109TM 時裝與生活 (Fashion & Living Magazine) 001 by Evan Yanagi Corporation

時裝&生活 2015年春季第一期免費

利用時裝平衡個人的五行元素能量

時裝

專訪

亞洲小姐

時裝與五行

多倫多賽區冠軍 Sunny Dhaliwal

食物與飲料

化妝潮流

運用五行學說享受健康生活

美甲設計

有助平衡個人五行元素的旅遊目的地

2015年春夏季精選

紫微西經簡介

旅遊與觀光

1 09 T M FASH I O N & LI V I NG

STYLIST

Yanagi Group

董事

黃韋銘柳怡帆

設計師楊振輝趙茜楠

中文排版黃忠揚栗夏

ON THE COVER: Jacket: 109TaylorMade Model: Mindy Perez Photographer: Newton Yee

中文翻譯 Sidney Chu 鄭若君

撰稿

109TM Fashion & Living Magazine is published 4 times a year

Bret Taylor Fandy Shum Jacqueline Liao

Spring/Summer 2015

特別感謝

109tm.com

Charles Bonsignore, Vincent Bonsignore, Charlene Huang, Rui T. Huang, Emily Liu, Shu Qin Liu, Scott Stankey, Russell Taylor, Marianne Ventrone,

GET IN TOUCH info@109tm.com 1.905.709.1109

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紫微西經簡介

時裝與五行

Dress according to nature’s master plan, so that your clothing is reflective of you!

Using the elemental theories of the east, we introduce the concept of dressing to improve your energy levels.

食物與飲料

ARTEMIS: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Live a healthy lifestyle by using the theory of the five elements.

How the renowned designer offered to make Victoria Plum Sykes an unforgettable wedding gown.

HISTORY OF FASHION

Understanding how fashion trends follow the eastern concept of a repetitious cycle.

INTERVIEW WITH EVELYN LIN

Her venture into the world of modeling.

MORE FEATURES!

44 46 50

Makeup Trends for S/S 2015 Nail Designs for S/S 2015 黑玉系列

52 54

Interview with Miss Asia 旅遊與觀光

紫微西經

從西方的觀點和角度認識東方占星術

生命的意義是甚麼

我們的生命有否意義和目的

這些都是我們想要尋求答案的問題

紫微西經以中國古代占星術紫微斗數作為基礎。它的主要組成部分是命盤，那類似將一份道路地圖和氣象預報結合起來，幫助人們瞭解本身需要知道有關自己的一切事物。這些信息源自天空上超過一百顆星宿以及它們在你確切出生時刻所處的位置。因此，紫微西經是一套複雜而詳盡的分析系統，讓大家能夠透過對我們的過去、現在和將來的準確描述，從中看到自己的生命藍圖。

欲知更多，請瀏覽網址 www.evanyanagi.com

zeus sensor 3 Destiny Paths

DIGITAL TOOLS

for the modern Soul Searcher

欲知更多，請瀏覽網址 www.evanyanagi.com

紫微西經簡介紫微西經時裝指南（Zeus Sensor Fashion Guide）教你如何根據大自然整體規劃穿著衣服，令你的衣著能夠充分反映自己。換言之，你每天選擇穿著的衣服均對本身有所幫助，與傳統的穿衣打扮方式截然不同。 109Taylormade 時裝指南（109 TaylorMade Fashion Guide）運用東方傳統的陰陽五行理論，它們同時也是紫微西經的基本概念。紫微西經以中國古代命理學紫微斗數為根本。相傳紫微斗數的推算是由道士呂純陽開創，他利用紫微星及天上超過一百顆星宿測算人生際遇。這些星宿之中，十四顆為主星，各自擁有特性。每個人都與十四主星其中一顆存在關聯，因此對於一個人的

人生而言，某顆主星的影響力或會高於其餘十三顆。紫微斗數中的十四主星分別是紫微、天機、太陽、武曲、天同、廉貞、天府、太陰、貪狼、巨門、天相、天梁、七殺及破軍。當大家使用我們的紫微西經應用軟體時，首先要找出該顆直接影響你人生方向的主星。你的性格、抉擇、方向等特質均可從你的主星反映出來。運用創新的應用軟體，選擇對你有幫助的衣著變得輕而易舉。另外，挑選能夠激勵正能量的合適衣著，同樣簡單便捷。清楚明白適配於十四主星的服裝類型，有助你尋找成功人生的路向。

五行學說

中國哲學認為，除了陰陽理論之外，世上所有事物都是由五種能量元素組成，分別是土、金、水、木、火。五行學說這個概念早在中國四千多年前孕育發展。隨著時間的推移，五行學說對多種藝術帶來影響，又或成為它們的基本依據。該

些藝術範疇包括風水、中國占星術、針灸和傳統中醫學。而食物、物件、行為和情緒也可以歸類為不同的五行能量元素。事實上，五行元素給予我們能夠令情緒、行為和性格的穩定性得以形成的依據。

五行相生

五行相剋（權衡）

在服裝方面，我們可以利用不同屬性的五行顏色及形狀，找出恰當的五行元素，從而促進我們日常生活的正能量。當你留意五行能量的話，便能控制及改變四周的能量。了解五行元素的流動，以及它們之間的相互影響，可以給你力量，助你改變你的未來日子。

怎樣才能令身心更加健康？那是需要平衡自己在某個時間或任何日子裡所擁有的五行元素。按照五行相生，如果你某種五行元素的比例偏低，便應該較多留意該種元素，對其餘元素的關注則可較少。另方面，根據五行相剋(權衡)，如果你某種五行元素的比例很高，那麼，你可以較少留意該種元素，而更多注意其餘元素。

2015年，不可掉以輕心! 2015年的五行能量格局與2014年大不相同。了解四化星的含義以及它們對2015年的影響至為重要。我們運用這些信息，有效地操控及平衡我們的個人五行元素，為本身生活創造和諧。大家可以下載紫微西經（Zeus Sensor）應用軟體，透過探究天盤、地盤和人盤，從而找到自己，達致自我實現，以及獲取可供策劃未來的工具。

圖片由Eva Rinaldi拍攝。 www.flickr.com/photos/evarinaldiphotography。此圖片乃根據CC BY-SA 2.0牌照登記註冊。剪裁自原本圖片。

紫微斗數中的十四主星紫微 [ZEUS] 陰土

天機 [ATHENA] 陰木

太陽 [APOLLO] 陽火

武曲 [ARES] 陰金

天同 [DIONYSUS] 陽水

廉貞 [HERA] 陰火

紫微星是皇帝星，總帶有幾分權威和派頭。具有領導特質，富有名氣，有內涵而尊貴，希望受別人尊敬，一生安逸。

天機星是智慧星，好比一位才智超群的軍師，善於出主意，是輔佐帝王的良臣。性格寬容，有很強的處理事務能力。具有一流的智慧和機智，能舉一反三，是很好的策劃人。

太陽星是中天星，正如一輪艷陽高照，光彩奪目，熱力四射。自由豪爽，待人熱情大方，樂觀，喜歡交朋友，很勤勞，善於經營。能讓所在的工作環境充滿朝氣，利於事業的興旺發達。高高在上很有領導氣質，正如灑下的陽光一樣，對屬下一視同仁，處事非常公正，凡事喜歡以身作則，身體力行。

武曲星是財政星，財務部門在一個團隊中處於非常重要的位置，所以武曲屬於掌握關鍵的人物，而且動靜皆宜。志氣超凡，重視原則，冷靜沉著，個性剛強，致富有方。

天同星是福星，不會讓自己太過勞碌， “同”本身帶有順從的意思，所以天同很樂觀知天命。知足常樂，不與人計較，待人寬容，總是保有孩子的童真；長壽，成就非凡，有主見，看法超然，學習興趣廣泛；一生過得愉快，少有愁事。

廉貞星是權力星，是廉潔公正的好官，視為次桃花星，但重視原則禮儀和秩序公正，有很好的自制。不喜管束，一心二用；心直口快，好辯論，有幽默感和孩子氣，有領導能力和抱負，敢作敢為。圖片由Jerry Ferguson拍攝。 www.flickr.com/photos/fergusonphotography CC BY-SA 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

天府 [HADES] 陽土

太陰 [ARTEMIS] 陰水

貪狼 [APHRODITE] 陽木

巨門 [HERMES] 陰水

天相 [HESTIA] 陽水

天梁 [DEMETER] 陽土

七殺 [HEPHAESTUS] 陽金

破軍 [POSEIDON] 陰水

天府星是財星，是古代的王爺，相比紫微更注重管理民間的事，儘管也愛面子，有排場，卻更務實。有潛在的統御領導能力，能獨當一面，講話有分量和威嚴，具開創性，喜歡身體力行；性情平穩，心地善良，有義氣，交友慎重，喜歡替人排憂解難；賢能，善於理財，不做沒有把握的投資，穩重；不易受人左右，主觀強。

太陰星是陰柔星，代表著女性的氣質，往往能以柔克剛，出奇制勝。性格溫柔細膩，優雅浪漫，喜安靜愛潔淨。命逢太陰是福者，聰慧，福氣，秉性溫和，如配吉星氣度寬宏；重感情，頗為明理，不願與人交流。太陰愛美，重視外表，做事沉穩，理財方面能聚少成多，量入為出，是管理內務的好手。

貪狼星是第一桃花星， “貪”正是不滿現狀，喜歡追求新奇﹑刺激﹑以及更好的精神和物質生活，令人難以看透，玩世不恭，行事直接爽快，敢於創新。

巨門星代表口才，能言善辯，善於處理公共關係，是很好的外交人才；工作勤奮，付出會有相應的回報；有自信，心思縝密；守規矩，重榮譽，顯貴氣；可是多疑慮，凡事要打破砂鍋問到底，不重物質生活，見解獨特。

天相星是宰相，一人之下，萬人之上，所以工作能力很強，給人寬宏大度、有條不紊的印象，覺得可以信任和依靠。天相心地善良富同情心，溫和克己，善於處理人際關係，一生衣食不缺。

天梁星是能挑大樑的棟樑之星，所以自恃甚高，卓爾不群。天梁的性格耿直無私，爲人排憂解難。是一壽星，也是財星、為人聰明正直，做事果斷，有分析能力，注重生活品味。

七殺星是領兵作戰的大將之星，不僅擁有衝鋒陷陣的超強戰鬥力，還有指揮兵士的謀略。七殺英勇大膽，高深莫測。個性固執，敢作敢為，具有反叛性，喜歡突破現狀，不受約束；為人豪爽，有衝勁，有時會過於急躁。

破軍星是獨立作戰的塞外將軍，無拘無束、特立獨行。破軍個人能力強，有魄力，不喜歡受管束，做事不按常理出牌。外表粗獷豪邁，內心有分寸，好新奇熱鬧，勇於探索未知領域。 9

紫微五行屬性：陰土

化科 2015年是紫微星化科，紫微的服裝款式有利於名聲、敬業及奉獻等方面。適合紫微星的服裝選擇包括：斷斷續續線條幼細線條橫向線條曲線形狀低對比度的顏色組合柔和色調

柔軟的質料輕身的質料不含光澤的布料密集的圖案實黃色、實棕色及米白色

天機五行屬性：陰木

化祿 2015年是天機星化祿，天機的服裝款式有利於收入、資源及財富等方面。適合天機星的服裝選擇包括：橫向線條具有弧度的形狀低對比度的顏色組合柔和色調柔軟的質料輕身的質料

不含光澤的布料深色 (藍色和黑色) 白色輕薄透視質料軟身布料飄逸流暢造型

太陰五行屬性：陰水

化忌 2015年是太陰星化忌，太陰的服裝款式整體而言具有挑戰性，只應在特定情況下使用，藉以達致有利效果。適合太陰星的服裝選擇包括：皮草 A字裙打褶衣服斷斷續續的線條低對比度的顏色組合柔和色調柔軟的質料實藍色、黑色

天梁五行屬性：陰水

化權 2015年是天梁星化權，有利於領導力、自由及邁向成功等方面。適合天梁星的服裝選擇包括：直線實線粗線垂直線有角的形狀大面積的形狀厚身和重身的布料黃色及棕色布料格子圖案

ZEUS SENSOR TAR-

DISCOVER THE SECRETS TO YOUR LIFE 6 different playing spreads

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A DECK OF CARDS IN YOUR DEVICE

Discovering the Secrets to your Life has never been easier! Combining Eastern and Western methodologies, the Zeus Sensor Tarot deck accurately answers your lifelong questions about your Relationships, Career, Karma, Health, and more. The Zeus Sensor Tarot deck features 113 cards consisting of the 5 Elements of Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, and Earth. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to get accurate answers to your deepest questions by selecting from the 6 different playing spreads that best suit your type of question. Ask questions based on the eight Life Chambers (Body, Soul, Karma, Health, Career, Relationships, Emotions, and Assets) and receive the answers you seek with the Zeus Sensor Tarot deck.

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理念。這種念理務時尚服購新全的質以及配特搭與性計和個人屬服裝設的統戶傳級的潮客覆頂到顛最入種球融秉承一引入全的概念極量積能 109TM ，手法陽求技陰需科和物代素購用了現五行元客戶的採方同都東不列將性選擇個系迎合了屬一 M 星 T 每 9 主 0 。中。1 客戶的物體驗據購根。的物模式，風格活能量富品質和生最性常及屬特的日，以星的獨衡個人流時尚主平有能所更諧性， (APP)中和經魂西靈紫微能創建僅不服裝，合適的

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2015年春/夏季

時裝與五行

哪些才是適合自己穿著的服裝？如何分辨目前流行的時裝趨勢，如何作出最好的穿衣選擇？在這個新趨勢不斷湧現的社會裡，社交媒體成為收集資訊的平台，讓我們能夠定期接收最新時裝情報和信息。我們每天可從推特(Twitter)、臉書(Facebook)或圖享(Instagram)那裡看到時款圍巾的圖片，以至最新的鞋履款式。我們對於從這些平台獲知嶄新資訊深感自豪。但是，那又衍生資訊過多的問題。那麼，我們應該如何區分新與舊？因應資訊過多的情況，我們設計一套新系統，讓大家認識及了解時裝。我們將東方傳統理論融合西方科技，運用五行(土、金、水、木、火)學說，由自己決定適合自己的東西；應該怎樣穿衣打扮，完全由自己做主。潮流不應該只由知名人士支配，讓自己按照大自然規劃選擇衣服吧。我們推介的穿衣理論結合了東方的五行學說，可以為你帶來幸運的五行能量，從而改善你的個人能量水平。使用八字插座 (Body Source Code Plugin) 應用軟體，便可以精確查找你身體目前需要的和過多的

五行元素。另外，也可以找到你的五行主屬性、哪種五行能量能夠推動你，以及需要滋養藉以提供正能量的五行元素。在以下的時裝環節，我們為你介紹一些可以令你取得有利五行能量的資料。了解自己的個人五行元素十分重要，我們必需經常保持四周事物的平衡。平衡的意思就是和諧，有了這個概念後，我們也需要明白五行元素的複雜性。試想一下，如果你的五行屬性是水，根據五行相生，我們得知金元素能夠滋養水元素。另方面，土元素則會限制水的力量。基於這個概念，擁有過多水元素的人可以利用諸如與土有關的首飾來幫助達致五行平衡。水元素過少的人或可考慮在服飾方面增添白色及藍色要素。當添置衣服時，應該先找出你欠缺的五行元素。你或會對於色彩與情緒 (Color and Emotion) 應用軟體的準確性感到詫異。我們會在這篇文章中介紹陰火、陽土及陰木，以及推介今年春夏季的最新時裝趨勢和潮流。

圖片來源：Aveda Corporation CC BY 2.0. Aveda.com

陰火

屬於這個陰火組別的都是溫柔、高貴的人，你可以將他們想像為一支蠟燭。他們擁有神奇力量，以極大的毅力重燃心中的火焰。在創意方面，他們擁有天賦才能，帶出創新構思。美國色彩權威機構Pantone早前公佈，2015年的年度顏色為酒紅色(Marsala)。酒紅色正好體現五行能量中的火元素。隨著2015年夏季時裝系列展示豐富的深紅色色調，撩人的酒紅色衣著已是今年的最新時裝趨勢。今個季度的時裝款式勢必添上這個流行顏色。對於欠缺火元素的人而言，只要將衣著加入一些酒紅色成份，便可以增強你的服飾配搭。使用我們的色彩與情緒(Color & Emotion)應用軟體，你可以選配適合自己的服飾，讓你能夠透過衣著帶出有利的五行能量。如果發覺自己欠缺火元素，那麼在服飾方面增添一些火元素成份，你的五行能量以至情緒均可獲益。另方面，2015 年夏季的熱門鞋履款式是羅馬角鬥士鞋。該些帶有溫暖火元素調子的鞋履將是今年夏季服飾的最佳資產。華倫天奴(Valentino)品牌在今季時裝秀上展示美麗奪目的皮製羅馬角鬥士涼鞋，散發無比優雅及高貴。欠缺火元素的人或會過份情緒化，又或缺乏動力。解決方法可以十分簡單，只需添置蘊含火元素的時尚羅馬角鬥士鞋履，便將有助紓緩情緒。

陽土

當你想像這組別屬性陽土的人是甚麼模樣時，一座高聳巍峨的山的影像將會浮現在大家腦海中。他們樂於助人、富同情心、性格獨立，以及帶點固執。他們按著具體理想行事，不易轉移目標。春夏季期間，我們看見彩通(Pantone)烤杏仁色在市面出現。這種柔和色調已在今年春夏季時裝秀冒起及備受歡迎。Victoria Beckham、Misha Nonoo 以至Valentino品牌均在春夏季時裝裡推出該種柔和色調。有了這種經典的陽土顏色，平衡你生命中的土元素便將變得簡單輕易。

使用我們的色彩與情緒(Color & Emotion)應用軟體，你可以選配適合自己的服飾，讓你能夠透過衣著帶出有利的五行能量。這款應用軟體可讓使用者協調個人的五行元素，從而享受更充實的生活。如果發覺自己欠缺土元素，那麼在服飾方面增添一些土元素成份，那對你的五行能量及情緒均有益處。缺乏土元素的人或會感到情緒不穩定、優柔寡斷以及情緒化。解決方法也很簡單，只需在服飾方面加入一些火元素便可。根據五行相生，火元素可為土元素的正能量提供燃料。

陰木

要描述屬性陰木類型的人，大家盡可想起柔軟的草兒及植物。他們能言善辯、機智，並且頭腦靈活。他們一如雜草般，具備廣泛結交及聯繫其他人的能力。草兒需要水份才能生長，屬性陰木的人同樣需要得到持續不斷的注意及支持。因此，如果可以常與可靠的和給予支持及鼓勵的朋友聚在一起，便能增強本身信心。

每年冬天過去，搶先在春季長出來的是草，陰木類型的人情況亦大致相同。這個季度，大家已準備就緒，迎接卡其(khakis)的回歸。從Chanel、Marc Jacobs、Ralph Lauren以至Gucci，共識是卡其確實回來了。陰木類型人士不但對於卡其物料感到雀躍，今季時裝款式同時對木元素作出額外的提振。砂洗磨損的外觀在今季發揮龐大影響力，從衣服的橄欖綠色調以至粗糙的層次，令舒適與時尚共融一體。對於欠

缺木元素的人來說，這是一個合適配搭。這些色調將有助紓緩及平衡高漲的情緒。木元素代表和平與穩定、寧靜及溫柔。一個人欠缺木元素，便會感到焦慮、紊亂和注意力不集中。在衣著方面順應這個潮流，便能改善情緒，並且平衡五行能量。如果覺得自己對今季的綠色色調有所憂慮的話，請不用擔心，和服腰帶可以大派用場。配上一條草綠色腰帶，便可為衣著添上一些木元素。採用這個便捷的方法，平衡五行能量便變得輕鬆容易。

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食物與飲料在這期雜誌裡，我們將會分析和討論陽土、陰木及陰火元素與我們應該如何選擇食物的關係。五行理論帶出一套規劃進食以至最終幫助我們達致健康生活方式的新方法。五行元素反映我們身體的不同部位，當五行能量缺乏平衡時，或會引致生病。使用創新的「色彩與情緒」(Color and Emotion) 應用軟體，大家可以查出本身欠缺的或過多的五行能量。屬性陽土的人如果擁有過多土元素的話，將會更易出現消化不良、胃氣脹、食物敏感、飲食失調及胃灼熱等問題。

陽土缺乏土元素的人需要基礎。他們的思緒有時不受控制，情緒與邏輯之間難以分辨清楚，導致思想不穩定。思想過度或會引致焦慮，因而造成胃部不適及食慾欠佳。這種情況下，對於缺乏土元素的人而言，進食一些有助消化的食物至為重要。喝茶愈來愈受歡迎之際，我們在這裡向大家推薦一些喝茶選擇，有助減輕人們因為某種五行元素過多而產生的不良影響。具體而言，這些茶可以紓解因土元素過多引起的消化系統不適問題。

屬性土元素的食物包括：水果:

蔬菜:

香蕉哈蜜瓜葡萄西瓜

玉米馬鈴薯蘑菇高麗菜

圖片來源：jamonation。CC BY 2.0。www.flickr.com/photos/jamonation。剪裁自原來圖片。

薄荷茶 (Peppermint Tea) 喝薄荷茶有助紓緩胃氣脹及肌肉痙攣等徵狀。

印度奶茶 (Chai Tea) 這種傳統的泡茶方式是以紅茶葉為主，再加入香料及牛奶。因此，它對於消化方面的療效較使用單一種成份為大。

陰木缺乏木元素的人較容易焦慮及生氣。經常發怒對肝臟造成的傷害與中毒並無分別。因此，這類型的人應該多做與肌肉有關的健身運動，以及保持精神集中。他們很多時開始了某些工作項目後便失去完成該項工作的動力，意志力也變得薄弱。欠缺木元素的人會出現肌肉疼痛、頭痛及偏頭痛等問題。當木元素不均衡時，身體出現的徵狀包括乾燥、脆弱和變厚的指甲，以及肋骨下面感到疼痛。頭痛及偏頭痛亦將隨之而至。

屬性木元素的食物包括：水果:

蔬菜:

柚子橙鳳梨

蘆筍芹菜菠菜

圖片來源：woodleywonderworks。CC BY 2.0。 www.flickr.com/photos/wwworks。剪裁自原本圖片。

有助抗衡木元素過多造成負面影響的喝茶款式包括：短舌匹菊 (Feverfew，又稱為 Tanacetum Parthenium) 短舌匹菊原產於歐洲及亞洲，數百年來一直用於治理偏頭痛及頭痛。它的主要成份包括小白菊内酯（parthenolide）及 tenetin，兩者都是治理頭痛的天然消炎藥物。

圖片由Dennis Wong拍攝。CC BY 2.0。 https://www.flickr.com/photos/denniswong。剪裁自原本圖片。

薑（Ginger Root，學名：Zingiber officinale) 過去二千年，薑普遍作為煮食的調味料，亦是治理噁心、腹瀉及腸胃不適的天然藥物。在今天，很多對抗噁心的補充物均含有生薑萃取物。

圖片來源：heymrleej。www.flickr.com/photos/heymrleej。此圖片乃根據CC BY-SA 2.0牌照登記註冊。剪裁自原本圖片。

陰火缺乏火元素的人一般較為健忘、不知所措及感到困惑。他們缺乏動力去完成事情。由於未能妥善控制情緒，因此引致心臟及心血管系統受損。擁有過多火元素會導致焦慮及失眠，並且使人變得神經緊張及過於敏感。這會引起肌肉及關節發炎，並令身體缺乏水份，呼吸道發炎，小便時尿道有灼熱感，以及大便乾結等。如果你擁有過多的火元素，那會令你感到欠缺平衡及不穩定。由此引起的身體病患包括：心悸、高血壓、心臟問題，以及口部及舌頭痛楚。

屬性火元素的食物包括：水果:

蔬菜:

杏子李子草莓

生菜甜椒番茄

右方顯示有助抗衡火元素過多造成不良影響的喝茶方式。

圖片由Christian Kadluba拍攝。 https://www.flickr.com/photos/pokpok。此圖片乃根據CC BY-SA 2.0牌照登記註冊。剪裁自原本圖片。

綠茶 (Green Tea) 綠茶含有高濃度的表沒食子兒茶素沒食子酸酯 (EGCG)。這些抗氧化劑有助抵抗膀胱癌、乳癌、肺癌、胃癌及心腫瘤。

白茶 (White Tea) 白茶是在它們幼嫩時採摘的，因此味道較淡。白茶具有對抗心血管疾病及癌症功效，對糖尿病患者也有幫助。它有助改善葡萄糖耐量及降低低密度脂蛋白(LDL)。

圖片來源：t-mizo. CCBY2.0。www.flickr.com/photos/tmizo。剪裁自原本圖片。

圖片由 LD Francis拍攝。

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Image courtesy of book - The Wedding Dress - The 50 designs that changed the course of bridal fashion

ARTEMIS INSPIRED DESIGN: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Every girl dreams of becoming a princess on her wedding day, the day where all her dreams come true. Alexander McQueen would be the fairy god mother in this Cinderella story. The Madame X- styled wedding gown is his vision. When Victoria Plum Sykes also known as the English rose, the princess in this story became engaged, her good friend McQueen offered to design her wedding gown. Thus, beginning the inspiration that would rock the wedding fashion world. This immaculate vision resulted in a fitted dress, spiraling into a 5-foot (1.5m) train.

The Design Process With the long history that the two had with one another that extended over a decade this dress was sure to showcase this “English rose” explicitly. Sykes modeled for McQueen, written about his designs and has donned his pieces time and time again. She requested a

“Vaguely trendy, avant-garde wedding dress,” it was the designer himself who ordered her to think again, telling his friends that on her wedding day she had to look “impeccable, exquisite.” McQueen designed a dress that embodied romantic design with strong and sensual flair. This wedding gown definitely proclaimed his personal mantra of empowering women. After ten fittings done over a six month period, the dress was taken apart and cut countless times. The bride recalled the designer’s creative process in Vogue, telling the magazine,

“At each fitting, I would try the new version on and Alexander would appear with a black marker and draw all over the silk and then take his scissors to it. He could literally cut a dress by eye- I never saw him use a pattern.”

Structure and Shape Madame X’s shape came from the inspiration of John Singer Sargent’s portrait, Madame X. The dress is made up of a mid-length corset that hugged the brides figure, outlining her long statuesque frame. Following the corset, a slim skirt that swirled at the hem leaving a beauty train behind her every step. This beautiful dress is an excellent portrayal of an Artemis inspired wedding gown. The strong structure combined with the flowing train brings light to Artemis’s creativity and passion for the hunt. Artemis’s creative personality shines through in this McQueen design.

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THE HISTORY OF FASHION 1955 - 1985 - 2015

Fashion trends tend to repeat itself - a nostalgia that runs every 30 years or so. It’s a repetitious cycle that follows the eastern school of thought in which a phase or an occurrence in time is destined to repeat itself. So how do we defined this cycle? In a nut shell, it’s a trend that emerges, peaks and falls out of style over a period of time. Of course, there isn’t a specific measurable time period as some trends can sustain longer than others. But there will always be a revival; a reinterpretation and sense of predictability that goes in to the way we dress and present ourselves.

Let us rewind 60 years. The 1950’s was known as the post-war era. The “New Look” by Christian Dior was born and became an unprecedented departure from a time of austerity in which women wore simple and practical clothing. They were used to rationing and never fussed over their appearance when a war had to be won. The 1950’s brought freedom to their desires of wanting pretty clothes again. In 1955, women took on a new shape in fashion. The sheath silhouette became a prominent statement and it’s arrival became a definitive stamp on the average appearance of women. The top outfit of the year was the combination of the sheath dress and bolero jacket. The waistlines were less apparent and more gentle looking as the desired shape of dresses was more straight up-and-down like a column. During this time, small shoulder pads appeared only in women’s jackets and coats. Peplums entered high fashion and also became a staple throughout the 50’s. This style was featured in the “New Look” as a way to accentuate the hips to get the body’s hourglass shape.

Far Left: Advertisement from the mid 50’s. Sheath Dress with Bolero jacket. Middle: Big Accessories from Christian Diors “New Look”. 1955. Right: Peplums in the mid 50’s.

With the gradual slimming of the silhouette, accessories became an essential part of the outfit. Gold Jewelry was a staple and handbags became bigger and more bulky. Women also had a preference for big earrings and bold bracelets as well as chocker necklaces. Hats grew larger with the winter favorite being the dome-shaped hat made of fur. Shoes consisted of ultra thin heels as well as elaborate trimmings with vivid colours. It’s narrow and pointed shape brought a sense of sophistication to the look and would only be covered at the toes, leaving the ankle without any straps.

Power Suit. Elle Magazine, 1985.

Peplums from the mid 1980’s. Vogue Magazine.

As we skip to the 1980’s, for most of us, a massive wave of nostalgia occurs. Fashion in this decade can be seen as being inexplicable or commended for its creativity. Whichever it is, this era was defined by bright, vivid colours and the image of wealth and success. Items such as long flared skirts, wool coats, slim miniskirts, tapered pants, leggings and oversized sweatshirts became popular during this decade. 1985 saw the rise of power dressing for women – a very distinct look that defined this era. These power suits consisted of shoulder pads that bestowed it’s perception of power and status in the workplace that was dominated by men. The padding of fabric accentuated and defined the silhouette and gave the illusion of broader shoulders to the wearer. Colors include quiet and stark tones such as white and black. 36

Big Accessories made its comeback in the mid 80’s. Vogue Magazine.

Spiked heels and pointed shoes – which were made popular in the mid 1950’s – made its way back into women’s fashion in this decade. This also led to a great deal of 50’s inspired clothing during this era. This was apparent in the cocktail dresses and evening wear. These often had a strapless or off-shoulder neckline but with modernized cutting – that being the shoulder padding. Peplums also made a reappearance in the fashion scene as well. Accessories like pearls, bows, gloves and hats were updated to complement the modern style. Fast forward to this year and we now have made the third cycle. The shoulder pads – once a symbol of the 1980’s – made a recent comeback and is here to stay as evident by Monique Lhuillier’s 2015 Fall

Top: Making a comeback - Big accesssories for 2015. Left: Peplums make a return for 2015.

Monique Lhuillier’s 2015 Fall Collection. Padded shoulders make a comeback.

collection. The padding in this dress help emphasize the fluidness of the curves giving the silhouette a nice shapely appearance. The flashback to the 50’s and 80’s is apparent but very subtle. Peplums are making a big comeback for this year. Only now they are much bigger in size, with details such as fringes to inject new life into this trend. Big Earrings have made a comeback as well. From big and bold in the 50’s, to the “loud” Madonna-inspired hoop earrings of the mid 1980’s to now as big, sparkly ear cuffs has made it’s way back to the runway. In Paris for the 2015 Autumn/Winter show, Balmain models were sporting enormous slices of accessory in their ears forecasting a trend that is making headway into the fashion scene.

Pointed heel shoes are back in vogue. Comfortability and easy matching is what makes this wardrobe staple great for all type of occasions. The key to this year is simplicity. Blue Suede shoes are very stylish and comfortable to wear at the office. In the evenings, you can go for coral pumps for a night out on the town or an evening gala. In this brief history, we see how the cycle works. So when you ask yourself: What does fashion have in store for us in the next 10, 15, 30 years, reflect on the eastern concept. The fate of fashion trends lie in the cycle of predictability.

PREPARE TO

the global stage 109 Reflection International is proud to open its first Canadian modelling school. Our objective is to train models to maximize their potential by building on their natural talents and teaching them key skills to excel in the fashion modelling industry.

We are looking for motivated female candidates and you can be one of them. Those who exceptionally excel in this program will be considered for selection to participate in continued training in one of our sister schools in New York and Milan. We will cover your flight and hotel accommodations as you embark on the next step of training. Considerations will also be made to invite you to participate in the annual Miss World Canada pageant, with special sponsorship by 109 Reflection International.

THE PROGRAM OFFERS COURSES • Styling • Catwalk performance • Photographic pose • Make-up • Nutrition • Video acting

CALL FOR AN APPOINTMENT: 1-905.944.0109 www.109reflection .com

INTERVIEW WITH EVELYN LI When you think about a high fashion model, what do you envision? I am sure I speak for most people when I say that a vision of beauty… and legs come to mind. When Evelyn Li walks into a room she brings with it charisma, laughter and but of course, LEGS. Sitting down with her recently, we went over her experiences as a model and her new venture as a cat walk

instructor at 109 Refection International. Consider being a young lanky 14 year old teenager entering high school for the first time towering over all your classmates. You are thrust into a world of pubescent teenagers, brand new doors open to you, and thus a world where you must find where you fit in. “I stuck out like a sore thumb”

is what she had to say about that time period, she realized at an early age that she would always be the odd one out, that her tall lanky-ness would be her defining feature. She decided then and there that she would take the gifts that were given to her and use them to the best of her ability. Evelyn was 16 when she was first approached by multiple agencies and photographers,

she was again thrust into a new world. This time, she took the courage to use her natural talents to succeed, eventually she was accepted into the prestigious Sutherland model search. After excelling in the fashion industry walking in multiple shows alongside Lisa D’Amato, as well as posing for talented photographers such as Dan Lim, she decided to take her career to the next level. Evelyn attended the Fanshawe College for Fashion Merchandising, today she is starting a new journey at 109 Reflection International. Her experience in this industry has led her to a teaching role where she hopes to inspire and encourage those who enjoy modeling as much as she has. Based in Toronto, 109 Reflection is an international-class modeling institution, specialized in training talented models to excel in the international fashion modelling industry. Evelyn is starting a new adventure teaching aspiring models the fundamentals in success, specifically in cat walking. “Attitude, that’s key in this industry, how you face the endeavors you are given, how you choose to be perceived. There are something’s in life you can’t fix, your attitude however is not one of them”. She is excited and slightly nervous about this new venture but she seems to be very excited about using her vast experiences in this field to really help her student’s succeed. “This school will teach girls confidence, helping with their outlook…a positive outlook, my goal, and this schools goals are to accentuate their differences in order for them to shine.

Photographer: Cam Ta MUA: Usha Bhagwandin

When you sit down with Evelyn you will immediately sense that she is a fun out-going person. She is spunky someone who loves to laugh, she is good natured, she is the type of girl that’s everybody’s best friend.

八字插座

全面為你的人生提供方向指引

八字插座讓你對自己的生命方向作出積極選擇。這書結合紫微斗數及陰陽五行理論，助你勾劃出你的生命藍圖。它並且在健康、事業、學業、財富、子女、父母、親友，以至合適的愛情和事業夥伴等方面為你提供全面又廣泛的方向指引。但這書並非為你占卜未來，它讓你得知你的天生才能和特性，以及四周環境出現自然能量的時間。

欲知更多，請瀏覽網址 www.evanyanagi.com

BLUSH-OFF

Y E S . A N O T H E R B E AU T Y B L O G G E R .

G I V I N G YO U A N I N S I D E L O O K INTO LOOKS, TIPS AND TRICKS.

http://www.blush-off.com Photo by Sodanie Chea. www.flickr.com/photos/sodaniechea. CC BY 2.0. Cropped from original.

With the winter months melting away be prepared for the spring/summer make up trends. These amazing new looks will accentuate your features and welcome the warm weather with a bang. Learn to balance your elemental energies with this season’s trends. Bring on the Eyeliner Black liquid liner is back in this season, from clean fine lines with a slight flick as seen in the Oscar de la Renta shows to extremely winged tips at the Prada Spring/Summer runways. If you are lacking in the water element, this easy and beautiful fix can help to balance the elements.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015: Makeup Trends Welcome to the dark side In this year’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway shows we see the emergence of the beautiful sultry dark lips. Backstage at Dolce & Gabbana is the perfect setting to watch this new trend blossom. If you find yourself lacking in this fire element, add this color to your lips. Instead of smearing red all over your lips, start off darker in the center and gradually go lighter as you move out to the corners.

Hot Chocolate in the summer Welcome this season with warm brown tones. Whether backstage at the Gucci Spring/Summer 2015 collection or the Roberto Cavalli’s show, you can see these inviting tones hitting the runway. From Taupe to warm chocolate brown choose to highlight your eyes with these spring colors. Take it a step further and add a touch of bronzer in your spring looks. When you feel like you’re lacking in the earth element, using these great ideas can help to balance your energies inviting positive energy. 44

NAIL DESIGNS

FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2015 金 METAL

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黑玉系列

THE BLACK JADEITE COLLECTION

隆重呈獻Yanagi最新黑玉首飾系列。全部產品均以925純銀手工鑲製而成，款式眾多，適合上班、參加酒會以至出席正式場合佩戴。

全球最優質的黑玉來自危地馬拉(Guatemala)，而這些美麗的首飾系列正是採用危地馬拉黑玉精工鑲製。黑玉擁有強大的五行能量，不僅能夠保護我們的身體，也能抵禦負面的力量。佩戴黑玉亦可抑制憤怒及具有攻擊性的舉動。它是外遊人士極佳的守護石，也是人們感到不安全或恐懼時一道有效的護身符。黑玉與西方星座中的金牛座、金星、水的流動性以及神聖純潔存著關聯，也與東方的風水命理相關。它蘊含的水元素有助體現尚未實現的潛能。水能量既靈活、無定形、但力量強大。它擁有再生的能力，亦是生命周期的重要能量。人們可以利用黑玉來強化休息、靜思或祈禱的地方。水元素傳統上與房屋或房間的北方有關連。它和事業及生命軌跡聯繫一起，隨著生命的開展，能夠確保五行能量達致平衡。黑玉是絕佳的家居守護石。可將它們放近壁爐、放置在房屋北方或前門內。黑玉與其他深色的守護石不同的是，它們毋須替換。

INTERVIEW WITH MISS ASIA - TORONTO Sunny Dhaliwal was born in Toronto, Ontario and raised across the GTA. She is an artist, a role model and a leader in her community. She believes that education is power and completed her degree at McGill University in Economics, Religion and Communication Studies. After completing her degree, she decided to pursue her dream of working in the fashion industry. She worked as a freelancer before starting her own business. At the age of 22, she combined her entrepreneurial spirit with her creative skills to develop a fashion PR agency. This learning experience gave her the confidence to challenge her limits, push boundaries and realize that she can achieve anything with dedication and hard work. Sunny is the reigning queen of the Miss Asia Toronto 2014 pageant. She is starting a new chapter in life, entering the Miss Universe Canada 2015 pageant. She has dedicated the next couple months to the intensive training that it will require. 52

What is your definition of beauty? “Beauty is simplicity in action. It is when an individual is living completely in the moment, fully accepting who they are and allowing their talents to flow in that moment” 109Taylormade has sponsored Sunny Dhaliwal for her journey in the year’s Miss Universe pageant. They are making her a custom couture gown, which is sure to stun. Combining natures natural elemental influences on the physical self, and the fashion expertise of this year’s trends this gown will be tailor made to accentuate Sunny’s natural beauty. Her life mantra is to help connect people to the best versions of themselves. She believes that giving and helping others is the key to having a meaningful live. Through leadership, action and an inspiring message, Sunny hopes to make a positive difference in the world.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beauty is simplicity in action. It is when an individual is living completely in the moment, fully accepting who they are and allowing their talents to flow in that momentâ&#x20AC;?

旅遊與觀光

你決定今個夏天的度假行程時，不妨根據五行元素來考慮你的旅遊目的地。可以的話，前往一些有助你平衡個人五行能量的地方。我們將世界各地分類，令大家更易了解它們所能提供的能量。視乎你身處的地方，不同的五行能量或已正在影響你的日常生活。

圖片由Craig Chew-Moulding拍攝。 https://www.flickr.com/photos/craigmoulding 此圖片乃根據CC BY-SA 2.0 牌照登記註冊。剪裁自原本圖片。

屬性陰木的地點：地球上屬性陰木元素的地區位於經度-22.5度與-67.5度之間(格林威治子午線以西)。這個範圍主要是南北美洲東部。熱門旅遊目的地包括：紐芬蘭拉布拉多省 (Newfoundland & Labrador)、愛德華王子島(Prince Edward Island)、波多黎各(Puerto Rico)、巴貝多(Barbados)、委內瑞拉(Venezuela)、巴西(Brazil)及阿根廷(Argentina)。

圖片由Hernán Piñera拍攝。https://www.flickr.com/photos/hernanpc。此圖片乃根據CC BY-SA 2.0 牌照登記註冊。剪裁自原本圖片。

阿根廷布宜諾斯艾利斯 Buenos Aires, Argentina 布宜諾斯艾利斯市是阿根廷的首都，面積為202平方公里(78.3平方英里)，當地人口約有三百萬。該市劃分為48個區。大布宜諾斯艾利斯(Great Buenos Aires)都會區是全球人口最多的十大都市中心之一，總體人口超過一千五百萬。阿根廷單色地圖來源：FreeVectorMaps.com

Palermo Viejo區(The Palermo Viejo district) 這是一個時尚社區，區內有一些由鵝卵石鋪設而成的街道，書店、酒吧及精品店林立；夜遊 Palermo Viejo肯定是件賞心樂事。最就近的市區地鐵站是D線的Palermo地鐵站。聖特爾莫(San Telmo) 每逢星期日，遊客及本地居民都會蜂擁前往聖特爾莫參加每周一次的街頭節及跳蚤市場。你大有機會在跳蚤市場內購得心頭好。最好自備飲料，原因在該處購買飲料花費不少。星期日晚上，更有專為遊客而設的探戈舞表演。探戈舞 (Tango) 探戈舞是阿根廷的國粹。前往阿根廷旅遊，必需接觸一些探戈舞經驗才算是一個完整的旅程。最能感受探戈經驗的地方並非在拉博卡(La Boca)或Calle Florida街頭，而是米隆加(Milonga)。米隆加既是跳探戈舞的場所，也是其中一種探戈舞類型。

圖片來源：Ana_Cotta. CCBY 2.0。https://www.flickr.com/photos/ana_cotta。剪裁自原本圖片。

屬性陰火的地點：地球上屬性陰火元素的地區位於經度-112.5度與157.5度之間 (格林威治子午線以東)。這範圍主要覆蓋東亞地區及澳洲。熱門旅遊目的地包括：台灣、中國、日本、香港、南韓、菲律賓及澳洲。

Photo by Joop. https://www.flickr.com/photos/joopdorresteijn. CC BY 2.0. Cropped from original.

日本大阪 Osaka, Japan 大阪是日本第三大城市，居住在它的大都會地區人口超過一千七百萬。日本的首都是東京，而大阪或可稱為日本的「反首都」(anti-capital)。不管你叫它做甚麼，你總會有很多機會發掘大阪的真正面貌。日本單色地圖 – 來源：FreeVectorMaps.com

大阪城 (Osaka Castle) 大家可以視它為一座城堡形狀的博物館，而不是一座歷史悠久的城堡。大阪城的美麗外觀，令人心醉，尤其當櫻花盛開的季節，無數大阪市民蜂擁前往大阪城公園旅遊玩樂。

圖片來源：alisdair。https://www.flickr.com/photos/alisdair。CC BY-SA 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

圖片由Bong Grit拍攝。https://www.flickr.com/photos/bonguri。CC BY-ND 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

大阪海遊館 (Kaiyukan) 這是全球最大水族館之一，蓄水量高達11,000 噸。館內飼養大量鯊魚(包括一條鯨鯊)、海豚、水獺、海豹以及各類海洋生物。最大一個水槽的蓄水量為5,400噸，展現地球上最大海洋太平洋的景觀，令遊人嘆為觀止。每逢周末，音樂家及街頭表演者在水族館外向遊人提供額外娛樂。

屬性陽土的地點：地球上屬性陽土元素的地方無處不在，整個地球均可代表陽土。因此，你可以在自己居住的地方尋找可觀賞的、可做的東西，以及享受可口美食。全球各地的人也許正在計劃前來你的城市旅遊！既然你已經身在這裡，為何不一起分享他們的度假計劃？

你可以做些甚麼？圖片由Moyan Brenn拍攝。https://www.flickr.com/photos/aigle_dore。CC BY 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

博物館現時社會經濟欠佳，人們往往忽略了參觀博物館這類活動，而更為留意一些花費較低的消閒項目。市場調查公司Harris Interactive研究指出，人們花費在體驗事物上，較花費在物質的擁有方面更為快樂。

公園及戶外休閒活動感到有壓力？投入大自然的懷抱是個很好的選擇。一項研究顯示，一批前往樹林度宿兩個晚上的學生，他們的皮質醇(cortisol)水平明顯較低。該種「壓力荷爾蒙」在另一批留在城市的學生身上則更為顯著。

圖片來源：amira_a。https://www.flickr.com/photos/amira_a。 CC BY 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

欣賞本地的現場音樂欣賞現場音樂對神經系統有直接影響。神經系統負責控制血壓、心跳、腦功能及邊緣系統(亦即控制感覺及情緒的大腦部分)。聆聽音樂能夠讓人與這些大腦部分有更緊密聯繫。圖片由Justin Higuchi拍攝。https://www.flickr.com/photos/jus10h。 CC BY 2.0。剪裁自原本圖片。

WMH109國際教育網絡 (WMH109 International Education Network) 於2013年成立。作為一家專業的出國留學及移民服務諮詢公司，我們將年輕人與全球各地的嶄新知識來源聯繫一起。查詢更多資料，請瀏覽我們的網站 www.wmh109-ien.com

加拿大出國留學移民服務

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Different smells generate very powerful vibrations, affecting the energy around them. Accordingly, each smell has a specific effect on the vibrational energy of a specific organ. By smelling certain aromas, we can retune the vibrational frequency of the internal body, bringing the organs and tissues back into harmony, insuring its proper function.

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