Alpine Ice Vol.2

MARIO SERTORI

ALPINE ICE The best icefalls in the Alps

2 Italy - Central and Eastern Alps, Austria and Slovenia

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | ICE

First edition. January 2009 Second edition. November 2018 ISBN 9788885475 540 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. via Longhi, 10 Milan Italy. Phone +39 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved world wide. No part of this book can be translated, electronically copied, reproduced, adapted partially or totally by any means.

Cover

Mario Sertori, Icicle Number 2 , Gola di Bletterbach (© F. Marcelli)

Texts

Mario Sertori

Translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Chiara Benedetto. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Chiara Benedetto

Print

Tipolitografia PAGANI (BS)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I wish to thank everyone who supplied me with material and information: Aljaž Anderle Marco Beltramini, Giuliano Bordoni, Giacomo Casiraghi, Tomo Cesen, Marcello Cominetti, Davide Donini, Hermann Erber, Daniele Fiorelli, Luisa Fusi, Andrea Gamberini, fam Carlo Gasperini, Erich Gatt, fam Urban Golob, Ezio Marlier, Kata Matoga, Daniele Molineris, Tullio Parravicini, Simone Parravicini, Francesco Tremolada, Klaus Kranebitter, Elias Holzknecht, Drejc Karnicar, Gregor Kresal, Dietmar Walser, Christian Piccolruaz, Matevz. Lenarčič, Matej Tonejec, Rok Stubelj, Marco Tiraboschi, fam.Luca Vuerich, Florian Riegler, Roby Parolari, Claudio Migliorini,

Alessandro Bau’, Martina Scuka. Thanks also to Francesca Marcelli for most of the action photos present in the book; to Albert Leichtfried for his story on the first ascent of Illuminati and for many marvellous photos; to Beppe Ballico for his climbing reports and the superb photographic shots; to Marco Milanese for the moving memoir on Luca Vuerich and for a few breath taking photos; Claude Gardien for the pleasant presentation.

I am very grateful to Beat Kammerlander and Peter Podgornik who granted me their time by answering my questions and encouraging me on my literary project.

WARNING Be careful: ice-climbing is a potentially dangerous activity. Climatic conditions can vary rapidly and the state of the ice is subject to changes which can even be very sudden, provoked by external factors. A few itineraries are exposed to avalanche danger. Maximum effort was put in to guarantee the exact nature of the information contained in this guide, but they should nonetheless

be verified each single time by experts who are able to evaluate the ice conditions. Listen to the avalanche forecasts and collect information regarding the area.

The use of this guide book is at your own risk and under no circumstances can the author or editor be held responsible for any accidents which occur on any of the routes described.

Mario Sertori

ALPINE ICE 2 The best icefalls in the Alps

Volume 2 650 itineraries in Italy -Central and Eastern Alps, Austria and Slovenia

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

ALPINE ICE Volume 2 Introduction - October 2018 Photo Credits Presentation Explanatory notes Index and map

6 8 11 12 16

Italy - Central Alps and Eastern Alps Mastro d’ascia - The ice fall we were all waiting for La Spada del Combolo Illuminati Principessa Sospesa Solo per i tuoi occhi – PELMO ESE face Per Leila Super Stridente Luca Vuerich

18 52 70 214 268 278 296 296 302

Austria Beat Kammerlander

304 316

Slovenia Peter Podgornik Slovenia... Ice across the border A brief history of climbing on Slovenia’s ice falls

444 464 474 492

Analytical index of the more difficult icefalls

502

ALPINE ICE Volume 1

B. Ballico, Candela di Supermario, Val Travenanzes (© Arch. B. Ballico)

4

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France Switzerland Italy - Western Alps

5

INTRODUCTION

by Mario Sertori, October 2018

Nine years have passed since it was first published, Alpine Ice, the 600 best icefalls in the Alps, a guide book which speaks four languages and has gained a lot of success within the ice climbing community so much so that it has been reprinted many times, and was starting to give signs of premature aging.

So I found myself preparing this second edition with a large quantity of areas visited, and a strict selection was imposed to reach the finish line. In spite of this, the collection was quite abundant: the routes described have more than doubled compared to the 2009 edition which was already quite substantial. It was therefore necessary to divide the material into two different books: Alpine Ice vol.1France, Switzerland, Western Italy and Alpine Ice Vol.2 Austria, Slovenia and Central/Eastern Italy. The two volumes are obviously interconnected, and even if they describe geographically different areas, they describe a complete picture of the entire alpine arc, presenting the most attractive ice falls of this monumental rocky structure.

In the guide book you will find many new areas, above all in Austria, with its fantastic valleys: there is Gasteinertal with the impressive cirque of Eisarena, Klostertal with Fallbachwand a line which has a total length of over 700 m and the boundless Zillertal and the beautiful Pitztal. Maltatal is very interesting in Carinthia, and then Rauristal, Stubachtal and the legendary Karwendel between Austria and Germany, Very close to Garmisch in the area of Ehrwald the amazing Seebenseefall must not be missed, one of the most aesthetic and special ice falls of Europe, while lazy ice climbers will find what suits them at Kaprun in the very easy to reach Sigmund Thun Klamm, a canyon infested with ice falls very close to the car park. In Slovenia you will find harsh and solitary environments where all kinds of ice falls of

6

all difficulties form: from the impressive Muro di Bavh under the grand rock face of Breto, in front of Mangart, to the ephimerous Boka, so close to the car, but always forms with difficulty. In Val Trenta at the sources of the emerald green river Isonzo you will find the seducing ribbon of Beli Trak opened in 1981 by the Pavel brothers with Peter Podgornik.

The shining pearl of Pericnik, a special ice fall at the feet of the north face of Triglav, in Val Vrata it is a destination that surely should not be missed, just like Lambada, the sleek free standing pillar of Prisojnik, one of the busiest areas in Kranjska Gora, served well with a comfortable mountain hut nearby and routes of great character.

Heading to the centre of the alpine arc, there are many interesting attractions. A quick list? The torpedo shaped Damocle and the castle of Overlocck Hotel in Val Brembana; in Val di Mello Mastro d’Ascia and Chandelle Gabarrou; in Livigno the large icicles of Ci Cozz and Tropical. Under the large curtain of Monte Adamello the Madonnina hides, a majestic colossus which leaves you speechless. The area of the Dolomites is an island offering a vast array of treasures for ice climbers: the canyon of Bletterbach, Vallunga, Val di Gares, Val di Zoldo, Val Travenanzes, Val di Braies, Val di Riva di Tures, just to mention a few, each one with its marvellous icefalls to climb, wedged in among the folds of marvellous mountains.

This is only a trace of almost 650 opportunities found in this book, which contain seducing proposals for adventurous climbers. An ode to the wilder sides of the Alps and an invitation to travel, to find out about new places, costumes and different languages. A value of great importance in such difficult times nowadays, in which borders and walls which have recently been broken down are aggressively reasserting themselves.

GRIVEL IS NOT ONLY A BRAND. IT IS A STORY. A BEAUTIFUL STORY FROM MONT BLANC.

200 AÑOS DE ANIVERSARIO

200 YEARS ANNIVERSARY

ΧΡΌΝΙΑ ΑΠΌ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΕΤΕΙΌ

‫ هزیلکهلاک‬200

200-LECIE

200 주년 기념

200周年記念

200 주년 기념

200ÈME

ANNIVERSAIRE

200 JAHRE JUBILÄUM

200 ÅRS

JUBILEUM

ЮБИЛЕЙ

LET

200

200 JAAR JUBILEUM

1818 2018 200 ЛЕТНИЙ

200 वर्ष सालगिरह

MADE WITH SOLAR ENERGY

WWW.GRIVEL.COM

200 DE ANI DE LA NAȘTERE

200

Introduction

To make it easier for those who have difficulty in finding their way, I have included geographical coordinates of car parks and of almost all the routes.

Increasingly precise information which must not take away the sense of adventure which remains when tackling an ice fall, but should be analysed and stored to reduce the risks linked to our activities to a bear minimum. I have proposed again the inter-

views of Beat Kammerlander and Peter Podgornik, and written by Podgornik himself we have added a short but interesting story of ice climbing in Slovenia. Important contributions describing the opening of some new routes have been made by Albert Leichtfried, Luca Vuerich and Beppe Ballico. Finally Marco Milanese wrote a memoir on Luca Vuerich.

PHOTO CREDITS Unless where specifically stated, all photographs are part of the author’s private collection, except for: A.Anderle 484, 470. K.Gričar 483, 450,451. U.Golob 484. D.Karničar 490. D.Koren 461, 454. Z.Koren 451.

P.Kozjek 477. G.Kresal 448, 452, 469, 477,488, 498, 500.

P.Lajevec 482. M.Mejovsek 450, 451. A.Pečjak 478, 496,

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497. M.Cominetti 221. Peter Podgornik 461. J.Skok 487.

R.Stubelj 482, 463. L.Vuerich 289, 292, 293. M.Milanese 288, 294. C.Gasparini 294, 295. F.Tremolada 238, 239, 240, 282. B.Ballico 201, 203, 207, 211, 212, 238, 242, 253, 255, 262, 264, 267, 272, 273,277, 300. Albert Leichtfried 388, 390. Florian Riegler 200.

10

PRESENTATION

by Claude Gardien An iced waterfall is a magical universe, due to its shapes, its colours, its light. What is really fascinating for ice climbers is the ephemeral character of its formations. To observe the water trickling down a rock face under its summer heat, a single rivulet just like a gushing waterfall, to imagine this flow suddenly immobilized into ice, to then climb it: this becomes a form of alpinism which is definitely exciting.

Ice falls are unpredictable lovers. They are never identical, they evolve without ever pausing; depending on their temperature, hygrometry or gravity. Sometimes they disappear, disappointing their admirers who are forced to go on the move for days or weeks. Climbers have got used to this nomadic life style throughout each ice fall season.

You have to find yourself in the right place at the right time never hesitating to travel to make the most of the favourable season.

François Damilano and Godefroy Perroux, two pioneers of this field have named the network of friends who send them information on all the ice around the world “Ice Connection”. Mario Sertori’s book is part of this culture.

Ice is travel; ice and encounters go hand in hand, the idea of presenting a selection of ice falls in dif-

ferent European countries remains loyal to the reality of this sport.

This book consecrates itself to this discipline which has by now reached full maturity. From an eccentric speciality ice-climbing has become a rite of passage for any alpinist. Ice-climbing has considerably increased our knowledge in terms of alpine ice.

Getting used to overhanging evolutions, not only inside couloir’s grooves; while becoming accustomed to steepness and fragility, increasingly bold and technical movements have forced the couloirs of the seventies to become classic ascents of an alpinism which is set in the past.

Today it is dry tooling which defines mountaineering on high mountains. On the north faces of the Alps and Himalayas you can hear the sound of crampons scraping rock, as well as the screech of ice picks on the holds which make it or break it on great ascents. But even if it is ice or rock it is always associated with pleasure. How can we not iceclimb if we love climbing? Mario’s book helps us discover far away and unknown places. It is a true celebration of ice-climbing.



M. Sertori, Candela di Cancano (© T. Parravicini)

11

EXPLANATORY NOTES GEAR As well as the gear needed to make progress on and protect the ice, it may be useful to bring a few rock pegs as well as a choice of nuts and friends. For safety reasons do not forget to bring an avalanche transceiver together with a shovel and probe. Learn how to use them.

EVALUATING DIFFICULTIES The figure in roman numerals (from I to VI) expresses the overall effort regardless of the route’s technical difficulty and refers to parameters such as continuity and the length of the route, the possibility of retreating, the complexity of the approach, the exposure to objective dangers, the difficulty of the descent. Only one of these parameters is sufficient to determine the evaluation of the overall difficulty.

The figure in Arabic numbers (from 1 to 7), usually preceded by the letters WI (water ice) is a classification used initially in Canada, and in fact it is called the Canadian scale, and it expresses the technical difficulties calculated on the most difficult pitch.

It refers to the length of the vertical sections, to the continuity, to the quality fo the protections and to that of the ice depending on the thickness, the consistency and the shapes (cauliflowers, medusa etc).

The evaluation of the difficulty is always a general indicator, because icefalls always form differently every year and the conditions of the ice are subject to alterations, even quick ones caused by external agents (sun, wind, snow, jumps in temperature).

QR code car park

QR code base of icefall

Albert Leichtfried, Crazy Diamond (© E. Gatt)

12

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SOME CLARIFICATION IS REQUIRED the name of the first ascenders has been left out due to uncertainty or lack of info. I apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions or inaccuracies. scale of difficulty: see next chapter. each single ice-fall’s approach should be integrated with the photographs present. The numbers found in the text are correlated to the numbers on the photographs the length of the ice-fall represents the total length of the ice-fall and not the vertical height gain. the ascent route has often been omitted since it can vary from season to season and to leave space for each individual’s imagination in choosing their own line. the notes (N.B:) comment on the itinerary’s beauty and characteristics as well as giving extra information about the ice falls. the approach time is calculated in terms of a fit climber’s pace (with tracks); they can therefore undergo considerable variation depending on the snow conditions and the lack of tracks. when indicating “right” and “left” this refers to, if not otherwise specified, the direction in which you are walking.

EQUIPMENT IN SITU The topos precisely express whether abseil anchors are equipped: this means that- if there is no specific information - abseils (or the anchors) need to be equipped. In any case you need to take into consideration the fact that there is a strong possibility that the equipment undergoes wear and tear and consequently deteriorates due to avalanches, rock fall etc. It is therefore good practice to bring with you “abandonment slings” to reinforce the existing anchors or to replace any damaged slings. It is recommended to learn the Abalakov technique (ice tunnels) in case you decide to climb ice falls which are not equipped with abseil anchors.

13

Explanatory notes

ICE EVALUATION I

short ice-fall, easy to reach, a descent which presents no problems.

II

an ice-fall which is easy to approach, one or more pitches. There are few objective dangers.

III

multi pitch ice-fall, a long approach walk is possible as well as the risk of objective dangers.

IV

difficult multi pitch ice fall, remote environment; difficult descent, objective dangers.

V

long or complex approach walk in a high mountain environment exposed to objective dangers; airy protections, difficulty in interpreting the ascent line, difficult descent which needs to be equipped.

VI

long itinerary in a high mountain environment with logistical problems, orienteering and choice of itinerary, exposed to objective dangers…and to the possibility of a bivouac.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES 1

50/60° moves, experience in using ice axe and crampons is needed as well as belaying techniques.

2

60\70° moves but with good belaying possibilities.

3

70\80° moves, usually good ice. The vertical sections alternate with more leaning sections where you can set up good anchors.

4

75\85° moves and the possibility of a short vertical section. Usually good anchors and good ice.

5

a good technique is indispensable, due to the ice’s quality and the ascent’s difficulty, with a long section at 85\90°. There is the possibility of cauliflower formations.

6

one or more difficult pitches, difficult and precarious anchors, fragile or delicate ice.

A good technique is indispensable.

7

as for grade 6, same characteristics, but more extreme.

X R M

indicates the risk of the whole structure collapsing! emphasises climbing on thin ice ascent with moves on rock (see below)

EVALUATION OF DRY TOOLING DIFFICULTIES These are ascents where ice sections are connected to rocky sections, always climbed with ice axes and crampons. The difficulty is indicated with the letter M followed by a number: M7 designates the “starting difficulty”, but one has to keep in mind that who opened dry tooling routes considered their ascents as representing the maximum grade of difficulty on ice and therefore they considered their achievements as grade 7. The most difficult grades

14

in dry-tooling are of grade M15/M16. Now that this discipline is becoming more popular there are also M4/M6 grades, generally equipped with fixed protections on the sections of rock. Often this last is predominant and determines the difficulty of the route, also because the portion of ice is generally short compared to the whole ascent.

ITALY - CENTRAL AND EASTERN ALPS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

20 17 GOLA DI BLETTERBACH 28 18 VAL DI FASSA 32 19 CATINACCIO / ROSENGARTEN 40 20 VAL GARDENA - GRÖDEN 54 21 VAL LASTIES 64 22 COLFOSCO 72 23 VAL DI GARES 82 24 VAL PRAMPER 88 25 SOTTOGUDA - SERRAI 104 26 VAL TRAVENANZES 114 27 TOFANA DI MEZZO 118 28 MONTE PELMO 122 29 SAPPADA 128 30 VALLE DI RIOFREDDO 146 31 LAGHI DI FUSINE 150

VAL BREMBANA VAL D’AVIO VAL SAN GIACOMO VAL MASINO VALMALENCO VALFONTANA LIVIGNO VAL DAONE SCALE DI BRENTA VAL DI RABBI PASSO PALADE - GAMPENPASS VAL MARTELLO VAL PASSIRIA REINTAL - VALLE DI RIVA RAUTAL – VAL DI RUDO VALLE DI BRAIES – PRAGSERTAL

156 174 184 190 216 224 230 236 244 250 270 274 280 286 298

GERMANY Lindau

10

Kitzbü 9 1

Innsbruck

Imst 2

LIECHTENSTEIN

6

3 4

7

5

13

SWITZERLAND

14

Vipiteno

15 16

Merano 7 3 Chiavenna 4

5

6

11

12

Bormio

10

12

11

8

Bolzano 19 18 17

20 22 21

26 27 23 25 24

28

9

2

Trento

1

ITALY

8

Como Bergamo

16

Vicenza

Venice

AUSTRIA 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

SLOVENIA

BRANDNERTAL KLOSTERTAL INNTAL - OBERGRICHT RENKFÄLLE KAUNERTAL PITZTAL SELLRAIN - LÜSENS STUBAITAL EHRWALD AREA KARWENDEL ZILLERTAL STUBACHTAL KAPRUN RAURISTAL GASTEINERTAL MALTATAL

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

LOŠKA KORITNICA TRENTA KRNICA PLANICA E TAMAR ZG. SAVSKA DOLINA KAMNIŠKO - SAVINJSKE ALPE ZG. SAVINJSKA DOLINA

446 456 466 476 480 486 494

AUSTRIA

ühel

2

306 318 322 328 334 338 350 352 358 362 372 392 402 414 424 434

Kaprun 13

14 15 Graz

16 Lienz

Villaco

29

30 Tarvisio 31 4 3 1 2 Caporetto Udine

5

6 7

SLOVENIA

Kranj Lubiana

ZAGREB Trieste

17

20

Italy > Alto Adige

VAL GARDENA - GRÖDEN One of the most important valleys of the Dolomites, there are fascinating mountains on its territory which are enriched by the history of alpinism, such as Sassolungo and the Sella group. A large network of ski lifts attracts many passionate skiers every winter season, while during summer many trekkers, alpinists and mountain bikers come and visit the area. There aren’t many ice falls, but the ones that are present will be difficult to forget.

ACCESS BY ROAD From the south: 4 (I) motorway for Venice, exit at Peschiera and follow directions for Affi Trento, at Affi take the A22 motorway for the Brennero as far as the exit for Chiusa, then towards Val Gardena; go along the SS 242 as far as Selva di Valgardena where, at the beginning of the town, turn left following directions for the Vallunga. At the end of the road there is a large paying car park.

From the east: A2 and A1 (Slo) motorways for Lubiana, reach Kranjska Gora and then the Itaian border, then the A23 (I) motorway as far as the intersection with the A27 (I) , then on the SS51 to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Keep going towards the Passo Falzarego, La Villa, Corvara, Colfosco, Passo Gardena and finally down to Selva. Turn right following directions for the Vallunga. Then refer to access from the south.

From the north: A12 and A13 (A) motorways south, A22 (I) Brennero motorway and exit at Chiusa. Cary on along the SS 242 on the Val Gardena as far as Selva. Then see access from theh south.

From the west: from Nauders (A) go over the Passo Resia on the SS 40, then the SS38 along the Val Venosta as far as Merano, then reach Bolzano. See access from the south.

BIBLIOGRAPHY K. Auer, V. Bertagnolli, R. Marth Südtirol - Dolomiten Panico Alpinverlag 2017.

7-8 5-6

Ortisei /St. Ulrich Val G arde na Santa Cristina

Val l

g un

a

3

14 12-13 9

4

Cirspitzen

Selva-Wolkenstein 19

Brunecker Turm

22-23 20

25

15 16 17-18

24

Sassolungo 27 26

Colfosco

Selva di Valgardena

2

21 Torri del Sella

Piz Boé

A. Leichtfried, Senza Piombo (© Klaus Kranebitter)

190

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1

Sassopiatto

11 10

191

20 Italy Val Gardena - Gröden

1 Pilat 2 Tervela Vallunga 3 Droc 3a SuperDroc Variant 4 Yosemite Ice Fall 5 Illuminati 6 El Diamante 7 Senza piombo 8 La sor blanche 9 La Piovra 10 Jumbo Jet 11 Once in a lifetime

12 Flauto magico 13 Zweite geige 14 La Piera Mesules 15 Couloir de Frea 16 Frea 17 L’Ciamin 18 Edle Mischung 19 Dragon Sassolungo West Face 20 Goulotte Raggio di sole + Spallone

Sassolungo North East Face 21 Cold Fusion 22 Couloir Sot Saslonch 23 The Extension 24 Legrima Sassolungo Torre Innerkofler West Face 25 Goulotte Mistica Sassopiatto North East Face 26 Goulotte La sorpresa 27 Cascata del Sassopiatto

1 PILAT

NORTH Aspect

II 5+ Difficulty

40 min Approach

1550 m

Altitude

60 m

Length

abseil

Descent

M. Sertori, Pilat (© F. Marcelli)

192

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Access: from St.Ulrich (Ortisei - Val Gardena), SS242 towards Selva, come out of the tunnel, further on you will find on the right the first sign post for Überwasser (Oltretorrente), ignore it and continue until the second blue sign post with the same writing on it, turn right passing the torrent, then straight to the left along Via Minert for roughly 800m. Follow signs for Emmerich (apartments). Park discretely near Emmerich. On foot along the road which goes uphill and runs along the torrent follow signs for path n.19. Just after a house you will reach a second junction; leave to the right with arrow Pulat and go to the left crossing the bridge (n.19). Always on this forestry road characterised by a few hair pin bends. Level with one of the bends on the left take the turn which turns sharply uphill which further on turns into a path and leads to the base.

N.B: beautiful vertical step which almost always forms. After a first featured and often overhanging section, an attractive cigar follows. You can climb it in one single pitch (watch out for rope drag - place the protection well) or esle setting up anchor after 35m to the left on pegs. In spite of it being close to the tourist centre of Ortisei, it enjoys a fairy tale atmosphere. Just to the left and before reaching the start, you will find a very easy ice fall: Il Figlio I/3+ 60m.

193

20 Italy Val Gardena - Gröden

2 TERVELA

NORTH Aspect

I 3-5 Difficulty

10 min Approach

1350 m

Altitude

50 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil down from equipped trees. There are various lines with different difficulties.

Access: the icefall is visible form the SS242 before entering the tunnel, recach St.Cristina from Ortisei.

It is worth parking at the Monte Pana ski lifts, then follow directions for Monte Pana and at the first hair pin bend climb up to the right of Casa Tervela, passing across it and following a wide path you will reach the little valley with icefall.

N.B: an easy alternative to more difficult ascents when there is not much time available. Watch out on the central ice fall, a lot of water runs through it.

VALLUNGA ACCESS ON FOOT Usually a pedestrian path is tracked up to a flat area below the Jumbo Jet ice fall (Plan da Rì 1800m). To reach a few ice falls you will need snow shoes or skis.

3 DROC

SOUTH EAST Aspect

III 5 5+ Difficulty

1h

Approach

1900 m

Altitude

300 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil partially equipped.

Access: from the car park, follow the foot path which runs parallel to the cross country slope, after Valacia beside a cement water outlet, follow a narrow couloir with icy steps to the left which leads to Droc.

N.B: after a long couloir consisting of steps you reach the base of the first beautiful detached icicle. P1 50m WI5+. P2 WI3 60m P3 transfer pitch 50m. P4 WI4 50m. P5 WI4+ 45m. P6 transfer pitch 50m. P7 WI4+ 55m. If you find it in good conditions it is an unforgettable climb.

3

3a

Leichtfried in action, Zweite-Geige (© Elias Holzknecht)

194

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3a SuperDroc Variant L. Godenzi, F. Martinaglia, 2013 90m - As for “I Droc”. Climb the free-standing pillar and the successive and easy 2P. From anchor 2 with pegs, move over to the right, climbing an overhang with bad rock and the successive ice step, followed by a steep slope. You will find yourself below a short cigar (P1 25m). From the anchor on ice the second difficult pitch sets off, free-standing of 25m and then another 25m of vertical wall.

Descend on Abalakov.

195

20 Italy Val Gardena - Gröden

4 YOSEMITE ICE FALL (Missione impossibile) G. Groaz, R. Luzi

SOUTH EAST Aspect

III 6

Difficulty

1h

Approach

1900 m

Altitude

450 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: with 4 equipped abseils on the hydrographic left hand side (bolts and chain) Access: from the car park follow the foot path which runs parallel to the cross country ski slope, after an uphill section beside the opening of a large couloir you will see to the left, in the upper section, the ice fall on the rock face (up to here: 20/30minutes). Follow the steep couloir to the start.

N.B: marvellous. Beware, very sunny. P1 WI4+ 50m. P2 WI6 40m. P3 WI3+ 25m. P4 transfer pitch 250m. P5 WI4+ 50m. P6 easy to exit on top 40m.

5 ILLUMINATI A. Leichtfried, D. Tavener, 2006

SOUTH EAST Aspect

IV 6+ M11+ Difficulty

2h

Approach

2200 m

Altitude

165 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Gear: 12 quick draws, normal ice climbing gear. You will find bolts along the route.

First ascenders’ topo: P1 M11- 30m, 12m of overhang. Endurance, crux move towards the end of the pitch P2 M11+ 25m, 10m of overhang. Severe, difficult mixed P3 M8- 30m, 3m overhang. Overcome the ice curtain P4 WI4 30m, vertical in sections. Perfect ice, easy progression.

P5 WI6+ 50m, vertical. Pillar with low quality ice.

Descent: with 3 equipped abseils on the right side (see photo).

Access: as for the previous. The ice fall is visible from the path in the valley’s upper section, after Yosemite Ice Fall. Climb up the hump which covers the ice fall’s first section.

N.B: The route is very difficult and it is not possible to retreat from it. The upper section of ice must be climbed on very cold days. Beware of your ropes as you climb the ice curtain section.

196

5

6

8

5

7

6

6 EL DIAMANTE K. Astner, 2009

SOUTH EAST Aspect

170 m

Length

2200 m Altitude

2h

Approach

IV 6 M11

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Access: as for the previous. It starts further to the right of Illuminati.

N.B: P1 30mM11, P2 25m M10, P3 60m M8 and WI5+, P4 45m WI6, P5 35m WI 4+.

197

Illuminati

Albert Leichtfried

“Will you come to Vallunga with me? There is a hidden ice paradse which is waiting for us”. With these words Paul Mair tried to convince me as much as possible. “Erich Gatt says that he has heard of an immense ice fall and would like to take photos of us in action”. I was completely exhausted from my latest competition and didn’t feel up to it, but to find out about a new area was quite motivating. I could not miss out on this opportunity.

A perfect ice formation.

The next day I didn’t even climb one metre of ice, not even a photo was taken – I only had heavy legs and was short of breath due to the long and tiring approach walk. The ice fall in question had not even reached the ground. But luckily the day was not wasted since I saw a line that I could have only ever dreamt of. I was captured by this enormous and perfect glacial structure, situated in a beautiful environment in the heart of the Dolomites, lit up by a magical sunlight which made it shine like a diamond. A few days later I was back in that place, this time with a drill in hand and with Dougal Tavener, a very motivated Welsh man who was living in Innsbruck that winter to climb ice falls. Under the rock face I realised for the first time how incredibly large the ice fall was: roughly 60m to the ice curtains, all of it with 20m of overhang – an immense roof. I started to place bolts from the ground up, and after the first day I had placed 22 bolts, which reached the same level of the hanging fang - there were only 15m to go until I could touch the ice. I climbed these metres quite quickly and without any problems. The route was now ready for its first free ascent.

A. Leichtfried, Illuminati (© H. Erber)

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Climbing to your limit.

A week later, on the 24th January, I felt rested enough to give that line a go. Once again I was with Dougal, who I would like to thank publicly for his endless belaying, as well as Hannes Mair, who wanted to film the ascent. The first pitch went surprisingly well: I climbed everything straight away without falling, even if to tell the truth I was very close a couple of times. I had a good feeling after this pitch because I thought that the successive pitch would be a lot easier. But that day proved me wrong. On the second pitch I fell 4 times and I was close to abseiling back down because I had no strength left. But I decided to give it another go, and I climbed well along the rock on the ice. By now I was so tired, I had to really fight to reach the anchor point.

But there were still three pitches to climb. After a short rest I climbed over the ice curtain. I felt good again and the climbing was pure pleasure. I thought that the rest was easy – I simply had to climb the pillar on rotten ice, it was impossible to protect: a nightmare! In the middle of the pillar I almost lost my mind: I no longer wanted to climb, terrified of falling and tearing down all the dodgy pegs with me. But fear makes your eye sight a lot clearer. I caught sight of a sort of chimney a few metres above and I had the intuition that in there the sun hadn’t melted all the ice. In face when I placed my picks I let out a sigh of relief for me and my partner. I put two bomb proof pegs and reached the end top of the monster. When Dougal reached the anchor point we were both freezing and exhausted but jubilant and in this state of grace we started to descent into darkness.

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Italy > Veneto

VAL TRAVENANZES Long and solitary valley which advances up to the Tofane and the Torri del Gruppo di Fanes, famous summits in the area of Cortina d’Ampezzo full of mountaineering history. The approach is long, but rewarded by the magnificent natural environment and the concentration of icefalls. For ice climbers this is surely one of the best areas in the Eastern Alps.

ACCESS BY ROAD From the south and west: A4 (I) motorway for Venice, exit Venice / Mestre and follow directions for Belluno (A27 motorway), until you reach Cortina d’Ampezzo, then continue in the direction of Dobbiaco on the SS51: after passing Fiames, a few kilometres ahead at the first bend, you can park in the space on the left.

From the north: A12 and A13 (A) motorways south, then the A22 (I) Brennero motorway and exit at Bressanone, take the SS49 for Val Pusteria as far as Dobbiaco, from where you follow directions to Cortina. A few kilometres after Ospitale, at a pronounced bend to the left (the last one before Fiames), park in the space on the right.

From the east: A2 and A1 (Slo) motorways to Lubiana, reach Kranjska Gora and the Italian border, then take the A23 (I) motorway as far as the intersection with the A27. Then see access from the south and west.

BIBLIOGRAPHY F. Cappellari Ghiaccio Verticale Le più belle cascate delle Alpi Orientali Vol. 2 Idea Montagna Edizioni 2006.

Muro principale Sector 1 L’ira di Albe 2 Belvedere 3 Due senza 4 Transtravenanzes 5 Attraverso Travenanzes 6 Pilone centrale 7 Candela di Supermario 8 Chantalmania 9 Sogno di Luca 10 Il soffio di Horus

Candela sospesa Sector 15 Cascata di Irene 16 Cascata di Primavera 17 Candela Sospesa 18 Principessa Sospesa Sector hydrographic left 19 Principe di Stravogin 20 Nicotina 21 Pinocchio 22 Candela di Pinocchio 23 Moby dick 24 Tonno nostromo Cave near car park 25 Dolasilla

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25 M. Taè

Croda del V.ne Bianco 24 Cima di Furcia Rossa

19 15-18

Col Rosà

Dobbiaco Toblach

1-10 11-14

M. Castello

Cortina Cima Formentori

M. Cavallo

Tofana di Dentro Ra Zestes

Rif. Giussani Tofana di Rozes B. Ballico, Candela di Pinocchio (© Arch. Ballico)

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Sogno canadese Sector 11 Topazio 12 Diamante 13 Diretta canadese 14 Sogno canadese

Col Becchei di Sopra

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Hydrographic left

Muro principale

Sogno canadese Candela sospesa

MURO PRINCIPALE SECTOR ACCESS From the car park, climb over a fence and walk down a dozen metres on the edge of the cross country ski slope parallel to the road. You then reach a sign post which points out the path to the right. Go down the path losing roughly one hundred metres of vertical height till you meet a cross country ski slope which runs parallel to the torrent. Follow the trail to the right (West) and leave it just beyond the bridge which is used to cross the river and climb up to Val di Fanes (sign posts).

Cross the bridge which goes over the impressive torrent and beyond, at a junction turn left following sign posts for Val Travenanzes. Finally to the right (sign posts) crossing the last stream, walk around a slope till you come out of the woods and you see the icefalls on the valley’s left hand side. Often there are tracks but it is recommended to use skis or snow shoes. Beware of the areas with hanging stalactites.

1 L’IRA DI ALBE M. Vielmo, G. Casarotto, 1996

NORTH Aspect

III 5

Difficulty

2h

Approach

1600 m

Altitude

50 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: it is the ice fall to the left of an icy dihedral-chimney, the following route runs up it.

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1

2

2

7

12 4

5 6

13

14

11 8

9

10

2 BELVEDERE M. Vielmo, G. Casarotto, 1996

NORTH

Aspect

III 4+

Difficulty

2h

Approach

1600 m

Altitude

300 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: equipped abseil on bushes to the left of the ice fall and 1 bolted anchor as you come out of the chimney.

Access: it runs up a characteristic dihedral/chimney along the first 2 pitches, once out of it you can cross it along ledges to the Candela di Supermario (see successive itinerary), or else continue along the same ice fall with a nice vertical pitch in the upper part.

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3 DUE SENZA M. Vielmo, L. Gasparini, A. Mangano, 1997

NORTH Aspect

III 5

Difficulty

2h

Approach

1600 m

Altitude

50 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: equipped abseil.

Access: just to the right of the Belvedere chimney.

4 TRANSTRAVENANZES M. Farina, E. Marlier, 2005

NORTH Aspect

III 5+ M5 Difficulty

2h

Approach

1600 m

5

Altitude

150 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil down the nearby Pilone Centrale (bolts).

Access: as for the previous. Transtravenanzes climbs up the nice wall to the left of Pilone Centrale overcoming, above the ledge, an imposing stalactite.

N.B: P1 short wall.15m P2 coloumn of 55m detached at the start.

P3 short step 20m. P4 crux pitch, mixed and detached icicle.

40m, P5 easy ramp.

4

5

6

5 ATTRAVERSO TRAVENANZES B. Ballico, A. Gamberini, 2013

NORTH Aspect

150 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2h

Approach

III 5+

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil down the nearby Pilone Centrale (bolts).

Access: as for the previous. It starts to the right of Transtravenanzes, it intersects it in the second part to come out independently in the vertical dihedral to the left.

N.B: P1 vertical wall which leads to a cave. 55m. P2 vertical column up to the ledge, then to the left going around the pillar of Transtravenanzes (when it is formed) to the base of the successive pitch. 35m. P3 Short and aesthetic pitch to reach the final icicle. 15m (1 peg with sling). P4 short icicle formed by two “curtains” then a snowy slope of 50m.

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7

1 2

3 4

5

6 8

9 10

6 PILONE CENTRALE A. Mangano, F. Cappellari, 1997

NORTH Aspect

270 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2h

Approach

III 5+

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Descent: equipped abseil on Belvedere: Access: to the right of the previous, it overcomes the overhangs directly, under the Candela di Supermario.

N.B: great coloumn climbed in P2, the link up with Supermario is recommended.

7 CANDELA DI SUPERMARIO M. Vielmo, G. Casarotto, L. Gasparini, 1996

NORTH Aspect

40 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2h

Approach

III 5+

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil down bushes, then to the left towards Belvedere’s A2.

Access: climb up the previous route up to A2, then cross over to the evident icicle along ledges.

N.B: splendid free-standing situated above the first part of the overhanging wall.

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8 CHANTALMANIA F. Cappellari, L. Mioni, 1997

NORTH Aspect

70 m

Length

1600 m

III 5

Altitude

Difficulty

2h

abseil

Approach

Descent

Descent: abseil down.

Access: it is the ice fall to the right of the previous.

9 SOGNO DI LUCA L. Lana, S. Rossi, 1996

NORTH Aspect

70 m

Length

1600 m

III 5

Altitude

Difficulty

2h

abseil

Approach

Descent

Descent: equipped abseil.

Access: straight to the right of Chantalmania.

10 IL SOFFIO DI HORUS D. Mabboni, M. Vielmo, L. Gasparini, 2000

NORTH Aspect

170 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2h

Approach

III 5+ M8

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

M. Sertori, Sogno di Luca (© F. Marcelli)

256

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Descent: abseil down the nearby Pilone Centrale (bolts).

Access: as for the previous. It starts to the right of Sogno di Luca.

N.B: P1 short walls to the right 40m WI4+.

P2 delicate vertical section with a section of mixed half way up. 50m WI5+/M6.

P3 Crux pitch protected with 4 bolts then start on a giant hanging fang to exit where it flattens out. 45m WI5+/ M8.

P4 Easy slab 40m WI3.

Great and difficult route, check out the condition of the stalactites!

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SOGNO CANADESE SECTOR 11 TOPAZIO F. Cappellari, L. Gasparini, 1999

NORTH Aspect

190 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2,10 h

Approach

III 4

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Access: as for the previous, then proceed until the second icy section (Sogno Canadese Sector).

Topazio starts on the left of the evident ice fall, near a chimney and to reach it you need to traverse on a ledge.

N.B: pleasant and varied.

12 DIAMANTE F. Cappellari, L. Lana, 1996

NORTH Aspect

170 m

Length

1600 m Altitude

2,10 h

Approach

III 5

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

Access: as for Sogno Canadese. The ice fall follows a sort of gully to the left of the large wall and comes out onto the buttress always to the left.

N.B: beautiful and varied. Be careful in the area where the routes start, there are the hanging stalactites of Sogno canadese.

Pilone Centrale (© Arch. B. Ballico)

258

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13 DIRETTA CANADESE B. Ballico, A. Gamberini, S. Scotton, 2018

NORTH Aspect

III 5+ A0 Difficulty

2,10 h Approach

1700 m

Altitude

160 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil down the ice fall, the first anchor is bolted and has a chain, the others on Abalakov.

Access: as for the previous, then continue another section until the second icy wall (Sector Sogno Canadese).

N.B: this is a direct line to Sogno Canadese, it tackles a superb 12 13 14 free standing pillar on the second pitch and reaches the hanging curtains. These were climbed directly overcoming a wall of overhanging rock, to then pop put onto vertical ice. Be careful in the area where the routes start, there are hanging stalactites up high to the left.

P1 a short wall leads to the base of the icicle. 30m, 80° 85° A1 on ice.

P2 detached free-standing pillar extremely detached from the wall, then continue towards the hanging curtains. 50m 90° 95°A2 on ice.

P3 a short vertical wall leads to below an overhanging rocky band (3 bolts, two of which are with slings) which you climb up and be careful of any loose rock. Excit delicately on the ice curtains to then climb up the last vertical wall until another rocky band. 30m, M?/A0, 90°.

P4 cross to the right shortly and continue on ice, not easy, until the end of the ice fall. 45m, 85° 90°,S3 on rock.

14 SOGNO CANADESE

NORTH Aspect

III 4 5 Difficulty

2,10 h Approach

1650 m

Altitude

200 m

Length

abseil

Descent

Descent: abseil (a few equipped anchors).

Access: go by the previous icefalls aiming for the large icy wall above.

N.B: great vertical wall which offers various itineraries, of differing levels but all beautiful.

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26 Italy Val Travenanzes

17

17

15

16 18

CANDELA SOSPESA SECTOR

15 CASCATA DI IRENE F. Cappellari, L. Lana, 1996

NORTH Aspect

130 m

Length

1800 m Altitude

2,20 h

Approach

III 5

Difficulty

abseil

Descent

B. Ballico, Candela di Supermario (© Arch. Ballico)

260

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Access: as for Sogno Canadese. Keep going along the valley for roughly 300m until the third sector known as Candela Sospesa characterized by an imposing icicle which usually never touches the base, the ice fall is the first one on the left.

N.B: beautiful and varied. P1 30m 90° A1 on ice, P2 30m with difficult icicle at start with bolted anchor point on ledge.

P3 Traverse to the left of ledge (30m) and climb up the last ice fall 40m Bolted anchor point.

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