encouraging.”

James Kennedy keeps a watchful eye on his horses, main; Kennedy Racing’s Pakenham stables, right.

been working closely with the Queen, Kennedy and trainer van Zyl share a vision for a stable capable of making a dent in group 1 fixtures. The team currently works from a modest facility at Pakenham but have plans to expand the operation under Roberts’ tutelage. An American horse behavioural expert who has been hailed for his non-violent training techniques, the 84-year-old believes the secret to a horse’s racing success is to identify the trigger for rogue behaviour then manage it. Kennedy understands that in an industry where thousands of livelihoods depend on the hooves tearing down a track on a carnival day, such a passive approach might be difficult to swallow for owners and trainers in need of tangible outcomes. But that is what he hopes might define him. “We are cruelty-free. I am not going to be a martyr for somebody who is trying to revolutionise the racing industry‚ that’s not what I am in this for.” In the meantime, Kennedy plans to continue

reinforcing the framework of a business his father Louis first started as a jewellery shop front in Sydney’s Double Bay. His naming rights deal with the Victoria Racing Club for Kennedy Oaks Day is halfway through its five-year contract. When asked about the future, he doesn’t see any reason why the relationship shouldn’t continue well beyond that. Meanwhile, Kennedy Luxury Group remains a match-day partner with the AFL for its annual fixtures in China. Kennedy is certain his father would be proud of what he’s achieved. “I think he would be impressed by the business that I have built and the roads I have taken in life,” he says. “I was told once by a very successful man that you don’t really hit your straps in big business until you’re 60, so that’s encouraging. “I have still have 20 years to go.” ● ● kennedyracing.com.au

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

The green shoots of a famous family

ne of racing’s most momentous images is the four Freedman brothers joined together to raise their arms in triumph after Makybe Diva won her third Melbourne Cup in 2005. The Freedmans got together for the photo in homage not only to the historic moment, but also to repeat what they had done similarly after winning four previous Melbourne Cups. It was an image of family and brotherhood. Although elder brother Lee Freedman was the managing director who, in the early days, held the trainer’s licence for the family that the press nicknamed the FBI – Freedman Brothers Incorporated – he was ably assisted by his brothers Richard, Anthony and Michael as a training team. Less than 10 years later, the brothers as a pack are no more. Staleness and circumstances split them, and thus ended a 20-year run for a racing juggernaut never before seen or since equalled. Apart from the five Melbourne Cups, the Freedmans won four Caulfield Cups, four Golden Slippers and two Cox Plates and combined for more than 130 group 1 wins. The Freedmans are now spread far and wide but all are still heavily involved in racing. Lee, now 63, “retired” a couple of times, but seems to have found a happy place as the leading trainer in Singapore. Richard, 57, who was the first to leave the Freedman nest, is in partnership with Michael, 51, who had successful training stints in Singapore, Sydney and Hong Kong before returning last year to Sydney. Lee’s long-time assistant Anthony, 55, remained on the Mornington Peninsula to train a relatively small team compared with the halcyon days of the 1990s. However, times are a-changing. There’s something of a rebirth of the Freedman empire as two sons of the “Fab Four” are emerging not only to revitalise the Freedman name in racing but also to revitalise their fathers. Anthony’s 23-year-old son, Sam, the youngest of three, was always the “one most likely” of the offspring of the four brothers to follow them into horse training. Continued p13

Hand on the reins: Will Freedman

DYNASTIES The Freedman empire, which ruled the Australian

and his father Richard at Rosehill.

turf for 20 years, is reborn through the next generation.

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DA N N Y P OW E R ●

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N I C WA L K E R

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

“That’s despite Dad doing everything to talk me out of it,” he says. Sam is the foreman at Anthony’s Pinecliff (Mount Eliza) and Flemington stables and the usually stoic Anthony admits that working with his son has instilled a new focus and a fresh approach – and the results for the stable have been quite astonishing in the past two years. The Freedman father and son will saddle up their first Melbourne Cup runner when Steel Prince steps out at Flemington. The circle is complete. Sam said he was always interested in horses, but his keenness for racing spiked when he was at Flemington to see Makybe Diva win the Cup in 2005. After finishing school and starting a university writing degree, he went to England to play cricket. While there he took a part-time job with trainer Roger Varian and he found that what started as something to do to fill in time turned into a full-time position over two years. He returned to Melbourne ready to join his father at Pinecliff, where he says the two often butt heads; at this stage, there is usually only one winner but the tide is turning as the young horseman gains more experience. “I really enjoy being with Dad while he is

JULIAN KINGMA

From p11

A N T H O N Y & SA M F R E E D M A N

“The opportunity of working with [son] Will was one of the reasons I returned to training.”

RICHARD FREEDMAN

inspecting yearlings at the sales. He has a great eye and has had tremendous success buying horses at the right price. I’ve learnt a lot from him about the type of horse he wants to buy,” Sam says. North of the border, Richard Freedman was stunned when his son Will, 28, after spending most of his time playing golf and singing in a band, tapped his father on the shoulder: “Dad, I want to be a horse trainer.” Richard laughs when asked what’s it like working with his son: “A lot like

The Freedman brothers – dubbed “the FBI” – after Makybe Diva won the 2005 Melbourne Cup.

JOHN WOUDSTRA

working with your brothers,” he says in an obvious reference to the sometime volatile existence of the four Freedman brothers matching wits under one roof. However, he admits that he’s enjoying working with and teaching his son, who is a late starter to the racing game. Will – named after William McLachlan, the Freedman brothers’ great-grandfather who was a champion rider in the early 20th century and won three Melbourne Cups – completed a media degree at Sydney University before deciding that working with horses was his vocation. Richard wasn’t as convinced, so he sent Will to work at Yarraman Park Stud in Scone with the strict instructions to “give him all the worst jobs” in the hope the experience would knock the idea out of his head. Despite given the task of feeding mares and foals in dry, dusty paddocks in 41-degree heat, Will loved every moment of it. The die was cast. “The opportunity of working with Will was one of the reasons I returned to training. We started with only nine horses at Hawkesbury, but now we have about 60 in work,” Richard says. Will completed a Darley Flying Start course, which is an international educational racing

program sponsored by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, although you get the feeling the hands-on education he gets from his father and uncle Michael is by far more beneficial. Will says he was always interested in horse racing, especially the family history, but was steered away from it by his family, conscious that there are better business opportunities in the wider world for a bright young man. “My light bulb moment came when I was picking up stones in paddocks in the heat at Yarraman Park. I realised while I was there that it was the animal that I loved, not so much the business,” he says. The learning curve has been swift. “Richard and I have robust discussions that only a father and son can have, and while he’s given me autonomy to run the barn, in the end there has got to be one decision-maker,” Will says. “I think working with me has given him a renewed interest in horse training.” Lee’s two daughters, media personality Emma and make-up artist Georgia, didn’t get “horsey” in the true sense but have forged successful careers on their own. Emma recently provided Lee with his first grandchild, a son, also named William. The Freedman name has a way to go yet in this racing game. ● ● freedman.com.au ● richardfreedman.com.au

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

A golden era of racing TRADITION Fifth-generation Melbourne jewellers are

entrusted with creating the Caulfield Cup trophy.

M E G A N H U S T WA IT E

he Stella Artois Caulfield Cup may be run and won in a matter of minutes, but its stunning trophy is lovingly crafted for months leading into the big race. Armadale institution Catanach’s Jewellers has been making the cup since 2006 and it truly is a team effort. Cup maker and silversmith David Russ leads the field who work on the trophy for more than six months. The Australian timber that forms the base is hand-turned and an engraver cuts out the handles then inscribes the cup which stands at 40 centimetres, with gold that weighs 1.5 kilograms, and spans 25 centimetres in width from handle to handle.

The Caulfield Cup is made from gold sheets rolled in Germany.

Catanach’s managing director and owner Amanda Catanach, the fifth generation of the family business established in 1874, says creating the Caulfield Cup is an art. “The cup is made out of solid ninecarat gold and the gold has to be rolled out in sheets and that’s done in Germany because there’s no rollers in Australia that can roll out the sheets to the specifics we need. That takes six to eight weeks,’’ she says. “One of the old masters who made the cup for many years taught our trophy maker David Russ how to make it. “The layers are put on a solid steel shape and the gold is spun around them, a little bit like spinning wool, and that forms the shape of the cup. It’s a historical cup and the shape doesn’t change, it’s been very much the same shape since the inception of the race in 1879. “There’s about 10 parts to the Caulfield Cup. The bowl, handles, three or four parts to the stem and the base and all of them are spun in different sections then hand soldered together with gold solder. Then the cup has to be polished and perfectly finished. It takes a long, long time but it’s a labour of love.” The family business is proud to play a pivotal role in one of the biggest days on the Australian racing calendar. “We love making the cup and all things Caulfield. My father started the relationship in the early 1970s

MELBOURNE RACING CLUB

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“The cup has to be polished and perfectly finished. It takes a long, long time but it’s a labour of love.” and we’ve been aligned ever since, sometimes in big ways – like we are now, we’re one of their major sponsors – and sometimes in small ways,’’ Catanach says. “It’s a beautiful piece and a thrill to be able to say we make one of the most iconic horse racing trophies in Australia.” The final touches to the Caulfield Cup were made on October 4. It will be safely stored until race day on October 19. “There’s a timber case we hand-make that it lives in. There’s a replica that does the rounds

because we’re quite particular and don’t want hands on the genuine cup,’’ Catanach says. Amanda’s great, great-grandfather George arrived in Melbourne from England during the gold rush to produce hand-crafted fine jewellery. Today, her daughter Olivia runs Catanach’s trophy division which crafts 2000 trophies each year. The business also gives its name to Catanach’s Jewellers Blue Sapphire Stakes Day, on October 16. ● ● catanachs.com.au

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

FASHION

the FORM GUIDE

Sashaying on the lawns at the Melbourne Cup Carnival calls for elegance with a dash of fun.

AAMI VICTORIA DERBY DAY 1. Carla Zampatti ‘Opposites Attract’ dress, $629 carlazampatti.com.au 2. Mimco ‘Calla’ bow headband, $99.95 mimco.com.au KENNEDY OAKS DAY 3. Lover ‘Papillon’ midi dress, $595 loverthelabel.com 4. Ford Millinery ‘Akira’ headband, $279.95 fordmillinery.com.au LEXUS MELBOURNE CUP DAY 5. Ginger & Smart ‘Illicit jumpsuit’, $649 gingerandsmart.com 6. Olga Berg ‘Luciana’ raffia fringe halo, $69.95 olgaberg.com SEPPELT WINES STAKES DAY 7. Thurley ‘Fortuna’ dress, $549 thurley.com.au 8. Forever New ‘Grace’ straw boater, $39.99 forevernew.com.au

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FASHION Get race-

ready with feel-good fabrics and finishes.

black,” Melbourne tailor Carl Nave says. “The stakes have been raised by some sharp dressers. It would be great to see guys exploring pattern and fabric; like a subtle Prince of Wales check or houndstooth in grey, or even a hopsack weave which makes for an interesting design.” On the feet, the style of shoe you wear to accompany your suit is just as important. “Derby Day is a traditional and staid affair, so something conservative always works,” says Charles Tutton, general manager of Double Monk, which carries exquisite shoes and accessories. “You can’t go wrong with a pair of classic black Oxfords.”

Dress code Carl Nave suiting for spring racing.

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

or the average guy, spring brings about many fresh and exciting events to revel in: you have the AFL grand final doing plenty for the sports fanatic, the Italian Film Festival for the hopeless romantics and, of course, the Melbourne Cup Carnival for the guy who loves the style synonymous with Flemington’s famed race days. With fashion deeply entrenched in the Melbourne Cup Carnival, there’s never been a better time to spruce up. But one perennial dilemma that lingers is the notorious race day dress codes: what do you wear to each given day? Is it important to adhere to the codes? To answer those questions and to dissect spring racing attire are four leading Melbourne menswear experts who know a thing or two about dressing for the occasion.

AAMI Victoria Derby Day The first day of the Melbourne Cup Carnival, Derby Day is a strict black and white dress code that will inspire a sea of monochromatic hues such as black, grey or white. “Tone it down for Derby Day; don’t do colour, keep bold patterns to a minimum and stay away from heavy

Lexus Melbourne Cup Day The race that stops the nation is also the day to turn heads in the fashion department (in a good way, that is). “Lighter tones, such as pastel blues and olive-greens work really well, as do beige, terracotta and rust colourways, which are great earthy tones,” says Chris Edwards, cofounder and managing director of Oscar Hunt Tailors. “It’s also a great opportunity to explore soft tailoring. You’ll find guys are opting for unstructured suiting in technical fabrics like linens and cottons simply because they feel and look great on.” Nami Nguyen, manager of luxury multibrand menswear store Masons, adds that it’s important not to overaccessorise for an effortless result.

Oscar Hunt ties and suit, top, expressing

“Pick key accessory pieces that will be the focus of your look and keep the rest as subtle details. A Shantung silk tie has a lovely texture to it but can be quite bold, so balance it out with a pocket ’chief that isn’t similar,” Nguyen says.

Kennedy Oaks Day Although traditionally a day for the ladies, Oaks Day doesn’t eliminate the need for guys to dress to impress; considered tonal looks will most certainly complement the mix of pastel pinks and blues worn by the ladies of the day. “Men should dress to complement rather than clash with or emulate the ladies,” Tutton says. “Basically, you should mix the principles of the first two days: think a French navy or a grey suit with a blue shirt and a floral tie. Tassel loafers or chestnut half-brogues to finish.” And the age-old debate: should guys wear socks with loafers? Tutton recommends keeping socks for the winter.

Seppelt Wines Stakes Day Regarded as a family day, Stakes Day is exceptionally more relaxed, calling for a smart-casual dress code. “Casual jackets in summer fabrics such as seersucker, linen or crepe cotton not only look great, they’re pieces should you want to consider to slightly elevate a casual look – perfect for Stakes Day,” Nguyen says. ●

spring style in fresh tones.

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J O S H B OZ I N

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Top nosh FOOD Dine like the A-listers

KARON PHOTOGRAPHY

with glam Birdcage dishes to inspire your next Cup party.

L E XU S M A R Q U E E D E LI G H T S

he spring racing carnival is upon us once more with its frocks, hats and conspicuous excess. When it comes to the food, the chefs catering Melbourne’s annual extravaganza know the only thing you should leave to chance has four legs and is running around the track. Whether in the Birdcage or hosting friends at home, spring racing culinary success is all about planning ahead – and with these tips from two leading marquees, you’ll be a leader in the field.

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J O BA R R E T T & M AT T S T O N E

M I C H E L L E BAT T E RS BY

Bumble marquee Bumble made its Birdcage debut at the Melbourne Cup Carnival last year, and for its repeat appearance in 2019 the female-first social connection platform is in full flight. Led by Michelle Battersby, Bumble has been the creative visionary for the menu development alongside chefs from the Merivale stable. Bumble guests over the four race days will graze on canapes such as steak tartare reimagined as a finger food, while desserts bring the bling with gold-brushed milk chocolate lollipops, glitter strawberries and strawberry and passion fruit marshmallows with a rose garnish. When it comes to transplanting the Birdcage pizzazz to the home, Battersby is a believer in going glam. “My tip is ... prep as much as you can before they arrive.” A grazing board of fruits, cheeses, different breads and lots of colour pops is not to be underestimated. Nor can a dessert that combines beauty with simplicity. “I’d take inspiration from our Bumble Birdcage marquee menu – and the Made by Merivale chefs assure me, not too tricky to make at home.” Try melting an assortment of chocolate and dip in your choice of fruit, nuts or marshmallows. ●

STEVEN WOODBURN

For Matt Stone and Jo Barrett, the chef partners of multi-awardwinning restaurant at Oakridge winery, this year is their first experience of spring racing. They learnt that luxury car maker Lexus were eager to embrace the locavore, ethical and sustainable principles that have made their Yarra Valley restaurant a leader in the national field. Inside the Landmark by Lexus marquee guests will be treated to a signature Oakridge dish of “today’s and yesterday’s bread” with fresh burrata and olives. The sourdough is made with flour hand-milled by Barrett each day; the old bread isn’t discarded but pulped into porridge and turned into a cracker. Those principles can also be extended to serving people at your own Cup Day soiree. “I love food being shared at home,” Stone says. “It’s good to serve everything at room temperature, so that when people arrive they just have this beautiful spread of food. “Things like peas and broad beans and asparagus are always great and they eat well at room temperature,” he says. “Just add fresh goats’ curd and preserved lemon to keep it nice and fresh and lively.” To get the most out of Cup Day celebrations at home, you don’t want to be tied to the kitchen. A failsafe move is slow-cooking a whole lamb shoulder to serve pulled, dressed with fresh herbs and olive oil.

SIMON SCHLUTER

Lexus marquee

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

The carnival canape

PE T E R R OW L A N D

or a sandwich – a humble sandwich – to be an integral part of the Melbourne Cup mythology is remarkable. Along with the socialites and stilettos, the champagne and the Cup itself, the crustless white triangles have become the expected livery of the spring racing carnival. These are no ordinary sandwiches. They’re Peter Rowland’s chicken sandwiches, and they’re about as upwardly mobile as any sandwich has a right to be. The caterer to Melbourne’s swankiest events and chicest soirees, Rowland began serving them when he launched his company in 1962. They made their Cup week debut in 1969, when the Nursery car park went from a place to park cars to party central. “It was wonderful. Lloyd Williams, Gerald Delaney, Susie Holt ... the bluebloods of Melbourne, all in their Chanel suits and dresses. They just looked magnificent on the grass and in the Birdcage,” recalls Rowland, now a sprightly 81. “They used to just have their cars with a couple of

GREG BRIGGS

FOOD How a chicken sandwich became an icon of racing celebrations. deckchairs out back and maybe a beach umbrella. Market umbrellas hadn’t even been invented yet. “Then it started to grow. Lloyd decided to put up a tent on one of his car spaces, then he got smart and bought three spaces and put up a bigger tent. Then, of course, everyone started to do it. They’d have chicken sandwiches and champagne and nothing else. What else do you want?” When the Nursery car park was cementing itself in the 1980s as the premiere place to be instead of trackside, Rowland and his regular collaborator, late florist to the stars Kevin O’Neill, got talking to Rick Jamieson, the name behind Harry the Hirer. “He said ‘I’ve got some great striped tents’, and Kevin and I said in unison, ‘Make them white, or don’t come’.” Rowland has loved the evolution of spring racing. He was there on Derby Day in 1965 when English model Jean Shrimpton scandalised Melbourne with her above-the-knee dress. “She looked magnificent, like Brigitte Bardot in the first scenes from And God Created Woman.” Two decades later he catered a formal sit-down meal in a tent for 80 of Christopher Skase and wife Pixie’s closest friends and associates. “We served duck a l’orange and chocolate souffles. The whole carnival just morphed into more and more.” Fuelling the spring racing carnival for 50 years takes some doing, but any ordinary sandwich would do well to have these beauties on their dreammanifestation vision board. White crustless

triangles filled with poached chicken breast (“no thigh, you can tell by the colour”) bound in mayo (“take whatever recipe you have and double the mayo”) with parsley and a pinch of salt. The bread is a white sandwich loaf from Tip-Top that soaks up the sauce without falling apart. You can add a pinch of paprika if you’re making them at home, too, but a non-negotiable is making sure the butter is spread right to the edges. Rowland doesn’t hobnob with clients. “People used to offer me a drink but now they know not to. I’m just focusing on the job at hand. I’m a caterer, I remember my place.” Client loyalty to him is repaid with his discretion. “My view of the world is that there’s no such thing as a scandal; there’s just getting caught.” ● ● peterrowland.com.au

Delicious bites in Peter Rowland’s spring racing canape box for order, including his chicken sandwich. LISA ATKINSON

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

Finest fare RECIPE It’s the time to indulge and this

tuna tartare is big on flavour and flair. By

his dish brings together flavours that I have loved since the mid-’80s, which is about the time I started playing around with Moroccan flavours and when I first made the Moroccan eggplant salad out of Robert Carrier’s brilliant cookbook, Taste of Morocco. To this day, it is one of my all-time favourites. I use it on a lot of different preparations, but it’s particularly good in this tartare – the heat of the harissa and the creamy cumin mayonnaise come together to make this dish a real killer. Make sure the eggplant is nicely golden otherwise it can taste a bit wishy-washy – it really needs that caramelisation to taste the best. This garnish is great with cooked fish, seared tuna or swordfish, and it even works well with chicken or barbecued lamb. ●

Eggplant salad Extra virgin olive oil, for shallow-frying 3 medium eggplant, sliced into 1cm rounds 1 handful flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 4 vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeds removed and diced 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Juice of 1 lemon

This is an edited extract from chef Neil Perry’s cookbook Rockpool Bar & Grill, Murdoch Books, $79.99.

Cumin mayonnaise (Makes 185 grams) 150ml olive oil ∏ tablespoon ground cumin 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, lemon juice, to taste

Heat 1cm of olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the eggplant and fry, in 3-4 batches, until dark brown all over. Remove with tongs and place in a bowl. ■ Add the parsley to the hot oil – be very careful as it will spit a fair bit. Reduce the heat to medium, add the tomato and cumin, season to taste with salt and cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring regularly so the cumin doesn’t catch on the base of the pan. Return the eggplant to the pan and cook for 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature to serve. ■

N E I L PE R RY

Heat 2∏ tablespoons of olive oil with the cumin in a small saucepan over low heat for five minutes to gently infuse. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely. Combine with the remaining olive oil. Place the egg yolk and mustard in a bowl. While whisking continuously, very slowly drizzle in the combined oils. As the emulsion starts to form, you can add the oil in a steady stream. Keep whisking while adding the oil, making sure the oil does not sit on the surface as this can cause the mayonnaise to split. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve immediately or refrigerate, with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface, for up to 1 week.

■

To serve 300g yellowfin tuna loin, diced 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Lemon juice, to taste Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ∏ cup eggplant salad 2 tablespoons cumin mayonnaise 4 chives, finely snipped Harissa oil, for drizzling Combine the tuna and olive oil and toss to coat. Season to taste with the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Place 1 heaped tablespoon of eggplant salad in the base of each bowl. Top with the tuna and a dollop of cumin mayonnaise. Garnish with the chives and drizzle over the harissa oil. Serve immediately. ●

■

● rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au

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here is no such thing as too much champagne. You may have read that on a T-shirt, and it’s completely true. But while champagne reliably brings the fun – and plenty of it – it has a serious side, too. “Champagne has always been my wild card,” says Marc Esteve, sommelier at hotel QT Melbourne. “If I have any doubts or hesitations about what to suggest to pair with food, I’ll often go in that direction. It’s one of those drinks that go with everything: breakfast, lunch and dinner.” He’s the right man to be in charge of the drinks project at the QT’s intimate new private dining room. A collaboration with storied champagne house Perrier-Jouët, the 20-seat room hiding coyly from the flagship Pascale restaurant is a modern manifestation of the belle epoque. Projections of the anemone flower motif designed by art nouveau luminary Emile Galle in 1902 bathe diners in a wash of pinks, greens and purples.

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Champagne tastes DRINK Learn to pair bubbly with food for a surprising pop.

A R T O F T H E WI L D BY PE R R I E R -J O U Ë T & Q T MELBOURNE HOTEL

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Just add a hyper-real garden, lushly planted around the periphery, and intensify it with mirrored surfaces and it’s little wonder this triangulation of art, food and champagne has been dubbed the “Art of the Wild”. The dining experience – which can be booked at the hotel – matches up to five courses with five champagnes, and these extremely special vintage drops certainly have their part to play. “To be honest, matching beef with champagne is challenging,” QT executive chef Andy Harmer says. “When I was first told about the project I had my doubts about whether it could be done, but we came up with a Sher wagyu porterhouse with tarragon emulsion and turnips pickled in beetroot juice, along with little pickled baby beets. It’s a prime example of a dish that needs to be matched with a vintage champagne.

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“We needed to embrace the greater complexity to match up to the intramuscular fat of the beef and the creamy emulsion of the sauce. The 2011 Belle Epoque champagne was perfect.” For the dessert course – pear mille feuille with salted caramel, sandalwood nut and leaves of the beguiling herb known as fruit salad sage – the Belle Epoque makes another appearance. This time it’s in the form of the 2006 Belle Epoque rosé, which is equal parts delicate, rich and voluptuous. The tasting sessions in preparation for the Art of the Wild menu sound like no great hardship. “There were five of us to get a range of palates,” Harmer says. “It took quite a lot of time but it was a really great process to go through. I became much more aware of the versatility of champagne, and really loved the chance of being much more fun and playful with it.”

“Champagne has always been my wild card. It’s one of those drinks that goes with everything: breakfast, lunch and dinner.”

MARC ESTEVE

Its versatility is on show through the meal, which begins with hiramasa kingfish with yuzu dashi, a light and delicate dish that marries with the nonvintage brut. “It has the nuttiness, creaminess and floral notes all going on at the same time and it’s the style of champagne that has really made PerrierJouët’s name,” Esteve says. Whether you choose four courses or five, the Art of the Wild is all about resetting the expectations of a dining age suffering a seen-it-all-before cynicism. It’s about pushing the boundaries of one of the great drinks, taking it for a spin through a world of possibility not imagined by people who simply see it as an aperitif. Not least, it’s a chance to enjoy the beauty of a room that’s a complete fantasia. “People who come into Pascale when there’s an event going on in the private dining room always stop to have a sticky-beak,” Harmer says. “It’s just beautiful at night; the kind of place you want to linger.” ● ● qthotelsandresorts.com/melbourne/

meetings-events/

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Raise a glass DRINK Tipples for a gathering in the

racecourse carpark or a soiree on home turf.

ome people believe the spring racing carnival is about horse racing. Those who aren’t kidding themselves understand that it’s more an excuse for treating yourself to long lunches and better-than-usual wine. It’s also an ideal opportunity to get yourself off the beaten track and add something new to the repertoire. Here are some suggestions from wineries, wine stores and restaurants to aid you in the task. Giddy-up! ●

Rosé, $29

MICHAEL HARDEN ISTOCK

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2018 Groiss Ried Hasenhaide

Austrian winemaker Ingrid Groiss is renowned for her skill with rosé. Co-owner of online wine store The Local Drop, Jagdev Singh says it’s “bright, with the most gentle fizz ... and screams spring with every sip. It’s made from a blend of handpicked pinot noir and Zweigelt.” Food match: Perfect with a lobster roll. ● thelocaldrop.com.au

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232 Whitehorse Road, VIC 3131

244 Chesterville Road, VIC 3189

03 9878 2144 03 9532 2270

rmkb.com.au

Bellenda Cosi E Col Fondo, $35

2019 La Violetta Spunk Nat, $37

Fine wine buyer at the Prince Wine Store Roscoe Halligan-Rose says “Bellenda stands head and shoulders above most of the mass-produced examples. The focus here is on traditionally made, bottle-fermented wines that express their regionality, the kind of wine you want to pop at the start of a long lunch or dinner.” Food match: Chicken sandwiches with lashings of mayonnaise.

This pet-nat from Western Australia is highly recommended by wine store Magnum + Queens. It is, says coowner Kirsten Dickie, “a super fun, party wine made with a blend of riesling and shiraz. It’s preservativefree. Gently sweet, crunchy texture and just the right amount of fizz.” Food match: Pairs well with salty snacks and fried vegetables. ● magnumandqueenswine.com

● princewinestore.com.au 2017 Oakridge 864 Chardonnay,

2017 Moreau Naudet Chablis, $65

$85

Oakridge Estate in the Yarra Valley is renowned for its chardonnay and this single block wine has the awards to prove it. It’s lean, elegant, complex, flinty chardonnay that compares favourably with premier and even grand cru burgundy. Food match: Jersey milk brie, preferably handmade from Oakridge chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barrett.

The Chablis Bar at Japanese restaurant Kisume is an excellent venue for an apres-race debrief. Wine guy Philip Rich has this chablis available by the glass or the bottle. “This saline and minerally chardonnay spent 20 months on lees, giving the wine texture and a depth of fruit you don’t always see at village chablis level.” Food match: Sushi or grilled fish.

● oakridgewines.com.au

● kisume.com.au

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620 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne | (03) 9349 2900 @livinginteriors_furniture www.livinginteriors.com.au | DOM A IN REV IEW

RECIPES Bar beverages for booze-free partygoers.

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Splash out on a mocktail Watermelon & mint mocktail From Hanoi Hannah Vol.II

Ingredients 60ml fresh salted watermelon juice (salt to taste) 15ml sugar syrup 15ml fresh lemon juice 4-5 mint leaves Ice Soda water Watermelon, mint, lemon (garnish)

Method In a cocktail shaker, put the salted watermelon juice, sugar syrup, lemon juice and mint leaves in and stir. Fill a tall glass with ice, pour over the mixture from the shaker and top up with soda water. Garnish with a slice of watermelon, a sprig of mint and a wheel of lemon. â&#x2014;? hanoihannah.com.au

Experience Genazzano.

In our 130th year of all girls Catholic education, we invite you to experience the opportunities that a Genazzano education can provide. Enrol now for Year 5 and 7 in 2021. Selected places at other year levels available. Open Morning Wednesday 23 October at 9.30am. Register at genazzano.vic.edu.au or contact our Registrar on 8862 1207.

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MICHAEL HARDEN

Fresca fresca mocktail

Virgin pina colada

From Bomba Tapas Bar

From Arbory Afloat

and Rooftop

Ingredients 60ml pineapple juice 30ml Coco Real coconut cream (Note: Coco Real is made specifically for cocktails. With a cooking style coconut cream, add some sugar syrup, approximately 15ml or to taste) 15ml lime or lemon juice 1 cup fresh pineapple pieces 1 full scoop of ice

Method For strawberry syrup, blitz strawberries with 500ml of sugar syrup until combined. Combine 30ml strawberry syrup with verjuice and soda water in a tall glass and stir. Fill with ice and garnish with fennel fronds. ● bombabar.com.au

SIMON SHIFF

Ingredients 30ml strawberry syrup (1 punnet strawberries, 500ml sugar syrup) 30ml verjuice 120ml soda water Ice Fennel fronds

Method Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend to “slushy” consistency. Pour into a tall glass and garnish with fresh pineapple and pineapple leaves. ● arboryafloat.com.au

G R A N D OP E N I NG THIS WEEKEND 41 Bank Street, South Melbourne Domain House is a masterful design statement in the heart of Melbourne’s prized Domain Precinct, overlooking the Royal Botanic Gardens and the city. Boasting carefully considered residences with panoramic views in a prestigious location, surrounded by elite private schools with unrivalled connectivity, including the brand new Anzac Station just 260m away. 1 B E D R O O M A PA R T M E N T S $ 4 6 0 , 0 0 0 2 B E D R O O M A PA R T M E N T S $ 6 0 4 , 0 0 0 3 B E D R O O M A PA R T M E N T S $ 1 , 2 4 8 , 0 0 0

L I V I N G A R E A , D E S I G N E R S C H E M E — A R T I ST I M P R E S S ION

V I S I T T H E O N S I T E D I S P L AY S U I T E

C A L L N OW

Saturday & Sunday 10am – 4pm 41 Bank Street, South Melbourne

Henry Burbury 1300 888 770 DomainHouseMelbourne.com.au

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WEEKEND NOTES

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Fl e m in g t o n

Firm favourite suburb

PE PPE R CA F E

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DAN SODERSTROM

f recent house prices are anything to go by, Flemington might just be Melbourne’s most underrated suburb. Just four kilometres north-west of the CBD, this suburb is among inner-city areas with the biggest year-on-year decline in property prices (according to the Domain House Price Report, March 2019) and at $880,000 has the lowest median house price of the bunch. Locals frequently describe Flemington as a hidden gem boasting a diverse population, hospitality and ample public transport. While many know the suburb for the racecourse alone, the heart of Flemington is Newmarket Plaza, next to the station and the area’s many restaurants. Single-fronted Victorian houses make up the

majority of properties on nearby tree-lined streets in a friendly community. Flemington residents include families with young children and teenagers. Iconic Flemington dining options are its quality Malaysian restaurants. The Laksa King restaurant is the largest and most popular, although plenty claim Chef Lagenda next door reigns superior. Lesser known is M Yong Tofu around the corner that serves a more authentic Malaysian laksa with a choice of noodles and additions. Racecourse Road and Pin Oak Crescent host other restaurants ranging from Vietnamese (Pho House), Chinese (I Love Dumplings), Somali (New Somali Kitchen and Somali Eats), Ethiopian (The Abyssinian) and modern Australian brunch cafes (Noughts & Crosses, Pepper, Wolf + Hound.) ●

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Not to miss …

BEAUTY \ PARKER

EAT \ WOLF + HOUND

SHOP \ FLEMINGTON FARMERS’ MARKET

Newly opened Parker is a contemporary cross

Husband and wife Matt and Ashley Byatt own

This is one of four weekly markets accredited

between a barber shop and a salon that prides

this friendly cafe. Despite its tiny kitchen,

by the Victorian Farmers’ Markets

itself on inclusivity and affordability. Instead

Wolf + Hound certainly punches above its

Association. Stallholders sell fresh produce,

of prices being broken down by gender or

weight with flavourful dishes, including hearty

baked goods, bread, meat, condiments and

services, clients are charged solely on time in

toasties and crumpet-style French toast, and

ready-to-eat meals on Sundays (9am to 1pm).

the chair. Prices start at 15 minutes for $22.50.

coffee by Inglewood Coffee Roasters.

68 Pin Oak Crescent

60 Pin Oak Crescent

Alexander Road

● parkerhairmelbourne.com

● instagram.com/wolfandhoundcafe

● flemingtonfarmersmarket.com.au

Mount Alexander College, 169-175 Mount

The ultimate in retirement living. No two apartments are the same at The Benson. They are as individual as the people who live in them.

Open to view Wednesdays 1-2pm

They all have something in common though: an appreciation of luxurious, functional design and a love of the Benson’s location—at the heart of the community they’ve lived in all their lives. Residences are available now from $925,000 to $2,150,000.

Visit thebensontoorak.com.au or telephone 1300 28 88 66. 585 Toorak Road Toorak.

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HOUSE OF THE WEEK HAWTHORN EAST \ 14 HARCOURT STREET 4

Luxuriously designed for a grandly impressive lifestyle, this contemporary Georgian-style home is situated in one Hawthorn East’s most prestigious locations. It offers about 2528 square metres of sumptuous, sophisticated living and resort-style relaxation. A circular drive, mature trees and formal gardens add gravitas to the entry. The deep porch leads to a grand marble double-height reception hall from which staircases rise and double doors open to the formal living room on the left and a study on the right. The living rooms are lavishly proportioned and occupy the entire ground floor. They comprise the formal lounge room with fireplace, a billiards room, dining area and a long family room with bespoke cabinetry. The white kitchen is exquisite and includes a fitted butler’s pantry with Gaggenau appliances. Benchtops are stone and among the premium appliances is an integrated Liebherr fridge-freezer. Living areas open to the outdoors via five double, timberframed doors and a series of terraces lead down through the garden. The first terrace is a sunny full-width verandah. Steps lead from there to the heated pool level with barbecue area and a pool house with change rooms and sauna. The next terrace is flanked by gardens and then it’s down to the north-south tennis court and more gardens. On the first floor, the main bedroom suite is palatial, both in scale and appointments. Running the length of the house, it has a fitted dressing room at the front and a hedonistic marble en suite with an oversized shower. The bedroom is vast and a parents’ retreat overlooks the rear garden. The remaining three bedrooms all have marble en suites and walk-in or built-in wardrobes. The lower ground floor has space for four cars and includes a media room, storage room or wine cellar, a fitted laundry, powder room and the plant room. The opulent home has hydronic floor heating, automatic gates, ducted vacuum system, video intercom and security alarm. It is close to Auburn Station, village shops and parks. Several prestigious schools are nearby. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Marshall White, Andrew Gibbons 0407 577 007 Price: $12 million-$13 million Expressions of interest: close 2pm, October 29