Łowicz guidebook EN

 with tour maps

All the colours of Łowicz and Ziemia Łowicka  Gems of architecture  Unique history  Folklore which is alive

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70 SielceCzatolin Zbrożkowa Zakulin Ziewanice STARBACICHA Karnków Długokąty-Lewe Ostrołęka GRABINA RUDA Kamień Bronisławów Mokra Łyszkowice Jacochów RAWKA Budy-Kałki Wola Makowska Lewa Kadzielin Topola Pludwiny E30 Jarmużka Karasica Kol. Łyszkowice Pszczonów Albinów zkie Domaradzyn A1 Wola łód ieckie Miedniewice SKIERNIEWICE GŁOWNO Lubiankowska Maków-Kol. 704 oj.

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Welcome to Łowicz – the capital of the historic Duchy of Łowicz For me, it is not an easy task to describe the phenomenon of this castle-town, guarded by two silver, armorial Pelicans. Especially that Łowicz, with its interesting history, unique atmosphere, and its inhabitants’ kindness and hospitality, is so dear to me.

It is just like the Łowicz’s cut-out: beautiful, intriguing, colourful, bustling with energy and life – just one of its kind. It is worth seeing it with your own eyes, hiking among numerous monuments, walking the triangle market square, visiting colourful rural farmhouses in the very heart of the city, admiring the collection of the famous museum which one can easily close in a suitcase, sampling great ducal belly timber, walking through the great Aleja Gwiozd...

And this is just the beginning of the long list of highlights. There is always something interesting happening in Łowicz. Celebrations, festivals, exhibitions, concerts, folklore performances or folklore artists’ presentations – they always have unique settings. This town is the capital of Łowicz’s traditions, that (and this makes me enormously happy) live not only in heritage parks, museums, or Corpus Christi ceremonies and folklore events. Today Łowicz’s patterns are on T-shirts for adolescents, bags and other accessories, and more and more couples get married in traditional folk costumes. Folk art displays and workshops are really popular. Łowicz is also an ideal base for an outing to visit some surroundings full of highlights, as Nieborów, the beautiful Arkadia or a heritage park in Maurzyce. The beauty of Łowicz’s lands can be explored in different ways – on a bike, in a saddle, on foot, by car or in a kayak.

I hope that the guide you are holding in your hands will inspire you, prompt some ideas and encourage you to visit Łowicz. It’s worth it!

Krzysztof Jan Kaliński

The Mayor of the town of Łowicz

Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

ALL ROADS LEAD TO ŁOWICZ It’s not difficult to get to Łowicz, which is located in the very heart of Poland. It’s just one hour from Warsaw, by car or by train, and it is just half an hour from Łódź. The national road from Warsaw to Poznań runs through the town. Łowicz also has convenient direct train links with Kraków, Szczecin, Terespol and many more city centres. Main roads, from the east to the west of Europe and from Scandinavia to the south of Europe, cross near Łowicz. Important trunk line Berlin–Warsaw–Moscow runs through the town.

• Łowicz is one of the oldest towns in Poland. The first mention about the town dates back to 1136 and it was granted city charter prior to 1298.

• It is located in the centre of Poland, upon Bzura, in the northern part of Równina Łowicko-Błońska.

• It has the surface of over 23 km2.

• It has over 28 thousand inhabitants.

• It has 101 registered monuments.

Pelicans in the crest One of the legends tells us the story of the Duke of Masovia who, while hunting a sturdy dear, got lost in precipitous backwoods. He spent hours wandering through the swamps, and when he almost lost strength and hope for a rescue, he came across a nest of pelicans. The birds took care of him – they fed him, watered him and showed the path to a nearest settlement. There its inhabitants took tender care of him, and when he recovered, they showed him the path to the Duke’s court.

The Duke returned the favour with a trunk of gold, and thank to this gift the modest settlement flourished into a town. The Duke had arranged to put beautiful and noble pelicans who brought him salvage in the crest.

According to the legend, the name of the town evokes the memorable hunt (Polish łowy), which opened the floodgates of the town’s existence. However, historians believe that it derives from an old hunting settlement, where the Dukes of Masovia started their journeys to hunt in the backwoods full of game. After some time, they reared a castle-town upon Bzura, where a hunting settlement was developed.

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There are several trademarks for the Łowicz’s territor y. These are highlights you can’t find elsewhere.

Among them there is the New Market (Nowy Rynek). It is one of only three triangular market squares, along with those in Bonn and Paris, preserved in its original form. You can admire Aleja Gwiozd, dedicated to folk artists, at Łowicz’s Old Market (Stary Rynek). It consists of boards made of tempered glass, with the Łowicz’s cut-out – “gwiozda” – with the names of those honoured.

Among them, there are masters of sculpting, lace-making, painting, pottery, weaving, embroidery, wattle-making, ritual craftwork, cut-out making, dance, and music. Gwiozdy are awarded to those who promote the folklore and cultural heritage of the Łowicz County. When celebrating the ceremony of Corpus Christi, the Old Market (Stary Rynek) flickers with all the hues of rainbow – the fabulously colourful folk costumes, flowers, feretories – all these things make the processions in Łowicz a world class phenomenon. They attract crowds of tourists and photographers from the whole country and abroad every year. Łowicz is also famous thanks to an exceptionally small Museum of Buttons (Muzeum Guzików). Its collections are kept in a suitcase from the 19th century which once was owned by a merchant from Łowicz, whose name was Bolesław Modest Majewski.

The creator of this museum, Jacek Rutkowski, managed to gather a collection with buttons of people who were merited for history, politicians, poets, writers, and many other famous people. One of the trademarks of this region’s cuisine are delicious preserves from Łowicz. Although through the years processing plants have overcome different changes, the reputation for the brand remained the same. Many of the ingredients used to prepare delicious jams, preserves, purees, ketchups, juices and other conserves, come from local farmers. The banks of the river Słudwia near Łowicz are connected by one of the most famous bridges in Poland, which was awarded the title of a “well-mantained monument”.

It is the first welded road bridge, and it was designed by engineer Stefan Bryła. In the nearby Sromowo you can visit Muzeum Ludowe Rodziny Brzozowskich (the Folk Museum of the Brzozowscy Family), which prides itself with the biggest private collection of folk sculptures which present scenes from the life of the Łowicz’s village. There are more than 600 of them. They were made by the founder of the museum, Julian Brzostowski and other members of his artistic family.

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Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

In Łowicz only

Did you know ... in the Museum of Buttons there are buttons that belonged to people like John Paul II, priest Jerzy Popiełuszko, and the Noble prize winners, Wisława Szymborska and Czesław Miłosz

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The colourful folklore of Łowicz, which spans the areas of the old Duchy of Łowicz, is one of Polish showcases. Gorgeous cut-outs, costumes which flicker with all the colours, dances, rituals, and cant, all are the most distinguishable elements of it. The richness of Łowicz’s traditions can be admired during the procession of Corpus Christi, and also during recurrent ingm um en teresting events. The examples se to f th Mu e r e of Łowicz’s folk handicraft are prelo expos ition in Folk sented in the museum in Łowicz by the Old Market. Visiting the mini heritage park, which is active nearby, and the heritage park of the Łowicz’s village in the nearby Maurzyce, is a must. A visit in a heritage park draws closer the folk constructions of Łowicz, which gives an opportunity to travel in time to the Łowicz’s serfdom village at the turn of the 18 th and the 19 th centuries (its shape reminds a rundling with a central village square), as well as to a village which has been subject to the process of post-joinin farmlands from the second half of the 19 th and 20 th century (the so-called ulicówka). in

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Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

The capital of Łowicz’s folklore

Participation in weekend folk workshops, organised at the mini heritage park by the museum in Łowicz and at the heritage park in Maurzyce, is an interesting way to get to know the folklore of Łowicz.

During the activities under the professional eye of folk artists, you may have embroidery of Łowicz taped, create a handmade duvet, a gwiozda, or a tasiemka (the types of the Łowicz’s cut-outs). You can also create flowers from paper, make things from clay, or sculpture.

On every Sunday of June, July, and August at 1 pm, the PTTK guides invite all the history geeks to explore the story of this town and the Duchy of Łowicz.

Recurrent events „Och! Film Festiwal” – a celebration of both cinema and film. It takes place every February for a whole month in the “Fenix” cinema. Not only are there film presentations, but audience have the opportunity to participate in many accompanying events. The festival has been co-founded on many occasions by the Polish Film Institute.

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Souvenirs from Łowicz Dolls in colourful Łowicz’s costumes used to be the most popular souvenir. Today, the creativity of those who create souvenirs has no limitations: big, small and tiny bags, cases for mobile phones, eyeglasses, ties, belts, bracelets, hangers, potter y, saucepans, T-shirts, bookmarkers – all those products are, of course, ornamented with spectacular patterns of Łowicz. Those who hunt for souvenirs will find out that Łowicz is a real paradise for them. The biggest shop with folk art by local artists can be found in Galeria Łowicka (ul. Stanisławskiego 10). You should also visit the Cepelia by the Stary Rynek (no. 11).

Spend your time actively Łowicz and Ziemia Łowicka are perfect for active tourism. Both the city and the region are crossed by interesting trails, as Szlak Książęcy (14 km) – a bicycle route which starts at Łowicz’s Stary Rynek and ends in Nieborów. The Dwory i kościoły bicycle route (123 km) leads through the places which are related to the history of Maria Walewska

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Did you know that…

The procession of Corpus Christi was registered in the list of unmaterial heritage of UNESCO. It starts with a mass in the Basilica Cathedral at 10.30 am. Then it leads through the streets of the town and ends at the Old Market Square.

Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

The Księżacy Festival on Corpus Christi in Łowicz – a recurrent event which takes place at Nowy Rynek (New Market). It is accompanied by a fair of the artistic handicraft, folk workshops (led by the folk artists of Ziemia Łowicka), artistic performances. After a ceremonial Corpus Christi procession, a colourful parade goes through the streets of Łowicz. It is called a “Parada Pasiaków”, with the Książanka and Księżak of the Year. The parade starts at the Old Market (Stary Rynek) and then it leads through the following streets: 11 listopada, Al. Sienkiewicza, Sikorskiego, Kurkowa, Stanisławskiego, and finishes on the Nowy Rynek square.

Days of Łowicz – a two-day event with numerous open air concerts where popular Polish bands play.

Księżackie Jadło – Festival of Good Food – at each second weekend of September. It is a regional cuisine festival. Sampling of dainties is diversified by concerts, workshops, and exhibitions.

International Organ Festival “J.S. Bach” – a real feast for music lovers.

It takes place in July and August at cathedral basilica. Entry fees apply.

Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

(Kiernozia), Józef Chełmoński (Boczki), and Władysław Grabski (Borów), whereas Szable i Bagnety (119 km) is full of historic monuments related to uprisings or events of both world wars. Near Łowicz there is also the Polish Amber Road, a part of the “European Amber Road”, which refers to a trade route, frequented by ancient Roman merchants in order to find the “Baltic gold” on the Baltic Sea coast. There are numerous natural highlights and monuments – parks, manor houses, wooden churches, industrial buildings (fans and watermills), museums, archives, regional collections, and heritage parks.

Ziemia łowicka is crossed by part of Łódzki Szlak Konny, a bridle-way, which is the longest route for horse-riding tourism lovers in Europe.

It is full of highlights: historic buildings, museums, places for leisure, picturesque locations. It is also perfect for enthusiasts of hiking, cycling and nautical tourism. Furthermore, there is a kayaking route from Sobota to Kompina.

Places you should see nearby... Łowicz is an excellent starting point to see interesting historical buildings, because the nearby area is full of them. This includes places like Arkadia, which is one of the most beautiful romantic and sentimental parks with pieces by outstanding architects and artists. If you visit Nieborów, you shouldn’t forget to visit the 17th century palace with a collections of paintings by European masters, applied arts, ornamental arts, as well as an impressive library. Other elements of this complex include: french and english gardens, a hothouse, a brewery, and a granary from the late 18 th century. Kiernozia is famous for its classicistic palace, where Maria Łączyńska (later known as Walewska), Napoleon’s lover, was born. Another place related to her is Walewice, where a classicistic palace from 1783 was preserved, and where Mrs Walewska gave birth to the emperor’s son. Currently, this complex is the seat of the company named “Stadnina Koni Walewice”, which breeds half-blood Arabian horses. There are also numerous, valuable religious monuments near Łowicz. There is a gothic church in Bielawy, from the beginning of the 15th century. It is one of the most precious monuments of the so-called Masovian Gothic. You should also see the gothic-renaissance church, and a neogothic castle from the 19 th century (surrounded by a landscape park) in Sobota. Chruślin prides itself with a gothic and renaissance church with interesting stained-glass windows and frescos by Zofia Baudoine de Courtenay. On the other hand, in Domaniewice you can visit a baroque chapel with one of the most interesting organ prospects in the world. The prospect has a shape of a crowned eagle, with his wings spread. It was created in 1759. Tours following the remnants of dying out

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Famous people from Łowicz Through centuries the city was made famous by many people, including the rector of Akademia Krakowska, Adam of Bocheń, the doctor Cyprian of Łowicz, the botanist Szymon of Łowicz, Michowit Stanisław of Łowicz, the Piarist Glicerius of Baxter. Many eminent Poles are connected with Łowicz. These include politicians (Władysław Grabski, the prime minister of the Second Adam of Bocheń, Republic of Poland; Stefan Starzyński, the woodcut from the early 16th century heroic president of Warsaw), painters (Józef Chełmoński, Stanisław Nowakowski), actors (Ludwik Benoit, Daniel Olbrychski), writers (Teodor Goździkiewicz). Łowicz is also the city where Bolesława Lament, blessed by the Catholic Church, was born.

Józef Chełmoński (1849-1914) was born in Boczki, which are named after him as Boczki Chełmońskie. He was one of the leading representatives of the realist school, and was best known for his lively painting of galloping herd of horses, as well as generic rural scenes, like: “Babie lato” and “Bociany”.

Stefan Starzyński, the president of Warsaw from 1934 to 1939, spent his childhood in Łowicz. He was the student of Łowicka Szkoła Realna (Real Łowicz’s School). For his part in the school strike with his brothers Roman and Mieczysław, he was relegated from the school, and later he continued his education in Warsaw. His mother ran a school in Łowicz, while his father own an art and sculpturing atelier. Starzyńscy lived in a house at ul. Zduńska, and a memorial on the building reminds us about it.

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Under the wings of a silver pelican – all you should know about Łowicz… and much more!

professions are another interesting proposal. In Bednary you may find a monumental enclosure with a workshop where you can admire the work of a cooper. Over 500 showpieces have veen collected here. They are related to this dying out profession and the life of the villages of Łowicz. Warsztat Garncarski Rodziny Konopczyńskich (Pottery Workshop of the Konopczyńscy Family) with a tradition of 200 years is a highlight of Bolimowo; it is also the only one which survived up until now (in the past there were dozens of them). It is here that you may find out yourself that pots are not made by saints (according to an old Polish saying). Also, with the guidance of a professional you can try pottery yourself.

Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

IN THE LAND OF THE BISHOPS Most likely in the 12th century, in the area of the ruins of today’s castle there was a fortified settlement which, in a matter of years, was transformed into a castrum (a castle). Łowicz was then a settlement with a parish church, and some ancillary settlements developed around, today’s Zduny, Bednary, Bobrowniki. The oldest district of the subsequent town was situated „under the fortified settlement”, so it was called, from Polish, a Podgrodzie, and its centre was designated by a square with a nearby Saint John the Baptist’s church.

The castle in Łowicz in the half of the 17th century

The oldest mention of Łowicz may be found in bulla of the pope Innocent II, which was published in Pisa on July 7th 1136. This document confirmed the rights of the archbishops of Gniezno to the nearby land. We may find the following there: Łowicz and its tithe, peasants, landowners and the residents of those lands, hunting rights and game, as well as the whole secular jurisdiction, belongs only to the [arch]bishop. Between 1214 and 1215 the dukes who fought with Henry the Bearded and Władysław III Spindleshanks confirmed in a so-called „privilege of the four young dukes” the right of archbishops to Łowicz. However, they didn’t totally exclude it from the secular power. In a so-called great privilege from 1242, released by the Duke Konrad I of Masovia, the wealth of Łowiecz is describved as a castellany, while Łowicz – as a villa (village). In 1298 the Duke of Płock, Bolesław II, bestowed upon archbishops the privilege to make their own coins – in this document, Łowicz is described as an oppidum, which means it was a town at the time.

The Duchy of Łowicz was the name for the lands belonging to the archbishops of Gniezno, which spreaded around Łowicz, on the bigger part of today’s powiat łowicki and the western part of powiat skierniewicki.

The duchy developed intensely thanks to subsequent conferrments and privileges from the king. In the 16th century it consisted of two cities (Łowicz and Skierniewice) and 116 villages. Two frontier posts from the beginning of the 19th century are the proof of previous separateness.

In the 14th century the archbishop Jarosław Bogoria of Skotniki erected a brick gothic castle upon Bzura, and it was a starting point for the primate Did you know...?

In the middle of the 17th century Andrzej Cellariusz wrote: “a castle, surrounded by mud, decorated with beautiful buildings”.

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Saint Victoria is the fautor of Łowicz. Her relics were brought by the archbishop Henryk Firlej. According to the legend, while travelling from Rome, the horses which were pulling the cart brining the sacred remains, stopped in Łowicz „and no one could convince them to go any further”. This was interpreted as a sign to leave the relics of the saint there.

The golden age as crown lands

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After the incorporation of the south-western Masovia to the Crown (1462–1476), the wealths of Łowicz kept a significant level of separateness, and all the next rulers only confirmed the privileges of Łowicz and granted it some new ones. In the beginning of t 17 the 16th century the city had approximately 3000 Castl de pl mi e a h n t s from inhabitants and it developed intensively, thanks to county fairs which were organised in each of its three parts. The greatest of them all, which was celebrated on Saint Matthew’s day (it started on 21 September) took place for 6 weeks. Łowicz is a one big marketplace, and the trade here has no end. Łowicz is superior in trading with Lithuania than Poznań is – these are the words the officials sent by the king, who visited the town. Merchants sold mainly cattle, horses, and salt. They also sold grain which was transported through Wisła to Gdańsk. In 1525 the city was destroyed by fire. After that, the archbishop Jan Łaski regulated the urban planning scheme. Then a new and majestic town hall was built. Also, the collegiate and the primatial castle were extended, all important streets were cobbled, four entry gates were built, and a printing house was established. Sons of the wealthiest citizens were educated in Akademia Krakowska, as well as at the universities in Bologna or Padua.

In the past, there were three towers in a crest of Łowicz. They might have symbolised three parts of the town prior to their merging by the archbishop Wincenty Kot. The pelicans, which were added to the town’s crest in 1497, constituted a local “natural abnormality” – it is said that sometimes, during their trips from the south, they got to the swamps of Bzura. Pelicans are a religious symbol and they indicate the fatherly mercy and care of the primates for the city.

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Did you know...?.

The king Sigsimund II Augustus granted the following privilege: “freedom to ship goods to Gdańsk and from Gdańsk through Vistula to merchants and citizens of Łowicz”.

Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

residence. In the beginning of the 15th century Łowicz consisted of three parts: Podgrodzie, Stare Miasto and Nowe Miasto. All those parts were united into one urban entity by the archbishop Mikołaj Trąba. In 1433, the archbishop Wojciech Jastrzębiec created a primatial chapter by the collegiate church of Najświętsza Maria Panna. By this collegiate, there was also the oldest colony of the Akademia Krakowska in Poland.

Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

Gates without walls And here are some snapshots from an old topography of the town. It had no walls, only by the main tracts there were city gates which were for ordinal purposes. There were always some guards waiting at these gates. The most impressive was the gate at Mostowa, which was built just before the crossing on Bzura. It closed the entry to the city from the north. Over the entry to the gate, between the windows, was a picture of Saint Laurence. During the octave of this saint the citizens of Łowicz chanted songs here and lit lights. Behind the gate there were the so-called góry szubieniczne (gallow mountains), where those sentenced to death by hanging were executed. Rawska Gate (also known as Kierchowska), built before 1584 at Warszawska street (currently 11 listopada street), regulated the traffic coming from the route to Rawa. In a chamber over this gate was a seat of the executioner of Łowicz, while in the tower above criminals were beeing held. Behind the Brama Kierchowska those sentenced to be beheaded were executed. Prior to that, however, there was a square called Koński Targ. Perhaps it was there where first country fairs were organised. It could also serve as a parking space for vehicles owned by merchants. In the 19th century the so-called Pole Marsowe was opened, a training space for the troops of general S. Kilicki which were stationed in Łowicz.

“The last of the executioners of Łowicz, called Michałek, was even called to Łęczyca to execute for judiciary purposes. Those criminals who were to spent some time in a tower, were placed in this building, or in the dungeons in the basement, on the floor of an exceptionally low chamber, or in darkness in the attic, depending on the sentence the offender had been given.” In 1527 primate Jan Łaski ordered that the town participated in the costs of the sentences executed by the executioner, “for the sake of castle of Łowicz”.

The wooden Krakowska Gate, built at the town’s expense (before 1584) on the road leading to Piotrków and Kraków, was the southern border of the town. It was also called Bernardine Gate, after the nearby cloister. In the mid-17th century, primate Maciej Łubieński funded a new brick gate. In 1818 it was bought by the priest Piotr Michałowski, for the church of Saint John.

And this is how in the late 16th century the town was described by J. Święcicki: ...Łowicz, not only in this area, but also in the scale of the whole country, is one of the biggest wooden cities of Poland. (...) Houses of townspeople are built out of light materials, however, they are richly built, often covered with firry shingles...

Did you know...? Łowicz is one of the very few Polish towns which was pictured in the distinguished atlas named “Civitates orbis terrarium”.

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At the turn of the 17 th century, in his famous piece entitled “Civitates orbis terrarium”, G. Braun described Łowicz.

The city itself is located on the second bank of Bzura, in a pleasant place which is good for all the needs of everyday life. It has wide streets and vast squares, and it is marvellously decorated with greatly maintained gardens.

It has beautiful churches: a collegiate with a charming symmetry of construction, three parochial churches, and two adjoining cloisters.

The second capital The primatial castle was not only an impressive, majestically fortified residence of bishops. During the renaissance it shined as the centre of culture, where many scientists, artists, great family’s members, and politicians were gathered. The prestige of this city rose significantly after the last of Jagiellonians, Zygmunt August, died childless in 1572.

During the time of interregnum the duties of the monarch were overtaken by the interrex, primate Jakub Uchański. In next years, during next interrregna, it was here, at the castle of Łowicz, where the political and state life was moved. At that time, the city was compared to Cracow, Lviv, Poznań, or Nuremberg.

“There are so many craft guilds in the town that it seems somehow to follow Nuremberg. It is exceptionally valued not only due to the quantity of different arms, but to its quality, as well as other tools which are created here, so that it is considered in a way an armoury of the whole Kingdom, which might inquestionably equip the greatest of armies”.

G. Braun, F. Hogenberg, 16th/17th century. “... you get [to the town] through a very long bridge, a wooden one (as all in this country), then through the town’s centre, which might be longer than the one in Kraków, but not as wide. The town is really beautiful (...) This castle, built out of stone, is beautiful and has many rooms, where all the people live in comfort. (...) I conducted a mass in Virgin Mary’s collegiate, and this church is rich and beautiful”.

Jan Paweł Mucante, the end of the 16th century

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Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

...There are several markets, the streets are wide, and there is a famous church at the biggest square, as well as a collegium for boys. There is also a chapter, several churches and two cloisters (...). Inhabitants of this town are rich and hospitable for travelers. Merchants dedicate themselves to trading. During set seasons county fairs are frequented by people from all around the world...

Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

Deluge in Łowicz The flowering of the town was halted by the Swedish onslaught. The town surrendered without fighting. It was occupied from September 1655 to June 1657. Some parts were burned, temples were ravaged and loots were taken. The citizens were burdened with high taxes. Before their escape, they blew up the primatial castle. The destruction was completed with other disasters: the onslaught of the duke of Transylvania, George II Rakoczi; the levies which were imposed upon citizens by the general of emperor’s allied troops, Louis de Souches; and two epidemics of plague.

The symptoms which signaled that the economic life was being reborn began in the middle of the 18 th century. However, further development was distracted by the annexations.

After the partitions During the annexation, the confiscated wealth which had belonged to primates, became property of the Prussian government. After the Napoleonic wars and the creation of the Duchy of Warsaw, the emperor granted the Duchy of Łowicz to the marshall Davout.

In 1820, Alexander I granted it to his brother, the Duke Konstantin, giving it back its previous name of the Duchy of Łowicz. The wife of Konstantin, Joanna (born Grudzińska), became the co-owner; she got the title of the Duchess of Łowicz.

In 1845, Łowicz was granted a train connection to Warsaw. In 1858 and 1859, there were Boundary landmark of the some farm expositions of the Kingdom of Poland, and Duchy of Łowicz the whole event was intensively commented throughout the polish land. In 1879 the first cultural institution was created and it was called a Volunteer Fire Department (Straż Ogniowa Ochotnicza), one of the very first in the Kingdom of Poland. Similarly, the department of the Polish Sightseeing Society (Polskie Towarzystwo Krajoznawcze, PTK) was established in 1908. In the beginning of the 20th century, even in the times of annexation, the town had two museums. Łowicz always took part in important historical events. During the Napoleonic era, the common land of Łowicz the last mobilisation of volunteers willing to join the legions of the general Dąbrowski, took place. The citizens actively participated in the November and January Uprisings. In 1905, in the Łowicz’s Real School, a student strike took place. They protested against the education being conducted in russian and they demanded that the polish language should be reintroduced into schools.

Did you know…?

Aniela Chmielińska, the founder of the Ethnographic Museum in Łowicz, was the first woman in Poland who was awarded the title of a Honorary Member of the PTK in 1932.

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Łowicz was significanlty damaged during the First World War. After Poland regained its independency, the town gradually redeveloped itself: the bridge named Most Warszawski, made of ferroconcrete, was built; the waterworks were conducted to some parts of the town; Bzura was drained and a power plant was built. The Second World War halted further development. Hitler’s occupation brought severe damages, and thousands of citizens were killed. Łowicz was one of the first towns during the Second World War where the German used the tactic of a so-called “human wall” made of civilians. They formed a human barrier made of citizens to repel the attack of the 16th infantry division. The people were saved from the slaughter because Poles used only bayonets. After the liberation in 1945, a spectacular action of freeing political prisoners, members of the Home Army from the prison of NKVD and the Secret Police was conducted. During the era of Polish People’s Republic, several plants and new residential districts were built. Until 1975, the town served as the capital of the powiat, then it was incorporated into the Skierniewickie Voivodship. The citizen actively participated in the movement of “Solidarność”, and in 1989 first democratic authorities of the town were elected. Since 1999 the town again became the capital of powiat łowicki. The history of the town is commemorated by numerous monuments and collections in the museum in Łowicz.

One of the greatest battles of the September Campaign, the battle on Bzura, took place near Łowicz in September 1939. Between 9 and 22 of September Poles fought fiercely with the overwhelming German divisions. Polish troops were defeated by the aggressor.

During the interwar period, 24 to 33% of citizens were Jews. First Orthodox Jews gained the right for permanent residence in 1797. In 1829 they started to rent a wooden building to use it as a synagogue. In the 1850s, a wooden house of prayer was erected on the Zduńska street, and by the Browarna street the seat of the community, a mikvah, a butchery, and a chader, were situated. In the end of the 19th century, at Zduńska 53 (where a commercial pavilion is located today) Tenement house on Zduńska 42 a synagogue was erected. It was used until September 1939. In the night from 10 to 11 November 1939 it was torched, and the ruins were demolished. A ghetto was established in the town, and in 1941 the Jews held there, were sent to the ghetto in Warsaw. The history of Jews in Łowicz is commemorated in the hall of memory, created in the museum.

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Ruled by dukes and kings – a walk through nine centuries in the history of Ziemia Łowicka and Łowicz

20th century

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

When walking through Łowicz, it is impossible to miss its unique triangular plaza, which was effectively revitalised in the recent years. You can take a rest there after hours of visiting, which you should start from the heart of the town – the Old Market.

The Old Market

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The square In the heart of the Old Market through several centuries had commercial functions – it was here where weekly fairs and famous yearly country fairs took place, as well as colourful processions of Corpus Christi. Its housing consists of a majestic, two-floored town hall with a clock tower, which every day chants the urban chimes.

The Town Hall

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The first gothic town hall at the Old Market was consumed by the great fire of Łowicz in 1525. The second one, a massive onefloored building, was demolished in the middle of 1820s. The third one that stands today, and it is one of the most interesting objects of the classicistic architecture in Poland. It was built in 1828 and designed

by Bonifacy Witkowski. In subsequent centuries it was rebuilt several times. You should dedicate some time to memorials built into the elevations; they commemorate significant moments in the history of Łowicz.

To celebrate the 180 th anniversary of the creation of the Łowicz’s town hall, its view was commemorated on a coin of 2 Polish Zloty from the Historic Cities and Towns in Poland series.

The room named Sala Radziecka in the Town Hall is decorated with 1918’s paintings by Józef Lamparski, which show 36 crests of previous voivodships and the lands of the Kingdom of Poland, the crest of the Republic of Poland, Łowicz, Tadeusz Kościuszko, Casimir the Great, Jan Łaski, and Stanisław Staszic.

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Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Nicholas is one of the oldest churches in the region.

The first wooden parochial church was erected here circa 1100. Later it was replaced by a gothic temple, and in 1433 it was ranked as a collegiate. Also, a chapter was erected next to it. In the 17th century it was reconstructed in baroque style, according to the design

by Thomas Poncino. The temple acquired the form of a church with three aisles and a prolonged presbyterium. The cathedral is the place of worship of relics belonging to Saint Victoria, Saint Wojceich and the painting of Mary, the Mother of God (“The Princess of Łowicz”). It is also famous for its great organs. In the southern cathedral tower there is the Diocese Museum, which presents the most beautiful monuments from the treasury of Łowicz. On June 14th 1999 pope John Paul II, during his visit in Łowicz granted it the title of the Smaller Basilica.

Due to numerous interments of the most important dignitaries of the Church in Poland, the Łowicz’s collegiate is called “The Wawel of Masovia”. It is the place of rest for 12 primates of Poland.

Nobody knows how the stone head appeared on the southern tower of the church. Maybe it shows the place where an earlier pre-Christian temple was located. In the 18th century, during the renovation of the collegiate, it was decided that this decoration would be removed. They say that the one who dared to try was pushed down by the Devil of Łowicz, who lives under the stone head. Since then nobody dared to try to remove the gargoyle again.

Inside the cathedral was an epitaph of the canon Michał Kazimierz Oporowicz with his image. The painter showed the deceased as he looked right and then, on the same sheet, he made an improved version; however, this time the canon looked left. After many years, the layers of paint permeated and thus a face with two pairs of eyes, two noses and wide mouth appeared. They say that after they occupied Łowicz, the Prussians searched the underground of the church only to find a skull of a human with such inhuman features.

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A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Cathedral Basilica

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Monuments at the Old Market

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In the southern part of the cathedral is the monument for the Sons of Ziemia Łowicka, Fighters for the Independency (designer by Adolf Buraczewski). It was unveiled in 1927 and it commemorates the participants of national uprisings, the First World War, the Polish-Bolshevik war in 1920, and the events of May 1926. There is a monument of John Paul II (designed by Stanisław Słonina), which was unveiled in 2000, on the first anniversary of the pope’s visit in Łowicz.

Tenements at the Old Market

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The Napoleonic tenement stands under no. 3.

It was built in the 18 th century. In the beginning of the previous century it was was the Imperial hotel and on 18 December 1806 Napoleon, who travelled to Warsaw, was among the guests. He was there after his victory at Jena and Auerstaedt. He ate a dinner, had military consultations, and in the evening he continued his journey. This visit of Bonaparte is commemorated by a memorial, unveiled in 1981. The building was used for different purposes through the years; today, it is again a restaurant and a hotel. Next to the building, is a small park, established in 1886. It is called the Saxon Garden. The tenement no. 14 was erected in 1566 for the Cebrowscy family, whose subsequent generations ran a pharmacy there. Renaissance deambulatories remained in the courtyard to this day. Under the number 17 there is the complex of the Old Municipial Museum (Dawne Muzeum Miejskie), which was opened during the inter-war period. Today there is an touristic information bureau and a hostel.

Did you know...

On the Old Market Square a monument of W. Grabski was unveiled in 1992. Since 2011 it stands inf front of the school of his name.

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The church of Piarists

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The Church under the invocation of the Saint Wojciech and Merciful Mother of God was erected during several decades from 1680.

Drom 1720 to 1730 towers according to the project of Jakub Fontana were built, while from 174 4 to 1747 a baroque façade was added, supposedly designed by the royal architect, Charles Bay. The temple with three aisles has the form of a basilica with a presbyterium directed southwards. The interior is decorated with frescos showing the scenes from the life of Saint Wojciech, and it was believed that they were painted by Michelangelo Palloni.

In the altar in the eastern aisle is a miraculous picture of Mother of God of Szkaplerz, and in the western aisle is the image of the Pelican Madonna (with the crest of the city on her breast), which was brought from the pilgrimage to Częstochowa in 1702. Piarists ran a collegium by the church, and there was a printing house, with a large collection of books, a theatre and a musical choir. The complex collapsed during the attempts of renovation at the beginning of the 19 th century. In the collegiums, during the Province Chapter in 1741, Stanisław Konarski presented the reform of the piarists’ education system, and in 1753 the confirmed “Ordinations” were introduced in Łowicz.

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Did you know…?

The first rector of the Piarists’s collegium, Wojciech Siewierkiewicz, was ranked as a Piarist who “died with the opinion of a saint”.

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Cebrowscy rendered outstanding services to the town not only due their medical activity. The pharmacist, doctor, and author of the first chronicle of the town, entitled “Annales civitatis Loviciae”, Andrzej Kazimierz Cebrowski, was a member of this family. His son, Mikołaj Kazimierz, the mayor of Łowicz, hosted the king John Casimir in his house. complex of old In the western frontage of the Old Market there is a canonries with renaissance and baroque features. The oldest is the canonry built in 1559, which today is the seat of the Cooperative Bank of Ziemia Łowicka. The founders of particular canonries are described on the inscriptive memorials with crests, on facades.

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The watchword of the Piarists (Order of Poor Clerics Regular of the Mother of God of the Pious Schools) is to provide people with a free and common education. The colloquial name for this order derives from the Latin word pius, which means “devout”. Piarists came to Łowicz in 1668 and remained there until 1864 when they were removed as a result of post-uprising restrictions. to 1957 they retook over the church.

The Primate’s Gate

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This gate was built in the middle of the 17 th century, probably by Thomas Poncino. During the First World War it was partly destroyed, and in 1941 it was moved to its current location. In the rear you can see a wooden vicar’s room from 1895. On the left from the gate there is an ancient custody from the 17th century (nowadays a rectory).

In the finial of the Primate’s Gate is a Jastrzębiec crest and, higher, a cartouche with the crest of Pomianie. Its sides are decorated with pilasters with sequined ornaments.

Decanate

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The decanate, which has been reconstructed in the recent years, today is the seat of the bishop of the Diocese of Łowicz created in 1992. It is situated in a courtyard founded in 1687 by the dean of Łowicz, Wojciech Krajewski, which was rebuilt in the second half of the 18 th century. There is an old curia for vicars from about 1730.

The old vicar’s curia in the northern frontage of the Market was erected “horseshoe”. on the plan of a horseshoe, thus it is commonly called a

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B

The museum is located in a baroque building, and its construction was commenced in 1689 according to the desing by Tylman of Gameren. The building was erected for the purposes of the Priests-Missionaries, and was founded in 1700. The chapel of Charles Boromeus is the most valuable part of the complex, and you can admire the permanent exposition of the polish baroque art there, as well as objects of sacral and secular art from the 17 th and 18 th century. On the first floor of the building which was previously a seminary, the collections of the historical division named after Władysław Tarczyński are shown. The second floor is occupied by the ethnographic division of the museum named after Aniela Chmielińska.

In the mini heritage park by the museum are two monumental enclosures, with a rich collection of works of folk art from Łowicz.

The Chapel of St. Charles Boromeus is decorated with the paintings

by Michelangelo Palloni. They are described as “the most beautiful baroque frescos northwards of the Alps”.

The Old Town Baths A In 1902, municipial baths were erected, attracting the interest of the citizens. In 1912 the object, which was modernized by the Hygienic Society, was reopened as a Baths Complex. Today it is a restaurant.

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A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Museum in Łowicz (previously the seminar for priests-missionaries)

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Old Post Riders Building C A classicistic post building, erected in 1828–1829 on the road to Warsaw, is the only postal complex of this class preserved to this day from the period of the Kingdom of Poland. The post building complexes consisted of a post station and two side wings. Once sables were located there (24 horses were kept for the purposes of the post riders), as well as a coach house.

The post office of Łowicz was superior to other post offices in the region. In 1886 an international telegraphic station was opened here, and in 1890 a savings bank was established. On November 2nd 1830 Frideric Chopin stayed overnight in the guest rooms of the post office. The following day he continued his journey to France, leaving his home country forever.

The former Wileński Hotel B The hotel was previously an inn built in 1830 by the brewer Jan Szabłowski.

In 1838, its ownership was acquired by Mr and Mrs Workowski (a monogram F.E.W. 1830, over the window from the north, is a reminder of this fact), and they renamed it “Hotel de Wilno”.

Today it is a commercial and residential building.

Stanisława Winawer (1880-1958), who was widely known as Soava Gallone – the star of the silent movies, director and owner of a film studio in Rome – was the most famous resident of Hotel Wileński.

She played in almost 40 films. According to industry legends, she was responsible for discovering the talents of Marcello Mastroianni and Linda Pini.

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During the 1820s, upon the initiative of the general Stanisław Klicki, in the south-eastern part of the town a romantic complex of buildings was created (designed by Karol Krauze). It consisted of a quadrilateral tower (originally four towers were planned), a small neogothic palace, a porter’s house, and a chapel. In the palace, which today is in private hands, is the Zofia and Roman Artymowski Gallery of Contemporary Art. Lapidary elements from the primate castle were composed into the walls of all the monumental objects of the complex.

Stanisław Klicki (1775-1847) was a participant of the Kościuszko’s uprising, the soldier of the Legions of H. Dąbrowski, and took part in Napoleonic Wars. After the emperor abdicated he returned to the polish lands and joined the army of the Kingdom of Poland.

In 1826 he was given the rank of general. He organised his headquarters in Łowicz. After the defeat of the November Uprising in which he took part, he was sent to Kostrom, from where he returned many years later. He died in Rome.

St Leonard’s Church F It is believed that a church stood here already in the 15th century, although some historians think that it dates back to the 13 th century. The original wooden temple burned in 1635. It was rebuilt circa 1642 in the late renaissance style. The church, which was destroyed in September 1939, was rebuilt in the 1960s. In the past a hospital-asylum was located by the church and in 1742 the St Leonard’s Institute was founded, where poor boys, called “bartoszkowie”, found refuge. Next to the church a first „in the field” cemetary in Poland was created, which means it was a first one located outside city boundaries.

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Did you know…?

Todays St Leonard’s Church is the presbyterium of the original temple whose wooden aisle burned in 1939.

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Gen. Klicki’s romantic architecture ensamble DE

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Mariawicki Church G The Neogothic church under the invocation of the Sacred Sacrament, was designed by Jan Zaze and erected in 1910.

In the modestly equipped interiors, in the main altar (the only one in this church) is the crucified Christ, on the right from the altar a figure of Our Mother of Perpetual Help, and on the antependium of altar is the crest of Łowicz.

Mariavitism was created in 1893. The founder of the assembly was named Feliksa Maria Kozłowska, who was later called by Mariavites “Mateczka” (“Dear Mother”). After they were excluded from the Church by the Pope, they functioned independently. In 1908, there were 250 Mariavites in Łowicz.

The Church and the monastery of Bernardine nuns H The current church and monastery were created between 1648 and 1650 and designed by Thomas Poncino. The baroque interiors of the temple under the invocation of the Sacred Virgin Mary and Saint Elizabeth, and its treasury, hide many valuable objects. These include the early-gothic crucifix from 1280, pietà from the turn of the 19 th century, and a rococo sculpture of the Merciful Mother of God from the 18 th century.

During the deluge, a swedish general, who occupied the city, “visited” Łowicz’s temples and pointed out to his soldiers those things he intended to loot. In the church of Bernardine nuns he was blinded by a light from the picture in the main altar. The terrified general retreated, however, later he contributed a donation to the monastery. Today the main altar is equipped with a copy of the miraculous picture of the Immaculate Conception.

Did you know…?

The Mariavite’s church is the place where two first Mariavite bishops in Poland were ordained.

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This monument is located in the centre of the park which was established in the so-called Glinki – a muddy terrain from where Łowicz’s potters and stove fitters took clay.

The monument was originalny unveiled in 1938. On the stone, brought from the vicinity of Sobota, where Zawisza was born, are his final words.

The Kalinowscy’s Manor J The manor, erected as designed

by Ferdynand Eichorn in the mid19 th century for the Kalinowscy family, stood previously in the middle of a grange. It was surrounded by a park and garden. Today blocks of flats stand in the place of the park, creating a rather unattractive contrast with the historic building. After the 1905 school strikes, secret gatherings took place here. Also during the World War II, secret education was organised here.

Old Prison K It was created by the order of the German authorities in 1916 and it was used also during the years of the Second Republic of Poland. During the Second World War occupants kept political prisoners here, along with criminals. After the Nazis, the prison was overtaken by the NKVD and the Secret Police. Many “enemies of the people” from Home Army and Szare Szeregi were imprisoned here. On March 8th 1945 80 prisoners were spectacularly freed by 11 people. Not a single bullet was fired. Some of those taking part in the action were arrested and imprisoned in Łódź. Three of them were sentenced to death but, upon the Bolesław Bierut’s decree, it was changed to many years in prison. The prison in Łowicz was active until 1946. Today it is a residential building. Two memorials, dedicated to the action of freeing the prisoners and the imprisoned there, remind us of the buildings past.

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A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The monument of Artur Zawisza Czarny I

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

Saint Spirit’s Church L The Gothic church of Saint Spirit, the oldest brick temple in Łowicz, was built in 1404. It was founded by the archbishop Mikołaj Kurowski. In this church there are numerous chapels from the 17 th and 18 th centuries. From the north is a majestic tower with the Nałęcz crest, topped with an onion-shaped cupola.

In 1778 the western façade was added.

The interiors of the temple are mainly from the 18 th and 19 th century. The medieval figure of Mother of God with her Baby from about 1500, as well as the picture of the Mother of God of the Consolation from the 17th century (in the main altar), are especially worth seeing.

The post-Bernardine church and monastery M The church under the invocation of Saint Bartholomew was built in the 1470s and was founded by archbishop Jan Gruszczyński. The original structures of the church and the monastery were wooden, but only before 1494 a brick church with a sacristy, library, and refectory was built. Later deambulatories were added. The original form of the church is best seen from the presbyterium. The oldest part of the monastery buildings is the eastern wing, created in the turn of the 17 th century. The southern and western wings were built in the second half of the 18 th century. The annexed part from the southern side of the church in enclosed with a square cloister garth. Between 1818 and 1823, the monastery was made into barrack, and around 1836 the church was adapted into a Orthodox Church (previously it served also as a temple for evangelics). During the inter-war period the building was used as the State Teachers’ Seminary and a Training School. After the war there was a pedagogical secondary school, later – a Teachers Study Center and a Foreign Languages College.

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This is a late classicistic building which was erected in 1827 upon the initiative of the general Stanisław Klicki for a hospital and a military pharmacy. In 1912–1918 it was a government gymnasium and after the Second World War it was a seat for the Poviat’s National Council until 1975. Then the building was the seat of the Voivodeship’s Association for Agricultural Circles and other agricultural organisations. After the system change, the Regional Labour Office was located here, and since 1999 it is the seat for the Starosta of Łowicz.

Władysław Stanio’s Park and Bratkowice O The beginnings of this park date back to 1936 when Władysław Stanio, a naturalist and a professor of the Teachers Seminary in Łowicz (by the Common School no. 2, erected between 1930 and 1934), initiated the creation of an Interscholar Natural Garden. After the revitalisation, the park gained illumination, new plantings and garden architecture, as well as the memorial with a description of its history. From the western side, behind the park, there is a triangular plaza, most likely a former cattle market.

There is a charming chapel under the invocation of Saint Roch from 1852, founded by the inhabitants of Bratkowice, which used to be a village, now part of the town (since 1375).

The Insurgents’ Monument On March 30th 1863, at the New Market, at the place where this monument is standing, Wincenty Bunszus was executed. He was an insurgent who was captured by Russians during the fights near Budy Bolimowskie in Puszcza Bolimowska. The monument was founded by the people of Łowicz on the 70th anniversary of the uprising in 1933.

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Did you know…?

It Bratkowice the blessed Bolesława Lament, the founder of the Missionary Sisters of the Holy Family, was born.

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

District Office Building N

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The Ruins of the Primate’s Castle P The beginnings of the castle date back to the 11th and 12th century. About 1355 a brick castle was erected and during the next centuries, it served as a seat of primates of the Republic of Poland. It also hosted different kings: Casimir the Great, Sigsimund Augustus, Sigsimund III Vasa, John Casimir, John III Sobieski, as well as nuncios and pope’s legates, and many outstanding artists. This impressive residence of primates consisted of a high and low castle. The high castle was made of two parallel buildings erected on the east–west axis; from the east the churchyard was enclosed by the gate tower, and the whole complex was surrounded by walls. The low castle, to which a high gate castle led from the town, was rebuilt several times, for example from 1573 to 1585, when a renaissance palace was erected. After the Deluge when the castle was severely damaged, the process of a gradual collapse has begun. During the Stanisław Poniatowski’s reign there was a cloth manufacture here. The destruction was completed by the Prussians. The only remnant of the greatness of the castle are the ruins of the high castle. A beltway was built through the ruins of the low castle. Today the ruins are a private property.

Post-dominical church and monastery Q The memento of the Dominicans, who came to Łowicz at the beginning of the 15th century, is the monumental monastery complex, founded by the archbishop Mikołaj Trąba in 1414. After the monastery was looted by the Prussians, in 1812 the Dominicans left the town.

The preserved altars were moved do the temple in Piątek, as well as to the churches of Saint Spirit and the Piarists; the organs were sent to Chruślin. Currently, the complex is the seat of the Secondary Schools Complexes named after the 10 th Regiment of Infantry. In the old monastery is the original plan of some of the rooms and vaultings. There is a monument of Józef Piłsudski near the school, which was unveiled here in 1989.

The iron doors with the date 1561 from the previous dominical complex were moved to the Museum of Łowicz.

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C

Łowicz prides itself with one of only three triangular markets in Europe (the others are in Bonn and Paris) which were kept in their original forms. Through the centuries, it was used as the town market, and the little streets coming from it were full of artisanal stalls and slaughterhouses. During the Second World War the southern frontage of the market was destroyed, and part of the market was incorporated into the ghetto. After the war, the square became the trading place again, and during the 1950s it was remoulded into a town park. Between 2005 and 2006 the New Market was revitalised; this revitalisation was awarded with the prestigious prize of the Society of Polish City and Town Planners.

Tenements at the New Market

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The tenement no. 4 was probably erected in 1661, and later it was rebuilt in the classicistic style. Jan Wegner, the museologist, historian, the Citizen Of Honour of the town of Łowicz, was born and lived here. In the eastern frontage remained interesting tenements from the 17 th century: Under the Providence’s Eye (no. 9), named after the stucco decoration on the finial. Under the Planter (no. 13) with the date of reconstruction (1799). The one that stands out from the others is the tenement no. 34 from the first half of the 17th century; its façade is decorated with a wavy line with pinnacles. The tenement no.

32 “played” in the pre-war film “Paweł i Gaweł” with Eugeniusz Bodo and Adolf Dymsza in the leading roles. The old patrician tenement (no.

42) stands out from the others at the Zduńska street. It was erected in 1637 and was later probably rebuilt by Thomas Poncino. You should take a look at the richly decorated fronton with pilasters, decorative balustrade, and a baroque top.

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Did you know…?

The market still has a fragment of pavement from 1525, as well as the outline of the foundations of the town hall; its tower collapsed in 1648.

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The New Market

A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The former evangelical church T The temple, which beginnings date back to 1838, draws the attention with a unique façade decorated with a six-pillared portico. In the tympanum is a stucco Eye of Providence. Next to the church is a brick belfry from 1866. In 1991 the ruined evangelical church was bought by a painter, Andrzej Biernacki, who set up a great gallery there. On the opposite side, at the Browarna street in the former vicarage from 1856, an Evangelical chapel is located.

The first evangelic in Łowicz was the calvin Stanisław Murmelius, who ran a printing house in Łowicz. Until the fall of the First Republic of Poland, religious dissenters were not permitted to settle in the town.

When the town was included into the Prussian annexation, first 15 evangelics settled in Łowicz. Evangelic colonies were also established in nearby villages.

The former court U In the beginning, here was a brewery of the Zawadzcy family. Later this mansion was owned by the family Reinecke, who were also brewers. In 1906, a school for girls, was ran here by Jadwiga Starzyńska (the mother of the later president of Warsaw, Stefan Starzyński); later it changed into, a 7-class Female Trade School. It was closed after the students took part in a patriotic church service. The next of the owners rented the mansion for the Royal and Polish Disctrict Court, which existed until 1922. Later this mansion was still used by judicature’s institutions, and since 1994 is a privately owned building.

The building of the EOS cinema and theatre S This building was built and designed by Jan Zapolski, the architect of the powiat łowicki. This theatre was opened in 1899 and named after the mythological goddess of dawn, Eos. It was the centre for cultural, social, and political life. People like Henryk Sienkiewcz and Władysław Grabski were guests there. Currently, it is the seat of Łowicz’s Culture Centre and Fenix cinema.

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This monument was unveiled in 2008 and it commemorates Jews, Russians and Poles killed during the Nazi occupation. In 1940, in Kapituła and Małszyce near Łowicz, the Nazis built a labour camp where they imprisoned Jews who were sent for back-breaking work on the engineering of the river Bzura. After the ghetto in Łowicz was liquidated in 1941, their place was taken by Russian captives, and then by Poles who were arrested for illegal slaughter and trade, as well as those captured during roundups. The nearby park is a great place for relaxation; it offers playgrounds, routes for pedestrians and cyclists, an amphitheatre, a kayak base, and a restaurant.

Monumental necropolises The cathedral cemetery, which was created in 1843, has dozens of architecturally interesting tombs from the 19 th and 20 th centuries, and a neogothic chapel. It is the resting place of many people of outstanding merit. There is an evangelic cemetery nearby. Its beginnings date back to 1841. The Jewish cemetery, which is located in the western end of the city, was founded in 1829 by the Jewish community. During the occupation, Germans used the matzevahs from the cemetery to build embankments on the river Bzura. After the war, the gravestones were returned to the former cemetery; currently, there are several hundreds of them.

A small red brick building by the entrance to the cemetery used to be a pre-funeral house.

The old Jewish legend tells the story of a Łowicz’s tailor, Jankiel, who loved snuff so much that even after his death who could not fight his passion. When the funeral conduct was carrying his body to the cemetery, Jankiel sat up saying: “Oh, I would appreciate a pinch of snuff…”.

After a minute he laid down again and the conduct continued. From that moment his wife was was known as „The Dead Jankiel’s Wife”.

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A meeting at a triangular plaza – Great, small and unique architecture

The Three Nations Monument and the park on the common land VW

All the roads lead to the table – Places full of taste and atmosphere. Meals flavoured with tradition

No one will leave a table in Łowicz hungry. Here you will find simple, but delicious and nutritious everyday meals – noodles with different sauces, great dumplings with various fillings, wonderful home bread with a crunchy crust, delicious satiating soups, various sweets, and many more culinary surprises.

Let’s start with bread The cuisine of Łowicz is famous for its wonderful bread and sweet pastries. Bread used to have various functions, but overall it was the basic everyday food. The dough for bread was mainly prepared with the sourdough, or yeast. Whey was added, as well as the soured milk, borscht, or water used for cooking potatoes. During working days socalled sodzioki were eaten – there are rolls from a dough with some salt, baked on a baking sheet. During the poor years, when there was no abundance, the so-called hunger bread, with potatoes or parboiled rye grains, was baked. The traditional ritual wedding cake was called kołacz – this was a big, round yeast cake (up to 7 kg), decorated with flowers, little birds, dolls, trees, all made of dough. Gingerbread with carrot was a very popular dessert, which was a must during all the family ceremonies and festivals. The sweet and aromatic carrot was a perfect replacement for the expensive and not so easy to get honey. The carrot gingerbreads are still very popular.

Recipe for sodzioki Ingredients: • 4 glasses of wheat flour • 2 glasses of soured milk • 2 flat tablespoons of baking soda • 1 egg • A pinch of salt Knead the dough from the flour, salt, yolk, and the soured milk. Form a thick roll and split it into pieces. Spread each of the pieces into a slab about 1 cm thick. Then cut it into stripes, and the stripes should be cut into diamonds. Each of the diamonds should be nicked on top, placed in a roasting pan and let to grow. Apply the whisked egg onto it and bake until the colour is golden.

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Łowicz style The list of traditional products by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development of the Republic of Poland has 112 dished from the Łódzkie Voivodeship. Among them, there are delicacies of Ziemia Łowicka. There are ten of them: plum stew of Łowicz, pickled cucumbers of Łowicz, soured cucumbers of Łowicz, cherry compote of Łowicz, cucumber puree of Łowicz, pickled sorrel of Łowicz, gołąbki from Osiny, beetroot salwith horseradish of Łowicz, juniper berry sausage.

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The traditional method for souring cucumbers used to be putting cucumbers and spices layer by layer. The cucumbers were flavoured not only with horseradish, dill, and garlic, but also with leaves of celery, parsley, leaves of oak tree, blackcurrant, cherry, and horseradish.

Delicacies from Łowicz Sauerkraut with peas had a very important place in the everyday cuisine of Łowicz. It was prepared in a version for lent, and for festival time, when it was embellished with bacon or pork scratchings. After the Second World War, when meat was more common on the farmers tables, gołąbki became popular. You simply needed a small amount of pork added to the mass of semolina, eggs and chopped

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Did you know…?

One of the varieties of plums is named after Łowicz.

All the roads lead to the table – Places full of taste and atmosphere. Meals flavoured with tradition

A simple delicacy of the rustic cuisine was called podpłomyk; these were crumpets from rye flour and water, baked on a plate of the kitchen stove. It was prepared from scraps of the bread dough and eaten just after baking. Today podpłomyki are becoming popular again. They are cheap and easy to prepare (you can prepare them on your own on a thick saucepan). They are perfect with some dairy cream, soured milk or in a sweet version with jam (naturally, preferably those from Łowicz).

All the roads lead to the table – Places full of taste and atmosphere. Meals flavoured with tradition

onion. Then oblong small chops were formed and fried to the golden colour. Another delicacy of Łowicz are pierogi with various filling, with white cheese in a sweet version, served with dairy cream, or pierożki z dutkami (pork or beef lungs).

The black kishka (al so called “czarne) is a specific delicacy, prepared from a roll, bread, pork fat and blood, flavoured with spices like cinnamon. You should also try herrings a la Łowicz, which are really valued by gourmets. The cuisine of Łowicz is famous for great fruit and vegetable preserves. Sauerkraut from Łowicz, soured and pickled cucumbers taste better than enywhere else. Different vegetable purees are used, as soured cucumbers and pickled sorrel, which serve as the base for delicious soups, served for example with millet groats. And as we are discussing soups, you should try some gapi rosołek (a broth which is called a “kapłonek” or “wodzianka” in other voivodships). This rich, thick and satiating soup, which used to be eaten for breakfast, is made of a dried, rye bread, onion with pork scratchings, and vegetables, sometimes with some dairy cream. The Łowicz’s beetroot salad with horseradish with vinegar and sugar is a delicious addition to meat. The secret of its unparalleled taste lies within appropriately selected proportions.

If you are getting to know Ziemia Łowicka’s cuisine, you should remember about szczybka – a delicious gravy made of from dairy cream fried to a golden colour, which is scraped from a saucepan. This gravy is used to embellish noodles, for example żeleźniaki (oblong grey potato noodles). During his culinary visit in Bednary, Karol Okrasa presented this rarity in his programme (the 123 rd episode of a popular TV show “Okrasa łamie przepisy”).

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The Christmas Eve supper was commenced by eating herrings with potatoes and bread. Then sauerkraut with peas or mushrooms was served. It was fried on oil with onions. Oblong noodles, formed in hands and made of dough from wheat or rye flour, were an important dish. They were called kłosy and they served to tell the future abundance – the longer they were, the better crops could be expected. Kłosy were eaten with poppy or compote made from dried fruit. Wealthier families enjoyed red borscht, pierogi with cheese or rice, and in villages (where people had access to a river or a pond), woman prepared fried fish.

Where can I eat it?

The best way to taste some delicacies from Łowicz is to go to various culinary events, fairs, kermesses, festivities, or workshops organised by the Koło Gospodyń Wiejskich. Delicacies they prepare are usually made according to old, home recipes which are passed from one generation to another. Beside the September’s Festival of Good Food “Księżackie Jadło” (organised at the New Market in Łowicz), you can visit the exhibition of dishes of Ziemia Łowicka during the revel in Łowicz at the heritage park in Maurzyce (August), and the Voivodship County Fair “Mixer Regionalny” in Łódź (September). The regional food is served also by numerous agrotourism farms in Łowicz. The delicacies they prepare are also made with ingredients from their own farms, gardens, or apiaries. Regional dishes are also the domain of many restaurants in Łowicz and in the region.

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All the roads lead to the table – Places full of taste and atmosphere. Meals flavoured with tradition

Christmas Eve delicacies

The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

Ziemia łowicka is a separate ethnographic region, and this was influenced by many factors, like the relatively late annexation of Masovia to the Crown and the affranchisement which took place earlier than in other regions. The inhabitants of the Duchy of Łowicz are an ethnographic group called Księżacy, distinguished due to their customs, rituals, attire, art, architecture, arrangement and decoration of interiors, music, songs, and dance.

Hat Felt headwear with a ribbon and flowers

Head-scarf

Bielunka

Woollen (szalinówki), silk (jedwabnice) or linen, decorated with embroidery

A white linen shirt, with a collar and cuffs, with multi-colour embroidery

Decorations Red beads or ambers

Lejbik A hip-long vest, fringed with a thick string

Bielunka

An embroidered white linen shirt, with a collar and cuffs

Belt Woolen with colourful lengthwise stripes

sukmana (kapota) A kind of coat (in a dark colour when worn by wealthier men)

Kiecka (a skirt) Wide skirt (five to six metres) from a thick striped homespun and a bra from black velvet, sewed to the skirt

Spodnie (trousers) From striped wool, tucked into leather boots

Boots Made of leather, with uppers

Boots High boots with laces, on heels

Did you know…?

The greatest collection of regional folk attire in Poland is the pride of the Museum of Łowicz.

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“There is a very old legend among the people, and it says that the striped costume of the pope’s guards in Rome is the prototype for the costume of Łowicz. Archbishops of Gniezno often travelled to Rome (...).

And the news is that one of the archbishops was so impressed with the attire of the pope’s guards, made of a multi-coloured material, that he introduced a similar dress in his residence.”.

Architecture

The spatial layout of the village of Łowicz changed through the centuries. After the affranchisement, old “owalnice”, “ulicówki”, and “wielodrożnice” started to disappear – newly founded villages were built along the paths full of trees, forming long rows, which often had many kilometers. Farmhouses consisted of cottages and other buildings, so-called świronki, where grains, flour, kasha, bread, and small home tools were stored.

In the 19th century, it became popular to paint the outside walls of cottages in an intensive, blue and sapphire colour – on this background white and colourful decorative motives appeared. Cottages were embellished by small home gardens with flowers and herbs, and the woman and their growing daughters took care of them.

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The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

“Almost all Księżanki stand by their attire. This is how they describe them: I, Księżanka, will not give away my attire even for a half of the Kingdom of Poland. They know that they look good in their clothes, that it is how their diligence and wealth is shown”.

A. Chmielińska, Księżacy, 1925 r.

The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

In a Łowicz cottage

The oldest księżacka cottage had one chamber, which was a kitchen, a dining room, a bedroom and a place where guests were received. A closet was an additional room where household tools were kept. It was also the place where people washed and changed their clothes. During summers home life moved to the hallway with a hearth and a stove where bread was baked. In newer, two-chambered cottages there were was also a day room. In the chamber all the tools were kept under the walls, and the centre was free. The main furniture included: a long bench, a table covered with a white tablecloth (it was used as a home altar), beds, a cradle, and a chest for clothes; from the middle of the 19 th century these were coloured with colourful pattens. Walls were decorated with colourful cut-outs and the images of saints which were bought from local artists and at county fairs. They were hanging in rows under the ceiling – their number amounted to 20.

The Łowicz ornaments Famous cut-outs of Łowicz are unique thanks to their unusual richness of colours and motives, including the stylised trees, flowers, birds (especially cocks), as well as humans.

Some scenes show household activities, holidays and rituals.

Cut-outs and collages appeared in Łowicz’s cottages approximately in the middle of the 19 th century, when the

Did you know…?

The Łowicz cut-outs were made with scissors used for sheep shearing.

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The folklore of Łowicz is associated mainly with colourful processions of Corpus Christi, which in the past was often accompanied by different customs, like collecting flowers and plants, which were used to decorate altars.

It was believed that they would protect households from fires an thunders, thus they were put into thatches of the cottages. They were also left in the corners of barns to protect the crops from pests. Delicate hit of a twig on the face was to guarantee health and also, to calm down too frisky kids.

Some of numerous traditions which accompanied the church holidays were: parade of frights on Shrovetide, pouring water on people on Easter Monday, christmas caroling, or the tradition of Herody.

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The customs of Łowicz

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The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

colourful glazed paper became accessible. Among them there were three types: tasiemki (placed on walls between pictures), rectangular kodry (on the beams that supported the ceiling, over the doors to the chamber and on the wall over the bench), and gwiozdy in the shape of a circle (on the ceilings’ beams between the kodry, but also as the finial of tasiemki). The women of ŁowŁowicz spider icz were famous for making beautiful spiders – they were three-dimensional sprays, hang on the ceilings; they were made of various materials: paper, straw, colourful feathers, paper, crewel, colourful beads, blown eggs, or painted cones. The colourful chamber in Łowicz was decorated with paper flowers, which were used to decorate home altars and sacred pictures.

The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

The colourful procession of Księżacy, which attracts thousands of tourists from all around the world every year, is something unique the whole Poland. Its uniqueness was once described in 1933 by the “National Geographic” reporter, Maynard Owen Willliams. In his report, he called Łowicz “color capital of peasant Poland”.

The weddings in Łowicz had a rich setting and symbolism. Almost the whole village took part in them. A traditional wedding lasted for several days, and the main events were: an exchange of gifts between the future spouses, dressing of the bride, oczepiny (ceremony of putting a cap on a bride’s head at a wedding), zdawaniny (when the bride was “given” to the groom), moving to the groom’s house, where the ceremony of oczepisy was repeated. Each of these actions was accompanied by adequate chants, and songs which were improvised.

An invitation to dance

Folk group „Mazowsze” in Łowicz

The vivid, lively oberek (also called obertas – from the Polish “obracanie” – turning around) is the most popular dance from Łowicz. This dance was a must during every wedding reception, and the performance itself was a real staging, where everyone had a particular role.

Other famous dances of Łowicz include: the less energetic kujon and chodzony, as well as various waltzes.

Did you know…?

Folk Group of Song and Dance „Mazowsze” has its Gwiozda at the Aleja Gwiozd.

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Pochwalony, jak się mota?

This i how you greet in a cant from Łowicz. You should reply: A Bóg zapłać, a galancie.

Linguists consider the cant of Łowicz one of the most interesting ones in the whole country, as it has elements of three dialects, the ones of Masovia, Lesser Poland, and Greater Poland. Its most distinctive feature is the so-called “mazurzenie”, which means that the alveolar sounds like Polish “cz”, “sz”, “dż” are pronounced “c”, “s”, and “dz”, respectively; “en” is pronounced as “in”, and “on” as “ón”.

And here is the sample of a real Łowicz’s speech: …Ludziska zacyny sie modlić do Matki Boski i płakać. Mówieły „Pod twojom łobrune…”.

Naraz łysneło się i na niebie stanęła pani w biołny sukni i jasnym płascu, a w ryncy trzymała zapolunom świece, gdzie sie posuneła, zacyno sie przejaśniać i słuńce za chmur wyglundać…

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The colourful land, the singing land – The attire, the local dialect and folk traditions

Łowickie chłopoki jak parowe młyny, Łod jedny do drugi lotajum dziewcyny, Nie siodej, nie godej, nie zalecej mi sie, Jo majuntku ni mom, nie spodobom ci się Fragment of a traditional folk song from the Łowicz’s area

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

From one market to another It is the best choice to start your walk through Łowicz from the 0 Old Market (p. 14). This is the highest part of the town; according to the legend it was here, on a dry island among wide muddy fields, where a little hunting castle was located. It belonged to Duke of Masovia. Today, it is the 1 Cathedral Basilica (p. 15) which is the grandest building on the market. After visiting the interiors and watching the nearby 2 monuments (p. 16), you should take a closer look at the elegant construction of the Market. Other places especially worth seeing are: 3 the tenement of Cebrowscy (p. 16), the mbuilding of the old Municipial Museum 4 (p. 16), the 5 Piarists’ church (p. 17), and the charming 6 complex of the old canonries (p. 17), which are a continuous construction of the western frontage. In the northern frontage we pass the 7 Primate’s Gate (p. 18), the 8 former decanate(p. 18), and the so-called 9 “podkówka” (polish for “horseshoe”) (p. 18). Then there is an impressive classicistic A town hall (p. 18). Near there is a Napoleonic tenement, where once the emperor was hosted. Today it is a hotel and a restaurant. The very interesting B Museum in Łowicz (p. 19), as well as the mini heritage park with two enclosures typical for Łowicz require at least an hour and a half to visit.

Museum in Łowicz, Stary Rynek 5/7, tel. 46/8373928; open everyday from 10 am to 4 pm (except for Mondays). From November until the end of March the buildings in the mini heritage park by the museum can only be admired from the outside; purchase of a ticket is required.

The Old Market and the nearest area are full of nice cafes and restaurants, where you can eat something before you continue your trip.

There is also a touristic information bureau, and a Cepelia where you can buy some souvenirs from Łowicz.

After you visit the museum, go to the Zduńska street which links the Old Market with the triangular C New Market (p. 27). At Zduńska 42 is a majestic tenement of Ponicini. Several houses further, on the other side of the street, near a commercial pavilion, stood the synagogue.

On the neat, recently revitalised New Market, you should notice D the small historic tenements in the northern and eastern frontages (p.

27). There is also a house (no. 4), where Jan Wegner lived, a historian and the curator of the museum in Nieborów, who rendered outstanding services to the town.

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On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

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On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

From the Market to the ruins of the Primate’s Castle The next route leads to numerous monuments, which really deserve the attention, straight to the ruins of the castle – the symbol of the old power of the Duchy of Łowicz. When you leave the Old Market taking the Mostowa street, go to the junction with the Starorzecze street (there used to be a town gate), and then turn right to get to the Tkaczew street, which will lead you to the A Old Town Baths, which now are a restaurant (p. 19). Through the Tkaczew street you will get to the 3 Maja street.

Here is the building of the former B Wileński Hotel (p. 20). On the left there is a path leading to the C Old Post Riders Building (p. 20). If you go straight by the Koński Targ and turn left, you will reach two interesting monuments which are related to general Klicki: the D tower and the E palace (p. 21) where the general used to live. When you go back to the Old Town through the 1 Maja street, you will pass F St Leonard’s Church (p. 21), and then the G Mariawicki Church (p. 22). Other interesting monuments on this route are: Bernardine’s church and monastery (p. 22), the I monument of Artur Zawisza Czarny in a small park (p. 23), and the J Kalinowscy Manor (p. 23). At the Kurkowa street is the K Old Prison (p. 23), which is known due to the heroic action of freeing the political prisoners after the Second World War. Not far away is the L Saint Spirit’s church (p. 24) – the oldest brick temple in Łowicz. Next to the church, in the Łowicz’s Galllery, where the Museum of Buttons collection is presented. Another interesting monument is the M post-Bernardine complex (p. 24). In the opposite side there is the N district office buliding from 1827 (p. 25). If you go towards the ruins, you can have some rest in the O Władysław Stanio’s park (p. 25). If you go to the remains of the P Primate’s residence (p. 26) through the Świętojańska street, you should be aware that this is one of the oldest streets in Łowicz. By this street there used to be a bygone House for Retired Priests from the 18 th century, and between two wings there was the church of Saint John, which was demolished in 1939. If you have finished admiring the ruins of the castle, you should go back near the New Market through the Podrzeczna street. While doing so, don’t forget to take a look at the Q post-Dominican complex which is a school today (p. 26), R a depot for the volunteer fire department, the S building of the EOS cinema and theatre (p. 28), and by the Browarna street – the T Old Evangelic Church with an interesting art gallery (p. 28). Opposite is the building of the U former court (p. 28). The nice way to end your walk will be some relaxing time in the V Town Park – a sport and recreational complex with a playground, routes for pedestrians and cyclists, an amphitheatre, a kayak base and a restaurant. At one of the park squares stands the W Three Nations’ Monument (p. 29).

42

75 km long route allows you to get to know some of the interesting sacred buildings of Ziemia Łowicka, the residences of the “Polish wife of Napoleon”, as well as monuments of the material culture of Księżacy.

The route goes as follows: Łowicz – Kiernozia – Sokołów – Złaków Borowy – Złaków Kościelny – Zduny – Maurzyce – Strugienice – Urzecze – Sobota– Walewice – Bielawy – Chruślin – Łowicz.

The first stop – 0 Kiernozia, previously a town which lost its town rights in the 19th century. It is famous as the place of birth of Maria Walewska (born Łączyńska), Napoleon’s lover. You can have a walk through the monumental park, where the little Maria used to play, or see the outside of the Łączyńscy palace, which was erected in the first half of the 19th century in a classicistic style. A real must see is the church under the invocation of Saint Margaret; it was built in the first half of the 17th century and originally it was a gothic church. There are valuable stone epitaphs, a 18th century’s tomb image of Anna from Zaborowo Piwowa, and the main altar from the beginning o the 19th century. In the lie the remains of, Maria Walewska’s (they were was brought from Paris).

According to one of the local legends, even Władysław Jagiełło hunted in the regional woods. He stayed here on his way to Grunwald. The royal arrow killed a majestic wild boar (at that time called kiernoz).

This is commemorated by the name of the town, its crest, the monument of the wild boar on the Market, as well as the yearly Day of the Boar of Kiernosy. It is organised on July 13th. Another legend tells the story of the visit by Nicholas Copernicus, who lost his goose quill on the market. They say it fell into the well, and when the astronomer looked inside, the reflection of the stars in the water brought him a revealing idea, which was to revolutionize the science.

In 1 Złaków Kościelny stands a neogothic chuch from 1901, where you can find a late-renaissance altar with the picture of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the middle of the 16th century. The visitors may also notice the polychromy by Leonard Stroynowski, whose master was Jan Matejko; in the presbyterium, there are paintings which show the Książacy in their traidtional attire. The nearby cemetery has some interesting tombs of rich farmers of Łowicz. In 2 Zduny you may see the neogothic brick church under the invocation of Saint Jacob. It was built in the late 19th century. To see the Łowicz’s Ethnographic Park in 3 Maurzyce, you should have about two hours. In the heritage park, which was established in the 1980s, two types of

43

Did you know…?

The vicarage from Pszczonów “played” in the film “Chłopi”, where it was the seat of the parson.

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

Churches, palaces, and heritage parks

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

the historic villages were recreated – a “owalnica” with a central square and a church, and a so-called “ulicówka”. Dozens of monumental constructions of the coutryside of Łowicz can be seen there: cottages, barns, cowshed, stoves for baking breads. There is also a haystack, a vicarage, a school, a smithy, a depot, a mill, chapels, a belfry, and the 18th centuries’ wooden church with a log house structure. The richly decorated interiors of the cottages are a special highlight.

In the heritage park recurrent events take place, like Poviat’s Child’s Day, Łowicz’s Revel (the last Sunday of August), Crops of Łowicz, and presentations of the works of folk artists. From May to October there are various workshops of the Łowicz’s crafts (pottery, blacksmithing, wicker plaiting, sculpturing, weaving). The heritage park is open every day, however, the buildings interiors are open only from April to October. From May to the end of September you can also visit the inn.

After the visit in the heritage park, you should see the nearby historic bridge on 4 Słudwia. The gothic and renaissance church from the beginning of the 16th century is a precious monument in 5 Sobota. The presbyterium, which is topped with a star vault, there are tombs of the family of Soboccy, from the 16th century: the castellans of Łęczyca and royal officials of Sigsimund I, and interesting polychromies by Apoloniusz Kędzierski and Władysław Drapiewski. On the cemetery in Sobota stands a 17th century, wooden church with the clearcutting construction, while in the Parkowa street there is a 19th century small neogothic castle. The classicistic palace, built by the royal chamberlain Anastazy Walewski, is the highlight of 6 Walewice. Within the monumental complex there are stables, coach houses and a park. The interiors of the palace are arranged in the style of the times of Maria Walewska. In one of the wings you can admire the so-called Napoleon’s bedroom with a unique wallpaper from the beginning of the 19th century. In Walewice is a stud farm where Anglo-Arab horses are bred. 7 Bielawy (once a town), preserved its medieval city layout. Near the market stands a 15th century church, a wonderful example of the so-called Masovian Gothic. In the belfry next to the temple hangs the oldest bell in the region from 1531. You should stop at 8 Chruślin to visit the gothic and renaissance church from the turn of the 16th century, with many elements of masonry from his era and original polychromies by Zofia Baudouin de Courtenay. On your way back to Łowicz, don’t forget to visit the village of Bocheń, which is connected to the royal doctor and the rector of the Cracovian Academy from the turn of the 16th century – Adam of Bocheń. In 9 Pilaszków you should see the Chamber of History of the Polish Teachers’ Union. The mementos kept from the days of the activity of the union and the education during the Russian annexation in the beginning of the 20th century.

Did you know...?

In 1945 in Walewice NKVD arested members of five aristocratic families - Grabiński, Radziwiłł, Branicki, Krasicki and Zamoyski.

44

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On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

Czarnów

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

Łowicz – Boczki Chełmońskie – Sromów – Kompina – Nieborów – Arkadia – Łowicz A short, 35 km long route, full of highlights which will satisfy both younger and older tourists.

0 Boczki Chełmońskie is the obligatory stop for the lovers of Józef Cheł-

moński’s paintings. He was born here, and this event is commemorated by the obelisk in the park. In the wooden chapel under the invocation of Saint Rock, built in 1761, take your time to watch some interesting sculptures and paintings from the 17th and 18th century as well as two folk paintings on glass. The courtyard, built in 1930, is another interesting monument.

Visiting 1 Sromowo is a real highlight for the youngest tourists. In four pavilions of the unique Folk Museum of the Brzozowscy Family you can admire colourful expositions (many interactive ones) of folk sculptures which are arranged into generic scenes, as the procession around the church, a wedding in Łowicz, and the nativity scenes. The museum also has a big collection of carriages and old machines and agricultural devices. A walk through the beautiful garden which surrounds the museum is an another highlight. 2 Kompina was the scenery of fierce battles in September 1939, fought by the 26th division of infantry of the “Pomorze” army. The cemetery of soldiers who died in this battle is a reminder of those events. In the village, stands a neogothic church from the turn of the 20th century.

The Museum in Sromowo is open all year long; during the holidays, from 12 to 5, and on working days, from 9 to 5; during winters, it is open after prior telephone contact. A visit may take at least 40 minutes, and it takes place in the presence of the owner. The minimal number of persons in a group is 5.

A visit in 3 Nieborów and a walk through the surrounding french style park will take at least 2 hours, as there is a lot to see. In the palace interiors you may admire part of the original equipment of the former residence of the Radziwiłł family (until 1945), as well as a rich collection of paintings, china and old prints. You should watch the exposition in the Majolika’s Manufacture, founded in 1881 by Michał Piotr Radziwiłł. In the garden you will find the oldest sycamores planted in Poland (1770).

The private 4 Museum of Motorisation is the highlight of Nieborów. The museum presents dozens of cars, motorcycles, tractors, planes, as well as antiquities and toys.

Did you know…?

You may discover the areas to the northeast of Łowicz in a different active way - on a kayak. On river Bzura you can travel from Łowicz, through Sochaczew, all the way to Vistula.

46

In 5 Arkadia, near Nieborów, is a romantic park designed by outstanding architects. It is full of secluded nooks, atmospheric constructions, artificial ruins and grottos. Themain highlights are: the Temple of Diana, The Roman Aqueduct, the Margrave’s House, the Home of the High Priest, the Gothic House with the Sybil’s Cave, Stone Arch (called the Greek Arch), the Tomb from the Poplar Island, the Circus.

The Park in Arcadia is open every day from 10 until dawn.

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Did you know…?

Nieborów is the set for many films, including „Akademia Pana Kleksa” and the residence of the Bishop in a Polish series called „Ojciec Mateusz”.

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

You can visit the palace from March to the end of October, the best method to check the opening hours is to make a prior call (tel.: 046 838 56 35). During the season, a café is open near the palace, and next to the to the ticket office a restaurant named Dworek Biała Dama is open all year long. The Museum of Motorisation, open from May to October; information: 046 838 50 68 or 501 945 960.

On the trail of history and adventure – suggestions of touristic routes and trips to the region

The Duke’s Trail This is a 14 km route and it is a perfect opportunity to have a family trip which won’t be tiring. This route is marked with a blue signs and the symbol of a crown, and it leads mainly through country, asphalt roads with a low traffic. It starts at the Łowicz’s Old Market, just in front of the museum (there is a board with the map of trails), then it leaves the town through the 11 Listopada street, through the square named Koński Targ and then, through the 1 Maja street and the gen. Kilickiego street. Then it leads through Zielkowice, Arkadia and Mysłaków, and it ends in Nieborów, in front of the former palace of the Radziwiłł family. There are numerous highlights along the route. When you go down the gen. Klickiego street, on the left you will pass an interesting tower – part of the unfinished fortress complex (p. 21). From the 1 Maja street you turn right into the Pałacowa steet, and at its end stands the old mansion of general Klicki, currently the Gallery of Contemporary Art (p. 21). Behind Zielkowice the path, which leads through the forest, leads to the Łowicz-Nieborów route, where Arkadia is located – a romantic park, perfect to have some rest. After the rest and visiting the most interesting nooks in Arkadia, you go to Mysłaków and to the palace in Nieborów, where you should have some time to see the palace interiors, and to have a walk through the garden; there you can see the elements of the palace’s complex, like the stable, the coach house, two conservatories, and the building of the Manufacture, where you will find some interesting collections of pottery from Nieborów.

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Did you know...?

Southwards of Łowicz runs the Łódź’s Horse Trail. With 2000 km, it is the longest horse route in Europe. You can plan your trip at www.wsiodle.lodzkie.pl.

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