SUPRAMONTE of BAUNÈI and SELVAGGIO BLU by Versante Sud srl

LUIGI TASSI with Claudio Calzoni and Mario Muggianu

SUPRAMONTE of BAUNÃ&#x2C6;I and SELVAGGIO BLU

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | TREKKING

First edition July 2020 ISBN 978 88 85475 625 Copyright © 2020 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover

Punta Caròddi and Cala Goloritzè from belvedere of Punta Salìnas (© Luigi Tassi)

Text

Luigi Tassi

Photos

Luigi Tassi

Drawings and topos Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Silvia Ruju

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

Note

Trekking is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

LUIGI TASSI

SUPRAMONTE of BAUNÃ&#x2C6;I and SELVAGGIO BLU with the precious collaboration of Claudio Calzoni e Mario Muggianu

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

INDEX Supramonte of Baunèi and Selvaggio Blu . . 6 Supramonte of Baunei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 How to read the itineraries and legend . . . 14 Classification of itineraries based on their difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

1. DE BARRÀCU IN BARRÀCU . . . . . . . . . . . 20 1.1. First stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2. Second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3. Third stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4. Fourth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5. Fifth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6. Sixth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24 30 36 42 48 54

2. SU ACCÀRGIU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 2.1. First stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2. Second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3. Third stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4. Fourth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5. Fifth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.6. Sixth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66 72 78 84 92 98

3. SELVAGGIO BLU SU CONNÒTU . . . . . . . . 104 3.2. Second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.3. Third stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4. Fourth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5. Fifth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.6. Sixth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

108 114 120 126 132

4. ARÈSTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 4.1. First stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4. Fourth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5. Fifth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6. Sixth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

144 150 158 168

5. FÌLU PÈNDERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 5.1. First stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2. Second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3. Third stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.4. Fourth stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

178 186 194 202

Claudio Calzoni while he climbs up the Arèste Via Ferrata 

SUPRAMONTE OF BAUNÈI AND SELVAGGIO BLU At almost 500 metres a.s.l. the town of Baunèi overlooks the valley below and it is the natural entrance to Supramònte which can easily be reached by car. Follow the panoramic road which hair pin bend after hair pin bend leads you to the plateau of Gòlgo. What struck me the most, the first time I jumped into the four-wheel drive with Claudio Calzoni of Explorando Supramònte, is the silence; I am used to silence in the mountains but here it is different. Nature is the undisputed master of the environment and in spite of all the tourists and the many trekkers and climbers who cross the plain to reach their destination this does not at all disturb the wild balance that regulates the passing of time here which goes by slowly and unconcerned with the presence of man. On a streak of dark basalt which strongly contrasts with the white limestone rock which crowns the plateau, it opens up on Su Stèrru, the karst chasm which is probably among the deepest ponors in Europe. From this point a labyrinth of paths, tracks and ancient roads opens up like the rays of the sun and leads to the remotest areas of Supamònte and towards the sea; going through impenetrable century old holm oak woods and trees of Mediterranean bush until you reach the imposing crags with a sheer drop over the sea. The territory between Santa Maria Navarrése and Cala Sisìne is among the most striking in the Mediterranean; the little island of Ogliastra is only the first of one of the many gems that nature has brought to this corner of the world. Pinnacles, crags, bays and caves come in succession making this experience unique for anyone standing here and discovering for the first time the roughly 40 km of coast which separate the tourist port from the beach, arrival point of the classic Selvaggio Blu itinerary and three of the itineraries which will be described in this guide book.

We are in the paradise of trekking and climbing; the paths and rock faces of Supramònte are the destination of anyone who loves nature and wishes to immerse themselves in uncontaminated nature. The classic Selvaggio Blu was established for the first time by Mario Verin and Peppino Cicalò in 1987 joining ancient pastoral paths and the mule tracks of coalmen dating back to the 1800s, indelible tracks of man’s hard work across the territory. Using these walks and overcoming difficult sections of rocks with sections up to IV° grade the two mountaineers reached Cala Sisìne setting off from Pèdra Lònga, points where the difficult trek begins and ends. L’Agugliàstra (Pedra Longa) is a natural monument which rises up over the sea for 128 metres a.s.l. and it is an aspired objective for climbers who come from all over the world; it can be easily reached and marks the last contact with “civilization” for those venturing along the paths of Supramònte. Punta Giràdili, Capo Monte Sàntu with Portu Pèdrosu and Portu Cuàu, Punta Salìnas with its extraordinary view point over Cala Goloritzè are some of the natural marvels that can be admired along the coast however the magical wilderness of the territory reveals its true splendour when the obligatory lines of the trek lead to the interior. The canyons, the bacus, the promontories which come in succession allow one to live experiences which will be difficult to replicate in other areas of Italy or the Mediterranean. After Bàus (which you walk past after coming down from Pèdra Lònga towards Punta Giràdili) there are no water sources, no mountain huts open on a regular basis, there are only some sheep pens which can be used as shelters but only planning with the shepherd beforehand, in

a few words “Adventure” with a capital “A” to be experienced personally. The harshness of the territory, the lack of sign posts and the difficulties which are often encountered when reading the tracks of the paths make this trek unforgettable. Alongside the classic Selvaggio Blu itinerary there are another five itineraries which will be

described in these pages; the difficulty is different and requires a completely different type of effort. Each one transmits emotions and feelings which deserve to be tackled at least once; be it a long walk which lasts more days or a difficult itinerary with mountaineering sections it does not matter… Supramònte di Baunei will pay you back for every ounce of hard work to reach your objective.

At work on the rock face 

SUPRAMONTE OF BAUNĂ&#x2C6;I Sardinia is a beautiful and wild island, as it appears to who visits it and as it truly is, from the Grand Tour onwards, able to free itself, in its most remote corners, sparkling like emeralds, nowadays from the assumption of a new perception, of polished narratives, yielding still, in the eyes of the less informed visitor, to the temptation of being called picturesque. A Sardinia suffering from an imminent and inexorable de-population, an island which feels its destiny, dramatically pronounced by the demographers, of its minor Sardinias, condensed in its

tiny villages which are becoming extinct but pulsating with joyful beauty, comparable to many others in the world, but so different and unrepeatable. This island is also unrepeatable, in the uniqueness of its geography and in its history in general, material and immaterial, so conservative yet exposed at the same time, to attacks every hundred years from the sea, even on this ford of the world called Baunei, behind the insani montes of the Romans, who came a long time before the Spanish, Piedmontese, Tuscans and the latest, the last, who carried away whole forests to make coal and railway sleepers.

We, never forgetting who we are, sustained by the assumption of this new awareness, which is being conscious of that history, maternal and unkind, want to recount the most intimate parts, nearest to our very human geography, about the goat herds and coal workers, farmers becoming shepherds and shepherds who became farmers, today, expert leaders along stone paths, the ones which Luigi Tassi represents here with great mastery. Supramonte di Baunei is one of the supramontes which makes up the middle world between Gennergentu and the Tyrrhenian sea. It is a fragment of moon profiled against the quasi continent, white limestone and blue of the sea and sky, grey and rusty over the smooth sides of its crags, interrupted and dominated by thick green holm

oak woods, so rich that even the tuna fish in Roman times fed on their acorns in contrast to the goats today which go down to the sea to drink. From Baus to Goloritzè Supramonte reveals its submerged underwater world in its wonderful sea caves, from Fico to Utopia to su Marinaiu, the latter with early Neolithic traces. Because it goes without saying that this sea of stone is the prelude to our history, local and Mediterranean, a testimony is in its most significant emergences, from the Nuraghe to Orgoduri and Co‘e Serra, Alvu and Pedru Saccu, from the ancient churches of San Pietro and Santa Maria, from that map of extraordinary beauty Grutt’e Janas. Because in the end, all roads lead to Baunei the bia maore of the Romans, who arrived by sea from the caput mundi, the ab Ulbia Caralis who chose,

Cala Goloritzè seen from the sea and Punta Salìnas on the left, one of the most famous view points of the Mediterranean 

after the year one thousand, how many, from the Moors or from diseases, escaped by sea. And then the Baunei, the Villa Bauni de montibus of the Pisans and Aragonese, in the heart of the European Middle Ages, its story begins, or at least a consistent documentation is seen, until 1688 the villa becomes the most populated centre of Ogliastra. While Angius and Valery arrived in the 1900s, and testified to the generosity of the Baunei people, who are now finally full of innovations, especially in the second half of the 20th century when the Baunei people discovered in Santa Maria Navarese the beauty of that mare nostrum which up until then had been so hostile. On this sea, on these mountains, our history unfolds, today it is open to new experiences, under new scenarios, from the political, cultural and socio-economic point of view. Especially in recent years. Nowadays a pervasive long term plan is being realised, to activate all tools useful

for enhancing the great beauty of our territory, nearly all falling back on the Site of community interest. The Revitalization Plan for lands of public use, the Urban Revitalization Plan and the Coastal Use Plan, today in force, marking the coordinates of this plan. The leading characters are the people of Baunei, ready for a new approach which is only just beginning, apparent from the intensification of the offer for tourism, with a demand which is strongly growing, shown by the exponential increase in the number of beds available and the activities which operate in the hospitality sector, with all that it will generate at an economic level and with cultural enhancement. But who comes to Baunei and why? I think there are many reasons and they are the same as those which have always attracted the informed visitor, such as the one on the Grand Tour, to

search this Tyrrhenian land for what cannot be found elsewhere, to find in the crystalline waters of Ispuligedenìe and Birìala the cleanest water in Italy, to walk on “sa pedra nascendo” ( we believe that the stones here are alive) to feel the warm stone of the houses in the sunshine, to discover those nuraghe which are worth a Colosseum, to take part in a great anthropology recounted in the homes of the shepherds with frescoes of smoke and sky. Our timeless humanity is written in the stones, in the juniper, in the obstinacy of its ribbing which is all the fascination of one thousand and one stories of this “fossilised life – as described by Moravia – preserved in the depths of the centuries” Here in this photographic account by Luigi Tassi, the Territory of Baunei reveals itself in its most suggestive wilderness, traced, by an expert hand, in the simplicity of its constitutive elements, geomorphological and biological,

historic and experiential, to be lived in the same spirit as those who go in search of the origins of the world. The intention of whoever is fully aware of preserving his ancestry in this part of the world, has slowly begun his own sensibility as an explorer, like Forreddu and Pintori who were the first to go down into the void of su Sterru, Verin and Cicalò who chose en plein air of Selvaggio blu, coining the editorial name of an unpublished experience, unique in the Mediterranean scenario, to welcome according to interpretation which would bring to conceive what Selvaggio blu is nowadays. Selvaggio blu cannot be conceived without considering the disposition of the spirit required to welcome its intensity, whether it be the explorer, today excursion guide (tomorrow – hopefully – a guide qualified to climb and abseil), an active tourist, or an informed visitor who allow themselves to be led there to explore. Then, having Monte Oro, Pedra Lònga, Punta As Gènnas 

lived this experience, their disposition becomes complete and satisfied with a wish to return. We, in Ogliastra, in Sardinia, are building a new way around this, bringing up to date a renewed Grand Tour with a strong new perception and awareness of the necessity for us to open up to the re-composition of a world in continuous evolution, starting with the younger generation who are inheriting a great heritage of competence and knowledge, and whom we are asking to take on this huge responsibility. And this is what is happening at Baunei in so far as the young people choose a course of education which brings them here to appreciate how much this generous land can offer them. And this will happen if

also the community and institutions, which we today are honoured to represent, know how to support, with the necessary foresight, that route. This Guide marks an important step in the sense of the transmission of this awareness and gives us the great opportunity of sharing the necessity of recounting to the whole world how much, of this little world, so beautiful, so rich, and still unknown but which, very slowly is ready to reveal itself. Salvatore Corrias

Cala Mudalòru from above while abseiling down  A Barràccu of the Onamàrra sheep pen 

HOW TO READ THE ITINERARIES AND LEGEND

All itineraries have been walked along and checked on the date of publishing this guide book, the information and data reported can be subject to change due to external factors which cannot be predictable and which could take place with time and the succession of each season. Intense meteorological conditions, phenomena of rock instability or the intervention of man can radically change the conditions and characteristics of the itinerary. By registering your copy of the Guide on the authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website: www.luigitassi.com you will receive updates and information on the state/ accessibility of the itineraries. The table of contents has been structured describing the five treks going from the least difficult one to the more difficult one technically speaking; in the first two there is no need to ever climb up or down climb, therefore there is no need for a Mountain Guide to accompany you, however the harshness of the terrain and the non-anthropized land are important prerequisites to keep into account when organizing a difficult trek. In any case the logistical organization for getting supplies of food and water is fundamental and it is important to plan this phase carefully and precisely asking a local Guide. There are no sources of drinking water in all of the Supramonte di Baunei territory, it is possible to stock up in a few equipped points along the coast and on the plateau which do not operate every season. Each itinerary, with eventual variants, is described in a progressive numbered fact sheet and the information relative to each itinerary is organized in the following way:

Horizontal opening band: progressive number, title of itinerary. Vertical left hand band: title of the itinerary, progressive number. Left hand vertical column left: contains fundamental technical information to quickly understand the itinerary. Right hand vertical column: it contains a few technical notes, the detailed description of the itinerary and the elevation profile. Page in front: layout with all localities and waypoints crossed. With the date and the information organized this way, you will better understand the characteristics of the itinerary and verify if it is suited to your needs, to your experience, to the physical effort required and the time needed to complete it. I encourage you to always check that what you are about to tackle is in line with your physical preparation and technique to avoid finding yourself in difficult situations or environment. NAME OF ITINERARY The names chosen for the itinerary respect the Sardinian tradition and the rugged and wild territory they run across. LEFT HAND VERTICAL COLUMN Difficulty Indicates the grade of difficulty according to the table on page 18. Physical effort This value is subjective, I have tried to make it as homogenous as possible taking into account distance, vertical height gain and technical difficulty of each itinerary. It is expressed over five values

which range from easy, one star, to especially difficult where five stars indicate the need to be very well trained to cover the itinerary within the indicated times. Beauty

Supramonte di Baunei is the section of coast which runs between Santa Maria Navarrese and Cala Luna, they both have a particular charm; the harshness of the territory and the almost total absence of man, especially inland, making this area difficult to evaluate, and to give a parameter of “beauty” has been very difficult. Therefore the variety of environments you cross when hiking and the views which step after step open up in front of us, is what is considered when evaluating the beauty.

Sign posts Sign posts… this dark horse…except for some very few historical blue marks left by Mario Verin and Peppino Cicalò there is only some rare stone cairn, the paths are never marked nor indicated. Altitude at start It is the altitude expressed in metres above sea level from where the itinerary begins Altitude at arrival Indicates the altitude reached at the end of the stage of each itinerary. Positive vertical height gain To establish the positive vertical height gain even the uphill sections of each itinerary have been taken into consideration;

Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide, with him I covered “Arèste” for the first time 

it is a rounded off figure but it allows to establish from straight away the necessary physical effort to conclude the itinerary. Distance Here you will find the total kilometres of the itinerary from the start to the end. Hiking time This is an average time which is obtained by taking into account the length and the vertical height gain of the itinerary continuing with a regular step, never fast; if the difficulty of the route increases an improved physical form is taken into consideration. Escape routes This information can be very useful on very long or difficult itineraries, to know where to interrupt the trek, safely, to reach a road or a safe place. Best time to go The diagram which has been chosen, quickly evaluates the best period of the year to tackle an itinerary. The characteristic position of Supramonte di Baunei would make it possible to access the territory all year round however during the summer months the temperatures may reach peaks of unbearable heat, and during the winter months there could be especially intense weather conditions which therefore, in spite of the five treks being situated in the same area you will find some small differences between one and the other.

RIGHT HAND VERTICAL COLOUMN Main text General characteristics of the itinerary Short description and introductory note explaining the general characteristics of the itinerary. Description Complete report of the itinerary Elevation profile Quickly shows the positive and negative gradients which the itinerary offers. PAGE IN FRONT Planimetry Allows to visualize the total length of the itinerary indicating the main reference points for orienteering, the waypoints you will find in the description and the main areas touched by the itinerary. Notes Contain information on bivouacs, escape routes and whatever may come in useful along the walk.

QR-code In a few pages you will find a QR-Code with indications for its use.

Rappelling to reach Cala Birìala 

INFORMATION ON HOW TO CONSULT THE GUIDE BOOK AND HOW TO CORRECTLY READ THE ITINERARIES

CLASSIFICATION OF ITINERARIES BASED ON THEIR DIFFICULTY

T = Tourist

E = Excursionist

EEA F

Itineraries which run along lanes, mule tracks or easy paths, with evident routes and do not offer uncertainty or orienteering problems. They are usually carried out below 2000 metres and usually consist of access paths to alpine pastures or mountain huts. They require some knowledge of mountain environments and fitness for walking.

Itineraries which almost always run along paths, or else along tracks on varied terrain (pasture land, debris, screes), usually with sign posts; can be short, flat sections or slightly inclined with residue snow, and in case of falling, the sliding down can be stopped within a short distance and is without dangers. They often develop along open terrain, without paths but not problematic, always with adequate sign posting. They may develop along steep slopes; the exposed sections are generally protected (barriers) or can be carried out in safety (cables). They may have single passages on rock, not exposed, or short sections which are not tiring nor difficult thanks to equipment (ladders, pegs, cables) which do not require specific gear (harness, carabiners, etc). They require a sense of orienteering, as well as a certain amount of experience and knowledge of mountainous terrain, fitness in walking, as well as adequate shoe wear and gear.

EE = for expert excursionists

Itineraries which are usually sign posted but that require ability to move along particular terrain. Paths or tracks on arduous and treacherous terrain (steep slopes and/or slippery on grass, or mixed with rocks and grass, or rock and debris). Varied terrain at relatively high altitudes (scree, short and not steep snow fields, open slopes with no points of reference, etc). Rocky sections, with slight technical difficulties (equipped routes, vie ferrate, the least difficult). Excluding itineraries along glaciers, even if flat and/or with no crevasses on appearance (because crossing them would require the use of a rope and ice axe and knowledge of belaying manoeuvres). You will need: experience in the mountains in general and good knowledge of alpine environments; a steady step and must not suffer from vertigo; equipment, gear and adequate physical preparation.

EEA = for expert excursionists with gear

Equipped routes or vie ferrate, the use of self belay devices are necessary (harness, energy absorber, carabiners, Kevlar threads) and personal protection gear (helmet, gloves).

CAUTION: ANY MOUNTAINEERING DIFFICULTY MUST BE CONSIDERED SUPERIOR TO EXCURSION DIFFICULTIES. F = Easy, does not present any specific difficulties It is the easiest climbing grade, you have to know how to choose foot holds and often it is necessary to use hands to keep your balance; you can find moves of I and II grade and the progression could be not so easy for anyone suffering from vertigo.

PD = Not very difficult, presents a few mountaineering difficulties on rock

The single moves on rock can reach up to III grade and often mountain progression is necessary. You have to move one limb at a time and the use of hands is continuous on good holds.

Selvaggio Blu

Guided hikes

Logistics for selfguided trekking

Guides and services for hiking in Sardinia +39 389 8206439

Grotta del Fico

1.2

Ogliastra > Baunèi

DE BARRÀCCU IN BARRÀCCU – 2nd STAGE CHARACTERISTICS Splendid itinerary with one of the most significant amount of vertical height gain in all of the Supramonte di Baunei trek: set off and reach sea level reaching an altitude of 630m a.s.l. with more than 700mt of vertical height gain. The path, is wide and always evident, it allows you to dedicate your attention to the views which offer a variety which is out of the ordinary. The moon like environments of grey limestone prevail and the vastity of the two main codule, Còdula di Elune and Còdula di Sisine remains etched in the memory of anyone who walks along this path; completing the unforgettable picture of the Arco di Lopiro , the sheep pens of Onamarra and Su Irove Longu. Reaching Cala Sisine with the warm afternoon light repays you of all the hard effort made to complete the stage of the day.

difficulty

ÙÙÙÙÙ Physical effort

10 m

altitude at start

10 m

altitude at arrival

700 m

vertical height gain

12 km

distance

DESCRIPTION The path starts straight away behind the restaurant (2); follow a road built last century for carts which will be evident along all of the first part of the itinerary. It climbs up the slope with wide hair pin bends until it reaches the top called Nosculi (3). There are evident intrusions of basalt which can be seen on the surface; ancient lava emerging from a kilometric long fault line on Supramonte. Once you reach the hill’s ridge, the path continues at altitude on soft and dark terrain to then run down to Bacu Disterru. A few more steps and you will reach the bottom of Bacu Lopiro (4); now an endless uphill section starts which leads you to approximately 630m. We have been walking for more than an hour, and right next to the path the majestic arch of rock (5) rises which takes its name from BACU: impossible not to stop to take a photo… it forms a natural

6/8h

trekking time

– escape routes

600 m

9 10

500 m

400 m

11 5

300 m

200 m

100 m

0 km

13 14 2

10,218

Way Point

Bacu Àrta

1 Cala Lùna 2 Start of cart track 3 Nosculi 4 Bacu Lopiro 5 S’arcada ‘e Lopiro 6 Junction 7 Onamàrra 8 Cart track 9 Junction 10 Irove Longu 11 Bush 12 Hair pin bends 13 Cala Sisine 14 Final stage

Cala Lùna

1 3 Su Molènte

Bàcu Lopìro 4

Mar Tirreno Onamàrra

Iròve Lòngu

11 12

13 Cala Sisìne 14

 415 Punta Plumare  452 Punta Su Mulone

Coesèdda Plan’e Mùrta Punta’e Antine 320 

3.3 Ogliastra > Baunèi > SELVAGGIO BLU SU CONNÒTU – 3rd stage

116

come more difficult to follow along rutted fields and rocks. Walking in a north-west direction we reach a new panoramic terrace (7), the first over the Gulf of Orosèi: Serra d’Àrgius…a well deserved break to take a photo or two. On our left Bacu Sònnuli (8), very deep karst incision which does not allow us to lose height immediately. We take the path which goes in a south-west direction and find a passage through the rock which allows us to find the track once again which runs down gradually onto the right side of the bacu (to our left); now walking obliquely downhill on screes, branches of juniper and delicate moves until the two sides meet until a large orange cave (9).

After crossing it, the path runs up on large rocks immediately to the right (we do not follow the wide valley which opens up to our left). Once the difficulties have been overcome, we keep to the right to reach another shepherd’s settlement (10): Fènos Tràinos, recently restored impeccably. Taking time to admire and photograph this splendid sheep pen, its courtyard and its structures we then continue the walk along the path to the left of “su barràcu”. The track is evident once again and leads in a few minutes to dense woods of strawberry trees on a comfortable surface of earth and leaves. After entering the woods we need to be careful: to our left there

is a path (11) which runs through strawberry trees (we do not continue on the right of Selvaggio Blu’s original route, which would lead us in a few stages to leave the woods. We start to walk among trees and climb up gradually to Iròve ‘e Onàna under a pleasant and constant shade, keeping slightly to the right. A few metres from the rock face (12) which shuts off “Su Iròve” following the trail to the right, along a path which leads once again to the classic route to reach Punta Salìnas da Irbiddòssili. Follow the well marked path to the sheep pen Su Rùncu ‘e Su Prèssu (13) where it is possible to rest and take some nice photos. From the sheep pen walk around a rocky spur

until you intersect the path again; from this point to Punta Salinas you will find a number of paths crossing, all lead to the belvedere of Cala Goloritzè be careful not to stay too high up on our left (14). After climbing up some easy rock stages (15) one of Sardinia’s most fascinating views open up…a break on the most famous terrace of the coast is obligatory (16). Now let’s take the path immediately behind the “belvedere” keeping to the right downclimbing a steep slope until you reach a narrow ledge, at the end you need to down climb a juniper tree trunk (17) not before you have worn a helmet and harness and are tied in and on belay using the an-

The Mountain Guide Alberto De Giuli walking towards Su Rùncu’ e Su Prèssu 

117

3.6 Ogliastra > Baunèi > SELVAGGIO BLU SU CONNÒTU – 6th stage

134

hill along a scree, we have to follow the one that climbs up on the left. Climb up the small valley and continue walking without losing height until you reach a shepherd’s settlement: Coile Pìddi (5-6). A short break from the trek is compulsory to take photos of the baràcu and especially of the view which can be quickly reached towards the sea: we have come upon many panoramic terraces, however the view of the sea which opens up from this position is truly marvellous, probably one of the most beautiful along this coast. We return near the sheep pen and we go back along the main path (5) which leads us to below

the rock faces where we stopped a short while ago: downclimbing shortly allows us to reach a deep carved out section in the rocks discovered erroneously like Sa Nùrca (7). Another short break to take photos of this characteristic formation in the rock to then continue slightly downhill on the left below the wall; the anchor points of the first abseil of the day (8) 25m abseils are further on and can be reached walking below the rock face. The second abseil (9) which is 45m long can be reached quickly by walking close to the rock. At this point we have reached the large woods of Birìala Su Sàltu Mànnu: we walk along the

hair pin bends which run along the unstable scree, until you reach the charcoal site on top of the large land slide (10) which dominates Cala Birìala. Here quite an evident path starts through the woods of holly oak trees and strawberry trees which traverses it longitudinally: our feet can rest a bit on the soft ground, covered with earth and leaves and for roughly half an hour we can save energy by walking under the shade of the large trees. Shortly before an exciting passage the vegetation spreads out and the path leads to a large ladder (11) built by the coal workers: on large limestone boulders it allows the descent and

the passage to Isuìli and once again the view which opens up in front of us is extraordinary. Continue walking without losing height and go through the woods half way across the slope until you reach an obligatory passage (12); it comes from a rock face which overhangs over the sea: Su Pàssu de Orronnòro, even this was built by the carbon workers, a narrow ledge opened with the mines. We have now reached the last section of the woods of Su Pàssu de Orronnòro. After a few minutes of walking, the woods open up and we are in front of an immense rock fall of white limestone which is still unstable. In 2015, after Cala Birìala from above before the abseils after Sa Nùrca 

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4.4 Ogliastra > Baunèi > ARÈSTE – 4a tappa

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gia, da qui è impossibile sbagliare; dopo aver disceso una scala (13) e superato alcuni massi raggiungiamo un’altra perla del Mediterraneo (14), infiniti “ciottolini” bianchi che agli occhi dei pastori dei secoli scorsi dovevano sembrare piccole pulci bianche come la neve. Proprio al termine del bosco si trova un forno risalente al periodo dei carbonai, possiamo allestire il campo nei suoi pressi e concederci un indimenticabile bagno a fine serata.

NOTE Per raggiungere la zona dove approntare il bivacco dobbiamo tornare indietro sui nostri passi, risalire la scala ed entrare nel bosco. Il tratto evidenziato in rosso è il più delicato e impegnativo.

Il panorama su Cala Goloritzè dall’alto della Ferrata  La Via Ferrata di Arèste, impegnativo passaggio dopo i “Lèderes” 

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4.5 Ogliastra > Baunèi > ARÈSTE – 5a tappa

blu straordinario del mare con le baie e spiagge che creano un dipinto naturale; meriterebbe una lunga sosta per fissare nella memoria il luogo e il momento, ma si deve scendere in spiaggia che, dopo essersi calati, si raggiunge facilmente superando i pochi scogli che ci separano dalla sabbia. Ora ci meritiamo un pomeriggio di relax e di mare in quello che forse è l’angolo più suggestivo dell’intero Golfo.

NOTE Possiamo allestire il campo nel bosco soprastante di Bilaricòro che si raggiunge passando sugli scogli a sud della cala; passaggio obbligato un foro nella roccia che ci consente di superare la piccola baia rocciosa. La prima aia carbonile che incontriamo risalendo nel bosco si presta bene ad accoglierci per il nostro fine tappa. Come nelle precedenti tappe il tratto evidenziato in rosso è il più delicato e impegnativo.

Stretta fessura tra le rocce a Cala Birìala  Caratteristico passaggio prima di arrivare a Mudalòru 

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05 Difficult sections to reach the splendid Cala MudalĂ˛ru

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Trekking Out Since 1870