Sunday Times (December 2017)

L I G H T-

travel TE X T Leana Schoeman

IN G THE WAY 72

COMMUNICATION LINE BY NACHO CARBONELL AT KATRINAKERK VAN ABBE MUSEUM

Our Living editor visits vibey Eindhoven, the design capital of The Netherlands, for Dutch Design week

18 SEPTEMBER PLEIN, DE BLOB ON LEFT & PHILLIPS LICHTTOREN

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A BRIEF HISTORY 1232 Eindhoven receives official city status 1486 The city is plundered and burned by Guelders troops 1502 City’s reconstruction completed 1554 Fires destroy 75% of city structures 1583 Spanish troops capture the city 1629 Eindhoven becomes part of The Netherlands 1760 The Industrial Revolution starts and has a major impact on the city’s growth 1891 Philips settles in Eindhoven and soon rises to become the leader in lighting, engineering, and electronics 1910 Philips Stadium opens 1921 Lichttoren built 1936 Van Abbe museum opens 1947 Design Academy Eindhoven established 1970 De Bijenkof department store completed 1997 Philips headquarters relocated to Amsterdam 2002 Dutch Design Week begins 2006 Glow Festival Eindhoven begins 2010 Piet Hein Eek studio opens 2015 Population rises to 223 220 (city regions) and 753 426 (metro regions) 2017 Eindhoven’s economic growth surpasses the four biggest cities in the Netherlands

indhoven has a new “vibe”: or rather, three vibes. These vibes are part of the city branding conceptualised by world-famous Dutch designer Remco van de Craats. He tried to capture the city through the medium of vibes. The vibes represent the energy created by Eindhoven’s people; their ideas; and a starting point for joint solutions, rather than individual conquests. I often heard people using the phrase “sharing the vibe” during my visit, and the meaning soon made sense.

On arrival in Eindhoven, this vibe was evident in the immediate sense of community I felt and just how friendly and helpful people are, especially as I tend to head confidently in the opposite direction of where I am supposed to be going. The city is alive with energy and crowds of design fundis and uber-trendy design students roaming the streets dressed in their sleek way.

As I started making my way towards the many recommended spots during Dutch Design Week, I realised that this is not your typical Dutch city with picturesque old buildings lining canals, but a rather upbeat hub of modern architecture and urban coolness.

A few days in, meeting and mingling with the loTh e b r i e f t i me I sp e n t i n cals and visiting a wide selection of design-related venues set in a variety of incredible, industrial t h e se su r ro u n d i n g s a l t e re d m y warehouse spaces, I realised the impact the arrival of Philips had on this town’s structure, aesthetic, and se n se o f t h e wo r l d I l i v e i n its people. The advanced level of design and the con- a n d ma d e m e re a l i se t h a t t h i s fident, distinctive, and collective approach resulted vibe could certainly be in a unique community. Undoubtedly, it is these qualities that set the people of Eindhoven apart from so me t h i n g we sh o u l d a l l a d o p t the rest of the design world. fo r t h e g re a t e r g o o d They seem to have an advanced understanding of the need to work together — to enrich and support each other — regardless of their individual levels of education and success. Even though this sense of community is an ancient principle, they seem to have continuously revived and reinvented it, and it has become an integral part of their way of life. The brief time I spent in these surroundings altered my sense of the world I live in and made me realise that this vibe could certainly be something we should all adopt for the greater good.

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#SHARETHEVIBE

MY TO-DO LIST

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JOOST AND KIKI

RADIO R OYA A L

KAZERNE

Joost and Kiki’s new design lab and store is located within a former Philips design lab.

It showcases a great selection of their recent works: their unique and individual approach to design is quite special and a must-see.

As you enter this industrial dining space you get to experience and appreciate the factory elements of an old Philips machine room. The food is down to earth and truly delicious, and the venue is perfect for intimate dinners or larger parties. radioroyaal.be

INNTEL HOTELS ART EINDHOVEN

Hurksestraat 19

joostandkiki.nl

Pa ra d i j s l a a n 8

Kazerne is set within a warehouse that used to serve as military barracks, and boasts an open kitchen at centre, surrounded by tables and art installations.

The absence of music and the friendly hum of patrons savouring the delicious food make for an almost theatrical feel. kazerne.com

Ketelhuisplein 10

Lichttoren 22

This city-centre hotel forms part of the Philips light tower. It has spacious and beautiful interiors, with great service and dedicated staff. All the rooms are individually decorated and overlook the central area. inntelhotelsarteindhoven.nl

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STRIJP AREA

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CENTRAL AREA

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DE BLOB

THE HAPPINESS CAFÉ

COFFEELAB UC & BRANDSTORE EINDHOVEN

BERLIN

Septemberplein 18

On entering the city, you will see a gigantic organically shaped steel and glass building that serves as the central point and entrance to “The Admirant” shopping area. The building is currently occupied by Sissy Boy, a local brand showcasing an incredible selection of fashion and homeware. sissy-boy.com

Nieuwe Emmasingel 9

The Happiness Café is abuzz with crowds of health nuts and hipsters. It’s a great spot for getting your fix of healthy, hearty meals and beverages while roaming on free WiFi. I highly recommend the cupcakes and coffee for a quick pick-me-up. thehappinesscafe.nl

Stationsplein 17

Brandstore is the gateway to the city and offers information, brochures, and maps to help you find your way around the city.

It shares a space with Coffeelab UC, the ideal pitstop for delicious coffee. thisiseindhoven.com ; coffeelab.nl

Kleine Berg 40

This stylish little bar with a rustic industrial interior and casual and cool atmosphere, offers a great selection of gins, gin cocktails, wine and delicious bar snacks – the perfect antidote to a weary mind and tired feet. berlin-bar5611.nl

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PHILIPS MUSEUM

PIET HEIN EEK

VIELGUT

Piet Hein Eek’s showroom and gallery is located in a former Philips complex in the design hub of Strijp-R. Here you can look at the designer’s latest work and indulge in a delicious lunch or dinner.

This charming space is curated with a selection of design and décor objects by the likes of Piet Hein Eek. It also sells ranges of conscious fashion from authentic and sustainable labels.

Emmasingel 31

A visit to this museum is a must for an in-depth-history of the Philips empire. The beautifully curated spaces demonstrate just how much the company has contributed, and continues to contribute, to the world of electronics. philipsmuseum.com

Halvemaanstraat 30

Nieuwe Emmasingel 38

vielgut.nl

pietheineek.nl

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4 8 HUTSPOT

Halvemaanstraat 30

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This design shop with a difference is set within a 700m2 space filled with local design inspired by the city’s constant supply of young and innovative design talent. The small café inside the store has a great selection of delicious bites by The Happiness Café, and great coffee, of course. hutspot.nl

9 HOMESTOCK

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Nieuwe Emmasingel 30

This is truly one of the best décor shops, even though it is jam-packed and a bit overwhelming.

It has the best selection of goods and furniture imaginable: I wanted everything, but left with nothing.

With two direct evening flights, from Cape Town and OR Tambo, I would strongly suggest this option. Flying with KLM is such a pleasure, as it not only gets you into the swing of all things Dutch, but the attention to detail sets this airline apart from the rest. The ergonomically designed seats are comfortable and with the additional “economy comfort” option boasting 10cm more legroom and double the normal recline, it’s a definite plus for long-haul flights. The world-class, in-flight, video-on-demand entertainment system offers endless hours of fun, and the meals and snacks are surprisingly delicious, making the 12 or so hours fly by. In recent years, KLM World Business Class has introduced several new concepts to enhance on-board atmosphere and comfort by collaborating with prominent Dutch designers such as Hella Jongerius, Marcel Wanders, and Victor & Rolf. The recent introduction of a variety of menu options designed in collaboration with young European chefs and wines chosen by renowned sommeliers add to the one-of-akind on-board luxury. klm.com

homestock.nl

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D E B I J E N KO R F

VA N A B B E MUSEUM

DOWNTOWN GOURMET MARKET

Piazza 1

A four-storey, high-end department store set in the most beautiful building designed by Gio Ponti in 1969. It houses a great selection of fashion and homeware, and is located in the central area. debijenkorg.nl

Bilderdijklaan 10

Eindhoven’s museum of contemporary art is worth a visit, with regular exhibitions and a permanent collection of art by the likes of Kandinsky, Mondriaan, Chagall, and Picasso. The restaurant is a great lunch spot, overlooking a pond with ref lections of its architecture. vanabbemuseum.nl

Smalle Haven 2-14

This recently opened market is quite the hotspot. It brings together a hand-picked selection of cuisine from around the world in a casual space inspired by street-food trucks. The truff le burger with a local beer is a must. downtowngournmetmarket.com

The transport system is the best I have come across, and a pleasure to use. The clear signage and information feed, the use of a top-up card system, and a super-efficient timetable makes it is so convenient and easy to navigate your way through this picturesque county. Bicycle rentals are available at various points and cycling is a great way to see the city.

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