BarberEVO UK & Ireland Issue 19 (January/February 2020) by Evo Enterprises Ltd

JADE ROGERS SHELDON EDWARDS JACK ABSOLON RICHIE THE BARBER

t UK & IRELAND.

R.W. WOLF.

J A N / F E B 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E N I N E T E E N

£ 5 //€ 6

Images// Firat Ayas, R.W. Wolf.

THE FINAL CUT.

R.W.WOLF. KNIGHTSBRIDGE COLLECTION

Hair// Wez Jones, Georgie Albon. Make-up Artist// Amber Kear. Models// Mathew Green, Macie Lovett, Nathen Walker, Tom Whinch. Tools// BaByliss PRO. Photography// Liam Oakes.

THE FINAL CUT.

WEZ JONES. THE HEARTBREAK CLUB COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

LUKA CHITTY + CHRISTABEL LEGRAND. RIDE OR DYE COLLECTION

Hair// Luka Chitty. Color//Christabel Legrand. Make-up// Danny Williams. Models// Kate Evans, Lily Prentice. Paint// Pulp Riot. Photography// Poochi Purtill.

THE FINAL CUT.

REUZEL. SCHOREM COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair// Duncan Bailey, Jason Irwin, Jonah Konijnenburg, Robert-Jan Rietveld, Bart Seelt. Products// Reuzel. Photography// Jelle Mollema.

THE FINAL CUT.

THE WORLD’S FASTEST GROWING MEN’S LINE

01392 365177 @reuzeluk

THE FINAL CUT.

ZACH RAMSEY. DIMENSIONS COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair/Photography// Zach Ramsey.

THE FINAL CUT.

BARBER THEORY. FOOTLOOSE COLLECTION

Hair// Troy Brees, Juan Chacon, Eric Fuller. Photography// John Carmona.

THE FINAL CUT.

MINT BARBERSHOPS. MINT COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair// Ronnie Cooper, Adam Hicks, Daryl Legg, Yasmin Wilcock. Photography// Liam Oakes.

Hair// Tom Green. Products// Apothecary 87. Model// Scott Looker. Photography// Dominic Gregory.

THE FINAL CUT.

TOM GREEN. APOTHECARY 87 COLLECTION

19 COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR David Foster// david@barberevo.com ****

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR Andrew Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com ****

EDITOR Amy Glasgow// amy@barberevo.com ****

ACCOUNTS MANAGER Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com ****

PHOTOGRAPHS Cover Image// Firat Ayas, R.W. Wolf Bartek Basista, Iain Crockart, Christian James, Kevin Luchmun, Liam Oakes, Mark Shirley.

A N D R E W B R E W S T E R // E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F HERE WE ARE, AT THE BEGINNING OF YEAR NUMBER FOUR FOR BARBEREVO, READY TO BRING YOU SIX MORE INCREDIBLE ISSUES OF OUR MAGAZINE. I SUPPOSE I SHOULD START BY SAYING HAPPY NEW YEAR - I RECKON THIS WILL BE OUR BEST ONE YET! We’re well rested after the Christmas break and ready to take 2020 by storm. We are thrilled to start the year announcing that we will be the exclusive media partner for Barber Connect 2020. Events like Barber Connect are so important for this industry, bringing together the biggest and best names for two days of education, inspiration and networking. It’s where we get to put faces to names and talk with the people who bring this industry to life and we are so excited to be returning as media partner. Look out for us to have a big presence at this year’s event, with an even bigger and better after party! If that wasn’t enough, we are busy behind the scenes launching a brand new magazine in North America, focusing on the salon world. We can’t wait to see SalonEVO come to life and for us to continue to bring you the best content across all of our publications. Stay tuned…

B E S H A R P. B E C O N N E C T E D . BarberEVO

WWW.BARBEREVO.COM

COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright SalonEvo Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

Evo Enterprises Ltd, Suite F3, 1 Glenburn Road, East Kilbride, G74 5BA, United Kingdom

100

44 80 JOHNNY BABA Co-founder, Barber Barber UK

84 DAN DAVIES

A M Y G L A S G O W// E D I T O R

General Manager, Pall Mall Barbers

WELCOME TO THE FIRST ISSUE OF BARBEREVO IN 2020! AFTER A REFRESHING CHRISTMAS BREAK, COMING BACK WITH FRESH EYES I’M EVEN MORE PLEASED WE ARE KICKING OFF THE NEW YEAR WITH SUCH A FANTASTIC ISSUE – EVEN IF I DO SAY SO MYSELF! For me, the most important thing about any issue of BarberEVO is, obviously, the content, and I feel that this time around we have covered a wealth of topics that really highlight what is going on in the industry right now. Being a new year, we have kicked things off by looking at the latest trends in men’s hair, with the likes of Daniel Rymer, Gemma Willock-Smith, Jay Roberts, Justin Carr, Sheldon Edwards and Tom Baxter all giving their two cents about what they think will be the next big thing in barbering. If you have been following BarberEVO from the beginning, you will know that we have been lucky to have some fantastic industry leaders contribute to our magazine, like Dan Wild, Tracey Walker and Tony Haresign. We can’t thank them all for their contribution over the past three years and don’t worry – you haven’t seen the last of them!

We are, however, welcoming some new faces to the pages of BarberEVO. I’m thrilled to announce that Dan Davies, Luke Dolan and Johnny Baba are all joining the ranks as columnists, along with returning columnist, Vikki Harrison-Smith. In their first issue, we get a range of opinions on a topic that divides the UK barber industry: licensing and regulations. Should barbers be regulated? What licenses should barbers need? Will regulation improve the quality of both education and barbering? We ask Dan Davies, Johnny and Vikki to share their thoughts. Elsewhere, we look at tattoo culture, Luke talks us through the barbershop essentials, and we talk to Jade Rogers about her award-winning career. Of course, I have to mention our stunning cover star, as we take a look inside the newly opened R.W. Wolf Knightsbridge.

72 LUKE DOLAN Founder, Luke’s Barbershop

82 VIKKI HARRISON-SMITH Owner/Lead Educator, SB Barbering Academy

96 56 94 88

EXCLUSIVE MEDIA PARTNER www.barberconnect.co.uk

EUROPE’S LARGEST BARBER EXHIBITION SUNDAY 14TH JUNE – MONDAY 15TH JUNE 2020 TELFORD INTERNATIONAL CENTRE ST QUENTIN GATE, TELFORD TF3 4JH

BARBER CONNECT IS A TWO-DAY TRADE EVENT DEDICATED TO BARBERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. NETWORK WITH OVER 5000 BARBERS LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS OFFERS AND DISCOUNTS NETWORK WITH SUPPLIERS LIVE BARBERING COMPETITIONS FREE EDUCATIONAL SEMINARS FREE PARKING

BOOK FREE TICKETS WWW.BARBERCONNECT.CO.UK OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER

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NEWS DESK

BARBER PRO TEAMS UP WITH CANCER CHARITY.

SLICKS BARBERSHOP COMPLETES 24-HOUR HAIRCUT MARATHON. Two barbers staged a 24-hour haircut marathon in Rutherglen in November as a show of support for a teenage customer suffering from cancer. Jordan Rae and fellow barber David Murray set a town record by giving gents’ haircuts all day and all night at Slicks Barbershop on Duke’s Road in Rutherglen, Glasgow. The special event was organised to raise money for Beatson Cancer Charity after they learned that regular customer Jack Flexney, 17, was diagnosed. The barbers welcomed clients to the shop throughout the 24 hours, asking for donations to Beatson instead of payment. The 24-hour marathon began at 9am on Monday November 18, finishing at

9am the following morning, with David and Jordan working tirelessly throughout. “We found during the day fine but when we got about 12 hours in we started to feel a bit tired,” says Jordan. “Plenty of Red Bull and coffee helped us through it. We had to make it difficult for ourselves – if it was easy, everyone would do it and we wouldn’t have raised as much money.” As well as taking donations instead of payment for cuts, Jordan and David ran a raffle, with amazing gifts donated from local businesses. The final amount raised was an incredible £4,260.61 – all of it donated to Beatson cancer charity.

In 2020, BARBER PRO is teaming up with cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better to curate a limited-edition gift set, containing a selection of their awardwinning BARBER PRO sheet masks. Look Good Feel Better run confidence Workshops providing attendees with valuable skills and techniques to better manage the side effects of cancer treatment, using appropriate products to care for their skin and help promote wellbeing during all stages of treatment. The Workshops provide women, men and young adults going through treatment a welcoming and relaxed environment where they can openly discuss their experiences and challenges. The gift set contains a collection of sheet masks for face and eyes that are enriched with powerful ingredients offering antiageing benefits.

NEW BARBERSHOP RECEIVES AUTISM AWARD.

1 x BARBER PRO CBD Oil Mask 1 x BARBER PRO Post Shave Cooling Mask 2 x BARBER PRO Under Eye Mask

Groomsman Barbers has received the Autism Friendly award; the only awarded barbershop in the United Kingdom!

“We know that letting someone into your personal space can be very traumatic for some, let alone with the sensory triggers of clipper sounds or scissors snipping so close,” says Kate.

For every sale of this gift set, BARBER PRO will donate 10% of the RRP (£1.50) to Look Good Feel Better. Their goal is to raise £30,000 for the charity by the end of 2020.

Appointments are bookable, so that the entire shop lighting, music and other aspects can be tailored to each person. “This means that parents and carers aren’t going to worry that a queue of people are going to be watching and waiting,” says Tobias.

The limited-edition box will officially launch in January 2020 and will be supported with a full 360 marketing plan to raise as much awareness and money for the charity.

The barbershop, owned and run by Tobias Wardleworth, was designed with care for the community in mind. Tobias’ wife, Kate, has spent many years teaching in schools that care for those with special educational needs so when Tobias opened his new shop, they incorporated ideas into their design to cater for everyone.

Bookings can be made via the Booksy app or at GroomsmanBarbers.co.uk

BARBEREVO ANNOUNCED AS EXCLUSIVE MEDIA PARTNER OF BARBER CONNECT. BarberEVO is thrilled to announce that it will be the Exclusive Media Partner for Barber Connect 2020, taking place on the 14th and 15th of June at the Telford International Centre. The event brings together the best brands and barbers from across the UK and beyond

for two days of education, inspiration and networking. The BarberEVO team are excited to extend their presence at the show and look forward to putting on another fantastic official after party. We look forward to seeing you there.

The gift set will be available from all leading wholesalers and from www.beautypro.com/trade

SID SOTTUNG LAUNCHES COLLABORATION WITH BARRIE STEPHEN. Leicester entrepreneur Barrie Stephen is expanding his business portfolio in a partnership with internationally renowned barber Sid Sottung. The collaboration between the hairdresser and American-born barbering industry icon will form the men’s grooming destination, ‘Sid Sottung Barber Shop’, and will bring world-class barbering to Leicester. Barrie Stephen said: “Sid Sottung is already an integral part of Barrie Stephen Hair’s professionalism and growth. Over the last four years Sid has trained up all our Barbers Lounge stylists, helping us skill up and provide amazing male grooming. I am so excited to be partnering with such an internationally recognised expert to bring world-class barbering to the heart of Leicester. “We are consolidating and bringing all our BStyled customers into the King Street salon, so that the new Sottung Barber Shop venture can really fly and have space to flourish.” Sid Sottung said: “Both Barrie and I have the same energy and drive to make things happen. Our new concept will combine all of the excellence of men’s barbering, attention to detail styling, traditional wet shaving and beard design with great attitude. Men can come and feel like a man without all the macho vibes – it’ll be comfortable yet creative.” Sottung Barber Shop opened in December with five barbers employed from Leicestershire.

AMERICAN CREW OPENS ENTRIES FOR 2020 ALL-STAR CHALLENGE. American Crew® is now accepting submissions for its 2020 All-Star Challenge, an exciting annual search for the next hair styling star. Top barbers and stylists from around the world are called to create a look that is the ultimate contemporary interpretation and expression of American Crew style.

platform. I am especially proud to announce that 2020 will be a game changer, in that we will have FIVE competitors that will be crowned American Crew All-Stars Challenge 2020 Winners,” said American Crew Founder, David Raccuglia.

From over 40 finalists, the Global Committee will name five top competitors as the All-Star Challenge 2020 Winners. The winners will receive a number of prizes including a $5,000 monetary award and an all-expense paid trip to Los Angeles, CA to participate in an editorial photo shoot alongside American Crew Founder, and renowned photographer, David Raccuglia.

To enter the All-Star Challenge competition, stylists are asked to create a hairstyle that best represents the American Crew man. The look is to be portrayed on their chosen model and showcased through two black and white photographs of their model from chest-level and above. The model should be in front of a blank background, with one photo face-on and the second focusing on the profile. Photographs are required to be accompanied by a brief description of the look and the products that were used to create it. Entries open on January 1st, 2020 and will be accepted through March 1st, 2020. Each country will then submit their national winner to the Global Committee by March 18th, 2020.

“Year after year, I am honoured to be a part of the All-Star Challenge and to be able to give talented stylists and groomers around the world the opportunity to present their skills on a global

For more information on American Crew and the All-Star Challenge, visit www.AmericanCrew.com/ and follow links to All-Star Challenge entry page.

Having transformed throughout the years from a one-country competition to a global event, the All-Star Challenge has provided vast opportunities to over 10,000 stylists worldwide since its inception—and in 2020, the competition continues to evolve.

NEW CUT ON THE BLOCK. GOULD BARBERS

LUCKY SEVENS

NINETEEN

HAVANT

WESTON-SUPER-MARE

GLASGOW

Tesco Extra, Solent Road PO9 1TR

58 Baker Street BS23 3AQ

62 Wilson Street G1 1HD

TOOLED UP.

MVRCK SKIN + BEARD LOTION Designed to control and moisturise all beard styles and lengths, this skin and beard lotion, new for 2020, shapes and tames coarse beard hair, from light stubble to fullgrown and everything in between.

REM VOYAGER BARBER CHAIR The new Voyager Select is available in over 20 different fabric colours, with retro styling and thick, sumptuous upholstery, bringing style and panache to the barbering environment.

£13.95 // paulmitchell.com

From £1,140 +VAT // rem.co.uk

WAHL CORDLESS DETAILER LI

OSMO IKON COLOUR ADDITIVES The OSMO Colour Additives are a collection of multi-use neutralising solutions suitable for use with any lightening formula.

The new Cordless Detailer Li, part of the Wahl 5 Star Series, features close-cutting extra-wide T-Shaped blades that enable sharper outlines and shape-ups. With a weighted stand for secure charging, the Detailer offers 100 minutes of run time from just a 45-minute charge.

£109.99 +VAT// wahl.co.uk

With no compromise on development time, these highly concentrated pigments help deliver the perfect super-clean base for all your colouring treatments.

£7.95 // osmo.uk.com

SCURL ESSENTIAL GROOMING AID 360 POMADE Providing superior hold, this pomade from SCurl enhances the natural waves in short hairstyles and moisturises short, spikey styles. The unique non-greasy formula rinses out easily with warm water and is enriched with shea butter for a soft, natural shine.

£3.99 // barberblades.co.uk

NEOCAPE BLACK PINSTRIPE CAPE

REUZEL GROOMING CREAM

This new black pinstripe gown uses the same heavier Teflon coated material found in the white pinstripe Neocape. The new style was introduced to ensure that shops and salons are able to offer greater personalisation and keep on-trend with a variety of colour options.

Provides a light hold and works well for all hair types, especially finer hair where additional texture or definition is required.

£27.95 // neocape.co.uk

£12.99 // reuzel.co.uk

With moisturising properties, the cream gives hair a fuller, thicker appearance and gives pliable hold.

QUOTE EVO10 FOR 10% OFF AT WWW.BARBERBLADES.CO.UK

*VALID FROM 1ST JAN - 29TH FEB 2020

CLUBMAN RESERVE GENTS GIN AFTER SHAVE LOTION

ANDIS MASTER CORDLESS LITHIUM ION CLIPPER

Clubman Reserve After Shaves put the ‘bar’ in barbershop with masterfully crafted blends of your favourite liquor-inspired aromas to make you feel all right.

Create flawless fades and clean tapers with the new cordless version of the Master®, renowned for its cutting precision.

The Gent’s Gin scent combines Lime and Red Cedar with Fresh Juniper and a Gin accord to finish each shave on a smooth masculine note. Comforting after-shave lotions soothe and exhilarate skin as they help heal nicks.

Featuring a carbon-steel blade that adjusts from size 000 to 1, Andis gave this tool the look and feel of the iconic Master, but with state-of-theart technology.

£199.00 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

£6.50 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

ANDIS SLIMLINE PRO LI TRIMMER SUGAR SKULL DESIGN A balanced, ergonomic trimmer perfect for light-duty touch-ups and trimming around necklines. The sleek, lightweight, cord/cordless design is ideal for greater flexibility.

GAMMA+ ABSOLUTE HITTER CORDLESS TRIMMER

£95.00 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

BABYLISS PRO TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER

The first ever fully modular Absolute Hitter trimmer, with removable drop-top, Universal micro USB charger and Black Diamond Carbon blade. Includes full Black, Rose Gold, and Chrome body kits to create 12 different custom modifications.

A heavy-duty dual foil shaver designed for precision fading and blending. With ultrafine, hypoallergenic titanium foils for a close cut finish and high power cord/ cordless motor to guarantee sustained performance for the ultimate finishing tool.

£100.00 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

GRAHAM HILL HANGAR ROUGH PASTE Creating a matte effect for casual looks, HANGAR Rough Paste is a hair volume paste designed especially for natural styles. Perfect for making fine hair look fuller and lending it some structure, it gives a natural hold and a matte finish for all short cuts.

£72.00 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

£6.50 inc vat// barberblades.co.uk

THE UK’S LARGEST RANGE OF BARBER PRODUCTS FREE NEXT DAY DELIVERY ON ALL UK ORDERS ALL PRICES INCLUDE VAT • TRADE ONLY WWW.BARBERBL ADES.C O.UK

+44(0) 800 644 0234 ADMIN@BARBERBLADES.CO.UK

Images// Firat Ayas, R.W. Wolf.

WITH TWO WELL-ESTABLISHED LONDON LOCATIONS IN MONUMENT AND COCKFOSTERS, IT IS NO SURPRISE THAT THE NEW R.W. WOLF BARBERSHOP IN KNIGHTSBRIDGE IS TAKING THE AREA BY STORM

R.W. Wolf was inspired by its namesake, known only as ‘The Wolf’, who once conquered the entire capital with his barbering services and set out to do it again under a new moniker. “With over 150 years’ haircutting heritage behind us, we proudly stand at the frontier of barbering and continue to push the envelope forward,” says the enigmatic Wolf, who opened the first R.W. Wolf in 2018. Since then, the business and the brand have only grown, conquering North, East and West London. This, according to the team, has been due to the quality of the barbering services on offer at R.W. Wolf, which they claim far surpass their competitors. u

R.W. WOLF.

MANY ARE CALLED BUT VERY FEW ARE CHOSEN. IT TAKES SKILL, COURAGE AND CHARISMA TO BE PART OF THE WOLF’S PACK.” The quintessential class of their salons instantly relaxes the gentlemen who frequent the shops, so they see it as a retreat and go on to tell their friends to do the same. This experience is only enhanced by the high quality of hair and skincare products that R.W. Wolf use and retail in the shop, from Hanz de Fuko to Baxter of California and Doers of London. The concept of the Wolf was born to combine ancient blood with an exciting new brand. From tantalising treatments to superior services, as well as a world-class team of artisan barbers, R.W. Wolf is bringing a refined way of grooming to London. Services across their locations range from classic haircuts, shaving and beard design, to a range of more unusual but popular treatments including threading, waxing and masks. Each shop also offers the acclaimed Tame the Beast service, which is available by appointment only. This full grooming service includes an initial consultation, so the team can better understand the clients’ skin type and desired look. Then, the hair is thoroughly washed before their expert barber begins cutting and styling. Next, they take care of your beard by shaping and shaving it to perfection. The ultimate grooming experience would be incomplete without waxing, threading, skin-tone balancing and a gold collagen face mask. Finally, the finishing touches consist of a nourishing, moisturising face massage and a classic hot towel experience, so you can walk out of your local R.W. Wolf feeling like a new man. The newest shop, located in Knightsbridge, offers the same exquisite experience as the other stores, flying the flag for barbering excellence. It opened its doors for the first time at the exclusive launch party on October 31st, 2019, offering complimentary male grooming services

throughout the day, with bubbles on the door and a DJ making sure they were heard. Real wolves, loud music and exclusive fragrances created a storm on the streets of Knightbridge, on a night that officially marked The Wolf’s territory. Although the shop shares a similar interior design to its predecessors, such as custom Takara Belmont Legacy 95 barber chairs with bespoke vinyl, there are subtle differences in the design, with added touches of opulence to reflect the shop’s iconic neighbours, such as Harrods. Neon lights offer a completely different vibe when darkness approaches, lighting the space in a way that makes you feel as if you have just walked into London’s trendiest new nightclub. The interior of the shop is unique and full of vibrancy and colour, which only adds to the high quality experience on offer here, where the inspiration was The Wolf’s imagination.

“A barbershop is a theatre,” says The Wolf. “It’s where great transformations are performed by men with blades, machines and artistic flair. While this great drama unfolds around the chairs, it’s important that the environment reflects and adds to the experience through colour, art and sound. “Feedback since we opened has been fantastic. You only have to read our reviews to see for yourself that this is a store which is here to stay and here to serve generations of gentlemen for years to come.” Their inspiring interior and scintillating services are further enhanced by the entire team’s dedication to the craft. With over 150 years’ haircutting behind them, barbering is, as they call it, embedded in their blood – it is in their very DNA. Unsurprisingly, becoming part of the team can be difficult, with barbers required to prove their worth to join the pack. u

“Many are called but very few are chosen. It takes skill, courage and charisma to be part of The Wolf’s pack, but our team is constantly expanding to meet demand, and all of our barbers receive a pep talk from The Wolf himself – behind closed doors, of course.” To ensure clients have the full and undivided attention of their highly skilled barber, R.W. Wolf uses the Booksy app. This provides peace of mind to both barber and customer, giving each client a block of dedicated time all to themselves, depending on the service they have chosen. “Booksy stood out from the beginning in terms of their UI/UX and the fact that they had an established platform with customers that were willing to give other barbers a try,” says The Wolf. “I would definitely recommend Booksy, they have always been incredibly supportive, particularly during the opening of the new shop.” So, what does the future hold for The Wolf and his pack? Mysterious as ever, he leaves us with a simple, thought-provoking statement: “Let The Wolf surprise you…” •

THE TRUE ORIGINAL

takarahairdressing.co.uk +44 (0) 20 7515 0333

GT SPORTSMAN

BARBERING ICONS often imitated yet NEVER EQUALLED

+44 (0) 20 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

PREDICTING TRENDS IS BIG BUSINESS. IN AN INDUSTRY LIKE BARBERING, WHERE NEW TRENDS AND STYLES ARE ALWAYS CHANGING AND EVOLVING, WE ASKED SOME OF THE UK’S BEST BARBERS WHAT WE SHOULD EXPECT TO SEE IN 2020.

ViSiON 2020 DANIEL RYMER.

Being a barber is a baptism of fire, but it’s also an on-going, never ending journey. I have trained for many years and have attended refresher courses, taste maker events and brand-led workshops (sometimes begrudgingly). For me, the biggest struggle is leaving my baby, my shop, Daniel Rymer Male Grooming, in Bristol when I go to work as a session stylist at fashion weeks all over the world. In 2019, I worked on shows in Paris, Milan, London and New York for Tommy Hilfiger, Paul Smith, Givenchy, Philip Plein and Adidas y-3.

These sell-out shows have helped me set the scene for the next 12 months – showcasing a grungier feel, using different sea salt and texturizing products that create a long lasting and lived-in style, leaving behind the usual pomade and clay finish. I have also started heavily involving the client more and letting them shape and style the cut – think Harry Styles and Bradley Cooper or even a young Leonardo DiCaprio or Johnny Depp. u

JAY ROBERTS. When I was in Naples, Italy in early September, I created a look that I think is going to be a solid style in 2020 for sure. It combines the classic fade with more length and therefore a bit more texture and flow. I see more and more people trying to move away from the short crop and grow their hair out to try and achieve a longer, free-flowing style. I think people are so fixated on shorter haircuts due to the fact that they are very sharp looking... so I felt this style finds a great medium between something sharp but still allowing a longer, looser length on top! In 2020, what a barber creates shouldn’t be the end product, it’s all about client involvement, giving back control and creating an active partnership between barber and client. Let the client enjoy being part of the process and helping to create the look. In my 10 years of experience, one thing I have learnt is that no barber wants to hear ‘oh, god, what was I thinking’, when a client has scrolled through old photos of years gone by. Because of this, my aim is to create timeless cuts that you can be proud of in 10, 20, even 30 years’ time – a style that never fades or goes out of fashion. Something that I have learnt by working in a salon five days a week while also doing session styling at fashion weeks is that I have been able to understand that most things clients request have been influenced by something they’ve seen on social media – 2019 was dominated by skin fades, hair bleaching and blunt fringes, all of which were heavily promoted on social media platforms.

With the rise of social media and the sharing of usergenerated content and online tutorials, it’s easy to follow the crowd. However, no matter what my team and I do in our salon, when I travel to fashion week, no matter where it is, I’m encouraged to use new products, embrace new techniques and learn how to be an efficient, ecological and technologically minded barber. 2020 will no doubt see a small decline of the skin fade as clients begin to step away from the high and sharp look in search of something a bit softer, which lasts longer. We are moving towards a versatile look that can be worn messy or smart, but also retains the classic cut, keeping the length, while having it styled backwards away from the face and tucked behind the ears. This look is perfect for the office. For the weekends, I predict a more dishevelled, lived-in look, letting the hair move around and have more freedom. This year, my challenge for barbers is to be more unique and step away from skin fades. What can you do to create a style and trend of your own? •

ViSiON GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH.

2020 is upon us and we have been, and still are, living in an era of education. We came through years of scissor cuts that only used scissor over comb in the sides and although it’s a beautiful technique, we are now sectioning our way through our haircuts with awesome results. Our clipper techniques have changed rapidly as well; it is not uncommon for barbers to be able to do technical fades now. Mixing the two entities, we have been witness to something special. Our clients are noticing as well, and some of us have even seen them give up their careers to join ours. I personally feel very lucky to be part of this transition. The French crop, or short back and sides, is a standard cut that clients would ask for a lot when I first started. Now, we’re watching it transition into this beautiful, seamlessly faded crop, which is a very technical cut, using sections and weight distribution in order to get the right balance for this leading look in men’s fashion. I like to style this look with MVRCK by Mitch Grooming Spray for the prep and finish with the Dry Paste. In my opinion, a trend is personal, depending on the way a person wants to be or be seen. For instance, a modern crop is better suited to an urban look. How each client is motivated hugely depends on who or what inspires them. It also depends on the natural texture you are working with. I think there about nine different styles that will always be on trend, they just evolve in time

with education and creativity. They are the French crop, the buzz cut, the slick back, side parts, shoulder length, high top fade, the pompadour, the quiff, and the textured cut with and without a fringe. If you look at our leading platforms, there isn’t one style standing out from the rest. However, the one thing that has become clear is that the length doesn’t matter. The styles that are standing out are all technically strong, which is all about the right education, being creative and taking risks. Finishing any style is just as important as creating it, so knowing the brand you’re working with is key. I don’t think there is anything worse than using a product that destroys a great cut or that doesn’t compliment or enhance it. I mainly use MVRCK by Mitch because they are all natural and I can cocktail them. For me personally, my favourite styles to work with are firstly a textured cut with and without a fringe – I prep this with Grooming Spray and finish with Dry Paste. The second is shoulder length, which I prep again with the Grooming Spray and then finish using the Grooming Cream or Original Pomade, depending on the texture of the hair. At the end of every service, I spray skin tonic on my clients’ neck and face for a refreshing feel so they are ready to face the world with their on-trend new look.

Finishing any style is just as important as creating it, so knowing the brand you’re working with is key. I don’t think there is anything worse than using a product that destroys a great cut or that doesn’t compliment or enhance it. I mainly use MVRCK by Mitch because they are all natural and I can cocktail them.”

NEW MVRCKÂŽ Skin + Beard Lotion shapes and tames coarse beard hair, from light stubble to full grown and everything in between. The rich, hydrating formula moisturizes the face including the skin underneath the beard and other facial hair with a refreshing agave citrus scent.

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HAYDEN CASSIDY. The looks in my Versatility Collection showcase, as the name suggests, the versatility of longer hair. Trends in the last couple years have changed to longer styles, however a lot of clients are unsure of how to wear their hair. With these three looks, they are the most popular trends but it is the same haircut. The first style I’ve diffused the hair forward as a messy, mod-style cut with a textured fringe; we see this most commonly in editorial styles and it has been a huge trend in the 2019 season, which will definitely be seen a lot more in 2020. The second style is loosely blow-dried back using matte clay for a softer, more natural style, with a small bit of volume – again, an extremely popular style in 2019 that will no doubt creep its way into 2020. The last style was influenced by the more old school styles we see on movies such as Once Upon a Time in Hollywood; a style requested by a lot of people who want to be able to wear the hair a little slicker but still

have the option of changing it up from time to time. It’s a classic trend that will always be popular. I 100% believe these styles will carry through to 2020; longer hair is definitely giving the skin fade a run for its money in the shop. I think people want to have more natural, softer edges and the ability to change the way they wear their hair. I think people are starting to appreciate hair a little more now. A couple of years ago, everybody was getting their hair super short and faded tight on the side because it meant they didn’t need to take as much time grooming it. Nowadays, people love products and take more time with their grooming routine – longer hair means more ability to experiment. I don’t believe people should stick to the same style their whole life. Change is always good, and experimenting with their hair means figuring out what works best and what suits them the most.

ViSiON SHELDON EDWARDS.

I see waves having a big impact on men’s styling in 2020, with SCurl due to launch exciting ranges that will cater to a whole new level of men’s styling. ORGINALLY FROM JAMAICA, AVID SCURL USER SHELDON EDWARDS IS NOW A RENOWNED BARBER WITH A CLIENT LIST THAT INCLUDES ELITE ATHLETES AND MEDIA PERSONALITIES. HE SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON WHAT TO EXPECT IN 2020... I see waves having a big impact on men’s styling in 2020, with SCurl due to launch exciting ranges that will cater to a whole new level of men’s styling. Runway looks and influencers make a big impact on trends in shop, with clients often coming in with a photo or image from a magazine or a screenshot from the social media of a high profile person they follow. Pop culture also plays a big part in influencing trends, whether it’s the music someone listens to, the things they see on TV or even the looks they see in their barbershop.

The fade is a cut that will never go out of style – it’s here to stay. People just improve on the different kind of fades that are possible rather than steering away from it. The fade is an art form that will remain around for decades, even as other looks become longer and introduce waves and texture. I have been using SCurl for many years now and I have become solely reliable on SCurl products to give me the right curly or wave looks that I desire in clients. Their after care products, like their gels and pomades are also fantastic to use and easy to apply to help finish your look.

TOM BAXTER. I think as the winter roles out into 2020, we’ll continue to see the icy grey/silver shades but also some subtler caramel tones. In terms of styles, I think slightly longer crops, tapers, more natural looking will become more in demand. I have been receiving more and more requests as the colder months approached. My advice for any hair change would be to offer your clients the best styling products for that particular look: longer hair needs softer, more pliable, lighter weight products and educating your customer on the right products will assist and give them peace of mind to recreate the look at home.

JUSTIN CARR. Amongst afro Caribbean hair, the current trend is to grow the hair long and create your own individual style with it in the form of curls, plaits, twists, finger twists, corn rows or dreads. A trend I think will continue into 2020. My clients like to experiment with their looks with a slightly more edgy style that stands out in the crowd. The majority of these trends are influenced by rappers in music videos and popular culture, something that will continue to influence in 2020 and beyond. There are certain styles that are chosen by a large amount of people but adding your own twist is what brings the difference. I also think cleaner, classic

looks will make a comeback like the one level taper. Amongst European and Asian hair texture again, I feel there’s much more creativity coming through and these design twists will in turn inspire future trends. I think this is already happening but there will be a bigger push towards this for 2020. This will hopefully give more men the confidence to experiment with their look and drive them out of their comfort zone to try new styles and strive for more creative styles to be acceptable in society and the workplace. I feel as an artist that I am constantly creating, you never know what the next trend is going to be.

MYLES LEWIS. Everyone keeps saying how long hair is ‘coming back’, but in my eyes it already is! Over much of 2019 we have been toying with styles, but nothing has stuck firmly like the very popular crop and blunt fringe partnered with a skin fade or taper. My forecast for 2020 in the male hair sector is leaning towards styles from the mid 80s; think Steve Harrington from Stranger Things, big powerful longer hair with a more relaxed stance on styling, working more with a natural growth pattern and lighter finishing products.

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ViSiON HANNAH MCKNIGHT. Newly crowned brand ambassador for Panasonic Professional Grooming and owner of NU:ERA Barbershop, Hannah McKnight gives her thoughts on what to expect in 2020… Trends come and go in the barbering world faster than you can say ‘skin fade’. While some looks will always stand the test of time, it is not surprising that styles change depending on a range of factors and influences, from fashion to popular culture, as Hannah explains. “As we all know, hair trends go hand in hand with fashion trends and I have seen a lot of retro clothing brands coming through in recent months,” she says. “My prediction for 2020 hair is a huge 90s

influence! I’m already getting a lot of guys bringing me photos of ‘curtain’ styles, mullets, bowl cuts – those retro indie styles as well as that iconic Kurt Cobain cut – although most of them require a modern twist!” So, if Hannah’s predictions are right, we could see male hair taking a step back, celebrating long forgotten cuts of the 1990s as we move into a new decade. “So many of the shows at Salon International all focused on retro cuts, so I wouldn’t be surprised if these looks begin to drip into the barbershop in 2020,” Hannah continues. We’ll just have to wait and see whether the once-famous mullet makes a come back!

KEVIN LUCHMUN. Through my travels and seeing what’s hot I’ve got to say, around the world the shorter hair styles are fading out and styles are getting slightly longer and softer. That being said, there is still a trend with fades and short back and sides but perhaps just not as aggressive as we’ve seen in previous years I guess it really depends on the type of clientele you have and how much they are willing to push forward or if they are interested in what trends will come into play. With social media and easy access to what’s happening on runway shows and fashion shows, we can see what’s happening in hair and put our own take on it in the barbershop. I think influence-wise, barbers will still look towards other barbers and hairdressers for inspiration and put their own stamp on it. Pretty much everything has been done and we’re now seeing people push boundaries by thinking outside the box. Colours are playing a massive part at the moment, but from what I see, they are mostly being used to showcase skill and doing something different – not everyone is going to want colour. The fade will always be popular though, it’s here to stay. The short back and sides and faded look is now part of a fundamental skill in the barbershop. Again, it will change from high to low to mid, but it all comes down to suitability and what the client wants.

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GROWING UP, JACK ABSOLON HAD ALWAYS HAD TO ADAPT TO HIS SURROUNDINGS, NEVER IMAGINING A CAREER IN BARBERING WOULD BE RIGHT FOR HIM – THEN HE MET JEN WINTERS Jack Absolon spent most of his teenage years playing football for Southend United, even moving to America at one point to pursue his love of the beautiful game. At 22, his contract ended and he was back in England uncertain of what the future might hold, until he met Jen. “She gave me the opportunity to become an apprentice at Phoney Pony so I grabbed it with both hands – excuse the pun,” laughs Jack. “Barbering was never on my radar before, I never thought it was for me but Jen was looking for someone she could get on with and train quickly and she asked if I’d be willing to give it a go. Jen has always been the kind of person who wants to push boundaries and she made me want to try.” For the next few months, Jack threw himself into training, with Jen spending time developing her training techniques to suit his needs. It was a learning process for both parties, figuring out how to hold certain tools, figuring out different approaches to certain techniques, but Jen was both patient and determined to make Jack the best barber he could be. “We were starting completely from scratch, I don’t know if anyone else has ever done this kind of thing before, but I had so much support from Jen and also from customers,” explains Jack. “One customer even built me a strap for my arm that I can put combs and tools in, so it’s like having two hands.” Jack’s skill now he claims is only where it is because of the support Jen gave him, and her belief in him made him determined to succeed. They both knew the opportunity in front of them, which only gave Jack more passion. What, then, has been the biggest challenge he has had to overcome? “It’s psychological. My confidence has gone through the roof now – when you step into a busy shop, they expect a quality cut, so having one less hand is not an excuse,” says Jack. “I had to get my head around that idea, so psychologically, that was probably my biggest challenge. My hand is not an excuse and I had to be just as good as Jen and Jacob. The two of them have been such massive supports to me though, learning from them has been amazing, I don’t think I could have done it without them to be honest.”

JACK Jack now works full time in Phoney Pony barbershop, and just eight months into his career he is showing an immense amount of skill and creativity after just eight months. He has a clear penchant for classic cuts such as pompadours and the styles of the 50s and 60s and he is now beginning to build himself a loyal client base. “The reaction from clients has been really varied. When I first started, people would sit in my chair and you could see them thinking ‘how is this guy going to do this?’ but as the cut went on, you would see them realise that I know what I’m doing,” laughs Jack.

“Now I have people coming into the shop and asking for me – that always makes me so proud. I couldn’t ask for any more than people wanting me to cut their hair, that’s what you want, for people to think you’ve done a good job.” With almost a year of training behind him, Jack has high hopes for what the rest of his career might hold, perhaps even having the opportunity to cut at barbering events, where he can show the industry what you can achieve if you have his passion and determination – and it helps to have a barber like Jen Winters as your support system. “I just want to become the best barber I can be – at the end of the day, I just want to cut hair.”

ABSOLON 63

Hair// Jack Absolon. Photography// Jen Winters.

FROM MOBILE HAIRDRESSER TO BARBER, JADE ROGERS IS ONE OF THE HOTTEST UP-AND-COMING NAMES IN BRITISH BARBERING. WE SIT DOWN WITH HER TO TALK ABOUT HER TRANSITION TO BARBERING AND HER ROLE AS APOTHECARY 87 AMBASSADOR. Jade Rogers was just 18 years old when she first got into the hair industry, training for three years before becoming a mobile hairdresser. “I was looking to add barbering to my skillset,” says Jade. “I had a look around a few local barbershops asking for apprenticeships until I found one.” At just 21 years old, she struggled to find someone willing to take her on for pay reasons, but Jade wasn’t discouraged, knowing she had to start at the bottom of the ladder in order to grow. “Money is never going to be great when learning a new skill, so you have to be willing to put the work and effort in. I was earning very little money and attending my local college once per week completing my barbering course. I was living at home with my parents so I didn’t have many outgoings, which made it the ideal time to be in that position and give it my all,” says Jade. Having experience in hairdressing already gave Jade a definite advantage when it came to completing her barbering course, having already nailed down a number of scissor techniques, hair types and wash skills. Being a barber though has been about more than simply adding a new skill to her list of talents for Jade. “I love being a barber because it has helped me overcome many personal things,” she explains.

“It’s boosted my confidence in life in general and helped me overcome anxiety. Meeting different types of people and hearing about other people’s lives is interesting and the general banter you can have with everyone is great. It’s an amazing, sociable job. I wake up every day and don’t feel like I have to go to ‘work’ because it is something that I enjoy doing.” In May of 2018, Jade decided to step out on her own, opening Jade Rogers Barbering in Deeside. As it is for many barbers, it was a milestone that she had been working towards for a while, although it definitely came about a lot quicker than she was expecting, after a friend tagged her in a post on Facebook about a local shop up for rent nearby. Needless to say, she took the risk and has not looked back since, despite the mad rush to open just two months after she got the keys. “I had a little money saved up, which went into building the décor and I added to it each week while I was still earning. I was cutting hair at home until 5pm and then going to do work in the shop until 10pm each night,” Jade recalls. “I was in the shop until 2am the night before we opened. I had lots of help from family members as well – I will forever be thankful to them for helping me and putting in the effort to get the shop up to the standard it is now.” u

I HAD A LITTLE MONEY SAVED UP, WHICH WENT INTO BUILDING THE DÉCOR AND I ADDED TO IT EACH WEEK WHILE I WAS STILL EARNING. I WAS CUTTING HAIR AT HOME UNTIL 5PM AND THEN GOING TO DO WORK IN THE SHOP UNTIL 10PM EACH NIGHT.” 66

At the shop, Jade and her team welcome clients of all genders, offering modern cuts as well as traditional services such as cut-throat shaving. Always keen to stay ahead of the trends, Jade’s passion for her craft has led her to win awards for her skills through the British Barbering Association (BBA). In 2017, she received the BBA Judges Choice Award – the first competition she had ever entered, beating out a number of other talented barbers. A year later, in 2018, she went on to win her second award: The Public Choice Award. “The BBA wins really boosted my confidence and helped me believe in myself. To anybody wanting to enter a competition, I would tell you not to hold back and to just go for it. You have nothing to lose and it is a great platform to showcase your work and open doors to bigger things.”

APOTHECARY 87 PRODUCTS ARE FANTASTIC TO WORK WITH AND SMELL AMAZING. I’VE BEEN A FAN FOR A LONG TIME SO IT’S AN HONOUR TO BE WORKING WITH THEM. THEY ARE ALWAYS WORKING TO EXPAND THE PRODUCT RANGE AND CREATE NEW, INNOVATIVE OPTIONS FOR BARBERS.” 68

For Jade, those ‘bigger things’ included not only running a successful barbershop, but becoming a brand ambassador for Apothecary 87. Always interested in the role of ambassador, Jade couldn’t think of any brand she would rather work with than one she often used in her own barbershop. “The Apothecary 87 products are fantastic to work with and smell amazing. Having known and used the products already, it’s an honour to be working with them,” says Jade. “They are always working to expand the product range and have a set theme that they follow with every new thing they release. My favourite product is the vanilla and mango beard oil – it works brilliantly and smells lush, honestly, try it!” Something that Jade is keen to pursue as her skills and reputation continue to grow is the world of barber education, an area she has dabbled in a little already in her shop: “I have helped a couple of people progress with their barbering skills, allowing them to shadow me and learn in my shop. I would love to be able to offer more education because there is nothing I love more than to help people grow and to give something back.” As well as education, Jade is keen to expand her business and possibly even use barber education as a way to travel. To be able to combine her love of barbering with travel would be a dream come true; in the meantime though, expect to see her at bigger hair shows and barbering events, helping to represent all the female barbers out there. We see big things in this talented young barber’s future, we can’t wait to see it. •

TO ME, NEOCAPE ARE THE BEST CAPES ON THE MARKET, THEY’RE HIGH QUALITY, EASILY WASHABLE, KEEP THE QUALITY AFTER EVERY WASH AND WITH THE RUBBER NECK BUILT INTO THE GOWN, IT’S GREAT AT STOPPING THE HAIR FROM IRRITATING CLIENTS WITHOUT HAVING TO USE NECK TAPE.”

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Hair// Jade Rogers. Models// Jayden Arrowsmith, Sonny Jones. Products// Apothecary 87. Photography// Dan Collins Photography.

FROM THE LICENCES YOU NEED TO THE BARBERSHOP ESSENTIALS, OUR NEW COLUMNIST LUKE DOLAN TALKS US THROUGH WHAT IT TAKES TO CREATE YOUR OWN BARBERSHOP.

LUKE DOLAN.

BUILDING YOUR BUSINESS FROM THE GROUND UP

So, you’ve been thinking of getting your own shop. You want to move on from where you are and you think the next right move is to get your own premises. Think very, very carefully and pragmatically about this before jumping ship, because running a business compared to being a fully booked, good barber is a completely different animal. Are you prepared to go from being the most admired and looked up to person to the one that will get no credit from now on? Are you prepared for the fact that your fully booked column and your disposable income will completely disappear for a minimum of two years? If the answer is still yes, then let’s begin. Finding premises is the easy part. Thankfully with social media, location isn’t as big a thing as it once was as you can use marketing to become a destination rather than something you’d walk past. Once you’ve found that pretty, quirky and on-budget property, instruct your conveyancer and away you go. You’ll have to pay for the landlord’s solicitor’s costs as well as your own and pay three months minimum rent up front and three months’ deposit. This is negotiable in some situations, but it all depends on your landlord. Trust me, most live up to the stereotype of being nightmares! The process can take 3–6 months to complete, so strap in and go through a roller coaster of credit checks, pointless and useless questions, waiting on councils and solicitors bills that rival a country’s deficit! During this process, it’s time for you to do your due diligence.

• Liability insurance

ONE, THREE AND FIVE-YEAR BUSINESS PLANS ARE WORTHWHILE SO YOU CAN FORECAST WHAT YOUR BUSINESS CAN MAKE. WHEN YOU WORK WITH YOUR ACCOUNTANT, YOU CAN ESTIMATE THE TAX ELEMENT AND ALSO PRE-EMPT VAT.”

Make sure you know, according to your lease, exactly what you are responsible for. Trust me, if you don’t and you have a leak it may come down to you to fix and sort it and these things will be costly. One, three and five-year business plans are worthwhile so you can forecast what your business can make. When you work with your accountant, you can estimate the tax element and also pre-empt VAT. If you want my advice, be VAT registered from day one and build your price list to be +VAT. The reason for this is that once you reach £83k gross turnover, you are eligible to VAT at 20%. So, if you’re making £83,000, you will only get £66,400. That’s basically your own personal yearly dividend gone if you haven’t thought about it first because once you go VAT registered, who will pay it? The customer who is already used to paying one price or the staff who’ll get a 20% decrease in money OR, the most probable, the business owner. This is the hard truth of what you want to undertake.

Economically, we are walking into a recession that could last a good long while with Brexit looming. It won’t last forever, but at first people will be uncertain and uneasy about their futures. Plus politically, small businesses get overlooked massively; things are promised to win our votes but nothing ever happens. Yes, all this impacts your livelihood and you’ll be responsible for the other humans that work for you and their families and futures. Still with me? Now you have to build your marketing strategy and figure out how you are going to infiltrate your area. It might be your local area and you may know a lot of people, but you’ll still need more to grow your business. What’s your budget for marketing? Are you going to use Facebook and Instagram promotions or leaflet drops? Go to local pubs and restaurants and meet and talk to people? u

Check out all the following things: • Rent • Rates • Water • Electricity • PPL/PRS music licence • Business insurance • Company registration

MUSIC IS A HUGE PART OF MOST PEOPLE’S LIVES AND BARBERS ARE NO EXCEPTION. HAVING A QUALITY MUSIC PLAYLIST IN YOUR SHOP CAN MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE TO YOUR CLIENT’S VISIT, SO GETTING A PPL PRS MUSIC LICENSE IS VITAL. Think about your customer experience. What’s the 360 degree view of it? That first step into the store to the last step as they leave must be mapped out. What do they see, what do they smell, what do they do? What do they sit on? What do they hear? Music is a huge part of most people’s lives and barbers are no exception. Having a quality music playlist in your shop can make a big difference to your client’s visit, so getting a PPL PRS music license is vital. Once you’ve got your strategies and licenses in place and your business plans, now it is time to kit your shop out. Takara Belmont are obviously the best chairs to get but the most expensive, however, they do finance packages and do complete design and build packages, so it’s definitely worth exploring. REM chairs are really good, but it all depends on budgets, on the theme and how you want your shop to look and feel. Lighting is extremely important and can be costly. Sure, everyone wants to cut under a string of Edison light bulbs like a warm, dimly lit, coffee-infused, exposed brick wall space, but your fades will look like they’ve been done with a knife and fork, so look at this carefully. Strip lights are the most ugly to look at but the most conducive to our line of work, so finding workable solutions around the best lighting would be a good place to start. Mirrors are another important overlooked staple. Some shops have B&Q Mirrors that look like travelling circus crazy mirrors with a surround that your nan would like and in my opinion, that just wont cut it (pardon the pun) – if you’re on a budget IKEA do have a decent selection. The stations come down to your experience and what you find to be the best working space for you and your theme. Whether it is toolboxes, cabinets or whatever, it’s got to be comfortable and cleanable for both staff member and client. Basically, make the space somewhere you’ll be comfortable and happy for the rest your working career. Believe in your theme, make it like a home from home and remember the Wayne’s World saying: “Build it and they’ll come!” •

usic

Licence PPL PRS: MUSIC CAN BE A TOOL OF YOUR TRADE

CREATE A REFLECTIVE PLAYLIST

When you think of the tools you need to make your barbershop succeed, the first things to spring to mind initially are bound to be your scissors, clippers, grooming products, towels and that all important barber chair.

Your clients come from all walks of life, so your playlist can reflect that. Know your customers, involve your team, learn which style of music heightens that feel-good factor at different times and you could create a barber shop which is as much known for its great atmosphere as it is for its excellent service and products. It’s all about the experience. Music can change that experience from good to outstanding.

Obviously, these things are all pretty essential tools to get the job done, but everyone knows there are a number of other things you can do in order to make your shop stand out and create an entire customer experience, and music is part of that. Music is a tool that can be harnessed in the same way as a pair of clippers. Music can help you set the mood. Maybe you want your clients to feel relaxed with some feelgood music as they sit back and have a shave, or perhaps your customers enjoy hearing the latest live sports chat on a bustling Saturday morning. Playing music and the radio in your studio can encourage conversations and help develop relationships between staff and clients.

It’s not just your customers who benefit from music being played either, your colleagues will too! Music can add a burst of energy to a team who have been on their feet all day. So much so that going back to 1940 the BBC introduced ‘Music While you Work’ radio programmes to boost productivity in factories. Now ask yourself, can you really afford to not play music in your salon?

“Music definitely impacts the salon positively. It just gives it a good vibe,” Paula Fosket, owner of One.a Salon, Caernarfon.

LET’S PUT IT INTO PERSPECTIVE… There are plenty of things that the average barbershop already does to improve the customer experience, whether that’s having newspapers or magazines for them to read or offering a freshly ground coffee or a cold beer while they wait. Most of these services are all second nature and you wouldn’t question the decision to add them to your customer experience, so why would it be any different with music? Playing music in your business could cost you as little as £0.64 per day*, and you will be safe in the knowledge that you are licensed to play original music and radio stations which can improve your brand, make your clients feel welcome and valued, whilst also increasing staff morale. Now, PPL PRS are making it even easier for you to buy that licence.

In the past, businesses needed to buy two separate music licences, one from PPL and one from PRS for Music. These two bodies have listened to their customers and formed a joint venture – PPL PRS Ltd – and created TheMusicLicence. What this means for barbershops is that you can now buy and renew your music licence in one place, with one invoice and one contact. Simple! It really is as easy as buying that daily newspaper or stocking up the in-shop fridge! *Cost example spread across 365 days based on a premises with up to 10 chairs or treatment tables, combined yearly music licence could cost around £233 (excluding VAT).

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CAPES, APRONS & TOWELS A barber’s bread and butter, you won’t get very far without some quality barber capes, aprons or towels. If you decide to include classic straight razor shaves on your service menu, having a fresh supply of towels will be paramount. You might even consider getting a towel heater, meaning you don’t have to manually steam and heat every individual towel before a service. Capes are, obviously, an essential for every barbershop. There are numerous options available for any budget, from simple styles to high quality stylist capes from the likes of Neocape, which incorporates a soft and supple neoprene collar, creating a comfortable seal against the skin, stopping hair and liquids from going down the clients’ neck. Neocape has become the gown of choice for leading, high quality barbers and hairdressers around the world, and with limited edition prints and the opportunity to personalise your gowns, they are a solid option for barbers. Aprons might not seem like an ‘essential’, but they can be handy for storing tools and give your team a distinct look. Aprons allow clients to identify staff immediately and provides a professional (and practical) appearance.

BOOKING SYSTEMS Automated booking systems can provide comfort to shop owners and barbers alike, allowing them to focus on cutting hair, not arranging their schedule. Many booking systems today also offer a lot more than just appointments, such as Squire, which offers a range of other features, from stock management to payment options. The same goes for Booksy, as brand ambassador and avid user Luke Dolan will tell you. Having an app like Booksy where clients can easily manage their own appointments is a blessing for everyone involved and can help shop owners avoid spending hours on admin.

FURNITURE Like Luke said, when it comes to kitting out your barbershop, there are a lot of factors to consider. What style or look are you going for? What is your budget? Most importantly, is the furniture practical and comfortable for both barber and client? From barber stations to barber chairs, waiting areas to wash stations, make sure you choose the option right for you and your circumstances. There are, of course, a number of furniture retailers who specifically cater to barbers, such as REM or Albert Ewan Design, who will be able to

identify and meet your needs. Do your research and you’re sure to find the perfect fit. Celebrating 60 years in the UK last year year, Takara Belmont are, without doubt, a market leader in quality barber chairs. Over the course of the last six decades, Takara Belmont has created a number of furniture and equipment icons, like the Apollo 2 barber chair. A Takara Belmont chair is an investment, in your shop and in your client’s experience, and will add style and comfort to your space.

CLEANING Any good barber knows how important it is to keep their shop and their station clean. You wouldn’t want to sit in a barber chair surrounded by the previous clients’ hair and dirty tools – we guarantee your clients don’t want to either! If you are the shop owner, it’s important, even if you divide up cleaning jobs, to make sure you provide the right cleaning tools and products to get the work done.

Barbicide is, obviously, a goto for many when it comes to sanitising tools. Ensuring items like scissors, razors, even combs, are properly cleaned between clients should be automatic for any barber and ensures that health and safety regulations are complied with. As we all know, climate change and the environment continue to be hot topics, so if you are concerned about using chemicals for cleaning, you could try EcoBarber, which provides environmentally friendly cleaners specifically designed for barbers.

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BLADE MAINTENANCE WITH LEAD EDUCATOR

SAM CAMPAGNA Sam Campagna provides some tips you need to follow every day to get the best out of your tools. The benefit to looking after your clippers is that they will last longer, saving you money in the long term and ensuring you get the best cutting results.

OILING I oil my blades at the start of every day, and on busy days, I’ll oil them 2-3 more times when they’re heavily used. At the end of the day, after I’ve cleaned the clippers, I oil the top and side of the blades to allow the oil to properly soak in overnight. Oiling regularly helps to keep the blades at optimum sharpness, so you won’t need to replace your blades so often.

“OILING REGULARLY HELPS TO KEEP THE BLADES AT OPTIMUM SHARPNESS, SO YOU WON’T NEED TO REPLACE YOUR BLADES SO OFTEN.”

HYGIENE One of the most important parts of blade maintenance that often gets overlooked is maintaining high hygiene levels. Using the Hygiene Spray on your blades before each use guarantees the hygiene level to all of your clients. It’s a quick and easy way to keep your blades clean and helps to resist bacteria and viruses.

“USING THE HYGIENE SPRAY ON YOUR BLADES BEFORE EACH USE GUARANTEES THE HYGIENE LEVEL TO ALL OF YOUR CLIENTS.”

BLADE ICE On busy days, I use Blade Ice during each haircut to maintain the clipper performance as it keeps the blade cool, making it more comfortable for you and your client. It also lubricates and protects against corrosion by blasting away hair and debris in the blades.

Photography// Christian James.

IT’S A NEW YEAR, SO IT’S TIME FOR NEW VOICES TO BE HEARD. IN HIS FIRST COLUMN FOR BARBEREVO, THE INFAMOUS JOHNNY BABA TALKS US THROUGH THE INS AND OUTS OF BARBER LICENSING AND REGULATION.

Photography// Bartek Basista.

LICENSING & REGULATION

JOHNNY BABA. LICENSING There is an old saying... paper never refused ink. Let’s cut to the chase, most if not all barber certificate qualifications aren’t worth the paper that they are printed on. Barbering has seen unprecedented growth over the last five or six years and I’ve been lucky enough to have been on the first big wave of it but sadly, as the trend gets increasingly stronger, the universal standard is getting ever poorer and it’s probably one of the most under regulated industries in the world. Anyone, and I mean anyone, can open a shop tomorrow and trade as a barber with little or no training. The scary thing is that they will get trade, and what’s even scarier is that they will get repeat trade. Why is that? How is that? Whose fault is it? It’s OURS. Substandard barbers and barbershops exist only because we haven’t actually done anything to try and stop it. There are more schools, academies, NVQs, ABC’s, 123’s and organisations than ever before, so why is it getting harder and harder to find great or even good barbers?

REGULATION In my opinion, there needs to be a UNIVERSAL standard, not just in the way in which we cut hair, it goes much deeper than that. What we charge, how we look, how we behave, how we clean and present our shops – all of these aspects are of the utmost importance. What we seem to be forgetting is that we are in fact a service driven industry, and the simple fact is that the barbershop is and always has been much more than a haircut.

In his 2008 book Outliers, Malcolm Gladwell wrote that 10,000 hours is the magic number of greatness. That’s years of deliberate practice. So, why are we letting people cut hair and shave faces after nine, ten, or twelve weeks? Oh that’s right, they have an NVQ, the three letters that I have grown to despise in my time as a business owner in the UK. You may think that 10,000 hours is a bit extreme but let’s say for arguments sake that it takes six to twelve months to get to a shop standard as a junior barber and a further 12 months to be a fully qualified barber. That’s two years, just two years to give somebody the knowledge and know-how to forge a very successful and, most importantly, profitable future. In order to be a great barber, from the floor to the door MUST be covered because again, in my opinion, you will never run a barbershop properly unless you know how a barbershop runs and again (and this is just MY OPINION) we need to forget about all the fast track bollocks and return to time served apprenticeships. I know there are people out

there who have completed these courses and went on to forge decent careers but those few are the exception and not the rule. As I said, proper regulation and some sort of governing body with the customer in mind, much like what they have in the food industry, would go a long way in trying to repair the damage that this ‘barbering revolution’ has caused! Have you ever wondered why hairdressers charge more than us? Are they better than us? Of course not, but the perception that hairdressers are more skilled than us exists because the majority have spent much longer learning and honing their craft. Let me tell you something, hair is hair and technique is technique, the only difference between a man and a woman’s haircut is the shape and where the weight sits. We all use the same techniques, but that’s a whole other rant for another day, which brings me again back to how we can grow collectively – realistic expectations from new apprentices regardless of their age, honest assessment of their level by the teacher or assessor and that big dirty word: REGULATION. u

HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED WHY HAIRDRESSERS CHARGE MORE THAN US? ARE THEY BETTER THAN US? OF COURSE NOT, BUT THE PERCEPTION THAT HAIRDRESSERS ARE MORE SKILLED THAN US EXISTS BECAUSE THE MAJORITY HAVE SPENT MUCH LONGER LEARNING AND HONING THEIR CRAFT.” 81

REGULATION IS THE KEY TO CONSISTENCY Consistency is the key to high standards, and high standards are the key to a profitable price point. How many times has somebody walked out of your shop muttering ‘I can get it done for a tenner down the road’? That’s not his fault, it’s ours. It’s our fault collectively for not UNIVERSALLY behaving in a manner in which our services are seen as valuable. I believe these days our target market is value-conscious rather than priceconscious, so if they believe they are not getting value for money, why shouldn’t they expect it to be £10? We always comment when we see a bad haircut that you get what you pay for, but how many of our clients always get value for the price they pay? It all boils down to the same old thing: STANDARDS and CONSISTENCY. Believe me, I have seven shops and consistency has always been my biggest challenge, not just the haircuts but the service and atmosphere in all of my stores. So, what can we do about it? How can we make sure our craft keeps enjoying the same growth it has had for the last few years and doesn’t fizzle out?

LET’S START AT THE BOTTOM: CLEANLINESS We work with skin and hair, sharp objects and have a different client every 30 to 40 minutes, so we must ensure that sharps are disposed of properly, scissors and combs are sanitised correctly and gowns, sinks and chairs are properly cleaned and prepared for the next client. TRAINING… THE UNIVERSAL WAY There are three techniques, that’s it. Granted there are many variations of them, but we have too many people trying to reinvent the wheel. I have no problem with people trying to be different but being different just for difference sake confuses the issue and the visual understanding of technique sometimes gets lost in translation. CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND EXPECTATION I was raised to believe that you should treat people as you wish to be treated, yet so many barbers these days see ‘the cut’ as the only thing that matters. Truth be told, it’s just a percentage of the overall package. In conclusion, we need to go back in order to move forward. We need to start treating barbering like a trade again and not the trend that it has become. I feel strongly that the only way to do this is to regulate procedures and standards and stand by them universally as a collective industry, otherwise it is a race to the bottom and for many, bankruptcy. • Contact Johnny with your thoughts or what you would like him to discuss next at johnnybaba@barberevo.com

ARE WE READY FOR REGULATION? VIKKI HARRISON-SMITH. There’s been lots of talk, debates and online threads about the need for regulation within the industry. As an academy owner, I feel it’s important to be involved, put my opinion across and to listen to others. The fight is on from lots of barbering figures that believe it’s the next step for barbering in the UK. I think the inevitable will eventually happen but there’s a big battle ahead as government deem this industry a drop out vocation. Luke Dolan heard this first hand when he attended parliament and a Labour frontbencher said kids are scooped from school with no other choice but to go into hair. I think anyone who knows me will already know I am an enthusiastic advocate for licensing in our profession. It is, after all, a trade of significant skill with a high dependency of trust between client and barber. The client trusts their barber to be suitably proficient in terms of skill, but maybe more importantly, they trust them to provide a hygienic service using clean tools with no risk of harm or infection. It goes without saying that, without any regulation or licensing in place, standards are inconsistent across the board and open to manipulation. We are aware that the cuts and shortages mean that there is no money to start a whole new sector dedicated solely to barber licensing from the government. Also, the vast amount of

barbershops within this country could see that taking years to get up and running. So, what can be done? 17 years ago I opened my own barbershop and I was aware that at any time a Health and Safety officer from the council could spot-check without warning. They did regularly checks on cleanliness, sanitation, safe working practice, tools and equipment and insurances. My college education and working for various businesses prepared me for these visits and my shop was tiptop. If anything was highlighted, you had a set time to get things in order and you were checked again. What ever happened with that? We have seen a huge rise in skin conditions caused by cross infection and contamination of tools, so for that reason alone we need to get this back. Our American friends are regulated, so why is the UK free to operate without legislation or governance? Our lawless industry currently allows anyone to open a barbershop without the necessary skills or checks which I believe is wrong. There should be some legislation that has to be met. Qualification certificates or proof time served (granddad rights). Tobias Wardleworth said: “The joke of it is if you are a dog groomer you have to be registered with the council but not us, who cut human hair – no one cares.”

OUR AMERICAN FRIENDS ARE REGULATED, SO WHY IS THE UK FREE TO OPERATE WITHOUT LEGISLATION OR GOVERNANCE? The reoccurring topic in my sector is ‘how will regulation and licensing, when it hits, affect us and how we operate?’ I think it’s pretty simple; those training providers offering qualification-based barbering education linked to a recognised professional awarding body will continue to flourish. Those providers who do not offer certified qualifications, unless they are advanced training schools for those wanting to up-skill, will struggle under the jurisdiction of the new regulatory bodies. Raymond Simms believes that getting barbers on board with the Hair and Barber council will eradicate the barbers that don’t have any formal training in health and safety to protect the public. It will give all registered barbers a voice on how we think the industry should be developed to ensure fairness to everyone. The bigger the membership, the bigger the collaborated voice we have on how things should be run as a collective. It goes without saying that there will be some disruption during the implementation of regulation or licensing and a fair degree of adjustment in how us educators deliver training to a newly regulated industry. I do, however, think that with some forward planning, the better current providers can largely avoid any major disruption and move forward with a high degree of fluidity into regulation.

I THINK ANYONE WHO KNOWS ME WILL ALREADY KNOW I AM AN ENTHUSIASTIC ADVOCATE FOR LICENSING IN OUR PROFESSION. IT IS, AFTER ALL, A TRADE OF SIGNIFICANT SKILL WITH A HIGH DEPENDENCY OF TRUST BETWEEN CLIENT AND BARBER.” 83

The main reason for this, especially with my business, is how we operate already. Our structure for the delivery of education is so robust that we can pretty much bolt on and incorporate any new requirements to what we think is an already excellent educational product. SB’s commitment to exceeding the standards already in place from our partner VTCT is something we pride ourselves on. We have developed a comprehensive additional programme of learning that incorporates the already excellent VTCT curriculum to provide each student with an expansive learning journey combined with real barbershop experience. Although regulation is essential to the future good health of our industry, I think it’s important to avoid an overly bureaucratic system. Hopefully, there is a thorough consultation process implemented with a comprehensive cross-section of ‘industry stakeholders’ given the opportunity to contribute towards how the future of our industry is governed. I don’t think anyone should fear change on this scale if they are regulation proof and currently operating in accordance with best practice and contributing positively to the industry. This is an exciting opportunity to overhaul British barbering and build a foundation of excellence for the future, something which I believe is long overdue and what our proud barbering heritage deserves.

Master Barber Omar Ramirez, Pall Mall Barbers, New York.

DAN DAVIES.

HOW TO SOLVE A PROBLEM LIKE STATE REGISTRATION I SPOKE TO KEITH CONNIFORD, THE CURRENT CHAIRMAN OF THE HAIR AND BARBER COUNCIL… In most American states, you need a licence to cut hair, yet the standard of UK barbering is in many opinions substantially higher. How would you suggest UK registration be different to the American system in order to keep our standards high? “Overall, it will depend on what our industry sets as the standards and how they are policed. I have written a consultation document which outlines suggestions on many things including standards, but ultimately the industry overall, will be responsible for the standards.” Some of the regulations that have been suggested, such as wearing gloves for shaving, are seen as opinion based health and hygiene rules rather than looking at an overview of many. If the UK does get registration, how will the regulations be written and what would be the consequences of not filling them. For example not wearing gloves when shaving?

“Initially, we would have to get together with the awarding bodies and Ofsted etc to agree what is necessary within our training and qualifications. I see industry taking the lead on this, with substantial guidance that could be provided within the consultation document. Again, industry in some part has to be involved and take responsibility for this. And, who represents industry on this in the various sectors? Much planning to be done on this.” For many, many years now, professionals have questioned the standard of teaching in hairdressing and barbering. Will registration change any of this? “It will in as much as industry will take the lead on it. Regulation will change and improve hugely in my opinion, the way all parts of the industry operate, and many of the bureaucracies that we currently have to work under. The strength regulation will bring is one of power to make any necessary changes, representing the whole of the industry.” What is the biggest misconception you have heard about registration? “That if the industry is regulated, it will be the Government that will regulate and police

BACK IN OCTOBER I WAS PRIVILEGED TO REPRESENT THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE AT THE BARBER SURGEONS GUILD HALL IN LONDON. If you do not know why this was a privilege, may I suggest that you Google the origins of British Barbering. It was here under The Holbein I started thinking what on earth has happened to our once glorious industry? Barbering was the first qualification City and Guilds ever wrote, and an industry that was respected as a real profession in the UK. To cut hair in most states in America you need a licence. This is not the case in the UK. With the demise of top retailers such as Woolworths and Toys R Us due to lack of imagination and an upsurge of Internet shopping, it is no surprise that more spaces are being taken up by barbershops. It is of no surprise to me that due to fast track one-day courses and unlicensed educators, more shops keep popping up. I believe the public should know how long the barber has been in the trade, if they trade in a safe, hygienic way, if the barber is employed or a sole trader, and if they have insurance. All of this could be identified in a licence of some sort.

us… Not so, all we need from Government is to amend the current voluntary act to that of mandatory, we the industry will do the rest by self-regulating.” Should registration be international, for example registered barbers can cut hair in America? “It would be marvellous if it could be, at the very least that our qualifications and experience were recognised internationally! I would see this as being a path to proceed once we have amended the Act and industry is at a strong stage of self-regulation.” If registration becomes mandatory, what should be the penalty for cutting hair without a licence, in your opinion? “Various penalties could be considered, some examples of which are in the Consultation document. As an example, there could be a fine, another could be a warning initially with a plan for them to become qualified and thus licensed, but ultimately it would be illegal for anyone to practice without some type of licence to prove their qualification and skill. This is why the Act of Parliament must be amended.”

Keith Conniford, Chairman, Hair & Barber Council.

So in America, would an eight-week barber programme work? Would shops take on someone who has been fast tracked? “It would definitely work. There are a lot of people walking around the US with bad haircuts; even the worst barbers have a good clientele as long as they turn up on time. A good barbershop would not touch them, they just won’t.” A term I hear in New York a lot since I’ve been working here is ‘Master Barber’. In the UK, this is something that can be given to you on a plaque by paying a few pounds. What goes into becoming a Master Barber in New York? “There are Master Barbers – these are people that can work on all types and textures of hair, they have seen enough things that they know how to deal with every aspect of barbering. They should have to earn it, it can’t just be given out. They should have at least 10 years in the game.” The barbering qualification in the UK is having contributions and recommendations from Beauticians and hairdressers; do you think this adds depth to the qualification?

Lions Barber Collective, Barber Surgeons Guild, London.

WHEN IN NEW YORK, I SPOKE TO MASTER BARBER OF 20 YEARS OMAR RAMIREZ TO FIND OUT ABOUT LICENCING IN THE US… What goes into becoming a barber in New York? “You need to work under a licenced master barber for two years to gain your apprenticeship. Different states have different laws. You then go in for your final exam. I like it that way, it works well.” So if I were to tell you that you can work on the shop floor without even having any education, or in many cases have a fast track three-day to eight-week course, what would your reaction be? “I just think it wouldn’t work out as well, it’s not structured and you’ll have people destroy the reputation of very good barbers. The public need to have confidence that you know what you’re doing – you build that working under someone. Working under someone that is experienced, you know how to sterilise your tools, use your tools and get to know customer service.”

“Absolutely not. I have an example of this; in New Jersey, cosmetologists and beauticians were setting the regulations. It didn’t turn out good because the barbers were not getting the right training. They were being taught things that were not going to be relevant to what they were doing day-to-day on the shop floor. They made it difficult for new barbers to survive in New Jersey, until a barber came on board and then the industry became more respected.” In America, what happens if you work unlicensed and get caught? “Well the first time it happens you certainly get a hefty fine. If someone was to get an infection or bad haircut you’re likely to be sued, have your licence taken off you and expect to pay quite a bit of compensation.”

SO HOW DO WE GET THIS DONE? Clearly we have a lot to learn in the UK to get barbering registered. In my opinion, the council should have representation from every corner in the UK, where the representative from that area brings back information about progress. I think the main misconception about the Hair and Barber Council is that they have all the answers when they do not. For many years, I did not have anything to do with the Council because of some of the people on the Council. This, again, is a mistake. Since becoming part of the Council, Keith and other members have given me help and business support; they have also been really forthcoming with what is happening with the Lions Barber Collective. I would suggest that we need to raise the bar ourselves. We need to join the Council and let them hear our voices. As you can see from Keith’s answers, there is a lot of leg room for policies. What should they be? Lets decide before this is taken out of our hands like T-levels.

A LOOK AT THE AMERICAN SYSTEM WITH TYRIK JACKSON I talked to a guy in the UK recently who was really interested in barber regulation in the US, he was adamant he find out more about it. When I asked him why, he said that there were so many people setting up shops in the UK and changing the culture of barbering. I’m pro licensing, not just because I’m a barber school owner. I did an apprenticeship before I went to barber school and I was very limited in my knowledge, understanding, technique and my acumen. When I went into formal training, I learned so much about hair, conditioning, body fatigue, and professionalism. It wasn’t just about learning the stuff everyone talks about, I learned all the things that everyone learns but doesn’t talk about in the US – ergonomics, posture, conduct, conversation, where to position myself when cutting… so many intangible lessons that you don’t necessarily think of, which is why I’m pro licensing and education. Regulations are extremely important. Think about how important they are in sports; there’s the foul line, the out of bounds, the ten-yard marker, time limits. Those are all rules and regulations to ensure a safe and fair game. Some people look at licensing and regulation as a barrier, as something to control the system, but it is designed for public safety and to maintain a high level of integrity for the barber industry. When there is no licensing, what you have is anybody can do it and you begin to have people that don’t understand the profession but know the technique. Today you could be a plumber, tomorrow you could open a barbershop, and even if you have good technique, there are so many things that you don’t or won’t know about being a barber. Think of it this way; if you’re a homeowner and you need work done, would you want a plumber who has a license and insurance, or 10,000 hours of YouTube experience? In the US, each State has a different amount of set hours of training that you need to complete. Once you’ve completed those hours, you then apply to the State Board for your license, and apply to sit your exam, which has a theoretical and a practical element. When you pass your exams, you’ll be issued with your license and can work legally as a barber. There are add-on exams you can do in things like management or teaching, it’s all about continued education and being properly certified.

WHAT’S ON YOUR MIND? DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE.

MENTAL HEALTH IS SOMETHING WE HEAR A LOT ABOUT; IT SEEMS TO BE IN EVERY MAGAZINE, BILLBOARD AND ON ALL SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS, SO WHAT IS THE HYPE OVER MENTAL HEALTH AND HOW CAN WE IN THE BARBER COMMUNITY BE AFFECTED OR EFFECTIVE? As the world moves forward into this new age, stress levels are ever increasing. More and more people are experiencing mental health issues from mild anxiety and panic attacks to depression and more. Current statistics show that the UK suicide rate has increased by almost 11% from last year and that men are at a much higher risk than women, with stats showing 75% men to 25% women taking their own lives. Recently there has been a lot of exposure, with more and more people in the public eye stepping forward to talk about their own mental health. Is it this publicity that is helping people to open up and talk more about mental health problems? Over the last decade, the barber world has taken a huge leap forward in industry standards. It has evolved to a more intelligent and well-rounded entity – it has grown up! With this maturity comes a greater responsibility; responsibility towards our customers, our staff and apprentices; to keep an eye out for our fellow brothers in arms who are struggling in any way. The barbershop has always been an amazing place where men can come together and spend time in other men’s company. It is a safe space – the world’s largest club that has no joining fee and is open to all. It’s a place where we can talk openly and discuss current affairs on a public and personal level. I believe the barbers of the world are possibly some of the best therapists out there for their clients. We see customers

every four weeks for 20 to 40 minutes; we offer refreshments, a comfy chair and an ear. I know I see my clients more often than I see my best mate, so I’m sure the same is true for a lot of other barbers. So, what do we do with this privileged time?

“Dare yourself to be more vulnerable every day. It’s not the easiest path to take – it’s the one that leaves you terrifyingly open. But that’s the point,” Ed Stafford. 86

Because it’s not just about customers, it’s also about your team and their work/life balance. It’s about recognising the levels of ‘banter’ the young apprentice can handle. It’s about the shop owner running a business often feeling alone at the top with no one to talk to. You see, we all suffer from modern living/work/home stress and mental unease but if gone unchecked for too long, it can become a problem, and then could quite easily become a much bigger problem. So the ideal solution (if there is, or will ever be one) is prevention. The idea that we look out for each other, that we talk and address the smaller problems before they become larger, that we think before we say, that the banter on a young mind is filtered, that we listen more than we talk with customers. One of the ways that we will be doing this in 2020 is to hold a mental health workshop for our team at Jack Rabbits. Thursday 6th February 2020 is ‘Time to Talk Day’; this is a national, annual initiative for everyone to talk about mental health, raise awareness and hopefully, help to change lives. The more something is talked about, the more normal it becomes; we need to de-stigmatize mental health and shatter the illusion that mental health is negative. It isn’t. We all have ‘it’; it’s how well we look after ‘it’, and each other. It’s about being human, or more to the point humane.

F R A N C H I S E | C A R E E R S | E DUC AT I O N

The rules are changingâ&#x20AC;¦

E S C A P E O R D I NA RY A N D B E PA RT O F T H E JAC K R A B B I T S R E VO LU T I O N CAREER IN BARBERING? OR BE YOUR OWN BOSS? WE WANT TO TALK TO YOU! COME JOIN US, ESCAPE ORDINARY For franchise info: franchise@jackrabbitsbarbers.com For recruitment opportunities: recruitment@jackrabbitsbarbers.com

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www.jackrabbitsbarbers.com 87

CARDIFF B A R B E R S H O P S

THE CAPITAL OF WALES AND ITS LARGEST CITY, CARDIFF IS HOME TO MOST OF WALES’ NATIONAL CULTURAL INSTITUTIONS, NOT TO MENTION A WHOLE HOST OF DIVERSE AND EXCITING BARBERSHOPS.

RUME BARBERSHOP // RUMNEY.

Opened in 2017 by brothers Niall and John Shanahan, Rume Barbershop encapsulates the concept of a modern-day barbershop. Despite only opening two years ago, they have already landed endorsements from the likes of Clubman Pinaud and Graham Hill, and has plans for expansion. “John isn’t a barber,” reveals Niall, 26, the younger Shanahan brother. “However he does own another successful business so we decided to join forces and open Rume with big plans in mind. We figured with John’s business experience and my genuine passion to be a successful barber, we could open a new shop with its own unique look and feel to make it stand out above the rest.” Much like the cuts on offer, the shop’s brightly lit interior reflects a modern reimagining of the classic barbershop. Mirrors are impressed into white walls and patrons can charge their phone while enjoying a cold drink. The design is clean and clinical, yet still welcoming. From the top of the range airconditioning to hand crafted barber stations, no expense was spared but the brothers thought it necessary to create the Rume experience. “You can have a simple short back and sides to the full Rume Groom, including a precision haircut, a beard shape up, a clean hot towel shave or a facial exfoliation. We cover nostril, ear and face waxing, threading and black mask treatments. We offer all traditional barbering service in a modern environment and anybody is welcome.” As of January 2018, Rume Barbershop became the first UK ambassador for the Clubman Pinaud brand. Niall says working alongside the brand not only unlocks a host of opportunities but is also testament to the strength on the Rume, particularly so soon after its inception. “Being a part of Clubman brings so many new and exciting things to Rume,” he says. “But ultimately, it gives us a massive confidence boost. We are using tried and tested quality products that have a long-standing place in the industry and being affiliated with a 208-year-old, established brand shows what we are aiming towards.”

CARDIFF FOCUS

AVENUE MALE GROOMING // ELY. Avenue Male Grooming owner Tariq Howes held ambitions of owning his own barbershop from early in his career. A close friend of his opened a shop but, luckily for Tariq, did not want it shortly after. Despite just three years in barbering he seized the opportunity and a decade later he can say it paid off. “So, at the age of 19 – no help or backing from anybody – I took the gamble. I think in some ways I made it hard for myself by doing that, but also that decision led me to

where I am today and I’m in a great place creatively and business-wise. Sometimes you have to go with your gut and take the opportunity.” Originally named Fadez Barbershop, the Ely-based store has developed over the years and Tariq admits to drawing inspiration from friends Danny Robinson, Menspire and Ruger. Avenue Male Grooming, however, has its own identity and amalgamates reclaimed woods with bright white walls and standalone white mirrors.

CAPELLO BARBERSHOP // CATHAYS AND PONTCANNA. Originally a unisex salon, Capello was launched by Franco Calliva in 1994, after emigrating from Sicily. His son, Alessandro, took the reins in 2014, rebranding as Capello Barbers, opening a second barbershop just 18 months ago. The interiors of the shop are retro and rustic, using a lot of up-cycled wood and bare metal. Although there is heavy industrialism, the shops still remain warm and inviting by using low lighting, plants, inspired paintings and artwork. “We have wooden crates holding all of our products, Italian espresso and long coffees on the go as well as San Pellegrino’s,” says Alessandro. “We have TVs showing boxing or football, which clients can watch on our Chesterfield sofas and

old, vintage cinema seats.” At the two barbershops, a team of barbers offer clients a range of services, from classic cuts and fades to wet shaves and beard trims, but Alessandro thinks it is the overall experience that keeps his customers coming back. “Our eclectic interior, inviting, noego environment and our attention to detail and customer service, that’s what makes us stand out – we have built a really great reputation in Cardiff,” says Alessandro. With two shops already thriving, Alessandro is keen to continue to grow the brand, keeping that independent, family-run vibe throughout – there is even talk of opening an academy someday. Watch this space.

For years, Tariq would work alone but has begun building a strong team of barbers around him to tend to the growing client base. The current roster includes Marvin and Jordan. “Hopefully we can stay and build together and do something great, which I’m sure we will. We all have our standards set but we also have our own individual styles and flair. None of us in the shop look, dress or act the same and I think it’s cool to have that fusion in the shop.”

KEEP THE FAITH SOCIAL CLUB // CITY CENTRE. Keen to put passion over profit, Shaun Gibbs wanted to create a space where customers were treated right and for a fair price, opening Keep the Faith Social Club on November 23rd 2013. Since opening six years ago, it has become an award-winning tattoo and barbershop, with a team hand-picked and trained to keep quality as high as possible, to provide ‘the best service and artists without the ego or inflated price’. The space is rustic and industrial while still feeling clean and seamless, with a huge mirror spanning the length of the barbershop wall, giving a sense of space and reflecting light. The furniture and fittings are made from rough wood and there are plenty of antiques and oddities dotted throughout to make the space unique. “Our goal was to create something visually tough but clean to stand alongside one of our mottos: strength through simplicity,” explains Shaun. “It’s something we aim for in our décor and our services. We know a classic cut is classic for a reason: it’s clean, clear and effective.”

The waiting area adds even more charm to the space, with fridges, a pool table, a gaming console and plenty of books available to keep clients entertained during busier periods. In fact, the team even run pool and gaming competitions to encourage socialisation between clients and staff. “Our goal was to create a barber and tattoo shop that was light and not intimidating while still being clean and clear about what we are.” What adds to the appeal of Keep the Faith is their range of services, from classic cuts and shaves to hair removal (from your ears and nose, not your head) and charcoal face masks – not to mention their tattoo services. “Our industries are surprisingly similar on the most basic levels – we are providing a service to help clients look as they want to look,” says Shaun. “We have the opportunity to interact and form a relationship with our clients and get to know them on their needs, letting us give them a much more personal service. “The combination of barbering and tattoos

makes sense to us; our booking systems are similar, client base is similar, it’s a combination of industries that, although the services are worlds apart, they are both about making people feel better about themselves and that’s our goal.” Perhaps that is what keeps Shaun’s clients coming back – because he and his team care. Passion over profit has always been a key mantra for the team, and although wait times for clients can get quite lengthy, their loyal customers recognise that this is because no service is rushed. In fact, the barbers allocate over double the amount of time per customer than the average barbershop, taking time to ensure every minute of the experience is just right. The shop is also an official stockist for Uppercut Deluxe, ensuring their clients always get the best quality products: “Uppercut have been great working alongside us keeping everything locked down and being all-around great people,” says Shaun. Having a strong bond with the brand they work so closely with only reinforces their desire to remain a quality, family-run business. “We aren’t here to make a quick buck, we’re here to make a family,” says Shaun. “We’re lucky to have a very strong family here and we want to make sure they get the best. Our barbers are well versed in tattoos and our tattoo artists can chat through barber services. This allows the crossinteraction to be smooth and easy for our clients.” Whatever it is, Shaun and his team are doing something right. Maybe because at the end of the day, tattooing and barbering have the same core meaning: making people feel better about themselves and great customer service. Naturally, Shaun hopes that Keep the Faith Social Club will become a one-stop-shop for everything tattoo and barber, pushing to become industry leaders through innovation and continuing to value family and passion for their craft above all else.

SWYD TATTOO AND BARBERSHOP // CASTLE QUARTER. Former Dirty Sanchez wrong’un Matthew Pritchard takes on a less body-breaking pursuit in the form of SWYD. Sleep When Your Dead, as much a personal tenet as brand name, was often his rebuttal when ushered to bed after a weeklong bender. Eager to make provisions for both his health and finances post-Sanchez, Pritchard opened SWYD in Cardiff’s High Street Arcade in February 2014. The inspiration behind SWYD came from Matthew’s extensive experience of tattoo shops and parlours around the world, not to mention his penchant for wild haircuts. Above all, he is known for not sticking to the norm, so opening a tattoo and barbershop with rock n’ roll décor seems to fit his personality perfectly. The shop is now managed by Adrian Rooke and Miles O’Keefe alongside Matthew, all of them striving to create a shop that is like no other: “We don’t believe in copying or following other brands. With Matthew’s background, we wanted the shop to simulate his lifestyle from his earlier years on the road,” explains Miles. The shop walls are full of Bradley Woods’ artwork, with huge red spray-painted roses and skulls. There are framed photos of numerous gumball rallies Matthew has attended over the years and some rock and roll memorabilia. “One thing we don’t agree with is getting complacent about how our shop looks and operates,” says Miles. “Our shop has looked the same for six years and we’re about to sign a new lease. As soon as the lease is signed, we are having a refit to update the look of our shop – we have some great ideas and can’t wait to share it with our customers.” SWYD is full of great characters, great décor, quality haircuts and tattoos, all of which keep their customers coming back. There is a relaxed, friendly atmosphere at the shop, where all of the customers are treated with respect, so they don’t

just come in for a haircut or tattoo, they come for a laugh. Asked why they decided to bring the worlds of tattoos and barbering together under one roof, Miles simply said: “For the love of tattoos and good haircuts, it’s as simple as that. We have a few clients that use both our services – in fact, we have just opened a dog grooming parlour too which is our sister company so you can now get a haircut and your furry friend can too!” With a refit on the cards and a third business under way, SWYD have plenty of plans going into the new year, but they are keeping their cards close to their chest. We can’t wait to see what they do next.

TALKING JACK... URBAN JACK STARTED LIFE IN 2016 AS A RESULT OF MEN’S HATRED OF SHAVING. The dreaded morning ritual of scraping and face pulling, followed by the inevitable need to liberally splash cold water to damp down unsightly redness, got them thinking that there must be a better way. “So, we set out to change the shaving landscape and created an award-winning alternative to the crowd of creams, foams, gels, oils and soaps. We believe life is complicated enough so we worked to create amazing products that are simple to use with the minimum of fuss.” After all, looking good is about feeling great. That’s is why Urban Jack decided from the very start to donate £0.20 from every product sold to charities supporting mental health in young men. Their most recent product to take the UK by storm is their innovative tattoo moisturiser, which cleverly capitalises on barbers and their penchant for ink. Tattoos are currently a huge trend, with increasing numbers of men embracing them. The Urban Jack team like to interact with their customers through what they call ‘talking Jack’ sessions – in effect, focus groups with individuals that are engaged with their brand and ethos. “We quickly discovered that there were few dedicated tattoo products on the market. Lots of guys were using nappy rash creams and other inappropriate products to care for their skin and tattoos both immediately after having the tattoos and for their long term maintenance. We felt this was a product area we could bring real added value to.” The most important thing for Urban Jack was creating a solution that had a

URBAN JACK SPF TATTOO MOISTURISER

strong performance related formula. They therefore developed an intense moisturising cream and builtin SPF protection since tattoos, especially colours like red, fade in the sun. Why, though, would this product work in the barbering market? “The barbering environment should be a grooming experience rather than simply a functional service… they have the opportunity to discuss not just what hairstyle they desire but also their wider grooming needs. The right environment allows men to consult with an expert and offers the barber the opportunity to offer a value-added service to their client base. We think that consumers will appreciate a wider product selection in barbers i.e. not just styling gels and shave products, but tattoo ones as well.” The product has, since its launch, received fantastic feedback, with a number of barbers quick to spot the synergy and opportunities that a tattoo moisturiser can offer – particularly in those rare spaces that combine a barbershop and tattoo parlour under one roof. In fact, the moisturiser received a Highly Commended award from the Pure Beauty Awards 2019, something Urban Jack is immensely proud of. “So much work goes into creating products such as a tattoo moisturiser and the award just shows that the quality of the team’s input has been recognised by the grooming industry. Of significant importance, however, is the fact that it is not just Urban Jack who feel they have created a great product but grooming industry experts as well.”

SO MUCH WORK GOES INTO CREATING PRODUCTS SUCH AS A TATTOO MOISTURISER AND THE AWARD SHOWS THAT THE QUALITY OF THE TEAM’S INPUT HAS BEEN RECOGNISED BY THE GROOMING INDUSTRY.”

Shortlisted for the Pure Beauty Best New Male Skin and Body Care Product Award, this moisturiser simplifies tattoo aftercare, helping to ensure your skin art maintains a fresh, bold and vibrant look while also defending your skin and tattoo from damaging UV rays.

£14.00 // urbanjack.com

Award Winning Tattoo Moisturiser Highly Commended at the Pure Beauty Awards in the Best New Male Skin and Body Care Product category, the new Tattoo Moisturiser delivers SPF protection as well as tattoo aftercare. One of the major issues with tattoos is aftercare. Tattoos need ongoing maintenance to ensure they maintain their radiance and to protect them from fading in the sun - colours such as red are especially prone to fading. This Dual Action Tattoo Moisturiser absorbs quickly and deeply allowing the tattoo and the skin around it to enjoy a sense of calm while injecting a boost of nourishment. Perfect for freshly inked tattoos and for the maintenance and protection of existing skin art.

Available online at www.urbanjack.com

No matter what you do, the most essential thing is to love your job and spread that love with the rest of the world too.”

ROMAN S O L O AN INCREDIBLY SKILLED PHOTOGRAPHER, EDUCATOR AND TATTOO MODEL, THIS TALENTED YOUNG BARBER HAS IT ALL. KNOWN FOR HIS DARK, SURREAL STYLE, ROMAN SOLO IS SET TO TAKE THE BARBERING WORLD BY STORM. Born and raised in Russia, Roman Solo was introduced to the world of hair from a young age, his mother working as a hairdresser for most of his childhood. Roman would spend his evenings after school hanging out at her salon and over time, he picked up a few techniques. “I never wanted to have my own barbershop or salon. If I ever start my own business, it will be something like a shared art space where any artist could make their magic and some money,” says Roman. “I’d also love to start an innovative barber and hairdressing school; a serious place with lots of classrooms and students from all over the world. It would be fun to show foreigners Moscow in summer.” Not one to give what he does a set niche, Roman believes it is the people who follow and watch him who give his work a particular style. Take a look at

one or two of his striking images and the words stylised, dark and surrealist all come to mind, but for Roman, the most important thing to him is to love what he does. “No matter what you do, the most essential thing is to love your job and spread that love with the rest of the world too. I’m the happiest when I meet professionals who have fire and passion in their eyes and are ready to take risks,” says Roman. His photography skills are as advanced as his skills with clippers, and Roman often creates images not just of his haircuts, but of various scenarios, playing around with colour and light to create unique pieces of art. It’s not just behind the camera you will find Roman, though, as he often works as a tattoo model himself, stepping into the limelight. For him, the world of tattoos goes hand in hand with barbering.

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“I don’t find any big difficulties fitting it into my schedule. Yes, sometimes photographers want to shoot me in different projects, but nothing can distract me from cutting hair,” he explains. “The worlds of tattooing and barbering are two different cultures but they have a lot in common – people, for instance. A lot of people I meet due to my work have tattoos. I still find it hard to understand those who negatively react to the art of tattoos.” “For me, it’s the same as judging others for their skin colour or the shape of their eyes – it’s not good. We live in a modern world with modern rules. The times when tattoos were an attribute of criminals are long gone. Now, it’s art with its own rules and meanings. A world free of stereotypes is the world I want to live in.” His positive attitude and passion for quality cuts has led Roman to become a sought-after educator, traveling across the globe to share his expertise in the likes of Lithuania, Warsaw, Spain, Mexico, Italy, France, Greece, China, the Czech Republic and throughout the UK. He is also the

first Russia-based barber to become an Andis Educator. “I met my good friend Baldy Barber at the Great British Barber Bash in London and he told me that Andis were keen to get in touch with me,” says Roman. “I got an email from them not long after and I decided to give it a go. It’s their first time working with someone from Russia,” he laughs. His favourite Andis tool is the Andis Slimline Pro Lithium Ion Trimmer (D8), which, in his opinion, is the best light trimmer there is. As if he didn’t already have enough talents, Roman used to spend his time making instrumental hip-hop, something he is keen to return to after a long break from music. In fact, you can get acquainted with his music on SoundCloud, just search for his nickname, Ojibve. “I’d really love to have an exhibition of my work, first in Moscow then hopefully in London. To create a show with a collection of images of my best work and have the coolest part in the last 10 years, that’s my goal right now!”

ALWAYS ONE TO STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD, LOS ANGELESBASED RICHIE IS KNOWN NOT JUST FOR HIS DISTINCT LOOK BUT ALSO FOR HIS IMPRESSIVE BARBERING SKILLS. HERE, HE TALKS TATTOOS, ART AND MAKING HIS MARK ON THE INDUSTRY... He might have a unique look, but there is more to Richie than meets the eye, with a family history steeped in barbering. “My grandfather was a barber, so I started when I was a kid and I was always in the barbershop hanging out,” he explains. “It made me feel older as a kid, I got to sit in on all the gossip and listen to the men talk.” Being immersed in the industry from such a young age, it seemed only natural that Richie would follow in his grandfather’s footsteps, going to barber college after he left high school. “When I found out I was going to have my daughter, I tried the navy… I tried to become a construction worker, because at the time, you just couldn’t charge the prices barbers do now,” says Richie. None of those jobs were right for Richie though, and he decided to make the move to Hollywood to try and build a career as a barber in the City of Angels after seeing an ad on Craigslist, then moving to Floyds Barbershop on Melrose Place, where he began to develop his skill and his portfolio. It was there, on Melrose, that Richie began to develop his signature look and style, starting by incorporating elements of classic

“It started as just a small tattoo here and there and then I learned how to juggle, and one of my regular clients brought in a unicycle, so I started riding that... I just started clownin”’ barbering, like wearing a vest and sticking to a traditional look, occasionally even going so far so to wear a bowler hat. At that point, he had just one or two visible face tattoos, which at the time was much less common. “There was a tattoo shop across the street and I would go hang out there and became friends with them,” says Richie. “One day, I

noticed they had nothing at the back of the shop, so I suggested opening a barbershop there. Before that, no one had ever opened a barber and tattoo shop under one roof, so we were the first in Los Angeles to do it.” Tattoos aside, at the new location Richie was able to develop a client list that included a number of recognized names, including the likes of Bruno Mars and Gwen Stefani, to name a few. After spending time working in a range of different salons, Richie eventually settled at his current location, Bolt Barbers in downtown LA. It was here also that Richie’s own look began to evolve and he laughs as he says, “I always thought that I picked the clown, but sometimes I wonder if maybe the clown picked me. “It started as just a small tattoo here and there and then I learned how to juggle, and one of my regular clients brought in a unicycle, so I started riding that… I just started clownin’. It happened little by little and I’m still evolving, I think what really did it was the nose tattoo; from there the look became more focused and obvious. I didn’t worry about clients or what people thought because if I did, I wouldn’t be the person I am today, I just did what I felt I wanted to do.” u

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“We offer free beer and whisky, we have a TV on the wall, I tell stories if clients want to hear them... I make it memorable; I’m a storyteller. It’s about creating a real experience for the client, that’s what I love to do”’

Barbering being what it is now, appearance plays a huge role in how individuals are perceived, especially online and on social media. This attitude has, at times, hindered Richie, but his skills and his ability to cater to his clients individually has allowed him to build a loyal client base over the years. You’ll often find lawyers, doctors and professional businessmen in Richie’s chair because not only does he fascinate them, but also because they appreciate the serious barbering skills he has and the experience he provides. “We offer free beer and whisky, we have a TV on the wall, I tell stories if clients want to hear them… I make it memorable; I’m a storyteller. It’s about creating a real experience for the client, that’s what I love to do,” he explains. “It’s frustrating that people sometimes walk by the window and don’t come in, I worry people are afraid. Sometimes the tattoos help because it becomes a talking point but there can be challenges. That’s where good word of mouth plays such a vital role; you give one person a really good service, they will go away and tell a bunch of people about you.” The barber world is full of tattooed individuals, so there must be something that connects the two cultures. For Richie, and most likely for any tattooed barber, it is another way to express creativity

and to represent who he is. Barbers have the freedom in this industry to use their appearance to show their personality and Richie is, beyond a doubt, the epitome of self-expression. “The look doesn’t define me and I’ve learned over time to find a balance,” explains Richie. “I look back at videos of myself from a year ago and I feel like I’m trying too hard. Now, I’m much more myself and I think it makes a big difference. I can’t always be clowning around and being more true to myself allows people to see more of me beyond my tattoos.” This attitude has led him to working with the likes of Arod from Elegance, who is keen for the world to see Richie’s abilities as a barber: “Instead of showing me off because of my face, he really wants to invest time in showing off my skills, doing fades, shaves and working with the Elegance products.” In Richie’s mind, it is about creating a strong, unique brand that true to who you are but also allows you to stand out from the crowd. His story continues to evolve and Richie has plenty of exciting things in the pipeline, so keep an eye out, and don’t forget a little clowning around never hurt anyone. •

WHAT MAKES CAR SHOPPING EVEN MORE SPECIAL? GETTING A HAIR CUT AT THE SAME TIME, OF COURSE. LOCATED WITHIN TWO CADILLAC DEALERSHIPS IN FLORIDA, CLARKS BARBER LOUNGE BRING THEIR HIGH END SERVICES TO THE WORLD OF CARSâ&#x20AC;¦

CLARKS BARBER LOUNGE 100

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It’s not every day that you walk into a car dealership and walk out with a haircut. When owner and master barber Joe Clark opened the first Clarks Barber Lounge in 2015 in Fort Walton Beach, Florida, he never guessed he would end up with two shops inside Cadillac dealerships. The shops are designed to take you back to the ‘50s when barbershops were considered social

hubs. When Step One Automotive Group asked Joe to replicate the style of his first shop inside a Cadillac dealership, he immediately jumped at the idea and began construction inside a little office space. One month later, ‘The Barbershop’ in The Cadillac Dealership was a reality, with the team agreeing that a 1950s prestige barbershop model would work well with the Cadillac style. Both locations are dressed in black and white,

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with custom barber chairs by Franky Design embroidered with a Cadillac emblem, and a luxurious Takara Belmont barber station with a built-in shampoo bowl. Despite the small spaces, Joe and his team have transformed the areas into stylish, welcoming barbershops. The team provide hot towel shave treatments, classic haircuts and straight razor shaves across their three locations, keen to blend the new with the old. u

“We strive to bring back the old school, traditional barbering and hip haircuts – old school meets new school,” says Joe. Since 2015, Joe and his team have prided themselves on their ability to create a welcoming environment that encompasses both traditional and contemporary barbering, so when the biggest automotive company in Northwest Florida got in touch with them, they were thrilled. “Step One Automotive Group wanted to create destination points inside Cadillac dealerships,” explains Joe. “Cadillac approved the idea of an upscale gentlemen’s barber lounge that would add a total experience for their customers by offering a relaxing grooming experience after purchasing a brand new Cadillac! As most of our patrons care about their appearance, cars go hand in hand with that lifestyle.” The shop is conveniently located inside the showroom and service department, so it works well to elevate the overall experience while buying or getting your car serviced. Clients become regulars, which benefits the Cadillac employees as it allows them to create and build more personal relationships with the locals and the community. Although the original Clark’s Barber Lounge is fairly similar in look and feel to the two shops at Cadillac, Joe says that being involved in the automotive industry has added tremendous value not only to Clarks Barber Lounge but also to the barber industry in general. Part of the reason that Step One Automotive Group took a specific interest in Clarks is actually thanks to their decision to use Squire booking systems, as Joe explains. “Clark’s chose Squire because of the smart waitlist that it offers and the user-friendly mobile app. Also, acquiring multiple ways to book through social media, like Google, Yelp and Instagram, has elevated client retention.

CLARK’S CHOSE SQUIRE BECAUSE OF THE SMART WAITLIST THAT IT OFFERS AND THE USER-FRIENDLY MOBILE APP. ALSO, ACQUIRING MULTIPLE WAYS TO BOOK THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA, LIKE GOOGLE, YELP AND INSTAGRAM, HAS ELEVATED CLIENT RETENTION. This is one of the reasons that we landed our partnership with Cadillac.” For Joe, Squire is not only cost efficient and user-friendly, it has also enabled Clark’s Barber Lounge to track client retention and monitor shop production – in Joe’s own words, “there is not a feature that has not been useful. Observing all locations with the simple click of a button is an added bonus. I would highly recommend Squire to other barbershop owners.” Looking to the future, Clark’s Barber Lounge has plans to expand throughout the South East, differentiating themselves from their competitors by offering a staff of professionals who are not only certified, but will be trained in understanding the dynamics of customer service, so as to maximize the connection to their clients and more easily meet their clients’ expectations. “We hope to open a Barber School that will provide its students with a comprehensive education in men’s hair care and grooming. This includes hands-on course work in hair

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cutting with electric clippers as well as scissors, shaving, straight razor techniques and an array of classic and modern hairstyles and grooming techniques,” explains Joe. From their professional staff to the ambience of the barbershop, the team at Clark’s hope to distinguish themselves as a completely trustworthy and soothing setting where clients can enjoy being pampered, escape the stress of their everyday lives and enjoy the camaraderie of friends and colleagues. Of course, they are also working on opening a fourth location, most likely within a third Cadillac dealership in Florida: “We plan to be loyal to Step One. They open Cadillac dealerships all the time. The Pensacola barbershop is actually inside the showroom – we hope to do more like these in the future.” Stay tuned; next time you go looking for a car, you might walk away with a sharp haircut too. •

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