slow core
larchivium
trends guide
c_y_v_a virtual adventure
fall winter 2020/2021
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RESEARCH MATERIALS THAT MATTER
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KEY WORDS LARCHIVIUM COLLECTOR MANIA
C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE
ARCHIVES OF STORYTELLING
NETFLIX MOVIE TRAVEL
MINIMALISM AS NEW CLASSICISM
FINELY DETAILED
URBAN VIRTUALITY
SURREAL SIMPLICITY
SENSUAL
ART INSTALLATION
SLOW LIVING
PARIS 1984 / PARIS, TEXAS
GLAM TECH
SOFT CORE
70’S PLASTIC IN LOS ANGELES
MIXED MEDIA
SOFT MASCULINITY
INTERGALACTIC TRAVELS
SOFT FEMININITY
ROCKABILLY FROM TOKYO TO LOS ANGELES
COLLISION OF HUMANS AND HUMANOIDS
#REMAKE
VINYL-RETRO VINTAGE
MOTOR RACING CULTURE
EXOTIC MEMORIES
90’S POST-PUNK ATTITUDE
AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN SARTORIAL FILTER
STRONG TAILORING PROPOSITION
HYPER TECHNO
CLEAN AND RUSTIC
FINISHINGS
BASIC AND ORGANIC
360° ACTIONS
SLOW COUNTRY
UPCYCLING 5.0
TONED DOWN OUTDOOR
EXPERIMENTAL
REFRESHING SEMPLICITY
VINTAGE SURREAL REMIX HENNA DECORATIONS TROMPE L’OEIL FORNASETTI
SLOW CORE
#USETHEEXISTING
SOPHISTICATED NORMCORE GRUNGY VIBE
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concept larchivium The material texture of rich and very light leathers, such as calf, semi aniline and vegetable, is enhanced by low reliefs. Surface techniques are synonymous with depth, to enhance decorative motifs, thicknesses and style. The look of the most sophisticated leathers for semirigid bags and glossy matt boots will be smooth, clean and thin. Trompe l’oeil effects made with metallic membranes are enriched with digitally hand-painted effects. Bubbles and flowers are embroidered on easily moulded lamb skins. Fur effects are also the excuse to find a new material interpretation. Made of yarns braided with leather strips, furs display various lengths and are coupled with thin leather layers in sheepskin version or double face effect fur. Tartan and check patterns on fabric are a classic that is renewed with new finishes, because finishings are often slippery, waxed and semi-opaque, craquelé. Interesting veins on flesh splits let you catch a sight of two-tones on both sides. Metal details are dark, blackened, almost tone on tone with brown ebony colours or darkened mahogany.
slow core Leathers look like natural regenerated materials. Split leather and sheepskin, buffalo and calf leather with rough, wild, nomadic, crafted treatments. Braidings and scratchings will be very important to enhance the veins on leathers. Classic skins have very soft and well-blended fillings and marbled effects. Impeccably finished Nappa and smooth leathers are processed with puffed up paddings for minimal and very neat models. Fabrics such as felt and regenerated compounds have mélange, poorly finished and compact aspects. Soft and smooth coats and finishes ennoble fibres and leathers. Metal fittings are clean, waxed and lacquered, without oversights.
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concept c_y_v_a virtual adventure The essence of the matter is the triumph of the new synthetic, artificial, recycled, technological material with a thick patina of vinyl, liquid paint, glaze. There will be more fabrics than leathers, but fabrics that do not resemble themselves, in the usual sense of the term. Textile compounds take their place in the Olympus of the most innovative materials, made with agglomerates of new consistencies and textures. The shoe will be special because its production process starts from the raw material, as does the bag. Next-gen materials with brand new grain are being created. They are gummy and slippery, dusty and dry, soft and in relief. Material effects lend themselves to double-sided volumes. Couplings and paddings offer new assemblies, with air inside, silicone and different foam compounds. Creasings and layerings are often optical effects. Metal fittings as well as soles come from upcycling compounds, as do small accessories. The laser will engrave everything, also using complex techniques that print and drill on extreme angles. The digital artisan uses special machinery also for processes, which become part of the final result.
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larchivium 00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 103
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larchivium
*
Collector mania Collector mania becomes one of the most current obsessions. Creating and collecting, ideas, styles, objects, memories, thoughts and patterns that tell absurd and unforgettable stories. A new aesthetic of the beauty and well crafted, where sensuality is expressed through personalisation. A thousand worlds enclosed in millions of creative globe trotters. Sartorial skills are sought, and eclecticism is expressed. Each brand reviews its own sense of beauty and of special editions. At the base of it lies the ambition to mix cultures from all over to recreate new and more conceptual provocations, as was the Italian current “Metafisica”, which in the early 1900s changed the canons of contemporary art. Fornasetti is the current icon of the visionary collector, where graphics, form and application propose an unreal and metaphysical aesthetic. He is ironic, linear and provocative, fresh and irreverent. Tomo Koizumi recently debuted in New York, offering a mix of styles that unite Capucci, Sailor Moon and Leigh Bowery. Dondoks instead is a shoe brand of a Mexican/French duo, with a Latin touch and cabaret humour. *The Permanent Exhibition Larchivium (library + archives + museum) in Seoul is an experience space within the permanent gallery that can be entered, ascended, and engaged with by exhibition goers.
LOUIS VUITTON
CHLOÉ
CONCEPT larchivium
COLLECTOR MANIA ARCHIVES OF STORYTELLING
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FINELY DETAILED
VINYL-RETRO VINTAGE
SENSUAL
EXOTIC MEMORIES
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CONCEPT
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TOKYO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 4
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TOKYO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 5
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MATERIALS
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TOKYO
TROMPE L’OEIL
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TOKYO
TA.GO
SANTONI 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 9
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STREET FASHION - PARIS
INTELLECTUAL
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EXPOPEL CONCERIA NUVOLARI
DOLMEN
SHOP WINDOW - LA TENDA MILANO
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STREET FASHION - FLORENCE 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 12
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Finishing by TFL CARBIPEL
INTELLECTUAL
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
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TOKYO TOKYO Finishing by TFL
OVERWHELMED
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Finishing by KENDA FARBEN
Finishing by KENDA FARBEN
STREET FASHION - MILAN
EL CHARK
80’S GLAM
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MIU MIU 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 17
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SCHMID MIU MIU
ITALHIDE
80’S GLAM
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STREET FASHION - PARIS
STREET FASHION - PARIS
ROBERTO CAVALLI
TA.GO
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LONDON
STREET FASHION - PARIS
RETRO AVANT-GARDE
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TA.GO TA.GO
TA.GO
STREET FASHION - MILAN
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LOUIS VUITTON
NAPPA FEEL
CORONET
RATIO ET MOTUS
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STREET FASHION - MILAN
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
FLASHBACK FAIR
EMBOSSED STRUCTURED
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DIAS RUIVO
DIMAR CONCERIA
STREET FASHION - MILAN
STREET FASHION - MILAN
TAILORING CLASSIC
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STREET FASHION - MILAN
STREET FASHION - MILAN
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
WEST SIGNATURE
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TA.GO Finishing by TFL
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
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STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
SEVERE LINES
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BALLANZA
TOPAOC
MPG INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
SCHMID
SUBTLE
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TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
PELLAMI DUE C
STREET FASHION - MILAN
CASADEI
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MOIOI
MELTED CLASSICS
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STREET FASHION - FLORENCE NASTROTEX
SCHMID
SACAI
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STREET FASHION - PARIS
CARBIPEL
BRITISH EXOTICS
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STREET FASHION - PARIS
CARBIPEL
CARBIPEL
CORONET
N° 21
GAMAR ITALIA
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BERGDORF GOODMAN - NEW YORK
ROYAL COUNTRY
VETRERIE DI EMPOLI
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CARBIPEL
C.D.C.
CHLOÉ
CARBIPEL
TECNO MINUTERIE
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SONIA RYKIEL
TARTANS
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SCHMID
LANZI NASTRIFICIO
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
RIFRA NASTRI
NASTROTEX
LOEWE
TARTANS
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SCHMID
LANZI NASTRIFICIO
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
TRACES
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CARBIPEL TA.GO VICENZA PELLI 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 45
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CHIMONT INTERNATIONAL
ROBOTTI PELLICCERIE
INDUSTRIE PELLAMI
FUR ALTERATIONS
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LEONHARD HOFSTETTER PELZ UND DESIGN
ISSEY MIYAKE
FACETASM
STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
ELIE SAAB TA.GO
NORDIC BREEZE
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EXPOPEL EXPOPEL
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STREET FASHION - FLORENCE NADA DEBS
40’S VELVETY AND FUR
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MOIOI B.G. PELLAMI
MOSCHINO
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JUNKO SHIMADA CURTIDOS REQUENA AGARTIOGLU
PHYTOMORPHIC
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Lasered by RAMPONI ANDREW GN
ANDREW GN TOKYO
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CARVEN 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 54
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CARBIPEL
STREET FASHION - PARIS
DECORATIVISM
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STREET FASHION - FLORENCE
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DILEATHER
MIU MIU
BUBBLING
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INTARSIA RELIEFS
TOKYO
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TA.GO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 59
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CERSAIE 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 60
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STREET FASHION - PARIS Finishing by TFL
INTARSIA RELIEFS
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