ARCO Walls

ARCO Walls

DIEGO FILIPPI

Classic and modern routes in the Sarca Valley VOL.1 - Arco - Torbole - Biacesa - Tenno - Padaro - Dro

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

Fourth edition September 2020 ISBN 978 88 55470 148 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, L’Ora del Garda, 8a max (7b+ obl.), Mandrea

Texts and drawings

Diego Filippi

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani and Kenny Stocker

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Davide Vagheggi

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook.

It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

DIEGO FILIPPI

ARCO Walls Classic and modern routes in the Sarca Valley VOL.1

Arco – Torbole – Biacesa – Tenno – Padaro – Dro

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

To Giuliano Stenghel Undisputed leading character of climbing in the Sarca Valley and in all of the Upper Garda area thanks to the numerous new routes set up on these walls, all of them with great aesthetics and high mountaineering value.

A sincere and generous man. Loved and esteemed by everyone, he has dedicated his life to solidariety with the Serenella Association, collecting funds to build schools and clinics in the poorest areas of the world.

With a passion and talent for writing, he published dozens of books on alpinism and solidariety, appreciated and renowned, with which he supported the projects of the Serenella Association.

Determined, strong and tough on the rock faces as in his not so easy life, he knew how to be kind and sensitive with friends and climbing partners. Always present and available with the people he loved.

Just as your name was linked to the many rocks of Garda, you have left your example in the hearts of all Trentino mountaineers. Thank you for this.

You will never be forgotten.

Your friend Diego.

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Presentation I leafed through the first Sarca Valley Guide book at the beginning of the 80’s, its name was “Al limite del settimo grado:” (to the limit of the seventh grade) and it coincided with my hesitant approach to the area’s rock faces, and as a “kid” (i.e. young non expert), I strictly only climbed seconding.

The book was a bit mysterious to me: names of rock faces and mountains, first ascensionists and repeaters all yet to be discovered. I remember the topos (not many) with rough passages and the photos were all in black and white.

Technically it probably was not a great guide book: if I leaf through it now though, its contents take me back to that period of my adolescence when these kind of things seemed to be only reserved for “older” people whom I looked at with stupor and admiration. Our field of action, in those days, was limited to the Placche Zebrate wall: I climbed wearing boots and my friend often shoulder belayed me, this thing did not worry me at all, since I had seen Luis Trenker do it in an old film. In the preface, Marco Furlani already complained about the area being far too busy and regretted the peace which could be enjoyed back in the old days, but he then went on to say how happy he was to have made so many new friends who shared his same passion.

Since then the Valley has developed incredibly, new routes run up every wall and it seems impossible to find the possibility of developing new lines. I say “it seems” because every time I update this guide book, Diego proposes a number of new routes, proving that there will always be brand new eyes able to read lines where others have not noticed a line as well, or where they have not been stubborn enough to push themselves. Throughout the years I have repeated many classic routes in the Valley, on Colodri, Mandrea, Dain, etc but the move to more difficult routes never suited me and compared to other climbing areas, routes protected using bolts appeared later on.

Climbing in this Valley is never trivial: rock fall, often vertical rock with sections which aren’t al-

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ways solid require a certain type of effort. This is one of the reasons that motivated me, during the 90’s to look for lines which reflected the “plaisir” character of climbing, even if then it was not defined as such, but climbing was simply called “bolted”.

Over a period of several years, from having only very few climbers who bolted routes, we suddenly found ourselves in a multi-coloured group of climbers, each one with his own style and vision, with varying preferences and levels. I remember the first days, moved by elation: it was as if we rushed from one corner of the Valley to another trying to grab portions of rock by bolting at least one pitch with the aim of returning a second time.

During these outings I had met Diego, more than once, but we had never had the chance to be introduced to one another. The chance came during a nice commemorative evening dedicated to the first ascensionists of Colodri, in which at full throttle he proposed a new route on the left of Vertigine (the future Universo giallo). I kindly declined because I told him that the 90 metres of Born to kill, at Rupe di Porcile, were currently more than enough to appease my love of aid climbing.

During that period – year 2000 – at his house, Diego showed me a pile of sheets: topos, sketches, photos, an impressive amount of work, which from then to a few years later would have turned into the first edition of the guide book “Pareti del Sarca”, 2002. I do not wish to, and wouldn’t be able to, retrace the history of climbing in the Valley: mine is only the testimony of any old climber, who as well as being the author’s friend, has had the luck of sharing new openings and new adventures, so much so that this friendship has been named “Amici del sottobosco” (to remind us not to take this game called climbing too seriously). The only serious thing we care about is our life, ours and for those repeating our routes.

Both of us experienced dangerous situations during the first years of our climbing activity due to inexperience and ignorance, or due to

that youthful wrath which leads you to believe that you are immortal; once this phase has been overcome, we have learned to love ourselves and accept our limits, having fun, fully aware of our fragilities.

In almost 20 years we have climbed many routes, many have been repeated classics, not only in the Valley, but also around the Dolomites and other areas. I don’t remember the grades or single moves very well, but rather I remem-

ber the feelings, the good laughs and particular situations which I like to share with the following lines. Mid 80’s after repeating with a friend a classic route on the Placche Zebrate, we meet a weird guy at the start of Luna 85, with a smart moustache: he had just bolted a variant named Full, he said it was the hardest route he had ever climbed in the area. Those words were etched in my memory. I made a clumsy attempt, but with my terrible shoes and inexperience,

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I could hardly get off the ground. A few years later though, wearing my Mariacher climbing shoes I managed to climb the variant. I am fully aware that we are currently experiencing the era of 9c, and that certain difficulties can seem ridiculous, but climbing those 25 metres with only 3,4 bolts to protect them was very satisfying for me. The weird guy’s name was Arturo Tamanini, an authentic local genius of the wall, author of the amazing “Un lungo flash”, opened from the ground up with normal pegs and hand placed bolts, as well as the difficult “Emozioni al Brento”. Another fun episode was when together with Michl I took the chair onto the anchor point of Delta di Venere on the Transatlantico wall. Climbing up the road we met a group of curious hunters who wondered what that chair was doing tied up to our backpack. We said that we weren’t made for such a long walk and that every now and then we needed a seat to catch our breath….

One evening, at the car park of Placche Zebrate, while we were organizing the gear after opening a route, a dark Audi car stopped, the two people sitting inside put big bags on their back and passing by one of them cheerily said “Griess enck” (which means: hello) it was David Lama. “ They are definitely not going to climb a route on the Placche” we thought. In fact they were opening “Brento Centro”, first route free climbed to overcome those impressive overhangs.

Ten or so years ago we collected some signatures, after the publication of an appeal letter which as a protest, had a list of our routes that shouldn’t be repeated. This group, created on an online forum, accused us of not respecting the “sacredeness” of the rocks and “killing” the principles of integrity of the environment and the mountains.

This incident truly made us reflect on the climbing environment we live in which loves to consider itself free and open minded. It was a bit disheartening to discover that here too, as in other contexts there are people who like to rise above and consider themselves judges, condemning in the name of moralism and defending tradition, transforming into doctrine what should simply be a beautiful expression of free creativity. I would have liked to tell them that as well as pro-

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tecting the route we spent days creating access to the structures, marked the return paths adequately, cleared the rock faces from dangerous boulders, re-bolted abseil points and cleaned the routes.

As Diego reminded me, the Sarca Valley has become a great climbing centre thanks to the initiative of many alpinists and non professional bolters. Many different mentalities and ways of approaching climbing which have contributed to diversifying the routes depending on one’s level and creativity. I don’t know what the future offers us, even if I fear there will be an institutionalization of this free expression, one of the most recent which has gotten out of control from commissions or various authorities. Whatever happens, we will cherish a lovely memory of precious time spent in these wide open spaces, during which, chasing dreams we almost risked to lose ourselves like children. This is because climbing is essentially a game, even if we want to confer it other meanings, bringing it back to the things “one has to do” and which, in daily every day life, we define as “problems”.

A heartfelt thanks to my friend Diego for allowing me to write these lines. I wish him the umpteenth deserved success for his passion and the effort he has always puts into his projects. To the future beneficiaries I invite you to read beyond the data and numbers, to catch the magic of this marvellous area, defined in many different ways, but which will simply represent to us “Nar en Val” (head to the Valley…)

Roly Galvagni

LocalitĂ Marocche, 3 - Pietramurata (TN) Tel. +39 349 289 4600 info@agricampeggiopaolino.com www.agricampeggiopaolino.com

Acknowledgements Without a doubt, a guide book like this one, needs collaborators and for this reason I have to sincerely thank alpinists and climbers who gave me precious help in terms of topos, photos and sketches. I would like to publicly thank Francesco Salvaterra, Simone Banal, Gianni Canale, Alessandro Beber and Ivan Maghella. They all are very strong alpinists and Mountain Guides, always active and present in the Sarca Valley. Furthermore I cannot forget the help and support of my dearest friends like Roly Galvagni, Matteo Bertolotti, Christian Della Maria and Luca Pilati. Without the contribution of my friends it would have been very difficult to create a complete and up to date guide book like this one. A big and heartfelt thank you goes to all alpinists and climbers who dedicate their time and money to opening and creating new routes, making our Sarca Valley increasingly richer and more beautiful. Last but not least, a thank you to Versante Sud, which has believed and invested in this guide book for many years.

DIEGO FILIPPI Guida Alpina B e rg f Ăź h re r Mountain Guide

e - m a i l : s a rc a v a l l e y @ g m a i l . c o m phone: 3487658394

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Introduction After the first three editions, respectively in 2002, 2007 and 2013, here we are finally in the year 2020 for this fourth edition. Punctually, every 5 or 6 years I find myself editing a new edition and I am always surprised by the quantity of work this entails. As well as the 260 extra routes added, I have to review, correct and change photos of texts and topos. Many things change throughout the years, all you need to think about is the car park of Ciclamino al Pian dela paia: the motor-cross track has become so big that it is no longer possible to reach the start of the rock faces. The same can be said of the large quarry of Casale or the new works above Sarche. In these cases, the approach and the return have been changed. The meticulous Heinz Grill team, in constant search of perfection, continuously improve their routes by changing a pitch, an anchor point or making new variants.

Furthermore, they take care of old routes, cleaning the rock from vegetation and changing trails.

Therefore it becomes difficult to write up to date topos, which are perfect and correspond to reality.

Especially in our Valle del Sarca, which mountaineering wise is in continuous movement and always growing. This work has always had a double objective: describe the routes present in the valley and do so in the most detailed and precise way possible.

In the first three editions the rock faces were mainly concentrated between Sarche and Arco, but now the area has grown a lot and we can now describe 23 new sectors for a total of 260 unpublished new routes: together with the 520 routes described in the last edition that makes a total of 780 routes, spread out along 33 sectors. You will realise that it was impossible to present it all in one unique volume of 1200 pages, so we have decided to describe the part with the most unpublished routes, an area which includes the first section of the Sarca Valley and the rock faces which run along the plains of Arco and Lake Garda: many new routes are in fact being developed on the Coste di Loppio near San Giovanni, in Val di Ledro there is a new sector with multi pitch routes, and in the unknown little valley of Volta di Nò they are setting up new, interesting routes, just to mention a few among the many surprises of this volume.

The second guide book will deal with the rock faces which rise in the Valley near Sarche and Pietramurata, and which continue towards the Valle dei Laghi (valley of Lakes) and this book will also offer unpublished material: the opportunities for climbing on the walls of Fraveggio as well as on the walls of the Limarò canyon are anything but exhausted.

In a few words, there will be plenty to repeat, climb and describe for the next few years. To reach 1000 multi pitch routes with the two volumes would be a fantastic result, an ambitious feat for the next editions. We will therefore see you in another 5,6 years time, Inshallah as some say…For now all I can do is to wish everyone great enjoyment and climbing!

Diego Filippi

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Laghel, Stefano Ghisolfi (©G. Calzà)

MOUNTAINEERING GUIDEBOOKS Climbing | Mountain | Outdoor Sports

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Index Technical introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Leading characters of Sarca Valley . . . . . . 22

8. MONTE BRIONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332

1. MONTE COLODRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

10. PARETE CATULLO DETASSIS . . . . . . . . 342

1a. South Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1b. East Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1c. Pilastro Zanzara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1d. Rupe Secca East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32 46 66 86

2. PARETE DI SAN PAOLO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 2a. San Paolo South wall . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 2b. San Paolo North wall . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 2c. La Placconata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184

3. MONTE COLT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 3a. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3b. Muro di Oceania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3c. Parete Sconosciuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3d. Croce di Ceniga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

192 210 222 230

4. MANDREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 4a. I Pilastri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 4b. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 4c. Mandrea North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

5. PLACCHE DI BAONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296

11. CORNO DI BÒ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 12. SAN GIOVANNI E COSTE DI LOPPIO . . 354

12a. Falesia di San Giovanni . . . . . . . . . 356 12b. Coste di Loppio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358

13. REGINA DEL LAGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 13a. Fiori di Primavera . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13b. Regina del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13c. Re del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13d. Cima al Bal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

362 374 380 384

14. NODICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 15. VOLTA DI NÒ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 16. RUPE DI PADARO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394

16a. Lower Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 16b. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 16c. Upper Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414

5a. Attimo Fuggente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 5b. Settore Ondulina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 5c. Parete di Lomego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306

17. RUPE DI MANDREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420

6. PICCOLA DALLAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308

19. COSTE DELL’ANGLONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

18. L’ATTICO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426

7a. Parete di Pezol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 7b. Becco di Pezol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 7c. Parete IR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324

19a. Sass dela Vecia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19b. Anglone South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19c. Anglone North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19d. Cà del Liscio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19e. Piramide Lakshmi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LEADING CHARACTERS

TYSZKYEWICZ by Giovanni Groaz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Climbing with your heart by Giuliano Stenghel . . . 54

The silence of colours by Matteo Bertolotti . . . . . 424

Note from my diary by Umberto Marampon . . . . . . 72

The route is the destination by Roy Galvani . . . . . 518

7. PARETI DI PEZOL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312

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9. SCIVOLO DELLE MAROCCHE . . . . . . . . . 338

436 454 474 492 504

Monte Terlago

N VALLE DEL SARCA

Terlago Cadine

Fraveggio Ranzo

Vezzano

TRENTO

CAMPIGLIO

ARCO PARETI VOL.1

Sarche

San Giovanni

Pietramurata

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ARCO 1 Colodri 2 Parete di San Paolo 3 Monte Colt 4 Mandrea 5 Placche di Baone 6 Piccola Dallas 7 Pareti di Pezol TORBOLE 8 Monte Brione 9 Scivolo delle Marocche 10 Parete Catullo Detassis 11 Corno di Bò 12 Coste di Loppio BIACESA 13 Regina del Lago 14 Cima Nodice

Drena

17

19

Mandrea

PADARO 16 Rupe di Padaro 17 Rupe di Mandrea 18 L’Attico

Dro Ceniga

4

16

2 7

6

1

5

Tenno

DRO 19 Coste dell’Anglone

3

Padaro

15

TENNO 15 Volta di Nò

Arco

Riva

Biacesa

Bolognano

8

Torbole

Nago 12

9

Passo San Giovanni

13 10

14

Pregasina

lago di Garda

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ROVERETO

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Technical Introduction ACCESS BY ROAD The faces included in this guide extend from Sarche along the valley to Arco. Precipitating from the summits of Monte Casale and Monte Brento, they are visible from the road on the right-hand side of the valley. Together Sarche and Arco mark both the entrance and the exit of the valley and are easily reached from the A22 motorway (Brennero-Modena). Arriving from the North leave the motorway at ‚Trento Centro‘ and follow the indications for Lago di Garda or Madonna di Campiglio. It is possible to reach Sarche in c. 30 minutes from Trento. Arriving from the South exit the motorway at ‚Rovereto Sud‘ and follow the indications for Lago di Garda and Arco which is reached in c. 20 minutes from Rovereto.

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LOGISTICAL BACK UP POINTS Alpinists (who are nearly always penniless), will find the best bases to be the campsites in Arco and Pietramurata. The first are found under the Colodri cliffs close to the communal swimming pool, while the second is found behind Hotel Daino on the main road running along the valley.

Hotels and restaurants can be found along the length of the valley. For your hunger, other than the many bars in Arco, I would like to pick out the small ‚Lunelli‘ food store in Sarche, well known for their ‚paninis‘ of every flavour and dimension.

THE ROCK FACES The greatest quality of Valle del Sarca is that it offers a vast variety of itineraries, both alpine

and sport. Alpinists will find something to sink their teeth into on the sweeping walls of Brento or Casale, while for training needs the more modest walls of Pian dela Paia or Mandrea offer shorter alpine masterpieces. The sport climber has an embarrassing choice of equipped routes at every difficulty and length. I love this valley and the style of climbing it offers, even if it can often be vegetated and loose. Therefore do not be surprised if I turn up and recommend a fantastic long vegetated crack, the Valley is like this..

EQUIPMENT I do not think that it is worth spending much time chewing over which equipment should be carried, everyone will have their own pref- erences. However I would like to recommend a few things. Carry a good selection of pegs, nuts and friends on all of the alpine routes. An etrier can also be useful and it is also a good idea to carry some short slings or cord in case of retreat. For the aid climbs it is fundamental to take a hand drill and some bolts. It would be a shame to fail on a route just because an old bolt had fallen out. It can also be useful to have at hand an etrier on some of the longer sport routes. This will help you to quickly bypass bouldery sections.. especially when fatigue begins to make itself felt. Every route should be approached with 2 half ropes, perhaps twins. A single rope should be banned from multi-pitch routes and saved for the crag! During hot spells it is advisable to carry a lot of water, and it is worthwhile remembering that in winter, even if the day is hot, an icy wind frequently forms in the afternoon.

unlocked in the described car parks. Thefts are frequent but you can at least save a window or lock. Finally some advice for climbers who climb with a hand drill. Do not add bolts to the classic routes! It is not creative and destroys the poetry and the adventure one searches for, debasing the significance of the original ascent. Another reason I wanted to create this guide was to record and celebrate this side of traditional alpinism, it is part of me therefore do not be surprised if someone like me will remove them!

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE The guide book, consists of two volumes NORTH and SOUTH, and is split up in chapters which refer to the main rocky sectors of the valley.

Every sector described, or at least mentioned, includes all the routes that now exist. Each sector starts with a heading indicating the number of the sector and the group to which it belongs.

After a brief introduction I describe: - Access, a description of how to arrive at the cliff and the time needed from the car to the foot of the face. The approach is described in detail and then singularly for each and every route.

- Descent, a description of the best descent route and the time needed. In general these are the same for every route in the same sector.

- List of the routes with length and route type (sport or alpine).

- Description of the itineraries, with the line, photo, brief description and all of the technical data.

- Other routes, a list of unknown and less interesting itineraries that I have wanted to record for their explorative and historic importance.

MOUNTAIN RESCUE In case you need help call 112 ADVICE This guide book has been written with the utmost care and attention, however there are bound to be some details incomplete, imprecise or even omitted. For this I apologise to the reader in advance, and hope you will collaborate by bringing them to the attention of the publishers in order to make subsequent editions more complete. Leave your car completely empty and

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BEAUTY RATINGS

Ù Not recommended, best to let it go ÙÙ Fairly good, for who’s climbed everything ÙÙÙ Good, a route worth repeating ÙÙÙÙÙ A quality route and highly recommended ÙÙÙÙÙ Awesome, the best that the valley has

to offer, a route not to be missed.

Attention! These ratings are personal and absolutely subjective

WEATHER The most reliable forecast, if you have a computer, is that supplied by the Province of Trento. www.provincia.tn.it/meteo or telephone + 39 0461238939.

PROTECTION I have used a scale that takes into account the distance and reliability of the protection using the letter ‘R’ (for risk). In the case that the route is bolted the ‘R’ is substituted by an ‘S’, and the grade is intended to indicate the distance between bolts. For mixed routes I have used ‘RS’.

Influenced by the grading for aid climbs this table is subdivided in to six grades, where grade 6 indicates a distance nearly or totally unprotectable with a high risk of a fatal fall. Naturally the scale is open ended.

ROUTES EVALUATION To thoroughly classify each route we have used the extended grading system which separates the general effort of a route (setting, distance from the valley, total length, pyschological engagement) from the distance and placement of the protection. All this is separate from the technical difficulties, commonly expressed using the French or UIAA grading system. We have therefore three parameters and three different scales to place alongside the description of a route: the technical difficulty, how easy it is to protect a route and the level of commitment. To have a precise idea of a route it is necessary to express all three, because taken singularly they do not provide the climber with enough information.

PROTECTION S1

Normal protection system such as on cliffs.

Average dis- tance between bolts: 3,4 metres.

Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R1

Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protec- tions. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2

Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

R2

Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protec- tions. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S3

Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

R3

Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

S4

Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory pas- sages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

R4

Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall. Long com- pulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

S5

Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

R5

Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protec- tions, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

S6

Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

R6

Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant pas- sages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

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TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY The classic routes, those equipped with pegs or not equipped at all have adopted the UIAA scale expressed in roman numerals. This is to maintain a continuity with the previous guide, the alpine climbing tradition of the valley and to avoid regrading all of the itineraries already classified by the UIAA scale with the French scale.

For modern and sport routes, those protected by bolts, the French scale has been applied.

OVERALL FEATURES Evaluating the commitment needed for a route, the setting, the difficulty of escape and the distance from the road we have substituted the classic French scale (TD, ED..) with one that is used in America to grade the big walls. Expressed in Roman numerals from I to VII (an open ended scale) it sits along side the technical difficulty. Since the technical difficulty of a route is unrelated to the overall commitment it is always expressed together with the roman numeral.

OVERALL FEATURES I

II

Short route just taking a few hours, near the road and with a comfortable approach track, nice surrounding and easy downclimb.

V

Multi-pitch route on a wall of more than 200 metres of length, easy approach track, rather long, easy downclimb.

III

Long route of more than 300 metres that will take all day long, difficult surrounding. Long approach track and rather slow downclimb.

IV

Very long route of more than 500 metres, on severe wall far away from the bottom of the valley.

It will take you all day long and the downclimb might be compli- cated, as you can’t climb down the same route.

VI

VII

Very long route, big wall style, requires a bivvi on the wall. Difficult downclimb, difficult surrounding.

Big wall which requires more days on the walls, High Mountain surrounding, difficult downclimb.

All the features of the 6th grade, but exasperated, such as on big walls in the Himalayas, which need a real expedition.

ORIGINAL AID RATING SYSTEM

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A0

Occasional aid moves often done without aiders (etriers) or climbed on fixed gear; sometimes called “French free”.

A1

All placements are solid and easy.

A2

Good placements, but sometimes tricky.

A3

Many difficult, insecure placements, but with little risk.

A4

Many placements in a row that hold nothing more than body weight.

A5

Enough body-weight placements in a row that one failure results in a fall of at least 20 meters.

OFFICIAL RESOLER

OFFICIAL RESOLER

21

Leading characters in the Sarca Valley If the great Sarca Valley climbing wonderland exists at all it is thanks to the efforts of all the alpinists who set up routes on these walls. After the first timid explorations in the 1930s, and apart from Cesare Maestri’s visit at Limarò in the 50s, the valley remained neglected for a long time. Real exploration started in 1970 and the routes and alpinists have been multiplying ever since.

Marcello Friederichsen and Luigi Miori Main protagonists after opening in 1933 the first route in the Sarca valley on the large Casale wall. A great ascent for those days, if one considers that it is over 1000 metres long and offers difficulties up to sixth grade.

Bruno Detassis

Bruno Detassis First route opened in 1935: Gran Diedro route at Casale. Bruno, by opening the Grand Diedro route and the Canna d’Organo route on Piccolo Dain, certainly represents one of the very first explorers of the Sarca Valley. These routes are still considered difficult and are rarely repeated.

Heinz Steinkotter and Heini Holzer First route opened in 1966: Steinkotter route at Cima alle Coste.Heinz was the first great explorer of the walls in the valley. We must remember his routes at Casale, Cima alle Coste and Monte Brento. Great routes, trad style, very long, with remarkable total length, requiring both physical and mental commitment. Heini should be remembered for his fantastic trilogy on the Pian dela Paia: Holzer Reali route, the Gran Diedro and the Traudi route which still today are routes which are both coveted and feared.

Andrea Andreotti, Marcello Rossi and Franco Gadotti First new route in 1971: Rita route on Parete Zebrata. Andrea and Marcello were great explorers of the Sarca Valley walls. First ones to brave the Grande Placconata of Monte Brento opening the Graziella route. Together with young Franco Gadotti they then took up the challenge of other great walls: the Betti arête on Brento, Vedovel-

22

la on the Casale and Gadotti on Limarò which today are still seen as serious routes of great mountaineering value. Franco Gadotti was also present when opening the magnificent Via degli Amici on Monte Brento.

Mauro Ischia and Ugo Ischia First route opened in 1972: Bertamini route on Colodri.The Ischia cousins deserve credit for having challenged Colodri’s vertiginous walls for years, setting up true masterpieces such as the Bertamini route and the Barbara and Sommadossi routes. Other routes are found on San Paolo or in Mandrea, such as the historic and classic Fontane route.

Giovanni Groaz and Palma Baldo First route opened in 1978: Baldo Groaz at Pian dela Paia.Among the great explorers of the valley let us remember the couple Giovanni, Mountain Guide and Palma, opened many routes some of which required great effort as for example, the route Palma at Brento, and others which have become famous and extremely repeated such as the route Vegetable and Kerouac at Pian dela Paia. Giovanni also opened great masterpieces

Maurizio Zanolla

Giuliano Stenghel

Giuliano Stenghel First new route in 1976: Agostina route on Colodri.Giuliano, Mountain Guide is one of the leading characters in the Sarca Valley, his masterpieces are countless. The Missile route on Casale, the Pilastro Gabrielli in Mandrea, Big Bang route on Pian dela Paia are examples of bravery and mountaineering logic. A great explorer of untouched walls, he has set up routes in every corner of the valley, all of undisputed historical and mountaineering value. Giuliano’s other masterpieces are: the Stenico route, Katia and Micheluzzi routes on Colodri, the route Mario Centi on Anglone and the Pilastro Olimpos on the Pala dele Lastiele. The Emanuele Zenatti route, the Andrea Calliari and the route magnesio dalla roccia to Parete Ghandi. The Pilastro Einstein and the feared route Follia al Casale.

such as the Gadotti route on Pilastro Magro, the Amici route on Monte Brento and the Pilastro Gobbo at Casale.

Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo” First new route opened in 1978: the Gadotti route on Pilastro Magro. Manolo has not opened many routes in the Sarca Valley, his feared route at Pilastro Magro and the undisputed masterpiece the Zanzara route on Colodri is worth remembering. The great classic ascent at Pian dela Paia like Cesare Levis and the route Factotum are also Manolo’s.

Marco Furlani First route opened in 1978: Amicizia route on Parete Zebrata. Great alpinist, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and Mountain Guide, Marco has put up on the Sarca walls many great alpine masterpieces, which require great effort. Let us remember the route Anniversario al Brento, the route Alba Chiara at Casale and the route Luce del Primo Mattino al Piccolo Dain.

Maurizio Giordani First route opened in 1979: Black Hole route in Mandrea. Great alpinist, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club. His achievements on the walls of the Sarca valley are remarkable. Com-

23

Roberto Bassi

mon characteristic is the high difficulties in free climbing. The routes Fiore di Corallo and Genghiz Khan in Mandrea are worth remembering as well as the repulsive route of the Rinascita at Cima alle Coste.

Aldo Leviti and Ermanno Salvaterra First route opened in 1979: Sganzini route on Colodri. Aldo and Ermanno’s routes are all of great class, requiring serious physical and mental effort. The routes via del Bepi and Sganzini on Colodri together with the route Sole Nascente on Cima alle Coste represent still to this day appreciated and sought after ascents.

Roberto Bassi First route opened in 1979: White Crack on Colodri. Roberto concentrated his route opening mainly on the walls of Colodri, above all we find the legendary Zanzara route. His is the first sport route opened from above in the Sarca Valley: the route Specchio delle mie Brame.

Marco Pegoretti and Edoardo Covi First new route in 1980: Luna di Miele route at Pian della Paia. Marco who is a Mountain Guide and Edoardo, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club, make up an extraordinary roped party and have opened on the Sarca walls extremely difficult trad routes. It is worth re-

24

Rolando Larcher

membering the routes Supergrafite on Casale, Pegoretti Covi at Limarò and the extraordinary route La luna and i Falò at Cima alle Coste.

Rolando Larcher First new route in 1983: Ugo Merz on the Primo Pilastro del Casale. A very strong sports climber, a leading protagonist in the Sarca valley for the many very difficult routes opened, both sports routes as well as trad, such as Viaggio nel Passato at Casale or the route La Rosa dei Venti al Dain. Opening Scirocco remains an important feat since it is one of the first routes of that difficulty opened from the ground up.

Umberto Marampon First new route opened in 1985: Bepi Mazzotti on Piccolo Dain. Umberto must be remembered for his beautiful aid climbing ascents. Using his special protection style he put up logical and elegant lines. His fabulous trilogy on Colodri is worth mentioning: the DDT route on Pilastro Zanzara, the Cismon ’93 route on Rupe Secca and the Berto 8.80 route on Rupe del Castello.

Dario Sebastiani First route opened in 1988: Viaggio nel Passato on Casale’s second pillar. Dario, who is an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club has opened new routes which are all very dif-

ficult and severe in mountaineering and mental terms. Viaggio nel Passato at Casale, Gandalf il Mago at Monte Brento and the route Naufraghi in Mandrea represent very sought after and feared ascents.

Diego Filippi First new route in 1992: Vertigine route on Monte Brento. Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and a Mountain Guide. From the great aid climbs on Monte Brento to the more quiet plaisir routes at Mandrea, his routes are many and are scattered around the valley. Among his best sports routes it is worth mentioning Soleado and Moana in Mandrea. Nuvole Bianche and the Casinò Royale at Cima alle Coste. In terms of aid routes: Universo Giallo on Brento, Mauro Rostagno at Dain and the route Fiore di Loto on Monte Colt represent beautiful routes in this style. His collection of routes in the valley and their classification have resulted in three editions of this guide book, which are a strong reference point for climbing on Sarca valley’s walls.

Paolo Calzà

Umberto Marampon

Paolo Calzà First route opened in 1992: Ricci and Capricci route at Rupe Secca.Paolo who is a Mountain Guide has opened routes which are all true masterpieces. Logical and elegant lines, excellent rock and the protection is never abundant.

Worthy of note are Passi Falsi, Sottovuoto and Segantini route on the Colodri wall, repeated and appreciated.

Ivo Rabanser First new route opened in 1992: Freccia nel Cielo at Piccolo Dain. Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and Mountain Guide, Ivo has set up on the Sarca wall many routes. All have a trad imprint. Logical and elegant lines with traditional protection which is never abundant are the characteristics of his ascents. The routes Sintesi and Vecchi tempi at Coste dell’Anglone and the route 23 Settembre at Pian dela Paia represent his style.

Tiberio Quecchia First new route in 1992: Excalibur route in Mandrea. All of Tiberio’s routes, who is an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club are synony-

mous with elegance and difficulty. The routes are not very long but they are definitely intense in terms of both sports climbing and trad climbing. Above all the route Destinazione Paradiso at Cima alle Coste is one of the best routes in the Valley. Let us remember the routes Odissea and Annamaria at Parete Zebrata.

Edy Boldrin and Giacomo Damian First new route in 1992: route Non solo pane on Casale’s first pillar. Edy, Mountain Guide and Gi-

25

26

Roly Galvani

Antonio Zanetti

acomo did not open many routes but the ones they did are of an extraordinary elegance. Their trilogy Non solo Pane, Se la conosci la eviti and Senza chiedere permesso is very famous. Superb routes on excellent rock with safe protection. Other routes which are more like sports routes put up by Edy and Giacomo are La Zeta di Zorro on Piccolo Dain and the route Nikotina on the Gandhi wall.

sensi at Casale, Il Grande Fratello ti guarda on Monte Colt, the Solaris route on Parete Zebrata, Pilastro Massud on Dain, Transeamus on Cima alle Coste, the Totem and Tabù routes on Rupe Secca and many more. He discovered and enhanced entire sectors, such as the Transatlantico, Muro di Oceania, the Antiscudo and the Muro dei Meridiani. Definitely one of the Sarca Valley’s main protagonists.

Andrea Zanetti First route opened in 1993: the route Specchio di Osiride on Cima alle Coste. Great alpinist, very strong sports climber and Mountain Guide.

Andrea, as well as setting up many and difficult alpine routes, such as Il Grande Incubo on Brento and Le placche di Ugand on Casale, had the amazing intuition of setting up the following masterpieces at Limarò: Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici. These two routes are among the most repeated in the entire Sarca Valley.

Massimo Maceri First new route in 1994: Nikotina on the Ghandi wall. All of Massimo’s routes are synonymous with logic and elegance. All his routes are appreciated, both trad and sports. Let’s remember his masterpieces: Baci di Carta on Pala dele Lastiele and the route Genoma on Pian dela Paia. Thanks to him the beautiful sector Cima alle Coste also called Antiscudo was enahnced.

He opened the first routes on the long wall of Anglone, such as the route Codice K and the Ignoranti route.

Roly Galvagni First new route in 1994: routes Lune di Paolo on the Pilastro Afghano at Mandrea.Roly is the founder of plaisir climbing in the Sarca Valley.

His routes are numerous, so many that they are impossible to count. They are all extremely repeated, appreciated and well known. Let’s remember the masterpieces such as Impero dei

Fabio Giacomelli First route opened in 1994: Vento dell’est on Monte Brento. Fabio, a very strong alpinist, put up a few extraordinary and very difficult routes in the valley. His impressive climbs in self belay on the routes Spazio alla Fantasia and Mitica and Nocciolina on the Limarò wall are worth remembering.

Danilo Bonvecchio First route opened in 1994: the Guru Bassi route on Colodri. Very strong sports climber. He opened extremely difficult routes with obligatory free climbing and distant protection. Real masterpieces worth mentioning are the routes Dudaev on Piccolo Dain and Land Art on Transatlantico.

Giuseppe Mantovani First new route in 1995: the routes Vento Caldo del Sud on Monte Colt. With this beautiful route Giuseppe starts the systematic exploration of Monte Colt’s walls, opening a succession of many routes, they are all beautiful and very elegant. After Monte Colt he moves onto the walls of San Paolo and the Coste dell’Anglone opneing beautiful routes which are much appreciated.

The main characteristics found in his routes are excellent rock and protection placed nearby. He is definitely one of the founders of plaisir climbing in the valley.

Heinz Grill

Florian Kluckner

Diego Mabboni First new route in 1997: Il destino del Leone al Monte Colt. Diego who is a mountain guide has set up very difficult sports routes both physically and mentally on Colodri, high difficulties and protection placed far away, these are the characteristics on the routes Red Aragosta and Ciao Fede. Diego’s route Primi Sogni al Colodri is beautiful and classic.

Alberto Damioli First new route in 1997: Un pesce d’acqua dolce on Parete Zebrata. Alberto has opened many routes in the Monte Colt area. All his routes are beautiful and deserve to be climbed, where plaisir climbing prevails on excellent rock with abundant protection. The beautiful routes Vento del Nord and Tu chioda che poi io fa al Monte Colt are worth mentioning.

Ivan Maghella and Danilo Bonaglia First new route in 1998: Uomini della nebbia in Mandrea. Very strong alpinists and sports climbers they have opened many elegant and difficult routes on the Mandrea wall. Common characteristics: elegant itineraries, high diffi-

culties with safe protection which is never abundant. Among the best routes are Oxygen, Sudo ma godo, Il Solco della pesca and the fantastic Spigolo Bonaglia Maghella, all these are on the Mandrea wall.

Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss and Florian Kluckner First new route in 1998: route via del Sole Caldissimo on Monte Brento. Among the most important protagonists in the Sarca Valley, Heinz,

27

Maurizio Giordani

Franz and Florian have opened many surprising routes with a remarkable amount of cleaning and clearing loose rock. Among their routes many are appreciated and repeated. Great masterpieces such as Arcangelo and Le due pareti at Coste dell’Anglone, the route via della Speranza and L’aspettativa di mondi superiori on Brento represent a mixed style between mountaineering and sports climbing. This is a shared characteristic in the majority of their routes. Most of the routes on San Paolo’s walls and Coste dell’Anglone were opened by this amazing group.

membering Perla Bianca on Parete Zebrata and the beautiful Minuetto at Coste dell’Anglone.

Franco Milani, Davide Lunel and Ugo Elfer First new route in 2001: Forbice alla Parete Gandhi. Franco, Davide and Ugo, strong alpinists from Piana Rotaliana have opened many interesting trad routes in the valley, a few are short and others are a lot more difficult. Among the best: Elia al Piccolo Dain and the route Le Placche di Ugand al Casale which represent their style.

Hannes Schnitzer First new route in 2005: Vinschgerwind at Casale. Hannes has not opened many new routes but it is worth remembering his fabulous trilogy on San Paolo’s wall: Spiderman, Weg durch das gesicht and Freiheit die ich meine, these are all extraordinarily beautiful routes with excellent rock, elegant lines and perfect protection.

Mario Brighente First new route in 2003: Spinelo route on Parete Zebrata. He has opened many routes especially on Parete Zebrata and at Coste dell’Anglone.

Routes of great elegance where excellent rock is often found as well as protection placed nearby.

These are typical plaisir routes, it is worth re-

28

Danilo Bonvecchio

Antonio Zanetti and Giorgio Bonvecchio First route opened in 2004: Resentin route on Parete Zebrata. Antonio and Giorgio opened many routes everywhere in the valley. All routes vary from being bolted sports style to typically trad routes. He has opened many routes on Parete Zebrata but also at Coste dell’Anglone and at Cima alle Coste. The great route Ipercasale at Casale is also worth mentioning.

Franco Sartori First new route in 2007: Universo Giallo on Monte Brento. With the Universo Giallo on Monte Brento and the Ipercasale route on Monte Casale Franco is the only alpinist to have opened new routes on the valley’s two largest walls. A great alpinist and sport climber, he has opened many new routes. The Pipistrei route on Cima Coste is worth remembering.

Dario Cabas and Pierangelo Masera First new route in 2007: Anormale route on San Paolo’s wall. Dario and Pierangelo have opened many routes, a few are typically explorative along delicate terrain often with loose rock, others have a more modern and sport conception.

Their routes are concentrated on San Paolo’s wall and the Lakshmi Pyramid. Among the most beautiful routes it is worth mentioning the Caldo Inverno route, Sabine and Via 70° on the wall of San Paolo.

Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro First new route in 2008: Mister Magoo at Piccolo Dain. Gianni who is a Mountain Guide, and Franco an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club with Aldo have set up extraordinary sports routes on the wall of Piccolo Dain. Extreme free climbing with distant protection are the basic ingredients of their routes, which are always strictly opened from the ground up. Masterpieces such as Le Vrai Plaisir and the Tigre il daino e il gladiatore, all on Piccolo Dain, represent the more difficult climbs of this valley.

Ivan Feller and Caludio Masera First new route in 2008: Buon Natale 2008 at Guglia Solidarnosh at Cima alle Coste. Ivan and Claudio who are very strong climbers opened a beautiful series of sports routes on the Sarca walls. Their lines, with generally sport style bolting maintain a trad imprint. The route Il Gigante at Coste dell’Anglone and the Gormiti route at Casale are beautiful.

Luca Pilati First new route in 2009: Esclusivamente per tutti at Piramide Lakshmi. Luca opened many plaisir routes, appreciated and often repeated where the main characteristics are the excellent rock and the bolts placed nearby. He has enhanced entire sectors such as the Parete di Sherwood and the Parete Fabio Giacomelli. Beautiful routes worth remembering are Fantatitoli on Parete Zebrata, the Avancini on Parete Ghandhi and the Pinamonti in Mandrea.

Th e Tr uf fu la Tr ee

An enchanting home surronded by forest

Lake S.Massenza and Toblino

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Trento (25 Km)

Sarche (12 Km) Castel Madruzzo (8 Km)

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Vigo Cavedine

1

Colodri

Monte Colodri This is the mountain overlooking Arco from the north. It has a complex and elaborate structure offering an incredible variety of lines; from the classic routes following cracks and corners, to the sport routes on extremely compact slabs and finally the aid climbs weaving through the pronounced overhangs. These walls started to attract alpinists in the 70s and the most obvious lines were climbed, such as „Bertamini“ and „Barbara“. New routes are continually added each year, there appears to be an inexhaustible mine of routes.

Monte Colodri consists of two principal structures: „Colodri“ and „Rupe Secca“. Colodri is the most important wall both for aspect and dimension. The southern end consists of a repulsive overhanging wall while to the east a high and wide vertical wall is cut by a series of cracks. To the north a perfect slender pillar leans against it. Rupe Secca is its little sister, its eastern side is a dark and vertical face containing the sport climbs. Between Rupe Secca and Colodri a nice and easy ferrata climbs directly to the summit cross of Monte Colodri.

Mandrea

white chiesetta bianca church

Riva del Garda

COLODRI

Monte Colt

ARCO

Arco Castello di Arco Castle

1 39

40

44 45

37 18

13

23

30

24 26

P

car park parcheggio camp site camping torrente Sarca

Torbole

38

12

52

Ferrata dei Colodri

P

Croce del Colodri

32

Ceniga Camping Zoo Salvaterra

Sarche

31

Arco

MESCALITO

RUPE SECCA

white chiesetta church bianca

Via ferrata

COLODRI

Boulder Area

P

PARETE SUD

SOUTH FACE

AGOSTINA

SOMMADOSSI

PARETE EST

EAST FACE

ZANZARA

ZANZARA PILLAR PILASTRO ZANZARA

1a

Colodri

South Face

SOUTH Facing

A very repulsive and overhanging wall. Cut by cracks and corners often closed by large roofs and overhangs. It is the face that overlooks the via ferrata which climbs to the summit of Monte Colodri.

All the routes on this face are difficult and exciting offering a mix of free and aid climbing. It is advisable to climb here during the winter season when there is no traffic along the ferrata. The routes are not often repeated and it is possible to dislodge some loose rocks onto the ferrata below.

0.30 H ACCESS From the parking at the swimming pool take the footpath on the left to the via ferrata and Monte Colodri. At the first wide bend on the ferrata, (when it gets very close to the face), join a track leading to below the overhangs.

1.00 H DESCENT From the end of the routes aim for the summit cross and from here follow the signs to the ferrata and back to the valley.

1. PRIMI SOGNI................................. 180m...... bolts 2. TETTO ZAMBALDI.......................... 240m...... trad 3. BIG LOVE........................................ 180m...... trad 4. MAGIC TRIP................................... 180m...... trad 5. SOTTO VUOTO................................ 180m...... bolts 6. DECIMA SINFONIA........................ 200m...... trad 7. POMI COTI...................................... 200m...... bolts trad 8. CHARLIE CHAPLIN....................... 200m...... trad 9. VIA DEL BEPI................................. 180m...... trad 10. AGOSTINA...................................... 220m...... trad

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33

2

3

4 5

1

7

6

8

2

9

10

11

12

1a Colodri South face

9. VIA DEL BEPI ÙÙÙÙÙ E. Salvaterra, A. Leviti 1980 Lenght: 200 m. (7P) Difficulty: VI+, A0 / R3 / II This is perhaps the most logical and attractive route on the face. After the initial cracks head towards a deep and clean corner which offers athletic climbing. The rock is solid with fairly good protection. The team of Heinz Grill has fixed and improved the route: with bolted anchor points and a general clean up of unstable boulders.

Approach: leave the ferrata at the first wide bend. Follow a track to the large cave and climb the arête on the left following some old bolts.

ÙÙÙÙÙ 9a VARIANTE DI USCITA M. Pegoretti and Compagno 1986 Lenght: 80 m.

Difficulty: VI+, A1 / R3 Once below the final roof, instead of exiting left, this difficult variation follows the thin crack to the right. Athletic climbing along an overhanging crack but easily protectable with nuts and friends.

VI+ Crack fessura

VI Var. Var. exit di uscita

VI+ Traverse traversata sotto ilunder tetto the roof

V

IV jamming fessura ad incastrocrack IV+

VIA DEL BEPI

woods boschetto

V+ V

marked black nero marcato diedro corner

woods boschetto

CHARLIE CHAPLIN

V+ Cornerdiedro crack fessura

VI

bell shaped Chimney

Pulpit pulpito

camino a campana

VI+ V

A0

arete to the left of spigolo a sinistra the cave della grotta

VI+

42

AGOSTINA

Fabio Stabilini Via del Bepi Colodri (Š Sassbaloss)

43

Climbing with your heart

by Giuliano Stenghel

Franco do you remember, after climbing the Ornella route in Val Scodella, when we enjoyed the last rays of sun setting over Biaéna? It was the first time we met after a long long, time, many years had past since we played carefree in our back yard.

Sitting with a rope, cords and carabiners, sipping a bit of water from a water bottle you opened your heart out, your painful scar, to tell me about your life. The episode which has marked the existence of you and your family: the long illness, the death of your child, Katia, who was only five years old, who went into heaven as only angels do. You asked me to open a route and name it after her: a few days later we tied up together to conquer the untouched east face of cima Colodri.

While I pulled up the rope, I looked over the large boulders below the rock face (Marocche di Prabi), I can still taste the pleasant flavor of the coffee Bepi offered us, the old man of Colodri. I see him, near his house, working the land with the strength of a young farmer in his hands.

I continue traversing along a rock face without holds, I abseil down the rope which is clipped into two pegs and I sway: my first pendulum towards the unknown. I have always loved traversing! Probably because by moving across I have solved routes that seemed inaccessible, or else for the aesthetic joy which the image of a man standing out in the horizon gives, showing the verticality as it truly is.

We move slowly due to the large boots, and for the back pack we both carry on our shoulders; but we are weighed down by the heavy weight of our inexperience: we have been climbing for hardly a year.

But we both share the same ideal, the same dream and all the necessary motivation to experience an adventure, fight, suffer. To overcome a crux move, I place three pegs which are hand made.

Poor pegs, one day someone will take you away in spite of the hundreds of roped parties that have used you, loved you, and they will change you with “bolts” and they will do so abseiling from above and using an easy drill.

54

Some of these pegs will probably be forgotten and will be used not to erase history, to avoid wiping out memories, art, the effort of the first ascensionists. Poor, indispensable peg! You are no longer fashionable: you are old and outdated just like the person who placed you on the mountain; what an inglorious end, to lie in a bundle of iron in a scrap yard. Don’t turn over in your grave, it is not worth it.

One day you will rise again!

Now the difficulties have decreased, we climb quickly making the most of the Groaz variant.

Now beyond the easy ledge, half way up, the rock face starts up vertically, alternating with a few overhangs which require some effort, but at the same time offering us magnificent climbing with an elating void below.

A short break, below the last rock step, the last few pitches; finally the summit book, the unforgettable photo of Katia smiling and your dedication: a few words, a prayer, a tear…

Can you cry in the mountains? I think so, if you climb from your heart.

1c Colodri Pilastro Zanzara

35. VIA DEI TRE SPIGOLI ÙÙÙÙÙ D. Filippi 2012 Lenght: 300 m. (12P) Difficulty: A1 / R1 / II This route climbs up a succession of three beautiful arêtes: exposed and vertical. The route, to be climbed completely aid, is totally equipped with expansion bolts. The climbing is always beautiful and the rock is excellent. The last arête is exposed and overhanging in some sections. To repeat this route bring only quickdraws.

Start: from the base of the Zanzara Pillar follow a trail up the scree which climbs up to the right and head below the vertical line of the first, but not very evident, grey arête.

36. PILASTRO NORD ÙÙÙÙÙ D. Filippi 2010 Lenght: 300 m. (9P) Difficulty: V+, VI+, A1 / R2 / II To the right of the Zanzara Pillar on the north face of Monte Colodri, a powerful and evident grey pillar is detached: this gives the direction of the route. Unfortunately this pillar leans onto a buttress of grassy and loose rocks and the first part of the ascent is not so pleasant. But once you have overcome the buttress, the route improves offering fun climbing, a bit of free and aid climbing. The final pitches are wonderful, along cracks and corners of fantastic rock. All in all it is an easy route, fun and well protected, with a flavour of trad, immersed in a quiet and isolated environment. The route is protected with many expansion bolts and bolts on all anchor points.

To repeat the route bring at least 20 quickdraws, a few medium sized friends and etrieres.

Approach: from the base of the Zanzara Pillar, along tracks climb up the tiring scree below Colodri’s north face. Just before reaching the end of the scree (start of Perduta Gente) start up an easy grassy dihedral.

A1

IV+

Crack fessura

short piccolo roof tetto

VI V+

A1

nice bel diedro corner

MICHELUZZI

Third Terzo arête Spigolo

PERDUTA GENTE

VI+ A0 V+

beautiful bellissima lama flake

A1

A1 A1

A1 A1 large ampio

A1 black diedro

Second Secondo arête Spigolo

Corner nero

A1

A1

Chimney camino III woods bosco

A1

woods bosco

III

A1

First Primo arête Spigolo

PERDUTA GENTE

grassyerbose slabs V+ placche Chimney camino V+

A1 IV

Gully with canale conbushes arbusti

A1 MICHELUZZI

PILASTRO NORD VIA DEI TRE SPIGOLI

82

36

35

32

33

35 34 37

36

35 34

32

33

83

2b

Parete di San Paolo

San Paolo North Wall

EAST

Facing

Compared to the sector San Paolo South, here the wall is higher and we find longer and more difficult routes. The beauty of the ascent, added to the easy approach and the quick return make this rock face the most visited sector of the entire Sarca Valley.

0.15 H ACCESS The rock face of San Paolo is very long and at its base a road runs along joining Arco to Ceniga.

Along this road there are 3 comfortable car parks. The first of these, is situated at the locanda “La Lanterna” da Ruggero, an ideal and hospitable place for all climbers. This is the starting point for all the San Paolo routes.

0.40 H DESCENT For all the routes on San Paolo North (from the route Ape Maia to the route via Dulcis in Fondo), follow the path to the right which runs down to Ceniga, and then along an asphalt road, return to the restaurant La Lanterna.

37. APE MAIA........................ 200m............ bolts 38. GIU’ DALLE BRANDE .... 250m............ bolts 39. NEVE D’AUTUNNO ........ 250m............ bolts 40. PER ELA ......................... 280m.....bolts trad 41. IL PERFEZIONISTA ........ 250m.....bolts trad 42. PARETE NERA ............... 250m.....bolts trad 43. LA TARTARUGA .............. 250m.....bolts trad 44. LO SCANSAFATICHE ..... 250m.....bolts trad 45. IL CREDO ....................... 200m..............trad 46. ARIA DI PRIMAVERA ...... 250m.....bolts trad 47. CARITI ............................ 250m.....bolts trad 48. CIRCE ............................. 200m..............trad 49. APHRODITE ................... 250m.....bolts trad 50. CRONO ........................... 200m..............trad 51. BON TON ....................... 200m..............trad 52. SIMPATICHE CANAGLIE .200m..............trad 53. PENELOPE ..................... 200m............ bolts 54. PERSEPHONE ............... 200m.....bolts trad 55. HELENA ......................... 200m.....bolts trad 56. FUGA DALL’ HADES ...... 200m.....bolts trad 57. PILASTRO THEMIS ........ 180m.....bolts trad 58. PANTAREI ...................... 180m............ bolts 59. ISIS ................................. 150m.....bolts trad 60. PORCI CON LE ALI ........ 180m............ bolts 146

61. VIA NUOVA ..................... 150m.....bolts trad 62. ARGO .............................. 150m..............trad 63. AGANIPPE ...................... 150m.....bolts trad 64. DIRADE .......................... 150m.....bolts trad 65. DOLCE MIELE ................ 160m.....bolts trad 66. DEMETRA ...................... 140m.....bolts trad 67. DIONISIO ........................ 130m.....bolts trad 68. NEREIDI ......................... 120m.....bolts trad 69. DUE PICCOLI PILASTRI .130m.....bolts trad 70. GERI ............................... 130m..............trad 71. VIA DELLE AMMONITI ... 120m..............trad 72. BETTAA .......................... 100m..............trad 73. NO MgCO3 ..................... 100m..............trad 74. SIUXSIE .......................... 100m..............trad 75. PUNGITOPO ................... 100m..............trad 76. DULCIS IN FONDO ........ 100m..............trad

Parete San Paolo (ŠFrancesco Salvaterra)

147

3c Monte Colt Parete Sconosciuta

45. TU CHIODA CHE POI IO FA ÙÙÙÙÙ A. Damioli 2007 Lenght: 140 m. (4P) Difficulty: 6b (5c obl.) / S1 / I The first pitch is on beautiful rock featured with sharp holds. Other easy and fun pitches follow, always on solid rock. The protection is excellent and placed nearby.

Approach: after the single pitch sector and the long smooth wall climb up onto a buttress. Just to the right of Vento del Nord.

44. VENTO DEL NORTH ÙÙÙÙÙ A. Damioli 2007 Lenght: 130 m. (3P) Difficulty: 6b+, 1 Move of 6c (6a obl.) / S1 / II A beautiful route, short but on fantastic rock.

The last pitch is spectacular, where a compact and grey wall is tackled. Excellent protection, placed near by.

Approach: after the single pitch sector and the long smooth wall climb up onto a buttress.

Name at base.

4a

4a

facili

diagonal

6b+

nicebellissimo grey wall

easy placche slabs

5c corner diedro obliquo

muro grigio

6b+ small muretto wall

4c

woods bosco

featured

5c placche lavorate slabs grey wall 6a muretto grigio

VENTO DEL NORD

5a

TU CHIODA CHE POI IO FA 5a

grey Risse

fessure grigie

6a 6b

nice red bellissimo wall muro rosso

vertical slab with sharp placca verticale a gocce crimps

6c

6b 6a

Outcrop zoccolo

228

Flakes lame

Via Grande Fratello vi guarda

229

4

Mandrea

Mandrea A long, complex and unified rock barrier. It is not very high but offers a good variety of incredible walls and pillars of every form, colour and dimension. It is home to routes of every difficulty and the rock and silent setting make this one of the most suggestive and attractive sectors in the valley.

All of the routes are splendid and worth repeating, above all the alpine routes which even though relatively short, have enough interest to be enjoyable. This barrier creates and divides two splendid green inhabited valleys, the higher is known as LocalitĂ Mandrea while the lower is LocalitĂ Laghel separating the rocky barrier of Mandrea from the neighbouring spine of Colodri - Monte Colt.

57

San Giovanni

drea

51

55

56

di Man

50

Rupe

47

MANDREA

46

37

acquedotto 36

27

crocefisso

26

stanga P

21

Arco

PILASTRO AFGHANO

20

P

16

PILASTRO POERO

15 14 13

PARETE GIACOMELLI

SALT DELA CAVRA

Monte Colt Colodri

12 5

PILASTRINO TIBET

P

4

white chiesetta church bianca

3

2

1

Arco

234

3° tiro del Pilastro Gabrielli

235

13d

Regina del Lago

Cima al Bal

NORTH Facing

0.10 H ACCESS Once out of the tunnel, continue along the road for another hundred or so metres, just past the junction for Pregasina on the left leave the car in the large car park near the junction. Follow the road for Pregasina and shortly after take the path for Bocca di Lè. Shortly reach the base of the wall where you can see the large chimney where the route runs up. The route begins at the base of the chimney, just to the right.

0.30 H DESCENT Once off the routes, climb up easy rocks until you find evident tracks which run down to the left. Follow the tracks, watch out there are some exposed sections, until you reach the main CAI path, and then along this you easily return to the base.

Alessandro Spinelli via Bella e Cattiva, Regina del Lago, Fiori di Primavera (Š Sassbaloss)

384

28. VIA FALCONE ÙÙÙÙÙ D. Falcone, G. Falcone 2014 Lenght: 230 m. (8P) Difficulty: 6b+, Moves of A0 (6a obl.) / S1 / I Researched and original route, which climbs up a not so marked pillar carved out along the inferior part of a characteristic chimney. After the hard and obnoxious first pitch, the route continues with beautiful and fun pitches. Nice and striking the large chimney along the second pitch, the final pitches along featured slabs with pockets and rock tunnels are exciting. The protection is excellent and abundant with bolts, bring only quickdraws. Excellent rock.

Approach: along an evident grey rounded crack which is also slightly overhanging.

slabs bella placconata 5c nice

3a

rampeeasy facili ramps

3a

5b

VIA FALCONE 6a+

vertical wall 6a+ beautiful bellissimo muro verticale

grassy ledge cengia erbosa

open diedrocorner aperto

6a

A0

6a

deep chimney profondo camino

5c

6b difficult flake lama difficile

6b+

385

19e Coste dell’Anglone Piramide Lakshmi

4a

4a

5a 4c

5c 5c

5b

5a

5c

3a

6b+

5c

5a

5b

5b

6b

5a 4a

5c

5a 6a

5b 6b+

5c

5a

SHERIFFO DI NOTTINGHAM

524

ROBIN HOOD

FRA TAC

5b

LITTLE JOHN

ÙÙÙÙÙ 72. SCERIFFO DI NOTTINGHAM L. Pilati 2009 Lenght: 100 m. (4P) Difficulty: 5c / S1 / I Varied and fun climbing up slabs and little walls.

A few grassy sections do not disturb the climbing too much. Usually good rock with abundant protection (bolts).

Approach: name at base.

ÙÙÙÙÙ 74. FRA TAC L. Pilati 2009 Lenght: 100 m. (4P) Difficulty: 6b+ (obl.5c) / S1 / I Great climbing with difficult sections of lay backing up the first two pitches. Delicate and technical climbing on the last pitch. Excellent rock and abundant protection (bolts).

Approach: name at base.

73. ROBIN HOOD ÙÙÙÙÙ L. Pilati 2009 Lenght: 100 m. (3P) Difficulty: 6b+ (obl. 5c) / S1 / I The slab on the first pitch is beautiful, it has a technical and smeary move which is difficult to read. The last pitch which climbs up an oblique crack is a lot of fun. Excellent rock and abundant protection (bolts) Approach: name at base.

75. LITTLE JOHN L. Pilati 2009 ÙÙÙÙÙ Lenght: 100 m. (4P) Difficulty: 5b / S1 / I Short, easy and fun climbing. After the first two pitches up corners and cracks the route continues up a characteristic pitch on detached pillars.

Excellent rock and abundant protection (bolts).

Approach: name at base.