Arsutoria Trends Guide AW 2020/21 by edizioniaf

slow core

larchivium

trends guide

c_y_v_a virtual adventure

fall winter 2020/2021

01_COVER_AW_2020-21.indd 3

03/05/19 14:58

01_COVER_AW_2020-21.indd 4

03/05/19 14:58

INSPIRATION THE POWER OF CURIOSITIES AND CONCEPTS

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 5

03/05/19 15:00

ART METAPHYSICAL

ARS

META

PHYSICAL

ART

BEYOND

NATURE

THE ART OF MAKING THINGS BEYOND NATURE AND ITS ENVIRONMENT. RESHAPE THE URBANITY THROUGHOUT ART. BEYOND ART. RECREATE THE IRREALITY OF NATURE BY SURREAL ELEMENTS WHICH ENHANCE A METHAPHYSICAL EXPERIENCE.

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 6

07/05/19 11:54

concept An overview of contemporary aesthetics that reflects the moods of the new generation. Add the greek prefix “meta” (beyond) to the base “physical” (nature), and you get metaphysical — almost a synonym to the latin-based word “supernatural.” Both concern phenomena that are outside everyday real life.

Basic products are interpreted with different shades of meanings. The concept of materials and surfaces evolution is based on different combination, in relation with the character of humans. Artificial, repurposed,

modified, recreated, evolved. The innovation behind each human creation. “Metaphysics” dealt with more abstract questions about the reality beyond what we perceive with our senses. The ‘fil rouge’ is the meaning of each material’s content. We don’t change the appearance because we are working on the content and the context. We modify the aesthetic because the content is made by artificial components. The art of making things beyond nature and its environment, technological made. Reshape the urbanity throughout art beyond art. Because art is the illusion that became reality. Recreate the irreality of nature by surreal elements which enhance a metaphysical experience. Between minimalism and surrealism, looking to find the essential flair. Minimalism is the new classicism. Fantasy is the new eclecticism. Simplicity can be surreal.

02_INSPIRATION.indd 7

03/05/19 15:02

MILANO DESIGN WEEK

ART METAPHYSICAL

02_INSPIRATION.indd 8

03/05/19 15:02

MILANO DESIGN WEEK 02_INSPIRATION.indd 9

03/05/19 15:02

ART VERONA

ART METAPHYSICAL

02_INSPIRATION.indd 10

03/05/19 15:02

BITOSSI 02_INSPIRATION.indd 11

03/05/19 15:02

02_INSPIRATION.indd 12

03/05/19 15:02

COLORS

03_Recap_Colori.indd 15

03/05/19 15:03

03_Recap_Colori.indd 16

03/05/19 15:03

colors LARCHIVIUM Rich intense Elegant and sophisticated shades, such as cream, dusty rose, powder are combined with brown and severe blue hues, very deep and natural. A classic palette that provides creative expressions on the finished product. SLOW CORE Slow and dry Toned down and shaded. Proposals of military green expand towards soiled chrome grey tones. Cold smoked brown colors are combined with vintage american red, taupe and faded yellow. C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE Urban play tech Purple, rosy, fuchsia red, with urban blue tones enrich a high tech palette. Black and grey are coloured with reflections that turn them into blue-red shades. Greenish yellow and smoke grey blue color are unusual accents.

03_Recap_Colori.indd 17

03/05/19 15:03

PANTONE® 19-4029 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4914 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1619 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1862 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1856 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1461 TCX

PANTONE® 15-0955 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1422 TCX

PANTONE® 14-1307 TCX

PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE, Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013 The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not match PANTONE® -identified textile solid COLOUR standard. Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate COLOUR standards

PANTONE® 13-1025 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 18

03/05/19 15:03

HERMÈS CARRÈ CLUB

RICH INTENSE

03_Recap_Colori.indd 19

03/05/19 15:03

RICH INTENSE COLOR RECAP NEUTRALS

PANTONE® 14-1307 TCX

PANTONE® 13-1025 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1422 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1619 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4914 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1461 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1856 TCX

BASICS

PANTONE® 19-4029 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0862 TCX

ACCENTS

PANTONE®15-0955 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 20

03/05/19 15:03

COLOR COMBINATION

03_Recap_Colori.indd 21

03/05/19 15:04

PANTONE® 19-0822 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1840 TCX

PANTONE® 18-0930 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4217 TCX

PANTONE® 17-4021 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1502 TCX

PANTONE® 14-3903 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4002 TCX

PANTONE® 13-4108 TCX

PANTONE® 11-0609 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 22

03/05/19 15:04

SLOW AND DRY

03_Recap_Colori.indd 23

03/05/19 15:04

SLOW AND DRY COLOR RECAP NEUTRALS

PANTONE® 14-4002 TCX

PANTONE® 14-3903 TCX

PANTONE® 13-4108 TCX

BASIC

PANTONE® 19-08 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4217 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4103 TCX

PANTONE® 17-4021 TCX

ACCENTS

PANTONE® 19-1840 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 24

PANTONE® 18-0930 TCX

PANTONE® 11-6009 TCX

03/05/19 15:04

COLOR COMBINATION

03_Recap_Colori.indd 25

03/05/19 15:04

PANTONE® 18-4012 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3919 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3951 TCX

PANTONE® 18-2328 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4043 TCX

PANTONE® 17-3313 TCX

PANTONE® 13-0650 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4307 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4103 TCX

PANTONE® 11-0601 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 26

03/05/19 15:04

FRANCES GOODMAN

URBAN PLAY TECH

03_Recap_Colori.indd 27

03/05/19 15:04

URBAN PLAY TECH COLOR RECAP NEUTRALS

PANTONE® 11-0601 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4307 TCX

PANTONE® 17-3313 TCX

BASIC

PANTONE® 18-4012 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3919 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4103 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3951 TCX

ACCENTS

PANTONE® 13-0650 TCX

03_Recap_Colori.indd 28

PANTONE® 18-2328 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4043 TCX

03/05/19 15:04

COLOR COMBINATION

03_Recap_Colori.indd 29

03/05/19 15:04

03_Recap_Colori.indd 30

03/05/19 15:04

#HASHTAG

04_Hashtag.indd 29

03/05/19 15:07

SHOE BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 30

Black Dioniso Luca Berioli is the designer of the Company. All his work is characterized by his innate and detached sense of synthesis in transforming the beauty into poetic creations, from separated art to matter. Depicting different worlds and realities through games of fabrics and jewel details, while keeping a single identity, which makes Black Dioniso man or woman recognizable in every case. Luca merges emotions, music, poetry and painting, giving life to shoes loaded with pathos.

03/05/19 15:07

From sculptures to collages, fashion to jewelry, his passion lies in the process of transforming an already existing object into something new. Philip Karto products are handcrafted in his Miami-based atelier by expert artisans. And every item is one-of-akind from the beginning. Vintage luxury handbags are completely taken apart, hand painted, and re-assembled with suede handles, exotic leather and silver 925 details. https://philipkarto.com

04_Hashtag.indd 31

ARTISTIC CUSTOMIZATION

Philip Karto

07/05/19 12:02

TRAVEL BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 32

Rimowa teams up with l.A. artist Alex Israel on new suitcases Rimowa revealed an exciting partnership with contemporary artist Alex Israel. Launched at the Frieze Art Fair in Los Angeles, the luggage features an Instagram-worthy gradient design that draws inspiration from the beautiful sunsets of the West Coast city. The collaboration is available in two different styles, including one thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s predominantly covered in flamingo-pink fading to sky-blue, and another featuring a mostly blue makeup with subtle hints of the rosy hue. https://www.rimowa.com

03/05/19 15:07

Universal Everything is a global collective of designers, animators, musicians and developers, exploring human expression and collaboration using emerging display technologies. They create video artworks for innovative structures, invent immersive multi-sensory experiences, and direct new forms of moving image for the screens of the future. https://universaleverything.com

04_Hashtag.indd 33

ARTISTIC LAB

Universal Everything Studio

03/05/19 15:07

SHOE BRAND

R13 Denim

04_Hashtag.indd 34

R13, an elevated denimdriven brand, debuted in the fall of 2009 in New York City. Its unique and subtle design details are heavily influenced by authentic american traditions and history. The luxury brand delivers categories of denim and leather accessories, both of which age with grace, taking on the soul of its wearer and oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love for it multiplies with time and usage. It is rugged yet chic, yet remaining unpretentious and genuine.

03/05/19 15:07

After spotlighting functional and lightweight pieces for Spring/Summer 2019, Stone Island has dropped off its latest round of pieces from the assortment. The Italian brand’s new releases utilize a special thermosensitive material, designed with an abstract print that morphs with its environment in order to create an optical illusion. The collection also incorporates a variety of other practical details, including a detachable hood on the parka, as well as a two-in-one jacket that can turn into a vest. https://www.stoneisland.com

04_Hashtag.indd 35

FASHION BRAND

Stone Island SS19 heat reactive fabric

03/05/19 15:07

SHOE BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 36

RBRSL Continual experimentation is in the DNA of RBRSL_Rubber Soul which aims to create unique products with special workmanship, design, materials, applications and treatments. Each product is made entirely in Italy by expert hands and at the end of the production process each one is strictly and progressively numbered. A unique style to maintain and develop unique products that convey interest and excitement but at the same time guarantees function and use over time while remaining special.

03/05/19 15:07

Originally opened in Newcastle before branching out into Glasgow, END. finally arrived in London with a new megastore in 2018. The huge space in Soho is roughly split into three areas, with brands including Aimé Leon Dore, Our Legacy and Acne Studios dominating the ground floor. The first floor then features a sneaker space and a more high-end area. Despite only opening in October 2018, the store has already become one of London’s streetwear standouts. https://www.endclothing.com

04_Hashtag.indd 37

RETAIL BRAND

END.

03/05/19 15:07

INNOVATION BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 38

Innovative use of leather The material is breaking free from its traditional forms and taking over all kinds of spaces and objects, amazing us with its bold spirit, like the original Nespresso machine covered in leather with straight lines or diamond quilt pattern, or a luxury wall mirror. https://mom.maison-objet.com

03/05/19 15:07

At Touch!, four Japanese designers specialized in the craftsmanship of white leather - a millennial technique, practiced only in the area of Himeji for the purity of local water - present a selection of items designed for Pitti Uomo 95. Satoshi Ezaki, Kozaburo Akasaka, Ryuki Yamaka, Ryo Midorikawa, respectively brand designers: ED ROBERT JUDSON, KOZABURO, MARY AL TERNA and MIDORIKAWA RYO belong to the same generation and have grown under a common vision of design but produce in different ways. https://www.pittimmagine.com

04_Hashtag.indd 39

SPECIAL PROJECT

The Japanese White Leather Project

03/05/19 15:07

DIGITAL PLATFORM 04_Hashtag.indd 40

THE MODIST A first of its kind, luxury style destination dedicated to dressing modestly. More than just a digital platform, THE MODIST is a philosophy for style and being, home to a carefully curated edit of leading fashion brands and stylishly thought-provoking editorial. A fresh take on contemporary fashion, styled to not only respect style choices but to celebrate them. https://www.themodist.com

03/05/19 15:07

After graduating from Parsons The New School of Design, Gelareh spent time working at French fashion house Chanel, before founding her namesake collection of colorful handbags in 2013. Nylon Magazine called her “the designer behind the coolest clutches in the world”. Her collection has quickly grown into a cult and is sold exclusively at top retailers worldwide and directly through her store, which also serves as a cultural hub and hangout spot to Miami’s young creatives.

04_Hashtag.indd 41

BAG BRAND

Gelareh Mizrahi

03/05/19 15:07

SHOE BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 42

Pedder Red Pedder Red is a contemporary footwear brand that offers refined and effortless designs with a modern touch. The brand creates covetable products with high quality materials combined with an attention to detail.

03/05/19 15:07

Mercedes Castillo launched her brand in 2017 and designs beautifully crafted shoes and accessories. Born in Spain, Mercedes studied design and launched her career in Milan. Now based in New York, she designs collections that balance time honored craftsmanship with a unique, contemporary vision. Hallmarks of her designs include sculptural shapes with perfectly refined lines, slightly exaggerated proportions, adventurous colors, and handcrafted details.

04_Hashtag.indd 43

SHOE BRAND

Mercedes Castillo

03/05/19 15:07

RETAIL BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 44

LN-CC Historically, the store was with appointment only, although walk-ins are now welcome. Once inside the store, though, visitors are greeted by an unexpected interior constructed by set designer Gary Card. The space features an exhibition area, library, record store and bar. The store itself stocks a range of emerging London designers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; think Paria Farzaneh and Story MFG. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; alongside established names including Gucci, Burberry and Jil Sander. https://www.ln-cc.com

07/05/19 12:04

Diego Vanassibara (DV) is from the countryside of South Brazil. He moved to England at the age of 22 after studying architecture at his native country. In London, he trained at the prestigious Cordwainerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s college of footwear and in 2013 the label that bears his name was launched DVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective on design is a distinct one: a juxtaposition of references that include the urban, architecture, history and a firm foot in nature.

04_Hashtag.indd 45

SHOE BRAND

Diego Vanassibara

07/05/19 12:04

FASHION BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 46

Solid Homme Founded in 1988, Solid Homme is a global contemporary menswear brand known for its exceptional quality, luxurious touch, minimal and distinctive designs. Modern design with an urban appeal makes Solid Homme a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;go toâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for style and wearability.

03/05/19 15:07

George Cox combines originality and authenticity with design excellence, independent creativity and great British craftsmanship. With deep pop culture roots, George Cox footwear has been an indispensable element in the look of subcultures for decades, from Teds and Rockers to Punks, Rockabillies and RetroFuturists; after all, the company revolutionized the visual identity of youth by introducing the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first creeper nearly 70 years ago.

04_Hashtag.indd 47

SHOE BRAND

George Cox

03/05/19 15:07

ARCHITECTURE 04_Hashtag.indd 48

Royal Ontario Museum Founded in 1914, the Royal Ontario Museum showcases art, culture and nature from around the world and across the ages. Among the top 10 cultural institutions in North America, Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest and most comprehensive museum is home to a world-class collection of 13 million artworks, cultural objects and natural history specimens. The ROM plays a vital role in advancing our understanding of the artistic, cultural and natural world. It combines original heritage architecture with the contemporary one. https://www.rom.on.ca

03/05/19 15:07

NEOUS is for the modern realist. Simple but radical in concept and form, NEOUS shoes are made with function, quality, price and ease considered first. NEOUS shoes are designed to fit seamlessly into the modern womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life. Crafted on Italian lasts, shoes are comfortable, with architecturally sound block heels and easy elevations. An uncompromising approach to the quality of materials used will satisfy the needs of the woman who values practicality and provenance as well as style.

04_Hashtag.indd 49

SHOE BRAND

Neous

03/05/19 15:07

BAG BRAND 04_Hashtag.indd 50

Staud In 2015, Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto co-founded the LA-based brand upon the idea that fashion shouldn’t just empower women — it should be accessible, too. But at the heart of STAUD is design. A scrupulous attention to detail, a natural opposition to the typical, and a feminine aura that’s equal parts seductive and self-governing.

03/05/19 15:07

Yuzefiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinct visual DNA is the result of founder Naza Yousefiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive industry experience and cross-disciplinary approach to design. Launched in 2016, Naza was inspired by forms and craftsmanship knowhow borrowed from the world of interiors and artefacts. Meticulously developed and handcrafted in London, the instantly recognizable styles have been a cult success with press and influencers worldwide.

04_Hashtag.indd 51

BAG BRAND

Yuzefi

03/05/19 15:07

SHOE DESIGNER 04_Hashtag.indd 52

Helen Kirkum After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2016 she won both the Accessories award and the Vogue Talents Award. Helen has caught all the right eyes with her footwear made from pieces of recycled trainers investigating the extremities of structure and texture. Helenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work is a spontaneous reaction to society, conceptualizing our connections with commerce and materiality through textures, graphics and silhouette. www.helenkirkum.com

03/05/19 15:07

COMPANION, a 121-foot-long inflatable sculpture by street artist KAWS, launched at the end of March at Victoria Harbour in Hong Kong. The reclined, monochrome figure is the largest to date for the American artist. The figure was purposefully designed to be in a peaceful repose, its crossed-out eyes gazing at the sky above. “I was thinking of all the tension in the world, and I wanted to create work that would make people think about relaxing,” KAWS recently told. https://kawsone.com

04_Hashtag.indd 53

ART

Kaws Floats a massive inflatable sculpture in Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour

03/05/19 15:08

BAG BRAND

Complét

04_Hashtag.indd 54

Complét is a contemporary accessories brand designed in Tel Aviv and made in Italy. The brand prides itself on using high-quality Italian leathers produced by artisans in Northern Italy. Complét derives from the term “set complet” used in the 1960’s to market all-inclusive décor items for homes. Translated to the modern day, Complét accessories are the final touches on a woman’s wardrobe. Founded by three friends, the brand excels in innovative silhouettes, strong colors and unique details.

03/05/19 15:08

Danse Lente is a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessories label specializing in handbags and small leather goods, based in London. Each piece is conceived in depth in order to create a purpose-built product that will also create a unique experience to its predecessor. There is a playful and curious element to each design that appeals to a wide range of audiences. Danse Lente, which means Slow Dance in French, focuses on high quality leather goods inspired by contemporary aesthetics and modern architecture.

04_Hashtag.indd 55

BAG BRAND

Danse Lente

03/05/19 15:08

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 44

03/05/19 15:00

ANALYSIS LOOK BACK TO LOOK FORWARD

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 43

03/05/19 15:00

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 44

03/05/19 15:00

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE... ...TO PRESENT MOOD NOW ON CATWALKS

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 45

03/05/19 15:14

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

MULTI CHECKS LARGE, SMALL, COLORFUL, BUT ALWAYS INTERTWINED AND OVERLAPPING FRAMEWORKS FROM THE MOST CLASSIC COLLEGIAL TO THE MOST IRREVERENT PUNK ONES. A LOT OF COLOR FOR A THOUSAND UNPREDICTABLE AND EXPERIMENTAL AVANT-GARDE DECLINATIONS.

1959

ARSUTORIA N.47

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 46

03/05/19 17:06

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 47

...TO PRESENT MOOD

ANGEL CHEN

MINISTRY OF UPHOLSTERY

03/05/19 15:14

• NOW ON CATWALKS • MULTI CHECKS PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 48

BURBERRY

03/05/19 15:14

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 49

A.W.A.K.E. MODE

AALTO

CHRISTIAN DIOR

HENRIK VIBSKOV

OFF-WHITE

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

03/05/19 15:14

ANDREA POMPILIO

CHRISTIAN DIOR

MULTI CHECKS

CHRISTIAN DIOR

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

AALTO

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 50

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

03/05/19 15:15

ANGEL CHEN

CHRISTIAN DIOR

THOM BROWNE

VERSACE

VICTORIA BECKHAM

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 51

03/05/19 15:15

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

ANIMALIER ANIMAL PRINTS IN ALL VERSIONS, MALE AND FEMALE. SINCE ALWAYS A TIMELESS EVERGREEN OF FASHION. FROM THE 40S AS A SYNONYM OF CLASS AND EXTREME ELEGANCE, TO THE 80S AND 90S IN ITS MOST AGGRESSIVE AND PROVOCATIVE VERSIONS AS A SYNONYM OF OPULENCE TO THE MOST DARING AND GLAMOROUS VERSIONS OF OUR DAYS.

1953

ARSUTORIA N. 28

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 52

03/05/19 15:15

LAMONTI ANDREW GN

LAMONTI

KATE SPADE NEW YORK

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 53

...TO PRESENT MOOD

HORCHOW

03/05/19 15:15

• NOW ON CATWALKS • ANIMALIER MAX MARA

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 54

DIOR HOMME

03/05/19 15:15

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 55

CELINE

CIVIDINI

ZIMMERMANN

MSGM

KATE SPADE NEW YORK

DOLCE & GABBANA

03/05/19 15:15

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE

JW ANDERSON

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

MARNI

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 56

VICTORIA BECKHAM

03/05/19 15:15

TOD’S

ANIMALIER

TOD’S

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

KATE SPADE NEW YORK

LOUIS VUITTON

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 57

PACO RABANNE

SACAI

BURBERRY

03/05/19 15:15

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

CHAINS IN THE SPOTLIGHT CHAINS ARE USED AS JEWELS, BUT ALSO APPLIED ON CLOTHES, BAGS AND SHOES. THEY ARE MADE OF BRASS, PLASTIC FINISHED AS METALS, EMBROIDERED OR PRINTED. THE FINAL EFFECT IS NOT ABOUT OF BEING AN ACCESSORY, BUT ITS PRECIOUS PROTAGONISTS.

1949

ARSUTORIA N. 11

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 58

03/05/19 15:15

BALMAIN

C.D.C.

SEO YOUNG DEOK

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 59

...TO PRESENT MOOD

BALMAIN

03/05/19 15:16

• NOW ON CATWALKS • CHAINS IN THE SPOTLIGHT BALMAIN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 60

ÉTUDES

03/05/19 15:16

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 61

BALMAIN

VICTORIA BECKHAM

MARNI

VERSACE

TOM FORD

VALENTINO

03/05/19 15:16

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 62

VERSACE

TOM FORD

AU197SM

BALMAIN

JW ANDERSON

LOUIS VUITTON

03/05/19 15:16

TOD’S

GUCCI

CHAINS IN THE SPOTLIGHT

BALMAIN

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

TOD’S

LOUIS VUITTON

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 63

ACNE STUDIOS

03/05/19 15:16

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

BOLD COLORS AN EXPLOSION OF COLORS WHERE EVERYONE MUST SHINE. ALL SHADES MUST REFLECT THE BRIGHTEST COLORS OF THE PALETTE. EVEN BETTER IF THEY ARE DETAILS, PART OF THE OUTFIT, BAGS OR SHOES. LIKE NEON LIGHTS THAT SWITCH ON BY WEARING THEM.

1995

ARSUTORIA N. 242

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 64

03/05/19 17:07

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 65

...TO PRESENT MOOD

LOUIS VUITTON

LUCIO FONTANA

MARKU BENESCH

03/05/19 15:16

• NOW ON CATWALKS • BOLD COLORS MUGLER

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 66

ISSEY MIYAKE

03/05/19 15:16

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 67

BERLUTI

GCDS

LOUIS VUITTON

GCDS

SAINT LAURENT

VERSACE

03/05/19 15:16

BALENCIAGA

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

KENZO

LOUIS VUITTON

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 68

MAX MARA

03/05/19 15:16

MUGLER

MAISON MARGIELA

BOLD COLORS

OFF-WHITE

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

LOUIS VUITTON

VERSACE

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 69

PRADA

VICTORIA BECKHAM

03/05/19 15:16

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

FLARE HELL THIS HEEL WITH CLEAR, LINEAR AND STRONG LINES IS BUILT TO BE A DESIGN OBJECT. IT IS MADE IN DIFFERENT HEIGHTS FOR BOLD AND DECISIVE BOOTS AND SANDALS.

1990

ARSUTORIA N. 206

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 70

03/05/19 15:16

ARTHUR ARBESSER

MUGLER

FLARE HELL

KENZO

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

ALBERTA FERRETTI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 71

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

03/05/19 15:16

FROM ARSUTORIA ARCHIVE...

EXTREME SHAPE BAGS CLUTCH BAGS, SHOULDER OR EXAGGERATEDLY RECTANGULAR BAGS TO BE CARRIED BY HAND. THEY CAN HAVE HORIZONTALLY OR VERTICALLY HANGING SHAPES, BUT THE EFFECT REMAINS EXUBERANT AND UNEXPECTED.

1974

ARPEL N. 40

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 72

03/05/19 15:17

JIL SANDER

NINA RICCI

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 73

• NOW ON CATWALKS • EXTREME SHAPE BAGS

ANTEPRIMA

GABRIELE COLANGELO

JIL SANDER

03/05/19 15:17

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 74

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 75

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

BIKER THE BIKER STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A HYMN TO FREEDOM, NON-CONFORMISM AND REBELLION. ITS INGREDIENTS ARE PRECISE AND ALWAYS WELL DEFINED. THE ROCK AND BOLD ATTITUDE CAN ALSO BE CLASSIC IF REINTERPRETED IN A CONTEMPORARY KEY.

BOTTEGA VENETA

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 76

BOTTEGA VENETA

03/05/19 15:17

BALENCIAGA

• HIGHLIGHTS •

BALENCIAGA

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 77

BOTTEGA VENETA

CHLOÉ

LEMAIRE

REDEMPTION

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

OVER KNEE BOOTS CALLED CUISSARDES, THEY WERE CREATED IN THE XIV CENTURY TO PROTECT THE MUSKETEERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CUISSES AND ARE TODAY THE REAL MUSTHAVE OF SHOES. THESE LONG, SOMETIMES VERY LONG, BOOTS ARE VERY POPULAR BECAUSE THEY ARE OFTEN BOLD, PROVOCATIVE AND EXAGGERATED.

CELINE

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 78

MAX MARA

03/05/19 15:17

MUGLER

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 79

• HIGHLIGHTS •

CELINE

STELLA McCARTNEY

COURRÈGES

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

OVER VOLUME BOOTS BOOTS AND ANKLE BOOTS WITH NEW VOLUME GIVE FREE SPACE TO CREATIVITY. THEY CAN HAVE FLAT, MEDIUM AND HIGH HEEL WHILE THE LAST MAY HAVE ROUND, SQUARED OR POINTED TOE, BUT ALWAYS WITH AN EXAGGERATED WIDTH ON THE ANKLE AND LEG.

ISABEL MARANT

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 80

03/05/19 15:17

COURRÈGES

• HIGHLIGHTS •

BEN TAVERNITI UNRAVEL PROJECT

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 81

ISABEL MARANT

MARNI

LOUIS VUITTON

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

03/05/19 15:17

ISABEL MARANT

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 82

Y/PROJECT

03/05/19 15:17

VICTORIA BECKHAM

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 83

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ACNE STUDIOS

SAINT LAURENT

ANNAKIKI

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

ROCK EMBELLISHMENT HARD ROCK/PUNK STYLE FOR THIS DEFINITELY BOLD TREND. BAGS AND SHOES ARE FILLED WITH METALLIC DECORATIONS: NAILS, STUDS, EYELETS, CHAINS AND PIERCINGS TO GIVE LIGHT AND GLAMOUR TO DARK-TONED LEATHERS.

BALMAIN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 84

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

03/05/19 15:17

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 85

BALMAIN

GUCCI

SAINT LAURENT

03/05/19 15:17

BALMAIN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 86

SAINT LAURENT

03/05/19 15:17

CÉDRIC CHARLIER

LOUIS VUITTON

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 87

ROCK EMBELLISHMENT • HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

BALMAIN

ISABEL MARANT

MARNI

03/05/19 15:17

HIGHLIGHTS

UPPER RUBBER DETAIL

RUBBER BOTTOMS RISE AND EMBRACE PART OF THE UPPER. NOT ONLY FOR SPORTY SNEAKERS AND BOOTS, BUT ALSO FOR PUMPS AND SHOES WITH A MORE CLASSIC AND ELEGANT LOOK.

RALPH LAUREN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 88

BURBERRY

03/05/19 15:18

BURBERRY

JACQUEMUS

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 89

BURBERRY

• HIGHLIGHTS •

BURBERRY

DRIES VAN NOTEN

TOD’S

03/05/19 15:18

HIGHLIGHTS

SNEAKER BOOT ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOT JUST SNEAKERS OR JUST BOOTS WITH RUBBER BOTTOMS, BUT A SUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENT FOR A HYBRID SHOE WITH A STRONG CONNOTATION. DARING AND BOLD IN ALL THEIR VARIATIONS.

MIU MIU

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 90

PRADA

03/05/19 15:18

ANGEL CHEN

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 91

MIU MIU

MSGM

PRADA

STELLA McCARTNEY

03/05/19 15:18

HIGHLIGHTS

INFLATED THESE BAGS CAN BE BUILT WITH VARIOUS SUPPORTS, FROM THE MOST SPORTING TO THE MOST CLASSIC ONES, FOR MAN OR WOMAN VERSIONS, BUT THE EFFECT MUST ALWAYS BE TO CONVEY SOFTNESS, LIGHTNESS AND SMOOTHNESS.

ANGEL CHEN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 92

OFF-WHITE

07/05/19 12:07

FENDI

• HIGHLIGHTS •

BOTTEGA VENETA

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 93

DRIES VAN NOTEN

MAISON MARGIELA

OFF-WHITE

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

03/05/19 15:18

HIGHLIGHTS

MAN BEAUTY BAG THE TRADITIONAL TRAVEL BEAUTY TURNS INTO A CULT BAG FOR MEN. THEY ARE CARRIED BY HAND OR WORN CROSSOVER. THEY CAN BE IN LEATHER OR IN A WASHABLE FABRIC, BUT IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE STRUCTURE RECALLS A LUGGAGE ITEM: A LARGE LID OR A DEEP OPENING ALLOWS PRACTICAL ACCESS TO THE INSIDE.

BERLUTI

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 94

DIOR HOMME

03/05/19 15:18

HERMÈS

• HIGHLIGHTS •

DIOR HOMME

JIL SANDER

LOUIS VUITTON

PROENZA SCHOULER

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 95

03/05/19 15:18

HIGHLIGHTS

FUZZY FEELINGS SOMETIMES FUR SOMETIMES WOOL, BUT THE EFFECT IS ALWAYS OF SOMETHING SOFT AND WARM LIKE A TEDDY BEAR.

OFF-WHITE

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 96

ANGEL CHEN

03/05/19 15:18

FENDI

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ANGEL CHEN

05_Analisi_Passato_Presente.indd 97

FENDI

HERMÈS

MAX MARA

OFF-WHITE

03/05/19 15:18

01_COVER_AW_2020-21.indd 4

03/05/19 14:58

RESEARCH MATERIALS THAT MATTER

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 13

03/05/19 15:00

KEY WORDS LARCHIVIUM COLLECTOR MANIA

C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE

ARCHIVES OF STORYTELLING

NETFLIX MOVIE TRAVEL

MINIMALISM AS NEW CLASSICISM

FINELY DETAILED

URBAN VIRTUALITY

SURREAL SIMPLICITY

SENSUAL

ART INSTALLATION

SLOW LIVING

PARIS 1984 / PARIS, TEXAS

GLAM TECH

SOFT CORE

70’S PLASTIC IN LOS ANGELES

MIXED MEDIA

SOFT MASCULINITY

INTERGALACTIC TRAVELS

SOFT FEMININITY

ROCKABILLY FROM TOKYO TO LOS ANGELES

COLLISION OF HUMANS AND HUMANOIDS

#REMAKE

VINYL-RETRO VINTAGE

MOTOR RACING CULTURE

EXOTIC MEMORIES

90’S POST-PUNK ATTITUDE

AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN SARTORIAL FILTER

STRONG TAILORING PROPOSITION

HYPER TECHNO

CLEAN AND RUSTIC

FINISHINGS

BASIC AND ORGANIC

360° ACTIONS

SLOW COUNTRY

UPCYCLING 5.0

TONED DOWN OUTDOOR

EXPERIMENTAL

REFRESHING SEMPLICITY

VINTAGE SURREAL REMIX HENNA DECORATIONS TROMPE L’OEIL FORNASETTI

SLOW CORE

#USETHEEXISTING

SOPHISTICATED NORMCORE GRUNGY VIBE

00a_APERTURE_SEZIONI.indd 14

03/05/19 15:00

concept larchivium The material texture of rich and very light leathers, such as calf, semi aniline and vegetable, is enhanced by low reliefs. Surface techniques are synonymous with depth, to enhance decorative motifs, thicknesses and style. The look of the most sophisticated leathers for semirigid bags and glossy matt boots will be smooth, clean and thin. Trompe l’oeil effects made with metallic membranes are enriched with digitally hand-painted effects. Bubbles and flowers are embroidered on easily moulded lamb skins. Fur effects are also the excuse to find a new material interpretation. Made of yarns braided with leather strips, furs display various lengths and are coupled with thin leather layers in sheepskin version or double face effect fur. Tartan and check patterns on fabric are a classic that is renewed with new finishes, because finishings are often slippery, waxed and semi-opaque, craquelé. Interesting veins on flesh splits let you catch a sight of two-tones on both sides. Metal details are dark, blackened, almost tone on tone with brown ebony colours or darkened mahogany.

slow core Leathers look like natural regenerated materials. Split leather and sheepskin, buffalo and calf leather with rough, wild, nomadic, crafted treatments. Braidings and scratchings will be very important to enhance the veins on leathers. Classic skins have very soft and well-blended fillings and marbled effects. Impeccably finished Nappa and smooth leathers are processed with puffed up paddings for minimal and very neat models. Fabrics such as felt and regenerated compounds have mélange, poorly finished and compact aspects. Soft and smooth coats and finishes ennoble fibres and leathers. Metal fittings are clean, waxed and lacquered, without oversights.

00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 101

07/05/19 12:14

concept c_y_v_a virtual adventure The essence of the matter is the triumph of the new synthetic, artificial, recycled, technological material with a thick patina of vinyl, liquid paint, glaze. There will be more fabrics than leathers, but fabrics that do not resemble themselves, in the usual sense of the term. Textile compounds take their place in the Olympus of the most innovative materials, made with agglomerates of new consistencies and textures. The shoe will be special because its production process starts from the raw material, as does the bag. Next-gen materials with brand new grain are being created. They are gummy and slippery, dusty and dry, soft and in relief. Material effects lend themselves to double-sided volumes. Couplings and paddings offer new assemblies, with air inside, silicone and different foam compounds. Creasings and layerings are often optical effects. Metal fittings as well as soles come from upcycling compounds, as do small accessories. The laser will engrave everything, also using complex techniques that print and drill on extreme angles. The digital artisan uses special machinery also for processes, which become part of the final result.

00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 102

03/05/19 15:08

larchivium 00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 103

03/05/19 15:09

00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 104

03/05/19 15:09

larchivium

Collector mania Collector mania becomes one of the most current obsessions. Creating and collecting, ideas, styles, objects, memories, thoughts and patterns that tell absurd and unforgettable stories. A new aesthetic of the beauty and well crafted, where sensuality is expressed through personalisation. A thousand worlds enclosed in millions of creative globe trotters. Sartorial skills are sought, and eclecticism is expressed. Each brand reviews its own sense of beauty and of special editions. At the base of it lies the ambition to mix cultures from all over to recreate new and more conceptual provocations, as was the Italian current “Metafisica”, which in the early 1900s changed the canons of contemporary art. Fornasetti is the current icon of the visionary collector, where graphics, form and application propose an unreal and metaphysical aesthetic. He is ironic, linear and provocative, fresh and irreverent. Tomo Koizumi recently debuted in New York, offering a mix of styles that unite Capucci, Sailor Moon and Leigh Bowery. Dondoks instead is a shoe brand of a Mexican/French duo, with a Latin touch and cabaret humour. *The Permanent Exhibition Larchivium (library + archives + museum) in Seoul is an experience space within the permanent gallery that can be entered, ascended, and engaged with by exhibition goers.

LOUIS VUITTON

CHLOÉ

CONCEPT larchivium

COLLECTOR MANIA ARCHIVES OF STORYTELLING

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 1

FINELY DETAILED

VINYL-RETRO VINTAGE

SENSUAL

EXOTIC MEMORIES

03/05/19 17:10

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 2

03/05/19 15:19

CONCEPT

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 3

03/05/19 15:19

TOKYO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 4

03/05/19 15:19

TOKYO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 5

03/05/19 15:19

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 6

03/05/19 15:19

MATERIALS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 7

03/05/19 15:19

TOKYO

TROMPE Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OEIL

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 8

03/05/19 15:19

TOKYO

TA.GO

SANTONI 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 9

03/05/19 15:20

STREET FASHION - PARIS

INTELLECTUAL

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 10

03/05/19 15:20

EXPOPEL CONCERIA NUVOLARI

DOLMEN

SHOP WINDOW - LA TENDA MILANO

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 11

03/05/19 15:20

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 12

03/05/19 15:20

Finishing by TFL CARBIPEL

INTELLECTUAL

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 13

03/05/19 15:21

TOKYO TOKYO Finishing by TFL

OVERWHELMED

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 14

03/05/19 17:10

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 15

03/05/19 15:21

Finishing by KENDA FARBEN

STREET FASHION - MILAN

EL CHARK

80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GLAM

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 16

03/05/19 15:22

MIU MIU 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 17

03/05/19 15:22

SCHMID MIU MIU

ITALHIDE

80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GLAM

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 18

03/05/19 15:22

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 19

03/05/19 15:23

STREET FASHION - PARIS

ROBERTO CAVALLI

TA.GO

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 20

LONDON

STREET FASHION - PARIS

RETRO AVANT-GARDE

03/05/19 15:23

TA.GO TA.GO

TA.GO

STREET FASHION - MILAN

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 21

03/05/19 15:24

LOUIS VUITTON

NAPPA FEEL

CORONET

RATIO ET MOTUS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 22

03/05/19 15:24

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 23

03/05/19 15:25

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

FLASHBACK FAIR

EMBOSSED STRUCTURED

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 24

03/05/19 15:25

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 25

03/05/19 15:25

DIAS RUIVO

DIMAR CONCERIA

STREET FASHION - MILAN

TAILORING CLASSIC

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 26

03/05/19 15:26

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 27

03/05/19 15:26

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

WEST SIGNATURE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 28

03/05/19 15:26

TA.GO Finishing by TFL

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 29

03/05/19 15:27

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

SEVERE LINES

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 30

03/05/19 15:27

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 31

03/05/19 15:27

BALLANZA

TOPAOC

MPG INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

SCHMID

SUBTLE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 32

03/05/19 15:27

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

PELLAMI DUE C

STREET FASHION - MILAN

CASADEI

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 33

03/05/19 15:28

MOIOI

MELTED CLASSICS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 34

03/05/19 15:28

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE NASTROTEX

SCHMID

SACAI

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 35

03/05/19 15:29

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 36

STREET FASHION - PARIS

CARBIPEL

BRITISH EXOTICS

03/05/19 15:29

STREET FASHION - PARIS

CARBIPEL

CORONET

NÂ° 21

GAMAR ITALIA

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 37

03/05/19 15:30

BERGDORF GOODMAN - NEW YORK

ROYAL COUNTRY

VETRERIE DI EMPOLI

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 38

03/05/19 15:30

CARBIPEL

C.D.C.

CHLOÃ&#x2030;

CARBIPEL

TECNO MINUTERIE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 39

03/05/19 15:31

SONIA RYKIEL

TARTANS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 40

03/05/19 15:31

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 41

03/05/19 15:31

SCHMID

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

RIFRA NASTRI

NASTROTEX

LOEWE

TARTANS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 42

03/05/19 15:32

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 43

03/05/19 15:32

SCHMID

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

TRACES

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 44

03/05/19 15:33

CARBIPEL TA.GO VICENZA PELLI 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 45

03/05/19 15:33

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 46

CHIMONT INTERNATIONAL

ROBOTTI PELLICCERIE

INDUSTRIE PELLAMI

FUR ALTERATIONS

03/05/19 15:33

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 47

03/05/19 15:34

LEONHARD HOFSTETTER PELZ UND DESIGN

ISSEY MIYAKE

FACETASM

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

ELIE SAAB TA.GO

NORDIC BREEZE

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 48

03/05/19 15:34

EXPOPEL EXPOPEL

STREET FASHION - MILAN 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 49

03/05/19 15:34

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE NADA DEBS

40â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S VELVETY AND FUR

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 50

03/05/19 17:11

MOIOI B.G. PELLAMI

MOSCHINO

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 51

03/05/19 15:35

JUNKO SHIMADA CURTIDOS REQUENA AGARTIOGLU

PHYTOMORPHIC

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 52

03/05/19 15:35

Lasered by RAMPONI ANDREW GN

ANDREW GN TOKYO

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 53

03/05/19 15:35

CARVEN 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 54

03/05/19 15:35

CARBIPEL

STREET FASHION - PARIS

DECORATIVISM

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 55

03/05/19 15:36

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

ARENA ANGELO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 56

03/05/19 15:36

STREET FASHION - PARIS 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 57

DILEATHER

MIU MIU

BUBBLING

03/05/19 15:36

INTARSIA RELIEFS

TOKYO

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 58

03/05/19 15:36

TA.GO 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 59

03/05/19 15:37

CERSAIE 06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 60

03/05/19 15:37

STREET FASHION - PARIS Finishing by TFL

INTARSIA RELIEFS

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 61

03/05/19 15:37

06_ LARCHIVIUM.indd 2

03/05/19 15:19

slow core 00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 145

03/05/19 15:09

00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 146

03/05/19 15:09

slow core The casual world meets Slow Urbanism, creating the rise of the contemporary classic, a new movement that plays between SOFT and SLOW. The slow design is a current that refers to consuming less and better, creating a very contemporary philosophical meaning of the word “essential”. Its sustainable side is an authentic one that traces the history of the product, as it was created by combining functionality with the awareness of lasting. The new basic is evolving, touching the aesthetic line of the surreal and the unprecedented. An apparently simple design, the result of industrial design expertise with a conceptual basis borrowed from “Metafisica” movement, between design, volume and matter, that is similar to Domenico Gnoli from a stylistic point of view and from the Spanish fashion house Loewe, for its craft, artisanal, industrial, functional operation.

MIDNIGHT STUDIOS

CUOIERIA CECCHERINI

CONCEPT slow core

MINIMALISM AS NEW CLASSICISM SURREAL SIMPLICITY

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 103

SLOW LIVING

#REMAKE

SOFT CORE

CLEAN AND RUSTIC

03/05/19 15:22

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 104

03/05/19 15:22

CONCEPT

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 105

03/05/19 15:22

SLOW CORE CONCEPT

SEOUL

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 106

03/05/19 15:22

INSTALLATION

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 107

03/05/19 15:22

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 108

03/05/19 15:22

MATERIALS

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 109

03/05/19 15:22

MIU MIU

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 110

03/05/19 15:22

Finishing by KENDA FARBEN Finishing by KENDA FARBEN TA.GO

BLEACHED

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 111

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

03/05/19 15:23

RIFRA NASTRI

AGED

STREET FASHION - PARIS

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 112

03/05/19 15:23

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE SCHMID STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 113

03/05/19 15:24

M. CROW HASHIMOTO INDUSTRY

DISRUPTED

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 114

03/05/19 15:24

SEOUL

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 115

03/05/19 15:24

TA.GO

MORO MINUTERIE

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

SEOUL

REGENERATED

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 116

03/05/19 15:24

SCHMID CAMPOMAGGI 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 117

03/05/19 15:25

JULIEN DAVID SCHMID 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 118

SLOW COUNTRY 03/05/19 15:25

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 119

03/05/19 15:25

IXOS

SIRTE CONCERIA

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

ARTVERONA

MELANGE

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 120

03/05/19 15:25

TA.GO STREET FASHION - FLORENCE 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 121

03/05/19 15:26

DURABLE

AVOC

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 122

03/05/19 15:26

SIRTE CONCERIA SUNNEI

LANVIN 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 123

03/05/19 15:26

COUNTRYSIDE

KITON

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 124

03/05/19 15:26

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 125

03/05/19 15:27

JULIEN DAVID

STREET FASHION - PARIS

CARBIPEL

TECNO MINUTERIE

STREET FASHION - PARIS

HUNTING

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 126

03/05/19 15:27

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 127

03/05/19 15:27

BRAZILIAN DESIGN

CARBIPEL

NINA CHEZ VALENTINO - NILUFAR

BRAZILIAN DESIGN

DOUBLE SIDE

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 128

03/05/19 15:28

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

CARBIPEL

STREET FASHION - PARIS

NEIGHBORHOOD

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 129

03/05/19 15:28

STREET FASHION - PARIS

HIKING

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

TECNO MINUTERIE

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 130

03/05/19 15:28

IPR

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 131

IVAN BARLAFANTE

SEOUL

03/05/19 15:29

DINGEUNDURSACHEN

RURAL

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 132

03/05/19 15:29

HASHIMOTO INDUSTRY

GIORGIO ARMANI

STREET FASHION - PARIS

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 133

03/05/19 15:29

DINGEUNDURSACHEN

FELTED

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 134

03/05/19 15:29

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 135

03/05/19 15:30

MARNI

SCHMID

BLUE ITALY

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI BLUE ITALY

CRAFTED

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 136

03/05/19 15:30

MAISON MARGIELA 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 137

03/05/19 15:30

STREET FASHION - NEW YORK VICENZA PELLI

NOMADIC

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 138

03/05/19 15:30

TOKYO VICENZA PELLI 07_ SLOW CORE.indd 139

03/05/19 15:31

TEDDY BEAR

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 140

03/05/19 15:31

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 141

03/05/19 15:31

ISABEL MARANT

TEDDY BEAR

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 142

03/05/19 15:31

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 143

03/05/19 15:31

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

STREET FASHION - NEW YORK

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

SAVAGE

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 144

07/05/19 12:57

THOM BROWNE OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 145

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

EXPOPEL

03/05/19 15:32

NEW YORK

WORN OUT

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 146

03/05/19 15:32

HASHIMOTO INDUSTRY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA - VENICE

BERLUTI

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 147

03/05/19 15:33

AUTHENTIC

ARTVERONA

IPR

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 148

03/05/19 15:33

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 149

03/05/19 15:33

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

PALOMO SPAIN

SCHMID

07_ SLOW CORE.indd 104

03/05/19 15:22

c_y_v_a virtual adventure 00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 185

03/05/19 15:09

00a_APERTURE_MOODBOARDS.indd 186

03/05/19 15:09

c_y_v_a virtual adventure Choose Your Adventure Robotics, metaphysical journeys, industrial minimalism, post high tech, technical and creative high tech wear for connoisseurs. Circular Economy, new generation upcycling to invent new materials that are leading to a new unnatural/artificial/synthetic aesthetic. Sustainability is the sector that drives innovation and experimentation, because it is evolving into a new concept, from the raw material to finishes and applications. You are sustainable if you contribute to the Circular Economy. Recycling, reproposing, recreating, reworking in the key of Jet Age. The dominant theme of the coming seasons is and will be 360-degree innovation in VR (Virtual Reality). Experimenting the human skills in creating materials, experiences and objects. Each experimentation becomes an adventure. A current future, where space is given to creativity and playing with the new instruments: highly sophisticated digital, robotic machines develop new solutions. The human hand is having fun with futuristic equipment by experimenting with extreme materials. Designers are looking for new aesthetic aspects of next-generation materials. Manufacturing, applications, finishes and refining processes are what matters. Visionary, avant-garde and surreal designers/technicians turn into mixed media artists who are redesigning the future. The visionary worlds of Prada’s hyper-objects in Hong Kong Art Basel. The inflatable little man by KAWS, which is traveling in the world’s metropolis. The futuristic atmosphere of Nike’s The House of Innovation 000 in New York. Lyle XOX, beauty performer, who manipulates his face like a living sculpture.

MONCLER

HOKA ONE ONE

CONCEPT c_y_v_a virtual adventure

URBAN VIRTUALITY GLAM TECH

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 103

MIXED MEDIA

MOTOR RACING CULTURE

EXPERIMENTAL

INTERGALACTIC TRAVELS

03/05/19 15:29

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 104

03/05/19 15:29

CONCEPT

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 105

03/05/19 15:29

SØLVE SUNDSBØ

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 106

03/05/19 15:29

SEOUL INSTALLATION

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 107

03/05/19 15:29

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 108

03/05/19 15:29

MATERIALS

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 109

03/05/19 15:29

ACRYLIC

JF LONDON

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 110

03/05/19 15:29

SANTORI PELLAMI

SCHMID

CASADEI

MOSCHINO

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 111

03/05/19 15:29

STREET FASHION - PARIS SCHMID

CONCERIA NUVOLARI

CERAMIC

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 112

03/05/19 15:30

SHOP WINDOW - SEOUL GIUSEPPE AMADIO

MORO MINUTERIE 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 113

03/05/19 15:30

JORRIT TORNQUIST

CORPLAST

SANTONI

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 114

03/05/19 15:31

MARNI 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 115

TA.GO

MONCLER

WRAPPED

03/05/19 15:32

GIUSEPPE AMADIO

SCHMID

NÂ°21

FASHION WINDOW - LONDON

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 116

03/05/19 15:32

BLUE ITALY

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 117

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

STREET FASHION - LONDON

C.D.C.

Finishing by TFL

LIQUID

03/05/19 15:33

STREET FASHION - PARIS

SCHMID

PETROL

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 118

STREET FASHION - PARIS

SCHMID

GAMAR ITALIA

03/05/19 15:33

SANTORI PELLAMI BALDININI

FIMMA

SANKUANZ

GLACED

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 119

03/05/19 15:34

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

RUBBERISED

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 120

03/05/19 15:34

BLUE ITALY STREET FASHION - MILAN

MSGM 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 121

03/05/19 15:35

RADICAL MATT

DAVOS

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 122

03/05/19 15:35

DAVOS STREET FASHION - PARIS

FACETASM 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 123

03/05/19 15:35

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 124

03/05/19 15:35

STREET FASHION - PARIS

DESIGN SHANGHAI

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

LENE HELMER NIELSEN

KINETIC

CORPLAST

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 125

03/05/19 15:36

TA.GO

BLUE ITALY 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 126

03/05/19 15:36

STREET FASHION - SEOUL

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

LAYERINGS

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 127

03/05/19 15:36

RICOSTRU Finishing by TFL

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 128

SCHMID

TAORAY WANG

BONDED

03/05/19 15:37

SCHMID

TOM FORD 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 129

Finishing by TFL

FENDI

EMBOSSED

03/05/19 15:37

CARBIPEL 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 130

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

JOHN RICHMOND

INSIDE OUT

03/05/19 15:38

SCHMID

SLEEK

NÂ°21

STREET FASHION - MILAN

SHOP WINDOW - SEOUL

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 131

03/05/19 15:38

PRABAL GURUNG 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 132

MONCLER

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

MONCLER

IRIDESCENCE

03/05/19 15:39

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 133

07/05/19 12:18

RAMPONI

NAUFUS RAMIREZ FIGUEROA

MORO MINUTERIE

STREET FASHION - PARIS

ART INSTALLATION - NEW YORK

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 134

SCHMID

FACETASM

METALLIC SATINATED

03/05/19 15:40

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

REFLECTIVE

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 135

03/05/19 15:40

SHOP WINDOW - SEOUL

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

RICOSTRU

CORONET

XANDER ZHOU 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 136

03/05/19 15:40

Finishing by KENDA FARBEN

PALM ANGELS

Finishing by LANXESS

PEARL

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 137

03/05/19 15:41

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 138

STREET FASHION - PARIS

Finishing by LANXESS

STREET FASHION - PARIS

CORONET

OPACITY

03/05/19 15:41

SCHMID

CORONET 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 139

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

ROBERTO CAVALLI

SHOP WINDOW - SEOUL

03/05/19 15:42

CORONET

PRABAL GURUNG PRABAL GURUNG

MORO MINUTERIE

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 140

03/05/19 15:42

WHITE TOTEM - FLAVIO LUCCHINI - Photo by OLIVIERO TOSCANI

DAVOS

TEXTURED WHITE

DAVOS

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 141

03/05/19 15:42

NEW YORK 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 142

03/05/19 15:42

TA.GO

MINERAL

TA.GO

Finishing by TECNOCHIMICA

C.D.C.

TA.GO

VALENTINO

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 143

03/05/19 15:43

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

CYNTHIA ROWLEY

RIFRA NASTRI

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO

SHADED

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 144

03/05/19 15:43

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

PELLAMI DUE C

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO

UMPRUM

SMOKED

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 145

03/05/19 15:43

DESIGN SHANGHAI 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 146

03/05/19 15:44

SCHMID

THIN NETS

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 147

03/05/19 15:44

DESIGN SHANGHAI

CARBON FIBER

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 148

03/05/19 15:44

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES EMPORIO ARMANI EMPORIO ARMANI

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 149

03/05/19 15:44

SPACE AGE

CRAFTS OBJECTS - TOKYO

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 150

03/05/19 15:45

SCHMID SCHMID

SCHMID

MILANO FASHION GRADUATE

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 151

03/05/19 15:45

DESIGN SHANGHAI DESIGN SHANGHAI

XIA GAO

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 152

03/05/19 15:45

BLUE ITALY 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 153

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

CORONET

INTRICATE PERFECTION

03/05/19 15:46

SCHMID

TECH TURTLE

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 154

03/05/19 15:46

ROBERTO CAVALLI SCHMID

SPYDER SPYDER 08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 155

03/05/19 15:46

STRUCTURED

SEOUL

TECNO MINUTERIE

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 156

03/05/19 15:46

SCHMID STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

STREET FASHION - PARIS

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 157

03/05/19 15:47

SCHMID

TECHNO SCALES

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 158

03/05/19 15:47

Finishing by TECNOCHIMICA

EMPORIO ARMANI

M1992

Lasered by RAMPONI

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 159

03/05/19 15:47

08_ C_Y_V_A VIRTUAL ADVENTURE.indd 104

03/05/19 15:29

SHOE LASTS

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 233

07/05/19 14:35

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 234

07/05/19 14:35

shoe lasts Women’s boots are slim and slender. There are many new décolleté proposals, with rounded squared tips and comfortable heels. Will the décolleté be the next woman’s sneaker? Winter slingbacks with an hybrid upper shoe are made with stretch materials. Stiletto models have breathtaking heights. For him and her, pointed models with a western boot construction take the place of the New Classic winter chic version. On the forefront, hybrid and classic moccasins also in the Chelsea and Tube boot versions. Great attention is paid to soles, which can influence the aesthetic impact of the winter shoe with their new volumes. The sneaker becomes increasingly structured like a ski boot. We are looking for new models and new volumes to redesign the future, for elegant shapes that have a contemporary fit. A trapezoid, rather than a box with ergonomic lines, low boot heels, and always with an easy walk line. The contrast between structured and sturdy soles surmounted by an upper stretch, always comfortable, is very important. The red line that divides technical models from city models is now non-existent. The shoe of the future could contain a dosed mix of Hybrid + Classic + Hiking + Basket Fit + Runner Toe. Starting from Outdoor structures (Hunting, Ski, Fisherman, Equestrian) inter-seasonal and unisex volumes evolve everyday. It is the world of boots, derby, Chelsea, biker, ski boot, hunting boot, equestrian tube booties, basketball retro sneakers. Large fittings, structured soles are always hyper light. Shoe tips dispose of a thickened wall. Basic lines are never aggressive. Lines are rounded and smoothed, to make volumes softer and more basic. A new design is being developed, called Soft Slow Core, which sees its extension in neutral basic footwear models. Soft uppers, masks, tassels and laces redesign the winter moccasin, a model that will restore its dominance over the sneaker.

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 235

07/05/19 14:35

www.ifaba.it

All lasts are identified with a code. If you wish to know more or purchase Ifaba lasts, please contact: maddalenabelloni@ifaba.it

To access other views of the lasts and download the related files/images, write to: trends@edizioniaf.com

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 236

07/05/19 14:35

WOMAN COD. 57563 FOR SLIM BOOTIES WITH ROUNDED SQUARED TOE BY FAR

COD. 53182 FOR STRETCH ANKLE BOOTIES

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

COD. 56762 FOR SQUARED TOE STRETCH BOOT

ELLERY

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 237

07/05/19 14:35

WOMAN COD. 53927 FOR RETRO WESTERN STYLE FEMININE BOOT

TABITHA SIMMONS

COD. 57332 FOR STRAIGHT TUBE BOOT WITH SHORT TOE

GIANVITO ROSSI

COD. 57294 FOR LARGE FITTING PUMP. OVERSIZE LOEWE

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 238

07/05/19 14:35

WOMAN COD. 53366 FOR COMFORT FIT SLING BACK WITH SQUARED TOE PRADA

COD. 54477 FOR NEW MOCCASIN/LOAFER VALENTINO

COD. 57619 FOR FANCY LOAFER

NEOUS

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 239

07/05/19 14:35

WOMAN COD. 55125 FOR NEW STILETTO SLING BACK GUCCI

COD. 56277 FOR PUMP WITH ELASTIC BACK DETAIL VICTORIA BECKHAM

COD. 42620 FOR CUT OUT BOOT TIBI

COD. 56408 FOR COMFY SLIDE VINCE

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 240

07/05/19 14:35

MAN COD. 15137 FOR AGGRESSIVE DERBY ANKLE BOOT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

COD. 15137 FOR DRESSY ANKLE BOOT THOM BROWNE

COD. 15137 FOR BIKER BOOT

LUDWIG REITER

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 241

07/05/19 14:35

MAN COD. 14366 FOR DRESSY HIKING SNEAKER BOOT

SALOMON

COD. 14788 FOR LOW TOP HIKING SNEAKER STYLE

ARCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;TERYX

COD. 14009 FOR HYBRID STYLE BERLUTI

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 242

07/05/19 14:35

MAN COD. 14375 FOR HYBRID DRESSY ANKLE BOOT BOTTEGA VENETA

COD. 15136 FOR OUTSTANDING 70’S DERBY STYLE WITH HIGH WALL

GUCCI

COD. 15052 FOR HYBRID MOCCASIN BOOT VISVIM

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 243

07/05/19 14:35

MAN COD. 14791 FOR AFTER SKI BOOT

LORO PIANA

COD. 14368 FOR LARGE VOLUME MOCCASIN

MR P.

COD. 15112 FOR DRESSY OUTDOOR STYLE WITH CLASSIC LINE Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;KEEFFE

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 244

07/05/19 14:35

UNISEX COD. 15043 FOR DRESSY AFTER SKI BOOT SOREL

COD. 14022 FOR HIGH TOP SNEAKER WITH CUPSOLE TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

COD. 14195 FOR SLIM FIT TRAIL RUNNING STYLE

SALOMON

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 245

07/05/19 14:35

UNISEX COD. 14863 FOR ALPINEINSPIRED HIKING BOOT STYLE DUNHILL

COD. 14375 FOR COMFY BOOT STYLE MALIBU

COD. 14841 FOR INNOVATIVE TRAINING STYLE WITH SPOILER

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 246

UNDER ARMOUR

07/05/19 14:35

UNISEX COD. 14841 FOR STREETWEAR STYLE SNEAKER WITH SPOILER GIVENCHY

COD. 14776 FOR COMFY FIT LOAFER BERLUTI

COD. 14673 FOR RETRO BASKETBALL INSPIRED STYLE GUCCI

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 247

07/05/19 14:35

UNISEX COD. 15280 FOR RETRO RUNNING STYLE WITH SLIM FIT PRADA

COD. 14134 FOR SNEAKER WITH SPOILER AND ELASTIC STOCKING TOM FORD

COD. 15248 FOR TRAIL STYLE SNEAKER HOKA ONE ONE

09_FORME E SCARPE.indd 248

07/05/19 14:36

BAG VOLUMES

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 245

03/05/19 15:32

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 246

03/05/19 15:32

bag volumes Models with an unprecedented structure, because it combines retro icons with an eclectic design. A hoboinspired handbag. A semi-rigid bucket style bag with sturdy bottoms. The evolution of the Bowling Bag into Basketball Bag to carry over the shoulder. A stiff saddler handbag in semi-vegetable leathers, with four-colour printed laser-finished borders. A Doctor Bag, with two-tone accordion effect. A beauty bag to be used as a handbag. The traditional travel beauty for women turns into a cult object for men. Also in mini and medium size versions. Box models are equipped with tubular handles and braided details. The man sees great classic versions in a modern and ironic key. Medium and small volumes can expand their size with the help of zips and strategic openings. Interesting experiments of basic geometric shapes for squared bottoms, trapezoid sides or details of oval structures. Functional models like the small bucket bag have an oval base and an asymmetrical spiral design. Bucket bags with a curved base have double shoulder straps. A small bag with square base and a long adjustable handle. For him, the hot models are travel and office luggage hybrids to wear as a backpack, even if structures are inspired by traditional luggage. Body Dress Belt Bags replace the City Backpack. The traveling man purse becomes a practical and fashionable article for urban use. Proposals for innovative, ultra-flat Tech Backpack continue. Shoppers, bags, briefcases are simplified in the structure and in the fastenings. The bag body seems to be cut clean to contain and support a soft pouch choked by a hidden elastic drawstring. Semi-rigid and semi-soft they are perfect for subdued, comfortable volumes, without the claim to follow trends. Double handles and the internal shoulder strap dispose of sturdy bands for the support points. Attention is paid to redesign everything with rounded or smoothed lines. This novel design is particularly important for the New Basic, which is increasingly becoming the new classic trend.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 247

03/05/19 15:32

WOMAN

HOBO INSPIRED. STRUCTURED. Recalling a structured Hobo made of vegetable leather, this semi-rigid bag to carry by hand hides a bag made of ultra-soft material closed with a drawstring. A balanced contrast in a model that does not go unnoticed.

STAUD

BUCKET STYLE. SEMI RIGID. A large semi-rigid band acts as a frame for a bucket made of naturally tumbled leather to emphasise the egg shape. A crossbody model to wear almost like a container of precious coins.

THE ROW

PRECIOUS WALKING BOX. This model, a mix between a flying saucer and a small jewelery box, becomes a handbag. The circumference is taken to extremes with a huge piping almost as if it was a bumper to symbolically protect its content.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 248

AREA

03/05/19 15:32

WOMAN EVOLUTION OF THE BOWLING BAG IN A BASKETBALL BAG. Sport is increasingly influencing fashion. The classic basketball inspired this easy and practical opening bag: the double slider zip hides a gusset on each side to allow easy access to the inside. Large capacity for a medium-sized model.

GUCCI

SADDLER HANDBAG. RIGID. A small Saddler with a distinctive feature. This article highlights both the cleanliness and linearity of the modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lines and accessories. A successful contrast between a saddle construction, by its very definition sporty, and the preciousness and richness of metals.

MARNI

SMALL BUCKET WITH OVAL BASE. Four important studs on the base and sustained leather allow the bag to maintain its shape. The internal magnet supports the flower closure. The hammered and deliberately disproportionate gold handle makes it almost an object of design.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 249

MARNI

03/05/19 15:32

WOMAN

BUCKET WITH ROCKING BASE. An atypical bucket bag with a rocking base to carry on your shoulder. The bag-body seems to be cut clean to contain and hold up a soft bag obstructed by a hidden elastic drawstring.

TL-180

SMALL BAG WITH A SQUARE BASE AND A LONG HANDLE. Made with a patchwork of crocodile prints. The prints reproduce various parts of the reptile: side, tail and belly.

REJINA PYO

ACCORDION EFFECT. A bag inspired by the doctor bag with an accordion effect and reinterpreted in a futuristic version. The inspiration that can be received is to combine the typical compartments of a wallet organiser with a heavy and exaggerated zing (frame). A large handle for such a small article completes the maximalism of the object.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 250

GABRIELA HEARST

07/05/19 12:22

WOMAN

RIGID HANDBAG. RETRO STRUCTURE. A small, lightly trapezoidal handbag. The shaped flap contains an important metal closure with pressure opening through the central sphere. The union of lines and the closure give the article a vague retro touch.

RATIO ET MOTUS

TRAPEZOIDAL SHAPE. STRUCTURED. A zipper bag with trapezoidal shape and minimal lines to carry by hand. The elongated and deliberately geometric shape and the snap closure with a sphere are the elements that play with the contrast of the shapes

RATIO ET MOTUS

SHOPPING STYLE. TRADITIONAL PROCESSING. This leather shopping bag recalls the more traditional aspect of craftsmanship. The pattern has a simple construction, but a refined design. An enhancement of simplicity with few cuts!

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 251

NANUSHKA

03/05/19 15:32

WOMAN SMALL SHOULDER BAG. A small chain cross body bag with a thin leather shoulder strap. The mix of canvas effect fabric and vegetable tanned leather blend with the important brass closure. A small object with a distinctive feature.

TL-180

HOBO BAG WITH BOW SHOULDER STRAP. The leather softness emphasised by a nappa treatment builds this square hobo model knotted on the shoulder strap. Leather worked as a fabric to build a bag that fits like a dress.

LOEWE

MINI SHOPPING. This mini shopping bag evokes wicker baskets and woven leather bags at the same time. The transparency of leather processing can be limited by a removable fabric container to be either made ton sur ton with leather or in more contrasting colours

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 252

HEREU

03/05/19 15:32

MAN BEAUTY HANDBAG The traditional travel beauty for women turns into a cult object for men. Strictly hand-carried. In leather or in washable fabric, but it is essential that the structure recalls a luggage item: a large cover for practical access to the inside.

DIOR HOMME

BOX-SHAPED. TUBULAR HANDLE. A brand new carry handbag for men with a box shape and a tubular handle. The faces are soft and contained in the gussets applied as a support. The single colour and the single material are decisive elements to bring out the essence of the article

EUDON CHOI

BACKPACK INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL LUGGAGE. The most traditional luggage continues as a source of inspiration for menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather models: the 48-hour suitcase becomes a backpack. The suitcase is just a faint memory though. The article is in fact built on a soft base, the reinforced corners create the squared effect.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 253

LOUIS VUITTON

03/05/19 15:32

MAN BACKPACK INSPIRED BY A BRIEFCASE. The most historic form of the briefcase is recovered from the past, enriched and completed to be updated to the contemporary glamour spirit. Functional pockets decorate face and gussets. For the more fashionable variant you can also wear it as a backpack thanks to the comfortable straps that embrace the shoulders.

THOM BROWNE

BUGATTI STYLE. The purity and essence of the Bugatti model, a term that by now has become part of the leather goods glossary. This model with an impeccable construction, sophisticated materials and perfect finishes becomes a sophisticated accessory to complete a masculine tailored outfit.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

TRAVEL BAG. Used for a short trip, or to complete a set, this bag wants to draw attention to the importance that luggage items had and still maintain to define menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe. Elegant, essential, strictly in leather.Â

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 254

SAINT LAURENT

03/05/19 15:32

MAN TECH BACKPACK. Lycra, neoprene and resistant, elastic, waterproof and heat-insulating materials build backpacks for an innovative consumer. Zips and accessories are made of plastic with oversized dimensions. The too exaggerated logo is thermo formed.

MONCLER

CITY BACKPACK. This form of nylon backpack is super modern. Its shape is essential with clean apparently minimal lines. Inspiration comes directly from the world of sport, one of the sports where it is crucial to express maximum strength in the shortest possible time: boxing

NN07

TRAVEL PURSE. PRATICAL AND FASHION. The travel purse becomes a practical and fashion article for urban use. Essential in its form, but super-equipped with comfortable pockets it is designed to hold everyday objects. The sharp, intentionally rough, cuts of the skin want to emphasise the joint of double-layer material and the resulting depth contrast.

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 255

MAISON MARGIELA

07/05/19 12:23

10_VOLUMI_BORSE.indd 256

03/05/19 15:32

trends guide The Arsutoria magazine was founded in 1947 specifically for footwear manufacturers. Since its origin, the magazine has been produced inside the publishing offices of the International Technical Institute for the Footwear Industry to underline the fact that this publishing experience is rooted in the desire to offer footwear professional contents that are both creative and highly technical - i.e. never disconnected from the reality of the Italian manufacturing industry. The first issues of the magazine - which are still available for viewing at the Milan headquarters presented footwear ideas - concepts and designs. Our aim is to recapture this proactive spirit. Over the years the Arsutoria magazine has become the reference point for learning about footwear collections - materials and components. The possibility to travel around the world and the availability of digital information in real time has allowed us to be a strategic observatory of the most important events and trends in the international fashion world. The rational observation of these trends allows us to offer expert opinions on what was successful in international markets during current and past seasons - but also to formulate proposals and incentives to help operators work on their upcoming collections.

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 253

03/05/19 17:24

MAGAZINES

ARSUTORIA arsutoriamagazine.com

ARPEL arpelmagazine.com

AFMAG af-magazine.com

FOTO SHOE 30 fotoshoemagazine.com

BAMBINO arstrends.com/Kids

fotoshoemagazine.com

ARSUTORIA TANNERY tannerymagazine.com

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 254

03/05/19 17:25

BOOKS

ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN One issue published for S/S in November and one for A/W in May

FOOTWEAR DICTIONARY

ON LINE ARSTRENDS

ONLINE SHOE AND BAG DATABASE A huge database of photos of shoes, bags and materials, divided by style, season, events and much more. Hundreds of new pictures uploaded every week. Get the last trend information from international fairs, catwalks and retail windows. Get inspired by original prototypes. Register your free trial at www.arstrends.com

ARSUTORIA/ARPEL HISTORICAL ARCHIVE LOOK INTO THE PAST TO CREATE THE FUTURE NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE CONSULTATION! For computer, tablet, and mobile (iOS & Android) Library consultation available in Milan Magazine re-printing available on demand

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 255

03/05/19 17:25

TRENDS

ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE 2 ISSUES

An exclusive focus on shoes and bags to offer unique insights and ideas. A unique research on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed into several aspects: keywords, colours, volumes, materials, moodboards, analysis, historical archive references. Published in November for SS and in April for AW.

DOWNLOAD MATERIALS PICTURES

All the pictures of the materials presented in these books are available for download from arstrends.com, our online portal.

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 256

Contact trends@edizioniaf.com to enable your account for free

03/05/19 17:25

ORDER FORM

ISSUES

ITALY*

EUROPE USA CANADA

REST OF THE WORLD

ARSUTORIA TRENDS GUIDE ** - book

concept - colors - materials for shoes & bags

1 season

€ 500

2 seasons

€ 800

TRENDS

ARSUTORIA - magazine

shoes collection - for designers & manufacturers

1 year

€ 300

€ 500

€ 550

2 years

€ 480

€ 850

€ 950

1 year

€ 150

€ 230

€ 250

2 years

€ 250

€ 380

€ 420

1 year

€ 150

€ 240

€ 270

2 years

€ 240

€ 420

€ 480

ARPEL - magazine

bags collections

TRADE

FOTO SHOE 30 - magazine

shoe collections - for retailers BAMBINO - magazine + web

magazine: kids shoes

1 year

€ 200

€ 230

€ 240

web: kids shoes + materials

2 years

€ 320

€ 380

€ 400

1 year

€ 60

€ 75

2 years

€ 110

€ 140

1 years

€ 30

€ 90

FUR - magazine

fur and leather garments AFMAG - magazine

fashion accessories www.arstrends.com** - web

1 year

€ 650

2 years

€ 1040

1 year

€ 400

2 years

€ 640

1 year

€ 800

2 years

€ 1280

one decade ARSUTORIA

1 year

€ 2500

one decade ARPEL

1 year

€ 2500

WEB

photos: shoes + materials photos: bags + materials photos: shoes + bags + materials HISTORICAL ARCHIVE

REPORT

ARSUTORIA ONLY WOMAN / ONLY MAN** - book

man shoes collections woman shoes collections

1 season

€ 150

2 seasons

€ 250

1 season

€ 150

2 seasons

€ 250

TECHNICAL

SAFETY* - magazine

safety & industrial shoes

1 year

€ 50

O € 60

2 years

€ 80

O € 90

1 year

€ 90

O € 120

2 years

€ 150

O € 170

ARSTANNERY* - magazine

chemicals & technology for leather FOOTWEAR TECHNICAL DICTIONARY** - book

shoes

1 book

€ 120

TOTAL

COMPANY ADDRESS CITY ZIP CONTACT EMAIL PHONE VAT NBR

_____________________________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________ ____________ COUNTRY _______________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________ +_____/______________________________ _____________________________________

*All copies to be sent by Postal Service

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 257

CREDIT CARD _ _ _ _ - _ _ _ _ - _ _ _ _ - _ _ _ _ EXP. DATE _ _ / _ _ CARDHOLDER NAME ______________________________ SIGNATURE _______________________________ BANK TRANSFER IBAN: IT 49 Z 01030 01604 000002285956 Monte Paschi Siena Swift: PASCITM1MI4

**Prices are subject to VAT: only for Italy and private UE clients

03/05/19 17:25

70 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE

UNIQUENESS

INDUSTRY RELATIONS

This year we are proud to celebrate 70 years of training the experts in the footwear industry

We are the only school based in a fashion capital with an internal factory for shoe and bag manufacturing

Customized in-house training for prestigious brands

REPUTATION

DIVERSITY

We are the reference for the footwear industry for both design and engineering training

Over 50 nationalities, over 75% of the student’s population is international, all courses are offered in English

ACCOMMODATION

We have apartments in the same building of the school available for students’ rental

SHOE COURSES IN ITALY One-year shoe intensive course INTAKES: JANUARY, APRIL, SEPTEMBER

Shoe pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 12 WEEKS • INTAKES: JANUARY, APRIL, SEPTEMBER

Sneaker design, pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: APRIL, JULY, NOVEMBER

Shoe design course

DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: APRIL, JULY, NOVEMBER

Shoe 3D digital design course

DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: JANUARY, MAY

Shoe making: sneaker, sandal, pump, laced-up DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: MAY, SEPTEMBER

Startup your own shoe brand

DURATION: 3 DAYS • INTAKES: MAY, JULY, DECEMBER

Corso sabato mattina per lavoratori

DURATA: 9 MESI • PROSSIMA SESSIONE: NOVEMBRE 2018

NEW

SHOES + BAGS COURSE

One - year intensive course INTAKES: JANUARY, AUGUST

BAG COURSES IN ITALY Bag semester

INTAKES: MARCH, SEPTEMBER

Bag pattern making and prototyping course DURATION: 10 WEEKS • INTAKES: MARCH, SEPTEMBER

Bag design course

DURATION: 4 WEEKS • INTAKES: JUNE, NOVEMBER

Bag making: tote, clutch, backpack DURATION: 3 WEEKS • INTAKES: JULY, DECEMBER

Boston

Los Angeles

FOCUS ON

OUTDOOR/PERFORMANCE DURATION

1 WEEK CLASSES IN

FEBRUARY / SEPTEMBER

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 258

New York City

FOCUS ON

CASUAL/DRESSY

DURATION

1 WEEK

CLASSES IN

MARCH

JULY

WORKSHOPS IN THE US

Since 2009, we have delivered workshops in the US, in Boston with a focus on outdoor/performance shoes (in collaboration with TwoTen) and since 2011 in NYC (in collaboration with FFANY) with a focus on casual/ dressy footwear. In less than a decade we have trained nearly 800 professionals from leading US companies. In 2018 we have launched a class in LA to better serve the West Coast footwear companies

03/05/19 17:25

design. engineer. make.

arsutoriaschool.com The world leading school for shoes and bags professionals

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 259

03/05/19 17:25

11_NS_Riviste_.indd 260

03/05/19 17:25

trends guide

International Fashion Footwear Magazine founded in 1947

editorial director Matteo Pasca coordinamento redazione Enrico Martinelli arsutoria research team Orietta Pelizzari Georgia Turri Mariacristina Rossi Carlo Sorrenti

marketing & sales Mariella Catalano Mariel Cuba Andrea Zampieri trends@edizioniaf.com

12_colophon_Indice.indd 261

03/05/19 15:34

We would like to thank for the collaboration:

BLUE ITALY GROUP - special applications on fabric, leather and plastics CARBIPEL - tanning of hair-on hides and skins CDC - ornamental chains CONCERIA NUVOLARI - leather for shoes and bags CORONET - synthetic leather CORPLAST - polyurethane, rubber and thermoplastic soles DAVOS - rubber sheets and soles manufacturing DIMAR CONCERIA - embossed leather FIMMA - SINCRO - accessories for leather goods GAMAR ITALIA - shoes accessories IFABA FORMIFICIO - lasts IMPERIALI ATTILIO TESSITURA - textiles for shoes & bags IPR - polyurethane, TR, PVC and rubber soles KENDA FARBEN - colors for leather finishing LANXESS - chemicals for leather LANZI NASTRIFICIO - ribbons MORO MINUTERIE - shoes & bags accessories M.P.G. INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA - vegetable-tanned leather NASTROTEX-CUFRA - elastic ribbons

www.blueitaly.org www.carbipel.com www.cdcsrl.net www.concerianuvolari.com www.coronetspa.it www.corplast.it www.davos.it www.dimar.com www.sincro-italy.com www.gamaritalia.eu www.ifaba.it www.attilioimperiali.it www.iprspa.com www.kendafarben.com www.lanxess.com www.lanzinastrificio.it www.moromin.it www.mpg.it www.nastrotex-cufra.it

OMNIPEL TECHNOLOGIES - high-tech fabrics and microfibers

www.omnipel.com

PELLAMI DUE C - leather & lining for shoes

www.duecspa.com

RAMPONI - strass, studs and laser-cuts

www.ramponisas.net

RIFRA NASTRI - ribbons

www.rifranastri.it

SANTORI PELLAMI - leather for shoes and bags

www.santori.com

SCHMID - top-end artisanal fabrics for shoes and bags TA.GO - laminated and embossed leathers TECNO MINUTERIE - shoes & bags accessories TECNOCHIMICA - chemicals for leather

www.schmid.it www.ta-go.it www.tecnominuterie.com www.tecnochimica.eu

TFL - chemicals for leather

www.tfl.com

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO - welts for shoes

www.tre-bi.it

VICENZA PELLI - CONCERIA SAN BIAGIO - leathers and cavallino hair for shoes & bags

www.vicenzapelli.com

trends guide

12_colophon_Indice.indd 262

03/05/19 15:34