THE MAYO NEWS 25
TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014
Den Bosch tour
Nuenen roses
Modern art - Eindhoven style
Den Bosch canal tour
All pics: Neill O’Neill
Going Dutch
in Eindhoven TRAVEL FEATURE NEILL O'NEILL MANAGING EDITOR
T
HE ever-increasing routes from Ireland West Airport Knock have opened up a world of opportunity for local holiday-makers and curious travellers, and Ryanair’s new service to Eindhoven in the beautiful and bustling province of Brabant, is giving a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘Going Dutch’. Think of The Netherlands (it is politically incorrect to refer to the country as Holland as Bill O’Herlihy found out during the World
Cup. Holland refers only to the country’s two biggest provinces) and we imagine windmills, tulips, clogs, stoned tourists enjoying liberal smoking laws and a legal sex industry. Of course the Dutch have all those things, and there are plenty who travel to the country of almost 17 million inhabitants, which remarkably, is only a little over half the size of the Republic of Ireland in area, to enjoy such freedoms. However, on a recent trip to Eindhoven and the surrounding Brabant region, a media delegation from the west of Ireland were awakened to what is really on offer in the original ‘Low Country’.
INNOVATIVE PEOPLE ONE of the most striking aspects across the south of The Netherlands was the ambitious, educated and progressive nature of its
people. Eindhoven, for so long considered to be in the shadow of Amsterdam, is a world centre of innovation and design. The city has a tradition of creation and industrial success oozing from its pores, and there is no escaping from the pioneering legacy of global behemoths like Philips, established in Eindhoven in 1891, in what was arguably the seminal moment in the city’s history. The impact their establishment had on Eindhoven cannot be overstated, transforming it from a village to the fifth largest city in The Netherlands, and a true powerhouse of global industry. Eindhoven has a thriving city centre with pedestrian streets, packed with shops, bars and international restaurants. The word cosmopolitan, often used to describe more banal locations, serves as an appropriate description, as Eindhoven is a cocktail of many ingredients. From being home to industrial and technological giants
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26 THE MAYO NEWS
TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014
Old Philips buildings
Catching a lift in Nuenen
Den Bosch
Irish journalist in Nuenen
Piet Hein Eek
Jenny McCudden of The Sligo Champion at Van Gogh’s home
Piet Hein Eek
Mural made entirely from spice in Eindgoven
>> from page 25 and a true international centre of design and innovation, it can also claim an educated population, excellent infrastructure, a rich cultural and, in particular, artistic heritage, museums, a successful sporting legacy, nightlife, children’s amenities and much much more. The same is true of the wider province of Brabant, of which Eindhoven is one of the main cities.
B
ombed heavily during the second world war, Eindhoven has risen from the ashes like a proverbial phoenix, and, while some of its historic core remains, it is essentially a modern city, with stand-out architecturally-designed buildings, a beating heart and an enthusiastic population. It is obvious that in the post-war years, instead of attempting to recreate the past, Eindhoven saw the merit of looking towards the future, building a modern city. It was a template for progression and innovation, that is very much the essence of what Eindhoven is today.
MEMORABLE TRIP OUR delegation consisted of journalists from five regional newspapers on the Western seaboard, and Roscommon, and with introductions swiftly conducted by Donal Healy at IWAK, we were on board a Ryanair 737 brimming with eager travellers for the short 90 minute flight to Eindhoven. The fact that the plane was jam packed on each leg, particularly with Dutch citizens, bodes well for the future success of this route, and the work being undertaken abroad to promote IWAK and Ireland’s western region. Our primary hosts for the trip, Pim Sybesma and Erik Van Ger-
‘On yer bike’’ For all of their many, many virtues, I don’t think the Dutch quite understood the level of amusement and laughter that Harry Walsh from the Donegal News, along with Michael Daly from The Donegal Democrat, and I, garnered from the fact thatt my hired bicycle took a ce near mysterious leave of absence
Nuenen
Piet Hein Eek
win, work for the province of Brabant and the City of Eindhoven itself, and though promoting tourism and extolling the virtues of a region that has given so much to the world, yet not quite received the level of international recognition deserving of their toil, may seem like a hard task, both region and city are in exceptionally good hands.
CRADLE OF MODERN MUSIC WE had a packed itinerary, which on the first evening focused on the lure of festivals in the region, and how the global cradle of modern dance music has carved out a niche around some of its home grown talent. By default, we tend to stereotype dance music with negative images in Ireland, but in Brabant, it is akin to our traditional music. There are several companies which plan festivals around the genre, and with icons of the industry like Tiesto and Hardwall native to the region, there is no shortage of interest in the events, which look spectacular and extraordinarily well organised. We were treated to a presentation from Tim Klomp Bueters (Wish Outdoor), Laura van der Voort and Siem Nozza from Ex-trema Outdoor and Maghiel Koekkoek (Breda Live), and the only way to describe what they do is that they create and execute with aplomb, and without any hint of trouble, professionally-run, fun, and relatively cheap to attend festivals for tens of thousands of people every year. Imagine a mass Céilí in a small rural town, with all the trimmings, 60,000 in attendance and 1,000 volunteers working to ensure smooth operation. Well, multiply the atmosphere, elation and aesthetics by two, and you’re beginning to get the picture. What they do is remarkably impressive, and the fact that our delegation was older than all those behind these different events gives
the foo football stadium, meaning the last le leg of our Eindhoven City tou tour ended with me hitching a lift on the back of the bike be being piloted by Harry, b breaking a phone along the w way and nearly being kkneecapped by his dodgy st steering! Seriously though, cy cycling is the best way to get arou around the city. Tens of thousands of locals do it daily, a and can’t all be wrong.
Eindhoven
an insight into what was alluded to earlier about a young, progressive and entrepreneurial-minded population in Eindhoven and Brabant. The elder statesmen in our group, from Donegal, were particularly bowled over by this. More surprises would follow!
VAN GOGH Van Gogh MOST people will have heard statue of Vincent van Gogh, seen a in Nuenen ropey copy of ‘Sunflowers’ or maybe even looked to a ‘starry night’ and shed a tear to Don McClean’s ballad ‘Vincent’ about the troubled Dutch artist. On day two, despite having suffered from first night syndrome, we got Van Gogh full and frontal, and you couldn’t but be intrigued by the life story of this destitute, depressed and doomed maestro. Such was his turmoil that recognised by few, and appreciated by fewer still, suicide at 37 was a release for the clergyman’s son. However, taking a stroll around his quaint home village of Nuenen, just beyond the city limits of Eindhoven, you could see his ghost everywhere, from the home in which he grew up, to the small church in which his father ministered, and the sights from where he drew inspiration for some of his most famous paintings, particularly the
Centre of the creative world Aside from excelling in the design stakes, and with a record number of registered patents, far exceeding any other city, Forbes describes Eindhoven as ‘hands-down the most inventive city in the world’. For several years now, the Intelligent Community Forum has ranked Eindhoven
as one of the world’s most intelligent communities. One of their recent inventions - the 3D printer - is something that no amount of explaining could help us get our heads around (there is one currently printing a real house in The Netherlands). However, the limitless potential for its use makes it clear to see how it might yet change the world, and all from a small city that also gave us the CD and numerous other creations that
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TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014
Relaxing in Den Bosch
The Irish delagation and their dutch guides, including Erik Van Gerwin on the right, in Eindhoven
house, still inhabited, where peering in the window, he saw a peasant family peeling potatoes. His story is truly haunting, and the Nuenen tour, including for us, an al fresco lunch at a still working watermill he immortalised in colour, is a must do.
DEN BOSCH THAT afternoon we were treated to a tour of another of Brabant’s must see cities, the historic s-Hertogenbosch, known colloquially, and less of a mouthful, as Den Bosch. In contrast with Eindhoven’s pace and modernity, this authentic medieval city is full of gothic architecture, narrow cobbled streets, and with the sun of early June making a lengthy appearance, the striking and charming city of Jheronimus (Hieronymus) Bosch, the famous artist of the 1400’s, was in the full, but relaxing swing, of high summer. A museum tour and a visit to the Cathedral, complete with its famous angle statue, denim clad and talking on a mobile phone (now if that isn’t contemporary thinking nothing is) on the roof, and stained glass window depicting the 9/11 attack on the World Trade Centre, were followed by an ice cream in the bustling Market Square, a Bossche Bol (typical regional treat - don’t ask just
we encounter in our daily lives. One Dutch company, ASML, which invents and develops complex technology for high-tech lithography machines, has 12,000 employees on its campus in Eindhoven alone. Remarkably, this includes 800 Irish graduates, who, according to two we chanced upon along our travels, were recruited, primarily as engineers, before they had even graduated from college in Ireland.
Lunch in unique surroundings in Eindhoven
keep indulging!) and a rather different type of boat trip - a Binnendieze Canal tour under the historic city - which took us back in time and gave a unique perspective of Den Bosch, complete with its sprawling rampart, fairytale turrets and many towers.
ENJOYING EINDHOVEN THE next day we dedicated ourselves to all things Eindhoven, cycling after Erik Van Gerwin and Sandra Megens through the streets of the city, like children after the pied piper of Hamelin. Where once there was industrial production on a large scale, old buildings now serve as theaters, exhibition spaces, design offices and workshops, craft houses, enterprise incubation centres, ultra modern apartments and even restaurants. The clever use of whole swathes of the city make for an interesting juxtaposition between Einhoven’s rich industrial past and the prosperous future it is clearly heading towards. In whole districts, the aesthetically sterile façade of twentieth century Philips production buildings remains uncompromised, a tribute to the city’s heady days of yore. Yet, these conceal a world of creative and modern wonder, like a massive work of contemporary art and creativity, lurking behind a dusty old cover. Their minimalist approach to utilising now defunct buildings in once thriving industrial heartlands is mind blowing, with rooftop gardens offering unparalleled vistas over the city and one restaurant, uniquely, built into the vast open space of an old industrial unit. It was like dining in a silent engine room, where hunks of old machinery and piping with bolts the size of car wheels were left in situ, with tables nestled snugly under arching, rusting girders. Paint missing off an old wall was seen as a feature here, rather than a problem. It was refreshing and inspiring.
Social scene Eindhoven is packed full of pubs, clubs and all manner of venues, and with English spoken as freely as at home, you will never encounter a problem in such a friendly place. The city has a great variety to offer, from traditional Dutch pubs to hip and trendy bars to Irish pubs with sporting events shown live. Pubs and bars stay open until 2am from Sunday to Thursday, and until 4am on Friday
and Saturday nights. ‘Stratumseind’ is the longest and most vibrant pub street in The Netherlands. Prices are comparative to home, and the atmosphere is electric. Check out the very aptly named ‘Small Bar’ for good natured banter with the locals. As a gastro destination, Brabant Province and Eindhoven offer a reflection of their international make up, with all cuisines and palettes catered for in a multitude of cosy venues. You will never go hungry, even if you ‘Go Dutch’ on the bill!
There was a large indoor swing, a badminton court made of steel mesh, and features too numerous to mention. Eating was a secondary concern, as it had been the first evening, when we dined in a city-centre venue where everything in the restaurant was for sale. It was, literally, eating in a showroom, a simply brilliant concept, and there were no menus, you went to the kitchen and picked your dinner with the chef. At home, over-zealous HSE inspectors would have a field day writing citations and closing down such places, but we all wondered and eventually agreed, that it is the restrictive and over legislative approach of our own nation that leaves us devoid of any chance of creating such a novel venue on these shores. Shame really, and no wonder there was no sign of recession or austerity in The Netherlands, where their approach to the same challenges and problems we face is to invest in infrastructure and in their country and people, and to try and remain buoyant and prosperous in times of great economic hardship. On the face of it, so far so good for them. A visit to the large and very impressive modern gallery of art, opened especially to accommodate us, a trip to the jaw-dropping workshop and headquarters of internationally-famous designer Piet Hein EEK, a behind-the-scenes tour of the city centre stadium that is home to former European and UEFA Cup winners PSV Eindhoven (Philips Sports Club) and a sumptuous feast, were followed by a sojourn to Erik’s local hostelry to complete a real eye opening and very memorable day out in Eindhoven. With such a short, reasonably priced and accessible flight, consider the unique prospect of visiting the past and the future on one p, consider Eindhoven and the Brabant Province. trip, Forr ideas on what to do in Eindhoven visit www.eindhoven365.nl
Flights Ryanair operates twice weekly flights eland West to Eindhoven from Ireland rting every Tuesday Airport Knock, departing irport is just ten and Saturday. The airport oven City with minutes from Eindhoven o neighbouring cities convenient access to such as Amsterdam and Brussels. There are now 28 international destinations available from Ireland West Airport Knock with leading airlines Aer Lingus, Germanwings, Flybe and Ryanair
as well as tour operator partners Concorde Travel, Sunway Holidays, Joe Walsh Tours and Paul Claffey Tours. For more information visit their website www. irelandwestairport.com or follow them on Facebook.com/irelandwestknock or on twitter @irelandwest