MEATY - May 2022 by Ecod Srl - casa editrice

MAY 2022

INGEGNERIA

Supplement to Ingegneria Alimentare Le Carni March 2022

ALIMENTARE le carni

MADE IN ITALY

Italian prosciutto: not just Parma and San Daniele PDO DOSSIER

Fresh stuffed pasta A WORD FROM THE EXPERT

Cured meats and the Mediterranean diet

FOCUS

IFFA 2022, latest technology and trends

Grinder TCA-10 The strong construction in stainless steel and a high reliable mechanics makes them adapt to an intensive use in the processing of meat, fat, cheese, vegetables, etc. Advanced technical and constructive solutions supported by the use of high quality cutting tools guarantee a clean cut of the product. Gear-box protected from water innltration thanks to drains of liquids resulting from washing. Pre-mixing bowl of 360 liters provided with a feeding arm whose rotation can be inverted together with the feeding worm for an eﬀective premixing eﬀect.

Omet Foodtech - Unbeatable Productivity • Hydraulic loader for 120 or 200 lts buggies. • Possibility to install an eﬃcient nerves and gristles separating device

Hall 8.0 - F44

Via Pancole 18 - 53036 Poggibonsi (SI) Italy - Tel. +39 0577 936693 - Fax +39 0577 9817777 info@omet-foodtech.it - www.omet-foodtech.it

NEW PIC 99 B

NEW STUFFING SYSTEM IN CASING AND NET W I T H A U T O M A T I C L O A D I N G B E LT A N D A U TO M AT I C T U B E S R OTAT I O N PIC99 is the best solution on the market for the production of long bar products - such as belly-bacon, pork neck, bresaola, hams, loins, roasts and, muscles in general in fibrous, collagen and plastic casing and elastic stockings to improve and increase yield in slicing.

I N OX M EC C A NICA S. R. L. we b . i noxmec c a n ic a .it e mail. inf o@ inoxm ecca n ica . it t e l. +390376608282 @ inoxme c c anica  

A HISTORY MORE THAN 155 YEARS LONG,

EXPERIENCE AND INNOVATION ALWAYS AHEAD Velati Automated Line From weighing to end product filling

Experience and reliability: Velati manufactures meat processing machines - such as meat cutters, grinders, grinder-breakers, mixers - since 1867. Automation and innovation: Velati’s automated lines are handled by weighing systems and recipe software capable of interfacing with Customers’ ERP. Global: Velati’s agents grant a worldwide coverage, Velati Customers all over the world have their operational needs fully satisfied.

Automated Line Sede Operativa: via Trento, 2 - 20067 Tribiano (Mi) IT - Tel. +39 02 9064717 - Fax +39 02 90630808 - info@velati.com - Part. IVA 11964710153 - Cod fisc. 02632720237- REA 1520566 - Capitale Sociale Euro 100.000,00 - Tribunale di Milano 172456 Sede Legale: via Turati, 7 - 20121 Milano IT www.velati.com

contents INGEGNERIA

ALIMENTARE le carni

MAY 2022

INGEGNERIA

ALIMENTARE le carni

Supplement to Ingegneria Alimentare Le Carni March 2022

MADE IN ITALY

Italian prosciutto: not just Parma and San Daniele PDO

FOCUS: IFFA 2022, latest technology and trends

COMPANY PROFILE: Tecnobrianza, a 40-year-long development

MARKETS & CONSUMPTIONS: Trends and new scenarios for the meat and ready-to-eat industry

MADE IN ITALY: Italian prosciutto: not just Parma and San Daniele PDO

MARKETS & CONSUMPTIONS: Alternative meats: fashion, trend or prospect?

DOSSIER: Fresh stuffed pasta - Regeneration of frozen food

A WORD FROM THE EXPERT: Cured meats and the Mediterranean diet - A relationship that has never been broken

DOSSIER

Fresh stuffed pasta A WORD FROM THE EXPERT

Cured meats and the Mediterranean diet

FOCUS

ECOD SRL: Hall 9.0 | Stand E45

14 – 19. 5. 2022

Frankfurt am Main Editor Luca Codato codato@ecod.it

nologie audate EMarina perCaccialanza redazione@ecod.it dotti vativi GSabrina Zampini ditorial staff

DU: 02.02.2022

IFFA 2022, latest technology and trends

grafica@ecod.it

era leader mondiale dal r il confezionamento Translations Monica Ceriani rne e la trasformazione oteine Printed by Eurgraf sas www.iffa.com visitatori@italy. messefrankfurt.com Tel. +39 02 8 80 77 81

Ecod Srl Unipersonale Editorial and Advertising Office: Via Don Riva 38 20028 San Vittore Olona (Milan, Italy) Tel. ++39 0331 518056 Fax ++39 0331 424780 info@ecod.it www.ecod.it

04_IFFA_Besucher_Ingegneria_alimentari_Le_Carni_163x230 • FOGRA 39 • CMYK • ek |

raphic design and layout

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focus

- iffa 2022

IFFA 2022, latest technology and trends BIOAGRO

Lyophillised starter cultures for high-quality sausages Bioagro s.r.l. aims at improving the quality of traditional agri-food products, only by relying on research and on the use of ferments that are naturally present in the products and isolated from them. This is a particularly flexible company, which is able to satisfy needs that are very specific of the fermented food sector, thanks to its ability to of select, produce and supply microbial starter cultures that are going to be used in high-quality products. The use of starter cultures guarantees a standardised bacterial supply which ensures the quick start of fermentation and an efficient monitoring against pathogenic and deteriorating species, while maintain-

ing high quality standard and greater hygienic safety. The range of ferments available can meet different needs in terms of organoleptic quality, process speed and temperatures, and health safety. Autochthonous starter cultures for mild fermentations: cultures suitable for mediumlong ageing that are successfully used in traditional sweet-tasting sausages, thanks to their low acidifying ability and their constant antagonistic activity against contaminants. High-speed acidifying starter cultures: mixtures for fermented meat products that require a very quick start of fermentation and

a quick decrease of pH, with a significant reduction of process times.

ELLER

Competent and experienced in food processing machines since 1960 Cutting-edge technology, excellent workmanship and a wide variety of products to be processed: these are the salient features of ELLER’s machines, such as pickle injectors, marina-

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tors/tumblers, cooking/smoking/roasting ovens, drying/maturing and aftermaturing units, tilting cooking kettles with stirrer. The company will be exhibiting at IFFA in Hall 8 Stand G77. Among the leading products that allow the customer to significantly increase productivity and quality, we highlight the VACOMAT marinators/tumblers that allow the processing of a wide variety of products such as cooked meat products, raw meat and poultry products, also with bones, fish, vegetables and much more. In addition to the classic massage and dry salting, depending on the version, other processes are also possible,

such as marinating, thawing, cooking and cooling. They guarantee to obtain high quality products in a short time whether cooked, raw, salted or marinated products. The design ensures a delicate treatment of the product. The processing allows an optimal and homogeneous penetration during the salting processes. In addition, minimal weight loss is achieved when the processes includes marinade or brine. All ELLER machines are equipped with remote control and prepared for Industry 4.0. Thanks to their extremely robust construction and the choice of branded components, a long

service life and low maintenance are guaranteed. The wide choice of versions, options and accessories allows them to be adapted to customer needs.

focus

- iffa 2022

EUROPRODOTTI

An Italian Company with an international vocation “The True Taste of Italy”, the true Italian taste. All our history is in this sentence, our Company Mission. It’s the simple things that make an idea great. In 1983, entrepreneur Maurizio Volturno founded the “Società Europrodotti” (Europrodotti Company) and here is where this adventure begins, a professional journey characterized by passion, dedication, utmost attention to the customer. Values that his son Marco also shares; he has been running the company since 2003 with new energy and more attention to continuous market development. Technological innovations, careful selection of raw materials, quality production, are priorities that Marco shares on a daily basis with all his staff members, always involving them in new business strategies. It is with extreme enthusiasm that Marco has achieved his great dream: the new laboratory focused on Research and Development, Quality Control created with stateof-the-art equipment, unique and one of a kind.

Passion, constant commitment and product quality have brought Europrodotti the recognition of numerous quality certifications and it has become an international leader in the preparation of aromas and functional ingredients in the food industry, in particular sausages and meat products. We are partners with important Brands in the food industry. Today Europrodotti has no doubt a leading role in all the main markets, in Italy and in Europe, in Asian countries, in North and South America, in Australia and in Africa. “Our customers are always the center of our attention”. We are always ready to offer new solutions and to accept challenges regarding changes to achieve long-range and ambitious goals. Europrodotti is a consolidated company, located in the heart of Brianza, where a Team of over 40 employees works. It has an area of 10,000 square meters divided into two distinct units. The administrative headquarters, offices, laboratory,

pilot plant and the production line are in Concorezzo. Not far away, in Burago di Molgora, is where all the logistics management is located. We are dynamic in tackling and meeting with competence all the needs of the market. We have an accurate organization in managing all production processes in the best way possible. We always look for constant technological innovations in the Research and Development phases and in all production and logistics phases. We aim to have motivated collaborators who have constant training. These are the characteristics of Europrodotti, active for over 39 years in the production of flavourings and functional ingredients in the food industry. An Italian Company with an international vocation.

FRIGOMECCANICA

INOX MECCANICA

Clean rooms

Techonological innovation for food processing

The Clean Rooms are conditioning plants that control filtration, temperature, relative humidity and overpressure of air in the room, to guarantee extended shelf-life of products. Air sterilization systems like UVC and photocatalytic lamps are compatible with Clean Rooms. Optimal maintenance and power management of the plant is achieved through uninterrupted measurement of filter obstruction levels and implementation of automation systems based on the Industrial Internet of Things (IIoT). Frigomeccanica Spa designs and produces Clean Rooms from Classe ISO8 to ISO5, according to ISO 14644 regulations, with room temperature as low as 4°C and air flow up to 100.000 m³/h.

After having worked in the backstage for three intense years, Inox Meccanica returns to the limelight at IFFA, a stage full of rich opportunities. The 2022 edition represents a unique event, where our company is eager both to expose the spearheads of its technological innovation belonging to the food processing field, and to relate to the world using the most important customer contact; the face-to-face medium. Pavillon 8, Stand J60; these are the coordinates for a must-see stage. Beside an advanced and updated top-of-the-rangePIC 99B, exhibiting equipped with an automatic loading belt, an automatic tube changing system, and a 1100 mould, you’ll come across a BTS Tumbler equipped with a special oven for smoking process, a perfectioning Portioning machine, a Washers for, a salt and spices Spreader, a PIC Rete and a TN 700 matched by a CLP 1T Clipping machine. You can’t not dedicate a parenthesis on a productive innovation brought by a freshly patented smoking system. Warm woody notes are imparted directly inside our Tumbler to both cured and cooked products. To achieve this, our R&D department optimized a process which uses a friction generator, such mechanism can generate smoke at low temperature alternated with vacuum phases. Inox Meccanica is not just food processing but washing and sanification too; therefore, we chose to design the best solutions to sanitation pf all those tools involved in the production process. Such machines have strong transversal applications, just think of the meat production area, the cheese one, the pet-food one, the pharmaceutical one, and the cosmetic one. Don’t miss the chance to discover the exhibitiom of the innovative multiverse made in Inox Meccanica in Frankfurt.

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focus

- iffa 2022

METALQUIMIA

From tradition to disruption METALQUIMIA, the Spanish firm owned by the Lagares family, world leader in integral solutions and technology for the production of cooked, marinated, dry-cured and snack meat products, celebrates at IFFA 2022 its 50th Anniversary (19712021) introducing the latest advances in technology for the meat industry, which represent a true transformation of the way of processing protein in the world. The professionals who will visit the METALQUIMIA stand at the IFFA 2022 Fair will have the op-

MOVIMAX ZERO 5500

ROLLERPRESS tenderizer

AUVIPLUS 990 HP

portunity to see the future of meat industry: the most costeffective and sustainable production lines, energy efficient, totally digitized, with full 4.0 connectivity, with total traceability and control of operation, maximum hygiene and safety. Processing plants specially designed to obtain maximum profitability with total reduction of costs, contributing a great improvement in competitiveness and sustainability for the worldwide meat industry and representing one more step forward in industrial protein processing. METALQUIMIA’s team of meat technologists will also be present at IFFA to demonstrate a wide variety of first-class cooked, marinated, dry-cured, snack and alt-meat products,

which constitute an accurate representation of the latest consumer trends and the constant evolution that has taken place in the last few years in the worldwide meat industry. METALQUIMIA is presenting outstanding innovations at this year’s IFFA, including among others: • COOKED-E range for the sustainable process of cooked meat products • MOVIMAX ZERO 5500 meat injector • ROLLERPRESS tenderizer • injector AUVIPLUS 990 HP, the High-Precision 4.0 Spray Marinating line • independent drive double paddle mixer SMART MIXER • MQConnect System, which offers the global meat processor manufacturing plants with “limitless” connectivity • QDS ECO COMPACT©, a superb breakthrough in laminar flow dehydration • QDSBake©, a forced air convection cooking, baking and dehydrating new technology, all-in-one.

SMART MIXER

MQConnect System

QDS ECO COMPACT©

QDSBake©

VELATI

New solutions for high quality cured meat processing Since its establishment in 1867, innovation has been Velati’s most important tradition. Constantly developing its range – whose guidelines are productivity, safety and reliability – Velati follows its natural instinct, made of innovation of product and processes.

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To further improve its lines and its machines – granting its Customer an innovative system with top efficiency and productivity – Velati has developed new solutions that will be displayed at IFFA 2022 in Frankfurt, Germany, this May. New weighing systems will be introduced, integrated with inhouse Velati software solutions. Thus, an automated, integrated system is realized, making the weighing faster and even more precise. Weighing worms, weighing belts static or in motion, lifter devices with weighing cells constitute the whole

system, making recipes handling simpler and user-friendly, granting a constant and measurable quality. Velati will also make a preview of the new TMV grinder, with adjustable speed for both feeding worm and knives, without pneumatic clutch and invertercontrolled. New TMV combines traditional robustness, quality and efficiency with newer technologies, for a stronger integration in automated lines, a higher automation and flexibility. With the new TMV, Velati breaks one of the current technological limits, offering its Customers a

machine capable of processing meat not only for salami, but also for mortadella. Visit Velati booth in Hall 8 G58 at IFFA, and discover your new solution for high quality cured meat processing.

company profile

Tecnobrianza, a 40-year-long development

ecnobrianza turn forty, an important goal for the company based in Carate Brianza and leader in the production of tying machines and clipping machines for salami and meats, which has recently dealt with an important reorganization. The third generation is ready to face market challenges and makes the history of this family business even stronger. Mario Pirola, owner with his brother Armando, is proud of the goal they have reached but he says he is not satisfied yet; he is rather ready to prosecute the evolution of the company with rising grit and

determination: “The pandemic has influenced our sector and has changed our approach with reality, this is unquestionable. It’s important that we face the change by analyzing carefully every detail of production and relations: behind it, there is the way we work and meet market requests, it’s important that we continue to establish a serious and reliable relationship with our customers and suppliers. We have worked hard to build this relationship, and today we are proud to say that our market share has grown, and our turnover has climbed 30%. This was possible thanks also to the attentive business reorganization we have implemented in this period”. The years of the pandemic were the oc-

casion for a careful consideration of the market, of the prospects of the company and, Mario Pirola confirms, to deal with the development and growth of the company from a professional point of view, with passion and perseverance. We have realized life-long projects and accurately planned our future We have realized all these projects with the extension of our headquarters in Carate Brianza, which is now more operational and efficient. The working area was widened to 800 sq.mt. in 2020 and divided between warehouse and factory, with a strategic storage area; the technical area has been improved

to back up post-sale and customer care activities, which have always been in the center of attention at Tecnobrianza. We have integrated new labor force and specialized figures, engineers and technicians, to favor our research and development activities and design new products that will be launched on the market soon, especially in the packaging field. “We have spent many resources and energies – Mario Pirola states – this investment will enable us to face the future challenges with the right tools, to meet our customers’ needs, to provide complete and high-performance service and proudly follow the development of the business”. 

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markets & consumptions

Trends and new scenarios for the MEAT and ready-to-eat industry

FIGURE 1

EAT-TECH 2021 recent edition was the occasion to present data on production, processing and consumption dynamics

of fresh foods. The results of this study carried out in collaboration with Centro Study MECS focus on 2016-2023 timeframe, with final data until 2020 and forecasts for the years to come. The research analyses the fresh food department in its main segments: meat, fish and dairy products, a market that covers a volume of 937 billion euros. The meat sector plays a leading role in this context. This leadership is proved by volumes, 62% of total production, 76% referring to meat processing, in a market that is worth 700 billion euros on world scale. Among the target Countries of the research,

FIGURE 2

Germany, Spain and France lead the market of processed meat food, respectively with 38, 27 and 25 billion euros in value created by the processing industry.

Italy is fourth with 21,7 billion. 50% of the total processed production has registered 2.2% growth rate per year in the last five years, with a good share for fresh processed food. This trend has brought the market to a total value of 170 billion, even considering 1% decrease registered in 2020 (Figures 1). Technologies play an important role: 49.9 billion euros has been spent in food processing machinery and 15,3 billion in food packaging machinery (Figures 2). Finally, the sector covers 22.4% of the turnover with bovine and poultry meat machinery; this field is expected to grow at an average annual rate (CAGR) of 6.1%, for a total volume of 63.2 billion. 

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SNACKING, THE NEXT

· Total Connectivity 4.0: The Future of meat snacks today · Production of High Added Value Meat Snacks: Jerky, Sticks, Crisps (chips) · Accelerated Production Time: From days to hours · Productivity at choice: 1 or 2 spiral options · Significant reduction in man-power, production and financing costs · Less Space Required: Lower investment in assets · Exponential R&D Process: Accelerated design of alt-meat, alt-protein and new snack products www.metalquimia.com

made in italy

Italian PROSCIUTTO: not just Parma and San Daniele PDO Giuseppe L. Pastori – Food Technologist

Italy is one of the Countries with the highest density of food and wine excellences: oil, cheese, wines or cured meat, many products are PDO, PGI, TGS certified, and more than five thousand agro-industrial products are registered in the list of foods (PAT) compiled by the Ministry of Agriculture and Food on regional basis, because each product tells the story and the traditions of a specific area

taly owns several leaderships in the world. It is recognized as the Country of Fine Arts that are integral part of its past; monuments and pieces of art are a sign of the civilizations that have come first and of our ancestors’ genius. And in the present, it’s a fashion leader, design leader and a motoring leader. Italy evokes a refined lifestyle that stands out from the mass, with its care for details and originality; we are appreciated for our ability to recognize beauty, for our joyful mood, our slow and natural pace of life. The Made in Italy is appreciated for the quality of its products, for well-done jobs; for the authenticity, the result of handcrafted and industrial jobs that are many and different, because we like feeling part of the land where we live. Who looks at Italy from outside, from abroad, can’t help loving our country and feeling moved every time he meets a part of it, either tourism or products: and for sure we are much more appreciated abroad than we, who live in Italy, may think. The art of doing things well expresses itself also in the production and preparation of food: in fact tourist flows towards Italy do

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Consorzio del Prosciutto Toscano

not restrict themself to vising monuments and churches, art galleries and museums, or at doing shopping in fashion shops. Our cuisine is widely appreciated. Italy is one of the countries with the highest density of food and wine excellences, and tourists love stopping and tasting the traditional foods of specific areas. From north to south, islands included, each region (even each territory in the same region, because Naples is not Caserta, and Bergamo is not Milan…) distinguishes itself for the identity of its cuisine and the products of its land. It can be oil, cheese, wine or cured meats (and many other specialities), our excellence is in many PDO, PGI, TGS recognized products, and in more than five thousand agro-industrial products registered in the list of foods (PAT) compiled by the Ministry of Agriculture and Food on a regional basis, because each product tells the story and the traditions of a specific area. The products of the excellent Italian art of cooking are genuine and enhanced by the Mediterranean Diet, that’s why they are appreciated all around the world, sometimes even imitated (with bad results) for the value they represent; they are one of the eco-

nomic mainstays of our economy. Despite frequent attempts to copy them, which have been named Italian sounding because they copy the name and the image – in order to repeat the quality of our original products (and give rise to many problems because they steal important market shares of our economy, and need legal actions to protect our original products), many consumers all around the world recognize, appreciate and valorize the real production Made in Italy, which satisfies even the most demanding customers. Being praised by the international community and being recognized as a reference for the food markets all around the world was not an easy thing, and it wouldn’t have been possible if we had counted only on our forces, if we hadn’t been protected by European laws and regulations that have introduced the PDO acronym (indicating the Protected Designation of Origin), a brand for legal safeguard. This brand (more than the other two, PGI and TGS) connects the product and its organoleptic and qualitative characteristics with the specific area where it is produced, because it recognizes the unique natural, environmental and human conditions that are responsible for the final quality of a certain speciality in that specific area. All European PDO and PGI products are an Consorzio del Prosciutto di Modena DOP

made in italy

excellence: hams, the most beloved cured meats ever because they meet all tastes, from the most simple to the most refined, fall within the product group “Meat-based products (cooked, pickled, smocked, etc)”, where Italy boasts 43 certified products (21 PDO and 22 PGI, which represent the highest number of certified animal products in the EU). Hams, together with cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano PDO and Grana Padano PDO, are unique because they fully express the taste of our country, more than wine and oil that feel the effects of the competition from other Countries (from France the former, from Spain the latter). There are products in Europe that are processed in a similar way (for example Spanish hams), but we can’t say they are like our products, even how they look, which confirms the uniqueness of our hams.

Every day, fresh cuts! PDO Italian ham

Within this product category there are 8 PDO hams, for which producers use the legs of pigs born and farmed in Italy, preservatives are not allowed (sodium and potassium nitrite and nitrate, which are normally used in the ageing of preserved meats), in accordance with the guidelines fixed by the relevant Consortia. Among the products protected by the European regulations we should also mention the 3 PGI products (Prosciutto Amatriciano, Prosciutto di Norcia, Prosciutto di Sauris), and other hams produced from Cinta Senese, in this case the meat itself is certified. The guidelines for the use of meats and preservatives are less strict for PGI products. With regard to raw materials, producers are allowed to use “legs from heavy adult pigs, boars and sows excluded, that come from crossed and selected white breed farms”, but there is no reference to respecting the rules established for heavy Italian pigs; in

Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma DOP

addition foreign pigs are allowed. There is even no obstacle to the use of preservatives, as it happens with PDO products. Every Italian PDO ham has special characteristics that make it different from the others, though the customers abroad sometimes confuse them and recognize only the hams that register the highest figures in term of value and exports, like Parma PDO and San Daniele PDO. Promoting their products in the marketing terms they believe more suitable is up to the Consortia. It is now clear to everybody that, in a global market with a strong competition from other Countries, sometimes with cheaper products, we can’t proceed in random order: we must act together to promote Italy in its whole. The bigger Consortia should drive the smaller ones to go beyond regionalism, and for this we need a common policy based on quality, beginning with raw material, respecting the genetical characteristics and the weight of pigs at slaughtering time, and on transparency towards consumers. For example, it’s a good thing that last year MIPAAF launched a communication campaign to support the 8 Italian PDO hams; the campaign addressed the consumers and was meant to favor informed and sustainable consumption of one of the excellences of Made in Italy [1]. The special features of Italian PDO hams begin with the selection of pig legs and continue in salting and ageing stages, but every processing stage is characterized by ancient and well-rooted traditions that have been handed down generation after generation, and that now have been perfected also in industrial production. On industrial

Consorzio di Tutela del Prosciutto Veneto Berico Euganeo DOP

level, we can exploit technological innovations and applications to adapt production guidelines to new climatic, environmental and market requirements, and guarantee that products continue to be successful. Producers’ associations are always alert on these evolutions and can modify the production guidelines to make them fit for the times, in full respect of traditions and inclinations of the gastronomic excellences.

WHAT DOES GIVE VALUE TO PDO PRODUCTS? EU quality policies are meant to protect the denomination of specific products to promote their unique characteristics that relate to their geographical origin and with traditional skills. Among product denominations relating to a “geographical indication” (GI), there are PDO, PGI and GST products. PDO is the acronym of “Protected Designation of Origin”, which is the first and most important system for the protection and enhancement of high-quality agricultural, food and wine products. PDO products are strongly tied with the place they come from. Each step of manufacturing, processing and preparation must be carried out in their specific region (and the raw materials must be guaranteed within a designated area). The GI system is ruled by specific European regulations [2 - 3], and the EU juridically guarantees protection against fakes and abuses within the European Community itself and in the third Countries that have signed a specific protection agreement: only the products that own specific characteristics can use the PDO brand or acronym. The GIs requested and filed in the Union’s register are available on eAmbrosia portal (the official data bank of EU’s GI books) [4]: the portal gives access to all the filed geographical indications, juridical protection tools and production guidelines included. The Guidelines is the document that specifies the entire production cycle, step by

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made in italy

Consorzio del Prosciutto di San Daniele

step, and the geographical area within which production must take place; it also provides the historical documents and its connection with the traditions of a specific geographical area which justify the application for and the concession of protection. The PDO product is certified and protected through the juridical acknowledgment of the member State and then of Europe, which issues specific guidelines; before this, the product must be carefully examined and approved by all the other member States without obstacles. Since the PDO system is the best of agrifood production about quality and taste, the consumer must be sure of receiving a safe product, produced from selected and carefully controlled raw materials, in traceable conditions.

ITALIAN HEAVY PIGS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ITALIAN PIG FARMING CHAIN FOR PDO DOP Italian ham is a high-quality product based on pigs that have been born, farmed and slaughtered in Italy. Although the pig farming sector is not huge in Italy, the specification of PDO products has enabled to grow a typically Italian pig, which is different from the rest of the world and is tied to the Mediterranean production, completely different from the North European pig: it’s the Italian heavy pig. The Large White, Landrace and Duroc Italian breeds have been selected from the Italian genealogical Book for heavy pigs [5] and have always been the reference for PDO production since the guidelines approved in Europe have been put into writing. This breed of pig is farmed in the regions of the so-called “integrated chain” (11 regions: Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, EmiliaRomagna, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Tuscany, Marche, Umbria, Lazio, Abruzzo and Molise, where there are Consortia that specify the characteristics), which provides premium quality raw material for the production of meats that can be consumed fresh or processed into cured meats or salami, following the long Italian tradition. The Italian heavy pig is farmed at least for 9 months, the final live weight is around 160+

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kg and the leg weighs around 126 kg before trimming. The meats produced from this selection of pigs have a balanced lean-part and fattypart ratio, and lose less water in the salting and ageing processes [6]. From raw material selection to salting, to ageing and branding, every step guarantees that Consortia’s specifications are respected. After all the recipe to produce DOP hams is simple: addition of salt and minimum 12 month ageing. The result is a uniform product with better technological performance and better organoleptic characteristics. The uniqueness of Italian products is now also confirmed by specific scientific studies. A group of researchers of Bologna University, in collaboration with other Italian and foreign authorities, has identified the single genes connected with the main characteristics that define premium quality hams, right in the genome of the Italian Duroc breed, which is widely used in crossbreeds for this type of production [7].

CHARACTERISTICS OF PDO ITALIAN HAMS The classes of ham recognized as PDO are 8, although there are product excellences also among PGI products as already mentioned, and among regional specialties that have a delimited distribution. In this article we will talk about PDO excellences in strict alphabetical order because there is no best product, there are rather many excellent products each with its peculiarities: Crudo di Cuneo PDO, Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO, Prosciutto di Modena PDO, Prosciutto di Parma PDO, Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO, Prosciutto Toscano PDO, Prosciutto Veneto Berico-Euganeo PDO and Vallée d’Aoste Jambon De Bosses PDO. 1. CRUDO DI CUNEO PDO Crudo di Cuneo was acknowledged PDO in 2009, the year of the European recognition. It’s produced in the province of Cuneo, Asti and in a few municipalities in province of Turin. The meat comes from the same areas. At the time of slaughter, pigs must be at least eight months of age; minimum ageing is 10 months from the beginning of the process. Salting takes place with dry or partially humidified salt. Salt can contain small amounts

of crushed black pepper and vinegar, which may be mixed with spices or spice extracts or natural antioxidants. Preservatives cannot be used. At the end of the ageing period, the weight must be between 7 and 10 kg, the colour uniform red when sliced. 2. PROSCIUTTO DI CARPEGNA PDO Prosciutto di Carpegna is processed and aged exclusively in Carpegna, a municipality in Marche region. The Consortium accepts pigs that have been born, farmed and slaughtered in Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Marche, and takes in the same specifications for raw material as for Parma and San Daniele. The pigs must be Italian heavy pigs and slaughtered when they are older than 10 months, the leg must weigh around 12 kg. Salting uses only dry ground sea salt, minimum ageing is 13 months, hams must not weigh less than 8 kg. The shape is curved, tending to flat. When sliced, the colour is salmon pink with suitable quantity of solid, rose-coloured white fat inside. 3. PROSCIUTTO DI MODENA PDO Prosciutto di Modena is not the less famous cousin of prosciutto di Parma, it originates in the same region but dates back to ancient times, probably as far as the Etruscan time or even farther. The production zone corresponds to the hills and valleys of Modena province, in a land that has always been inclined to pig farming. The meat comes exclusively from Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Marche, Umbria, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo and Molise regions. Pigs are slaughtered at 9 months at least, when they weigh 160 kg on average; usually pure sea salt is used for salting, which is repeated twice in 20 days without preservatives. The process lasts at least 14 months before applying the brand, often even longer. The weight is between 8

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and 10 kg at the end of the ageing process. The colour is bright red when sliced, the flavour is savoury but not salty. Prosciutto di Modena PDO is the basic ingredient of tortellini stuffing. 4. PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA PDO Prosciutto di Parma is one of the most representative products of Made in Italy. It’s the product with the highest production and export volumes. It is produced in the Province of Parma, south of the Emilia way and bordered by the River Enza and the Stirone stream. The pigs suitable for Parma PDO come from Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Molise, Umbria, Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzo and Lazio. They use only Italian breeds registered in the Italian Breeding Book of Origin, slaughtered when they are older than 9 months with an average weight of 160 kg. Salting uses exclusively sea salt. Minimum aging is 12 months, though usually 18 to 24 months, sometimes more, which makes meat more compact though soft and flavored. Only then the hams are ready for firebranding. The origins date back to the II century BC, when Cato the “Censor” first mentioned production.

The legs must weigh at least 12 kg, and the paw must be preserved. Salting times depend on weight. Traditionally, each ham rests in this condition for the same number of days as its weight in kilograms, then it is cleaned and pressed 24-48 hours before the subsequent processes: this phase gives the prosciutto its characteristic guitar shape. Ageing continues for at least 13 months. The slice is rosy-red in the lean part and

white on the fatty side. The flavor is delicate tending to sweet. 6. PROSCIUTTO TOSCANO PDO The production of PDO Tuscan Ham must be located in the territory of the Tuscan region, and uses pigs belonging to Italian Large White, Italian Landrace and Italian Duroc breeds, or other compatible breeds, which must have been born, farmed and

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5. PROSCIUTTO DI SAN DANIELE PDO Prosciutto di San Daniele DOP is the second best known product among Italian PDOs, though with more modest figures compared to Parma. In fact Prosciutto di San Daniele is produced only in the area of San Daniele del Friuli, a land that covers only 35 Km², in the province of Udine. The Consortium accepts pigs from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, EmiliaRomagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzo and Lazio.

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slaughtered in Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy, Marche, Umbria and Lazio. The thighs have the typical V-cut to reveal the lean part, subcutaneous fat is eliminated so that when completed, it protrudes no longer than 8 cm beyond the head of the femur. Legs are dry salted by using salt, pepper, aromas (typical aromas like garlic, rosemary, juniper berries and myrtle). Ageing must be at least 10 months long for hams that have a final weight of 7.5-8.5 kg, and 12 months for hams that weigh more than 8.5 kg. Its tasty flavor based on salt and aromas go perfectly with unsalted Tuscan bread. 7. PROSCIUTTO VENETO BERICO-EUGANEO PDO Prosciutto Veneto PDO uses pig thighs from Italian traditional breeds like Large White, Landrace and Duroc. The production area comprises 15 municipalities in the southern border of the provinces of Padua, Vicenza and Verona, in Veneto region. The pigs used for production must have been born, farmed and slaughtered in Veneto, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Lazio and Umbria territories; the animals suitable for production are tattooed within forty days from birth and fed with specific fodder. Slaughtering can’t take place before the pigs are 9 months old, when the animal weighs at least 150 kg. Salting takes place only with sea salt, then hams are lightly pressed and let dry naturally. The product is branded after minimum 12 month aging, which is protracted to 18/24 months to exalt flavor and taste. At the end of ageing the weight is between 8 and 11 kg. When sliced, meat is pink and lightly veined, which makes the slice tender and fragrant. 8.VALLÉE D’AOSTE JAMBON DE BOSSES PDO In spite of its name, Jambon de Bosses is truly Italian and is produced in Aosta Valley, in the area of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses, a municipality at approximately 1,600 meters above sea level. Fresh pig thighs come from Italian Large White, Landrace and Duroc breeds, farmed and slaughtered in Aosta Valley, Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto and Emilia-Romagna. The thighs are salted with addition of pepper grains or ground pepper, sage, rosemary, garlic, juniper, thyme, laurel. After resting, washing and drying, the

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exposed parts of meats and of the head of the femur are covered with roughly ground pepper to avoid oxidation. Ageing lasts at least 12 months, and can be prolonged to 30 months. Jambon de Bosses PDO is ready when it has a minimum weight of 7 kg, semi-pressed shape and paw. When sliced – hand sliced to be precise – the colour of the meat is wine red, with firm and bright fat. The flavor is delicate, slightly salted, with typical aromatic profile.

CONCLUSIONS Our PDOs are a strong point in the Italian economic agri-food sector but they must always be protected: of course the Consortia can do it themselves but nowadays we deal with complex relationships which involve fragile market equilibria, or we must convey several values, including sustainability [8] and animal well-being. We have to deal with market crisis outside Europe, between protectionism and attempts to counterfeit our products; on the other hand, in Europe, especially from the North Countries, there are simplistic pressures towards nutritional models like the Nutriscore, which favour complex foods at the expense of single-ingredient foods (or with a reduced ingredient list), like most of the DOPs, whose peculiarities are intrinsic in the product and can’t be changed as they respect precise procedural guidelines. Moreover our PDOs products, meat-based included, acquire value in the Mediterranean diet, which is acknowledged as balanced food regimen but is challenged every time

it is compared with elaborate products whose colour is more appealing than PDOs, or are penalized for a characteristic, for example fat or the content of salt, in fact the reference value of 100 g (as Nutriscore reports) does not represent the real portion. These days the consumption of meat is the object of an ever more critical attitude on consumers’ side, in terms of nutrition, ethics and environmental sustainability. We can’t convey just the value of a product connected with its land, we can’t minimize the obstacles and just defend it. We must put aside the dialogue of the traditional system and highlight new and unexpected potentialities. According to Claudio Peri, professor emeritus at University of Milan and popularizer of Food Science and Technologies, we should get organized and found a Community of Purpose of the land, meant to establish synergies between the meat production chain and other chains of production and service, from winemakers to museums (not just the food and wine question). It’s Professor Peri opinion that the economies of lands that are rich in traditions, natural and artistical beauties, handcraft jobs can be successfully revamped connecting these chains together on operational, service and communication levels. When we convey information to the consumer, we can’t work only towards the history and the tradition of a product, we must rely on a strategy where the quality of the product is recognized also in terms of sustainability and is identified in the chain of services that characterize a territory in its entirety. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Decreto delle politiche agricole, alimentari e forestali del 7 aprile 2020, recante «Istituzione del Fondo nazionale per la suinicoltura», adottato in attuazione dell’art. 11-bis del Decreto-legge 29 marzo 2019, n. 27, 2. Regolamento (UE) n. 1151/2012 del Parlamento europeo e del Consiglio, del 21 novembre 2012, sui regimi di qualità dei prodotti agricoli e alimentari (GU L 343 del 14.12.2012, pp. 1–29). 3. Regolamento (UE) 2017/625 del Parlamento europeo e del Consiglio, del 15 marzo 2017, relativo ai controlli ufficiali e alle altre attività ufficiali effettuati per garantire l’applicazione della legislazione sugli alimenti e sui mangimi, delle norme sulla salute e sul benessere degli animali, sulla sanità delle piante nonché sui prodotti fitosanitari, recante modifica dei regolamenti …, (UE) n. 1151/2012… (GU L 95 del 7.4.2017, pp. 1–142). 4. Commissione Europea – Registro delle indicazioni geografiche dell’UE. https:// ec.europa.eu/info/foodfarming-fisheries/food-safety-and-quality/certification/ quality-labels/geographical-indications-register/ 5. Gallo M. (2012). Suino pesante, con Anas razze italiane migliorate. Suinicoltura, n. 11 pp. 42-46. 6. Rossi A. (2015). Qualità della coscia e carcassa. Professione Suinicoltore, Luglio/Agosto 2015, pp. 12-14. 7. Bertolini F., Schiavo G., Galimberti G., Bovo S., D’Andrea M., Gallo M., Buttazzoni L., Rothschild M.F., Fontanesi L. (2018). Genome-wide association studies for seven production traits highlight genomic regions useful to dissect dry-cured ham quality and production traits in Duroc heavy pigs. Animal (2018), 12:9, pp. 1777–1784 8. Arfini F., De Roest K., Belletti G., Menozzi D. (2016). La sostenibilità del prosciutto crudo in Italia: tra filiere locali e globali. Agriregionieuropa, 12 (44). The authors are responsible for the opinions expressed in the articles and relevant bibliographies

markets & consumptions

ALTERNATIVE meats: fashion, trend or prospect? By our editorial staff

The world of meats and the market that moves around it are going through a deep transformation that derives from becoming aware of the difficulties connected with environment, land, economic and social sustainability.

t is clear that there is a trend to consume alternative products in place of meat and its derivatives, and the trend of consumption shows it clearly. Carlo Truzzo, quality manager of Metro Italia, has recently explained this topic during a seminar developed by AITA. Based on Ismea processings on ISTAT data, the consumption of bovine meat, pork and cured meats, poultry and sheep/goat meats per person in Italy dropped from 81.4 kg to 76.0 kg between 2010 and 2018. The consumption of bovine meats per person is the following: • 2010 – 23.7 kg • 2014 – 17.4 kg • 2018 – 17.2 kg. The picture is slightly different for the con-

sumption of pork and cured meats, which remains more or less stable, thanks maybe to the lower price of pork meat and to the

Consumption of pork and cured meats per person

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practicality of cured meat service and consumption. In this case the trend was: • 2010 – 38.4 kg • 2014 – 36.5 kg • 2018 – 38.2 kg. Increased consumption for poultry thanks to the competitive price of this meat: • 2010 – 18.0 kg • 2014 – 19.2 kg • 2018 – 19.7 kg. The outburst of fish products, from fishing to aquacultures, is a real surprise with consumption per person of: • 2010 – 20.9 kg • 2018 – 30.9 kg. Analysing these data and other researches carried out over the years, we can suppose that the consumption of meat in Europe and in the United States will reach its peak in 2025, then the consumption will start to decrease following the new trends. It is clear that we will have to change our food habits and food production methods to avoid malnutrition in a growing number of

markets & consumptions

suitable for persons who suffer from cepeople and to fight the effects of climate changes. liac disease Among the new trends, we can consider • cured meats with a lower content of fats, alternative products in place of meat – fake up to 30% sausages and burgers – and the so-called • take away trays: pre-sliced products are clean meat, meat that is grown in laboraperfect for ready-to-eat, light and easyto-digest consumption. tory from animal stem cells. Consumers are sensitive to food safety, senThe former meats, the vegetable ones, are more widespread and offer very interesting sory characteristics, nutritional characterissolutions also for food service. They have pros and cons: they do not impact the climate and the environment but do not meet all the nutritional requirements. The latter, laboratory-grown meats, are extremely expensive and in Italy haven’t entered the market yet. The challenge of the future lies in the development of products that will satisfy the world population’s demand for food, which is expected to reach 9 billion people in 2050. In fact, 11% of all meats, seafood, eggs and dairy products consumed all around the world are forecast to be of alternative origin by 2035. It is FAO opinion that the larger demand of animal proteins could be faced by resorting to insects: insects, fungi, algae (like spirulina microalgae and kelp red macroalgae) might become foods with a high cooking/smoking or nutritional value, produced roasting units under different conditions, Ellermatic indoor, cutting emissions and other footprints, and reducing tilting cooking kettles or even nullifying the biologiwith stirrer cal risks. Novomat/ST Among the current trends, ‘healthy’ cured meats show interesting consumption reOur products: sults. They can be divided in 4 macro groups: • cured meats with a low content of salt, characterised by low sodium levels and enhanced potassium levels • gluten free cured meats,

tics, and sustainability. But all these trends have some critical aspects that we should keep in mind: • consumers say they are interested in the nutritional aspect of food but, in truth, they do not read or do not understand the details printed on the packages • as a consequence, it is important to pay specific attention to nutritional claims,

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New trends. Alternative and synthetic “meats” : 11% of all meats, seafood, eggs and dairy products consumed all around the world will likely be of alternative origin by 2035. (Boston Consulting Group & Horizon Corporation) which should be easy to find and to understand • in addition, it’s important to verify that there is adequate correspondence between the message in the claim and what the consumer perceives and expects from the message • the nutritional values per portion (not mandatory) must specify the number of portions, otherwise the consumer can’t calculate the calorie count of some foods.

HI-FOOD EXPERIENCE During the seminar, the point of view of Massimo Ambanelli, AD Hi-food, a company established as a start-up that develops and produces natural ingredients with a high technological functionality, was illuminating. The ingredients selected from botanical sources all round the world are locally processed and combined in two production plants sited near Parma. It’s recent news that Hi-Food has been acquired by Investindustrial. Public opinion and experts are divided on whether meat substitutes should be like meat or not. In fact in the last years, the appearance, brand and formulation of recipes for products meant to replace meat, have developed from niche products for vegetarian and vegan consumers to products for traditional consumers. For this reason, the products must more

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and more frequently satisfy a broader range of expectations, and the demand for foods that are sustainable for our planet and our health add up to ideological reasons, animal well-being included. To continue, some consumers are only driven by the desire for something new, or imagine products that can somehow emulate the appearance and compactness of meat. The analyses show that: • 58% of consumers demand products with an appearance and a compactness that is similar to meat • 33% cares that ingredients are sustainable • 22% wishes larger availability of these products Following Covid-19 pandemic, the percentage of flexitarian consumers is increasing, as well as those who pay more attention to nutritional claims. In general: • 23% of global consumers are trying to limit the consumption of meat • 16% of global consumers are trying to follow a vegetal diet • 15% of global consumers are trying to limit the consumption of dairy products • 6% of global consumers are now following a vegetal/flexitarian diet. The industry of plant-based alternatives registered a jump in 2020 and is still increasing, as a recent market analysis by FMCG Guru reports. The fast-developing

sector is supported by a growing number of consumers who are going to eliminate or modify their consumption of meat and its derivatives. Health and environment sustainability appear to be the main reasons for this interest. We are in front of a flexitarian consumer: 27% of consumers all around the world declare they regularly use plantbased substitutes of meat, and 68% thinks it is indispensable to look for as natural products as possible on the label, with a high nutritional power. The industry offers a selection of proposals: from meat grown from meat cells to plant-based meats, which means meats made with vegetal proteins and genetically modified ingredients, or with vegetal proteins and other ingredients of vegetal origin, or even the so-called hybrid-meat, that is plant-based meat with addition of genuine meat. Let’s now see what plant-based meat means in detail: plant-based meats are produced combining leguminous or cereal cells with other ingredients by means of some innovative technologies. They differ from the vegetal substitutes now available on the market for their extraordinary similarity to animal meat, in terms of taste, compactness, appearance and cooking. The ingredients have vegetal origin but the product contains preservatives, thickeners, coloring substances, and genetically modified yeasts sometimes. We should investigate if these meat substitutes are able to satisfy the demand without compromising industrial animal farming and the equilibria of our planet. Hi-Food suggests a hybrid approach: mixed plant-based products, in order to restore the equilibrium through production technologies and methods that enable to obtain raw materials and ingredients that are useful for both conventional and vegetalbased foods. The key word is upcycle: the virtuous re-use of by-products. Innovation starts from the search for raw materials derived from recovered renewable vegetal sources. Hi-Food is now finishing a new production site where proteins and vegetal fibres will converge and will become the meeting point between the animal and the vegetal world. 

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Fresh stuffed PASTA Fresh pasta, stuffed pasta, successful products based on meat or cured meats as indispensable ingredients for traditional or innovative stuffing and dressing. Production line manufacturers and finished product manufacturers are always committed to study new technologies and applications

ccording to recent Doxa/ Unaitalia research, lasagna tops among Italians’ favourite first courses in celebration or Sunday meals, with Millennials in front; 24% prefer fresh stuffed egg pasta, tortellini, ravioli, etc. 1 Italian out of 2 prefers the traditional recipe. With regard to innovation, 2020 Doxa study reveals that Italians appreciate new products when these concern their emotion without affecting their certainties. Readyto-eat food is judged innovative by 37% of Italian, on the condition that it is good and healthy. 23% of Italian thinks that sustainability and new tastes are important, as a reevaluation

of ancient or forgotten raw materials. The manufacturers have a demanding task: they must study new technologies and analyse consumption trends to conquer/keep an important position in the market on the one hand; maintain a stable position, instil trust in the consumer by taking inspiration from tradition on the other. In this context a clear, widespread and comprehensible communication becomes indispensable.

Stuffed pasta is successful for several reasons, the main being: • it’s easy and quick to cook • there are many types and sizes • shelf life of 2 to 3 months. Italians are willing to pay a suitable price to taste fresh pasta, especially stuffed pasta: from 3-4 euros per kg to 20 euros per kg, with an average price around 10 euros per kg for mass market retailers.

Regeneration of frozen food Introduction to the validation of indications contained in the labels of frozen lasagna - case study Daniela Merigo, Elena Dalzini*, Elena Cosciani-Cunico, Paola Monastero, Alessandro Norton, Stefania Ducoli, Guido Finazzi, Marina-Nadia Losio - Food Control Department, Experimental Zooprophylactic Institute of Lombardy and Emilia Romagna, “Bruno Ubertini”, Brescia, Italy *Correspondent Author: elena.dalzini@izlser.it

INTRODUCTION onsumers’ demand for ready-to-eat products or frozen foods that can be consumed at home or on the job after regeneration in traditional or microwave oven has increased in the last years. The temperature required to guarantee the appetibility and the safety of foods depend on the food itself, on its composition, conservation, the previous processing it has undergone, and on the package that contains and protects it. It’s

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manufacturer’s duty to give the final consumer all the indications for proper regeneration, which in case of frozen foods include regeneration method (conventional oven or fanassisted oven, microwave, pan), time (usually minutes or seconds), and the minimum temperatures that must be reached at the end of the treatment (minimum temperature in the core of the product). These indications guarantee the regeneration and the consumption of a microbiologically safe product for the consumer.

It’s manufacturer’s responsibility to show that every possible measure has been adopted to pursue this goal. In fact, inadequate regeneration instructions might cause the product to be unsuitably warm, so less pleasing, or worse it may cause food poisoning (ECFF, 2006). Listeria monocyogenes is one of the most hightemperature-resistant pathogenic microorganisms (in vegetative form), and is even able to multiply at cold refrigeration temperatures.

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The destruction of this bacterium requires a suitable thermal process, the right combination of time and temperature, to eliminate or reduce the risk. The usually accepted thermal process to make food safe requires that the coldest part of the product is heated to 70°C for 2 minutes (conventional process), which is enough to reduce L. monocytogenes to 6 Log UFC/g (ECFF, 2006). In practice, the same reduction can be achieved by heating the product up to higher temperatures for shorter times or at lower temperatures for longer times, or with dynamic thermal treatments where the temperature changes during the process (Stringer and Metris, 2018). The manufacturer is requested to show that the regeneration indications on the label report a process of 70°C for 2 minutes. Predictive microbiology is particularly helpful in thermal treatment validation: this branch of microbiology supposes that bacteria’s growth, survival or death is conditioned by some environmental variables (temperature, pH, water activity, preservatives, bacterial flora, etc); if we

Figure 1 – Thermal profiles (blue lines) recorded during the tests in the core of the product kept 35 minutes in fan-assisted oven pre-heated to 180°C. The temperature limit of 70°C used to study equivalent processes is marked in red.

observe how bacteria react to these environmental factors, then we can predict how the

microorganisms will react to any condition in the environmental region where observations

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Figure 2 - Equivalent thermal processes (green triangles): the equivalent process at 70°C for 2 minutes has been reached in the product core after 31 minutes in fan-assisted oven at 180°C. The blue line indicates the ‘worst’ thermal profile detected in the core of a product that has been treated in fan-assisted oven at 180°C for 35 minutes. Overall, this process is equivalent to a treatment at 70 °C for 184 minutes.

have been made (Stringer and Metris, 2018). Meat ragout lasagne with béchamel are a typical dish of Italian tradition, they are very popular among the frozen ready-to-eat first courses sold in the supermarkets. This study was aimed at investigating the time-temperature profile recommended by the manufacturer to regenerate frozen lasagna and convert it in minutes equivalent to 70°C, and at studying the product safety for the final consumer.

At the end of the trials, the thermal profiles have been elaborated and the ‘worst’ thermal profile has been used to calculated the equivalent processes and the theoretical lethal effect of the thermal treatment by means of spreadsheets available online (NAMI Process Lethality Determination Spreadsheet). The study has used the parameters of thermal resistance of L. monocytogenes available in literature (Van Asselt and Zwietering, 2006).

INVESTIGATION MODALITY Regeneration directions indicated by frozen lasagna manufacturers have been tested in the Production Support Laboratory of the Experimental Zooprophylactic Institute of Lombardy and Emilia Romagna, simulating consumers’ actions. In the preliminary test, lasagna has been defrosted to insert a Data Logger (a button probe that is able to measure and reveal the temperature of food during the thermal process) in the coldest point of the product. At the end of this step, the product has been frozen to -20°C, which means normal sale conditions. The test has been caried out in a traditional fan-assisted oven pre-heated to 180°C for 35 minutes, and each measurement has been made in 2 different packages of frozen lasagna, in order to consider the variability of the product (heterogeneous food). The whole test has been repeated on three different days.

RESULTS Projecting, study and validation steps of regeneration indications supplied by the manufacturer, and the calculation of equivalent thermal processes are necessary to guarantee safe frozen ready-to-eat products. In this study, the thermal profiles obtained from simulation trials of domestic regeneration of frozen lasagna have been analysed and reported in Figure 1. All the detected profiles have shown that time and temperature limit of 2 minutes at 70°C in the product core has been reached, and product safety was guaranteed. The ‘worst’ thermal profile was detected during the test carried out on Day 2 in package 2. In this case the product core has reached the 70°C safety limit after 29 minutes of treatment (Figure 1). The profile has been analysed to calculate the equivalent thermal process (Figure 2) and

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the theoretical lethal effect. Even considering the ‘worst’ profile, the process equivalent to 70°C for 2 minutes is reached in as short as 31 minutes in the product core (Figure 2), with a theoretical lethal effect of L. monocytogenes equal to approximately 6 Log CUF/g. On the whole, the dynamic thermal profile of frozen lasagna regenerated in a fan-assisted oven preheated to 180°C for 35 minutes is equal to a conventional process at 70°C for 184 minutes (Figure 2). This knowledge enables the manufacturer to choose whether prolong or shorten the regeneration times suggested to the consumer, in order to guarantee better products, considering that product safety is guaranteed with over 31 minute long treatments. CONCLUSIONS From a microbiological point of view, cooking thermal treatments are today among the most widespread methods to guarantee the destruction or reduction of the main food pathogens in their vegetative state. Manufacturers shall nevertheless define and validate these treatments in order to provide a scientific proof of their effectiveness, to reduce eventual microbiological contaminations and guarantee food safety. In this sense, predictive microbiology can be a useful and quick tool to study and optimize a specific cooking process, in order to establish which times and temperatures are enough to reduce or eliminate a given microbiological risk. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY -

ECFF (2006). European Chilled Food Federation, Recommendations for the production of pre-packaged chilled foods. Available at: https://www.ecff.net/ wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ECFF_ Recommendations_2nd_ed_18_12_06. pdf. Ultimo accesso:20/01/2022 Van Asselt, E. D., and Zwietering, M. H. (2006). A systematic approach to determine global thermal inactivation parameters for various food pathogens. International Journal of Food Microbiology, 107(1), 73-82. Stringer, S. C., & Metris, A. (2018). Predicting bacterial behaviour in sous vide food. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 13, 117-128. NAMI Process Lethality Determination Spreadsheet. Available at: http://meatpoultryfoundation.org/content/pro

The authors are responsible for the opinions expressed in the articles and relevant bibliographies

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a word from the expert

Cured meats and the MEDITERRANEAN diet A relationship that has never been broken

Giuseppe L. Pastori – Food Technologist

The belief that the Mediterranean diet is only based on a vegetable regimen is wrong. The contribution of animal proteins, meat, fish and cured meats, is essential for the nutritional equilibrium of a food regimen that is among the most complete in the world.

hen we look at a picture or watch a video, only who has made it can connect the memory of that event and its history. He knows the background behind the scenes and the feelings he had in that moment. If those scenes represent a lifestyle or a group of people, there is no need for who looks at that scene to contextualize the moment (even if he was not present and knows the setting and its history): he perfectly knows what it is about. If there is a title or a caption, it will be easier to remember the event and understand it with the right interpretation, even after years. Sometimes the author or the protagonists may omit the title, which is then added by people who are foreign to the context, who have perceived it indirectly, reported by others. In this case the interpretation will not be univocal: whoever looks at the document at a later time can’t understand its full meaning. He can only restrict himself to a few superficial aspects, without examining in depth. When we talk about Mediterranean Diet, we – Italians – don’t have to clarify what we are talking about, because we live in this lo-

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cal context. It’s obvious that the food regimen of our diet takes inspiration from our culinary tradition, though our environment is now more urbanized. The strong connection with our agricultural production and with the excellence of our land remains and gives life to a variety of foods and to their balanced combinations. The concept of Mediterranean Diet appeared in the ‘50s last century (though it was not known with that name; it will become popular in 1975, when the Americans gave it this qualification). In 1945 the Ministry sent an American physiologist and nutritionist, Ancel Keys, to follow the US troops in Italy during the Second World War and study human performances in hypo nutritional conditions (he will later develop the so called K ration, which has been named after him and will be widely used by the US and allied troops). Keys was studying the relation between body configuration and blood pressure, and between diet, cholesterol and coronary disease. Keys was the first to emphasize the relation between

energy intake, energy waste and metabolic rate at rest, which enabled to understand the waste of calories in an activity and the phenomena that lead to obesity and type 2 diabetes. In the early ‘50s he took part in the first FAO meeting on Food and Agriculture in Italy and was impressed by the low effect of cardiovascular pathologies and gastrointestinal upsets among Campania inhabitants. This observation required a scientific explanation. He compared the Mediterranean Countries’, Italy’s and Crete’s diets with northern Europe’s, Japan’s and US diets, and discovered that the mortality rate for ischemic heart disease was lower in the Mediterranean populations, and they even lived longer. He settled in Italy with his wife Margaret, in Pioppi in Cilento area to be precise, and after decades-long investigations he concluded that a diet based on bread, pasta, fruit, vegetables, beans, extra virgin olive oil, fish and very little meat was responsible for the extraordinary healthy effect on the local

a word from the expert

population. This type of food regimen was named ‘Mediterranean Diet’. The results of all his studies were clarified in educational form and published in 1975 in the popular book entitled ‘Eat well and stay well’ (1). The book was revolutionary starting right from the United States. He tested the benefits of the Mediterranean Diet himself and died in Minneapolis few months before turning 101 years old in 2004! This longevity linked to lifestyle and diet was certified in 2017 by Bloomberg. According to Bloomberg Global Health Index, Italy is the place to live if you wish to live long. The Italian boot ranks first out of 163 countries with the healthiest populations worldwide (health index of 93.11 out of 100), considering a few variables like life expectancy, causes of death and hazards for health, calculated on blood pressure, smoke, malnutrition and drinkable water accessibility. This means that Unesco was right when they declared the Mediterranean Diet ‘an intangible cultural heritage of humanity’ in 2010 (2) and acknowledged that the Mediterranean populations (Italy, Spain, Greece, Morocco, and in 2013 also Portugal, Croatia and Cyprus) have knowledge and expertise, use social practices and traditions, good agricultural and ecological practices, from the landscape to the table, including farming, harvesting, fishing, preservation, processing, preparation and consumption of food. The grounds of the Mediterranean Diet remain always fixed while it updates to current lifestyles, to food quality improvements through new processing and preservation technologies, to the application of scientifical knowledge on primary fruit and vegetable production, of breeding farms and secondary processing of food. This model is founded on the respect of food diversity

and on their balanced combination, and includes mainly extra virgin olive oil, cereals, fresh and dried fruit, vegetables and moderate amounts of fish, dairy products and meat, with addition of dressings and spices, wine and infusions, always respecting the traditions of every community. While on the one hand scientists all around the world began to study the Mediterranean Diet in the ‘50s last century and they still consider it among the diets that have positive effects on our health, especially when combined with a suitable lifestyle and exercise, the role of the different classes of foods is not clear yet, as some structural foods like meat are excluded from the context of the diet. So it is perceived outside the scientifical field. Some Institutes even exclude meat-based foods from the Mediterranean Diet for a number of reasons (policies of interest, the choice of vegetable foods for ethical and environmental reasons), and confuse the consumers who are little used to deal with technical and scientifical subjects.

THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET DOES NOT RESTRICT ITSELF TO ONLY CONSUMING FEW FOODS The Mediterranean food model involves the consumption of all foods, no single food or

groups of food is predominant in this nutritional model. The effect of the combination of the different nutrients is very important in the diet. And we can’t forget that in the Mediterranean Diet good nutrition is associated with water intake and exercise. In this context the Italian Food Pyramid (3) that represents the basics of the Mediterranean Diet for our Country, is the symbol of healthy and balanced nutrition, the point of reference for the daily choice of nutrients. The pyramid highlights consumption regularity, the nutrients that we take in every day are in the base, the nutrients that we take in once a week are in the tip. The top includes protein-based foods. Meat, cured meats, fish, eggs, milk and dairy products are a source of high-quality proteins, are easily digestible and rich in essential micronutrients like iron, zinc, A vitamin, B12 vitamin, and D vitamin, which guarantee a suitable diet and prevent nutritional deficits. These foods also positively affect growth, cognitive functions, and exercise, above all for children. Moderate consumption is enough, as digestion makes the essential micronutrients easily bioavailable. The cuisine we use in Italy, even everyday cuisine, is often based on these concepts; as you move from the coast to the backcountry or to the north, fish is replaced by meat and cured meats, while milk, dairy products and eggs keep their position. If we go back to the syllogism of the picture, when someone who lives outside our Country hears about the Mediterranean Diet, he goes to the diet of Southern Italy, which is mainly vegetable-based and with large consumption of fish; in fact he will connect it to the Countries that overlook the Mediterranean Sea (the same happens for Spain and Greece, the other refer-

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a word from the expert

REAL CONSUMPTION AND APPARENT CONSUMPTION OF FISH AND MEAT IN ITALY In Italy the apparent consumption of fish is approximately 30,9 kg per person per year (2017, source EUMOFA), and comprises preserved and frozen products. Italians are more inclined to eat fresh fish, farmed fish as well; the 25-39 and 40-54 age ranges are the largest consumer. On the other hand, the apparent consumption of meat (cattle, pork, poultry, sheep, goat and rabbits altogether) is around 76.0-77.0 kg per person per year (2019, source ISMEA/ISTAT). Let’s pay attention to the different use of ‘real consumption’ and ‘apparent consumption’ of a food, because the official data report the apparent consumption which can be more easily deduced from the economic data of national supplies. However, the apparent consumption refers to the raw weight: in case of meat, the raw weight is the weight of the carcass and comprises inedible parts like bones, cartilages, fat; in case of fish, it’s the weight of the just fished animal (live weight) and comprises head, fishbone, fins and gills, and entrails. In addition, the apparent consumption includes processing decreases and losses due to spoilage of meat and fish. Real consumption is always an approximate estimate of the edible part of a food, and it’s more difficult to calculate. The real consumption of meat is approximately 38 kg per person per year, fish less that 18 kg per person per year (11). These figures differ from the numbers reported by several sources that mention the apparent consumption to justify the exaggerate consumption of meat and animal proteins in the diet.

ence countries for the Mediterranean diet). Americans are the example, having coined the term ‘Mediterranean Diet’ with reference to a diet that is based only on food and does not consider lifestyle and the cultural traditions that characterize it. According to Mayo Clinic, a respected academic non-profit organization in the USA committed in clinical practice and health assistance, the Mediterranean Diet (4) is a “…healthy nutritional plan. It is based on vegetables and involves the tastes and the traditional cooking methods of the Mediterranean region …Vegetable-based foods, like whole cereals, vegetables, beans, fruit, nuts, seeds, herbs and spices are the grounds of the diet. Butter is replaced with healthy fats, like olive oil and rapeseed oil. Fish, seafood, dairy products and poultry are included with moderation.

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Red meat and sweets are only occasionally consumed”. It immediately stands out that true Mediterranean people do not consume large amounts of whole cereals, that nuts are quite uncommon and rapeseed oil is never used; in addition, the real consumption of fish as protein-based food is remarkably inferior to meat (see BOX), cured meats, cheese and dairy products. And the Italian cuisine that uses local products has larger consumption of meat or fish within the same region depending on the availability of the two ingredients, if they live near the coast or in the backcountry. Cured meats and cheese are well-known specialities and Italians always have them in the pantry. Even the reference to ‘vegetable-based’ foods is quite unclear and vague. An American who comes to Italy and wishes to taste the Mediterranean gastronomical tradition will eat less pasta than he expects, and will find that pizza is an alternative: in general we eat a portion of pasta at the beginning of the meal (lunch or dinner), but infrequently it’s an abundant dish; pasta can come with sauces that often contain meats and are used as a dressing (like in ragout lasagna), not just with tomato. Bread is white and only seldom it’s made of whole cereals. Meat is always present: it can be a starter

with cured meats and local cheese, or a main course. Sometimes fish is proposed alternatively. The Mediterranean Diet has always included the consumption of animal proteins, especially meat and cured meats considering Italy’s vocation for meat processing and preservation since ancient times. Italians limit meat consumption at 450 grams per person a week (which corresponds to an average daily consumption of approximately 65 grams). We are abundantly below the weekly amounts recommended by WHO and IARC, who fix the risk threshold for cancer at a daily consumption of 100 grams per person: this is absolutely natural and in line with the basics of the food pyramid where portions and regularity depend on age, sex and exercise levels. It is true that the quality of meats and dairy products we eat today is much different from the past. In fact animals are fed with balanced and selected fodder which produce leaner meats with unsaturated fatty acids surpassing saturated fatty acids, and with a gradual reduction of salt – maybe not enough yet – in meatand cured meat-based products. And finally, what would Italian food be without cured meats like ham, cheek lard, bacon, bresaola, salami, mortadella or soppressata, just to name some very popular varieties, the production of which is often regulated by PDO and PGI protocols? The cured meat industry has lived a strong development in Italy and in the Mediterranean Countries, where even the Ancient Romans were used to process and preserve meats. Some specialities date back to the Middle Ages, so they have a very long tra-

dition. Obviously, this means that seasoned and processed meats were popular in the ‘50s last century - when the effects of the Mediterranean diet on health were studied – as they are now. Greengrocer, butcher and cured meat shops have always been close in almost every Italian town.

HUMAN EVOLUTION AND MEDITERRANEAN DIET ARE CONNECTED WITH THE WORLD OF MEATS The relation between meat and human nutrition has always been the ground for the sustenance; meat and its derivatives have brought many nutritional benefits to our organism, which had a weight on the species’ evolution in physical and cognitive terms. The early men were hunters and pickers, they depended on the environment where they lived for their survival. We can say they were opportunist carnivores because meat was not easy to hunt; when fire was discovered, they learned to cook it and to make it more digestible. When men evolved from nomadic hunters to resident hunters, they learned to practice agriculture and to tame some animal species, to select and breed them for working in the fields, then our ancestors became omnivorous; they had regular food and used animal skins to produce garment and shoes. The need to preserve food drove men to process primary food into preserved food, to protect it from spoiling and to make provisions for less favorable times of the year. They developed many preservation techniques, from seed storage to make flours to the processing of grapes into wine and

of olives into oil, from the production of cheese from milk and of cured meats from meat. The products obtained from meats, especially from pork, have always been many: whole pieces produced from anatomical cuts, and sausages, obtained by pressing different parts of pig together and stuffing them in cases obtained from the intestines, with addition of salt and herbs, which were let dry. Salting has such an ancient origin that we can find a description of products similar to sausages and salami even in the Egyptian tombs of the XII century B.C. A first classification of meat preservation techniques based on salting was due to the Ancient Romans, while smoking was of Barbarian influence. The spread of this technical know-how, the abundant availability of salt and the spread of pig farms, opened the way to the production of cured meats on a family basis, and reinforced the idea that the consumption of meat was a fundamental point for a healthy diet. Consumption habits have changed a lot in the following historical periods, lands became poor due to famine and wars ,and there was a clear distinction between social classes. Fresh read meats (mainly from game) were always available on nobles’ tables, while the rural people were used to eat white meat or pork meat (pigs were easily farmed) processed into cured meats, or cheese, only during celebrations. Anyway, the production of local specialities and the farming of native species did not fail in the peninsula. From the XIX century onwards, mechanization applied to the production of preserves enabled to develop an early industry for cured meats, though still tied to craft. We will have to wait until the economic growth of the second post war period for the full development of cattle farming for the production of meat, and for the production of cured meats on industrial basis with better safety and healthy requisites. Animal proteins are now essential, pediatricians suggest them as the ideal food for the growth and the phyco-physical development of children, and for the different stages of life. The history of Italian and of the Mediterranean Countries’ nutrition has always found a reference in animal production which binds it to the cultural tradition of different

areas. Farming practices and the different processing techniques played a role in rural development and in its economy. Italy is homeland to many qualitative productions, right thanks to the bond with its lands. Our productions based on the excellence of products with controlled designation of origin, or our typical traditional products, niche production and Slow Food products are recognized especially abroad, and many farming lines have preserved the local characteristics that distinguish them from more general farming. Suffice it to say that Italy boasts the highest number of meat-based PDO and PGI products in Europe: there are 43 protected specialities based on meat (23% of total) (5) and 6 specialities in the category of fresh meats (living animals) and entrails (6), in addition to many hundreds of other regional traditional products that are part of the list of Traditional Agricultural Products completed by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (7). Considering the European Countries that have been acknowledged by UNESCO as owners of the Mediterranean Diet (Italy, Cyprus, Croatia, Greece, Portugal and Spain), we can see that PDO and PGI products that belong to class 1.2 “Meat products (cooked, pickled, smoked, etc.)” [8] are 113 out of 186, equal to more than 60% of the total; the fresh meats recognized in the excellence sphere are 63 out of 153 (Italy has 6), this, means more than 41% (source: EU data bank eAmbrosia [9]). Most of the certified products based on meat come from pork. Many native cattle and pig breeds are farmed from northern to southern Italy (and of other animal species), which represent a unique heritage in historical, social, cultural,

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biological and economic terms, and are the result of a long relation between man and the environment. Often these animals are farmed in marginal areas of the Apennines and the islands, where they can live in the wild. Pigs have genetical and breeding characteristics that make their meat particularly precious, as well as the cured meats produced from them. In addition to the popular Cinta Senese (PDO certified), the best known Italian native pig breeds are Nero dei Nebrodi (or Nero Siciliano) and Mora Romagnola. Among the minor breeds, though still refined, there are Nera Casertana and Nero di Calabria; Sardinia has its own native pigs. The former five breeds above are the officially recognized native breeds; ANAS (the national association of pig farmers) has even filed all their genetic profiles in a book to protect the breed. In recent times more than 30 additional breeds or varieties of pigs have been described on the whole Italian territory.

CONCLUSIONS Even though the Mediterranean Diet is now characterized by a large availability of food which makes us live in good psychophysical conditions despite poor physical exercise (few hours a week maximum), and our lifestyle is not so plain as it was among the postwar Italian people, its grounds remain based on the consumption of bread, pasta, fruit, vegetables, oil and wine. Animal proteins, including meat and cured meats, cheese, eggs and fish are not excluded. Together with longer life expectancy, our time period has witnessed increasing obesity problems, cardiovascular diseases, cancer and type-2 diabetes (bound to overweight conditions). However, the nutritional contribution of meat in a balanced diet can’t be questioned. There is no scientific evidence that these hazardous conditions exclusively depend on the consumption of animal meats and fats. Overweight is not simply caused by the intake of fatty foods; it’s the result of an anomalous energetic balance. The replacement of fats with alternative sources of energy, maybe with a higher intake of carbohydrates, is among the causes of obesity (10).

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Meat owns a great value even in little amounts because it’s an important source of proteins, easily digestible essential amino acids and other useful micronutrients, like B-group vitamins (above all B1, niacin and B12) and minerals (like zinc, iron, selenium and copper), more easily bioavailable to the human organism. Cured meats are an alternative to meat in the second course, and due to their content of fats and salts (necessary for their preservation) we can’t exceed with consumption. However, starting from the ‘80s the content of fats has been cut by 30% and polyunsaturated fats (Omega-3 included) have surpassed saturated fats; products with lowered salt content are also available. When we buy a piece of meat, we should

choose leaner cuts and alternate red meats (cattle, lean pork), white meats (poultry, calf ) and cured meats. The right amount of meat and cured meats, in line with the rules of the Mediterranean nutritional model that suggests a moderate consumption, has positive effects on our health and wellness, they should never be lacking in any stage of life, especially in growing teenagers and elderly people. The meat industry plunges its roots in the past and often keeps the typical features of the past, uses modern technologies and suitable farming and animal feeding practices to make meats healthier and safer. They are carefully controlled and traceability allows to trace the history of a product from the consumer back to primary agricultural production. Meats and cured meats are an important calling card for anybody visits our Country and wishes to understand the culture of our land, from the Alps to the Apennines. From North to South, the culinary journey will meet products like Bresaola della Valtellina PGI, Speck dell’Alto Adige PGI, Prosciutto di S. Daniele PGI and Prosciutto di Parma PDO, Mortadella Bologna and Mortadella Prato PGI, many salami, Capocollo PDO and Salsiccia PDO produced from Nero di Calabria pigs. Quality meats, in Italy, are always there. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Keys A. & M. (1975). How to eat well and stay well: the Mediterranean way. Doubleday 2. UNESCO (2010). Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. http:// www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/00394 3. Istituto di Scienza dell’Alimentazione – Università “La Sapienza” di Roma (2005). www.piramideitaliana.it 4. https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/in-depth/mediterraneandiet/art-20047801 5. MIPAAF – Disciplinari di produzione Prodotti DOP, IGP e STG riconosciuti: 1.2 Prodotti a base di carne (cotti, salati, affumicati, ecc.). https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB. php/L/IT/IDPagina/3339 6. MIPAAF – Disciplinari di produzione Prodotti DOP, IGP e STG riconosciuti: 1.1 Carni fresche (e frattaglie). https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3338 7. MIPAAF - Ventunesima revisione dell’elenco dei prodotti agroalimentari tradizionali (con tabelle per Regione e categoria merceologica). https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/16681 8. Regolamento (UE) n. 1151/2012 del Parlamento Europeo e del Consiglio, del 21 novembre 2012, sui regimi di qualità dei prodotti agricoli e alimentari. 9. Commissione Europea – Registro delle indicazioni geografiche dell’UE. https://ec.europa.eu/ info/food-farming-fisheries/food-safety-and-quality/certification/quality-labels/geographical-indications-register/ 10. Pinto A., Liberati G., Cannella C. (2006). Alimentazione e obesità nel terzo millennio. In Chirurgia bariatrica (a cura di Basso N. e Silecchia G.F.). 108° Congresso della Società di Chirurgia. SIC Società Italiana Chirurgia 11. Russo V., De Angelis A., Danieli P.P., (a cura di) - (2017). Consumo reale di carne e di pesce in Italia: Dal consumo apparente al consumo reale con il metodo della Detrazione Preventiva delle Perdite. Milano, Franco Angeli Editore The authors are responsible for the opinions expressed in the articles and relevant bibliographies

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