BarberEVO North America Issue 33 (October/November)

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System shown: Trend

“If you’re not providing hair replacement services for your clients with hair loss, you’re missing out on a huge opportunity.”

MANNY ROLON @mannymakeshair BEFORE

Hair// Manny Rolon, Brandie Reyes. Models// Marcus Morgan, Jose Luis Yepez, Marco Zuleta. Art Direction// Yasmina Padron. Photography// Juan Algarin.

KEVIN LUCHMUN.

RETRO REVIVAL COLLECTION

Hair// Kevin Luchmun. Tools// Andis

reSURGE Shaver, reVITE Clipper. Photography// Kevin Luchmun.

DIRECTORS

Andrew Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com

David Foster// david@barberevo.com

* * * * DESIGN

Shana Young// design@barberevo.com

Greg Wickham// design@salon-evo.com

* * * * EDITOR

Jennifer Paxton// jennifer@salon-evo.com

* * * *

FEATURE WRITER

Mairi Mulhern// mmulhern@barberevo.com

* * * *

SALES MANAGER

Mairi Cotter// mairi@barberevo.com

* * * *

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jane Thomson// jane@salon-evo.com

* * * *

MARKETING MANAGER

Nathalia Almeida// nathalia@barberevo.com

* * * * OFFICE MANAGER

Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com

* * * * COVER American Hairlines// Juan Algarin

IT’S TIME TO PREP YOUR BUSINESS FOR THE FINAL QUARTER OF 2023. AS THE BUSIEST TIME OF YEAR, IT’S IMPORTANT TO BUILD YOUR SKILLSET AND MAXIMIZE TIME SPENT BEHIND THE CHAIR. LET US HELP YOU BOOST THAT BOTTOM LINE FOR A FRUITFUL WINTER.

Summer has officially left the building… and with the changing of the season comes prep for one of the busiest times of the year. We hope everyone had some time off to recharge with a vacation or two before more hard work begins.

This quarter, barbershops, barbers, and stylists are hit with Halloween, Christmas, and party season – not to mention clients looking for reparative services as the colder weather impacts the healthy, strong hair (face and head!) they nurtured throughout spring and summer.

We’re here to ready you for all festivities and help you smash your goals – and bring in that cash. Our experts talk retail, business, refining your service menu, market strategies, and boosting your skillset to bring as many people through your doors as possible.

Here at EVO, we’re set for a bumper fall and winter, filled with travel, events, and the biggest trade shows in North America. The team will be at Salt Lake City for

Utah’s largest Beauty & Barber Expo – we’re looking forward to two days packed full of education, prizes, contests, and networking with you guys.

We’ll also be touching down in Texas for Premiere San Antonio, which we’re told is the ULTIMATE beauty experience. We had an incredible time at Premiere Orlando, so can’t wait to experience what Texas has to offer. Drop us a message or email ahead of any event if you want to connect at info@barberevo.com

A massive honorable mention goes out to LV Barber Expo as well. We immersed ourselves in the big city lights of Las Vegas at the first LV Barber Expo since before Covid. What a triumph of an event! This is the place where the best of the best come together and we interviewed a ton of you.

We always have plenty of content on the go from our travels, so stay tuned for our YouTube going live @evoenterprises! It’ll be packed with valuable advice.

ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

WELCOME TO BARBEREVO NORTH AMERICA , ISSUE 33! AFTER A SUMMER FULL OF FUN IN THE SUN, IT’S TIME TO GET BACK TO BUSINESS. THE NEXT FEW MONTHS ARE GOING TO BE JAM-PACKED, NOT ONLY IN YOUR SHOPS BUT WITH INDUSTRY EVENTS. SO, LET’S GET CRACKING.

Gracing this issue’s cover is the leading hair-alternative brand, American Hairlines. Ever wondered what you could add to your service menu, to not only increase your revenue significantly, but raise the spirit and confidence of your clients? You’ll find out in our indepth interview with the American Hairlines team. Every head of hair you get in your chair is unique. Everyone’s hair type, hair texture, and growth pattern are always a little different. But to be a successful barber, you need to know how to cut and style a wide range of textures, from coarse to fine, pin-straight to 4C curly. In this issue, we break texture down and offer expert advice on tackling and welcoming all hair in your chair.

Let’s get down to business. What is your definition of success? Is it to have your column fully booked two months out? Is it to own your own shop? Is it to become a platform artist and educator?

Maybe start your own brand? In this issue, we dive into the stories of barbers, brands, and barbershops who have reached their definition of success, and shared how they got there.

With the colder weather and Movember on its way, there is no doubt that mustaches and beards are going to migrate back onto your clients’ faces. But there is a fine line between a great beard and an ‘I just came out of six-months hibernation’ beard. And you, the barber, are responsible for helping your clients reach facial hair greatness. We cover it all in this issue.

Finally, it’s time to let your freak flag fly. Have you ever wanted to experiment with color or more creative cutting? Maybe create a more out-there editorial collection? We bring the best of the avant-garde masters together to help unlock your creativity.

SHORT CUTS.

JOHNNY B ANNOUNCE RE-DESIGN OF ICONIC POMADE PACKAGING

Featuring their Lava Clay, Original Pomade, Street Cream, Molding Paste, and Dope Texture Gel, the collection launches the brand into the modern world of barbering.

The rebranding of the artwork was inspired by a need for a stronger and more dynamic shelf presence across barbershops and salons. The newly designed pomade boxes feature a set of colors and gradient accent colors for each unique product. The polygons on each box will get more complex depending on the hold of each product. There also lies hold and shine quick-reference effects bars on one side of the boxes to help barbers with recall and purchase.

Isabella Quiroz, Social Media Specialist for Johnny B’s said: “We wanted to create special, distinctive, and value-focused packaging that would

promote Johnny B. Hair Care. Ultimately, the goal was to increase brand visibility and overall appeal with the intention of increasing sales volume, revenue, and transforming the brand reputation as one that is primarily recognized as a pomade-first brand.”

Isabella continued: “All five pomades in our line have undergone this redesign process. We are launching this new package campaign with the pomade that started it all; the Original Pomade. Available NOW and will be followed by Lava Clay and Dope Texture Gel in the months to come.”

BARBERVILLE FESTIVAL STARTS OCTOBER WITH A BANG

Ran by our own columnist, CJ Foreman, the second BarberVille Festival will kick off at the beginning of this month in Charlotte, North Carolina.

This year, the event will be hosted by none-other than celebrity barber and industry leader, Marcus Harvey, and will host educators like Nicole Renae, Taylor Perry, Van Koon, and many more, as well as industry vendors and competitions, making it the premiere barber event in North Carolina.

Well-known for their increasingly popular BarberVille “Shop Tours” series where the BarberVille team travel throughout the USA highlighting the top shops and owners through their unique and creative videos. The BarberVille brand was founded by a barber, for barbers, to enhance the barbering community, especially in the North Carolina area.

CJ said: “Due to traveling to numerous cities and the wide reach of our social media presence, we have built a large network of supporters which will ensure the success of the BarberVille Festival II.”

This year, barbers will discover the latest trends, techniques, and products in the industry, and gain an unforgettable experience that celebrates the art of grooming and the community of barbers.

On Monday, September 18, SQUIRE , the all-in-one barbershop management platform, hosted 50 barbers to live out their supercar dreams in Las Vegas.

Barbers got the opportunity to get out from behind the chair and get behind the wheel of an exotic supercar for five exhilarating laps around Speed Vegas Motorsports Park.

After their race around the track, barbers got the opportunity to chill in the Champion’s Lounge with other barbers and enjoy snacks and an open bar.

The “Fast Track to Success” theme also ties into the education SQUIRE offered barbers at the Las Vegas Barber Expo that same weekend. SQUIRE presented “The Business Edge: The Fast Track to Barbershop Success,” where barber icons including Jay Majors, Papito, Elliott Chester, Jackie Starr, and

Marvy Marv shared their advice on how to help kick a barbering career into high gear. The roundtable was hosted by the VP of Marketing at SQUIRE, Samm Richey.

Richey said: “As a brand SQUIRE is really hitting a wonderful turning point in our history. We have always been about empowering and enriching the barbering community, but we really wanted to bring that to light in a new way and give back to the community with new experiences.”

She continued: “SQUIRE is here not just to be your booking app. We want to be the business partner that’s helping put you on the fast track to success.” With such an exhilarating weekend hosted by SQUIRE, there is no doubt that the participating barbers are ready to rev up their careers.

JOIN THE STMNT STYLING COMPETITION AND WIN BIG!

STMNT grooming is excited to invite all talented barbers and short hair specialists to showcase their skills in this thrilling STMNT styling competition! This is your chance to take centre stage and win fantastic prizes, including a grand prize trip for two to be part of the 2024 STMNT Summit, as well as full product and merchandise packages featuring the exclusive STMNT artist edition design collection.

COMPETITION DETAILS

HOW TO WIN:

It’s simple – style to win! Share your best STMNT looks on Instagram and TikTok using the hashtags #styledwithstmnt and #makeyourstmnt and don’t forget to tag @stmntgrooming. Your creativity and talent could earn you the title of STMNT styling champion.

WHERE TO PARTICIPATE:

Join the competition via @stmntgrooming Instagram and TikTok channels, and follow to stay updated and be part of this exciting contest!

AMAZING PRIZES:

1ST PRIZE: The ultimate STMNT experience awaits the grand prize winner – a trip for two to be part of a STMNT event/ photoshoot in 2024. Prepare to be inspired and create magic with the STMNT team!

2ND & 3RD PRIZE: Runners-up won’t be left empty-handed! They will receive a complete STMNT product and merchandise package, including the exclusive STMNT artist edition design collection.

MEET THE JURY:

Your entries will be judged by the three esteemed STMNT creators: Julius Cvesar, Staygold, and Nomad Barber. These industry icons know what it takes to make a statement with short hair, and they can’t wait to see your unique STMNT styles.

WINNER ANNOUNCEMENT:

The moment we’ve all been waiting for! The winners of the STMNT styling competition will be officially announced in February 2024. Keep your eyes on STMNT channels for the big reveal!

Don’t miss this incredible opportunity to showcase your talent, win amazing prizes, and be a part of the STMNT legacy. STMNT grooming is all about celebrating the craft and making statements, and we can’t wait to see your STMNT creations.

WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS… LV BARBER EXPO MAKES TRIUMPHANT RETURN

After a four-year, hiatus, LV Barber Expo, led by Jay Majors, came back with a bang this September.

Located at Westgate Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, on September 17th, LV Barber Expo offered barbers a jam-packed day, filled with education, competition, inspiration, and exclusive access to the latest launches.

Early-rising barbers benefitted from a morning filled with education and seminars by top barbers and brands, including Squire, BaBylissPRO, L3vel3, Cocco, Blonde Solutions, Andis, and more!

By mid-day, a buzz filled the hotel ballroom, with thousands of barbers eager to get onto the exhibition floor, which was open from 2:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m. BarberEVO talked to attendees who had traveled from all over North America to the show and were hungry to get the latest education, products, and network with their industry peers and heroes.

Attendees certainly made the most of this one-day event, as the exhibition floor stayed busy and buzzing for the entire duration of the event.

Dennis Colpitts from BaBylissPRO said:

“Anytime we can get out, shake hands with the barbering community, show new products, and see the excitement on peoples’ faces, it is always a great day. […] I think Jay Majors is probably the best promoter and event coordinator, and he puts on the best shows. Nobody works harder than that guy. I only expect Jay to continue to grow the show.”

Steve Berry from Barber Strong said: “We did the first two iterations of the LV Barber EXPO, and it was a young and growing show, but today… there were a lot of people here. We were pleasantly surprised at how successful today has been for us too. We packed enough product for two shows, as we are on our way to San Antonio, and well, we are going to have to ship some more out!”

As the evening wrapped up, we spoke to event founder Jay Majors for his take on the event’s success. He said: “My partner Jackie Starr and I were amazed and grateful for the overwhelming support and unity of this year’s LV Barber Expo. We cannot wait to show you what we have in store for 2024. Stay tuned…”

DID WAHL JUST DROP AN

At the heart of every barbershop is a musical backdrop that sets the tone for the space, the experiences, and the clients. The sound of their iconic clippers and trimmers has always been an omnipresent hum in the background of every haircut. In a bold creative move, Wahl blended these familiar sounds with music that resonates with modern professionals, giving birth to six fresh tracks, each seamlessly incorporating the distinctive sounds of a Wahl tool all while celebrating the unique identity and diversity of industry pros.

The Icons of Wahl campaign features legendary professionals, including Rick Morin, Fernando Ibánez, Garland Fox, Kristi Faulkner, Nieves, and Arisa Thomas, each paired with the headlining Wahl tool

ALBUM?

that has played a pivotal role in shaping their careers:

01. Rock the Look - Rick Morin feat. Wahl Senior® (80’s Rock)

02. Abracadabra - Kristi Faulkner feat. Wahl Magic Clip® (Electro Pop)

03. Style Standards - Garland Fox feat. Wahl Legend® (Jazz)

04. El Cabello - Fernando Ibánez feat. Wahl Super Taper® (Latin)

05. Fine Tune - Nieves feat. Detailer® Li (Alt Hip-Hop)

06. Fur Sure - Arisa Thomas feat. KM10® (Easy Pop)

The original Icons of Wahl songs can be enjoyed on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, and can be downloaded from wahlpro.com/icons

CULTURE & COMMUNITY

A LOT IS GOING ON AT ROLDA HQ, FROM LAUNCHING THEIR RECENT ADDITIONS TO THE URBAN HAIR COLLECTION TO WRAPPING UP THEIR INTERNATIONAL TOUR WITH A BIG BLOW-OUT EVENT IN MIAMI. WE CAUGHT UP WITH EDUCATOR AND AMBASSADOR, CHICO BOOM TO GET THE SKINNY ON ROLDA’S BIG MOVES.

With the slogan, ‘Made for Men, Approved by Barbers, founder, Don Luigi, has always ensured that the culture of barbering and the barbering community is always at the heart and center of the brand.

Chico said: “No matter what, every product created is trialed and consulted with barbers before it goes out. While there have always been opportunities to be pulled more into the consumer world, our founder Don Luigi is passionate about the professional, and ensures that the brand is immersed into the culture and community of barbering.” Rolda’s Urban Collection is a perfect example of this.

Chico explained: “The Urban Collection was originally released in 2002, starting with the styling

and was shortly followed by the aftershave cologne, shaving gels, and shaving creams. Now, the Urban Collection has expanded even further, adding three new pomades and an anti-frizz hairspray.

“This collection was specifically inspired by the Wynwood District of Miami, an area that is full of life, energy, and art; it is a creative cultural hub of Miami. Don Luigi and the Rolda team were inspired by how diverse and full of life these urban art districts, like Wynwood and so many others around the world, could be. They are places where individuals are encouraged to be themselves, 100%."

“Rolda acknowledged that a lot of the best barbers and hair artists are born out of urban districts like this, where art, culture, music, and life all come together. This means, that the barber culture has become inherently tied to urban culture

and shares a lot of parallels with other cultural elements that come out of urban areas, like graffiti culture, hip hop culture.”

So, what sets the Urban Collection apart? Chico explained: “Well, as always, the products in the Urban Collection are top quality, with unbeatable formulas. But the first thing you will notice is the visual design, the colors, and the patterns, they are all reminiscent of urban graffiti-style art. The other thing that sets the Urban Collection apart is the iconic fragrances.”

Each of the new pomades featured in the Urban Collection joins a different distinctive fragrance family within the Collection: Sunset, Midnight, and Freestyle. Chico explained: “The Sunset Pomade has a special edge control formula, featuring Argan Oil. The Sunset fragrance was inspired by Miami at sunset. To me, the scent makes me feel like I am driving a ’69 droptop with my sunglasses on, right down Ocean Drive.

“The Midnight Pomade offers a water-based formula, medium hold, and medium shine. Again, the Midnight fragrance is fantastic, and brings you back to those warm summer nights, coming outside after dancing all night.”

“Again, the Freestyle Pomade has a similar formula, but features a very masculine scent, inspired by the hip-hop scene.”

The final product that has been added to the Urban Collection is the Anti-Frizz Hair Spray. “At Rolda, we want to ensure we are creating products for all types and all climates. In Florida, we get such a high level of humidity, that it is common for hair to get frizzy, curly, and wavy. So, this hair spray has been specifically formulated so that men can get control of their hair and maintain self-confidence throughout the day.”

“OUR FOUNDER DON LUIGI IS PASSIONATE ABOUT THE PROFESSIONAL, AND ENSURES THAT THE BRAND IS IMMERSED INTO THE CULTURE AND COMMUNITY OF BARBERING.”

ROLDA INTERNATIONAL BARBER TOUR TAKES MIAMI

Coming up on the 22nd of October, the barbering event of the year hits Miami. Along with Co-Host, Jay Majors, Chico will be leading the day, and he just can’t wait.

So far on the tour, Rolda has hit over 40 cities across North and South America, with the final event landing in Miami, Florida, for a day filled with education, motivation, inspiration, barber battles, and so much more.

Chico said: “I am looking forward to closing out a big year for Rolda. This year has certainly been one for the books. We have been everywhere from Panama to Chile, and all over the States. We just want to end the 2023 tour with a bang.

“I am really excited about working with my colleagues, getting to grace the stage with my brother Jay Majors, and hanging out with top educators like Squeak Pro Barber, Andy Authentic, Jimmy Negron, Fernando Corps, and Alejandra Mendoza.”

Chico hinted: “Each year, we always bring a new little flavor, so there will be a few special surprises for our guests. One thing I can guarantee is you will walk away feeling inspired, motivated, and with plenty of little goodies from Rolda, as well as from our partner brands, including Barber Strong, BaBylissPRO and JRL, as well as local acclaimed artists too!”

EACH YEAR, BABYLISSPRO RELEASES A SERIES OF LIMITED-EDITION HOLIDAY COLLECTIONS THAT CREATE A WHIRLWIND OF HYPE IN THE BARBERING COMMUNITY. THIS YEAR IS NO DIFFERENT. AMONG THE THREE LIMITED-EDITION LAUNCHES, THE LIMITEDFX CAMO CLIPPER & TRIMMER PROPACK IS MAKING AN ESPECIALLY BIG SPLASH.

One of the biggest fans of these new holiday collections from BaBylissPRO is Rachel Romero (@barberologist_) BaBylissPRO Barber Ambassador. We caught up with Rachel to find out if these new launches live up to the hype.

Rachel said: “This year’s holiday collection is definitely an eye-catcher. The camo colorway is so unique, and so different compared to the other collections BaBylissPRO has released in the past. It is clear that BaBylissPRO is always paying attention and taking inspiration from the trends in the barbering and the fashion world, and coming up with tools and designs that feel fresh, modern, and fun. I think this camo collection, in particular, has caught a lot of barbers’ attention because of how fun and flashy it looks, plus, I love that the clipper and trimmer come as a combo.”

But for Rachel, it’s not just what’s on the outside that counts, and these tools are just as cool on the inside as they are on the outside. The BaBylissPRO Limited FX Clipper and Trimmer feature many innovative details that make them even more desirable to professionals. For example, the LimitedFX Clipper features the Black Graphite Fade Blade, while the Trimmer features the Black Graphite Deep-Tooth 2.0 mm T-Blade. Both tools also feature new 3,300 mAh LithiumIon Batteries with up to four hours of runtime. Finally, one of the most exciting features is the NEW standard jack and USB-C Charging Port. This was a game-changer for Rachel.

“Now, with the USB-C Charging Port, in addition to the original charging port, BaBylissPRO is making it more easily accessible for barbers to charge their tools, whether they’re

Photography // BaBylissPRO // Jonathan Cabada

traveling, on the go, or just moving around the shop. This just shows how committed BaBylissPRO is to innovation, always looking ahead to how they can make changes that will make tools easier and more accessible for all professionals in the industry.”

Now, let’s talk about blades! If you check out Rachel’s Instagram, you can find a helpful video where she dissects the differences between last year’s holiday clipper which featured the BaBylissPRO Wedge Blade, and this year’s clipper which features the Fade Blade. She said: “These blades are both examples of BaBylissPRO’s ingenuity and innovation. Both, last year’s and this year’s blades are graphite, which will give you a much smoother glide, stay cooler longer, and ultimately be more optimal for cutting compared to a regular metal blade. The Wedge Blade on last year’s edition is like a hybrid between a Taper Blade and a Fade Blade, so, it helps you give a more neutral shape, because of the wedges on the blade. This year’s LimitedFX Clipper’s Fade Blade is great when you are vertical cutting, as you have a flatter surface for bald fading. I am personally a big fan of both, and the great thing about the BaBylissPRO tools is that all our blades are interchangeable, so you can swap and change easily depending on your preference and your cut.”

Rachel also mentioned her love for the BaBylissPRO Collection as a whole. She said: “This year’s holiday launches are insane. Not only is this Camo Clipper and Trimmer a show stopper, but the collection also includes the LimitedFX Gold Pre-Pack, and the Iridescent collections, which include the LithiumFX Pre-Pack, the LoPROFX Clipper and Trimmer, and the Single UVFOIL

Shaver. I especially cannot wait to get my hands on the UVFOIL Shaver, which is one of the most exciting BaBylissPRO tools to have launched this year. I am also obsessed with the Iridescent collection’s design. I can’t wait to get nails to match!” she laughed.

Aside from all of the innovation and technology across these tools, Rachel explained that she believes having this wide range of designs and colorways is just one of many ways that BaBylissPRO encourages barbers to embrace their individuality. Rachel said: “As someone who has transitioned from the styling world to the barbering world, and as a woman in the barbering industry, I love that BaBylissPRO has created something that everyone will love, no matter your personal style, your skillset, or the type of cuts you love to do.”

While the holidays are an especially exciting time of year, with launches that will be causing frenzy in the months to come, BaBylissPRO is a company to love – all year round. Rachel said: “I just really appreciate that BaBylissPRO is always listening to the people in the industry, who are out here using the tools and doing the haircuts behind the chair. They listen, and they change what needs to change and innovate where innovation is needed. The team at BaByliss is passionate about helping stylists and barbers grow in the industry and providing them with education on how to get the most out of their tools, with techniques and tips that can help them grow their careers. That’s just who BaBylissPRO are at the core, and that’s why so many of us barbers and stylists trust them.”

LO-PROFX Limited Edition

Iridescent High-Performance Clipper and Trimmer

LithiumFX+ Limited Edition

Limited Edition GOLDFX Trimmer and UV-Disinfecting Single-Foil Shaver Duo Pack

Iridescent Clipper and Trimmer Duo Pack babylisspro.com

UV-Foil Limited Edition Iridescent UV-Disinfecting Single-Foil Shaver

LimitedFX Camo Collection Clipper and Trimmer Duo Pack

SAMSON’S HAIRCARE DEAD SEA CLAY

An easy-to-use moldable hairstyling clay that provides a matte finish and a medium-to-high hold. Ideal for naturallooking style that lasts all day.

$22.00 // samsonshaircare.com

SAFEWEAR GLOVES VINYL GLOVES AND NITRILE GLOVES

FDA approved, Medical Examination Grade disposable vinyl and nitrile gloves. Ambidextrous, beaded cuff, textured fingers, powder-free with no natural rubbers or latex. mysupplyguy.shop

ACUT ABOVE

WAHL PROFESSIONAL POWER STATION ™

Have it your way with the customizable Wahl Professional Power Station™. This premium, weighted power station charges three Wahl Professional cordless clippers, trimmers or shavers with one cord and includes a USB-C port for phone or iPad charging. Six included tool inserts means you can mix and match any combination of tools to charge – all in one space-saving design.

$199.00 // wahlpro.com

GAMMA+ CYBORG HAIR CLIPPER

Equipped with a digital brushless motor to ensure efficient power transfer for smoother operation and reduced heat. Its high torque density minimizes vibrations and sound for a quieter experience.

$219.95 // gammaplusna.com

BY.APPT.ONLY THE GENERAL (LITE)PROFESSIONAL GROOMING BAG

Engineered to fit all your barbering tools and accessories, By.Appt. Only have launched a compact version of the brand’s iconic ‘The General’ bag. Designed to safely carry up to three clippers, this carry-on sized bag is perfect for professionals who are on the go.

$249.99 // byapptonly.co

BABYLISSPRO LIMITEDFX COLLECTION

CLIPPER AND TRIMMER

This limited edition camo duo is one of the most unique sets on the market with its iconic camo colorway. The tools feature the Black Graphite Fade Blade on the Clipper, and the Black Graphite DeepTooth T-Blade on the Trimmer, as well as efficient, yet quieter brushless motors.

$299.99 // BaBylissPRO.com

ROLDA NEW URBAN COLLECTION POMADES

Featuring Rolda’s Freestyle, Midnight and Sunset Pomades, with three distinct fragrances inspired by Miami’s urban cultures. Both Freestyle and Midnight offer medium hold and medium shine, and Sunset offers an edge controlling formula.

$13.00 // rolda.com

LAYRITE NATURAL MATTE CREAM

A lightweight, water-based shaping cream that adds texture and creates flexible hold for a range of styles. Flexible, medium hold keeps your style in place all day while leaving hair feeling soft and natural-not stiff or waxy.

From $12.50 // layrite.com

AMERICAN CREW CREAM POMADE

Light to medium hold with a natural low-shine finish. Provides moisturizing and conditioning benefits for healthier looking hair, leaving a textured definition to your hairstyle.

americancrew.com

JRL PROFESSIONAL ONYX PROFESSIONAL CORDLESS HAIR CLIPPER

This design will consistently charge to 100% even after extended use. Equipped with Onyx Fade Precision Blade, helping to get the fresh fade look (max. length: 3.5mm).

LED display indicates remaining battery time in the current speed setting.

$195.00 // jrlusa.com

NEW! SAMSON’S HAIRCARE DEAD SEA CLAY

WILL MAKE ANY MAN’S HAIR STAND UP AND STAND OUT

Samson's Haircare, the artisanal men’s hair and beard care range, have recently launched an innovative hair styling clay designed to help men achieve and maintain the perfect hairstyle, while at the simultaneously nourishing the hair with vital minerals. Samson’s Haircare Dead Sea Clay is an easyto-use moldable hairstyling clay that provides a matte finish and a medium-to-high hold. It is ideal for men (or anyone with short hair) who wants a natural-looking style that lasts all day.

This new hair styling clay is made with natural ingredients sourced from the Dead Sea region on the Eastern shores of Jordan. The formula predominantly contains the coveted Dead Sea Clay, which is known for its nourishing and healing properties that cleanse and purify the hair. The product also contained the addition of Black Hawaiian Sea Salt which delivers a naturally soft and moldable texture. Samson’s Dead Sea Clay is suitable for all hair types and can be used daily to revitalize hair texture. And….the best part is that this clay can actually be rinsed out with water!

Dead Sea Clay is medium-tostrong hold, which makes pliable and easy to use, allowing you to style hair into the desired look with

ease. Whether you prefer a casual, messy, textured look, or a more formal, modern pompadour style, this clay provides a natural-looking ultra-matte finish that lasts all day.

"We know that men want a hair product that is easy-to-use and delivers great results," said Adam Muncy, co-founder of Samson’s Haircare. "We originally started experimenting with Dead Sea Clay for its healing and restorative properties and our new forming clay is specifically designed to provide a range of benefits for men's hair. The product itself is a major achievement for my partner Jake, as a brewer and formulator, as this improves hair health and delivers a natural-looking style that lasts all day. We believe that this product will be a game-changer for men who want to achieve stylish and healthy-looking hair with minimal effort. Usually, it's almost impossible to check all these boxes at once, but Samson’s Dead Sea Clay allows us to do so."

Dead Sea Clay is now available for purchase online at Samson's Haircare website. Customers can enjoy free shipping on orders over $16 and a 30-day money-back guarantee.

For more information on the Dead Sea Clay Hair Product and other Samson's Haircare products, please visit their website samsonshaircare.com

KNOW NO BOUNDARIES WITH AMERICAN HAIRLINES

CELEBRATING 45 YEARS AS A LEADER IN NON-SURGICAL HAIR REPLACEMENT, AMERICAN HAIRLINES AND HAIRUWEAR HAVE PROVIDED LIFE-CHANGING PRODUCTS, BRINGING CONFIDENCE BACK TO CLIENTS EXPERIENCING HAIR LOSS. WE DIVE INTO THE PEOPLE AND THE ETHOS BEHIND THIS INNOVATIVE AND INSPIRING BRAND.

Photography // Juan Algarin

For over fifty years, HairUWear’s innovative wigs, hairpieces, hair extensions, and hair systems have blended popular style trends with cutting-edge technology to give men and women the power to instantly transform their hairstyles.

We spoke to the President & CEO of HairUWear and American Hairlines, Michael Napolitano, and Chief Marketing Officer, Michael Ferrara, to find out about the journey and what the driving factors are that make HairUWear the number one alternative hair company in the world.

In 1979, together with his wife Denise, and his mother Eleanor, Michael Napolitano launched American Hairlines. In the years that followed, it became a world leader, providing the industry’s most highly regarded, fashion-forward, best quality hair replacement programs to businesses worldwide.

Still family-owned and operated, Napolitano continues to build on the company’s original foundation. He said: “We’re happy to say that we’re bigger, better, and more innovative than ever. Reflecting on our history brings us great joy. Our commitment is to continue to bring together the best stylists, designers, and artistic talent to innovate and create the styles of tomorrow.”

All American Hairlines systems are comfortable and secure, seamless, and sophisticated, undetectable, and uncompromising. Napolitano explained: “They are hand-crafted with innovative features and 100% human hair for a look that is naturally believable. Advanced materials and techniques give the appearance of hair growing directly from the scalp and amazingly realistic front hairlines.”

He continued: “We take tremendous pride in every product we produce. Our dedication to quality starts with the hair we source and extends through our manufacturing, packaging, and distribution processes. Nothing is more important to us than the quality of our products.”

So, what has the secret to success been for Napolitano and his brands? He explained: “None of our success would be possible without a commitment to education. Education about the products and application is key. Our products are made with such care and quality that they’re very easy to use if the barber or technician is well trained. This allows professional barbers and stylists to be the

artists they are! They appreciate the styling freedom they get with American Hairlines' high-quality products. Our mission is to provide a brilliant result to every client. We are very fortunate to have our VP of Sales & Business Development, Ellen Williams with us for 25 years while Sheldon Tuttle has been with HairUWear for 17 years as Director of Education & Trade Shows. These two outstanding leaders ensure our mission is achieved.”

While almost half a century with American Hairlines is a huge milestone to look back upon, the company is focused on what lies ahead. Napolitano said: “We want everyone to feel beautiful and special, no matter what their budget is. Our goal is to provide professional barbers and stylists with a product they can trust and their clients truly enjoy wearing.”

Michael Ferrara added: “We’re extremely proud of constantly being ahead of the latest hair trends, the care and quality that goes into every American Hairlines system ensures our customers’ clients will

‘Know No Boundaries’ when it comes to comfort, confidence and enjoying hair that looks amazing.”

American Hairlines’ Product Development & Quality Control Manager, Ciomara Cardona and the entire Design Team, led by Vice President Laurence Bate, make sure the latest technology meets unsurpassed style and versatility. Napolitano said: “Our newest constructions are modern marvels, providing the enhanced benefits our customers’ clients desire in ways never before possible. They offer comfort with security, yet are lightweight while being remarkably durable; all while giving the appearance of natural growth. We have many flexible application options satisfying virtually all preferences and price points.

Ferrara added: “Our goal is to consistently exceed expectations. We understand the unique needs of each client. Our systems are designed to be customized to fit any budget and lifestyle.”

“WE’RE EXTREMELY PROUD OF CONSTANTLY BEING AHEAD OF THE LATEST HAIR TRENDS. THE CARE AND QUALITY THAT GOES INTO EVERY AMERICAN HAIRLINES SYSTEM ENSURES OUR CUSTOMERS’ CLIENTS WILL ‘KNOW NO BOUNDARIES’ WHEN IT COMES TO COMFORT, CONFIDENCE AND ENJOYING HAIR THAT LOOKS AMAZING.”

The newest member of the American Hairlines team is Wade Menendez, known around the world as, “Wade the Barber.” He is a master barber who has been in the barber field for over 13 years. With an impressive celebrity clientele, Wade is notoriously known for his impressive cuts that exemplify his distinct attention to detail to help his clients achieve their desired look. His expertise has led to Wade being featured on many television shows and news publications such as Forbes, Yahoo Finance, HBO Vice News, BET, Black Enterprise, NPR, The REAL and Rachael Ray Show to name a few. Wade received his license in 2004 from Avara’s Academy of Hair Design in Baltimore, MD. What started off as a hobby for him at age 12 grew to be his career that has landed him the opportunity to travel all over the world doing what he loves.

In 2011, he opened his barbershop, “The W Loft” in downtown Glen Burnie, MD, and over the years he has expanded into two more successful locations as demand grew. Always on the move to improve and level up his skills, Wade took the leap to become a certified Hair Loss Specialist, becoming one of the first barbers to offer custom hair units for men. And that’s how his story with HairUWear and American Hairlines began.

American Hairlines was one of the major sponsors of Barbercon’s recent 20th anniversary in Dallas. It’s there that Wade the Barber was introduced as the new Brand Ambassador for American Hairlines. Wade showcased his phenomenal talent in a main stage presentation alongside veteran American Hairlines Educator and stylist Brandie Reyes. The audience was captivated as Wade and Brandie demonstrated the unsurpassed quality and versatility of American Hairlines’ hair replacement systems. Wade immediately jumped into his new relationship with American Hairlines spending several days in HairUWear’s corporate headquarters in Lenexa, Kansas: a suburb of Kansas City. While there, Wade participated in a two-day certification class where he had the opportunity to work with the products and interact with attendees. He also spent time beginning to collaborate with the American Hairlines Educators & Product Designers. The concept of men’s hairpieces is still slightly taboo, compared with how readily it’s spoken about in the women’s segment. We asked Wade and Brandie how American Hairlines certified pros can demystify the process for barbers, stylists, and clients. Wade said: “Our technology has

SITTING DOWN WITH HAIRUWEAR/ AMERICAN HAIRLINES PROFESSIONALS

TO GET A 360-DEGREE VIEW OF THE BRAND, WE CAUGHT UP WITH TWO PROFESSIONALS WHO ARE PART OF THE AMERICAN HAIRLINES EDUCATION TEAM, WADE MENENDEZ AND BRANDIE REYES. WE SPOKE TO THE DUO ABOUT THEIR TAKE ON AMERICAN HAIRLINES AND TACKLING HAIR LOSS IN THE BARBERSHOP.

BRANDIE REYES

changed so much over the years. It’s no longer your grandfather’s toupee or your father’s hairpiece. As stylists, you must be able to inform people that it’s not the same thing. This is a new technology.”

Brandie added: “Part of the problem that men’s non-surgical hair replacement is taboo is because most people only see the ‘bad hair.’ We must educate them on what looks good on them and how to make it work.”

How can barbers start the conversation with a client about integrating a hair system into their lifestyle? Wade said: “My number one tip is to avoid saying ‘toupee’ and ‘hairpiece’ because of the ‘bad hair’ connotation. Always speak as a solutionoriented approach – how it helps a client.”

Brandie added: “If you have a man who is sitting in your chair and making jokes about their balding –that’s the first clue. Maybe he says things like, ‘Just work around that hole in the haircut’, it’s usually a sign that they are self-conscious about it.”

How do you ensure you are choosing the right system for your client? Brandie said: “American Hairlines offers more than 30 different systems for men and women plus produces custom orders and it’s almost impossible to list what system works well for each client. We offer an amazing two-day certification course that covers in-depth the many possibilities of non-surgical hair replacement and how our systems answer the needs of all your hair

TREND III.

Ferrara shared the best-selling American Hairlines hair systems and how you can ensure your clients are on-trend and in style.

1 TREND III

Designed with the broadest front hairline of all of the Trend systems. It’s best suited for clients with less recession along the front hairline.

2 TREND II

loss clients. We also have Virtual and In-Studio options in addition to our Two-Day Certification program.” Wade added, “A stylist must consider things like the amount of hair loss, the amount of existing hair left, density, texture, color, and the areas where the hair loss occurs.”

Being able to offer hair systems is not only a valuable asset to your barbershop due to the increase in potential revenue, but it is also extremely rewarding. Wade said: “The reality is…a good portion of the population is losing hair. Since there’s no secret potion to grow hair, barbers, and stylists should equip themselves with the info and techniques to service these clients. If you’re not providing grooming services for clients with hair loss – you’re missing out on a huge opportunity to significantly grow your revenue and overall business.”

Brandie added, “In addition to being an American Hairlines veteran, I’m the owner of Elements of Hair in Phoenix, Arizona. It’s an incredibly gratifying feeling to have somebody like the product you create for them. What’s more satisfying to a client than seeing what they want in the mirror? That’s huge.”

To learn more about American Hairlines Hair Replacement Systems & Education Classes, visit hairuwear.com/american-hairlines or call 888-389-4785

Clients love Trend II because it can be applied in a variety of ways with its allpolyurethane 8” x 10” customizable base, providing exceptional comfort and security.

3 TRIBUNE

Has an Afro curl pattern featuring a thin and flexible, all-clear-polyurethane system that conforms to the scalp, and blends seamlessly. The 100% micro-knotted construction gives the appearance of hair growing directly from the scalp.

4 ULTIMA

The light density and completely transparent ultra-thin skin give this system the title of "thinnest skin available in the marketplace" today. It’s a wildly popular system due to the lightweight, ‘barely there’ feel and look of natural hair growth.

5 TREND II LITE

This system takes the original Trend II to a different level by adding two areas of soft Swiss Lace for cool comfort and breathability. Because it’s extremely thin, it replicates the look of natural hair.

To learn more about American Hairlines Hair Replacement Systems & Education Classes, visit hairuwear.com/american-hairlines or call 888-389-4785

Michael

“MEN’S NON-SURGICAL HAIR REPLACEMENT IS TABOO BECAUSE MOST PEOPLE ONLY SEE THE ‘BAD HAIR’. WE MUST EDUCATE THEM ON WHAT LOOKS GOOD ON THEM AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK.”

BEFORE.

INCLUSIVITY STARTS WITH EDUCATION. DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAIR TYPE 1A AND 4C?

ARE YOU COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH ANY TEXTURE OF HAIR THAT IS IN YOUR CHAIR? IF NOT, LET YOUR TEXTURE JOURNEY START HERE!

THE

MARCUS HARVEY’S CLIENT LIST INCLUDES STARS LIKE NAS, GRANT HILL, AND CHRIS WEBBER – BUT CELEBRITIES ARE ONLY THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG. THIS TEXTURED HAIR MASTER TOLD US HOW HE REACHED SUCCESS AND USES BEVEL HAIR AND BEARDS PRODUCTS TO EXECUTE HIS BEST WORK.

A self-proclaimed ‘Barber Star’, Marcus artfully balances his time between owning a barbershop, cutting from behind the chair, educating, doing consulting and partnerships with brands like Bevel, as well as television work and social media content creation. Word has it that this industry titan pulls up to $5,000 per video shoot whilst his day rates range from between $650 to $1,000.

We wanted to know what tools he uses for high profile clients – do they differ from the ones he uses in the shop? “My toolkit is focused on Textured hair, mostly because of my biggest clients, Nas and Grant Hill. So, the rest of them just have to deal!” he joked. “This is a positive thing because the people who see my work on Nas and Grant want something similar, so the tools are constantly being used across the board.” This barber to the stars told us what drew him to Bevel. He revealed: “I’ve been working with Bevel in research and development for years – and I’m proud of the innovations I’ve been part of in that time. Our huge focus was the development of the now successful Bevel Pro AllIn-One Clipper & Trimmer.

“I think it’s essential to have barbers in the design studios so that we can influence how tools are being made so that they have optimum performance when cutting any texture of hair. There are nuances to every hair type and we need tools that are versatile enough to work between them. I was able to do that with Bevel.

"Once upon a time, we had the classic Andis Masters or the detailer tools, but now we have specific tools for specific functions – this specialization of the innovations we’re bringing into the market right now is what I believe will help the industry at large develop into the diverse, accessible, inclusive space that we know it can be.”

Marcus told us that he needs access to a range of tool options, whether he’s working on a Marvel set, for TV, before a massive sporting event with team USA, on tour, or in the shop with his clients. “I never want to be caught without having a tool that I can use as a skilled technician to bring any vision to life. We have fade blades, precision blades, zero digital dial blades – everything you can think of! I know for certain that these help me continue to expand my

own skillset and learn new techniques through these new tools. It’s an exciting time.”

What advice does Marcus have for working with celeb clients? “Treat every single client like a superstar so that when a famous face sits in your chair, you’re just treating them like every other client. Every star needs a barber and every barber is a star – no one is above each other.

“People will also pay for passion and five-star service. Be open to every kind of client – I’ve cut lawyers, pastors, millionaires, billionaires, musicians, basketball players, therapists... You never know who is going to sit in your chair and who they might tell about your services.”

Next, we talked trends. “For the Brothers, as we get into Fall temperatures, we’re going to see a lot more curls on the top. The fade is still strong because it integrates with the center and then transitions into the higher hair for Fall. We’ll see people embracing grey hair and those who still have a hairline, will be growing their hair out as far as it will go while they’ve still got it!” Marcus laughed. “We’ll be taking a lot of weight off beards, making sure that they’re neat, groomed, and re-grown correctly. Trends that suit your client will depend on how they’ve been taking care of their hair for the rest of this year.”

The barber must give the client the right tools, knowledge, and products to know how to look after their hair between appointments and give you the best possible canvas to work from to create their hair goals. What advice does Marcus have? “Tell your guys to shampoo three times per week – especially when the weather is hot or they’re doing a lot of activity. As the weather cools, though, you definitely need to be conditioning every day. Tell them to do it in the shower – despite what common knowledge is, you are allowed to condition without using shampoo!

“I recommend Besser Hair Care moisturizing creams and humectants for boosting that moisture. It’s a Black woman-owned business that creates glossy, shiny results. Looking after your scalp is looking after your hair, so keep that skin conditioned.”

Find Marcus on Instagram as @themarcusharvey

Photography // by Fred Daniels III @justxfred)-12

“PEOPLE WILL ALSO PAY FOR PASSION AND FIVESTAR SERVICE. BE OPEN TO EVERY KIND OF CLIENT – I’VE CUT LAWYERS, PASTORS, MILLIONAIRES, BILLIONAIRES, MUSICIANS, BASKETBALL PLAYERS, THERAPISTS – EVERYTHING. YOU NEVER KNOW WHO IS GOING TO SIT IN YOUR CHAIR AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHO THEY’RE GOING TO TELL ABOUT YOUR AMAZING SERVICES.”

INTRODUCING THE NEW BEVEL PRO. CHANGING THE GAME AGAIN

FROM FADE TO FINISH

WITH OUR ALL-IN-ONE CLIPPER AND TRIMMER THAT DOES IT ALL FOR BEARDS, LOCS, FADES AND EVERYTHING IN-BETWEEN.

PIVOT LOCK ™ GUARDS

The most powerful magnets keep guards on during cuts.

SNAP LOCK ™ MODULARITY

Snap from clipper to trimmer blades in seconds. No tools required.

BEVEL DIAL ™ LED DISPLAY

Get ultimate control with our all-new smart display that powers leverless gap adjustments at the touch of a button.

THE .CARTEL WAY

BENARD (@BE.CUTS) IS FOUNDER OF NYC-BASED BARBERSHOP .CARTEL STUDIO

HE’S

As a barbershop owner and barber of over a decade, we asked Benard for intel on how boosting your skillset to include all hair types helps the business owner as well as the barber. He said: "It'll boost your bottom line in the long run. If you're in a diverse part of the city, then it's integral to learn how to cut and style relevant hair types in your area and understand the make up of that hair type.

“In NYC, I have a really global clientele, so I've made the effort over the years to learn how to work with different hair. We serve all. Our team is highly skilled to provide the best haircuts for men, women, and children. Our shop is tailored to be an inclusive environment that welcomes our diverse clientele.

“Clever referrals can't be based on numbers of people walking through your door, really. You'll see your success through client satisfaction and re-visits.”

The .Cartel Studio team works with a lot of clients who have coarser straight hair with denser roots. How should barbers approach short cuts on this sometimes tricky hair type? Benard said: "It's common for barbers to cut the cowlick and spiral area too short," he explained. "Which means the grow-out just sticks up like a porcupine.

“If you give your client a skin fade, you have to understand that the coarser and thicker the hair is, the more you will see imperfections on the sides and the back. Often, coarse hair is dark, so the contrast of the dark hair on the scalp is obvious when cut too short."

There are some key things to remember: "You must be aware of the thickness of the hair and of the cowlick in the back, where the hair whorl (spiral) is. Always cut with the grow-out period in mind too. You don't want to cut coarse and straight hair too short because it will bounce back and there's no way to put it back down."

In terms of shaping: "Cut from the point of view of the front profile and the back profile. The hair will stick out, so if you don't look at the front profile, it could create a fuzzy kind of odd silhouette to their head. I've seen guys who've had a bad cut and the grow-out ends up looking like a mushroom," he joked.

When finishing: "Cut less than you think or than you want to cut. If you cut too short, when you get to styling and combing back to create the desired style, the hair will just stand on end and won't stay back. This hair type can be stubborn so no amount of product will stick it down." 

Photography // The Team at .Cartel Hair Studio

AN EXPERT WORKING WITH VARIOUS HAIR TEXTURES AND IN THIS FEATURE, TELLS US HOW TO MASTER THE CUTTING AND STYLING OF DENSE, COARSE, STRAIGHT HAIR – WITH THE HELP OF BROSH.

“COARSE, DARK HAIR CAN SHOW IMPERFECTIONS ON THE SIDES AND BACK WHEN CUTTING A FADE, SO DON'T GO TOO SHORT.”

Dylan @dhepaga

Jeremy @jeremy.cuts2

Benard @be.cuts

Sebastian @last._.hairbender

THE COARSER AND THICKER

THE HAIR IS, THE MORE YOU WILL SEE IMPERFECTIONS ON THE SIDES AND THE BACK WHEN CUTTING A FADE. COARSE HAIR IS OFTEN DARK, SO THE CONTRAST OF THE DARK HAIR ON THE SCALP IS OBVIOUS WHEN CUT TOO SHORT.”

Benard shared some insight into what products he would use: "Brosh’s Clay Pomade and Fiber Pomade are favorites in .Cartel Studio. I use the Clay Pomade as a super-strong hold product because of its slightly tacky texture. I save it for my clients who are of East Asian or South-East Asian descent with short to medium hair (about shoulder length or faded on the sides but longer on the top), just because it has that higher hold for a hair type that can be quite rigid at the root."

Adding shape for straight hair is an art. We wanted to know, how can professionals create shape that lasts when the client is styling their own hair at home. "There is a stage in the re-growth period that I call 'the turning point',” Benard began. “The key is to pinpoint at which parts of the hair the 'turning point' is likely to occur. This means

ALL ABOUT

Benard’s top styling picks from Japan’s finest creator of barbershop pomades. All can be found at broshpomade.com

1 Brosh Styling Base Spray

“This is suitable for all types of hair and finishes. The spray makes for a great base because it de-tangles easily, protects from dryer heat, and nourishes hair. It adds volume and texture to your hair with a very natural finish. Complements the pomades really well, too.”

$23.83

2 Brosh Original Fiber Pomade

“This is a water-based pomade with a creamy, light texture that spreads very well. It provides a soft hold that allows the hair to be brushed several times after application to achieve the desired style.”

$24.94

identifying any kind of kink or curl-ish movement. You find this by wetting the hair down, taking a section, and pulling it up. Whilst still holding the hair, you let some of the tension go and see where the hair starts to curl or bend as it relaxes. That's the point where you want to cut!”

He continued: “Depending on the style you're going for; you need to judge whether that cut is above or below the natural bend. If you want the style to lay flatter, you must cut above and if you need some shape to style a more layered look, then you trim below.”

According to Benard, when working with denser, more coarse hair, sometimes the only way to add layers that will last is to perm. "I've been seeing more people asking for perms recently as trends lean toward shaggier styles and heavier cuts on the top of the head.

"Sometimes, there's no way around it. If they want a longer, moveable cut like a kind of mullet scenario for example, then they need some help to build volume – and that help comes in the form of a perm."

Ultimately: "Expanding your skillset just makes you and your brand look better. Embracing education for different hair types gives you more tools in your arsenal, making you versatile and attractive to clients and even potential brands.”

Benards is on Instagram as @be.cuts and you can find .Cartel Studio as @cartelstudio.nyc

Find the rest of the team on Instagram as @jeremy.cuts2 @last._.hairbender @dhepaga @archy.jeeves @hohcuts •

3 Brosh Matte Clay

“This is a medium hold with matte finish. This matte clay offers nice volume without weighing down the hair and is suitable for all hair types and styles. Achieves the best possible hold without sacrificing flexibility.”

$13.24

4 Brosh's Original Pomade

“This one is easy to style, even by hand, thanks to its light, non-sticky texture. Strong hold and medium shine with a flawless finish.”

$13.24

Fabian @hohcuts

“BROSH CLAY POMADE IS A FAVORITE IN .CARTEL STUDIO. I USE THIS SUPER-STRONG HOLD PRODUCT FOR MY CLIENTS WHO ARE OF EAST ASIAN OR SOUTH-EAST ASIAN DESCENT WITH SHORT TO MEDIUM HAIR, BECAUSE IT HAS A HIGHER HOLD FOR A HAIR TYPE THAT CAN BE QUITE RIGID AT THE ROOT.”

KEVIN NGUYEN (AKA @YAKUZABARBER) IS WAHL PROFESSIONAL’S USA TECHNICAL TRAINER AND A MEMBER OF THE WAHL FUTURE MAKERS™ TEAM. KEVIN IS PASSIONATE ABOUT EDUCATION IN THE BARBERING INDUSTRY AND IS DETERMINED TO HELP BARBERS BECOME MORE PREPARED WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH TEXTURED HAIR.

EDUCATION IS

It never stops for Yakuza Barber! We caught up with Kevin while he was educating at an industry expo, just in-between classes he was teaching. Kevin is not only an educator for Wahl Pro, but he can often be found teaching at his family’s barbering school in California. As California is a very diverse state, understanding how to cut and work with all hair textures is something that Kevin always instils in students.

“I like to use the four P’s: Preparation Prevents Poor Performance,” said Kevin. “Especially coming from an instructor background, you always want to be overprepared in any scenario. You need to understand all hair textures, techniques and hairstyles, because once you get into the barbershop, there is no one there to help you if you run into something you aren’t prepared for. Which ultimately means, you have to turn the client away, and that’s less money and fewer clients for you!

“For me, people always ask, do you ever get nervous when you are cutting for celebrities or famous people? And I can honestly say 'No,’ because I understand diversity in cutting—so no matter the hair style, the hair texture, the brief, I can tackle whatever comes my way.”

Kevin is one of the North American Wahl Pro Educators involved in the making of Wahl Pro’s global Future Makers™ Collection. A collection and series of step-by-steps featuring nine educators from eight countries, Future Makers™ celebrates industry-leading educators who are creating a positive change in the industry for the next generation. I asked Kevin why he believes it

was important for this collection to have a global reach and influence.

His response: “There are so many different trends in hair, coming from all over the world. And these trends are led by the diversity in fashion, culture, as well as hair texture. In the USA, we are very fortunate to have many diverse demographics of clients, so I have learned to work with all hair textures. But I think it is really valuable to know what the trends and techniques are in places like Japan, Australia, the UK, what all these other countries have to offer, and how we can bring it all together to create a unified Wahl Pro.”

“AS A BARBER, WAHL PRO GIVES ME A LOT OF CONFIDENCE IN MY TOOLS. I CAN APPROACH ANY CUT AND ANY TEXTURE, AND MY TOOLS ARE GOING TO BE POWERFUL, EFFICIENT AND EFFECTIVE, NO MATTER WHAT.”

The world’s most popular professional clipper is about to shine like never before. Wahl Professional’s Cordless Magic Clip® lightweight and now boasts a more powerful motor, staggertooth™ blades with new DLC coatings and a sleek gold finish.

The look that Kevin created for the collection is called the Modern High Top Fade. I asked Kevin a bit about the inspiration behind the cut, and why he felt it would be a valuable cut to breakdown into visual steps for barbers to learn from.

Kevin explained: “I wanted to do a cut with African American hair for this as I know that if some barbers aren’t used to working with that hair texture, they can be intimidated by it. So, I wanted to create a hairstyle that incorporated some longer length and shorter lengths and showed off some different ways to use Wahl Pro tools. And that’s when I remembered Tupac’s iconic hair in the movie Juice, with the precision line, and uneven flattop, so that’s where the inspiration came from.

“I thought that by breaking this look down in steps, it might help barbers who are hesitant to work with textured hair, or to get creative with it, because they don’t even know how to approach it. But by breaking it down in steps, and by educating cuts like this, hopefully this will help barbers break away from the fear of approaching textured styles. People distance themselves from the things they don’t understand and become afraid of them. Education helps take that distance away.”

Kevin uses the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper, 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip®, the 5 Star Cordless Gold Detailer® Li and the 5 Star Vanish® to complete the cut. I asked him why this particular set of tools was best for the job:

“I chose the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper as a substitution for the Cordless Detailers, to give me that skin-tight blend. Then I used my Gold Magic Clip® because, well, it’s just my go-to. It is the number-one selling clipper in the world, so it just falls naturally into my hand. Then the Detailer® Li helped me to create that sharp precision line. And finally, the Vanish® Shaver helps to exceed that skin limit, where it really breaks down to that skin transition.”

Kevin is also one of the trusted barbers who help with innovation at Wahl Pro, often traveling to the Wahl HQ Innovation Centre in Illinois to test and trial prototypes. This has given him a first-hand look into the time and effort the company takes toward ensuring that each of their tools is suitable and effective for all hair types:

“Whenever there is a new prototype, I will travel to Sterling, Illinois, and Wahl will bring in models of every hair texture, from tight curls, thick hair, thin hair, and I will test the tool on every hair type, checking to see if it lacks efficiency or causes discomfort, and then will report back to the company. So, as a barber, Wahl Pro gives me a lot of confidence in my tools that I can approach any cut and any texture, and my tools are going to be powerful, efficient and effective, no matter what.”

WAHL PROFESSIONAL 5 STAR BALDING™ CLIPPER

With the ability to zero gap, the Wahl 5 Star Balding™ Clipper supplies a surgical close cut, making it perfect for quick, precise and effortless skin and bald fades. It is ideal to use for all hair types, textures and densities.

CHECK OUT HOW WAHL PRO FUTURE MAKER™, KEVIN NGUYEN BREAKS DOWN HOW HE CREATES THIS ICONIC HIGH TOP CUT STEP BY STEP. KEVIN SHARES HIS TIPS, TECHNIQUES, AND TOOL SELECTION TO SHOW HOW ANYONE CAN ACHIEVE THIS BALLER LOOK.

HOW TO CREATE: AFTER

STEP 5: Move the lever halfway to continue blending the demarcation line.

STEP

blend

STEP 7: With no guide comb and lever closed, cut free-form and continue blending in the line of demarcation at the parietal ridge to the top of the head.

STEP

Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Detailer® Li to create a sharp lineup at the front hairline.

STEP

Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip® with the lever closed, and begin to cut flyaways at the top of the head and create your shape.

STEP 10: Use the 5 Star Vanish® to remove any left over strays.

STEP 2: Using the 5 Star Balding™ Clipper, start on the right side and one finger width from the ear establish the bald zone. Use a C-stroke motion and work to the back of the head. Repeat on left side.

STEP 3: Use the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip® with the lever open to create a 1” guideline or finger width above the demarcation line.

4: Next, with the lever closed,

the demarcation line using the 5 Star Cordless Gold Magic Clip®.

STEP 6: Attach the #1 Premium Guide Comb, with the lever closed, and continue blending the demarcation line.

8:

9:

THE MASTER OF

RORY SEVAJIAN IS AN AWARD-WINNING SHEAR MASTER, BUSINESS OWNER, AND EDUCATOR. HE TRAVELS THE WORLD AS A HANZO ARTIST EDUCATOR AND TOLD US HOW SHEARS ENHANCE YOUR CREATIVITY WHEN WORKING WITH TEXTURED AND AFRO HAIR – IT’S ALL ABOUT HOW AND WHEN YOU USE THE SHEARS.

Using shears has changed the way Rory approaches haircutting. “I have more weapons at my disposal to manipulate different styles," he said. "We want people to look their best and using shear techniques in combination with clipper techniques always helps me overcome any challenges the hair type or style presents.”

Shears are extremely versatile tools and when you arm yourself with the correct designs, you can achieve any effect on the hair. Rory agreed: “You must 100% use different shears to achieve different effects. I don’t pride myself on one tool or one technique. I love building the basic shape of the haircut with my long shear – I use the Hanzo HH8 Talon 7.5" from Hattori Hanzo Shears. I work

over hand with my shorter shear, the Hanzo HH6 Kime 6.0", for the top length.”

Rory also uses two different texturizers, the Hanzo HH14T Shimatta Texturizer and Hanzo HH6T Kime Texturizer. Depending on the thickness, density, and curl type of his clients, Rory will use: “My Hanzo HH14T for blending, refining, and point cutting curls for finer hair types. I use my Hanzo HH6T to create visible texture and separation for thicker coarser hair types. Both tools are excellent for transitioning from clipper work into the top length.”

Sometimes, the freedom of shears is what makes the final cut the best it can be – and the most unique for the clients.

We honed-in on thicker, coilier textures next –how does Rory shape bigger styles like afros and flat tops? He shared his insight: “I love using a freehand technique with my Hanzo HH8 7.5" Talons on shaping Afros. Longer shears are great for flat top styles. I can achieve a classic brush back style with my Hanzo HH6 6.0" dry/wet shear. Great for in-hand and over-hand techniques. I always finish with my texturizers (HH14T and HH6T) and my dry slide cutting shear, Hanzo HH1 Kamikaze 5.5". Point cutting and slide cutting are more artistic and visual on looser curly styles.”

What drew Rory to Hattori Hanzo Shears? He uses them for his entire cutting process now, so they must be special… Here’s more:

Photography// Adrianne Hoopes

“My wife Dina introduced me to them in 2013. They came and did a class at our Paul Mitchell School in Virginia. She convinced me to buy my first set of Hanzos. I bought what are now my trusty Hanzo HH8 7.5" Shear and Hanzo HH14T Texturizer. I used them for about two years before Hanzo reached out to me to become a Hanzo Artist Educator. I’ve been with Hanzo ever since.”

What are the top three best Hanzo shears?

According to Rory: “The Hanzo HH6 6.0" for precision cutting – this is an excellent work horse shear for dry/wet cutting.  Hanzo HH6T is best for texturizing – it is excellent for removing bulk and creating visible texture. Hanzo HH1 5.5" is my go-to for slide cutting – I believe it is the best dry shear for detailing and personalizing your haircuts.”

Finally, we asked Rory how he uses shears to shape Afro hairstyles for men? “I love to work with clippers on the perimeter, sideburns, and

necklines. The clippers work on the interior and copy the skull, so the longest guard I use is the 1.5" guard.

“Everything above that, I transition into my shear work. The shears work on the exterior and this is where you can sculpt. You can change hair types and really tailor the expanded shape with the shears.

“A great haircut requires little to no product or heat to style. The better the cut the better the grow out. Understanding how to use a combination of shear and clipper techniques will help you perfect any haircut regardless of hair type. You never want to turn down a specific hair type; you want to be versatile and open to every client that walks throgh your barbershop doors. Find your passion and invest in it!” Find Rory on Instagram as @fadedinc

3 WAYS TO CARE FOR YOUR SHEARS

1 Set the correct tension

Always set your tension screw so the shear tension is balanced. If it’s set too tight, the shear might get bogged down and cut the hair. Tension that is too tight can also damage the shear by closing blade-on-blade. If the shear is too loose, the blades will not be able to cut properly.

2 Clean your shears and store them safely

Wipe your shears down daily with a soft microfiber cloth. Don’t throw them in your drawer all dirty.

3 Only sharpen them with the manufacturer

Send them to be serviced with Hanzo! The shears have a lifetime warranty only if you service them with Hanzo. Dry shears will hold their edge longer than wet shears because they are formulated with high-carbon Japanese steel to cut harder, drier hair.

“I LOVE BUILDING THE BASIC SHAPE OF THE HAIRCUT WITH MY LONG SHEARS. I USE THE HH8 TALON 7.5” FROM HATTORI HANZO SHEARS. I WORK OVERHAND WITH MY SHORTER SHEARS FOR THE TOP LENGTH. MY WEAPON OF CHOICE FOR THAT ARE MY HANZO HH6 KIME 6.0” SHEARS.”

“UNDERSTANDING HOW TO USE A COMBINATION OF SHEAR AND CLIPPER TECHNIQUES WITH HELP YOU PERFECT ANY HAIRCUT REGARDLESS OF HAIR TYPE.”

THE CLIPPER

WE SPOKE TO STORMI KELLEY ABOUT HER CAREER TRANSFORMATION FROM COSMETOLOGIST TO MASTER BARBER. SHE TOLD US WHY USING ANDIS CLIPPERS TO CUT LONGER HAIR HELPS BOOST CREATIVITY, CLIENT SATISFACTION, AND EFFICIENCY IN THE SALON AND ONSTAGE.

Common knowledge dictates that scissors are for cutting long hair and clippers are for fades. But that is no more! The modern barbershop and editorial stylist is adapting their skillset to include motorized tools, enhancing their repertoire and making them a more desirable candidate for clients and brands alike. Intertwining techniques from the hairdressing world and the

barbering world is the new norm –and Stormi Kelley is the champion of this. She started her career as a cosmetologist but quickly realized a talent for hairstyling before naturally moving into education onstage and in academies when she joined Andis as their Global Educator. She also works with the Moroccanoil Artistic Team and is part of the Walk In Salon OKC team.

Photography // Angel Raws

As we said, the lines between barbering and hairdressing techniques are swiftly blurring. As an educator, we wondered whether Stormi thinks it is important for stylists to know how to use a mixture of clipper and scissor work? She revealed: “As stylists, we celebrate the innovation of color and products without question. Why can’t it be the same for cutting?

It would be smart to incorporate using clippers because the future blending of barbering and styling is already here, it’s happening now. Why wait then have to play catch up later?”

Let’s paint the picture… What longer hairstyles would Stormi use clippers to create?

“I would use clippers to execute any type of haircut, from bobs, shags, and mullets to pixies and long layers with face framing, etc. It’s all the same to me!” she laughed.

“The benefits of using a clipper versus a scissor is time; they're easier to control while providing better ergonomics. Think about how many times you have to open/close a shear to create a base line, compared to one motion of a clipper.

"When cutting with a clipper, you’re able to keep your wrist in a more stable and steady position, allowing the motor to do the work, which is less wear and tear on your wrist. Not only the efficiency and better ergonomics they provide, but the strength in the shape created by a clipper is unparalleled from any other tool.”

A barber needs ultimate efficiency from their tools, whether working in the barbershop, backstage at a gig, in front of the camera, or educating onstage. They need speed and precision to maximize their time with every client, boosting their bottom line and enhancing client retention rates. If you provide swift, topquality services, people will always come back to your chair.

From a business perspective, we wondered: does cutting longer styles with clippers free up more time to service more clients (and ultimately bring in more money)? “Working with a clipper

CUTTING HAIR, THE ANDIS WAY

We found out what Andis tools Stormi uses to create her finest work.

QWhat Andis tools do you use to cut longer hair? Why?

Once I joined Andis as a Global Educator, I spent the entire first year testing every tool they had on longer hair, getting to know each clipper individually. Now, I can confidently tell you that with the proper techniques, they all can be used on longer lengths. My go-to is the Andis reVITE Cordless Clipper. It’s a small, lightweight, removable blade clipper that I can easily interchange with a fade blade or a taper blade. I like to create shape using the fade blade because the thin teeth are close together, meaning it cuts on contact, like a straight scissor. I use the taper blade for detailing, softening, and removing weight. The teeth have more space in between so it’s a softer cut, like a texture shear.

QHow does a client’s hair texture impact your choice of tool? When it comes to differentiating which clipper to use for what texture, I still use the Andis Revite Cordless Clipper. The most important factor is the density, which can be controlled by cutting wet vs dry. Such as kinky hair – if a strong, firm shape is desired, I would cut dry using the fade blade. If a strong disheveled shape is desired, I would cut wet using the fade blade. The bigger issue would be if the hair has been color treated or lightened, which requires a different approach.

is a more efficient way to cut, because it cuts your time down while still delivering precise, expensive work. As a stylist or barber, that ultimately frees up time for to upgrade services, such as a color service or conditioning treatment. Being more effective with your time means working smarter not harder – and working smarter means using a clipper.”

There’s an extra creative freedom that comes with using clippers for long cuts, Stormi told us, which expands your client pool and opens more business for your shop. The Master barber and educator continued: “These techniques give me more freedom by creating a space for me to talk more about my passion for haircutting, education, and what I do outside the salon. Also, guests see me using clippers for hairdressing and become curios and inquisitive. Most often, clients see it as something impossible or unrealistic – until they’re experiencing it. They become so ecstatic and proud, they brag to everyone they know!”

Find Stormi on Instagram as @juststormi

“THERE’S SOMETHING SO SATISFYING ABOUT USING A ‘MACHINE’ IN AN UNRULY FASHION - WITH THE SOUND AND FEEL OF THE MOTOR - TO CREATE SOMETHING CONTEMPORARY.”

THE BUSINESS OF

MICHELLE

(@SHEARSAVAGE) IS THE MASTER OF BRAIDS AND FADES. BASED IN OKLAHOMA CITY, THIS BARBER-TURNED-EDUCATOR TOLD US WHY IT’S IMPORTANT TO LEARN ABOUT BRAIDING HAIR AND HOW TO PRICE ADDITIONAL TEXTURE SERVICES.

The Shear Savage herself told us that braiding is good for your business and your clients. Not only does it generate revenue, it makes your shop more accessible to clients who want more artistic approaches to protective styles. Michelle explained: "Braiding services are a great way to expand your client pool and position you as a force to be reckoned with; as a professional who can take on any style request that comes into their chair." She continued: “Success is about location as much as it is about your skillset. Once you refine those skills, it’s about getting into the right areas and making sure you’re close to your people. I recently moved locations to downtown Oklahoma City and my demographic of potential clients is quickly turning into a list of regular, loyal clientele. I can’t wait to see where I go from here.”

Photography// Michelle Mitchell

MITCHELL

BRAIDING SERVICES ARE A GREAT WAY TO EXPAND YOUR CLIENT POOL AND POSITION YOU AS A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH; AS A PROFESSIONAL WHO CAN TAKE ON ANY STYLE REQUEST THAT COMES INTO THEIR CHAIR.”

Michelle splits her day between cuts and braids and sometimes, she admitted, managing the two can be tricky. She told us how she allocates time and ensures that clients are prepped and ready to get their braids done as soon as they sit in her chair. A system to help? Vagaro. “I can put all my stipulations in the description box and confirmation email for the braiding session so that every client comes in with prepped hair. That means it’s quicker and more financially viable for me (I can fit in more clients per day, meaning I generate more revenue). Clients appreciate it too, because it saves them money in the long run. Either way, I’m still getting $150 for that service.”

Michelle sees braiding as an art and as an essential service, which she has realized isn’t how the wider barbering industry sees

“SUCCESS IS ABOUT LOCATION AS MUCH AS IT IS ABOUT YOUR SKILLSET. ONCE YOU REFINE THOSE SKILLS, IT’S ABOUT GETTING INTO THE RIGHT AREAS AND MAKING SURE YOU’RE CLOSE TO YOUR PEOPLE. I RECENTLY MOVED LOCATIONS TO DOWNTOWN OKLAHOMA CITY AND MY DEMOGRAPHIC OF POTENTIAL CLIENTS IS QUICKLY TURNING INTO A LIST OF REGULAR, LOYAL CLIENTELE. I CAN’T WAIT TO SEE WHERE I GO FROM HERE.”

it. Michelle said: “People may accidentally see braiding as an additional service instead of a service of its own because often it will come alongside a cut and shape up, so feels like it constitutes an additional service. I have VIP clients and always have my chair filled because of my skills in both braiding and barbering. If I didn’t have my braiding, I don’t know if there would be so many people walking through my door.

“I even now work with Style Factor, who I have been educating and attending events with. My horizons are endless – and it was braiding that got me noticed!” Michelle is on Instagram as @shearsavage

THE BEST OF

Michelle shared her top tools from her two favorite brands, Gamma+ and Style Factor.

1. Style Factor Heat Stroke

This cordless beard and hair styling hot brush comes with cool touch tips. Features five-volt USB and cool touch bristle tips for safety. They won’t burn your fingers, scalp, or skin.

2. Gamma+ XCell Ultra Light Dryer with Ionic Technology

I especially love this with the metal comb attachment. When working with kinky curls and braiding, you need to pre-stretch it a little to get some grip and this comb does it really kindly to the hair. It also cuts down like 30 minutes of drying time when stretching the hair.

3. Gamma+ X-Ergo Clipper and Trimmer

I love these for my edge-ups and cleaning up the sides after I braid. It’s smooth and lightweight and gives me the precision I need when it comes to tidying everything up. Making sure the rest of the head is clean and precise is what will really set your braiding work apart from the rest.

4. Style Factor Thick and Coarse Edge Booster

I love to do designs and this product gives me all the grip that I need to make my braids flawless.

PRICING

Michelle charges a flat rate of $50 per hour, but the below will come into account when deciding on final client-specific prices…

1. Hair texture – what size are the coils? How much stretching will you need to do and how long will that take? How many braids are they wanting?

2. Hair density – how much hair does the client have?

When was the last time they had it cut? How much hair will you need to cut to execute the correct braiding and style?

3. The cut – where do they want their braids?

Are we talking about a man bun, so just half the head? Or maybe a taper with full head braids? Then simple clean up and edge ups means not a lot of cutting is needed, so price will be less.

BY KENNY DUNCAN

GROOMING FOR HIS MOST VALUED RING!

I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to groom Joel Embiid since the summer of 2017. Over the course of the years, we have known each other we have engaged in numerous conversations that have given me insight to what is valued. Between actions I’ve witnessed, and insights gained from conversations, I can confidently say that his family means more to him than anything else. However, he is known more for his impact within the internationally renowned professional basketball league he plays in, the NBA.

Everyone who plays in the NBA desires to win a championship ring, but is it the most valued ring? An NBA championship ring is arguably the hardest ring to acquire because it requires the perfect storm of good health, team capacity and chemistry, coaching efficiency, and luck. The first four key components cause you to rely on you and your team, the last will cause you to rely on the ball bouncing your way versus your opponent. All these efforts, and expectations to receive a ring and reputation that will last forever, but will it affect your life more than who you choose to spend the rest of your life with?

Joel has been blessed with having both his parents to be involved in all of his life and they have been a great examples of loyalty and love for him. It’s no secret Joel has recently married Anne de Paula this summer. I’ve witnessed how much he loves and sacrifices for his family, and I believe his efforts to secure his family legacy

means more to him than an NBA championship. I also believe that his decision to secure his family legacy will be the strong foundation needed to be prepared for future NBA championships. Over the years I’ve been trusted to be responsible for his hair which empowers him with more confidence for big moments. Deion Sanders is known for the saying: “If you look good, you feel good, if you feel good, you play good, if you play good, they pay good. This saying applies to Joel and every athlete, actor, and artist I’ve ever groomed over the years. It means the world to me that I was invited to groom the reigning MVP for his big moment and invited to be a witness too! The pressure is on knowing that this look will forever live in his living room and the world will see this look after his wedding images go viral. My nerves are calmed by the thoughts of my previous experiences with my Andis tools that have proven to be reliable, and with my American Crew Whip puck that smells great and helps define the curls the way I desire. Not only was I satisfied with what was created, I was made happy being a witness to the confidence acquired and exuded throughout his entire wedding day! He didn’t have to worry about looking good - he knew he did. Instead, he could totally focus on his lovely wife and family legacy.

Photography// Kenny Duncan

“DON’T WORRY ABOUT WHAT YOU CAN’T CONTROL. OUR FOCUS AND ENERGY NEEDS TO BE ON THE THINGS WE CAN CONTROL. ATTITUDE, EFFORT, FOCUS- THESE ARE THINGS WE CAN CONTROL”

- TIM TEBOW.

WASHI SABLE MASTER SHEARS

This shear collection is expertly made from

ANDIS CERAMIC REPLACEMENT BLADES

Ceramic blades run 75% cooler, offer better rust and corrosion resistance and have a longerlasting edge than traditional stainless-steel blades. Ceramic replacement blades for the Master® Cordless Li Clipper include upper and lower blades with a replacement yoke with two types for the ML and MLC models. For the Cordless T- Outliner® Li, blade sets (04590) include a ceramic cutter and steel lower blade with replacement yoke, which is a perfect fit for the Cordless T- Outliner Li Trimmer Model.

ELECTRIC SHAVER

Designed to give you a close shave with maximum skin comfort. Its dermatologisttested swivel head adapts to your facial contours to minimize skin pressure. Built to last under any condition –made waterproof for wet or dry use, with an easy rinse system that does not require

®

WAHL PROFESSIONAL 5 STAR VANISH SHAVER

The 5 Star Vanish® Shaver ensures no hair is missed and creates a smooth, ultraclose bump-free finish without irritation with its independent suspension cutter bars and micro-thin gold foils which pop out easily for replacement or rotation. Its premium lithium-ion power supplies 100+ minutes run time with a single charge.

$129.00 // wahlpro.com

AMERICAN CREW GROOMING CREAM

Aloe vera gel moisturizes whilst providing hold and shine. Coconut oil conditions and shines while beeswax acts as an antioxidant and barrier against moisture loss.

americancrew.com

STMNT HAIRSPRAY

Your style’s safe with this one. With workable hold with memory effect and extreme lightweight performance, this hairspray also features Julius Cvesar’s signature scent: coconut and sandalwood with inflections of orris. stmntgrooming.us

ingredients, featuring both oil- and waterbased formulations and designed for maximum performance. Each pomade is distinctive based on hold or shine. It makes no difference if your hair is short or long, straight or curly the end result will always leave you looking your best.

$20.00 // johnnybhaircare.com

COCCO HYPER VELOCE PRO TRIMMER

Improved world-class brushless DC motor delivers ultra-smooth unmatched power, low noise, and longevity for an ultimate cutting experience.

$195.00 // coccohairpro.com

BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA THICKENING STYLE GEL

Featuring a Strong Hold and High Shine, this Paraben-free hair styling gel thickens and strengthens hair for slicked-back and pompadour styles that stay in place. No flaking, no crunch, and no residue.

$21.00 // baxterofcalifornia.com

BROSH MATE POMADE

Brosh matte pomade is the ideal product for gentlemen who love a good hairstyle without shine, with a matte finish and a natural effect day after day. The matte pomade provides a natural finish, a feeling of movement without weighing hair down. Suitable for all hair types and finishes, it adapts to all types of styles with impeccable results.

$24.94 // broshpomade.com

BARBERSHOP BUSINESS

IT'S BACK TO SCHOOL TIME, PEOPLE. CREATING BANGING HAIRCUTS DAYAFTER-DAY IS IMPORTANT, BUT HAVING A WELLOILED AND STABLE BUSINESS IS EQUALLY VITAL. SO, GET YOUR PENS AND PAPER AT THE READY FOR SOME ESSENTIAL BUSINESS AND FINANCE ADVICE FROM SOME OF THE BEST IN THE BIZ.

VINCE GARCIA

(@VINCETHEBARBER) HAS SPENT THE LAST 22 YEARS BUILDING UP HIS CAREER. BUT IN 2020, WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT VINCE HAD A WAKE-UP CALL THAT LED HIM TO WANT MORE BALANCE IN HIS LIFE FOR HIS FAMILY. INSTEAD OF STEPPING BACK, VINCE MADE SOME CHANGES, AND NOW HE IS MORE SUCCESSFUL THAN EVER BEFORE.

BARBER BEYOND THE CHAIR

Before the Pandemic, the Vince we knew was spending 10 to 12 hours in the shop Monday to Saturday, traveling non-stop for his elite clientele of celebrities and athletes. The grind was real. Vince said: “Growing up, all my parents knew was hard work, and that was instilled in me because that is all I knew. All I remember from my childhood was my parents being at work.

“But when the pandemic hit, I finally had the time to be still and at home with my family. And I realized that I wanted to find a balance between work and spending time with my family. I wanted to make a change from what I experienced growing up. I wanted to be able to be there for my kids, pick them up and drop them off at school, and work from home when I could. I wanted to be able to focus more on myself, build a stronger relationship with my fiancé and with our kids.”

So, Vince went to the drawing board, trying to reimagine his career where he could build a better work-life balance, without taking a financial blow. He said: “When the world started opening back up, I eventually decided to build a home studio, where I could just take all of my loyal clients who have been rocking with me for

years. Now, I only cut about two or three days a week. I do far fewer house and hotel calls, all of my NBA and NFL clients just come to my house. I only travel once a week to Phoenix for my NBA client, Devin Booker, but far less than I was traveling before.”

Vince continued: “It is all about working smarter, not harder. I feel like nowadays, there are so many different ways that you can make money. You can make so much money, just from being at home. The key is just keeping up the times and being creative.”

When Vince is not in his studio behind the chair, he has several other ‘hustles’ as you may call them. He is a Grooming Ambassador for Dior Sauvage, he is on the Barber Council for Gillette, and he is also a regular on The Shop UNINTERRUPTED, an HBO Sports series in collaboration with LeBron James, visiting barbershops around the country to gather distinguished individuals who can speak honestly on sports, culture and more. He is also the founder of by.appt.only™, the numberone, essential bag brand for all barbers and hairstylists on the move. 

Photography// Arthur de Kersauson

Brand deals are a key way many barbers can gain income away from the chair. I asked Vince how he formed these brand relationships. He explained: “I have been with Gillette for about five years now. I have known Lee Resnick, the founder of BarberCON for a while now, and when Gillette got in touch with Lee to say that they were pulling together a team of barbers across the nation, and were looking for ambassadors, Lee gave them my name. This team is now referred to as the Gillette Barber Council, and we offer education for consumers on how to upkeep their grooming regime in between trips to the barbershop. Like many other ambassador roles, I will create content, do interviews, offer tips and tricks, and so on as a representative of the brand.

“Then, more recently, Dior got in touch with me to be an ambassador for their new grooming line. I think they just came across my page online and liked my brand and my work, so they hired me as their first US Ambassador for Grooming. Again, in this ambassador role, my focus is providing that professional voice of education, as someone with an elite clientele, talking about why I love the products, tips on how to use them, and just spreading the knowledge of their grooming line to the world.

“Those are my two major collaborations, and then I also work with American Crew, Old Spice, and a few other brands. But it comes down to what fits me, my brand, and my aesthetic, and what happens organically.”

Another element of Vince’s career is his brand by.appt.only, a backpack and bag brand that was designed specifically for the barber and hairdresser who is always on the move and wants to keep their ‘money makers’ safe and secure, while styling in style too.

Vince explained: “Back when I moved from Toronto to LA, I was doing a lot of house calls, hotel calls, and set calls, and I was just carrying around a backpack and an empty case to put my stuff in. I probably went through a dozen cases over that time, and I thought, ‘damn, why hasn’t anyone designed a backpack that carries everything that a barber needs?’”

So, Vince did his research and spent three and a half years developing and designing the perfect backpack, that not only kept tools safe, but was long-lasting, and looked good too. I even

made sure that the bags were TSA-approved so they could be used as a carry-on. My main goal was just to elevate the industry and to create something for barbers who have been in my shoes, and to support them on their mission to elevate themselves and build their brand. Now, we have also just launched our lifestyle line of bags, catering for more than just the barbers out there. by.appt.only is for everyone!”

Vince is all about supporting other barbers in the industry, and he often gets DMs on Instagram of barbers asking for advice on how to take their career to the next level, beyond the barbershop. He said: “One thing I get a lot of DMs about is how to secure an ambassadorship or brand deal with a company. The thing is, there is no one right way, and often, it has to be something that happens organically. It all comes down to branding and marketing yourself. There are a lot of brands building into their grooming lines, looking for ambassadors and people in our community to be a resource, but what they are looking for is not just a barber, but a person with a developed personal brand. They want to see

what your day-to-day looks like, how you treat your clients, and how you run your business. They want to see consistency, engagement, and consciousness in your posts. So, the key is showing what your brand is worth, as far as how you show up for yourself and others.”

In Vince’s career, it has always been his willingness to adapt, evolve, and challenge himself that has led him to success. Vince said: “The biggest thing in this industry that isn’t taught is longevity. You need to be open to growth and change in your career. I didn’t want to go 20-plus years in my career to have nothing else to show for it other than a signed jersey or a photo of me cutting a celebrity. I feel like I am in this position to build something bigger than the barbershop, through the relationships I have with my clients. There are bigger purposes out there, just

“ONE THING I GET A LOT OF DMS ABOUT IS HOW TO SECURE AN AMBASSADORSHIP OR BRAND DEAL WITH A COMPANY. THE THING IS, THERE IS NO ONE RIGHT WAY, AND OFTEN, IT HAS TO BE SOMETHING THAT HAPPENS ORGANICALLY. IT ALL COMES DOWN TO BRANDING AND MARKETING YOURSELF.

A TOOL FIT FOR A MASTER

CREATE TOOLS THAT HELPED THE BARBERS WHO ARE OUT HERE EVERY DAY STRIVING FOR PERFECTION, REACH THEIR GOALS, FIND SUCCESS, AND BECOME A MASTER OF THEIR TRADE.

If you look closely at COCCO’s logo, the first ‘O’ is a freehand brushstroke of a circle. And this circle says a lot about the ethos behind the COCCO brand.

David Kim explained: “That circle is called an Enso. In Japan, master calligraphers wake up every day, and the first thing they draw is a freehand circle, or, an Enso. Now, we know it’s not possible to draw a perfect freehand circle every time, however, the significance of this ritual is to set the mind, heart, and spirit to strive for perfection in everything they do that day.

“This idea resonated with me personally, and I thought, this is the mentality I want to have with COCCO. Every day I wake up and I think, how can we take our tools and our brand to the next level? How can we make something better than what we already have? How can we continue that evolution of striving for perfection every day? And how can we be the tool company for all the barbers out there who are also striving to be masters of their craft?

“Whether you are an artist, a chef, an athlete, or a barber, the basic recipe for success is always the same. When you take passion and dedication, you add the right education and knowledge, and you use the best tools, that’s how you create the best results. So, we at COCCO are working to be the partner for those passionate hair professionals who want to strive for perfection every day, just like the master calligraphers.”

MASTER

TOOLS THAT STRIVE FOR PERFECTION

As David mentioned, one of the essential elements to mastering your craft is having the best tools at your side. But what makes COCCO Hair Pro tools the best?

David explained: “I have been working in the professional hair industry, developing tools since the early 2000s, and COCCO has been known as one of the most innovative brands in hair styling since 2017 when we launched. So, in 2022, when we decided to enter the professional barbering sphere, we were insistent that our tools were not going to be just like every other tool out there. If we were going to do it, we were going to make our tools better.

“The first element we began to look at was the blade. We got in contact with the best blade manufacturer in the world. They have been around for more than 40 years, working with the biggest tool brands in the industry, selling millions and millions of blades every year. Amazingly, we had the opportunity to partner with this manufacturer on creating brand-new DLC and Graphene blades that feature the most revolutionary technology out there, and they’re exclusive to COCCO Pro tools.”

Now what makes COCCO’s blades so special? Well, The DLC Blade is made out of one of the hardest substances on earth. On the Rockwell

Hardness scale, this blade measures 80 (compared to the average blade which measures 65), meaning the blade’s edge will last considerably longer. In the case of the graphene blade, the coating allows for a lower coefficient of friction, meaning the blade will stay cool far longer than the average trimmer.

COCCO also offers its Graphene blade, which features a true coating of graphene, a substance derived from graphite, made entirely of carbon atoms and bonds. Graphene is the thinnest material known to man and is incredibly strong. So, not only does this blade also offer a lower coefficient of friction, causing lower blade temperatures, but it also measures an incredible 90 on the Rockwell Hardness scale.

So, when David found these blades he knew he had something special. And an influential barber did too.

David explained: “We were looking around to find barbers who might be good fits as brand ambassadors, and we came to Morono Hodge (@morono1). Morono is not only a barber but an inventor and an engineer. So, I got in contact with Morono and sent him our prototypes, and he said: ‘I think you really have something here’. He even had an idea to take the tools one step further.

“For years, Morono has been the go-to guy for pulling apart high-quality tools and putting them together better than he found them. One of his particular skills is removing the tolerance of a trimmer blade so that barbers can ‘zero-gap’ their tools without cutting their client’s skin.” 

David continued: “Now what does that mean? Every clipper and trimmer have a fixed comb blade that goes up against the skin, then the cutting blade which moves left to right to cut the hair. But the problem with most tools is that the cutting blade not only moves side to side, but it will also move up and down a little bit as well, which we call tolerance. This causes a problem when you are wanting to ‘zero-gap’ your tool. When the blades get close to parallel, the tolerance of the cutting blade will push it to jut out beyond the comb, cutting the client's skin.

“So, with Morono’s help, we have removed the tolerance from all our tools, so that the gap between our blades is as close as possible to ‘zero’, which is why we call it the Digital Gap™. In manufacturing, we actually gap our tools under a microscope, with very specific equipment, because we are talking 1,000th of a millimeter, it's that close.

“This Digital Gap™ technology is the most innovative and advanced technology in the industry at the moment, and paired with our superior blades, this is why we have seen such explosive growth over the last 12 months.”

EDUCATION FOR MASTERY – BECOMING A HAIR BENDER

The second element in becoming a master is education. And don’t worry, COCCO Hair Pro thought of that too.

David explained: “Why was Bruce Lee recognized as a global master in martial arts? It is because he first trained under a Kung Fu master in Hong Kong, but he didn’t stop there. He continued to travel around the world, under different masters, learning different variations of martial arts. Until one day he created his own form of martial art, Jeet Kune Do based on an amalgamation of the best parts of each artform he had learned. Well, we found our Bruce Lee and his name is Angel Del Solar, AKA Master Hair Bender.”

Not only is Angel a partner in the company, but he is also the Global Creative and Education Director. Like Bruce Lee, throughout his career, Angel trained under many master hairdressers, in turn, becoming a master of all forms of hair cutting himself, from precision cutting to French cutting, condensed cutting, and freeform cutting. But then Angel took his mastery the next step further, condensing all the best elements down into a system he calls Deconstruction.”

With the deconstruction system, Angel can look at a picture of a hairstyle, whether it be a celebrity or even an illustration, and break it down into segments, from the length, the weight line, the active and inactive areas, and then using those parameters, he can reconstruct the exact same haircut in just three minutes. Angel has earned himself such an enormous reputation through this technique, that he has fans from all over the world constantly getting in touch asking where they can receive a haircut of this calibre.

David explained: “Together with Angel, we have developed the Hair Bender education system, where Angel is virtually training barbers and hairdressers on how to become a Hair Bender Master through the art of deconstruction cutting. Once certified, artists will be associated with the unique Hair Bender brand, and added to the worldwide Hair Bender Salon Locator, thus becoming a master.”

Are you ready to become a master at your craft? Are you willing to strive for perfection every day? If so, well, now you know the formula for success, so what are you waiting for? •

“WHEN YOU TAKE PASSION AND DEDICATION, YOU ADD THE RIGHT EDUCATION AND KNOWLEDGE, AND YOU USE THE BEST TOOLS, THAT’S HOW YOU CREATE THE BEST RESULTS. SO, WE AT COCCO ARE WORKING TO BE THE PARTNER FOR THOSE PASSIONATE HAIR PROFESSIONALS WHO WANT TO STRIVE FOR PERFECTION EVERY DAY.”

“THIS DIGITAL GAP™ TECHNOLOGY IS THE MOST INNOVATIVE AND ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY IN THE INDUSTRY AT THE MOMENT, AND PAIRED WITH OUR SUPERIOR BLADES, THIS IS WHY WE HAVE SEEN SUCH EXPLOSIVE GROWTH OVER THE LAST 12 MONTHS.”

SCHEDULICITY:

YOUR DIGITAL BUSINESS PARTNER

I FEEL VERY FORTUNATE THAT MY EARLY STRATEGIC FINANCIAL DECISIONS PUT US INTO A POSITION WHERE WE CAN LOOK AT THE CAPITAL WE HAVE AND LOOK AT HOW WE DEPLOY OUR CAPITAL TO HELP GROW THE COMPANY AND ULTIMATELY BE OF BETTER HELP TO OUR CUSTOMERS. OTHER COMPANIES RIGHT NOW ARE JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO SURVIVE THE NEXT YEAR, BUT SCHEDULICITY IS LOOKING AT THE NEXT 10.”

WE SPOKE TO JERRY NETTUNO, FOUNDER AND CEO OF SCHEDULICITY, TO FIND OUT WHAT IT TAKES TO BUILD A MULTI-MILLIONDOLLAR BUSINESS IN UNCERTAIN FINANCIAL TIMES. WE COVER EMPOWERING TEAMS, MAXIMIZING CAPITAL, AND PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE SERVICE TO YOUR CUSTOMERS.

Tens of thousands of beauty business owners wake up every morning and log into Schedulicity to see updates on their bookings, marketing strategies, and payment activities. As Jerry told us, his software as a service (SAAS) subscription platform assists beauty professionals in the running of their salons, spas, and barbershops, helping them balance behind-the-scenes management with doing what they love most: servicing their clients.

The tech world, much like the beauty industry, is forever changing. Neverending innovations across the board can make tech feel like a tumultuous place to run a business – especially when crises like Covid turn the industry upside down. We asked Jerry how he approached innovating the structure of his business to survive. He revealed: "I had to make some pretty big decisions. The major one was to wave all of our fees to help our users get their businesses through Covid. It was a terrible time for service providers and SMEs – especially in the beauty industry. Schedulicity's customers are massage therapists, barbers, and hairdressers whose work is the antithesis of social distancing!

"Needless to say, we lost a lot of money during Covid after waving our fees and so our income literally went to zero, but our expenses stayed the

same, which meant we lost around $5,000,000...

"I didn’t know what to expect coming out of lockdown and it was difficult to predict the long-term effects it would have on the tech industry – more specifically SAAS – and then on our business as a result.”

The term ‘invest money to make money’ came to mind as Jerry spoke about waving fees yet expanding his teams in order to keep up with their pre-existing growth plans for the company. We wondered what was going through Jerry's mind, as the CEO, as he dealt with these fulctuations both internally and externally. He gave us some insight: “The company's absolute number-one goal after Covid was to go from a negative cash burn every month (which is actually typical of growth in the tech industry, so that wasn't too much of a concern) back into profitability as quickly as possible.

“We wanted to regenerate those millions that we lost and use it to improve what we do for beauty business owners. We needed to become truly indispensable. And we accomplished this by mid-year 2023 –we are back on track with our capital, regaining those millions we lost and channelling them into further growth.

Photography// Kenzie Andren Photography

"I feel very fortunate that my early strategic financial decisions put us into a position where we can look at the capital we have and identify where we deploy our capital to help grow the company and ultimately be of better help to our customers. Other companies right now are just trying to figure out how to survive the next year, but Schedulicity is looking at the next 10.” So, what is next? “The idea is to use the second half of this year to bolster the company and plough our capital back into our services in a thoughtful way that will allow us to grow our revenue, but also continue to do the things that we're known for, which is continually evolving our product so that our customers can also thrive in their day-to-day.”

Jerry touched on the impacts of AI and how that may impact the way booking services work. We wondered if AI is something Schedulicty will engage with. When we asked, Jerry smiled and gave us a glimmer of intel: “We have some incredible innovations in motion right now. We’ll be rolling out some new functionalities in 2024, but that’s all I can tell you!” Follow @schedulicity on Instagram and head to schedulicity.com for news on these exciting innovations.

USING PLATFORMS LIKE SCHEDULICITY WILL STREAMLINE YOUR BOOKINGS, PAYMENTS, AND MARKETING PROCESSES, LETTING YOU MAXIMIZE THE TIME YOU SPEND BEHIND THE CHAIR, SERVICING AS MANY CLIENTS AS YOU NEED TO STAY AFLOAT DURING TOUGH TIMES AND THRIVE DURING THE BUSY TIMES.”

HOW TO BE THE BEST CEO

Jerry shares advice on how to get the most out of your money and your teams... "You have major responsibilities as a CEO and Founder of a company, not just in terms of financial planning and growth strategy, but also in managing people and making the most of their talent.

1 Managing day-to-day operations: Are my staff hitting targets? Are we on track with our strategies across departments?

2 Do NOT micromanage: You hired your people for a reason! Trust in their skills, set clear targets, and give them the freedom to do their best work.

3 Bigger picture mindset: Brainstorming ideas for growth, predicting any small fires, figuring out how they will impact the company, and then finding a solution.

4 Pay attention: It’s all about foresight and engaging with your surrounding industries –for us, that’s the tech industry but also the beauty industry because that’s where our customers operate. You can burn millions in a flash if you don’t stay informed.

5 Goals: Goal setting; celebrating achieved goals; if we’re struggling to reach a goal, let’s figure out how we can skew our journey towards reaching it.

6 Surround yourself with great people: You can’t grow a global company alone! You need experts in each field to actualize your vision and create a productive and healthy working environment.

KEEPING TRACK OF INTEREST

JERRY OUTLINED AN INDUSTRY FINANCIAL HEALTH CHECK.

“Some time after Covid, the Fed raised interest rates as a way to slow inflation in the United States, which sent our tech industry into a spiral. We saw companies like Twitter, Facebook, and Google laying off hundreds to thousands of people. In 2023, NBC News reported a further 0.25% rise in interest rates.

“This has been especially difficult for businesses, simply because a lot of them raised a lot of money at really high valuations in the last couple of years but right now are unable to get capital. Trying to navigate these patterns as the owner of a customer-focused business is tricky because although you need to raise your prices to keep on top of interest rates, you don’t want to lose clientele.

“Streamlining the way you work as a business owner allows you to better understand where you’re at financially. Using platforms like Schedulicity will streamline your bookings, payments, and marketing processes, letting you maximize the time you spend behind the chair, servicing as many clients as you need to stay afloat during tough times and thrive during the busy times.”

AND THEY WON’T ROAM WILD SET THEM

THE DIVERSE AND THOROUGH EDUCATION AND SUPPORT OFFERED BY FLOYD’S99 HELPS BARBERS CREATE A SUSTAINABLE CAREER, AS THEIR SKILLS CAN ADAPT TO THE CHANGING TRENDS, AND THEY CAN FEEL CONFIDENT WITH WHATEVER HAIR TYPES AND STYLES THAT COME INTO THEIR CHAIR.

We spoke to Patrick Butler, the Senior Director of Creative and Technical Education at Floyd’s 99 Barbershops to talk about how Floyd’s set their barbers up for success right from the get-go. He said: “As an employer, we see so many different experience levels of barbers coming into our shops. So, the cardinal rule is to never assume anything about anyone. Whether you just walked out of school a day ago, or you have been doing hair for 20 years, we make no assumptions, and we respect all levels of experience. In our education program, we make sure that we can level set, and assess each individual in their skills, and meet them where they are, not where we would assume they would be. This way, we can ensure that every single Floyd’s barber has the

solid foundations for success.”

Patrick said that a lot of barbers who are new to Floyd’s are surprised at the range of education in the curriculum. He said: “It really helps open new barbers up to see how barbering has evolved over the years and all the different shapes and lengths and services that a traditional barber may have never experienced, in many years of being in the industry. That’s why we never assume.”

Floyd’s 99 is so much more than a traditional barbershop. It is a place where no matter who you are, what you look like, and what kind of cut you want, you will be made to feel welcome and at home. Patrick said: “For 20 years, our tagline was Floyd’s for Men and Women. But recently, we changed that to ‘Floyd’s for Everyone’. We did do so to reflect our views outwardly and inwardly.

Outwardly, speaking directly to our clientele to say that we are for everyone, any hair type, any background, any age, any gender, it doesn’t matter. And inwardly, to our staff at Floyd’s, to say that we are standing behind each one of you, no matter who you are, and what your strengths and passions are, we want you to be the best version of yourself, because we feel that you are more confident when you can express yourself authentically. By speaking to everyone, it is a direct message saying, Whoever you are, or whoever you want to be, we will help you get there and feel best about yourself in the process.”

This commitment to diversity and inclusion runs deep in Floyd’s ethos and day-to-day workings, from the education they provide staff, to the products they carry, and the services they offer. Patrick said: “We have found that it has helped our staff grow even more behind the chair because they’re not limiting themselves to a certain category. They are able to open themselves up, which means we are giving barbers a chance to grow in their career, earn more, and feel better about their future.”

One example of the ways Floyd’s 99 is broadening the horizons for its staff is by embracing color within the barbershop setting, as you can see in their latest collection with Paul Mitchell. Patrick said: “We felt strongly about focusing on color in the collection simply because we have seen the rise of color opportunities in the barbershop. Color is not something you often find in a barbershop, and if you do, it tends to be more focused on grey blending services. However, we have seen the recent acceptance

Photography// Floyd’s 99

“WE HAVE SEEN THE RECENT ACCEPTANCE OF COLOR IN THE WORKPLACE, AND A COMPLETE GENERATIONAL SHIFT TOWARDS BEING MORE ADVENTUROUS WITH COLOR AND STYLES. INSTEAD OF FIGHTING THAT, AT FLOYD’S 99, WE WANT TO EMBRACE THAT, AND ENCOURAGE OUR BARBERS TO GET CREATIVE, EXPERIMENT WITH VIVIDS, AND HAVE FUN WITH COLOR.”

of color in the workplace, and a complete generational shift towards being more adventurous with color and styles. Instead of fighting that, at Floyd’s 99, we want to embrace that, and encourage our barbers to get creative, experiment with vivids, and have fun with color.”

Floyd’s 99 has partnered with Paul Mitchell, the featured color brand found on the back bars of Floyd’s across the country. Patrick said: “What is really exciting is that they’ve offered some new products into these categories as well. For example, they have a great new blending color, called Color 10. It offers a variety of ranges that are so much more natural. They also have some new lightening products, including the Bond RX lightener and the bond treatment system that goes with it to protect the integrity of the hair. So, not only are we teaching our barbers to be creative with

color, but also how to maintain hair health and avoid damage.”

By embracing diversity and challenging barbers to continuously expand their skillset, Patrick explained that not only are barbers happier and more creative, getting to cater to a diverse clientele, but they also tend to stick around longer. “If one thing is true about the hair industry, it’s that stylists and barbers need to be continually fed and inspired. Education needs to be a mainstay in your diet. When we are allowed to be pushed out of our comfort level, while growing our skills in the process, that’s when we grow. Inspiration and growth increase retention. At Floyd’s, when barbers know they have constant access to education and are given room to grow, they like to stick around.”

MY SUPPLY GUY:

MORE THAN JUST A SUPPLIER

WE SPOKE TO THREE INCREDIBLE BARBERSHOPS TO FIND OUT HOW MY SUPPLY GUY HELPS THEM STREAMLINE THEIR SUPPLY CHAINS AND ENHANCE THEIR WORK WITH THE TOP-QUALITY PRODUCTS THAT FOUNDER REY SCOTT PROVIDES – AND THE BENEFITS GO FAR BEYOND THE CHAIR…

LUCKY SPOT BARBERSHOP

IN 2019, LUCKY SPOT BARBERSHOP OWNER, SHAUN ‘LUCKY’ CORBETT, OPENED THE FIRST AFRICAN AMERICAN-OWNED AND OPERATED BARBERSHOP IN WALMART STORES ACROSS THE COUNTRY. NOW, THEY’VE FRANCHISED ACROSS THE STATES AND USE MY SUPPLY GUY FOR ALL OF THEIR QUALITY GOODS REQUIREMENTS.

The team specializes in cutting and styling the latest trends, offering services in hair restoration, skin maintenance, and more. Partnering with Walmart, Shaun told us, gave him the empowerment he needed to think big. He continued: “The empowerment comes in many forms. For me, it allows me to be able to provide ownership opportunities and empower others. It gives me the confidence and drive to shift the barber industry for the better by offering growth options outside of just being behind the chair.”

Very much a similarity with Rey himself, the team at Lucky Spot have been hosting annual community events such as its Back to School Weekend, Community Turkey Drive, and community tutoring events. “We enjoy working with My Supply Guy because Rey is very in-tune with the industry and the trends. My Supply Guy is very involved within the community and always keeps us abreast on upcoming events, possible partnerships, etc. His team supplies all of our Georgia locations with its supplies, working very diligently and efficiently.”

My Supply Guy and Luck Spot have a shared passion for providing services and assistance that goes beyond the chair. That passion forms a key part of each brand's identity - and is a sure-

“WE ENJOY WORKING WITH MY SUPPLY GUY BECAUSE REY IS VERY IN-TUNE WITH THE INDUSTRY AND THE TRENDS. MY SUPPLY GUY IS VERY INVOLVED WITH THE COMMUNITY AND ALWAYS KEEPS US ABREAST OF UPCOMING EVENTS, POSSIBLE PARTNERSHIPS, ETC. HIS TEAM SUPPLIES ALL OUR GEORGIA LOCATIONS WITH THEIR SUPPLIES, WORKING VERY DILIGENTLY AND EFFICIENTLY.”

fire way to build respect within their barbering community whilst ensuring repeat visits.

“We have been able to support over 12,000 families with our events,” Shaun told us. “Each of the community events are free and open to all that are able to attend.”

How has partnering with Walmart helped the company expand and evolve, without veering away from the true ethos of the company? “Since partnering with Walmart, we have been able to expand and expose other markets to our culture and opportunities. Our culture sets the tone for our clients to have a great and relaxing experience in our shops. Walmart is one of the largest retailers on the planet and we are grateful to be able to have the manpower to take advantage of such a wonderful chance in business."

There is something that Shaun wants you to know: “We would like the BarberEVO readers to know that we have opportunities for all barbers that are interested in working with us. We are working very hard at changing the face of barbering and we're very unapologetic about that. We have created real career opportunities for those that are serious about the craft and that want it.”

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Find Lucky Spot Barbershop on Instagram as @luckyspotbarbershop

NO GREASE!

THIS IS NOT YOUR ORDINARY BARBERSHOP! BUFFALO NY NATIVES DAMIAN AND JERMAINE JOHNSON CREATED AND LAUNCHED NO GREASE, INC. IN JUNE 1997, DEDICATED TO CREATING A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS MODEL THAT ALLOWS FOR CONTINUAL EXPANSION IN EDUCATION AS WELL AS FRANCHISING. THIS IS WHY THEY LOVE MY SUPPLY GUY.

The company’s mission is to provide consumers with the opportunity to have multiple grooming needs met in one location with unequalled quality and fast service. Damian said: "In the '90s, most barbershops didn't know how to market themselves; they didn't know branding, they had no real business plan or execution; and were just going off of talent or keeping up a legacy. We saw an opportunity to bring in a real business model with a structure that would lead us to financial success, offer value to the client, and enrich the barbers working experience.”

After six years of client-based success, No Grease launched their barber school. "Once we opened up the barber school, we started to expand at a much faster pace, because now we had the type of talent we needed to be consistent with the growth of the brand.

“We're always looking for people who are motivated to not only master the craft of cutting hair, but actually embrace our professionalism and commit to our traditions of servicing the clients, the community, and to continual education and mentorship."

Why are shopping malls a great space to build a franchise? Damian said: "One of our long-term models was to expand into shopping malls. They work very well because of the diversity of the community, the foot traffic, and some of the requirements for the barbershop and services is held at a higher standard. You have to be properly vetted before a mall or other company like that puts trust in you to operate on their premises and know that you will uphold the health and conduct standards. This accountability instantly puts us

The No Grease team are always open to franchise opportunities and team growth, so reach out! Find them at nogrease.com and @nogreasebarbershop on Instagram.

“ THE RELATIONSHIP WITH REY WAS VERY ORGANIC. HE IS VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE OF THE INDUSTRY AND THAT'S ALWAYS SOMETHING I RESPECT – ESPECIALLY BECAUSE HE DOESN’T HAVE A HISTORY IN THE BARBERING INDUSTRY – HE COMES FROM AN ENTREPRENEURIAL BACKGROUND SO HE OFFERS A UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON HOW TO CONDUCT BUSINESS. YOU GET THE BEST FROM REY EVERY TIME.”

miles ahead of other shops in terms of excellence." How did the team ensure that you were maintaining the core values of the business? "We started to franchise in 2017, so we had 20 years of coming up with a plan and a solid business structure that we felt comfortable enough that we could sell and scale. So, we did 20 years of research and learning the pros and cons of how we were going to expand the business. We felt comfortable with selling the actual brand and infrastructure."

The team at No Grease keep themselves to high standards and so expect the same quality of work from the suppliers they work with. That's why My Supply Guy is there go-to for product and tool supplies across their shops. Here's more: "The relationship with Rey was very organic. He is very knowledgeable of the industry and that's always something I respect – especially because he doesn’t have a history in the barbering industry – he comes from an entrepreneurial background so he offers a unique perspective on how to conduct business. “He is all about community and helping others, which is something we're passionate about as well. At No Grease, we create careers, not just jobs – we offer continual education and career development for our barbers. Our students can go from barber to manager, to shop owner, to educator, to investor… the opportunities are endless."

What are the keys to creating a sustainable business? "Having a solid vision, building a strong team of people around you, and then having a structure that gives barbers the platform to do their best work." 

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FADEOLOGIST

JOHN H F DOUGLAS III IS FOUNDER OF FADEOLOGIST AND OF THE FADEOLOGIST FOUNDATION. HE TELLS US HOW TECH ENHANCES HIS BUSINESS, WHY IT’S IMPORTANT TO HAVE A BIGGER PICTURE MINDSET, AND WHY MY SUPPLY GUY IS HIS KEY TO BRINGING THE BEST QUALITY TOOLS AND PRODUCTS INTO HIS SHOP.

The FADEOLOGIST business motto is "Haircuts to a Science." Their mission is to empower individuals with confidence and style through exceptional grooming service. John said: "We are dedicated to providing the highest quality haircuts that are meticulous and always on point. We don’t just create great haircuts, we create unforgettable experiences that leave a lasting impression on our client's lives."

Over the years, FADEOLOGIST has become a major pillar in the Atlanta Metro Area by providing endless and essential support for their community through volunteer haircut services for men and women at homeless shelters, prison inmates, and for those who are experiencing significant trials and tribulations.

John continued: “FADEOLOGIST has an unwritten policy that we won’t turn down anyone despite the lack of finances. We pride ourselves in creating an

environment that is conducive for all people to walk in; male, female, black, white... Regardless of what your race or gender is, we should just keep an environment that welcomes and empowers everyone.

"We pride ourselves in being more techbased than the competitors in our area. We've always been the most diverse barbershop in our community and have been using mobile barbering apps for the past 15+ years. We keep everything crisp and clean, from our booking and payment processes to the shaves and cuts we execute, to the cleanliness of our environment.”

FADEOLOGIST was voted Best Barbershop in the Nation (Steve Harvey Neighborhood Award) twice and has been voted Best Barbershop in Gwinnett County for the last eight years. “I never thought my hobby of haircutting would turn into a national brand with three barbershops. We're a household name already, but we have so much more to give. "FADEOLOGIST is about more than just providing chairs and haircuts; it's about support for people.

"We've been giving back since day one," he told us.

"Our biggest investment is in our youth. We give young people an opportunity to be around positive leadership and support in our shop every Saturday for haircuts, as part of my non-profit, the FADEOLOGIST FOUNDATION, which strives to equip kids with the tools of life."

What does John think is the key to maintaining a successful business for 28+ years? "Dependability. It’s not about our ability, it’s about our availability. We don't rush appointments and we pride ourselves on being there for our clients.”

Creating a safe atmosphere means being a great listener as well as a great barber; it means being deliberate about how you work and what tools you

use. John trusts My Supply Guy to give him and his teams the tools and products they need. "We've had several people over the last couple of decades attempt to do what Rey has done. And like us, Rey has completely separated himself from every other mobile supply guy.

"Before, guys would come up in their cars, and everything would just be thrown into the trunk or backseat. They would take 10 minutes trying to find a product because things were thrown everywhere! But Rey is always organized. Everything is always in order so your time is minimized so that you can maximize your time with your clients. A mobile store on wheels –that blew me away," he laughed.

"Rey has been the most consistent supplier that we've ever had. Every minute is valuable when Rey comes by. He always leaves words of inspiration and motivation after giving you the equipment and products we need to do our jobs well. He'll come in and say hey and speak to our clients and barbers, which shows his great rapport with people. You can't duplicate his personality!" •

“EVERY MINUTE IS VALUABLE WHEN REY COMES BY. HE ALWAYS LEAVES WORD OF INSPIRATION AND MOTIVATION AFTER GIVING YOU THE EQUIPMENT AND PRODUCTS WE NEED TO DO OUR JOBS WELL. HE'LL COME IN AND SAY HEY AND SPEAK TO OUR CLIENTS AND BARBERS, WHICH SHOWS HIS GREAT RAPPORT WITH PEOPLE. YOU CAN'T DUPLICATE HIS PERSONALITY!”

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Find Fadeologist at fadeologist.com and @fadeologist on Instagram.

MY SUPPLY GUY IS PROUD TO BE YOUR #1 SOURCE FOR PROFESSIONAL BARBER & BEAUTY SUPPLIES.

Introducing Luster Beard Wash: a groundbreaking, time-saving solution for barbers. Cleanse beards directly at the chair with this low-sulfate formula, suitable for all skin types. It efficiently eliminates dirt, oil, and debris. Massage and agitate luster beard wash into the beard, then compress and wipe away with one hot towel. No more shampoo bowls required. Leaves no sticky residue behindAmplify your revenue and elevate the client experience. Upgrade your service and maximize your income today!

We understand the needs of the professionals to own the best tools so that they can build their craft and provide the best possible service to all their customers.

We are the only company here in Atlanta that offers not only a physical location for you to shop but a Mobile Service for those busy days when you cannot leave your station. Our fully stocked Mobile Units, covers over 15 metro Atlanta cities, 7 days a week.

PHOENIX Nitrile Examination Gloves

$16.99 - $75.00

Our brick-and-mortar is fully stocked and offers high-quality barber supply products and tools, which includes time-tested brands such as BaByliss, Andis, Gamma+/Stylecraft, Oster, and WAHL.

WWW.MYSUPPLYGUY.SHOP 3580 Breckinridge Blvd (Suite 101) Duluth, GA 30096, (770) 685-1840

BY TYRIK JACKSON

MINING YOUR BUSINESS

OUR COLUMNIST AND BUSINESS EXPERT TYRIK JACKSON LEADS YOU THROUGH THE FIVE KEY STEPS OF WRITING YOUR FINANCIAL PLAN. THIS ISN’T NECESSARILY ABOUT MAKING MONEY, IT’S ABOUT HOW TO MAKE YOUR MONEY WORK FOR YOU. HERE’S MORE…

1

THE VISION

The first step is envisioning where it is that you want to be. Most barbers and stylists are in this industry because we're creative. We don't live in an organized space, we live in a creative space, which means that often, we’re not really looking past the day or week in front of us. However, if you want to grow, you need to plan.

Your goals should be quantifiable and achievable with a clearly defined time frame. The SMART acronym helps with this.

• Specific: What is it that you want to accomplish?

• Measurable: How will you know once you’ve reached your goal?

• Achievable: Will you realistically be able to accomplish your goal?

• Relevant: Does your financial goal align with your values and other long-term objectives?

• Time-bound: When do you want to accomplish it?

THE BUDGET

As barbers and stylists, we know how to make the money, but significant financial growth is not about the money you make – it's about the money you keep.

Before you can set your future goals, you need to figure out where your finances currently stand. Creating a budget will give you a clear picture of how much money you have each pay period, what you’re spending it on, and what you have left over.

Itemizing spending into different categories, like utilities, restaurants, and travel, will quickly reveal where most of your money is going. That allows you to quickly rebalance your spending if you notice that you’re spending $300 per month on coffee, for example. You don’t need the newest

clipper every time a big brand releases a bigger, better model – and you don’t necessarily need to attend every event out there. These things cost money, so prioritize which elements you want to allocate some of your cashflow to.

Remember: If you’re currently just breaking even, you’ll need to find a way to either cut out some of your expenses or increase your income.

THE REVALUTATION

Financial planning isn’t a 'set it and forget it' process. You’ll need to monitor your financial plan regularly to ensure that you’re still on track and that it makes sense for your current goals. Over time, what’s important to you might change. Any number of life situations like the birth of a child, getting married, desire to buy a home, or getting a promotion will require revising your financial plans.

4 3 2

It's not about motivation – we're all motivated to save money; we're all motivated to build our book of business and develop an amazing clientele – but sometimes we don't feel like getting up. That’s why I say that achieving financial success is about discipline.

An athlete doesn't become elite because they're just talented – talent only gets them so far. They identify areas of weakness and work to fix them.

In a financial setting, once you identify the first area you need to apply discipline, you begin to notice other areas to channel that discipline. Eventually, it becomes part of your working culture to identify weaknesses, target them, and overcome them.

5 STEPS TO A WINNING FINANCIAL PLAN 5

From the barber's or stylist's perspective, you look at:

• Has my clientele increased?

• Am I saving more than I’m spending?

• Am I making significant profits?

• Can I see financial growth?

• Are there other areas that I wish to apply my new goals to, and channel the discipline I have built to achieve?

Tick the above off and then consider step four: where else can I put my money to make it build on its own?

THE INVESTMENT(S)

Investment is probably the hardest step, because there's sacrifices that need to be made. In theory, by this step, you've achieved your initial goals and reached financial security. However, once you start investing your money, you lose that safety blanket. Let's get into it...

Different kinds of investments have different risk profiles, expected returns, fees, and other details to keep in mind.

This is essential: you must invest some cash into finding a financial advisor or accountant that knows their craft inside out, and understands your goals. They’ll help you focus your investment so that every bit of money you invest has the potential to grow on its own.

Some popular investments include:

• Stocks, bonds, ETFs (exchange-traded funds) and mutual funds.

• Real estate.

• Cryptocurrencies.

• Building credit. Establishing good credit will position you to borrow other people's money for your investment purposes.

Remember that investment isn’t always financial either. Your time is your most valuable resource and asset, so be strategic about how much time and effort you’re putting into avenues that aren’t bringing any financial benefit.

THE END GOAL

By now, your money is working for you, giving you time to focus on new ventures and investment opportunities.

Everybody's perception of a successful financial plan is different. Success can come in the form of having millions in your pocket or it can manifest in managerial power, becoming an authority for education. It can also be as simple as enjoying life with your family, free of financial burden and worry. Taking stock and looking at your end goals – and if you have achieved them – is a good way to remind yourself that the hard work was worth it.

Tyrik is on Instagram as @iamtyrikjackson

PRICING, PAYMENTS & PROFIT

BY IVAN ZOOT

Solid financial plans for savings, investments and long term goals is the north star for your business. These plans guide decision making and keep you on track for your long-term future. Growth now and retirement later are all just targets along a route.

Your haircut price is the single most important financial decision you will ever make for your business. Make that decision with data and facts not with emotions. Here are my top tips for setting an initial haircut price for your business or instituting a haircut price increase.

You Do You – Your haircut price is not based on what the other guy charges. Your unique offering has unique value. Ignore the “the market” and the “the economy”. You are your own market and you create your own economy.

Know The Formula – Base your haircut price on simple math. The cost of doing a haircut plus the profit needed per haircut equals the minimum price you can charge for a haircut to cover your costs and deliver your profit. Far too many haircut pros ignore this basic business math.

Know When To Go Up – Your rate of occupancy (haircuts done divided by haircut capacity) determines when your business is healthy enough to sustain a haircut price increase. Do not use the calendar or what the other guy is doing. Your management of supply and demand is your guide to growing your business and your income. Remember, If you are too busy, you are too cheap

PAYMENT PROCESSING 101

Q: How can technology and payment systems make a barbershop owner's life easier?

A: Back in the day, all these functions were handled manually... with a pencil. Today, systems do all this work and free up a business person to put their energy into things that move the business forward.

Q:

What are the benefits of pushing payments / deposits online?

A: If you choose to automate these functions you get better record keeping, higher accuracy and easier reporting. The bottom line: you save time and money.

Q:

How can barbers make the payment process easier for their client?

A: Think Uber when it comes to payments. Click, click, done. Once a client and their payment information is in the system simple clicks complete transactions with easy and simplicity.

INCRESING YOUR PRICES

Know how much to go up – Generally a ten percent increase, when occupancy rates dictate, is a smart and safe percentage of increase. Using data, you can make these decisions with confidence.

Know how often to go up – Once again, your rate of occupancy is your guide. You go up when the numbers say you can, not the calendar or the competition. If you increase the price and occupancy holds you are running a healthy business. If occupancy falls off a bit just double down on your value proposition, take care of clients and watch occupancy recover. This ebb and flow based on price is how you manage client base and pricing for your entire career.

I am here to help haircut pros build business and manage their success. I wrote the book on haircut price increases. Get a copy today at ivanzoot.com. Reach out for support. Join my $100,000 Haircutter Academy for ongoing support.

Following is the basic formula for managing haircut pricing based on supply and demand.

1 Measure chair occupancy every week.

2 When occupancy holds above 80% for six consecutive weeks demand dictates that your business is healthy enough to implement a price increase.

3 Raise the price by 10%.

4 In theory, if 10% of your clients drop off, you are generating the same amount of money at lower occupancy, with air in your book, room for new referrals.

5 Double down on your business building efforts to build occupancy back up to the 80% threshold.

6 Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

This is the fourteenth book I have written but the only one I did not finish. Your job is to finish the book.

The book is filled with blank spaces for you to plug in your numbers from your business. Your numbers plug into the formulas of our industry. Work the formulas to make your best business decisions. Money decisions are not made with your gut, your heart or your head. They are made with a pencil and a calculator. They are made

with facts and data. Use a pencil so that next month and next year you can go back and update the numbers and rework the formulas.

The book will become a living, growing working tool to support your financial business decision making. This $25 book can support you for twenty five years.

Purchase at ivanzoot.com/product-page/theprofessional-haircutter-s-pricing-playbook

BARBEREVO COLUMNIST IVAN ZOOT TAKES YOU THROUGH THE INS AND OUTS OF PRICING AND PAYMENTS IN YOUR BARBERSHOP.

YOUR HAIRCUT PRICE IS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FINANCIAL DECISION YOU WILL EVER MAKE FOR YOUR BUSINESS. MAKE THAT DECISION WITH DATA AND FACTS NOT WITH EMOTIONS.

ESSENTIAL READ: THE PROFESSIONAL HAIRCUTTER'S PRICING PLAYBOOK

THE BUSINESS OF EDUCATION

DISNET RIVERON-PERDOMO AND DAIRO RIVERON LET US IN ON THE STORY BEHIND THE SPOT BARBER ACADEMY. ASIDE FROM PROVIDING STUDENTS WITH THE NECESSARY TRAINING FOR FLORIDA’S LAWS, WE WONDER, HOW DO THEY INSPIRE THE NEXT GENERATION OF BARBERS? HERE’S MORE…

How did the academy begin? CEO, Disnet explained: “The Spot Barber Academy came about after years of seeing and experiencing seasoned barbers’ exasperation around the gaps in practical skill and industry knowledge of what should be ‘qualified’ barbers – particularly around professionalism or diverse cutting styles.”

As such, the main mission is to provide a wellrounded education to people entering this field so that they are not only very capable, versatile barbers but also successful entrepreneurs. A major part of the industry today is moving from a behind-the-chair barber to a platform educator, brand ambassador, and/or barbershop owner – and if success reigns, it’s about franchising your shop. Entrepreneurial skills are an essential element of achieving these bigger goals and making the most of the benefits of expansion in any of the previous settings.

We wanted to know how Disnet and the team nurture this part of the people who sign up for The Spot Barber Academy. She said: “We bring in different guest speakers that have years of experience and success in this industry, as well as different walks of life – whether that be business owners, master barbers, franchisers, or product developers.”

The Academy also provides community engagement platforms that offer students different avenues to express their talents, share their achievements, ask questions, and network for the future. ”We encourage discourse between student and expert, from well-known barbers around the world to local successful business owners and barbers that our students can relate to and strive to be like once they graduate.”

We want a look behind the scenes… what does a program with The Spot Barber Academy look like? Disnet shared some insight: “Our program is a very indepth and interactive program! We do not just allow students to focus on knowing how to do a specific cut or style; we have all the career tools needed –professionalism, communication skills, customer service etiquette, business acumen, shears work, color, design, clippers, beard, waxing… Everything! Once they graduate, barbers can select which area they like best and will have the tools needed to succeed in this ever-changing and growing industry.”

The sister company, The Spot Barbershop, has been running for over 20 years. Branching into education two years ago was a long time coming – and something born of passion. We know that The Spot Barber Academy empowers students to go into whichever part of the industry they want,

but educating on home soil can help nurture home-grown talent that can also work in the Spot barbers, should they wish.

Disnet said: “Ready-made employees can come from within the academy and our own barbershops, which streamlines recruitment processes. Our well-rounded education – as mentioned – is the key to making sure that all of our students can perform just as well in another shop as they would our own.”

Education is for everyone – it doesn’t matter where they’re from; what matters is passion and dedication to learning. The academy believes in supporting those who need most, making sure education is accessible to everyone. She told us what kind of financial assistance they offer eligible students: “We have different payment plans – plans where they pay the school directly, scholarships, companies that lend them the money to study with different tiers of re-payment.”

What career opportunities are available for students after they qualify from the Spot Academy? “We have direct access to multiple MiamiDade County Barbershops, as well as partnerships that allow for us to help our students with job placement after graduation.”

Disnet has a message to send to the next generation of barbers: “The men’s grooming industry makes billions of dollars annually and it will only continue to grow. This industry provides a beautiful opportunity for you to not only enhance your creative skills, people skills, and business skills, but also set you up for success and financial stability.

“At The Spot Barber Academy we provide you with ALL the tools necessary to succeed and we are with you every step of the way. Our program is like no other!”

Find The Spot Barber Academy on Instagram @thespotbarberacademy // thespotbarberacademy.com

“AT THE SPOT BARBER ACADEMY WE PROVIDE YOU WITH ALL THE TOOLS NECESSARY TO SUCCEED AND WE ARE WITH YOU EVERY STEP OF THE WAY. OUR PROGRAM IS LIKE NO OTHER!”

THE SCENT OF SUCCESS

BLACK THE SALON FOUNDER JEPH WRIGHT SAT DOWN WITH US TO CHAT ALL THINGS RETAIL – WHY TO STOCK IT, HOW TO

SALE

There’s no feeling quite like watching your client close their eyes during a service – it’s the sign of ultimate comfort and satisfaction. Choosing the right products can transform their appointment from a simple service into a luxury experience. Jeph told us the key to achieving this transformation is scent. That’s why he uses 18.21 Man Made and stocks the products on his retail shelves.

Let’s paint the picture: you’re a client walking into the sleek, modern interior of Black the Salon and notice the shimmer of a unique golden bottle. As you walk over to the styling chair, you wonder, is that a bottle of whisky?

You watch as your stylist creates a hair masterpiece – wait, what’s that glorious scent of sweet saffron and smokey musk? You realize it’s the whisky bottle you saw on the shelves, but it’s not whisky, it’s 18.21’s Original Sweet Tobacco Man Made Wash. The treatment ends, you’re looking and feeling incredible, and ask yourself, ‘How can I recreate this at home?’ LOOK! Jeph and his team are retailing the full 18.21 range so you can feel that rich freshness every single day. Glorious.

“Everything about this brand screams Country Gentleman,” Jeph said when we asked him why he loves 18.21. “Every product is super sophisticated

in its design as well as in the formulations, the fragrances, and how they can be used in the hair. There truly isn’t any other brand like 18.21.”

As an owner of a multi-services salon (his team have skills in everything from color and cuts to skinfades and close shaves), Jeph told us that his use of solely 18.21 for typically male styles and cuts is as much a tactic as it is a creative choice. He knows that products that have a masculine smell and look like “things you’d find in your garage” will draw men into his hybrid space. “What’s special about 18.21 is that they're professional standard enough for me to use during treatments but stylish and versatile enough for me to sell as retail. We offer the entire range and they sell like hotcakes because they’re sleek and extremely cool, so don’t look out of place in a space where all genders are welcome,” he said.

The scents are almost hypnotic, Jeph told us, and that’s why he’s able to sustain a steady channel of added revenue for his business. How does her recommend upselling retail? He revealed: “Just use the products in the treatment, tell the client what you’re doing with them, and then offer them at the end of the service. Easy. If they see you're passionate about a product, they will feel it too.”

What products does Jeph use and sell the most of? “We love using the Sweet Tobacco Paste to add smooth and refined texture while controlling frizz. The Premium Hairspray is great as well because it gives guys an easy way to style and add hold to their hair without having to learn how to properly use a clay or pomade. The Hair Styling Clay and Hair Styling Pomade are excellent for using in the shop, however some guys just don’t know how to use those kinds of products, so the hairspray is a great alternative for lower maintenance styling.”

Jeph continued: “It’s interesting how much more willing guys are to buy a styling or haircare product from the salon if it looks like an oil can! I’ve got guys who would never have bought products before but buy 18.21 retail on a regular basis just because it’s so cool. It becomes a talking point on your shelf at home as well – these aren’t just products, they’re experiences.

“No word of a lie, I had someone break in and all they took was one of the 18.21 Man Made Washes – I think he thought it was a bottle of expensive whisky… If that’s not a sign of a premium product, I don’t know what is!”

Black the Salon are on Instagram as @blackthesalon and you can find 18.21 Man Made as @1821manmade

UPSELL IT, AND WHY 18.21 MADE MADE IS HIS GO-TO

FOR MEN’S SERVICES IN HIS SALON.

18.21 PRODUCTS ARE SPECIAL BECAUSE THEY'RE PROFESSIONAL STANDARD FOR ME TO USE DURING TREATMENTS BUT STYLISH AND VERSATILE ENOUGH TO SELL AS RETAIL. THEY SELL LIKE HOTCAKES.”

"DO YOU BRING EDUCATORS INTO YOUR LOCATIONS?

WHO IS THE BEST YOU’VE HAD?"

BARBERS ASK V AND V ANSWERS

HAPPENING IN HOUSTON

Absolutely, education plays a pivotal role at V's Barbershop. We collaborate with some of the best barbers in the industry to offer specialized training. But I believe the best educators are right here within our walls and that’s our VETs (or V’s Elite Team). These barbers typically have five to 20 years of experience and many more in practice. They embody the classic barbershop experience. Their expertise offers an exclusive educational experience and is only available to those who are part of the V’s family.

"HOW DO YOU BALANCE SELLING YOUR OWN PRODUCTS VERSUS OTHER BRANDS? ISN'T IT BETTER TO FOCUS ON YOUR OWN BRAND?"

It’s certainly not lost on us that touting your “own brand” is not only more profitable, as your margins are higher, but it also puts your brand inside your patron’s bathroom. However, we also know that there are so many grooming products available in the market right now, including products we would never attempt to make, that are just excellent. We have always had the mindset of wanting to curate the “best of the best'' for our patrons and allow them to choose. This is also why we have

established an e-commerce platform. Whether your local shop doesn’t have it or you simply want to try something new, you can now find it online (vbarber.shop). We will attempt to provide education, and guidance for the type of hair you have. With men’s grooming products being one of the largest and fastest growing segments in the world, we figure it’s our duty to share the best with the rest!

V's Barbershop has become a cornerstone in Houston's barbering landscape, boasting five locations owned by two franchise groups. Since the first store opened in River Oaks in 2010, V's has been at the forefront of the men's barbering scene in Houston. That inaugural shop recently underwent an ownership transition and renovations, yet still maintains stellar ratings and reviews.

Last year marked a pivotal moment for V's in Houston. The market, including the newest shops in Katy Elyson and Katy Reserve, experienced a resurgence – largely due to the close business relationship between the two sets of franchise groups. Their collaboration has enabled shared marketing efforts, idea exchanges, and resource pooling, setting a positive trajectory for the brand. Both franchise groups acquired older shops and got to work updating them to meet V’s high standards. During this phase, V’s sent an Elite Barber to provide training and education for the barbers in these shops.

The owners bring a youthful, innovative approach to the business. They excel in social media engagement, and one ownership group is a family affair−comprising a mom, dad, and three sons. Their collective vision and creativity promise a bright future for V's Barbershop in Houston.

BY COREY GRAY AND TONY STUART

THE HAIRDUSTRY – YOUR DAY OFF PODCAST OFFERS HAIR PROFESSIONALS THE CHANCE TO KICK BACK AND LISTEN TO THE ADVICE AND BACKSTORY OF MANY OF THE INDUSTRY’S GREATEST NAMES AND ALSO THE NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK – EACH ONE HELPING TO MAKE THE HAIR INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE… AS HOSTS COREY GRAY AND TONY STUART SAYS, ONE PODCAST AT A TIME.

At the age of 19, Mari De Monte ventured to New York City with a fervent desire for a creative career that she could shape with her own hands. From the moment she set foot on Manhattan soil, her purpose was clear. Similar to many others in the hair industry, Mari didn't find college to be a perfect fit. "I attended for just one semester, majoring in acting, but I was drawn to the allure of a big city."

Her path led her to cosmetology school, where she discovered her passion: hair cutting. Balayage and intricate coloring techniques didn't interest her; for Mari, cutting hair was an art form, both creative and sculptural. Having both cosmetology and barbering licenses proved fortunate, granting her the opportunity to assist renowned men's hairstylist Marcel Vivo for eight years.

Mari reflected on how the perception of barbering has shifted over the years. She recalls the stereotype of the old-school Italian barber, but now realizes the newfound coolness and creativity within the field. The barbering scene has transformed dramatically from its dormant state in the nineties, thanks largely to the influence of social media. Barbers have become stars in their own right, with distinct aesthetics and stories. Instagram has democratized access to these artists, making their work accessible to anyone. This transformation has extended to artistic expression, with barbers experimenting in areas like color, breaking free from traditional confines. The hair industry has shattered longstanding barriers, expanding possibilities beyond expectations.

Taking the Craft to the City

Mari's journey started as an assistant to high-end men's hairstylist Marcel Vivo. Her decision to be an assistant for a significant period was rooted in her desire to develop her skills before taking on her clientele. This four-year stint provided invaluable lessons in customer service, respect, and luxury. Being an assistant equipped Mari with insights into pricing her services, striking the balance between skillset and hospitality. She discovered that clients seeking premium hair services were drawn to the atmosphere of the shop, which acted as a sanctuary for them. This fusion of traditional barbershop aesthetics with luxury created an unforgettable experience.

THE JOURNEY OF MARI DE MONTE, Season 3, Episode 85 of Hairdustry’s Your Day Off podcast showcases the story of hairdresser-turned-barber, Mari De Monte (@mdm_grooming). Here’s a glimpse into her story.

Creating Her Own Space

Mari embarked on opening her own studio, driven by her desire for greater independence and community engagement. This venture also aligned with her aspiration to educate others in the industry. Transitioning to a studio allowed her to craft her own experience, even though the concept was less common in larger cities.

Cultivating a Loyal Following

Amidst the pandemic's impact on the industry, Mari's focus on building a dedicated fan base remained steadfast. She acknowledges her privilege in maintaining her business and attracting a loyal following even during challenging times. This base offers stability and support that extends beyond typical clientele relationships. The process of creating a fan base relies on understanding fan philosophy. Mari recommends resources like "Raving Fans" and experts like Andrew Daz to shape this philosophy. While technical expertise matters, the loyalty of fans is rooted in the experience and connection they share with the stylist.

Defining Success

Mari's definition of success transcends financial gains. It's not just about figures but about walking into her studio, seeing a fully booked schedule, and recognizing that each client is someone she genuinely enjoys. Fulfillment, rather than mere success, is the ultimate goal. Efficiency becomes a driving factor in her business model. Mari highlights that maintaining existing clientele is more cost-effective than constantly seeking new clients. A balance between creating a rewarding experience and building a loyal customer base is crucial.

Embracing diversity the hair industry boasts a rich tapestry of individuals from diverse backgrounds, each contributing to the industry's resilience and creativity. Technological advancements have streamlined operations, making tasks like online booking, payment collection, and customer interaction more efficient. Tools like Schedulicity simplify the process, offering accessible solutions even for those less familiar with technology.

Connecting with Mari de Monte

For those interested in connecting with Mari, she welcomes inquiries and visits to her studio, MDM Grooming. Her open-door policy invites anyone to learn more about her journey and the industry.

Photography// @mari.demonte

IT'S NOT JUST ABOUT FIGURES BUT ABOUT WALKING INTO HER STUDIO, SEEING A FULLY BOOKED SCHEDULE, AND RECOGNIZING THAT EACH CLIENT IS SOMEONE SHE GENUINELY ENJOYS. FULFILLMENT, RATHER THAN MERE SUCCESS, IS THE ULTIMATE GOAL.

FACIAL Services

BARBERS ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR WAYS TO ENRICH THEIR SERVICE LISTS AND BRING ADDED VALUE TO THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE. WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO INJECT LIFE INTO YOUR SHOP? FACIAL SERVICES! WE SPEAK TO EXPERTS TO FIND OUT WHY ADDING BEARDCARE, SKINCARE, AND SHAVING TREATMENTS ARE A GREAT WAY TO BUILD YOUR SKILLSET, ATTRACT MORE CLIENTS, AND BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE.

Photography //

David Bucovy Architect

QUALITY Curating

WE SPOKE TO RICHARD MARSHALL TO FIND OUT HOW PALL MALL BARBERS HAS EVOLVED OVER THE LAST 127 YEARS, EXPANDING FROM A LONDON-BASED BARBERSHOP INTO A GLOBAL BRAND. HE BELIEVES HIS BESPOKE FACIAL CARE SERVICES AND BRITISH HERITAGE ARE WHAT BRING INCREDIBLE SUCCESS TO HIS NYC SHOP.

A contemporary approach to traditional barbering is what rallies Pall Mall Barbers’ global tally of over 65K of client appointments per year. “Our relentless dedication to deepening our knowledge of techniques and traditions across the globe have given birth to a world class suite of products and services that combine cutting edge London styling with the very best global male grooming techniques,” Richard said.

This focused approach made Pall Mall Barbers the largest and most awarded independent barbering business in London with over 60 haircutting seats and 23 award-winning products. Pall Mall Barbers have eight flagships in the UK and an iconic New York City shop in the heart of the Rockefeller Plaza. “Being next to the iconic NBC Today Show building brings in some famous faces too,” Richard revealed. 

Shop Photography// Rockefeller Center

Photography // Vera Bardo

Pall Mall Barbers is now listed as one of the best places in New York City for shaving and facial services. “My goal has always been to offer modern services, products, and training in a classy traditional setting, as well as using in-shop software to make sure our day-to-day business runs smoothly.” The brand’s British heritage has become their USP. “From my experience, the biggest difference between American and UK barbers is that that they focus on fades, or shaves or beards. In the US, you’re a barber or a cosmetologist, but the UK focuses on building a mix of both. I think my clients appreciate this well-rounded skillset – they know that they can ask for anything in my chair and get it done right.” The novelty of the British image is pretty useful too, apparently: “We’ve featured in TV multiple times and in 2019, had the pleasure

of working with HRH Prince William – people love that!” What makes the Pall Mall Barbers shave service so unique? Richard explained: “We don’t compete or compare ourselves to anyone else. We operate in our own lane, pave ways for our own trends and innovations, and compete with our own standards so that our services are entirely unique to the Pall Mall Barbers brand.”

Running a business on both sides of the Atlantic is no easy feat. How does Richard ensure that his barbers in NYC work to the same standards, practices, and values as the culture he worked hard to curate in his London barbershops? He revealed: “Training, training, training! Leadership is an important skill and one that I had to master when I decided to move from cutting hair day-today to leading teams in different cultures. It has

had its challenges, but for NYC, I just spent lots of time in in the city to really understand how the public operate, how the licenses work, and what the culture is in terms of service – every New York minute counts, so swiftness is a huge bonus for our NYC clients. Embracing this challenge, though, is the key to levelling up your business –don’t be afraid of change, be excited by it.”

Part of running a privately-owned barbershop business is finding effective ways to automize business processes so that the barbershop owner and barbers have more time to spend behind the chair and in strategizing further growth. We wanted to know what comms and booking software Richard uses. Fresha, was his answer. “10 years ago, I had a vision to move from paper processing to online bookings and digital data analysis that allows me to operate my business from anywhere in the world.

“I upgraded our booking and management software to Fresha because they have teams that actually listen to us and keep the business owner at the heart of what they do, optimizing the management process by innovating the bookings and payments process.

“I’m very impressed with the user interface – it’s so easy for our clients to use and the access that barbers have to their own schedules for the day. Everyone being on the same page means that the shop can run smoothly every day.

“We have used multiple platforms over the last decade, and I would say Fresha is the best in class. Meeting William, the CEO, and listening to his vision for his company made me realise that their global mindset matches my own. Fresha is my new secret weapon for facilitating overseas management, which ultimately makes global franchising possible. It’s not so secret anymore! If you’re looking for a service, this is your answer!” •

I UPGRADED OUR BOOKING AND MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE TO FRESHA BECAUSE THEY HAVE TEAMS THAT ACTUALLY LISTEN TO US AND KEEP THE BUSINESS OWNER AT THE HEART OF WHAT THEY DO, OPTIMIZING THE MANAGEMENT PROCESS BY INNOVATING THE BOOKINGS AND PAYMENTS PROCESS.

Photography // Vera Bardo

Photography // Rockefeller Center

OPTIMIZE YOUR BOOKINGS with Fresha

Why Pall Mall Barbers and over 100,000+ businesses worldwide use Fresha for their bookings.

New research shows that business owners using Fresha have boosted their occupancy by up to 44%, thanks to Fresha’s newly optimized feature, which reduces calendar gaps. With Fresha, YOU are in control of your time.

The new system intelligently prevents gaps between appointments, ensuring back-to-back bookings – ideal for fitting in as many clients as possible in the busy Pall Mall Barbers NYC location. It’s a simple yet powerful way for beauty and wellness businesses to maximize efficiency and create more availability every day.

Powered by an algorithm built from scratch by Fresha’s engineers, the smart scheduling feature helps businesses earn more every day without costing them anything. Seamlessly integrating with the rest of Fresha’s appointment management tools, the new feature:

• Takes zero effort to use - users can switch it on with a single click.

• Gives users full control - they have the ability to automatically reduce calendar gaps based on their schedule, or eliminate them completely.

• Optimises bookings from all sourcesincluding bookings through a business’s website, Google Search and Maps, social media, or the Fresha marketplace.

ULTIMATE CONTROL WITH FRESHA

How Richard uses Fresha to stay at the top of the leaderboard.

1 FRESHA PROFILE

“This allows thousands of potential new clients to search for the services we provide and book. I can personalize our profile with our branding, upload photos of the shop, and show off our amazing reviews.”

2 MARKETING TOOLS

“I use Fresha's online marketing tools to reach out to potential clients and promote Pall Mall Barbers barbers. I can stay engaged with my clients and update them on promotions and services.”

3 BOOK NOW BUTTONS

“We have a ‘book now’ button on our social media that links to our Fresha marketplace, so clients can book straight from our channels. It's easy and accessible for our clients and it seamlessly fills our calendar.”

4 AUTO-COMMUNICATION

“I've set up automated text messaging that sends my clients ‘thank you’ texts and asks them to leave a review. This helps us maintain our reputation online and provides visibility on Google so that more people can find us.”

5 YOUR BEST PERFORMERS

“Fresha's reporting helps me understand what services are popular, it gives me a view of team performance, and it helps me manage our inventory. This, in turn, helps me make important business decisions about our service menu and prices, staffing, and our product line to keep customers happy.”

“WE HAVE USED MULTIPLE PLATFORMS OVER THE LAST DECADE, AND I WOULD SAY FRESHA IS THE BEST IN CLASS.

Photography// David Bucovy Architect & Fresha

Add a Little

LUXE

WHERE IS THE TOP SPOT FOR A LITTLE R&R IN LAS VEGAS? H14 CLUB ARTIST AND NEWLY ANNOUNCED JRL USA EDUCATOR, ALLIE BUSSA’S PRIVATE STUDIO IS A HUB FOR EXCLUSIVE CLIENTELE TO RECEIVE HIGHQUALITY BEARD AND SHAVING SERVICES, AS WELL AS TOP-CLASS HAIRCUTS.

Allie is known not only for her creative cuts and sharp fades but also for luxurious and thoughtfully executed shaving and grooming services. I asked Allie why she believes these services are worth including in your menu, and not underestimating. She said: “It’s important to not overlook these services because not only can they give you a big boost to your revenue, but they also give your clients that little bit of extra luxury that they may not otherwise get to experience.

“I think as women, we know what it is like to be pampered and the importance of taking time out for ‘self-care’. But this is something a lot of men have never experienced in their life. So, that is what I strive for, to give my clients that opportunity to fully relax and be taken care of.” Sanitation is also an important element of facial services that Allie wanted to highlight. She said: “Since my start in the barbering industry, I have been shocked at the number of people I have seen reusing blades. It is essential to change out your blade between every service and disinfect your handle. I also put a towel down on the headrest, so there is no chance of crosscontamination between clients.”

Part of offering that relaxing and comforting treatment is ensuring that you are taking proper care of your client’s skin and hair health. Allie said: “The client’s safety is your number one priority. You want to make sure that anytime you are bringing a razor to a client’s skin, you have completed a

“I AM A REALLY BIG FAN OF H14’S GROOMING PRODUCTS, INCLUDING THEIR H14 PREP CUT & SHAVE TONIC, SHAVE GEL, AND WHISKY WATER AFTER SHAVE MAN-SPLASH. ALL OF THE FRAGRANCES ARE NICE BUT GENTLE, SO THEY ARE GREAT ON ALL SKIN TYPES AND DON’T CAUSE

proper consultation and preparation beforehand, to ensure you aren’t going to irritate the skin. Careful consideration around the products and different skin types is essential, as, for example, if your client has acne-prone skin, you’ll want to avoid oily products. It’s important to have a good understanding of the ingredients in your products and whether your clients have any sensitivities or allergies.”

This is what drew Allie to work with H14 Club products. She said: “Coming from the beauty side of the industry, I was more familiar with working with high-quality products. But when I got into barbering, I felt the standards for product ranges were generally a bit lower. But when I first was introduced to the H14 products, I was intrigued by the clean, sleek, and

upscale packaging. The products themselves are of great quality, and their range is diverse too. I like that you can cocktail and intermix the products to get whatever effect you are looking for.

“I am a really big fan of H14’s grooming products, including their H14 Prep Cut & Shave Tonic, Shave Gel, and Whisky Water After Shave Man-Splash All of the fragrances are nice but gentle, so they are great on all skin types and don’t cause any irritation.

“One of my favorite products is the Prep Cut & Shave Tonic because it has so many purposes on both hair and the skin. I will use the Tonic to prep and pre-treat the skin to soften the follicle and hydrate the skin, and then I will also spray it on after the shave for its antibacterial qualities and to repair the moisture barrier in the skin.

“The shave gel is also a great product as it makes lining up quick and easy, making it perfect for beard grooming services. It is an all-in-one softening and moisturizing product that helps you glide through the hair smoothly without having to use a hot towel when your client just wants a quick beard touch-up.”

Allie is all about her JRL tools, especially during beard services. She said: “My go-to is the JRL Oynx Clipper, it is fantastic. I also love the 2020C Trimmer for edging up beards. JRL also has a tool they are working on right now that I am in love with, so stay tuned.”

ANY IRRITATION.”

Photography// Allie Bussa

JAMES ZAP KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT BEARDS. NOT ONLY DOES HE SPECIALIZE IN GROOMING AT DAPPER DEN BARBERSHOP, BUT HIS BEARD GROOMING VIDEOS HAVE MILLIONS OF VIEWS, NOT TO MENTION THAT HIS OWN BEARD WON BRONZE IN A NATIONAL BEARD COMPETITION. WE SPOKE TO JAMES ABOUT BEARD GROOMING, BEARD CULTURE, AND WHY BEARD OCTANE IS ONE OF HIS GO-TO BEARD BRANDS.

BEARD

Culture

To start off, we wanted to find out, what it actually means to be a ‘beard grooming specialist’. James said: “In my opinion, being a beard grooming specialist is understanding how to shape a beard in a way that compliments the client's face. For example, if the client has a rounder face, I will want to make sure the sideburns are tighter than the chin area; the chin area would be boxed out or pointed. This way the beard elongates the face in a way that makes the person's face too round.

“I became a beard grooming specialist as soon as I picked up clippers. When I started working at the Dapper Den Barbershop, I noticed a need for people to have their beards trimmed and shaped. More importantly to have all of that done well. My boss and mentor, Jared Gelbert, showed me how to trim my first “big beard” and ever since then, I took the reins. I think that most clients who come in with a big beard do not know what they want to do with it. I think that they feel much better having a barber who is confident in his craft to make them look the best they ever have.

“Beards run in my family. My father, uncle, and brother have all had beards ever since I could remember. I always had an interest in making a

beard look the best it possibly could as well as experimenting with different types of facial hair styles (the Monkey-Tail style is fun, but you get a lot of stares).”

Beard grooming can be a total art that a lot of people don’t quite appreciate, but there is a fine line between a sexy lumberjack beard and looking like you’ve just come out of hibernation in the forest. As a champion beard grower himself, I asked James what he thinks the difference between a ‘good’ beard and a ‘bad’ beard is. He said: “A good and bad beard is completely subjective. However, after having seen and trimmed many beards, I think that the key is that the beard itself looks maintained. The first thing for me is trimmings. Little trims here and there can go a long way. You can still have a completely wild and outof-control beard, but if it is washed, brushed, trimmed, and well-kept, it will look amazing. Sometimes, a maintained beard means going to a professional and having them clean it up. That is where I come in and talk to them about their beard goals and what shape will complement their face the best.”

Photography// Beard Octane

One of the key ways to ensure your client’s beards are looking great is by using and stocking the right products in your shop, both to elevate the service experience and leave your client’s beard looking healthy and happy, long after they leave the shop.

For James, Beard Octane is always a winner. He said: “Beard Octane is an incredible company. Their owner and founder Joe Miller knows everything about his product and takes pride in helping the bearded people out there. We recently did a walkthrough of their shop, where we did a video that is currently on the Dapper Den Barbershop YouTube channel. As we were walking through, Joe was explaining the process of how everything is made, and you can see how he listens to the issues that people are having with their beards or facial hair. Whether it is combs, brushes, balms, oils, washes, or even supplements, Beard Octane has thoroughly thought out everything to help the beard community.”

What are James’ go-to Beard Octane products to use to elevate his beard services? “My favorite products to use in the barbershop are the ‘Buttas’ and the Balms. Too many of my clients come in and do not realize how dry their beard is. Most think that oil with help with that, however, oil is used to hydrate your face under the beard. With Beard Octane’s Butta, this will stay in the beard and make it feel hydrated and less dry. With the balm, I can use it to shape the beard more

and keep the ‘stragglers’ down.”

Part of a good service is also ensuring your clients leave the barbershop with the best products in hand to maintain their beard and ‘stache. James said: “My favorite product to send for use at home is the Beard Octane Solid Beard Wash Bar. It is perfectly pH balanced so it will not dry out your beard and using it is unbelievably quick and easy. Two or three swipes in the beard and you get a nice lather. My beard has never felt cleaner.”

With the holiday period approaching, it might be time to start thinking about the additional products you can bring into your shop, as shaving and beard maintenance products are always at the top of the list when you Google: “What to buy for the man in my life for Christmas.”

James agrees, saying that Beard products are top sellers, for not only regular clients but their loved ones too. “Because of our high volume of bearded customers at the Dapper Den, their significant others never know what to get them for a gift. But when a significant other comes in looking for a gift, they get to smell the many scents of Beard Octane’s Buttas, Balms, and Oils. When they find the one (or two, or three) that they love, then everybody wins. The bearded person gets an incredible product from Beard Octane, and the person they are with gets to smell the scent they like the most.”

“MY FAVORITE PRODUCT TO SEND FOR USE AT HOME IS THE BEARD OCTANE SOLID BEARD WASH BAR. IT IS PERFECTLY PH BALANCED SO IT WILL NOT DRY OUT YOUR BEARD AND USING IT IS UNBELIEVABLY QUICK AND EASY.”

WILL POULTER’S RECENT APPEARANCE AT THIS YEAR’S PARIS FASHION WEEK BROKE THE INTERNET. “THIS MAN HAS HAD THE MOST INSANE GLOW-UP,” COMMENTED AN ADMIRER. WHAT HAD THE ACTOR OF THE MOMENT DONE? WHY, MR POULTER HAS SIMPLY FRAMED HIS YOUTHFUL FACE WITH A BEARD AND MOUSTACHE. MISSION BOY TO MAN DULY ACCOMPLISHED!

FRAMING FACES

with Captain Fawcett

Safe to say, beards aren’t just a passing trend. In fact, they continue to grow in popularity. And if there’s one man whose beard is well recognized across the global barbering industry, it’s Richie Finney, founder of award-winning Gentleman’s Grooming brand Captain Fawcett. He’s worn his magnificent whiskers for years. In fact, the whole Fawcett story sprang from a Moustache Wax Richie originally cooked up at home for personal use. An array of Beard Oils and Balms followed and now Captain Fawcett offers a superb full ‘Hair Couture’ collection, providing everything a man needs to take care of his hair - wherever it may be!

So about Will Poulter’s glow up, can you help clients make a similar jaw-dropping impression?

We asked Richie to share his own secrets.

How should someone get started with a beard?

Let if grow, let it grow, let it grow! However tempting it may be, do not shave for at least six weeks. Avoid any trimming or shaping at this tender stage, to best reveal where a chap’s beard growth is strongest. And

confidently ignore any disparaging comments from friends, family and workmates! It matters not what people think, this is your journey. Carry on!

What can I do for clients who ask me to make their beard grow thicker and faster?

Be honest! And make no false promises. Because the truth is, you can’t! However, rest assured, there is plenty you can do to support healthy hair growth. Indeed, your hair is a reflection of your lifestyle and as such, a healthy diet and decent sleep will certainly help a fellow make the most of his very own, uniquely wonderful beard. Look after yourself and your hair will grow!

Is growing a beard always itchy?

The initial period of hirsute experimentation with one’s face can be a tad ticklish. Moisturize stubble with a good quality Beard Oil, such as one of Captain Fawcett’s.

Captain Fawcett Ambassador Maxwell Newton / Photographer Iain Crockart

We have eight different nourishing Oils, each with a distinctive Signature Series fragrance to suit mood and occasion, all lending a subtle gleam to one’s noble mane!

How can barbers help?

Once hair is at a suitable length, it’s time to sculpt a beard to suit your client’s face shape and individual beard hair growth pattern. Defining the boundaries of a beard, from neck line to cheek line, creates a sharp, polished look. Trim flyaways with the Captain’s Hand-Crafted Grooming Scissors, enabling a precision trim of top lip topiary.

Should you shampoo a beard?

One simply must keep a beard clean, particularly those of us partial to ice-cream! Lightly apply a beard-specific shampoo to protect the hair cuticle and its balance of natural oils. Perchance your dear Grandma may have advocated egg, rain water or even fine ale to give hair a glorious shine? Well, she was quite right! Which is why Captain Fawcett's AwardWinning Beer’d Shampoo®, is made with his preferred IPA. It’s a reassuringly gentle concoction designed not only to wash away the detritus of the day, but to leave beards in tip-top condition!

I would also advise against use of a hairdryer as this is likely to dry out the hair, causing it to become brittle and prone to breaking.

How about brushing?

Certainly! A high-quality beard comb or brush, like Captain Fawcett’s Wild Boar Bristle

Brush detangles facial hair and evenly distributes your preferred conditioning treatment. As well as stimulating the follicles it teases out any loose hairs. The Captain’s Folding Pocket Beard Comb is designed to pop in one’s pocket and tame unruly chins on the go!

What’s the best way to apply Beard Oil?

Comb gently through damp hair to enrich and condition while adding a beautiful sheen. Oils and Balms promote a softer, more manageable, delightfully strokeable beard!

What about the Moustache?

Pay special attention to your moustache. It’s a time-honoured method of ennobling one’s upper lip! Trim any stray hairs and use a tip top Moustache Wax to train it up and away from your mouth. A light Moustache Wax is fine for every day, but for the gentleman requiring a rather firmer hold I suggest Captain Fawcett’s Expedition Strength Moustache Wax, ideal for ‘Keeping A Stiff Upper Lip Regardless’™ when assailed by extreme heat or surviving an unscheduled encounter with one’s bank manager.

How about perfume?

Layering fragrance is a great way to give your beard added scent appeal. For example, Captain Fawcett’s Private Stock Beard Balm uses the Captain’s very own ‘Private Stock’ fragrance, as found in his award winning Beard Oil & Moustache Wax. It’s a delectable fusion of five base creams and exotic waxes fragranced with essential oils of Cedarwood, Black Pepper, Patchouli & Palmarosa to tame, nourish and condition beards. You’ll find full instructions for using all products on the Captain Fawcett website!

Any final encouragement?

Coax, cajole and reward! Patience is key! A beard takes time to grow and fill out. In truth, a combination of dedication and careful nurturing, along with gentle persuasion, cannot help but achieve great results.

All Hail the Hirsute™

‘NOTHING ELSE COMES CLOSE’

Captain Fawcett’s award-winning Beard & Moustache ranges are the choice of discerning professionals across the globe. And what’s more, splendid savings await all highly esteemed BarberEVO readers.

Simply scan the QR code to contact Fawcett HQ. To unlock your exclusive discount rate - don’t forget to say BarberEvo sent you! Huzzah!

www.captainfawcett.com

TM

Highest Beards & Riffs performers.

BEST OF THE Best

PREMIUM PRODUCTS All-Natural

BEARDS & RIFFS PRODUCT BRAND CO-FOUNDER NATHAN WINFIELD TOLD US WHY IT’S IMPORTANT FOR BARBERS TO INVEST IN AND USE ALL-NATURAL PRODUCTS – IT’S NOT JUST AN ETHICAL MOVE IT’S A STRATEGIC FINANCIAL ONE TOO.

Nathan told us that like so many other bearded guys, himself and Beards & Riffs co-founder Wayne tried lots of different brands, but without the sustainable aspect, they weren’t interested. “We just couldn’t find exactly the right fit for us,” he said. “That frustration ended up in a dream that Wayne had. He was so excited that he called me early the next morning and asked how I felt about starting our own all-natural beard care company. A week later we had our LLC and started the journey toward our own beard care line!”

Making products with all-natural ingreditents that are kind to the skin and hair is something that a lot of barbers and their clients are looking for. Not everyone has welcomed what some may say is a trend, but the demand is ever-growing and stocking/using consciously-made products is not just morally lucrative; it is financially lucrative, too. People are willing to pay higher for great products at the retail station and in the chair.

Nathan told us how selecting the right ingredients has refined their offerings: “Clients expect barbers to be experts when it comes to styling and caring for their facial hair, and most are more than willing to invest in quality products if pointed in that direction. When the barber makes an additional profit on all-natural ingredients, the client gets a premium product that helps them achieve the look and feel they want. Natural products provide that experience and the peace of mind that comes from knowing the products purchased won’t harm their hair or

their skin. I know some customers are motivated by price but clients who are looking for an allnatural experience are inclined to be loyal to those barbers who are like minded. I would encourage any barber who is looking to increase profit to educate their clients on the products they are using during the appointment.”

Why are all-natural products better for the client’s facial hair and skin? Nathan told us: “When it comes to healthy hair and skin, there is no better option for clients. There are many brands to choose from, but only all-natural products can provide the look and feel clients want and leave them feeling secure in the fact that what was just used on their facial hair and skin is only going to benefit them; there is nothing harmful in the all-natural experience. We hear from loyal clients all the time that they are enjoying their bearded journeys now that they are using the Beards & Riffs beard care line. They didn’t realize that our allnatural solution was going to be so different from what they had experienced from other brands.”

How can barbers boost the likelihood of selling retail? “Explaining to the client what product is being used, why it’s being used, and how it’s applied are easy ways to seamlessly introduce the product into the experience. Don’t be afraid to ask for the sale! If you laid the foundation during the appointment, the sale would take care of itself.”

“Our beard oils are a proprietary blend of coconut oil, castor oil, sunflower seed oil, vitamin E, and essential oil fragrances. That formula base of naturally occurring oils is among the best options for moisturizing, nourishing, and soothing skin. When used regularly, flaky, itchy, and irritated skin will be a thing of the past!”

“Our beard balms contain the same carrier oils as our standard beard oil but also contain beeswax, shea butter and lanolin. Beeswax allows for a light holding effect, shea butter helps to moisturize and soften beard hair, and lanolin is a natural protectant for hair and skin. When used regularly, your beard hair will look healthy, feel soft, and smell amazing!”

“A good beard care program starts in the shower! We use the same carrier oil base and add castile soap and distilled water for an amazing beard wash! We tell guys that if you’re going to have facial hair, washing it is a critical first step. Our conditioning beard wash not only strips away the dirt and grime from the day, but also removes any beard care product buildup. Our wash doesn’t stop there! Because we use our carrier oil base in the wash formula, your beard doesn’t remain bare and vulnerable. The oils help to kickstart the moisturization process that paves the way for the beard oil and balm. Using all three of these products in your beard care program will absolutely have your beard looking and feeling fantastic!”

Photography// Beards & Riffs

1. BEARD OIL

3. CONDITIONING BEARD WASH

2. BEARD BALM

BEARDS & RIFFS CONDITIONING WASH SKU WASH

Our beard wash is a conditioning cleanser that will leave the beard as clean as a whistle without stripping the natural oils. Feels and smells wonderful!

$23.00 // beardsandriffs.com

CAPTAIN FAWCETT’S STRONG POMADE

This high shine hair styling Pomade offers a strong hold for medium/ thick hair. Contemporary cool with a hint of nostalgia providing sculpted definition and a brilliant finish. Just the ticket for creating a range of super glossy styles from bad boy Outsiders quiff to duck-tail teddy boy and straight up pompadour.

$34.75 // captainfawcett.com

18.21 MAN MADE DETOX BAR SOAP

Featuring Sweet Tobacco scent in a cunning cigar box package, this moisturizing, non-drying bar soap offers a rich lather and activated charcoal to help remove excess oil, dirt and impurities from face and body.

$20.00 // 1821manmade.com

H14 SHAVE GEL & WHISKY WATER AFTER SHAVE MAN-SPLASH

Gel is carefully formulated to leave skin smooth and invigorated, preventing razor burn and irritation.

Whisky Water protects, tones and tightens pores, while soothing skin after shaving.

$13.50 & $23.00 // h14.com

BEARD OCTANE FABRICATOR LATHER CONDITIONING WASH

Specifically designed to moisturize, lather and cleanse beard. LCW will devour the beard entirely with its heavy Lathering properties, force-feeding it with moisture throughout.

$21.99 // beardoctane.com

Striving to connect beardsmen and music enthusiasts across the globe by providing all-natural, high-quality products, merchandise and support to help them feel their best, look their best, and to be their best.

GARDE

AVANT-GARDE IS THE ULTIMATE FORM OF HAIR ART. THIS IS WHERE STYLISTS AND BARBERS CAN LET LOOSE; WHERE NO HAIRSTYLE, COLOR, OR CUT IS IMPOSSIBLE. WE CHAT TO MASTERS OF THE CRAFT TO FIND OUT HOW TO TACKLE AVANT-GARDE WORK, STAY CREATIVE, AND CHARGE YOUR WORTH.

OF ILLUSTRATION

MOHAMMAD MAHALLATI IS THE MASTER OF HAIR DESIGN. HIS AVANT-GARDE CREATIONS FEATURE EVERYTHING FROM ILLUSTRATIONS TO GEOMETRIC AND ABSTRACT ART. HE’S A BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR JRL AND TOLD US HOW HE EXECUTES HIS INCREDIBLE WORK – AND WHAT HE CHARGES FOR EACH SESSION.

Mohammad’s designs, in total honestly, are breaking the boundaries of what the industry knows as possible. His 52k-strong Instagram page is saturated with unique designs and illustrations, each as crisp and creative as

the last. We had so many questions for this talented barber and stylist, but mostly we wanted to know: how much does Mohammad charge for these truly incredible designs? We got the intel: “The price varies between $200

and $500 dollars and sometimes even up to $1,000. It totally depends on the cut, design, and duration. The cost of each creative design and color is bespoke and tailored to the design.” 

Photography// Mohammad Mahallati

HOW TO

Where does Mohammad find inspiration? “In this world full of abundance, you can take a creative example from nature, animals – everything you look at can be inspiration. For creative coloring, get an idea from the objects around you that have different curved, flat, circle, etc. shapes, and then design it on paper. Repeating this work and practising will build the base of the creative mindset needed to execute intricate hair art.”

How can other barbers start developing the skills to do these kinds of designs? “They can get help from Pinterest and by experimenting with different hair design tools and training,” he said.

We asked this hair artist extraordinaire what tools he uses to execute the styles? Mohammad revealed: “JRL Halo Hair Processor dries the dye. The even heating provides deeper penetration of hair treatments, greatly improving the impact and speed of hair coloring.

“I style with the JRL Forte Pro Hairdryer as well as the JRL Fresh Fade 2020C Clipper and Trimmer set. The unique designs of the JRL tools attracted me to the brand in the first place.”

STOP THE BLEEDING

How to prevent dye blending between lines. The main thing is choosing the right colors. We gradually move from dark colors to light. This way, your colors will never spread between the lines because they’re have such a contrast.

We spoke more about the work Mohammad does with JRL. He told us: “It was my intricate design work that caught JRL’s eye. I got to know the brand over time, and they eventually became my sponsor.

“Also, this year, I was among the five finalists in the fade section at the biggest #ONESHOT Hair Awards yet. I’ve also had many requests for cooperation in American Cosmetics, which is important to me.”

Creativity, Mohammad thinks, is the key to developing the barbering industry and encouraging unique thoughts and styles. He said: “In my opinion, the boundaries should always be moving. Shifting boundaries is a sign of a creative mind and no one can stop a creative mind. That way, innovations will be endless. I like to move the boundaries of creative color work and make changes so that people can see my extraordinary effect on classic vivid techniques.” Find Mohammad on Instagram as @mr.line_ •

STEP 1: THE PREP

I prepare the hair for coloring by pre-lightening with bleach. This provides a strong base from which to get the most vibrant color. I need that when creating masterpieces – the clearer the contrast, the crisper the lines.

STEP 2: THE TOOLS

The cut you do acts as the base for painting – a fresh fade makes designing easier. Generally, the base color will go on first and then the painting and artwork goes on after – essentially, it’s your canvas. So, to do the cuts, I always use JRL. For this design, I used the FreshFade 2020T Trimmer because I knew I’d get a super close buzz.

STEP 3: THE COLOR

It’s important to pick brands that you know will have super vibrant final results. Crazy Color are my go-to. They always deliver strong, quality color that I know will create the solid base I need for intricate designs.

STEP 4: THE ILLUSTRATION

This is why I get my nickname, ‘The Hair Picasso’. The Homer Simpson relied on super defined outlines, so I used extremely thin pens and a make-up palette to transfer the design onto the head. I use this as a stencil to create the masterpiece from there.

STEP 5: THE FINALE

The process took me about five hours from start to finish, with the initial cut and color, and then the design itself. I like to take time to make sure it’s right. The camera picks up everything, so if it’s not a good job, it won’t go on my Instagram and that’s a waste of my time, my products, and my model’s time as well.

I STYLE WITH THE JRL FORTE PRO HAIRDRYER AS WELL AS THE JRL FRESH FADE 2020C CLIPPER AND TRIMMER SET. THE UNIQUE DESIGNS OF THE JRL TOOLS ATTRACTED ME TO THE BRAND IN THE FIRST PLACE.”

AS THE OWNER OF A GENDER NEUTRAL BARBERSHOP, HEADSPACE BARBERSHOP, BARBEREVO COLUMNIST, TAYLOR LEVEN IS CONSTANTLY ENCOURAGING AND INSPIRING HER TEAM TO PUSH THE LIMITS OF CREATIVITY AND TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX.

ALLOWING HEADSPACE FOR

BY TAYLOR LEVEN

Creativity is so important to us at Headspace

Barbershop because it keeps us inspired and passionate about what we do. At Headspace, we help to curate a haircut that brings out your own style. We offer an artist’s touch, and to fuel that passion we have to continuously be feeding our creativity.

Make Purposeful Time for Creating

Continuously staying in that creative headspace is not a simple task, so it is something we have to take conscious actions toward. For example, we have what I like to call creative Sundays! This is a day when the shop is closed, we bring in models, try new techniques, create cool content, and let our creative juices flow! Having an unlimited amount of time to create is so key when you’re trying new techniques. When you’re fully booked behind the chair it can be hard to really explore your creative side, so we always make time for “play time.”

The Creative’s Toolkit

Here are some of Taylor’s top tools and products to stay in the creative lane:

For Lightening and Lifting:

Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME

Premium Lightener & Developer

Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ lightens up to 9 levels, enforces bonds within the hair fiber and provides advanced neutralization and improved hair care when used with the BLONDME Premium Developer.

Embrace Learning New Skills & Techniques

One of the things that make Headspace stand out is that we offer full-color services, which is still not especially popular in traditional barbershops. We are starting to see people experiment a lot more with their own hairstyles and colors! A lot of the current hair trends involve detailed barbering, precise shear work, and pops of color. We find that if you don’t know a little bit about everything, it can be really easy to lose a client. They would much rather go to one person who can do it all. You have to be able to adapt to the hair trends so you don’t lose your clients when the trends change.

Make Your Creative Nature a USP

Clients know Headspace as a welcoming, nonjudgmental, and creative space, which is exactly why a lot of our clients were drawn to us in the

For Vivid Hair Art

Pravana ChromaSilk VIVIDS

PRAVANA’s ChromaSilk VIVIDS collection is semipermanent, nonoxidative hair color that is designed to be used without developer.

VIVIDS Clear-Dilute can be used to lighten or brighten any of your VIVIDS shades. Comes in 23 shades.

first place. You can tell through our website and our socials that we are all really passionate about what we do. It isn’t just a job for us. I take a lot of pride in showing off each of the barbers' own unique brand and style on all of our socials so that clients can choose someone who best fits!

Be Adventurous!

My best advice for those who are feeling like they are stuck in a rut, and want to start thinking outside of the box? Make time for playtime! Find models! Offer free haircuts to people that give you creative freedom! Do things (outside of hair) that inspire you. Explore new cultures, foods, and fashion. Get into nature! Explore different mediums of art! Creatives need time to be creative. Slow down and take time to quiet the noise and just create for fun, not because you have to!

For Hair Designs

Cocco Hyper Veloce

Pro Trimmer

With the brushless DC motor which delivers unmatched power, and the Digital Gap™ Ambassador DLC Blade for detailing and outlining, and all-metal aluminium alloy housing helps you get precision results every time.

A key element of editorial styling is being able to collaborate with MUAs, designers, stylists, editors, and brands (both on set and in the prep stages) to execute a vision that everyone is happy with. How does Thaddeus make sure he creates the looks he wants whilst keeping everyone else in the loop? “It’s all about clear communication,” he said. “Prior to any shoot, make sure you’re familiar with the brief before creating mood boards for what you’d like to achieve.”

How does Thaddeus translate this to other creative minds? After all, everyone wants to feel like they’ve been heard and validated creatively. The styling and education powerhouse told us: “Present your mood board and your vision in a way that everyone on set will understand. Often, I will use Pinterest to show

COLLABORATION IS

TORONTO-BASED HAIR SPECIALIST AND EDITORIAL STYLIST

THADDEUS JAYASEELAN IS ALSO AN AUTHOR AND L’ORÉAL MEN

AMBASSADOR FOR CANADA. HE TOLD US WHY REFINING YOUR PERSONAL BRAND AND COLLABORATING EFFECTIVELY WITH MUAS AND DESIGNERS IS KEY TO GETTING NOTICED BY HUGE BRANDS.

different hairstyles, color combos, fashion styles, and maybe artwork that translates not only the look but the vibe I’ll be working towards.”

Part of the editorial process is practice, too.

If you’re a barber looking to get into editorial styling, Thaddeus explained that you have to do the groundwork. “Collaboration, collaboration, collaboration. The first step is educating yourself and learning from others, then once you find your feet, you need to practice on real hair.”

Next, find people who are willing to let you style and experiment with their hair and surround yourself with other creatives both in the hair industry and beyond it. “Then, when your work is strong enough, find photographers, stylists, and makeup artists who align with your vision to help

execute a really cool collection. Working with fellow creatives doesn’t cost money, so long as everyone has a product that they can include in their portfolio at the end.”

Thaddeus now has his own tool brand and book, Hair Architecture. He combined his years of experience in styling and barbering to create educational resources that not only show you how to execute classic styles, but empower you to add your own spin and make them appropriate for a contemporary audience. He educates in Vancouver, Canada, and you can find his book at gradientworld.com (being released in EBook format very soon…)

Find Thaddeus on Instagram as @thaddeus.10

TOP 4 EDITORIAL ESSENTIALS

Thaddeus’s must-have tools and products when on set creating both avant-garde and sleek looks. These are versatile offerings that help you style every texture and length of hair.

TECNI.ART

Anti-Frizz

“Patented StaggerTooth™ blade diffuses lines of demarcation and allows for seamless fading and blending

Ultimate blending tool with Crunch Blade Technology™ designed to make a crisp, crunching sound when cutting 7200 RPM."

“Non-Slip Grip 7-inch Cesibon Comb is very popular and globally used by some of the best in the industry. This buey comb is unbreakable and made in white to differentiate the hair from the tool. The Japanese-made Precision Comb is designed

“This anti-frizz and anti-static hold spray lets you take control of your style: a must-have to tame fly-aways and unwanted frizz. This can be applied to damp hair to tame frizz, or dry hair for long-lasting hold. I actually use it on all styles to give that natural hold without weighing the hair down with a pomade or clay.”

Photography// Charlie Dixon, Thaddeus, JAYASEELAN.

1. Wahl 5 Star Cordless Magic Clip® and Cordless Detailer Li® Combo

2. GRADIENT Precision Comb

4. L’Oréal Professionnel

Fix

BY BARBERVILLE

FOR CREATIVE PEOPLE

AS THE FOUNDER OF BARBERVILLE FESTIVAL AND THE HOST BEHIND THE @THEBARBERVILLE SHOP TOUR SERIES, CJ HAS SEEN HIS FAIR SHARE OF CREATIVE BARBERING SPACES ACROSS THE COUNTRY. AFTER ALL, WORKING IN A CREATIVE SPACE INSPIRES CREATIVITY, AND CREATIVE PEOPLE, CREATE CREATIVE SPACES. CJ WALKS US THROUGH SOME OF THE MOST BOUNDARY-PUSHING SPACES HE HAS VISITED, AND WHAT MAKES THEM SO SPECIAL.

In the last f12 months, we (@thebarberville) have traveled to nearly every corner of the country, creating unique videos to showcase some of the most unique and special barbershops. From basketball court floors, to sprinkle doughnut ceilings, to spaces vast enough to hold a hummer

limo. In such a creative industry as barbering, it is no wonder there are so many unique approaches to decorating your barbershops. Here are a few shops that have really stood out in terms of creativity throughout our SHOP TOUR Series.

Photography// @thebarberville

Photography// @toshsignaturestudio

Photography// @Headquarters_chicago_

STUDIO OF GOATS

Tosh Signature Studio // Owner: Tosh Juneau

When Tosh was 13 years old, he had a vision of owning his own barbershop on the beach. He wrote it down and made it his mission. Now he has the studio he has always dreamt about.

This studio says luxury in the best way. With a consistent color palate of black and gold, every detail has been thought of, from the black and gold marbled floor, the ornate black and gold throne to make every guest feel like a king, to the insane murals of Dennis Rodman and Biggie Smalls.

DON’T FORGET TO LOOK UP

Clippers RVA3, Location: Richmond, Virginia Clippers RVA3 is such a playful take on the barbershop aesthetic. This spot is so bright and colorful, with a really unique design. As barbers, we are always looking at the top of our clients – their hair. But this is your reminder not to forget about the top of your shop – the ceiling. The ceiling at Clippers RVA3 makes clients feel like they are on the inside of a sprinkled doughnut,

especially when they lean back for a shave.

The space also features cartoonesque artwork, skateboards, and a life-size balloon-animal dog statue. This place gives you childhood nostalgia with a grown-up feeling, and it looks good enough to eat. Our words don’t do it justice, you’ll have to check it out for yourself.

CREATIVE S P A C E

Headquarters Chicago // Owner: Los Cut It

Tosh said: “Dennis Rodman’s hair designs were what originally introduced me to the barbershop. It inspired me to see the beauty in our differences. But more importantly, it taught me to be myself no matter what other people thought.”

Tosh’s favorite Biggie quote is: “You know very well who you are, don’t let 'em hold you down, reach for the stars.”

Tosh Studio Signature is all about encouraging originally, sticking to your guns, and chasing your dreams.

I won’t need to introduce you to the owner of this space, L3VEL3 Pro, and BaBylissPRO Ambassador, Los Cut It is famously one of the most creative barbers in the game, with his hair art masterpieces on a whole other level. It’s no surprise that his creative studio, HeadQuarters Chicago is on a whole other level too. Now, this space is not just a barbershop, it is so much more. Headquarters is the optimal studio space for creators. Whenever ‘Los isn’t traveling, this is his workspace and place to get his creative juices alive and flowing.

It features several hangout and meeting areas, a production space, a photo studio space, as well as two barbering stations as well. With a full garage door into the shop, ‘Los A-Star clients can drive their hottest wheels right into the VIP entrance of the space, from hot pink Hummer limos to pumped-up Jeeps, and the slickest sports cars. It’s not all work, work, work at Headquarters either, they’ve also got areas to chill, play video games, or even take some shots at a Pop-A-Shot machine.

CAPTURING COLOR

Neighbourhood Heroz // Owner: Luke Nahshon

Talk about head-to-toe color. This shop feels like the essence of creativity, like walking into the mind of an artist.

At Neighborhood Heroz, every inch of the wall is painted in a dope graffiti style that feels very thoughtout and intentional. It features pretty much every bright color under the sun, all dripping into each other –giving the effect that the shop was hit by a color tornado – in a very cool way. The feature wall also showcases

a graffiti-style “Do no evil, speak no evil, tell no evil” mural.

The floors at Neighborhood Heroz are also drenched in color, with super glossy epoxy. Walking in you feel like you are going to step foot right into a liquid rainbow.

The team at Neighborhood Heroz has kept up with the theme in every little detail, right down to having colorful capes, bright primarycolored stations, and a cheerful approach to barbering.

Photography// @neighborhood_heroz

FIBER EXTENDS TO ALL THE LENGTHS

Photography// David Raccuglia

The beautiful thing about hair trends these days is that there is no right or wrong answer when it comes to length. American Crew knows that men are wearing their hair in all lengths, and has curated a product line to suit everyone, even those clients who hate having products in their hair but want that put-together look.

Global Artistic Director of American Crew gives his pro tips on how to make the most of the Fiber products for all lengths.

FIBER CLASSIC

Works Well On Short Lengths

This high-hold, low shine styling puck is a hero for short hair. The ultimate choice for thickness, fullness, and texture all in one. Perfect for hair less than three inches in length. Work a dime size amount throughout the hair encouraging lift, hold, and maximum texture. Drying in Fiber Foam or Fiber Cream as a foundation on damp hair can also be a great base before finishing with the Fiber puck.

FIBER CREAM

Works Well On Medium Lengths

Fiber Cream is an excellent foundation styling product when dried into damp hair. It thickens the hair while still being pliable enough to manipulate it into shape. Add a final layer of the Fiber Cream for extra texture and hold when the hair is dry, giving you an opportunity to exaggerate the lift and definition.

FIBER GROOMING FOAM

Works Well On Longer Lengths

This fibrous volumizing foam is perfect for medium to longer lengths of hair in need of texture and fullness. Distribute the foam on damp hair from roots to ends and dry in, creating a manageable and workable finish. I also love to use a small amount as a final layer applied to dry hair for extra separation from the styling.

Top choice barber of the leading athletes in the country, Kenny Duncan, is a big fan of the American Crew Fiber products, especially for his active clients.

He said: “All of American Crew’s Fiber products work well with my athletes for general purpose grooming. Whenever a client shares that they don’t like a lot of product in the hair, or they like a lowmaintenance routine, if I desire to use anything, it will be one of the Fiber products from American Crew.”

One of the top choices for Kenny’s athletes is the Fiber Classic, as it gives a weightless and malleable finish to their short styles. “The Fiber Classic has a high hold with works well on short messy straight hair styles. It’s great for a secondday look and feel.

“The Fiber Classic also works well when layered with American Crew Fiber Cream for an increased hold after styling. Out of all the Fiber options the American Crew Fiber Classic is the product used most often on my athletes who don’t want much product in their hair. I will use a very small amount while the hair is damp, which allows for the product to spread easily. Then I can quickly finger style their hair and expect that it will stay with a strong hold.”

For his longer-haired clients and those with a little more texture in the hair, Kenny’s go-to’s are the Fiber Cream and Fiber Foam. He said: “Both the Fiber Cream and the Fiber Foam provide a natural shine with a medium hold that works well to help hold unruly hairs in place. I love to use these two Fiber options on curly styles after a deep conditioning treatment.”

No matter if your hair is short, medium, or long, there’s a Fiber product that is just right for you. Extend your skillset and product range with the Fiber products.

AMERICAN CREW'S RANGE OF FIBER PRODUCTS OFFERS VERSATILITY AND ADAPABILITY FOR ANY HAIR LENGTH. THE FIBER CLASSIC PUCK, FIBER CREAM, AND FIBER FOAM ARE IDEAL FOR WORKING WITH A VARIETY OF STYLES, AND GIVE YOUR LOW MAINTENENCE CLIENT THE 'I WOKE UP LIKE THIS' HAIRSTYLE OF THEIR DREAMS.