Arsutoria Only Man SS 22

Page 1

spring/summer 2022


MASCULINE MINIMALISM

ARC TERYX

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

RICK OWENS

A COLD WALL

NIKE

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

A style guided by the motto ‘Less is more’, which is dominated by clear structures, simple lines, and clean silhouettes, where superfluous decorations and trim are eliminated, leaving room for a palette of colours characterised by monochromatic and neutral tones, as the common denominator between elegance and sportswear. Uno stile guidato dal motto ‘Less is more’ dominato da strutture chiare, linee semplici e silhouettes pulite, dove la rinuncia a superflui abbellimenti e orpelli lascia spazio ad una palette colori caratterizzata dal monocromatismo e dalle tonalità neutre, trait d’union tra eleganza e sportswear.

1 1 4 TECHSTYLE


RAG AND BONE

TECHSTYLE 1 1 5


OFF PLAY

NIKE

ACNE STUDIOS

RAF SIMONS

NIKE

FENDI

1 1 6 TECHSTYLE

COMMON PROJECTS

MAISON MARGIELA

COMMON PROJECTS


MASCULINE MINIMALISM

TOM FORD

ACNE STUDIOS

SAINT LAURENT

SANTONI

MAISON MARGIELA

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

SANTONI

MARNI

LORO PIANA

TOM FORD

BOTTEGA VENETA

THOM BROWN

TECHSTYLE 1 1 7


CHUNKY & PLATFORM

AMIRI

AND WANDER

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

REEBOK

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

ACNE STUDIOS

After getting rid of obsolete standards of beauty and rigid and inflexible labels, men are free to experiment with their own personalities through bolder and more aggressive silhouettes, and unpredictable solutions, characterised by platforms and chunky outsoles, above all in sportswear. Abbandonati obsoleti canoni estetici e rigide etichette, l’uomo si sente libero di esprimere la propria personalità attraverso silhouette più spinte ed aggressive e soluzioni meno scontate caratterizzate da platform e fondi chunky, soprattutto nello sportswear.

1 1 8 TECHSTYLE


DSQUARED2

TECHSTYLE 1 1 9


VISVIM

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

KENZO

RAF SIMONS

REEBOK X COTTWEILER

1 2 0 TECHSTYLE

HOKA ONE ONE


CHUNKY & PLATFORM

HOKA ONE ONE

BALENCIAGA

MAISON MARGIELA

ASICS

NIKE

DSQUARED

TECHSTYLE 1 2 1


URBAN WARDROBE

SILVANO LATTANZI

MARITAN

HARRIS

A. TESTONI

CADINI

CALPIERRE

With a classic inspiration but revisited in new colours and details, the creations for the contemporary man translate into an elegant, chic and refined style. To be combined with ease with suits or jeans and a shirt, very refined nevertheless. Di spunto classico ma rivisitate in nuovi colori e dettagli, le creazioni per l’uomo contemporaneo si traducono in uno stile elegante, chic e ricercato. Da abbinare con disinvoltura ai completi o a jeans e camicia, in tutta raffinatezza.

32


33

ZEGNA


DOUCAL'S

STURLINI

CALPIERRE

FRANCESCHETTI

CARLI 1937

34

CADINI


URBAN WARDROBE

BARBATI

CADINI

ATLANTA MOCASSIN

CADINI

ANTICA CUOIERIA

BRIMARTS

35


COLOUR CRAVE

STURLINI

MOMO DESIGN

N’GO SHOES

STURLINI

SUN 68

RUN OF

Daring bright hues and fun prints, including leather, canvas and technical fabric. The sneaker proposals are varied and satisfy all tastes, dedicated to those who want to revisit the classic office suit in a contemporary key or to those looking for comfort above all else. Osano colori vivaci e stampe divertenti, tra pelle, canvas e tessuto tecnico. Le proposte di sneaker sono molteplici e accontentano tutti i gusti, dedicate a chi desidera rivisitare in chiave contemporanea il classico completo da ufficio o a chi ricerca la comodità sopra ogni cosa.

36


37

TOD’S


SUN 68

RUN OF

LOTTO LEGGENDA

COLORS OF CALIFORNIA

FESSURA

38

CARLI 1937


COLOUR CRAVE

CALPIERRE

WANMA

VOILE BLANCHE

CERRUTI 1881

SUN 68

ARMATA DI MARE

39


ULTRA EXCELLENCE

CADINI

A. TESTONI

CADINI

A. TESTONI

CALPIERRE

HARRIS

The numerous variations of the classics come in shades beyond the timeless black/tan, focus on fine workmanship and a pinch (but not too much) of eccentricity. The dynamic and metropolitan allure of the new collections harmoniously mixes the most diverse influences. Le numerose declinazioni del classico si rivestono di sfumature anche al là dei timeless nero/cuoio, puntano su lavorazioni di pregio e un pizzico (ma non troppo) di eccentricità. L’allure dinamica e metropolitana delle nuove collezioni mescola armoniosamente le influenze più diverse.

40


41

BRIONI


STURLINI

CARLI 1937

L.F. LIDFORT

BRIMARTS

MARITAN

42

L.F. LIDFORT


ULTRA EXCELLENCE

CALPIERRE

MARITAN

STURLINI

A.S. 98

HARRIS

SILVANO LATTANZI

43


SILVANO LATTANZI

FRACAP

A.S. 98

A.S. 98

44


ULTRA EXCELLENCE

SILVANO LATTANZI

CARLI 1937

SILVANO LATTANZI

FRANCESCHETTI

HARRIS

CALPIERRE

45


TRADITION & EVOLUTION

MARITAN

FRANCESCHETTI

CAMPER

CANDICE COOPER

FRANCESCHETTI

FRACAP

A desire for summer, for holidays, for getting around in the open air. But even for those who have to stay in the city, sandals on their feet allow you to stay cool, comfortable and - most of all - dream of escaping. Voglia d’estate, di vacanze, di muoversi all’aria aperta. Ma anche per chi è costretto in città, i sandali ai piedi permettono di stare freschi, comodi e -soprattutto sognare di evadere.

46


47

PRADA


COMFORT IDENTITY

NALHO

TEVA

PLUS

CANDICE COOPER

COLORS OF CALIFORNIA

CROCS

The evolution of technical beach and sport sandals leaves their more specific field and is combined with casual outfits for leisure and the city, with great nonchalance. Logos stand out in plain sight as well as colorful patterns. L’evoluzione dei sandali tecnici da spiaggia e sport esce dall’ambito più specifico e si abbina ad outfit casual per il tempo libero e la città, con grande nonchalance. Spiccano loghi in bella vista e pattern variopinti.

48


49

FENDI


MINIMAL AESTHETIC

PANTOFOLA D'ORO

FRANCESCHETTI

FESSURA

GOODYEAR EAGLE

FRANCESCHETTI

ANTICA CUOIERIA

Black and white - also in combination are perfect for sneakers, whether it is to complete your casual chic look or to revisit the classic office suit in a contemporary way: non-conformism, versatility, comfort and above all high quality materials dominate. Il bianco e nero - anche in abbinamento - è perfetto per le sneaker, sia che si tratti di completare il proprio look casual chic o di rivisitare in chiave contemporanea il classico completo da ufficio: predominano anticonformismo, versatilità, comodità e soprattutto materiali di alta qualità.

50


51

ISABEL MARANT


MOMO DESIGN

NIRA RUBENS

NIRA RUBENS

CERRUTI 1881

MOMO DESIGN

52

ARMATA DI MARE


MINIMAL AESTHETIC

HARRIS

FLOWER MOUNTAIN

MUNICH

CERRUTI 1881

A. TESTONI

.0

53


CANDICE COOPER

LORDS & FOOLS

NTN66

CALPIERRE

STURLINI

CARLI 1937

ATLANTA MOCASSIN

BRIMARTS

54

BARBATI


MINIMAL AESTHETIC

WANMA

CANDICE COOPER

FESSURA

CERRUTI 1881

55


HYBRIDATION MOOD

J. ANDRÉ

URBANFLY

AMBITIOUS

KHAWAJA TANNERIES

KTM BY FOOTLIB

SHAFI

The formal code tuned upside down by the habit of smart working is not willing to sacrifice the comfort of home, and so the style evolves, proposing models that are fruit of a hybridization that focuses on classically inspired uppers and sporty outsoles for a more relaxed business look. Il codice formale, stravolto dall’abitudine allo smartworking, non rinuncia al confort di casa e la moda si adegua proponendo modelli frutto di ibridazioni che puntano su tomaie di spunto classico su fondi dal carattere sportivo, per una divisa di lavoro più rilassata.

70


B-LINE

AGUCINO

CORAF

WALKYS

PANDEW

1 HUNDRED SHOES

71


LEISURETIME

1 HUNDRED SHOES

STORM

LA CUOIERIA

STORM

PRIME SHOES

KTM BY FOOTLIB

Free time in the name of comfort and style: among the cult items there is the moccasin in all its declinations and sail or driver variants, but there is no lack of slip-ons and lace-ups with sporty accents. The tones are those of the sea and the sand with hints of bright colors. Tempo libero all’insegna del confort e dello stile: tra i capi cult c’è il mocassino in tutte le sue declinazioni e varianti vela o driver, ma non mancano slip-ons e allacciate con accenti sporty. I toni sono quelli del mare e della sabbia con accenni di colori accesi.

72


73

MAGLIANO


GALANT

LORENZI

PARK EXPORTS

PARK EXPORTS

74


LEISURETIME

MOCASINES PASTORET

PANUCCI BY GULER

ELEGANT

MILTON RICARDO

IMAC

GERONIMO

SHAFI

MOCASINES PASTORET

FIRHAJR FOOTWEAR (PRIVATE)

75


SUMMER CASUAL

MGP

GERONIMO

EMANUELA

AMBITIOUS

GLOBO

GERONIMO

Natural materials like cotton canvas and hemp, rope details and recycled soles: the casual summer look is reinvented in an eco-friendly key, adopting a relaxed look that prefers the shapes of slip-ons and the apron toe shoe. Materiali naturali come canvas di cotone e canapa, dettagli in corda e suole riciclate: il casual estivo si reinventa in chiave consapevole adottando una estetica rilassata, che privilegia le forme dello slip-on e dell’apron toe shoe.

76


SAB CALZADOS

PRIME SHOES

MARINOZZI

PINOSO'S

EMANUELA

LOOKFOOT

77


INNOSTALGIA

JJ FOOTWEAR

GERONIMO

SCAGLIONI CALZATURE

KUSKA

BULLBOXER

IMAC

Innovation and nostalgia: a look that takes its cue from the Nineties with its characteristic mix&match of materials and colour blocks, but with a revamped silhouette featuring more voluminous outsoles, even if they are less over-thetop than those of last season. The new sneaker is beautiful to behold and high performance. Innovazione e nostalgia: un’estetica che si rifà agli anni Novanta con i caratteristici mix&match di materiali e color block ma con una silhouette aggiornata da fondi più voluminosi, anche se meno esasperati delle scorse stagioni. La nuova sneaker, bella da vedere e performante.

78


79

WOOLRICH


CORAF

PARK EXPORTS

O-THREE

LOOKFOOT

MAT STAR

80

KOMCERO


INNOSTALGIA

URBANFLY

MATA

MUSTANG SHOES

AMBITIOUS

JOSELI

KTM BY FOOTLIB

81


THE MARCOMEN

EMRELINI

SAFE STEP

1 HUNDRED SHOES

ARMATA DI MARE

82

STORM


INNOSTALGIA

PANDEW

CORAF

POLECAT

GLOBO

PAOLO BOVE

HOLD

SAYINER AYAKKABI SAN.TIC. LTD. STI.

LIBERO

GERONIMO

83


CITY HIKING

GRISPORT

M&G

M&G

MILTON RICARDO

NORTH OF WILD

APARSO

Urban walking becomes a serious business: the hiking concept enters the city and conquers metropolitan panoramas with models that know how to combine performance with the freshness of design and innovative technical solutions. La passeggiata urbana diventa un affare serio: il concept hiking si fa cittadino e conquista i panorami metropolitani con modelli che sanno coniugare prestazioni alla freschezza del design e alle innovative soluzioni tecniche.

84


MAT STAR

LA CUOIERIA

M&G

K-HIKE

85


SLIPPER FEVER

DUELLE

PANDEW

MAT STAR

ROGER INDUSTRIES LTD

LA CUOIERIA

ELEGANT

Between technical details borrowed from the sports world, camouflage patterns, and matchings of leather and canvas, the freshest and most comfortable shoe represented by the slipper updates its look, becoming a leading trend for the warmest season. Tra dettagli tecnici presi in prestito dal mondo dello sport, fantasie camo, abbinamenti di cuoio e canvas, la calzatura più comoda e fresca, la slipper, aggiorna il suo look diventando l’atout della stagione più calda.

86


ECO SLIP

MUSTANG SHOES

STORM

NAZCA - MONDOALEGRE

87


KNITMANIA

M&G

KING PAOLO

BULLBOXER

KING PAOLO

NORTH OF WILD

NORTH OF WILD

Seamless uppers, knitted fabrics and socks characterize the most innovative trainers with patterns where creativity is combined with performance in search of new designs, 3D motifs, different densities to create targeted support areas. Tomaie seamless, tessuti e calzari in maglia caratterizzano le più innovative trainer con pattern dove la creatività si abbina alla performance alla ricerca di nuovi design, motivi 3D, diverse densità per creare zone di sostegno mirate.

88


MAT STAR

GAMAS

ISIKLAR

AMBITIOUS

89


CITY SNEAKERS

MELVIN & HAMILTON

ARISH

ZEROCENTCINQ

TRIPPEN

MARCUS ALEXANDER

ARMATA DI MARE

Once again, the sneaker is the reigning protagonist of men’s fashion, capable like no other of combining comfort with style. For the coming season, it is proposed with total white rubber or more structured boxed outsoles and matched with a neutral single-tone upper or with coloured inserts in different materials. Ancora una volta la sneaker è la grande protagonista della moda maschile, capace come nessun’altra di unire confort e stile, e proposta per la prossima stagione con fondi a cassetta in gomma total white oppure più strutturati, abbinati a tomaia monocromatica neutra o con inserti di colore e materiali diversi.

98


99

A-COLD-WALL*


MIGUEL VIEIRA

O.T.A PARIS

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI

L4K3

ROGAL'S

100

KAMO-GUTSU


CITY SNEAKERS

MELVIN & HAMILTON

FLORENCE

ARISH

DINO DRAGHI

O.T.A PARIS

STURLINI

101


ROBERTO BOTTICELLI

MARIANO

CORAF

KAMO-GUTSU

FAUZIAN JEUNESSE

102

ROGAL'S


CITY SNEAKERS

DINO BIGIONI

BRECOS

ERKE

ANTICA CUOIERIA

MARIANO

RIDGE SHOES

103


MARIO FAGNI

DINO BIGIONI

W6YZ

HARRIS SHOES 1913

RIDGE SHOES

104


CITY SNEAKERS

HERGOS

L4K3

CALPIERRE

MIGUEL VIEIRA

AGDA

GIORGIO 1958

105


BENSON

MARCUS ALEXANDER

106

ALDO BRUE'

ORMEDA


CITY SNEAKERS

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI

A.S. 98

FLORENCE

JB MARTIN

J. REINALDO

FLECS

107


RETHINKING THE CLASSIC

GALAPA MILANO

CORRENTE

MARIO BRUNI

GIORGIO 1958

BRECOS

MINORONZONI 1953

Tapered lines that blend with uppers in premium leathers, embellished by colourways that range from traditional black and brown to new nuances like blue, with an emphasis on artisanal workmanship, piercings, interweavings, and small and sophisticated patterns. Plus, a nod is made to more destructured shapes matched with soft and unlined leathers, for a more nonchalant look. Linee affusolate si sposano con tomaie in pellami pregiati, impreziositi da colorazioni che vanno dai tradizionali neri e marroni a nuove nuances come i blu, con un accento sulle lavorazioni artigianali, le bucature, gli intrecci,i pattern piccoli e raffinati. Non mancano le forme più destrutturate abbinate ai pellami morbidi e sfoderati, per un look più nonchalant.

108


109

GIORGIO ARMANI


GALAPA MILANO

JOOZE

MARIANO

BRUNO CASCINELLI

DESAI

110

JB MARTIN


RETHINKING THE CLASSIC

GIORGIO 1958

CORAF

FRANCESCHETTI

HARRIS SHOES 1913

FLECS

CONHPOL

111


BOEMOS

CALPIERRE

CONHPOL

FLORENCE

ALDO BRUE'

112

MARIO FAGNI


RETHINKING THE CLASSIC

MIGUEL VIEIRA

HARRIS SHOES 1913

ALEXANDER HOTTO

ARTIOLI

ANTICA CUOIERIA

AOKANG GROUP

113


CORRENTE

FLORENCE

MINORONZONI 1953

MARITAN

MASSIMO GRANIERI

114

JP DAVID


RETHINKING THE CLASSIC

LUCA GUERRINI

CALZATURIFICIO GRAVINO

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI

JERELYN CREADO

AGDA

CONHPOL

115


THE SANDAL FOR HIM

CALZATURIFICIO FRATELLI VANNI

N NOTARO

CARTAGO

FLY FLOT

LUCA GUERRINI

RIDER

In the new men’s wardrobe, which is also elegant, increasing room is made for the sandal, which we find in the proposals for the coming season both in a rubber sports version, and in an exquisite leather version with important artisanal handiwork. Nel nuovo guardaroba maschile, anche elegante, c’è sempre più spazio anche per il sandalo, che troviamo nelle proposte per la prossima stagione sia in versione sportiva in gomma, sia in pelle pregiata con importanti lavorazioni artigianali.

116


CARTAGO

RIDER

CALZATURIFICIO FRATELLI VANNI

ARTIOLI

RIDGE SHOES

LUCA GUERRINI

117


Design inspirations from the past, present and future

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historical archive Arsutoria (shoes) and Arpel (bags) historical archives available online. Arsutoria magazines from 1947 to 1980 and Arpel magazines from 1965 to 1980

arstrends.com Online database of photos of shoes, bags and materials, categorized by style, season, events and much more. Hundreds of new pictures uploaded every week from fairs collection, catwalks, retail windows and e-commerce.

Arsutoria Trends Guide An exclusive focus on shoes and bags to offer unique insights and ideas. A unique research on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed into several aspects: keywords, colors, volumes, materials, moodboards, catwalk analysis.


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