BarberEVO UK & Ireland Issue 37 (March/April 2023)

Page 1

GIO UKTOLSEJA

SPUK THE BARBER THE ROOTS

FOUNDATION

JAZZMAN GROOVES

BARBERSHOP

| MAR/APR 2023 // ISSUE #THIRTY SEVEN £5
A c -id
Huge range of productsOver 2,000 products WWW.BARBERBLADES.CO.UK Live Chat Service Mon-Fri Why Use BarberBlades.co.uk? HUGE RANGE OF PRODUCTS • 100% BARBERING £20 MINIMUM SPEND • FREE UK NEXT DAY DELIVERY ALL PRICES INC VAT • REWARD POINTS OVER 2,000 PRODUCTS • WEEKLY SPECIAL DEALS LIVE CHAT SERVICE MON-FRI • TRADE ONLY WWW.BARBERBLADES.CO.UK Free UK Next Day Delivery

range

REUZEL EXTREME HOLD MATTE POMADE

Reuzel Extreme Hold Matte Pomade provides Reuzel’s strongest hold and a matte finish. This water-based formula washes out easily and won’t leave build up behind. Its ater based formula washes out easily and won’t leave build up behind and has a subtle sugary rum fragrance. It’s 1 better than 10, it’s an 11!

(Available in 35g, 113g & 340g)

THE SHAVE FACTORY STYLING POWDER

The Shave Factory Hair Styling Powder Wax is a lightweight matt styling powder. It leaves hair instantly fuller, thicker and full of volume, without any left-over residue.

20g // £4.00

GAMMA+ STYLECRAFT REBEL CLIPPER

With more power than ever before, the Rebel has a super-torque rotary motor with 7,200 rpms yet still has low noise and vibration. The Rebel has three (3) body modification kits with Pink, Blue, or Black lids — all sporting the Rebel logo and an illuminating light when in use. Assembled with the Double Black Diamond blade combination of Fusion fixed blade and Deep Slim cutting blade and hanging hook for storage.

£180.00

£375.00

ANDIS BESPOKE TRIMMER

You were made to push the boundaries of possibility. Wield

100 years of detaildefining expertise with the beSPOKE Trimmer. Crafted with the strength and swagger that's Andis to the core, premium metal and lightweight resin blend together for a sleek, eyepopping frame that rests effortlessly in your hand. The powerful motor runs whisper-quiet, while the next-level wireless charging pad keeps your tools flowing strong.

ANDIS COOL CARE SPRAY

Andis Cool Care Spray cools and lubricates the blades of all clippers and trimmers. An absolute must have for the maintenance of your tools, a

439g // £9.16

Weekly Special deals WWW.BARBERBLADES.CO.UK Free UK Next Day Delivery FACEBOOK BARBERBLADES.CO.UK INSTAGRAM @BARBERBLADESUK
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Join Fresha today
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THE NEW LO-PROFX IS HERE.

The LO-PROFX collection features an ergonomically designed cordless clipper and trimmer. With ultra-low profile, heavy-metal housing for hard-working durability and graphite zero-gap adjustable blades for extremely smooth cutting. The high-torque brushless motor gives consistent fast blade speed for the ultimate barbering experience.

Available now babyliss.com

JOIN THE CREW

CHOOSE THE PUCK

FOR YOU

THE FINAL CUT.
AMERICAN CREW. A c-iD COLLECTION
THE FINAL CUT.

Hair// Adriana Fournier, Ian Harrold, Paul Wilson.

Creative Direction// David Raccuglia, Phoenix Thomson.

Models// Benno Bulang, Jester, Hyuk Kim, Aaron Lewins, Seb, Charlie Raphael. Clothes Stylist // Mark Anthony Bradbury. Make-up Ciara Maccarthy.

Production // AKAcreate.

Location // Castle Gibson.

Photography// David Raccuglia, Andrew Gilbert for AKAcreate.

THE FINAL CUT.
THE FINAL CUT.
Hair// Baldy. Models// Ed Curl, Josh Mcshane. Photography// Liam Oaks .

BALDY.

GEEZERS COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.
DENMAN. NUDE COLLECTION

Hair// Alan Beak. Photographers// Liam Oakes. Tools// Denman.

Technical Guidance and Post Production// Liam Oakes.

THE FINAL CUT.

Mairi

WELL, THAT’S IT! WE’VE MADE IT THROUGH THE WORST OF WINTER AND THOSE

POST-CHRISTMAS LULLS IN BUSINESS AND TRADE ARE HOPEFULLY COMING TO AN END. WINTER BLUES ARE PASSING FOR CLIENTS AND PROFESSIONALS ALIKE AND IT’S TIME NOW TO KICK ON!

With spring around the corner, we’re excited for better weather, bigger styles, and some massive events too.

Barber Connect is still a few months away but plans for June 11th and 12th are well underway. We’re the Official Media Partner and have lots of really exciting and immersive booth activations in store! We’re really looking forward to Cosmoprof

NAHA this year, holding exclusive interviews with the industry’s leading lights.

Laura

We’re proud to say that we are fast approaching our 100th magazine within the EVO family, which is crazy! It feels like it was only yesterday that we launched BarberEVO in the UK, and followed up by doing similar in North America, before launching SalonEVO on both sides of the Atlantic as well. But we wouldnt be where we are if it wasn’t for you, our incredible readership. We are only as good as our last edition and all the content we create is tailored with you, the professional, in mind. Stay in the loop by following us on Insta @barberevo. If you want to say hi at any events this year, just drop us a DM or email us on info@barberevo.com and we’ll make sure to catch you there. Let’s get on with business as usual. Enjoy the read, guys!

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ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS
COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright BarberEVO Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores. Evo Enterprises Ltd, Suite 2.2, 1 Redwood Crescent, East Kilbride, G74 5PA, United Kingdom BE SHARP . BE CONNECTED WWW.BARBEREVO.COM 37
Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com
Foster// david@barberevo.com * * * * DESIGN
Young// design@barberevo.com
Wickham// design@salon-evo.com * * * * EDITOR Jennifer Paxton// jennifer@salon-evo.com * * * * FEATURE WRITERS
Carruth// karen@barberevo.com
Mulhern// mmulhern@barberevo.com * * * * SALES MANAGER
DIRECTORS Andrew
David
Shana
Greg
Karen
Mairi
Cotter// mairi@barberevo.com
* * * ACCOUNT MANAGER
Thomson// jane@salon-evo.com
* * * DIGITAL MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER
*
Jane
*
Davidson// laura@barberevo.com
* * * OFFICE MANAGER
Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com
* * * COVER American Crew// Ac-iD Collection 40 40 32 76
*
Elspeth
*

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

WELCOME TO BARBEREVO ISSUE 37! LET’S TALK ABOUT STYLE BABY! THIS ISSUE IS ALL ABOUT FINDING YOUR UNIQUE STYLE AS AN ARTIST, KEEPING UP WITH THE STYLES THAT ARE TRENDING, AND ENSURING YOUR SPACE MATCHES YOUR STYLE TOO.

Gracing our coveted cover this issue is American Crew’s latest ‘Ac-Id’ collection – a tribute to the style and music of the 90s, using AC’s iconic collection of styling pucks. We caught up with the AC Creative Team on the set of this shoot to see how the magic all comes together.

The man with style for days, Tariq Howes kicks off our styling feature by sharing his experiences in the session styling world and as a BaByliss PRO UK Ambassador.

Gio Uktolseja based In Rotterdam talks about developing your own iconic style, and Liam Lovetts gives us the facts on short vs long styling.

Next, EVO goes ECO. In this feature, we talk all about how to eco-ify your barbershop, not only to help save the planet, but to save money, and bring in more clients too! You don’t have to go vegan, but maybe your hair products can. Finally, we take a peek into some of this season’s best barbershop interiors. How can you add style to your space? Maybe it’s in investing in the best chairs, customising your furniture, finding a theme, or investing in a new state-ofthe-art technology?

EXCLUSIVE MEDIA PARTNER www.barberconnect.co.uk VIKKI
Owner/Lead
RUM BARBER Owners
SIMON SHAW Wahl Professional Global Artistic Director KEVIN VORLEY K Barbers Emporium / Andis Global Educator / MHFED ambassador. ALAN BEAK Director & Co founder RUGER. / Wahl UK Creative Director KEITH CONNIFORD CEO/Registrar at The Hair and Barber Council 64 84 36 68 34 72 90 100 54 60 74 82 44 27
HARRISON-SMITH
Educator, SB Barbering Academy
Joseph Goss and Paul Montgomery

SHORT CUTS.

BARBEREVO ARE GOING THE ROAD WITH BABYLISS PRO

BarberEVO are delighted to announce that we are hitting the road in partnership with BaByliss PRO

First up, The BarberEVO Roadshow powered by BaByliss PRO will be staging our inaugural ‘Barber EVO Roadshow - powered by BaByliss PRO’ event this June in Liverpool.

DON’T MISS OUT ON UNIQUE

OPPORTUNITIES LIKE:

• Networking

• Education

• Guest demonstrations from BaByliss PRO’s grooming ambassadors

NHBF RESPONDS TO ENERGY BILLS DISCOUNT SCHEME

The government has announced the introduction of an Energy Bills Discount Scheme from March 31, 2023, to March 2024 − replacing the current support providing discount on your gas and electricity unit prices.

Be the first to see the freshest styles, techniques and tools in actionincluding the newly released LoPro FX range and CustomFX collection.

Watch this space for more info coming soon. Be part of the EVO-lution!

FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING LAUNCH AN INTERACTIVE EDUCATIONAL APP

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has developed the Fellowship App, available on both Apple and Androids. The mission is to provide all generations of hairdressers access to the latest education on Fellowship events and Projects. The app shares accessible education from world-class Fellowship Members, building a community of like-minded pros to showcase their work, watch content created by the Fellowship’s eight Project Teams and book tickets for Fellowship

events. App users can access stepby-steps in cutting, colouring, and dressing hair - it’s like a who’s who of hairdressing, providing insight into the rich heritage of the Fellowship. The Fellowship President, Robert Eaton, said: “Our vision for the app is to be the go-to tool for all hairdressers, from apprentices and trainees to salon owners and senior, freelance and salon stylists. App content is updated regularly and can be downloaded for free on the App/Google store.

HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY HOSTS SPRING PARTY

A date for the diary! On Sunday, 23rd April 2023, Hair & Beauty Charity will host its first ever Spring Party, at iconic nightclub EGG LDN.

Hair legend Nick Irwin will lead on the decks, with another amazing name being announced shortly, as professionals gather to celebrate a charity that does so much for our industry. From 8pm until 3am, Hair & Beauty Charity will take over EGG London’s loft and outdoor terrace –and for those who don’t want to stop there, it is free entry to the rest of the club until 6am.

The charity is looking for more DJ talent to join Nick. With vinyl and digital decks, EGG offers you the chance to play at one of the

capital’s best dance clubs, keeping the floor full of your industry peers.

If you fancy yourself as the next Peggy Gou or Fat Boy Slim, please submit your videos/resume to be in with a chance of playing a slot at one of London’s biggest nightclubs email Sharon@slbpr.co.uk to be considered.

Tickets are priced at £25 per person, including a welcome drink and free entrance to all of Egg, at Kings Cross, London. Live now, gather your mates and enjoy the fact that your good time is helping those in our industry who have fallen on the very worst of time. Tickets on sale now at hairandbeautycharity.org/shop

This new support will give businesses with an energy contract discounts on wholesale prices of up to £6.97 per megawatt an hour for electricity and £19.61 per megawatt an hour for gas. This is much less than the current discount because wholesale energy costs have fallen back to where they were before just before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and almost halved since the current scheme was announced.

Business will receive the discount automatically. The Government estimates that a typical pub will save £2,300 off their annual bill and small retailer will save around £400.

Responding to the announcement, Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive said: “We are relieved that the Government has answered our call and that the hair and beauty sector will at least receive some support via the Energy Bills Discount Scheme. However, many will see the discount swallowed up in the first month or two of the energy prices increases they are already facing.

“Energy costs are the first or second largest outgoing for most hair and beauty salons and barbershops and it remains to be seen whether this reduced support will help many keep the doors open and lights on beyond March 2023.”

For more advice and information about the Energy Bill Discount Scheme please visit the UK Government at gov.uk/ guidance/energy-bills-discount-scheme

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COMING SOON

BARBERSRIDE 2023 HEADS TO IRELAND

The Emerald Isle is in for a treat when the BarbersRide 2023 charity motorcycle ride hits its shores in August this year.

The event, which has raised more than £110,000 for charity so far, started with a bunch of biking barbers and industry guys who wanted to combine their love of biking and barbering with a fundraising event. Now in its seventh year, the riders aim to raise more than £25,000 for Make-A-Wish children’s charity while enjoying the unbeatable sense of camaraderie that only a motorcycling road trip can offer.

If you feel the need for speed and want to sign up, you will enjoy an incredible ride around Ireland while being hosted in various barbershops

in the evening for demonstrations, fund raising and fun and nonsense.

This year’s ride kicks off on August 5th until the 10th. First stop Malahide, then Londonderry, Galway, Tralee, Wexford and finishing up on the 10th at Dublin.

The full trip costs £180 per rider, which includes full access to all evening gatherings, five days of riding Britain’s finest roads with rider support vehicle, 5x branded sponsor t-shirts, a goody bag worth more than £75 from the sponsors, and priceless memories to last a lifetime. Numbers are strictly limited, so book now to join this crazy, unforgettable adventure. For more info, go to barbersride.com

ANDIS° COMPANY UNVEILS CENTENNIAL BESPOKETM TRIMMER

Andis commemorates 100 years of brand innovation with centennial trimmer featuring wireless induction charging.

Andis Company has announced the launch of the Centennial beSPOKE Trimmer. The latest trimmer in its portfolio is designed specifically for professionals who are inspired by precision design to create custom looks. The beSPOKE trimmer uses the latest technology, including revolutionary induction charging and next-level design, to pay homage to the brand’s leadership in innovation on its centennial anniversary.

“The beSPOKE Trimmer commemorates our 100th anniversary and ushers in the next century of Andis,” said co-CEO Matt Andis. “The premium Z-Blade celebrates the legacy of Andis as a quality blade manufacturer, while the wireless induction charging represents our relentless drive to innovate and help our creators take their artistry to the next level.”

The beSPOKE Trimmer’s design is a nod to the future with an ergonomic shape, sleek lines, and a modern, metallic color palette toasting Andis Company’s spectacular history. But what’s most unique is the tool’s wireless charging technology. The induction charging stand provides convenient,

wireless charging, proudly displays your trimmer, and is compatible with other induction charging Qi-compatible devices, such as your phone.

“The beSPOKE Trimmer embodies what Andis is as a brand. By infusing innovation, modern trends, and premium colour schemes, along with truly understanding advancements to solve daily challenges that our barbers and stylists face, the beSPOKE trimmer is a combination of sleek design and leading-edge technology,” said Angie Vlasaty Peterson, Andis VP of Marketing.

Like all Andis tools, the beSPOKE delivers power and precision with a high-speed rotary motor and lithium-ion battery providing 1.5 hours of cordless freedom to create. Wrapped in an elegant champagne finish, the Andis Outliner Deep-Tooth GTX-Z Blade delivers crisp visibility for tight lines, slick fades, and top-notch design work. The blade’s aggressive, zero-gap setting delivers a razor-like finish.

Available at authorised Andis dealers and online, the beSPOKE Trimmer includes a premium induction charging stand, phone charging clip, four attachment combs, a power supply cord, and a one-year warranty.

Learn more about the new tool at: andis.com/centennial

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MENSPIRE OPENS IN GLASGOW

Menspire has announced the opening of its new location in Glasgow. Which has been a long-term goal of the brand’s Aberdeen location director Andy Dawson. Menspire Glasgow opened in Renfrew Street in the city centre in January, and behind the chair will be Andy @andydawson_, Jeffrey Batista @jeffreybatista_ and James Ewen @james.ewen_

Andy has spent the last five years building the Menspire brand in Scotland with the vision to expand nationwide, starting with Glasgow and he is extremely proud to see it come to life.

The new location is predominantly a barbershop but Andy will be using it as an education space, much like the Aberdeen location, as he continues to offer Menspire Academy Education in Scotland.

Andy said: “All in all I’m thrilled to bring Menspire to Glasgow as it’s always been a goal of mine and that of my business partners, Josh and Sam.”

Manager at the new location, Jeffrey Batista said: “I’m extremely grateful for this opportunity and can’t thank Sam, Josh and Andy enough for making me part of it. It’s a dream of mine for so long to work with this incredible brand that inspires me every day.”

Menspire is an award-winning provider of barber education designed to unlock student’s potential through a structured process and has locations all over the UK and also now in the States.

For more details go to menspire.co.uk

STMNT GROOMING GOODS LAUNCH DEDICATED INSTAGRAM FOR THE UK AND IRELAND

Fuelled by the knowledge and artistry of leading barbers, STMNT is a unique brand that goes beyond product. This is a brand with purpose. This is a community that honours craftsmanship and strives to keep doing better.

As the lines between barbering and hairdressing have blurred, their shared values have become intertwined. Core barbering values, skills and traditions are still in place – but grooming has been reimagined. BarberEVO has a strong relationship with STMNT in North America and we are excited to see the launch of a dedicated UK Instagram account. STMNT is all about the complete package, where style is tailored, and the experience is seamless from the salon to the daily routine.

Image-conscious individuals choose brands that align with their values, reflect their personality, and are backed by professionals

they trust. They choose high-performance products that fit with their lifestyles. Products that look good, smell good and feel good. They’re designed to make a statement. STMNT UK & Ireland’s mission is to do more than contribute. Rewriting the standards of grooming. It is genderless, inclusive, and passionate about making the short hair specialist space their home. They respect those that choose to make bold, authentic statements – and they are here to help. Creating a community that positively inspires the industry: people that stand up for what they believe in, take a collaborative approach and want to align themselves with a brand that goes beyond product – a brand with purpose.

Are you ready to #makeyourstmnt? Join the local community via @stmnt.uk on Instagram and Facebook now.

GOLDEN CHAIR INTERNATIONAL HEADS TO MANCHESTER

Golden Chair International is an international event created to bring professional haircutters to the main stage through competition and education. Barber battles, urban education and networking opportunities are guaranteed at this worldwide event that has been running since 2017.

The event promises food, music, urban entertainment, and a multitude of styles for professionals from all demographics.

After a hiatus, the event returned to Barcelona in January 2023 with great success, and the show will be heading to Manchester’s Mercure Manchester Piccadilly Hotel on April 2nd, 2023, before heading to Ghana in August. Final details will be coming soon, stay tuned to @goldenchairintl for the latest announcements on dates and ticket prices. See goldenchairintl.com

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OCT/NOV 2022 ISSUE #TWENTY SEVEN $10 STMNT. MAKiNG
A

WITH THE SUPPORT OF

A NEW WORLD FOR BEAUTY BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK, MIAMI ORGANIZED BY BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it COMPANY OF IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE MOST IMPORTANT BEAUTY TRADE SHOW IN THE WORLD, DEDICATED TO ALL SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY COSMOPROF.COM BOLOGNA, ITALY FAIR DISTRICT
– 18
2023
2023
16
MARCH
17
20 MARCH

ANDIS REVITE CLIPPER

Comes with the functionality of a removable blade and adjustable blade in one tool, making an easy switch between a taper and fade blade. Large textured grip enhances comfort and a high speed rotary motor means it won’t drag or stall. With two hours of run time.

£189.00 // andis.com

which allows pomade to easily wash from the hair without residue or buildup. Medium hold, high shine. reuzel.uk

SCURL NO DRIP CURL ACTIVATOR MOISTURIZER

Exclusive no drip formula allows texturiser users to maintain their styles stainfree. Leaves hair soft, healthy and touchable. Great for natural and texturised styles. Helps eliminate breakage.

£3.25 // chrisandsons.co.uk

A CUT ABOVE

CAPE GANG NEW SNAKE GREEN CAPE

WAHL LIMITED EDITION METAL CORDLESS SENIOR

A powerful motor, high blade speed and unstoppable fading ability is all now encased in the most sought-after and premium feel Wahl Limited Edition Metal Senior. This clipper drives power into a thin profile blade to achieve the closest cutting results for ultra-smooth fading.

£179.99 excl. VAT // wahl.co.uk

AMERICAN CREW WHIP

An airy, weightless whipped formulation that provides subtle texture and control for a natural, effortless look. Absorbs readily into the hair, providing definition and separation. 3oz.

£19.50 // americancrew.com

BABYLISS PRO LO-PROFX COLLECTION FX825

Featuring an ultra-low profile metal shield cover and ergonomic grip housing. It’s powered by a highperformance brushless 6,800 RPM motor with a high-capacity 3,300 mAh lithium-ion battery.

babyliss.com

Cape Gangs original Snake Cape has evolved, goodbye to the purple (for now...) and HELLO Green! Cape Gangs new features for 2023 are bigger capes, stronger with more durable necks and they now come in a reusable

OIL CAN GROOMING STYLING POWDER

The go-to product for lightweight texture and volume. Add to roots on mid to longer hair for volume or apply freely to shorter styles for hold and natural texture.

£14.00 // oilcangrooming.com

OSTER PROFESSIONAL T-FINISHER

This high speed trimmer features automatic adaptive speed control for constant power, regardless of the hair type. The high-torque brushless motor cuts smoothly through without any snags. Its 2200 MAH battery delivers 180 minutes run time on full charge.

£130.00 // barberblades.co.uk

KEITH CONNIFORD RETIRES AS REGISTRAR OF HAIRDRESSING AND BARBER COUNCIL

AFTER SEVEN YEARS OF DEDICATED SERVICE, KEITH CONNIFORD IS RETIRING AS REGISTRAR OF THE HAIRDRESSING AND BARBER COUNCIL. KEITH IS BEING REPLACED AS REGISTRAR BY GARETH PENN AND DAVID

Having initially signed up for two years, Keith remained at the helm of the Hairdressing and Barber Council for seven years, which included successfully guiding the Council through the unprecedented challenges of Covid.

Commenting on Keith's retirement, David Drew, Chairman elect of the Hairdressing and Barber Council said:

“As a state registered Hair and Barber Council master craftsman since 1994, and an elected Hair and Barber council committee member for the last 17 years, I would like to express my thanks to Keith for the enormous body of work that he very consistently, professionally, and diligently performed, not to mention the amount of sacrifice and sheer hard work in supporting our state registered members and the hair and barber industry in general during the pandemic!

“I have had the pleasure of both getting to know Keith personally plus working with him, he will be a hard act as the ‘THBC’ Registrar to follow! A MASSIVE Achievement, THANK YOU Keith.”

Keith Conniford added: “It has been an honour and a privilege to work together with the Council, our members, and the industry this past seven years, but I believe it is the right time for the future development of the Council and me personally to now step down.

“Having navigated the Hair and Barber Council through two of the most challenging times for our members and the sector, namely Covid and the current cost of living crisis, there are new challenges that are and will face our industry in the future that will require definitive sight and vision.

“Our relationship with Westminster is the strongest than it has ever been with Ministers, BEIS and MPs actively seeking our help and guidance I firmly believe we are closer to our aim of compulsory registration than ever before.

“I wish Gareth and David great success in their respective roles as Registrar and Chair, I will miss you all enormously and this great industry that I have been part of for over 50 years.”

Gareth Penn the new Registrar steps up from being the Chair of the Finance Committee and has considerable sector and industry experience as Managing Director of the Good Salon Guide since 2004. Commenting on his appointment

Gareth said: “I am hugely excited and energised by the potential that the Hairdressing and Barber Council has and I am looking forward to building upon the excellent work that Keith has done over the last seven years.

“Keith, ably supported by Susan Scott, has worked tirelessly to push compulsory Registration and I’d like to join David Drew in thanking Keith for his dedication and hard work.”

On behalf of BarberEVO, we want to thank Keith for all that he has done for our industry – being a voice and an advocate for industry professionals, and guiding us through unprecedented times. Big thanks to you, Keith!

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GARETH PENN DAVID DREW Chairman Registrar

THE HAIR SYSTEMS GOING VIRAL...

AN AWARD-WINNING HAIR STYLIST AND TIKTOK STAR IS ON A MISSION TO SHINE THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE STIGMA ASSOCIATED WITH MALE HAIR LOSS AND HAIR REPLACEMENTS AS THE INNOVATIVE COMPANY HITS 2023 WITH OVER 24 MILLION TIKTOK VIEWS FOR THEIR EMOTIONAL, NON-SURGICAL HAIR TRANSFORMATIONS.

Novo Cabelo is one of the UK’s fastest growing Hair Replacement companies and the team are quite literally transforming the hair industry with their innovative, non-invasive hair replacement

Voted seventh Top 100 Influencers 2022 and Social Stylist of the Year finalist at the British Hairdressing Business Awards 2022, the company has racked up over 24 million TikTok views, two million likes and nearly 115k followers for the inspiring hair transformation reveals with clients travelling from across the world for the innovative hair replacement treatment.

The team at Novo Cabelo hit 2023 with an extra special transformation when Dan Cox who just turned 50 got in touch after seeing the ‘impressive reveals’ on TikTok. Dan had suffered with receding hair from the age of 25 and as he hit the pivotal moment in his life, he was keen to give the hair systems a go, and the results speak for themselves!

It’s estimated that in the UK approximately two thirds of men will face male pattern baldness, also called androgenic alopecia. It usually follows a pattern of receding hairline and hair thinning on the crown.

Rob Wood, Director at Novo Cabelo said:

“Hair loss has a big implication on both men and women and our hair systems are literally changing people’s lives. We are delighted with Dans reveal and to see the first-hand impressions are always moving. The transformations have been very emotional to witness, and we love to see the influx of video transformations from our Novo Pro approved and trained salons across the UK.”

The company has seen an explosive growth trajectory since inception with hundreds of hair transformations to date, 50 salon partners and 80 trained stylists across the UK trained in Novo Pro.

Salons who sign up to become a Novo Pro benefit from a specialised package of training and support. The hair system process for clients starts at £350 depending on the style of hair, lasting three to six months, with a refit every three to four weeks.

The team from Novo Cabelo heavily invest in their training and are continuously expanding the number of Novo Pro approved salons across the UK. To find out more about their training packages visit: novocabelo.co.uk/training

35

ALARM BELLS ARE RINGING IN THE SHAW HOUSE! THE WAKE UP CALL HAS HAPPENED (NOT THAT I SHOULD HAVE WAITED FOR IT) I’VE BEEN FEELIN’ PRETTY RUBBISH FOR A FEW MONTHS WHICH RESULTED IN ME FINDING OUT THAT I HAVE EXTREMELY HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE.

To be honest, I didn’t really know what my BP should have been, but at its highest it was 196 over 116. I should be aiming for 140 over 80, that’s the normal measure. I’m on tabs and really trying to work at losing the weight. However, I’ve stopped drinking and smoking so here’s to a healthier ‘23! Get ya BP done guys – it is something we don’t even think about.

Anyways, that enough about me moaning, hope you guys are all well and getting ready for Q2 of

IF YOUR ABSENCE NEVER BOTHERS THEM, YOUR PRESENCE NEVER MATTERED IN THE FIRST PLACE.

SHAW SAYS

WAHL GOLD MAGIC CLIP AND GOLD DETAILER.

wahl.co.uk

the year. Lots of amazing product launches on their way, starting with the brand-new Wahl Professional Vanish Shaver which will be hitting your stores soon. New clippers, trimmers, and chargers all being launched in 2023 it’s going to be a biggie.

P.s. Barber, barbershop and a brand NEW Wahl award is to be launched this year, and the final is to be hosted at Barber Connect 2023… That’s a BarberEVO exclusive.

36
SHOP SHOUT

PROJECT MEN ‘23.

DIARY BBOTY

PROJECT: MEN

Charlie Baker has been to Wahl HQ for a couple of days with the Project Men guys. He also got the great news he will be starring on stage with the Wahl Artistic team at Barber Connect ‘23.

MARCH 5TH-6TH: PRO BEAUTY

MARCH 16TH - 2OTH COSMOPROF

JUNE 11TH – 12TH: BARBER CONNECT

We had a great two days at the Wahl Academy. One of the days the team spent with Wahl, myself and Dean Gleeson, and the next day was spent with Matakki, Emma Curd and Sam Campanga.

PROJECT DROP

Gold Magic Clip and Gold detailer The adjustable T-wide blade has titanium and DLC coatings so that blades stay cooler, are really strong and deliver consistent high performance. wahl.co.uk

EASTGATE BARBERS & CO

Owner Lee Tindle has created a great shop with five-star reviews coming from all sides. A great atmosphere and the guys are serving their community well with cuts for all ages. Location // Eastgate, Barnsley. Services // Cuts, shaving, beardtrims. eastgate-barbers.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 24TH – 25TH: PRO BEAUTY NORTH MANCHESTER

DROPPIN' LIKE IT'S

TOM

TF711 47Q 53 £209.00 // theopticshop.co.uk

HOT

These glasses feature transparent brown frames and green gradient mirrors.

barberbarber.com

are really nice.

COMPETITION WIN SIMON FOR A DAY ANNOUNCED!

Congratulations again to Lee Glover, the winner of the “Win Simon for a Day” competition. We will be seeing you in the academy soon for some one-on-one education and mentorship.

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LONDON
EXCEL
WORLDWIDE BOLOGNA
Barber Barber Freshen Up Bundle. They FORD SHADES

MARK MACIVER SliderCuts

OFFICIAL FRESHA BRAND AMBASSADOR

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BARBER OF 20+ YEARS, AUTHOR, SPEAKER AND EDUCATOR, MARK MACIVER (AKA @SLIDERCUTS) HAS JUST BEEN ANNOUNCED AS AN OFFICIAL FRESHA BRAND AMBASSADOR. ALREADY

A TRAILBLAZER IN THE INDUSTRY, MARK HAS UPGRADED TO FRESHA’S ALL-IN-ONE BUSINESS SOFTWARE TO ENHANCE HIS BUSINESS AND FIND EVEN GREATER SUCCESS IN THE INDUSTRY.

As someone who has built his own authentic brand and become a role model and leader in the barbering industry, Mark told us that he isn’t likely to partner or represent just any brand. He said: “I understand the influence that I have in the barber society, and because of this, I want to be careful of the brands I work with, to ensure that they are genuine, authentic, and really do bring value to barbers lives and businesses. For me, Fresha’s software completely passed that test, it has incredibly high standards, and it is a brand that I am happy to put my name behind and to recommend to my community.”

Mark is a big believer in and speaks well about the importance of community, and Fresha’s goal is to empower community leaders, such as Mark. He said: “I believe this is one of the reasons I was chosen for this position, because Fresha recognized that not only am I a fairly influential barber, but I care about integrity, and I truly care about my community.”

For Mark, the barbershop should be a pillar of its community, and he works to ensure that his shop gives back and helps his local community thrive and grow. One of the ways he does this is through a mentorship runner scheme he runs with local youth. He explained: “We have a handful of boys who live within a few miles of the shop, who come in every Saturday, and we mentor them, pay them for their work, and offer them helpful life skills, like teaching them how to do stock counts and counting the till. Through giving these boys this responsibility and accountability, it gives them higher confidence, helps them think better for themselves, and apply these skills to many other aspects of life. If they are wanting to, we will also teach them to cut hair, but we will also help them with whatever other goals they have in life.”

Speaking to Mark, it is clear that this is not just a philanthropy scheme to look good, he truly does care about these young lads and their success. For example, he told us that one of the boys he mentors is currently going through his GCSEs, and was struggling in one subject in particular. So, Mark paid for a tutor to help support his mentee to get through this subject. He said: “Yeah, paying for the tutor for a few months might cost £700, but if that better grade can help his life forever, then of course it is worth it. That is just a small seed which can lead him to a better, successful life, and that is always the goal. I want to show him that you don’t give up on something just because it’s difficult.”

Mark believes that more barbershops should be engaging with their communities, giving back and offering support. He said: “To me, a barbershop is where everyone comes together. We are like the spiderweb of connection from everyone, whether you’re in the corporate world to the trades. I can't think of any other business that has everybody from all walks of life that come into that same business. In the barbering world, there's no class divide, in one day, you could cut the hair of a heavyweight champion of the world, a judge, a lawyer, an accountant, a tradesman, a troubled young kid, you name it. The barbershop is where these people can come together. So, why not use that common

platform you have, to bring people together and help lift each other up?”

We asked Mark if he had any rolemodels growing up who inspired him to become the man he is today. He said: “I didn’t have just one role model specifically, but I had quite a few people who inspired me along the way. I never had one person in front of me who resembled the exact type of person I wanted to become, but there were many people who inspired different elements along the way, different puzzle pieces of me to create the person I am today.”

So, what stood out to Mark about Fresha, and how does it differ from other platforms? He said: “I went to their office in London, and I liked the fact of how many engineers they had, and that their engineers and customer service is based in London. As it gave me that reassurance that if anything goes wrong, there is a team locally based, right there, ready to help you, rather than being outsourced to a call centre where you can wait hours to speak to someone. I just really liked the fact that it is local.”

We asked Mark about how he believes this partnership will lead to elevating the Fresha brand, and improving it for barbers. He said: “I met with

Fresha’s owner, and he expressed to me that my thoughts and input will be listened to and considered. He explained to me how much thought, consideration and testing goes into every feature and element of the Fresha platform, and how much they value the feedback from industry professionals.

“For me, a leading barbershop management platform like Fresha, should be all about making life easier and take work off barbers’ hands, to make their work life easier and more efficient.”

For Mark, the key to success and growth is about being open to new opportunities and being open to new things to spark your creativity. We asked Mark – how can Fresha help unlock some of your valuable tie, and allow barbers to take advantage of new opportunities? He said: “Not only does Fresha allow you to better organise your time, and save you time in the process – which is key to allow you explore new ventures, opportunities and creative ideas, but it also offers so many business resources for free to its users that can be so inspiring and valuable when it comes to taking the next steps as a barber or business owner. Fresha is so much more than just a software.”

“A LEADING BARBERSHOP MANAGEMENT PLATFORM LIKE FRESHA, SHOULD BE ALL ABOUT MAKING LIFE EASIER AND TAKE WORK OFF BARBERS’ HANDS, TO MAKE THEIR WORK LIFE EASIER AND MORE EFFICIENT.”

I, PERSONALLY, AM GOING TO USE [THE COLLECTION] IN EVERY POSSIBLE WAY. I’M GOING TO PRESENT IT AS INSPIRATION TO MY STYLISTS AND THEIR CLIENTS, ESPECIALLY THE YOUNGER ONES THAT ARE VERY MUCH ROCKING THE LONGER, SHAGGY LOOK THAT IS VERY ON-TREND RIGHT NOW.”

BEHIND THE SCENES OF

Ac-id

WHAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF 1990S ENGLAND? ACID WASH JEANS? “I WANNA BE ADORED” BY THE STONE ROSES? SHAGGY, TEXTURED HAIRCUTS? WE SPOKE TO PHOENIX THOMSON, GLOBAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR OF AMERICAN CREW AND PAUL WILSON, GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF AMERICAN CREW ALL ABOUT THEIR NEW ‘90S INSPIRED AC-ID COLLECTION AND HOW THEY BROUGHT IT TO LIFE.

So, let’s hear about the inspiration behind Ac-iD. Phoenix said: “The inspiration behind Ac-iD stemmed from the resurgence of fashion from the early ‘90s. Growing up in the UK during that time, there was a strong sense of evolution in hair and music. We wanted to pay homage to bands like The Stone Roses, The Charlatans, and Primal Scream. Moving on from the hairspray and structure of ‘new romantic’ hair in the late ’80s, the style evolved into looser, more casual, textured shapes.”

What did the mood board look like? “My mood board could have been 40,000 pages

long between outfits and music that inspired me for this collection. Diving back into the youth culture of the UK in the ‘90s, everyone was wearing oversized tees, baggy jeans, and bucket hats. Fashion was gender neutral, which really resonates with what’s happening in the industry now; very much less for “men” or “women” which I absolutely love. As for inspiration, I let our stylist, Mark Anthony, just roll with it. He grew up in the UK in that era, so he was the absolute best for choosing wardrobe for the shoot because he totally understood it.”

We asked Paul what his favourite part of the collection was. He said: “My favourite part of the collection is that this is such a strong, editorial message for our brand and the fact that we haven’t done that in a while makes it even that much more impactful. The highlights for me are having such strong, structured shapes, texture changes, the hair coming down around the face, and weight that sits so differently from our classic work. I just love the fact that we’re able to make a statement while being true to the language of American Crew as a brand.” 

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Phoenix added: “My highlight was introducing rounder shapes with a new curriculum. There are six new haircuts included in this collection, all that can be learned and completed in a class format over a two-day period.”

I know it’s like asking someone to tell us who their favourite child is, but I asked Paul what some of his favourite looks from the collection were. He said: “Oh man, that’s tough, but I’ll have to go with Seb and Charlie. All these looks were styled with natural fall. Normally, we push the hair back and off the face. Letting hair fall forward makes these shapes so cool, and the styling and the texture that was applied is so true to what we were creating.”

I asked Paul what his favourite products were while creating the collection. Paul said: “My personal favourite? Fiber Grooming Foam, undoubtedly. It builds and fills out the hair so well. We used so much of it during this shoot… sometimes on damp hair, sometimes on dry hair, and sometimes for surface texture and shape. And we also used our iconic Fiber styling puck for finishing touches on the shorter lengths, which really tied the look together beautifully.”

What was the most memorable part of the shoot? Paul said: “For me, working with this group and to be shooting in a place that was such a big part of the inspiration for the collection, and to be able to collaborate with Phoenix.”

What will the Ac-iD Collection bring to professional artists around the world? Phoenix said: “It introduces a technical curriculum

to showcase the excellence of longer hair, round shapes, and texture. It also focuses on graduation, which is rare in barbering, but an important skill set. These cuts and styles are a lot looser, and the shape is built rather than removed. We want to encourage professionals’ confidence to create roundness and fullness in a shape and to be experimental. I hope this collection creates some fun nostalgia and is a proper representation of UK style in the ‘90s, but with a modern edge. And for anyone not familiar, I hope the imagery and fashion bring some excitement and inspiration.”

Paul added: “I think it’s going to be utterly inspiring. The shapes and the ways that we utilize the AC method method will give a fresh take on what we do creatively. We always try to arm pros with not only the latest in trends, but the technique and the product to achieve them – and this unique collection will give them just that.

“I, personally, am going to use it in every possible way. I’m going to present it as inspiration to my stylists and their clients, especially the younger ones that are very much rocking the longer, shaggy look that is very on-trend right now. I want to teach it technically – the lessons and fresh applications into a new set of shapes.”

To find out more about the Ac-iD collection, send a DM to @americancrew on Instagram or reach out to us at info@americancrew.com and we will direct you to the American Crew representative in your local region. •

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“MY PERSONAL FAVOURITE? FIBER GROOMING FOAM, UNDOUBTEDLY. IT BUILDS AND FILLS OUT THE HAIR SO WELL. WE USED SO MUCH OF IT DURING THIS SHOOT… SOMETIMES ON DAMP HAIR, SOMETIMES ON DRY HAIR, AND SOMETIMES FOR SURFACE TEXTURE AND SHAPE.”
FOR YOU JOIN THE CREW CHOOSE THE PUCK Scan to become an American Crew Customer or email customerservice.uk@revlon.com or customerservice.ire@revlon.com americancrew.com

WE’RE SEEING MORE AND MORE ADVENTUROUS CUTS AND COLOURS AS THE LINES BETWEEN HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING BEGIN TO BLUR. WE BROUGHT SOME OF THE BIGGEST NAMES IN STYLING TOGETHER TO GIVE YOU THE LOWDOWN ON BECOMING THE BEST.

BABYLISS PRO AMBASSADOR TARIQ HOWES, HAS ALMOST 20 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN BARBERING AND STYLING. AFTER YEARS AS A SESSION STYLIST, TARIQ HAS PERFECTED HIS SKILLSET IN GETTING THE PERFECT SHOT.

Tariq is based in Cardiff, Wales, at his Avenue Male Grooming barbershop. And having ventured from the behind the chair into session styling, he has realised that there’s a whole new element involved when styling for a fashion shoot.

He said: “Obviously, styling is a big part of hairdressing, but ever since I’ve gone into session work styling can almost become just as, if not more, important than the cutting. And that almost becomes a skillset of its own. You have to understand hair and how to manipulate it to create certain looks for fashionbased clients. It’s so important, and can be very different to what you would be used to in your shop.”

Picking up styling skills doesn’t just come to you in a blinding light of inspiration, you’ve got to put the time in, and Tariq has a few suggestions. 

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“The beautiful thing is nowadays there is so much choice for picking up skillsets i.e online courses, YouTube, Instagram, there are hands-on and look and learn courses, but you can obviously find face to face learning as well. For me, nothing is better than being on a job and assisting somebody, that for me has been the best learning curve.”

Tariq picks up his own inspiration to avoid complacency by being around other forward thinking stylists. He adds: “For me, I always feel the most inspired and motivated when around other stylists. Whether that’s in another shop seeing how people operate or on-set working with or assisting another creative, I have been inspired by working with great photographers and fashion stylists. I think the trick is always being around talented people; that way you will always be motivated and avoid feeling complacent.”

In his shop at this time of year, Tariq is seeing the circular change in trends, and what is being requested is taper fades.

“I’m seeing a lot of requests especially from my clients with textured hair, asking for taper fades. A lot of inspiration comes from the footballing world and in a particular, a young player called Jude Bellingham, who sported this cut during the World Cup.

“It is created by having a short to medium length cut and by fading out the sideburns area down to skin and also the nape area using my BaByliss PRO clippers and foil shavers, while lining up around the ears and also the fringe area with my trimmers. To style the cut I would apply a moisturising conditioner into the hair, then use a curl sponge to separate and define the curls.”

“BaByliss PRO have recently launched a few new ranges in the UK and I’ve been so excited to get stuck into using them.

One of the most anticipated launches has been the LoPro Clipper and Trimmers. Lightweight and nimble, the design of the tools, along with the graphite blades and powerful motor makes them a serious team for anyone’s kit. I can’t get enough.

“Then we have CustomFX, which is a new customisable spin on the original Super Motor lineup. With all the cutting power we’ve come to expect from these tools, now fully tailored to match your brand – you can even get free engraving for a real bespoke finish. The colourway I went for (if you’re interested) is a mix of Rose Gold and Matt Black. It looks incredible.” @tariqhowes @babylissprouk •

I THINK THE TRICK IS ALWAYS BEING AROUND TALENTED PEOPLE, THAT WAY YOU WILL ALWAYS BE MOTIVATED AND AVOID FEELING COMPLACENT.”

ONE OF THE MOST ANTICIPATED LAUNCHES HAS BEEN THE LOPRO CLIPPER AND TRIMMERS. LIGHTWEIGHT AND NIMBLE, THE DESIGN OF THE TOOLS, ALONG WITH THE GRAPHITE BLADES AND POWERFUL MOTOR MAKES THEM A SERIOUS TEAM FOR ANYONE’S KIT. I CAN’T GET ENOUGH.”

BABYLISS PRO HAVE RECENTLY LAUNCHED A FEW NEW RANGES IN THE UK AND I’VE BEEN SO EXCITED TO GET STUCK INTO USING THEM.”

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AFTER 22 YEARS IN THE INDUSTRY, MULTI AWARD-WINNING ARTIST AND EDUCATOR BRANDON MESSINGER KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT CUTTING AND STYLING. HE TOLD US HOW HE USES DENMAN BRUSHES TO CREATE SLEEK, ROBUST, AND PHOTO-READY LOOKS FOR MALE, FEMALE, AND NON-BINARY HAIR.

After two decades of working in salons, on stages, and on shoots, the award-winning hair artist now educates hundreds of talented hair professionals on how to make sure every look – whether it’s commercial or editorial – is as sleek and refined as the next. This master stylist said that his proudest achievements to date are being part of the FAME Team, his shortlists in six British Hairdressing Awards Finals and the double whammy silver wins at the Wella TrendVision Awards. We spoke about working with both longer and shorter hair, and how he uses Denman brushes to create contemporary genderless hairstyles that are not only incredibly cool but future-ready as well.

What was Brandon’s key to creating astounding styles? Answer: Denman brushes. So, what drew him to Denman as a brand? “Nothing. Every hairdresser and barber knows who Denman are just by default so I didn't need to seek them out at all.” It wasn’t until he heard about their Stage Star comp that Brandon wanted to become more involved. The team told him he wasn’t allowed to enter because he was, ‘too good’. “From the inception of my career, Denman was always there, so it was a no-brainer to use them as my go-to tools and also exciting when I got to work with them.” Brandon has now been with the brand for seven years and said: “Denman aren’t like normal brands. They give their teams the creative freedom to use their brushes and promote their work in whatever ways they want. There's genuine support from good people there and I think that’s something that sets them apart.” We wanted to know, what are his top three Denman tools? “The D3 Original Styler has been my top go-to for wrap drying (mostly shorter hair lengths) for years. I tell every stylist I work with that if they want to create a true straight, sleek look, they need to learn how to wrap dry – and the D3 is the perfect tool to use.

“The D38 Power Paddle is my next go-to. I use it all the time for wrapping long hair – it really speeds things up, smoothing and detangling easily.

“Next, is the Thermo Ceramic Range, which include radial brushes, straightening brushes, a scalp massager, and paddles that range from 20mm to 72mm. Some come with bristles and some without, so everyone has an option.”

How does Brandon use these top three tools?

The

Original Styler – “I use this on bobs and crops for sleek, shiny finishes. The D3 pins naturally promote tension in the hair and tension is the only thing that creates shine.”

Power Paddle – “Before the Power Paddle came out, I’d use the D3 for longer hair as well, but now I have the option to customise. The surface size of the Paddle makes movement really easy, so it’s kinder on the wrists and helps reduce RSI.”

Thermo Ceramic Range – “I use these tools for adding bends and curls to all lengths. They’re amazing for putting curls into a bouncy blowdry. I normally start a blowdry with my D3 and then go in with the Thermo Ceramic. It’s far easier to boost from the root using the D3; then curling the body and ends with the Thermo Ceramic radial brushes.”

Genderless style is getting ever more popular, so the concept of hairdressing-specific tools and barber-specific tools is disappearing. We wanted to know: how can barbers use Denman tools to provide more versatility when creating nonbinary looks? “The main thing with gender fluid hairstyles is the composition, not necessarily the tools. For example, by utilising different forms of disconnection, you can create unique looks that marry shorter lengths with longer lengths. And then it’s just a case of finishing it. People love that lived-in, lifted look, so I’ll be using a diffuser and using my fingers to spread any mousse or hairspray through. An essential part of genderless styles like mullets and shags is distributing product well, so I’ll use a Denman D6 Be-Bop Massage Brush to make sure all product is distributed properly.”

Finally, how can barbers stay creative when cutting shorter, male hair? “Barbering 101 is that you create square lines. Hairdressing follows triangular lines. Where you take your angles is how you achieve a more head-hugging or non-binary look. When moving from shorter hair into mid to long styles, try shifting the angles and focus on graduation. For more masculine, stay focussed on working off the face using square cutting lines and natural textures to finish.”

Find Brandon on IG as @brandonmessingerhair and Denman are at denmanbrush.com

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“THE THING ABOUT DENMAN IS THAT THEY AREN’T LIKE NORMAL BRANDS. THEY GIVE AMBASSADORS AND TEAMS THE CREATIVE FREEDOM TO USE THEIR BRUSHES AND PROMOTE THEIR WORK IN WHATEVER WAYS THEY WANT.”
D3
Sign-up for your Denman Trade Account for 20% o RRP www.denmanbrush.com @denmanpro Tools to detangle, style and finish natural and created curls Detangle with the D6 Be Bop Brush, D90L Tangle Tamer, D38 Power Paddle. Style with the D3 Original Styler and D4 9 Row. Finish with the D25 Fantail comb and D17 Curl Volumiser. UNLEASH THOSE CURLS WITH DENMAN prof si al

AMERICA'S NUMBER ONE MEN’S STYLING BRAND* AMERICAN CREW HAS JUST INTRODUCED ITS NEWEST CAMPAIGN FOR 2023: ‘JOIN THE CREW’. THE CAMPAIGN CELEBRATES THE BRAND’S BROAD RANGE OF ENTHUSIASTS AND INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS, INVITING ALL HAIR AFICIONADOS AROUND THE WORLD TO BRING OUT THEIR BEST, UNIQUE SELVES WITH AMERICAN CREW. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE FOUNDER OF AMERICAN CREW, DAVID RACCUGLIA, ABOUT THE NEW CAMPAIGN, AND AN INSIDER PEEK AT THEIR ICONIC STYLING PUCKS.

American Crew first launched in 1994 with six core products and has since evolved into a multi-faceted portfolio – with styling pucks leading the charge. With this new campaign, American Crew aims to bring to life the evolution of the brand’s core DNA, inspiring users to find the best styling product for their hair type and desired look. From light-hold creams to heavy-

hold pomades, the campaign encourages all hair enthusiasts to find the go-to styling puck that suits their individuality and helps them feel their best.

We asked David Raccuglia about his thoughts on the newest campaign. He said: “We really wanted to highlight the range of our best-selling, core products, which are our ten American Crew styling

pucks. This campaign was developed with all hair types, textures, and diversities in mind to help guide anyone looking to achieve a desired result or find the best product for their hair. From lightweight pastes to heavy hold pomades, we want all hair enthusiasts to find their ‘go-to’ styling puck to suit their hair individuality –and ultimately look and feel their best.” 

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* REVLON calculation based on NielsenIQ ScanTrack Service for the Men’s Hair Care Styling Products category for the 52-week period ending 8/27/22, the Total U.S. market, xAOC. Copyright © 2022 Nielsen Consumer LLC.

AMERICAN CREW PUCKS ARE EXTREMELY VERSATILE. STYLISTS AND BARBERS HAVE A RANGE OF CLIENTS, ALL WITH DIFFERENT HAIR TEXTURES AND LENGTHS – AND ALL WITH DIFFERENT DESIRES AND NEEDS.”

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As can be seen in the campaign images, with these pucks at hand, the possibilities are limitless. No matter the hair type, hairstyle, and individual style of the client, with this collection of products, you can create anything you put your mind to – from 1950’s quiffs, 1960’s mullets, 1970’s curls, and so much more. This collection proves that anything is achievable.

Whether it’s WFH-casual or a night out on the town, each high-performing American Crew styling puck has its own unique touch for specific hair textures, cuts, densities, and lengths to achieve different results. From light-hold creams to heavy-hold pomades, hair pros can easily find their go-to styling puck to unleash their creativity and create all the latest looks.

Ian Harrold, American Crew All Star Educator said: “For me, the art of creating a great finished look is all about having the right products to hand. With American Crew pucks in my kit bag, I know that I have a texture and grip to create every possibility.”

David Raccuglia, Founder of American Crew added: “To be the best styling brand for all, we feel we have the best arsenal of products to service the professional category.”

It has been nearly 30 years since David first launched American Crew with the first six products, and since then the industry and the brand have seen some major changes. We asked David to tell us the history behind the pucks, and why they are so important in today’s world.

He said: “One of the pucks, Pomade, was actually one of the first six products – and it’s still one of our best-sellers to this day! Each puck was formulated for a certain hair texture, cut, density, and length, so there really is a puck for everyone. It seems like ten styling pucks is a lot, but stylists and barbers, as well as our at-home users, can

face serious challenges if they don’t have the right products to use, and with the number of different hair textures that exist, it’s important to offer different styling variations.

“Our styling pucks are some of my favourites within the American Crew product line because their formulas are tried and true – it’s been almost 30 years of making sure we have the perfect formula for each hair type. I also love them because they are great for travel, and I love the ability to mix and match to create different looks. The options are endless!”

American Crew always has the wants and needs of professionals at the forefront of its mission when developing products, and these pucks are no exception. David said: “American Crew pucks are extremely versatile. Stylists and barbers have a range of clients, all with different hair textures and lengths – and all with different desires and needs. With 10 different variations, Pros love our assortment of best-selling pucks because we have a puck for every hair type!”

So, the million-dollar question is, does David Raccuglia have a favourite puck? He said: “That’s too difficult of a question for me to answer! I love so many of them and all for different reasons, depending on what look I’m feeling for that day. But I have to say right now my favourite is Whip. Whip is our rookie and newest launch within the puck collection.

“It’s perfect for straight or wavy hair to create the casual, floppy hair look that's very popular right now. Its airy, whipped formula creates a subtle texture and control for a relaxed look. You can layer and style as needed to achieve your desired result without weighing the hair down. It works great on all hair types, and an added bonus, it's very easy to wash out.” •

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Get the freshest looks at your fingertips with American Crew’s complete collection of 10 styling pucks. Find your perfect puck and other grooming tips by following @americancrewuk on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and visit americancrew.com
WITH 10 DIFFERENT VARIATIONS, PROS LOVE OUR ASSORTMENT OF BEST-SELLING PUCKS BECAUSE WE HAVE A PUCK FOR EVERY HAIR TYPE!”
“TO BE THE BEST STYLING BRAND FOR ALL, WE FEEL WE HAVE THE BEST ARSENAL OF PRODUCTS TO SERVICE THE PROFESSIONAL CATEGORY.”
FOR YOU JOIN THE CREW CHOOSE THE PUCK Scan to become an American Crew Customer or email customerservice.uk@revlon.com or customerservice.ire@revlon.com americancrew.com

Spuk began his career in the hair industry 17 years ago, back in Romania. For the first five years of his career, Spuk’s focus was more on hairdressing, and as time went on, he finessed his skills in colour and styling, and then shifted into barbering. Seven years ago, Spuk made his move to London. He then opened Master Barbers shop in London, before opening his current three-man studio, Spuk Studio in Edgware, London.

A long-time fan of Slick Gorilla Products, Spuk was invited to the Leeds-based brand’s seven day pop-up at BoxPark in London back in October 2022. Spuk said: “After meeting the Slick Gorilla team, they contacted me to become an ambassador for their brand.”

Slick Gorilla’s Hair Styling Powder was the first product that caught Spuk’s interest, making him a fan for life. “I really fell in love with the Slick Gorilla Styling Powder, then the Lightwork Styling Cream came along, and I fell in love with that too. They have recently released styling combs as well which are great for finishing hair.”

I asked Spuk what the most common hairstyles are that he has been requested in the last few months. He said: “Lately I have been doing a lot of crops, quiffs, and then the short buzz with will never go away. As well as, of course, the mullet.”

As much as many different brands and influencers might lead you to believe, you don’t actually need to have dozens of products at your station to create all of your clients’ favourite styles.

OWNER OF SPUK STUDIO IN LONDON AND SLICK GORILLA AMBASSADOR, SPUK THE BARBER IS ALL ABOUT FINE FINISHES WHEN IT COMES TO BARBERING. WHILE A GOOD CUT IS THE BEST FOUNDATION, A GOOD STYLE IS THE CHERRY ON TOP. SPUK SHARED HIS TOP PRODUCTS FOR MIXING AND MATCHING TO CREATE THE PERFECT RESULT.

Spuk and Slick Gorilla are perfect examples of this. Spuk said: “I can create almost any style I want with just the Slick Gorilla Styling Powder and the Slick Gorilla Lightwork. When I am creating crops and quiffs, I will combine both to give the shape and hold I am looking for.”

I asked Spuk to walk us through his cocktailing process. He said: “I always start with dry hair and apply the styling powder. It offers a medium to strong hold and helps you create texture in the hair.

“Then I will put some of the Slick Gorilla Lightwork into my hand and rub it through the hair to add some moisture and hold to the hair. The combination of these two products offers the perfect amount of hold so that the style stays put, but its movable and reworkable throughout the day.”

For styling, Spuk sticks to his tried and tested tools. He said: “To me, all you really need is a reliable hairdryer, with a diffusor, and a good comb. My dryer of choice is the Gamma IQ Perfetto. I had tried other driers out in the past, but they would start to lose power after about six months. With the Perfetto, I have had it for three years and it is still as powerful as powerful as the day I got it.

“Then for combs, I am a big fan of Slick Gorilla’s new Texture Comb. Regardless of the style and length of the hair, it gives you really nice separation, and adds texture and polish to the final look.”

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“I CAN CREATE ALMOST ANY STYLE I WANT WITH JUST THE SLICK GORILLA STYLING POWDER AND THE SLICK GORILLA LIGHTWORK ”
THE ULTIMATE BEAUTY EXPERIENCE barber: @v.hugostyles photographer: @jbh.studios NEXT LEVEL EDUCATION, HOTTEST BRANDS & LATEST TRENDS CALIFORNIA APRIL 2-3, 2023 ANAHEIM FLORIDA ORLANDO JUNE 3-5, 2023 TEXAS SAN ANTONIO OCTOBER 1-2, 2023 OHIO COLUMBUS OCTOBER 8-9, 2023 LEARN MORE! PREMIERESHOWS.COM | 800-335-7469 | BARBER BATTLE COMPETITION powered BY: SPONSORED BY: Featuring

All barbers like to know more about the tools they use and how they’ll help them do their job to the best of their ability, so I thought I'd ask leading barbers about their favourite Artero tools. I get to work with great barbers and their expert knowledge about what to look for when choosing tools is worthwhile listening to! Every day, I spend my time educating students at Head Quarters Barbering Academy and I've realised that even students want to work with the best tools. Our courses have just received approval as a City & Guilds Centre to offer Level 2 & 3 NVQ in Barbering! So, when it comes to ordering my student kits, I make sure all the following items are included in the kits so that the barbers

journey starts with the best of the best! Love More believes that perfecting your skills starts with using great equipment, so here's my own favourites. I love the Artero Spektra Clipper because it’s full of punches! LED display and controls sit neatly on top of the clipper, behind the blades, making it easy to control all the functions it offers. What I find useful, is how easy it is to adjust the motor speed and blade lengths. It also comes with clipper guards and you can order different length blades that easily clip onto the body. If you’re looking for a smooth-cutting and accurate machine, this is for you. Get 10% discount with Love More on all Artero tools shown by visiting signaturehouse.co.uk

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LAST MONTH, WE DELVED INTO THE LOVE MORE BRAND TO FIND OUT WHY ERIC BELIEVES THAT POSITIVITY AND HUMAN KINDNESS IS THE KEY TO TOP-CLASS BARBERING. IN THIS ISSUE, HE SPEAKS TO THREE EXTREMELY TALENTED BARBERS TO FIND OUT WHAT TOOLS THEY LOVE AND WHY.

IVAN FERNANDEZ REYES

Spain’s Got Talent Contestant, OMC Hairworld World Team Runner Up, and owner of his own barbershop in Cadiz, Spain

Ivan first switched onto barbering at 11-years-old when he saw his older brother using a beard trimmer. At 15, he started his first shop job. Since then, he’s competed in some of the biggest competitions in the world, opened his own barbershop, and proudly uses Artero tools to create his best work, which ranges from fades to hair art – he recently cut a portrait of Wednesday Adams into one of his client’s hair. His go-to tool? The Artero Bambina Trimmer. I asked Ivan why the Bambina is his top choice. Here’s what he told me: “Artero’s Bambina Trimmer is undoubtedly the most powerful trimmer on the market! It makes drawing lines easy, meaning no need to go over designs with a knife. They’ve significantly reduced the time it takes to carry out a design. I can use this machine for practically all other services that I perform in my barbershop, from designing synthetic animal skins to creating replicas of world-renowned pieces of art. This trimmer easily supports cutting any type of hair, whether it's a human style or animal print.”

FABIO PELLEGRINO

Master Barber, Educator, Owner of Shark Killer, and Founder of International Barber Convention Fabio trained when he was 16 and was educating others by the time he reached his 21st birthday. As owner of six barbershops in Rome, he cuts dozens of styles every day. His faithful tool is the Artero Poker Clipper. He told me why: “The strong point of Artero clippers is their balanced weight. It gives me stability both in the hair and on the beard. In addition to stability, the hair receives a softer cut – the same effect that scissors give.

“They’re also perfectly calibrated so don’t pinch the client, even around ears, lips, and nose. The battery is always present and lasts a long time, which makes for incredible reliability.

“I always say, ‘make cuts simple, because if they’re simple they can be duplicated’, and that’s why I love the Poker Clipper – it has the versatility and staying power to let you do this.”

ARTERO POKER CORDLESS HAIR CLIPPER

Another professional hair clipper that can be used with or without the cord, adding versatility depending on your preference.

signaturehouse.co.uk

ARTERO BAMBINA HAIR CORDLESS TRIMMER

This pro hair trimmer has a usage time of 65 minutes. It has a straight blade edge or 0.1mm with carbon and chrome t-blades. Charging time is eight hours.

signaturehouse.co.uk

ARTERO SPEKTRA CLIPPER

This digitally controlled professional hair clipper can be used with or without the cord. Has a usage time of 250 minutes and charging time of 180 minutes.

signaturehouse.co.uk

Benn started his career at 19, studying in Durham whilst working as an apprentice barber in the city centre. You can’t learn this incredible craft with theory alone, so watching the experts do their thing in the shop was the best way to immerse himself in the culture of the industry. Being in a university city meant Benn had opportunities to cut all ranges of diverse hair, refining his craft in all the important ways.

I asked him where he finds inspiration?

“When I started barbering, I found myself watching all the Schorem videos. I loved their approach of mastering old-school cuts. Now, I’m inspired by Alan Beak, Hayden Cassidy, Jarred Liddinton, Menspire, and Rum Barber. The main thing I take from these people is that barbering doesn’t have to be as black and white as ‘just cutting hair’. That’s what fuels me to keep at it.”

Benn told me that his most-used and mostloved tool is the Artero Mystery Cutting and Thinning Scissor. He revealed why: “I’ve been

using the Mystery Scissors and Thinners for a while now and they’re a work horse set!

“The scissors are made from high-quality steel and have razor-sharp concave blades. I find they’ll do any technique I chuck at them, from scissor over comb and blunt cutting to slicing, point cutting, and overall texture work. I’ve never had any issues cutting through any hair density.

“The Mystery thinners also have the same concave blade and have 30 curved teeth that take around 15% of the hair. This makes it perfect for creating a much softer look to the haircut whilst helping add gentle texture to my cuts.

“The skull detail makes them interesting to look at as well. My clients notice it often and love it! But funnily enough, I find it functional because I feel the texture in the design helps me grip the scissor better.”

ARTERO MYSTERY CUTTING AND THINNING SCISSOR

The pack contains the two scissors in a 6" size with Japanese 440C steel. An all-round scissor, great to use with all hair types, from fine to thick. The thinning scissors have 30 teeth, allowing for accuracy and blending.

signaturehouse.co.uk

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OWNER OF SKILLS BARBERSHOP

ARTERO AMBASSADOR

TOLD US ABOUT HER CAREER IN BARBERING, HER EXPERIENCE WITH EDUCATION, AND WHY SHE BELIEVES ARTERO’S SCISSORS ARE THE BEST ON THE MARKET.

Sonia has been in the industry for almost 15 years and is just as excited about barbering as she was when she first started. Since 2009, she’s worked in both female and male image, taken hundreds of courses, and done her bit educating both inexperienced and experienced hair professionals to continue the constant evolution of the hair worlds. She said: “I've been working in this industry since I was 16 years old and I have many many more to come,” she laughed. “I love what I do, and I am passionate about my career. I give it all my good energy, my time, and my passion. I think that's the key to a long and happy career. And learning from likeminded people and sharing what you learn along the way.”

Sonia specialises in education now and works with her team at Skills Barbershop. She told us: “I specialise in men's hairdressing, advising the model on how to wear the look and the barber on how to execute it with the right technique. I’d say my scissor work is what best defines me.”

Sonia has been using Artero tools to create her most impressive and refined work from the very first day of her career. She remembers starting with a pair of their scissors and has never looked back. When we asked her why she was drawn to the brand, Sonia told us: “It feels like I have been working with Artero all my life! But I started collaborating with them more closely just one year ago. I was drawn to them simply because I believe in them; their product and the quality that they promise with every tool.”

What is Sonia’s favourite Artero tool? She revealed: “My Artero 5" Exakta Hair Cutting Scissors are the best and lightest scissors I’ve ever used. They’re made from VG-10 steel and have razor edge with concave blades. They also have removable finger rests and a ball bearing screw connection. They’re my trusty set for most longer styles and tidying up shorter cuts as well.”

already after last year too.”

We wanted to know how Sonia would go about creating these longer, very casual styles. She explained: “I’d be defaulting to my Artero 5” Exakta Hair Cutting Scissor and my clippers! My hairdryer and styling tools are very important for me too – a lot of any look comes together in the finishing stages, especially with shorter hair.”

How do styles in Spain differ from those in the UK? Or do they change at all? Sonia told us: “Yes! They change a lot or will look slightly different mainly because of the climate. Our warmer climate will influence the thickness of the cut and length as well. The lengths tend to be shorter, but the hair itself tends to be more porous in Spain as well, and the textures are different. However, for the most part, each look is based off of and grows from very similar trends.”

Find Sonia on Instagram as @snav_grooming

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“MY ARTERO 5" EXAKTA HAIR CUTTING SCISSOR IS THE BEST AND LIGHTEST SCISSOR I’VE EVER USED.”
SINCE 1909

THE ROTTERDAM-BASED BARBER, MASTER STYLIST, AND OWNER OF GIOS CHOP SHOP, GIO UKTOLSEJA, TELLS US ABOUT HIS FAVOURITE STYLING PRODUCTS – AND WHY OIL CAN GROOMING IS YOUR GOTO FOR STYLING PRODUCTS THAT MAKE EVERY HAIR TEXTURE LOOK SLEEK AND STYLISH. HE’S DONE IT ALL – AND HAS ADVICE THAT YOU CAN TRUST.

Gio told us that when it comes to styling incredible looks that turn heads, you need to be as creative as possible with the products you use – not just in your vision for each client. How does this styling master stay imaginative? He revealed: “I cocktail everything! You have to judge the mixes you use based on the client and what style they want. My formula that I tell everyone is: if the client wants a greasy or high-volume look, start by putting a clay or paste in the roots. And then if someone wants to have a sleeker look, I use a water-based product to begin with. But if it’s raining outside, I’ll put a little bit of grease on top to provide some cover!”

What trends does the respected barber predict for the year ahead? He doesn’t abide by trends himself, but Gio gave us some insight into what he thinks clients will be looking for. His verdict: “Asian hair trends are hugely popular right now, mostly inspired by Manga and Anime shows. We’re also generally seeing a lot of diversity in cuts right now because the lines between hairdressing and barbering are blurring – in the best way – as genderless style becomes more mainstream.”

He continued: “Long hair is popular in both sides of the industry now as well as the undercut and super creative colour. You also see a lot of

changes in the barbering communities around the world, which often seep into other countries on what I think is a 10-year trend cycle. This year’s is some 90’s influence, more impressive colour, and less fades.”

Oil Can Grooming is Gio’s ride-or-die brand. As an ambassador, he’s helped them with shoots and uses their products in his shop every day. He advised us about the best products and how you can use them to create every style, from short textured cuts to slick-back curls. Gio couldn’t wait to tell us: “The new grooming and styling product range, Benchmark, is incredible – I can’t get enough of the Grooming Spray, Sea Salt Spray, and Styling Powder. They work across all styles. I use the sea salt spray for textured beach styles, and the powder to give curly hair a more volumised look – it’s also great for the roots to liven up any style.

“For more styling you have Oil Can’s Grease Tin range – including two pomades, a clay, a cream, and a paste.”

When it comes to styling textured crops: “I like the Crafting Clay a lot. It has a heavy hold, so you want to be careful when using it with clients who have lighter, thinner hair. I would advise the Styling Paste for that because the clay is almost

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like a cement, best for textured cuts and styling wild, crazy looks that need a lot of strong hold. So would be great if you’re working on sets or doing some session style work for the camera.

“I’d say as well, if you like the clay from Oil Can Grooming, but it’s too hard for the style, mix it with the paste to make it more workable and softer. It isn’t as intense, and you’ll get a little bit more shine with it.”

Mixing products correctly for the right style also depends on the amounts you use. Gio suggests what to do if you’re looking for a real slicked back look; if you want the greasy shine to be the star of the show. He said: “If you use proper oil-based grease, you have to use a lot, because you want to have a build up for the hair. You also cannot wash it, and a lot of people don’t know that. Everyone always wants to wash the grease out but it’s actually a building-up process so you have to allow time to let it set so that it sits correctly – even beyond the chair.” Oil Can’s Grease Pomade is unique and unorthodox in that it is water-based and washes out easily even after building up. Gio recommends: "It's good for the slick styles, or if you have really tight classic curl cuts and you want a greasy look. It has medium hold and the look of an oil-based grease but is easier to wash out."

Most of the products from Oil Can Grooming are water-based, so you have to know the right amount to use and do it with purpose, Gio continued: “For example, if you’re doing a

textured crop, you don’t want the greasy look, so I would go for the Benchmark Styling Powder first and then a little bit of Crafting Clay at the ends to bring it together and provide protection.”

The Oil Can Grooming hair styling range is notorious for working with all textures, too. Gio uses: “The Blue Collar Original Pomade, also water-based, and particularly good for Asian hair, which is known for its straightness, dark pigmentation, and large diameter. The black can is the Classic Cream and I use it for tight curly hair or wavy hair because you can blow-dry with it, even when the hair is thick."

Oil Can’s products don’t just look good, they smell incredible too. Gio’s experience is: “Men and women love the smells – there’s something for everyone, whether it’s smokier or slightly sweeter.”

Oil Can Grooming also have facial hair grooming covered! Gio said: “The Angel’s Share, Blue Collar and Iron Horse beard oils work in a similar way to their styling products, adding some life to the facial hair. I love that these cans have droppers and not a pipette – this makes them easy to work with. You only need two or three drops so they’re great quality and value for money.”

Styling men’s hair is Gio’s speciality and he shared some final advice for other barbers looking to perfect their styling skills: “Get to know your own creativity by playing with different products – not everything is binary and you can alter the way you style and use the products as you see fit

for your client, and to execute your vision. You might want a look but can’t create it unless you try to mix everything around a bit. So, just use your imagination!” Also! “Brands like to see creative looks that have been made with their products, so if you want to attract the attention of a certain brand, get creative with a selection of your favourite products of theirs.”

Find Gio on Instagram as @giothenewkidofficial and Oil Can Grooming are @oilcangrooming

For more information about their products and becoming a stockist, visit oilcangrooming.com

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“THE NEW GROOMING AND STYLING PRODUCT RANGE FROM OIL CAN GROOMING, BENCHMARK, IS INCREDIBLE – I CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF THE GROOMING SPRAY, SEA SALT SPRAY, AND STYLING POWDER.”
Photography by Huck Mountain - Instagram @huck93
“I COCKTAIL EVERYTHING! YOU HAVE TO JUDGE THE MIXES YOU USE BASED ON THE CLIENT AND WHAT STYLE THEY WANT.”

WE KNOW KENNY DUNCAN AS A LOT OF THINGS – BARBEREVO NORTH AMRICA COLUMNIST, INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR, ARTISTIC LEAD FOR ANDIS CLIPPERS, CONTENT CREATOR FOR LUSTER’S SCURL, AND GO-TO BARBER FOR THE PHILLY 76ERS. BUT WHAT YOU MAY NOT KNOW, IS THAT KENNY OFTEN FINDS HIMSELF ON MOVIE SETS, HELPING TO CREATE THE CHARACTERS WE SEE ON SCREEN. HE SHARES WHAT THIS EXPERIENCE IS LIKE.

My mentors Stacey Kutz and Pierce Austin informed me that working in the hair and makeup trailer is totally different than working in a barbershop. The first thing they encouraged me to do was to look to the hair department head for instructions on what each actor should look like. The second thing they led me to do was read the script and the sides for each day you work. Understanding each character you’re working with and what they expected to do and look like that day matters. For instance, if your talent is supposed to be locked up for several months their hair shouldn’t look like it came straight from the barber chair. Also, if an actor has a stand-in or a double for any scene, it’s my job to duplicate a character, and not just do a haircut. I have found myself creating and working with wigs, hairpieces, and even creating life-like beards which have to endure everything an actor goes through through the course of the day's shooting.

Over the years I’ve implemented the ideas learned from my mentors and it has afforded me the opportunity to keep being hired for TV shows, commercials, and films. Last summer

I’ve groomed NBA All-Star Joel Embiid for an Under Armour commercial, and a Google Pixel commercial. I’ve also groomed Jimmy Butler for the following brand commercials: Tag Heuer, ALO, and two for Essentia Water.

The current project I’m working on is a movie called “Call Her King” featuring Naturi Naughton,

Lance Gross, Jason Mitchell, and Nicolas Turturro. The interesting part I want to share is that a part of my job is to groom Lance Gross and his stunt double. Grooming Lance is the easy part, it’s making someone else look like the lead actor certainly has its challenges. I have to change hair texture and use industry secrets to alter his hair to look exactly like Lance Gross. I rely on Luster’s SCurl products to help create Lance’s characters and I must do the same for his stunt double. If I were grooming both gentlemen in my barbershop I would have two different final looks, but for this movie, I must do everything possible to alter hairlines, beard shapes, and curl patterns to best prepare all talents sitting in my chair for this project.

Every day we are given a call sheet the evening before we work and are expected to arrive before talent so that we can be prepared. Each person is given a time frame to see wardrobe, hair, and makeup, then to arrive on set for rehearsals. It’s our job, in the hair and makeup trailer, to prepare talent for greatness on set in every way possible. The preparation I’ve received from mentors, and the prior experiences I’ve had working with premium products and premium tools has given me the confidence to work well in high-stress environments such as a movie set with excellence. I owe it all to all who have helped build a versatile skill set, and Luster’s SCurl and Andis for making quality products and tools that I can rely on consistently.

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S-Curl® Beard Collection is expertly developed with high-functioning natural ingredients; the SCurl Beard Collection offers the ultimate in beard care for men of color. Each formula nourishes and produces fuller, ultramanageable, healthy-looking beards. Along with superior grooming capabilities, our Beard Collection promotes the comfort and well-being of the facial skin beneath.

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HAIR IS A MAGICAL THING AND IN YOUR LIFETIME AS A BARBER, YOU WILL NEVER CUT THE SAME HAIR TWICE. EVERY HEAD OF HAIR IS DIFFERENT. EVERYONE'S GROWTH PATTERNS ARE DIFFERENT AND LEARNING HOW TO ADAPT TECHNIQUES TO PRECISELY DEAL WITH THE VARYING HEADS OF HAIR AND STYLES REQUESTED FROM CLIENTS TAKES A LOT OF PRACTICE. I HAVE OVER 28 YEARS IN THE INDUSTRY AND THERE'S NOT A DAY THAT GOES BY I DON'T LEARN SOMETHING NEW ABOUT HAIR.

Every barber has their own struggles with specific hair types and cutting techniques. It depends on what cut you are trying to achieve and certain hair characteristics which can affect that. It's up to you as a barber to expand your skills and knowledge to be able to advise and execute to a high standard. It could be fading grainy and patchy hair, long styles, Afro hair, or cutting and styling poker-straight hair.

It's hard to write about one specific difficult hair type, but I'll share some of the difficulties and the solutions of two of the extremes: poker straight and curly hair. One bit of advice I will give though, is to work with the hair, not against it. Curly hair is a perfect example of this and can be a challenge as the degree of curl can cause issues with cutting. Also managing the bounce back is difficult if you've never been shown the correct technique or what to look for before you take off length. Blending quite often does not

look smooth. If the curl is on the tighter side, it can be tricky as the hair moves in different directions. Also styling curly hair needs a ‘less is more’ approach unless you are totally changing the hair state to smooth and straight. This is where being realistic with your client comes in. At the end of the day, they are not going to achieve the same results at home unless they are fantastic with a hairdryer and have the correct products.

Pictures are a great way to manage expectations and plan the cut. As I mentioned earlier, working with natural hair is always best and I would first determine the length. Long and short styles both work fantastic on curly hair. Longer can be dried either with a diffuser, or finger dried with a curl-defining product. My super curl definer is Uppercut Beard Balm or shorter and cropped with a matte salt spray or Easy hold to maintain that wave.

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“NINE TIMES OUT OF 10, AT THE ACADEMY WE GET SHOWN A PICTURE OF HAIR THAT COMES INTO A LOVELY QUIFF, OR CLASSIC BY CLIENTS WITH THIS HAIR TYPE. STUDENTS USUALLY SAY TO ME IT CAN'T BE DONE... BUT IT CAN!”

Faded or longer on the side? Or maybe a taper? Look at the bend in the hair. Is it a loose S or more of a coil? Determine the desired length and let the hair bounce back into its natural state in your fingers to see if it looks correct before you cut. I usually use the fringe area or blending area for this. Use a cutting agent to help control the sectioning for smoother cutting. I use Uppercut Foam Tonic on wet hair. When cutting, fold the hair forward over your fingers so it's controlled and you can see the blade of the scissors clearly. Use small short snips, so the cutting line is straighter.

I always angle my scissors slightly higher. So, I just use the points and I find my cuts are more controlled. Leaving a slight disconnect from the fringe to the ear, either along the parietal ridge or side depending on the height of the shape line, on a long curly style works really well. Over-blending can spoil the shape on the sides. Blending using clipper over comb can be difficult, so either use a comb and pull down slightly the shape line in the opposite direction to pull curls through, or use block graduation with fingers horizontally and pulling down to the same area. Both techniques connect the hair to the sides and leave the layers above graduated without spoiling the shape. I would choose to cut through the comb as I find using this technique is so much more natural with hair that has a bounce, I put it through my comb rather than stretching hair out too much. Also, on fringe areas that may have cowlicks or widows’ peaks. I achieve a much better finish and balance this way.

Strong, straight hair can be a challenge as it's so stubborn, but I just love it. It usually grows straight out of the scalp at an angle of close to 90 degrees which can challenge a lot of barbers when blending. I've seen so many people with

straight difficult hair with choppy, messy short styles. Also, spiked flattops are perfect for these clients. Nine times out of 10, at the academy we get shown a picture of hair that comes into a lovely quiff, or classic by clients with this hair type. Students usually say to me it can't be done... but it can!

First of all, choose what to do with the back and sides. Skin fades work if you can get your spacing correct and plan a wide enough blending area, as blending is usually creating a shape with the hair rather than a connection that's soft. The comb needs to be straight and square otherwise you get a triangle wedge shape. Big combs are fantastic if you struggle with this as they can help create a smooth, square shape. Leaving a little length on the top rather than cropping the hair makes it more pliable once you take away its strength. For this you will either need deep point cuts or my preference for this hair type is the tapered mesh technique. The thinning scissors are used to take the linear structure away and create a more flexible structure. Hold a section of hair, then thin through the midlengths and then the ends. This leaves scaffolding from mid-length down, for volume, and a lovely bend mid-length through to the ends.

A student once referred to this technique as ‘snapping the hairs back’. I liked that as it makes total sense, as you are taking away its strength. You'll find that blow drying and styling are super easy after this. At the end of the day, clients must be able to replicate this easily at home. I would recommend Uppercut Pomade in either a shiny or a matte finish to complement the classic style, a stronghold to keep the hair in the perfect place. And voila!

I hope you can take a tip or two away from this article. It's easier to read than it was to write.

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“WORK WITH THE HAIR, NOT AGAINST IT.”

MARIA NOVIKOV HAS BEEN WITH MR. BARBERS RIGHT SINCE THE BEGINNING, STARTING AS AN ASSISTANT WHEN SHE WAS JUST 14 AT THE SAFFRON WALDEN SHOP, MR. BARBERS’ FIRST EVER LOCATION. FROM THERE, SHE HAS GROWN TO BECOME A STAPLE IN THE MR. BARBERS COMMUNITY, HAVING WON MR. BARBERS’ BARBER OF THE YEAR IN 2022. ACCORDING TO MARIA, THE SECRET IS ALL IN THE SERVICE.

Maria first caught the barbering bug when she was 14, getting a part-time job at Mr. Barbers. Fast forward a few years, when her classmates were deciding which universities to attend, Maria decided to go against the grain and instead start a career in barbering. Mr. Barbers recognised the potential in Maria and brought her on to train as a barber in the shop.

Maria said: “Choosing to go into barbering over uni was the first time in my life that I didn’t just follow the crowd. And it was the best decision I ever made. I just loved the atmosphere and environment of being around the barbershop. I think I got to do my first haircut on my 18th birthday. I have been with Mr. Barbers now for 12 years, and throughout that time I have helped open new locations, trained new barbers, and now I am the manager at Bury St Edmunds. It has been such a nice place to work as a young person, and now I really feel like Mr. Barbers is my home.”

I asked Maria what it has been like being a part of the Mr. Barbers family as it has grown from one location to 15. She said: “Even though the brand has grown a lot in the 12 years I have been around, I feel like it is still a very tight group of people who want to connect and support each other.”

“I love attending our Holiday Party/ Mr. Barbers Awards Night every year, because it gives us all a chance to get to know barbers from the other shops, and all get to know each other.”

At the most recent Mr. Barbers award evening, Maria walked home with the starring prize: the Barber of the Year trophy. In her years at Mr. Barbers, she has previously won Young Ambassador of the Year, and Young Barber of the year, but Barber of the Year was a real milestone for Maria. She said: “It was so nice to get recognition for my work and my time with

the brand. To me, being a barber is about much more than just cutting hair. It is about building relationships with clients and giving them the best service that will make them walk away feeling happy, satisfied, and ready to book back in. It is nice to know that those elements don’t go unnoticed –by the clients, nor by Mr. Barbers.”

Learning never stops when you are a barber. I asked Maria how she stays current and on top of the latest trends and tools. She said: “Going to barber conventions like BarberConnect has always inspired me. I love that we get the opportunity to learn from the best barbers in the biz, like Sam Rascals and Josh OP, and learn all about the latest trends, skills, and techniques. Now that I am a manager, I am encouraging fellow barbers to attend events like this to keep up education and development of their skills, and to stay inspired and passionate.”

Aside from staying on top of the latest trends, and keeping her skills sharp, I asked Maria what are the keys to ensuring her clients feel well taken care of and are happy with their hairstyle. She said: “Again, for me, it is all about making relationships with clients, it all comes down to consultations, attention to detail and client experience.

“In your consultation, you need to figure out what the client is envisioning. I find clients can sometimes be embarrassed to show example photos, but they are key to understanding what they want, as they don’t always know how to explain it in the right words. Once you have an idea of what they want, it’s time for you to show your expertise and explain to them what will be achievable. They might not have the same hair type, density or lifestyle as the model in the picture, so you need to work out how to get as close to it, in a way that the client will be able to maintain.

“It is also important to get to know your client’s lifestyle and routine. Are they someone who is willing to spend more than ten minutes everyday styling? What products are they comfortable using? Do they use a hairdryer? Knowing these things can help you manage expectations and find a solution that fits their needs.

“Attention to detail and education is also essential. Show your clients that you are the expert that they can trust. Educate them as you are styling and give them product recommendations. Once you have clients who trust and believe in your ability, you will be the one they go to for more adventurous and creative cuts, expanding your skillset and confidence even more.”

Finally, client comfort is something that Maria cares deeply about: “You can have the best skills in the world, but if you don’t know how to connect with your clients, then you won’t be able to build a solid foundation of returning clients. Understanding your clients is the key to giving them a barbershop experience that they will feel completely satisfied with.”

If you are looking to grow in the barbering industry, then MR. Barbers is the company to work with.

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“FOR ME, IT IS ALL ABOUT MAKING RELATIONSHIPS WITH CLIENTS, IT ALL COMES DOWN TO CONSULTATIONS, ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND CLIENT EXPERIENCE.”

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AVAILABLE IN MAY!

Alan

AB's

BARBER OF THE MONTH

ANDRE MACEDO @ANDREMACEDO ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

Andre is a Portuguese barber based in Zurich, Switzerland. I first met Andre when he was working at the legendary Savills in Sheffield. He was utterly obsessed with hair and becoming a barber. Over the years, I’ve watched him take barbering men’s hair and fashion to a whole new level. I love that he’s always sharing his journey and doesn’t shy away from sharing what he’s learnt with his personal experiences. He just goes to show what determination, passion, and hard work can achieve.

WHO IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD GIVE ALAN BEAK A COLUMN? LITTLE PERSON, BIG MOUTH! I HAD THIS SENT TO ME ON ONE OF MY STORIES AND TO BE QUITE FRANK I TOOK IT AS A COMPLIMENT.

If I can’t be tall, then I’ll be loud. I’ve got to get seen and heard somehow, so I want to start by saying thank you to BarberEVO for giving me this opportunity. I’ve always been a massive overthinker, sometimes it’s a blessing and sometimes it’s a curse. But for these columns I want to try and talk about relevant subjects that involve US! The grafters, the stand on your feet 10 hours-adayers! We are the soldiers in the field doing all we can to make a living and name for ourselves

and my God, we don’t get the credit that we deserve. So this is me thinking out loud, and hopefully having a giggle along the way. If there are any issues or topics you would like to discuss then please drop me a message on any social media channel, Instagram, LinkedIn, Facebook, Grindr. Also, if you have a question that you would like featured, post it on your stories, tag me in it and use the hashtag #askalan

AB's

CUT OF THE MONTH

BENJAMIN PITT @BENJAMINPITTHAIR

LONDON BASED HAIR STYLIST

This is such a simple and beautiful cut done by Ben. It’s soft and wavy, working with the natural texture of the hair and cut into a modern mod style.

“WE ALL WANT MORE! MORE LIKES, FOLLOWERS, CLIENTS, TOOLS, MONEY. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR PREPARED TO WORK HARDER, LONGER AND SMARTER FOR IT!”

With pandemics, job losses, and a rise in the cost of living, all these factors play a massive influence as to whether people are getting their hair done every two weeks or every six weeks. It’s a luxury that some people have learnt to 'drag out’. For us, that means loss of earnings. Haircut frequency has definitely declined. We’ve had the uncertainty of how busy we are going to be, the fear of losing staff. I’ve stood behind the chair and listened to fellow barbers telling me they’re leaving to be cleaners, labourers and retraining in another field. It’s been one hell of a tough time. And personally, I think we’ve got the shitty end of the stick. For years we’ve honed our craft, invested too much time, effort and money to get to where we are at now, and for it all to be taken away from us so aggressively leaves me lost for words. Most people got help from the Government, but it was only a short-term solution. Every iota of the media was plastered with death and fear, isn’t it any wonder why the service industry began failing. Human beings thrive on social interaction and for two years it was pretty much illegal to interact socially. Some people have lost lives, jobs and money, and some have survived through all the blood sweat and tears, and to those who have made it, I’m so proud of you. And you should be proud of yourselves. If you’ve got this far and not had to close and are still going (that’s an amazing feat) then what’s coming is your time. You did it. Well done!

It’s not what has happened to us, it’s how. We are a resilient bunch of badasses and how we reacted to it that’s what’s important. Are we sitting down moping and moaning, or are you up doing something about it? It’s so easy to get sucked into a quick fix of dopamine, diving into social media and getting lost in a marathon of scrolling on Tik Tok or Instagram. Don’t get me wrong, I'm guilty of a scrollathon too. Once you’re in, you’re in. It takes one hell of a snack or disruption to get you out of it. The point I'm trying to get across is this quick (or long) fix is instant gratification and creates idleness and laziness, it will drain the life out of you. What’s the best thing you could do with your time?

THERE’S ABSOLUTELY NO DENYING THAT THE LAST THREE YEARS HAVE BEEN AN ABSOLUTE SHITSHOW FOR EVERYONE IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY.

How do you find the motivation on the days that you just can’t be bothered?

LEON SOUTHERN FRODSHAM, CHESHIRE

Alan BLOOD, SWEAT AND SHEARS...

“IF YOU’VE GOT THIS FAR AND NOT HAD TO CLOSE AND ARE STILL GOING, THAT’S AN AMAZING FEAT, THEN WHAT’S COMING IS YOUR TIME. YOU DID IT. WELL DONE!”

This is a common question I get asked and I have to share the misconception that I’m always motivated. I am very much like everyone else in the fact that some days, I don’t even want to get out of bed let alone come to work. The answer really is routine. I have daily habits and rituals, simple things like getting up with the kids and walking the dog. Once I start the routine, it’s all just comes together and staying consistent means whether I want to or not I get up and get things done that need to be done. Planning your day the night before always helps, that way your accountable to your plan.

Where is the best place to take on new staff from, other shops or colleges?

TONY CAIRNEY EAST KILBRIDE, SCOTLAND

Taking on new staff is always a challenge. But for me whenever we are trying to find someone new it’s always about the person, their attitude and their work ethic, their social skills and ability to communicate. People can be amazing but they can also be dicks. I want nothing more than a team that all get along perfectly well and shower their clients with attention and care. Always remember you can train someone to be a better barber, but you can’t train them to be a nicer person.

What’s the best way to market my business?

Self-progression, growth and development is the new gangster, it’s the new cool. The better you are as a person, and the happier you are with yourself makes a mega human being and a person that others want to be around.

If the start of the year is a quiet one, then use it productively. Use the time to upskill, learn something new, become better at what you already do, learn how to market yourself, your business and look for other revenue streams. Clean and revamp your shop, do whatever it takes to always exceed the expectations of your client. Make them happy and you’ll be happier.

LEE HANDFORD

CARMARTHEN, WALES

Plain and simple… WORD OF MOUTH!!

There’s no better way to market your business than through the mouth of you existing clients. Your haircuts are a walking talking business card. So, spend as much time as you can making your client look and feel amazing, and I assure you, your clientele will grow month on month.

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LIAM THOMSON IS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF LOVETTS BARBERSHOPS IN DUNDEE AND ABERDEEN, SCOTLAND. PREVIOUS SCOTTISH BARBER OF THE YEAR, HE’S ALSO A PROUD GAMMA+ AMBASSADOR. WE SPOKE ABOUT GENDERLESS STYLE AND HOW TO CREATE CONTEMPORARY FUTURE-READY LOOKS WITH GAMMA+ TOOLS.

Liam is an award-winning barber and passionate about delivering top class male image and grooming services for every person that steps through his shop doors. His go-to tool brand is Gamma+ and has been for years. As an ambassador, he told us what drew him to the brand: “Gamma+ was a brand that I first used a few years ago and I’ve never looked back. I initially contacted the brand about becoming an ambassador as I loved the clippers. Shortly after my win at the Scottish hair and beauty awards, we sealed the deal.”

The barber embraces every style that comes his way, working hard to anticipate and master trends so he can give every client confidence. Liam rocks long hair himself, so continually refines his skills in cutting for all lengths. We wondered, how can stylists use Gamma+ tools to refine or add interest to longer cuts? Liam shared advice: “Gamma+ do a full range of versatile hairdressing tools so you aren't limited depending on what length of hair you’re working with.”

He continued: “I’ve seen other barbers and stylist use certain tools, such as a clipper, in place of scissors when layering or using them to create texture in place of point cutting. Personally, it's not something I have put to practice as I love to use my scissors and razors, but absolutely for doing undercuts I always use my Gamma+ Ergo Clipper.”

On the other hand, how can barbers use Gamma+ tools to energise and modernise shorter classic cuts, like a buzzcut or a swept back pompadour? Liam told us: “Techniques and trends are always evolving, and the classic cuts are evolving too. Styles such as buzzcuts and pomps, where before we would have seen them with strong outlines, we’re now seeing them with very dramatic tapers at the back and strong edge-ups framing the face. Having the best tools available just makes it easier to get great results every time.”

Genderless style is getting ever more popular, so the concept of hairdressing-specific tools and

LIAM’S GAMMA+ GO-TOS

1 Ergo Clipper – these are the best clippers I’ve ever used. They’re powerful, quiet, ergonomically shaped, and come fitted with click lever, which aids with precision fading. They also come with three colour options, so you can chop and change the appearance to suit you!

2 Absolute Alpha Clipper

2.0 – these were the first pair of clippers I purchased from the brand and ones I would recommend to anyone. Compared to others, it's very lightweight, comes with great quality blades, and a click lever.

3 Boosted Modular Super

barber-specific tools is disappearing. We want to know: can barbers use clippers to provide more versatility when creating non-binary looks in all different hair lengths? Liam said: “Personally, I don't think certain tools can be gendered. A man can have long hair and a woman can have short hair, regardless of someone's gender or what they identify as. When it comes to cutting/styling hair, you should just do what makes you and your client’s feel good and not worry about social conformities.”

encountered a lot in the barbershop before, was that haircuts would be very short and sharp at the exterior. They’re becoming longer on the interior, so our main tools used would be clipper and trimmers around the edges. But recently, we've seen that flip with the revival of the mullet and longer hair, so we've been using feather razors way more now to create soft and loose finishes on the exterior of haircuts.”

can stay creative with how they use classic tools to create contemporary styles. He said: “Creativity must come from the stylist or barber and is dependent on the client’s needs. Even when tools were more primitive, people never stopped creating something new and ground-breaking. Take Vidal Sassoon for example. As the tools advance, we must not become stagnant. Find inspiration from other stylists/barbers you look up to and take calculated risks when you can.”

Torque Motor Clipper – I imagine most people would have these ranked first because everyone I work with and other barbers I've spoken to, love them. They’re super light, super powerful, and come with a robust all-black case that you can swap for other colours. They feel like a heavy-duty clipper without the weight.

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ARE YOU, LIKE MANY A BARBER, SOMETIMES GUILTY OF REPRODUCING THE SAME OLD HAIRCUT, TO THE SAME CLIENT AGAIN AND AGAIN, WITHOUT EVEN A THOUGHT OF ‘SWITCHING THINGS UP’ A LITTLE? HERE ARE A FEW TIPS ON HOW TO GET TO KNOW YOUR CLIENTS BETTER, AND IN TURN, GIVE THEM THE STYLE THEY’VE ALWAYS WANTED!

Over the years behind a chair, I have constantly strived to reinvent my cutting techniques alongside trends and creative ideas, using the advancement of up-to-date tools, products, and inspirations from things around me and in media and modern everyday life.

‘Switching up’ a client, can result in retaining their loyalty, progressing their confidence in you,

and enabling the continued connection with that client in the long term.

So, how do we look to restyling a client who wants a change but doesn’t know what they want or how to explain what they like?

Several factors can drive a client to this action, maybe a lifestyle change, a job change, an increase in age, or a relationship change.

We are constantly looking to evolve and wishing to make the most of ourselves, and with a change of hairstyle, we can certainly make an instant impact on personal image change.

To start with, the client must get to KNOW, LIKE and TRUST you. This may sound silly, but throughout my career, this is the key factor to client base building and becoming creative with your client.

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HERE ARE SOME TIPS I USE WHEN ‘SWITCHING UP’ A CLIENT’S LOOK:

• Make sure you are thinking about the client’s facial shape when discussing hair length, the shape of the cut or the severity of a new look.

• Age is a factor – what would suit a young client, may not necessarily suit someone of an older age. Be mindful and guide the client.

• What elements do they like in a style they’ve seen that has influenced them to make this decision? The use of social media platforms to view desired hairstyles is an obvious source of inspiration, but also look to use Google images, which is a great way to draw up the conversation of change.

• Ask the client to find or save four images they like the look of – film stars, sports stars, TV celebrities etc. Amongst the four images, you as a professional will find one or two common denominators – this is the image that the client may be drawn to but may be unaware subconsciously that that is what they are searching for in a restyle.

- Use this to start the design and discuss what would suit them, with this idea in mind.

- T his is a safe, direct, and positive way to produce a suitable restyle for a client.

- T he smallest change can be impactful for a client, so take it in stages, if necessary, to retain their confidence in your skillset.

- Hair type, lifestyle, age, and practicality will all be key factors in creating the client’s new look.

• Introduce colour –  I dare you! With clients a little more adventurous, why not introduce colour – increasing your column content, as well as your customer spend, but this will add definition and depth to a new or current style, giving it that unique personal look created just for them.

MY GO-TO TOOLS FOR

A restyle will introduce an additional revenue stream too! – aftercare and new styling products are a must to be introduced to the client, to maintain, experiment and enhance their new improved look. Do they currently use products when styling? If not, would they like to? With a little help and guidance from you of course, plus there is a clear opportunity to supply and retail the correct products for the clients’ needs (Know, Like and Trust once again) how to use them correctly, how much to use, when and how to style the new cut to perfection using the tools and products suggested. Product sales also assist in keeping the client with you going forward. You are his/her ‘go-to’ expert, remember!

Empowering the client with the ability to take control of their new look, will not only give them new additional confidence, but you as the expert can part knowledge, support, and guidance to the client as they embrace this new look. This will, in turn, give good reason for the client to recommend, refer and return to you and purchase ongoing retail from you too.

If you are fortunate enough to be in a team daily, then feel empowered and look around you at the team that works alongside you too, watching what they are producing, asking questions, understanding techniques and watching what products they use, what they hope to gain from them, and how they work their chairs. What has become your and the team’s signature cuts this year? What trends are evolving? Discuss what you’ve found and seen with one another. This team mentality can only improve the salon and the clientele they serve.

I am fortunate to work with the very best tools in the business, Andis clippers and SPENCER scissors daily. New tools are created and inspired by new and returning trends, sometimes revisiting old styles, but working in new ways and with advanced tools. This becomes so important as to assist us in producing the right cuts, shapes and lengths when creating the required style.

So personal investment in your education, updating your tools and your product knowledge and the range used will always be of financial benefit in your career.

Never stop investing in yourself, and you never stop learning, because life never stops teaching you.

My supporting tools: A classic Denman D3 styling brush, Pro Tip styling brush, and Denman pompadour comb for finishing.

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“EMPOWERING THE CLIENT WITH THE ABILITY TO TAKE CONTROL OF THEIR NEW LOOK, WILL NOT ONLY GIVE THEM NEW ADDITIONAL CONFIDENCE, BUT YOU AS THE EXPERT CAN EMPART KNOWLEDGE, SUPPORT, AND GUIDANCE TO THE CLIENT AS THEY EMBRACE THIS NEW LOOK.”
CONTACT KEVIN, @KEVINVORLEY, ON 01277 652272. WWW.KBARBERS.CO.UK / INFO@KBARBER.COM
My go-to products: K Shaper, Morgans Matt Pomade, Morgans Oudh and Amber slick Pomade, K Sea-salt spray, K Extreme and K Matte Grooming Paste. All styles created by and image property of Kevin Vorley

DENMAN LUXURY BEECH WOOD CLUB BRUSH

With 100% natural boar bristle to smooth and shine. Ideal for retailing to clients.

£18.50 // denmanbrush.com

Sign up for a trade account for 20% discount

AMERICAN CREW CREAM POMADE

Developed for a lived-in look that offers textured movement with a low-shine finish. The Cream Pomade works well for fine to dense hair, and short and medium styles.

americancrew.com

ARTERO OIL FRESH

A cooling and disinfecting spray. Oil Fresh will help give your blades and scissors a much longer working-life. Simply spray in the joint of the scissors or on your blades after use. This cleans, disinfects and lubricates the edges keeping them rust-free and sharper for longer.

artero.co.uk

AMERICAN CREW GROOMING CREAM

Use to create a straight, sleek look or to soften naturally curly hair with the conditioning elements this contains. Repels moisture to keep styles intact and provides excellent hold and shine. High hold, high shine.

ERGO CLIPPER

EDITOR’S CHOICE

MORGANS OUDH AND AMBER FIRM HOLD POMADE

With a turbocharged magnetic quiet motor, this fully modular clipper includes gold, rose gold, and chrome body to create different custom modifications. Adjustable blade can be easily zero gapped for the closest cut and finish.

£152.94 // gammaplus.co.uk

CAPTAIN FAWCETT POMADE COLLECTION

At Captain Fawcetts, the motto is: Keeping a Stiff Upper Quiff, Regardless. To do so, they ensure you have everything you need, from their Putty with a Slick Finish, Classic with a Gloss Finish, Clay with a Matt Finish, and highly anticipated product coming soon… Strong Hold with a Gloss Finish.

£19.00 // captainfawcett.com

A water soluable pomade, enriched with Keratin Amino Acid and Argan Oil. Comes in a recyclable glass jar. Offers a firm hold pomade that allows you to achieve a healthy shine with long lasting hold. 100g.

£12.00 // morganspomade.co.uk

ANDIS BESPOKE ™ TRIMMER

With wireless charging innovation and a sleek package to sculpt, polish and refine your cuts. The TSX-Z blade allows you to finish your haircuts with style and precision. andis.com

americancrew.com

FINI BY A-STAR MATTE PASTE

A unique formulation of matte paste with an oudh and black poppy fragrance. Gives a textured, matte finish and can be applied to dry hair for a natural look with strong hold, or apply to wet hair for a textured look.

£12.00 // chrisandsons.co.uk

BIG AL’S BEARD BALM MOMENTAI

Momentai is a phrase that means “to take a breath” or “be kind to yourself.” Suicide is the biggest killer of men under 30 and 75% of all suicides are committed by men 15-45 it’s a real issue and it needs be addressed. This new beard balm’s aim is to keep the conversation around mental health going so all proceeds of this limited edition balm will be donated to men’s mental health charity

Man Up to help the cause.

£5.00 // bigalsbeardclub.co.uk

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SupportBritishManufacturingandBuyBritish

sustainability

EARTH MONTH IS ON THE HORIZON! THERE’S NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT TO HEED THE ADVICE OF THIS ISSUE’S ECO EXPERTS. THIS IS HOW TO START BEING AS PASSIONATE ABOUT SUSTAINABLE BARBERING AS YOU ARE ABOUT CUTTING HAIR.

Photography// Sam James Photography

ROOTS UP sustainability from the

EXETER-BASED ALL-VEGAN BARBERSHOP AND EVENT/SOCIAL SPACE, THE ROOTS

FOUNDATION, USE CRUELTY-FREE PRODUCTS AND INCLUSIVE SERVICES TO BUILD A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS. CO-FOUNDERS PJ SHEPHERD (@CUTTHEPUNX) AND LUKE BURGON (@LUKEPAULTHEBARBER) CHATTED ABOUT MAKING BARBERING MORE ECO-CONSCIOUS AND WHERE TO START.

PJ has been vegan for almost 20 years. His involvement in the punk scene led him to discover many aspects of counterculture, including animal rights, activism, and veganism. Before cutting hair, he worked for PETA and has taken part in many protests, fundraisers, and direct actions.

For Luke, his move to a meat-free lifestyle was inspired by his travels as well as watching the documentary, Earthlings. PJ said: “Therefore, when the opportunity came up to create our own vegan space, we jumped on it!” PJ told the Roots story: “We opened in 2017 when Luke and I were hungry for change. We shared a vision of a new kind of shop: sustainable, ethically conscious, community-orientated, and most importantly, a place that was welcoming to everyone, regardless of age, gender identity or background. We're so lucky to have two fantastic barbers at our side, Liv Plummer (@livplumbarber) and Jake Hobbs (@jayhobbshair). Their work over the past few years has been phenomenal! They're assets to our team and we're really proud of them.” PJ said that it’s important to distinguish the term ‘vegan’ from the term ‘sustainable’. Veganism

seeks to eliminate as much suffering as possible through not participating in a system of animal exploitation. Sustainability seeks to reduce waste and our negative impact on the environment. He told us: “They’re invariably linked: animal agriculture is the single biggest factor contributing to climate change, so running your business without the use of animal exploitation will make your business more sustainable and environmentally friendly.”

Sustainability itself isn’t just about stocking the right products or changing your mindset –the concept goes one step further. It’s about empowering your community and continuing to share knowledge and expertise to eventually make eco-consciousness the norm. Part of The Roots Foundation's journey was making sure that every person feels welcome in their shop, where goals to stop animal cruelty and waste comes naturally. PJ told us: “Our services have always been consciously gender-affirming, and our pricing has always been non-gendered.” 

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Photography// Benjamin J. Borley Photography// The Roots Foundation

FOUNDATIONS OF SUSTAINABILITY

As part of that commitment, The Roots Foundation has recently become a Salon Alliance member of The Dresscode Project, a global alliance of salons/shops committed to providing positive, gender-affirming services for LGBTQIA+ clients. The team will also be hosting one GenderFree Haircut Club per year; a four-hour event providing free cuts for LGBTQIA+ youth. Find out more about the Dresscode Project’s work and how you can get involved at dresscodeproject.com

The founding duo believe in animal rights, sustainability, and compassion. For these reasons, having The Roots Foundation run as a fully vegan business was the logical thing for them to do. Five years have passed and they’ve earned the title as the UK’s first vegan barber shop. PJ said proudly: “Seeing changes in our industry and the addition of vegan products in shops and salons is cool. Hell, no mainstream publication would have been interested in printing this interview five years ago! We’re proud to be part of that and to have helped open the conversation in our local area and beyond.”

Let’s get into the practicalities of running a vegan barbershop. Firstly, what is their criteria for buying products? “For us to stock, retail, or use a product at The Roots Foundation, it must be four things: vegan (obviously), handmade, natural, and gender inclusive. Fact check these elements by contacting brands directly and finding out more about their ethos and mission statement.”

If the team can’t find products that fit their criteria, they make their own. PJ said: “We’re extremely proud to announce the launch of our

new 100% vegan and gender-inclusive hair, beard, and body brand: Hell Yes! Every product in the Hell Yes! range is developed and handmade by me in Exeter, using ethically-sourced ingredients. We currently make six products and hope to add more to our line in the future.”

The Hell Yes! range includes: I’m Flexi and I Know It Flexible Clay; Slick AF Classic Pomade; Kapow!-der Texture Powder/Dry Shampoo; Stay Weird Beard Balm; Rev-oil-ution Beard Oil; DeOh!-Dorant Stick Deodorant. Find them on social media @hellyessupplies or hellyessupplies.co.uk

Finally, PJ shared advice for professionals looking to take a deeper dive into making their barbershop a vegan and sustainable place: “Don’t feel like you must go all-in immediately. Discovering information about the issues surrounding animal exploitation, sustainability, and climate change can be overwhelming. Looking out for the animals and the planet is great, but make sure you’re looking after yourself too! There’s nothing wrong with doing things step by step, one day at a time. By doing research and taking your time, you’re showing that you genuinely care about the issues and are not just attempting to follow what could be considered a ‘trend’. Follow your heart, you’ll know what to do.

“And crucially, don’t hesitate to ask for help! Our DMs are always open to anyone that’s got any questions, and we love making new friends, so feel free to shoot us a message!”

Find The Roots Foundation team on Instagram as @therootsfoundationexeter •

1. Use a renewable energy supplier

“We use GEUK (formerly 'Green Energy'), but there are lots of others out there to rival the big energy companies.”

2. Link up with local vegan/eco-friendly businesses

“For example, we use a local all-vegan cleaning service to deep clean our shop, CleanEco. We use an eco-friendly company for cleaning supplies, Green My Business. We refill our washing up liquid and hand wash from our local zero-waste store, a few doors up the hill from us, Zero Exeter.”

3. Stock vegan products

“If you can stock ones that are handmade and natural too, as we do at The Roots Foundation, even better!”

4. Source leather-free chairs

“Like most animal exploitation, leather is linked to vast amounts of water wastage and deforestation. If you can’t find leather-free chairs, second-hand leather is still a big step in the right direction!”

There are lots of other things you can do on top of these suggestions. Our advice for now, though, would simply be to do your research and do what feels right for your business. You’ve got this!"

“EVERY PRODUCT IN THE HELL YES! RANGE IS DEVELOPED AND HANDMADE BY ME IN EXETER, USING ETHICALLY-SOURCED INGREDIENTS.”
HERE ARE FOUR WAYS TO START BEING MORE VEGAN AND SUSTAINABLE.
“ETHICS AND SUSTAINABILITY ARE AT THE ROOTS FOUNDATION’S CORE. WE WANT TO SPARK A CHANGE IN THE INDUSTRY AND ARE REALLY PROUD OF WHAT WE’VE ACHIEVED. SEVERAL BARBERSHOPS/SALONS ON OUR STREET NOW USE AND PROMOTE VEGAN PRODUCTS!”
Photography// The Roots Foundation
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Photography// The Roots Foundation Photography// Liam Oakes Hair by// Jake Hobbs Model// Allie Hill Photography// Liam Oakes Hair by// PJ Shepherd Model// Ruel February

OUR GUIDING PRINCIPLES ARE: POSITIVITY, INCLUSIVITY, COMPASSION.”

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Photography// The Roots Foundation

Eco friendly equals = =

Inclusivity

Firstly, we asked John to tell us a little bit about his background in the industry. He explained: "I started my career in the hairdressing industry over 12 years ago. When I left college after completing level three hairdressing and barbering, I felt as though I needed to make an impact and began doing as much as possible to grow my knowledge through education. I was 17, lived on my own, and had a full-time job at the local wholesalers. It was there where I learned about the industry from a manufacturing perspective. Everything from the products and processes to tools, equipment, sales and more. I absolutely fell in love with educating the industry on how to use all of the above. I found my true passion for education after I was approached to become a colour educator for a leading colour house in the UK. I gained an assessors award during my time with them.”

Fast forward seven years and John took a leap of faith to open his very own supply company, MrMr. Salon Supplies in 2017. Based in Lowestoft, Suffolk, MrMr. Salon Supplies carry an array of brands, including Gamma+, Insight Professional, Joewell, Dear Barber, OSMO, Wahl Professional, and many more. John said: “For the past six years, the company has grown from strength to strength. We're an eco-conscious company and strive to reduce the impact our industry has on the planet through selling only sustainable brands and consulting with salon businesses.”

John also gets to flex his education muscles, through educating with/for Insight Professional. He said: “I'm the Head of Commercial Education for

Insight Professional UK, a brand who are focused on sustainability for the hairdressing industry. In this role, I launched their education program."

I asked John why he believes sustainability is so important, especially when he's considering brands and products to work with. He said: “This industry is known for heavy use of water, chemicals, power, and creating waste and we need to change now!" Here are some tips...

"Think about biodegradable disposable towels instead of washing cotton ones. Use products with natural ingredients that aren’t tested on animals and upgrade your electrical equipment as newer models tend to be more efficient. Also upgrading your light bulbs to LED not only saves up to 90% on energy consumption but also saves you money! And everyone could do with saving money right now.

“Adopting these small changes will not only help the environment but give you an edge against your competitor. Being consciously sustainable is something you can shout about on your social media, helping others to see that you are committed to helping the planet.”

Thinking about what is going into the products you use also makes an impact on who you are including or excluding in your barbershop. For example, a lot of clients out there have made the lifestyle choice to go vegan or to stop using products that are tested on animals. By not offering a vegan and cruelty-free option in your shop, you could be alienating a huge percentage of these people. John said: “As a vegan myself, I

use products that don't harm or exploit animals. It’s something I'm very passionate about and it was a conscious decision of mine to only stock vegan-friendly products. Remember that vegan is inclusive, not exclusive!"

He continued: "My favourite brand is Insight Professional. They're a carbon-neutral company that has vegan-certified products. They're 96% natural and use formulations that are kind to the client and the planet. Whichever brand you pick, make sure you ask as many questions as you can so that you fully understand the brand and can educate your clients.” To sum up, John said: “We all need to make an effort to be more environmentally aware. It's easy to be sustainabile when you make a little more effort!”

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MR JOHN IS FOUNDER OF MRMR. SALON SUPPLIES AND HEAD OF COMMERCIAL EDUCATION FOR INSIGHT PROFESSIONAL UK HE’S DEDICATED TO ENSURING BARBERSHOP OWNERS GET THE BEST PRODUCTS AND TOOLS FOR THEIR BUSINESS AND THE PLANET. THIS IS HOW BECOMING MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY SUSTAINABLE MAKES YOU ECONOMICALLY SUSTAINABLE TOO.
“MY FAVOURITE BRAND IS INSIGHT PROFESSIONAL! THEY ARE A CARBON NEUTRAL COMPANY THAT HAS VEGAN CERTIFIED PRODUCTS. THEY ARE ALSO 96% NATURAL AND USE FORMULATIONS THAT ARE AS KIND TO THE CLIENT AS THEY ARE TO THE PLANET.”

ECO -IFY WAYS TO YOUR BARBERSHOP

JOE STEVEN IS CO-FOUNDER OF OS LIFESTYLE, THE UK’S FIRST CARBON NEGATIVE BARBERSHOP,

AND SELF-DESCRIBED SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPION. HE SHARED HIS ADVICE FOR HOW TO ECO-IFY YOUR BARBERSHOP.

Co-Founders, Joe and George started their careers as hairdressers, swiftly moving into barbering after discovering a love for short hair and men’s grooming. During covid lockdowns, the pair developed a passion for eco-friendliness and pledged to open the UK’s first carbon neutral barbershops – firstly in Fulham, then Brighton and now in London too.

Before we launch into Joe’s five ways to eco-ify your barbershop, we wanted to know: what does ‘carbon negative’ mean for barbers? Joe explained: “It starts with a mindset in yourselves and your staff. Simple considerations like being aware of the size of every location and how much energy each uses.

Also how many members of staff you have on each premises and how they commute –the barbers that associate with our business have to look at the way they live themselves and make sure they apply sustainability to other aspects of their lives... It builds integrity beyond the shop.” This is how to kick-start your sustainable journey…

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1 SHIFT YOUR MINDSET

“Once you engage with sustainability as a concept and a lifestyle, it becomes easy to transform your shop in both small and major ways.” Joe told us: “Our OS Lifestyle locations are social spaces too, giving local people a space to be creative, because being sustainable is about investing in people as much as products. Longterm positive impact on the planet comes from encouraging the communities around you.”

2 RECYCLE HAIR & REDUCE WASTE

“Small actions mean a lot,” Joe said. “Install energy-saving lightbulbs, use biodegradable paper and reusable towels – opt for phosphatefree, cruelty-free wash powders in biodegradable bottles. Brushes with ceramic bodies and all-natural bristles are a good one. Essentially, just identify the actions you make every day and brainstorm ways to transform how your teams work.”

As part of the Green Salon Collective, OS Lifestyle recycle hair after every cut. Joe gave us insight: “We don’t bin hair, we recycle it. To help us utilise hair for good, Matter of Trust have supplied us with a felting machine that turns hair into matts and hair booms. Hair is a great absorbent of oil – it absorbs nine times its weight and governments are looking into using hair-based mats for oil spills on beaches and in factories. So, the bonuses go long past the barbershop!”

3 SWITCH TO A RENEWABLE ENERGY PROVIDER

"Powering your barbershop with clean energy is a way to reduce carbon footprint. It’s often more value for money as well – great if you’re powering multiple locations. Make sure you explore the energy providers; look around and research the brand to ensure they work true to their claims.”

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CAREFUL BRAND SELECTION

In March 2021, Joe and George released the OS Lifestyle Shampoo Bar, a vegan and plastic-free hair wash that is as kind to the planet as it is to the hair and scalp. The 100% natural bar boosts, stimulates, and texturises the hair with Sea Salt and Pine. How can barbers know if a product is actually sustainable? Joe said: “It can be difficult to know! Research who you’re buying from and give the brands a call to chat through partnerships –it’s a good way to gauge the truth.”

We wanted to know what professional products and brands OS Lifestyle teams use for everyday client work. They have partnerships with EVO and the eco-friendly skincare brand MALIN+GOETZ, who offer everything from shampoos and conditioners to moisturisers and face wash. They champion humanity and empathy as a means of driving positive, long-term sustainable impact within local communities – just as OS Lifestyle do. Joe gave us the lowdown on his most-loved products:

• E VO Haze Styling Powder – “We aligned with EVO because they’re sustainably-minded. We love the styling powder and use it on wet and dry hair to add volume.”

• E VO Box O’ Bollox Texture Paste – “This medium-hold paste works for all hair types to create touchable texture and body.”

• MALIN+GOETZ Sage Styling Cream – “This versatile product has weightless, absorbent fatty acids to smooth and nourish hair while adding definition shine.”

• MALIN+GOETZ Cannabis Hand + Body Wash –

“We use this for hygiene in the shop – it has a warm, spicy cannabis fragrance, which smells amazing and really cleanses.”

• MALIN+GOETZ Hair Pomade – “This firmholding styling aid is formulated with bees wax to add definition while hydrating the scalp.”

5 SET SUSTAINABLE GOALS

OS Lifestyle hopes to reach net-zero carbon neutrality by 2025, which means continually assessing every aspect of the business now, from in-shop cuts and brand selection to the manufacturing and distribution of their shampoo bars. Joe said: “This is one of many changes we’ve made as we look to complete our goal of becoming the first fully sustainable barbershops in the UK. There are a lot of challenges ahead and we’re grateful for support as we try to tackle all the issues our industry poses!”

Start engaging with the sustainable evolution and keep up with the OS Lifestyle team at @oslifestyle_ on Instagram. You can shop OS products at oslifestyle.co.uk/shop/

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“OUR OS LIFESTYLE LOCATIONS ARE SOCIAL SPACES TOO, GIVING LOCAL PEOPLE A SPACE TO BE CREATIVE, BECAUSE BEING SUSTAINABLE IS ABOUT INVESTING IN PEOPLE AS MUCH AS PRODUCTS. LONG-TERM POSITIVE IMPACT ON THE PLANET COMES FROM ENCOURAGING THE COMMUNITIES AROUND YOU.”

Eco-friendly barber shop starts with a few small changes

AIMING FOR A MORE SUSTAINABLE, ECO-FRIENDLY BARBER SHOP STARTS WITH A FEW SMALL CHANGES. WHETHER IT’S THE HAIR PRODUCTS YOU STOCK, THE CHOICE OF CLIPPERS YOU USE OR RESEARCHING THE ECOLOGICAL CREDENTIALS OF YOUR SUPPLY CHAIN, THE CHANGE HAS TO START WITH YOU.

Rum were early adopters of disposable, compostable towels when we started using Scrummi towels back in 2016. Since then, Scrummi has become B Corp Certified, which means it has passed rigorous ethical standards for sustainability. That covers everything from the products they produce, to their supply chain, the shipping and packaging.

Using compostable towels means we can throw them out after use and know that within 100 days they will have biodegraded.

But speaking of making small eco changes, we recently started to use a cleaning product we source through Chris and Sons, called Disicide, which is a range of concentrated products that disinfect, are fungicides and virucides, made in Sweden. We started using them because they are water-based and solvent-free and gentle on our surfaces, chairs, tools etc.

The brand is environmentally friendly as well as health conscious with hospital grade disinfection standards, and as people become more concerned about the products and the chemicals they contain, these attributes become more important.

The tool companies are also taking action in the environmentally friendly arena. As an example, Wahl are looking at reducing the plastic in all their packaging. Since 2017, in the UK alone, Wahl has reduced its plastic packaging by 37%. That’s not just the packaging that goes into the boxes, it is the packaging used in shipping as well. They are also trying to reduce the energy used and materials consumed throughout the whole supply process. Wahl is also trying to promote the recycling of batteries and electronic hardware rather than disposing of them.

Changing the mindset of the throwaway society that we are is not easy, but if you buy a new BaByliss PRO product in the UK, the company will recycle your old products rather than see them go to landfill. That system will only work if there is a change in attitude from consumers.

We are all good at understanding the need for a sustainable food chain and sustainable clothing and companies are investing a lot of money in this kind of research, but companies can, and only will, do so much. It will take effort on our part to put an old product in a box and post it back to the company to be recycled rather than just throwing it out.

When we visited the Gama Professional factory in Italy last year, we were impressed by a section of their factory that was dedicated solely to repairs. In Italy, if any of your Gama Professional products break down for whatever reason, they will repair it for you. I think they have a similar set-up in other countries too. I feel that some of the EU countries have a better attitude towards fixing and recycling things. They don’t crave the new, new, new all the time. Repairing isn’t as popular a concept in the UK or the US and so it would be very expensive for other brands to set this up if nobody is willing to use it.

The repair service impressed us greatly and it’s something that the other clipper and trimmer companies should be looking at if they can engage the consumer in the process.

Back in the day, barbers didn’t have as much choice or availability for clippers and trimmers, and barbers were readily able to fix certain issues with their tools. If you go on the Gama Professional UK website, they may not have a place to send your machines for repair, but they do offer replacement parts for all their tools. They try to make it as easy as possible for things to last, and I don’t think all clipper companies can boast that. Repairing is certainly more cost effective than buying a new set of clippers every year.

Getting everyone involved and changing the mindset across the industry is the beginning of solving the problem. The whole supply chain needs to be more sustainable and environmentally friendly but it won’t happen overnight and it won’t happen unless everyone gets onboard.

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“GETTING EVERYONE INVOLVED AND CHANGING MINDSET ACROSS THE INDUSTRY IS WHERE SOLVING THE PROBLEM BEGINS.”

recycling hair

There are some companies now that are recycling hair. Sometimes hair can get attached to hair within recycling and it can slow down the degradation process. Employing a service like that will be more costly, but it’s a fairly new service and like everything else, as it becomes more commonplace the cost will come down and it will be accessible for more people to sign up.

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JAMES FISHER IS COMPANY DIRECTOR AT LONDONBASED ECO-FRIENDLY BARBERSHOP AND SOCIAL SPACE, WhiP. CO-FOUNDER AND BRAND DIRECTOR LOU BIRKET TOLD US WHAT IT TAKES TO RUN A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS AND HOW EASY IT IS FOR PROFESSIONALS TO TRANSFORM THE WAY THEY WORK.

James has always been obsessed with his own hair. He officially began his hairdressing journey in 2011, armed with a Vidal Sassoon DVD, a pair of scissors from the chemist, and some old clippers. He told us: “Turning 30 was the main inspiration behind carving a career, and TONI&GUY answered the call with some necessary training for the job.” Lou was keen to get a new multi-faceted business off the ground, with ideas of events and music now being a key part of WhiP’s identity. She told us: “WhiP opened in 2016 as a pop-up and we opened the

Hackney shop in 2017. We wanted to create our idea of a space for creative hair in a laid back and attractive environment, soundtracked with interesting disco/jazz/electronica, local beers, and art on the walls. We now have five chairs in Hackney, and in our new WhiP Brighton, there are six stylist sections and a nail bar!" The WhiP team have a strong ethos and mission, setting out to create an experience-led eco-centric destination shop. Lou said: “Hair meets art, music, and fashion in our hive of creativity. An open and relaxed space, we want to do hair

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INTO SHAPE

for everyone in our community.” Prior to hairdressing, James was a member of the founding team behind Meadows in the Mountains Festival, a pioneering music and arts festival with huge “eco-ambition” in the mountains of Bulgaria. Both Lou and James are passionate about the natural world and have huge appreciation for Mother Nature. James said: “After deciding to open a shop, there was a bewilderment when researching common salon practices and supplier options. At the time, it was niche to be 100% vegan and eco-friendly.”

We asked the pair to tell us three simple things that hairdressers and barbers can do on a daily basis to reduce waste, whether that’s through recycling product packaging/ foils, or using reusable towels, or stocking eco-friendly retail. Here’s more: “Don’t over mix and waste products," James said. "Whether using washable or biodegradable towels, the less you use the better. Find suitable products to make yourself part of the solution not the problem.”

When it came to choosing their go-to professional products, what was WhiP's criteria? “In terms of performance/ formulations/brand ethos etc, we

are aware that the hair and beauty industry can contribute negatively to our environment – and the animals – and we wanted to make sure we did the most we could to select professional quality products that perform and impact positively in a barber and hairdressing environment. And of course, we needed products that matched the shop aesthetic and look good too!” The shop’s go-to eco-friendly brand is Oway. Why? James said: “We use Oway because they’re plastic-free, biodynamic, and the brand really lives their sustainability best life!”

The WhiP team champion biodynamic products and aim to bring as many good habits into the shop as possible. ‘Biodynamic’ has become a bit of a buzz phrase, so we asked James what it actually means to use and retail products that are biodynamic. He said: “It’s the most natural production method on the professional market, so for clients who are now more than ever aware of what they are putting into and onto their bodies, it feels like the best choice – both for the planet and the client.”

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DON’T OVER MIX AND WASTE PRODUCTS. WHETHER USING WASHABLE OR BIODEGRADABLE TOWELS, THE LESS YOU USE THE BETTER. FIND SUITABLE PRODUCTS TO MAKE YOURSELF PART OF THE SOLUTION AND NOT THE PROBLEM.”
“WE USE OWAY BECAUSE THEY’RE PLASTIC-FREE, BIODYNAMIC, AND THE BRAND REALLY LIVES THEIR SUSTAINABILITY BEST LIFE!”

“I BELIEVE IN SUSTAINABILITY AS IT WILL IMPROVE OUR QUALITY OF LIFE NOW AND MORE IMPORTANTLY FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS. I LOVE USING OWAY BECAUSE THE COMPANY SUPPORTS A WIDER ISSUE AND REPRESENTS OUR ETHOS AT WHIP.”

How can professionals identify biodynamic products? “If the brand is biodynamic, they would probably make a point of marketing that, because it takes a lot to be able to use that label and I’m sure they’d be proud of what they are doing!”

James told us more about Oway: “Oway have the perfect combination of sustainability focus and performance. We love their emphasis on raw, natural ingredients, and their production methods. My current favourite is the Supreme Matt Paste for styling and finish. It’s hands down the best vegan wax/paste product I’ve used. I think it outperforms all other matt pastes on the market!”

Self-titled as East London and Brighton’s biggest eco-enthusiasts, WhiP are always investigating ways to improve their impact on the environment. James and the team focus on five key areas for continuous improvement. James gave us the lowdown:

Supplier brands – “We carefully cherry pick brands in line with our ethos and innovative industry leaders. We focus on Oway as our chosen professional brand. It’s also the only one that is actually biodynamic, which means they use active ingredients, naturally derived extracts, and ethical trading. We use Olaplex when people request it, and Evo organic bleach, but all our haircare, styling and colours are Oway.

THE PROS TRUST

Some of WhiP’s best and brightest tell us why sustainability is important in a shop – and why Oway makes them feel like they’re doing good for the planet every day.

“SUSTAINABILITY REPRESENTS A MORE MEANINGFUL EXISTENCE; TO CONSIDER OUR COMMUNITY AND HOW WE CAN BETTER OURSELVES AND OTHERS. I LOVE USING OWAY AS EVERYTHING IS BIODYNAMIC. I BELIEVE COMBINING SCIENCE WITH THE SPIRIT OF NATURE IS THE WAY FORWARD!”

"Everything has to be vegan, organic, and cruelty-free for all hair types.”

Recycling – “All packaging, hair waste and anything in between is 100% recycled.”

Service – “WhiP uses an eco water system with waste-less-water shower heads and paper 'foils' for colour services. We also use booking platform Booksy to stay on top of appointments and business aspects without paper waste. We love that it allows clients to alter their appointments and is as a constant line of communication."

Training – “All staff go through training programmes with sustainable brands as well as adopt consciousness, care, and consideration for Mother Earth.”

Interior – “We believe in sustainability throughout our business – things get broken and need replacing, and what better option than an item that needs a new home anyway? We love the craftsmanship and individuality that comes with a cool vintage piece, but we do love our Takara Belmont Dainty Chairs too. Known for their incredible quality, Takara Belmont chairs are the only items we bought new, and are a long term investment. Would highly recommend!"•

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“WITHOUT SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING SUSTAINABILITY, LIFE ON THIS PLANET WILL GET A LOT HARDER. I LOVE USING OWAY AS IT COMBINES STYLING WITH TRUE HAIR CARE – EVERY PRODUCT HAS A BENEFICIAL ELEMENT. MY FAVOURITE OWAY PRODUCT HAS TO BE THE CURL PRIMING CREAM MIXED WITH A CHEEKY BIT OF FROZEN GLAZE FOR HOLD, TO CREATE THE PERFECT SHAG LOOK.”
Ely @50shadesofely

OSMO X.POSED DAILY SHAMPOO

A gentle yet effective daily cleanser with a refreshing citrus fragrance. Infused with extracts of Basil, Thyme and Mandarin designed to help stimulate and refresh the scalp whilst promoting shine and vitality. Hair is left feeling energised day after day. Formulated with 91% naturally derived ingredients.

400ml. £5.15 // osmo.uk.com

The Natural Barber Co.

STUDIES SHOW THAT MEN NOW CARE MORE ABOUT THEIR HAIR THAN WOMEN. THEY TRUST IN NATURAL INGREDIENTS OVER SYNTHETIC ONES AND ARE MORE LIKELY TO PICK UP A NEW PRODUCT IF IT’S SUSTAINABLE. JOE SKINNER, FOUNDER AND CEO OF NATURAL BARBER CO., TOLD US MORE.

SCRUMMI WAFFLE BLACK HAIR TOWELS

Thick, soft and ultra absorbent towels, 100% biodegradable and compostable. Comes in boxes of 50 or 500.

£14.75 (for 50) // scrummi.com

INSIGHT ENERGIZING SHAMPOO

For frequent use thanks to its delicate formula. Restores vitality leaving it soft and shiny. With natural extracts to naturally moisture balance the hair.

£6.50 // insightprofessional.co.uk

EVO HAPPY CAMPERS

A lightweight, daily styling treatment that moisturises, strengthens and protects while adding style support. Dual delivery as a spray or a cream for more concentrated effect.

£21.00 // evohair.co.uk

There are stats to prove it! Natural Barber Co. research revealed that, accumulatively, the men’s grooming, UK ethical cosmetics, global clean beauty, and UK subscription markets have a 52-billion-pound market space for breakthrough all-natural products that put the customer and the planet at the forefront. In fact, 6% of male hair/skincare users stick to the same brands once that loyalty is built, so it's a no-brainer to create subscription products that honour that loyalty month by month.

Founder of Natural Barber Co. and CEO Joe Mallory-Skinner said: “Although the beauty sector is notorious for customer disloyalty, we’re seeing trends being bucked by men, through our own high annual subscriber retention rate (67% compared to Beauty Industry Avg of 21%23).” However, the mass-market haircare industry is falling flat on many levels, from not catering to different hair textures to failing to achieve long-lasting hold. Here’s where the gaps lie:

• Harsh, toxic, synthetic formulas that can cause scalp and eye irritation.

• Failing diverse hair types and different ages.

• Planet polluting petrochemicals, water-based formulas, and single use plastics.

The Natural Barber Co. was born from Joe’s personal experience. As an ex-touring rock musician, Joe was using normal hair wax whilst playing onstage to hundreds of people. Naturally, he sweated, and his styling products melted into his eyes – not ideal. Joe said:

“Our brand is forged from a real-life problem. As a touring musician in my 20s, my hair wax was getting in the way of my performance – melting midshow and stinging my eyes with toxic chemicals. I couldn’t find a hair wax that worked… Let alone one that wasn’t terrible for the environment.”

As a result, he started making his own all-natural hair wax. Now, every product he makes for Natural Barber Co. is:

• Made of nourishingly natural ingredients.

• Part of a convenient subscription service.

• Vegan-friendly and cruelty-free.

• Sent using plastic-free packaging and shipping, with wholesale opportunities for barbers.

Joe said: “We’re shaking up the men’s mass-market haircare industry with our subscriptionbased natural haircare range for men.” Natural Barber Co. are on Instagram as @naturalbarberco and their website is naturalbarber.co

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Furniture

GREAT BARBERSHOPS BALANCE FASHION AND FUNCTION. HOW DO YOU CREATE A SPACE THAT’S RELAXING, COMFORTABLE, AND FASHIONABLE, WHILE BEING FUNCTIONAL AND PRACTICAL? EXPERTS SHARE ADVICE ON CREATING A STYLISH SPACE FOR YOUR CLIENTS.

in the

Sanctuary City

SHEPHERDS IS A BARBERSHOP BASED IN BIRMINGHAM CITY CENTRE, CREATED TO SERVE STYLE-CONSCIOUS MEN. NOT ONLY ARE THE MEN WHO WALK OUT OF SHEPHERDS STYLISH, BUT THE SPACE ITSELF IS PRETTY SLICK TOO. WE TALKED TO SHEPHERDS GROOMING DIRECTOR, DAVID STURGEON ALL ABOUT STYLE.

David said: “These days, men are increasingly taking pride in their appearance, evidenced by the exponential rise of the male grooming market. Shepherds was born to serve these men." So, who are these men?

"We created Shepherds for men who truly

understand the transformative quality of a great haircut and the confidence it gives them across their daily lives; men are selective about the brands and the products they associate themselves with; men who are well-connected and responsible; men who are well informed and

who positively contribute to both society and community.

“Since we opened in 2017, Shepherds has built an unrivalled reputation based on an authentic, honest and knowledgeable approach that’s unparalleled in the city.” 

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FURNITURE//

Takara Belmont HAIRCARE BRANDS//

Sacha Juan, Shepherd’s Grooming Products RETAIL BRANDS//

Thomas Clipper, DR Harris, Marvis, Hierbas de Mallorca, Escuyer, Monocle, Penguin Books, Kent, Taschen, Edwin Jagger. BOOKING SYSTEM// Squire

With four years of successful trading under their belts and a bursting appointment book, they were then ready to expand their business. David said: “In September 2021 we opened the doors to our second shop. The second shop is located in a prime city centre location at Piccadilly Arcade, one of Birmingham's listed buildings and famous for its boutique independent scene.”

Being so mindful of style and aesthetics, I asked David how they approached designing and laying out their second location. He said: “The second shop is a true expansion and progression from our previous shop. We have added an extra barber section to increase our availability and meet demand, the addition of a retail and lifestyle area dedicated to supporting the client’s journey from service to product and attracting shoppers looking for the perfect gift for the man in their life. We took the strategy of not having a reception but instead an island where clients can wait, sample our products and enjoy a drink.

“The feel of the shop is elegant, Scandi, and open space. The aim was to create an environment where our clients look forward to sitting and spending time in the shop while getting a haircut. The addition of a slated wall was to give the illusion of light with the feel of sanctuary from the busy high street. Within the barbering area, we have also tinted the windows to give the shop a sense of privacy.”

David continued: “The space makes a bold statement, and we truly believe that there is nowhere like this in Birmingham. Our clients feel that we have given back to them and the city. A place that the people of Birmingham have been looking for.”

Where they could, they always opted for local artisans to bring their concept to life. He explained: “All our salon furniture is bespoke and handmade in Digbeth. The counter to our island

is a one-by-two metre sheet of brass from one of Birmingham's famous metalwork factories.

“This mixed with handmade designer Swedish lights (Nuura) and Takara Belmont Apollo 2 chairs, creates an elegance unrivalled in the city.

“The shop itself is a piece of art, that sits at the entrance of the famous Piccadilly Arcade, boasting high ceilings and big curved windows.”

Why was Takara Belmont the brand of choice for Shepherds? David explained: “We wanted the best for our clients and in terms of comfort, quality and versatility, Takara Belmont is the leader in the industry. Their slick design and attention to detail make the client and barber experience seamless.

“We ordered the chairs through Salon Services; we waited six months for them to be made in Japan. The wait was worth it as they complete the luxury concept that we were going for.”

The team at Shepherds thought about every single detail when designing the space. David explained: “For lighting, we used Nuura designer lamps and LED tracks across the salon. I chose LED Studio Lighting. I wanted the efficiency of modern lights, but I also wanted to recreate the feel of a 90’s track lighting in hairdressers and barbershops that I spent time in when I was training. I wanted to achieve a gallery feel where I could expose art.

“For backwashes, the barbers spin the clients around and relax them back into the basins without having to ask them to stand up or move to a different area.

“And for mirrors, we have big, long mirrors that give the client and barber full visibility of the service process. It also helps to give the space an openness feeling that is key to achieving a calm and relaxed environment in the city centre.” •

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“THE AIM WAS TO CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT WHERE OUR CLIENTS LOOK FORWARD TO SITTING AND SPENDING TIME IN THE SHOP WHILE GETTING A HAIRCUT.”
“THE SPACE MAKES A BOLD STATEMENT, AND WE TRULY BELIEVE THAT THERE IS NOWHERE LIKE THIS IN BIRMINGHAM. OUR CLIENTS FEEL THAT WE HAVE GIVEN BACK TO THEM AND THE CITY. A PLACE THAT THE PEOPLE OF BIRMINGHAM HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR.”
www.takarahairdressing.co.uk Dougie Johns Hairdressing Setting standards of classic design, pure luxury and superior functionality since 1921 Love it. Lease it. Own it. Contact your local distributor now DAINTY Enquire about our 0%, zero deposit finance

The Future of

Mirror Tech

THE SNIPPIT MIRROR WAS CREATED IN JUNE 2020. CO-FOUNDERS SAM AND HARRY MARSHALL USED LOCKDOWN TO CONCEPTUALISE THE FIRST PROTOTYPE – AND THEIR SUCCESS HAS GROWN SINCE. WE LEARNED ABOUT THE INNOVATION, WHICH SEEMLESSLY MERGES BARBERING AND ENTERTAINMENT TO CREATE BESPOKE EXPERIENCES THAT ADD VALUE TO EVERY CLIENT VISIT.

Snippit Mirrors Co-founder, Harry Marshall, told us that the product started as a basic run-ofthe-mill smart mirror with a rustic wooden frame and TV screen shining through the glass from the back. The initial prototype was built on their dining room table! They decided to test it in a two-week initial trial in Payton’s Barbers, which was a success but also exposed flaws that lead them to innovations that make the Snippit Mirror what it is today. Sam told us: "Think Global, Shop Local is our ethos and we won't lose sight of this.” Snippit plan to deliver by handing over full veto-control over ad partners to the barbers, lucrative revenue share models with their barber partners, and an anti-monopoly policy that guarantees accessibility for small local business owners, differentiating them from every other billboard company on the planet!"

Harry continued: “We're innovating underutilised assets in the barber’s inventory: their station mirrors and their community influence. More specifically, we want to deliver a new and exciting barbershop experience, from customer entertainment to barber utility features that compliment barber workflows and help them reinforce their own brand/culture.” When asked whether they believed it was important to invest in quality furniture/equipment, Harry said: “We’re not from the industry ourselves, but it’s clear to even a passive observer that barbers care about quality craftsmanship. We want to

deliver the next generation of barber stations with as much attention to detail as humanely possible!” Sam continued: “Ultimately, we want the Snippit Mirror to become an integral part of the barbershop experience.”

What about the buying process? Can barbers trust that their investment will include optimum customer service and support moving forward?

Sam told us: “We begin the process with a consultation to get a feel for what the client’s dream mirror looks like, and then we set out to go and build it how they imagine it!” The industry is always changing and innovations in barber tech are constant. What key elements of the smart designs make Snippit Mirrors perfect for barbers? “Firstly, our mirrors are entirely bespoke. Very early in our pursuit of this idea, we realised every barbershop is different, therefore every Snippit Mirror must be unique to suit!

“Our mirrors come in any height and width; any shape or size. We are also always looking to work with our barber partners to facilitate special requests, this includes things like powder coated frame colours, technical installs, and custom mirror backlighting.”

Why choose a Snippit Mirror? Our mirrors are tailored to suit your barbershop environment. To distinguish itself further from any other smart mirror in the world today, the Snippit Mirror also comes with patent pending ClearScreen technology providing crystal clear image quality

even in high ambient light environments. This means your clients won’t be squinting to enjoy the entertainment! Sam also said: “Custom screen placement is key for making our mirrors practical for the industry. For this, we measure average customer head position in your current mirrors. Once we understand your average customer head position, we adjust our screen placement accordingly to optimise the top screen to sit around chest height, with enough clearance for the customers to see their head in the mirror above.” Harry finished by saying: “This is our year for cutting learning curves and educating as many barbers as possible about our mirrors. However exciting our future vision may look, the reality is baby steps towards the inevitable evolution of the brand and the technology.”

Learn more about Snippit Mirrors on Instagram @snippitmirrors or via snippitmirrors.co.uk

AN INDUSTRY STANDOUT

What makes Snippit Mirrors different?

1. Entirely bespoke design.

2. ClearScreen technology providing crystal clear image even in high-ambient lighting.

3. Two-screen design generating passive revenue through community and brand endorsements.

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CHOOSE A DESIGN Our mirrors are entirely bespoke, tailor-made to suit your ideal shape and incorporate your brand colours via a powder coated frame. CHOOSE A SIZE We can match the size and shape of your current station or facilitate a new size/ design if you wish. DELIVERY & INSTALLATION Once your mirror is ready, we ship it to you ready to be installed by a qualified commercial electrician. GENERATE INCOME Receive a lucrative share of the advertising revenue generated, plus a significantly increased percentage split for referring business owners yourself!  Grow your business with a Snippit Mirror in 4 easy steps. The UK's First Bespoke Smart Mirrors for Barbershops www.snippitmirrors.co.uk info@snippitmirrors.co.uk 07889567830 @snippitadvertising snippitmirrors Snippit Mirrors

THE GUYS FROM BETTER SALON SUPPLIES GAVE US THE BARBERSHOP DO’S AND DON’TS THAT THEY HAD LEARNED OVER THE MANY YEARS SPENT IN THE BARBERING INDUSTRY. THEY HELPED US A LOT WHEN IT CAME TO FINANCING, DESIGN, LAYOUT, AND SELECTING THE RIGHT PIECES FOR US.”

Community Space

WHAT IS THE RECIPE FOR A BARBERSHOP’S SUCCESS?

WELL, IF WE KNEW IT, WE WOULD TELL YOU! BUT ONE THING WE DO KNOW IS IT HELPS TO HAVE A BALANCE BETWEEN PRACTICALITY AND PASSION, EXPERIENCE AND ENTHUSIASM, AND BUSINESS PROWESS AND BARBERING SKILLS. BETWEEN MARK POWELL, MATT STRINGER, AND BETTER SALON SUPPLIES, GENTS @ 27 HAD IT ALL – AND SUCCESS FOLLOWED.

There are some times in life when the stars align, and everything just comes together perfectly. When Matt was first doing his barbering apprenticeship, he would pass a café while sitting in traffic and would dream about turning the full-of-character repurposed stable building into a community barbershop.

About seven years later, Mark Powell, a local entrepreneur and business owner would also stumble upon the building and see great potential. Mark explained: “I was just getting into property development, and I came across this building, which had been acting at the time as

a café. The space had a lot of local interest, so I decided to take it to the community to see what they would like to see in the space. From there, local press and even the One Show got involved. Suddenly I had 50-60 applications of proposals for local businesses in the space.

“The whole thing turned into like a mini Dragon’s Den! I narrowed the applications down to about 10 to 12 people and invited them to a local hotel to have an in-person meeting to pitch their ideas. Matt was the last meeting I had that day, and it so quickly became clear we were on the same page with just about everything.”

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Matt explained to me: “I was about seven years into my barbering career, and I was feeling like I had reached a ceiling and was looking for my next challenges. Mark and I shared a PT, so when my PT told me about Mark’s mission to fill this space, and then I found out that it was THE space, I felt like all the stars had aligned.

“At the meeting, we began speaking about how we envisioned the space, and our ideas and visions fell parallel to each other, so we knew it would be a good fit all around.”

I asked Matt why he thought his pitch stood out to Mark so much. He said: “I knew that Mark wanted to fill the space that would give back to the community, and also keep in touch with the building itself. The building is an old stable house which we guess was connected to the manor, in which our town was built around. We wanted to stay true to the heritage of the building and the community and create a space that brought community members together. And in my mind, what place is more the heart of a community than a barbershop?”

From there, Matt and Mark had a blank slate to start working with. Mark’s wife had an eye for design, Matt had the knowledge and experience of the necessary functions and practicalities of a barbershop, and Mark, who owned a cleaning equipment company, was all about the practicalities and functionalities of running a business.

Mark said: “Matt was able to give important insight about things like the importance of lighting, the number and placement of power points, storage and counter space, and so on. Things that someone who wasn’t a barber, wouldn’t always think about.

“Design-wise, we knew we wanted to stay true to the space, and not make it overly modern. So, we envisioned the wood beams and exposed brick. We wanted to create a space that was comfortable, not just for the clients, but for the barbers too.”

Matt said: “From the beginning, the one thing that Mark was certain about, was ‘if you’re going to do it, do it properly’. So, we did as much research as we could to find the best pieces for the space, to ensure that we could invest in the right things, the first time.”

The only area that neither Mark nor Matt had experienced before, was actually opening and designing a barbershop. So, Matt took Mark to Salon International, where they could see some of the products they were about to invest in, first-hand.

Mark said: “That is when we met Adrian and the team from Better Salon Supplies. And I first got to try out the Takara Belmont Apollo 2 chairs, which we both instantly fell in love with. The guys from Better Salon Supplies gave us the barbershop do’s and dont’s that they had learned over the many years spent in the barbering industry. They helped us a lot when it came to financing, design, layout, and selecting the right pieces for us.

“As Matt mentioned before, I do not believe in skimping or cutting corners when it came to creating the space. Whether that was investing in the best flooring, matching countertops, and bespoke pieces to fit the space.

“One of the main things we knew we wanted to invest in was the right Takara Belmont chairs. I wanted to have them customised so that the piping matched. However, this kind of customisation takes time. But luckily, Adrian and the team at Better Salon Supplies had Takara Belmont Chairs that we could

rent while we were waiting for our bespoke chairs.” For Matt and Mark, this kind of customer service from Better Salon Supplies was priceless, as it allowed us to get open and running as soon as we were ready.

All the careful thought and consideration into the interior, design and furniture definitely paid off, as within just a few weeks, Gents @27 was fully booked, and Matt and Mark even had to call up Better Salon Supplies and rent a few more chairs so they accommodate the demand.

So, what was the secret to success? Mark said: “My goal was really to make the place somewhere barbers wanted to be. Because happy barbers, mean happy clients. I believe the standards you set and the standards you get, and that’s why the attention to detail was essential to have such a successful business.”

Mark and Matt now have their eyes on opening their next barbershop. Would they do anything differently? Matt said: “I think the magic of this shop is that we stayed true to the building character through décor and design. So, if we were to open our next shop, it would look different because it is a different space and a different building. However, we definitely would still invest in the same important things, like Takara Belmont Chairs and work with Better Salon Supplies.” Find Gents @ 27 on Instagram as @gents_at27 and their website is gentsat27.com

01778 346 585

sales@bettersalonsupplies.co.uk

Services we offer: Showroom, Shop Design, Installation, Servicing

www.bettersalonsupplies.co.uk

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“MY GOAL WAS REALLY TO MAKE THE PLACE SOMEWHERE BARBERS WANTED TO BE. BECAUSE HAPPY BARBERS MEANS HAPPY CLIENTS.”
Better Salon Supplies has a Takara Belmont Showroom covering the Midlands. Open by appointment 7 days a week.

A look inside the new Ruger Co-Work & Coffee

TWO YEARS IN THE MAKING, ALAN AND REECE BEAK OF RUGER. ARE JUST PUTTING THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON THEIR NEWEST LOCATION, A THREE-STOREY SPACE WITH A FLAT ROOM TERRACE, WHICH INCLUDES SPACE FOR THE BARBERSHOP, A COWORKING SPACE, A COFFEE SHOP, AND A WAREHOUSE FOR THE RUGER. PRODUCTS.

Design Inspiration

Alan Beak said: “The design is minimalist, we have used a Scandinavian design using a specific design team called Youth Studios, with a designer called Liam McGroarty

“We wanted all of the work equipment to be behind the unit. There’s a chair, there’s a mirror, but what you don’t see is that the units are projected off the walls with an LED strip around them to give this halo effect, which hides all the work equipment. The only thing in front of the client is a small shelf for their keys, coffee and phone.”

Multifunction

“We have always tried to be something more than one-dimensional. Yes, we are a barbershop, but we are also a brand, and that brand has now extended into a coffee shop. We don’t want to put a limit on what our brand can do. We wanted to explore new avenues, give ourselves a challenge and try something different. Coming to Ruger is not just about having a haircut, it’s about having an experience.”

NUMBER OF STATIONS// Eight FURNITURE// Cult Furniture, Takara Belmont, The Wood Veneer Hub INTERIOR DESIGN// Liam McGroarty @ Youth studios, Creative Architecture, Plasterace, Millrace Electrical  BESPOKE FURNITURE// Saddleworth Plan and Design Group, RND Building, TR Weld  BOOKING SERVICE// Booksy PRODUCT LINES// RUGER. Bespoke Style and Grooming Line  TOOLS// Wahl, Mizutani, Denman, Ruger.

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Liam continued: “We want our clients to come to an environment that is full of positivity and laughs and you can come sit down, have a coffee, feel relaxed and talk to your barber as you get your haircut. For us it is about how happy people are when they leave Ruger. And if they are happy, they will tell their friends and that’s how the brand expands and grows into an empire, but it’s not based on what money it makes, it is based on the difference it makes within a community.”

Furniture & Fittings

“We used a company called Cult Furniture for the bespoke elements, we stayed with Takara Belmont for our chairs, but everything else was bespoke made because nobody makes the kind of units we wanted.  “We wanted to collaborate the notion of what was functional and the aesthetic. We wanted to create a barbershop that didn’t look like a barbershop. It’s very clean cut, we have used a lot of stainless steel, the colourways are different all through it. And we used a very specific plaster which is like a marble plaster which is called Dolomite plaster. The marble comes from the Dolomites in Italy.”

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TO BECOME A STOCKIST OF RUGER. PRODUCTS EMAIL RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM WWW.RUGERBARBER.COM RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM TO BECOME A STOCKIST OF RUGER. PRODUCTS EMAIL RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM
BECOME A STOCKIST OF RUGER. PRODUCTS EMAIL RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM WWW.RUGERBARBER.COM
BECOME A STOCKIST OF RUGER. PRODUCTS EMAIL RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM WWW.RUGERBARBER.COM TO BECOME A STOCKIST OF RUGER. PRODUCTS EMAIL RUGERBARBER@HOTMAIL.COM WWW.RUGERBARBER.COM
TO
TO

Inside

Jazzman Grooves

NEON LIGHTS, GRAFFITIED WALLS, CINEMA SEATS, AND A COMMITMENT TO PROVIDING THE BEST SERVICE POSSIBLE IS WHAT SETS LANCASHIRE-BASED JAZZMAN GROOVES BARBERSHOP APART FROM THE REST. FOUNDER BARON LAIRD LEAD US THROUGH THE SHOP AND WHY HE’S A BIG FAN OF REM CHAIRS.

Established in 1989 in the heart of Burnley, Jazzman Grooves is no ordinary barbershop. Baron wanted to provide Burnley with its very first specialised contemporary barbershop, rather than old-fashioned hairdressers. Baron comes from a family of hairdressers and barbers so though he developed a love for the industry, he also knew the aspects that he would like to

improve. Baron quickly realised there was more to a barbershop than just a trim. When he qualified, Baron moved into a tiny space – room for just two chairs – and built a loyal clientele, many of whom still get their cut with him today. Any shop he opens, he envisages the aesthetic and does everything he can to create a Jazzman’s bespoke treatment

experience. He said: “Since moving into the bigger premises 34 years ago (it’s just across the road from my first spot!) we've been joined by more than 20 barber shops in the Burnley district, and while many have been and gone, good old Jazzman's has gone from strength to strength, growing in stature and meeting new standards.”

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STERILE-LIKE

BARBER SHOPS ARE

Walk through Jazzman's doors and you’re welcomed by a bouncing atmosphere and a freshly ground cappuccino with, as Baron told us, staff bickering over who’s phone is connected to the numerous speakers plastered around the multi-story shop! The interior is designed to make customers feel comfortable, with British-made REM chairs being fundamental in this. Baron said: “Sterile-like barber shops are a pet hate of ours! A haircut is not a medical procedure, so why should you be in a medical setting? We believe the features in our shop aid character and create conversation, with chesterfields, vintage arcade machines, neon signs, musical instruments, cinema seats, traffic lights, and more all crammed in!”

We asked Baron to sum up his shop in one word. He gave us two: “Quirky and individual!” He continued: “We have a huge fan on the roof with blue lights that make a statement –especially next to the huge, branded Jazzman Grooves LED sign, which is the biggest piece of branding we have in the shop.

“All our chairs are from REM Salon Furniture because they’re quite local to us and they have great quality. They have all sorts of washing basins and hairdressing equipment too. Our experience with them has always been great! Every piece you buy from REM is an investment and they understand that. So when damage happens, they come out quickly and fix any issues with the chairs. No hassle, no fuss – just good

customer service and a genuine commitment to clients and customers.”

Baron’s basins are also from REM. He said: “Upstairs, our aesthetic is more classic, so we have traditional sinks that aren’t flashy – just sleek and functional. Our backwashes from REM are luxurious as well. Great comfort for the client.”

Baron believes in a fleshed-out client experience and so has a coffee bar that all people have access to as well as a huge Instagram follower counting board on the wall that shows the number of followers @jazzmangrooves has in real-time. Every person that comes in is encouraged to follow and then see as the number increases on the wall. Baron said: “People get so excited! I think it’s the interactivity of it that they like. It’s an interesting piece of décor but also a subtle marketing tool.”

Baron enlisted the help of artist Darren Harrison to graffiti the bathrooms and some cabinets throughout the shop – adding even more character to Jazzman’s. He prides himself on individuality and supporting independent, local creatives to make a place feel like home. With regards to haircuts, their services range from buzz cuts to nose waxes and everything in between. He said: “Jazzman Grooves doesn't just provide a haircut; more a social activity that presents all walks of life and brings together a community within.”

Baron installed a 'Mental Health Shelf', which provides customers with books that have helped

other people in the shop overcome challenges in their lives, with books offered free of charge, and often returned once completed. He said: “Book swapping is a common activity in Jazzman’s and provides people with the opportunity to read books that have helped fellow readers in the past.”

Baron continued: “Every person has a different story to tell, with us stalwarts proud to see individuals grow on a personal level, with some customers having visited us for three decades. We've seen numerous generations visit us, with children growing up then bringing their children and grandchildren.”

Each staff member fit their customers to a T, with the young guns often booked in for non-stop fades throughout the week, whereas the experienced guys are usually met with the old-fashioned 'short back n' sides' request. Baron said: “We also, a somewhat rarity in the industry, strive to make kids' experiences at barbers the best it can be. We understand a parent's visit with their child is the last thing they want after a tough day at work... Well, with a Lamborghini seat available and a treat offered post-trim, we like to think kids overcome the barber shop fear here at Jazzman’s and consequently look forward to their next visit!”

A PET HATE OF OURS! A HAIRCUT IS NOT A MEDICAL PROCEDURE,SO WHY SHOULD YOU BE IN A MEDICAL SETTING?”
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Find Jazzman Grooves on Instagram @jazzmangrooves

TAKARA BELMONT APOLLO 2 ELITE

The first evolution of the Apollo 2 barber chair dynasty with refined matt or gloss black or white gloss iron works and contrasting piping. With a 360º (lockable) rotation, synchronised reclining backrest and raising footrest. Recline lever on both sides and a spring loaded seat cushion. The ultimate in client comfort.

£2,700.00-£3,080.00 // takarahairdressing.co.uk

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Furniture

MODA NELSON MOBILIER RECTANGULUM STYLING UNIT

A contemporary styling unit with powder painted matte black metal shelf and frame with brass or glossy black pvc finish.

£792.00 // modasaloninteriors.com

REM BRITANNIA BARBER CHAIR

Finished in classic diamond stitched upholsery with a reclining seat system, adjustable headrest and available in 24 colours. Fitted with a heavy duty hydraulic base guaranteeing years of trouble free use.

£1,099.00 // bettersalonsupplies.co.uk

MIRPLAY LINUS BARBER CHAIR

This high quality and cost-effective chair has a leatherette cover and is lowmaintenance. Customers can relax in this comfortable chair, which also has a lockable hydraulic pump.

£375.00 // chrisandsons.co.uk

BARBER CHAIR

Made in Britain for the traditional barber fraternity with reclining seat system, adjustable headrest and available in 24 fabric colours. As with all REM Barber Chairs, the REM Kingsman Classic Barber Chair is fitted with proven heavy duty hydraulic base system, which guarantees years of trouble-free use.

£1,194.00 // bettersalonsupplies.co.uk

TAKARA BELMONT HOT TOWEL CABINET

Designed to fit on or under a barber unit, it takes up to 28 towels and has a quiet motor. Removable basket for easy emptying.

£355.00 // chrisandsons.co.uk

SNIPPIT MIRRORS

This is impressive. A barbershop mirror with a large entertainment screen with a smaller screen for your local small business advertisments. Different shapes and designs available, 100s of colours and can be personalised. snippitmirrors.co.uk

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