YOUR PERSONAL COPY - issue n° 6
F L O R E N C E
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails” - Mark Twain – Explore, live and enjoy the best of the city.
There’s beauty all around you.
Autumn in Florence
September ∙ October ∙ November 2018 www.readelitism.com
PRINTING IGV s.r.l. - Piazza Nasoni, 4 San Giovanni Valdarno (AR) PUBLISHER F Society SAS Via del Leone 37, Firenze p.iva 06722440481 Aut.Trib. Firenze N. 6048 del 14 Aprile 2017 WRITE US AT General : info@readelitism.com Advertising : adv@readelitism.com ONLINE CONTENT www.readelitism.com You can follow us on: @elitismflorence @elitismflorence #elitismflorence
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TRANSLATIONS NTL traduzioni
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PHOTO CREDITS Matteo Vistocco, Francesca Nardoni
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In partnership with: Windows On Italy Doorways to Italy Apartments Florence Family Apartments Madeinitaly Holiday Home Dot Florence bb Charme Suite Florence FLOspirit Holiday Itaco Florence Concierge What about a house in Florence? Florence Luxury Rent Incredible Tuscany haloria.com Acacia Firenze www.torremannellisuites.it
CONTRIBUTORS Cinzia Azzerboni, Serena Becagli, Marta Matteini, Liliana Antoniucci
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Elitism Florence: the quarterly magazine focused on discovering and experiencing the city and its magnificence. What to see, where to eat, trendy bars, historical places, architecture, shops, clubs with complete address lists and all the advice you need to enjoy the city the way Florentines do. And more, interviews with locals, details on the surroundings, highlights on what to buy, fun facts, and all of the top events you don’t want to miss out on in town.
DESIGN + COVER Sally Studio
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The issue you have in your hands is to welcome you on your arrival in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Whether it’s for a day, week, or month, you’ll find that this city has passion, beauty, history, good food and wonderful people. Autumn is around the corner and Florence’s look is that of unrivalled fascination. With September, we say goodbye to a marvellous summer full of great things and we get ready to hang on to what we treasure for the seasons to come: the forms, the places, the influences, the visions, the hidden nooks, the splendour, and the wonder. You’ll be exploring and trying the best places to drink or eat in Where to Drink/Eat, go shopping with our guide Dress Well, and explore a wonderful city just a stone’s throw from Florence, the city of Prato. Read our select guest’s tips in Suggested By and learn more about our country’s culture in the columns of La Dolce Vita, Style Icon and Flair. We’ll talk about inspirations to enhance your treasure trove of memories and hope that once you’re back home, when you leaf through this issue again, you’ll be filled with a warm sensation of enchantment and pleasure.
VICE - EDITOR Francesca Cellini
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If you’ve chosen Florence as your holiday destination, you will already know that however long your stay is going to be, in any case, it will always be too short to reveal the wonders of Florence, a city full of monuments, art, museums, squares, and unforgettable experiences. As locals, we’re the ones who experience the many gifts of the city first, and therefore Elitism aims to be a collection of suggestions, a notebook, a smart guide, to make your stay in the cradle of the Renaissance a piece of your life that you’ll always carry in your heart.
EDITOR Francesca Querci
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Welcome
ELITISM FLORENCE There’s beauty all around you Issue n° 6 September | October | November 2018 Quarterly ~ Florence ~ Italy
Le informazioni diffuse hanno finalità divulgative, le fonti utilizzate riflettono le esperienze e le opinioni degli Autori. I link citati e le immagini tratte da altri siti sono proprietà dei rispettivi Soggetti. L’Editore, che ha posto ogni cura nel citare correttamente la fonte, si dichiara disponibile a pubblicare eventuali rettifiche per involontarie citazioni improprie. L’Editore e gli Autori di Elitism declinano ogni responsabilità per uso improprio delle informazioni riportate o da errori relativi al loro contenuto.
CONTENTS September~October~November 2018
TO DO
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TO SEE
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DRESS WELL
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Five amazing things to do in Florence we selected and guarantee for you
First things you have to see once you arrive
What and where to shop in town
& ACCESSORIES
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Trends and styles you’re looking for in jewelry
WHERE TO EAT
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WHERE TO DRINK
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SUGGESTED BY
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CITIES OF TUSCANY
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MAP
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FLAIR
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Top restaurants and typical taverns to satisfy your hunger
Best wines and drinks around town.. raise your glass with style
Special advices from Mr. Claudio Bertini
Prato and its treasures
Get lost and..enjoy
Enrico Coveri, l’enfant prodige of Italian fashion
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THE BEST SNEAKERS SELECTION.
www.sotf.com
VIA DE’TORNABUONI, 17/R. FIRENZE FI
CONTENTS September~October~November 2018
NO YOU CAN’T MISS IT
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OUR SELECTION
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NEARBY
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Church of Santo Stefano al Ponte
Recipes and flavors from Florence
Where to wonder around: Maremma
AGENDA
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THIS IS SO CONTEMPORARY
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LA DOLCE VITA
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Sandra Tomboloni and her mesmerizing art
Design edition: Lettera 22 typewriter
STYLE ICON
Alida Valli, the fiancée of Italy
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Via Tornabuoni
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You cannot miss the recently renewed Mercato Centrale, a real gastronomic melting pot, for those who want to taste emotions. The Loggia del Porcellino where you can buy genuine leather products and caress the famous luck charm bronze boar muzzle at the side of the market.
Arno River
Enjoy the Diladdarno discovering San Frediano, snooping around workshops, antiques and art galleries. Piazza Santo Spirito is the right place for a typical dinner or a late evening drink. Piazza del Carmine with its mixed between sacred and profane atmosphere is another must-see.
· The Rive Gauche
To do
· Not just Art
Go for some top-level shopping in Via Tornabuoni: Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Tiffany, and many more are there waiting to fuel your vanity. Discover vintage jewels in Piazza Strozzi at Barducci Jewelry. Design and crafts lovers are welcome in Via della Spada where a tour is a must.
· Tuscan Food
Taste tradition: a Lampredotto sandwich in Piazza de’Nerli, Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Cambi restaurant, extraordinary Pappa al Pomodoro at Santo Bevitore. Want some ice cream? Sorbetteria in Piazza Tasso and the world-famous Vivoli near Piazza Santa Croce are waiting for you.
Il ratto delle Sabine
Loggia del Porcellino
· Markets Tour
Second Italian museum for number of visitors, the Accademia displays the largest amount of Michelangelo’s sculptures in the world. A must-see, where you can find the original Michelangelo’s David and probably experience the Stendhal Syndrome. Remember to book in advance!
· Galleria dell’Accademia
IL Dumo
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Piazzale Michelangelo
Ponte Vecchio
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Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of the city’s civil and administrative authority. Sight is surrounded by ancient marble, bronze and stone statues, like Donatello’s Marzocco, the lion leaning on the coat of arms, and the Nettuno fountain. Here, the most famous gallery: the Uffizi.
Links the main part of the historical city centre with the “Diladdarno”, with artisan goldsmiths that once were butcher shops lining the path to the scenic terraces. The Vasari Corridor, that crosses the Arno at Ponte Vecchio, was built in 1565.
· Ponte Vecchio
To see
Palazzo Pitti
· Piazza della Signoria
Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, Campanile di Giotto and Battistero; with its white Carrara marble front, hallowed in the year 1436, the Duomo dominates the whole square and Giotto’s Campanile. The Cathedral’s dome, finished with red bricks, outstands everything around.
· Piazza Duomo
Piazza della Signoria
A 5 minute walk to embrace absolute beauty: the city sight from Piazzale Michelangelo. You can walk the ancient stairways “Rampe del Poggi” starting from San Niccolò to climb up toward Piazzale. Once there just a few more steps to fall in love with the Church of San Miniato.
· Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato
Residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, home to the Medici, the Lorena and the Savoia families. The palace hosts an articulated compound of different galleries and museums: Palatina Gallery, Appartamenti Monumentali, Modern Art Gallery, Boboli Garden.
· Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Garden
Campanile di Giotto
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Florence Factory shop via dei Neri 6/8 r, Firenze Opening Monday 13.30 - 19.30 Thusday - Sunday 10.30 - 19.30
www.florencefactory.it
Reinhard Plank
Jamais Sans Toi
Florence Factory. Welcome to the world of high-quality craftsmanship
Going through the center of Florence means steeping oneself in the world of Renaissance Art and Architecture, a world that bears witness to a centuries-old civilization. The historic center, dotted with an extraordinary range of all the most important names in designer boutiques, is also an international reference point for high fashion. The shops, workshops, and studios of the great Florentine designers, extraordinary and completely different from one another, together offer a complex fresco of all the trends, styles and cultures that make up the basis of Italian fashion. Walking along the river on the enchanting Lungarni, through the alleys, marveling at glimpses and streets worthy of photographing, it’s impossible not to notice where this city’s roots are: centuries-old traditions linked to artisan shops are, in fact, Florence’s vital and irreplaceable lifeblood. Passion, technique, and artistic work all speak of a tradition that is the city’s cultural heritage. In the heart of Florence, on Via dei Neri, a new space is home to local artisans and designers, the Florence Factory Shop. It was created with the desire for a store where craftsmanship, quality and modernity are the basis of every product, qualities which can be found in its every detail. About thirty craftsmen, historical shops and emerging Florentine designers have been chosen as spokespeople for the centuries-old Florentine artisan culture but recreated in a contemporary key, with high quality collections of objects, representing the most definitive meaning of “Made in Italy.” Florence Factory is a concept-store that aims at selling local products, where every object has been conceived, designed and created by designers and artisans whose passion and dedication have given life to ideas, emotions, and inspirations imbued with Italian tradition and culture. Going inside the Florence Factory is like taking a tour of the most interesting Florentine workshops and studios, and it is the only store that brings Florentine artisans together in a single space.
“Every object that becomes part of the Florence Factory collection is the result of a careful and passionate selection,” say Jacopo Lotti and Lorenzo Bertini, the founders of SBB, “giving life to a space where quality design and craftsmanship merge into a single project made up of shopping, experiences and culture.” We have before us a place where spreading the culture of craftsmanship and design is expressed in collections of unique products, rich in history and with great value. Jewelry, furniture and ceramics, clothing, accessories, fragrances and much more, all strictly authentic, local and handmade. According to the best artisan tradition, almost all the products can be customized and made to measure and you can be sure that each object contains everything that has made Florence thrive for centuries, a veritable “Handmade in Florence”.
Jaqueline Harberink
SOTF For sneakers addicts, but not only. The store combines the experiences of buying in store with the advantages of digital sales and is the result of over a year of research and experimentation with experts in e-commerce of fashion. By entering the fitting rooms, the system recognizes the choice of one or more products and shows the relevant selection details on an integrated screen-device. Innovative shopping experience. //Via Tornabuoni 17r www.sotf.com
Playground A huge open space on two levels covering an area of about 450 square meters, for an amazing shopping experience. Cor-ten, glass, wood and iron are the basic elements of an innovative and avant-garde design. Here, you’ll find a wide and careful selection of the most interesting brands on the world of man / woman ready to wear. //Via Pomeria, 1, Prato www.playgroundshop.com
Dress Well
Barberino Outlet
Barberino Designer Outlet is the perfect location where you can find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafes and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded in wonderful Tuscany setting and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. We are conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, just 30 minutes from Florence and only 45 minutes from Bologna. Enjoy Tax free Shopping in our centre. Opening Hours: MondaySunday 10.00-21.00 //Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello www.outlets.mcarthurglen.com
Benheart Benheart, the leather quality at its top. The owners works only with the finest carefully selected local artisans and all raw materials, leathers and accessories, are sourced and chosen by Ben, their Stylist, who mix the look and the quality to create garments which will last a lifetime. // Via della Vigna Nuova 97r www.benheart.it
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MAURIZIO MORI Today the name Maurizio Mori is synonymous with high fashion costume jewellery. Located in the center of Florence between the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti, it opened its doors in 1997, and every day, inspired by the city’s beauty, it creates unique products. In each piece of jewellery designed by Maurizio Mori there is classic Italian style, authentic and inimitable, awe-inspiring on first glance thanks to the details and the skilful combination of semi-precious stones, pearls and crystals. //Via Dei Guicciardini 59r www.mauriziomori.com
TIFFANY & CO Tiffany & Co. is the most exclusive jewellery store in the world and has been the most important home to jewellery design in the U.S. since 1837. It purchases creations that are superbly made and of timeless beauty, and that will always be appreciated for their priceless value. The collection of diamond pendants designed by Elsa Peretti is not to be missed. //Via Tornabuoni 37r www.tiffany.it
& Accessories PESTELLI
Tommaso Pestelli’s career began in the family workshop where, “stealing the knowhow though observation”, he continued to elaborate the traditional Florentine craftsmanship he had learnt alongside the Masters of the Trade. His technique and personal style were further enhanced by his time spent at Florence’s Academy of Fine Arts, studying sculpture, and then at the Opificio delle Pietre Dure restoring gold and glyptics. Today, using traditional techniques and technical expertise, combined with originality and creativity, Tommaso and his wife Eva create, not only, fine jewellery, but also amazing collectibles and home accessories made of gold, silver and semi-precious stones, inspired by the sense of style and atmosphere of the past. //Via Borgo SS. Apostoli 20r www.pestelli.com |
OFFICINE PANERAI Giovanni Panerai opens his watchmaker’s shop on Ponte alle Grazie in Florence: serving not only as a shop and workshop but also as the city’s first watchmaking school, Officine Panerai’s history begins here. Today, after a meticulous refurbishment, Panerai’s historic boutique is reopened. This artisan’s workshop is a meeting point for brand collectors and enthusiasts, who can find not only pieces from the current collection, but also special edition watches and special productions that Panerai reserves exclusively for its boutiques. //Piazza di San Giovanni 14r www.panerai.com
Experiences in Florence
“Unique tours for every traveller”
SMALL GROUP TOUR HISTORY AND FLAVOR Our tour begins in the Piazza della Repubblica where Julius Caesar founded the city in 59BC. Make our way along the Via Roma toward the iconic Ponte Vecchio once a very smelly bridge lined with butchers and fish mongers. See part of the Vasari Corridor used for the powerful Medici who ruled Florence for 350 years when Tuscany was a separate city state. The Corridor was a private passage from the town hall ‘Palazzo Vecchio’ to the Pitti Palace the last home of the Medici. Arrive at Piazzale degli Uffizi you will stroll down the walk surrounded by the impressive Uffizi Gallery. See the monuments of famous Florentine personalities including Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo to name a few. See the Lanzi Lodge, an open air sculpture gallery that houses original sculpture by Benvenuto Cellini along with copies of sculpture by Giambologna. Small Group Tour: 1-12pax Tour Duration: 2.5 Hours Price per Person: 90 € Inclusions: All samples and tastings, local English-speaking guide
SMALL GROUP TOUR MERCATO CENTRALE SAN LORENZO FOOD LOVERS Hidden behind the many stands at the San Lorenzo Market we arrive at Gianni’s Wine Store. You will discover the meat & fish stands along with the growers markets or fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables. Continue to a cheese and salumi stand with local products from the hills that surround our city here we will also taste local craft beer made with Saffron taste Tuscan Pecorino cheese with honey from the Casentino Valley. Arrive to the top floor that became the Mercato Centrale. You will witness one of the most ideal gourmet food halls in the world. Arrive at Valerie Rugis stand of fried vegetables when in season we will taste the fried artichoke and zucchini flower. We’ll stop by Local Baker David Bedu’s stand called Pank to enjoy a tasting one of Florence best bakeries using 100% Italian Ancient Grain. Small Group Tour: Up to 1-12 persons Starting Time 12.30 -02.30pm Price per person: 90 € Inclusions: All samples and tastings, local English-speaking guide PRIVATE HILL TOWNS IN TUSCANY Enjoy a drive along rolling hills of vineyards and olive groves through the Chianti Region. Arrive at the medieval town of San Gimignano. Your guide will explain the historical aspects and give you an insight to find the best artisanal stores, great coffee and gelato for your free time to visit the main squares of this architectural marvel. Continue to Monteriggioni a fortified hamlet strategically built between the two rival towns of Florence and Siena. Dante called the town the ‘crown jewel of Tuscany’. Continue to Siena. Visit the Piazza del Campo to see the political centre of the medieval city. As we return we will stop at Piazzale Michelangelo to the most spectacular view point of Florence. Small Group Tour: Up to 1-6 persons Starting Time 09.00am - 05.00pm Price per person: 165 € Inclusions: All samples and tastings, local English-speaking guide
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SMALL GROUP TOUR FLORENCE FOODIES TOURS Get ready for the perfect introduction to Florence, especially if you like food and history. Our tour begins with a stroll around the main squares and sites. We stop in to the oldest cafe in Florence for a morning cappuccino before heading to on the ancient street of Via dei Tornabuoni to discover a Nobile wine family who have been producing wine for over 30 generations! Visit their palace an architectural marvel along with other historical palaces along the street. Arrive at a local bakery to taste a few sweet delights. Learn about our DOP breads and use of ancient grains and regional product. Arrive at a delightful food store specialising in earthy truffles, where we’ll enjoy a glass of Prosecco with a truffle panini. Cross over the Arno River to arrive in a quaint square for a taste of local gelato. Arrive in the Piazza della Signoria to witness the Town Hall and Uffizi Gallery. As you make your way to the Duomo Complex we stop in to a chocolate store for a tasting. Small Group Tour: Up to 1-12 persons Starting Time 03.00 - 05.30pm Price per person: 67 € Inclusions: All samples and tastings, local English-speaking guide
SEASONAL TOUR -ITALIAN SOCCER WITH A LOCAL Meet your expert local guide at the train station and take the train to Artemio Franchi, the home stadium of our local football team, ACF Fiorentina, situated on the outskirts of the city. Upon arrival at the stadium, we’ll do as the locals do and make a street food stop. Your options are delicious and varied but we recommend that you try either a bread roll with local salami, cheese, sundried tomato or artichoke or the original roast pork roll which we call ‘porchetta’ — mmm delicious! After filling our bellies, we’ll take a walk around the stadium, soaking up the atmosphere and watching local punters enjoying a beer and buying typical football souvenirs before the big game. Once the game begins you will see the locals and the opposing team’s fans singing and cheering. As always, after 45 minutes there will be a 15-minute break when you can pick up a snack, espresso coffee or a beer. After the game, your guide will take you back to the central train station. Seasonal Tour Price per person 120 €
SMALL GROUP TOUR APERITIVO TIME! FLORENCE WINE TOUR It’s wine o’clock! Enjoy a late afternoon stroll around Florence to discover our famous Tuscan red wines along with a selection of original tastings. This fun and informative tour is a great way to begin your evening and get a solid introduction to delicious Tuscan wines and Italian Mixology. We will stop at three very different locations around the city. Our first stop will include a tasting at a local ‘Fiaschettteria’ an original term for the wine bars around Florence that would serve Table Wine Chianti in the straw based bottle. Here you will taste the most traditional street food in town ‘Trippe’ with a glass of Chianti or local schiacciata, Tuscan Prosciutto and Pecorino. Continue to one of the most important wine bars in Florence. You will see a selection of National wine and much more. Visit the largest wine cellar in Florence and enjoy a tasting of Chianti Classico and other special local foods. Our last stop is at a classic Bar where you will learn about Italian Mixology. Enjoy a cocktail and gourmet tastings as you savor the charm of a local aperitivo in Florence. Small Group Tour: Up to 1-12 persons Starting Time: 05.30pm - 08.00pm Price per person: 77 € Inclusions: All samples and tastings, local English-speaking guide
FLORENCE URBAN ADVENTURES www.florenceurbanadventures.com - info@florenceurbanadventures.com Via Dei Sassetti, 6 - 50123 Florence - Italy
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Where to Eat Enjoying food is one of the best pleasures of life. The staff of Elitism presents you the top 5 restaurants of the month, selected after a fine and accurate test. Officina del gusto
$$$
Strategically located and easy to reach thanks to the tram stop right in front. With a courteous attentive staff, this cosy modern restaurant has industrial touches that recall a workshop. For a tasty tagliere, typical Tuscan bruschetta, perfect tartare, this is just the right place. Don’t hesitate to try the Coccoli and stracchino! //Piazza Paolo Uccello 12 $$ Osteria Cicalone Eating here is like eating in typical Florentine family home on a Sunday. Authentic flavours but nothing left to chance. A nice welcoming restaurant, dishes made with passion to achieve a sincere taste. With wisely selected and handled basic ingredients, this is a historic place and the skill and knowledge can be perceived in every dish. Worth tasting: the tiramisu.
T’Amerò $ The Tamerò Restaurant in Florence was established in the premises that housed the historic mechanics workshop in Piazza Santo Spirito. The owners have left the walls as they were, making the restaurant-pasta bar unique and special. Aperitifs, handmade pasta and live music are served up in a former workshop with industrial tubes and dangling light bulbs. From 11 pm the venue turns into a club with live music. //Piazza Santo Spirito 11r
//Via delle Belle Donne 43r $$ Trattoria Cesarino Trattoria Cesarino dates back to the post WWII period, when Cesarino and his wife decided to open their doors in a Florence that was experiencing the economic miracle and designing its own reconstruction. Every day, at both lunch and dinner, there are new dishes, new ideas, and unique combinations of basic ingredients. All within the simplicity of Italian cuisine. //Via Giovan Battista Niccolini 16 $ Nobile This tiny little bistro is suitable for a quick lunch with sandwiches, provides attention to the smallest details, and has well-calibrated prices. Considered one of the best for its “lampredotto (beef stomach) sandwich”, and paired with a good glass of wine, this place is sure to be a real discovery for you. Friendly and professional staff, excellent quality. //Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini 13
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Where to Drink Places to taste fine wines and artistic cocktails. Our top 5 selection, with some alcoholic degree. Sabor Cubano This cockteleria turns out to be a true revolution in the sector, distinguished by fresh ingredients from Latin America, simplicity, sparseness and attention to detail, rooted in the Cuban tradition. The quality of the drinks unleashes a collision of the senses, an experience where taste, smell and sight harmoniously meet. Gilò Gilò’s unmistakable style is confirmed in the classic venue formula that was previously lacking in Florence: distinctive good entertainment for a memorable evening. The good reasons for going to Gilò are all concentrated in the place’s character, where time is suspended between a delicious dish, a great drink - and excellent live music.
//Via Sant’Antonino 64r
Rivoire Sweets and cocktails in an elegant 19th-century chocolate shop decorated with mirrors, chandeliers and retro wood and straw chairs. Today Rivoire is a point of reference for all lovers of good taste and refinement combined with elegance. Here are coffees and chocolates for the tasting, accompanied by desserts expertly prepared following ancient recipes. One must-try is the Negroni, prepared by them. //Via Vacchereccia 4r
//Via dei Fossi 44r
Gesto The food is presented in such a way as to encourage sharing and the portions are also ideal for an aperitif. GESTO wants to leave its customers free to choose when, how much and how to sit at the table. Excellent cocktails and a menu with various tastings, all delicious and nicely-prepared. Customers order food autonomously with the slate that is then used as a plate. //Borgo San Frediano 27r
Vineria Sonora You can choose from the organic wines, excellent music and gourmet tastings. A mix between a wine bar and a restaurant with theme nights and tastings where you can learn about the finest foods and appreciate good music on vinyl. This small welcoming venue takes the place of a famous Latteria well-loved by the Florentines. The bread, cheese, and cured meats are organic, artisan and zero kilometre, purchased in local markets. //Via degli Alfani 39r
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Bertini
For more www.bitconcerti.it
I’ve been living in Santa Croce for forty years and I still think it’s the best neighborhood in Florence. I don’t have much time for taking walks but Saturday morning is for me, and I almost always spend it shopping at the SANT’AMBROGIO MARKET, where the farmers still come with fresh produce from the gardens just outside the city. Of course, first I have to have breakfast at CAFFE’ CIBREO, the best way to start the day. There are still artisan workshops in the neighborhood that manage to hang on, and you mustn’t miss “I MOSAICI DI LASTRUCCI”, on Via dei Macci. They’re my neighbors, and work in semi-precious stones just the way it was done centuries ago. They’re really nice. You can go in and watch them work from the entrance to the workshop. Slightly out of “my” area, but not to be missed is CAFFE’ DEL VERONE, in Piazza Santissima Annunziata. It has one of the most beautiful views in Florence. It just opened and isn’t too crowded yet. It’s good at all hours but especially good for an aperitif. After dinner, you’re spoiled for choice; I usually go to one of the restaurants next to Teatro Verdi (where I spend almost a hundred evenings a year). There’s the excellent ARA’, Sicilian cuisine, or the OSTERIA DEL CAFFE’ ITALIANO, on the ground floor of an ancient Florentine building. Or, if I have dinner after the show, I go to ACQUA AL DUE. It’s open until late and has always been a safe haven for the actors and singers who perform at Teatro Verdi or Teatro della Pergola or other theaters; after midnight you can find them there, with Stefano and Lucia looking after them, there in the dining room until the last customer finally wants to go to bed.
Event Management Associate
Suggested by: Claudio
Andy Warhol, Jacqueline, 1964
Gilbert&George, Being, 1988
Colour Code: Works from the Alessandro Grassi Collection Exhibition curated by Stefano Pezzato Centro Pecci, Prato 7 September - 2 December 2018 In conjunction with the thirtieth anniversary of its opening (1988-2018), Centro Pecci presents the exhibition Colour Code: Works from the Alessandro Grassi Collection intended to recall this industrialist, born in Prato in 1942, through his passion for art and colour. He established himself in Milan with a printing ink company, and died in Tuscany in 2009. Considered to be among the most important Italian collectors, from the Eighties Grassi was one of the first supporters of the Transavantgarde movement and a staunch advocate of postmodern painting and contemporary photography from Europe and America. The exhibition, curated by Stefano Pezzato, focuses on a selection of works from the Alessandro Grassi collection now on long term loan to Centro Pecci, but it also includes works from MART - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Rovereto and from private lenders to trace a significant, albeit concise, itinerary within a collection that is estimated to have acquired up to 700 works by over 280 artists, including around one hundred photographic works, over three decades.
Works by: Bernd and Hilla Becher, Alighiero Boetti and Mimmo Paladino, Jonathan Borofsky, Sandro Chia, Sandro Chia and Enzo Cucchi, Christo, Francesco Clemente, Enzo Cucchi, Gino De Dominicis, Nicola De Maria, William Eggleston, Peter Fischli / David Weiss, Gilbert & George, Nan Goldin, Timothy Greenfield-Sanders, Keith Haring, Neil Jenny, Alex Katz, Joseph Kosuth, Armin Linke, Markus Lßpertz, Luigi Ontani, Mimmo Paladino, Thomas Ruff, David Salle, Salvo, Mario Schifano, Julian Schnabel, Cindy Sherman, Stephen Shore, Thomas Struth, Wolfgang Tillmans, Andy Warhol Exhibition venue: Centro per l’arte contemporanea Luigi Pecci Fondazione per le arti contemporanee in Toscana Viale della Repubblica 277 - Prato New opening hours: daily 10am - 8pm, Friday and Saturday 10am - 11pm Closed Monday www.centropecci.it
Prato: the Tuscany of the Past and Future
Piazza del Comune, Palazzo Pretorio
T
he center of a territory rich with history and precious works of art, it is surprising, fascinating and those visiting it for the first time will fall in love with it.
Let yourself be inspired by a unique and all-encompassing city that has managed to establish a perfect harmony between its ancient roots and innovation, between its artistic and contemporary past, progressing and transmitting dynamism and constructive energy to those who experience it. There is always something to see, to discover, to explore. Prato imagines, and then creates. Prato has the only example of Swabian architecture in centralnorthern Italy, the Emperor’s Castle, built by the Sicilian architect Riccardo da Lentini between 1237 and 1248. The exteriors have remained perfectly intact, and during the summer the castle’s spaces are used for events, concerts and outdoor cinema. Visitors can stroll through the beautiful Piazza del Duomo, in the presence of the Cathedral of Santo Stefano, a splendid example of Romanesque-Gothic architecture where prominent use has been made of the paler alberese limestone and green marble typical of the 15th century. The Sacred Belt of the Virgin Mary is also preserved here. A few steps away is Piazza del Comune, the city’s political center, which houses the Palazzo Comunale and the Palazzo Pretorio, today the Civic Museum, the oldest cultural institution
Bisenzio, ville
in the city in terms of history and collections. Prato keeps its promises and takes you into the future with the new Luigi Pecci Center for Contemporary Art, built in 1988 by architect Italo Gamberini and renovated in 2016 on a project by architect Maurice Nio. All of this, and we assure you it’s just a little taste, is something you absolutely must not miss out on. September is the month of festivals. In fact, on September 8 is the Corteggio Storico – the Historical Pageant re-evoking the tribute paid to the Holy Belt of the Virgin by the Municipalities of Tuscany and the Prato Civic Magistrates since the Middle Ages. The relic, a woolen belt believed to have belonged to the Virgin Mary, was brought to Prato from the Holy Land in 1141 by the Prato merchant Michele Dagomari, who donated it to the city: the Holy Belt became the religious and civil symbol of the city of Prato and has since been preserved in the Cathedral of Santo Stefano, first in temporary chapels and finally in the chapel built between 1386 and 1390 and adorned with a cycle of frescoes by Agnolo Gaddi (1392/1395). Guarded in a reliquary which locks with 3 keys (two owned by the Municipality and one by the Diocese, so that the casket may only be opened jointly), for centuries the venerated belt was considered the most precious treasure in the city, becoming the cornerstone of its artistic events and development, as well as a fundamental element of its identity. Today’s Corteggio Storico, organized and curated by
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the Municipality of Prato, with all its tradition of ancient and modern meanings has attracted the attention of an ever-growing public, which comes for the parade and the various attractions - musical performances, ancient displays of flags and sidearms - but above all, the rite of the Exposition. www.pratoturismo.it/en The wool and silk road From Prato to Bologna, hiking along the Trans-Apennine connecting route For those who love to explore history and nature at a leisurely pace, there is the trans-Apennine hiking route that runs for over 135 km between Prato and Bologna. The Via della Lana e della Seta – the Wool and Silk Road - starts from Piazza Duomo in Prato and arrives in Piazza Maggiore in Bologna along seven legs that explore the ancient factories, mills and fulling-mills that produced those fabrics, respectively wool and silk, and which made Prato and Bologna’s textile districts famous throughout the world. In Prato, you’ll come across the hydraulic systems of the Cavalciotto and “Gorone” of Santa Lucia along the Bisenzio River. Further along is the Calvana massif where, on the meadows of the Retaia, “Calvana” cattle graze. A little further on still is the Poggio Corolla where horses can be found in the wild; the Badia di San Salvatore in Vaiano is an architectural jewel that preserves ancient Duomo
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fulling-mill tubs and Lombard tombs. Then there is the Badia di Montepiano, built at the end of the year one thousand near the hermitage of Beato Pietro and the Memorial Park on the Gothic Line. This is a very evocative route in autumn, with chestnut woods, multicolored foliage and authentic flavors. Museum of Palazzo Pretorio and its evocative views of the city Another must-see destination for those visiting Prato and Tuscany is the 1780 square-meter Museum of Palazzo Pretorio, with its collection displayed in a clear and harmonious itinerary together with the sculptural and pictorial furnishings of the building. It is characterized by countless evocative views of
the city and covers a period of time going from the fourteenth to the twentieth century. It has a permanent exhibition of about 3000 pieces including paintings, sculptures, ceramics, textiles, furniture and other artifacts that embody the soul of the city and represent local creativity and culture. On display in the Museum are works by Donatello, Filippo and Filippino Lippi, the polyptychs by Bernardo Daddi and Giovanni da Milano, altarpieces by Santi di Tito and Alessandro Allori and the gallery of plaster casts by Lorenzo Bartolini: for the most part, this collection was created during the 1800s, thanks to acquisitions and legacies, but it has recently received important donations such as the Tintori, Riblet and Lipchitz collections. www.palazzopretorio.prato.it readelitism.com
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Piazza San Marco
26
Giardino dei Semplici
Galleria Dell’ Accademia
S.M. Novella Central Train Station
Mercato Centrale
Piazza dell’Unità
Piazza della S.S. Annunziata
San Lorenzo
Piazza S. Maria Novella Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiore
Palazzo Strozzi
Piazza Goldoni Ponte Alla Carraia
Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza San Firenze
Piazza S. Trinita Ponte S. Trinita
Mercato Nuovo
Piazza della Signoria
Piazza Santa Croce
Galleria Degli Uffizi Piazza Ponte Mentana Vecchio
Piazza Santo Spirito
Arn o
Piazza Dei Pitti Palazzo Pitti
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Piazza De’ Mozzi
Ponte Alle Grazie
ei
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Giardino Giardinodella della Gherardesca Gherardesca
a
Sinagoga
Piazza Piazza Dei Ciompi Dei Ciompi
Piazza Piazza S. Ambrogio Ambrogio
e
AArrnno Torre Torre G. G.Poggi Poggi
Get lost in Florence · Santa Croce Impossible not to stop to admire this gorgeous Church, that gives its name to the neighborhood. Walking the narrow streets and the small squares in the area you will find old workshops and small but precious museums like the Museo Horne and the Museo di Storia della Scienza. The first one displays a significant collection of paintings and sculptures collected by the art critic Horne itself, who lived there. The second is kind of a shrine to Galileo Galilei and hosts his telescopes and the lenses he used to discover the largest moons of Jupiter. Among the many peculiarities of this area, Michelangelo Buonarroti lived for a short period of his life right in Via Ghibellina. Time for the best ice cream in the world now, Vivoli! · Santo Spirito and San Frediano Workshops, goldsmiths, restorers and antiques shops make this two adjacent districts the area of the city in which still lives the old Florentine craftsmanship tradition. A visit to Church of Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza del Cestello and to the Church of San Frediano in Cestello is in order. Walking through typical cobblestone small alleys named like the old jobs once exerted in the streets themselves (via dei Tessitori, via dei Cardatori, etc…) you can reach Piazza del Carmine. Don’t let the unfinished front side mislead you! Inside the Church one of the greatest Renaissance masterpieces, the Cappella Brancacci, especially known for the astonishing fresco “Expulsion from the garden of Eden” painted by Masaccio. · Duomo and San Lorenzo San Lorenzo was one of the districts where the Medici family lived and where you can discover unbelievable beauties, strolling around the lanes maze. After the Duomo named Santa Maria del Fiore, the main city Cathedral, you can find the Cappelle Medicee, with their gorgeous marble and stone walls cladding and the first Medici palace, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, at number one in via Larga (now via Cavour). If you are hungry, the best for a quick meal is the Mercato Centrale, that offers a wide food and drinks choice in a fine steel, glass and cast-iron Art Nouveau building.
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Piazzale Michelangelo Michelangelo Piazzale
· Sant’Ambrogio Lively, dynamic and always hot! The Sant’Ambrogio area usually surprises first time visitors. The main square, with the Sant’ambrogio Church, is one of the oldest in town and it is one of the locals favorite night-life places because of the plenty of clubs, bars, bistros and restaurants all around. A must-see is the Sant’Ambrogio covered Market where you can taste some of the traditional Tuscan products like “la Pattona”. This district is also home to the Synagogue and the Jewish Museum.
· San Niccolò It is not a district, not even a block, it is Via San Niccolò! In the Diladdarno is one of the oldest streets, and takes its name from San Nicola di Mira to whom the Church of San Niccolò Oltrarno is dedicated. The area is rich of notable historical buildings like the Palazzo del Rosso from the 17th century, the Palazzo Demidoff-Amici and the Palazzo GianniLucchesi-Vegni that shows on its facade a plaque to the memory of the Russian director Andrej Tarkovskij and his Florentine days. At number 99 Palazzo Stiozzi-Ridolfi, attributed to Baccio D’Agnolo, and at 107 the decorated front side of Palazzo Nasi-Quartesi with paintings from the 15th century.
· San Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo The San Miniato al Monte Abbey is one of the most beautiful Romanesque Churches of Florence and is sacred to San Miniato, one of the first Florentine martyrs. Once you exit the Church, there you see it! The magnificence and the heart of Florence... Forte Belvedere, Santa Croce, the Arno, the Bridges...with the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello and the Badia Fiorentina bell tower standing out among the breathtaking panorama and, north-side, the smooth hills of Fiesole and Settignano. Piazzale Michelangelo can be reached from Viale Michelangelo, a lovely tree-lined avenue that climbs the hillside, or from the old stoop of the Rampe di San Niccolò.
info@readelitism.com www.readelitism.com Follow us Instagram: @elitismflorence Facebook: @elitismflorence readelitism.com
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Flair
Enrico Coveri photographed by Andy Wharol | www.coveri.com |
ENRICO COVERI
“l’enfant prodige” of fashion
E
nrico Coveri was a great designer who deserves to be counted among the most important in the history of painting in Italian fashion. His joyful sensitivity to colours, his daring, even transgressive use of sequins, bows and volants, had already made him “l’enfant prodige” of fashion at an early age. He was born in 1952, far from the glittering world of the spotlight and that he himself later described as “annoying and cruelly competitive”. But he was fascinated by it and, in order to become part of that universe, he accepted the idea of becoming a model. He was so drawn to this world, that when he was just twenty, in 1974, he designed his first knitwear collection and a few years later moved to Paris where he started producing women’s ready-to-wear fashion. His creativity drove him to experiment with expanding production, beyond fashion, to other products. His first fragrance “Paillettes” seems to be the summary of what he sought in life; joy, light, transgression; even today, after thirty years, it remains one of the most enduring and beloved Italian perfumes. His designs and prints, emphasizing striking extroverted colours, mixed with new and dazzling materials, have none of the constraint of the other fashion creators of his time. Coveri has his own innovative style which focuses on elements that will remain etched in time, the cornerstones of his fashion. He called himself a “Product Man” and his dizzying rise to the top made him proud and proud of himself. He was also adored by great international stars like Elizabeth Taylor, and constantly pursued by the fashion press and paparazzi, which he never escaped. At 38, he had achieved almost everything, working frantically, with enthusiasm and great vitality. Perhaps it was this vitality that was not so generous with him, suddenly abandoning him in the midst of success. In everyone‘s memory, he will remain a star who always shone under the banner of success. by Marta Matteini 28 readelitism.com
Hear ye, hear ye! Jesus Christ Superstar (Teatro Verdi 17 e 18 /10 )
MBE
R∙ SE E B
CTOBE
∙NOVEM Tommy Emmanuel (Obihall 5/11)
R
R
P
TE
∙O
Laura Pausini (Mandela Forum 6 e 7 /10)
Angelo Branduardi (Teatro Verdi 10/11)
David Garrett (Mandela Forum 19/10)
On the right: Santo Stefano al Ponte
No, you can’t miss it C
hurch of Santo Stefano al Ponte >> Not far from the Ponte Vecchio, this Church -Auditorium is the result of numerous alterations carried out over the centuries. Among the most significant are the seventeenth-century renovations that remodeled the interior, creating a highly original architecture made up of broken lines, devoid of any curve. Wonderful works of art are housed within, including the beautiful staircase with a marble balustrade designed by Buontalenti and dating to 1574. The church’s excellent acoustics, its location in the historic center of Florence as well as its magnificently decorated interior, make this a unique center of “edutainment”. In fact, since 2015, this space has hosted some marvelous full-immersion multimedia exhibitions. Via Gino Capponi >> This street is lined with noble palaces, including the Capponi Farinola and important gardens such as the Semplici and the San Clemente Gardens. At the end of the street is the Convent of the Capponcina, bordering the Gherardesca Gardens. Piazzetta Dè Cimatori >> Here are craft shops, some old-style shops and the famous Antico Trippaio, which has been serving up tripe and lampredotto for about 80 years. Colonna dell’Abbondanza (Column of Abundance) >> Located in Piazza della Repubblica, it is also called Colonna della Dovizia (Column of Wealth). Dating back to 1431, it is considered to be the true heart of the city. The statue at the top represents Abundance. Chiostro degli Angeli (Cloister of the Angels) >> In Viale Amendola, this intimate space is part of the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, representing an intersection of some the greatest Renaissance minds, such as that of Brunelleschi.
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AREZZO ANTIQUARIAN FAIR The pleasure of the “trouvaille”
It was 1968. That year the radio and jukeboxes went crazy with Adriano Celentano and “Azzurro” by Paolo Conte while Patty Pravo leapt to the top of the hit parade with “La Bambola”. Meanwhile the Beatles won the Grammy for “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band”. It was also a fundamental year for Arezzo and its history: here - thanks to an intuition of Ivan Bruschi – what was to become one of the most famous events of the Tuscan city was inaugurated: the Antiquarian Fair. Since then, the Fair, uninterruptedly every first Sunday of the month and the previous Saturday, “occupies” the wonderful historical centre, offering visitors from around the world a great variety of objects and giving enthusiasts and professionals the pleasure of the “trouvaille”. This event, also of economic importance, has a definite social and cultural value for the life of Arezzo. An ongoing commitment in which the Municipal Administration of Arezzo is at the forefront, it has taken the baton from Ivan Bruschi and together with the Chamber of Commerce, invests substantial resources in
the Antiquarian Fair every year. Along with the two institutions, the newly created Arezzo Intour Foundation has been running for a few months now, established to manage Arezzo as a tourist destination, and is already working to strengthen and consolidate the event’s international image. A new distribution of stalls allows hundreds of exhibitors every month to trade in art objects, furniture, jewellery, bijoux, watches, books and antique prints, scientific and musical instruments and all types of collectibles. And for those who are not so keen on antiquity, there is also the chance to browse through a vast assortment of modern, vintage and quality handicrafts. www. fieraantiquaria.org.
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Our Selection
02 / SOTF
01 / LOUIS VUITTON
06 / OTTODAME
05 / TIE YOUR TIE FLORENCE 04 / FELTRINELLI 03 / I VISIONARI
01 / LOUIS VUITTON | TURBOLENCES | PARFUM POUR FEMME | € 210 Piazza degli Strozzi 10r www.louisvuitton.com
04 / FELTRINELLI | FLORENCE: THE BIOGRAPHY OF A CITY | € 16 Piazza della Stazione 14
02 / SOTF | ISABEL MARANT BOOTS | € 692 Via Dei Tornabuoni 17r www.sotf.com
05 / TIE YOUR TIE FLORENCE | TIES AND MENSWEAR | € 220 PIAZZA DEI RUCELLAI www.tieyourtieflorence.com
03 / I VISIONARI | AALTO BLUE PEARL EYEWEAR | € 179 Piazza Nazario Sauro 14r www.ivisionari.com
06 / OTTODAME | SHOPPING BAG IN CANVAS | € 110 Via della Spada 19 www.ottodame.it
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Da Vinci
Experience and his real machines From May 12 to October 7 - 2018 every day 10.00 am 7.30 pm Complex of Santo Stefano al Ponte Piazza di Santo Stefano, 5 – Firenze
www.davinciexperience.it / www.ctcrossmedia.com
Extended until November 4
Produced by
Gucci Garden By Riarna Stewart
Inside the Gucci Garden
I
n 2011 the Gucci Museum was instituted in Florence, It can be found in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia (which means palace of the merchandise) in Piazza della Signoria. The museum showcases some of Gucci’s most famous fashion ensembles and displays the brands journey from start to present. The museum holds three floors and each floor consists of rooms that captivates visitors, giving them an experience that they won’t forget. The museum celebrates and promotes the history of Gucci, visitors can enjoy an array of merchandise from Gucci over the years, while also discovering how the brand became such a global sensation. Gucci’s new creative director Alessandro Michele is the brains behind the concept of the Gucci garden. He wanted to show the wide ranging creativity behind the brand in a place where it all began, Florence.
Gucci Garden is also home to one of the best chefs in the world. Massimo Bottura, he holds three Michelin stars and is the creator behind the exquisite food that is served at Gucci Osteria, the restaurant within the Gucci Garden. As well as a restaurant there is also a library, café and a social room which are all open for guests to use. The name ‘Gucci Garden’ is a representation of Guccio Gucci’s love of nature, this can also be spotted on one of the floors which showcases Gucci’s passion for the plant kingdom, using illustrations of animals such as butterflies and birds and also flowers to create the feeling of being in the presence of Nature as soon as they enter the room. The walls of the Gucci museum are full of quirky illustrations and quotes, one wall that is very popular within the museum is one designed by Jayde Fish. She’s a young illustrator from San Francisco that Alessandro Michele found using social media. Another room within the museum is the Cosmorama room, this room is an exhibition of various Gucci luggage designs over the years. In here you can see some of the first designs that Guccio Gucci designed which didn’t even have the famous brand logo on there, you can see the evolution of materials and how the designs changed through time. Luggage was a huge passion for Gucci as this was his starting point of the now global sensation, The brand was founded in 1921 and it all started when Guccio Gucci worked as a porter at the Savoy Hotel in London, he loved seeing the different luxury luggage that guests brought while staying at the hotel and this influenced him to start up his own luggage business in Florence. A lot of people loved his designs and craved more, his most frequent customers where from upper-class families and enjoyed horse racing as a sport and they would request things other than luggage such as clothing and this is when Guccio Gucci decided to branch out and create designs for bags, scarves, belts, gloves and clothing. In 1938 he opened a store in Rome followed by Milan in 1951 and then he further expanded over sea’s to Manhattan in 1953. The suitcases within the museum are a real visual representation of Gucci’s passion for leather and luggage. To end the epic experience the last room on the top floor within the museum focuses on the legacy that Gucci has built, archives of fashion shows over the years and previous campaigns that Gucci have done are projected all over the walls within the Ephemera room, showcasing to visitors the real history of Gucci. This museum in the heart of where the founder Guccio Gucci was born shows how much success can be achieved through keeping creative, hard work, determination and doing things that you are passionate about. www.gucci.com
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www.ctcrossmedia.com
The Historical monument of Santo Stefano al Ponte Walking down Via Por Santa Maria in Florence, perhaps heading to Ponte Vecchio, or Palazzo Pitti, you can notice a small square that opens half hidden on the left side of the road. There is the former church of Santo Stefano al Ponte, one of the hidden treasures that abound in the city. It is one of the oldest churches in Florence, but was deconsecrated in 1986. Already in the facade, which dates back to 1233, we realize that you have in front of a precious architectural jewel. The beautiful portal in white and green marble of Prato and the two doors surmounted by small mullioned windows, are in perfect Romanesque style, while the upper part is the result of renovation took place later, in the Gothic period. Santo Stefano offers even inside some nice surprises. First of all the amazing staircase Buontalenti, 1574, which was designed to Santa Trinita and only later moved here. Despite the eclectic Florentine artist had not design it to occupy the space in front of the altar of St. Stephen, there he found an ideal location by establishing a silent exchange between the church and the stairway that enhances both. Mannerist style resumes from Michelangelo themes of masks and shells that make the architectural work so special: Buontalenti takes it cue from the steps that the great master had wanted for the Laurentian library and do some stretches to extremes. In this way the stone is converted into soft spirals and curved shapes that recall the sinuous folds of cloth. Seen from another point of view, caused by central symmetry and the trend of the decorations from the center out, the staircase recalls the image of a pair of wings and in fact, as evidenced by the design above, it seems that Buontalenti in the line of thinking he wanted to transpose its balustrade forms a winged gargoyle. Then the altar designed by Giambologna in 1591, not to mention the numerous paintings and crucifixes dating from the Renaissance period. In the loggia of the fifteenth century you can still admire the perfectly preserved tombs and marble headstones of members of some noble Florentine families.
Multimedia events: currently showing Da Vinci Experience – the extraordinary multimedia installation dedicated to the genius of Leonardo and produced by Crossmedia Group. An itinerary structured around Leonardo’s scientific discoveries and the diverse endeavors undertaken in a variety of disciplines. A format that will allow you to discover the many model machines on display; the new digital totems with 3D renditions of hydraulic and war machines; and the designated touchscreen stations with extra information on the works displayed in the immersive room. The Florentine edition can be considered in its own right a preview of what will be, both in Italy and the rest of the world, the 2019 celebrations of the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s death.
The concerts at Santo Stefano al Ponte Santo Stefano al Ponte’s musical program is never ending. The classical music concert season continues following this summer’s successes. We have chosen to retain the former church’s musical role even in the space’s new form and nature. Make sure you’re available for the first round of concerts scheduled until the end of October: you can find the 3 Tenors performing every Tuesday and Friday, and Vivaldi’s Four Seasons every Wednesday and Saturday. Tickets are on sale at the Santo Stefano al Ponte box-office and online at www.classictic.com.
INFO Da Vinci Experience | Florence May 12th – October 7th 2018 Opening hours: Open every day from 10.00 am – 7.30 pm Last entry at 6.30 pm
Complex of Santo Stefano al Ponte Piazza di Santo Stefano, 5 – Firenze Info: + 39.055.217418 | www.santostefanoalponte.it Email: info@santostefanoalponte.it
www.ctcrossmedia.com
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CENTRO*SESTO
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IMPRUNETA SAN CASCIANO
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Supermarket CAMPI BISENZIO Via B. Buozzi, Campi Bisenzio IL NETO-SESTO Via G.Leopardi 66, Sesto Fiorentino SIGNA Via Macelli 5 angolo via Argine Strada, Signa
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Con oltre cento punti vendita è il luogo ideale in cui acquistare una grande varietà di prodotti tipici toscani ad un prezzo conveniente. La ricca offerta include anche un ampio assortimento di prodotti senza glutine e biologici.
CASELLINA Via Sollicciano, Scandicci GALLUZZO Via Senese 168r, Firenze IMPRUNETA Via dei Popoli 1, Impruneta SCANDICCI Via Aleardi, angolo via Leopardi, Scandicci
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With over an hundred stores Unicoop Firenze is the ideal place to buy a wide variety of typical Tuscan products at affordable prices. The rich offer also includes a wide range of gluten-free and biological products.
NEARBY
Some real gems to explore, for curious travelers seeking fascinating destinations. Rent a car or a bicycle, hop on a bus take a taxi or lace up your running shoes: some special places await you! 42 readelitism.com
C G I
apalbio This hamlet in southern Tuscany is located on a hill covered with typical Maremma underbrush. The walk along the city walls is marvelous and visitors can go all the way around the ancient sentries’ walkway and enjoy a vast and evocative view of the surrounding countryside. The Chiarone, Macchiatonda and Torba beaches are famous, and art lovers absolutely must visit the artist Niki de Saint Phalle’s Garden of the Tarocchi.
rosseto This political and economic center of the Maremma is 20 km from the seaside: ideal for exploring the surrounding hills and the nearby sea, the city - very peaceful for families - offers visitors unexpected surprises. The city’s historical center is very quaint, enclosed by the ancient Medicean walls that have still maintain their original appearance. The major public works of creating pedestrian zones in the city has also contributed to making this place more human.
sola del Giglio Located in the Tuscan Archipelago, this pearl is truly worth exploring. With its 24 square kilometers of land, it is renowned for its emeraldgreen crystalline sea, with thriving seabeds, beautiful beaches and a coast characterized by small isolated coves: a paradise for diving enthusiasts. Worth visiting are the two villages Giglio Castello, a medieval village located on the highest point of the island, and Giglio Porto, the island’s only port, small, colorful and very picturesque.
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Agenda: For information and to buy tickets: Box Office
www.boxofficetoscana.it - info@boxofficetoscana.it
SEPTEMBER: September 1 Einsturzende Neubauten + Deus + Blonde Redhead Piazza Duomo – Prato September 2 The Zen Circus + A toys orchestra Piazza Duomo – Prato September 2 Way to blue Ex Cinema Excelsior – Prato September 3 De Andrè canta De Andrè Piazza Duomo - Prato
OCTOBER: October 6 + 7 Laura Pausini Nelson Mandela Forum – Firenze October 9 Cory Wong (Vulfpeck) Teatro Lumiere – Pisa October 12 Paolo Fresu e Gianluca Petrella + Handlogic Teatro Verdi – Firenze From 9 to 21 of October La signorina Else La Specola Sala degli Scheletri – Firenze October 16 + 17 Claudio Baglioni Nelson Mandela Forum – Firenze October 17 + 18 Jesus Christ Superstar Teatro Verdi – Firenze October 19 David Garrett & His Band Nelson Mandela Forum – Firenze October 19 Beppe Scardino Sala Vanni – Firenze October 20 Massimo Ranieri Teatro Verdi – Firenze October 20 Caveman Teatro Puccini – Firenze October 22 Luca Carboni Obihall – Firenze From 23 to 28 of October Autobiografia erotica Teatro Puccini – Firenze
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From 23 to 28 of October Filippo Timi - Un cuore di vetro in inverno Teatro della Pergola - Firenze
November 16 + 17 Alessandro Bergonzoni – Trascendi e sali Teatro Puccini – Firenze
October 24 TheGiornalisti Nelson Mandela Forum – Firenze
From 16 to 18 of November Flashdance Teatro Verdi – Firenze
October 26 Iverson – Turner Sala Vanni – Firenze
November 17 Immanuel Casto Viper – Firenze
October 30 The Musical Box Teatro Verdi – Firenze
November 20 Io? Doppio! Up and down Teatro Verdi – Firenze
From 30 October to 4 of November Bella figura Teatro della Pergola – Firenze
November 20 La bella addormentata Teatro Petrarca – Arezzo
NOVEMBER:
From 20 to 25 of November Gabriele Lavia – John Gabriel Borkman Teatro della Pergola – Firenze
From 1 to 4 of November Non mi hai più detto ti amo Teatro Verdi – Firenze November 2 Danil Trifonov Opera di Firenze – Firenze November 2 Pipe Dream Sala Vanni – Firenze November 2+3 Lillo & Greg – Gagmen Teatro Puccini – Firenze November 5 Tommy Emmanuel Obihall – Firenze November 6 Brit Floyd Obihall – Firenze From 9 to 18 of November Luisa Ranieri - The deep blue sea Teatro della Pergola – Firenze November 9 Jakob Bro Trio Sala Vanni – Firenze November 10 Angelo Braunduardi Teatro Verdi – Firenze November 14 Maneskin Obihall – Firenze
November 23 Craig Taborn – Solo piano Sala Vanni – Firenze November 24 Dire Straits Legacy Obihall – Firenze November 23 + 24 Alessandro Benvenuti e Stefano Fresi – Donchisci@tte Teatro Puccini – Firenze November 24 + 25 Stomp Teatro Verdi – Firenze From 27 of November to 2 of December Gabriella Pession e Lino Guanciale – After Miss Julie Teatro della Pergola – Firenze November 28 Malika Ayane Tenax – Firenze November 29 Malika Ayane Teatro Verdi – Firenze November 30 Gabriele Mitelli Ong Sala Vanni – Firenze
Leonardo Da Vinci Experience: Santo Stefano al Ponte - from May 12 to October 7 Codice Colore, Alessandro Grassi Collection: Centro Pecci Prato - from September 7 to December 2
November 15 Nesli Auditorium Flog – Firenze
Fiera di Arezzo: Arezzo City - First Sunday of every Month
November 16 Stefano Tamborrino Seacup Sala Vanni – Firenze
Marina Abramovic, The Cleaner: Palazzo Strozzi - from September 21 to January 20
Sandra Tomboloni
- This is so Contemporary -
“The Italian bad girl” Serena Becagli
S
andra Tomboloni’s universe gives the appearance of playfulness, continuously poised between fantasy and reality. Her way of losing herself in fables and dreams is never an escape, but a profound reflection on everyday life. Her choosing to use such fragile materials as Plasticine or ceramics corresponds to her awareness of the fragility of human beings and of all things, of continuous destruction and reconstruction, leading the artist to deeply identify with her own work. The protagonists are subjects in the making, situations that are not stopped forever in time but stories in which everything is still possible. Many of her works are made with objects recovered from the street, in her desire to include everything that has been marginalized. It is about welcoming and sheltering, building houses and protections, giving new forms to these fragile protagonists who multiply in their individuality, each in search of a place to be, of a relationship with others. They are memories and stories, collected and sewn together almost as if to build a new world. Fresh off the press, published by Gli Ori, is the book that takes stock of the Tuscan artist’s work. This volume traces her artistic career and her commitment to it, her passion for the “street”, and the struggles that have pushed her away from social rules or an ordinary life. The book, edited by Stefania Gori, traces Sandra Tomboloni’s career, investigating both its artistic and biographical aspects and examining its salient phases through the texts and memories of Stefania Gori, Saretto Cincinelli, Colomba d’Apolito, Giovanna Uzzani and Daria Ballerini. Sandra believes in the value of the “discard”, in everything that is on the fringes of society. “Color and the fable, elements that provide the basis of my works, often make the viewer interpret my works as joyful representations of fantastic worlds, but in reality, they encompass numerous reflections on life and what happens. So the use of Plasticine then coincided with the moment in my life when
I started to feel that some things were changing. I wanted to construct something of my own and recover everything that I paid no attention to before, taking back the life and objects that were a part of it. I imagined myself as a child who takes the things that surround her and animates them by giving them her own imprint. Plasticine, so ductile and fragile, lets me create and destroy by giving the idea of being there and then disappearing. What interests me about this material is its capacity to give things substance, to give painting substance, to be both the material and the color, representing construction and destruction, being there and not being there.” Sandra Tomboloni was born in Pelago (Florence) in 1961. She graduated from Florence’s dressmaking school, the Sartoria Tornabuoni, with costume designer Anna Anni, and then from the Academy of Fine Arts. She lives and works in Pontassieve (Florence). Her works have been exhibited in numerous group and solo exhibitions both in Italy and abroad and are part of many collections including that of the Luigi Pecci Centre for Contemporary Art in Prato and the Hudson Valley Center for Contemporary Art, Peskill in New York, a museum in which she was an artist-in-residence. “When I compare myself with space, I always ask myself: where should I position myself ? In the spaces we often feel inadequate, looking for a place that always includes the discourse on acceptance, on life, on representation, on getting involved with the action. I’m drawn to those objects that give me the opportunity to find a refuge, a shelter, a place to recreate small secret worlds where everyone finds their identity.” The writer has had the pleasure of working with Sandra for several years, collaborating or curating projects, and writing texts for her. It is a great pleasure to leaf through a publication that summarizes the career of this extraordinary artist up to this point, while awaiting her new projects.
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Olivetti Lettera 22 This is Tom Hanks ‘ passion!
T
he twice Oscar winner Tom Hanks (Philadelphia 1994 and Forrest Gump 1995 ) loves typewriters , and infact he has been collecting them since 1978 and uses them almost daily. True is that in 2014 he co-developed “Hanx Writer” an app that emulates the experience of using a typewriter and writing with it reproducing the sounds of typing and the clicking of keys. It was a great success , infact when the free app was released within days it reached number one app on the App Store. The Olivetti Lettera 22 is a beautiful, lightweight, portable mechanical typewriter designed by Marcello Nizzoli in 1949. Nizzoli was one of the most influential Italian designers from the 1930s to 1950s. This typewriter was very popular in Italy since the beginning, and it was especially loved by journalists, it still has many fans these days, not only as famous as Tom Hanks, Lady Gaga or the novellist Will Self and the poet and singer Leonard Cohen. And a lot of collectors are still going crazy for it. Our well known Italian journalist and newspaper director Indro Montanelli has always used his Lettera 22 which he carried almost everywhere. It was so much charateristic and distinctive of him to become almost his “trademark” , and infact in Milano in the Giardini Pubblici , the public gardens, there is a monument dedicated to him and his inseparable Lettera 22 , which was indeed inspired from a photo of the 50s of Indro Montanelli. The Olivetti Lettera 22 was awarded the Compasso d’oro prize in 1954 while in 1959 the Illinois Institute of Technology chose the Lettera 22 as the first of the 100 best design products of the previous 100 years, and since 1952 Lettera 22 is showing in
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the permanent collection of the MoMA New York’s Museum of Modern Art and it is now also in the permanent collection at the Triennale Design Museum in Milano. “The Olivetti Lettera 22 is quite clearly a portable typewriter of the most up to date design and of fine workmanship….the Lettera 22 corresponds in performance to the very latest standard machines…” From the “ Instructions for the use of the Olivetti lettera 22 typewriter .“ It was 1950. A manual ( called a “ book “ ) that was itself a beautiful piece of graphic design, printed in black but with pale greens, tourquoise and reds which makes it a luxery item as much as the Lettera 22 . A manual with its very distinctive own personality. ‘A few minutes spent in reading this book will enable the novice and the experienced typist alike to get the very best out of this excellent typewriter’. When the Olivetti Lettera 22 typewriter came out in 1950, the blue was the most common color, but was also available in green and gray colours. Lettera 22 still today is an object of cult with its red and blue( or black ) ribbon, which all of us who has used one , knows what it stands for. The famous bicolor ribbon… how many of us got dirty hands with it…. “ with the lever set opposite the blue dot, typing takes place on the upper half of the ribbon when set opposite the red dot, the typing takes place on the lower half ”. And also, who has used the lettera 22 remembers that , as the instructions indicate: “to insert the paper lift the bail rod and slide the paper behind the platen (roller ) turning the platen until the paper emerges at the front “. Gestures that refresh and bring back old memories and sounds. Time to look for one to write about your vacation in Florence… Have fun! By Cinzia Azzerboni
La Dolce Vita Design edition
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By Cinzia Azzerboni
Her love life better than a romance and the ideal plot for a romantic movie. Men all went crazy for her, ready to go wild and do just anything to seduce her, hoping and begging , to be reciprocated. All except one, Frank Sinatra, the only man who resisted her. With him she failed, her magnetic powerful charme did not work it’s magic with Sinatra, much to her chagrin. She was much loved and even much more desired, chased and venerated. There are anectodes of the many follies men and art directors did on the sets while they were shooting. It was said she had many lovers, a long list, some of them were real, others were not. The fiancé she loved very much died in a plane crash. She then married and had two children. However, it is only after her death through her private diary that, it was revealed the overwhelming passion between her and
She was born Alida Maria von Altenburger baronessa von Markenstein und Frauenberg , but known to all simply as Alida Valli, a last name she said she picked at random in the phone directory. For quite a long time her nickname was “ la fidanzata d’Italia” the fiancée of Italy, and she was indeed the most loved woman in Italy, and also the true icon of the so called “ cinema dei telefoni bianchi” (cinema white telephones or cinema deco). Of an unique charme, she was an elegant, very sophisticated and extraordinary beauty. Her ice eyes of an incredible amazing blue lavander colour bewitched everybody who caught her eye.
Alida Valli Only Frank Sinatra said no.
For her extraordinary looks, her great talent, her busy love life and also her big chocolate addiction…you can only agree with me that for sure Alida Valli was not a woman to go unnoticed.
It was also said that she was a spy, like Mata Hari passing information on to the Nazis, but this was only a legend, fantasies that were totally refuted with evidence by US Secret Services.
But she was not only a femme fatale and an incredible beautiful woman, she was also a very talented actress. She started very young, was only a teenager when she won her first important award. She played in over 150 movies with the best art directors from Luchino Visconti, Michelangelo Antonioni, Bernardo Bertolucci, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Mario Soldati, Gillo pontecorvo, Valerio Zurlini and several others, and during her long career she received very prestigious awards. In 1954 probably one of her best performance was in “Senso” Luchino Visconti’s masterpiece. Also Hollywood wanted her and there she worked with the great Alfred Hitchcock in “The Paradine case” (1947) starring with Gregory Peck and in “ The third man” starring with Orson Welles, Joseph Cotten ,Trevor Howard, a movie which is considered one of the best movies in the history of the international cinema. In the 50’ and 60’ she also worked in the new french cinema, with Roger Vadim, Claude Chabrol and others. She also worked in theatre and television.
Carol Reed the art director of “ The third man”. A crazy love that consumed and deeply touched, and changed forever, both of them, never to be the same again.
Style Icon Alida Valli
FONTANELLI ALTA QUALITĂ€ PUBLIACQUA
SESTO FIORENTINO
Un travolgente. Ansuccesso overwhelming success. Oltre 270 milioni di litri erogati over 350 million litersdiofacqua water supplied dal 2011 ad oggi. from 2011 to today
Piazza Primo Maggio Via della Sala
Parco S
Piazza Garibal
Piazza della Crezia Via Chiusi Villa Vogel Via del Pantano
Via D
SCANDICCI
22FONTANELLI fountains 22 installed onterritorio the distribuiti nel di Firenze territory of Florence
350 millions 270 MILIONI of liters supplied by the 95
di litri erogati installed dal 2011 al fountains in 2016 the Publiacqua area
FIESOLE
Via delle Panche Piazza Dalmazia
San Donato
ldi
SETTIGNANO
Via Maragliano Piazza Vittoria
Florence
Dosio
6
Via Manfredo Fanti
Via dell’Agnolo Piazza Signoria Piazza Tasso
Via del Mezzetta Via Aretina Parco Anconella Piazza Bartali
ARCETRI
Piazza Puliti
180 MILIONI 180 millions
di bottiglie di citizens plastica not spent by risparmiate
72 MILIONI 230 millions
di euro risparmiati of bottles not produced dai cittadini
F L O R E N C E
See it, snap it, share it. There’s something magical around every corner.
#elitismflorence
See you next time in Florence. We can’t wait to welcome you again. www.readelitism.com
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