Arsutoria Only Man AW 20-21

Page 1

autumn/winter 2020-21


62

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

BERLUTI

CRAIG GREEN

GIORGIO ARMANI


DIOR

63

FUTURE CLASSICS

FALL WINTER E 2020/21


64

DUNHILL

NAMACHEKO

VALENTINO

DUNHILL


MSGM

LANVIN

FALL WINTER E 2020/21

MSGM

FUTURE CLASSICS

GIORGIO ARMANI

65


66

DIOR

ROCHAS

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

VETEMENTS


WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

67

NICE BOOTS!

FALL WINTER E 2020/21


68

PALOMO SPAIN

PALOMO SPAIN

FENDI

SACAI


LANVIN

HERMÈS

GIORGIO ARMANI

NICE BOOTS!

FALL WINTER E 2020/21

LOEWE

69


70

CRAIG GREEN

A COLD WALL

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

GIORGIO ARMANI


SACAI

71

URBAN TREKKING

FALL WINTER E 2020/21


CASUAL DAY BY DAY

DELAVE'

LORENZI

CORVARI

DOUCAL'S

O'KEEFFE

BRIMARTS

The casual and informal style uses crusts and suedes to flank waxed leathers and leathers often featuring used treatments, adding that extra special and striking historic touch, while outsoles are in leather and grip-fast rubber. The colour palette is warm and typical of the winter. Lo stile casual e informale punta su croste e scamosciati da affiancare a pellami ingrassati e spesso con trattamenti used, che aggiungono quel tocco di storia accattivante, mentre i fondi sono in cuoio e in gomma ad alto grip. La palette colori è calda e tipicamente invernale.

72


73

DONDUP


HENDERSON

WALKYS

A. TESTONI

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

SLADAN

74

PANTANETTI


CASUAL DAY BY DAY

NORBERTO COSTA

ALLEN EDMONDS

STEPTRONIC

LO.WHITE

STORM

LOTTUSSE 1877

75


TRAINER: MIX AND MATCH WITH MOUNTAIN TOUCHES

L4K3

ASFVLT

VEJA

PANTOFOLA D'ORO

FRANKLIN MARSHALL

MOACONCEPT

A city sports style that blends materials and colours together with sophistication, between mesh, leather, and suede, while also making a nod to Mountain inspirations with typical metallic hook fastenings and coloured strings. The focus is also on outsoles: boxed, multi-layered, or chunky. La sportiva da cittĂ mescola con ricercatezza materiali e colori, tra mesh, pelle e suede, anche se non mancano ispirazioni Mountain con i tipici gancetti metallici e i cordini colorati. Attenzione anche ai fondi: a cassetta, multistrato o chuncky.

76


77

LES HOMMES


URBAN FLY

M.MOUSTACHE

HOKA ONEONE

L4K3

78


TRAINER: MIX AND MATCH WITH MOUNTAIN TOUCHES

PANTOFOLA D'ORO

MOACONCEPT

M.MOUSTACHE

U.S. POLO ASSN.

PEGADA

FAGUO

79


CROCS

FRANKLIN MARSHALL

MIZUNO

MIZUNO

VAGABOND

80

FABI


TRAINER: MIX AND MATCH WITH MOUNTAIN TOUCHES

CAMPER

ROSCOMAR

HOKA ONEONE

ONE OF

VEJA

ROV

POLLINI

K&T

DINO DRAGHI

81


U.S. POLO ASSN.

D.A.T.E.

YATAY

WRANGLER

SAPATOTERAPIA

82

HUMMEL


TRAINER: MIX AND MATCH WITH MOUNTAIN TOUCHES

FRANKLIN MARSHALL

CANGURO

ROSCOMAR

LUMBERJACK

83


THE DRESSED ANKLE BOOT FOR HIM

SUPER TANNERY

DEMOCRATA

DELAVE'

MINORONZONI 1953

LORENZI

DUEDI’

Beatles e stivaletti allacciati mostrano la loro veste più elegante scegliendo pellami d’alto pregio come camosci, nappe e rettili, impreziositi da bucature all’inglese con disegni a coda di rondine, inserti sartoriali, colorazioni had-made e finissaggi anticati. Beatle boots and lace-up ankle boots show their most elegant side, choosing premium quality leather like suede, nappa, and reptile skin, embellished by English piercings with wingtip designs, sartorial inserts, handmade colours and antique finishes.

84


85

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI


ZEN AIR

DEMOCRATA

FRATELLI ALBORINO

CASA FAGLIANO

PANTANETTI

86

MARITAN


THE DRESSED ANKLE BOOT FOR HIM

FRATELLI BORGIOLI

MORESCHI

CLARKS

LAMBA FOOTWEAR

LEATHER LINKERS

LORENZI

87


SUPER TANNERY

LEGERO

FRANCESCHETTI

DOUCAL'S

MINORONZONI 1953

88

VIBERG


THE DRESSED ANKLE BOOT FOR HIM

R.M. WILLIAMS

SILVER STREET

ALLEN EDMONDS

GLOBO

ZEN AIR

STEPTRONIC

89


140

PRADA

BALMAIN

BERLUTI

MSGM


WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

141

SNEAKER IDENTITY

FALL WINTER 2020/21


142

JUNYA WATANABE

CRAIG GREEN

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

FENDI


MIHARA YASUHIRO

RESHAKE

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

SNEAKER IDENTITY

FALL WINTER 2020/21

YAMAMOTO

143


144

SACAI

GIORGIO ARMANI

FENDI

GIORGIO ARMANI


GIORGIO ARMANI

145

URBAN TREKKING

FALL WINTER 2020/21


146

VETEMENTS

LOUIS VUITTON

MIHARA YASUHIRO

DE VINCENZO


DRIES VAN NOTEN

147

HYPER

FALL WINTER 2020/21


148

LOUIS VUITTON

MIHARA YASUHIRO

LANVIN

MIHARA YASUHIRO


RESHAKE

DE VINCENZO

DRIES VAN NOTEN

HYPER

FALL WINTER 2020/21

BALMAIN

149


CLASSIC, BUT NOT EXCESSIVELY SO

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

JENSZEN

FRATELLI ALBORINO

FRANCESCO BENIGNO

STEFANO BRANCHINI

VIROLA

Oxford shoe e brogue, mocassini e double strap: l’eleganza maschile sembra ricalcare i solchi della tradizione ma in realtà introduce piccole-grandi rivoluzioni affiancando al cuoio le suole gommate, scoprendo nuove colorazioni e fantasie, oppure dettagli inaspettati. Oxford shoes and brogues, moccasins and double straps: masculine elegance seems to retrace the pathways of tradition, while in reality it introduces small-important revolutions, with leather but also rubber soles, while revealing new colours and patterns, or unexpected details.

150


151

FENDI


FRATELLI ROSSETTI

ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA

LACEYS

FRANCESCO BENIGNO

BRIMARTS

152

KANPEKINA


CLASSIC, BUT NOT EXCESSIVELY SO

FRANCESCHETTI

SPERNANZONI

FRATELLI ALBORINO

DELAVE'

LEATHER LINKERS

PELLETTIERI DI PARMA

153


PEGADA

OUTSET

ALDEN

KARAM UDYOG

154


CLASSIC, BUT NOT EXCESSIVELY SO

ALDEN

KANPEKINA

SUPER TANNERY

STEFANO BRANCHINI

LEATHER LINKERS

FRANCESCHETTI

155


RARE

O'KEEFFE

ALDEN

CLARKS

DEMOCRATA

156

RARE


CLASSIC, BUT NOT EXCESSIVELY SO

DUEDI’

ANTICA CALZOLERIA CAMPANA

FRANCESCO BENIGNO

SUPER TANNERY

VIROLA

DINO DRAGHI

157


CITY SNEAKER

PAOLO BOVE

ELIA MAURIZI

STEFANO BRANCHINI

DOUCAL'S

FRATELLI BORGIOLI

VOILE BLANCHE

Perfect with the sportiest looks but also with the new informal elegance: the sneaker is increasingly present in the male wardrobe, proposed in its most elegant guise especially in fine, also mixed together, leathers and with hand made finishing. Perfetta con i look più sportivi ma anche con la nuova eleganza informale: la sneaker è sempre più presente nel guardaroba maschile, proposta nella sua veste più elegante soprattutto in pellami pregiati, anche mixati tra loro e con finissaggi hand-made.

158


WALES BONNER


BRIMARTS

DI BIANCO SCARPE

PAPELLA

RARE

CASA FAGLIANO

160

BRIMARTS


CITY SNEAKER

LACEYS

U.S. POLO ASSN.

STORM

GLOBO

SILVER STREET

COXX BORBA

161


CORVARI

SPERNANZONI

WALKYS

AMBITIOUS

FABI

162

LORENZI


CITY SNEAKER

DEMOCRATA

M.MOUSTACHE

NORBERTO COSTA

ABC FOOTWEAR

PELLETTIERI DI PARMA

CAVAL

163


FRETZ MEN

ROSCOMAR

CORVARI

STEPTRONIC

DUEDI’

164

STEFANO BRANCHINI


CITY SNEAKER

DI BIANCO SCARPE

SPERNANZONI

FABI

MORESCHI

VAGABOND

S. OLIVER

165


ANKLE BOOTS FOR HIM

DINO DRAGHI

PALLADIUM

ORTIGNI 1930

FRACAP

A. TESTONI

ALEXANDER HOTTO

Chelsea boots with grip-fast soles and mountain boots with typical heavy-duty grip-fast soles and hook fastenings are proposed alongside casual half boots with a vintage look in the most casual men’s wardrobe for the coming winter. Chelsea boots con suola ad alto grip e scarponcini da montagna, con la tipica suola a carrarmato e la chiusura a gancetti, convivono con gli stivaletti casual dal look vintage nel guardaroba maschile piÚ casual del prossimo inverno.

166


167

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA


VIROLA

A. TESTONI

RICAP

R.M. WILLIAMS

COXX BORBA

168

PEGADA


ANKLE BOOTS FOR HIM

O'KEEFFE

MENGHI

PEZZOL

MORESCHI

FABI

CANGURO

169


WRANGLER

URBAN FLY

CORVARI

DELAVE'

POLLINI

170

MARINOZZI


ANKLE BOOTS FOR HIM

LO.WHITE

MARITAN

DI BIANCO SCARPE

OUTSET

MACRO AYAKKABI

FRATELLI BORGIOLI

171


WALKYS

VIBERG

VAGABOND

WRANGLER

VIBERG

172

FRACAP


ANKLE BOOTS FOR HIM

R.M. WILLIAMS

ORTIGNI 1930

MARINA MILITARE BY MAXENWORLD

STARLET

NORBERTO COSTA

ABC FOOTWEAR

173


ART DIRECTION

SENDRA BOOTS

L. GUILLO PARIS

GIOVANNI CONTI

GIOVANNI CONTI

GIANFRANCO LATTANZI

MELVIN & HAMILTON

When creativity steps on the accelerator, the classic encounters a particularly extroverted taste. Many colours and a mix of fun and elegant graphics. Quando la creatività spinge sull’acceleratore si incontrano classici dal gusto decisamente estroverso. Molto colore e mix di grafiche tra il divertente e l’elegante.

88


89

PALOMO SPAIN


SO COOL BEATLE

I MASCHI

STONEFLY

MARECHIARO 1962

CENTENARIO

VALENTINO SHOES

MARINA MILITARE

For several seasons, the men’s ankle boot with elastic has been offering many variations to stay on the crest of the wave. Some very interesting creative work has been performed on the shape of the elastic and on the use of elegant colours and prints. Da diverse stagioni lo stivaletto maschile con elastico indaga molte varianti per rimanere sulla cresta dell’onda. Molto interessante il lavoro creativo sulla forma dell’elastico o l’utilizzo di colori e stampe eleganti.

90


91

dior men


FRANCESCO BENIGNO

A.S. 98

SIOUX

ANTICA CUOIERIA

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

92

TIMOTHEE PARIS


SO COOL BEATLE

EXTON

ALVIERO MARTINI

VALERIO1966

FERRACINI

OPERA

ANTONIO MAURIZI

BIKKEMBERGS

PITTI SHOES

STURLINI

93


BOOTIE

I MASCHI

DINO DRAGHI

AMBITIOUS

PEDREIRA

SCARPA

CORVARI

The classic ankle boot, also in retro version or with some details reminiscent of the climbing boot, remains the real winner of the season. Some of the shapes on show revive the desire to go beyond the most punk tastes. Lo stivaletto classico, anche in versione retrò o con qualche dettaglio che richiama i modelli da montagna, rimane il vero vincitore della stagione. Qualche forma sfilata rilancia la voglia di andare oltre i gusti piÚ punk.

94


95

HENRIK VIBSKOV


LEMARGO

LEMARGO

PETROFF 1954

COPENHAGEN

FRANCESCHETTI

96

DINO BIGIONI


BOOTIE

ZAMPIERE

STEFANO BORELLA

GIOVANNI CONTI

GRAZIANO SALVATELLI

GRAZIANO SALVATELLI

PROFESSION BOTTIER

97


MORESCHI

PROFESSION BOTTIER

VIROLA INTERNATIONAL

KOST

MELVIN & HAMILTON

98

PEGADA


BOOTIE

OPERA

PITTI SHOES

DELAVE'

GIORGIO 1958

OPERA

MARITAN

99


STRONG ATTITUDE

BOEMOS

JP DAVID

PRIVATE LABEL

MARINA MILITARE

H:CE

FRANCESCHETTI

More ankle boots. In this case, we return to the aggressive style that has been so successful in recent seasons both in women’s and men’s versions. Materials with shiny surfaces and tending to dark tones are accompanied in some cases by the massive use of metal accessories. Ancora stivaletti. In questo caso torniamo allo stile aggressivo che tanto successo ha riscosso nelle ultime stagioni sia in versione femminile che maschile. Materiali dalle superfici lucide e tendenti ai toni scuri, si accompagnano, in alcuni casi, con l’uso massivo di accessori metallici.

100


101

TIMO WEILAND


CRAZY TRAINING

OVER TEAK

OVER TEAK

FABIANO RICCI

MOA CONCEPT

HIDE & JACK

FLOWER MOUNTAIN

The craziest and most fun sneakers, intended mainly for people with a strong and particular personality, stand out for the game of laces and cords that design the upper. More room has been made for soles with an exaggerated and multiform design. Le sneaker piĂš folli e divertenti, quelle destinate a personalitĂ forti e particolari, si distinguono specialmente per il gioco di lacci e, quasi, cordoncini che vanno a disegnare la tomaia. Ancora spazio per suole dal design esagerato e multiforme.

102


103

COMME DES GARCONS


MOA CONCEPT

SERAFINI

HIDE & JACK

BOGNER

A.S. 98

104

BIKKEMBERGS


CRAZY TRAINING

SPERNANZONI

FRANCESCHETTI

EXTON

STEVE MADDEN

TIMOTHEE PARIS

PITTI SHOES

DEPLACE

LORENZI

MAURI

105


BASKET TASTE

NOXIS

COPENHAGEN

PEPE JEANS

BOEMOS

LUCA GUERRINI

GIAMPIERONICOLA

The taste of the “fashion sneaker” is undoubtedly everywhere and has contaminated every corner of the sports footwear market. Even the classic basketball shoe climbs the rank of favourite fashion trends. Lots of leather for superior dignity. La forma “sneaker modaiola” è senza dubbio pervasiva e ha contagiato ogni ambito della calzatura sportiva. Anche il classico modello basket scala la classifica del fashion trend preferito. Tanta pelle per guadagnare una dignità superiore.

106


107

MAISON MIHARA


MORE AND MORE MOUNTAIN

LOMER

M&G

SOFTWALK

I MASCHI

AMBITIOUS

PEPE JEANS

This is another theme that doesn’t want to go out of fashion, but rather continues in its ongoing investigation on how to make the classic climbing boot fashionable. It should be underlined that the real aesthetic added value of these boots is the technical aspect. Ecco un altro tema che non vuole passare di moda, anzi prosegue nella sua incessante indagine di come rendere modaiole le classiche pedule da montagna. L’aspetto tecnico di questi stivaletti è il vero valore aggiunto estetico da sottolineare.

108


109

UNDERCOVER


VOILE BLANCHE

COLMAR

POLLINI

PAKERSON

WIGGY'S SURVIVAL

110

CORVARI


MORE AND MORE MOUNTAIN

GIAMPIERONICOLA

VOILE BLANCHE

STEFANO BORELLA

GRAZIANO SALVATELLI

CERRUTI 1881

SIOUX

111


RUNNING LOVE

BIKKEMBERGS

AZZARO

ALLROUNDER

JR SNEAKERS

FESSURA

D.A.T.E.

The typical running shoe is perfect for experimenting with new types of soles and bottoms designed in a creative, geometrical and captivating way. There is also a large mix of materials, and a subtle use of colour. Il tipico modello da running è il migliore su cui sperimentare nuove forme di suole e fondi fra il creativo, il geometrico e l’accattivante. Non possono mancare i mix materici. Sottotono l’uso del colore.

112


113

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING


MAGAZINES ARSUTORIA

10 Issues Arsutoria offers the most complete information for footwear manufacturers and designers: collections, materials and technology.

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ARPEL

4 Issues Arpel magazine is exclusively dedicated to bags & leathergoods: news & interviews, scouting, collections, materials and technology.

arpelmagazine.com

AFMAG

4+2 Issues AFmag – Accessory Fashion is a new magazine come to life to interpret the changes in the world of fashion accessories.

af-magazine.com

FOTO SHOE 30

6 Issues An overview on medium-end footwear market: news, articles and pictures. Foto Shoe 30 is a must have for wholesalers and mass retailers.

fotoshoemagazine.com

BAMBINO

2 Issues Focused on children and kids footwear, Bambino inlcudes also the access to arstrends.com/Kids, the online database of shoes.

fotoshoemagazine.com

ARSTANNERY

6 Issues Tannery magazine is focused on chemicals and technology for leather.

tannerymagazine.com

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CONTENTS ONLINE www.edizioniaf.com

Concept and colors #hashtag Catwalk analysis Shapes analysis Materials


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