BarberEVO UK & Ireland Issue 40 (September/October 2023)

NOVO

CRESSWELL

COLIN PETRIE

ROMEO THE BARBER

MARK MACIVER

Huge range of productsOver 2,000 products

GAMMA+ BOOSTED MODULAR CLIPPER

Gamma+ Boosted Modular Clipper certainly packs a punch with its 7200 RPM Super Torque Motor! It comes with 3 interchangeable custom body kits (Black, Gold & Red) and has an adjustable Zero Gap Blade from 4mm to Zero. The Lithium-Ion battery delivers an impressive run time of 120 minutes.

£178.83

MATAKKI M2 HAIR TEXTURE RAZOR

Matakki hair texture razors for use in hairdressing and barbering to add a different dimension to your cut. The M2 is manufactured from high-grade, soft-touch moulded plastic that will not slip out of your hand. Includes 1 Japanese surgical steel blade that prevents the clogging of cut hairs, and also guarantees a superior cutting performance.

£20.00

UPPERCUT DELUXE SHAVE CREAM

Uppercut Deluxe Shave Cream quickly builds a creamy lather for a close, comfortable shave, containing a bespoke soothing complex to help prevent razor burn and hydrate the skin. Ideal for dry or sensitive skin. Part of the brand new Uppercut Deluxe Shave Range!

£9.00

BARBER PRO FACE PUTTY & UNDER EYE MASK SET

Elevate your barber shop offering with the Barber Pro trade exclusive Face Putty + Under Eye Mask Set. This is a great dual treatment you could use to enhance your appointments - cleansing and refreshing the skin while you work on the trim.

£28.80

Add On Treatment Price - £5, Revenue Per Box - £60

CLUBMAN PINAUD TALC (255G)

The barber classic, world famous since 1810. Made from the finest quality talcum powder with the classic Clubman fragrance, this is a must have for any barber shop.

£6.00

WAHL CORDLESS DETAILER LI (GOLD)

Sharpen up your lines with the Wahl Cordless Detailer fitted with an extra-wide T-Blade, 6mm wider than the standard T-blade! The incorporated revolutionary Lithium Ion battery technology is lightweight and powerful, providing up to 100 minutes running time from just a 45 minute charge, with the option for use on the cord for continuous power. An LED light indicates the power level so you always know how much charge is left. The space saving charging stand is weighted and easily grips any surface for secure charging.

£175.00

JOIN THE CREW

CHOOSE THE PUCK

FOR YOU

Create your own customised Trimmer, Clipper or Foil Shaver.

With a choice of 10 colours and personalised engraving, you can customise your tools to suit your creativity, personality, and style.

EVO ON THE ROAD.

LIVERPOOL COLLECTION

Hair// Pete Cranfield, Tariq Howes.

Models// Rossco Hartup, Will Halbert, Chris Athuai, Liam Campbell, Paul Wright, Taylor McCoy. Tools// BaByliss Pro. Photography// Liam Oakes.

Hair// Rob Wood, Natalie Cresswell, Emily Breen, Charlie Holmes. Make Up// Amanda Bell.

Photography// Marie Harkness.

Models// Michael Knight, Jonathan Thain, Charlie Holmes, Ian Portsmouth, Markus Franklin.

GOODBYE SUMMER, HELLO AUTUMN! QUARTER FOUR IN THE BUSINESS CALENDAR IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER, SO IT’S TIME FOR US TO TAKE STOCK AND CONSIDER: WHAT HAVE WE DONE WELL, WHAT CAN WE DO BETTER, AND WHAT ARE WE DOING NEXT? HERE’S MORE...

So, what have we done well? This year, we’re extremely proud to say that we’ve created media zones for some of the biggest hair and beauty events in North America and the UK, including Premiere Orlando, America’s Beauty Show, CT Barber Expo, Barber Connect, and Las Vegas Barber Expo. We also hosted our first ever EVO on the Road education event with BaByliss PRO in Liverpool – and we hope to deliver many more in the coming 18 months or so. Next, let’s look at what we can do better. One of our huge features in this issue is on Textured hair, which is an integral part of our industry that isn’t really getting the recognition it deserves. For this to improve, everyone must acknowledge their shortcomings and strategise how to improve – that includes us! Our goal has always been to represent the voices and talents of Black and ethnic minority professionals through interviews, collections, covers, and brand recommendations. Our team absolutely loved picking the brains of some of the UK’s most celebrated

Textured hair specialists, learning about the history, techniques, and benefits that Textured and Afro hair services offer for every stylist and business owner –whether that’s creatively or lucratively. Our Editor, Jennifer, gives you some insight on the next page!

Finally, let’s look at what we’re doing next! We are currently existing in an incredibly exciting era for EVO Enterprises. Our team is growing as we continue to ramp up our event schedule and increase our media presence across the global hair and beauty industry. We’ve had a few weeks to reset after a hectic summer of events (we loved every second) and have some huge plans for the remainder of 2023 and into 2024.

NOW is the time to level-up your business – if we can do it, you definitely can! Keep reading to enrich your career and push the boundaries of what you’re capable of. You can find us on Instagram @barberevo and Facebook at BarberEVO Magazine. Email us at info@barberevo.com

ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

WELCOME TO BARBEREVO UK & IRELAND ISSUE 40! GOODBYE SUMMER AND HELLO AUTUMN. KIDS ARE BACK IN SCHOOL AND WE ARE GEARING UP FOR THE BUSIEST SEASON IN THE BARBERSHOP. SO, PUT YOUR FLIP FLOPS AWAY AND GET YOUR PENCILS OUT,

A lot has been going on this summer, from our EVO on the Road with BaByliss PRO, to Barbersride and Captain Fawcett’s Great Expedition, a lot of adventures on the road! But this time of year, engines are starting to cool down – but not for too long!

Autumn is fast approaching, so in this issue, we cover all of the latest and greatest trends and styles, from the rockstar cuts, textured mullets, perfect pompadours. We also chat with Paul Devlin about the benefits of getting creative and creating Halloween inspired collections.

Let’s talk texture. As a barber, you’ll want to make sure that no matter who sits in your chair, you can be confident working with their hair – regardless of the hair type, texture or style. This issue, we talk though all the hair textures, and how to choose the right tools based on the hair texture.

‘CAUSE

CLASS

IS IN SESSION!

Next, we talk about business. From choosing the right payment and booking system, how build your price list, to the benefits of franchises, how to grow your business, and how to ensure your business is sustainable. We also talk a bit about how investing in your shop’s visual appearance and branding can make a major difference.

Beards and moustaches can become a big part of a guy’s identity. In fact, there are a lot of guys out there that are more attached to their facial hair, than the hair on their head. But there is a fine line between a beard giving ‘sexy lumberjack’ or ‘I’ve been living in the woods for three months.’ How do you get over that line? Have a committed and knowledgeable barber on your side. So,

SHORT CUTS.

Alan Beak is Director and Co-Founder of RUGER, Wahl UK Creative Director, Boosky Brand Ambassador, American Crew Elite and Muzutani advocate – and now the proud new Co-Lead for The Fellowship of British Hairdressing’s PROJECT: MEN. Alan gave us the lowdown on his new venture: “First and foremost, I feel honoured and privileged to be even asked to help with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Obviously, with the Fellowship having such a prestigious and massive reputation in the hair world, to be a barber coming into this from a barbering background is huge for me and for the movement to bringing barbering and hairdressing together. Working with Simon Shaw on the Fellowship’s PROJECT: MEN will be a great opportunity to bring some great education to barbers and hairdressers alike, as well as to learn from one of the best – and from the upand-coming young professionals, too.”

Alan continued to share some insight on his role with the team: “My role within the Fellowship is to be the co-lead on the PROJECT: MEN and media. So we will be mentoring students on how to present, how to grow both their online presence and in their personal brand or barbershop business. We’re helping them develop and learn how to make a name for themselves in the barbering and hairdressing industries.“

He continued: “It’s safe to say that you’ll be seeing my face a lot more in certain events throughout the event circuit. Simon has already booked me in for six different events!

MR. BARBERS COMPLETES 100KM WALK FOR CHARITY

He’s given me carte blanche when it comes to my aspect of teaching with the students, which is something that I’m looking forward to. Something that I’ve always done is tread my own path and don’t sing from anyone else’s song sheet and I think that’s one of the qualities that Simon has seen in me and he wants me to kind of take the lead with some of the studnets and help them grow and develop as much as possible.“

Alan summed up what he hopes will be the result of him joining the team. “I want more than anything for the elevation of our industry. It has evolved massively over the last few years, as far as 20 to 30 years or so. I want to add as much value to these people and help as many of them as possible. The reputation of the barbering world has a specific genre and I want it to be broader – I want the spectrum of our skillsets to be more closely combined with hairdressing. So that barbers can execute cuts, from classic men’s cuts to longer styles, and everyone else who steps through their doors. Hair is hair, no matter the gender, age, race, cultural background. For me it’s that simple: hair is hair, most of us have it. So for me, it’s about that amalgamation and cross pollination between two industries to be unified all over the world and I hope that’s what I can bring to the team.“

CAPE GANG DROPS PRICE ON PREMIUM DESIGN BARBER CAPES

It’s official! All Cape Gang capes are now just £20; reducing prices without reducing the premium quality of the product itself. All the elements you know and love about Cape Gang aren’t going anywhere... Each design comes in its own reusable drawstring bag, which can be used to carry clippers and products. The stretch lycra neck, popper fastenings, oversize for more client coverage, the long back length, and water resistant and lightweight design are still the hallmark of the

Cape Gang brand. You’re getting more bang for your buck – who doesn’t want that?!

The team believes that everyone should be able afford their capes. On Instagram, the team said: “We pride ourselves on premium quality professional barber capes and we stand by that. You won’t ever see the quality drop, but you will see your barbershop thrive. Invest in the best… buy Cape Gang!” Sign up to the Cape Gang newsletter to get 10% OFF and hear about exclusive discounts first! capegang.com

A team of barbers from the MR Barbers team tackled the ultimate non-stop 100km (62 miles) walking challenge in less than 24 hours for Alzheimer’s Research UK. After months of training, the team of seven walked a gruelling 100km loop route through the heart of the Cotswolds. They started the momentous challenge at 7am on Saturday morning, and walked continuously for 23.5 hours, in the heat, humidity and complete darkness, before reaching the finishing line, at 6:30am on Sunday morning.

Karl Foster, Director at MR Barbers, said: “I have done several events over the years so when Mark Lovell asked if we could do an event with the guys from MR, I jumped at the chance. We chose three charities and let the group vote on which they preferred. Dementia is such a cruel condition so raising awareness and money for Alzheimer’s Research gives me drive to achieve. Any time anyone asks me what it was like to walk for 23.5 hours through some incredible but tough terrain, the word that I would use is ‘brutal.’ I’m proud of the guys for even attempting it, it’s such an achievement that I am personally so glad that I was part of it. We’ll attempt a challenge each year as part of our growth, inviting barbers to get involved. We will have challenges for anyone that wants to take one on!”

Ride On!

THAT’S ANOTHER YEAR OF BARBERSRIDE IN THE BOOKS! THE RIDERS COMPLETED ANOTHER FIVE-DAY JOURNEY THROUGH THE BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY OF IRELAND, AND REACHED THEIR TARGET OF RAISING £25K! WE SPOKE TO XAVIER BERRELL TO HEAR ABOUT THIS YEAR’S ADVENTURE.

Established in 2017, BarbersRide was started by a bunch of biking barbers and industry guys that wanted to combine their love of biking and barbering with a fundraising charity event. In August 2017 the first event kicked off, from Dundee to London over five days and was a roaring success, raising over £10,000. Since then, every year has got bigger and better, and they have proudly raised over £135,000 for charity, this year raising over £25,000 for Make-A-Wish Foundation.

I asked what three words describe BarbersRide 2023 in Ireland. Xavier said: “Barbers, Bikes, Beers!” Guinness, we presume!

For most of the riders, BarbersRide is all about camaraderie and getting a chance to get out of the barbershop for some fresh air and good times. Xavier said: “Like every year, it’s the people that make the ride. You build up life-long friendships on the ride and every year we can’t wait to see each other again and have a great time on our bikes.”

The gorgeous winding roads and green landscape of Ireland were the backdrop for this year’s event. Xavier said: “When we discussed the route for 2023, everyone was super excited about the idea of visiting Ireland. It’s the first ‘overseas’ BarbersRide with great roads and of course, the famous Irish hospitality didn’t hurt either!”

What was the journey like? No surprise, but Ireland was a little wet and rainy for the riders. But that didn’t stop a lot of fun being had. Xavier said: “There are so many great roads in Ireland; The Wild Atlantic Way, The Northern Ireland Causeway Road and the mountains between

Cork and Kerry to name but a few. We tend to seek out the “road less travelled,” and it has been an amazing journey.”

The team made a bunch of great pitstops at barbershops like Fat Tony’s, T. McMahon’s, and Illuminati Barber Society, and they even made a detour to Londonderry/Derry to pop in to see their hosts at Denman Brush. Russell Lee said: “We heard an emotional and powerful story of a good friend of our James that reminded each rider of why we ride: to grant the wishes of every eligible child for Make A Wish UK. James, we revved our engines hard for you, little brother!”

We asked Paul “Jono” Johnson, a first-year rider, what drew him to ride this year. He said: “My pals Dan Rix and Ben Edwards have been pestering me for a few years to get involved so this year I took the plunge. We’re in the BarbersRide WhatsApp group that’s really active so I felt like I knew a lot of the riders before the ride even began! Riding with 40 other bikers around Ireland was great fun and we raised money for very poorly kids, so it’s a win-win.”

Finally, we asked Xavier what he would say to a barber considering getting involved with BarbersRide 2024. He said: “I would really recommend it to anyone considering joining. We are a great bunch of lads and lasses, and new riders always receive a big welcome. You’ll have amazing fun, make great friends and do a lot of good by raising money for Make-A-Wish – what could be better!”

Until next year, BarbersRide!

ORDER YOUR LIMITED EDITION BARBERSRIDE

CORDLESS SUPER TAPER WAHL CLIPPERS!

All proceeds will go to Make-A-Wish UK & Ireland!

ONLY 50 AVAILABLE!

Be part of this amazing fundraising endeavour by ordering yourself one of the Limited Edition BarbersRide Clippers. Go on, grab one now... while stocks last! Everyone loves a brand-new set of magnificent Wahl clippers... and this special release is also doing something pretty incredible to make wishes come true for terminally ill children and their families.

£100.00 // Barbersride.com

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LEG TWO// PART ONE.

CAPTAIN FAWCETT’S RIGHT-HAND MAN, RICHIE FINNEY, IS BACK IN THE SADDLE! A MODERN-DAY KNIGHT ERRANT, HE’S RIDING SOLO THROUGH EUROPE ON HIS TRUSTY MOTORCYCLE. HIS INTENTION? TO SHOWCASE QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH GROOMING IN BARBERSHOPS ACROSS 24 NATIONS. WILL HE MAKE IT? WE CHECK IN AS HE JOURNALS HIS TONSORIAL TRAIL, FROM ROTTERDAM TO HELSINKI…

DAY 1// KING’S LYNN AND BEYOND Somewhat perturbed by HQ’s glee as I kicked my steed to life and vanished in a flash of ignition. Could it be they’re glad to see the back of me? No matter. For an old cowboy chasing the sunset, there’s only the road ahead. Colour me gone.

DAY 3// AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

Stopped into legendary Schorem, ‘The Holy Ashtray’, where stories are woven in whisky and smoke. Crossed paths with a Tasmanian traveller, chasing razors and dreams. Mane manager Mikey sculpted my beard. Superbly. Onwards, then! To the New York Barbershop, beauty rising from echoes of the old docks. Met a Spanish blade whisperer from Galicia who came to NYBS for a month. Four years passed in a blink. What a place.

From one Dam to the next. At Barbershop Van de Hare, Marc and Miranda adorned my lapel with the Silver Barber Pole brooch, for service to the international barbering industry. Hugely honoured! Look out for their Barber Society Magazine and book into Amsterdam’s annual event Barber Society Live! Hotfooted it to the Red Light zone and Shab’s District Barbers, a tonsorial beacon right up the Captain’s strasse! Joined by Jaap of Hair Pomades, Captain Fawcett’s first ever commercial distributor! A delight! And so to bed, after a splendid evening with Captain Fawcett Ambassador Extraordinaire Mr Snorrie Morrie adding his moustachioed intrigue to events.

DAY 2// ROTTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

2 // ROTTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

DAY 4// HAMBURG, GERMANY

Now to Friseursalon Rieckhoff, a veritable shrine to Pomade, established in 1952 by owner Jen’s father. A time machine of fragrance and delight!

DAY 7// BORAS, SWEDEN

Next stop Johnssonn’s Herrfrisering. A third generation, minimalist delight, now the legacy of Oliwer, son of my dear friend Kenneth Johnsson. Several ‘Bearded Villains’ gathered in greeting. This international brotherhood raise phenomenal amounts of money for charities. Well done gents!

DAY 5// SVENDBORG & NÆSTVAD, DENMARK

Crossing the Danish frontier, I rendezvoused with Ben, of Mr Higgins Barber, a Colorado soul whose shop is a motorcyclists’ dream, a custom Royal Enfield bobber taking pride of place in the window! Next The Gentleman's Barbershop called. A symphony of yesteryear, adorned with Mantiques and erotic art, with a wine bar alongside. Supper on the terrace - superb! And Tak! to George, Captain Fawcett’s Danish distributor, for the gift of delectable chocolate-coated liquorice.

DAY 6// COPENHAGEN, DENMARK & LANDSKRONA, SWEDEN

Into the arms of Mermaid City! Ahoy Kristine at Aurbakken Hairdressers! Who should be in the chair? None other than Lars Elbæk, national TV star who tames his magnificent upper lip with Captain Fawcett’s Moustache Wax! Then lo and behold, Rob from Dashing Blades, walked through the door, on a weekend break! Gadzooks! Small world! I raced on, across 5 miles of the Oresund Bridge (linking Denmark and Sweden) to Landskrona and HK Barbers. On this Midsummer festival, the crew would normally have a day off, however blades united, as owner Hussein opened especially for my visit and the whole gang from both barbershops (another’s in Malmö) came to salute this wanderer’s path. Incredibly cool! Cheers to the whole crew!

DAY 9// OSLO, NORWAY

DAY 8// HVALER, SWEDEN

A sombre day. I travelled to salute a fallen friend, Per Simble, and mourn the hour of his passing. Our incredible adventures will remain alive in my memory. I ride on, a kindred spirit riding shotgun, his epitaph etched in the wind.

Arriving in Oslo, my heart was lifted by Marius’s marvellous beard trim at Pels Pels Barbershop. Met the renowned Scandinavian Beard Club, Skjeggmenn, and their President Morton Bråthen, famed for the Father Christmas Run, delivering presents to Children’s Hospitals! Then to a bar-room rendezvous with Lars, Captain Fawcett’s esteemed Norwegian distributor.

DAY 10// OREBRO, SWEDEN

Before my onward odyssey, I nipped to Pels Pels Schuzler, a delightfully old school Barbershop. Call in and tell ’em the Captain sent you! Meanwhile, I return to Sweden. Today is Jessie’s Barbershop, where all-female barbers wield razors and rebellion! Each resembles a Vargas 50’s Pin-Up, a superb homage to biker belle tattooed culture! Yet this lone wolf must journey on. To Chia's Barber Shop, for pastries, coffee and a couple of games of pool. Wonderfully generous, as the crew was leaving for Alicante at 2am! Met Rajan who’s just been working in a Barbershop in Long Sutton, only 6 miles from my Norfolk home.

DAY 11// SPÅNGA & BROMMA, SWEDEN

A riotous red carpet welcome at Georges Klipp & Barbershop where bearded brethren gathered for a wonderful feast. The Swedish Bearded Villains roared in, including my chum Kim Johansen, highly esteemed Captain Fawcett Ambassador! Thence to The House of Barbers in Bromma, Swedish HQ of gentleman’s grooming dreams! What a showroom! Tremendous! Thankyou! Delightful to be met by more barbers, bikers and beards, including Fawcett Ambassador Extraordinaire Carl-Johan Kellgren of Herr Svartskaegg Tattoo. Huzzah!

DAY 12// STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

Pitched up at Mannerstals Herrfrisering, a lovely old school, third generation Barbershop. Established over 70 years ago, it’s now run by Peter and his son Alan a previous Swedish Barber of the Year winner. The symphony of time plays on!

DAY 13// HELSINKI, FINLAND

Leevi, owner of Greasy Fingers and Captain Fawcett’s esteemed distributor in Finland rode in from Tampere. We headed to Dick Johnson, a truly great Barbershop, ‘approved by Satan’ and decorated with risqué references. Did I mention his best-selling ‘Ball Wax’? Brilliant beard trim by Irish nomad barber Dara from Belfast.

DAY 14// HELSINKI, FINLAND

Post breakfast pit stop at Por Vida Barbering for a chinwag with notorious Reuzel Scumbassador Uncle Ronnie. In his infamous ‘safe space for dangerous people’, I felt most at home. Yet the road whispered its summons. Onward. Thank you Finland.

‘FASTER, FASTER, FASTER UNTIL THE THRILL OF SPEED OVERCOMES THE FEAR OF DEATH…’ - HUNTER S THOMPSON

Stay tuned for more of Richie’s barbering adventures as he leaves the Nordics behind and sets sail for the heartland of the Baltic. Next stop Estonia.

OUR FIRST EVER 'ON THE ROAD' EVENT WAS A ROARING SUCCESS. TWO OF BRITAIN'S FINEST BARBERS TOOK TO THE STAGE IN LIVERPOOL, UK, PRESENTING MASTERCLASSES FOR A SOLD-OUT ROOM OF HAIR PROFESSIONALS. THIS IS WHAT WENT DOWN...

EVO On The Road went OFF! Our debut LIVE event, powered by BaByliss PRO was a sell-out success! We couldn’t have done it without the immense support from BaByliss PRO. Our educators Pete Cranfield and Tariq Howes brought their A-games with bite-sized advanced education demonstrations. They both gave deep and meaningful contributions to our career focused Q&A session as well.

Pete said: “This event couldn’t have gone better. The love I felt in the room was incredible.”

Pete is a freelance barber for some of the biggest names in British football (or should we say soccer?!). He’s known for his incredible closecut work using fading expertise and creativity that allows him to work freely on longer styles, proving that modern barbers can enhance their

LIVERPOOL

male haircutting game by learning hairdressing skills. “I’m not sure how the BarberEVO guys did it, but they pulled off the perfect evening and to be a part of it was truly humbling. I’d love to see it grow as a staple event, not just in the UK, but North America, too.”

Celebrated session stylist, Tariq has done commercial work with brands like Zara, and on-location for TV shows like Love Island. He was our second BaByliss PRO educator: “An intimate setting built for networking and skill, focusing on how we can help each other as a community not just about being on stage showboating. It was about giving people insight to different techniques. Being part of the very first one was a massive privilege, and

“TREMENDOUS SHOW. FIRST CLASS. WE ENJOYED IT ALL THE WAY THROUGH, AND LEARNED A LOT OF GREAT TECHNIQUES. A LOT OF GREAT TALENT ON STAGE ”

- ROBERT RIX

Co-Owner of The Company of Master

Barbers, Southport,

UK

Location // Scale, Liverpool, UK.

Photography // Liam Oakes

Paul Taylor Clinch, is the owner of Blacksails Barbershop and an educator for many brands. He said: “Finally! An event by barbers for barbers. A fantastic collaboration with some of the biggest BaByliss PRO artists and the biggest barber mag!” Barber and videography sensation, Danny Robinson said: “It was a fantastic event. I am very grateful to have been part of it. Tariq is a close friend of mine, so it was great to support him and be part of the team. Pete was absolutely fantastic in his hometown. The haircuts we phenomenal too. Looking forward to future events from EVO!” Watch this space for more unique EVO events and trade show activations.

FOLLOW US FOR UPDATES: Instagram @barberevo Facebook @BarberEvo YouTube @evoenterprises barberevo.com

“

THIS INTIMATE SETTING ALLOWED FOR NETWORKING AND SHARING OF REAL SKILLS, FOCUSING ON HOW WE CAN HELP EACH OTHER AS A COMMUNITY, NOT JUST ABOUT BEING ON STAGE AND SHOWBOATING.”

- Tariq Howes

BaByliss PRO Ambassador, Booksy UK Ambassador, Owner of Avenue Male Grooming

AMERICAN CREW FORMING CREAM

This water-based styling cream provides all - day hold, excellent pliability and a natural shine. Forming Cream uses humectants to provide a moveable hold while conditioning and moisturizing the hair, paired with a holding agent to encourage firmness, body and fullness. americancrew.com

REM THE VOYAGER SELECT

Retro styling and thick upholstery brings style and panache to the shop. With a full reclining movement, powerful hydraulic pump, adjustable headrest, shave hook and towel rail. Option of 25 fabric colour made to your specification.

£1,079.00 +vat // rem.co.uk

A CUT ABOVE

TAKARA BELMONT LEGACY 95 MODERN VINTAGE

Its deep cushioned spring-loaded seat, reclining backrest and padded headrest ensure optimum comfort . The iconic stainless steel footplate combines with a wide range of colours making it customisable to complement any interior style and colour scheme.

£3,700.00 - £4,280.00 // takarahairdressing.co.uk

CAPE GANG MIAMI STRIPE CAPE

The Miami Stripe Cape is part of the NEW Stripe collection from Cape Gang. It serves Summer, Cocktails & USA vibes. Also available LA Stripe & Cali Stripe. Go check them out at £20.00 // capegang.com

SUREPURE 3000MG CBD OIL

Crafted to perfection, this potent formula may deliver an unparalleled sense of calm and well-being. Extracted from the finest organically grown hemp, our CBD oil is rich in cannabinoids and terpenes, promoting holistic wellness.

£59.99 // lovemorelifestyle.com

ANDIS THE MASTER CORDLESS CLIPPER

Its high-speed rotary motor operates at an impressive 7,200 strokes per minute, ensuring a smooth and efficient cutting experience. Thanks to Constant Speed Technology, the clipper maintains consistent performance without stalling or dragging.

andis.com

THE WAHL SINGLE FOIL SHAVER

The ultimate compact finishing tool ideal for reaching the intricate areas around the ears, beard and neck line. The ultra-fine foil cuts as close as 0.05mm and bump-free shaving.

£49.99 // wahl.co.uk

WAHL GOLD MAGIC CLIP

BROSH ORIGINAL POMADE

Specially designed to fix dense hair, such as Japanese hair. Easy to style, even by hand, thanks to its light, nonsticky texture. Strong hold and medium shine with a flawless finish. Coming Soon to chrisandsons.co.uk

A worldwide best-seller made golden. With a more powerful motor and diamond-like staggertooth blades encased in golden hardware; your fade game is about to level up.

£221.99 // wahl.co.uk

“MY HAIR HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY BIGGEST INSECURITY. MY FRIEND RECOMMENDED ROB SIX YEARS AGO AND MY LIFE CHANGED THE SECOND I SAT IN HIS CHAIR. THE SYSTEMS ARE GREAT QUALITY, WITH INCREDIBLE ADHESIVE THAT WITHSTANDS MY ACTIVE LIFESTYLE IN THE GYM.”

MICHAEL KNIGHT, NEWCASTLE-BASED MODEL AND PERSONAL TRAINER

“WHEN YOU SEE SOMEONE WITH NO HAIR, THEY DON'T LOOK AT THEMSELVES IN THE MIRROR, THEY LOOK DOWN AT THEIR HANDS. AND THEY DON'T EVEN REALISE

THEY'RE DOING IT. THE NOVO CABELO BRAND HAS BEEN TAILORED BY ROB IN SO MANY WAYS.”

NATALIE CRESSWELL, FOUNDER OF CRESSWELL BARBER CO.

NOVO CABELO TH E POWER OF

15.4 MILLION BRITISH PEOPLE DEAL WITH HAIR LOSS –AND ROB WOOD, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF NOVO CABELO, WANTS TO HELP AS MANY OF THESE PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE. WE GOT TO KNOW THE BRAND AND FOUND OUT WHY THEY USE ARTERO TOOLS TO EXECUTE WORKS OF HAIR ART.

It is estimated that hair loss and hair thinning affect 70% of all UK men before they reach 70. Around 1 in 2 women experience the same thing before they’re 50. Permanent hair loss can be devastating, often resulting in low confidence, low self-esteem, anxiety, and depression. Novo Cabelo offers bespoke hair systems services that not only enhance appearance but boost confidence, too.

Founded by industry professionals with more than a decade of hair replacement system experience, Rob and his team are always focused on fashion, image, and enhancement. They operate a modern approach to hair replacement, tackling common misconceptions about hair systems and ensuring that clients are bang on-trend.

In three years, Novo Cabelo have racked up an excess of 168,000 likes on Instagram for their incredible hair transformation videos, and an astounding 2.3 million likes on TikTok.

We were privileged to have behind-thescenes access to their most recent shoot, housed in contemporary Newcastle-based creative space, Hidden Heights Creative Studio Rob was joined by the Cresswell Barber Co team, who are trained specialists in Novo Cabelo hair systems, to bring his Miami Vice '80s/’90s vision to life.

The shoot itself was incredible (peep our cover), but it was the comradery and confidence that bred effortless cool on set. Natalie Cresswell, Founder of Cresswell Barber Co., told us why the day was so special: “When you see someone with no hair, they don't look at themselves in the mirror. They look down at their hands and don't even realise that they're doing it. The Novo Cabelo brand has been tailored by Rob in so many ways. The waterbased glue and membrane that the hair sits on works in harmony with the scalp to protect skin whilst making our clients look good. Rob has selected just two versions that he thinks work best with diverse skin types. We can give every client hair that looks truly natural – and that’s a gift!”

Michael Knight, Newcastle-based model and personal trainer sported a bleach blonde hair system – think Ryan Gosling circa Drive and Place Beyond the Pines. He told us how Novo Cabelo helped him deal with family genetics of alopecia and premature male pattern baldness: “My hair has always been my biggest insecurity. My friend recommended Rob six years ago and my life changed the second I sat in his chair. 

Photography // Marie Harkness

"The systems are great quality, with incredible adhesive that withstands my active lifestyle in the gym – my sweaty lifestyle, essentially,” he laughed. “I change the system every three weeksish to avoid any sweat or bacteria build-up on my scalp. My confidence is higher than ever!”

Barber Charles Daniel Holmes is manager for Cresswell Barber Co. and Novo Cabelo-trained hair systems specialist. He modelled a classic ‘70s look (tinted glasses, cigar, and high-waisted trousers included) and told us what drew him to Novo Cabelo. “I lost my hair when I was 22. I shaved my head and tattood it to detract from the fact that I was balding.

“Before hair systems, I never used to smile. Now, I smile in every photo! It changes the way you see yourself and even the way that you carry yourself. When I became a barber, I wanted to give other people the opportunity to experience the hair systems like I had, so Natalie and I brought Novo Cabelo systems into Cresswell Barber Co. It’s been an incredible journey.”

Rob’s passion and dedication are as authentic as they come. Keen to help the client and the professional alike, Rob has launched Novo Pro This training academy mentors teams on how to supply, fit, and maintain the Novo Cabelo non-

surgical hair systems. Rob told us: “I design my hair systems education around people. I teach in a way that I wish I was taught – with heart and an acceptance that everyone learns at different rates, especially when it comes to something as technical as hair systems.”

He continued: “I delve into how to talk about mental health and be a listening ear for your hair loss clients. A lot of emotion comes with hair loss and we, as professionals, need to understand how to respectfully help the people in our chair.”

We delved into the practicalities of the hair systems process, from scalp prep and installation to styling and aftercare. Rob told us: “We prep with Novo Cabelo’s The Clean Up Scalp Cleaner which removes old glue to keep the scalp clean. Then we go in with prepping the scalp with the Novo Cabelo Don’t Sweat Sweat Blocker and the Novo Cabelo Skin Shield Scalp Protector.”

Finally, we wanted to know what the key is to being a top-class hair systems specialist? Rob revealed: “If you have natural empathy and a desire to change someone’s life, then you’re meant for the job. Anyone can learn the practical skills. What matters is your mindset and approach to helping people. This rewarding service transforms lives –who doesn’t want to be a part of that?”

LOOKING TO BECOME A NOVO PRO?

Gary Groom, Novo Cabelo's Associate Director, told us more: “Our education teams train you from consultation to first fit and then to re-grooms. Our unique training is hands-on and intimate. You will only ever train with live models. We drive new clients to your business through an extended community of specialists and shop owners. Lifetime access to resources from the training programme is included, giving you everything you need to grow your hair replacement business.”

Your Novo Pro benefits are:

• N ovo Pro Loyalty Scheme for discounts and bonuses.

• Your business location pinned to our national directory.

• Free digital marketing pack.

• Use of our internationally recognised branding.

• Supply of only the highest quality products.

• Fast delivery from our UK warehouse.

• M embership of our professional community on Facebook.

• Ongoing technical help and support.

• Book your place at learn.novocabelo.co.uk

“I DESIGN MY HAIR SYSTEMS EDUCATION AROUND PEOPLE. I TEACH IN A WAY THAT I WISH I WAS TAUGHT – WITH HEART AND AN ACCEPTANCE THAT EVERYONE LEARNS AT DIFFERENT RATES, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO SOMETHING AS TECHNICAL AS HAIR SYSTEMS.”

RENEW YOUR TOOLS AND ENJOY YOUR ESSENTIAL PACK

STYLING THE ARTERO WAY

ERIC LOVEMORE IS INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR, AMBASSADOR, AND ADVISOR FOR ARTERO UK. HE ASKED ROB WHY ARTERO TOOLS ARE THE PERFECT FIT FOR HAIR SYSTEM CLIENTS.

With 111 years of experience, Artero has become a reference in both the grooming and the hairdressing worlds. In Spain, Artero has stores in Barcelona, Madrid, Valencia, and thanks to a process of constant internationalization, Artero is now present in over 30 countries all over the globe. The brand is renowned in the UK for their top-class range of hairdressing tools, used by thousands to execute the best looks across salons, barbershops, stages, and sets.

Rob and his team only use topquality tools for styling their topquality hair systems. That's why it was a no-brainer to go with Artero tools. “We use the Artero Joker Cordless Hair Clipper and their Bambina Cordless Trimmer to remove short hairs and any patchy hair growth. I love the Bambina because it works over

different head shapes and is light enough for sensitive areas, making for a safe and sensitive start to every install. We also use Artero’s Inferno Dryer to set the Novo Cabelo Stuck on You Adhesive Glue. This incredible tool sets the glue quickly and evenly, boosting my efficiency with install. After the system is set, we start styling with Artero’s Mystery Cutting Scissor Set, which includes the Mystery Shears – these make it easy to create a natural finish without thinning out too much. It’s a very delicate blade, which I love.”

Rob told us that to achieve a true transformation, he needs tools and products that are consistent. “Artero have great quality and great prices. Other brands make things complicated for the average stylist because of the sheer number of products on offer. Artero have fine-tuned their offerings and I admire that.” •

“WE USE ARTERO’S INFERNO DRYER TO SET THE HAIR SYSTEM GLUE. THIS INCREDIBLE TOOL SETS IT QUICKLY AND EVENLY, BOOSTING INSTALL EFFICIENCY.”

WHAT BETTER TIME TO TALK TRENDS THAN THE PASSING OF ONE SEASON INTO THE NEXT. AS WEATHER CHANGES, SO DO CUTS AND STYLES. WE SPOKE TO EXPERTS IN CUTTING, STYLING, AND COLOUR TO FIND OUT WHAT’S TRENDING FOR FALL ’23 – AND HOW YOU CAN STAY AHEAD.

equinox

Marks the last dying throes of the summer, the end of harvest, and the start of cooler, autumnal days when the leaves turn, heralding the start of winter.

ALWAYS AHEAD

WITH EVERY NEW SEASON COMES NEW TRENDS. AS WE SAY HELLO TO FALL, WE CAUGHT UP WITH AMERICAN CREW’S PHOENIX THOMSON (GLOBAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR) AND ANDREW ZUMBO (BRAND AMBASSADOR & STYLIST) TO FIND OUT WHERE YOU SHOULD BE HONING YOUR SKILLS IN CUTTING AND STYLING.

Men love to maintain a little more weight and length in their hair in autumn, Andrew told us. “For example, it’s a good time for clients to grow their hair out because you can wear hats and beanies, there are fewer events, and you can disguise those in-between awkward phases much easier.”

We wanted to know what five styles Phoenix and Andrew predict for the season ahead. Here’s the shortlist: ‘90s Heart Throb, Shaggy Mullet, Medium Length Classic Men’s Hair Cut, Intentional Grown Out Crop, and the Modern Pompadour. What are their personal favourites?

Phoenix began: “The Intentional Grown Out Crop hairstyle is my favourite because it’s a way of bringing a client from a faded haircut into something looser, less structured, and more modern. It looks uncut and relaxed with texture. It’s also a great hairstyle for that in-between phase when you’re trying to grow out your hair.”

Any tips on executing this deceivingly effortless style? “To create this haircut, you’ll focus on cutting square layers underneath to maximise length around the hairline while keeping a lean shape. To style, use American Crew Fiber Cream for flexibility with control, a refined texture, and a natural shine finish. (Pro tip: it’s an especially great product for medium hair lengths. Try blow drying it in as a foundation before styling). I’ll also use a small amount of American Crew Cream Pomade for its moisturising benefits and to tame the hair for a frizz-free natural look.”

Andrew told us he’s a fan of the classic ‘90s Heart Throb. Why? “Because it heralds back to the scenes during that decade, which are not only nostalgic but a fun, playful style. The hairstyle is quite tactual with looser ends while being youthful.

“To create this cut, you’ll use graduation on the underneath to build weight. Leave as much length

as possible to build a rounder shape. To style with a middle part or front flip, apply American Crew Firm Hold Styling Gel – an American Crew tried and true classic and part of their original six products in 1994 – and American Crew Whip – a rookie but crowd favourite in American Crew’s Styling Puck portfolio.”

How can barbers and stylists go about achieving that nonchalant finish? Andrew recommended: “American Crew Firm Hold Styling Gel is the ultimate for holding power and helps the hair look thicker with added shine; plus, it has a low pH to prevent the scalp from drying. American Crew Whip is great for adding subtle texture for that natural, effortless Leo DiCaprio look too, while providing definition and separation without adding weight to the hair so you’re able to layer if needed.” 

“

AMERICAN CREW FIRM HOLD STYLING GEL IS THE ULTIMATE FOR HOLDING POWER AND HELPS THE HAIR LOOK THICKER WITH ADDED SHINE”

Photography // David Raccuglia

The Medium Length Classic Men’s Hair Cut is always being reinvented and this season is no different. We explored the updated features and styling techniques that make it a popular choice among men with Andrew. He said: “People have been bringing in photos of Christian Bale from American Psycho and asking for a modernised version of that – it’s classic, timeless, and very versatile. A lot of men actually want this as their day-of wedding hair. Plus, it’s an easy style to manage and you can create different looks with different American Crew products. For example American Crew Grooming Cream or American Crew Heavy Hold Pomade can be used for a stronger hold and high shine look, or you can use American Crew Forming Cream or Whip for a natural, effortless look with a little American Crew Alternator for extra volume in front. Finally, we wanted to know, what makes American Crew the ideal brand to execute perfect looks time after time? Phoenix said:

“American Crew has one of the vastest portfolio ranges in the men’s grooming market and specifically designed for different hair types, textures, diversities, lengths, and desired results so you can find everything you need to achieve what you or your client is looking for. All available at americancrew.com or through your local distributor.

“One particular family’ of products that’s great for the seasonal changes and changes of hair length is the American Crew Fiber range: Fiber Classic , Fiber Cream , and Fiber Grooming Foam .”

MODERN POMPADOUR

Phoenix told us what makes the Modern Pompadour different to its classic predecessor.

“The pompadour will always be trendy and timeless and this Autumn we’ll see a modern spin with the classic elements of longer hair on top, styled upward and back, but with a more relaxed and casual twist – less fixed, less

ALL ABOUT THE MULLET

Andrew told us what’s so great about the mullet, and how you can create it in the shop.

“Men today are not afraid to play with shape, texture, and pushing the boundaries of hair. With the shaggy mullet, it’s more of a creative take than a technical take, which offers a different dimension to men’s hair overall. There are also no limitations on a mullet! You can take it pretty much anywhere as a stylist.

“To achieve this haircut, I bring in the sides shorter and then the top

shorter, leaving a lot more length in the back. I also like to add more layers in the back so it’s not too dense, and there is more of a creative element.

“To style a shaggy mullet, you can use American Crew Alternator on damp or dry hair as a flexible base. Then, to add texture and definition, I use American Crew Matte Clay Spray – spray directly onto the hair, work through with your hands for added volume, and reapply for more hold and texture if needed.” •

structured, less shiny, but with a heap of height.

“To achieve this look, American Crew Alternator can be used as a foundation, then follow with a small dosage of American Crew for a light hold and low shine finish with textured American Crew for a bit more shine and touchable shape and texture.”

Check out the QR code for more Pro Tips from the American Crew team!

“STEP INTO A WORLD WHERE ROCK STAR FASHION MEETS CONTEMPORARY COOL. INSPIRED BY THE LEGENDS OF THE PAST, THIS MEN’S HAIR COLLECTION INFUSES HIGH FASHION WITH A MODERN TWIST.”

RISE OF THE ROCKSTAR

ANDIS

INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM

LEAD,

KEVIN LUCHMUN DEBUTED HIS 2023 FALL TREND PREDICTIONS IN HIS MOST RECENT COLLECTION.

In his newest collection of looks, Kevin created and captured two retro-inspired rockstar haircuts, predicting that the longer cuts are not in fact longgone, and the mullet is here to stay.

His styles display a controlled chaos that perfectly complements the edgier autumn looks predicted to take hold in the coming months. Inspired by the shag and the wolf style haircuts that have taken over, Kevin’s newest work refines those styles into wear-anywhere looks that add elegance to the time-tested styles of 1970’s rock and roll.

Kevin said: “Step into a world where rock star fashion meets contemporary cool. Inspired by the legends of the past, this men’s hair collection infuses high fashion with a modern twist. Against a backdrop of dark and moody feel, three models

embody the rebellious spirt of rock, showcasing different lengths and textures, vibrant colours and details throughout.”

Keeping the volume, but leaving the length behind, Kevin brings a unique and unquestionable sophistication to the upcoming season with his Andis tools by his side. To create these looks, Kevin used his reSURGE and

What else should we expect for Autumn 2023?

Kevin said: “I would say what’s coming into this season for trends is versatile haircut that can be worn natural and effortless. People are going for hair styles that can be worn in many different ways depending on what they’re doing whether they’re going on a night out or down the gym.”

How to Master a Heavily Textured

Mullet

THE MULLET, A TIMELESS HAIRSTYLE THAT BLENDS BUSINESS IN THE FRONT WITH A PARTY IN THE BACK, HAS RESURGED AS A CULTURAL ICON, EMPHASIZING THE SIGNIFICANCE FOR BARBERS TO MASTER THE ART. UNDERSTANDING THE MULLET'S UNIQUE BLEND OF PRECISION AND CREATIVITY ALLOWS BARBERS TO CATER TO CLIENTS SEEKING THIS DISTINCTIVE STYLE, SHOWCASING THEIR EXPERTISE AND VERSATILITY WHILE SATISFYING THE DIVERSE TASTES OF THEIR CUSTOMERS.

We caught up with shop owner and educator Ryan Lewis, to find out more about this style and his steps for creating a heavily textured mullet in poker straight hair.

Ryan said "I absolutely love mullets because of their sheer diversity – there's a mullet for every soul out there, they are a canvas to express passions and personalities. As barbers, delving into the art of

mullet-making is crucial; it's the key to unlock the true potential of this iconic style. Nail it, and you empower people to flaunt their uniqueness; botch it, and it's a tragic tale of awful haircuts."

Step 1: Using STMNT Serum to help with section work, take a vertical section from the crown to the nape of the neck, pulling further away towards the bottom to create a layered effect and more length as you descend.

Step 2: Continue taking vertical sections either side of that middle section all over directed back towards the first section taken. This will create a far fuller and longer look towards the ears ensuring this mullet cannot be missed even from a head on angle.

Step 3: Taking horizontal sections from the crown down, use a deep point cutting technique to break up the edges and create more movement throughout the back of the mullet.

Step 4: Connect the back of the mullet to the top of the hair using a profile section from just below the crown running up to around the recession area of the head.

Step 5: Using a deep point cutting method, create exaggerated “peaks and valleys” in the hair following the guide set by the previous profile section taken. It’s important with such straight hair to cut in deep “peaks and valleys” in order to create a rough textured look.

Step 6: Use a similar technique to chop into the fringe leaving a broken choppy finish to add to this extreme textured look.

Step 7: Grab a natural finish product like the STMNT curl cream and cover the hair before blow drying with a diffuser to bring about a soft pre-styled shape. Step 8: Blend both side panels from a grade 2 into a 3 before using your trimmer to create a blunt, harsh line curving clean from the peak of the hairline back sitting flush with the natural curve around the ears.

Step 9: Take your roughest matte products and work them into the hair in back-and-forth motions allowing the hair to overlap and bring out the extreme texture that’s been cut in! I used STMNT Dry Clay with a little Spray Powder to refine!

CREATE THE PERFECT FRINGE WITH DENMAN prof si al

Tools to prep, style and finish the fringe for every look.

Your fringe tools of choice are the D143, DHH2, D71, D25 and D91.

Sign-up for your Denman Trade Account for 20% o RRP www.denmanbrush.com

AMERICAN CREW GROOOMING CREAM

A high-hold, high-shine styling product that provides moisturizing and conditioning properties to the hair. Create a straight, sleek look with Grooming Cream, or soften naturally curly or wavy hair with use.

americancrew.com

YOUR BRAND HAIR PRODUCTS

This brand believes every barber should have the opportunity to build their own distinctive brand, generate sustainable profit, and build client loyalty through offering high-quality custom branded products.

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ARTERO BAMBINA CORDLESS TRIMMER

Powerful, small trimmer. Useful in all hair areas for its soft and close cut. Easily handles sideburns and contours. T-shaped blade. Ideal for salon resale.

£95.70 // artero.co.uk

DENMAN DELUXE D38 SNAKE POWER PADDLE

This black snakeskin pattern hits all the right vibes for a dark and moody kit addition. The polished pins glide effortlessly through the hair to detangle even the toughest knots. Ideal for prepping, curl definition and blow-drying.

£18.50 // denmanbrush.com

WHENEVER BARBER PAUL DEVLIN, COLOURIST VERITY CLARK AND PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY KRUCZEK COME TOGETHER TO CREATE A COLLECTION, MAGIC HAPPENS. THEIR COLLECTIONS ARE ALWAYS WEIRD, WONDERFUL AND WACKY. WE SPOKE WITH PAUL ABOUT HOW THEY BRING THEIR FANTASTICAL VISIONS INTO THE REAL WORLD.

When it comes to creating otherworldy collections, Paul, Verity and Andy are your dream team. Paul, an awardwinning barber and owner of Devro’s Barbers in Barrow, Verity, a vivid colour expert, and Andy, a versatile and creative photographer; the three bring their visions and ingenuity together to create amazing things.

Paul said: “I love working with Verity and Andy because they are both awesome at what they do and also massively creative. On the projects we have worked on together simple discussions turn into what seems like impossible ideas, but between the three of us, we always strive to create something special.

“I feel we also share the same enthusiasm and drive for looking completely outside the box for inspiration and concepts that would be difficult to create. When we get together the shoots are always great fun, plenty of laughter and despite the amount of work that goes in it's a pretty relaxed atmosphere.”

Last year, the trio created a collection called ‘Strange and Unusual’ where they created looks inspired by classic Tim Burton films like Beetlejuice, Sweeney Todd, Edward Scissorhands, the Corpse Bride, Alice in Wonderland, and the Joker from Burton’s Batman. But during the process, they came up with the idea for their next shoot: a dark take on pirates and mermaids. While Verity took on creating the dangerous, siren-esque mermaids, Paul focused on creating the outlawed pirates. This collection is far from Disney’s idea of pirates and mermaids.

Paul said: “I wanted the styling for the pirates to be more horror orientated and I drew my inspiration from old horror films such as Thirteen Ghosts and Hellraiser.

“The characteristics that I tried to bring across in the shots were: a pirate captain, a first mate/ warrior type of pirate, a tribesman and a psycho who we put in a straitjacket.

The idea was to make them look as horrific as possible and like they’d been roaming the seas for eternity.

“To achieve the look, I used grey spray and textured paint to give a pale dusty look to the outfits which I had put together by shopping at local charity shops. With the addition of some real seaweed, crab carcasses, chains, swords and various other props, the look started to come together. The hair had to fit in with each costume and the hairstyle for each model was chosen to look rough like the costumes they were wearing and the character that they were playing, so to speak.”

Aside from props taken from the sea, I asked Paul about the tools he used to create the looks. He said: “My go-to tools for cutting are my Mattaki Black Ninja scissors and texturising razor. I use Wahl Senior clippers and BaByliss PRO FX skeleton trimmers. I have recently been trying out the Devourer clipper set by Lim Hair which is pretty cool. The trimmers from that set are topnotch for design work.”

Avant-garde hair art is often seen in the salon editorial world, but less so in the world of barbering. We asked Paul why he would encourage barbers to try their hand at creating the otherworldly. He said: “There are so many fantastic barbers out there and as a collective, we are all creative people. I understand that doing editorial-style shoots is the best way to gain exposure for your work with most barbering publications, but the fun and satisfaction of tapping into the depths of your creativity and coming up with a concept of something that you loved as a kid for example and challenging yourself to bring it to life is awesome.

“We all take pictures of our work nowadays and put them on social media, so we are constantly documenting our work and putting it out for the world to see, so to be able to create something so special and personal to you and put it out for people to see is a great feeling in itself even if it’s only a one-off.”

For Paul, getting the opportunity to flex his creative muscles helps keep him creative in the shop, and gives him the opportunity to let his imagination run wild. He said: “Working on shoots like this definitely keeps me more creative, but working in the shop we can only really be as creative as our customers will allow. Doing collections such as this gives you a great outlet

so that all the crazy ideas that come to you from working day to day behind the chair can actually manifest into something good.

“When I’m in the shop I’m always looking for inspiration to get creative at any chance, anything can inspire me, from style change suggestions to simple conversations, a customer who is willing to try something new and will let you do anything is always great. I’m always looking for inspiration for the next collection.”

For those wanting to break out of the barbershop and try their hand at editorial, here is Paul’s advice: “I think that keeping it simple and creating a collection of your best work in an editorial style shoot would probably be the easiest way to break into it.

“Once you have your styles/concept, then you need a photographer that you can transfer your ideas to and who is happy to put their creative spin on things and also advise you throughout the shoot, Andy has always done this for me. Through this, you’ll gain confidence and it’s also a great learning process. Once you’ve done, one you’ll be raring to go on the next.”

“DOING COLLECTIONS SUCH AS THIS GIVES YOU A GREAT OUTLET SO THAT ALL THE CRAZY IDEAS THAT COME TO YOU FROM WORKING DAY TO DAY BEHIND THE CHAIR CAN ACTUALLY MANIFEST INTO SOMETHING GOOD.”

BEAK Alan

AB's

BARBER OF THE MONTH

CAL NEWSOME (@CAL_NEWSOME)

Cal Newsome, based in Bridgnorth, Shropshire is a good friend of mine. Talent isn’t something that you are born with, it’s something that’s worked on and honed over many years. Let’s call it nurture over nature. Cal has defied my theory on that. Not only has he grafted with pride and passion he makes it look so natural, testament to his brilliance. Cal does work his arse off and is a phenomenal barber… genuinely one of the nicest guys in the

THIS MONTH, I CHAT ABOUT WHAT’S GOOD, BAD, AND STRAIGHT-UP ANNOYING ABOUT OWNING A BARBER BUSINESS TODAY! I’LL ALSO LOOK AT THE POWER OF EDUCATION AND WHY IT’S IMPORTANT TO LEARN FROM THE PEOPLE YOU’RE TEACHING... THAT’S HOW WE DEVELOP.

When I began my podcast, “BARBERSOUP” the aim was to share my opinions and thoughts. As the old saying goes, the best way to reinforce your knowledge of a subject is to share what you do know. I talk about things that have piqued my interest or made me happy; things I’ve learned and things that pissed me off. To anyone who’s shared, commented, and given feedback: thank you! Something that made me happy was walking through my shop and realising how diverse the clientele and the team are. They were in all shapes and sizes, ages and genders, colours, and cultures. Being that diverse was always our dream when it came to RUGER.This is how the whole industry should be…

Things I’ve learnt! I’m not that good at washing hair! I spent three days at Chop Hair Studio in Malaysia doing three back-to-back workshops with our insanely talented ambassadors John Lloyd

and Tian Sheng. These guys know how to run a successful barbershop and the Southeast Asian culture blew my mind. Their customer service skills were some of the best I’ve seen in the world and they’re masters of their craft. It wasn’t just the cutting, but when they wash hair, they really fucking wash hair. I came home knowing I had learnt something new.

Something that pissed me off this month was going through the amount of tax we pay as an employee. I’m self-employed, so income tax comes first. Then the businesses – each one pays corporation and VAT. I also pay domestic taxes any time I transfer money from one account to another. Just when we get out of the red, BOOM! Tax bill. Then there’s the rise in materials, interest rates and energy prices. I could go on forever here, but I’ll leave it as I’m angry typing now and keep making mistakes. Anyway! On to the rest of the feature!

CUT OF THE MONTH

AB's

SAM BENTHAM (@SAMRASCALS_)

This edition’s cut of the month comes from the beast of the east… Sam Bentham, owner of Rascals Barbershop in Newcastle. Sam is another one of “them” just like Cal Newsome. He’s annoyingly good, I look at both of their work and think I know fuck all about my job. But massive props to Sam I know how hard he works and the effort he puts into everything he does. There’s too many of Sam’s images to pick but I went with the one you see here because….

“YOUR VALUE DOESN’T DECREASE BASED ON SOMEONE’S INABILITY TO SEE YOUR WORTH”

As barbers, we constantly raise the bar, with standards, education, equipment, and tools. Rent and energy bills are always rising not to mention interest rates, rent and taxes. We invest so much time, effort and money into our businesses to evolve and to continue elevate the reputation and status of our trade that that we love, passionately and dearly that we endure and absorb all of these costs out of guilt of passing it onto the client. But everything mentioned comes at a cost. So, what we’re saying here is that the harder we work the less we get paid. What’s the solution? We raise our prices! To value our self-worth! But we’re ethical and moral people, empathetic people. Peoples people. That’s why were in this job because we love it. But where does that stop, where do we set the line? Barbers toy with the idea of raising their prices and lose sleep over it for days/ weeks because of the fear of the backlash, I’m super guilty of that! Will I lose clients? Will I lose them to a cheaper shop, will I seem like I’m taking the piss or advantage? The answer is absolutely and vehemently NO!

After having a long overdue financial meeting with my accountant, we worked out prices, gross in comparison to net, after the monumental amount of taxes and bills and it worked out the me and Reece were making £12 profit per haircut. This scared the life out of me, so we made the decision to up out prices considerably to what we thought was fair and what aligned with our and value and overall worth. Yes, you will lose clients as a result, we have seen that already, we’re still busy and still fully booked. So, what does this say? It’s about finding that balance between the people who want you at the price they want or the people who want you at the price you deserve.

All of you reading I can tell you now, you deserve more… this magazine, the clipper, scissor, booking companies all invest so much into research and development just as much as we do, personally I’ve seen Wahl and Booksy spend fortunes on

THE HARDER WE WORK, THE LESS WE GET PAID. WHAT’S THE SOLUTION? WE RAISE OUR PRICES. THIS VALUES OUR SELFWORTH AND VALIDATES THE HIGH STANDARD OF OUR WORK. WE’RE PEOPLE’S PEOPLE, SO IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO DO SO, BUT YOU HAVE TO PRIORITISE YOURSELFAND IF YOUR CLIENTS LOVE YOUR WORK, THEN THEY WILL PAY WHAT YOU’RE WORTH.

ASK Alan

How important is it for barbershops to offer additional services?

CARLIE CARDLE

That depends on how much you want your business to grow! Cutting hair and having barbers work for you is capped, there’s only so many people they can fit in during the day and only so many haircuts you can do and revenue you can generate, until you’re bored of it. Our industry has so many linear avenues that I think it’s imperative for you to venture down new roads to add to your skillset. Learn to thread, do facials, wax, shave, style, take pictures, invest, develop, it’s all growth and doing one thing only will send you mad and bitter. I’ve seen it all too often when older barbers who hates cutting hair and bitches and moans about it. If you don’t want to be that person then add to your repertoire of services and learn, then offer all you can.

BAR

WE INVEST SO MUCH TIME, EFFORT, AND MONEY INTO OUR BUSINESS AND CONTINUE TO ELEVATE THE REPUTATION AND STATUS OF OUR TRADE. WE HAVE TO CHARGE PRICES THAT REFLECT THAT. THIS VALUES OUR SELF-WORTH WHILE CONTINUING TO SERVICE OUR

new technology, and it’s about time we all got the credit and financial gain from that investment. If they don’t like it, then the cheaper barber isn’t too far away. A few haircuts there and they’ll soon realise what’s they're missing out on.

We live in the same townhow do you feel about the volume of barbershops so close together?

DANNY ROBINSON

Me, you, and Killian Maddison are a stone’s throw away from each other. We have such a good relationship with each other and speak loudly about it. We respect each other, so there’s never been any animosity. Our barbershops all have different vibes that attract different clients, so it’s not like we share clients we all have our own unique qualities. Kudos to us in the fact that we all do our own thing and we stay in our own lane and we’re all busy, that’s the most important thing.

If you got given the day off to do anything you wanted, what would be the first thing you would do?

CHARLIE BAKER

First of all a lie in would be a dream, my body clock would wake me up anyway but, first jump up, walk with the dog, that’s the best start to the day followed by a cold plunge. French toast with my wife and kids, then an adventure day, something to do with animals, the farm, the zoo, good food, no phone. The simplest things in life for me are the best. Family and food, Penny the dog and the outdoors. And the second cheeky question whether ketchup should be in the fridge or cupboard… fridge of course!! And chocolate room temp… always!!

“BARBERS CONSTANTLY RAISE THE

WITH EDUCATION, EQUIPMENT, AND TOOLS.

CLIENTS.”

“RAISING THE BAR - AS WELL AS YOUR PRICES”

INCLUSIVITY STARTS WITH EDUCATION.

DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAIR TYPE 1A AND 4C? ARE YOU COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH ANY TEXTURE OF HAIR THAT IS IN YOUR CHAIR? IF NOT, LET YOUR TEXTURE JOURNEY START HERE!

IS IT TIME TO

YOUR SKILLSET?

BY TARIQ HOWES

TARIQ HOWES IS A BARBER OF MANY TALENTS, FROM HIS ROLES AS BABYLISS PRO AMBASSADOR, BOOKSY UK AMBASSADOR, AND OWNER OF AVENUE MALE GROOMING TO SESSION STYLIST FOR FASHION BRANDS LIKE ZARA, LOUIS VUITTON, ASOS AND VETEMENTS, OR ON SHOWS LIKE LOVE ISLAND. ONE OF THE KEYS TO TARIQ’S SUCCESS IS HIS SKILL IN WORKING WITH ALL HAIR TEXTURES AND TYPES, WHICH MAKES HIM VERSATILE FOR ANY JOB.

Having a good understanding of all textures has certainly helped me in furthering my career and my business as well. Being able to cater to different hair types and understand the needs of the different textures has always been a selling point for our salon, then working in fashion and TV, you are always needed to be diverse. I feel I mainly get chosen for my work with Afro hair, but I’m happy that I can offer my hand to all different textures and styles whether that’s on a photoshoot or working on a TV show like Love Island. There will often be more than one texture of hair that needs to be done, so it’s important that as a Men’s hairstylist, I am diverse.

Don’t get me wrong, I have not always been as versatile in my skillset. When I started out as an apprentice, I worked at a traditional Greek barbershop which, to be fair, was diverse in a sense. It was a classic barbershop and had customers who were mainly Caucasian, but we also did a lot of Asian hair, ranging from Chinese, Japanese, Indian, and Pakistani, but I didn’t get much experience with Afro-Caribbean hair. However, one side of my family mainly has Afro-Caribbean hair, as my dad is half Black and half Arab, and I also had curly hair, so it was always important to me to be able to master this type of hair. 

Photography// Liam Oakes.

“AS A BARBER, BABYLISS PRO HAS ALWAYS STOOD OUT TO ME WHEN IT COMES TO POWERFUL MOTORS AND SHARP CUTTING BLADES. THEY HAVE THE PERFECT

So, I practised on friends and family, pretty much anyone who would let me at them. YouTube was young then, but there were a few tutorials but nothing amazing. I used to sit at barbershops where I had my hair cut to pick up tips. In the end, I left that shop I was in for a shop that focused on more AfroCaribbean hair amongst other diverse textures of hair and got better at fading shaping patterns and designs while in the process.

These days, with the education we have at our fingertips, I believe there is no excuse for barbers not having sufficient knowledge of all textures of hair. Yes, people will always have their own strengths and areas of expertise, but there are so many different ways you can access education, from online tutorials, live digital classes, to in-person classes. Speaking of in-person classes, just recently I was part of the EVO on the Road Powered by BaByliss PRO event, in Liverpool. During this, Pete Cranfield and I did several live tutorials on various cuts and shapes. One of my models had Afro hair, so I was able to show the crowd my techniques in cutting and styling, walking them through the look.

It was a quite windy, textured look I created on my model. He had quite tight hair, I’d say 4B, so I pulled it all out with a comb (not too neat) as I wanted to use the natural texture to define the look. Then by taking different-sized sections and using some twist and lock gel, which I applied to my palms, I then palm rolled the hair to give it a twisted spiked look. It reminds me of the Medusa head, the way the twists form when using this technique

Not only is it important for you to have the skill in cutting textured hair, but hair care and understanding protective styling are essential. How you approach hair care is dependent on the curl type. Coily textured hair in general tends to be dryer so moisturising oils and serums are always a good idea if your curl type is 3 or 4. Then it will need a lot more care and needs protective styling or a lot of breakage can be caused especially when heat is being used, such as when you are straightening or blow drying the hair.

Speaking of tools, I believe like barbers or hair stylists, the brands have no excuse but to cater for all hair types and styles. As a barber, BaByliss PRO has always stood out to me when it comes to powerful motors and sharp cutting blades. They have the perfect tools for tackling all hair types and textures. Yes, textured hair can often be more coarse and harder to cut, but sometimes Caucasian and Asian hair can be extremely difficult to tackle. The BaByliss Lo Pro FX clippers/trimmers as well as the Super Motor Clipper and the Skeleton Trimmer can tackle any job you put them up to, whether it's clean shaving, shaping, fading, clipper-over-comb, or free-hand sculpting.

Also, the new BaByliss PRO Falco Hairdryer game changer with the Afro hair comb extension. It makes it so easy to blow out textured hair, prepping it for braiding or even blowing into a creative shape and styling. I love the shallow diffuser piece for drying curly and textured hair. Every element of it is on point.

My favourite product brand for styling Afro hair is the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil range, which are incredibly nourishing products, packaged amazingly, and smell absolutely unreal. Clients are always asking what is from the smell, but most importantly, they do the job! My goto's are the Moisturising Conditioner and the Manketti Hair Oil Mist. I also love the Luster SCurl range for gels and waxes.

For barbers out there who are wanting to get more confident working with different textures, my best advice is to get yourself educated! Get subscribing to online courses, downloading videos, and going on training courses. Then, when you feel ready, put what you are learning into practice by bringing models into the shop. And to all the barbers out there who are confident in your texture abilities but want to get more adventurous with cuts and styles, my advice is to start by thinking about what inspires you! What kind of styles do you want to create? What hairstylists do you look up to? What musicians and fashion brands do you love the aesthetic of? Look through everything new and old that

FOR BARBERS OUT THERE WHO ARE WANTING TO GET MORE CONFIDENT WORKING WITH DIFFERENT TEXTURES, MY BEST ADVICE IS TO GET YOURSELF EDUCATED! GET SUBSCRIBING TO ONLINE COURSES, DOWNLOADING VIDEOS, AND GOING ON TRAINING COURSES. THEN, WHEN YOU FEEL READY, PUT WHAT YOU ARE LEARNING INTO PRACTICE BY BRINGING MODELS INTO THE SHOP.”

BY VIKKI HARRISON-SMITH

TALKING

COLUMNIST, VIKKI HARRISON-SMITH UNPACKS TEXTURE, THE CONNOTATIONS AROUND IT, THE POSSIBILITIES WITHIN IT, AND THE WAYS SHE ADDRESSES IT WITHIN SB BARBERING ACADEMY.

Texture is a word to describe the appearance of a surface. Smooth or coarse it doesn’t matter. In the barbering industry when texture is mentioned we think rough, movement, anything but smooth and flat.

There are many ways to create “texture” depending on the hair density and texture. Thin, medium, thick, curly, wavy, straight, even afro. It’s all about creating that different appearance to the hair.

The varying techniques and tools can help with that. Razor, scissors, clippers, thinning/texture scissors then twisting, splicing, deep points, channels, triangles, twists, chips it’s all a matter of what the barber thinks is best for the hair type and style. Long classic styles worn loose can benefit from channels to help with flow, crops can take a whole load of techniques. I love directional channelling but going in the wrong direction can cause gaps which leaves an awful look to the hair when there’s no product applied. I also love the texture

razor, as I feel it helps remove enough weight from the mid-lengths to ends for that rougher look. Make sure your blade is sharp though or it drags and causes discomfort to the client.

It’s so important to choose your tools and technique wisely. Using thinning scissors incorrectly on fine hair can just make the hair disappear but taking out triangles with them can create that textured look without removing too much hair.

Taking inspiration from hairdressers on long styles is always a good thing. I’ve talked about SB’s long hair program before, as I feel it’s super important. It’s embedded into students during Level 2, long to short, eight important layer cuts, and many texturising/weight removal techniques learned. It’s something I learned during my hairdressing training, and it’s definitely made me a better barber.

I love watching other barbers cut and create because it’s how I’ve expanded my skills over my years in the industry. I’ll guarantee if you watch videos or seminars, you’ll take at least one thing away. Advancing your skills is so important to keep ahead within the industry.

Also, products are so good these days, they can improve your client’s hair and help them maintain the efforts you’ve put into giving them a great haircut. Certain products enhance the texture or movement you’ve created. My favourite combination is Uppercut Deluxe Salt spray, with the Uppercut Power. Salt Spray is a weightless, liquid product that gives light control for a relaxed,

“MY FAVOURITE COMBINATION IS UPPERCUT DELUXE SALT SPRAY, WITH THE UPPERCUT POWER. SALT SPRAY IS A WEIGHTLESS, LIQUID PRODUCT THAT GIVES LIGHT CONTROL FOR A RELAXED, TEXTURED HOLD WHILE MAINTAINING A NATURAL FINISH. THE SMELL ALONE IS A DREAM. LIKE ALL UPPERCUT PRODUCTS, THE PACKAGING IS AMAZING, A SPRAY PAINT STYLE CAN WITH RATTLE AND ALL. ANOTHER VERY POPULAR PRODUCT WITH OUR CLIENTS IS THE UPPERCUT POWDER, AND OFTEN THE TWO ARE USED AND BOUGHT TOGETHER.”

textured hold while maintaining a natural finish. The smell alone is a dream. Like all Uppercut products, the packaging is amazing, a spray paint style can with rattle and all. Another very popular product with our clients is the Uppercut Powder, and often the two are used and bought together.

When I’ve created movement on a longer style with channels, (which I run from just below midlengths to ends, once the hair is blow-dried into place) I love to use a small amount of Uppercut Easy Hold and the Gamma Stylecraft metal texture and definition comb to really show off that moment with a dry finish.

Products should look natural with texture and movement, and enhancing Afro hair is no different. No cutting techniques are needed for that, as it’s all done with a Curl sponge and a small amount of Uppercut beard oil or beard balm. The finished results are amazing, and a lot of our new clients with Afro hair have never used one before, so they leave so happy. This technique creates small knots, and if you run the sponge using the circular motion down the sides into the fade, it all just pops!

Looking back 30 years ago there was nowhere near the number of tools, products or education available as there is now. I love how the industry has grown and how much standards have been raised on so many levels.

I don’t know about you, but I’m happy to keep moving, learning and progressing, that’s what keeps my job exciting!

“THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO CREATE “TEXTURE” DEPENDING ON THE HAIR DENSITY AND TEXTURE. THIN, MEDIUM, THICK, CURLY, WAVY, STRAIGHT, EVEN AFRO. IT’S ALL ABOUT CREATING THAT DIFFERENT APPEARANCE TOTHE HAIR.”

EFFORTLESS

ROMEO THE BARBER IS A BARBER, CONTENT CREATOR, TUTOR , AND SPEAKER. WITH A HOTSHOT CLIENT LIST THAT INCLUDES CECIL JEE THOMAS, DAVIDO, AND THILO KEHRER. HE TOLD US WHY GAMMA+ PUTS HIM A CUT ABOVE THE REST.

Let’s get into it. What sets Gamma+ apart from other brands? "To be honest, it's everything,” Romeo told us. “The way they run and cut is so crisp. A lot other clippers will begin to rust and slow down pretty quickly, but I still have Gamma+ clippers from the first package I got from them three years ago that are running really well without damage. The new releases they've put out just keep getting better and better.”

Romeo explained that if you're a busy barber, you can't work with one trimmer and one clipper –you have to have several of them. “Gamma+ have enough models on offer that you can make sure you always have something really good. The DLC blades, like the DLC Black Diamond Fixed Blade for clippers and the Shallow Black Diamond Moving DLC Clipper Blade are game changers. The clippers themselves last hours of use before they get hot as well. I’ve never had to stop using a clipper throughout the day because of overheating.”

Back when he first started working with the brand, Romeo would constantly mention Gamma+ in his videos. Now, when a client sits in his chair, they'll say, 'Hey man, you better be using Gamma+'. Romeo laughed when he told us: "The feedback from my clients was super positive after I started using Gamma+ because they really elevate your work – and clients can tell. They notice how the clippers feel on their head... They can tell when the clipper isn't Gamma+."

Can your Gamma+ tools cover the different hair types and styles you're working with? "They pretty much cover everything – and that's what I love about the brand. I can trust that the tools will work on every client. They're built to be versatile." Romeo continued: "No word of a lie, I will use the same clipper on all types of hair textures as well as super tight curls.

“When I am working with Afro hair, I normally go for the Saber Cordless Digital Brushless Motor Metal Clipper.

"I'll interchange that a bit with the Gamma+ Absolute Alpha Clipper. With the Saber, I use the fade blade, that flat blade, which allows me to glide through easily, creating a nice shape. The Alpha has the staggered blade, which can go through longer hair. So you've got the small and longer blades, allowing you to cut through more coarse hair.

"There's so much to choose from! But that’s the good thing about Gamma+, they have enough stuff that you can try different combinations to find what works for you and the client sat in your chair. And you can do this for textured hair without worrying about any of your tools getting damaged – honestly, Gamma+ can cut through all hair types no issue. Cutting is effortless."

Romeo didn't have this experience with other clippers, he told us. "For years, the clippers I used kind of struggled through the thicker hair. But Gamma+ doesn't struggle."

Romeo has some pretty high-priority celeb clients, so the last thing he wants is a faulty tool ruining that bigger client's experience. You don't want word getting round that the tools aren't as good as the skills of the barber... "One of the latest celebrities that I worked with said to me, 'Normally whenever barbers open up their toolbox, I look at their tools, and yours just look so much more highend and everything is neat and coordinated.’

“Gamma+ care about how the tool looks as well as its function so when you open a toolkit with clippers and trimmers that allign in aesthetic as well as give really good cuts, making you look like a boss."

Romeo told us that he thought the industry was missing that customisation, where barbers have the options for colour schemes and grip colours etc. "Gamma+ always makes me stand out, for sure." Find Romeo on Instagram as @romeothebarber

THE MASTER OF

LONDON-BASED BRAIDER AND BARBER SHANNON (@SHANSTYLING)

CATERS TO CELEB CLIENTS, INCLUDING KENDRICK LAMAR AND LUDICROUS (SHE HAS OVER 35 MILLION VIEWS ON A VIDEO SHE POSTED WITH HIM!) IN SLIDERCUTS BARBERSHOP. SHE TOLD US HOW TO MASTER BRAIDING AND BARBERING – AND WHY FRESHA MAKES HER LIFE EASIER.

Shannon has some pretty high-profile clients. Krept of Krept & Konan hip hop duo, was a big fan of her work in the early days. "A few brands started reaching out to work with me to braid for shoots or campaigns. Including What Magazine and Treasure Tress, who offer product discovery boxes for kinky and curly hair.”

After specializing in braiding and practicing on her friends and family, Shannon felt it was a natural move to start cutting hair, tooexpanding skillsets is essential to success in this industry, after all. "There were a lot of barbers I would watch online like 360Jeezy and Slider Cuts as like ASMR," she laughed. "I started reaching out to barbers asking to shadow them. Eventually, I started an apprenticeship wit Mark Maciver at Slider Cuts. He promoted me to junior barber that day. I was able to learn quickly from the barbers around me and it all fell into place."

How does Shannon manage her two very intense disciplines? "It’s difficult to maintain braiding and cutting to a high standard. But my clients keep me creative because they'll ask for new stuff and I just embrace that!

What differences are there when it comes to pricing and timing her appointments compared to when she’s just cutting? "Consultation paired with personal judgement is essential. I tailor pricing to client's hair type, the intricacy, and how much time it takes for me to execute. Everyone's head shape is different; everyone's surface of their hair changes. It's all based off what kind of idea they have and on how much hair they have out. E.g., whether it'd be half head, full head braids, a haircut, or a shape up. For example, braids normally range from half an hour to two hours. Jumbo braids take less time, box braids are longer."

Does Fresha booking software help Shannon spin many plates? "I can manage my time and see my schedule. Analytics and previous appointments help me judge how much time I should allocate - you learn your own stats along the way. The user interface is super easy to understand, so it's not a massive task to tailor your day and find that happy balance between what your clients want and what you can achieve. You have total control and that's important when managing super quick barber cuts and bigger jobs like braiding."

What products does Shannon use? "Always have a styling gel and/or wax. A styling and setting mousse with hair oils and heat protecting sprays.

"Tools-wise, I have my blow dryer, combs of various widths - the more sizes you have, the more prepped you are for different texture types and thickness. I break my combs to different lengths - people think I need new ones, but it's a strategic move! They're exactly how I need them to be! Makes my life easier."

What brands does Shannon use for styling and haircare when working with tighter, textured hair? "I'm consciously looking for healthier options and working with new brands, even making my own products further down the line.

"Mainly, I use Creme of Nature, whose products are all-natural, featuring great scalp health enhancers, cleansing, and moisturizing products for braids and the cuts I do on the daily. Aloe vera, pure honey, argon oil, Jamaican black caster oil - great ingredients for textured hair. They're guilt-free, and the client's hair is made healthier and healthier every time they visit."

"I really believe in PLANTMADE, which is Black woman-owned, vegan, all-natural hair product range. Absolutely amazing products, and I recommend them to anyone.”

Advice for others wanting to turn braiding into a career? "A great starting point is YouTube. Then TikTok and Instagram - get your algorithm sorted! People share so much advice on there. Once you've built that interest and basic learning, you have to practice on real people.

“You also need determination – especially as a woman in a male-dominated industry. With braiding, everyone trusts me. When I started barbering, nobody trusted me straight off the bat. But I believed in myself. I knew I would be the best eventually. So have those solid goals for yourself and be determined. Until you believe in yourself, no one else will." Shannon is @shanstyling on Instagram.

“IT’S DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN BRAIDING AND CUTTING TO A HIGH STANDARD. BUT MY CLIENTS KEEP ME CREATIVE BECAUSE THEY'LL ASK FOR NEW STUFF AND I JUST EMBRACE THAT!”

CHOOSE YOUR

SELECTING THE RIGHT PAIR OF SCISSORS TO INVEST IN CAN BE A TRICKY AND OVERWHELMING TASK. WHICH SCISSORS WORK BEST ON WHICH HAIR TEXTURES? WHAT DOES YOUR CUTTING STYLE LOOK LIKE? WHAT RESULTS ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? LUCKILY, JOSEPH GOSS OF RUM BARBER IS HERE WITH A FEW GUIDING QUESTIONS THAT CAN HELP YOU FIND THE RIGHT SCISSOR FOR THE JOB.

YASAKA 7"

Prices from £119.00

OHKA JEWEL BLACK 30 TOOTH THINNER

Prices from £230.00

A 6 inch scissor will likely suit you better, as the longer blade lets you remove more hair. A thinning scissor would also be good for scissor-over-comb, allowing you to blend away any scissor or clipper marks in your haircut. Thinning scissors are usually between 30-40 teeth with straight blades and remove between 25%-35% of the hair between the blade.

DO YOU DO A LOT OF SCISSOROVER- COMB AND

through your shape much neater.

WINGS SILVER

Prices from £345.00

CLASSIC BARBER TECHNIQUES?

This is a semi convex scissor that provides a smoother cut when aiming to retain shape on curly hair as overtexturising can lead to frizzy, flyaways.

VERSATILITY =

WAHL FUTURE MAKER AND OWNER OF DAMIANO HAIR, MICHAEL (MIC) DAMIANO IS WELL KNOWN FOR HIS SKILL IN WORKING WITH ALL HAIR TEXTURES AND CREATING OTHER WORLDLY COLLECTIONS. MIC TOLD US HOW BEING SKILLED IN MANY HAIR TEXTURES HAS KEPT HIM INSPIRED AND ENDLESSLY CREATING.

Mic’s day-to-day consists of running his salon, Damiano Hair on Bedford High Street, educating at Bedford college, and being part the global creative team for Wahl Professional. “On top of that, being a mega cool dad to my daughter and son,” Mic added.

In the last year, Mic has been part of the Wahl Professional Global Future Makers campaign, creating a collection and educational material for barbers all around the world. Mic said: “It’s an absolute honour to be a part of such honourable, prestigious movement, being a Future Maker for the world’s leading clipper company. It is like wearing a badge of honour, being a part of the chosen elite industry leaders around the world?

I mean surely that’s hitting top of your career!? What’s getting better than that.

“I’ve learned so much from the other educators around the world and using it to develop my own skills, so I’m very grateful for that. I also gave my input of what I can bring to the table with my skillset, what did I gain? A family! A WAHL global family that will be in my heart forever.”

Mic’s first experiences cutting hair were with coily and Afro textured hair when he first started barbering, so it’s no wonder he is so skilled working with it today. He explained: “I grew up with a lot of friends with textured hair, so I had no choice but to cut their hair! So, I learned how to work with textured hair before I could cut any other types of hair! For me it just felt natural part of barbering that I currently enjoy.”

A common belief is that there is more education surrounding textured hair in North America than there is here in the UK, I asked if Mic had felt like this. He said: “No, actually! Especially at Wahl Professional, which has amazing and skilful educators on both sides of the pond. Having had the opportunity to work in both countries, I can see the incredibly high standards that barbers are working to, in all hair textures. And being part of global projects like the Future Makers is so important because it allows us to combine our knowledge and create resources for barbers all around the world.

“My concern at the moment, however, is that I believe a lot of colleges are lacking in information on working with textured hair, meaning students are not getting the access to that education they need, and entering the barbering industry without knowing how to work with Afro hair. So, this is something I am currently focusing on at Bedford College, and hopefully more around the UK, ensuring everyone has access to education on ALL hair textures.”

When creating his collections, Mic tends to love to show off his skills working with various textures and hair types. We’re not calling him a show off exactly… but you can tell he knows what he is doing. He explained: “When you work with a variety of hair textures in a collection, it really allows you to show off your fading/ design work, taking your shaping and sculpting to its full potential, especially when you work with Afro hair. It complements your work and helps you stand out, while you get that full satisfaction as a barber knowing that your skills are versatile.”

Photography // Two-D Photography & Film

Due to Mic’s incredible skill, he has been granted opportunities some of us can only dream of, such as working with The Jacksons before their concert. Mic said: “Having the privilege to work with a few celebrity clients, getting the chance to work with The Jacksons was a very honourable and surreal experience, especially when halfway through the haircut, they said ‘Oh man, Michael would of loved you’. I had to stop for a second and think to myself, you’re talking about Michael Fu@*i^g Jackson! Wow! Goosebumps!

“Being a barber can bring you amazing opportunities, what other job can you offer your services to a celebrity? Not many… but you’ve got to keep calm and be a professional. You can’t show nerves or excitement, as that could show lack of confidence

BABYLISS PRO FALCO HAIRDRYER

This revolutionary hairdryer launches in September 2023. Crafted with insights from top stylists, it boasts quiet performance and innovation. With precision styling tools, intelligent heat control, a reimagined design for comfort, and enhanced durability, it's a game-changer for stylists seeking impeccable results. babyliss.com

UBERLISS FRIZZ ELIXIR

Uberliss continues to build its product portfolio in the UK with the launch of Uberliss Frizz Elixir. Providing triple protection against frizz, humidity and thermal damage, this versatile spray helps to control static while smoothing and softening the hair cuticles.

£36.00 // uberliss.com

GAMMA+ WIRELESS PRODIGY SHAVER

The most powerful and fastest shaver in its class with a turbocharged motor that runs at 9,000 strokes per minute for more powerful shaving and less drag, while also giving the closest shave without irritation.

£125.69 // gammaplus.co.uk

S CURL LITE CURL & WAVE JEL ACTIVATOR

or professionalism. Just soak up the experience. It’s not about just getting a picture for your Instagram.”

Wahl Professional tools, like the ambassador Mic, are known for their versatility and ability to excel in any hair type or texture. Mic said: “At Wahl Professional, we have a wide range of tools to make your job easier working with any and all hair types. When my customers are sitting in my chair and see all my collection lined up in my shop, I often get asked ‘do you need and use all those clippers?’ And my answer is always ‘oh yes!’ Different clippers and trimmers for different hair types! I currently can’t keep my hands off the new Gold Magic Clip edition, with its new Diamond-like Carbon blade. It just cuts so much smoother and cooler, I highly recommend them.”

Use daily to maintain and condition your curly hair style. Anti Frizz formula. Paraben Free Great for curls, waves, and natural hair. Vitamin-enriched,

“AT WAHL PROFESSIONAL, WE HAVE A WIDE RANGE OF TOOLS TO MAKE YOUR JOB EASIER WORKING WITH ANY AND ALL HAIR TYPES.”

‘EY UP, as we say in Barnsley! Are you all ready for the business end of the year? I always think when the kids go back to school, winter is around the corner, and the dark nights approach… But, it’s also awards season and the most profitable time of the year, so embrace it, love it, and step into this next period with positive vibes and full of hope and desire.

I’m really excited to be launching my new podcast this month The Final Cut , co-hosted by EVO Co-Founder David Foster and CEO of The Fellowship of British Hairdressing, Barry Stephens. It’s really different to what I’ve done before; we feature guests who have a story – we want to stir the pot for discussions. Colour brands, heads of organisations, barbers, hairdressers, and CEOs. Season 1 features Andrew Barton, Hayden Cassidy, Fellowship news and much more. Hope you love it has

SOME PEOPLE TALK ABOUT YOU BECAUSE THEY’VE LOST THE PRIVILEGE TO TALK TO YOU. SHAW SAYS

much as we do. If you want to be on the Final Cut please let us know why and what’s your story. Good luck, suckers.

BBOTY PROJECT: MEN

DIARY

11TH SEPTEMBER: PROJECT: MEN COLOUR DAY – WITH PAUL DENNISON PRO

6TH NOVEMBER: PROJECT GRAND FINALE

Project: Men had a great day out with Charlie Gray recently. The team travelled to Bolton in Lancashire to spend the day with Charles Gray. The morning consisted of a trend report and brand building digital lectures and a visual demonstration of an on-trend men's haircut from myself. Followed by a handson cutting workshop in the afternoon, finishing off with a small review at the end of the day.

PRODUCT DROP

WAHL HIGH VISIBILIY TRIMMER

wahl.co.uk

MANIFESTO LONDON

Manifesto is the epitome of London cool. Located in the arches of the Coal Drops Yard, the Manifesto barbers are experts at their craft, with technical skills to the T. If you want to get more proficient at longer cutting and styles, check these guys out.

After nearly a year of being Wahl Barber of the Year, Charlie Baker will be coming aboard the Wahl Pro team as a more permanent fixture in the team. Fresh from his announcement, Kyle Rowland is awaiting his first duties post-coronation as the next Wahl Barber of the Year.

4TH DECEMBER: FELLOWSHIP LUNCHEON AND HAIR AWARDS 2023

DROPPIN' LIKE IT'S HOT

“I have become a big fan of whipping around on electric scooters while on holiday this summer.”

ANNOUNCEMENT! NEW ROLE FOR ALAN BEAK

Congratulations WAHL UK Creative Director, Alan Beak for his new role as Co-Lead of Project Men with me for 2024! Alan said: “To be even thought of to join the holy grail of the hair industry is absolutely massive and such a monumental opportunity so I can’t thank Simon and all at Wahl Pro enough. My role with Wahl itself as Creative Lead is locked in and ain’t going anywhere soon!”

Louis Vuitton Everyday LV Embroidered Mesh Cap

BUSINESS BARBERSHOP

IT'S BACK TO SCHOOL TIME, PEOPLE. CREATING BANGING HAIRCUTS DAY-AFTER-DAY IS IMPORTANT, BUT HAVING A WELL-OILED AND STABLE BUSINESS IS EQUALLY VITAL. SO, GET YOUR PENS AND PAPER AT THE READY FOR SOME ESSENTIAL BUSINESS AND FINANCE ADVICE FROM SOME OF THE BEST IN THE BIZ.

TIMELESS LUXURY:

150 YEARS OF MORGAN’S POMADE

THE YEAR WAS 1873. IN LONDON, HISTORY WAS IN THE MAKING, AND A LEGACY HAD BEGUN. 150 YEARS LATER, MORGAN’S POMADE HAS GONE FROM BEING THE TOP HAIR PRODUCT FOR THE MODERN VICTORIAN HAIRDRESSER, TO THE NUMBER-ONE CHOICE FOR MODERN BARBERS ACROSS THE UK AND GLOBALLY.

A company with a rich heritage, today, Morgan’s Pomade offers a wide range of sustainable and luxurious products, ideal for the modern barbershop setting. The brand has evolved a lot over the last century-and-a-half, but it has always held quality, luxury, and attention to fashion at the forefront of the business. Among many, many awards, this year, Morgan’s Pomade received the UK Health and Beauty Award for the Most Historic Hair Pomade Production Brand. So, before we look forward, let’s look back at the history of this legendary brand.

1873

Morgan’s first product to be formulated and produced was the ‘Marie Antoinette Eucalyptus Egg Julep Shampoo’, followed shortly thereafter by Morgan’s Pomade. Even in the 1870s, an era without social media and digital advertising, news travelled fast with Morgan’s innovative formulations. In no time, fashion and styleconscious men were discovering the wonders of Morgan’s Pomade.

By the turn of the century, Morgan’s Pomade was sold in the finest gentleman’s hairdressers in London’s West End, making it a must-have addition to one's routine. Word even began to spread across the channel and Morgan’s was rapidly overtaking the continent, sitting on the shelves at the most exclusive Parisian hairdressers.

1914

As the First World War took the world by storm, Morgan’s faced many challenges in

terms of production and sourcing raw materials to England, but in true British spirit, they kept calm and carried on. On the boats of the British Army, Morgan’s Pomades made their way to the sub-continent, and soon India became one of their largest export markets. Many jars of Morgan’s Pomade also found their way across the Atlantic, breaking into America and fitting in perfectly with the classic age of Hollywood – helping film stars upkeep their immaculately slick pompadours. 

1935

By this time, the headquarters of Morgan’s looked a lot different to its humble beginnings, but the methods and formulations were mostly unchanged. Again, WWII caused many challenges and setbacks for the brand, but despite all this, Morgan’s remained steadfast, holding as strong and unwavering as its illustrious products. As Morgan’s reputation and good name expanded globally, the products could be found in almost any corner of the globe, with each bottle tracing back to its origin in the United Kingdom.

2023

Today, Morgan’s Pomade is distributed to over 50 export markets worldwide. Having celebrated the sale of its one-billionth jar of pomade, the continued success speaks for itself. Don’t be fooled by the name, Morgan’s offers much more than just pomade and shampoo. Today, Morgan’s offers eight variations of pomades for all styles and hair types. They also offer an extensive beard grooming line, styling line, shaving line, skincare line, tonics and colognes and conditioners, many of which are Vegan, catering for both the modern stylist and their clientele. Morgan’s merchandise is also proudly worn by many barbers worldwide. Morgan’s range is not only extensive, but they have ensured that the quality has not wavered since day one. Morgan’s name has become known for its rich British heritage and commitment to excellence.

Embracing the ethos of sustainability, Morgan’s has always been an environmentally conscious company. No matter how far the brand has expanded and how much it has grown, it has kept its manufacturing based in the UK. Meaning that UK-based barbers can be at peace knowing Morgan’s products have a much lesser carbon footprint than many competitors with outsourced manufacturing. Not to mention, that it is ethically

produced, giving back to the local economy.

While a lot is to be said about the brand based on its heritage and history, it has been Morgan’s forward thinking that has brought it into the 21st century with great success. Whether it was 1873, 1920, 1990 or 2023, Morgan’s have always kept a finger on the pulse of fashion and trends, crafting their products to suit the needs of the modern man. Whether you are tuning into a classic Hollywood film from the ‘50s or

a self-indulgent evening of modern reality TV, chances are, you’re looking at a hairstyle brought to you by Morgan’s Pomade. In fact, just recently, Morgan’s Pomade was a proud sponsor at the National Reality TV Awards.

Evolution is the name of the game for Morgan's Pomade. Evolving their innovative products and formulations to suit the trends, as well as evolving with the times to suit the needs and demands of barbers and their clients. One example of this is Morgan’s recent expansion into skincare. These days, self-care and skincare ranks much higher of importance to the average man. With the age of social media, more consumers are educating themselves on how to properly care for their skin and the must-have products to integrate into their routine. But there is no one in a man’s dayto-day life more qualified to get a product in his hands and into his daily routine than his barber. So, it is only natural for barbershops to carry more than just a pomade and shaving cream on their retail shelves. Now is the time to bring in the serums, moisturisers, and colognes that their clients can easily add to their regime while getting tips and suggestions from their trusted barber. Not to mention, from their favourite luxury brand – Morgan’s Pomade.

Whether it has been at exhibitions in India in the 20th century, or at Salon International in 2023, on the big screen during the golden age of cinema, or on the flatscreen on the finale of Love Island, on the shelves of the most fashionable gentlemen’s hairdressers of London’s West End, or in the hands of the top barbers including one of their professional, official Ambassadors, Kevin Vorley. Morgan’s Pomade has always been top choice, with its luxurious fragrance, timeless style, and innovative formulas. •

YOUR BRAND HAIR PRODUCTS

Your Brand Hair Products provides progressive barbershops and salons the opportunity to offer clients their own exclusive range of high quality, eco-friendly, and innovative private label grooming products for men and women. Dennis said: “Sometimes barbers can underestimate the sales power they have and the influence they have on their clients. Recommending your own products to your own clients keeps them coming back to your shop or shopping for the haircare they desire exclusively on your online shop. If you present your range to them in the chair, it’s a natural step for them to then actually purchase the products you use.”

Dennis continued: “People can see and associate with a brand the minute they see your name above the door. Don’t let that consumer’s journey end there! Presenting products with your branding and your aesthetic only strengthens your brand identity, pitching your shop as a 360-service, where the cut, styling, advice, and products are provided all in one place.”

The prices are significantly below major brand products, which offer very healthy profit margins for the barbershop business in the expanding haircare retail market. “Furthermore, if you add self-branded products into your brick and mortar

premises as well as online, you’re constantly promoting yourself, your brand, and the services you provide in your shop. It’s effortless marketing and a huge bonus that clients can utilise again and again – even out of the chair!”

How can Your Brand Hair Products ensure quality? Sure, putting your branding on a product is an exciting next step, but what really matters is the product inside the bottle. Dennis shared some insight: “Our entire range is developed to compete with industry titan brands. We strive for quality and follow industry and EU compliance laws to a T so that the barber is 100% certain that these products not only perform well, but build a premium service that you can rely on.”

Dennis told us about one of his most highprofile clients: “Ben Huthwaite is a global men’s grooming specialist and award-winning barber, known for his refined barbering and styling skills. He has been our client for around five years. He’s worked with one of the biggest barbering product companies in the world, but opted to stock our products… if that isn’t a sign of quality, I don’t know what is!” Find Your Brand Hair Products on Instagram @yourbrandhairproducts

WE SPOKE TO FOUNDER OF YOUR BRAND HAIR PRODUCTS, DENNIS BELL, TO FIND OUT WHY PRODUCING, BRANDING, AND UPSELLING RETAIL IN YOUR SHOP CAN BUILD CLIENT LOYALTY AND BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE.

MR MENTOR

BARBER AND MR. BARBERS FRANCHISE OWNER, MARK LOVELL IS PASSIONATE ABOUT ENCOURAGING MENTORSHIP WITHIN THE BARBERSHOP. HE ATTRIBUTES THE SUCCESS HE HAS HAD WITH THE COMPANY TO THE MENTORING HE RECEIVED AT MR. BARBERS EARLY IN HIS CAREER. MARK SHARES WHY MENTORING IS SO CRITICAL TO THE MR. BARBERS ETHOS, AND WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A GOOD MENTOR.

THE YOUR BRAND HAIR PRODUCTS WAY

1 ORDER SAMPLES

Order samples of any products you wish to trial and evaluate.

2

CHOOSE PRODUCTS

Choose your product range and packaging. Place your order via email at sales@yourbrandhairproducts. com and send your logo/design requirements.

3 DESIGN LABELS

Following payment of your invoice, the design team will get to work on your custom labels, and provide images of your branding for your approval.

4 APPROVE FINAL PRODUCTS & LABELS

After you approve your labels, your order will go into production.

5 PRODUCT DELIVERY

Sit back, relax, and wait for your delivery.

Mark first had his experience in the barbershop while he was in school as a Saturday boy. But at 16, he left school and joined the military, going into the Marines and then into private security, where he travelled around Africa.

But after several years, Mark wanted to find a more stable life in the UK and made his way back to a career in barbering. “I knew Karl Foster, the Director of Mr. Barbers, and my girlfriend was a barber at Mr. Barbers, so it was an easy choice. There, I received a lot of mentoring, started cutting, and soon enough, I became a franchise owner, and now own multiple Mr. Barber shops.

Mark is a big advocate for mentoring in the barbershop and has helped to build his barbershop teams and lead them to success. Mark said: “I believe mentorship is the only way, especially in barbering. It can be a relatively transient industry, with barbers coming and going constantly. But with mentoring, you can bring barbers in, spend time getting to know them and their goals, and help them reach them. This will ultimately lead to a more loyal team, and a more sustainable and stable business. I have found that the more time and effort you put into someone, the longer they are going to stick with you.”

Mark is a great example of the benefits of mentoring himself, starting as a barber, he gained

the mentoring he needed which helped him reach his goals in his business ventures, and now he is a valuable partner in the Mr. Barbers Franchise.

Mark said: “This is the beauty of Mr. Barbers. Self-employed barbers have the opportunity to grow beyond being a barber. Most barbers will reach a point in a career where they will want to do more than just cut hair. But instead of stunting that growth, Mr. Barbers encourages progression. In fact, my first-ever apprentice now owns two other shops with me, and another barber who was my second apprentice has also bought a part of a Mr. Barbers shop.”

What Makes a Mentor?:

1 Be mindful when building your team – look for good qualities over talent and skill. Remember, you can teach someone how to cut, you can’t teach them to be a good person.

2 Be open-minded. It’s okay to have your own leadership style, but understand everyone takes different approaches and standards.

3 Be a guiding star, not a shining star. If you make yourself the most valuable asset in your barbershop, you are stunting the growth of your team. Take a step back and dedicate time to fostering your team, allowing them to shine. Follow @the.lovell.project and @mrbarbers

THINK UNIQUE

COMING UP ON ITS 27TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY, BARBERS UNIT 5 IS AN INSTITUTION ON THE ISLE OF MAN, A PILLAR OF THE ISLAND COMMUNITY. WE SPOKE TO BOBBIE HOWARD, THE DIRECTOR OF BU5, ABOUT HOW THE SHOP ENDORSES INDIVIDUALITY, SUPPORTS THE COMMUNITY, AND INSPIRES FUN – ESPECIALLY WITH THEIR BESPOKE REM CHAIRS.

Barbers Unit 5 was first founded in 1996 by Linda Rogers, who had the goal of opening a barbershop, in order to support the community with a professional barbershop that was both competitive and unflinching on barbering standards. After many years, the barbershop was taken over by her daughter, until Bobbie came in.

Bobbie explained: “After Covid, we needed to make some changes so that the shop would continue to benefit the community, while also keeping up with the current barbering climate, keeping the business sustainable. So, we all worked very hard to find a nice point between making the right sort of business that supports the staff and the customers first, without any financial greed, individual ego or shouting “we are the best!”, because that is not who we are.”

We asked the BU5 team to tell us three words to describe working at BU5. they said: “Positive, Awesome and Bloody Busy”.

One of the ways the BU5 team has worked to create a welcoming and inclusive environment is through the barbershop’s interior. Bobbie explained: “The Isle of Man is a very diverse and international island, so we of course have a very diverse clientele. That’s why the amazing Barbers at BU5 have input into the design choices I implement and this adds to the positive working environment which is a reflection on them and the island’s community.”

Even the logo at BU5 represents diversity and inclusivity. Bobbie explained: “BU5 logo was designed by Jane Howard nine years ago. We had the help of a local graffiti and tattoo artist Jimmy

Duggan, who worked with Jane to create a retro colourful logo that symbolised the foundations the business was built on by Linda Rogers, which are that a barbershop should always be welcome to everyone.” The next step was finding the right chairs. Bobbie said: “It just didn’t make sense for us to have run-of-the-mill barber chairs. I travelled to barbershops all over England looking for inspiration, and I couldn’t find anything that looked like the vision I had in my head. I remembered that the first chairs BU5 ever had in the shop were from REM, as Linda was close to the company’s previous director. So, as a legacy to Linda, I got in touch with REM.”

For an investment as big as barber chairs, Bobbie wanted to ensure he was getting exactly what he’d imagined, so he took a trip to the REM HQ. He said: “This is one of the best customer service

experiences I have had. I would recommend a visit to REM HQ to all barbers looking for unique individual barber chairs. It was a chance for me to understand the parameters and processes of designing the chairs. REM was so receptive to my ideas and listened and designed the chairs exactly how I had envisioned, right down to the colour of the stitching and additional piping. You can tell how passionate and enthusiastic they are about what they do, and the results were just amazing.”

It was a big day when the chairs arrived at BU5. “We are on a one-way street, so when a 40-foot wagon turns up at 7 in the morning, you’ve got the busy morning rush hour to deal with! So, I was extremely thankful to the five bearded gentleman who gave up their mornings to help dodge and direct traffic, unpack the chairs and bring them in as fast as possible. Over the following weeks, it was great to hear the positive feedback, with even more new clients coming in, because they wanted to check out the new chairs and the shop!”

Bobbie designed four separate brightly coloured chairs, perfectly matching the shop’s logo in red, yellow, lime green and blue. Each chair even has the shop’s iconic logo embroidered onto it as well. “This way, our logo is on every chair to remind people that everyone is welcome, and everyone should be comfortable in our shop. Having four different coloured chairs is great because everyone has their favourite colour. We are looking at getting a new chair for our newest trainee barber (A SLIPKNOT FAN) – we just need to figure out what colour to go for, I’m thinking PURPLE”.

Photography // John at Isle Photo, Isle of Man

SLIDERCUTS WAY

EAST LONDON-BASED MARK MACIVER IS AN AWARD-WINNING BARBER OF 20 YEARS WITH A CLIENT LIST THAT INCLUDES DIZZEE RASCAL, STORMZY, AND ANTHONY JOSHUA. HE’S OWNER OF SLIDERCUTS STUDIOS AND TOLD US WHY FRESHA MAKES HIS LIFE EASIER AS A BARBER AND BUSINESS OWNER.

There are many elements that come together to make a successful barbershop, from the business behind-the-scenes to the client services.

Fresha offers comprehensive appointment scheduling, payment processing, point of sale (POS) systems for in the shop with ease and reliability – all in one place. Having a single platform that manages these elements with ease and reliability was why Mark signed up for the innovative software. He told us: "I've been using Fresha since the start of this year. I signed up because it's a reliable software that works across the shop and in tandem with my 11 barbers’ and hairstylists’ plans. This keeps things efficient and avoids over promising and under delivering on our services.

"Secondly, I love that their office and software team are London-based, meaning that customer service is available whenever I need. I can also visit in person and raise issues, get advice on how to fix them, and learn new things about the software."

What about the software itself? "I like that the client data capture and management are all in one place for re-bookings and return visits.

"It's also super easy to book. Any way I can make the client journey easier is a big yes from me. The user interface is clear, engaging, and easy to understand. Ultimately, a booking software and payment management platform has to be productive for us on the backend, but it is important that it works well for the client on the front end, too."

“WITH FRESHA, BARBERS CAN MANAGE THEIR TIME, WHICH MEANS I DON’T HAVE TO ASK THEM ABOUT THEIR SCHEDULES OR PESTER THEM DURING THEIR DAY. IT EASES THEIR MINDS AND GIVES ME LESS WORK TO DO.”

Mark told us that the number of clients booking online has skyrocketed since launching their Fresha digital booking and payment software. "The number of bookings themselves has increased slightly. It's cool, though, that a lot of those bookings aren't necessarily brand-new clients – the platform motivates current clients or previous visitors to book ahead of time due to the ease of use. This impacts our schedules positively, meaning we can see every person on the screen and have an idea about how our day is going to be, ahead of time.

"In the past, we’ve had customers complain about how difficult it was to book. Fresha is so easy to use that anyone can book in.”

Interestingly, Mark doesn’t use Fresha to boost his clientele, more to retain the ones he has. “We’ve never had an issue with bringing clients in, we just needed a way to ensure that the clients we did and do still have could access our services easily and have a better experience overall. Knowing that they have a better time gives me peace of mind.”

In terms of his relationship with the team: “Barbers can manage their time, which means I don’t have to ask them about their schedules or pester them during their day. It eases their minds and gives me less work to do.”

We delved more into how Mark categorises his clients and prices the services. There are so many variables to consider when trying to characterise services, then the potential various titles – often

based on industry terms – can be overwhelming for the client. They just don’t know what the jargon means. Mark told us that simplifying the service menu is key to engaging the clients. “We make categories for children, then teenagers and college students. Different age groups will have the same sized heads, so it’s easier to judge price and offer discounts deals for them. Then we just have adults – 18+. Then different services within that – haircut, haircut and beard, total restyle, and we have an ‘extra time’ option. This gives us freedom to work within flexible time limits. Also, we know the work we need to do when the client comes in, so there’s no need to fill the menu with loads of information. That’s it – super basic.”

No barbershop owner wants to alienate their client base because of price point. Having a cycle of junior barbers and senior barbers is a good way to fluctuate prices for the clients and let them choose how much they’re paying for the

same cut, depending on the experience of their barber. Mark offered: “We’ve always had junior barbers graduating to senior barber positions, which is great. But eventually, you’ll have a room full of senior barbers and the prices will reflect that. A solution to avoid that is expanding space and adding more chairs. Right now, I plan on boosting about four or five more chairs to keep that cycle going. That’s how I can cater to a wide spectrum of people financially.”

Ultimately, as a business owner, Mark reckons you need to tell your clients what they want… they don’t want to have to search to find the service they’re looking for. “It’s like being in a food shop, you’ve gone to a cookbook to ask what ingredients you need to make the dish. It’s just like that – keep the menu simple with as little ingredients as possible and let your professionals execute the nuances and specifics when the clients are sat in your chair.”

Catch Mark and his team @slidercuts on Instagram.

“BARBERS CAN MANAGE THEIR TIME, WHICH MEANS I DON’T HAVE TO ASK THEM ABOUT THEIR SCHEDULES OR PESTER THEM DURING THEIR DAY. IT EASES THEIR MINDS AND GIVES ME LESS WORK TO DO.”

Unlimited team members

Invite your entire team to join your account and stay up-to-date with their schedules

Unlimited locations

Manage multiple venues from one main account with no limitations

Unlimited clients

Track client history, take notes and keep them engaged with free integrated email notifications

Unlimited appointment bookings

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Unlimited product inventory

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BROTHERS LEIGH AND DARRAN GOULD HAVE BEEN CUTTING HAIR FOR MORE THAN 25 YEARS, AND IN THAT TIME, THEY HAVE GROWN FROM WORKING IN THEIR EIGHT-CHAIR BARBERSHOP IN KING’S LYNN TO NOW OWNING THE UK’S LARGEST BARBERING BRAND, WITH 40 BARBERSHOPS PRIMARILY IN TESCOS ACROSS THE UK.

GOOD AS GOULD

Leigh and Darran opened their first shop in King’s Lynn back in 2013, after being taught the skill of barbering by their father, Marcus. In 2015, their second shop opened in Downham Market. But the real kicker that got the ball rolling was when Gould partnered with Tesco and opened their first barbershop in Harwick. From there, Gould has been fast expanding, having opened 35 more shops across the UK in the last seven years.

We asked Darran what it was that drew them to partner with Tesco stores. Darran said: “We had begun to realise that unfortunately, town centres within the UK were dying. For various reasons, major retailers began moving out of town centres and onto retail parks. We started to look at various opportunities for Gould Barbers to expand out of town centres. A shop became available within our local Tesco, and we immediately reacted and secured the lease, as we knew Tesco being the largest retailer in the UK, has immense footfall. We felt this could potentially be incredible for our business.”

And so far, the results have been incredible. Darran explained: “In terms of footfall, an average Tesco has around 40k customers per week. This is unrivalled, giving us an abundance of potential customers.”

Consistency is another huge benefit for the location. “A high proportion of Tesco are outside town centres and often surrounded by retail parks/ industrial estates. Lots of people work in these areas therefore having barbershops in these areas is perfect for the customer, due to not having to travel into town.”

Another huge benefit that is not to be overlooked: free parking. “Most town centres charge anything upwards of £2 to park. This is not the case in our locations due to parking being free.”

Since the beginning of the relationship between Gould and Tesco, the partnership has evolved and flourished. Darran explained: “Tesco has installed confidence in us and treats us in the same light as the other partners. Their vision is in line with us and as we evolve together, we are hitting milestones.

Within the next six months, we will have 50 locations nationwide. Four years ago, if someone had said we will have 50 locations, we would have laughed.

“Now due to the opportunity Tesco has given us and the confidence they have installed, we are totally focused on the next milestones. 100 locations are our next big target, then 250 within the next five years. We are over the moon how our partnership is evolving.”

One element that has evolved for Gould and Tesco is that Tesco customers can now redeem their Clubcard points in the barbershop. Darran explained: “Our customers can now benefit by redeeming their points for vouchers to spend in Gould Barbers. Therefore a £16 haircut costs £8 in Tesco vouchers. This is truly incredible when you think closely. It really means that if a Tesco customer uses their vouchers every time for a haircut, the haircut actually never costs anything!”

Darran continued to say that Gould has expanded, and the word has gotten out there more and more, recruitment has been much easier. He said: “When we first started on this journey, I would say 50% of barbers declined. They couldn’t understand the concept of a barbershop in Tesco.

“People talk and the more barbers that joined and explained to their friends how incredible the footfall is and the opportunities that are arising, the stigma has got diluted.”

There’s a lot more good to come from Gould. They are also now launching a full-blown apprenticeship scheme. Darran explained: “This is going to be incredible and, in my opinion, transform our business to a new level. We are incredibly passionate about developing new barbers. The youngsters we take have so many more opportunities to get models. This as we know speeds up their training and gets them thriving on the floor faster.”

Become the Best!

At Gould Barbers we’re on a mission, to become the UK’s Best Barbering Brand.

Every one of our over 200 Barbers is chosen on quality and their customer service attributes. Together we’re forming the UK’s Largest Family Barbershop. We offer barbershops with high footfall paired with unique training & career development opportunities.

As we enter a new phase of growth we would love to welcome you to our Family Barbershop.

Darran & Leigh Gould

COMING INTO

FOCUS

THE MISSION AT MALE FOCUS IN

A BARBER CHAIR NEEDS TO RECLINE THE CLIENT EFFORTLESSLY WITH SMOOTH LEVER ADJUSTMENT - ESPECIALLY DURING SHAVING SERVICES WHEN YOU NEED BLADE CONTROL AROUND THE HAIRLINE AND BEARD. TAKARA BELMONT COVER ALL OF THIS.”

EXETER IS TO EVOLVE

THE BARBERING EXPERIENCE BY CREATING A MORE INDULGENT, EMPOWERING BUSINESS AND DELIVERING EXCEPTIONAL SERVICES THAT ACHIEVE THE BEST RESULTS FOR CLIENTS, COMPANY DIRECTOR JAMES BEAUMONT SHARES HIS VISION WITH BARBER EVO.

Throughout his 16 years in the industry, James Beaumont has witnessed a vast amount of change and growth in the men’s fashion and grooming market. Yet it was during his time spent travelling the world as educator and Men’s Hair Global Ambassador for Keune Haircosmetics that the idea and vision for Male Focus came to him.

James explained: “My father Richard Beaumont was a hairdresser, running various salons for over 50 years. I will always remember him telling me that in his early days of hairdressing, men waiting for their wives wouldn’t even want to be seen walking into a salon! I thought this was crazy. Richard grew an incredible reputation in Devon, and his precise way of cutting hair and applying products to create blow-dry masterpieces always inspired me. I found it quite hypnotising. It's almost like a chef applying

small titbits to deliver the finished masterpiece.

“In the past, I felt barbering lacked in product knowledge, but nowadays, men enjoy being more experimental with their looks, making the effort to finish their styles using a combination of products.”

So, throughout his hairdressing career, James witnessed an increase in men taking the brave step into salons for a haircut – especially those with longer styles.

James said: “They especially enjoyed the shampoo experience, the barista coffee, and the calm ambient music that left them feeling fresh and relaxed.

“Sam Thorpe, our salon manager, and I soon noticed our male clientele percentage increasing more and more until it was nearly equal to our female clients. We put this down to not only offering a relaxing salon experience but also because our

male guests appreciated the skill in scissor work, along with design, control and finish. Clients enjoyed the experience of watching the design unfold.”

Building on this experience and their understanding of what male clients were really looking for, James and Sam opened Male Focus Salon in 2022 and they’ve never looked back. By creating a bespoke ‘salon’ experience for men, Male Focus gave men their own space while still maintaining a high quality offering for female clients at their Longbrook Salon.

As James explains, this ‘best of both worlds’ outcome has proved highly effective for clients and their team. “At Male Focus, most of the team have a background in hairdressing and barbering, so we specialise in men’s haircutting services for all lengths of hair, as well as beard services, perming and straightening services. We also offer colouring services using Keune Haircosmetics including highlighting, full head colouring, bleaching, and toning; we even offer a 10-minute grey blending service from the 1922 By JM Keune product range, so we work hard to meet every client’s needs.”

As part of the ethos at Male Focus, James also explains why it was imperative to offer more services than the average barbershop. “The more services you offer, the more you open your door to a plethora of clients. Hair colouring, for instance, is incredibly popular in the hairdressing industry and it’s the backbone of financial incomes for many salon businesses. Barbershops don’t always take advantage of this trend but men’s colouring is definitely growing

and we strive to project this into our services and consultations.”

James goes on to say that when all said a done, the main goal at Male Focus is to ensure all clients feel: “appreciated and indulged, revitalised, and inspired.” So, what does James mean by inspired? “When we enter a high-end fashion store it’s quite inspiring and the aesthetic, ambience and service should be second to none. We strive to achieve this too, but also by offering much more. At Male Focus, clients will feel the energy of the stylist. Our stylists are proud and creative, and you can sense their passion. All of the team want to give clients their absolute best, as each client is unique.”

When it comes to interior ambience, James felt he needed to strike the perfect balance between maintaining the luxury salon atmosphere that his clients loved, while creating a more masculine atmosphere at Male Focus. “We wanted to create an interior design with masculine touches balanced perfectly with elegance to bring a modern, timeless style to the interior design.

“I’ve always loved spacious areas and the clean look of top car dealers such as Mercedes, Porsche or Jaguar. I love the clean white surroundings, reflecting light, and large reception areas with a feature wall showcasing the company logo. I felt all of these elements would translate beautifully into a masculine salon space.

In keeping with his passion for prestige car brands, it’s no surprise that James opted for Takara Belmont

and, more specifically, their GT Sportsman grooming chairs. With high-end appeal, supreme quality and a look that’s inspired by a classic racing car seat, James comments: “The GT Sportsman’s sit perfectly with the aesthetic of the salon. The richness of the black upholstery is gorgeous and I love the fact that its sports car seat look is both modern and classic. I also love the curves and silhouette – seriously it’s the most comfortable barber chair to sit in, which is a big plus from our client feedback.

“Another advantage of the GT Sportsman is that its sleek design is narrower. This allows your elbows to get closer to your body as you move around which promotes good posture. Posture is always an issue for barbers and stylist and this helps a great deal.”

So, what are the most important elements to look for when selecting a chair for a barbershop as opposed to for a salon? James said: “When looking for a barber chair, having a lever to recline the client effortlessly and to move and adjust is essential, especially for blade control when working on services such as shaving, working around the hairline, and beard shaping. Takara Belmont cover all of this. The hydraulic base is essential because it allows you to bring your client up to the right height which ensures optimal comfort for them, and the barber. The chair is where your client is going to be positioned for most of their appointment, so comfort is a must. Takara Belmont is absolutely premium and pure quality. Nothing else compares!”

“THE GT SPORTSMAN CHAIRS COMPLEMENT THE AESTHETIC OF THE SALON PERFECTLY. THE RICHNESS OF THE BLACK UPHOLSTERY IS GORGEOUS, AND THE SLEEK DESIGN GIVES US MUCH CLOSER MOVEMENT AROUND THE CHAIR.”

TIPS ON HOW PLANNING MAXIMISES PROFITS

TAKARA BELMONT SHARES ITS TOP TIPS

Space planning might not immediately spring to mind when you think about how to maximise profit, but it is crucial to success. Every barbershop has a finite amount of space and how you utilise it, integrate services, and create flow can mean the difference between profit and loss. Here’s five top tips to maximise incomes and profit from considered space planning:

1. Prioritise Your Customer Experience

Consider the client experience and journey you want to create. This means understanding your locale and the demographic you’re serving. E.g. if you’re situated in a busy city centre with high

numbers of clients, or in a rural destination with a more relaxed client flow through; allow for this at the planning stage.

Create a client journey that’s relevant to how you want to position your business and how you exceed the expectations of your audience. Once identified, you can create a floor plan and layout based on how this journey plays out from the moment your client enters to when they leave. At this stage, you can locate the equipment and zones – from the reception/waiting area to the styling stations, backwash, and rest areas.

2. Design For Success

Creating an interior style that reflects your brand positioning and pricing is crucial.People are visually motivated and relate immediately to how your barbershop looks and feels. It speaks to them and defines their expectations, so if they’re looking for relaxation and luxury, they will opt for a barbershop that projects these values. If they want a fun, trendy or edgy vibe, they will lean toward high energy experiences.

Equipment is a vital constituent to design. Not just in terms of its aesthetic, but also to support the services you deliver, and how it’s positioned in your layout to maximise profit per square foot.

3. Budget Your Way To Profit

How you finance your design, equipment and layout is a major consideration. Speaking to a design expert will help you keep control of costs, manage your investments, and identify tax efficiencies to protect your capital and cashflow. If you lose control of costs and overlook calculating your return on investment, it can be very costly, and could even lead to business failure.

One major breakthrough in this respect is Takara Belmont’s 0%, zero deposit Finance Lease Scheme. Not only can we help you arrive at the right plan, we ensure your investment in equipment is tax efficient, affordable, and flexible. This scheme also releases cashflow to invest in other priorities such as staff, training, and rent.

4. Support Your Team

The barber's experience is just as vital as the clients'. Dividing your square footage by 150 will give you an indication of how many styling stations you can accommodate. So, a 1,500 sq ft barbershop would have around 10 stations with the remaining space allowing for reception, waiting area and retail. This also improves client comfort, privacy, and personal space.

5. Storage And Other Priorities

When creating a floorplan, it’s easy to focus on the service area, but restrooms, back office, storage, stock holding, and staff areas need to be factored in too.

Remember, the layout of your space affects everyone who enters it, so take all experiences into account. Everyone wants to look forward to going there, feel excited to be there and feel positive.

Images // Parlous Barbers

MANY ASPECTS OF A BARBERSHOP CONTRIBUTE TO COMMERCIAL SUCCESS. THE TEAM'S EXPERTISE, SERVICES, PRICING, AND LOCATION ALL IMPACT PROFITS. JUST AS IMPORTANT ARE THE INTERIOR SETTING AND CLIENT LOYALTY. WHAT ABOUT SPACE PLANNING?

CUTS

CLOTHING COFFEE

SCOTLAND-BASED HARD GRIND OWNER COLIN PETRIE LEADS US THROUGH THE PROCESS OF OPENING A BARBERSHOP TO FRANCHISING YOUR BRAND GLOBALLY.

WE ALSO DISCUSS HOW TO HONE YOUR BRAND AND MASTER THE SKILLS YOU NEED TO JUGGLE BEING A MANAGER, ENTREPRENEUR, AND A BARBER.

Colin expanded a Scotland-based streetwear brand from a single 6.5-thousand-square-foot flagship store into a five-location franchise with a huge warehouse and online teams. But that didn’t satisfy his entrepreneurial spirit…

12 years ago, he had the idea to create his own one-stop-shop for all things ‘lifestyle’. He envisaged a cultural hotspot, where local communities of creatives and clients could spend time together. “A mini mall experience where you can eat, drink, get your hair cut, and do some shopping in a cool, relaxed atmosphere,” is how Colin explained it to us.

Colin made these ideas a reality. Introducing: HARD GRIND.

The first HARD GRIND barbershop opened in 2014 in Dundee, then Aberdeen, and finally, Arbroath in Scotland. 2024’s plan is to franchise into the UK and European market – first stop, Copenhagen. “Our ethos from day one was to create a better, more integrative experience for client and barber,” Colin explained. “I was never the best barber – but that was never my goal. My goal was to provide the best possible client experience and open a space for other barbers to do their best work.”

Images sourced // Colin Petrie

“OUR ETHOS FROM DAY ONE WAS TO CREATE A BETTER, MORE INTEGRATIVE EXPERIENCE FOR CLIENT AND BARBER.”

Let’s get down to business! What’s the first step to building a successful franchise? “Define your brand ethos and build your identity through shows, events, and continuous education. We went to cut hair at a tattoo convention in 2013, which nobody really did at the time –folk thought it was a bit bizarre. Engaging with bordering creative industries is a great way to expand your mindset and brainstorm ways to market your brand and its services to an audience that exceeds locality and industry.”

Another major part of franchising is educating yourself. “Build your knowledge on the financial and legal stuff. Juggling leases, rents, landlords… Managing the books and POS software between premises is a huge responsibility as well, so making sure you invest in the right software and in the right people to ensure that every location upholds the quality and expectations of your brand.”

Working with people and managing them effectively is a massive aspect of successfully running a franchise. “Be prepared to juggle dozens of staff as well as deal with staffing issues. Barbering’s chair rental and booth rental layout are huge parts of the working culture and so barbers will come and go.” Most of all, though, you do need to have a biggerpicture mindset. “Four years after HARD GRIND Dundee opened, we knocked the walls through into the next space to introduce a coffee shop, which I called Daily Grind. We also tore the low ceilings down to match the more industrial layout next door.” When it comes to franchising as part of Hard Grind,

how much influence do barbers get in the day-to-day? “The main principles and training – i.e. the way that clinets are treated – is gospel. Every element of a HARD GRINDwas specifically curated by me from day one. E.g., colours, football tables, PlayStation 5 consoles, flat screen TVs, and artwork on the walls are to be mirrored between all shops. They’re all standardised.”

Now, you can own your own piece of the grind by joining this multi award-winning barbershop group, led by one of the industry’s most iconic and well-respected barbers. It took two years for Colin and his team to the HARD GRIND franchise deal together. Each handbook contains info about the ethos, layout, and expectations that come with joining Hard Grind. From the branding and the apparel to the artwork and the layout.

“We do one-on-one training with new franchise members on the managerial side of running a HARD GRIND location as well as how to train the barbers themselves.”

Colin wanted to ensure that opportunities were in abundance for the people who join his ranks. “We offer more than just the experience of cutting in a shop. We give education alongside editorial and sponsorship opps as well as competitions.”

The way Colin sees it: “This is about what we can do for our people so much as what they can bring to us. We facilitate growth as a person and a barber. Every business skill that you learn is transferrable to roles outside of HARD GRIND as well. There’s so much value for everyone involved.”

JOIN THE HARD GRIND FRANCHISE

“You don’t have to the best barber out there to fit in at HARD GRIND,” Colin said. “If you can execute a solid haircut whilst providing an incredible experience and top-notch customer service, then you align with the HARD GRIND service-driven ethos.”

Register your interest at hardgrind.co.uk/pages/franchise or message the team on Instagram @hardgrind_ for more info.

CONSCIOUS COLLABS

Since the birth of the Brosh brand, collaboration has been a major value and component of the business. The brand itself was born out of a collaboration between Mr Brothers Cut Club and Apache. Mr Brothers Cut Club is a barbershop brand that is responsible for establishing the culture of barbering in Japan, boasting tremendous popularity among the younger generation. It is overwhelming the number one shop in Japan for its recognition and exposure, with 1,500 monthly visitors. So, when they first collaborated with Mr Kawakami, the owner of Apache and a living legend in Japan’s barber culture, educating and performing all over the world, you knew it was going to result in a pretty remarkable product.

And that product was the Highest Quality Japan-Made Brosh Pomade, known for its hard hold, carefully selected ingredients, and high-end fragrance.

Since, Brosh has grown their collection to more than 20 products, a variety of pomades, along with gels, balms, sprays, and shampoos. Brosh also carried on creating many more collaborative products with fashion, pop culture, and skateboarding brands such as their BROSH X Pabst Blue Ribbon Pomade, BROSH Pomade X Marvel Captain America, BROSH X Wacko Maria Pomade, BROSH X Love Ear Art Pomade, BROSH X Evisen Skateboards, BROSH X Cloudy, and BROSH X Linc Original. They have also collaborated with and attended events sponsored by brands like House of Seven, Sponsored by Jack Daniels, and the BornFree Motorcycle Show.

Ryu explained that in the beginnings of Brosh,

they were heavily influenced by Americana biker and skateboarding cultures, so collaborations felt like a natural move for the business. He said: “Our style of barbering is based on the same culture as motorcycle and fashion brands, so why not push the brand awareness beyond the barbering industry to attract more clients with similar styles and values?”

I asked Ryu what some of his favourite collabs have been over the years. He said that one of the most memorable collaborations for the brand was with CLOUDY. He said: “We have done a lot of collaborations over the years, especially in the last year, but this one is a special one. Our partnership with Cloudy was born in order to support the barber academy they were opening in Ghana. All profits from this pomade are donated to cover the cost of the equipment necessary to open the Barber Academy and the maintenance of the living environment for the students.”

Brosh is also always collaborating and attending barbering events around the world, most recently at Barber Connect UK. Now retailing in the UK and Ireland, Brosh products can be found on the Chris & Sons website. Brosh brought their team from Japan and America to Telford this June to show off their products, and collaborate with some of the UK’s top barbers. Ryu said: “Barber Connect was a great success, and we felt we did very well. It was great getting to meet with this community of barbers, and we look forward to doing some more collaborations and events on this side of the pond!”

Ryu explained that it is through collaboration that the brand has been able to double its sales channels. He said: “When we work with other

brands outside of the barbering world, we are able to reach their entire clientele, through events and also through their social media following. Then their clientele becomes our clientele. People who may have never really thought or cared about hair or barbering, now have a reason to care and to relate to us, and to see how cool it can be.”

Through making connections with the barbering community, Ryu explained that Brosh has been able to form a more solid identity for itself. He said: “There is no other brand like us, a barbering brand with as wide of a reach through so many different communities.”

Finally, I asked Ryu if Brosh had any new collaborations in the works. “Of course. So, stay tuned!”

‘COLLABORATION’ IS ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE WORDS TO HEAR IN THIS INDUSTRY, WHETHER IT’S BRANDS OR PROS TEAMING UP FROM WITHIN THE INDUSTRY OR FINDING A BRAND OUTSIDE OF THE BARBERING INDUSTRY WHO HAVE ALIGNED VALUES. THE JAPANESE BARBERING BRAND, BROSH IS ALL ABOUT THE COLLAB. WE SPOKE TO RYUNOSUKE NAKADA TO FIND OUT WHY.

“OUR STYLE OF BARBERING IS BASED ON THE SAME CULTURE AS MOTORCYCLE AND FASHION BRANDS, SO WHY NOT PUSH THE BRAND AWARENESS BEYOND THE BARBERING INDUSTRY TO ATTRACT MORE CLIENTS WITH SIMILAR STYLES AND VALUES?”

THE HEART OF BUSINESS

WHAT DO MOST SUCCESSFUL BUSINESSES HAVE IN COMMON? THEY HAVE HEART BEHIND THEM. WEZ JONES, OWNER/DIRECTOR AT THE HEARTBREAK CLUB SHARES HIS BEST BUSINESS ADVICE AND PROVES WHY BRANDS THAT HAVE HEART, SOUL, AND PASSION BEHIND THEM ARE OFTEN THE ONES THAT COME OUT ON TOP.

Wez’s journey in the industry started at just age 14, splitting his time between barbering and hairdressing at a split barbershop/ salon. Wez said: “I split my time between the two but focused on barbering. Yet, at the time, I only had the option of doing a level 2 NVQ in hairdressing which didn’t cover any short hair or barbering. So, essentially all my short hair and barbering was picked up in the barbershop. What was great was that I was able to create a style of my own which blended the create side of hairdressing with the classic side of barbering.”

17 years later and Wez has created The HeartBreak Club – open and available for everyone. “We wanted to make a place where both staff and client felt comfortable in their own skin, whether you’re under the gown or cutting hair.

“We try to create a vibe where the clients who come in feel like they are part of the little thing we have. So, they feel like they can stay beyond the haircut for a hangout, or go as far as pull us to one side for a private chat if they need help.”

Wez continued: “We’ve all undergone training with the Lions Barber Collective to ensure we are

best equipped to help our clients and staff with mental health issues and any signs of ill health.”

The interior of the HeartBreak Club is a big nod to the styles of the ‘80s. “Miami cocktail bar meets Sonic the Hedgehog on the Megadrive,” as Wez describes it. He said: “I wanted to create somewhere that was clinical and neat, but that still had a lot of energy and excitement about the way it portrays itself.”

Brand identity is something that is important to Wez. He believes that the messages that are at the heart of the business should shine through every little thing you lay eyes on in the shop. That means that everything from the tools, the décor, to the capes have been carefully selected to be ‘on-brand’.

Wez said: “You need to make your brand recognisable for every detail. It’s essential to have a brand identity so that clients can connect everything together. This helps people explain what kind of brand you are rather than saying, ‘I don’t know really’. If you keep your brand altogether, people will know what you’re going for and find it easier to recognise and recommend.”

Capes were an important and well-thought-out purchase for Wez. He explained: “You can spend thousands on fancy lights or chairs and people don’t even notice, spend a couple more quid on some extra quality gowns that directly touch and impact the client– you’ll make a much bigger impact. Clients always notice this and remember where you invested your money.”

One look at the HeartBreak Club, and it’ll be no

“YOU CAN SPEND THOUSANDS ON FANCY LIGHTS OR CHAIRS AND PEOPLE DON’T EVEN NOTICE, SPEND A COUPLE MORE QUID ON SOME EXTRA QUALITY GOWNS THAT DIRECTLY TOUCH AND IMPACT THE CLIENT– YOU’LL MAKE A MUCH BIGGER IMPACT.”

surprise where Wez sources capes from – none other than Cape Gang. As an ambassador for the brand, you will also catch Wez’s clients and models sporting Cape Gang capes wherever he roams, whether it be a pop-up in a club, a convention or a photo shoot. Wez explained: “We started using Cape Gang capes because they helped us push our own personalities even further in the shop. Bright colours and bold styles mixed with really good quality – that’s what our brands have in common.”

Wez’s advice for those who hope to open their own business? He said: “Getting your admin done right first. Before you buy a chair or comb, make sure your bills and accounts are set up so you know exactly where you stand. Then start small on the important stuff. Nice gowns, nice tools. Then make sure everyone (including yourself) has your brand ethos and attitudes right before a client even walks in for the first time. Then copy and paste to every client, every day and watch your business start to grow.”

NEW DESIGNS NEW PRICE

“WE STARTED USING CAPE GANG CAPES BECAUSE THEY HELPED US PUSH OUR OWN PERSONALITIES EVEN FURTHER IN THE SHOP. BRIGHT COLOURS AND BOLD STYLES MIXED WITH REALLY GOOD QUALITY – THAT’S WHAT OUR BRANDS HAVE IN COMMON.”

BY ERIC LOVEMORE

ULTIMATE HEALTH

WITH CORE x SUREPURE

OUR COLUMNIST, ERIC LOVEMORE IS A MASTER BARBER, INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR, ADVISOR & BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR ARTERO UK, AND EDUCATOR & ARTISTIC MANAGER FOR HEAD QUARTERS. HE LOOKS AT THE SUREPURE X CORE COLLECTION, A SELECTION OF PREMIUM WELLBEING PRODUCTS HAND-PICKED BY WORLD CLASS FASHION DESIGNER SCOTT HENSHALL.

Scott Henshall has been dominating the Red Carpet since 1998 when, at age 22, he became the youngest designer to show during London Fashion Week. In 2000, he won the Vidal Sassoon Award for cutting edge talent and has since been gathering media attention as the designer of international celebrities. His client list includes Victoria Beckham, Paris Hilton, Rosario Dawson, Victoria Silvstedt, Kylie Minogue, and Madonna –the list goes on!

Fun fact – for the 2002 Spiderman 2 premiere, Scott created the world's most expensive dress, a five-million-pound diamond cobweb dress worn by Samantha Mumba.

It doesn’t end there! My friend is the previous Creative Director at incredibly iconic fashion house, Mulberry. In his time with the legacy brand during the early 2000s, he revamped their English Country Spirit. Scott was responsible for their rebranding and advertising. The industry titan also dressed major celebrities like Kate Winslet, Cameron Diaz, and Dido as part of the Mulberry team.

Fast forward to present day and Scott has just launched CORE with SurePure CBD. Alongside his business partner, Paul Carroll, he curated a line of CBD oils, body creams, massage oils, gummies, and tea. When I sat down to chat with Scott about his recent business venture, he told me: “SurePure CBD is a UK-based supplier of premium, high quality CBD products. I created the CORE range because what can be found

in every human’s CORE? It’s their heart! I do everything with my heart and with passion so that I can present the best possible products and opportunities to the consumer. And that’s what I am delivering with SurePure: the best of everything, as delivered by Scotty!” he laughed.

A full-body approach to health improvement and immune function, the CORE CBD range helps you get closer to whole-body health – including boosting the health and happiness of your hair.

The SurePure team said: “It is our mission to retail THE BEST CBD ON THE UK MARKET and deliver

this to our customers. We take pride in knowing that we see our products all the way from initial production to the end consumer.”

Scott continued: “As you know Eric, I’m always working towards looking and feeling the absolute best about myself! When the opportunity came along to collaborate with SurePure CBD, I jumped at the chance to help others achieve optimum health, too.”

Why SurePure – what drew Scott to the brand? He told me: “This brand are the leaders in this industry and their message fitted with CORE’s brand philosophy of making one feel the best they can. Like I said, the heart is at the CORE. Gordon, the Founder of SurePure, was on the same wavelength. He hit the spot! So Paul and myself decided to collaborate on a range of products that makes people feel better from the inside out, which is what CBD does. I truly believe this product helps you be the ultimate version of yourself!”

I asked Scott what his favourite product is – if he can choose one! He answered: “It’s got to be the CORE SurePure Gummies. They just give you that extra kick, right when you need it!”

“

SUREPURE ARE THE LEADERS IN THIS INDUSTRY AND THEIR MESSAGE FITS WITH CORE’S BRAND PHILOSOPHY OF MAKING ONE FEEL THE BEST THEY CAN.”

ADDITIONAL SERVICES

CAN BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE AND BRING ADDED VALUE TO CLIENTS. OFFERING MORE SERVICES MAXIMISES YOUR TIME WITH EVERY CLIENT, OPENING SPACE TO UPSELL PRODUCTS YOU’RE USING AND STRENGTHEN REPUTABILITY. THE ULTIMATE ADDITIONAL SERVICE? BEARD CARE.

BEARD CAREAdditional Services

FACING Beard Care

HOUSE MARTIN

IS ONE OF THE TOP BARBERSHOPS

A

PREMIUM EXPERIENCE,

IN

GLASGOW, SPECIALISING

IN OFFERING ITS CLIENTELE

ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO

BEARD AND MOUSTACHE GROOMING. OWNER STEPHEN MARTIN SHARED SOME OF THE WAYS THEY TAKE THEIR BEARD CARE SERVICES TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

Why Beard Services Matter

House Martin Barbers is not just your run-of-themill, high-street barbershop. And it is the little touches and the extra care and precision put into everything they do that makes this so. From the little extra pride each of their barbers takes in their work, to the high-quality professional products they use, the coffee bar and Cuban cigar selection, Stephen works to provide an elevated client experience. So, when it comes to beard and shaving services, clients know they are going to be well taken care of.

Stephen said: “I remember hearing once that the thing that separates a barber from a master barber is their ability to perform a proper hot towel shave. When I opened House Martin, I wanted to position it in the market as an elevated version of a barbershop, so along with being appointment only and creating a nice aesthetic, part of that was to provide luxury beard and shaving services.”

From this positioning, House Martin has become one of the go-to barbershops in the city for pre-wedding grooming, as well as building a diverse, but generally more mature clientele. House Martin has also become famous for their beard services, with a large percentage of its clientele coming in regularly for both hair and beard services.

Stephen said: “When I break down our percentages, the second most popular services after just a haircut are the haircut + beard services. We even have some clients who come to us purely for beard trims and services, because they can’t get a service like this anywhere else. This alone proves the importance of these services, as these are clients who are drawn to us specifically because of the care we put into these services.” 

The beard care services

in House Martin’s menu are as follows:

Fad or Forever?

Choosing the right shape for your client

Of course, part of the popularity of the beardfocused services at House Martin is due to the popularity of the beard these days! Beards in general saw a huge resurgence in the 2010s, and they haven’t died down since.

I asked Stephen if the different styles of beard are driven by trends the way hairstyles often are. He said: “Beards in general are a pretty personal thing, so the style and length a lot of clients wear them in is usually down to factors like their personal style, face shape, hair growth, etc. However, there have been shifts in trends over the years. For a while, we were seeing the trend of very sharp lines and a sharp beard shape. We also saw the era of the hipster lumberjack beard, where there were a lot of really big, long beards, often paired with a waxed handlebar moustache. Today, however, I think the majority of men are wearing beards quite short to the face, with more natural lines. And for moustaches, we are seeing fewer of the waxed and shaped moustaches, and more of the fuller ‘pornstar’ or Top Gun ‘staches.”

How do you help clients find the right shape for their face? “90% of the time, the client will just say, ‘It’s up to you.’ But it never is really up to me. There are generally three beard shapes: round, square, and pointed. If I have a client in the chair who isn’t sure what they want, I will use my hands to push the beard into the three shapes, so the client can visualise the results to make their decision.

“Then I will ask them if they are wanting a sharp lineup, or something softer and more natural. For beard beginners, natural

THE STEPS

TO A HOUSE MARTIN BEARD SERVICE

BEARD TRIM AND SHAPE

1. Wash the beard with Beard Shampoo from Murdock London and wash your face with Jack Black Daily Facial Cleanser. For clients who have short beards or just stumble, we will use the Jack Black Face Buff, as a gentle exfoliator.

2. Lean the client back and apply hot towels to steam the skin and open the pores.

3. We use Jack Black Beard Lube as a substitute for shaving cream to close shave the neck and cheeks. The Beard Lube is perfect for beard services as it is a conditioning shave cream that rubs in clear, making it easy to see your lines.

4. Then, on goes the cold towel with peppermint oil, to refresh the skin and close the pores.

is usually the way to go. The key is always working incrementally with your clients. You generally don’t want to shock them with a big transformation in their first service.

“The most important element, regardless of the shape is to create a strong jawline. A beard can work wonders in creating the illusion of a strong jaw and hiding away the chins. For most men, once they see themselves with a beard, they don’t want to go back.”

Stephen also explained the importance of showing your client how to maintain their beard. “The difference between the beard looking unruly and dishevelled can sometimes just be a brush and a bit of product. And trust me, there is a big difference between an unruly beard and a well-maintained one.”

Stephen noted that many clients are more attached to their facial hair than their head hair. He said: “A lot of men with beards and moustaches become known as ‘The guy with the moustache’ or ‘That guy with the long beard.’ These things become much more tied to the client’s identity, so it is important to be careful when trimming and shaping the beard. Every guy's beard is different, hair patterns and directions vary a lot more in beards than on the head, so the rule of thumb is to work incrementally and chip away at the beard, to slowly uncover what’s going on underneath.” •

5. Apply Murdock of London Post Shave Balm and Jack Black Double-Duty Face Moisturiser onto the skin. Then either the Murdock London Beard Moisturiser or Reuzel Beard Balm, depending on the style and length. The Beard Moisturiser is a popular product as it gives you a matte finish and a little bit of shape. The Beard Balm is great for clients with longer beards that need a little more styling.

6. Finally, we carry the line of Murdock London Colognes which we will sprits on at the end of the service (if the client wants). The Black Tea fragrance is a favourite.

“THE [MURDOCK OF LONDON] BEARD MOISTURISER IS A POPULAR PRODUCT AS IT GIVES YOU A MATTE FINISH AND A LITTLE BIT OF SHAPE. THE BEARD BALM IS GREAT FOR CLIENTS WITH LONGER BEARDS THAT NEED A LITTLE MORE STYLING.”

“I REMEMBER HEARING ONCE THAT THE THING THAT SEPARATES A BARBER FROM A MASTER BARBER IS THEIR ABILITY TO PERFORM A PROPER HOT TOWEL SHAVE. WHEN I OPENED HOUSE MARTIN, I WANTED TO POSITION IT IN THE MARKET AS AN ELEVATED VERSION OF A BARBERSHOP, SO ALONG WITH BEING APPOINTMENT ONLY AND CREATING A NICE AESTHETIC, PART OF THAT WAS TO PROVIDE LUXURY BEARD AND SHAVING SERVICES.”

WILL POULTER’S RECENT APPEARANCE AT THIS YEAR’S PARIS FASHION WEEK BROKE THE INTERNET. “THIS MAN HAS HAD THE MOST INSANE GLOW-UP,” COMMENTED AN ADMIRER. WHAT HAD THE ACTOR OF THE MOMENT DONE? WHY, MR POULTER HAS SIMPLY FRAMED HIS YOUTHFUL FACE WITH A BEARD AND MOUSTACHE. MISSION BOY TO MAN DULY ACCOMPLISHED!

FRAMING FACES

with Captain Fawcett

Safe to say, beards aren’t just a passing trend. In fact, they continue to grow in popularity. And if there’s one man whose beard is well recognised across the global barbering industry, it’s Richie Finney, founder of award-winning Gentleman’s Grooming brand Captain Fawcett. He’s worn his magnificent whiskers for years. In fact, the whole Fawcett story sprang from a Moustache Wax Richie originally cooked up at home for personal use. An array of Beard Oils and Balms followed and now Captain Fawcett offers a superb full ‘Hair Couture’ collection, providing everything a man needs to take care of his hair - wherever it may be!

So about Will Poulter’s glow up, can you help clients make a similar jaw-dropping impression?

We asked Richie to share his own secrets.

How should someone get started with a beard?

Let if grow, let it grow, let it grow! However tempting it may be, do not shave for at least six weeks. Avoid any trimming or shaping at this tender stage, to best reveal where a chap’s beard growth is strongest. And

confidently ignore any disparaging comments from friends, family and workmates! It matters not what people think, this is your journey. Carry on!

What can I do for clients who ask me to make their beard grow thicker and faster?

Be honest! And make no false promises. Because the truth is, you can’t! However, rest assured, there is plenty you can do to support healthy hair growth. Indeed, your hair is a reflection of your lifestyle and as such, a healthy diet and decent sleep will certainly help a fellow make the most of his very own, uniquely wonderful beard. Look after yourself and your hair will grow!

Is growing a beard always itchy?

The initial period of hirsute experimentation with one’s face can be a tad ticklish. Moisturise stubble with a good quality Beard Oil, such as one of Captain Fawcett’s.

Captain Fawcett Ambassador Maxwell Newton / Photographer Iain Crockart

We have eight different nourishing Oils, each with a distinctive Signature Series fragrance to suit mood and occasion, all lending a subtle gleam to one’s noble mane!

How can barbers help?

Once hair is at a suitable length, it’s time to sculpt a beard to suit your client’s face shape and individual beard hair growth pattern. Defining the boundaries of a beard, from neck line to cheek line, creates a sharp, polished look. Trim flyaways with the Captain’s Hand-Crafted Grooming Scissors, enabling a precision trim of top lip topiary.

Should you shampoo a beard?

One simply must keep a beard clean, particularly those of us partial to ice-cream! Lightly apply a beard-specific shampoo to protect the hair cuticle and its balance of natural oils. Perchance your dear Grandma may have advocated egg, rain water or even fine ale to give hair a glorious shine? Well, she was quite right! Which is why Captain Fawcett's AwardWinning Beer’d Shampoo®, is made with his preferred IPA. It’s a reassuringly gentle concoction designed not only to wash away the detritus of the day, but to leave beards in tip-top condition!

I would also advise against use of a hairdryer as this is likely to dry out the hair, causing it to become brittle and prone to breaking.

How about brushing?

Certainly! A high-quality beard comb or brush, like Captain Fawcett’s Wild Boar Bristle Brush detangles facial hair and evenly distributes your preferred conditioning treatment. As well as stimulating the follicles it teases out any loose hairs. The Captain’s Folding Pocket Beard Comb is designed to pop in one’s pocket and tame unruly chins on the go!

What’s the best way to apply Beard Oil?

Comb gently through damp hair to enrich and condition while adding a beautiful sheen. Oils and Balms promote a softer, more manageable, delightfully strokeable beard!

What about the Moustache?

Pay special attention to your moustache. It’s a time-honoured method of ennobling one’s upper lip! Trim any stray hairs and use a tip top Moustache Wax to train it up and away from your mouth. A light Moustache Wax is fine for every day, but for the gentleman requiring a rather firmer hold I suggest Captain Fawcett’s Expedition Strength Moustache Wax, ideal for ‘Keeping A Stiff Upper Lip Regardless’™ when assailed by extreme heat or surviving an unscheduled encounter with one’s bank manager.

How about perfume?

Layering fragrance is a great way to give your beard added scent appeal. For example, Captain Fawcett’s Private Stock Beard Balm uses the Captain’s very own ‘Private Stock’ fragrance, as found in his award winning Beard Oil & Moustache Wax. It’s a delectable fusion of 5 base creams and exotic waxes fragranced with essential oils of Cedarwood, Black Pepper, Patchouli & Palmarosa to tame, nourish and condition beards. You’ll find full instructions for using all products on the Captain Fawcett website!

Any final encouragement?

Coax, cajole and reward! Patience is key! A beard takes time to grow and fill out. In truth, a combination of dedication and careful nurturing, along with gentle persuasion, cannot help but achieve great results.

All Hail the Hirsute™

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SHOW YOU CARE With Skin Care

Having been in the industry since she was 14, Morgan has spent her years building a remarkable career and reputation. Her hard work eventually led to the opening of Morgan Jones Barbers, an iconic shop in a unique location in Liverpool City Centre.

The space in which Morgan Jones Barbershop is located has been a barbershop for over 30 years, and Morgan was determined to carry on the legacy of the building. Morgan said: “I always said from a young girl would be my dream shop. I drove passed one day and the previous barber had a sign in the window to announce his retirement, it was meant to be!”

Within Morgan’s shop, she has kept the décor homely and cosy. "The listed building was once a home centuries ago, which is why we chose

the cosy, resembling more like a modern modern living room rather than a barbershop."

Morgan is the sole barber in the space, which was a conscious decision, as she said: “I prefer having my own space, as I feel that both my clientele and I favour the quality of one-to-one appointments.”

However, now, Morgan is not the only professional working under the roof of Morgan Jones Barbers. She has recently welcomed her partner Larnie, owner of Clinic 99, to share the space. Morgan explained: “Larnie is and has been a skincare consultant for 10+ years working for high-end skincare brands such as Estée Lauder, Clinique, and La Mer just to name a few. Larnie is also a qualified practitioner for skin boosters and vitamin injections.”

I asked Morgan how introducing the professional skincare element to the space is a universally beneficial move. She explained: “It was Larnie’s idea to create the Morgan Jones Barbers ‘Luxe Facial’, which became a really popular service for me. This was the start of introducing my clients to a skincare routine and the importance of it. I have handed the luxe facials over to Larnie in the Clinic where she is now providing clients with skincare advice and also introducing them to the other services and skin treatments she offers.

“The generation of men today have a stigma that pampering themselves is not a done thing. Don’t get me wrong, it is getting a lot better and men do look after themselves more. This

IN THE SAME WAY, WE KNOW SCALP HEALTH PLAYS A ROLE IN HAIR HEALTH, SKINCARE IS A VITAL ELEMENT TO HEALTHY FACIAL CARE. MORGAN JONES AND HER PARTNER LARNIE, OWNER OF CLINIC 99 BOTH KNOW THAT SKIN HEALTH AND HAIR HEALTH COME HAND IN HAND, AND THAT’S WHY THEY HAVE BROUGHT BOTH UNDER ONE ROOF AT MORGAN JONES BARBERS IN LIVERPOOL.

is why I feel that Clinic 99 being involved works really well. This will encourage more men to take time out to pamper, look after themselves and improve their appearance, and also educate them as to why skincare and skin treatments are so important. Were better to do this other than in the comfortable familiar environment of a barbershop.”

Naturally, since working alongside Larnie, Morgan explained that she has learned a lot about skincare herself, and she feels it has been very beneficial for her as a barber. She said: “After creating the ‘Luxe Facial’ I had training sessions to understand what each step of the facial was, what product was being used and why it was being used.

“I have personally suffered with my skin in the past. Larnie introduced me to a skincare routine which I follow daily. I hardly ever have skin breakouts and if I do I know exactly how to get this under control with the advice from Larnie. I also have picked up a lot of Information which I can confidently share with clients.”

Understanding skincare has also helped Morgan improve her shaving and beard care services. She explained: “Skincare measures are

definitely important for facial and beard services. Preparing the skin before a wet shave or beard is my most important step in the service. This makes my job a lot easier and is more beneficial for the end result.

“For example, a shaving rash is more common in people with dry / dehydrated skin. If the skin was fully hydrated and moisturised by having the correct skincare routine, the shave would be a lot kinder to the skin.

“I apply a hot towel to soften the skin, and shaving cream to remove the hair with the blade to prevent any pulling or nicking of the skin. Using a serum and moisturiser to give the skin the glow and finish.

“A good beard oil is something that should be used daily my go-to is Moroccan oil giving the best results. Hydrating and conditioning your beard helps soften and tame the thick, wiry hairs.”

Morgan continued: “The same goes for your skin underneath your facial hair/beard, as it does for your scalp. If your skin underneath is not nourished and clean then how can you expect your beard to look its best? If skin is left untreated hair follicles will become inactive which then delays the hair growth.”

ADVICE FROM A SKINCARE EXPERT

Larnie of Clinic 99 shares some of her top knowledge in skincare that you can bring into your barbershop:

Here are the products you need for a basic yet effective skincare routine:

• Cleanser

• Serum

• SPF moisturiser

Used in the order above every morning and every night before bed. Start this basic routine, and get to know your skin, once you reach this goal you can then begin to experiment with products and also add more steps into your routine if this is something you

want to do. But I truly believe that keeping it simple is best!

SPF is so important to be used regularly, sunscreen helps prevent sunburn, skin cancer and premature ageing.

I honestly feel that men are too quick to assume that a skincare routine is not needed and that eating well and going to the gym will result in good health and appearance. Men spend a lot more time damaging their skin through outdoor activities and work environments. We need to get it out there and make it known that a daily skincare routine and skin treatments are as essential for men as they are for women.

“SKINCARE MEASURES ARE DEFINITELY IMPORTANT FOR FACIAL AND BEARD SERVICES. PREPARING THE SKIN BEFORE A WET SHAVE OR BEARD IS MY MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN THE SERVICE. THIS MAKES MY JOB A LOT EASIER AND IS MORE BENEFICIAL FOR THE END RESULT”

DEFINING

Beard Care

BY KEVIN VORLEY

THE CONCEPT OF BEARD CARE IS A WIDE ONE, WHICH WOULD INCLUDE, CLIENT GUIDANCE FOR GROWTH, FREQUENT SERVICING OF THE FACIAL HAIR AND THE ALL-IMPORTANT CORRECT AFTERCARE AND RETAIL OF BEARD RELATED PRODUCTS. IN THIS COLUMN, I WILL UNPACK ALL THINGS BEARD CARE, AND WHY IT’S SUCH AN IMPORTANT SERVICE, NOT TO BE OVERLOOKED.

Our multi award-winning business owner and columnist, Kevin Vorley, is a BMB British Grand Master Barber, Andis Global Educator and innovator of ‘the K Way. He's also an international barbering educator and told us all there is to know about beards in the barbershop. Take it away, Kevin...

Beard services have always been such a personal thing, men are often very protective over their beard, and a bad or ill service can put back a beard growth by months, not just weeks as in hair.

In order to trim and design beards effectively, you need to gain the trust of the client first. Listen to their needs, and perform a detailed and correct consultation, using image references, forward thinking on what tools and approach you intend to use, and perfect communication are all the key elements prior to the start of any service.

Techniques

Depending on the length, shape and design of the beard, the density of the growth to the porosity of the facial hair- techniques are used to Quafer the beard hair to the clients desired outcome.

Barbers could use a variety of techniques to perform this by clipper guard work, clipper over comb, scissor freehand or scissor over comb as well as the use of an open razor to the outside edges to tighten, define and shape the outcome.

I always use a hot towel on any beard work performed- this relaxes the skin, allows me to prepare correctly and relax the client, using appropriate shaving creams, pre oils or gels as well as beard softening products, to tease and coax the facial hair and prepare the skin surface into the perfect condition to start the service.

The open razor is always used to give a final and definitive edge to any beard work, either with as ‘natural as’ finish or a tight aesthetic designed edge.

Tools

The use of clippers is the usual go to when designing and serving a client’s beard. My go to tool is the Andis clipper range, with the new Andis RE-vite white composite body edition unit, (lighter in weight and ultra responsive) with either the bevel blade or flat surgical blade (interchangeable), both of which allow me to truly define and neatly approach the beard with confidence.

Scissor-wise – the Spencer scissor range including the highly versatile 7’’ Tru- Blu wisp blades, light and ultra clean responsive sharp blades allow the finest of detail to be added with a scissor finished beard.

As discussed, products in conjunction with heat (hot towels) all assist and are without doubt, key to a successful service in this case when dealing with coarse hair and soft skin in some cases.

Scissors vs Electric

Blade work including scissors are perfect to produce softer or lighter edged finish.

Clippers hold the key to perfected geometrical shaping of the beard or facial hair, the trending ‘ghosted’ fade look and definitive shapes with the use of the adjustable clipper blade setting, performing angles and tapers, or closed clipper blunt finishes, resulting in varied, and unlimited designs of facial hair.

Note that all beards have individual growth patterns, so when training, you must consider how you can best provide the service to all growth patterns.

The importance of the hot towel

The towel, a simple but incredibly effective tool for the barber, allows the skin to be prepared for a clipper, scissor, or open bladed service without compromising the skin surface unnecessarily.

Photography // Kevin Vorley

Products

Prior to any service starting, I always use the following...

• Morgans facewash, and Morgans Beard wash – both applied separately, between the use of prepared and sterilised hot towel. Cleansing the skin surface and the beard thoroughly prior to starting any beard work is key.

• Pre shave oil, (K Product range) – additional skin protection for any expected blade work.

• K Shave Kreme or Morgans shave cream –both with a warm and prepared shaving brush.

• Af tercare on the skin – K post shave balm, or Morgans aftershave cooling lotion are a must to sooth, both relax and reset the skin surface, as in any shave service.

• Morgans beard softening elixir – any beard oil from the K beard care range. I also offer a variety of the Morgans beard oils and luxury beard cream from across their expansive range, all of which form part of the customer service we offer, selecting smells, invigorating the clients’ senses and leaving the client feeling fresh, clean and confident.

The beard hair would be prepared using the towels to prewash, cleanse and remove any inhibiting product from the beard preservice. The beard hair will respond positively if softened, making it more malleable and responsive to any clipper, scissor, or razor work.

Assessing Your Clients

A detailed discussion of the client’s beard/facial hair itself – the density, the coarseness, or sparseness of the coverage... all of these play an important factor of what can be possibly achieved with skill and confidence as well as plan to assist the client’s perseverance and patience to reach the goal set.

Beard Maintenance

Do not allow the beard to outgrow its shape! Prep the client with a timeline of return appointments as a means of maintaining and servicing the beard hair growth and encouraging repeat visits.

It is your job to guide, assist and educate the client to use any product correctly. The retail opportunity given, is a great gain to any salon, as retail assists in keeping your place in the client’s eye, as the expert, and a chance to guide and give unprecedented customer care beyond the chair experience.

The client must always therefore, have in their ‘man cabinet’/ shelf:

• A quality beard wash – not a shower gel he uses for everything! Honestly, this is so sadly common its ridiculous.

• A h ealthy selection of beard oils (for the lustre and condition and clean appearance of the beard hair itself)

• A b eard and facial moisturiser (For the skin beneath the beard and the skin surface of the face itself) Alternative use of the above products, will maintain healthy facial hair and the face skin surface. (My go to: K Beard Moisturiser).

• L uxury beard cream (Morgan’s) – this gives the beard a strong and conditioned feel and pulls in all the loose and wayward hairs that occur in between visits to you.

• B eard balms, a heavy duty wax for beards, this really works for coarse, strong, and wiry beards, smoothing, conditioning, and controlling beards of length, and density. (My go to - K Beard Balm). Softened with the heat of the palms prior to application and resetting into a wax form once applied and cooled.

• The use of as a hairdryer with care- using a directional nozzle, and a strong bristle beard brush (Morgans) to style, reset and prepare the beard finish, if the beard becomes uncontrollable. This reduces over use of product and allows the loose ends or wayward hair to be controlled easier.

• D O NOT advise or encourage the client to trim or touch up the beard himself- this will inevitably end in disaster, as many barbers have found, you tend to have to start again, as they get carried away trying to balance up the error, they made in doing so!

“IN ORDER TO TRIM AND DESIGN BEARDS EFFECTIVELY, YOU NEED TO GAIN THE TRUST OF THE CLIENT FIRST. LISTEN TO THEIR NEEDS, AND PERFORM A DETAILED AND CORRECT CONSULTATION”

BEARD TRENDS To give your clients

THESE ARE THE TOP FOUR BEARD STYLES YOUR CLIENTS WILL BE ASKING FOR AS AUTUMN ROLLS IN…

1. The Ducktail // Jason Momoa

Both Jamie Foxx and Leonardo DiCaprio adorned a type of Pointed beard in Django Unchained. A ducktail beard is flexible for length, but you’ll need initial length to create that pointed shape, so make sure your client comes in with at least two to four inches of growth.

As the Ducktail sits low on the face, they’re also something of a godsend for clients who grow thinner hair on the cheeks. Send your client home with a beard cleanser, pomade, and some advice to brush regularly.

Tools: shavette, beard scissors

2. The Anchor // Robert Downey Jr

The Anchor is a trimmed and well-groomed variant of the Inverted T beard. The floating moustache is often a minutely trimmed form of Pencil or Pyramidal moustache with an angular finish. This is a good one for your clients who deal with patchiness in their facial hair.

Tools: shavette, beard trimmer

3. The Verdi // Jake Gyllenhaal

A correctly trimmed Verdi beard normally doesn’t exceed four inches (10cm) in length, which makes it fall into the “short beard” category. Funnily enough, Italian Opera composer Giuseppe Verdi himself had a beard that looked more like a modern Garibaldi style facial hair, with the wide rounded bottom part and his whiskers never fully curled up. To execute a great Verdi, you’ll need to advise your client that they need two to four inches of facial hair and a couple months’ worth of moustache growth.

Tools: beard scissors, beard trimmer

4. The Short Box // Donald Glover (aka Childish Gambino)

It’s typically trimmed evenly to ½ inch length. This type of facial hair is a great choice for any man who wants to grow a full face beard, but doesn’t like the volume and ruggedness of a classic full beard. Perfect for your business-focussed clients who need to appear trimmed and proper for work every day. The shorter length makes the Short Box beard an accepted beard style for both in and out of the office.

Tools: beard trimmer, razor, beard and mustache scissors, beard shaping tool (optional)

TEXTURE TONIC SEA SALT SPRAY

Achieve natural volume and hold with this sea salt texture tonic. Adds perfect texture and waves with a light matte finish to all hair styles. Infused with natural dead sea salt. Natural, lightweight style to create soft volume. Enhanced beach waves and matte finish.

£7.95 // chrisandsons.co.uk

CAPTAIN FAWCETT STRONG POMADE

This high shine pomade offers a strong hold for medium/thick hair. Just the ticket for creating a range of super glossy styles from bad boy Outsiders quiff to duck-tail teddy boy and straight up pompadour. £20.00 // captainfawcett.com

MORGAN’S CURL CREAM

The ideal cream to tame, define and enhance those curls. Fight the frizz and add strength, shape and definition. Enriched with Argan Oil and She Butter to moisturise and nourish.

£10.50 // morganspomade.co.uk

WILKINSON SWORD BARBER'S STYLE POST SHAVE BALM

This unique balm is designed to help soothe post-shave and leave your skin feeling moisturised and soft without greasy residue. The formula is crafted with shea butter and menthol that not only provides a quality post shave but also takes care of the skin. chrisandsons.co.uk

Upgrade

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