First edition. January 2009 Second edition. January 2018 ISBN 9788885475 090 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. via Longhi, 10 Milano Italy tel. +39 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved world wide. No part of this book can be translated, electronically copied, reproduced, adapted partially or totally by any means. Cover
Mario Sertori, Kerze, Sertig (© F. Marcelli)
Texts
Mario Sertori
Translation
Alexandra Ercolani
Maps
Chiara Benedetto. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map
Symbols
Tommaso Bacciocchi
Layout
Chiara Benedetto
Tipolitografia PAGANI (BS)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I wish to thank everybody who supplied me with material and information: Hervé Barmasse, Nicolò Berzi, Elio Bonfanti, Giuliano Bordoni, Giuseppe Burlone, Tono Carasol, Marco Conti, Marco Croce, Luisa Fusi, Luca Godenzi, Michele Guffanti, Rossano Libera, Giancarlo Maritano, Kata Matoga, Antonio Muñoz Gomez, Emanuel Panizza, Andrea Notari, Tullio Parravicini, Stefano Plano, Ulrich Prinz, Franz Rota Nodari, Sergio Turbil, François Damilano and Claude Gardien. Special thanks
go to Leonardo Pasquali for the beautiful photos portraying Giancarlo Grassi, taken by his father Vincenzo, unforgotten photographer of “Nuovo Mattino”. Thank you also to Francesca Marcelli who took most of the action photos present in this book, often taken in complicated situations. I am also very grateful to Patrick Gabarrou, Ezio Marlier, and the departed Ueli Steck who spent their precious time answering my questions and encouraging me in my editorial project.
WARNING Be careful: ice-climbing is a potentially dangerous activity. Climatic conditions can vary rapidly and the state of the ice is subject to changes which can even be very sudden, provoked by external factors. A few itineraries are exposed to avalanche danger. Maximum effort was put in to guarantee the exact nature of the information contained in this guide, but they should nonetheless
be verified each single time by experts who are able to evaluate the ice conditions. Listen to the avalanche forecasts and collect information regarding the area. The use of this guide book is at your own risk and under no circumstances can the author or editor be held responsible for any accidents which occur on any of the routes described.
Mario Sertori
ALPINE ICE 1 The best icefalls in the Alps
Volume 1 700 routes in France, Switzerland and Italy- Western Alps
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
ALPINE ICE Volume 1 Introduction - January 2018 Photo Credits Presentation Introduction - January 2008 Explanatory notes Index and map
6 8 11 12 14 18
France Fer - à - Cheval – Icefalls of history Icefalls with a view Patrick Gabarrou
20 78 92 104
Switzerland Buon compleanno The art gallery of Gondo Ueli Steck
106 186 189 320
Italy - Western Alps Legends never age - A memoir of Giancarlo Grassi The valley of Arnas – Piedmont Sea will return.... Ezio Marlier
324 340 364 378 412
Analytical index of the more difficult icefalls
502
ALPINE ICE Volume 2
Heimdal, Valtournenche (© Arch. M. Sertori)
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Italy - Central Alps Italy - Eastern Alps Austria Slovenia
5
INTRODUCTION
by Mario Sertori, January 2018
In spite of this, the collection has been quite generous: almost double the amount of routes listed compared to 2009, which was already quite substantial. It has therefore been necessary to divide the material into two different books: Alpine Ice vol.1 France - Switzerland – Western Italy and Alpine Ice vol. 2 Austria - Slovenia – Eastern Italy. The two volumes are interconnected and even if they describe different geographical areas, together they make up the complete picture of the alpine arc, presenting the best icefalls found in this monumental and mountainous architecture. In the book you are leafing through you will find legendary areas which are worth the journey no matter where you set off from. A quick taster session? In France do not miss out on the Pyrenean Gavarnie, where an endless number of icefalls are lined up one next to another, offering all sorts of difficulties, like a sort of immense, crystal palace. Heading back to the Alps, allow yourself a bit of relaxation on the routes of Les Orres, climb two pitches at Ceillac to then run away from the busy
crowd of skiers and find shelter at Freissinières or at Fournel, two places where colossal icicles form along the vertical rock faces such as Tête de Gramusat. Haute Maurienne definitely deserves a visit for its special climbing and environment above all for Glacenost and Revernotte. In the site of Sixt-Fer à Cheval the most impressive lines of Europe form, from La Massue at La Lyre, (the first two icefalls to be graded 7) to La Sorcière Blanche, a concentration of difficulty and breath taking exposure. The Vallon de Sales is more popular, where you can safely go even when it isn’t very cold, while at Cirque des Fonts you will encounter a Canadian monster worthy of Weeping Wall such as the Cascade du Milieu. At Montriond, above the lake you will find Dame du Lac, an elegant icy structure and probably the most beautiful climb described in this book. Going back to Chamonix, on the edges of the Argentière glacier there are many chances to enjoy ice climbing, two jewels are Shiva Lingam and Nuit Blanche. There are many new icefalls in Switzerland, such as in the southern valleys of Valais which form the crown of the “4000” metre peaks of Zermatt, Sass Fee, Zinal and Arolla and head north towards the Rhône and offer a great heritage of routes which should not be missed. Entire rock faces armoured in ice and among the most aspired in the Alps, neglected in the old Alpine Ice, here are explored with new eyes. A classic example is the wall of Breitwangflue, above Kandersteg, one of the best spots ever in the whole alpine chain, where the key element regularly presents itself every single winter: two itineraries have turned into fourteen and include a few gems such as the Flying Circus, Mach 3 and Metro. Always in the canton of Bern, two minutes from the very up market Kandersteg, it is worth entering the less famous Kiental, which is like a treasure chest full of exciting icefalls with very easy approach walks. Crack Baby, Kandersteg (© M. Sertori)
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Even if during the last decades the climate has become bizarre and the weather is schizophrenic bringing increased temperatures around the planet, European ice climbers have not yet abandoned the hope of climbing crystal routes, in fact their number is forever increasing, so much so that new guide books of Italy, Switzerland and Austria have been published, a clear sign that there is an increased interest in winter climbing. Nine years have past since the latest edition of Alpine Ice was published, it speaks four languages and has been so popular among climbing enthusiasts that it has been published numerous times, but it was showing signs of precocious aging. Therefore I have found myself preparing this second edition with a large quantity of areas visited in the meantime and a difficult selection was undertaken to reach the finishing line.
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Introduction
For the Italian section of the Alps, we start off from Val Varait, this is where the history of Italian ice climbing began, and insinuating itself even into the hidden valleys, our path heads towards east passing across wonderful sceneries such as the silent Occitan valleys drenched in Waldensian culture and the total respect of nature, to the areas colonized by ski lifts and sport stadiums built for the Turin winter Olympics of 2006, which in spite of this host in its vicinity pearls such as Valle Argentera or Val Troncea. We enter the Aosta Valley and circumnavigate it tasting its delights and discovering that icefalls do not only form in Cogne. Heading back into Piedmont, Ossola awaits us with the valleys of Antrona, Anzasca and Formazza, areas which are not very busy and have icefalls with character. This is only a taste of some of the almost 700 opportunities this book has to offer, a container offering seducing proposals for adventurous climbers. An anthem to the wild side of the Alps, and an invitation to travel, to discover new places, new costumes and different languages. A quality of great importance in such a dark and difficult period, in which borders and walls which have just been shattered are being overwhelmingly rebuilt. For those having difficulty in finding their way, I have included the geographical coordinates of the car parks and of almost all the routes. Increasingly precise information which must not take away the sense of adventure which remains when tackling an icefall, but should be analysed and stored to reduce the risks linked to our activities to a bare
minimum. Risks linked, above all, to objective dangers such as avalanches and the sudden rise in temperature, which during the past years have caused dramatic accidents. With this in mind, I recommend two splendid manuals which everyone should read before tackling an icefall: L’arte del ghiaccio di J.B.Gras and M.Ibarra, and La Cascade de Glace by P.Batoux, which include, as well as technique and history, analytical methods to help reduce any dangers. I have re-proposed the short interviews to Patrick Gabarrou, Ezio Marlier and Ueli Steck, who has recently died. Claude Gardien, for many years at the head of Vertical Magazine, has written a beautiful piece on Fer à Cheval: those sublime and unsettling walls do partly belong to him, since he explored the various routes there. In the volume there is a memoir of Giancarlo Grassi who brought to us Elio Bonfanti, ice climber and his disciple. Grassi was the Italian precursor of icefalls, the alpinist who above all, knew how to pass on the love and passion he had for this type of climbing. Marco Conti who, with Grassi, shared many vertical days, introduces us finally to the Vallone of Sea, promised land for the sailors of the Nuovo Mattino, by Gianpiero Motti to Grassi himself who elected it as its personal crystal garden combing through every corner. With pleasure I re propose this original introduction of Claude Gardien written for the old Alpine Ice, it is always current and since it is part of the story of this book, even my introduction.
PHOTO CREDITS Unless where specifically stated, all photographs are part of the author’s private collection, except for: Hervè Barmasse 462 - 463, Nicolò Berzi 347, Elio Bonfanti 362 - 368, Marco Conti 353, Marco Croce 363, Claude Gardien 83, Luca Godenzi 308 - 309 - 310 - 314,
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Rossano Libera 60, Giancarlo Maritano 369 - 370 - 372, Ezio Marlier 429 - 430 - 449, Emanuel Panizza 311, Andrea Notari 496 - 498, Stefano Plano 329 - 330 - 351, Ulrich Prinz 216 - 217 - 232, Franz Rota Nodari 273 - 274 - 276, Sergio Turbil 352.
2 0 0 years 1818 The Grivel family of blacksmiths, star ted to transform their production of agricultural tools in what would later become mountain equipment.
1860 With no real inventor the ice axe is offcially born.
1909 The English engineer Oscar Eckenstein was received with scepticism when he asked Henr y Grivel to manufacture the first modern crampon in histor y.
20 E
E
0
AX
1936 Amato Grivel creates a really strong crampon, thinner and lighter than the others: 360 grams a pair.
IC
1929 Henr y’s son Laurent came up with the brilliant invention of the two front points, it’s the bir th of the 12 points crampon.
1986 GRIVEL’s Super Courmayeur system, with its spare and interchangeable picks and shovels, establishes itself as market leader.
2003 GRIVEL resolves the problem of snow build up under crampons with the first pro-active anti-balling plate.
2010 GRIVEL installs a solar paneled roof and star ts to produce its goods with solar energy.
2014 Twingate carabiner, the safest carabiner ever made. Receiving the Compasso d’oro Award.
2017 Stealth helmet a new innovative design for a hyper-light and hyperventilated helmet!
Valter Grivel
2
0 0
RU
C
K
SA
C
K
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PRESENTATION by Claude Gardien An iced waterfall is a magical universe, due to its shapes, its colours, its light. What is really fascinating for ice climbers is the ephemeral character of its formations. To observe the water trickling down a rock face under its summer heat, a single rivulet just like a gushing waterfall, to imagine this flow suddenly immobilized into ice, to then climb it: this becomes a form of alpinism which is definitely exciting. Ice falls are unpredictable lovers. They are never identical, they evolve without ever pausing; depending on their temperature, hygrometry or gravity. Sometimes they disappear, disappointing their admirers who are forced to go on the move for days or weeks. Climbers have got used to this nomadic life style throughout each ice fall season. You have to find yourself in the right place at the right time never hesitating to travel to make the most of the favourable season. François Damilano and Godefroy Perroux, two pioneers of this field have named the network of friends who send them information on all the ice around the world “Ice Connection”. Mario Sertori’s book is part of this culture. Ice is travel; ice and encounters go hand in hand, the idea of presenting a selection of ice falls in dif-
ferent European countries remains loyal to the reality of this sport. This book consecrates itself to this discipline which has by now reached full maturity. From an eccentric speciality ice-climbing has become a rite of passage for any alpinist. Ice-climbing has considerably increased our knowledge in terms of alpine ice. Getting used to overhanging evolutions, not only inside couloir’s grooves; while becoming accustomed to steepness and fragility, increasingly bold and technical movements have forced the couloirs of the seventies to become classic ascents of an alpinism which is set in the past. Today it is dry tooling which defines mountaineering on high mountains. On the north faces of the Alps and Himalayas you can hear the sound of crampons scraping rock, as well as the screech of ice picks on the holds which make it or break it on great ascents. But even if it is ice or rock it is always associated with pleasure. How can we not iceclimb if we love climbing? Mario’s book helps us discover far away and unknown places. It is a true celebration of ice-climbing.
M. Sertori, Dame du Lac, Montriond (© Arch. M. Sertori)
11
INTRODUCTION
by Mario Sertori, August 2008
The idea of writing this book came to me during the winter of 2006, a season with a generous supply of ice and water which gave ice-climbers an opportunity they had not had for a long time of climbing plenty of ice-falls. Caught up like many others by the craving to possess, even for just a moment, the largest number of ice falls possible, I began my frenetic travelling around the mountains in search of my personal Holy Grail. The number of areas to be visited meant that I was accompanied by a well furnished library which vied for space and priority with ropes, crampons and ice axes: in the car the books - numerous and heavy - took first place, talking conceitedly the most diverse languages and leaving in second place the modern ice tools. Carrying around a library by car certainly had its drawbacks.
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I thought it would be good to find everything narrated and kept safely in one book, the most interesting ice falls in the Alpine arc, which guide books used to describe as being ‘worth the trip’ even on their own. A very difficult undertaking, almost impossible for only one person, even if for my part I have covered the length and breadth of alpine ridges in search of ice for over twenty years. Fortunately many ice climbers helped me out by bringing me their pictures, precious news and important experiences. Each country’s ice fall description is followed by a short interview with a ‘well referenced’ ice climber from that country: their names need no introduction, they are alpinists who have written the history of our sport with the tips of their tools. Finally a geographical annotation: I could not resist the call of the Cirque de Gavarnie, the only non-alpine site included, which represents, one of the most beautiful places to ice climb in Europe.
EXPLANATORY NOTES GEAR As well as the gear needed to make progress on and protect the ice, it may be useful to bring a few rock pegs as well as a choice of nuts and friends. For safety reasons do not forget to bring an avalanche transceiver together with a shovel and probe. Learn how to use them. EVALUATING DIFFICULTIES The figure in roman numerals (from I to VI) expresses the overall effort regardless of the route’s technical difficulty and refers to parameters such as continuity and the length of the route, the possibility of retreating, the complexity of the approach, the exposure to objective dangers, the difficulty of the descent. Only one of these parameters is sufficient to determine the evaluation of the overall difficulty. The figure in Arabic numbers (from 1 to 7), usually preceded by the letters WI (water ice) is a classification used initially in Canada, and in fact it is called the Canadian scale, and it expresses the technical difficulties calculated on the most difficult pitch. It refers to the length of the vertical sections, to the continuity, to the quality fo the protections and to that of the ice depending on the thickness, the consistency and the shapes (cauliflowers, medusa etc). The evaluation of the difficulty is always a general indicator, because icefalls always form differently every year and the conditions of the ice are subject to alterations, even quick ones caused by external agents (sun, wind, snow, jumps in temperature.)
QR code car park
QR code base of icefall
M. Sertori, Campsut Kerze, Val Ferrera - Avers (© F. Marcelli)
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SOME CLARIFICATION IS REQUIRED the name of the first ascenders has been left out due to uncertainty or lack of info. I apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions or inaccuracies. scale of difficulty: see next chapter. each single ice-fall’s approach should be integrated with the photographs present. The numbers found in the text are correlated to the numbers on the photographs the length of the ice-fall represents the total length of the ice-fall and not the vertical height gain. the ascent route has often been omitted since it can vary from season to season and to leave space for each individual’s imagination in choosing their own line. the notes (N.B:) comment on the itinerary’s beauty and characteristics as well as giving extra information about the ice falls. the approach time is calculated in terms of a fit climber’s pace (with tracks); they can therefore undergo considerable variation depending on the snow conditions and the lack of tracks. when indicating “right” and “left” this refers to, if not otherwise specified, the direction in which you are walking. EQUIPMENT IN SITU The topos precisely express whether abseil anchors are equipped: this means that- if there is no specific information - abseils (or the anchors) need to be equipped. In any case you need to take into consideration the fact that there is a strong possibility that the equipment undergoes wear and tear and consequently deteriorates due to avalanches, rock fall etc. It is therefore good practice to bring with you “abandonment slings” to reinforce the existing anchors or to replace any damaged slings. It is recommended to learn the Abalakov technique (ice tunnels) in case you decide to climb ice falls which are not equipped with abseil anchors.
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Explanatory notes
ICE EVALUATION I
short ice-fall, easy to reach, a descent which presents no problems.
II
an ice-fall which is easy to approach, one or more pitches. There are few objective dangers.
III
multi pitch ice-fall, a long approach walk is possible as well as the risk of objective dangers.
IV
difficult multi pitch ice fall, remote environment; difficult descent, objective dangers.
V
long or complex approach walk in a high mountain environment exposed to objective dangers; airy protections, difficulty in interpreting the ascent line, difficult descent which needs to be equipped.
VI
long itinerary in a high mountain environment with logistical problems, orienteering and choice of itinerary, exposed to objective dangers…and to the possibility of a bivouac.
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES 1
50/60° moves, experience in using ice axe and crampons is needed as well as belaying techniques.
2
60\70° moves but with good belaying possibilities.
3
70\80° moves, usually good ice. The vertical sections alternate with more leaning sections where you can set up good anchors.
4
75\85° moves and the possibility of a short vertical section. Usually good anchors and good ice.
5
a good technique is indispensable, due to the ice’s quality and the ascent’s difficulty, with a long section at 85\90°. There is the possibility of cauliflower formations.
6
one or more difficult pitches, difficult and precarious anchors, fragile or delicate ice. A good technique is indispensable.
7
as for grade 6, same characteristics, but more extreme.
X R M
indicates the risk of the whole structure collapsing! emphasises climbing on thin ice ascent with moves on rock (see below)
EVALUATION OF DRY TOOLING DIFFICULTIES These are ascents where ice sections are connected to rocky sections, always climbed with ice axes and crampons. The difficulty is indicated with the letter M followed by a number: M7 designates the “starting difficulty”, but one has to keep in mind that who opened dry tooling routes considered their ascents as representing the maximum grade of difficulty on ice and therefore they considered their achievements as grade 7. The most difficult grades
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in dry-tooling are of grade M15/M16. Now that this discipline is becoming more popular there are also M4/M6 grades, generally equipped with fixed protections on the sections of rock. Often this last is predominant and determines the difficulty of the route, also because the portion of ice is generally short compared to the whole ascent.
OUR VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE
ICE AXES
BACKPACKS
CARABINERS HELMETS
POLES
CARABINERS
BACKPACKS CRAMPONS
HELMETS
POLES
MADE WITH SOLAR ENERGY
www.grivel.com
FRANCE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
SWITZERLAND
LES ORRES CEILLAC FREISSINIÈRES VALLON DU FOURNEL LA GRAVE HAUTE MAURIENNE LES CONTAMINES VAL MONTJOIE VALLON DE SALES CIRQUE DES FONTS FER-À-CHEVAL MONTRIOND ARGENTIÈRE GAVARNIE
22 28 32 38 46 50 56 60 66 70 80 84 94
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
MAUVOISIN VAL D’HERENS VALLE D’ANNIVIERS MATTERTAL SAAS TAL GONDO COL DU PILLON KANDERSTEG ADELBODEN KIENTAL BRUNNITAL DAVOS AREA VAL FERRERA/AVERS ALBIGNA ENGADINA VAL POSCHIAVO
108 118 136 154 164 174 190 196 214 218 230 238 252 268 280 306
Nantes
Lyon
Bordeaux
18
13
Toulouse
ITALY - WESTERN ALPS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
VAL VARAITA VAL PELLICE VAL TRONCEA VAL DI SUSA VALLE ARGENTERA VAL DI VIÙ VAL D’ALA VAL GRANDE VALLE DELL’ORCO CHAMPORCHER VALLEY AOSTA - CENTRE VALLEY
326 334 344 348 354 358 366 374 380 386 390
Basel
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
COGNE VALSAVARENCHE VAL DI RHÊMES VALDIGNE VALPELLINE VALTOURNENCHE VAL D’AYAS GRESSONEY VALLEY MACUGNAGA VALLE ANTRONA VAL FORMAZZA
Zürich
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Bern
9 7
8
396 414 428 434 444 452 464 468 482 488 494
11 10
13 22
3
Davos 12 14
15
16
6Domodossola 2 Genève Martigny 5 21 4 7-12 20 Chamonix 1 1718 Lugano 16 15 19 Aosta 11 FRANCE 14 13 12 10 Milano 9 8 6 7 6 ITALY Grenoble Torino 5 4 Briançon 5 3 4 2 3 2 1 1 Cuneo Genova
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FRANCE 1 LES ORRES 2 CEILLAC 3 FREISSINIÈRES 4 VALLON DU FOURNEL 5 LA GRAVE 6 HAUTE MAURIENNE 7 LES CONTAMINES VAL MONTJOIE 8 VALLON DE SALES 9 CIRQUE DES FONTS 10 FER-À-CHEVAL 11 MONTRIOND 12 ARGENTIÈRE 13 GAVARNIE
M. Sertor,i Cascade des Viollins, Freissinières (© F. Marcelli)
22 28 32 38 46 50 56 60 66 70 80 84 94
11 8 9 10 7 12 Chamonix
Lyon
6 Grenoble
5 Briançon 4 3 2 1
Toulouse Nice Marseille Lourdes 13 Perpignan
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21
01
France
LES ORRES Les Orres is a well known skiing resort situated above Embrun, important centre south of Briançon, towards Gap. It is also well known for its icefalls, which even limited in number, offer great ascents in the sun in the morning, with an easy approach. In fact from the car park, a flat road at first, then a trail which goes downhill, in half an hour leads, to the foot of the ice falls. The most attractive is Dancing fall. The area, for the characteristics just mentioned is quite busy. ACCESS BY ROAD From Briançon take the RN94 towards south, pass Argentière La Bessée and continue until Embrun. Just beyond this village deviate to the left following sign posts for Les Orres, which you reach along D40 (roughly 10km). At a roundabout, as you approach the large buildings of the ski resort, continue straight on (right) until the next hair pin bend where you leave your car in a large car park. ACCESS TO SECTOR Level with a hair pin bend a flat road sets off with sign posts for Via Ferrata. The icefall is already partly visible from the car park, on the opposite side of the valley. Follow the road and the sign posts for the ferrata, which over a bridge, lead to the opposite side of the valley and the ice fall which is further up is Dancing Fall. For the routes lower down, continue below some rocks until you reach the various starts, or else cross the river (bridge) going down from the straight road from the point in which it is possible to see the ice falls well.
1 Dancing fall 2 Le Beau cigare 3 Regina 4 Clara 5 Nadia
Les Orres 5 4
Chalet des Fontaines
3 2
M. Sertori, Dancing Fall (© F. Marcelli)
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1
23
01 France  Les Orres
1
2
3
5 4
1 DANCING FALL
EAST Aspect
II 4+ 5 Difficulty
30 min Approach
1700 m
Altitude
100 m
Length
abseil
Descent
Descent: abseil down from trees with slings and maillon (60m ropes). Access: see access to sector. N.B: with a long pitch you reach a tree on the right (from which you abseil down), coming off the first step. Or else you can set up anchor on bolts 35 metres to the right. With another long pitch, or better still going to set up anchor at the base of the last ice step, you overcome the cigar and stop on the left (but also on the right) on trees equipped for abseiling.
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2 LE BEAU CIGARE
EAST Aspect
II 5+ Difficulty
35 min Approach
1700 m
Altitude
150 m
Length
abseil
Descent
Descent: abseil down. As you exit to the right, with two abseils on tree you reach the snowy slope above P1, traverse it and with a last abseil on trees you reach the base. Access: see access to sector. N.B: with an easy pitch you reach a snowy slope which leads below a nice ice step. This can be climbed with two difficult vertical pitches, the first is the more difficult one and is not always formed.
3 REGINA
EAST Aspect
II 4+ 5 Difficulty
35 min Approach
1700 m
Altitude
180 m
Length
abseil
Descent
Descent: abseil on tree Access: see access to sector. N.B: beautiful and varied.
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01 France Les Orres
4 CLARA
EAST Aspect
II 4
Difficulty
40 min Approach
1700 m
Altitude
180 m
Length
abseil
Descent
Descent: abseil (bolts). Access: see access to sector. N.B: the first pitch is not always well formed and it might require some moves on mixed (pegs in situ). You don’t come out into the woods above, but you abseil down from the bolted anchor at the exit of the last ice step. Together with the nearby Nadia it is a classic of the area.
5 NADIA
EAST Aspect
180 m
Length
1700 m Altitude
40 min
Approach
II 4
Difficulty
abseil
Descent
M. Sertori, Dancing Fall (© F. Marcelli)
26
Descent: abseil down from trees and bolts Access: see access to sector and photos. N.B: usually it is climbed with three long pitches. A1 and A2 on bolts, A3 on trees to the right.
27