ARCO Rock

ARCO Rock

M. MANICA - A. CICOGNA - R. ANDRES

130 PROPOSALS. 5000 LINES. Arco - Lago di Garda Nord -

Valle del Sarca - Val di Ledro - Valli Giudicarie - Trento

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

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Fifth edition April 2022 ISBN 9788855470957 Copyright © 2022 VERSANTE SUD – Via Rosso di San Secondo, 1 20134 Milano Italy Phone +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Eremo di San Paolo, Stefano Ghisolfi, The Lonely Mountain, 9b (© Sara Grippo)

Text

Mario Manica, Antonella Cicogna and Roni Andres

Drawings and topos

Chiara Benedetto

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Chiara Benedetto

Printing

EFFE e ERRE Litografia, Trento - Italy

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook.

It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

MARIO MANICA ANTONELLA CICOGNA RONI ANDRES

ARCO Rock 130 PROPOSALS. 5000 LINES. Arco - Lago di Garda Nord - Valle del Sarca Valli Giudicarie - Val di Ledro - Trento

The authors Mario Manica. The first time I ever experimented the vertical world was to escape from my homework. I was ten years old. Tying the right kind of knot, I abseiled down from the balcony using my dad’s rope, he was a passionate alpinist. At fourteen I tried climbing for the first time at the crags near Rovereto, where I was born. I first reached the Sarca Valley later on, in 1977/78 with Giuliano Stenghel. Nago’s first route, Pia Chiusole, dedicated to my mother, carries our names.

Straight after, a route for my father, Bruno Manica. The Sarca Valley has always waited for me and welcomed me with new lines to repeat and walls to place my fingertips on. Even after I joined the Alpine Police School in Moena, in 1981. And ever since getting on a plane for Argentina in 1985.

And from there Patagonia, Alaska, Baffin Islands, Greenland, Northwest Territories Canada, Borneo, Iran, Oman, Mali…undertaking the type of alpinism which entails research and exploration on large rock faces under the aegis of the Fiamme Oro. The first winter ascents of the North and South towers of Paine, Chile, first ascents of the whole group in the world. The many first ascents of the Great North from 1988 to 2000. As it grows, over time the Sarca Valley has welcomed me back. After sixteen years since the first edition of Arco Crags, with this fifth edition, as an author, as always it is an honour to bring testimony to the vertical feats of this land, the dispassionate and passionate fruit of great bolters and climbers.

Antonella Cicogna. I cannot remember one weekend in which I did not escape from my city to breathe fresh air at altitude or immerse myself in the embrace of the sea. My encounter with Trentino happened at a very young age, together with my family. And also with rock before I met Mario, when I was undecided between the taste of salt water or the perfume of the mountains.

But it was thanks to climbing that our routes intertwined, one day. And from Milan I moved to Rovereto, in the Adige Valley, western sister of the Sarca Valley. I have always written and translated, my profession is that of journalist and translator. I began working with multinational groups, but I now free-lance, because that is the only way I could live coherently in nature. I followed Mario on many of his trips. Climbing, cycling, hiking, without every forgetting water. And I have written for many newspapers and magazines, specialised and not. Italian and foreign. Mario and I share the beauty of the land that hosts us and that has welcomed us with our daughter Sonia. As well as the generosity of the Sarca Valley, always ready to whisper new emotions to us.

Roni Andres. I am a Gaucho, because I was born in the extreme south of Brazil, at Caxias do Sul. I arrived in Italy in 2008 to work and climb and Sarca Valley magically became my home. Ever since then you can find me at Vertical Sport. I brought with me two great passions from Brazil: climbing and photography. I started climbing in 1993, with André Prazer and Carlos Pedroni as my teachers, who then became partners of many climbs. You could find me in the south, near my home: on the rocks of Gruta da Terceira Légua, the mecca of gaucho sports climbing. After a while I started bolting. It is my way of expressing myself and leaving a contribution to the vertical world. The passion for photography came a few years after climbing, the first shots were taken with an old Cyber-shot

by Sony. I have climbed everywhere: Brazil, Chile, Argentina…. Here in Europe: Slovenia, Austria, France, Spain and obviously Italy, and above all in the Sarca Valley. In 2019 I gained a diploma in Iridology/Naturopathy at the “Luigi Costacurta” National Academy of Health and Natural Sciences in Trento.

4

5

Preface 130 crags, 5000 single pitch routes: from Arco to the northern shores of Lake Garda, from the Sarca Valley to the Giudicarie Valleys and Trento Walls to climb on all year round, with 5000 single pitch routes which vary tremendously. A guide book which addresses everyone. From those who are approaching climbing for the very first time, to climbers with a medium to high level to the verticality experts. Because it is here, in these areas, that it is possible to find the highest concentration of difficulties in the whole of Italy, from 4a to 9b.

All this immersed in a supreme natural environment.

Let’s not be surprised if we bump into world famous climbers who have chosen this territory as their own home. Stefano Ghisolfi, Adam Ondra, Laura Rogora. The young talents of sports climbing’s future. Regulars such as Verhoeven, Hörhager…Passionate climbers from all over Europe and overseas. Climbing is guaranteed all year round thanks to the Mediterranean microclimate which the vicinity to Lake Garda offers. The variety of the single pitches of this area is to say the least enormous for each fingertip. And if the climbing ends? Off to the lakes: Garda, Tenno, Ledro…Sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing. Mountain biking, on foot along splendid paths. And then what else? Obviously the valley’s ice cream!

Since the last guide book was published there are 17 brand new rock faces and on these we reach 100 new routes, making a grand total of 130 crags offers in this Fifth Edition.

Padaro and Bassilandia are among the most visited walls, and during these last few years they have experienced an exponential growth, with many new and consistent sectors which increase their beauty.

The crags of Ceniga, Ottava Meraviglia Pizarra, have literally exploded with new routes and popularity.

For the first time we have been forced to exclude the entire area of Rovereto from these pages, the entire Val di Non area and numerous crags around Arco. A few of the rock faces were totally abandoned but the main reason is that the Fifth edition of this guide book would have ended up being too bulky with an extra one thousand pages!

Every single wall ever since the first edition, and of this we are extremely proud, is published with the approval of its route openers, and it is with them that we have always confronted ourselves with.

Nothing on these pages comes from underhand information. With this in mind, you will not find crags here that bolters do not wish to publish. An example is Narango: it is not included in this guide book. Even if you can find photos and topos of it on social media.

As regards the grading of the routes it must be mentioned that the difficulties of each wall are not, and never will be, homogenous. This does not only concern Arco, but the climbing world in general.

A 7b at Nago or Padaro is not the same 7b as the Spiaggia delle Lucertole or Swing Area.

To change the grade of a route is never easy. It is always appreciated if the grade is changed upwards. While it becomes more painful if the difficulties are lowered. Especially if we are talking about a 9a: a currently iconic grade that for every climber represents an objective, achieving one’s full potential, for the time being.

Where the route’s grades have been changed, the result is fruit of continuous consultation with whoever has unquestionable experience on that level. And we must remember, once again, that whoever opens a route proposes a grade, but then it is up to the climbers who repeat that route to decide the fate of that proposal.

To all climbers of overhangs, slabs and boulders, our wish is for you to have a lot of fun using this guide book!

Mario Manica Antonella Cicogna Roni Andres

6

Belvedere, Eliseu Frechou (© Tatiana Caloi Stinchi)

7

Thanks We have reached the fifth edition of this guide book, and approval to print has arrived thanks to the help, participation and availability of you all.

Davide Negretti. I should like to thank you above all. This year you were unable to be the co-author of the guide, but much of the work laid out here is the fruit of your labours over the years, and therefore it is also thanks to you.

Gianguido Dalfovo. How can you reply to our every call with so much enthusiasm and passion? You never stopped being patient, understanding and generous. And so modest. Because let’s say, if there is a slabby 8b or 8c to free, it will have your name on it.

And in the valley your name is on so many. Style, grace, class. On the rock, in life and in your profession as a chef. The guide book is finished! We shall let you climb in peace. But give us a call for one of those delicious Trentino dishes! We promise, especially to Sara, that we won’t talk about climbing...

Lorenzo De Bonis. We were in touch to get some information about your crag, Pausa Pranzo, the lovely little cave above Lago di Loppio. And on the phone you told me that you had another one. Where? Above Massone. One fine sunny day at the end of October you took me under the 50 pitches of Terra di Nessuno.

You and Nicola Trenti shared explanations on all the routes for hours, while attempting a spectacular traverse on polished rock with pockets. And then? On our way back to the car you say “Actually there would still be another one. Would you like to see it next time?” Which in the end, from another one, the rock faces turned into two, and your contagious enthusiasm and generosity as well as that of your bolting partners were able to bring to life a new, great part of this guide book.

Fabio Leoni. My long standing climbing partner and friend. You have always been my advisor over the years of these five editions of the guide book. Over there a great wall, over here they are bolting another one, phone that guy and ask him…. I have always asked you and you have always told me where they have opened this or that pitch. I would really have liked to have you officially on our team of authors. But as you say, it would have taken up too much time from your bolting and your two-wheeled trips. From Paola and your children, Chiara and Luca. It’s a pity. Even if I kept on at you long distance!

8

Simone Banal. Mountain guide. Always available. We were constantly at your house and it is a true pleasure to spend time with you. You live in Ranzo, a magnificent balcony overlooking the upper part of the Sarca Valley, one of the places which in the last ten years has become a vertical reference point of excellence with so many beautiful, quality rock faces. You are my lookout point up there. And by the way. Thank you also for those photos of the untiring Danilo Bonvecchio taken from your slide conference on the history of some of the most beautiful rock faces of the Upper Sarca Valley. It has been a great honour to have them for this Guide Book.

Mario Manica THANK YOU! You have given us a great help. With photos, topos, updates on the latest F.A. and grades, drawings, approach walks, last minute tips…Each one of you is in these pages narrating a story of great love and passion for rock and this land.

Thanks for your time!

Thanks to: Adam Ondra, Adriano Tavernini, Alessandro Ferraro, Alessandro Larcher, Alessandro Seiwald, Alejandro Ventajas Serrano, Alessia Mabboni, Alessio Defrancesco, Alexandra Ercolani, Alexandra Ladurner, Alice Prati, Alice Russolo, Alfredo Webber, Andrea Cattarossi, Andrea Chelleris, Andrea Cristoforetti, Andrea Moretto, Andrea Pegoretti, Andrea Vecchi,Andrea Zanetti, Angela Trawoeger, Angelika Rainer, Angelo Spadaro, Angelini Stefano, Annachiara Stenico, Barbara Maffei, Benedetta Lucarelli, Bianca Castro, Bruno Quaresima, Camilla Bendazzoli, Camilla Piva, Caracristi Claudio, Cesare Lotti, Cesar Grosso, Chiara Benedetto, Chiara Leoni, Claudio Kerschbaumer, Cristian Brenna, Cristian Dorigatti, Cristoph Heise, Danilo Bonvecchio, David Hechl, Davide Picco, Davide Negretti, Davide Stenico, Diego Borello, Diego Mabboni, Dir Ruffato, Domenico Tonelli, Domenik Nowak, Doriano Filippi, Edy Boldrin, Elena Congia, Eliseu Frecou, Elsa Giupponi, Emanuele Andreozzi, Enrico Turnaturi, Enrico Veronese, Eric Albertini, Eva Hammelmüller, Fabio Lasagni, Fabio Leoni, Federico Lunelli, Filippo Armellini, Filippo Frizzera, Filip Schenk, Flaminia Capezzuoli, Flavio Cainelli, Francesco Bacchini, Francesco Meschini, Francesco Morandi, Francesco Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro, Gardalife 360, Gardatrentino. it, Gerd Zimmermann, Geremia Vergoni, Gerhard Hörager, Giacomo Tonoli, Giacomo Raffa, Gianguido Dalfovo, Giampaolo Calza, Gianluca Vighetti, Gianluigi Rosa, Gianni Canale, Gianni Trentin, Gianni Antonioli, Giorgio Manica, Gruppo Overchalked, Hannah Bayha, Hector Silav Peralta, Heinz Mariacher, Ilenia Romeri, Ion Zabica, Jacopo Biserni, Jacob Klaris Jensen, Johanna Ratschiller, Johannes Klaris-Kehlet, Jorg Verhoeven, Judith Schmack, Laura Gatti, Laura Giunta, Leah Bickhove, Lea Kempf, Leon Müller, Linda Grossi, Lino Celva, Lorenzo De Bonis, Lorenzo Dalpiaz, Lorenzo Del Santo, Lorenz Manga, Lorenzo Inzigneri, Loris Manzana, Luca Bertacco, Luca Cesarini, Luca Coronella, Luca Giupponi, Luca Leonardi, Luca Leoni, Luca Onorevoli, Lucia Tassinari, Lucio Tonina, Luisa Iovane, Manrico Dellagnola, Marcello Luciani, Marco Ceremella, Marco Curti, Marco Eydallin, Marco Erspamer, Marco Ferrari, Marco Manfredini, Marco Faes, Marco Spataro, Markus Stadler, Martin Dejori, Martin Giovanazzi, Martino Grandesso, Massimo Faletti, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Giacomoni, Matteo Moccellin, Matthias Knaubert, Mattia Bonamone, Mattia Carraro, Maurizio Zanolla, Mauro Trainotti, Mauro Ratani, Michele Bort, Michele Caminati, Michele Chelleris, Michel Ghezzi, Michael Broemsen, Michael Piccolruaz, Mila Costi, Mirella Marsella, Moritz Sigmund, Natasha Bontadi, Nicola Parziani, Nicola Trenti, Nicolò Ventura, Ornella Ganarin, Paolo Visani, Patrik Billati, Peter Moser, Riccardo Piana, Riccardo Russo, Riky Felderer, Riky Piana, Roberto Avanzini, Roberto Righetto, Rocco Micheletto, Rolando Larcher, Ruben, Sara Grippo, Sauro Merighi, Schmidl Heiner, Severino Scassa, Silvia Loreggian, Silvia Miori, Silvio Reffo, Simone Banal, Simone Elmi, Simone Noventa, Sonia Manica, Stefan Scarperi, Stefan Zelger, Stefano Ghisolfi, Stefano Menegardi, Stefano Ragazzo, Stefano Salvaterra, Tatiana Caloi Stinchi, Thomas Petri, Tobias Lanzanasco, T. Prugnola, Urs Leuthaeusser, Valentina Bellotti, Wolf Jak.

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Index and topo The authors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Thanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Index according to exposure . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Road access and useful numbers . . . . . . . . 16 Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings . . . . . . . 20 F.A. of the hardest routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Reading scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

MASSONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

06.

Massone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Family San Martino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Terra Promessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Terra di Nessuno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Grottosauro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pandora - Pandoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36 58 62 70 80 82

100 99 101

102

ARCO - SAN PAOLO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

07.

08.

09.

10.

11.

12.

98

Massi di Prabi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Sport Roccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Swing Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Diamante del BA.RO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Piccola Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

CENIGA MONTE COLT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

Eremo di San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ceniga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ottava Meraviglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pizarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

La Cantina del Bibo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Epic Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

116 130 134 140 146 148 150

LAGHEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

10

Calvario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Muro dell'Asino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

L'Orto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Salt de la Cavra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Red Point Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

156 160 166 168 170

117 116

115 1

109 108 127 107 79

128

78 77 76

106 105 97 96

86-89 60 59 61-64 81-85

103104

95

53-58

94

129

68 90 67 91 66 65

74

80

130

122 123 118-121 124 125 126

75

73 48-52

92

71 72

93 47 69 70

46 24

111 112 110

114 113

45 13-19 23 09-11 03-06 12 22 21 20 02 01 25-30 07 08

34 35

40 31-33

41 36

42

37-39 43 44

11

Index and topo

PADARO - MANDREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

63.

64.

65.

66.

67.

68.

NAGO - TORBOLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

69.

70.

71.

72.

73.

74.

75.

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31.

32.

33.

34.

35.

36.

37.

38.

39.

40.

Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Le Piazzole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Mappamondo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Mandrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Placche di Baone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bus de la Stria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Le Trincee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Nago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Massi delle Traole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Passo San Giovanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pausapranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Torbole - DWS Torbole . . . . . . . . . . . .

Corno di Bò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Spiaggia delle Lucertole . . . . . . . . . .

Deep Water Soloing . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

180 202 206 210 214 218 226 236 252 258 264 268 272 276 278 284

VAL DI GRESTA - BRENTONICO . . . . . . . . . 286

41.

42.

43.

44.

Tassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Nomesino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Besagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crosano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

288 296 300 304

DRO - PIETRAMURATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312

45.

46.

47.

48.

49.

50.

51.

52.

La Fattoria degli Struzzi . . . . . . . . . . .

La Pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Massi di Gaggiolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Transatlantico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camerette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Muro di Chitarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Baule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Giardino di Nato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

314 316 320 324 326 330 332 334

SARCHE - LAGO DI TOBLINO . . . . . . . . . . . 338

53.

54.

55.

56.

57.

58.

59.

60.

61.

62.

12

Sisyphos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sarche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

La Panoramica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Il Posto delle Fragole . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Terre Alte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Limarò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Limarock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ghess Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Babilonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

340 344 346 348 352 354 368 372 374 378

Bassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

La Gola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Santa Massenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Climax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Il Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute . .

La Finestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

380 394 412 416 420 424

VALLE DI CAVEDINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 Castello di Drena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Doss Pelà . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

La Cosina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cavedine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

San Siro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Castel Madruzzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lagolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

430 432 438 442 444 452 454

TERLAGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456

76.

77.

78.

79.

80.

Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Canton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Prada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Baselga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

458 464 466 470 472

RANZO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474

81.

82.

83.

84.

85.

86.

87.

88.

89.

90.

91.

Il Sentiero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Il Vaticano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Il Bersaglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

La Terrazza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Herr Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Drago Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Margone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Coel dela Val dela Porta . . . . . . . . . . .

Teatro delle Marionette . . . . . . . . . . .

Lon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

476 480 484 488 490 504 506 508 510 514 518

VALLI GIUDICARIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520

92. Lundo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

93. Val Lomasone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

94. Comano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

95. Sunny Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

96. Riobianco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

97. Val d'Algone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

98. Coltura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

99. Croz de le Niere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100. Col del Frate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

101. Tione - Brevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

102. Breguzzo - Cengio de la Vecia . . . . . .

522 528 540 544 548 550 556 566 572 576 578

BANALE - MOLVENO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 582

103. Promeghin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

104. Falesia Dimenticata . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

105. Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

106. Lago Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

107. Molveno S. Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

108. Cavedago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

109. Spormaggiore - Sasedei . . . . . . . . . .

584 588 594 596 600 604 610

TENNO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612

110. San Pietro - Bastiani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614 111. Sanderland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618 112. Volta de' No' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 620

VAL DI LEDRO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 626

113. Regina del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

114. Rock & Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

115. Muro dei Caprioli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

116. Finale Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

117. Futur Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

628 636 638 646 650

TRENTO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652

118. La Placca che Spacca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 654 119. Cartoon Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656 120. Mescalisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660

121. Makkiodromo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

122. Calisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

123. Feudo, Drago Nascosto, Scudo,... . . .

124. Forti di Civezzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

125. Muro dei 70 Scalini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

126. Celva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

127. Zambanetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

128. Zambana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

129. La Vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

130. Bus de Vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

662 664 666 672 686 688 696 698 706 716

The protagonists Gerhard Hörhager. Underground, from the bowels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Alessia Mabboni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Heinz Mariacher. Superswing, Swing’s daughter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Chatting to Stefano Ghisolfi . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Fabio Leoni. One for all . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Michel Ghezzi. “My” Bassilandia in 8 routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Danilo Bonvecchio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Giorgio Manica. Futura, butterfly wings . . 410 Adam Ondra. Bomba and Bombardino . . 434 Climb & Clean, an example to be followed . 702

Pandora, Roni Andres, Barely Legal, 8a (© Dir Ruffato)

13

Index according to exposure NORTH 60. Limarock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372

NORTH-EAST 22. L'Orto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

NORTH EAST 07. Massi di Prabi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

NORTH-WEST 12. Piccola Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 94. Comano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 125. Muro dei 70 Scalini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 686

WEST 04. Terra di Nessuno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 21. Muro dell'Asino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 24. Red Point Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 32. Nago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 37. Torbole - DWS Torbole . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 38. Corno di Bò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 72. Cavedine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 75. Lagolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 87. Drago Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 92. Lundo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 93. Val Lomasone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528 100. Col del Frate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 103. Promeghin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584 109. Spormaggiore - Sasedei . . . . . . . . . . 610 116. Finale Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 646

SOUTH 02.

05.

29.

34.

35.

36.

39.

41.

42.

44.

70.

71.

73.

77.

14

Family San Martino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Grottosauro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Placche di Baone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Passo San Giovanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Pausapranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Spiaggia delle Lucertole . . . . . . . . . . 278 Tassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Nomesino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Crosano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Doss Pelà . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 La Cosina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 San Siro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Canton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464

80. Baselga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88. Margone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

99. Croz de le Niere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

104. Falesia Dimenticata . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

113. Regina del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

118. La Placca che Spacca . . . . . . . . . . . . .

119. Cartoon Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

120. Mescalisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

121. Makkiodromo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

124. Forti di Civezzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

126. Celva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

472 508 566 588 628 654 656 660 662 672 688

SOUTH-EAST 01. Massone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 25. Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 26. Le Piazzole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 61. Ghess Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 62. Babilonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 63. Bassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 69. Castello di Drena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 76. Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 79. Prada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 86. Herr Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 95. Sunny Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 102. Breguzzo - Cengio de la Vecia . . . . . . 578 105. Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594

SOUTH EAST 30. Bus de la Stria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51. Baule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

78. Monte Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

106. Lago Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

108. Cavedago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

112. Volta de' No' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

218 332 466 596 604 620

SOUTH-WEST 03. Terra Promessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 74. Castel Madruzzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 81. Il Sentiero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 84. La Terrazza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 83. Il Bersaglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 82. Il Vaticano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 85. Ranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 111. Sanderland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618 114. Rock & Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 636 122. Calisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 123. Feudo, Drago Nascosto, Scudo,... . . . 666 130. Bus de Vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716

SOUTH SOUTH-WEST 06. Pandora - Pandoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

EAST 08.

09.

10.

11.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

23.

27.

28.

45.

46.

48.

49.

50.

52.

53.

54.

55.

56.

57.

Sport Roccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Swing Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Diamante del BA.RO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Eremo di San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Ceniga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Ottava Meraviglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pizarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 La Cantina del Bibo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Monte Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Epic Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Calvario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Salt de la Cavra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Mappamondo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Mandrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 La Fattoria degli Struzzi . . . . . . . . . . . 314 La Pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Transatlantico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Camerette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Muro di Chitarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Giardino di Nato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sisyphos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Sarche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 La Panoramica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Il Posto delle Fragole . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352

58. Terre Alte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

65. Santa Massenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66. Climax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

67. Il Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute . .

68. La Finestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40. Deep Water Soloing . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

43. Besagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90. Teatro delle Marionette . . . . . . . . . . .

91. Lon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

96. Riobianco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

97. Val d'Algone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

101. Tione - Brevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

107. Molveno S. Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

117. Futur Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

127. Zambanetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

128. Zambana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

129. La Vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

354 412 416 420 424 284 300 514 518 548 550 576 600 650 696 698 706

EAST NORTH-EAST 110. San Pietro - Bastiani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614

VARIOUS 31. Le Trincee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33. Massi delle Traole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47. Massi di Gaggiolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

59. Limarò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

64. La Gola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

89. Coel dela Val dela Porta . . . . . . . . . . .

98. Coltura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

115. Muro dei Caprioli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

226 252 320 368 394 510 556 638

INTERNATIONAL LAND-AIR RESCUE SIGNS FOR HELICOPTERS AND PLANES WE NEED HELP Land-air signs

Red flare or light

Yes

WE DON’T NEED HELP Land-air signs

No Red material / red flag Square shape 100x100cm.

Red central circle (60cm diameter).

White ring 15cm

15

Road access and useful numbers Depending on the area we are dealing with, we have identified common starting points and from these calculated the distances. The information was updated as far as March 2022, but cannot guarantee the viability is unchanged. The choice of parking places is based on respect for private property and road conditions.

Arco - Dro - Valle dei Laghi - Riva del Garda - Nago - Torbole - Val di Ledro – Tenno - Valle di Cavedine - Terlago – Ranzo The starting point for the crags in these locations is Arco, in particular from the bridge over the river Sarca (large car park) easily identified. Arriving from the A22 Modena-Brennero motorway, exit at Rovereto Sud - Lago di Garda Nord. Follow directions for Lago di Garda, then Arco. Approx. 22 km.

Arriving from A22 Brennero-Modena exit at Trento Nord. Follow signs for Trento Centro and take exit n.6. Then follow signs for Riva del Garda (State road 45 Bis) until you get to Arco. approx.38km.

Valli Giudicarie The starting point for almost all the crags in this area is Sarche, at the junction for Madonna di Campiglio. Arriving from the A22 Modena-Brennero motorway, exit at Rovereto Sud - Lago di Garda Nord. Follow directions for Lago di Garda, then Arco. Approx. 22 km. From Arco continue along the SS45 Bis, towards Trento, as far as Sarche. Approx. 38 km. Arriving from the A 22 Brennero-Modena motorway exit at Trento Nord. Follow signs for Trento Centro and take exit n.6. Then follow signs for Riva del Garda (State road 45 Bis) until you reach Sarche. approx 22 km.

Molveno The starting point for the Nembia, Lago Nembia, Molveno, Cavedago, Spormaggiore crags, is the exit San Michele- Mezzocorona of the A22 Motorway Modena-Brennero (Brennero- Modena).

Trento The starting point for the crags in this area is the exit Trento Centro, of the A 22 Modena-Brennero (Brennero-Modena) motorway.

Trento The starting point for the crags of this area is the entrance of the motorway toll Trento Centro to the A22 Modena-Brennero (Brennero-Modena). Parking ex Zuffo Area.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Single Emergency number 112 Carabinieri 112 Police 113 Fire service 115 Environmental Emergency 1515 Medical Assistance 118 Brennero Motorway 800 279940 (from Germany, Austria, Netherlands: 00-800-22022022)

16

Bibliography Emanuelli Giuliano, Calzà Sergio (a cura di), Vie di roccia e grotte dell’Alto Garda, S.A.T Sez. Arco 1983 Bassi Roberto, Arrampicare in Valle di Sarca: sul bianco calcare di Arco e dintorni, Zanichelli 1984 Depretto Diego, Guida all’arrampicata sportiva nel Basso Sarca, Alto Garda 1987 Hörhager Gerhard, Muller Wolfgang, Arco-Topos: Kletterführer, Odysee Alpinverlag 1987 Depretto Diego, Arco: le nuove falesie d’arrampicata, Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini 1990 Depretto Diego, Guida all’arrampicata sulle Placche Zebrate, Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini 1991 Heinkel Matthias, Klettern am Gardasee (vom Gardasee bis nach Sarche), Heinkel 1991 Heinkel 1993 Depretto Diego, Arco falesie: le nuove falesie d’arrampicata, Editore Higas 1994, 1996 Manzana Loris, Arco: guida di arrampicata, Ed. La Grafica 1995, 1997 Depretto Diego, Arco falesie: i luoghi dell’arrampicata sportiva, Edizioni Adventures 1999 Rabanser Ivo, Alpinismo tra gli olivi: arrampicate scelte in Valle del Sarca, Centro del Libro (IS) 2001 Camerini Fausto, Stenghel Giuliano, Il grido del Gabbiano, Associazione Serenella Onlus 2001 Camerini Fausto, Stenghel Giuliano, Il Garda verticale, ZetaBeta Editrice srl 2002

Belvedere, Alice Prati (© Nicola Trenti)

18

Filippi Diego, Pareti del Sarca. Vie classiche e moderne nella valle del Sarca, Versante Sud 2002, 2007 Meisl Michael, Lochner Martin, Arco-Klettern vom Gardasee bis zur Brenta, Lochner-Verlag 2005 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Falesie di Arco, Versante Sud 2006 Haladaj Mateuz, Arco Boulder Guidebook, Wydawnictwo Gory, 2009 Haladaj Mateuz, Arco New Sector Guidebook, Wydawnictwo Gory, 2009 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Falesie di Arco 106 proposte, Versante Sud 2010 Grill Heinz, Arrampicare in Valle del Sarca, Idea Montagna Senettin Manuel, Hofer Thomas, Best of Arco, Vertical-Life 2013 Rabanser Ivo, Arrampicare in Valle del Sarca, Atesia 2013 Filippi Diego, Arco Pareti. Vie classiche moderne e sportive in Valle del Sarca, Versante Sud 2013 Senettin Manuel, Hofer Thomas, Arco Summer Spots, Vertical-Life 2013 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Arco Falesie 113 proposte, Versante Sud 2015 Alessio Conz, Trento Falesie, Ed. Effe e Erre – Trento, 2016 Matteo Pavana, Sport climbing in Arco, Vertical-Life 2017 Filippi Diego, Arco Pareti. Vie classiche moderne e sportive in Valle del Sarca, Vol. 1 e 2, Versante Sud 2020 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Arco Falesie 136 proposte, Versante Sud 2018 Meisl Michael, Arco, Sportklettern vom Gardasee bis zur Brenta, Meisl 2021

Massone, Davide Picco, Pure Dreaming Plus, 9a (© Luca Rigo)

19

The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings

by Antonella Cicogna

The single pitch crags in Valle del Sarca and the nearby areas are something that youngsters have always known. A fact. However, it all had a beginning, An instant which moved from its origin of what today is among the most popular climbing parks in Europe and the world. And this instant can be translated into a change of perspective from alpinism.

1972 and 1982 The turning point: Colodri east face and Specchio delle mie brame In 1972, exactly on the 1st October of that year, something happens. The alpinists Ugo and Mauro Ischia, Giuliano Emanuelli and Fabio Calzà from Arco realize the potential of Monte Colodri, the local mountain, and open Umberta Bertamini, the first route on the east face. The route up the east face of Colodri in the vertical panorama is a first, it is a turning point for the future development of single pitches in Valle del Sarca. From here onwards the east face will in fact be covered by new beautiful lines; through time it will collect the intuitions of many other climbers among these Giuliano Stenghel, Luigi Giacomelli, Franco Zenatti, Giovanni Groaz, Roberto Bassi, Heinz Mariacher, Manolo Maurizio Zanolla, Renzo Vettori, Giorgio Vaccari... The difficulties will increase, routes such as Tyszkyewicz (1976), Renata Rossi (1979), White Crack (1979) will appear...

And in 1982, always on Colodri, a new turning point: the first sports climbing route opened from above in the Sarca Valley. Its name is Specchio delle mie brame, a variant of Renata Rossi. The authors are Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher. The two climbers place an expansion bolt to open the route.

Early eighties Single pitches in the vertical vocabulary. Honky Tonky, full on bolting Between 1982 and 1984, as well as the continuous development of multi pitch routes at Monte Casale, Cima alle Coste, in Mandrea, Colodri on Parete Zebrata with increasingly sustained difficulties, another change of scene occurs. The terrain on which these challenges are tackled lower down on “sea level”, the difficulties are concentrated along a few dozen metres. Single pitch routes become the new word in the vocabulary of climbing. A close-knit group of climbers contribute to this development, they already climb on Colodri: Mariacher, Bassi. With them Luisa Iovane, Manolo, Aldo Leviti.... Entirely bolted the new route Honky Tonky at Spiaggia delle Lucertole is born, equipped by Bassi and Mauro De Gasperi. New modern crags in a modern sense are born: Nuovi Orizzonti, San Paolo, Swing Area, Spiaggia delle Lucertole.

On lines which still to this day are true masterpieces of 7a, 7b and 7c, rocky jewels for those who have perfect footwork and confidence climbing on slabs, the first rules of sports climbing thus develop. Routes will be graded following the grading scale used in France, where sports climbing has already begun to flourish. Climbing ethics will have a new type of flavour: you can only climb from the ground up without resting, and if you fall you have to start all over again. New smeary climbing shoes, step after step, will follow the progress of climbing in the Valley. Chalk, sit har- nesses and leggings begin to appear.

20

Mid eighties La Gola, Massone, and the first overhangs If part of the historic group of climbers (Manolo, Mariacher, Iovane) leaves Arco, near the end of 1984 Roberto Bassi will improve La Gola in Toblino (Guardrail) who has already seen the hands of Mariacher and Manolo (Tursen, 007, Don Camillo). In the meantime another crag in the area of Arco will be part of the climbers’ lives thanks to the intuition of Giovanni Groax and Dammy Zampiccoli: Massone.

And it will be thanks to Diego Depretto (who in the meantime will develop Colodri South and will continue bolting Nuovi Orizzonti, which began thanks to Aldo Leviti and Renato Bernard, very busy) that many sectors of this incredible bastion of golden coloured rock will develop. With an ever increasing offer of single pitch routes of varying difficulties, the Sarca Valley will become a well known and popular area for climbers from all over the world. The Remy brothers, Jerry Moffat, Ron Fawcett, Wolfgang Güllich, Patrick Edlinger all come to open and try and the new routes…New ideas and experiences, new styles will contaminate climbing in the Valley. As well as slab climbing, overhang climbing starts to develop. And the drill will be introduced as part of the equipment needed to open routes.

Mid ‘80s -1990 Sport Roccia 86; the first free ascents from 8a to 8b/+ 1986: is the second year that an international climbing competition is held in Italy. After Bardonecchia (which sees the birth of the first ever international sports climbing competition thanks to an idea of Andrea Mellano, from the Italian Academic Alpine Club, in partnership with the sports journalist Emanuele Cassarà) it is now the turn of the Sarca Valley, together with Bardonecchia. Below Colodri (Sport Roccia 86) 150 challengers from different countries will take part in the competition which will see Patrick Edlinger win. It will be the rock stadium of the Rock Master (born from an

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21

The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings

idea developed by Mario Morandini, Ennio Lattisi, Sergio Calzà, Giuliano Emanuelli, Giuseppe Filippi, Angelo Seneci, Albino Marchi – first edition 1987) and of all the events connected to this large event.

But it is not the only new happening. The group of climbers, route openers and those discovering the new crags in the Valley continues to grow. Rolando Larcher, Danilo Bonvecchio, Diego Mabboni, Giorgio Manica...And the vertical ferment promoted by them will bring precious fruition.

Larcher, in 1986, will free in September Elephant Baby 8a at San Paolo and in November Gravity Games 8a+ (today 8b/+ because it was modified by Legrand) at the Eremo of San Paolo. These are the first routes to be chipped in the Valley, but above all it is the first 8a’s and 8a+s. The successive year at La Gola, with the free ascent of Futura 8b (today 8a+), Bassi will prove once again to be the undisputed magician of slabs, while new crags will carve the stage extending the panorama of single pitch routes from south to north of the Valley. Bassi discovers Santa Massenza, Stefano Pegoretti San Siro. Both crags will develop thanks to Danilo Bonvecchio, who discovered and bolted the magnificent Terlago. On the other side, Nomesino in Val di Gresta, born thanks to the intuition of Ermanno Dossi and Giuliano Dorigatti, becomes a great hit among the top climbers. Larcher in 1988 will free the 8b Energia = MC2 (after climbing in spring time the first natural 8a : Fafifurni, bolted by Angelo Giovannetti at Passo San Giovanni). Diego Depretto discovers Nago and begins to bolt it, with the successive intervention of Luigi Colò in the upper section.

The eighties will end with the free ascent on the 14th of February 1989 of Maratona 8b+ (now 8b) by Larcher at Mas- sone (first route in the Il Pueblo sector in 1987) and Mojado 8b/+ by Bassi at La Gola.

The first routes of that difficulty in the Valley.

1990-1995 Bolting and rebolting… from Arco Roc to Sisyphos. And overhangs reign supreme While in 1991 Rolando Larcher free climbs Super Maratona 8b+ at Massone, the activity of opening and bolting new crags and routes will continue simultaneously with the ever increasing turnout of climbers equipped even with gri-gris. Massone, Nago, Spiaggia delle Lucertole, San Siro, Baone, Passo San Giovanni, Crosano, are fixed and re-bolted thanks to Arco Roc and Depretto and Camillo Mattei. Bassi and his friends in 1994 all together will start to re bolt La Gola. The climbers are Bonvecchio, Larcher, Marco Curti, Mauro Turri, Andrea Stenico. All under the name “Gruppo Sisyphos”, Just like the King of Corinth Sisyphos, condemned by Zeus to the never ending and onerous task of stopping the course of an enormous boulder which rolls down without respite from one side of the mountain to the other. The crags in fact have been discovered, but they need to be bolted then re-bolted to maintain their state. A very costly affair, and practically everything is paid from the bolter’s own pocket. A never ending affair, never ending just like Sisyphos’s. And when Bassi will lose his life in a road accident that same year, Sisyphos will go on for a few more years thanks to the energy and spirit of its founder. In 1995 Fabio Leoni, Roland Galvagni, Daniele Lira, Michele Cagol and many others will be part of the group. In the shop Vertical Sport which Leoni has recently inaugurated at Pietra Murata money is collected for the projects of creating new crags, and for re-bolting the new crags. New sectors are born: Transatlantico, Muro di Chitarra, Giardino di Nato, il Diamante del BA.RO, the wall of Sisyphos, Camerette, Cavedine, Lon. Bonvecchio bolts Margone and Cavedine. La Gola will continue to grow... Many of the crags are opened on private land, and it is also thanks to the availability of the land owners who confide in climbers’ good manners that climbing on single pitches will continue to offer an increasingly and ever growing panorama to mixed group of climbers. The large overhangs bolted by Depretto in the upper part of Massone in 1993 attract an increasingly large number of climbers, while overhangs become popular among the top climbers.

From 1995 to the end of the millennium Terra Promessa is born, il Pueblo expands. And what seems like the first 9a is climbed Reinhold, Reini Scherer and François Legrand will form during the second half of the nineties a winning partnership. It is thanks to Scherer that in 1995 the sector Pueblo at Massone is systematically

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Via Giovanni Segantini, n° 41, 38062 Arco TN 23

The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings

24

bolted, originally inaugurated by Larcher. It is thanks to François, together with Reinhold, that in 1997 the first super overhanging pitches at Terra Promessa are bolted, Reini’s Vibes 8c/+ at Massone and Claudio Caffè 8c/+ at Terra Promessa, freed by Legrand while he prepared for the ’97 Rock Master which he went on to win, are the maximum difficulties in the Valley at the moment.

But just one year later, Massone will register another record in the history of climbing. Manfred Stuffer on Underground, a route which requires great athletic strength on nice holds to be held for a number of minutes. The line (bolted by Reini Scherer and Gerhard Hörhager) starts from the bowels of the earth with difficult boulder sequences which lead to an enormous overhang.

It seems to be the first 9a in the Valley and awaits repetitions to confirm its grade. The millennium ends with new crags. Among these Red Point Wall: while a beautiful crag overlooking Toblino Lake is dedicated to Roberto Bassi: Bassilandia. Fabio Leoni and Gianguido Dalfovo bolt the majority of the routes, but even Larcher, Curti, Lino Celva, Michele Cagol take part in the bolting. All well known names in the Valley, climbers who climb, bolt and repeat. The crags of Sarche and Limarock are born. Bonvecchio goes ahead with a project which started some time ago and develops into Climax.

A thousand more 2000-2009: New free ascents of overhangs and slabs, reaching 8c+/9a Giampaolo Calzà rebolts San Paolo and the Pilastro delle Vergini. Sauro Merighi will discover and bolt the crags of Grottosauro and Ottava Meraviglia; Gianguido Dalfovo and Lino Celva bolt La Pizzeria. Bonvecchio and Simone Banal will concentrate their energies on the new sector at Ranzo, adding new routes to Limarock and rebolting Santa Massenza (together with Fabio Leoni). The great wall of Tassilandia, with Verdon style routes on com- pact and grey rock of medium difficulty, Narango, is bolted by Domenico Tonelli and partners, offering climbers a breath taking view over the basin of Nago and the Upper Garda area.

The difficult cave of Coel dela Val dela Porta will be added (Larcher, Bonvecchio and partners) requiring endurance and finger strength on overhangs. And new difficult free ascents will enter the vertical history of this area. In 2003 Christian Bindhammer signs Zauberfee 8c+, (now 8c+/9a) to the super difficult and super over- hanging crag Eremo di San Paolo. During that year it is the Valley’s second most difficult route (first free ascent by Angela Eiter in 2014). Gianguido Dalfovo, the specialist of difficult routes on vertical walls and slabs in 2005 at Bassilandia will free Compañero 8b. In the meantime Nicolas Favresse will free Biologico 8a+, the most difficult trad/bolt route in the Valley of the moment, which he will open two minutes from Eremo di San Paolo. And then in 2008 Andreas Bindhammer will climb St.Anger 8c/9a+ (now 8c+), always at Eremo, making a dream come true which he has been working on. Difficulties above 8b and two sequences which according to Bindhammer, reach the 8th grade on the bouldering scale of difficulty.

Other great projects will be climbed. A few bolted some years earlier by Roberto Bassi himself. This is the case of Madame doc 8b, on the smooth wall of Pezzent Area (Gola di Toblino) freed in 2008 by Cristian Giovannini. Always in 2008 on an extraordinary rock face covered in edges, Favresse will free an old project of Bonvecchio, Thin Ice (Terlago). This route in 2009, will be repeated a few days one from the other, by Riccardo Scarian, Manolo and Gianguido Dalfovo, confirming the beauty and grading it 8c. In April of 2009, Riccardo Scarian will climb Adidas 8b+at Coel dela Val dela Porta, which in a few years time has become one of the reference points for strong climbers in the area of Arco.

In the meantime, the scene of climbers who are able to enjoy the crags in the Valley is offering a variegated and flowing mix of people, with a continuous increase of foreign climbers. Other crags develop thanks to the initiative of private bolters. Among these Piccola Dallas and the nice Babilonia (Leoni), Castello di Drena and Mandrea (Merighi). While Regina del Lago, near Lake Ledro and Riva del Garda, and Belvedere in the lower sector (sector B) contribute to increasing the easier routes in Valle del Sarca. In 2009 the six administrative offices of Garda Trentino, directed by the Azienda di Promozione Turistica (now Garda), established a permanent work table to plan the development of infrastructures

for sports and outdoor activities. That is how the Outdoor Park Garda Trentino (OPGT) project is born, which sees among other things the upkeep and enhancement of some crags in the Lower Sarca area (developing the work which had started years before thanks to the administrative offices in the year 2000 with a programme that had been developed during the end of the eighties). The crags which are included in the OPGT are the following; Massone, Massi di Prabi, Placche di Baone, Muro dell’Asino, Calvario, Nago, Belvedere, Corno di Bò, Spiaggia delle lucertole, Passo San Giovanni. Baone enters the project “Crags without barriers” and will make it possible for disabled people to access the crags.

2010 – 2014 Top challenges: Nago, Bus de la Stria, Coel dela Val dela Porta, Grottosauro, La Gola, Padaro Nago returns to the headlines with Bucking Bronco, No Hope Goat Farm, Warbeast: three 8c+ routes (now respectively 8c, 8c/+, 8b+/c) opened and freed by the German Markus Bock who on the boulder where Rolando Larcher bolted and freed the Mangusta, 8c, and on the nearby boulders he opened new lines for those who love bouldery routes. At Bus de la Stria instead, Bock frees MG Connection 8b+ at the new sector Hotel Olivo. The Austrian Gerhard Hörhager developed it, he will go on to free Pappataci and Conti d’Arco (8b), other top climbers such as David Lama visit the crag (he frees Liftscheisser which is 8b) and Adam Ondra (one of the projects is his). Overhangs once again take over the scene. Larcher had already made the F.A. of Patagonia 8b/c, at Coel dela Val dela Porta frees Amen-Patagonia 8b+. While at Grottosauro Paolo Benvenuti frees Insostenibile debolezza dell’essere 8c, which for years had remained one of Larcher’s projects. But Dalfovo goes back to the origins of climbing and at La Gola bolts and frees in 2013 L’orizzonte degli eventi 8b/c. And while the strong climber Silvio Reffo repeats in one day Bucking Bronco and Warbeast, the challenges increase on the immense bastion of Padaro (initially born thanks to the intuition of Diego and Mauro Mabboni, then bolted by the Germans Holger Brink and Olaf Zeddies). It is Paolo Benvenuti who develops most of the new, difficult routes here, freed by him, such as Enhorabuena and Matasanos (both 8b+). For those who love winter climbing, instead, the area of Ranzo opens Roberto Bassi (© Marco Curti)

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The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings

26

the doors to new crags. Among these Il Vaticano thanks to the initiative of Bonvecchio, Celva, Banal, Alessandro Lucchi and Larcher. The vertical panorama “parallel” to the Sarca Valley is for ever growing.

Here and there, with grades and difficulties to satisfy everyone. Roni Andres and Alessandro Gandolfo dedicate their energies to the great walls of Volta de’ No’ and add some great high difficulty routes. Here they free Svolta di no’ 8b+, Scatush 8b, Comunque dada 8b+ (Alessandro); Set me free 8b+ (Roni).

Valerio Ballardini ups the level just outside Trento. He is the father of Bus de Vela (Cadine): forty one routes of which half are from 8b upwards, and many signed by Gabriele Moroni. Valerio dedicates his time also to Forti di Civezzano, then to Monte Terlago, Prada, in many pitches Luca Forti follows him. On Monte Calisio, Trento, there is the group of Drunken Climber, Cristiano Casagranda is their representative. Among their great discoveries, the crag of Mescalisio, with fun routes from 6a to 6b. Without forgetting the walls like Celva, historical, opened when climbing outside the Sarca Valley seemed impossible.

And it was here that Rolando Larcher had freed one of the first Italian 8c’s L’arte di salire in alto in 1992 (bolted by Angelo Giovannetti). It is here that since twenty five years from his first climb, Roland frees in 2006 the route 25°Anniversario, always 8c. And the wall of Celva has some surprises (keep on reading).

2015 – 2018 4x 9a, 3x 9a+, 2x 9b’s are climbed If Underground has been graded 8c+/9a for quite some time now by the climbers who have repeated it, during March 2015 the turning point with a capital T will occur in terms of difficulty. Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Under Vibes, 40 metres, 9a: it starts from Underground and comes out onto Reini’s Vibes. Massone is still the king. But Under Vibes will not be the only 9a that year. During November another 9a will be climbed, this time by Gabriele Moroni at Nago: Sid Lives (today 8c+).

Just over a year will pass before the Valley can celebrate another new 9a. It is the 16 December 2016.

It is Stefano Ghisolfi once again who signs this new chapter, at Pueblo with Thunder Ribes (today 8c+).

It is a link up of Reini’s Vibes (route of reference for the area opened by François Legrand), L’Ultima Pietra and Stonehenge; these were created thanks to the effort and passion of the local climbers such as Alfredo Webber and Alessandro Corradini Just a few days later, on the 19th December in the history of this crag the first 9a + will appear with Ultimatum, always climbed by Stefano. The news that sports climbing will be included in the Tokyo Olympic Games 2020 will give impulse once again to sports climbing even in the Sarca Valley.

In the meantime, awareness is increasing among the local administrations, that climbing is a resource for the local economy. Not only by those who have signed the project Outdoor Park Garda Trentino (even the Comunità di Valle Alto Garda and Ledro, and the Comune di Ledro join) and new crags dedicated to families are being developed (Massi del Gaggiolo, Family San Martino, Family Doss Pelà, Massi delle Traole). Now institutionally we are moving further north of the territory. The Comunità della Valle dei Laghi has joined forces with the communes of Madruzzo, Vallelaghi and Cavedine, to enhance a few of the vertical assets in the territory. The historic crag of La Gola will be entirely re bolted and new routes of contained difficulties will be added. With a great job of cleaning and bolting, the wall at Castel Madruzzo is born with the aim of sustaining climbing on medium-easy grades. Other projects are awaiting to be officially presented. It is true team work between the “Palace” and those who work daily in outdoor sports and on the field. With Simone Banal, who in this field has a precious role of raising awareness.

And if the number of family users grows, now sustained increasingly by public financing, the crags which have been discovered, bolted and rebolted by private individuals (and this is the majority) don’t stop. And the private individuals, as always are not subsidised, if not by their great passion and generosity. Everything comes out of their pocket (or almost). The pitches bolted by Michel Ghezzi at Ghess Wall and the many beautiful routes which Michel opens on the left hand side sectors of Bassilandia.

Once again Roni Andres and Alessandro Gandolfo leave their mark and open the wall of Pizarra, in the woods above the rock face of San Paolo, between Ottava Meraviglia and Colt, with routes up to 8c.

To the tireless Merighi goes the merit of having encouraged the turning point at Padaro, now among the most climbed rock face in the Valley on high difficulties collecting the baton from Paolo Benvenu-

ti. At least fifty pitches are his, and even the first ascents, with Cuore Impavido 8b on top of the list.

There is no point in saying that other new First Ascents on slabs and overhangs (see dedicated page) will enter with full right in the vertical registry office of the Valley (and not only) even for the year 2017. At the Gotico Sector of Padaro, Ghisolfi who by now has moved permanently to Arco from Turin, will climb Omen Nomen 9a in mid March 2017 making its first ascent. First repetition in April of the same year by Silvio Reffo. But even Massone does not disappoint, and Alfredo Webber at the age of 48 climbs his first 9a with Thunder Vibes (today 8c+) at Il Pueblo. Here we wish to remind everyone of two projects which were bolted over twenty years ago by Bassi, freed respectively by the determined Dalfovo at the nice crag of Santa Massenza (Via Gilette, October 2017) and by Peter Moser in the nice crag of Celva (Progetto Bassi, February 2017).

2017 will be also remembered for the Laghel wall, which will give us the first 9b’s of the Valley and Arco. And it will happen with Queen Line bolted by Mauro Mabboni: 17 super intense moves which Adam Ondra will climb as a F.A. on the 18th April. And it will be on these rocks that a few days later Stefano Ghisolfi will free One Punch 9a+. Followed by One Slap 9b yet again by Ondra. During the first few months of 2018 Il Pueblo will play a key role with the free ascent of Puro Dreaming 9a and Puro Dreaming Plus 9a+ once again by Ondra (today respectively 8c+ and 9a). Ghisolfi will achieve the first repetition of Pure Dreaming in July. And in the meantime the amount of crags will increase. Among these, hidden inside a canyon above Nago, Mauro Trainotti and Andrea Vecchi discover Le Trincee which over time will offer 70 lines excellently bolted from 5b to 8b.

2019 – 2021 The Eremo of San Paolo sees 2x 9b and 1x 9a+. Padaro 2x 9a+ On the 26th February 2019 Ghisolfi will make the first repetition of Queen Line 9b. But, while the project King Line (possible 9c) always at Laghel is in the air, news arrives that the wall is no longer accessible, since the land owners have forbidden any access to it. In the meantime Sid Lives is repeated on the 23rd March by Stefano Carnati and Silvio Reffo who suggest the difficulty of 8c+ instead of 9a (suggestion which was approved also by Ondra in September 2020), while Matteo Menardi makes the first repetition of Thunder Vibes (today 8c+).

In the meantime the number of crags increase. Ceniga, Pizarra, Ottava Meraviglia, Bassilandia, Padaro see new routes develop. And even when, on March 2020, the Covid-19 pandemic will impose many bans and block many accesses, when things open up again the activity on rock will flourish.

Stefano Ghisolfi will concentrate on the super overhanging crag of Eremo di San Paolo. And on the 22 May 2020 he will make the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+ (today 9a+), placing his first bolt to connect the lines of St Anger and Zauberfee which he had redpointed shortly before. Two months later, Stefano will leave his name on the F.A. of 9a+ of The Bow, the link up between Fine di un’epoca 8b and Omen Nomen 9a, with the crux being where the two lines connect, with a cross over which forces to make a characteristic and very difficult bowing move.

In the meantime sports climbing marks another historical date in the valley. The FASI (Italian sports climbing Federation) will manage Arco’s Climbing Stadium, the Rock Master structure, and it will be used as the federal centre for Olympic training and preparation to the Games of Tokyo and Paris, as well as the training centre of the senior and junior national climbing teams. The Olympic representatives for the Italian team have been picked: Laura Rogora, who in the meantime has moved from Rome to Trento; Michael Piccolruaz, Ludovico Fossali. The Olympic Games though will be postponed due to the Covid-19 emergency until 2021, but the athletes here in Arco feel at home and do not lose their motivation. Laura Rogora makes the first female ascent of Underground (then climbed flash by Alexander Megos in September). Laura will be the first Italian to climb the 9a+ of Pure Dreaming Plus at the end of May. She will also make the first female ascent of Riflessi and Terra Piatta at Pizarra. And the first female ascent of The Bow on the 22nd November. In the meantime other great walls add to the Valley’s vertical treasure.

Danilo Bonvecchio, among the most prolific bolters of the upper part of the Valley and his friend Gianguido Dalfovo continue the hard work that Andrea Zanetti had started and develop some great

27

The history of single pitch routes in the Sarca Valley and its surroundings

pitches from 7a to 8c at the crag of Lundo, which lies at the start of the Val Lomasona, offering endurance climbing on an unmissable vertical wall.

And once again, Danilo and Gianguido at Bassilandia put their name on the Masada Sector, with unique pitches covered in sharp crimps; as well as the Pilastro Frollo at Limarò. At Sarche, the rock face which can be seen by everyone, Terre Alte, comes from the hard work that Fabio Leoni put into bolting a hundred or so routes destined to be among the most popular of northern Italy. Above Massone, Lorenzo de Bonis gives us Pandora and Pandoro with his friend Alessandro Seiwald; new routes at Terre di Nessuno reclaimed from an old project of Bassi and then Merighi, involving Nicola Trenti in the work; the cave of Pausapranzo above the Lake of Loppio. And then Mappamondo whose potential has been recognized by Francesco Morandi. And other new crags.

2021 begins and ends with other amazing results. Erebor, the first line entirely bolted by Ghisolfi under the skillful guidance of Severino Scassa, and will be freed by Stefano on the 11th January at the Eremo of San Paolo, suggesting 9b/+ (today 9b). On the 21st March Ghisolfi once again will leave his mark and make the F.A. of Terapia d’urto 9a+ at Padaro, link-up of two lines bolted by Marco Erspamer: Goosfraba 8c+ (F.A. Ghisolfi 9.11.2020) and L’Arciere difficult 8c (F.A. Gabriele Moroni 5.07.2020) at the La Prua-Mazinga Sector. First female ascent by Laura Rogora three weeks later. Always in March Alfredo Webber, the strong climber from Val di Non with many F.A. at Il Pueblo, will solo at the age of 52 the 8b+/c of Panem et circensis (today 8b) at the slab of Pizarra. Webber is the only climber in Italy who has achieved such an incredible feat. And while Davide Picco and Giovanni Placci climb Omen Nomen, the twelve year old Andrea Chelleris and the thirteen year old Gianluca Vighetti make the RP of Pure Dreaming, respectively on the 19th July 2021 and on the 19th September 2021. In the meantime, the Tokyo Olympic Games are over. Italy’s team results were not fabulous, but they built a lot and are already thinking about Paris 2024, with the Training centre for the national team as their base in Arco. In September Lauro Rogora frees Iron Man at Bus de Vela, suggesting 9a. Then it is the turn of Erebor, the Roman climber who now lives in Trentino, will make the first female ascent on the 4th October, With the successive repetition of Erebor by Ondra on the 9th November 2021, the line will be graded 9b. At the end of 2021 even the other grades will be changed: Pure Dreaming will be now 8c+; Pure Dreaming Plus a 9a, Thunder Vibes an 8c+. The 2021 ends with another great result: The Lonely Mountain. The beginning and end are in common with Erebor, the central section changes, which is more difficult and intense. Ghisolfi will go on to free it on the 17th December, after months of ruthless courting. More difficult than Erebor, Stefano suggests the grade of 9b. And Ondra confirms its difficulties by repeating it on the 28th December just before the end of the year.

Author’s Note The current “History of single pitche routes” finishes with the end of 2021 to respect the publishing times of the Guide book planned for March 2022.

During the first two months of 2022 though, other magnificent F.As were achieved which we cannot leave out.

2022 From January to February new F.A.: 1x 9a+, 1x 9a+/b, 1x 9b While the 9b of Erebor, at Eremo di San Paolo, saw its third repetition by Jakob Schubert in January 2022, Bus de la Stria was theatre of other magnificent F.A. which push the difficulty level of the crag way up. At the Sector Hotel Olivo Gabriele Moroni sent, on 10 January 2022, the magnificent Trofeo dell'Adriatico 9a+, David Lama’s old project. And at the end of February on the right side of the wall, Adam will leave his name on Bombardino 9a+/b first, then Bomba 9b, an old project of his bolted in 2012 (start of the two lines in common).

At the end of March, while we were going to press, Adam Ondra freed Wonderland 9b/+ at Terra Promessa, currently one of the hardest pitches in the world.

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#RAFIKICLIMBING

F.A. of the hardest routes WONDERLAND

30

9b/+

Terra Promessa

Adam Ondra

THE LONELY MOUNTAIN

9b

Eremo di San Paolo

Stefano Ghisolfi

EREBOR

9b

Eremo di San Paolo

Stefano Ghisolfi

ONE SLAP

9b

Laghel*

Adam Ondra

QUEEN LINE

9b

Laghel*

Adam Ondra

BOMBA

9b

Bus de la Stria

Adam Ondra

BOMBARDINO

9a+/b

Bus de la Stria

Adam Ondra

BEGINNING

9a+

Eremo di San Paolo

Stefano Ghisolfi

ONE PUNCH

9a+

Laghel*

Stefano Ghisolfi

ULTIMATUM

9a+

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

TERAPIA D’URTO

9a+

Padaro

Stefano Ghisolfi

THE BOW

9a+

Padaro

Stefano Ghisolfi

TROFEO DELL’ADRIATICO

9a+

Bus de la Stria

Gabriele Moroni

OMEN NOMEN

9a

Padaro

Stefano Ghisolfi

IRON MAN

9a

Bus de Vela

Laura Rogora

UNDER VIBES

9a

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

PURE DREAMING PLUS

9a

Massone

Adam Ondra

UNDERGROUND

8c+/9a

Massone

Manfred Stuffer

ZAUBERFEE

8c+/9a

Eremo di San Paolo

Christian Bindhammer

CAPOLINEA - SOLITARY SOULS

8c+

Le Piazzole

Alfredo Webber

ST. ANGER

8c+

Eremo di San Paolo

Andreas Bindhammer

SID LIVES

8c+

Massi delle Traole (Nago)

Gabriele Moroni

GOOSFRABA

8c+

Padaro

Stefano Ghisolfi

GOD HATE US ALL

8c+

Nago

Markus Bock

IL FRUTTO DEL DIAVOLO

8c+

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

L’ULTIMA PIETRA

8c+

Massone

Adam Ondra

L’ULTIMA REINI

8c+

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

THUNDER VIBES

8c+

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

PURE DREAMING

8c+

Massone

Adam Ondra

CLAUDIO CAFFÈ DIRETTA

8c+

Terra Promessa

Stefano Ghisolfi

PROSPETTIVA NEVSKI

8c/+

Pizarra

Alfredo Webber

X-LARGE

8c/+

Massone

Stefan Fürst

NO HOPE GOAT FARM

8c/+

Nago

Markus Bock

REINI’S VIBES

8c/+

Massone

François Legrand

8c/+

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

CLAUDIO CAFFÈ

8c/+

Terra Promessa

François Legrand

BRAINSTORMING

8c/+

Massone

Alfredo Webber

KOSMIC BLUES

8c

Lundo

Gianguido Dalfovo

MANGUSTA

8c

Nago

Rolando Larcher

INSOSTENIBILE DEBOLEZZA DELL’ESSERE

8c

Grottosauro

Paolo Benvenuti

AEREODROMO

8c

Terra Promessa

François Legrand

STONEHENGE

8c

Massone

Alfredo Webber

BUCKING BRONCO

8c

Massi delle Traole (Nago)

Markus Bock

L’ORIZZONTE DEGLI EVENTI

8c

La Gola

Gianguido Dalfovo

GAUCHO

8c

Pizarra

Roni Andres

TIGRE CONTRO TIGRE

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

THIN ICE

8c

Terlago

Nicolas Favresse

TEAM COMPRESSION

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

REINI MURATA

8c

Massone

Eric Albertini

REINI FATATA

8c

Massone

Alfredo Webber

NO MORE PASSION

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

LA GABI

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

VIA TIPO GERARDO

8c

Terra Promessa

Adam Ondra

CORAZÒN INVERTIDO

8c

Padaro

Adam Ondra

BELZEBÙ CLIMBING TEAM

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

BELLA REGIS

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

AEREODROMO

8c

Terra Promessa

François Legrand

25° ANNIVERSARIO

8c

Celva

Rolando Larcher

PROGETTO BASSI

8c

Celva

Peter Moser

NEI CAMPI ELISEI

8c

Le Piazzole

Alfredo Webber

OPEN BAR

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

ALCATRAZ

8c

Massone

Alfredo Webber

ATENE

8c

Massone

François Legrand

ALTA FEDELTÁ

8c

Ottava Meraviglia

Marco Manfredini

DEDI FREDI

8c

Pizarra

Alfredo Webber

L’ARCIERE

8c

Padaro

Gabriele Moroni

FAST & FURIOUS

8c

Mappamondo

Pietro Vidi

8c

Padaro

Davide Picco

HAPPY MILF

L’ACCIACCATO

The present list of F.A. is the result of a long and detailed research. * The crag of Laghel has not been included in the present Guide.

31

Reading scheme beauty

ÙÙÙÙ

splendid

ÙÙÙÙ

worthy

ÙÙÙÙ

nice

ÙÙÙÙ

not exciting

This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting.

This evaluation is personal and individual.

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ

perfect

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

pay attention

ÙÙÙÙ

terrible

The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.

parking

comfort at base

ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

uncomfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

take care

ÙÙÙÙ

tie in

General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.

32

ÙÙÙÙ

very good

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

sufficient

ÙÙÙÙ

difficult

This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.

number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ

very low

ÙÙÙÙ

low

ÙÙÙÙ

medium

ÙÙÙÙ

high

This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

approach time

The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.

beginners school

This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.

fit for family

This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers.

BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS THE FINAL ASSESMENT OF THE AREA IS THE CONSTANT ASSISTANCE TO MINORS.

qrcode parking

Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park.

The coordinates refer to Google maps.

qrcode base of wall

In spite of the effort to make the accesses to the car parks and crags as clear as possible, if it is very difficult to understand where to go, just scan this code you will be able to visualise the crag’s position on Google or other maps.

Bassilandia, Stefano Ragazzo (© Silvia Loreggian)

33

MASSONE 01. Massone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 02. Family San Martino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 03. Terra Promessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

04. Terra di Nessuno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 05. Grottosauro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 06. Pandora - Pandoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

06

05

04 03

02

34

01

Massone, Gianluca Vighetti, Underground, 8c+/9a (© Diego Borello)

35

01

Massone

MASSONE 170 m altitude

SOUTH-EAST

orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙÙ parking

5 min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Yes - No fit for family

Yes - No multi-pitch

26

24

25

21 18 12 6 6 1

179

13

11 8

5

3

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

36

Everyone calls it affectionately “Massone”, even if officially it is known as Policromuro crag.

This crag, a stone’s throw away from Arco, is an explosion of variety.

Due to the colouring of its rock. For the natural and historical environment of Bosco Caproni (at the base of the western flank of Monte Stivo) which has this large wall.

And, obviously, for the different climbing styles and difficulties available to climbers who will find just about everything here: from simple lines on the far left of Sector A (which with Sector B, C and Ostrica Blu have made up the central focal point of this crag for years) to extreme endurance along the over the top roofs of the Il Pueblo Sector, passing by the overhangs of the Abissi Sector.

Massone is among the busiest and most popular climbing area in Italy. And for the international climbing elite the Pueblo sector is a fundamental destination. Many of the first ascents achieved here have helped make up the history of this discipline. During the last few years Stefano Ghisolfi has signed the first free ascents of Ultimatum 9a+, Thunder Vibes 9a (now 8c+), Under Vibes 9a and L’ultima Reini 8c+. Adam Ondra has climbed the first free ascents of Pure Dreaming 9a (now 8c+) and Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ (now 9a), which was then climbed by Laura Rogora achieving the first female ascent. Alfredo Webber managed to redpoint Brainstorming 8c/+, the 8c’s of Stonehenge and Alcatraz, and in 2017 he redpointed Thunder Vibes, 9a, at 48 years of age. Eric Albertini achieved the free ascent of Reini Murata 8c. The other first ascents on this crag should not be forgotten. From the legendary ceiling of Underground, today 8c+/9a, bolted by Reinhold Scherer and Gerhard Hörhager and freed by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 (first female ascent by Laura Rogora, 2020), to Reini’s Vibes 8c/+ freed by the great François Legrand, passing by the 8b of Maratona, the historical first route which ran up this sector in 1987 thanks to Rolando Larcher. Nearby Accanto alle libere by Reinhold Scherer, Heinrich Pfostl, Stefan Fürst…

With its 180 routes, Massone is split up into 6 different sectors. You start off from the lower section, with contained difficulties (Sector A), gradually climbing up to Sectors B, C, D and the higher sectors of Abissi and Pueblo with difficulties reaching 9a+.

It is possible to climb there all year round, during winter thanks to the mild microclimate typical of the area, and during summer thanks to the refreshing wind which blows daily from Lake Garda during the afternoon. At the sectors Abissi and Il Pueblo, on a few pitches it is also possible to climb when it rains. The base of sectors A,B,C is immersed in olive trees among the most welcoming and beautiful natural environments in the Sarca Valley. It is organized with pic nic areas and bike holders. It is ideal for families. Pity for the presence of one

Tatiana Caloi Stinchi, Grado Dipendente, 7c+ (© Cesar Grosso)

37

01 Massone Massone

single toilet usually in disgraceful conditions. Due the high affluence in this crag, something better should be offered.

Massone is part of the Outdoor Park Garda Trentino-Ledro project.

Equipped: D. Depretto, O. Celva, G. Groaz, R. Larcher, R. Scherer, A. Webber, others.

ACCESS From Arco by car 2,8 km or 3,5 km (Sector Pueblo).

From the bridge over the river Sarca, along the state road 45 bis, follow sign posts for Trento-Madonna di Campiglio. After 600 metres turn right for Massone/Falesia Policrumoro. Continue following signs for Falesia Policromuro. Near the church, in the historic centre of Massone, there is a large car park, and we recommend you park here to reach the lower sectors of the crags in less than 15 minutes on foot (following the same signs we give here below for cars).

From here, continue straight on for 100 metres and take Via degli Olivi (narrow road) which comes out of the town going through the olive groves. After 500 metres, at the stop sign, continue straight, uphill to quickly reach the lower sectors of Massone. On the lower sectors of Massone there is the chance to park, but it is usually very busy. There are other car spaces on the successive hair pin bends, just as crowded.

For the Il Pueblo sector, continue along the uphill road (watch out for mountain bikers) and after the third hair pin bend on the left, there is a small opening where you can park.

Beware, it is forbidden to park here from 10pm to 8am.

Troiana IL PUEBLO P2

2 P1

1

P2

2

ABISSI

MASSONE

OSTRICA BLU Trento

C

wc P1

B A

1

Massone

Arco

38

Rovereto A22

David Hechl, La Cucina dell‘Inferno, 8a (© Leon Müller)

39

01 Massone Massone

SECTOR A

1.

PICCOLA LUNA

4a

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

FORMICA LODOVICA GIACCA GIALLA BANANE FISCH LARA CROFT GELATERIA TARIFA EASY RIDER ALCE VOLANTE BOIACCA GIUDITTA JACOPO PESCE D'APRILE SKODA

5a 5b 5a+ 5c 6b+ 6c 6a + 5c 6b 6a+ 6b 6b

14. GOCCE D'ANSIA 15. PEGASUS

6b/c 6b

16. ZAC 17. TAC

5c 5c

12m Large holds, the first few metres are often damp 12m Grey wall, continuous.

12m Enjoyable pitch on good large holds 12m Easy on loose rock 12m Easy crack 10m Technical, vertical 10m Violent boulder movement 12m Difficult to clip in on overhang 14m Crack avoiding the roof to the right 14m Technical slab, then bulge on good holds 22m Corner-crack 20m Technical movement, polished 20m Pinches on tufa and reachy on undercut flake, polished 20m Technical footwork and powerful to finish 20m Overhanging tufa and pockets. Careful at the third clip 15m Vertical wall, then slab on small pockets 15m Vertical wall, then slab on small pockets MASSONE SECTOR B

MASSONE SECTOR A

5a 6a+

4a

5a

5b

5c

5a+

01

02

6b+ 6a+ 6c

5c

6b

6b

6b

6b+

5c

6a+

6b/c 6b

6b

5c 5b 5b 5b

03

04

05 06 07

08 09

10 11 12 13

14 15

16

5a

17 18

40

5b+

19 20 21 22

23 24 01

02

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

CAMILLO EMILIANO VALENTINO BRUNO MARTINO MATTEO MDF CARLOTTA

5b 5b 5b 5b+ 5a 5a 6b+

15m Easy and nice leaning corner 10m Easy on loose rock 10m Easy on loose rock 8m Easy on loose rock then exit on bulge 8m Easy on loose rock 8m Easy on loose rock 20m Exit on grey wall, technical moves

Sector B (© Mario Manica)

41

10 Swing Area Arco – San Paolo

1.

PIPISTRELLO

7b

20m Difficult and technical small roof. F.A. Heinz Mariacher 2. INDIANA JONES 7b+ 25m Single move to exit the overhang

P2 7c 25m Technical footwork, fingery on small holds,

very hard. F.A. Maurizio Zanolla Technical crack and smeary. F.A. Heinz Mariacher 3. SUPER SWING 7b+ 30m 4. LA GNOGNA 7b+ 26m Technical and compact wall 5. NISIDA 7c 26m Smeary and extreme technique. F.A. Maurizio Zanolla 6. BALLE BOLLENTI 7c 25m Technical on vertical wall, fingery and good footwork required 7. LA PISTA 8a 30m Extremely technical, difficult crux below chain 8. LA GITA 7b 35m Endless journey on slab 9. PORCA VACCA 7c+ 30m Technical wall, endurance and sustained climbing on vertical edges 10. ARMANDO DIAZ 7a 25m Sustained climbing on small knobbles

SIRAC EN RUT SECTOR

1. GREPPO GREPPO

P2 2. KARL DALLE

P2

6a 5a 6c 6b

20m 20m 20m 20m

Technical footwork, beautiful Corner crack Technical on sloping pockets Technical climbing on knobbles SWING AREA SIRAC EN RUT

SWING AREA 30 m

7c 5a 8a 7c

7b+ 7b

7b+

02 03

01

7b+

7b

7c+ 6b

7a

7c

04 05 06

07 08 09

05 6c

6a

6c

6c

10

6b+

6c

7a 7a+

05

01 02

102

6c

6b

03 04

06

07 08

3.

WITHOUT NAME

4. WITHOUT NAME 5. SIRAC EN RUT

P2 6. KARL KNOPF 7. TIN TIN

P2 8. WITHOUT NAME

6c 6c 6b+ 6b 7a+ 7a 6c 6c

20m Technical moves, footwork on the last section (wrong name at start of route) 20m Technical climbing, smeary 20m Technical traverse footwork 28m Grey rock always on vertical holds 22m Original bolting, dangerous 22m Great route not too demanding 20m Second pitch dirty and dusty 22m Vertical wall on flakes

Mirella Marsella, Greppo Greppo, 6a (© Francesco Meschini)

103

SUPERSWING, SWING’S DAUGHTER

by Antonella Cicogna

The story of Superswing’s 30 metres, Heinz Mariacher’s masterpiece at the Swing Area. When sports climbing was breaking away from the old alpinism creed of never falling, and falling carried with it enormous psychological pressure.

Sarca Valley. Between 1982 and 1984 the level of difficulties changed here. They put their names on Dracurella, Tom Tom Club, La Signora degli Appigli…Wearing t-shirts and shorts, climbing shoes, to reach the routes in just a few minutes.

Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane, Maurizio Zanolla and Roberto Bassi. The magic and heterogeneous rebel energy to whom we owe the creations of the burning single pitches of Arco and around the

Another dimension But to describe her we need to travel back to 1983, to a crag named Swing Area. «It was the line. Another dimension compared to those already pres-

Heinz Mariacher (© Giovanni Antonioli)

104

ent on the wall. The first step towards extreme difficulty, towards true sports climbing, at least as far as I am concerned. This first corner, the crack, then the exit onto slabs on the left – Mariacher tells us –. If you were looking for the rock’s weakest point, that was Swing: designed naturally from the rock on this unreal blackboard of grey, vertical and technical limestone».

Falling: pyschological pressure «While placing the bolts with Roberto in the more favourable points for clipping in there were runouts which gave you the creeps! Not to mention the point which went from the bolt where the crack ended all the way to the anchor point up high to the left! A delicate type of climbing which was difficult to read. And with the risk of a huge pendulum. A real challenge! But nobody dared try that line. The difficulty and effort were a lot higher than the most difficlt pitches of Tempi Moderni, which I had opened, free, with Luisa in Marmolada, without bolts, and with many run-outs.

But to fall on 8mm bolts, hand drilled, attempting the crux, was psychologically hard for us, for our generation and for the generation before ours, who had grown up with the mountaineering mantra of never falling. We were the first four crazy dudes to experiment these things».

Yosemite’s ethics Six long months went by. «I never even touched the route before freeing it. The moves? Didn’t even try them while we bolted. It was the shared rule with Manolo and Roberto. No top rope to work the lines. We freed the routes by starting from the ground up. Quick-draws on our harness. If you fell, you would be lowered to the ground and start back up from the ground. We were following the ethics of Yosemite, where I had been in 1980».

Without him I wouldn’t have taken the risk 180 days to metabolize psychologically. And then. «I owe him my first ascent on Swing. To

the man who had the foresight of making safety a priority, while we, on the other hand, were risk takers. One day I told him about my project and Aldo rightly so asked me: why don’t you give it a go? Do you not feel up to it? I couldn’t change my mind! It was a challenge. So I forced myself.

And I was even “forced” not to fall while he belayed me, I couldn’t afford to make such a bad impression. I fought as hard as I could, and in one attempt I freed it. It is all thanks to him, thanks to Aldo! Without that prod I would have never dared».

Superswing: exit to the right But Leviti hardly had the time to lower him down when Heinz has another line in mind. «After the crack, its best to move over to the right! The difficult section is longer and more sustained».

And that is how, with the exit to the right and an anchor placed higher up, the burning cruxes of Superswing 7b+, daughter of Swing 7b+ were born. Which Mariacher will go on to free on that same year. Today, those 30 metres of 7b+ remain a testing piece, along that narrow technical crack, smeary slab, The grades were considered stiff (in those days it was one of the first routes of that difficulty), and even stiffer for what climbing has become nowadays. «I never found Nisida more difficult, even if this last one was graded higher», says Heinz about the 26 metres graded 7c which Manolo freed in 1984.

«Superswing! The last time with Magnus Midtbø I had to repeat it a number of times before reaching the chain! But I am also over sixty years old now! ». Nor did Magnus who climbs 9b, for the record, climb it on his first attempt.

«Quite a forgotten area nowadays. One of those peaceful places». Pitches which have pushed the level of climbing. And as Heinz says «They might get dirty, but they never get polished. Because it is when they get polished that the going gets tough».

105

Adam Ondra (© Arch. Garda Dolomiti Spa ph. Giampaolo Calzà)

184

185

25 Padaro Padaro - Mandrea

A - CORAZÓN

1.

2.

3.

WITHOUT NAME IL RUGGITO DEL CONIGLIO CORAZÓN INVERTIDO

?

7c+ 8c

4.

5.

6.

THE PRESENT WITHOUT NAME LIEBE

? ?

8a+

7.

LIEBE PLUS

?

8.

L’EREMITA

8b+/c

9.

ENHORABUENA

8b+

10. LASTIMA

20m Project 25m Vertical fingery route 37m Overhang, continous with final difficult boulder. F.A. Adam Ondra; first repetition. S. Reffo 36m Project 36m Project 30m Continuous with final boulder F.A. Matthias Knaubert 36m Project. First pitch of Liebe, then another 6 metres 38m Three difficult sections, the last is below the chain. F.A. Adam Ondra 36m Difficult wall, then technical on fingers. F.A. Paolo Benvenuti 34m Project. Overhanging wall with small holds

?

PADARO A - CORAZON

07 ?

8b+

8c

?

?

?

06

7c+ 05 04

01

02 03

Cicciosauro

186

8a+

?

8b+/c

08

09

10

Solarium + Balcone

Stefano Ghisolfi, The Bow, 9a+ (© Sara Grippo)

187

32 Nago Nago - Torbole

LA MANDRIA SECTOR

1.

2.

3.

BALI VISIGOTI UNNI

6a 6a 5c

4. ZUPPA ZUPPA

P2

4b 6a

5. PARAMPAMPOLI

P2 6. ALCOR 7. WINKINBONGO 8. ASDU 9. ENZO MOLINARI

4b 6a+ 5b 5b 5a+ 6a+

10. IL CAPRICCIO 11. SUPERMARIO 12. GOBAZIO

7c 7c 6a+

13. LA MANDRIA

6a

14. MARIO POLENTA 15. LILLILLA

6a 6a+

10m Short but intense white wall 10m Wall with good vertical holds 8m Crack with smeary feet, very polished, complex move 10m Grey featured rock, large holds but polished 12m Nice grey wall on sharp crimps requiring movement 10m Featured grey rock, large holds 12m Difficicult sequence on slopers 10m Easy oblique crack on large holds 10m Beautiful athletic crack 10m Crack with good external sharp crimps 12m Technical climbing requiring movement, beautiful 20m Stamina on edges difficult to read 22m Intense to start on edges and slopers 25m Vertical wall with edges with short boulder move, beautiful 25m Vertical wall with edges and sharp crimps to finish, recommended 25m Vertical wall with edges and reachy 22m Vertical wall and arête on edges and sharp crimps

NAGO LA MANDRIA

6a+ 7c 5a+

7c

6a

6a+

6a

6a+

5b 5b

6a

09

6a+

08 07 06

6a

01

242

6a

02

5c

4b

03

04

4b

05

10

11 12

13

14 15

Nago (© Mattia Carraro)

243

52

Dro - Pietramurata

GIARDINO DI NATO Immersed in the cool beech woods and oak trees, this crag, situated in a beautiful and quiet area, offers excellent quality of rock with vertical slabs, edges, slopers and small overhangs. Excellent crags for those who climb from 6a to 7b. Comfortable at the base. As many other walls in the Pietramurata area, this crag was created by the Sisyphos group. Recently new routes were added and the crag has been completely rebolted and fixed by the never tiring Fabio Leoni and partners. The difficulties have all been reviewed, but are no walk in the park. Gear supplied by the Vertical Sport stores.

440 m altitude

EAST

orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

Equipped: D. Bonvecchio, M. Cagol, M. Curti, R. Larcher, F. Leoni.

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS From Arco by car 12,5 km, then 15 minutes on foot.

number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

From the bridge over the river Sarca, take the S.S. 45 and follow the indications for Trento - Madonna di Campiglio to Pietramurata (12,2 km). Stay on the S.S.45 bis, after a few hundred metres on the left you will find the Bar Birreria New Entry. Leave your car in the car park behind the bar. Take the path which from the car park goes round the white house on its left and continue without leaving the path till you reach a junction distinguished by a green-yellow bar.

Turn left and continue for 100 metres before turning right onto the first obvious path leading into the trees. Keep to this path passing over a short rocky scree, avoid a large downhill track on the right, reach a junction marked by evident cairn. Continue diagonally slightly uphill along the path till you shortly reach the crag.

ÙÙÙÙ parking

20 min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Yes - No fit for family

Yes - No multi-pitch

GIARDINO DI NATO

Pietramurata Bar New Entry

8 2

4

30

8 4

3

1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

334

Arco

VERTICAL Bike & Climb

Trento

Lorenzo De Bonis, Non è un 6c, 7b+ (© Roni Andres)

335

LIVE. CLIMB. REPEAT. BD Athlete Roland Hemetzberger La Placca, Nago, Belvedere Andy Earl