Arsutoria Trends Guide AW 2021/22

autumn winter 2021-22

trends guide

ANDY DE CALZADILLA

GALERIE ALBERTA PANE

MINIMALISM MAXIMALISTS OF

M_M MINI EXPLORE SMALL EMBEDDED DETAILS. REDESIGN MINIMALISM

OVER LAYERING OF SAND, FOR FULL BODY NATURAL LEATHER

M_M

MINI

GALERIE ALBERTA PANE SPANGHERO - ECHEA

M_M

MINI

STRETCH ROUNDED EMBOSSING

HIGH FREQUENCY ORIGAMI

M_M

MINI

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

GLAZED VERNISHED SLEEK NAPLACK

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

MINI

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

M_M

MINI

OPACITY FINISHING FOR FUNTIONAL DOUBLE FACE SURFACES DONADINI

STELLA RIPLEY

M_M

MINI

SPRAY INJECTED, COLOUR PRINTED SOFT VARNISHED

STELLA RIPLEY

M_M

MINI

PEARLESCENT REFLECTIVE EFFECTS, FOR SOPHISTICATED CALF LEATHER ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

SHYGLOART

M_M

MINI

MASSIVE, GRAINY, WAXED, IMPRESSIVE

PRONOUNCE

BEN TAVERNITI

STATEMENT AVANTGARDE

M_M

MINI

ARTISSIMA TORNIO 2019

PROGRESSIVE CLASSIC TIMOTHY RIVES RUSH

MARCO GUGLIELMI

SUNNEI

M_M

MINI

EVOLVING HERRINGBONE WITH COATINGS AND THERMO TAPING.

M_M

MINI

WEAVING EFFECTS. EMBOSSING CUT OUT.

M_M

MINI

KITON

CHECKS, PRINCE OF WALES AND MICRO HERRINGBONE, COATED AND INCAPSULATED

M_M

MINI

FIGURATIVE QUILTING ON WOOL AND RECYCLED POLYESTER

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

MINI

FELT AND SPLIT LEATHER, DESTRUCTURED AND SAND BLEACHED

MULTIPLE LAYERED CHECKS, WEAVES AND EMBOSSING ARTE FIERA MILANO

M_M

MINI

DOMENICO DEL GAIS

ARTE FIERA MILANO

M_M

MINI

INTRICATE ORGANICS: NEW WINTER MESH AND MARBLE LOOK ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

M_M

MINI

LAMELLED SEQUINS, FEATHERS AND CUT OUT SKINS

RUBICO' GALLERY MEXICO

M_M

MINI

PLATED RUBBER INTARSIA EFFECT TO HIGHLIGHT WAXED SKINS AND OXIDATED METALLICS

GRAPHICS OF EMBOSSING AND CUT-OUT DECORATIONS

TUCCI RUSSO

M_M

MINI

MEMORY FORM SHAPE ABSTRACT VOLUMES

M_M

MINI

OTTOLINGER

M_M

MINI

SATINATED NYLON. SLEEK GOAT SKIN. LYCRA SILK TOUCH.

FENDI

EMPORIO ARMANI

M_M

MINI

FURRY THREADS SPIRALS AND HERRINGBONE. LONG HAIR SHEARLING

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

BENDANA PINEL

M_M

MINI

BURNED OUT SHEARLING FOR APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES

EMPORIO ARMANI

M_M

MINI

MICRO-JACQUARD ON SKIN

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

MINI

GLASS COATING BROKEN SCALES

M_M BALANCED

NATURALLY CRAFTED TO LAST A LIFETIME. EQUILIBRIUM OF STRUCTURES AND STATEMENT FINISHINGS

M_M

BALANCED

MAX ZORN

JAVIER BELLOMO CORIA

M_M

BALANCED

BLURRY WOOD WAVES EFFECTS. SUBTLE LAYERES OF SKINS

ANDERSEN

M_M

BALANCED

WESTERN MINIMALISM

M_M

BALANCED

CHEVRON, MAXI STRIPED SURFACES

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

M_M

BALANCED

EMBOSSING MACRO PATTERNS FOR OVERSIZE LEATHER GOODS VOLUMES

BLOOD BROTHER

M_M

BALANCED

SOFT SKIN WAXED SOAP EFFECT ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

ACNE

M_M

BALANCED

WRAPPED LAMB FOR OVERSIZE SHAPE BOOTS

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

BALANCED

SOFTLY GLAZED GENUINE LEATHER

M_M

BALANCED

SIMPLE ORNAMENTS MADE IN WOOD FOR A STATEMENT NEW CLASSIC

VELVET, CORDUROY, EMBOSSED LINES, TO ELEVATE THE AUTHENTICITY OF LEATHER

M_M

BALANCED

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

NABUK FEELING, CLEAN AND DOUBLE FACE

M_M

BALANCED

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

MIAORAN

PATENT FINISH AND GLASS REFLECTIVE FOR APPAREL THAT WILL BECAME FUTURE VINTAGE

M_M

BALANCED

LEMAIRE

LEMAIRE

M_M

BALANCED

ORGANIC BRUSHED TWEED, MELTED ROUGHNESS

ANTONY JAMES

LOEWE

M_M

BALANCED

SOFT MOULDED SKIN, FOR SEASONLESS SLIP-ON AND SNEAKERS ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

MIGUEL VIEIRA

M_M

BALANCED

HIKING TECHNO SOFT AND BALANCED CORDURA + SUEDE MIAORAN

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

OLD SCHOOL STYLES

M_M

BALANCED

M_M MAXI EXCESS CAN BE SOBER AND CURATED, WHERE THE ASSEMBLAGE OF EMBELLISHMENT IS SMART AND INTELLECTUAL

LUCIO CARVALHO

M_M

MAXI

BALANCE THE EXCESS WITH FUTURISTIC MAXIMALISM

M_M

MAXI

A TOUCH OF METALLIC EXTRAVAGANCE TONED DOWN WITH MINIMALISTIC LINES

XANDER ZHOU

PENELOPE FEDOR

M_M

MAXI

OXIDATED COPPER IS FOR JEWELLERY FRANK OLIVA

SMART DETAILS FOR GRAFFITI, GRAPHIC LETTERS AND STITCHINGS

XANDER ZHOU

M_M

MAXI

FRANK OLIVA

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

MAXI

TUBULAR CHAINS AND FRINGES

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

M_M

MAXI

LASERED TAPESTRIES

DAKS

LIZA LOU

M_M

MAXI

GEMS AND PEARLS ENCRUSTED EMBELLISHMENTS

M_M

MAXI

INTARSIA, LAYERING, LAMELLED, PLACED ABSTRACT PATTERNS AARON FOWLER

M_M

MAXI

LASERED AND LAMELLED BONDED LEATHER WITH TULLE AND ORGANZA ARTE FIERA MILANO

WHATIFTHEWORLD SOAL LAMENT (WE THOUGHT THE GOOD TIMES WOULD NEVER END)

M_M

MAXI

ALTERNATIVE DECORATIONS MADE BY FLUFFY THREADS

CLASSICS REVISITED. RELIEFS, IMPRINTINGS, SCALES, ROUGH OUTSOLES

MARY KATRANTZOU

M_M

MAXI

ADA DELVE

FELIPE LAVIN

M_M

MAXI

STRIPED OPULENCE BECAME SOBER PATTERNS DANIELE PAPULI

M_M

MAXI

COLOR BLOCK PATTERNS FOR SOFT SKIN

M_M

MAXI

LAYERING, ZEBRA WOOD, SKIN PATTERNS

ZICEN ZHANG

MATERIALS SELECTION

PINTEREST

SILGA GOMMA

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

BREAKING THE CLASSIC

CONCERIA NUVOLARI

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

HARMONT & BLAINE

TECNO MINUTERIE

NASTROTEX

STREET FASHION - PARIS

RIFRA NASTRI

PELLAMI DUE C

CHURCH’S

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO

GIORGIO ARMANI

BREAKING THE CLASSIC

MORO MINUTERIE

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

DIMAR CONCERIA

SANTONI

HERMÈS

NASTROTEX

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

BREAKING THE CLASSIC

STREET FASHION - MILAN

CORPLAST

CORPLAST

STREET FASHION - FLORENCE

CONCERIA SAN BIAGIO

STREET FASHION - PARIS

RAUL LEMESOFF - WEAPON OF MASS INSTRUCTION

STREET FASHION - MILAN

MILITARY STYLE CONCERIA SAN BIAGIO

MORO MINUTERIE

NASTROTEX

PELLAMI DUE C

IPR

M.P.G. INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA

STREET FASHION - PARIS

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

CARBIPEL

SANTORI PELLAMI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

MILITARY STYLE CONCERIA NUVOLARI

CORONET

IPR

TECNO MINUTERIE

LEMARGO

TA.GO

NEIL BARRET

DIMAR CONCERIA

ORCIANI

CESARE PACIOTTI

SANTONI

CORONET

SANTORI PELLAMI

SHADES M.P.G. INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA

BERLUTI

TOD’S

TOM HEGEN

ORCIANI

CARBIPEL

BERLUTI

ORCIANI

RIFRA NASTRI

SHADES

PRONOUNCE

KIM KEEVER

ANTONIO MAURIZI

TOM HEGEN

RIFRA NASTRI

C.D.C.

FRANKIE MORELLO

SILGA GOMMA

STREET FASHION - PARIS

SHADES

MSGM

RANPONI

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

DOLCE & GABBANA

ALBERTA FERRETTI

SOFT & WARM

BOTTEGA VENETA

CUP OF TEA

TA.GO

NASTROTEX

CARBIPEL

BALMAIN

MAX MARA

SOFT & WARM

CORONET

DAVOS

TA.GO

STREET FASHION - PARIS

FIRENZE ART FAIR

QUILTED

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

TOD’S

BALMAIN

PELLAMI DUE C

DAVOS

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

QUILTED BALMAIN

SUSAN DWYER

ACNE STUDIOS

BALMAIN

N°21

N°21

CONCERIA NUVOLARI

OFF THE CHAIN

C.D.C.

N°21

DIMAR CONCERIA

ULLA JOHNSON

C.D.C.

ULLA JOHNSON

OFF THE CHAIN CORONET

ALBERTA FERRETTI

TRE BI GUARDOLIFICIO

CATWALKS ANALYSIS

PRE-FALL 2020/21

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

SUPERLATIVE DIOR THE DIOR FASHION SHOW EXPRESSES VITALITY AND NEW MOOD. A COLLECTION CREATED IN SYMBIOSIS WITH THE VERY POPULAR STREETWEAR BRAND SHAWN STUSSY, A BRAND THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN INSPIRED BY THE SKATE SCENE AND URBAN SUBCULTURES. A STYLE THAT MIXES HIGH-LEVEL COUTURE FOR MEN WITH URBAN TRENDS AND IS VERY REMINISCENT OF THE 80S SUPER STAR STREET ARTISTS, FROM KEITH HARING TO JEAN MICHEL BASQUIAT. PRECIOUS MIX’N’MATCH HUES, WITH LOGO PRINTS IN CONTRASTING COLOUR NUANCES FOR A CHIC STREET STYLE.

DIOR

DIOR

DIOR

DIOR

DIOR

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

STRIPES STRIPES, A TIMELESS ELEMENT. THEY INSPIRE JOY, THEY CAN HAVE A SPORTY AND SUPER CASUAL BUT ALSO AN ELEGANT SIDE. STRIPES IN THE MOST CLASSIC MATCH OF BLACK AND WHITE, OR COLOURED STRIPES THAT DARE WITH BRIGHTER COMBINATIONS. THEY CAN BE DRAWN IN VARIOUS WAYS: HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL OR OBLIQUE, WIDE OR NARROW. THEY STRETCH, DECEIVE THE EYES AND CONFER A FAST PACE TO OUTFITS.

LOEWE

BALMAIN

GANNI

GIVENCHY

LOEWE

OFF-WHITE

SALLY LAPOINTE

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

POLKA DOTS “ROUND, SOFT AND SENSELESS”, AS YAYOI KUSAMA DEFINES THEM, THE ICONIC JAPANESE ARTIST OBSESSED WITH DOTS. POLKA DOTS ARE TIMELESS, IRRESISTIBLE, VERSATILE AS, IF NECESSARY, THEY KNOW HOW TO BE FUNNY, RETRO, BON TON, ROCK AND ELEGANT...

THEY ARE A TIMELESS CLASSIC AND A PLEASURE TO SEE AGAIN ON THE CATWALK WITH ITS CONTINUOUS EVOLUTIONS. PERHAPS BECAUSE IT BRINGS US BACK TO THAT MAGICAL ELEGANCE OF THE 50S. FOR YEARS, IN FACT, POLKA DOTS HAVE BEEN SYMBOLISING FEMININITY, ELEGANCE, STYLE, REFINEMENT.

DUNDAS

DIOR

GUCCI

MONSE

ULLA JOHNSON

VALENTINO

VALENTINO

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

MIMETIC EFFECT THIS IS THE MOST AGGRESSIVE TREND OF THE SEASON. THE MILITARY STYLE, WITH A MIMETIC EFFECT PATTERN IS A TREND INTERPRETED BY BRANDS NOT ONLY IN A CASUAL STREET STYLE BUT ALSO IN MORE CLASSIC VARIANTS OR IN VIRTUOUS EXPERIMENTS ON THE THEME, ALSO REMIXED WITH ANIMAL PRINTS. THESE VARIATIONS IN MILITARY STYLE CONQUER CELEBRITIES AS WELL AS DESIGNERS. AS MIUCCIA PRADA SAYS: “IT IS AN INVITATION TO SEARCH FOR THE GOOD IN A WORLD WHERE VIOLENCE SURROUNDS US AND WAR SCARES US”.

OR WE CAN IMAGINE WOMEN AND MEN AS, POSITIVE, WARRIORS FIGHTING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT.

MOSCHINO

DIOR

MOSCHINO

MOSCHINO

PRADA

PRADA

R13

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

SUPER CLASSIC THERE IS THE INFINITE LOVE STORY OF FASHION FOR THAT MASCULINE STYLE THAT HAS LONG BEEN SYNONYMOUS WITH A CERTAIN FEMININE ELEGANCE. IN THIS TREND, WITH MORE WEARABLE FEATURES, FEMININITY MEETS AN ELEGANCE OF THE PAST. THERE ARE WOMEN WHO SEEK ELEGANCE AND SOBRIETY FROM MORNING TO NIGHT. A MORE CLASSIC ELEGANCE, BUT NO LESS SUPER CONTEMPORARY AND OF INTELLECTUAL SUBSTANCE. STRUCTURES ARE IMPECCABLE AS TESTYFING TO AN AURA OF PERMANENCE. TONES ARE NEUTRAL AND NATURAL BECAUSE THEY RECALL THE COLOURS OF THE EARTH.

FENDI

BALMAIN

FENDI

FENDI

JOSEPH

MONSE

ROBERTO CAVALLI

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

ECLECTIC MIX OF PATTERNS AN ECLECTIC MIX OF PATTERNS, PRINTS AND MODELS COMBINING SILHOUETTES OF OPPOSING DECADES, CONTRASTING VINTAGE FABRICS WITH MODERN AND ASYMMETRICAL CUTS. A UNION BETWEEN TAILORING AND UTILITARIANISM WITH A BOHEMIAN OR TRANSGRESSIVE TOUCH. THE ART OF MIXING WILL TEASE AGAIN: STYLES, COLOURS AND OBVIOUSLY PRINTS WILL BE MIXED. ABSOLUTE FREEDOM EVEN IN DARING, MIXING WISELY ANIMAL STYLE CLASSICS WITH CONTRASTING CLASSIC FABRICS. A TREND WITH A DASH OF FRESH AND SUBTLE MESS THAT HAS ALWAYS WANTED TO DRESS WOMEN WITH A REBELLIOUS SPIRIT.

R13

GANNI

PREEN

PREEN

R13

R13

R13

CATWALKS ANALYSIS

curated by Maria Cristina Rossi

With over three decades of experience in the footwear and leather goods sector, she has worked with many international designers covering various roles, from product development to production, through the marketing and merchandising phases.

For over 12 years she has been responsible for Product Coordination and Development at Versace.

Now she is an independent professional who works with several companies as a marketing and merchandising consultant.

In Arsutoria she is responsible for leather and shoe design courses and is a member of the Trends Research team of Arsutoria.

curated by Georgia Roehe Turri

She has worked as a consultant for Italian and Brazilian companies developing footwear and leathergoods before launching her own footwear collection that in 2011 was chosen by Franca Sozzani to be part of the Italian Vogue Talents.

In Arsutoria she is a Member of the Trend Research Team.

Together they illustrated the following interpretation of the most interesting trends that characterised the catwalks, identifying stylistic features and the main volumes to be developed in future Spring/Summer collections.

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

LONG FRINGES

FRINGES, A DECORATIVE ELEMENT THAT HAS ALWAYS CONQUERED THE FASHION WORLD. THIS SEASON ON THE CATWALK, FRINGES HAVE BEEN REINTERPRETED IN AN EXTRAORDINARY WAY, WITH A VITALITY THAT GIVES MOVEMENT TO CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES. WE HAVE SEEN THEM IN THE MAXI VERSION, LONG AS TENTACLES OR VERY THIN AS FLYING THREADS.

BOTTEGA VENETA

BOTTEGA VENETA

DIOR

GABRIELA HEARST

JIL SANDER

PRADA

PRADA

LONG FRINGES

BOSIDENG

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

HALPERN

FENDI

BOSS

DIOR

BOTTEGA VENETA

BOTTEGA VENETA

GABRIELE COLANGELO

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

SOFT & WARM

WOOLS AND FELTS ARE THE MATERIALS USED AS WINNING CARDS FOR THIS WINTER SEASON. COMFORTING AND COMFORTABLE, THEY CREATE ENVELOPING, BUT AT THE SAME TIME DEFINED ARTICLES THAT EXPLORE NEW PROPORTIONS. VERY SOFT PROCESSED WOOLS ARE EXCELLENT FOR THOSE WHO ARE WILLING TO SPEND ON QUALITY AND SUSTAINABILITY.

DOLCE & GABBANA

DAWEI

DOLCE & GABBANA

JIL SANDER

DOLCE & GABBANA

MICHAEL KORS

ROKSANDA

CIVIDINI

ELIE SAAB

SOFT & WARM

DOLCE & GABBANA

• NOW ON CATWALKS •

BOTTEGA VENETA

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

FENDI

FENDI

DOLCE & GABBANA

ELIE SAAB

FENDI

DOLCE & GABBANA

HIGHLIGHTS

HIGHLIGHTS

OFF THE CHAIN CHAINS REMAIN “ON TREND” ALSO FOR NEXT YEAR AND BECOME INCREASINGLY PROTAGONISTS BUILDING THE IMAGE OF BAGS AND SHOES. THEY ARE GOLD OR SILVER PLATED, BUT ALWAYS OVERSTATED, WITH LARGE AND THICK METAL RINGS THAT STAND OUT.

N°21

BURBERRY

• HIGHLIGHTS •

JW ANDERSON

N°21

OFF-WHITE

LOUIS VUITTON

SACAI

HIGHLIGHTS

PLAYING WITH PATCHWORK A PLAY OF PATCHWORK TO ENHANCE THE VALUE OF LEATHER AND ITS PROCESSING THROUGH AN EXTRAORDINARY CRAFTSMANSHIP. PATCHWORK CAN BE VERY COLOURFUL OR COMBINED WITH WARMER TONES.

MARNI

RICHARD MALONE

MIU MIU

MIU MIU

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

CHLOÈ

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

HIGHLIGHTS

SECOND-SKIN BOOT OVER-THE-KNEE BOOTS WRAP THE LEG LIKE A SOCK. THE SOFTNESS OF LEATHER IS EMPHASISED BY NATURAL OILS AND WAXES IN A TANNING TREATMENT SIMILAR TO THAT USED FOR GLOVES.

BALMAIN

PROENZA SCHOULER

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

OFF-WHITE

VICTORIA BECKHAM

HIGHLIGHTS

QUILTED THE TIMELESS CLASSIC WEAVING TECHNIQUE MATELASSÉ CREATES A QUILTED EFFECT FOR A SOFT AND VOLUMINOUS APPEARANCE. IT CAN BE USED ON ANY KIND OF MATERIAL, BOTH LEATHER OR FABRIC AND OFTEN IDENTIFIES THE COMPANY’S TRADEMARK.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

AWAKE

• HIGHLIGHTS •

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

COPERNI

VALENTINO

TOD’S

VERSACE

HIGHLIGHTS

VINTAGE STYLE NEW IT BAGS OF SOME BRANDS, BUT THE CREATIVITY OF THE STYLE OFFICES DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM SOME MODELS, DETAILS, STRUCTURES AND MATERIALS THAT CHARACTERISED LEATHER GOODS OF THE 70S AND 80S.

CELINE

TORY BURCH

• HIGHLIGHTS •

BALMAIN

CELINE

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

TORY BURCH

DIOR

SHAPES AND FORMS AMONG THE LATEST CREATIONS PRESENTED WE IDENTIFIED SOME MODELS FOR BOTH MEN AND WOMEN THAT ARE EXTREMELY INTERESTING AND CAN PROVIDE INSPIRATION AND STARTING POINTS TO DEVELOP A COLLECTION OF FOOTWEAR AND LEATHER GOODS.

SHOES

DOUBLE MONK STRAP

CHLOÈ

MEN’S-INSPIRED DETAILS

A classic men’s-inspired double monk strap style with a chunky high heel.

HERMÈS

A classic double monk strap style with perforated details and woven toe with a contemporary leather flat sole with a rubber detail and crepe that wraps the upper.

FLATFORM BOOTS

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

OVERSIZE SOLES

Ankle boot with high and flat sole and wrap-around straps whose colours contrast the upper.

ROCHAS

A new interpretation of the combat boot style combined with a flatform covered with stitched welts all matching the upper.

FLATFORM BOOTS

STELLA MCCARTNEY

OVERSIZE SOLES

Chelsea boot with noteworthy sole in wood and rubber and super trunk platform.

VALENTINO

A simple Chelsea boot model with logo flatform sole.

A new way of combining and interpreting elegance with contrasts.

PLATFORM STYLES

CELINE

PEDESTAL-LIKE

Retro T-bar style with platform, the perfect balance for a bon ton combination.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

A super stylish second-skin boot style with a high platform, sinuous curves that create a refined rebellious appearance.

THIGH-HIGHT BOOTS

HAIDER ACKERMANN

SECOND SKIN

A more casual interpretation of the thigh-high boot in Western version for the day.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

The thigh-high style in its more female version with a remarkable and comfortable heel.

DERBY

LOUIS VUITTON

BREAKING THE CLASSIC

A new interpretation of the classic derby style with personalised details departing from the sole and embracing the shoe with velcro closure.

VALENTINO

ANKLE BOOTS

A simple ankle boot made contemporary by both a thick trunk rubber sole and a distinct strap with plastic closure.

DOUBLE MONKSTRAP

DOLCE & GABBANA

INNOVATIVE ELEGANCE

A new interpretation of the classic double monkstrap style with an interplay of straps.

DIOR

ANKLE-BOOT

An elegant ankle boot with personalised elastic band and detailed with a zipper.

BOOT

DOLCE & GABBANA

INNOVATIVE ELEGANCE

An elegant vintage-looking boot with trunk rubber sole.

HIKING STYLE SHOE

GIORGIO ARMANI

SPORTING EXPERIMENTS

An new elegant interpretation of the hiking style.

SHAPES AND FORMS AMONG THE LATEST CREATIONS PRESENTED WE IDENTIFIED SOME MODELS FOR BOTH MEN AND WOMEN THAT ARE EXTREMELY INTERESTING AND CAN PROVIDE INSPIRATION AND STARTING POINTS TO DEVELOP A COLLECTION OF FOOTWEAR AND LEATHER GOODS.

BAGS

SHOULDER BAGS

CHLOE

SMALL BUT NOT SO SMALL

An extremly compact small and bold shoulder bag rich in details.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

A perfect cross body shoulder bag with a semi-rigid and vintage-inspired structure

SOFT BAGS

BOTTEGA VENETA

TURNED INSIDE OUT

A very sophisticated hobo bag all-in-one with the shoulder strap.

MIU MIU

A clutch bag with a retro feel and leather frame.

SOFT BAGS

PRADA

TURNED INSIDE OUT

A soft and functional clutch bag, perfect for every moment of the day.

ROKSANDA

A bag soft as a pillow with a shoulder strap that can be tied around the wrist.

SMOOTH BAGS

DIOR

LINEARITY AND PERFECTION

A narrow gusset bag to be carried by hand or over the shoulder with convenient frame closure.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

A shoulder bag with a simple but impeccable structure.

SMOOTH BAGS

PRADA

LINEARITY AND PERFECTION

A bag with double handle recalling classics, but transmitting contemporary style.

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

Handbag with row edged and rigid structure to emphasise perfect geometry.

MEN’S BAGS

GIORGIO ARMANI

INNOVATIVE ELEGANCE

A soft bag made of fabric where the handle becomes a design detail.

GIORGIO ARMANI

An enjoyable small bag reminescent of a mini briefcase.

SHOPPING

HERMÈS

INNOVATIVE ELEGANCE

A shopping bag developed horizontally in very soft leather with drawstring closure.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

MEN’S BAGS

A mix between shoulder, cross body and small man’s bag.

A small, but very functional and precious accessory to wear with classic outfits.

BRIEFCASE

BERLUTI

INNOVATIVE ELEGANCE

A medium-sized, but multifunctional compact briefcase.

Handy both for a day of work and as 24 hour bag.

BACKPACK

FENDI

SPORTING EXPERIMENTS

A new streetwear backpack in nylon version.

VISION LAB

BY ARSUTORIA

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Vision Lab

by ARSUTORIA

How do you manage to make traditionally simple materials in terms of workmanship and appearance (minimalism) more elaborate and enriched by details capable of embellishing, intriguing, capturing people’s gaze (maximalism)? The exclusive and unpublished research of the VISION LAB project starts from this question. The collaboration between the Arsutoria research group and the companies in the sector that operate on the market every day has led to the creation of this variegated ‘collection’.

Digital printing, today capable of stamping already in the printing phase very special 3D effects directly on the material, is one of the processes able to perfectly embody the concept of Minimalism of Maximalists.

Coupling leather with a membrane that reproduces a 3D texture and a fabric base, confers the same effect.

All without ever forgetting the special attention dedicated to sustainable materials or that reveal unexpected anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties. As well as the innovation of particular materials: leather effect paper or food waste that reproduce a wooden effect.

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curated by Carlo Sorrenti Domino Ego

Carlo Sorrenti, a passionate researcher of innovative biomaterials, is a product manager and consultant in research and development, specialising in materials for the luxury sector. He is founder and C.E.O. of the DOMINO EGO company, which operates in Malta and deals with product management and supply chain development management in outsourcing, research and development consultancy, intellectual property and bio-economy in the luxury goods sector.

Already materials research & development manager of the Tod’s Group, he is professor in commodity economics at the European Institute of Design (I.E.D.) and has worked throughout his long career with leading international designers and product managers.

In collaboration with some of the most important companies of materials in the footwear and leather goods sector, he designed and developed for ARSUTORIA the new materials described on the following pages.

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GRAFENE LEATHER: AN ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIVIRUS SKIN CHARACTERISED BY PERFORATIONS, SADDLE STITCHING AND ELASTIC GATHERING BY CONCERIA NUVOLARI.

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08_Vision LAB.indd 190

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NATURELLE® CALFSKIN BY CONCERIA NUVOLARI WORKED WITH WATERJET CUT FOR A ZIP EFFECT DESIGN. VERY PARTICULAR IS THE RECYCLED EVA FLIP FLOP THAT USES A MIX OBTAINED FROM ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIVIRUS MATERIAL (BY BASE UP).

08_Vision LAB.indd 191

03/08/20 10:45

BLUE ITALY PROPOSES A LYCRA WITH A STRONG THREE-DIMENSIONAL EFFECT, OBTAINED THROUGH BULGES PLACED FOR AN INTERESTING GEOMETRIC GAME.

08_Vision LAB.indd 192

03/08/20 10:45

08_Vision LAB.indd 193

03/08/20 10:45

KIND LEATHER BY CONCERIA PRIANTE: AN EMBOSSED HIGH FREQUENCY PANEL WITH MICRO-DETAILS THAT ENHANCE THE LOGO.

08_Vision LAB.indd 194

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 195

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 196

03/08/20 10:46

ICAP LEATHER CHEM, APPLIES THE FINISHING OF THE UP-0 LAYER TO A MICROFIBRETO REACH A NAPPA EFFECT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 197

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 198

03/08/20 10:46

BLUE ITALY MANUFACTURES A MATERIAL THAT RECALLS THE DOWN EFFECT USING RECYCLED NYLON, CLOSED BY HEAT-SEAL.

08_Vision LAB.indd 199

03/08/20 10:46

THE BIODEGRADABLE NATURELLE® LAMBSKIN (CONCERIA NUVOLARI) IS PERFECT FOR GARMENTS THAT WANT TO INTERPRET TOTAL BLACK USING HEATSEALED PAINT EFFECTS, WITH NO SEAMS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 200

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 201

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 202

03/08/20 10:46

COTTON WITH FINISHING APPLICATION THROUGH UP-0 LAYER, NAPPA EFFECT (ICAP LEATHER CHEM).

08_Vision LAB.indd 203

03/08/20 10:46

KIND LEATHER ITEM BY CONCERIA PRIANTE WITH 3D TEXTURE EFFECT MADE

BY INSERTING NEOPRENE TO OBTAIN A SOFT TOUCH EFFECT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 204

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 205

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 206

03/08/20 10:46

BIODEGRADABLE NATURELLE® SUEDE (BY CONCERIA NUVOLARI) IS ENHANCED BY THE POLKA DOT PRINT. THE HEAT SEALING APPLICATION OF OTHER NATURELLE® NAPPA LEATHER ELEMENTS CREATES A 3D EFFECT WITH NO SEAMS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 207

03/08/20 10:46

08_Vision LAB.indd 208

03/08/20 10:46

XYZ...

BY BLUE ITALY A JERSEY OF RECYCLED YARNS WITH A MIX OF EMBOSSING AND HEAT SEALING.

08_Vision LAB.indd 209

03/08/20 10:46

FROM TRIO COMES A SPECKLED PRINT, WITH 3D EFFECT, THE RELIEF OF WHICH IS DIRECTLY CREATED BY DIGITAL PRINTING.

08_Vision LAB.indd 210

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 211

03/08/20 10:47

COTTON JERSEY WITH HEAT-SEALED NATURELLE® NAPPA LEATHER APPLICATION (CONCERIA NUVOLARI).

THE LEATHER CUTOUTS ARE OBTAINED THROUGH A WATERJET CUT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 212

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 213

03/08/20 10:47

LYCRA WITH 3D EFFECT AND FOIL DETAILS SET UP WITH PAINTED-EFFECT BY BLUE ITALY.

08_Vision LAB.indd 214

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 215

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 216

03/08/20 10:47

DEVELOPMENT OF THE KIND LEATHER LOGO (CONCERIA PRIANTE) OBTAINED BY MIXING HIGH FREQUENCY SET UP WITH DIGITAL PRINTING FOR A 3D EFFECT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 217

03/08/20 10:47

DEDICATED TO CLOTHING, THIS NATURELLE® LEATHER (CONCERIA NUVOLARI) FEATURES ROUNDED DETAILS OBTAINED BY HEAT SEALING, COMPLETELY FREE OF SEAMS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 218

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 219

03/08/20 10:47

THE WEDGE IS WRAPPED WITH A PANELL SET UP WITH A METALLIC EFFECT, THEN HEAT-SEALED WITH RUBBERISED MATERIAL, TO SIMULATE THE APPLICATION OF METAL ACCESSORIES (BY VANPLAST).

08_Vision LAB.indd 220

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 221

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 222

03/08/20 10:47

TRIO, THANKS TO THE PARTICULAR LASER CUTTING, OBTAINS A PARTICULAR ‘RAISED SCALE’ EFFECT ON THE CALFSKIN.

08_Vision LAB.indd 223

03/08/20 10:47

THE STUDDED EFFECT OF THE BACKGROUND LEATHER IS OBTAINED BY COUPLING PUNCHED HOLE CALFSKIN WITH A LAMINATED FOIL (TRIO).

08_Vision LAB.indd 224

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 225

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 226

03/08/20 10:47

HEAT SEALING SET UP WITH MICROFIBRE AND RUBBERISED FABRIC CHARACTERISE THE HEEL/ PLATEAU COMBINATION PROPOSED

BY VANPLAST. PLACED PERFORATIONS COMPLETE THE DESIGN.

08_Vision LAB.indd 227

03/08/20 10:47

08_Vision LAB.indd 228

03/08/20 10:48

THE WHITE BASE CALFSKIN BY KIND LEATHER (CONCERIA PRIANTE) PRESENTS A FASCINATING DIGITAL PRINT PUZZLE EFFECT. A BOTH STYLISH AND PLAYFUL ELEMENT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 229

03/08/20 10:48

THE PARTIAL APPLICATION OF A PAINT ON BIODEGRADABLE NATURELLE® NAPPA CREATES A REMARKABLE, CONTRASTING, TONE ON TONE TOUCH (CONCERIA NUVOLARI).

08_Vision LAB.indd 230

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 231

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 232

03/08/20 10:48

TRIO PROPOSES A PANEL FOR LEATHER GOODS IN CALFSKIN, CHARACTERISED BY LASERMADE GROOVES AND DOUBLED WITH HEAT-WELDED METAL MESH EFFECT FABRIC.

08_Vision LAB.indd 233

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 234

03/08/20 10:48

VERY SPECIAL BANDAGES THAT ALLOW THE DEVELOPMENT OF PLACED PRINTS CONFER A 3D EFFECT TO THE IMPORTANT VOLUME OF THE WEDGE, BY VANPLAST.

08_Vision LAB.indd 235

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 236

03/08/20 10:48

SOFT TOUCH EFFECT, THANKS TO THE NEOPRENE INSERTS, AND 3D EFFECT TEXTURES FOR THIS KIND LEATHER SKIN BY CONCERIA PRIANTE.

08_Vision LAB.indd 237

03/08/20 10:48

FOR TRIO THE KNITTED UPPER CAN BE INTERPRETED IN A TWO-COLOUR VERSION WITH HEAT-SEALED EDGING WITH RUBBER BAND.

08_Vision LAB.indd 238

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 239

03/08/20 10:48

TRIO PROPOSES A MATERIAL THAT ALLOWS YOU TO DEVELOP A BOOT WITH PLACED PRINT AND A ROUNDED EFFECT, FINISHED OFF AS A NAPPED ITEM WITH A SMOOTH AND SOFT TOUCH. A SIMILAR EFFECT IS OBTAINED FOR THE PANEL FOR LEATHER GOODS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 240

03/08/20 10:48

08_Vision LAB.indd 241

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 242

03/08/20 10:49

VANPLAST PROPOSES DUAL MATERIAL (RUBBERISED/TECHNICAL FABRIC) HEAT-SEALING TO OBTAIN A MACRO METAL TOOTH EFFECT, LIKE A ZIP.

08_Vision LAB.indd 243

03/08/20 10:49

BLUE ITALY: MULTI-MATERIALS LASER CUT AND RE-ASSEMBLED BY HAND, JOINED TOGETHER THROUGH THE APPLICATION OF A STUD. THE FINAL EFFECT IS A LUXURIOUS TWINE/MESH.

08_Vision LAB.indd 244

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 245

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 246

03/08/20 10:49

VINYL EFFECT MATERIALS LASER CUT AND ASSEMBLED BY HAND FOR A PARTICULAR MULTICOLOUR INTERTWINING EFFECT (BLUE ITALY).

08_Vision LAB.indd 247

03/08/20 10:49

SUSTAINABLE WOOD IS EMBROIDERED AND LASERED TO THEN BE APPLIED WITH MOSAIC TECHNIQUE ON BIO YARN BY BLUE ITALY. THE BASE UP SOLES ARE MADE WITH RECYCLED RUBBERS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 248

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 249

03/08/20 10:49

LYCRA COUPLED TO CREATE A DOUBLE FACE EFFECT. SUBSEQUENTLY CARVED IT GIVES A PLAYFUL DESIGN, FLOWERY EFFECT. THE PISTILS ARE APPLIED WITH VELCRO WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO MODIFY THE PATTERN AS YOU LIKE (BLUE ITALY).

08_Vision LAB.indd 250

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 251

03/08/20 10:49

THE LYCRA BASE SUPPORTS THE APPLICATION OF BIODEGRADABLE NATURELLE® NAPPA LEATHER STRIPS (CONCERIA NUVOLARI) FOR AN OPTICAL/ GEOMETRIC EFFECT ALSO SUGGESTED BY THE CONTRAST BETWEEN THE MATERIALS. THE BASE UP SOLES ARE MADE WITH RECYCLED RUBBERS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 252

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 253

03/08/20 10:49

A RED MICROFIBRE COUPLED WITH REFLECTIVE ENGRAVED MATERIALS FOR A PATTERNING EFFECT WITH NO SEAMS BY TRIO.

08_Vision LAB.indd 254

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 255

03/08/20 10:49

08_Vision LAB.indd 256

03/08/20 10:50

KIND LEATHER UPPER (CONCERIA PRIANTE) CREATED IN HIGH FREQUENCY, FOR SNEAKERS WITH A 3D EFFECT WITH NO SEAMS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 257

03/08/20 10:50

A TRANSPARENT TPU, EMBOSSED WITH A DROP EFFECT, IS HEAT-SEALED ON DIGITAL PRINTING LYCRA FOR A VITRIFIED EFFECT (TRIO).

08_Vision LAB.indd 258

03/08/20 10:50

08_Vision LAB.indd 259

03/08/20 10:50

08_Vision LAB.indd 260

03/08/20 10:50

TRIO STUDIES A VELVET UPPER WITH A THREE-DIMENSIONAL EFFECT IMAGINED FOR BOOTS, OR PANELS FOR LEATHER GOODS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 261

03/08/20 10:50

3D EFFECT ON LYCRA BASE, SUBSEQUENTLY HAND-BLEACHED, FOR A SPORTY, HANDCRAFTED, DELAVÉ EFFECT (BY TRIO).

08_Vision LAB.indd 262

03/08/20 10:50

08_Vision LAB.indd 263

03/08/20 10:50

TRIO’S 3D EFFECT UPPER IS PERFECT FOR THE WORLD OF FOOTWEAR. IT IS MADE ON SUEDE AND ILLUMINATED BY GLITTER DETAILS.

08_Vision LAB.indd 264

03/08/20 10:50

08_Vision LAB.indd 265

03/08/20 10:50

08_Vision LAB.indd 266

03/08/20 10:50

LAMINATED NAPPA LEATHER

BY CONCERIA NUVOLARI WITH MANUAL PLISSÉ EFFECT, OBTAINED THROUGH HEAT-SEALING.

08_Vision LAB.indd 267

03/08/20 10:51

A VERY EVIDENT GRAIN FOR THE CALFSKIN PROPOSED BY CONCERIA PRIANTE (KIND LEATHER LINE) WHICH ADDS TO THE STRENGTH OF THE BRIGHT RED HUE THE CONTRAST OF BLACK OBTAINED WITH DIGITAL PRINTING, FOR A SHINY/OPAQUE EFFECT AND AN ANIMAL PRINT TONE (PYTHON AND LEOPARD).

08_Vision LAB.indd 268

03/08/20 10:51

08_Vision LAB.indd 269

03/08/20 10:51

KIND LEATHER (CONCERIA PRIANTE) GIVES LIFE TO FINE-GRAINED CALFSKIN OVERLAPPING A DIGITAL ANIMAL PRINT WITH A SHADING GLOSSY 3D EFFECT.

08_Vision LAB.indd 270

03/08/20 10:51

08_Vision LAB.indd 271

03/08/20 10:51

08_Vision LAB.indd 272

03/08/20 10:51

THE CALFSKIN HAS A PROMINENT GRAIN THAT ENHANCES THE ANIMAL PATTERN APPLIED BY 3D DIGITAL PRINTING WITH GLOSSY EFFECT INK. KIND LEATHER (CONCERIA PRIANTE).

08_Vision LAB.indd 273

03/08/20 10:51

COLORS PALETTE

DRAMA TONES

PANTONE® 18-1137 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1643 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1404 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1544 TCX

DRAMATIC CHERRY REDS, ROSE, DUSTY GREY, COLD BROWNS, OXIDATED GOLD

PANTONE® 19-3438 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1718 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1555 TCX

PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE, Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013 The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed.

COLOUR reproduction may not match PANTONE® -identified textile solid COLOUR standard.

Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate COLOUR standards

CONCEPTUAL NATURALS

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

PANTONE® 14-0002 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4247 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4057 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1246 TCX

COLD NORDIC TONES. BLUE, AUBERGINE, COPPER, MUD.

PANTONE® 19-0618 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1703 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4028 TCX

PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE, Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013 The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed.

COLOUR reproduction may not match PANTONE® -identified textile solid COLOUR standard.

Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate COLOUR standards

OBSCURE BLACKS

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

PANTONE® 15-4305 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0910 TCX

PANTONE® 19-5004 TCX

PANTONE® 11-0601 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4102 TCX

DARK AND BOLD BLACKS PLUS TONE DOWN GREIGE PANTONE® 19-5708 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4007 TCX

PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE, Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013 The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed.

COLOUR reproduction may not match PANTONE® -identified textile solid COLOUR standard.

Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate COLOUR standards

STONES & METALS

ARTISSIMA TORINO 2019

PANTONE® 16-1010 TCX

PANTONE® 15-0646 TCX

PANTONE® 14-0626 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3803 TCX

CHLOROPHYLL YELLOW AND GREENS. WINTER DRY SAND

PANTONE® 18-0316 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0910 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1048 TCX

PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE, Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013 The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed.

COLOUR reproduction may not match PANTONE® -identified textile solid COLOUR standard.

Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate COLOUR standards

COLOR STORIES

FULL COLOR PALETTE

PANTONE® 11-0601 TCX

PANTONE® 14-0626 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1718 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1544 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1643 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3438 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1555 TCX

PANTONE® 14-0002 TCX

PANTONE® 16-1010 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1137 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1246 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1048 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1703 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1404 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0910 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4007 TCX

PANTONE® 15-0643 TCX

PANTONE® 18-0316 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0618 TCX

PANTONE® 19-5004 TCX

PANTONE® 19-5708 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4102 TCX

PANTONE® 15-4305 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4247 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4057 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4028 TCX

COLOR DETAILS

NEUTRALS

PANTONE® 11-0601 TCX

PANTONE® 14-4102 TCX

PANTONE® 14-0002 TCX

PANTONE® 15-4305 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1703 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1404 TCX

PANTONE® 16-1010 TCX

ACCENTS

PANTONE® 15-0646 TCX

PANTONE® 18-0316 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1544 TCX

PANTONE® 17-1718 TCX

PANTONE® 19-3438 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1643 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1246 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4057 TCX

PANTONE® 18-4247 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4028 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0910 TCX

PANTONE® 19-5708 TCX

PANTONE® 19-4007 TCX

PANTONE® 19-0618 TCX

PANTONE® 18-1048 TCX

PANTONE® 19-5004 TCX

PANTONE® 19-1555 TCX

DOMINANTS

COLOR COMBINATION

FULL COLOUR PALETTE