issue n° 11 December 2019 ∙ January ∙ February 2020
the best and enjoy e v li , re o expl
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of the city
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INSIDE emotion exhibition
01.11.19 01.03.20 SANTO STEFANO AL PONTE CATTEDRALE DELL’IMMAGINE FIRENZE info e reservations +39 055 217418 insidemagritte.com
René Magritte, Il figlio dell’uomo, particolare, 1964. Olio su tela, 116 x 89 cm. Collezione privata. / Photothèque R. Magritte /Adagp Images, Paris, / SCALA, Florence © 2018 C. Herscovici / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New Yorkre, 1964. Olio su tela, 116 x 89 cm. Collezione privata.
E col patrocinio di:
Welcome We should never take life for granted; think of the emotional experience of a solitary walk in the deep snow, in the silence of the mountains or even in a city park. Hugging in the rain, the wind ruffling our hair and making us shiver. Because we love the winter, though perhaps a bit less than the summer, we must admit. But it embraces wonderful moments, like Christmas, New Year, exchanging gifts, family dinners. However, on a less romantic note, we’d like to focus this time on something that concerns us all. Climate change is evolving at an incredible pace. We have only twelve years to reverse the trend and stave off the increase in global warming, which could completely devastate the world as we know it. With arctic winters, flash floods, atypical hailstorms, sudden tidal waves – veritable cataclysms that are already taking place. We, in chorus with millions of others, beg you to take on board what’s happening and help to reverse the trend, to change the behavior that is poisoning and killing the home we live in, Earth. We all have to get involved, or else one day our beloved Florence may no longer be the place we recognize today. Elitism Florence: the quarterly magazine focused on discovering and experiencing the city and its magnificence. What to see, where to eat, trendy bars, historical places, architecture, shops, clubs with complete address lists and all the advice you need to enjoy the city the way Florentines do. And more, interviews with locals, details on the surroundings, highlights on what to buy, fun facts, and all of the top events you don’t want to miss out on in town.
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails” - Mark Twain –
DESIGN + COVER Sally Studio CONTRIBUTORS Cinzia Azzerboni, Cristina Tedde, Serena Becagli, Marta Matteini, Liliana Antoniucci PHOTO CREDITS Giulia Vezzosi TRANSLATIONS NTL traduzioni PRINTING IGV s.r.l. - Piazza Nasoni, 4 San Giovanni Valdarno (AR) PUBLISHER F Society SAS Via del Leone 37, Firenze p.iva 06722440481 Aut.Trib. Firenze N. 6048 del 14 Aprile 2017 WRITE US AT General : info@readelitism.com Advertising : adv@readelitism.com ONLINE CONTENT www.readelitism.com
@elitismflorence #elitismflorence
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Nazanin Rastan aka Mafreshou is a persian illustrator ,Print maker and virtual reality artist based in Italy. She studied Graphic of arts in the accademy of fine arts of Florence.She enjoys ethching, engraving and printmaking as much as digital drawing and making 360° illustrations in VR.
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VICE - EDITOR Francesca Cellini
You can follow us on: @elitismflorence
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EDITOR Francesca Querci
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In partnership with: Windows On Italy Doorways to Italy Apartments Florence Family Apartments Madeinitaly Holiday Home Dot Florence bb Charme Suite Florence FLOspirit Holiday Itaco Florence Concierge What about a house in Florence? Florence Luxury Rent Incredible Tuscany haloria.com Acacia Firenze www.torremannellisuites.it
ELITISM FLORENCE There’s beauty all around you Issue n° 11 December 2019 | January | February 2020 Quarterly ~ Florence ~ Italy
Le informazioni diffuse hanno finalità divulgative, le fonti utilizzate riflettono le esperienze e le opinioni degli Autori. I link citati e le immagini tratte da altri siti sono proprietà dei rispettivi Soggetti. L’Editore, che ha posto ogni cura nel citare correttamente la fonte, si dichiara disponibile a pubblicare eventuali rettifiche per involontarie citazioni improprie. L’Editore e gli Autori di Elitism declinano ogni responsabilità per uso improprio delle informazioni riportate o da errori relativi al loro contenuto.
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10 TO DO Five amazing things to do in Florence we selected and guarantee for you 11 TO SEE First things you have to see once you arrive
18 TEN MINUTES WITH Lorenzo Barducci
20 WHERE TO EAT
The staff of Elitism presents you the top 3 restaurants of the month selected after a ďŹ ne and accurate test
21 WHERE TO DRINK
Best wines and drinks around town.. raise your glass with style
con tents December 2019 January February 2020
22 STYLE ICON Franco Nero
24 SUGGESTED BY Elena Barthel
30 NO YOU CAN’T MISS IT
Places you will never forget
36 OUR SELECTION Our selection of beautiful products
40 THIS IS SO CONTEMPORARY Stella Battaglia
con tents December 2019 January February 2020
46 AGENDA
From events and festivals to attractions and tours, find out what’s going on in Florence
Florence Factory shop via dei Neri 6/8 r, Firenze Opening Monday 13.30 - 19.30 Thusday - Sunday 10.30 - 19.30
www.florencefactory.it
Via Tornabuoni
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You cannot miss the recently renewed Mercato Centrale, a real gastronomic melting pot, for those who want to taste emotions. The Loggia del Porcellino where you can buy genuine leather products and caress the famous luck charm bronze boar muzzle at the side of the market.
Arno River
Enjoy the Diladdarno discovering San Frediano, snooping around workshops, antiques and art galleries. Piazza Santo Spirito is the right place for a typical dinner or a late evening drink. Piazza del Carmine with its mixed between sacred and profane atmosphere is another must-see.
· The Rive Gauche
To do
· Not just Art
Go for some top-level shopping in Via Tornabuoni: Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Tiffany, and many more are there waiting to fuel your vanity. Discover vintage jewels in Piazza Strozzi at Barducci Jewelry. Design and crafts lovers are welcome in Via della Spada where a tour is a must.
· Tuscan Food
Taste tradition: a Lampredotto sandwich in Piazza de’Nerli, Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Cambi restaurant, extraordinary Pappa al Pomodoro at Santo Bevitore. Want some ice cream? Sorbetteria in Piazza Tasso and the world-famous Vivoli near Piazza Santa Croce are waiting for you.
Il ratto delle Sabine
Loggia del Porcellino
· Markets Tour
Second Italian museum for number of visitors, the Accademia displays the largest amount of Michelangelo’s sculptures in the world. A must-see, where you can find the original Michelangelo’s David and probably experience the Stendhal Syndrome. Remember to book in advance!
· Galleria dell’Accademia
IL Dumo
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Piazzale Michelangelo
Ponte Vecchio
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Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of the city’s civil and administrative authority. Sight is surrounded by ancient marble, bronze and stone statues, like Donatello’s Marzocco, the lion leaning on the coat of arms, and the Nettuno fountain. Here, the most famous gallery: the Uffizi.
Links the main part of the historical city centre with the “Diladdarno”, with artisan goldsmiths that once were butcher shops lining the path to the scenic terraces. The Vasari Corridor, that crosses the Arno at Ponte Vecchio, was built in 1565.
· Ponte Vecchio
To see
Palazzo Pitti
· Piazza della Signoria
Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, Campanile di Giotto and Battistero; with its white Carrara marble front, hallowed in the year 1436, the Duomo dominates the whole square and Giotto’s Campanile. The Cathedral’s dome, finished with red bricks, outstands everything around.
· Piazza Duomo
Piazza della Signoria
A 5 minute walk to embrace absolute beauty: the city sight from Piazzale Michelangelo. You can walk the ancient stairways “Rampe del Poggi” starting from San Niccolò to climb up toward Piazzale. Once there just a few more steps to fall in love with the Church of San Miniato.
· Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato
Residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, home to the Medici, the Lorena and the Savoia families. The palace hosts an articulated compound of different galleries and museums: Palatina Gallery, Appartamenti Monumentali, Modern Art Gallery, Boboli Garden.
· Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Garden
Campanile di Giotto
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Eccellenza Storica Fiorentina Historical Excellence of Florence
Firenze • Lungarno A.Vespucci 22/r info@harrysbarfirenze.it
+39 055 2396700
www.harrysbarfirenze.it
American bar · Restaurant · Lounge
ULTRA Ultra opened in 1979 on Via Nazionale and moved to its current location a few years ago. It has always offered clean-cut, long-lasting and no-frills menswear, not forgetting either style or quality, and is distinguished by a combination of practicality and elegance, with a nod to the world of workwear. //Via dei Serragli, 5/r
LUISA VIA ROMA Since 1930, LuisaViaRoma has been acclaimed as one of the go-to stores for luxury high-end fashion. It is located bang in the center of Florence, and its website, luisaviaroma.com, online since 1999, is always the first with its selection of the very latest and most exclusive designer collections. //Via Roma 19 21r www.luisaviaroma.com
Dress Well & Accessories BARDUCCI ATELIER Smack in the historical heart of Florence, at Number 1, Piazza Strozzi, we find l’Atelier Barducci, a new concept in jewelry retail that has evolved on the top floor of Palazzo Mattei. Lorenzo Barducci, the owner of the atelier, is passionate about his work and he puts every effort into the selection of the very finest products. //Piazza degli Strozzi, 1r www.barducci.com
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ion tral Stat n e C e h t utes from sso, > 3 min he Fortezza da Ba . o and t the Duom m o r f s e t 5 minu
>wonderful indoor garden! > We ha ve a offers an huge selection of d package special s fo cocktail parties, ex r ceremonies, clusive e vents.
Piazza della Indipendenza, 3 Firenze w w w. o s t e r i a a l 3 . c o m
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JA N U A R Y
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The city lights up with F-Light the Florence Light Festival l a n d i n g
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M o o n F l i g h t : t h e 5 0 ye a rs s i n ce t h e m o o n i n s p i re t h e n ew e d i t i o n o f t h e fe st i va l o f
l i g h t s
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rom 8 December to 6 January, “F-Light,” the Florence Light Festival, will once again redesign the nocturnal façades of the city of Florence. From Ponte Vecchio to Piazza Santa Maria Novella, from Palazzo Medici Riccardi to the Oltrarno, not to mention the city’s Towers and Gateways, which, together with the districts outside the historic center, will enjoy special attention while being transformed into LIGHT through video-mapping: projections, light shows and art installations will characterize the most famous monuments of the city. In addition, exhibitions, educational activities, special visits to museums, shows and cultural meetings. This year’s theme will be the fiftieth anniversary of the moon landing. This, symbol of the unstoppable curiosity that moves man, will be the fil rouge running through the lighting effects of this edition of F-Light. On 8 December, the Mayor, after greetings in front of the Christmas tree in the courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio at 4:30 pm, will go to Piazza Duomo for the lighting of the imposing fir tree in front of the cathedral, followed by the lighting of the Christmas tree in Piazza della Repubblica realized by Michelangelo Pistoletto. On 14 December, the trees positioned in Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Piazza SS. Annunziata, entrusted respectively to Mimmo Paladino and Domenico Bianchi, will be lit up. Another location of the F-Light Festival is the Museo Novecento: the external loggia will host the artistic installation curated by Watt Studio, immersing visitors among beams of color and inviting them to discover the exhibitions in progress. Particularly relevant for the thematic connection with F-Light, Lucciole per Lanterne by Wang Yuyang, curated by Lorenzo Bruni. To note, two other exhibitions, both curated by Sergio Risaliti and hosted in Palazzo Vecchio. Novecento Lunare, in the Museum of Palazzo Vecchio from 28 November to 15 January and Marco (I Mark) by Grazia Toderi: a set of seven video projections, a new production designed specifically for the Sala d’Arme, where it will be visible from 28 November to 6 January. For the complete program see >> http://www.flightfirenze.it/ Artistic direction Sergio Risaliti | Promoted by the City of Florence | Organization MUS.E SILFIspa, the public lighting company of Florence, joins F-LIGHT with architectural and scenic lighting. Rampe del Poggi, Loggia degli Innocenti, Ponte S.Trinita, Historical Gates of the city, church of S.Miniato al Monte: all of them will be lighted up with white and colored lights that enhance their beauty.
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10 minutes with..
LO R E N Z O B A R D U C C I OW N E R O F B A R D U C C I AT E L I E R
What do you like about Florence? Unquestionably Brunelleschi’s dome. Both in the morning, when I can see it emerge from the mist from my windows on the Fiesole hill, and when I look at it from my atelier and it looks as if I can reach out and touch it. . Where do you like having breakfast and what do you enjoy eating? I have the first espresso of the day in Piazza San Pancrazio, where the Bati family, with their sharp and poignant manners, are the quintessence of Florentine reliability. I love eating everything seasonal, especially when cooked in a simple and traditional manner. What jewelry are you most fond of? The sapphire ring my father gave to my mother for their engagement and which I in turn gave my wife when we got engaged. How romantic, right? What is your recommendation for an unforgettable gift? Any item made by a craftsman reflects a unique flair and passion. Impossible for me to choose one. 18 readelitism.com
Why did you chose to get married on the top floor of a building and not on the street? Our craftsmanship required a more intimate, warm and personal approach. This is why we switched from a shop to an atelier. What is your favorite shop in Florence? Any shop where they know me and where I’m familiar with the people. And possibly one that has been around a long time. These are my favorite. What sets a Florentine apart from every other person on this planet? Florentines identify themselves with their city. Florence is the most beautiful city in the world. How can we not be different from all other human beings? What does it mean to you to be a jeweler? Being a jeweler means understanding the wishes of your client so you can create an emotion that can be worn with joy and satisfaction every day. www.barducci.com
Where to Eat
Enjoying food is one of the best pleasures of life. The staff of Elitism presents you the top 3 restaurants of the month, selected after a fine and accurate test.
NICCHIETTA IN CALIMARUZZA
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La Nicchietta came from an original idea by Michele, its owner, who, thanks to years of experience in the sector, decided to kick off this adventure in taste in the heart of Florence, just 50 meters from Piazza della Signoria. Our focus is on sourcing the very finest produce. Our philosophy is the desire to provide the customer with a unique taste experience, something we take great pride in. // Via Calimaruzza 12r www.labuchettaincalimaruzza.it
IL VEZZO
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A blend of tradition and modernity, this tiny, cozy, yet smart, eatery in the heart of Florence is guaranteed to provide new sensations and tastes. Prime quality, superfresh ingredients are sourced day by day for our delectable, unforgettable dishes, which always hit the right spot. // Via Guelfa, 58r www.ilvezzofirenze.it
SATORI
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An exquisite interior, top quality food. The play between hot and cold food here is reflected in the contrasts of the quirky/classic interior. The go-to place for anyone who wants to taste real traditional Japanese cuisine, real close to Florence downtown. // Via Antonio Pacinotti 5r www.satorirestaurant.it
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Where to Drink
Places to taste fine wines and artistic cocktails. Our top 3 selection, with some alcoholic degree.
RASPUTIN Located in Piazza San Pancrazio, this 1930s-style bar serves the best cocktails in town, all made exclusively with Italian products – like their Negroni, here mixologized with zingy BiancoSarti liquor. //Borgo Tegolaio, 21/r
AMBLE Take your pick here – you can eat, chat, drink and eye up the fantastic quirky and vintage pieces salvaged from the past. Great fresh food & vintage furniture. // Piazzetta dei Del Bene, 7/a www.amble.it
CAFFÈ GILLI Gilli is the oldest cafe in the city of Florence. Founded over 270 years ago by a Swiss family in a Florence that was still under Medici rule, it started life as a “Sweet breads store” close to the cathedral. It moved to Via degli Speziali in the mid-nineteenth century, and then to what is now Piazza della Repubblica. Just the place for aperitifs in a sumptuous setting at sundowner time. // Via Roma, 1r
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By Cinzia Azzerboni
But the big success came after he got the memorable role of the lonely gunfighter in Sergio Corbucci’s Django.
Not only very handsome, well built, with very intense penetrating blue eyes, but also an excellent professionist, one of our Italian most original and eclettic actor. He was a painting photographer when he was noticed by director John Huston who chose him for the role of “Abel” in La Bibbia (1966) as Franco Nero is reporting “I was working as a set photographer when John Huston had seen a photo of me and said, “That’s the face I want”.
N E R O
Not only a talented actor and a great professionist , also a truly generous man with a very big heart who works for charitable organizations.
At the beginning of the 80s, he also began producing, writing and directing. Between films, he participated in various theatrical events. He has received many awards for his artistic merits and in 1992 the knighthood of the Italian Republic. In 2011, he was honored by Brunel University of London with the honorary degree of doctor of Letters honoris causa and, in Toronto Canada, with a star on the Walk of Fame.
It was in 1967, thanks to the role of Lancelot on the set of Camelot, when he met the love of his life, the great British actress Vanessa Redgrave and fell in love with her. It is during the filming that they started their romantic involvement, which was to become an everending relationship, even though they separated for many years, during which they both had relationships with other people. But regardless of him dating actresses such as Catherine Deneuve, Goldie Hawn and Ursula Andress, his heart was always only for Vanessa, and in fact their love never ended or diminished and in 1970 they reunited and finally married on 31 December 2006. They are still together to these days.
He has since appeared in more than 200 movies filmed in Italy and around the world. He worked with the top European directors from Carlo Lizzani, Damiano Damiani, Luigi Zampa, Luis Buñuel, Elio Petri, Michael Cacoyannis, Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Claude Chabrol, , Marco Bellocchio and many others. Among the movies : The Bible: In the Beginning... (1966), Camelot (1967) for which he received a nomination for the Golden Globe, The Day of the Owl (1968), The Mercenary (1968), Battle of Neretva (1969), Tristana (1970), Compañeros (1970), Confessions of a Police Captain (1971), Keoma (1976), Hitch-Hike (1977), Force 10 from Navarone (1978), Enter the Ninja (1981), Die Hard 2 (1990), Letters to Juliet (2010) and John Wick: Chapter 2 (2017). He also voiced the character of Uncle Topolino in the animated film Cars 2 (2011) directed by John Lasseter.
F R A N C O
And then in 2012 FrancoNero made a cameo appearance in Quentin Tarantino’s “Django Unchained” playing in one scene together with Jamie Foxx, who was starring Django Freeman in the film while in the scene Franco Nero plays the original Django, an Italian Mandingo Fighter manager. “Nero’s Django then questions Foxx’s Django about how his name is spelled, and asks him to spell it, referencing a scene from Nero’s role as Django in the original Django film. Upon learning that their names are spelled the same way, Nero’s Django says “I know” to Foxx’s Django.”
And as to the cultural impact that Django had, this is what Franco Nero himself said and reported: (his personal quote) “I had no idea it would turn out to be so special. It wasn’t just a success; it was a phenomenon. Everywhere I go people shout “Django” at me. Even today, as I am working in Brazil, kids call me Django. Japan, they won’t even put my name on movie posters, they put “Django”. In Germany, they call all my movies “Django”; I did a great movie about the Sicilian mafia [Il giorno della civetta (1968)] and they called it “Django in the Mafia”. [Il cacciatore di squali (1979)] they called “Django Django”. They say: “Well, it’s your problem.”
Franco Nero is a very well known Italian actor, famous all over the world for his role as the title character in Sergio Corbucci’s Spaghetti Western movie “Django” (1966), his first leading role , and a role that he embodied again over two decades later in Nello Rossati’s “Django Strikes Again”.
Blue eyed Franco Nero, unforgettable Django.
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A nice place to go drinking, in the evening , after dinner Il torrino Santa Rosa that feels more Catalan than florentine.
Where do you like to go for breakfast? At home in my garden when possible.
Favourite restaurants I like to go eat at the family run trattorie like Ruggero and Sabatino. The food is the result of simple receipts and the appreciation of good quality seasonal local ingredients. The atmosphere is informal and confidential.
What do you like most about Florence? The proximity of the city with the countryside. It is a town where we can still immagine a symbiotic relationship between agriculture and urban life.
I am an architect and a teacher. I like to see architecture as an act of optimism towards social justice, beauty, and quality. My favorite spear time is in my printing shop where I enjoy inking forms and messages on paper.
E L E N A
www.casabarthel.com
A funny thing that you’ve discovered about Florentines I am florentine! More that discovering their habits people laughs at mine (very florentine). The best example is tha way I eat pinzimonio artichoke. They can’t believe I enjoy almost all of it including the leg!
Your favourite shop I do not have a favorite shop but I love every single stop and shop at the sant ambrogio market.
Your favourite Piazza Piazza santo spirito where I hope the local municipality will soon forbid the car parking on the sagrato’s right hand side. I think santo spirito church stairs are the best public space in the planet!
B A R T H E L
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AWE SO ME
1 MONTH TO GO Get ready to download the newest & the coolest app to live and love Florence like a local.
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Prato
Museo del tessuto
T
he city of Prato is famous throughout the world for its textile production and is one of the key industrial areas of Europe, to the extent that it used to be called the “Manchester of Tuscany”. This was on account of the boldness, intelligence and creative spirit of so many local people who paved the way for the “regeneration” of wool cloth, first recycling it and then putting it back in the supply chain as a new product.
its 8,500 sq. m. surface, is one the most vibrant cultural facilities in the city. Inside there are collections of over 600 textiles from the Renaissance to the nineteenth century, which have been enriched by the addition of over 7,000 exhibits, including Italian and European silks, embroidery and lace, ethnic fabrics and sacred garments and vestments.
All this ingenuity and effort brought work and affluence not just to the inhabitants of Prato, but also to the nearby villages, where factories and warehouses sprang up. They used to utilise extremely noisy machinery, but succeeded, nevertheless, in producing rolls of textiles that became well-known worldwide.
The Museum is also a testament to history with its collection of textile tools, machines and sample books from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, coming from historic companies in the region.
In order not to lose this rich industrial and technical heritage, the Museo del Tessuto [Textile Museum] was set up, the only one of its kind, devoted to textile history and technology; indeed, it might be seen as a retrieval of the cultural identity of Prato and its past. The Museum holds samples and documents from the fifth century up to today and, with its 3,600 sq. m. of exhibition space, it is the most dynamic Italian cultural centre focusing on the appreciation of textile art and production, both ancient and modern. It was founded in 1975. set within the Tullio Buzzi Technical Institute, but is now located in the former premises of Campolmi, a historically significant textile mill situated inside the medieval walls of the city. Following a major restoration project, it now also houses the civic library (“A.Lazzerini”) and the whole architectural complex, with 28 readelitism.com
In the exhibition, there is the Historical Textiles Room, in which various collections of ancient textiles are rotated; the Materials and Processes Area, an interactive, ludic space where the public can make a hands-on acquaintance with the various production processes; the Prato City Textile Room, centred on the local textile history; and the Prato and the Fashion System Room, dealing with recent transformations in the city. The itinerary concludes with two spacious rooms for Temporary Exhibitions and Events, which offer an intensive calendar of activities and programmes aimed not just at students, but anyone, whatever their age. It looks like Prato, armed with the dynamism of its past, is still determined to make its mark in the future... Marta Matteini
Piazza Strozzi 1 | 055 238 2878 | www.barducci.com |
No, you can’t miss it Church of Santo Stefano al Ponte >> Not far from the Ponte Vecchio, this Church -Auditorium is the result of numerous alterations carried out over the centuries. Among the most significant are the seventeenth-century renovations that remodeled the interior, creating a highly original architecture made up of broken lines, devoid of any curve. Wonderful works of art are housed within, including the beautiful staircase with a marble balustrade designed by Buontalenti and dating to 1574. The church’s excellent acoustics, its location in the historic center of Florence as well as its magnificently decorated interior, make this a unique center of “edutainment”. In fact, since 2015, this space has hosted some marvelous full-immersion multimedia exhibitions. Via Gino Capponi >> This street is lined with noble palaces, including the Capponi Farinola and important gardens such as the Semplici and the San Clemente Gardens. At the end of the street is the Convent of the Capponcina, bordering the Gherardesca Gardens. Piazzetta Dè Cimatori >> Here are craft shops, some old-style shops and the famous Antico Trippaio, which has been serving up tripe and lampredotto for about 80 years. Colonna dell’Abbondanza (Column of Abundance) >> Located in Piazza della Repubblica, it is also called Colonna della Dovizia (Column of Wealth). Dating back to 1431, it is considered to be the true heart of the city. The statue at the top represents Abundance. Chiostro degli Angeli (Cloister of the Angels) >> In Viale Amendola, this intimate space is part of the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, representing an intersection of some the greatest Renaissance minds, such as that of Brunelleschi.
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Photo credits: Vesela Vaclavikova
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Piazza San Marco
Giardino dei Semplici
Galleria Dell’ Accademia
S.M. Novella Central Train Station
Mercato Centrale
Piazza dell’Unità
Piazza della S.S. Annunziata
San Lorenzo
Piazza S. Maria Novella Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiore
Palazzo Strozzi
Piazza Goldoni Ponte Alla Carraia
Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza San Firenze
Piazza S. Trinita Ponte S. Trinita
Mercato Nuovo
Piazza della Signoria
Piazza Santa Croce
Galleria Degli Uffizi Piazza Ponte Mentana Vecchio
Piazza Santo Spirito
Arn o
Piazza Dei Pitti Palazzo Pitti Giardino di Boboli
Piazza De’ Mozzi
Ponte Alle Grazie
ei
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Giardino della Giardino della Gherardesca Gherardesca
a
Sinagoga Sinagoga
Piazza Piazza S.S. Ambrogio Ambrogio
Piazza Piazza DeiCiompi Ciompi Dei
e
A no Arrrn Torre Torre G.G. Poggi Poggi Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo
Get lost in Florence · Santa Croce Impossible not to stop to admire this gorgeous Church, that gives its name to the neighborhood. Walking the narrow streets and the small squares in the area you will find old workshops and small but precious museums like the Museo Horne and the Museo di Storia della Scienza. The first one displays a significant collection of paintings and sculptures collected by the art critic Horne itself, who lived there. The second is kind of a shrine to Galileo Galilei and hosts his telescopes and the lenses he used to discover the largest moons of Jupiter. Among the many peculiarities of this area, Michelangelo Buonarroti lived for a short period of his life right in Via Ghibellina. Time for the best ice cream in the world now, Vivoli! · Santo Spirito and San Frediano Workshops, goldsmiths, restorers and antiques shops make this two adjacent districts the area of the city in which still lives the old Florentine craftsmanship tradition. A visit to Church of Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza del Cestello and to the Church of San Frediano in Cestello is in order. Walking through typical cobblestone small alleys named like the old jobs once exerted in the streets themselves (via dei Tessitori, via dei Cardatori, etc…) you can reach Piazza del Carmine. Don’t let the unfinished front side mislead you! Inside the Church one of the greatest Renaissance masterpieces, the Cappella Brancacci, especially known for the astonishing fresco “Expulsion from the garden of Eden” painted by Masaccio. · Duomo and San Lorenzo San Lorenzo was one of the districts where the Medici family lived and where you can discover unbelievable beauties, strolling around the lanes maze. After the Duomo named Santa Maria del Fiore, the main city Cathedral, you can find the Cappelle Medicee, with their gorgeous marble and stone walls cladding and the first Medici palace, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, at number one in via Larga (now via Cavour). If you are hungry, the best for a quick meal is the Mercato Centrale, that offers a wide food and drinks choice in a fine steel, glass and cast-iron Art Nouveau building.
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· Sant’Ambrogio Lively, dynamic and always hot! The Sant’Ambrogio area usually surprises first time visitors. The main square, with the Sant’ambrogio Church, is one of the oldest in town and it is one of the locals favorite night-life places because of the plenty of clubs, bars, bistros and restaurants all around. A must-see is the Sant’Ambrogio covered Market where you can taste some of the traditional Tuscan products like “la Pattona”. This district is also home to the Synagogue and the Jewish Museum.
· San Niccolò It is not a district, not even a block, it is Via San Niccolò! In the Diladdarno is one of the oldest streets, and takes its name from San Nicola di Mira to whom the Church of San Niccolò Oltrarno is dedicated. The area is rich of notable historical buildings like the Palazzo del Rosso from the 17th century, the Palazzo Demidoff-Amici and the Palazzo GianniLucchesi-Vegni that shows on its facade a plaque to the memory of the Russian director Andrej Tarkovskij and his Florentine days. At number 99 Palazzo Stiozzi-Ridolfi, attributed to Baccio D’Agnolo, and at 107 the decorated front side of Palazzo Nasi-Quartesi with paintings from the 15th century.
· San Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo The San Miniato al Monte Abbey is one of the most beautiful Romanesque Churches of Florence and is sacred to San Miniato, one of the first Florentine martyrs. Once you exit the Church, there you see it! The magnificence and the heart of Florence... Forte Belvedere, Santa Croce, the Arno, the Bridges...with the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello and the Badia Fiorentina bell tower standing out among the breathtaking panorama and, north-side, the smooth hills of Fiesole and Settignano. Piazzale Michelangelo can be reached from Viale Michelangelo, a lovely tree-lined avenue that climbs the hillside, or from the old stoop of the Rampe di San Niccolò.
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From Florence WITH
LOVE
In 1989, the store relocated to Borgo Santissimi Apostoli20/r and since 2011 it has been designated an Italian Historical Enterprise, not just to promote the quality of the pieces created but also to celebrate its 110 years of business. Antico Setificio Fiorentino is a beacon of worldwide excellence that celebrates the art of silk-making. Founded in 1786 and boosted by the efforts of a sizable group of Florentine nobles, the silk mill is located in the Oltrarno neighborhood, the beating heart of the Florentine artisan tradition. Not just silk, but history too – this is what a visitor breathes in as he/she enters the atelier. An eighteenth-century warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci is still busy at work today producing antique weaves using a hand-tinting technique. Their silks have been used in the curtains in Palazzo Madama, Rome and the splendid costumes of the participants in the Palio of Siena. Cristina Tedde
All the places mentioned are repositories of knowledge, art and, above all, passion. People driven by the passion to create and to hand down precious traditions. Places that leave an indelible trace in the visitor’s mind. Vivian Saskia Wittmer is a dynamic, smiling shoemaker, one of the few females in a man’s domain. Originally from Berlin, she has been living in Florence for fifteen years. Her workshop is in the heart of the city and visitors are presented with a white wall against which a cascade of bespoke shoes dangle. Shelves are packed with countless models in all shapes and designs. Saskia takes care of everything, from the creative process to the actual production. Each of her creations is a work of art, the result of the close relationship she builds up with her customers, seeking to meet their every requirement. Pestelli Gioiellerie is an artistic landmark that was founded in 1908, when Edoardo Pestelli took over a jewelry store in Via Strozzi after training professionally with the historic jewelers Marchesini. The store has gone from strength to strength, generation by generation. It collaborates with the finest artisan goldsmiths with the aim of upholding the qualities of high-end craftsmanship, the pride and boast of Florentine production. 34 readelitism.com
FLORENCE V BARCELONA
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It’s Showtime!
WE BROKE DOWN THE CITY’S VERY BEST THEATERS, BASED ON WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR. Odeon Original Sound | Piazza Strozzi | The Odeon theater has been making cinema history in Florence since the early twentieth century. Its great hall in the historic center has played host to all the greatest films, the most illustrious guests, and the biggest events, and today the cinema/theater is regarded as a unique example of the city’s architectural heritage of the twenties. The Odeon Original Sound program screens original language films every day. www.odeonfirenze.com La Compagnia | Via Cavour 50 | La Compagnia began life as the Cinema Modernissimo in 1921 and was later remodeled by architect Adolfo Natalini between 1984 and 1987. The theater screens documentaries: films celebrating the power of the true story, a truly modern form of cinema with deep historical roots. It is also home to international festivals, and a wide range of events beyond the cinematic, including exhibitions, meetings and conferences. www.cinemalacompagnia.it Spazio Alfieri | Via dell’Ulivo 8 | Spazio Alfieri is a space in the heart of Florence for people to meet and experience the arts: cinema, theater, music, food, design and the visual arts. Starting out by showing films in the original language with Italian subtitles as a staple of its regular cinema programming, it later branched out to also include the reverse: Italian films with English subtitles. www.spazioalfieri.it Cinema Stensen | Viale Don Minzoni | A space where the young staff carefully curate a program of independent films that promote constructive dialogue with the audience; a welcoming space that offers a café, bookshop, and places to stop and chat. The focus here is on quality, in terms of film as well as the concept and the space itself, encouraging diversity by offering the most suitable
program of times and dates for each film: the program is tailored to the audience rather than the other way around. Best film festivals Festival dei Popoli The Festival dei Popoli is a film festival organized by the non-profit organization of the same name, founded in 1959 in Florence by a group of social science scholars. Over its half a century of activity, the Festival has shown some of the finest international documentaries on its screens and has introduced its audience to some of the greatest filmmakers in the field. November @Cinema Odeon Lo Schermo dell’Arte Lo Schermo dell’Arte Film Festival is an international project dedicated to exploring and fostering the relationship between contemporary art and cinema through the presentation of films and installations, training schemes, residencies for international artists, and the production and distribution of artists’ films. Begun in Florence in 2008, over the years it has collaborated with numerous institutions, art centers, academies and universities, both Italian and foreign. November @La Compagnia River to River The River to River Florence Indian Film Festival, founded in Florence in 2001 under the patronage of the Indian Embassy, is the first festival outside India dedicated entirely to Indian cinema. Combining a passion for India with a passion for film, the organizers chose a name that would represent the flow of cultures, ideas and cinema, from one river to another: from the Ganges to the Arno, River to River. December @Cinema Odeon
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Sculpture and perspective
Stella Battaglia
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So contemporary by Serena Becagli
A
rt and science can peacefully co-exist under the same roof. In Stella Battaglia’s sculpture studio, we find a combination of worlds that are so much closer than we could have ever imagined. Art is inspiration, intuition, passion, but it’s also technique, skill, research.
Perspective, anamorphosis, optical distortions. These are but a few of the keywords for diving deep into the world of Stella Battaglia. It is no coincidence that the sculptor has collaborated with institutions like the Museo Galileo - Istituto e Museo di Storia della Scienza, creating – alongside Gianni Miglietta – installations for several national and international exhibitions (starting in 2001 with Nel segno di Masaccio. L’invenzione della Prospettiva, Uffizi Gallery) and educational workshops dedicated to the rapport between vision and representation. She has also had important collaborations with the Department of Architecture at the University of Florence and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, to whom she offered support regarding the studies of the perspective in the bas-reliefs on Donatello’s pulpits in the Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence. Donatello was one of the fathers of the Florentine Renaissance and one of the most renowned sculptors of his time. He invented the “stiacciato” technique, which requires only millimetres of difference in thickness across the sculpted surface to create an illusion of depth. Stella Battaglia trained at the Accademia di Belle Arti in Florence, but for many years she worked in the world of dance and theatre. This is why she has always sought movement in her sculptures, with works that are at times veritable multimedia installations. Her artworks are like games for the eyes, illusions in which the artist does not create sculptures that stand alone, but which instead seek continuous exchange with the spectator, who remains engaged and forced to move within the space in order to capture the totality and discover the game that the artist is conveying. Stella’s studio in via dei Serragli, a lively street in a spirited neighbourhood, where many studios and artisan workshops can be found. Here, “know-how” reigns and skilled hands shape the materials, bestowing them with new life. This is an industrious neighbourhood, full of history and its traces. Over the centuries, it has been a crossroads for great architects and artists wanting to offer a contribution to the construction of the Basilica of Santo Spirito and Palazzo Pitti, leaving an indelible and tangible mark on this city. In this part of the Oltrarno, you can still hear the sounds of the tools as they create. I was particularly struck by an artwork that perhaps best conveys the idea of this confluence of various disciplines: Un momento di scompiglio nella serie di Fibonacci, Scultura d’ombra, 2018. Fibonacci (Pisa, circa 1170 – Pisa, circa 1242) is considered one of the greatest mathematicians in history, known first and foremost for the series of numbers that he identified and defined as the “Fibonacci Sequence” – 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89 ... – in which every number, except for the first two, is the sum of the two preceding ones. For those who follow contemporary art, it is clear to see the constant attention that Mario Merz, one of the most important artists of Arte Povera, paid to the Pisan mathematician’s numerical sequence. I believe that it was not easy for Stella Battaglia to dedicate her art to Fibonacci with Merz’s work having come before her. Stella found a solution by turning to her background, creating a work in which the conceptual aspect intersects perfectly with an optical illusion. The piece features wooden numbers that, through precise calculations of perspective and tricks of the light, project the word FIBONACCI onto the wall. It is wonderful to immerse yourself in her studio on via dei Serragli and to listen to the story of each artwork, discovering the artist’s life in every anecdote and encounter, key moments of choices and inspirations. You can also find works by Stella Battaglia in Palazzo Vecchio: an impressive and curious study of perspective and perception, perhaps tied to one of those anecdotes that came to define a stroll Stella took through the streets of Rome when she was a young adult, ending up in the courtyard of Palazzo Spada. Here, in 1653, the architect Borromini created a masterpiece of trompe-l’œil in the entrance to the courtyard: the columns decrease in height as they progress into the background and the pavement rises, creating an optical illusion that makes the gallery seem longer than it really is. It was perhaps that encounter and that immersion into the world of dynamic, unexpected architecture that led Stella Battaglia to decide to embark on this career path, in which discipline, knowledge, and inspiration create that sense of wonder even in the eyes of those captivated by her work. Her artworks are on display in Paris (France) at the Galerie BOA; Shanghai (China) at the Wison Art Museum; and Vero Beach (Florida, USA) at the gallery ACA Art Concept Alternative. readelitism.com
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Kiss Me!
The most famous Italian red lips since 1970. by Cinzia Azzerboni
B
OCCA by Gufram the famous red sofa shaped as sensual and provocative giant lips, an object of cult, one of the most iconic design piece, a mix between design and pop art, cinema and sex symbol. The lips came from the sensual hot red lips of Hollywood stars and divas, but mainly from those of the American actress Mae West, in fact surreal artist Salvador Dalì painted her portrait in 1935, and so it happens that years later her voluptuos full lips were of inspiration to be translated from the surrealist optical illusion into a flaming red inviting sofa. BOCCA was sometimes called “ Marylin” after Marylin Monroe and her perennially lacquered red mouth, but also because of the coincidence of the private client, who ordered the furnishing project to Studio 65 for her health centre, an Italian lady whose name was indeed Marylin and she used red lipstick too. It is said that “The secret of its natural beauty lies in the fact that its two corners are slightly different,exactly as human lips would be”. BOCCA is one of the most loved, and imitated products of Italian home furniture, the original by Gufram an Interior Design Italian brand. Over these last decades BOCCA has been towering and standing on many magazine covers, first ever published on Life and then Vogue, Harper’s Baazar, Elle and Vanity Fair. As a much desired top model, it has been photographed by some among the greatest photographers as Richard Avedon, David Lachapelle and Rankin and was also immortalized together with some of the most appreciated style Icons as Elsa Schiapparelli, Marisa Berenson, Lisa Fonssagrives, Claudia Cardinale, Heidi Klum, Alicia Silverstone, Anne Hathaway, Carmen Electra.
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BOCCA also seen in some of the most original and unconventional houses around the world and protagonist in the international tours of music Stars such as Beyoncé, Kylie Minogue and Katy Perry. Exhibited in important international museums such as the Louvre and the Musee des Art Decoratifs in Paris, the Museum of Applied Art and Science di Sydney and the Design Museum in Monaco. The red BOCCA is the cult one, but in more recent times, in 2008, Gufram decided to add also two new versions, the “Pink Lady”, with a new fashionable fuchsia colour lipstick and the “Dark Lady” rock and gothic all black with an oversize piercing and then to celebrate its 50 years anniversary in 2016, Gufram made a special limited series of only fifty GOLD BOCCA.
La dolce vita DESIGN EDITION
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BISCOTTI DI PRATO CON PISTACCHI
SERVES
6/8
METHOD
OVEN
INGREDIENTS FOR 6/8 PEOPLE 250 g pastry flour 2 eggs 140 g Solidal cane sugar 160 g almond flour 6 g baking powder 10 ml Vin Santo 30 g butter, softened 40 g Vivi Verde organic non-salted pistachios, chopped salt
MINUTES
30
DIFFICULTY
5/10
In a large bowl, combine the almond flour and sifted pastry flour and baking powder. Add the eggs, sugar, pinch of salt, Vin Santo and butter and mix all the ingredients. Once you have a soft mixture, incorporate the pistachios. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll it into a log. Divide the log to make several smaller ones. Arrange the logs on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper leaving some space between each one. Bake at 200°C (conventional oven) for about 15 minutes. Let cool then cut the logs diagonally into slices to obtain the cantucci.
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Agenda: For information and to buy tickets: Box Office
www.boxofficetoscana.it - info@boxofficetoscana.it
DECEMBER 2019
JANUARY 2020
Irene Grandi & friends Sunday 01 - 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi
Ort - Concerto di Capodanno Wednesday 01 - 17:00 Firenze - Teatro Verdi
La Tempesta From Tuesday 03 till Sunday 08 - 20:45 (Sunday 15.45) Firenze - Teatro della Pergola
Gran Galà du Cirque Sunday 05 + Monday 06 - 20:45 or 18:00 Firenze - TuscanyHall
Il Flauto magico Tuesday 03 - 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Il Mago di Oz From Friday 06 till Sunday 08 - 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Puccini Elisa Thursday 12 - 21:00 Firenze - Nelson Mandela Forum Shen Yun From Friday 27 till Monday 30 - 20:00 Firenze - Teatro del Maggio Musicale Firentino Panariello, Conti e Pieraccioni From Friday 27 till Sunday 29 + Tuesday 31 - 21:00
Firenze - Nelson Mandela Forum Giovanni Allevi Saturday 28 - 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi
International Skate Awards Saturday 11 + Sunday 12 - 21.00 (Sunday 16:00) Firenze - Nelson Mandela Forum Riccardo Muti - Chicago Syphony Orchestra Monday 20 - 20:00 Firenze – Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Arlecchino servitore di due padroni From Tuesday 21 till Sunday 26 - 20:45 (Sunday 15:45) Firenze - Teatro della Pergola Pinocchio Reloaded From Thursday 23 till Sunday 26 - 20:45 (Sunday 16:45) Firenze - Teatro Verdi
FEBRUARY 2020 We Will Rock You From Friday 07 till Sunday 09 at 20:45 (Sunday 16:45) Firenze - Teatro Verdi Il Piccolo Principe Saturday 08 + Sunday 09 - 18:30 (domenica ore 16:45) Firenze - Teatro Puccini Queen at the Opera Friday 21 - 21:00 Firenze TuscanyHall La Traviata From Saturday 22 till Thursday 05 March - 20:00 (Sunday 15:30) Firenze - Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Alice in Wonderland European tour Wednesday 26 - 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi
Nearby E T R U S C A N S - T h e h i s t o r y o f Tu s c a n y
Mistery, history and arts: exploring Tuscany in the footsteps of the Etruscans means getting in touch with an ancient, fascinating and enigmatic civilisation. Since ancient times, historians have been wondering about the origins of the Etruscans. Just to mention a few, Titus Livius placed their origins in Central Europe, while according to Herodotus they came all the way from what we know today as the Anatolian peninsula.
The thing is, wherever they came from, they settled in the central region of the Italian peninsula between the IX and the I centuries BC and founded a wealthy and powerful civilisation. Its dominion extended from Tuscany, part of Umbria and Lazio, up north to the Po river valley and to the south up until the region of Campania. Etruscans were particularly skilled in manufacturing terracotta, metalworking and devoted themselves to funerary arts. Furthemore, they had strong economic and trading ties with all the other populations of the Mediterranean.
Nowadays, we still can admire many splendid artworks of Etruscan origin and the remains of their ancient city-states in many areas around Tuscany. Make sure you look out for Etruscan traces while wandering in Volterra, Cortona, Chiusi, Arezzo and Fiesole, or head to the Archaological Parks of Baratti and Populonia and Vetulonia, just to mention a few. Text by www.visituscany.com
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Parco archeologico di Baratti e Populonia necropoli delle grotte
Tomba Ildebranda Sovana
Teste serpenti
FONTANELLI ALTA QUALITĂ€ PUBLIACQUA
SESTO FIORENTINO
Un travolgente. Ansuccesso overwhelming success. Oltre 270 milioni di litri erogati over 350 million litersdiofacqua water supplied dal 2011 ad oggi. from 2011 to today
Piazza Primo Maggio Via della Sala
Parco S
Piazza Garibal
Piazza della Crezia Via Chiusi Villa Vogel Via del Pantano
Via D
SCANDICCI
22FONTANELLI fountains 22 installed onterritorio the distribuiti nel di Firenze territory of Florence
350 millions 270 MILIONI of liters supplied by the 95
di litri erogati installed dal 2011 al fountains in 2016 the Publiacqua area
FIESOLE
Via delle Panche Piazza Dalmazia
San Donato
ldi
SETTIGNANO
Via Maragliano Piazza Vittoria
Florence
Dosio
6
Via Manfredo Fanti
Via dell’Agnolo Piazza Signoria Piazza Tasso
Via del Mezzetta Via Aretina Parco Anconella Piazza Bartali
ARCETRI
Piazza Puliti
180 MILIONI 180 millions
di bottiglie di citizens plastica not spent by risparmiate
72 MILIONI 230 millions
di euro risparmiati of bottles not produced dai cittadini
Useful Infos ARRIVE AND MOVE AROUND FLORENCE
THE FIRENZE CARD
SUNDAY AT T H E M U S E U M S
> ARRIVE AND - MOVE AROUND FLORENCE From the airport to Florence (and vice versa) The public transportation system of the city offers a special and frequent bus line from and to Florence Airport. It is a 25 minutes ride by shuttle bus, called Volainbus, operating between the airport and the central railway station. The new line T2 Vespucci connects the Central Train Station to the Vespucci airport. The tramway rides from 5 am to 00,30 am at night and to 2,00 am on week ends; trains every 4 minutes. The bike sharing in Florence Moving by bicycle in Florence is a beautiful idea, especially if the city has the innovative free bike sharing system: mobike. How to use the service? Just Download the free Mobike APP and follow the instructions. By Taxi Taxis are white, can be called by phone or found at the various taxi ranks dotted around the city, at the airport, at the main train stations. It is possible to get them by SMS or Skype or with dedicated APPs.
> THE FIRENZE CARD The city of Florence has a special tourist card, which is called Firenze Card. It is valid for 72 hours and provides you priority admission to 80 museums, villas and historical gardens located in Florence and surroundings (all the most important are included). The “classic” Firenze Card has also other versions: the Firenze Card Plus and the Firenze Card Restart.
> S U N DAY AT T H E M U S E U M S On the first Sunday of the month, from October to March, state-owned museums and archaeological areas are open for free for everybody: it’s Sunday at the Museum. FullSizeRender-1Therefore on this day visitors of Florence can access, without having to pay a fee, a number of art places: some very famous ones and some lesser-known ones, a real art binge at zero cost.
M o re i n fo s a t h t t p : / / w w w. f i re n z e t u r i s m o . i t / e n
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Arrivederci!
See it, snap it, share it. There’s something magical around every corner.
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See you n ext t im e in Flo re nce . We can ’t wa i t to we lco m e yo u ag ain. www. rea d e l it is m . co m