ARCO Walls vol.2

ARCO Walls

DIEGO FILIPPI

Classic and modern routes in the Sarca Valley VOL.2 - Dro - Pietramurata - Sarche - Vezzano - Terlago

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

iCLIMBING APP

FREE DOWNLOAD

Fourth edition April 2021 ISBN 978 88 55470 339 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Nicola Cont, Speta che vengo, Croz delle Mirandole © Alessandro Castelli Texts and drawings

Diego Filippi

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani and Kenny Stocker

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Davide Vagheggi

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook.

It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

DIEGO FILIPPI

ARCO Walls Classic and modern routes in the Sarca Valley VOL. 2

Dro - Pietramurata - Sarche - Vezzano - Terlago

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

For Giuliano Stenghel Undisputed leading character of climbing in the Sarca Valley and in all of the Upper Garda area thanks to the numerous new routes set up on these walls, all of them with great aesthetics and high mountaineering value.

A sincere and generous man. Loved and esteemed by everyone, he has dedicated his life to solidariety with the Serenella Association, collecting funds to build schools and clinics in the poorest areas of the world.

With a passion and talent for writing, he published dozens of books on alpinism and solidariety, appreciated and renowned, with which he supported the projects of the Serenella Association.

Determined, strong and tough on the rock faces as in his not so easy life, he knew how to be kind and sensitive with friends and climbing partners. Always present and available with the people he loved.

Just as your name was linked to the many rocks of Garda, you have left your example in the hearts of all Trentino mountaineers. Thank you for this.

You will never be forgotten.

Our friend Giuliano left us a few days before this guide was published. He fell from his beloved Tavolara rocks, marvellous island of Sardinia, where he was opening a number of impressive new routes in his usual style. It is a great honour for me to dedicate this book to my friend Giuliano.

Your friend Diego.

4

Giuliano Stenghel

5

Presentation I leafed through the first Sarca Valley Guide book at the beginning of the 80’s, its name was “Al limite del settimo grado:” (to the limit of the seventh grade) and it coincided with my hesitant approach to the area’s rock faces, and as a “kid” (i.e. young non expert), I strictly only climbed seconding.

The book was a bit mysterious to me: names of rock faces and mountains, first ascensionists and repeaters all yet to be discovered. I remember the topos (not many) with rough passages and the photos were all in black and white.

Technically it probably was not a great guide book: if I leaf through it now though, its contents take me back to that period of my adolescence when these kind of things seemed to be only reserved for “older” people whom I looked at with stupor and admiration. Our field of action, in those days, was limited to the Placche Zebrate wall: I climbed wearing boots and my friend often shoulder belayed me, this thing did not worry me at all, since I had seen Luis Trenker do it in an old film. In the preface, Marco Furlani already complained about the area being far too busy and regretted the peace which could be enjoyed back in the old days, but he then went on to say how happy he was to have made so many new friends who shared his same passion.

Since then the Valley has developed incredibly, new routes run up every wall and it seems impossible to find the possibility of developing new lines. I say “it seems” because every time I update this guide book, Diego proposes a number of new routes, proving that there will always be brand new eyes able to read lines where others have not noticed a line as well, or where they have not been stubborn enough to push themselves. Throughout the years I have repeated many classic routes in the Valley, on Colodri, Mandrea, Dain, etc but the move to more difficult routes never suited me and compared to other climbing areas, routes protected using bolts appeared later on.

Climbing in this Valley is never trivial: rock fall, often vertical rock with sections which aren’t al-

6

ways solid require a certain type of effort. This is one of the reasons that motivated me, during the 90’s to look for lines which reflected the “plaisir” character of climbing, even if then it was not defined as such, but climbing was simply called “bolted”.

Over a period of several years, from having only very few climbers who bolted routes, we suddenly found ourselves in a multi-coloured group of climbers, each one with his own style and vision, with varying preferences and levels. I remember the first days, moved by elation: it was as if we rushed from one corner of the Valley to another trying to grab portions of rock by bolting at least one pitch with the aim of returning a second time.

During these outings I had met Diego, more than once, but we had never had the chance to be introduced to one another. The chance came during a nice commemorative evening dedicated to the first ascensionists of Colodri, in which at full throttle he proposed a new route on the left of Vertigine (the future Universo giallo). I kindly declined because I told him that the 90 metres of Born to kill, at Rupe di Porcile, were currently more than enough to appease my love of aid climbing.

During that period – year 2000 – at his house, Diego showed me a pile of sheets: topos, sketches, photos, an impressive amount of work, which from then to a few years later would have turned into the first edition of the guide book “Pareti del Sarca”, 2002. I do not wish to, and wouldn’t be able to, retrace the history of climbing in the Valley: mine is only the testimony of any old climber, who as well as being the author’s friend, has had the luck of sharing new openings and new adventures, so much so that this friendship has been named “Amici del sottobosco” (to remind us not to take this game called climbing too seriously). The only serious thing we care about is our life, ours and for those repeating our routes.

Both of us experienced dangerous situations during the first years of our climbing activity due to inexperience and ignorance, or due to

Nicola Ferrari su via Luca Franz Franceschini (© Manuele Fox)

that youthful wrath which leads you to believe that you are immortal; once this phase has been overcome, we have learned to love ourselves and accept our limits, having fun, fully aware of our fragilities.

In almost 20 years we have climbed many routes, many have been repeated classics, not only in the Valley, but also around the Dolomites and other areas. I don’t remember the grades or single moves very well, but rather I remember the feelings, the good laughs and particular

situations which I like to share with the following lines. Mid 80’s after repeating with a friend a classic route on the Placche Zebrate, we meet a weird guy at the start of Luna 85, with a smart moustache: he had just bolted a variant named Full, he said it was the hardest route he had ever climbed in the area. Those words were etched in my memory. I made a clumsy attempt, but with my terrible shoes and inexperience, I could hardly get off the ground. A few years later though, wearing my Mariacher climbing

7

shoes I managed to climb the variant. I am fully aware that we are currently experiencing the era of 9c, and that certain difficulties can seem ridiculous, but climbing those 25 metres with only 3,4 bolts to protect them was very satisfying for me. The weird guy’s name was Arturo Tamanini, an authentic local genius of the wall, author of the amazing “Un lungo flash”, opened from the ground up with normal pegs and hand placed bolts, as well as the difficult “Emozioni al Brento”. Another fun episode was when together with Michl I took the chair onto the anchor point of Delta di Venere on the Transatlantico wall. Climbing up the road we met a group of curious hunters who wondered what that chair was doing tied up to our backpack. We said that we weren’t made for such a long walk and that every now and then we needed a seat to catch our breath….

One evening, at the car park of Placche Zebrate, while we were organizing the gear after opening a route, a dark Audi car stopped, the two people sitting inside put big bags on their back and passing by one of them cheerily said “Griess enck” (which means: hello) it was David Lama. “ They are definitely not going to climb a route on the Placche” we thought. In fact they were opening “Brento Centro”, first route free climbed to overcome those impressive overhangs.

Ten or so years ago we collected some signatures, after the publication of an appeal letter which as a protest, had a list of our routes that shouldn’t be repeated. This group, created on an online forum, accused us of not respecting the “sacredeness” of the rocks and “killing” the principles of integrity of the environment and the mountains.

This incident truly made us reflect on the climbing environment we live in which loves to consider itself free and open minded. It was a bit disheartening to discover that here too, as in other contexts there are people who like to rise above and consider themselves judges, condemning in the name of moralism and defending tradition, transforming into doctrine what should simply be a beautiful expression of free creativity. I would have liked to tell them that as well as protecting the route we spent days creating access to the structures, marked the return paths ade-

8

quately, cleared the rock faces from dangerous boulders, re-bolted abseil points and cleaned the routes.

As Diego reminded me, the Sarca Valley has become a great climbing centre thanks to the initiative of many alpinists and non professional bolters. Many different mentalities and ways of approaching climbing which have contributed to diversifying the routes depending on one’s level and creativity. I don’t know what the future offers us, even if I fear there will be an institutionalization of this free expression, one of the most recent which has gotten out of control from commissions or various authorities. Whatever happens, we will cherish a lovely memory of precious time spent in these wide open spaces, during which, chasing dreams we almost risked to lose ourselves like children. This is because climbing is essentially a game, even if we want to confer it other meanings, bringing it back to the things “one has to do” and which, in daily every day life, we define as “problems”.

A heartfelt thanks to my friend Diego for allowing me to write these lines. I wish him the umpteenth deserved success for his passion and the effort he has always puts into his projects. To the future beneficiaries I invite you to read beyond the data and numbers, to catch the magic of this marvellous area, defined in many different ways, but which will simply represent to us “Nar en Val” (head to the Valley…)

Roly Galvagni

Luca Danieli Ph. Christian Varrone

SPORT FOOTWEAR FREE TIME

ANDE.IT #ANDEXPLORE

Acknowledgements Without a doubt, a guide book like this one, needs collaborators and for this reason I have to sincerely thank alpinists and climbers who gave me precious help in terms of topos, photos and sketches. I would like to publicly thank Francesco Salvaterra, Simone Banal, Gianni Canale, Alessandro Beber and Ivan Maghella. They all are very strong alpinists and Mountain Guides, always active and present in the Sarca Valley. Furthermore I cannot forget the help and support of my dearest friends like Roly Galvagni, Matteo Bertolotti, Christian Della Maria and Luca Pilati. Without the contribution of my friends it would have been very difficult to create a complete and up to date guide book like this one. A big and heartfelt thank you goes to all alpinists and climbers who dedicate their time and money to opening and creating new routes, making our Sarca Valley increasingly richer and more beautiful. Last but not least, a thank you to Versante Sud, which has believed and invested in this guide book for many years.

DIEGO FILIPPI Guida Alpina B e rg f ü h re r Mountain Guide

e - m a i l : s a rc a v a l l e y @ g m a i l . c o m phone: 3487658394

10

Paolo Grisa su Rampa Centrale - Due Laghi

11

Introduction After the first three editions, respectively in 2002, 2007 and 2013, here we are finally in the year 2020 for this fourth edition. Punctually, every 5 or 6 years I find myself editing a new edition and I am always surprised by the quantity of work this entails. As well as the 260 extra routes added, I have to review, correct and change photos of texts and topos. Many things change throughout the years, all you need to think about is the car park of Ciclamino al Pian dela paia: the motor-cross track has become so big that it is no longer possible to reach the start of the rock faces. The same can be said of the large quarry of Casale or the new works above Sarche. In these cases, the approach and the return have been changed. The meticulous Heinz Grill team, in constant search of perfection, continuously improve their routes by changing a pitch, an anchor point or making new variants.

Furthermore, they take care of old routes, cleaning the rock from vegetation and changing trails.

Therefore it becomes difficult to write up to date topos, which are perfect and correspond to reality.

Especially in our Valle del Sarca, which mountaineering wise is in continuous movement and always growing. This work has always had a double objective: describe the routes present in the valley and do so in the most detailed and precise way possible.

In the first three editions the rock faces were mainly concentrated between Sarche and Arco, but now the area has grown a lot and we can now describe 23 new sectors for a total of 260 unpublished new routes: together with the 520 routes described in the last edition that makes a total of 780 routes, spread out along 33 sectors.

You will realise that it was impossible to present it all in one unique volume of 1200 pages, so we have decided to describe the first volume, which was published in October 2020, from the more classic part with the most popular routes around Arco, ranging across the Lake Garda area and leaving to this second book the most anticipated content for anyone who loves adventure and explorative alpinism: Next to the friendly and reassuring Placche Zebrate, you will find the rock faces which loom over the valley near Sarche and Pietramurata and which continue towards the Valle dei Laghi, where new routes are still being developed: the opportunities for climbing on the walls of Fraveggio as well as on the walls of the Limarò canyon are anything but exhausted In a few words, there will be plenty to repeat, climb and describe for the next few years. To reach 1000 multi pitch routes with the two volumes would be a fantastic result, an ambitious feat for the next editions. We will therefore see you in another 5,6 years time, Inshallah as some say...For now all I can do is to wish everyone great enjoyment and climbing!

Diego Filippi

12

Index Technical introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Leading characters of Sarca Valley . . . . . . 22

20. CIMA ALLE COSTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 20a. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20b. Lo Scudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20c. Parete Sud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20d. Guglia Solidarnosh . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20e. L’Antiscudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36 48 72 78 84

21. LASTRONI DI DRO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 22. GOLA DEL RIO SALLAGONI . . . . . . . . . 102 23. MONTE BRENTO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 23a. Grande Placconata . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23b. Pilastro Magro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23c. Strapiombi Centrali . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23d. Parete Est . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23e. Torre Grigia del Brento . . . . . . . . .

110 124 130 142 150

24. PARETE ZEBRATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

24a. Settore Sportivo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 24b. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 24c. Pala dele Lastiele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

25. PIAN DELA PAIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

27. MONTE CASALE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 27a. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27b. Secondo Pilastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27c. Primo Pilastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27d. Muro dei Meridiani . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27e. Croz dei Pini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27f. Spalla Sud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

302 310 322 346 350 362

28. PICCOLO DAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 28a. Parete Sud Est . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28b. Avancorpo Parete Sud Est . . . . . . .

28c. Parete del Limarò . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28d. Parete della Centrale . . . . . . . . . . .

28e. Parete Ovest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

374 400 404 424 432

29. GOLA DEL LIMARÒ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 29a. Piramide Bondai e Pilastro Chiara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29b. Parete Centrale e Pilastro di Destra . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29c. Parete Giungla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29d. Parete Crispino Salvaterra . . . . . .

438 446 456 458

30. PARETE DUE LAGHI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468

30a. Parete due Laghi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 30b. L’Abbaino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486

25a. Il Transantlantico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 25b. Parete Gandhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 25c. Il Dain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254

31. RUPE DI SANTA MASSENZA . . . . . . . . 490

26. TORRE DI PIETRAMURATA . . . . . . . . . 292

33. RUPE DI PORCILE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508

26a. Torre di Pietramurata . . . . . . . . . . . 294 26b. Muro delle Camerete . . . . . . . . . . . 298

32. CROZ DELLE MIRANDOLE . . . . . . . . . . . 500

LEADING CHARACTERS New Routes in the Valley by Heinz Grill . . . . . . . . . 32

Via Nuova al Dain by Angelo Ursella . . . . . . . . . . . 380

Via della Clessidra by Maurizio Giordani . . . . . . . . 46

Piccolo Dain Via Valerio Fontana

by Matteo Bertolotti and Paolo Grisa . . . . . . . . . . 382

Via del Missile by Giuliano Stenghel . . . . . . . . . . . 334 14

33

Monte Terlago

N VALLE DEL SARCA

Terlago Cadine

Fraveggio Ranzo

31

32

29

Vezzano TRENTO

CAMPIGLIO 30

ARCO PARETI VOL.2

28

Sarche

PIETRAMURATA 23 Monte Brento 24 Parete Zebrata 25 Pian dela Paia 26 Torre di Pietramurata

27

26

San Giovanni

Pietramurata

25 24 23

Drena

20 22

Mandrea

DRO 20 Cima alle Coste 21 Lastoni di Dro 22 Gola del Rio Sallagoni

Dro

SARCHE 27 Monte Casale 28 Piccolo Dain 29 Gola del Limarò 30 Parete Due Laghi VEZZANO 31 Rupe di Santa Massenza 32 Croz dele Mirandole TERLAGO 33 Rupe di Porcile

21

Ceniga Padaro

Tenno

Arco

Bolognano

Riva Nago Biacesa

Torbole Passo San Giovanni

Pregasina

lago di Garda

ROVERETO

15

Technical Introduction ACCESS BY ROAD The faces included in this guide extend from Sarche along the valley to Arco. Precipitating from the summits of Monte Casale and Monte Brento, they are visible from the road on the right-hand side of the valley. Together Sarche and Arco mark both the entrance and the exit of the valley and are easily reached from the A22 motorway (Brennero-Modena). Arriving from the North leave the motorway at “Trento Centro” and follow the indications for Lago di Garda or Madonna di Campiglio. It is possible to reach Sarche in c. 30 minutes from Trento. Arriving from the South exit the motorway at “Rovereto Sud” and follow the indications for Lago di Garda and Arco which is reached in c. 20 minutes from Rovereto.

Via dall’antistoria alla storia - Coste dell’Anglone

16

LOGISTICAL BACK UP POINTS Alpinists (who are nearly always penniless), will find the best bases to be the campsites in Arco and Pietramurata. The first are found under the Colodri cliffs close to the communal swimming pool, while the second is found behind Hotel Daino on the main road running along the valley. Hotels and restaurants can be found along the length of the valley. For your hunger, other than the many bars in Arco, I would like to pick out the small “Lunelli” food store in Sarche, well known for their “paninis” of every flavour and dimension.

THE ROCK FACES The greatest quality of Valle del Sarca is that it offers a vast variety of itineraries, both alpine

The best multipitch routes in Sarca Valley and in Dolomites.

High mountain and grand courses in Adamello-Presanella and in the Alps.

Learn the basics and follow your own path: mountaineering and climbing courses.

Expeditions and climbing travel all over the world.

and sport. Alpinists will find something to sink their teeth into on the sweeping walls of Brento or Casale, while for training needs the more modest walls of Pian dela Paia or Mandrea offer shorter alpine masterpieces. The sport climber has an embarrassing choice of equipped routes at every difficulty and length. I love this valley and the style of climbing it offers, even if it can often be vegetated and loose. Therefore do not be surprised if I turn up and recommend a fantastic long vegetated crack, the Valley is like this..

EQUIPMENT I do not think that it is worth spending much time chewing over which equipment should be carried, everyone will have their own pref- erences. However I would like to recommend a few things. Carry a good selection of pegs, nuts and friends on all of the alpine routes. An etrier can also be useful and it is also a good idea to carry some short slings or cord in case of retreat. For the aid climbs it is fundamental to take a hand drill and some bolts. It would be a shame to fail on a route just because an old bolt had fallen out. It can also be useful to have at hand an etrier on some of the longer sport routes. This will help you to quickly bypass bouldery sections.. especially when fatigue begins to make itself felt. Every route should be approached with 2 half ropes, perhaps twins. A single rope should be banned from multi-pitch routes and saved for the crag! During hot spells it is advisable to carry a lot of water, and it is worthwhile remembering that in winter, even if the day is hot, an icy wind frequently forms in the afternoon.

unlocked in the described car parks. Thefts are frequent but you can at least save a window or lock. Finally some advice for climbers who climb with a hand drill. Do not add bolts to the classic routes! It is not creative and destroys the poetry and the adventure one searches for, debasing the significance of the original ascent. Another reason I wanted to create this guide was to record and celebrate this side of traditional alpinism, it is part of me therefore do not be surprised if someone like me will remove them!

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE The guide book, consists of two volumes NORTH and SOUTH, and is split up in 33 chapters which refer to the 33 main rocky sectors of the valley.

Every sector described, or at least mentioned, includes all the routes that now exist. Each sector starts with a heading indicating the number of the sector and the group to which it belongs.

After a brief introduction I describe: - Access, a description of how to arrive at the cliff and the time needed from the car to the foot of the face. The approach is described in detail and then singularly for each and every route.

- Descent, a description of the best descent route and the time needed. In general these are the same for every route in the same sector.

- List of the routes with length and route type (sport or alpine).

- Description of the itineraries, with the line, photo, brief description and all of the technical data.

- Other routes, a list of unknown and less interesting itineraries that I have wanted to record for their explorative and historic importance.

MOUNTAIN RESCUE In case you need help call 112 ADVICE This guide book has been written with the utmost care and attention, however there are bound to be some details incomplete, imprecise or even omitted. For this I apologise to the reader in advance, and hope you will collaborate by bringing them to the attention of the publishers in order to make subsequent editions more complete. Leave your car completely empty and

18

BEAUTY RATINGS

Ù Not recommended, best to let it go ÙÙ Fairly good, for who’s climbed everything ÙÙÙ Good, a route worth repeating ÙÙÙÙÙ A quality route and highly recommend ÙÙÙÙÙ Awesome, the best that the valley has

to offer, a route not to be missed.

Attention! These ratings are personal and absolutely subjective

WEATHER The most reliable forecast, if you have a computer, is that supplied by the Province of Trento. www.provincia.tn.it/meteo or telephone + 39 0461238939.

PROTECTION I have used a scale that takes into account the distance and reliability of the protection using the letter “R” (for risk). In the case that the route is bolted the “R” is substituted by an “S”, and the grade is intended to indicate the distance between bolts. For mixed routes I have used “RS”.

Influenced by the grading for aid climbs this table is subdivided in to six grades, where grade 6 indicates a distance nearly or totally unprotectable with a high risk of a fatal fall. Naturally the scale is open ended.

ROUTES EVALUATION To thoroughly classify each route we have used the extended grading system which separates the general effort of a route (setting, distance from the valley, total length, pyschological engagement) from the distance and placement of the protection. All this is separate from the technical difficulties, commonly expressed using the French or UIAA grading system. We have therefore three parameters and three different scales to place alongside the description of a route: the technical difficulty, how easy it is to protect a route and the level of commitment. To have a precise idea of a route it is necessary to express all three, because taken singularly they do not provide the climber with enough information.

PROTECTION S1

Normal protection system such as on cliffs.

Average dis- tance between bolts: 3,4 metres.

Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R1

Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protec- tions. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2

Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

R2

Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protec- tions. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S3

Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

R3

Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

S4

Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory pas- sages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

R4

Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall. Long com- pulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

S5

Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

R5

Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protec- tions, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

S6

Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

R6

Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant pas- sages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

19

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY The classic routes, those equipped with pegs or not equipped at all have adopted the UIAA scale expressed in roman numerals. This is to maintain a continuity with the previous guide, the alpine climbing tradition of the valley and to avoid regrading all of the itineraries already classified by the UIAA scale with the French scale.

For modern and sport routes, those protected by bolts, the French scale has been applied.

OVERALL FEATURES Evaluating the commitment needed for a route, the setting, the difficulty of escape and the distance from the road we have substituted the classic French scale (TD, ED..) with one that is used in America to grade the big walls. Expressed in Roman numerals from I to VII (an open ended scale) it sits along side the technical difficulty. Since the technical difficulty of a route is unrelated to the overall commitment it is always expressed together with the roman numeral.

OVERALL FEATURES I

II

20

Short route just taking a few hours, near the road and with a comfortable approach track, nice surrounding and easy downclimb.

Multi-pitch route on a wall of more than 200 metres of length, easy approach track, rather long, easy downclimb.

III

Long route of more than 300 metres that will take all day long, difficult surrounding. Long approach track and rather slow downclimb.

IV

Very long route of more than 500 metres, on severe wall far away from the bottom of the valley.

It will take you all day long and the downclimb might be compli- cated, as you can’t climb down the same route.

V

VI

VII

Very long route, big wall style, requires a bivvi on the wall. Difficult downclimb, difficult surrounding.

Big wall which requires more days on the walls, High Mountain surrounding, difficult downclimb.

All the features of the 6th grade, but exasperated, such as on big walls in the Himalayas, which need a real expedition.

Leading characters in the Sarca Valley If the great Sarca Valley climbing wonderland exists at all it is thanks to the efforts of all the alpinists who set up routes on these walls. After the first timid explorations in the 1930s, and apart from Cesare Maestri’s visit at Limarò in the 50s, the valley remained neglected for a long time. Real exploration started in 1970 and the routes and alpinists have been multiplying ever since.

Marcello Friederichsen and Luigi Miori Main protagonists after opening in 1933 the first route in the Sarca valley on the large Casale wall. A great ascent for those days, if one considers that it is over 1000 metres long and offers difficulties up to sixth grade.

Bruno Detassis

Bruno Detassis First route opened in 1935: Gran Diedro route at Casale. Bruno, by opening the Grand Diedro route and the Canna d’Organo route on Piccolo Dain, certainly represents one of the very first explorers of the Sarca Valley. These routes are still considered difficult and are rarely repeated.

Heinz Steinkotter and Heini Holzer First route opened in 1966: Steinkotter route at Cima alle Coste.Heinz was the first great explorer of the walls in the valley. We must remember his routes at Casale, Cima alle Coste and Monte Brento. Great routes, trad style, very long, with remarkable total length, requiring both physical and mental commitment. Heini should be remembered for his fantastic trilogy on the Pian dela Paia: Holzer Reali route, the Gran Diedro and the Traudi route which still today are routes which are both coveted and feared.

Andrea Andreotti, Marcello Rossi and Franco Gadotti First new route in 1971: Rita route on Parete Zebrata. Andrea and Marcello were great explorers of the Sarca Valley walls. First ones to brave the Grande Placconata of Monte Brento opening the Graziella route. Together with young Franco Gadotti they then took up the challenge of other great walls: the Betti arête on Brento, Vedovel-

22

la on the Casale and Gadotti on Limarò which today are still seen as serious routes of great mountaineering value. Franco Gadotti was also present when opening the magnificent Via degli Amici on Monte Brento.

Mauro Ischia and Ugo Ischia First route opened in 1972: Bertamini route on Colodri.The Ischia cousins deserve credit for having challenged Colodri’s vertiginous walls for years, setting up true masterpieces such as the Bertamini route and the Barbara and Sommadossi routes. Other routes are found on San Paolo or in Mandrea, such as the historic and classic Fontane route.

Giovanni Groaz and Palma Baldo First route opened in 1978: Baldo Groaz at Pian dela Paia.Among the great explorers of the valley let us remember the couple Giovanni, Mountain Guide and Palma, opened many routes some of which required great effort as for example, the route Palma at Brento, and others which have become famous and extremely repeated such as the route Vegetable and Kerouac at Pian dela Paia. Giovanni also opened great masterpieces

Maurizio Zanolla

Giuliano Stenghel

Giuliano Stenghel First new route in 1976: Agostina route on Colodri.Giuliano, Mountain Guide is one of the leading characters in the Sarca Valley, his masterpieces are countless. The Missile route on Casale, the Pilastro Gabrielli in Mandrea, Big Bang route on Pian dela Paia are examples of bravery and mountaineering logic. A great explorer of untouched walls, he has set up routes in every corner of the valley, all of undisputed historical and mountaineering value. Giuliano’s other masterpieces are: the Stenico route, Katia and Micheluzzi routes on Colodri, the route Mario Centi on Anglone and the Pilastro Olimpos on the Pala dele Lastiele. The Emanuele Zenatti route, the Andrea Calliari and the route magnesio dalla roccia to Parete Ghandi. The Pilastro Einstein and the feared route Follia al Casale.

such as the Gadotti route on Pilastro Magro, the Amici route on Monte Brento and the Pilastro Gobbo at Casale.

Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo” First new route opened in 1978: the Gadotti route on Pilastro Magro. Manolo has not opened many routes in the Sarca Valley, his feared route at Pilastro Magro and the undisputed masterpiece the Zanzara route on Colodri is worth remembering. The great classic ascent at Pian dela Paia like Cesare Levis and the route Factotum are also Manolo’s.

Marco Furlani First route opened in 1978: Amicizia route on Parete Zebrata. Great alpinist, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and Mountain Guide, Marco has put up on the Sarca walls many great alpine masterpieces, which require great effort. Let us remember the route Anniversario al Brento, the route Alba Chiara at Casale and the route Luce del Primo Mattino al Piccolo Dain.

Maurizio Giordani First route opened in 1979: Black Hole route in Mandrea. Great alpinist, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club. His achievements on the walls of the Sarca valley are remarkable. Com-

23

Roberto Bassi

mon characteristic is the high difficulties in free climbing. The routes Fiore di Corallo and Genghiz Khan in Mandrea are worth remembering as well as the repulsive route of the Rinascita at Cima alle Coste.

Aldo Leviti and Ermanno Salvaterra First route opened in 1979: Sganzini route on Colodri. Aldo and Ermanno’s routes are all of great class, requiring serious physical and mental effort. The routes via del Bepi and Sganzini on Colodri together with the route Sole Nascente on Cima alle Coste represent still to this day appreciated and sought after ascents.

Roberto Bassi First route opened in 1979: White Crack on Colodri. Roberto concentrated his route opening mainly on the walls of Colodri, above all we find the legendary Zanzara route. His is the first sport route opened from above in the Sarca Valley: the route Specchio delle mie Brame.

Marco Pegoretti and Edoardo Covi First new route in 1980: Luna di Miele route at Pian della Paia. Marco who is a Mountain Guide and Edoardo, Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club, make up an extraordinary roped party and have opened on the Sarca walls extremely difficult trad routes. It is worth re-

24

Rolando Larcher

membering the routes Supergrafite on Casale, Pegoretti Covi at Limarò and the extraordinary route La luna and i Falò at Cima alle Coste.

Rolando Larcher First new route in 1983: Ugo Merz on the Primo Pilastro del Casale. A very strong sports climber, a leading protagonist in the Sarca valley for the many very difficult routes opened, both sports routes as well as trad, such as Viaggio nel Passato at Casale or the route La Rosa dei Venti al Dain. Opening Scirocco remains an important feat since it is one of the first routes of that difficulty opened from the ground up.

Umberto Marampon First new route opened in 1985: Bepi Mazzotti on Piccolo Dain. Umberto must be remembered for his beautiful aid climbing ascents. Using his special protection style he put up logical and elegant lines. His fabulous trilogy on Colodri is worth mentioning: the DDT route on Pilastro Zanzara, the Cismon ’93 route on Rupe Secca and the Berto 8.80 route on Rupe del Castello.

Dario Sebastiani First route opened in 1988: Viaggio nel Passato on Casale’s second pillar. Dario, who is an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club has opened new routes which are all very dif-

ficult and severe in mountaineering and mental terms. Viaggio nel Passato at Casale, Gandalf il Mago at Monte Brento and the route Naufraghi in Mandrea represent very sought after and feared ascents.

Diego Filippi First new route in 1992: Vertigine route on Monte Brento. Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and a Mountain Guide. From the great aid climbs on Monte Brento to the more quiet plaisir routes at Mandrea, his routes are many and are scattered around the valley. Among his best sports routes it is worth mentioning Soleado and Moana in Mandrea. Nuvole Bianche and the Casinò Royale at Cima alle Coste. In terms of aid routes: Universo Giallo on Brento, Mauro Rostagno at Dain and the route Fiore di Loto on Monte Colt represent beautiful routes in this style. His collection of routes in the valley and their classification have resulted in three editions of this guide book, which are a strong reference point for climbing on Sarca valley’s walls.

Paolo Calzà

Umberto Marampon

Paolo Calzà First route opened in 1992: Ricci and Capricci route at Rupe Secca.Paolo who is a Mountain Guide has opened routes which are all true masterpieces. Logical and elegant lines, excellent rock and the protection is never abundant.

Worthy of note are Passi Falsi, Sottovuoto and Segantini route on the Colodri wall, repeated and appreciated.

Ivo Rabanser First new route opened in 1992: Freccia nel Cielo at Piccolo Dain. Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club and Mountain Guide, Ivo has set up on the Sarca wall many routes. All have a trad imprint. Logical and elegant lines with traditional protection which is never abundant are the characteristics of his ascents. The routes Sintesi and Vecchi tempi at Coste dell’Anglone and the route 23 Settembre at Pian dela Paia represent his style.

Tiberio Quecchia First new route in 1992: Excalibur route in Mandrea. All of Tiberio’s routes, who is an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club are synony-

mous with elegance and difficulty. The routes are not very long but they are definitely intense in terms of both sports climbing and trad climbing. Above all the route Destinazione Paradiso at Cima alle Coste is one of the best routes in the Valley. Let us remember the routes Odissea and Annamaria at Parete Zebrata.

Edy Boldrin and Giacomo Damian First new route in 1992: route Non solo pane on Casale’s first pillar. Edy, Mountain Guide and Gi-

25

26

Roly Galvani

Antonio Zanetti

acomo did not open many routes but the ones they did are of an extraordinary elegance. Their trilogy Non solo Pane, Se la conosci la eviti and Senza chiedere permesso is very famous. Superb routes on excellent rock with safe protection. Other routes which are more like sports routes put up by Edy and Giacomo are La Zeta di Zorro on Piccolo Dain and the route Nikotina on the Gandhi wall.

sensi at Casale, Il Grande Fratello ti guarda on Monte Colt, the Solaris route on Parete Zebrata, Pilastro Massud on Dain, Transeamus on Cima alle Coste, the Totem and Tabù routes on Rupe Secca and many more. He discovered and enhanced entire sectors, such as the Transatlantico, Muro di Oceania, the Antiscudo and the Muro dei Meridiani. Definitely one of the Sarca Valley’s main protagonists.

Andrea Zanetti First route opened in 1993: the route Specchio di Osiride on Cima alle Coste. Great alpinist, very strong sports climber and Mountain Guide.

Andrea, as well as setting up many and difficult alpine routes, such as Il Grande Incubo on Brento and Le placche di Ugand on Casale, had the amazing intuition of setting up the following masterpieces at Limarò: Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici. These two routes are among the most repeated in the entire Sarca Valley.

Massimo Maceri First new route in 1994: Nikotina on the Ghandi wall. All of Massimo’s routes are synonymous with logic and elegance. All his routes are appreciated, both trad and sports. Let’s remember his masterpieces: Baci di Carta on Pala dele Lastiele and the route Genoma on Pian dela Paia. Thanks to him the beautiful sector Cima alle Coste also called Antiscudo was enahnced.

He opened the first routes on the long wall of Anglone, such as the route Codice K and the Ignoranti route.

Roly Galvagni First new route in 1994: routes Lune di Paolo on the Pilastro Afghano at Mandrea.Roly is the founder of plaisir climbing in the Sarca Valley.

His routes are numerous, so many that they are impossible to count. They are all extremely repeated, appreciated and well known. Let’s remember the masterpieces such as Impero dei

Fabio Giacomelli First route opened in 1994: Vento dell’est on Monte Brento. Fabio, a very strong alpinist, put up a few extraordinary and very difficult routes in the valley. His impressive climbs in self belay on the routes Spazio alla Fantasia and Mitica and Nocciolina on the Limarò wall are worth remembering.

Danilo Bonvecchio First route opened in 1994: the Guru Bassi route on Colodri. Very strong sports climber. He opened extremely difficult routes with obligatory free climbing and distant protection. Real masterpieces worth mentioning are the routes Dudaev on Piccolo Dain and Land Art on Transatlantico.

Giuseppe Mantovani First new route in 1995: the routes Vento Caldo del Sud on Monte Colt. With this beautiful route Giuseppe starts the systematic exploration of Monte Colt’s walls, opening a succession of many routes, they are all beautiful and very elegant. After Monte Colt he moves onto the walls of San Paolo and the Coste dell’Anglone opneing beautiful routes which are much appreciated.

The main characteristics found in his routes are excellent rock and protection placed nearby. He is definitely one of the founders of plaisir climbing in the valley.

Heinz Steinkotter

Florian Kluckner

Diego Mabboni First new route in 1997: Il destino del Leone al Monte Colt. Diego who is a mountain guide has set up very difficult sports routes both physically and mentally on Colodri, high difficulties and protection placed far away, these are the characteristics on the routes Red Aragosta and Ciao Fede. Diego’s route Primi Sogni al Colodri is beautiful and classic.

Alberto Damioli First new route in 1997: Un pesce d’acqua dolce on Parete Zebrata. Alberto has opened many routes in the Monte Colt area. All his routes are beautiful and deserve to be climbed, where plaisir climbing prevails on excellent rock with abundant protection. The beautiful routes Vento del Nord and Tu chioda che poi io fa al Monte Colt are worth mentioning.

Ivan Maghella and Danilo Bonaglia First new route in 1998: Uomini della nebbia in Mandrea. Very strong alpinists and sports climbers they have opened many elegant and difficult routes on the Mandrea wall. Common characteristics: elegant itineraries, high diffi-

culties with safe protection which is never abundant. Among the best routes are Oxygen, Sudo ma godo, Il Solco della pesca and the fantastic Spigolo Bonaglia Maghella, all these are on the Mandrea wall.

Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss and Florian Kluckner First new route in 1998: route via del Sole Caldissimo on Monte Brento. Among the most important protagonists in the Sarca Valley, Heinz,

27

Maurizio Giordani

Franz and Florian have opened many surprising routes with a remarkable amount of cleaning and clearing loose rock. Among their routes many are appreciated and repeated. Great masterpieces such as Arcangelo and Le due pareti at Coste dell’Anglone, the route via della Speranza and L’aspettativa di mondi superiori on Brento represent a mixed style between mountaineering and sports climbing. This is a shared characteristic in the majority of their routes. Most of the routes on San Paolo’s walls and Coste dell’Anglone were opened by this amazing group.

membering Perla Bianca on Parete Zebrata and the beautiful Minuetto at Coste dell’Anglone.

Franco Milani, Davide Lunel and Ugo Elfer First new route in 2001: Forbice alla Parete Gandhi. Franco, Davide and Ugo, strong alpinists from Piana Rotaliana have opened many interesting trad routes in the valley, a few are short and others are a lot more difficult. Among the best: Elia al Piccolo Dain and the route Le Placche di Ugand al Casale which represent their style.

Hannes Schnitzer First new route in 2005: Vinschgerwind at Casale. Hannes has not opened many new routes but it is worth remembering his fabulous trilogy on San Paolo’s wall: Spiderman, Weg durch das gesicht and Freiheit die ich meine, these are all extraordinarily beautiful routes with excellent rock, elegant lines and perfect protection.

Mario Brighente First new route in 2003: Spinelo route on Parete Zebrata. He has opened many routes especially on Parete Zebrata and at Coste dell’Anglone.

Routes of great elegance where excellent rock is often found as well as protection placed nearby.

These are typical plaisir routes, it is worth re-

28

Danilo Bonvecchio

Antonio Zanetti and Giorgio Bonvecchio First route opened in 2004: Resentin route on Parete Zebrata. Antonio and Giorgio opened many routes everywhere in the valley. All routes vary from being bolted sports style to typically trad routes. He has opened many routes on Parete Zebrata but also at Coste dell’Anglone and at Cima alle Coste. The great route Ipercasale at Casale is also worth mentioning.

Franco Sartori First new route in 2007: Universo Giallo on Monte Brento. With the Universo Giallo on Monte Brento and the Ipercasale route on Monte Casale Franco is the only alpinist to have opened new routes on the valley’s two largest walls. A great alpinist and sport climber, he has opened many new routes. The Pipistrei route on Cima Coste is worth remembering.

Dario Cabas and Pierangelo Masera First new route in 2007: Anormale route on San Paolo’s wall. Dario and Pierangelo have opened many routes, a few are typically explorative along delicate terrain often with loose rock, others have a more modern and sport conception.

Their routes are concentrated on San Paolo’s wall and the Lakshmi Pyramid. Among the most beautiful routes it is worth mentioning the Caldo Inverno route, Sabine and Via 70° on the wall of San Paolo.

Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro First new route in 2008: Mister Magoo at Piccolo Dain. Gianni who is a Mountain Guide, and Franco an Academic member of the Italian Alpine Club with Aldo have set up extraordinary sports routes on the wall of Piccolo Dain. Extreme free climbing with distant protection are the basic ingredients of their routes, which are always strictly opened from the ground up. Masterpieces such as Le Vrai Plaisir and the Tigre il daino e il gladiatore, all on Piccolo Dain, represent the more difficult climbs of this valley.

Ivan Feller and Caludio Masera First new route in 2008: Buon Natale 2008 at Guglia Solidarnosh at Cima alle Coste. Ivan and Claudio who are very strong climbers opened a beautiful series of sports routes on the Sarca walls. Their lines, with generally sport style bolting maintain a trad imprint. The route Il Gigante at Coste dell’Anglone and the Gormiti route at Casale are beautiful.

Luca Pilati First new route in 2009: Esclusivamente per tutti at Piramide Lakshmi. Luca opened many plaisir routes, appreciated and often repeated where the main characteristics are the excellent rock and the bolts placed nearby. He has enhanced entire sectors such as the Parete di Sherwood and the Parete Fabio Giacomelli. Beautiful routes worth remembering are Fantatitoli on Parete Zebrata, the Avancini on Parete Ghandhi and the Pinamonti in Mandrea.

Luca Galbiati Via sulle pance di Pezol (© Sassbaloss)

29

CRAGS, WALLS & MORE

MOUNTAINEERING GUIDEBOOKS Climbing | Mountain | Outdoor Sports

in deutscher Sprache erhältlich

available in English

www.versantesud.it

NEW ROUTES IN THE SARCA VALLEY

by Heinz Grill

What motivated us to open up new routes in the busy Sarca Valley? Our excessive energy or being bored with always repeating the same routes, where we knew every single hold off by heart? Or – as our critics say – we were unemployed and therefore set off with a hammer, peg and a saw to become rock artisans? No! inside we felt an idea developing: an artistic feeling for moulding a route which could find a place, by way of example, right there in the Sarca Valley.

For example, when we came down from Monte Brento in winter we were considered ancient relics, the aliens of the Valley, who apparently did not know what innovation was. What is innovation? We felt the nostalgia of pure adventure grow inside us, we were the ones who could only climb large walls because we no longer had the strength in our fingers for sports climbing and the only way we could climb overhangs was by using étriers. Inside us the desire of a first ascent grew, combined with the simple idea of trad principles, using natural protection.

Where can you find routes which offer a balance between mountaineering experience and competitive ambition? And where can we still find space for first ascents? For sure, not in the well known areas characterised by free slabs, cracks and walls which were taken for granted. Therefore we went to look in wooded areas and combined possible lines with all the agility that could come from our imagination.

The wall of San Paolo almost did not offer any full itinerary which led directly to the top so, with the help of a few traverses and the ability to find imaginative solutions, we managed to join up the single sections of the wall and open reasonable and logical itineraries up to ten pitches long. The great work of cleaning dirt from the cracks and pockets was indispensable.

The aim of these first ascents, tackled more in the undergrowth than on real rock, offering more grass than holds, or slabs with pockets, was to create itineraries which were easy, with a classical style instead of extreme ascents. It is important to unders-

32

tand that it was a question of inventing itineraries along wooded and grassy areas and not speedy first ascents, climbed in one go and straight away and having an immediate value. The first ascent from the ground up to the top was simply “a botanical exploration” undertaken in more or less adventurous conditions. “Will the root hold? The branch or the tuft of grass?” The overhang on the route Helena offered only grass and a few bushes and a nice move of A2 on branches. After having cleaned the dirt from the holds and pockets, better moves appeared, so much so that today it seems difficult to imagine technical and risky acrobatics to climb up that overhang. We often avoid placing bolts and we ran a few risks by using natural protection and terrible pegs. The routes were almost always equipped later for the needs of the climbers repeating the route.

Without the total length and the successive elaboration of these routes, they would never have become interesting. In terms of style it is not typically “alpine” to create a route elaborating it from its natural state, then correcting its line to make it more accessible for climbers. If we had only opened rou-

tes for ourselves, without fixing them and changing them, if we hadn’t acted in this unorthodox way in mountaineering terms, we would have stuck to a first ascent and we would have quickly forgotten our

adventures amongst the grass and undergrowth. Elaborating a route has given the already too busy Sarca Valley some beautiful new routes.

33

20

Cima alle Coste

Cima alle Coste Known also as “Gran diedro di Dro”, this face resembles an immense corner at the point where two formidable faces meet: the South face is high, vertical, crumbly and frightful and home to several of the most extreme routes in the valley, while the East or central face is meeker and more accessible.

The good quality of rock on this face has made possible several new routes in the past few years.

These sport style routes climb the low buttress named “Lo Scudo” or The Shield. Given the number of routes on this face it can be considered to be an independent sector. Towards the east end of the south face a long and sharp arete terminates with a nice detached pillar. This pillar is very visible when approaching the face and is known as “Guglia Solidarnosch”. The side that overlooks the valley contains some very interesting routes. One of the valley’s most historic routes climbs the large corner, climbed in 1966 by Heinz Steinkotter and friends. This route, which has only been repeated in its lower part, is now almost forgotten due to the crumbly and vegetated nature of the rock.

Sarche

36

CIMA ALLE COSTE

35

barrier stanga P

34 32 7

28

6

5

31

54

4

Lago Bagattoli

27

37

masso Antiscudo Antiscudo boulder

18

3 2

shrine capitello

1

petrol distributore pump

17

9 8

16 10

descent discesa to the Anglone al sentiero dell’Anglone path

34

cairn ometto

Arco

Luca Galbiati Via Diedro Martini (© Sassbaloss)

35

20b Cima alle Coste Lo Scudo

12. DINOSAURI ÙÙÙÙÙ L. Pilati, A. Michelotti 2012 Length: 450 m. (14P) Difficulty: 5c, 6a, One move 6b, A0 (5c obl.) /S2/II Great ascent which climbs up the left sector of the Scudo. The route’s first part is tackled up a long buttress of easy and grassy rocks, but characterised by some great pitches on slab.

The second part of the route improves markedly, you climb up following a beautiful sequence of vertical and exposed cracks, with exciting climbing on fantastic rock. The last pitch is amazing.

Excellent bolting, only bring quickdraws.

Approach: from Dro’s sports field, head up towards the Sherwood wall (see Piramide Lakshmi, Coste dell’Anglone), then traverse to the right until you find the start with name.

beautiful flakes lame stupende

5b

5a

DINOSAURI

move 5c loose passo rock friabile

6a overhang crack fessura strapiombante

6b, A0

6a laybacking diedro Dulfercorner flake 6a beautiful lama stupenda

5c nice bellaslab placca 5c 5c

slabs ande easy wall placche muretti

5b

5a large ledge grande cengia

3a

easy walls muretti

beautiful bellissimaslab placca

4a

5b leaning corner diedro appoggiato

easy ramps

rampe facili 3a

nice slab

bella placca

MAS QUE NADA

5b 5a

small roof 5a tettino leaning slabs

placche appoggiate 4a

54

Luca Franceschini Via Dei Dinosauri (©sassbaloss)

55

23d Monte Brento Parete Est

ÙÙÙÙÙ 24. VENTO DELL’EST F. Giacomelli, F. Stedile 1994 Length: 450 m. (12P) Difficulty: VI+, VII+, A1 / R4 / IV Extreme and arduous, climbs the elegant and logical line of cracks and corners cutting a groove in the face right of “Via dell’Anniversario”. The climb includes several difficult sections protected by pegs. The rock is generally solid and there are about 50 pegs fixed along the route. A rack of nuts and friends should also be carried. (Info by F. Giacomelli).

Approach: go beyond the start to “Via dell’Anniversario” and move to below the obvious corners. Start along a solid grey slab.

V+

smalldiedrino corner

IV+

corner crack diedro fessura

VI, A1

large corner grande diedro

VI, A1

roofs tetti

V+ slab placca

VII+ roof tetto

VI+

corner diedro

V+

slabplacca

VII+, A1 sloping yellow diedro svasato giallo corner

VI

VENTO DELL’EST V delicate diedrocrack fesura corner

VI

delicato

III

slab

placca

IV

slabplacca with crack con fessura

VII+ slab placca

VI V+

148

rampa ramp

ÙÙÙÙÙ 25. IT’S RAINING MAN A. Zanetti, A. Tony Zanetti, F. Bertoni 2018 Length: 600 m. (15P) Difficulty: VII, A1 / R3 / IV Magnificent alpine route which runs up an isolated wall which is never busy. It overcomes a long succession of grey slabs included between the route via dell’Anniversario and the via Vento dell’Est. Difficult climbing, where training and endurance is required, due to the length of the route and for the continuous and sustained difficulties. Even if it is sufficiently protected with bolts and pegs, it maintains a trad flavour, due to the quality of the rock and the sometimes distant protection. A complete set of friends and aiders are needed to help overcome the A1 sections.

Approach: just beyond the start of Vento dell’Est.

V+

VI V

PALMA

VII VI detached pillar pilastro staccato

V+ VI

VII, A1

VI+ vertical wall muri verticali

VI+, VII VI

arch schiena di mulo

bivouac ledge cengia da bivacco

VI, A1

IT’S RAINING MAN

V V+

VII, A1

VI+, A1

longe traverse lunga traversata

VI+, A1

A1 VI+

VENTO DELL’EST

149

24b Parete Zebrata Parete Centrale

ÙÙÙÙÙ 31. VIA DELLE MIRALDE A. Andreotti, M. Rossi, G. Cantaloni 1972 Length: 500 m. (14P) Difficulty: IV+, V / R3 / II A traditional route, interesting for its historic value and explorative nature. The rock is mediocre and pegs are absent. Climb the face along the corridor between “Claudia” and “Oceano”. It is a journey of discovery; the route is not obvious and the slabs are vegetated. There are few points of reference and it is not always possible to follow the ideal line, really you can climb where you want. The only section that is obligatory is a friable corner chimney at half height.

Above the wood the rock improves considerably and the climb becomes enjoyable. A mediocre route but may satisfy the climber with a taste for adventure.

Start: Approx..100 metres right of “Claudia and just left of “Oceano”.

Descent: on foot along the return path.

III OCEANO

IV+ LUNGO FLASH

V

vertical muretto wall verticale

IV+

V

solid solideslabs placconate

IV+

woods bosco

V

loose diedrorock colatoio couloir corner friabile

IV+

traverse onsublack slabs traversata placche nere

gully canale

IV+

loose rock

placche friabili IV+ short wall muretto traverse traversata

III

loose rock slabs placche friabili

IV+

IV+ short wall muretto

MIRALDE OCEANO

IV+ shortdiedrino corner IV

IV+ short overhang piccolo strapiombo

184

OCEANO

31

36 32 33 34

35

185

24b Parete Zebrata Parete Centrale

ÙÙÙÙÙ 39. PERLA BIANCA M. Brighente, G. Bogoni, D. Dal Cere 2003 Length: 350 m. (11P) Difficulty: 6a, 6b, Moves of A0 (6a obl.) / S1 / II A good route, one of the best on the face. The first two pitches follow grassy slabs and ramps and are not very interesting. The route then continues with an incredible sequence of stupendous and compact slabs. Fascinating and enjoyable friction climbing on coarse rock. The difficulties are sustained. The bolts are good and favourably spaced.

Approach: a little right of “Autobahn”, name written at the base.

Descent: abseil along the route.

chimney gully camino canale

difficult slab difficile placca

6b 6a

beautiful bellissima slab

placconata

6a short wall muretto

5c QUADRIFOGLIO

crack up slab

fessura in placca

6a 6a traverse traversata 6a+ 6a+

slab with runnels placca a rigole

6a ledge cengia

6b, A0

polished slab

placconata levigata

6a grass erba

6a+

PERLA BIANCA 6a

polished slab placca levigata short tettinoroof

5c

AUTOBAHN

5b

vertical slab

placca verticale

ledge cengia

corner 4c diedro 4c

SPECCHIO

6b, A0

194

QUADRIFOGLIO

Località Marocche, 3 - Pietramurata (TN) Tel. +39 349 289 4600 info@agricampeggiopaolino.com www.agricampeggiopaolino.com

28

Piccolo Dain

Piccolo Dain 23 Piccolo Dain is the final summit in the Paganella group however its rockSentiero is more similar to that of per Ranzo 24 the Casale-M.Brento chain. Two spectacular faces have been formed on the south- east and west flanks; the south-east face is a vertical precipice standing above Sarche while the west side is a wild and suggestive wall dominating the deep Limarò canyon. The difficult and spectacular “Rino Pisetta” 25 34 ferrata runs up the east side of the face.

35 36 37

.P ise

tta

Madonna di Campiglio

24

46

18 17

Fe r

path for Sentiero Ranzo per Ranzo

39 23

16

Sector 28a, 28b

15 25 40

13 12

36 37

43

torre nte S arca

44

1

11

Pis e

tta

45

9 10

8

7

6

19

R.

38

rat a

Madonna di Campiglio

14

PICCOLO DAIN

34 47 35

41 42

Sector 28c, 28d

19

rat aR

38

22

Trento

18 17

Fe r

39

21 20 46

16

ra15massi

barriere pa

P

40

Parcheggio bocciodromo

P

42

13 12

e Sraernt ca

43

Staorrc reanto tr

44

1

45

6

8

7

9 10

11

Sarche 22 20

21

neratsmassi reepa otec rrietiv prba

P Parcheggio

P

alley park for bowling car Parcheggio bocciodromo

Sarche

Arco

372

14

PICCOLO DAIN

47

Parcheggio 41

Trento

Luca Galbiati Via Loss Pilati (©Sassbaloss)

373

NUOVA VIA AL DAIN

by Angelo Ursella – an excerpt from the book “Il ragazzo di Buia” 29 April: I am getting back to writing after almost two months. During all this time many things have happened and the situation has changed quite a bit. During this period I’ve had the chance to visit Val Rosandra, together with Rodolfo Simuello.

A day which was dramatic to say the least! Experiencing a deep crisis, climbing on my own, I risked a fall with every elevation. Nothing is of interest to me. I meet the very strong Enzo Cozzolino. Tied up to his rope, I have the unpleasant surprise of falling while climbing the crux, free.

The week after, it is a continuous effort to find myself again. I contact Tarcisio Pedrotti to climb on Dain.

19 March 7am. I am at Sarche waiting for my friends from Trento. They will head up towards Piccolo Dain’s buttress, while I will head over to Cavedine.

I head up towards Graziella’s village, while my heart beats fast. How will this meeting go?

I am overcome with fear and anguish.

I’m here, I ring the bell.

Very excited, I walk in, she smiles…it is a marvellous moment… Shortly after I leave: “I will see you again tonight bye”.

I am overcome with joy!

I quickly climb to the base of the wall, where Tarcisio and his two friends are waiting for me: Andrea Andreotti and Marcello Rossi. We head across the buttress, covered with dirt and bushes, and after an hour of medium difficulties we find ourselves at the base of the overhang. A crack runs up the yellow wall, a few pegs stick out. Evidently someone else has had the same idea. On the terrace where the route begins we find two bunches of pegs.

We decide to give it a go.

After a dozen metres I reach the last peg: now a bit of hard work awaits me. It is a wide crack and I am forced to use the only wedge we have available, using the service rope. I don’t get up to much: the crack insists in its excessive width. I therefore use some very long pegs, found providentially in

380

the bunch found at the start. Now things are better.

I clamber up the wall which is a bit overhanging and covered in loose rock, until the crack becomes narrower allowing me to place the protection better. After 30 metres, I set up the first anchor point on a grey slab. Andrea starts climbing and quickly reaches me.

Above us the wall opens up, yellow and covered in loose rock with an ugly overhang which hides the rest of the route. It looks tough, but I set off determined. I slowly make my way up, peg after peg. A smooth slab interrupts the crack’s regular development, which starts again 5 metres above.

I work hard using my hammer, on pitiful rock. I try placing a peg on the left, on the right, up high, low down. Nothing! The only result is that large flakes of rock drop on to Andrea’s head. After the umpteenth attempt, I manage to place a peg, but by just two centimetres. Below me there are some good pegs; I can try. With bated breath I climb up using an aider. But it is the same story. Another miraculous peg gratifies me by letting me advance another short section. A third peg, delicate moments.

There, the crux has been climbed.

The conditions of the face at this point are certainly not the best, but at least the crack has been conquered. I inflict a series of uncertain anchor points into the crack, which now runs towards left.

The sun has reached the horizon. From down below, my friends call me over to come back. I down climb to Andrea. I abseil down, my feet hanging in the air and I reach the start. Tomorrow we will get the gear we need, while on Saturday and Sunday we will finish the ascent.

At Sarche some friends are waiting for us. She is also there! I take her back home. I spend unforgettable moments with her.

The next day, nose up, with Marcello and Andrea, we meticulously study the wall. After buying all the necessary gear, I pass by to visit Sam (Samuele Scalet). I end the day beautifully, together with Graziella. Saturday 21st, five am. I am staying at Andrea’s and he comes to wake me up. In a short while we are ready and we stop by to pick up Tarcisio and Marcello.

At half past seven I tie up with Tarcisio and start climbing. Shortly after Andrea and Marcello follow us with the goal of picking up our back packs. In two hours I reach the maximum height reached the other day. I now try to cross over to the right heading over to the middle of the face, but the rock is very compact and forces me to give up. I therefore continue along the crack, which unwinds markedly along the bottom of a superficial corner.

The protection spreads out perfectly. Every now and then as a distraction, a short section of free climbing. After hours of climbing we stop to drink something above a tiny terrace, the first one since the start. An overhanging corner hides the rest of the face. This should be the last hurdle. One peg after another I reach its end, until I catch sight of the opportunity to exit. On almost non existent holds I traverse to the left, I overcome a short wall and reach a comfy ledge. The route is practically over. I place quite a few pegs in the rock and with a rope I create a handrail. Tarcisio and Andrea join me. It is 7 pm, it is almost night time. Immersed in the dim light Marcello reaches me, scared by the idea of having to bivvy on his own on this “horrid wall”. At the last minute though, while he is about to start the traverse, in an attempt to strengthen it, he causes the last peg to come out and performs

a long pendulum, fortunately without consequences. It is night time, we are ready for the bivouac.

From the bottom of the valley someone shouts out words of support. Lights are flashed at us almost till midnight keeping us company.

At six am we start climbing again. A few difficult metres and we reach the easy rocks of the arête which define the rock face. The last anchor point is on a large oak tree.

Walking down the easy path, we meet two alpinists who were walking towards us: they are the two authors of the first attempt. It was their intention to name the route after their friend Valerio Fontana, who died during the summer of ’69 on the route Carlesso on Torre Trieste. We embrace their idea and dedicate the new route on the south face of Dain to Valerio Fontana.

They are waiting for us at Sarche. I am happy to see Graziella. Our feat is thus marvellously concluded. At home we all get together for a few ritual photos. Then I leave my friends to spend a magnificent afternoon with Graziella.

I spent these four days as if in a dream. I would love this happiness to last a thousand years!

381

32

Croz delle Mirandole

Croz delle Mirandole

SOUTH Facing

This sector is characteristic and very interesting, very calm and isolated and not at all busy. This wall is right under the road which leads to the town of Ranzo and the access happens from the top, with abseils which start from the road’s guard-rail, Verdon style! There are not many routes but they are all on excellent rock and well protected. The wall is completely south facing, ideal during winter, from where you can enjoy a marvellous view towards the Sarca Valley. Locally known as Roccione di Ranzo, Alessandro Beber, after the rock face’s exploration and after opening the first routes, names the sector “Croz delle Mirandole”.

ACCESS 0.30 H From Vezzano climb up to Ranzo. Just before reaching the town of Ranzo, the road passes across a rock wall, exposed with a wonderful view over Sarca valley. Park shortly after in an opening to the left (or on the right if you come from Ranzo).

Here, near a bend, find an anchor point with chain, placed on the guard-rail, from where 3 abseils lead to the base of the rock face (3x35m).

DESCENT The routes end on the road, where you can easily reach the car.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

0.05 H

ANTO ................................................................. 120m...... Bolts LUNA.................................................................. 140m...... Bolts SPETA CHE VEGNO........................................... 130m...... trad Bolts FOSFORO E FANTASMA.................................... 130m...... Bolts ROSA DI RAME.................................................. 100m...... Bolts

Vezzano

P RANZO

500

P

1

2

3

CROZ DELLE MIRANDOLE

4

5

501

1

2 3

4

5