SalonEVO North America Issue 19 (April / May 2023)

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ULTA BEAUTY

Ulta Beauty Pro Team// Nick Stenson, @nickstenson

Anna Manukyan, @amanukyan

Sonya Dove, @thesonyadove

Sean Godard, @seangodard

Danielle Keasling, @danielle.keasling

David Lopez, @davidlopezzz

Michelle O’Connor. @michelleoconnorbeauty

Hair Assistants//

Haley Kimble-Valadez, @haleyki

Beto Sanchez, @betoloveshair

Gilad Goldstein, @myguiltycrown

Reva Haga, @reva_danielle

Takeyra Shipps, @hair_bytakeyra

Laura Gunter, @lauragunterhair

Anthony Negron, @kinganthonyyyy

Viktoriya Yeremchuk. @viktoriyayeremchuk

Makeup//

Deney Adam, Ulta Beauty Pro Team

@deney_adam

Dmitry Potapov. @dmitrymakeup

Nails// Sarah Nguyen. @chrmdbysarah

Wardrobe//

Bjorn Van Den Berg, @vandenbergbjorn

Jennifer Daniels. @beforetheflash

Photographer// Richard Monsieurs. @richardmonsieurs

Production Team// ISP Creative.

@ispcreative

DANIELLE KEASLING

DEVINE MAGNETISM

Hair// Danielle Keasling, Nanci Lee. Products// Great Lengths. Photography// Glenn Nutley. Makeup Artist// Brittany Paige.

ORIBE SERENITY

Hair// Mandee Tauber for Oribe Hair Care.

Styling// Brynn Hemmingway.

Models// Xun Seon, Eniko Mahalik.

Products//

Oribe Serene Scalp Oil

Control Shampoo, Oribe Serene Scalp Oil Control

Treatment Mist, Oribe Serene Scalp Oil Control

Dry Shampoo Powder

Photography// John Guerrero.

David Foster// david@barberevo.com

Greg Wickham// design@salon-evo.com

Shana Young// design@barberevo.com

EDITOR

Jennifer Paxton// jennifer@salon-evo.com

ANDREW BREWSTER & DAVID FOSTER | CO-FOUNDERS

Mairi Mulhern// mmulhern@barberevo.com

Karen Carruth// karen@barberevo.com

Mairi Cotter// mairi@barberevo.com

* * * *

Jane Thomson// jane@salon-evo.com

* * * *

EVENTS MANAGER

Laura Davidson// laura@barberevo.com

* * * *

MANAGER

Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com

* * * * COVER Photographer// Richard Monsieurs.

WELCOME TO THE 100TH ISSUE OF EVO! WE’VE COME A LONG WAY SINCE THE FIRST EVER ISSUE OF BARBEREVO IN 2017. SALONEVO LAUNCHED IN 2020 AND WE’VE BEEN THE FRONTRUNNER FOR INNOVATIVE CONTENT EVER SINCE. LET’S TAKE A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE IN HONOR OF OUR 100TH EDITION…

The launch of BarberEVO North America in April 2018 sent shockwaves through the industry. It came hot on the heels of the launch of BarberEVO UK & Ireland in 2017, which has continued to hold onto its title as the UK’s leading barber publication for the last six years. Keen to continue meeting the demand for high quality trade publications, we launched SalonEVO. Our commitment to providing engaging content and contemporary design stands strong as we continue to bring six editions per year to over 15,000 leading hair, nail and beauty salons across North America. We are the salon magazine: created for salons, designed for salons, delivered to salons. Industry icons have graced our covers, from Ammon Carver and Danielle Keasling to Nick

Stenson and Alfredo Lewis. We’ve had the greats, but we reckon this is one of our best SalonEVO editions to date. The content and design are top notch, so take a deep dive into the world of EVO.

Let’s talk about the here and now. We’re in great company as ABS celebrate their 100th anniversary show in April. You know us; we love to come Stateside, so NAHA Premier , and ABS. Our editor tells you about our escapades on the next page… Also! If you’re reading this from your finalist goodie bag at NAHA, congrats! Be sure to follow us to keep up with our NAHA coverage – we’ll be on the red carpet interviewing the best of the best, getting the insider’s scoop you’re dying for (pun intended). Catch you there!

IT’S ISSUE 19 OF SALONEVO NORTH AMERICA , AND OUR 100TH ISSUE OF EVO! HOW EXCITING IS THAT? AND JUST IN TIME FOR HUGE INDUSTRY EVENTS SUCH AS NAHA , PREMIERE ANAHEIM , AND THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY OF ABS ! SO, BUCKLE IN FOR A HUGE EDITION OF SALONEVO

I have to say, I am incredibly excited about this issue of SalonEVO. Why? Because not only is it our hundredth issue of EVO, but it is the issue we will be sharing with the industry in-person at NAHA , Premiere Anaheim , and ABS ! Team EVO is packing their bags and heading on a big jet plane!

Gracing the cover of this exciting issue is the legendary and iconic, Danielle Keasling . We have been big fans of Danielle’s since the get go, and wanted to really showcase what an incredible artist and mentor she is in this industry. Plus, we get to announce that this issue kicks off her new journey as a SalonEVO columnist!

First on the calendar this month is NAHA! And if you are a NAHA Finalist, reading this magazine from your goodie bag, congratulations!

We also have an inspirational

interview with the Ulta Pro Beauty Team and Ulta Pro Design Team on how they came together to create the collection celebrating ABS 100 Years.

Love is in the air this time of year, and that means wedding season is upon us. We dive deep into bridal beauty, and all of the hair, nail and beauty trends this spring and summer.

Next, our color feature. We talk about everything from creating natural, healthy, lived-in color, to punk rock vivids, as well as the best and newest technology for application and aftercare. Hear from industry icons, such as Mickey Colon Jr, Ben Trish and Snooky Bellomo Finally, with April being Earth Month, we wanted to discuss how salons can lessen their impact on the environment.

Experts such as Luis Gonzalez Valorie

in!

JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR

Tate chime

STEPHANIE YAGGY LAVERY Executive Publisher Advisor, Mia Secret

NINA TULIO Business Ambassador, Oligo Professionnel

MCKENZIE TURLEY Founder of IBE & Goldie Locks Haircare

DANIELLE KEASLING

Global Director of L’Oréal brands, Matrix and Biolage, Executive Artistic Director of Great Lengths

ANNA MANUKYAN Ulta’s Head of Education & Creative. Founder, Beauty Finance Group

HAIRDUSTRY

Podcast hosts, Corey Gray and Tony Stuart

KRISTIN KAIDE Hair & Makeup Educator, Moroccanoil Artisitc Team

RAQUEL WELCH, ACTOR AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF RAQUEL WELCH WIG COLLECTION DIES AGED 82

A legendary beauty with a vivacious talent, Raquel Welch leaves a legacy as the smart, savvy Creative Director of her Raquel Welch® Collection.

HairUWear released a statement saying: “Raquel made it fun and fashionable to wear wigs. She insisted that any style in her collection be worthy of a leading lady and make you feel like you’d just stepped into the spotlight. We are honored to continue her mission for designing high-quality wigs and toppers that have effortless style… and just the right amount of sexy.”

The Golden Globe award winner starred in more than 30 films including Fantastic Voyage and The Three Musketeers, as well as many television series in her long career.

In her role as Creative Director of her Raquel Welch® Collection, Raquel was committed to creating quality products for women, so they could feel like their most confident selves.

She had said: “As the Creative Director of the world’s finest wig company, I have the privilege of working with a brilliant team of designers and stylists to develop my collections. Fresh, fashion-forward looks. Loads of natural texture and movement. Styles that are more fun than fuss. The highest quality craftsmanship. Gorgeous, ready-to-wear hair that feels as good as it looks. My mantra: Make it nothing but the best. Then make it better.

“Since I started the Raquel Welch Wig Collection, I’ve witnessed enormous advances in technology that have allowed for countless

AVEDA CORPORATION ANNOUNCES B CORPTM CERTIFICATION

improvements in the coloring, fibers, construction and wearability of our wig products…which means that they are lighter, more natural looking and more user friendly than ever before.”

Raquel’s legacy lives on through her HairUWear Welch® Collection, which will continue to supply high quality, fashionforward wigs and hair pieces for women.

ULTA BEAUTY JOINS THE SUSTAINABILITY CONSORTIUM

Ulta Beauty has joined The Sustainability Consortium (TSC) as its newest member.

The American beauty retailer said it will work to support the non-profit’s climate goals and engage other members in sustainability conversations.

“Ulta Beauty’s enthusiasm for deeper conversations on sustainability impact is a welcome addition to TSC’s endeavours, and I look forward to learning about their experience and unique perspective within our working groups and projects,” said Christy Slay, CEO of TSC. The company’s Corporate Social Responsibility efforts include diverting 14.8 tonnes of waste from landfills.

In 2021, the retailer invested US$1.6m in energy management system retrofits and claimed to work towards greater sustainable packaging across its full product range.

“Joining the TSC aligns to our ambition to create greater clarity across the industry relative to clean ingredients and sustainable packaging,” added Kristin Wolf, senior VP, Enterprise Strategy and Transformation at Ulta Beauty.

Ulta Beauty joins more than 100 TSC members, including Henkel, Kao and Walgreens Boots Allaince, working together on projects spanning plastic packaging to circularity.

Aveda Corporation (Aveda) the company behind the high-performance, vegan and Leaping Bunny Approved hair care brand with a mission to care for the world, announced that it has become a Certified B Corporation™ (“B Corp”), further recognizing and deepening its decades-long commitment to social and environmental responsibility.

Achieving B Corp Certification by the non-profit B Lab, confirms Aveda’s commitment to and presence of accountability and transparency throughout its mission-driven business. Facilitated by B Lab, Aveda underwent a rigorous and extensive review of its environmental and social practices and policies and was assessed across five pillars: governance, workers, community, environment, and customers. They achieved an overall impact score of 89.6, far exceeding the 50.9 average score of companies undergoing the assessment. Aveda will be held to high standards of accountability, undergoing a recertification process every three years to update its impact assessment and recertify as a B Corp.

More information about Aveda’s overall B Impact Score can be found by visiting the Aveda website.

In addition to its B Corp Certification, Aveda is also a public benefit corporation, which acknowledges that the business operates for both profit and to produce a public benefit and by law can consider the impact of its decisions on stakeholders. More info, visit aveda.co.uk/b-corp-certification

ANDIS UNVEILS NEW CREATIVE COLLAB WITH POPULAR NOBODY

THE LAST TIME SALONEVO TALKED TO ANDIS’ GLOBAL EDUCATOR JOHN

MOSLEY, HE HAD A SECRET HE WAS EXCITED TO SHARE. A LITTLE PERSUASION AND HE HINTED THAT THERE WAS A SPECIAL ANDIS COLLAB ON THE WAY. THE SECRET’S OUT… AND IT DOESN’T DISAPPOINT.

Andis® Company, a leading manufacturer of barbering and styling tools and education for professional barbers and hair stylists, has joined forces with award-winning barber and educator John Mosley, known professionally as ‘Popular Nobody’, to launch its most unique collection yet.

One of Andis’ leading Global Educators, John uses his influence to inspire creativity among professionals and this new collaboration, featuring three limited edition tools, highlights his artistry and encourages others to create their way.

“Kicking off our Creative Collab Series with John and his Popular Nobody brand is incredibly exciting. Andis is always looking to inspire and encourage others to create their way, so when we spoke with

John about the idea of creating a custom clipper with a common vision to support a great cause, we were excited to bring it to life,” said Angie Vlasaty Peterson, Andis VP of Marketing. “We think people will really love what we’ve done with John and B. Clark Customs.”

To introduce John to those who are not familiar with him, he’s an incredible educator, he’s an Andis Global Educator, and the 2022 NAHA Educator of the Year winner. He’s also a father, husband, son and mentor. He’s like a lot of us — a person playing multiple roles in life, grinding it out day after day. And being chosen as the first artist to partner with Andis for its Creative Collab Series is an honor for this humble man. John is on IG as @popular_nobody

THE COLLECTION

THE COLLECTION

Branded with the signature Popular Nobody “Atlas” Gorilla logo and a design based on a one-of-a-kind, hand-painted colorway by B. Clark Customs™, this special-edition release includes custom versions of the Master® Cordless Clipper, the Envy® Li Clipper, and the Slimline® Pro Trimmer.

Each tool for this collaboration was chosen by John with professional creators in mind. It combines some of Andis’ best-selling tools with the imagination and style of the Popular Nobody brand wrapped using fresh, modern colors, and a surprise black light glow design. Tools in the collection include:

Master Cordless Clipper Andis Company’s most popular professional clipper. The Master Cordless, offers high-speed power, constant speed technology and an adjustable blade for unbeatable precision that make it perfect for skin-tight fades and tapers. With a 90-minute cordless runtime and a durable aluminum housing, the Master Cordless Clipper delivers premier-quality cuts with the aesthetic edge of the Popular Nobody style.

Envy Li Clipper

With two hours of cordless runtime on a 90-minute charge, the super lightweight cordless Envy Li Clipper is designed with the craft in mind. The lightweight design is ideal for smaller hands and for comfortable all-day use. Decked in a unique Popular Nobody colorway, this clipper embodies creative freedom.

Slimline Pro Trimmer

A sleek, lightweight profile and extra-sharp carbonsteel T-blade mean this trimmer was built for ultraclose, precision detailing. The Slimline Pro Trimmer boasts an ergonomic design perfect for controlled outlining, designing and touchups on the neckline.

Also showcasing the Popular Nobody graphics, this trimmer completes this incredible, artful set of tools.

John said: “With the Master Cordless, I get the workhorse, the power and speed to do the heavy lifting, the blunt cuts. With the Envy, I have a tool that allows me to refine the style and achieve a softer finish as well as point cut.

"The Slimline Pro is a fantastic all-around trimmer and I love the way the longer body allows me to trim and keep my large hands a little further from the client’s face."

CLIPPERS WITH A CAUSE!

John is committed to giving back to his community and he has pledged $10,000 of the proceeds from this collaboration to ‘A Change is Coming’, a Texas-based 501(c) non-profit foundation that provides scholarships to Black and Brown youth. Andis will also be making a matching grant of $10,000 through its Andis Foundation to support the group’s work.

Of the donation, John said: “There comes a point in your career where you realize your success wouldn’t have been possible without someone else helping you. As an Andis Global Educator, I have seen how teaching others to be successful makes a difference. This creative collab with Andis is a great expression of artistry and giving back and A Change Is Coming is the perfect partner to benefit from this project.”

Available while supplies last, these limitededition tools will be sold separately on the Popular Nobody website (thepopularnobody.com)

For more information, visit the Creative Collaboration page on the Andis website (andis.com/CreativeCollab).

“THIS CREATIVE COLLAB WITH ANDIS IS A GREAT EXPRESSION OF ARTISTRY AND GIVING BACK AND A CHANGE IS COMING IS THE PERFECT PARTNER TO BENEFIT FROM THIS PROJECT.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION ANNOUNCES FINALISTS OF 2023 NORTH AMERICAN HAIRSTYLING AWARDS (NAHA).

CONGRATULATIONS NAHA FINALISTS!

Finally, NAHA 2023 is here! You may even be pulling this issue of SalonEVO out of your finalist goodie bag, waiting to find out whether you are a big winner! Or you may be dog-earing these pages for inspiration for your own NAHA Entry for 2024! Either way, all of the names and images below are so deserving of celebration. Congratulations to you all!

NAHA is the most prestigious professional beauty competition in North America and honors the salon industry’s top artists who push the boundaries of skill and creativity. NAHA 2023 is no exception, with extraordinary collections ranging from edgy Avant Garde to fashion-forward Editorial to nuanced Texture.

“The 2023 North American Hairstyling Award finalists exemplify the pinnacle of

excellence in the industry,” shares Nina Daily, PBA’s Executive Director. “Year after year, we continue to be amazed by the elevation of submissions demonstrated by these talented artists.”

To win a coveted NAHA award, artists submit their collections in fourteen creative and inspirational categories of hair, makeup, and education excellence. Development of these collections often takes months of envisioning, planning, and shooting.

Collections are judged anonymously in three rounds by a panel of esteemed experts in hairdressing and makeup artistry, and are scored based on technical skill, cohesiveness, and creativity.

The competition culminates in an industry-wide celebration of artistry at the NAHA ceremony, held in conjunction with Premiere Anaheim, on Sunday, April 2, 2023, in Anaheim, CA. For more info, go to: probeauty.org/naha.

BARBER OF THE YEAR

Adrian Gutierrez

David Barron Anakin Chan

Cassie Carey

Nieves Almaraz

Charles Robinson

Jamie DiGrazia

Cecilia Jimenez

Ashley Jackson

Victor Hugo

Images Courtesy of Professional Beauty Association.

EDITORIAL STYLIST OF THE YEAR

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR

HAIRCOLOR

HAIRCUTTING

Nina Tulio

Elizabeth Faye

Rodrick Samuels

Angelica Prather Keya Neal

Adrian Gutierrez Jamie Wiley

Lisa Von Kurvink

Joan Novak Timothy Cabell

Lindsey Olson Nicole Pede

Lori Zabel

Greta Coston

Luis Gonzalez

George Garcia Chrystofer Benson

Yuki Yasui

Brayden Pelletier Nieves Almaraz

HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

INSPIRING SALON OF THE YEAR

MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE THE YEAR

MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Prolific Styles of Art Beauty and Barber Salon

Hair is Happiness

Logan Parlor

Crawford Master Stylists Ltd.

Panache An Aveda Salon and Spa

Julie Vriesinga

Frank Cini

Danielle Keasling

Keith Bryce Brayden Pelletier

Breanne Gershon Nohemi Capetillo

Isidro Valencia

Sam Watson Mel Martinez

Allen Ruiz

Chris Baran

Ruth Roche

Anna Pacitto Teresa Romero

STUDENT HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

STYLING AND FINISHING

TEAM OF THE YEAR

TEXTURE

Carlos Alvarez

Danielle Waterman

Jaimee Harris Smith

Kenneth Dawson Caidy Brasure

Nicole Sherman Cooper Brooks

Didem Gokturk

Destiny Johnson Savanna Hoffman

Derrick Rutherford & Julio Rodriguez Team Vortex

JC Penney Salon Design Team

Nurtur Aveda Institutes Hair Biz and Beyond

Shannon King Alexander Turnbull

Keith Bryce Lukas Press Caidy Brasure

CHECKMATE

IN 2021, NIEVES ALMARAZ, WAHL PROFESSIONAL EDUCATOR, BOOKSY AMBASSADOR, AND FOUNDER OF HOW TO FADE HAIR BARBER SCHOOL , GAINED THE BRAGGING RIGHTS TO SAY HE WAS THE FIRST BARBER TO WIN A NAHA AWARD, IN THE MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST CATEGORY. NOW, NIEVES IS BACK TO SHOW HIS WIN WASN’T A FLUKE, HAVING FINALIZED IN TWO CATEGORIES – NAHA’S RECENTLY ADDED BARBERING CATEGORY AND THE HAIRCUTTING CATEGORY.

A big congratulations to Nieves for his double nomination for NAHA this year! I asked him how he felt when he had finalized again, in not one, but two categories. The Wahl Professional Educator said: “Thinking back to the first time I became a finalist, back in 2020, I felt so honored just that my work was chosen to finalize. Then when I won in 2021, I had learned a lot from the year before and felt a lot more prepared and confident going in. I remember the feeling of not wanting to get my hopes up or getting too excited. Now, going into this year, I am not even really thinking about the competition, because I am so proud of my collection. I feel I have really stepped outside of the box and taken my creativity to the next level.”

I asked Nieves why he felt pulled to enter his collection in the Hair Cutting category as well as the barbering category. He said: “I believe that this industry is changing so much, and NAHA being at the pinnacle of the industry, it is where that change becomes most visible. Last year when they added the Barber of the Year category, that showed that the industry really is evolving, and the world of barbering and hairdressing are becoming more and more intertwined.

“I was looking at the Haircutting category from last year, and I felt like the category was dominated by hair stylists. I thought if hairstylists can enter the barber category, why shouldn’t I enter the cutting category? Especially when fades and clipper cuts are becoming more and more prevalent in the salon world. So I thought it would be important to have it represented as a cutting technique.”

As a dual-licensed professional, Nieves is passionate about bridging the gap between the salon and barbering worlds. He said: “Because I started

with my cosmetology license, and then moved into the barbering sphere, all my work has always been influenced by both sides. I just don’t see that void or that line between the industries, especially not anymore. I hope that both stylists and barbers see my collection and equally feel inspired.”

The inspiration for this collection came to Nieves in a dream – literally! It was when he was on tour educating for Wahl Professional, that it came to him. He explained: “Checkerboard hair designs are something that I actually used to do a lot of back in the early 2000s. But I stopped doing them for a while, just in the way that trends pass. Then one day last year, I was traveling, teaching a class for Wahl, and I woke up from a dream in the middle of the night, grabbed a napkin, and drew this design. From then on, I had it in my head that I was going to turn this into a collection.

“After some time passed, my neighbor, who is a really talented photographer, came to me and said, let’s work on a shoot together. And he started sending me images of inspiration, and one of the models was wearing sunglasses with a checkerboard pattern. And this idea came flooding back to me. He loved the idea too, so we got started!”

Nieves really wanted to push the limits with his entry this year, not just in creativity with the hair, but with the image concept as well: "I really liked the idea of the model interacting with themselves, so it almost looks like identical twins in each picture. Not only do I think it makes the image more dynamic, but it also allowed us to show more than one perspective of the haircut. This added to the challenge a little bit because it meant that we needed to ensure that the cut looked perfect from every single angle.”

“FOR SOME, APPROACHING ALL THESE DIFFERENT HAIR TYPES, WITH A FAIRLY COMPLICATED DESIGN, MIGHT BE QUITE DAUNTING; BUT WITH MY WAHL PROFESSIONAL TOOLS I WAS FULLY CONFIDENT CUTTING ANY STYLE AND ANY TEXTURE.”

Nieves’ collection includes several different models, with different hair types and textures. Nieves took a slight variation on each cut, specifically with the styling of the top of the hair. I asked him how he created these looks. He said: “It was important to me to work with different textures because I wanted the collection to represent diversity, and also show the different ways this cut could be adapted for different models. For some, approaching all these different hair types, with a fairly complicated design, might be quite daunting. But with my Wahl Professional tools, I was fully confident cutting any style and any texture. The tools that saw me through the cuts were my Cordless Legend®, my Cordless Detailer® Li for the precision lines, and then my Vanish® Shaver.”

Wahl Professional helped make Nieves’ collection possible in more ways than one. Aside from providing Nieves with the best tools to create his incredibly detailed masterpieces, Nieves explained that his position as a Wahl Professional Educator has helped him prepare for and enter competitions like this with more confidence. He said: “As a Wahl Professional Educator, I have had the opportunity to work on campaigns and photoshoots before, so I got to be exposed to photoshoot environments and how they work. The more you practice something, the more comfortable and confident you become when you do it. When I started cutting the first model, I had those butterflies in my stomach. But the more I got into the flow of things, thanks to my experience of cutting hair and educating on stage, my vision started coming to life.”

Nieves mentioned before that the idea for this collection came to him one night while on tour educating. I asked whether he believes his role as a Wahl Professional Educator helps keep him inspired and constantly thinking about his next creation. He said: “Yeah, absolutely. I believe if you don’t

continue to challenge yourself and put yourself out there, staying relevant in the industry, you will get to a point where things will get very quiet for you. Being a Wahl Professional Educator encourages me to constantly be learning, so that I can keep up with the latest trends and tools and help share that information. Working with professionals that are still early in their journey and hungry to learn, is so inspiring and motivating for me, and that’s what keeps me current and ahead of the curve.” It’s clear that things are changing and evolving in this industry. I asked Nieves what kind of takeaway message he wants to give to barbers. He said: “As the two ends of the industry continue to merge, use this as a sign to challenge yourself. The barbering industry is elevating, and NAHA is giving us the opportunity to put our work next to the best stylists on the continent, so if you’re considering entering, do it! Whether you bring in models and hire a professional photographer, or you come up with something more DIY and creative in your shop, you will learn as you go!” Nieves’ advice for stylists? “I hope this inspires more stylists to try their hand at clipper work, take some barbering classes, or even invest in becoming dual licensed. It’s a way you can become more valuable as a professional and be prepared for whatever trends hit the mainstream.”

“I BELIEVE IF YOU DON’T CONTINUE TO CHALLENGE YOURSELF AND PUT YOURSELF OUT THERE, STAYING RELEVANT IN THE INDUSTRY, YOU WILL GET TO A POINT WHERE THINGS WILL GET VERY QUIET FOR YOU. BEING A WAHL PROFESSIONAL EDUCATOR ALLOWS ME TO CONSISTENTLY BE LEARNING SO THAT I CAN KEEP UP WITH THE LATEST TRENDS AND TOOLS AND HELP SHARE THAT INFORMATION.”

ANDIS POPULAR NOBODY EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATION

A beautiful collaboration with John Mosley, (@popular_ nobody) brings you the Andis Cordless Envy Li clipper and the Andis Cordless Master. The Cordless Master is the barber’s workhorse and the Envy refines the style to achieve a softer finish as well as point cut.

Envy $250.00, Master $450.00 // thepopularnobody.com

ACUT

WASHI KNOCKOUT MASTER SET

A masterfully crafted medium weight hair shear combo forged from Japanese V-10 steel. Features Washi’s Anti-Push Edges for smooth cutting action. Set includes a 5.5 or 6.0 inch cutting shear, a 30-tooth thinning shear, a Washi Texture Razor and a carrying case. $349.00 // washiscissors.com Save 15% with coupon EVO15.

KERASILK LIQUID CUTICLE FILLER

Provides long-lasting structural recovery and refinement of the hair cuticle. Rebuilds and optimizes the hair surface to create healthy-looking hair full of natural shine. Experience up to 93% increase in cuticle protection and 14 times more resilience against thermal stressors. With long-lasting anti-frizz and anti-static effects. kerasilk.com

MIA SECRET NEW LED-UV LAMP

Perfect for gel tips, with six LED lights, flexible neck for any angle and it is compact and modern. Safe for the eyes, no burning sensation and has 50,000 hours lifetime.

$19.99 // miasecretstore.com

OLAPLEX STAND ALONE TREATMENT™

POWDER

Conscious Beauty at Ulta Beauty™ has clean ingredients and cruelty free. This gives a weightless, velvety blur to the skin. Ultra-fine powder helps to set makeup for stay-put comfort.

$14.00 // ulta.com

JOICO YOUTHLOCK SHAMPOO WITH COLLAGEN

Delivers ageless body, shine, manageability, and bounce to hair that needs a revitalizing comeback. Cleansing with powerful collagen.

$21.50 // joico.com

WAHL PROFESSIONAL POWER STATION ™

This premium, weighted power station charges three Wahl Professional cordless clippers, trimmers or shavers with one cord and includes a USB-C port for phone or iPad charging. Six included tool inserts means you can mix and match any combo of tools.

$199.00 // wahlpro.com

ORIBE SERENE SCALP OIL CONTROL COLLECTION

Developed to extend time between washes by reducing excess oil and sebum on those with oily scalps. Designed to leave hair looking and feeling clean and

Using OLAPLEX Nº.1 and Nº.2 as a treatment gives deep repair throughout the hair, giving health, strength, and improving moisture retention. By treating the hair with an OLAPLEX Stand Alone Treatment™, repair is given like never before! pro.olaplex.com

ANISA EVERYDAY MAKEUP BRUSH COLLECTION

Featuring the award-winning Pinnacle Foundation Brush, Multi-Powder Brush and Angled Concealer Brush, this is a daily complexion-perfecting collection. Includes the carry case.

$90.00 // anisabeauty.com

KEAS LING

Photographer// Richard Monsieurs.

Today, Danielle is known as the Global Director of L’Oréal brands Matrix and Biolage, Executive Artistic Director of Great Lengths USA, and a member of the Ulta Beauty Pro Team. Named as 2018 North American Hairstylist of the Year as well as 2021 NAHA Editorial Stylist of the Year and nominated another 10 times; Danielle’s year is off to another great start as she has been named as a finalist this year yet again for the NAHA 2023 Hairstylist of the Year Award, and her team at Hair Biz and Beyond has finalized as NAHA 2023 Team of the Year.

When she is not working with one of the amazing brands she has aligned herself with, Danielle is running her coaching business, Hair Biz and Beyond, where she provides one-on-one coaching

DARING TO BE

for individuals and businesses to help them make their next move.

This issue, we wanted to dive deep into Danielle’s story, and learn what motivates her and makes her tick.

To start, we wanted to know Danielle’s story right from the beginning. Danielle explained: “There are two main sides in the hairstyling world. There is the public or fashion-facing side, where stylists work with celebrities, designers, and models in the world of session and editorial styling, and then there is the professional-facing side of things, where stylists can become educators, brand ambassadors, and platform artists.

“While most professionals know me as the latter, I actually started out in the editorial world of hairdressing. I was assisting and working at fashion

weeks, working with designers, and doing set work.” After years of grinding in the editorial world, Danielle went on to open her salon in 2011. It was an employeebased salon, which was in her area. “So, I really needed a strong culture and a strong education system to attract employees. We were a L’Oréal salon and I loved Matrix, so I thought, why don’t I work with Matrix and become an educator so that I can teach their curriculum to my salon and get experience teaching other classes as well? And that was really successful for my salon and strengthened that culture.

“As a Matrix educator, this was sort of my side hustle job. I flew under the radar for a couple of years until one day I ended up landing an industry magazine’s front cover. And then all of a sudden, everybody was like ‘Who is this Matrix Educator, Danielle Keasling?’”

OUR COVER STAR OF THIS ISSUE IS THE ONE AND ONLY DANIELLE KEASLING, OUR NEWEST SALONEVO COLUMNIST! FROM EDITORIAL STYLIST, PLATFORM ARTIST AND EDUCATOR TO LUXURY BRIDAL STYLIST, CELEBRITY STYLIST, EXTENSIONS EXPERT, COLORIST, MENTOR, AND COACH, THE LIST OF DANIELLE’S ROLES AND SPECIALTIES IS NEARLY ENDLESS. AND HER MAIN GOAL IN THIS INDUSTRY IS TO HELP ELEVATE HAIRDRESSING AND HELP STYLISTS GROW.

“I HAVE WORKED WITH CELEBRITIES, WORKED ON FILM SETS, AND STYLED FOR EDITORIAL. AND SO NOW, MY MAIN GOAL IS TO SHARE MY KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE TO HELP OTHER STYLISTS GET TO WHERE THEY WANT TO BE.”

From this point on, new opportunities started to open up for Danielle. Her background in editorial styling, and her knowledge of owning and running a salon, while also being an educator for Matrix helped her create a strong name for herself in the professional hairstyling world. But the next step was to become a platform educator.

Danielle explained: “I have always been comfortable behind the camera and behind the chair, but the idea of getting on a stage and becoming a platform artist really intimidated me. While I loved educating within salons, I never really felt comfortable speaking in front of large audiences. But with these new opportunities I was being given, I felt like this was a fear I was going to have to conquer.”

Once Danielle started getting on stage, however, everything started falling into place. She said: “I realized my love for helping stylists elevate themselves, achieve their goals, and conquer their fears, was much greater than my fear of being on stage. I have always taken the approach of stage work by going in with no ego, no gatekeeping, and just sharing every piece of knowledge and wisdom I had to help my students. I think that is what set me apart at the time.”

From there, Danielle moved up to become an Artistic Director for Matrix. And at that time, she was the only woman in the group. She said: “It was intimidating, but I said to myself, if I could get over all my other fears, I can get over this one too.”

It was around this time that Danielle started working as a guest artist for Great Lengths, working on campaigns and collections. After a few years, Danielle became promoted as Executive Creative Director for Great Lengths too. Danielle said: “Right from the beginning, I really believed strongly in Great Lengths’ ethos and the quality of their products. When working with brands, I have always been so

careful to only work with brands I truly believe in. With Great Lengths, I can be confident in creating and elevating my looks, while also being confident in the quality and the ethical process behind the products.”

Danielle also shared about being approached by her friend Nick Stenson, who told her about his plan to create a brand-neutral group of beauty professionals called the Ulta Beauty Pro Team and invited her to be a part of it. She said: “At the time, nobody was daring to pull artists from different brands onto the same stage. People thought, won’t egos clash? Won’t different brand artists compete for more stage time? So, when Nick introduced this idea, we all thought, how is this going to work?

“But I remember walking into our first Ulta Beauty Pro Team meeting together. I remember thinking, I wonder who is going to take the lead, who is going to have the biggest and loudest voice? But as soon as we all got together, it was all so seamless. Instead of being competitive, we were collaborative. We taught and encouraged each other. I have made some seriously amazing friendships and connections too.”

“WITH GREAT LENGTHS, I CAN BE CONFIDENT IN CREATING AND ELEVATING MY LOOKS, WHILE ALSO BEING CONFIDENT IN THE QUALITY AND THE ETHICAL PROCESS BEHIND THE PRODUCTS.”

The Ulta Beauty Pro Team has now evolved to be a group of some of the most well-known and admired professionals in the hair and beauty industry, with the aim of educating, inspiring, and elevating the industry and the professionals within it. Looking back on her career, Danielle said: “Wow, I took a totally different path than what I set off to do all those years ago. But now, my bank of experience is so rich. Today, I feel comfortable presenting at a sales meeting, talking about salon ownership, marketing and branding, and educating artists. I have been an employee and an employer. A mentee and a mentor. I have worked with celebrities, worked on film sets, and styled for editorial. And so now, my main goal is to share my knowledge and experience to help other stylists get to where they want to be.”

I asked Danielle to tell us a bit more about her consulting business, Hair Biz and Beyond. She said: “When the pandemic hit, and all events and tours were cancelled, we all had no idea how long it would last. But it was a great time for reflection and for professionals to think about what they really wanted out of their career, and where they want to go. At the time, I was already doing a bit of coaching and consulting, but I thought, why not really focus on it during this time that we all had? Hair Biz and Beyond started as a platform for stylists to learn how to get into editorial, how to put together a photoshoot, and start building their portfolio. But as it developed more and more, it turned into a full platform. It is all one-on-one personalized consulting and coaching for anyone in the beauty industry. We cover everything

from brand building to business consulting, building their social media and web presence, to teaching hair and beauty techniques and skills. We cover everything and anything.”

Not only has Danielle’s Hair Biz and Beyond team been nominated for team of the year, but one of her mentees, Caidy Brasure, has been nominated for two different NAHA categories.

Danielle said: “I am so incredibly proud of every one of my mentees from my platform. It absolutely fills my cup to hear about the success stories of people I have helped. They are the reason I rise and grind. When I saw Caidy’s name had been announced as a finalist, I was standing at my computer jumping up and down, cheering, I barely noticed my own name on the list.” 

“I REMEMBER WALKING INTO OUR FIRST ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM

MEETING. [...] IT WAS ALL SO SEAMLESS. INSTEAD OF BEING COMPETITIVE, WE WERE COLLABORATIVE. WE TAUGHT AND ENCOURAGED EACH OTHER.”

Hair// Danielle Keasling. Photographer// Richard Monsieurs. Makeup// Deney Adam, Dmitry Potapov.

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BRILLIANCE

When it comes to bridal, especially luxury bridal, Danielle is your go-to girl for insight, motivation, and inspiration. She gave her insight into the postCovid world of bridal.

Danielle said: “This recent wedding boom is proving that there are no rules when it comes to style in 2023.”

This is a great time of year to take notes for the trends of the year, as the latest styles are stepping off of the runway and onto the altar.

Danielle said: “Based on the exciting trends for New York Bridal Fashion week 2023, I expect to see the return of many beloved classic wedding hair trends, like effortless waves and sleek buns both high and low, but there are also some new, out-ofthe-box styles in my predictions.

“High updos are most definitely back but with a modern twist. We didn’t just see the ‘90s circle back around in streetwear, but we’re seeing it on the bridal side as well. From bubble sleeves to bows, celebrities and brides alike have recently adopted the iconic ‘90s bridal staple piece back and ontrend! Long live the ‘90s! Expect to see accessorized sleek high buns and snatched ponies making bridal bliss statements this year for hair. Side-swept curls are a timeless red carpet staple and continue to remain a bridal favorite. To give this trend a 2023 upgrade, add a pearl or rhinestone clip to the side opposite the curls. For an extra-glam effect, brushing out the curls diffuses their shape for a softer, more lived-in vibe that looks oh so effortless and modern.”

Buns all around are trending! Danielle explained: “It seemed one of the goals during Covid was to get that perfect peach as every personal trainer ditched

the super skinny routine for curves and shape. This is also true for 2023 bridal hair. Super sleek buns both high and low have a strong game. If your style is refined elegance, a sleek and architectural bun is the epitome of what you are looking for. This polished look is a statement look loved by minimalist and maximalist brides alike. This clean and fuss-free base offers a world of opportunity when it comes to styling with accessories and securing your veil into. You definitely cannot go wrong with beautiful buns this year (in more ways than one!)”.

New York Bridal Fashion week 2023 saw many designers favor the middle part regardless of the dress, Danielle explained. “The center part has always been a popular style choice for brides because it creates a beautiful balance and strong facial symmetry. Now in 2023, this wedding hair trend is getting a touch of old Hollywood by tucking the bangs back. A big pro of this new iteration on the standard slick down part? It draws the eyes to the face and highlights your features even more. For a 2023 cool-girl look, opt for a deep middle part with hair tucked behind the ears and a bit of texture through your ends. Don’t be afraid to show off your bobby pins either! Yes, that is still a trend!”

Hair// Danielle Keasling. Photography// Zoe Christou Welsh. Makeup// Abigail Wilson. Wardrobe// Coastal Bliss.

COURAGEOUS

In her latest collection, exclusively seen here in SalonEVO first, Danielle played with vibrant colors to create a striking editorial collection. I asked Danielle to tell us a bit about the inspiration behind this collection. She said: “In the industry, I am known more as an extension specialist and stylist, but I actually got into the industry as a colorist. During my salon life, I dove heavily into the world of color, and I thrived in color theory, formulation, and placement.

“Since then, I have had so many roles and done so many other things, that I think some people assume that I don’t do color. So, that’s what actually inspired me to do this collection, to go back to my roots and prove what I can create.

“With this collection, I wanted to show how vivid colors can be elevated to an editorial standard. My vision was to prove that fantasy colors can look expensive too, especially when you use high-quality products like Matrix Tonal Control and SoColor Cult.”

Danielle has such a strong and supportive network in this industry, that when she comes up with a vision, she always knows she has a team of incredibly talented makeup artists, photographers, and assistants to bring her vision to life.

Danielle said: “I was so lucky to have Deney Adam and Dmitry Potapov, both of whom I met through the Ulta Pro Team, helping with makeup that day.

I told them my concept and I had 100% trust in them to create something that complemented the hair. The makeup made such a statement without overpowering or distracting the hair.

“Then, of course, I had the insanely talented Richard Monsieurs there to photograph the collection.”

Danielle’s goal was to show how fashion colors have evolved. While they used to be more embraced by the DIY and punk scene, Danielle wanted to show that you can take fashion colors to the next level, and they can be worn by anyone. She said: “Hair color is a way that you can express yourself and give yourself a brand. I always use the analogy that you could wake up every day and put on a white t-shirt and a pair of jeans, but as long as your hair looks good, you will always look put together. Your hair is your crown, so why not let it shine and show who you are?”

I asked Danielle how she went about creating the looks for this collection. She said: “When you are working with models, often the reality is that you can’t permanently dye their whole head. So, this is why it is worth working with high-quality wigs, toppers, and extensions, such as the ones I used from Raquel Welch by HairUWear, and Great Lengths. It is so important to work with good quality, human hair products though so you can still have that natural and polished result.”

Danielle started by toning all the hair with Matrix Tonal Control to neutralize the tones and give her a cool base. Then she used Matrix SoColor Cult to paint her creative designs.

She said: “I was really inspired by colorist Angelo Seminara’s creative color placements. And so I used this collection to take myself out of my comfort zone and think of things from a different perspective. Throughout the whole process, I was challenging ideas like, why can’t these two colors go together? I really aimed to be more daring and embrace my creative side.” 

“MY VISION WAS TO PROVE THAT FANTASY COLORS CAN LOOK EXPENSIVE TOO, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU USE HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS LIKE MATRIX.”

ETHICS &

For Danielle, working with brands that are authentic, transparent, and sustainable is vital. She said: “To me, health, wellness, and sustainability are incredibly important. I also am aware that the choices I make as a professional, and the brands I choose to align myself with, can make an impact on the future of sustainability.

“I really have to believe in the product and in the brands I work with, and be proud to represent them. And the only way that is possible, is for these brands to be transparent in their processes and clear about their ethics and values.”

One of the things that a lot of people don’t realize about Great Lengths is that they are the only extensions brand in the world to have to obtain a B Corp certification. A B Corp Certification is a designation that is only given to businesses that meet the highest standards of performance, accountability, and transparency. It measures a company’s entire social and environmental impact.

“Being Indian Temple Hair, Great Lengths can trace their hair all the way back to the exact Temple it was donated to and is transparent about every single process it goes through until it gets to the salon. That is unprecedented. I have witnessed first-hand the care and thought put into the entire process to ensure that not only is the hair kept in the best condition possible, but it is making the smallest impact on the environment possible.”

One of the projects that Danielle has been putting a lot of focus on lately is the L’Oréal brand, Biolage’s rebrand. This year, Biolage Professional, a world leader in salon haircare since 1990, announced their commitment to a better and more sustainable future. Their iconic formulas are now certified as cruelty-free and vegan*, and their signature bottles are now made

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from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic**. The brand has been given the Leaping Bunny stamp of approval by Cruelty-Free International, a leading organization working to end animal testing.

Danielle has been working closely with the Biolage team and Luis Alvarez, Biolage’s Global Creative Director, to give a fresh new look to the brand. Danielle said: “With all that Biolage is doing to revamp their product line and make it more sustainable, we wanted to give it a new look that makes it sexy and fresh. We did the campaign collection shoot outside and it gives an editorial-inspired, natural, current result.

“Biolage is the third largest brand within the L’Oréal Professionnel Professional Products Division, but for a while, it became more perceived as a consumer brand. Now we are bringing it back to the professionals, not only with a new look but a new spirit. Bringing together high-quality ingredients, animal rights, and authenticity, it’s something professionals – especially those who care about sustainability – will want to have in their salons.”

Sustainability has become quite the buzzword and trend, but how can stylists and salon owners ensure they are working with brands that have actually committed to the cause?

Danielle said: “Consumers are getting a lot savvier and more informed when it comes to the products and brands they purchase. That’s why, we as professionals, need to be one step ahead to be informed. We need to be the experts for our clients and be there to recommend products that are the best for them, and for the earth. Educate yourself on what the different certifications mean, and do your research about the products and ingredients before you bring them into the salon. Be the expert your clients can trust. That is what will keep them coming back. •

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“WITH ALL THAT BIOLAGE IS DOING TO REVAMP THEIR PRODUCT LINE AND MAKE IT MORE SUSTAINABLE, WE WANTED TO GIVE IT A NEW LOOK THAT MAKES IT SEXY AND FRESH.”

COLLECTION CREATING THE OF THE CENTURY

AS YOU FLIP THROUGH EVO’S 100TH ISSUE, A LARGE PERCENTAGE OF THE INDUSTRY WILL BE GETTING READY FOR AMERICA’S BEAUTY SHOW 100TH ANNIVERSARY SHOW! AND THERE WAS NO OTHER TEAM OF ARTISTS BETTER TO CREATE THE CELEBRATORY COLLECTION THAN ULTA BEAUTY’S PRO AND DESIGN TEAM. WE SPOKE TO MEMBERS OF THE TEAM TO HEAR ALL ABOUT IT!

First, I asked Nick Stenson, the leader of the Ulta Beauty Pro Team and Creative Director for the collection, and Anna Manukyan, Ulta Beauty’s Head of Education and Creative, to tell us about the experience of getting to work with ABS on their 100th-anniversary collection.

Nick said: “It has been an honor to be the creative director for the collection featured to celebrate ABS's 100th anniversary. Collaborating with my Ulta Beauty Team alongside the ABS team is always an amazing opportunity.”

Anna added: “It was truly an honor to be a part of such a historical event celebrating achievements of the past while shaping the future.”

Nick continued: “Ulta Beauty and ABS have one major common goal, to inspire beauty enthusiasts and help provide amazing education and career opportunities to thousands of beauty professionals across the country.”

So, let’s talk about the creation of the collection

What was the inspiration behind these looks?

Nick said: “We want anyone who looks at the images to see the power of beauty. Celebrating 100 years and the next 100 years, a bit of glam, with a twist of a futuristic vibe.”

For this collection, Nick and Anna got to work with the whole Ulta Beauty Pro Team, along with several members of the Ulta Beauty Design team too. Nick said: “My favorite time to collaborate with the Ulta Beauty Pro Team is for a photo shoot. It's where we can come together and share all of our creative ideas with no limitations and then together build a story and vision. From there the fun is helping each other ensure that our collective vision is brought to life in a way that will inspire the industry.”

Anna added: “The collaboration and unique skillset each team member brings, is like a symphony!”

At Ulta Beauty, the goal is always to celebrate beauty, all forms of beauty. And that shines through in this collection. Nick said: “To be a true collection, it needs to be a celebration of all hair types. It needs to be something that speaks to everyone and inspires all. That was our goal with this collection and as a team, it is our goal with every collection we create.”

Anna agreed: “Celebrating beauty in all forms is at the top of mind in everything that we do, diversity in hair, talent and lived-in experiences are a reflection

of the culture and priorities for us at Ulta Beauty.”

We also had the pleasure of speaking to the members of the Ulta Beauty Pro Team, Sonya Dove, Sean Godard, Danielle Keasling, David Lopez, Michelle O’Connor, and Deney Adam about their experience working on this shoot.

We asked the team about their favorite part of working on collections like this with the whole Pro Team.

Sean said: “My favorite part about coming together is seeing everyone’s vision during the creative process and collaborating on how we will bring it all to life. It’s truly a whole team effort.”

Agreeing, Michelle said: “My favorite part about working on collections like this is the fact that it’s collaborative. Every artist at some point has their hands in each look and it lends so much to the story we are all trying to tell with hair.”

David said his favorite part about the collection was: “The chance to create and express a message through hair. It’s why so many of us started doing this in the first place!”

And Deney added: “This collection is by far one of my favorite collections, from the preparation to the execution of how our minds came together to create this beautiful, surreal work of art. The makeup was a no-brainer to go timeless and classic but yet with all the current flares to keep it modern. We went soft and gentle, but not unnoticed.” 

“A TRUE COLLECTION NEEDS TO BE A CELEBRATION OF ALL HAIR TYPES. IT NEEDS TO BE SOMETHING THAT SPEAKS TO EVERYONE AND INSPIRES ALL. THAT WAS OUR GOAL WITH THIS COLLECTION AND AS A TEAM, IT IS OUR GOAL WITH EVERY COLLECTION WE CREATE.”

NICK STENSON

How did the team come together to bring the collection to life?

Sean explained: “We first start by brainstorming all our ideas and then pulling together the inspirations for the final looks that would create a string collection. Then we lean on each other’s expertise on who would be best to lead each look and begin the creative process of practice for the look and create any pieces that might be needed for the look. Then when we get on set, we all tend to oversee the final shots and add constructive feedback to help align all the shots to be cohesive and tell the story.”

David added: “The Pro Team's creative process really encourages all of us to express our unique talents and abilities. Some of us are great at thinking about the “big picture” and overall vision and some of us are superstars at the logistical details of bringing a style to life. We tend to manage styles that are best suited to our capabilities and style strengths but that doesn’t mean we don’t share ideas or add final tweaks. It all feels very collaborative and synergistic.”

As with any creative, collaborative, highstakes project, there are always challenges and highlights. I asked the team what they were.

Sonya said: “The hardest part is choosing one idea to go ahead and execute. When we collaborate there are so many ideas floating around in the conversation, which always makes it difficult to choose. Having one leader, Nick Stenson always keeps us all on track when needed.”

Michelle said: “The most fun is the day of the shoot. We always have some dramatic moment, such as a look not coming together or something that we envisioned looking like a complete disaster until we all eventually figure it out. This usually ends in raucous laughter, and a story we revisit many times later!”

What was it like having members of the Ulta Beauty Design team assisting? Does the team like getting the opportunity to share their wisdom with them?

Danielle said: “I am wildly obsessed with growing hairstylists, so YES! Nothing fills my cup up more than to watch the team grow and share everything and anything with them. It's not only about growing their skill set but about growing their brand, their confidence, and business mindset.”

We asked a couple of the assistants to tell us about their experience of being part of the shoot.

Hayley Valadez said: “Working with the Ulta Beauty Pro Team on this collection and many others is always a welcomed challenge because it pushes us as a team to take a step back and collaborate to celebrate each other's strengths as we support the outcome to be a cohesive and thoughtful representation of all types of beauty. We're creating something much larger than ourselves and that is the most exciting part!”

Gilad Goldstein said his highlight was getting to see how editorials come together. He said: “There are so many elements that happen behind the scenes to create eye-catching and editorial images; so I love seeing how the Pro Team works

with hair and props unexpectedly to create exciting looks for the camera!”

Beto Sanchez said: “I loved how we all came together to imagine and execute concepts about what would beauty look like 100 years from now. I believe we will have a lot fewer boundaries, fewer labels, and a lot more options for people that see beauty in a wider spectrum than what we do now.”

And Laura Gunter added: “I love getting inspired for my own collections, seeing how the team goes from idea to execution helps me see all the possibilities.”

What was your biggest takeaway from the experience?

Reva Haga said: “Working alongside David Lopez has taught me the importance of prepping the hair and being intentional with product usage. Layering in products and setting the hair made styling for the shoot effortless.”

Anthony Negron said his takeaway was to, “Make sure to always over prepare and pack extra tools and accessories. This can make a look go to the next level.”

Takeyra Shipps said: “Understanding the importance of how you can create looks with just about anything was my big thing! Watching our team create one look by bunching two wigs to build the model's shape, was completely mindblowing. When you think too technical - this is for this and that is for that - you don't give yourself permission to create wonderful things!” •

“IT WAS TRULY AN HONOR TO BE A PART OF SUCH A HISTORICAL EVENT CELEBRATING ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE PAST WHILE SHAPING THE FUTURE.”

ANNA MANUKYAN

WE’VE ALL HEARD THE TERM ‘TIME IS MONEY’, WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING OUR MONEY WORK FOR US, THAT TERM TAKES ON A VERY DIFFERENT MEANING. THE TERM ‘INVESTMENT’ MEANS SOMETHING THAT IS WORTH BUYING BECAUSE IT MAY BE PROFITABLE OR USEFUL IN THE FUTURE… EASY, RIGHT? WELL, AS IT TURNS OUT, IT’S NOT ALWAYS SO. BEFORE MAKING ANY INVESTMENT, MAKE SURE YOU ASK THESE KEY QUESTIONS:

FINANCE

Invest like a Pro TheBeautyof

1. What Is My Intention For This Money?

Understanding whether your goals are short-term (five to ten years) or long term (retirement savings) will shape very different approaches.

If you invest in stock or mutual funds through a brokerage account, you’ll be able to withdraw that money without penalties at any time you wish. However, if you are planning for retirement and utilizing a 401k or IRA, there are penalties associated with using that money prior to age 59½.

2. What Is The Risk Factor Associated With This Investment?

Stocks and or a new investment category like crypto currency have no guaranteed return and are considered high risk. While you can potentially make a lot of money quickly, you can also potentially lose everything quickly. Bonds or fixed income instruments will guarantee a return, but typically have slower rates of growth. Following the S&P 500 can be a good way of investing in a stock portfolio that tends to yield high results. Knowing your risk tolerance and where you are in life will guide your conversation.

3. What Is The Expected Rate Of Return?

This is a really important area to understand and question to ask before investing. What do you expect to earn on this money annually? How long will it take your money to double? Is this a compounding account?

4. What Are The Tax Implications Of This Investment?

Most long-term investments like a traditional IRA or 401k will be tax-deferred, meaning you pay taxes when withdrawing the money. For a Roth IRA, you pay taxes now, and anything invested would be yours tax-free later. There are benefits involved in both, and your CPA or financial advisor can help you identify the best options for your current situation.

Some terms to know: Stocks

Ownership of shares in a company.

Bond

A bond could be thought of as an I.O.U. between the lender and borrower. Bonds are used by companies, municipalities, states, and sovereign governments to finance projects and operations.

Mutual Fund

A mutual fund is a type of investment vehicle consisting of a portfolio of stocks, bonds, or other securities. Mutual funds provide diversification and have a higher degree of risk protection built in. (Fun fact most 401ks are mutual funds).

Certificate of Deposit (CD)

A certificate of deposit (CD) is a savings product that earns interest on a lump sum for a fixed period of time. CDs differ from savings accounts because the money must remain untouched for the entirety of their term or risk penalty fees or lost interest. Time commitments range from six months to five years and interest rates are currently at a 20 year high!

Compound Interest

Compound interest accrues and is added to the accumulated interest of previous periods; it includes interest on interest. This is how money grows money!

Dollar Cost Averaging

The practice of investing a fixed dollar amount on a monthly basis vs annual lump sum regardless of price.

We spend our lives taking care of others, it’s time learn to take care of our future selves!

WITH ANNA MANUKYAN

REPAIR DEEP

The OLAPLEX Stand Alone Treatment™ is an in-salon service that gives dramatic results in as little as 15 minutes, an entire head of hair can be transformed! OLAPLEX Nº.1 Bond Multiplier and Nº.2 Bond Perfector work from the inside out to strengthen and repair for stronger, healthier hair. OLAPLEX Stand Alone Treatment™ is the perfect choice for anyone looking to transform their hair like never before.

Disulfide bonds are present in every layer of your hair, from the cuticle to the cortex and medulla. OLAPLEX patented Bond Building Technology is designed to help repair the internal structure of your hair by relinking the disulfide bonds. Properly paired bonds give the hair its strength and structure. By re-linking these broken bonds, OLAPLEX helps to strengthen your hair from the inside out.

As we know, disulfide bonds are broken all the time by everyday stresses, resulting in damage, even in virgin, low maintenance hair. Damage is an issue for everyone, but fortunately stronger, healthier-looking hair is available to everyone with OLAPLEX!

If a client comes into your chair and complains of the signs of damage (such as breakage, frizz, dullness and overall loss of manageability, just to name a few), a quick way to get the hair back on track is to give a Stand Alone Treatment™. So, how is this treatment done?

First, take your client to the shampoo bowl and make them comfortable. Mix 1/2 oz of OLAPLEX Nº.1 and 3 oz of water in an applicator bottle. Apply this solution to the hair* and allow to sit for five minutes. Do not rinse. After five minutes, take a generous amount of OLAPLEX Nº.2 and apply it directly over the top of the saturated hair. Allow this to sit for 10 to 15 minutes. After this, rinse, shampoo, and either condition or apply any other subsequent treatments. For best results, we suggest shampooing with OLAPLEX Nº.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo

You may condition with OLAPLEX Nº.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner, or for deeper moisture, use OLAPLEX 4-In-1 Moisture Mask. If protein is needed, you may use the professional protein treatment of your personal preference.

From here, you can proceed with the rest of your services. Prepare yourself for your client’s mind to be blown when they see and feel their hair afterwards!

If you haven’t yet taken the plunge and purchased a full OLAPLEX kit just yet, you can purchase pre-measured Stand Alone Treatment™ packets to see the miraculous effects for yourself! These packets are available wherever you purchase your professional OLAPLEX products, including the pro app and website. Share your results! When you

perform your Stand Alone Treatment™, feel free to post photos on your social channels or share your results in the OLAPLEX Users Facebook Group.

*If the hair is relatively clean, you can apply the solution directly to dry hair. If the hair has product on it or is dirty, it may be a good idea to clarify first. We suggest OLAPLEX Nº.4C Bond Maintenance

Clarifying Shampoo in this instance. If the hair has a mineral or product buildup (or if you suspect this may be the case), a chelating treatment using OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment would be a great choice.

OLAPLEX IS KNOWN FOR ITS INCREDIBLE RESULTS AND TRANSFORMATIONS WHEN USED IN CHEMICAL SERVICES, BUT DID YOU KNOW THERE IS ALSO AN INCREDIBLE OLAPLEX SERVICE THAT CAN BE PERFORMED ALL ON ITS OWN?

“PREPARE YOURSELF FOR YOUR CLIENT’S MIND TO BE BLOWN WHEN THEY SEE AND FEEL THEIR HAIR AFTERWARDS! IF YOU HAVEN’T YET TAKEN THE PLUNGE AND PURCHASED A FULL OLAPLEX KIT JUST YET, YOU CAN PURCHASE PRE-MEASURED STAND ALONE TREATMENT™ PACKETS TO SEE THE MIRACULOUS EFFECTS FOR YOURSELF!”

PROFESSIONAL BOND

BRAND

Bridal Spring

BRIDAL SEASON IS HERE! IT'S AS FULFILLING AS IT IS STRESSFUL, BUT THE SMILES ON CLIENTS FACES AFTER THEY'VE HAD THEIR TREATMENTS MAKES ALL THE HARD WORK WORTH IT. IN THE NEXT FEW PAGES, OUR EXPERTS SAY HOW TO DELIVER THE BEST RESULTS FOR EVERY BRIDE.

Hair// Danielle Keasling. Photography// Zoe Christou Welsh. Makeup// Abigail Wilson. Wardrobe// Coastal Bliss.

elegant Elevated&

LARA KAY IS THE AWARD-WINNING CELEBRITY

HAIRSTYLIST AND EXTENSIONS EDUCATOR BEHIND BRIDAL SALON, STUDIO KAY IN GLENDALE,

SHE’S BELLAMI HAIR PROFESSIONAL’S MASTER EDUCATOR AND TOLD US HOW TO USE EXTENSIONS TO ELEVATE BRIDAL STYLES.

You won’t believe how Lara got into the world of hair… “I was a basketball player and the only way I could transfer to a scholarship school was if I took a construction or cosmetology course… so I chose cosmetology!” Her friends at school were looking for prom ‘dos and graduation styles, so: “I had my license and a full client list by the time I was 18!”

LA’s favorite bridal hair artist started exploring bridal styling on YouTube. When she hit 25-yearsold, the hair expert took her first hair styling class and discovered her passion. “I’m obsessed with bridal eras. When I’m brainstorming with my clients, I’ll look at every decade, from the 1920s to the 2010s. This lets me design a style that not only suits the bride’s personality (and her wedding dress!) but is also timeless. This means she won’t look back on her wedding pictures in 10 years and cringe.”

CA.

Creating the perfect bridal look is a team effort: “Your client shows you what they want and you as the professional show them what is possible. Let’s take JLo’s hair for a recent Dolce and Gabbana shoot I did with her – she only had an hour on set so was able to hold a soft, glistening look. But a bride needs her style to last all day.” So, it’s about managing expectations? “Yes! For example, if an editorial shoot shows a jumbo clip in the hair, that’s not realistic for all-day bridal wear. So, we try to come up with different methods and ways to incorporate the soft look into something sturdier.” Lara laughed, “For my Middle Eastern clients, their weddings will start at like 10am and continue until the next morning, so they need to last!”

Lara works closely with BELLAMI Hair Professional , using this most recognized hair extension brand in the world to enliven her bridal work. She was their first ever Master Educator and worked very closely with them to develop their professional line. Lara had explained that she doesn’t feel comfortable taking big brand partnerships or signing into long term deals because she believes in being totally honest with her community. That’s why her close partnerships with BELLAMI over the years have meant so much. She told us more: “If you look in my bridal kit, I have every single brand under the sun! But one that always remains is BELLAMI. Their extensions are second to none.”

What does she like most about BELLAMI?

“Their professional line is double drawn, which makes them a lot thicker. Their clip-ins are really versatile as well. They have silk seam, regular clips, ponytail extensions… I like the flexibility of being able to use either the flat clips for a seamless look or add volume with the traditional clips. BELLAMI just gives that extra versatility that works for all textures. With other brands, they only have, say 100-gram hair and don’t have the option of silk or a volume weft etc. BELLAMI has all of that, from 100 grams up to 350 and more.” 

“MY BRIDAL KIT FEATURES EVERY BRAND UNDER THE SUN! BUT ONE THAT ALWAYS REMAINS IS BELLAMI. THEIR EXTENSIONS ARE SECOND TO NONE.”

We wanted to know how stylists can use extensions to inject life into bridal. She told us: “Extensions can add triple volume to the hair. For my updos, I’ll use minimum three pieces of four-inch-wide extensions and wrap them around the ponytail. Doing a sleek bun on natural hair versus intertwining it with extensions brings entirely different results. Again, it's all based on the hair being able to last all day; through every dance, every tear she cries… Extensions give that security.”

What tools can’t Lara live without? “My T3 Curling Iron is my ride or die. I also cannot work without my CHI Lava Pro Hair Dryer. It’s lightweight and heat comes through ceramic cages as opposed to metal, which means hair doesn’t burn or singe under the heat – you get hotter styles, through higher speeds at lower settings. Any tool I can use to avoid damaging my client’s hair, I’ll invest in.”

What about Lara’s essential products? “Flexible hold hair spray is a must. I love Sebastian Pro’s Zero Gravity Light Hairspray. I also start every client with the DESIGNME Hair HOLD.ME ThreeWay Hair Spray, because its strong hold is also brushable.”

We asked Lara for one last piece of advice. What should every bride carry in their clutch? “I always have a mini Leyla Milani Miracle Brush in my clutch. It’s soft and perfect for taming flyaways or brushing out a ponytail. Also a jewellery box of bobby pins and open bobby pins for veils and hair pieces. And a travel sized shine spray will maintain that fresh, clean look!” •

Lara is @larackay on Instagram.

a style fOr everyBride

Lara’s tips for mastering every personality

Boho Bride

“I use a lot of texture spray and dry shampoo to hold classic boho loose waves – whether they frame the face in a braided updo or long down style. I use the R+Co BADLANDS Dry Shampoo Paste in place of hair spray and brush it out before they leave. Boho brides absolutely cannot touch their hair throughout the day! It’ll get looser and looser and look beautiful, but if they touch it, it’ll end up looking like a blowout.”

Glam Bride

“I tell my glam brides to wash their hair the night before. This is because hair that is slightly dirty is a lot easier to work into grand, glam dos. I use the Sam Villa TEXTUR® Professional Texturizing Iron to add texture around the roots for natural volume and then I'll start roller curling it. I create the Hollywood glam waves by using the KYK Magic Dust Volume Powder. And then creating updos from there is easy.”

Minimalist Bride

“Minimalist brides are allowed to wash their hair on the morning of. Often, minimalist brides are looking for the natural look, so I'll use a lot less product. I'll blow out their hair using a paddle brush instead of a round brush to keep it sleek – really working with what they have to create that chic, all-natural style. Then I’ll style fully with Color Wow’s One-Minute Transformation Styling Cream

It has natural shine that lasts all day.”

“

BELLAMI GIVES EXTRA VERSATILITY THAT WORKS FOR ALL TEXTURES WITH SILK SEAMS, REGULAR CLIPS, PONYTAIL EXTENSIONS… NO OTHER EXTENSIONS BRAND OFFERS THAT KIND OF VERSATILITY.”

Boho Bridal

THEIR BIG DAY. SHE’S PART OF THE BEHIND THE CHAIR TEAMS AND TOLD US HOW TO MASTER THE UPDO.

The brain behind Updos by Jocelyn qualified in 2009 after her mother encouraged her to join the cosmetology program at high school. What started as something she thought ‘looked like fun’ has now transformed into a thriving independent bridal business that gives brides, bridesmaids, and wedding parties gorgeous boho-inspired updos that not only look stunning but blend the classic with the contemporary to create something truly unique. We asked why Jocelyn chose to move into bridal? “I never really enjoyed salon life and after being a stay at home mom for my gorgeous daughters for about seven years, I decided to start doing hair for my nearest and dearest. I quickly developed a passion, so ordered myself a mannequin to work on and launched my Instagram and started sharing my work.” And her success has snowballed since then. Now, Joelyn spends her time educating others as well as making bride’s hair dreams come true. What led Jocelyn to specializing in updos? “It’s the beauty of them! I still remember getting my first updo as a little girl when I was a flower girl, and how special it made me feel to get my hair styled. I find so much joy when my clients look in the mirror for the big reveal. I love making them feel that

same beauty I felt all those years ago!”

Jocelyn uses an array of tools to create her gorgeous updos, which clients have described as ‘captivating’. The talented stylist told us the ins and outs of her toolkit – as well as sharing the love for one of her favorite brands, Aquage Here’s what she said: “I have so many favorites! I always say in my classes that if I had to pick five products to have with me at work, I would choose a Thermal Setting Spray, Volumizing Powder, Smoothing Cream, Wax Spray, and Finishing Spray.

“In terms of brands, I always have to have my favorite BaBylissPRO Classic Hair Conical Wand and BaBylissPRO Spectrum Mini Crimper. I also can’t live without my Scunci Topsytail tools – my students always say that learning how to use one was one of their biggest takeaways from my classes!

“Aquage is all around a great brand to work with! Their products are effective, they have a great variety, and I love the steps they’ve taken to reduce their environmental and carbon footprint. My three favorite products would be the Finishing Spray, Spray Wax and Beyond Shine Spray. You will always be able to find those three

products in my kit!”

It’s true that extensions are having their spotlight right now. Jocelyn told us how bridal stylists can use extensions to enhance updos for their special day. “Using extensions is a game changer in styling! I use them on about 75% of my brides. Using them can open up endless possibilities of styles to your brides that would otherwise be impossible to achieve. Having that extra hair to work with allows me to have way more freedom to express my creativity within a style, and my brides are usually always on board to do whatever it takes to achieve their dream look.”

How can pros use hair accessories to enhance an updo for the big day? “Accessories are a great way to show off personality, and using them can give that perfect finishing touch to wow your client! I think they can be especially helpful on simpler styles to give that extra detail / focal point.

“There are such a huge variety of accessories to choose from, so it can be helpful to have a few on hand that your brides can try on to sample at their hair trial.”

Jocelyn finished our conversation by sharing some essential tips for any readers looking to specialize in bridal. She said:

1. Master The Mannequin

Purchase a good quality mannequin to practice your styles on at home. There’s nothing like having consistent practice without the pressure of a paying customer watching your every move.

2. Never Stop Learning

There is an abundance of education available on bridal styling now like never before! When I haven’t learned something new lately, I find myself feeling uninspired.

3. Photos Photos Photos

Photograph all your work so you can learn from mistakes and see your progress. Learn how to take better photos along the way and advertise to your community on Instagram. Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there and tell the world that this is where your heart shines!

JOCELYN EMERSON IS A BOHO BRIDAL STYLIST AND EDUCATOR OPERATING OUT OF CLEVELAND, OHIO, TO BRING BRIDES THE MOST UNIQUE LOOKS FOR

“

AQUAGE IS ALL AROUND A GREAT BRAND TO WORK WITH! THEIR PRODUCTS ARE EFFECTIVE, THEY HAVE A GREAT VARIETY, AND I LOVE THE STEPS THEY’VE TAKEN TO REDUCE THEIR ENVIRONMENTAL AND CARBON FOOTPRINT.”

ultimate bridalBeauty

MCKENZIE TURLEY

Want to hear some staggering statistics that directly apply to you as a professional? Here goes… 2.3 million couples get married every year in the United States alone. Multiply that number to represent weddings across the world and you have yourself an accumulative 10-figure profitable industry that you, as a hairstylist, have the opportunity to take a piece of! Do I have your attention? Good!

As a professional behind the chair, we have the opportunity to market ourselves any way we choose. There are many different areas we can specialize in, and to take part in the wedding industry, offering hair extensions is a massive benefit.

Those Pinterest inspo’ pics that your guests are showing you for their wedding days? They’re built with extensions. The long flowing waves under the veil? They’re extensions. The stunning silhouette of a bride with an intricate braid cascading down her back? You guessed it – extensions.

Hair extensions can be used to fill in the gaps where your guest’s hair may be lacking. One row of weft extensions can add fullness and two to three rows can add length and volume. With the right install method, hair extensions will not have limitations in styling either; they’ll only invigorate the style. Romantic braids and sleek updos are all possible with extensions, and sometimes are ONLY possible by adding extra hair to work with!

Brides often want to freshen their color and if they are coming to you with a compromised canvas, extensions may be the only solution to add that extra ‘oomph’. You can enhance their existing color and easily brighten the ends by adding extensions. If a bride wants to change their color, but after consultation you realize she has months of session color work ahead, and her wedding is in weeks, offering extensions as a solution that benefits both the bride and you as the stylist. The bride gets her desired look, and you don’t have to turn away a high

If you do have a potential bride in your chair, the best time to install a new set of extensions is about 10 weeks out from the wedding. This way, she can experience the extensions long enough to know how to care for them. You can work out the kinks together and have time to adjust placement or anything else that needs to be addressed before the big day. They’ll be wearing this hairdo all day and night, so you want to make sure they’re comfortable.

The guest can receive one reinstall about two weeks before the wedding, and you can move forward with the trial styling at that point. Installing the extensions this early will ensure that there is minimal stress on both you and bride as you both have plenty of time to get comfortable with the final look’s styling and care.

Once the special day has come and gone, your job as her extension specialist is most definitely not over! The regimen for caring for her extensions during her honeymoon is of the utmost importance. I have seen brides returning from their coastal dream honeymoon with their extensions completely matted and their natural hair facing tragic consequences!

As a professional, make sure you’re equipping your guest with the right knowledge to make their honeymoon a great experience where their hair is not a major concern. She needs to have the correct extension-friendly products and luxury hair care line Goldie Locks provides a beautiful travel-sized bundle that is perfect for sending your brides off with.

What is the best advice that can be given for styling their extensions before they hit the beach during their romantic getaway? I always recommend that they rinse their hair first with tap water and generously apply a leave-in conditioner. Gather hair into a low but secure ponytail and use nylon elastics to create a bubble-style braid. With this style however, the goal is to keep the hair secured without any ability to loosen with the ebb and flow of the water. So, keeping it sleek without ‘bubbles’ is the end goal.

Once the beach escapade is over, washing with an extension-safe and extremely hydrating shampoo is a must. Follow up with a deep conditioning mask and extension-friendly aftercare such as Goldie Locks

Leave-In Detangler and Signature Serum, and your bride’s experience with extensions will continue to be a positive one!

McKenzie is on Instagram as @hair.extensions.queen. You can keep updated with her incredible extensions brand, Invisible Bead Extensions® (also known as IBE®) by following @invisiblebeadextensions. Intrigued by the Goldie Locks range of luxury hair care and hair growth supplements? Find them as @getgoldielocks Finally, visit invisiblebeadextensions.com for all your IBE education needs.

MCKENZIE TURLEY IS THE WOMAN BEHIND EXTENSIONS BRAND, INVISIBLE BEAD EXTENSIONS . SHE’S ALSO AN EDUCATOR, SALON OWNER AND FOUNDER OF HAIR CARE RANGE, GOLDIE LOCKS. WE’RE SO EXCITED TO SAY THAT THIS BUSINESS POWERHOUSE IS OUR NEWEST COLUMNIST! MCKENZIE WILL BE SHARING EXPERT EXTENSIONS ADVICE EVERY ISSUE TO KEEP YOU ON TOP OF YOUR EXTENSIONS GAME. THIS MONTH, SHE TAKES ON BRIDAL.

fROm The Red caRpeT to the aisle

SINCE 2015, SYDNEY STAEHLE HAS REFINED HER SKILLS IN COLOR, CUTTING, STYLING, EXTENSIONS, AND MAKEUP. NOW A GLOBALLY CELEBRATED PRO STYLIST, SHE’S WORKED WITH CELEBRITIES AND BECOME LA’S GOTO FOR BRIDAL HAIR. WE SPOKE ABOUT BRIDAL TRENDS AND HOW TO DELIVER THE BEST FOR EVERY BRIDE.

We launched straight into talking about trends. These are the styles Sydney sees for 2023: “Classic, elegant, and sleek. I feel like brides are leaning towards the timeless look, which I love. Wedding hair is moving away from very done up, romantic, and overly frilled looks. You want your bride to look back in 10 years and still love the decisions they made. Soft waves, clean half up half downs, snatched buns; these are all over the place right now. As hair color has evolved into a more lived-in look, so has hairstyling.” Who doesn’t love a little behind the scenes? Sydney told us firstly, what her favourite styling products are for the big day, and then what her go-to tools are for styling updos, down styles and half up/half downs. Here’s more…

“My go-to tools for an updo and half up half down will always include a Hot Tools One Inch Marcel Curling Iron, my bobby pin kit (pro tip: I have every size, type, and color in a tackle box… trust me, it’s worth it!), teasing comb, my Mason Pearson Brush (or similar boar bristle brush), and no-crease clips for the hairline. A bungee cord roll (for jewelry) can execute a secure and snatched look. For brides wanting an all down style, I use everything listed above in addition to: velcro rollers to set the hairline, larger barrel (1 1/2 to 1 1/4 in.) Marcel Iron, and alligator setting clips.” Sydney continued: “My top three products are Schwarzkopf got2b Glued Gel This adds shine and holds sleek looks together. I also love my Authentic Beauty Concept Strong Hold Hairspray; it’s not too heavy or sticky but will set the look to ensure it lasts, whilst still looking organic.”

Lastly: “My holy grail of styling is the Leonor Greyl Éclat Naturel Styling Cream. This will help polish off and tame flyaways without being too heavy. I go through so much of this for every wedding – it’s such a game changer!” We wondered, is a different tool kit in order if Sydney is adding hair accessories? Between veils, tiaras, or flower crowns. She revealed: “I have a very large suitcase that has everything, from the ‘just in case’ stuff to the ‘maybe’ stuff, and the necessities. I always have accessories in my kit just in case someone needs something. Most brides

will have their accessories beforehand but it’s always good to be prepared!”

Sydney told us how pros can elevate the classic bridal looks for modern day, taking editorial and avant-garde trends from the catwalks and diluting them down for the classic, timeless bride. “I think the best way to execute these Pinterest, Instagram, model/fashion show type of looks is to over communicate. Dive into all the details; the good the bad, the realistic versus unrealistic expectations. For example, brides might not realise that a look requires

extensions. So, are they willing to spend money on a good set? At the end of the day, we’re the professionals yes, but we’re not miracle workers. Communicating to an almost annoying level will get you and your client to the desired look without any stress. Also be aware of your boundaries and skills. Go out of your comfort zone, give advice on what will complement clients, and remember to have fun! What we do and give to clients is all out of love, and everyone is different, so enjoy the now and be present. Happy styling!” Sydney is @sydstaehle on IG.

“SOFT WAVES, CLEAN HALF UP HALF DOWNS, SNATCHED BUNS...THESE ARE THE HOT TRENDS RIGHT NOW.”

The “i do” To-do list Eyelash Extensions

Eyelash extensions are a great way to make your bride’s eyes pop in her pictures, and they mean she won’t have to worry about eyelash glue unsticking halfway through the ceremony – nightmare!

Lash expert Shannon Renee (@theskinfairyus) shared her tips for brides.

How long before the big day should brides book in?

“I recommend that brides get a mandatory test patch done before they book their wedding eyelash extension appointment. This should be done at least two months before their big day – this is so we can rule out any future reactions to cyanoacrylate (an allergy to the main ingredient in eyelash extension adhesive). If all goes well after the test patch, two to three days before their wedding day is great so that the bride has a perfectly fresh set, and she

can enjoy a relaxing lash nap between all the prewedding preparations.”

How can clients maintain their lashes throughout their honeymoon, especially if they are in the sand and sea?

“The wonderful part about having NovaLash eyelash extensions is that they are 100% waterproof, 100% oil-proof, and 100% life-proof! Any bride with NovaLash eyelash extensions will have no stress when enjoying the beach, pool, and other fun activities on their honeymoon! ”

Lashes for the Classic Bride

“The classic bride wants something elegant, effortless, and manageable while accentuating her natural beauty. I would recommend a beautiful classic set of eyelash extensions which involves

Tanning

Every bride wants that bridal glow, but we can’t all live in Hawaii all year around, and with the dangers associated with tanning beds, that’s not always an option either. But luckily, with the skill of spray tanning artists, brides can obtain that warm glow even in the dead of winter.

one eyelash extension to one natural lash or a light hybrid set, which involves a mix of classic extensions and light volume fans (usually two to three eyelash extensions to one natural eyelash).”

Lashes for the Glam Bride

“For the glam bride, she wants to look alluring, sultry, and well... glamorous! After a sufficient consultation to assure her natural lashes are healthy enough for volume, our glam bride will either want an American Volume set (NovaLash’s signature volume technique that includes three to six handmade volume fans to one natural eyelash) or a London Volume set (better known as mega volume, this includes a mixture of American Volume lashes and London Volume fans that go up to 15D).

weeks prior to the wedding tan. This allows enough time for the trial tan to be fully exfoliated off before the wedding day.

REMI CACHET SUPER STYLIST, OWNER OF ASH STUDIOS

Cassie from LUXE Sunless Studio in Oconomowoc, WI, shared everything you and your brides need to know!

What are the benefits for brides to get a spray tan over the other options out there?

“The biggest reason brides come in is to get a nice glow so they have some color and don’t blend in with their white dresses. The second reason people come in is to even out tan lines.

The benefits of a spray tan are that they are quick and easy, you only need one session, and when the correct solution is used your tan can last 10-14 days!”

When should the bride be booking in?

“Trials should be booked at least two to three

“We always recommend booking the wedding day tan two days prior to the wedding for the best results. This allows the bride to be ready for rehearsal as well. A sunless tan will also continue to develop for a full 24 hours and be PERFECT on day two. If proper prep and aftercare instructions are followed, tans should last 10-14 days!”

The best brands for bridal tans?

“We use a variety of solutions. All tans are customized to each individual client, so we mix and match solutions to get the best result.

“As for the machine we use an Apollo – most machines will get you the same results, I just prefer this brand of machine. 80% of the way a spray tan turns out is on the client and how well they prep. 20% is on the spray tan artist to know how solutions work, which solutions to select, and how to properly spray a client.”

MOST BRIDES HAVE QUITE THE CHECKLIST TO COMPLETE BEFORE THE BIG DAY. WHILE HAIR AND MAKEUP USUALLY HAPPEN ON THE DAY OF, THERE ARE MANY BEAUTY SERVICES SUCH AS LASH EXTENSIONS, SPRAY TANS, AND BRIDAL NAILS THAT CLIENTS WILL WANT, NOT JUST FOR THE BIG DAY, BUT THE HONEYMOON TOO!

Season 5 episode 50// Say Yes To The Dress Atlanta With Monte Durham @therealmontedurham

BY COREY GRAY AND TONY STUART

THE HAIRDUSTRY – YOUR DAY OFF PODCAST OFFERS HAIR PROFESSIONALS THE CHANCE TO KICK BACK AND LISTEN TO THE ADVICE AND BACKSTORY OF MANY OF THE INDUSTRY’S GREATEST NAMES AND ALSO THE NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK – EACH ONE HELPING TO MAKE THE HAIR INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE… AS HOSTS COREY GRAY AND TONY STUART SAY ONE PODCAST AT A TIME.

In season five we spoke to Monte Durham , who is the fashion director on ‘ Say Yes To The Dress’ as well as being the owner of Salon Monte, Atlanta, GA.

Monte’s desire to be a hairdresser started when he was 30 years old and he got into fashion merchandising as a personal shopper.

Monte found that most of his clients had two complaints: they could not find anybody to take their clothes in and alter them the way they needed them, and they couldn’t find someone to give them a good haircut as they didn’t have anybody to do their hair. He decided that he wasn’t going to sew clothes but rather, he went back to school to learn hairdressing.

Monte’s drive for success was born from his humble background. He grew up in a house with no running water, an outside toilet and he went to a two-room schoolhouse his great-grandfather had put up in the community – this instilled a drive to work hard to figure out a way and made everything work for him.

Moving from a stylist to the show Monte started with Priscilla of Boston selling dresses, he knew he could also style his customers as well as do their hair. In 2000, he was voted as the most preferred bridal stylist for hair and makeup in Washington. His longstanding tolerance allowed him to work for a couple of other great wedding dress designers.

When Kleinfeld's were in their ninth season of filming, they considered Lori’s store, for the

opportunity since she had the space and about 1,500 wedding gowns. They were able to do a sizzle reel and a stack where they put the storyline together and filmed Monte and his team. Now, 12 seasons later and the rest is history.

Although Monte was still very green in the filming industry at the time, they sent him over to cover the whole wedding of Kate Middleton. It was also his first time seeing a royal bride go into the Abbey with a shorter veil, she walked inside as a commoner and emerged as a princess.

During his filming and show time, Monte did not consider doing hair, in fact, he did not have his first salon until he retired from filming. Apart from filming, he would still attend various hair shows in New York and even took classes. However, today Monte runs a salon where he has been able to bring different talents together. For example, Sharon Francis who was a teacher at Graham Webb, she is now the director of education and she makes sure everybody complies and that they stay on the cutting edge of what the trends are.

Maintaining his clients

Although Monte Durham travels a lot, he is still able to maintain most of his clients through the pool of talent he has at his salon. Most of his clients are understanding and they all rebook for their services.

What sets Monte’s salon apart

Well, a couple of things sets Monte’s salon apart from other salons. Always expect the unexpected, he is blessed to have the high number of talented staff members which leads to very few re-dos. He is always careful not to put himself above anybody else since he considers all people to be equal despite his name on the door. Sometimes, if his team had a busy day and he happened to leave early, Monte would come back at night, do the laundry and make sure everything was filled up so that when they come in the next morning, they were set and ready to go.

How to connect with Monte

To connect with Monte Durham and perhaps watch the facial Fridays or Fashion Friday, you can reach out via Instagram @therealmontedurham

Luxury

I’M WRITING THIS FROM THE AIRPORT IN ZIHUATANEJO, MEXICO WHERE I’VE BEEN THE PAST WEEK WORKING ON A DESTINATION WEDDING. SIX OF US WERE FLOWN IN FROM CHICAGO TO DO HAIR AND MAKEUP UNDER THE LEADERSHIP OF JUAN JOSE HERRERA (HAIR) AND AGA RHODES (MAKEUP). I FOUND A MOMENT TO SIT DOWN WITH THEM AND LEARN MORE ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO LEAD A TEAM FOR EVENTS LIKE THIS.

Aga and Juan Jose are known for being icons in the luxury bridal market. Though they work separately, they make an incredible duo that brides trust and often hire as a team.

A little about them, Juan Jose has been doing hair for a quarter of a century and working as an independent artist for the past five years under his brand, Hair by Juan Jose. Aga has been a makeup artist nearing 25 years as well. For the past eight years, she has been running two brands simultaneously, Makeup by Aga and Bridal by Aga. The wedding we just completed was unlike any other I’ve worked on. It was five days of events in a remote destination with full glam daily.

Florals, decor, the beauty team, DJs – everyone and everything were chartered in.

The consideration and planning that goes into something like this is a masterpiece in itself. This was not your average beach wedding. It was held on their family estate, which is privately nestled on the beach on the grounds of one of the resorts. They brought in healers, held yoga in the meditation room, started their wedding with a parade that included a mariachi band, and partied into the night with an epic firework show. It made the White Lotus in Italy seem casual.

I asked Juan Jose and Aga how they even begin communicating and preparing for a wedding like this. “You need to get to know the personality of the wedding,” Aga said.

She continued “That’s an important distinction during early conversations. Is there a cohesive aesthetic for all the events or do they change dramatically? This is just grazing the surface and not even going into makeup yet.”

Juan’s approach is to start with discussions about the wedding day and work his way out. A typical wedding of his will include at least two events; the rehearsal dinner and the wedding day. It’s customary at a destination wedding to have a welcome party and post-wedding brunch in addition. He establishes the dynamics of the largest events and works his discussions out toward the smaller ones. Both of these routes help establish a mental timeline before they give a written proposal.

After a general proposal is approved by all parties, then they establish the details of the timeline and logistics before finalizing the contract.

“Designing looks is the last thing we worry about. Logistics first, creative last. People are surprised to hear we work that way but for destination weddings, it has to be in that order.”

destinatiOn weddings

BY KRISTIN KAIDE

Aga makes sure all the logistics and expectations are discussed and written in the proposal and contract. This should include the number of days you’ll be working, the number of days you’re expected to be there, the number of artists you need to bring, how many people will be getting services and for which events, all transportation needs, baggage fees, per diem, hotel including taxes and fees, and rates for everyone.

How do you pick your team? What are some qualities you look for? Juan said: “People who have worked in different aspects of the hair industry and have knowledge in bridal and fashion. Having someone who can handle the high intensity is crucial, especially with the high pace moments when things go unplanned.

“Preparing is a must, but plan to have anything happen and stay calm to keep your client comfortable. A couple of examples from this trip, the first day the whole town lost power and hot water. Luckily it was during finishing touches, but we left there with a plan that if we ran into that issue any of the other days and couldn’t use hot tools, we would be roller setting, braiding, or doing updos on natural hair. You have to be able to improvise.”

I asked Aga and Juan Jose for their best application tips for destination weddings.

Juan’s pro tip to ensure longevity is prep and communication. “That means communicating with your client and your team. Send out prep instructions ahead of time and give them reminders. Include things like when to wash the hair and what to use. The mental math Juan Jose and I did to try to figure out the best days to instruct them to wash their hair for this wedding was no easy feat.”

Valerie Vanderkolk Olivia Ortiz

Alma Armas

Aga Rhodes

Juan Jose Herrera Kristin Kaide

Here Comes the

Bride

BY STEPHANIE YAGGY LAVERY, MIA SECRET EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER ADVISOR

WHEN IT COMES TO WEDDINGS, WHETHER THE BRIDE GETS HER NAILS DONE REGULARLY OR NOT, MOST (IF NOT ALL) WOMEN PLAN ON GETTING A MANICURE FOR THEIR BIG DAY. BETWEEN THE PICTURES OF THE RINGS AND HOLDING THE BOUQUET, A BRIDE’S NAILS PLAY A MAJOR ROLE ON A WEDDING DAY.

There are two things to keep in mind when it comes to bridal nails: wedding prep and current nail trends. While not every woman is going to want to wear nail art, they’re all going to want beautifully manicured nails — and gorgeous nails start with healthy nails. Encourage clients who are wedding planning to consider setting up standing appointments every two to three weeks to prep nails for their grand reveal. Just like wedding dress shopping, hair and makeup trials and cake-tasting require multiple appointments, and so too do nails.

If you don’t have a wedding nail package already, consider creating one. It’s the perfect opportunity to sell your upcoming brides a series of nail services that they may not have even thought about. After all, it’s not uncommon for brides-to-be to think a service the day before their wedding is all they need. If you lay out a game plan for the months leading up to the wedding, clients will be more inclined to take advantage of it.

Start with a consultation, which should include the removal of all nail products, a nail assessment and a discussion about what type of nail style they imagine for their wedding. Especially if nails are weak and brittle, be sure to include a fortifying nail treatment with each subsequent manicure to hydrate and strengthen the natural nails. Look for nail treatments that include keratin or vitamin E to nourish nails. Gift your client a small bottle of cuticle oil or a cuticle oil pen and encourage her to use it on her nails twice a day. Remind her that this constant hydration boost will keep their nails healthy. Taking the time in advance to care for the natural nail will ensure that it remains strong and

free from chipping and peeling later, whether your client ends up wearing lacquer, gel or acrylic.

As you get closer to the big day, if your client is looking for nail art, ask her to bring in images of nail styles that she likes, pictures of her dress, flowers, or anything that you can use to tie into an overall look. Sketch out nail art designs and color swatch alongside your client so she can visualized her final nail look. If she is used to shorter nails but desires an extension for her wedding, slowly increase her nail length, either by growing out her natural nail or creating length with enhancements, so she can get used to it.

All clients and their nails are not created equal, so start with a standard package and customize it as needed. Consider offering multiple packages, one for natural nails and one for acrylic or gel enhancements, to cater to different needs. When it comes to pricing, don’t overcharge (companies are known for price-gouging brides), but don’t undersell yourself either. Offer payment options, for example, a discount if paid in full in advance or the ability to pay in instalments. You’re creating a customized experience for these clients; make it special, and they will see the value of the service you provide.

Over the months leading up to the wedding, ideally, you have really gotten to know both the client and her nails. You’ve developed a relationship and beauty routine around one of the most memorable days of her life. Don’t let that be the end of the road! Remind your client how her nails have improved over the months, thanks to regular care and TLC, and hopefully, she continues on as a routine client for years to come.

Wedding Prep

Products

MIA SECRET GEL NAIL TREATMENT KERATIN BASE AND TOP GEL

MIA SECRET GEL NAIL TREATMENT VITAMIN E & CALCIUM

MIA SECRET SCENTED CUTICLE OIL

CND CHROMATIC SHELLAC NAIL COLOR

A beautiful collection of creative color. HIgh performance color that lasts for 14+ days. Available in more than 95 fashion-inspired colors or layer to create your own cnd.com

bridal Nails

With Jan Arnold

CND Co-Founder and Style Director, Jan Arnold shares her tips on how to get those fingertips wedding ready!

CND starts working one to two years in advance to prepare for trends, from seasonal to bridal and everything in between. For color inspiration, we look at fabric and silhouettes in fashion. What is the opacity of the bridal dresses and fabrics? Are the layers sheer or more solid? The industry just came out of three years of deeply pigmented creams because that really went with what was happening in fashion, but what is so exciting about Spring ‘23 trends is that we are embracing color and leaning into pastels. Not just any pastels though – magical pastels like fairy geodes so you get that undertone of iridescence and reflection.

CND’s Spring collection, Shade Sense, features six new shades that are whimsically animated and playful but sophisticated. The collection includes a pale citrine, powder-slate blue, and opalescence cream, all leaning into this magical trend that suits ‘23 bridal nails beautifully and for every occasion, from the shower to the big day.

For brides that want to explore white with a twist, the new

brides include White Wedding, Romantique and Negligee – all soft, white and pinky shades that will perfectly complement your most romantic day!

The Piñata

Instead of wearing a solid color, an amazing nail art design I am loving is called The Piñata. Achieve this is by using two to three colors with a dotting tool. Dot little spots of color (almost like pixelated art), starting at the tip and traveling towards the cuticle line, leaving negative space at the back of the nail. Each nail can have a little more or little less, making it customizable, fun, and perfect for the special day.

Romantic Balloons

Another design I love is Romantic Balloons, achieved by taking a pastel color and circling it at the tip, then taking a different color for another circle at the cuticle against negative space. It creates a beautiful blend of color on a perfect nude to complement the skin tone and add an element of surprise and a fashion accent.

Negative Space

ECRU NEW YORK BODY BUILDING FIBER MOUSSE

An ultra rich styling mousse wraps hair in invisible fibers creating volume and thickness. Enhanced with conditioning properties.

$30.00 // ecrunewyork.com

LACED HAIR INTERLACED WEFT EXTENSIONS

A beautifully warm Copper Penny #33 weft extension. Easy as peel, stick, WOW extensions. For a hold that lays flat and lasts. Can be gently removed using the Laced Hair Oil or Gel Bond Extension Remover. lacedhair.com

AQUAGE TRANSFORMING PASTE

combines the flexibility of a wax with the holding power of a hairspray. Non-greasy, tacky formula lets you direct hair with

NOVALASH CLEANLASH

ONE BY IBE ®

A micro weft that eliminates return hair and allows for ease of customization by cutting anywhere along the weft line without risk of damage or unravelling. Variety of colors, textures and lengths. Apply for stylist pricing // invisiblebeadextensions.com

Designed to remove dirt, pollutants and make-up. Prolongs the life and radiance of extensions by conditioning and restoring moisture.

INNOVATION IS AT THE HEART OF IBE®

Hand-tied extensions have been all the rage for about five years, McKenzie told us. They have the power to instill confidence in a client and each treatment often comes with joy and genuine satisfaction, for both the client and the stylist.

As an extensions specialist and educator, McKenzie has seen the impacts that ill-fitting wefts can have on a client’s hair and on the extensions themselves. She explained: “Clients living in warmer climates or who exercise a lot have been experiencing swelling along the weft line in hand-tied extensions because of moisture build-up. This makes extensions more susceptible to looping and sometimes causes itchiness where return hair, which is about an inch below the weft line, was rubbing against their head.”

For a time, there weren’t any obvious solutions for those problems. “And so that's why we created One by IBE®,” McKenzie said. “It really eliminates all those problems. ONE by IBE® has a reinforced top, which eliminates swelling because the hair is protected and doesn't have the ability to absorb and hold on to that moisture.

“Also, because it is a different construction, you don't have that itchy return hair. With ONE by IBE®

construction, you can cut anywhere along that weft line without the hair unravelling or fraying – which you can't do with hand-tied hair."

For stylists, ONE by IBE® is a great first step into using weft extensions, because you can cut anywhere, allowing you to customize for your client’s head shape. McKenzie told us more: "You can also be very strategic with color placement. If, say, you wanted a bright money piece to frame the guests face with blonde, you could cut a three-inch section of our wefts, and sew that onto their row in strategic placement to help those color pops.”

What tools can stylists and extensions artists use to enhance the installation process? McKenzie said: “When you’re installing extensions, you want to have the cleanest install possible. And that goes back to the tools you use as well as the technique. When caring for hair, you must be careful not to use something that will pull the extensions and cause damage. A lot of damage can actually be done in the chair, when the stylist doesn’t know how to care for extensions during blowouts and intense heat. Always be aware that you must be gentle, no matter what type of brush you’re using or on what kind of hair.”

Invisible Bead Extensions® has really gone a step further for stylists in this last year. Their app, Boost offers ongoing education, brand support, exclusive discounts and an encouraging community of tightknit stylists from around the world. The entire IBE® family is brought together in a mobile community to lift, support, and build each other up. McKenzie said: “Any stylist can download the app for free and now access the ONE by IBE® category and access education and support about the hair line - even if you're not an IBE® stylist. Even if you're not certified by IBE®, you still have full access to the hair line as well as this virtual education and support.”

Creating apps and questioning the way extensions are made and installed is part of McKenzie’s goal to continuously upskill herself and her teams as a means of innovating the industry. She told us: “New systems and products are being developed all the time and education is key in staying on top of these changes as a stylist and especially as an extensions specialist. Clients can do their own research now, so you need to be prepped to be their source for knowledge instead of their sounding board. Also, showing yourself to be ahead of trends and knowledgeable will impress clients and encourage trust, loyalty and repeat visits.”

McKenzie added: “Its extremely important to know where the hair you're using comes from. For example, some vendors will take hair from religious ceremonies where women aren’t realizing that their hair will be collected and sold on… It’s a huge deal for us that everything by IBE® is ethically sourced and sustainably made/distributed. As such, all hair in the IBE® store is ethically sourced and every single doner is fairly compensated for their hair.”

INVISIBLE BEAD EXTENSIONS HAVE RELEASED A BRAND-NEW LINE OF MICRO-WEFTS. ONE BY IBE IS AS THIN AS HAND TIED EXTENSIONS BUT ALSO HAS THE DURABILITY OF A REINFORCED MACHINE WEFT. THE LINE COMES IN A WAVY TEXTURE AS WELL AS STRAIGHT. OWNER OF IBE, MCKENZIE TURLEY, TOLD US MORE.

Invisible Bead Extensions® is a patented method with an industry changing education model. You can become virtually certified from anywhere in the world. Work one on one with an IBE® mentor and begin your journey to becoming a successful extension artist. Register to enrol in our education anytime, apply at invisiblebeadextensions.com.

We are always accepting students, apply at invisiblebeadextensions.com. Instagram handle is @invisiblebeadextensions and my personal is @hair.extension.queen

THE POWER OF COLOR IS ASTOUNDING. A GOOD TREATMENT HAS THE POWER TO BOOST CONFIDENCE, EXCITE THE CLIENT, AND CAN EVEN CREATE AN ENTIRELY NEW IDENTITY. THIS IS HOW TO DELIVER TOP-CLASS COLOR SERVICES FOR EVERY CLIENT AND CATWALK.

Hair//

Mickey Colon Jr Chrissy Danielle Lisa Hernandez

BALAYAGE FROM BASIC TO BRILLIANT

MICKEY COLON JR AND HIS WIFE KRISTEN ARE OWNERS OF ONSITE STUDIO ORLANDO, AN AWARD-WINNING BALAYAGE AND EXTENSIONS SPECIALIST SALON. THE TRUSS PROFESSIONAL AND PRODUCT CLUB AMBASSADOR MAY HAVE FOUND HIS CALLING LATER IN LIFE, BUT HE HAS CERTAINLY FOUND IT NOW, AND HE SHARED SOME OF HIS EXPERT TIPS ON CREATING FLAWLESS COLOR.

Mickey had his first taste of the hair world at 17, as a model for Schwarzkopf Professional, and it enticed him enough to look into going into cosmetology school. He explained: “But at the time, I couldn’t get any financial aid. So, I decided to go another way for a whole and work in construction for a few years.”

When Mickey met his wife Kristen, she was already a successful hairstylist. “I told her that I wanted to become a hairdresser, and she was able to get me a job at the salon she worked as an assistant. I worked at the salon for a few years, manning the front desk, cleaning towels, sweeping floors, and generally learning how a salon functions day to day. I just soaked up the joy of being in a salon, getting to see clients walk out, so happy with their service.”

But when Mickey and Kristen had their daughter, Mickey felt he had to make a decision in his life and career. He said: “At that point, I was 29 years old. I decided to go to Paul Mitchell school for barbering because I knew I wanted to focus purely on hair,

rather than go through all the courses on spa and beauty services that come with the cosmetology degree, and I was able to learn so much from my wife to supplement what I had learned in the barbering course. I ended up being one of the fastest graduates of the program, graduating in just 10 months, by the time I was 30.”

Shortly after graduating, Mickey and Kristen opened their own salon together. Eight years later, they are currently opening a new salon that is 5,800 square feet in Orlando. As a color expert, Mickey also landed a role as International Ambassador for Truss Professional , through which he travels the world, educating in both English and Spanish. He said: “As an educator, my main focus is making sure that people are getting the right education about color, blending, and how to create healthy, beautiful hair.”

I asked Mickey what drew him to dive into the color section of the industry. He said: “To be honest, the initial thing that drew me to color was the earning potential. But the more I learned and got

into it, the more it brought out the artistic side of me. I am from a very artistic background, and my family is filled with musicians and artists, so having the opportunity to express my creative side, while balancing that with the chemistry and techniques behind it all, is what made me just fall in love. The more I learned, the hungrier I became to learn more and more. The more you learn, the better you become as an artist, and the better you come, the more creative and free you can be!”

I asked Mickey about some of the challenges you face as a colorist. He said: “I think one of the biggest problems in the industry right now is that there is so much education out there, but most of the courses out there don’t go into the core of why we do the things we do. They don’t cover the fundamentals. They just show what to do and how to do it. The problem with this is that colorists will go away and try on their clients, but when they run into challenges, maybe a different hair type, texture, or color, they don’t know how to adapt and problem-solve because they don’t have those foundations to fall back on. You need to go back to basics, and learn about texture, porosity, pigmentation levels, and color theory, to become a consistently successful colorist.”

With the courses Mickey offers with Truss Professional and Product Club, he said he spends 20% of the time on technique and the other 80% on foundations. I always tell educators to ask themselves throughout their lesson, ‘Why am I doing this?’ ‘Why has this hair reacted in this way?’ and to ensure they are explaining every movement and decision throughout their lesson.”

Mickey is known as a master in the art of balayage. But what makes a master stand apart from the crowd? Mickey said it’s all about patience and practice. He said: “As I mentioned before, it is all about the fundamentals. It’s about being purposeful and knowing why you make every move you are making. 

“One thing I always tell my apprentices is the importance of finishing your look. You need to put effort all the way to the end, with the cut, the style, and the photo. Tell yourself that every cut you do is going to be featured in a magazine. Make every client feel special and prioritized. Not every client will want to be photographed after, but don’t let that hold you back from creating photo-ready hair.

“Finally, instead of comparing yourself to others, be your own competition. Always push yourself to do better and take your work to the next level. Always do it for yourself, nobody else!”

How does a good balayage service start? Mickey said: “Starting with a consultation is an obvious must. I usually ask my clients to come in with clean hair. If I have noticed that the client has any color or product residue, I will use Truss Professional’s No Metal Equaliser, which will remove any metal, color, or styling product from the hair, without stripping the natural moisture. Clarifying will strip the hair of that moisture, but this product helps you to keep the hair really healthy and moisturized for you to then start your balayage or blonding service.

“Another thing I will do before I start coloring is really assess whether the hair is healthy enough to be lightened. If the hair is moderately damaged or too dry for me to do any lighting, I will give the client a service called Truss K Recovery, which is a keratin protein, so it puts proteins back into the hair to make sure that is fresh and healthy again, and strong enough to withstand lightning. The great thing about this treatment is that you can actually do it in the same appointment as the balayage.”

Mickey believes strongly against lightening hair that is too damaged or unhealthy. He said: “One of my biggest pet peeves is when colorists will agree to lighten hair that isn’t in a good enough condition. If I have a client who comes in with hair that is not in a good enough condition, I will apologize, and then give them a roadmap for them to follow for a journey to healthier hair, and at that point, I will work with it.

“I will do the K Recover treatment, and then send them home with the product to do at home for at least two months. I will also send them home the Truss Luxe Prime Plus Shampoo and Conditioner, which is super hydrating for brittle or damaged hair. The second product that I love is the Truss Frizz Zero which is moisturizing and offers heat protection, as well as the Truss Net Mask, which I will get my clients to do twice a week for two months.

“Once they come back after two months, I will do a test strand to ensure that the hair will be able to take the lightener and stay strong at all times. Only then, will I agree to do a lightning service.

“At the end of the day, my name is behind every one of my client’s hair. So, I do not want to risk ruining my reputation by doing services I know better than to do, even if it means losing out on money. A lot of people might want to agree to these services because they are money hungry or don’t want to tell their client ‘no’. But guess what, that client is never going to come back to you because you damaged their hair even further. So, my biggest piece of advice is, to be honest with your client and honest with yourself. If you show your client and their hair respect, they will respect you back.”

How does Mickey ensure his clients stay on track and keep them healthy throughout the year? He said: “I don’t actually let my clients go blond more than twice a year. So, I will have their appointments alternate between blonding services and recovery services, where we focus on toning and hair health, and I won’t use any bleach at all. I want to make sure that the hair stays healthy all year long.”

What products does Mickey send his clients home with? He said: “I always send my blond clients home with the Truss Blonding Shampoo and Conditioner, as well as the Amino Spray, which is great for detangling and heat protection. I also love sending clients home with Truss Night Spa Serum, which is an overnight moisturizing treatment. A lot of clients confuse damaged hair with dry hair, but it is much easier to reverse if you use the right products.”

Once Mickey gets down to coloring, his Truss products and Product Club tools are always there at his side. He said: “I have been working with Truss for five years now, and the thing I love most about its products is that they are made with hair health in mind and are for all different hair types. Products like their Air Libre Bleaching Powder add collagen back into the hair, to refresh and hydrate the hair during lightening. Each one of their products has ingredients that specifically target hair concerns.

“For all the other necessities you need when coloring, Product Club is my go-to. I have been working with them for two years now, and they supply me with everything I need for coloring. I am a huge fan of their Roller Foils. It really is the little things that can make your days easier and more efficient.” •

“THE MORE YOU LEARN, THE BETTER YOU BECOME AS AN ARTIST, AND THE BETTER YOU COME, THE MORE CREATIVE AND FREE YOU CAN BE!”

PRICING

YOUR WAY!

There are several pricing structures to choose from in our industry: hourly, which has become very popular over the past three to four years; A La Carte, which has been the traditional way of pricing for years; Package Pricing, which has also become more popular over the years. And even a combination of a few of these pricing structures. The goal here is to choose a pricing structure that fits your brand and business long term. I have found so many stylists jumping into a pricing structure because it has become the ‘trend’ and they find themselves in a lot of ways enjoying it at the beginning, then struggle with it after six months to a year.

So, how do you price services? How do you price color services? My approach to pricing is to provide my students with as much data and facts as possible. We start with my five factor approach which allows us to dial into a price per minute and price per hour on every service.

This is a simple approach to pricing. However, there are a few more things to take into consideration which I will leave for another time. But, let me just touch on something that is most important and that is demand. What is your productivity percent? What is your client retention on new and current clients? Do you have a waitlist? Do you have clients reaching out to you and requesting appointments each week?

If you notice, there is one thing that is NOT listed on my top five and that is self-worth. We do not price services based on how we feel about ourselves or on emotion. Pricing is a business decision that affects your financial future, and we have to treat it as such. Focus on value. Focus on how you can deliver an exceptional client experience that is unique to your business and brand.

understand your numbers and target profit and cost of product the less you are inclined to discount your time and talent.

Pricing is one of the foundations to your business. It drives sales, your schedule, and your profit margin. Be sure to take your time and invest in a pricing structure that works well for you and please do your research before choosing your pricing structure. Be sure to gather all the facts and data and run your numbers so you can make the best decision for your business moving forward.

FEAR, AND THE MORE INFORMATION YOU HAVE THE MORE CONFIDENT YOU BECOME.”

ARE YOUR FOILS FAST ENOUGH?

HAIR COLOR IS TRULY AN ART THAT REQUIRES SKILLS, UNDERSTANDING OF COLOR THEORY, AND THE BEST TOOLS AND PRODUCTS TO BRING THEIR MASTERPIECE TOGETHER. WE SPOKE TO BEN BARKWORTH, FOUNDER OF FASTFOILS, A HIGHPERFORMANCE BRAND FOR HAIR PROFESSIONALS AND COLORISTS, TO TALK ABOUT CREATING TOOLS TO HELP ARTISTS ACHIEVE THEIR BEST WORK, TIME AFTER TIME.

FASTFOILS™ is the first to disrupt the industry by innovating a product that had been an afterthought for decades. FASTFOILS™ are highperformance highlighting foils that are specially coated with thermal properties to achieve higher levels of lift more effectively than regular foils.

FASTFOILS™ allows for a minimum of 25% faster processing time during the incubation period, eliminating the need to use potentially damaging, higher levels of developer. As a result, their foils protect the integrity of the hair while achieving a more consistent, even, and higher level of lift.

Ben said: “Our mission is to help stylists work faster and do quality work with the right education and tools. Stylists who work more efficiently can see more clients in a single day, can generate more revenue and will keep clients coming back.”

The hair industry has witnessed a series of evolution over the years, growing to become a multi-billion-dollar market driven by the emergence of innovative brands and the increasing demand from customers for solutions to enhance their beauty, confidence, and overall experience. However, beauty enthusiasts across the globe still struggle to reduce the number of hours spent at the salon, which is where Barkworth and the team, including the Director of Education, J Ladner, seek to make a difference with the invention of FASTFOILS™.

Ben Barkworth conceptualized the idea of highperformance foils while working at London Fashion Week. He was working on models backstage wearing all black and needing to work fast when he reflected on the sciences of how black absorbs heat. He had an epiphany that he could develop a foil that could absorb heat safely and work faster to make him more efficient behind the chair.

With the name of the brand being ‘Fast’ Foils, I asked Ben how important efficiency is in the world of professional color. He said: “Time is money. There is doubt about that, so efficiency at work is everything. To generate more revenue, stylists could work more hours or work faster behind the

chair; however, if they use the right tools and products that perform better, they can achieve a whole new level of performance behind the chair.

“Our technology in FASTFOILS™ absorbs and distributes heat evenly and safely to achieve a higher level of lift in less time. By cutting down the processing time for each color application by 25% or more, stylists can see more clients per day.”

Not all foils are created equally. What is it about FASTFOILS™ that make them superior choice for colorists? He said: “We manufacture our foils with endothermic technology that makes them retain and absorb heat to achieve a higher level of lift with only 10 or 20 vol, while protecting the integrity of the hair.”

Not only is Ben dedicated to offering professionals the best quality products with FASTFOILS™, but they also offer their own education program. Ben said: “Our goal is to build the beauty industry with a strong foundation on education and efficiency to support beauty professionals excel in hair coloring. We are building a state-of-the-art education program, led by our Director of Education, J Ladner and our team of ambassadors across North America.

“Our education is based on efficiency with placements and patterns of foils and it is the first time a foil company has invested in education on their products.”

In addition to FASTFOILS™’ innovative technology in foils, they have recently released the 8x10’’ pre-cut foils to give stylists more coverage with each foil.

Ben explained: “Stylists can take advantage of the faster processing time and apply less foils when using a larger format, saving even more time per application.

“We didn’t stop there… We just launched the first ever biggest, widest roll in the industry, the 8" wide roll. The 8" roll has superior heat transfer, it protects the integrity of the hair, and speeds up processing time by a minimum of 25% with the added benefit of being able to customize the length of foil for long hair. Now stylists can further increase efficiency with our technology and a wider, bigger roll for faster applications."

FAST TIPS FOR COLORISTS FOR MORE EFFECTIVE FOILING:

1) Find the right tools to work smarter, not harder.

2) Choose more coverage with each foil to save you time.

3) Learn new patterns and placements that will achieve the same look with less foils.

Learn more at fastfoils.ca

FASTFOILS LAUNCHES AN EDUCATION PLATFORM ON FOIL PATTERN AND PLACEMENT EFFICIENCY

FASTFOILS™ has once again disrupted the hair industry with the launch of their new education platform to deliver education on efficient installation of foils, the first foil manufacturer to invest in education. FASTFOILS™ are known for their innovation in foil technology that allows for a minimum of 25% faster processing time during the incubation period, eliminating the need to use potentially damaging, higher levels of developer. As a result, their foils protect the integrity of the hair while achieving a more consistent, even, and higher level of lift.

This breakthrough in higher performance was taken a step further with the recent launch of the wider, biggest roll in the market earlier, the 8” roll. Stylists now have a product that doubles the efficiency of each application, the technology saves time during processing and you can now save even more time by covering larger sections.

This level of efficiency that FASTFOILS™ offers has opened new doors for stylists and salon owners where they can see an increase in revenue working the same amount of hours. The efficiency in these high-performance foils

and the time savings with installation techniques are also benefiting the clients who spend less time on the chair.

Led by J Ladner, Director of Education, and Ben Barkworth, Founder of FASTFOILS™, the education team is composed of hair stylists who believe knowledge is power and who are committed to providing the industry with education and efficient tools to propel hair professionals into their career. The FASTFOILS™ team continues to evolve and innovate the way they help stylists and salon owners as they are launching the FASTFOILS™ Education platform which will cover all aspects of foil installation and pattern and placement efficiency.

The FASTFOILS™ Education platform is available through their website fastfoils.ca

There are free ondemand sessions available and paid and in-person classes in the future.

IN AN EVER-GROWING INDUSTRY, FOIL MANUFACTURERS NEVER INVESTED IN THE GROWTH OF THE HAIR INDUSTRY BY NEGLECTING TO SHARE KNOWLEDGE WITH STYLISTS... UNTIL FASTFOILS CAME AROUND.

MAKES THE CUT

We first had the honor of meeting Alex Tant at the 2022 Goldwell Global Experience in Amsterdam, after he took home the bronze medal for Global Goldwell Creative Haircutter. His trophy case also includes a gold medal from the 2022 USA Goldwell Creative Haircutter and the 2019 USA Goldwell Creative Colorist bronze medal.

We caught up with Alex just as he returned from Chicago to shoot his images for the 2023 Goldwell Global Awards. So, how did it go, what can he tell us about this year’s entry?

Alex said: “I feel like it's a step-up from last year. Every time I enter, I learn a lot and take notes on how I can improve going forward. I am feeling really happy with what I have created, and can’t wait for July when the images go live.”

While Alex’s image from the 2022 awards was entered in the cutting category – as that is what Alex specializes in the salon – he often uses vivid colors to enhance and bring out the complexity of the cut. I asked him a bit about how he came up with the concept for his award-winning look. He said: “I was actually influenced by my coach Michelle Pargee who encouraged me to use color

as a tool. So, when I was creating the look, I did the cut first and then used vivid color blocking on the sides to show the detail. Then, I created a really bold orange line on the fringe to match the side of the head and to contrast against the greens and yellows. It could not have come out any better.”

The real challenge of the Goldwell Creative Awards is having to recreate your image in a timed environment in the middle of a busy showroom. I asked Alex what this experience was like for him in Amsterdam. He said: “The stress of trying to live up and recreate the image in that environment was really nerve-wracking. But after the first 10 minutes, I got into a rhythm, and it was just like I was in the salon. I’m a haircutter, this is what I do every day. It just felt normal. I was a little faster-paced, but I knew what I was doing. Then the last five minutes you start to feel the pressure of the people standing behind you watching you finish. My model had to keep reminding me to smile because I was so focused and in the zone,” he laughed.

Since high school, Alex has always had his own unique style. He said: “Back then, I didn’t really know what I wanted to do as a career, but I always had a small desire to do hair. I really wanted a job where I didn’t have to change my identity.”

But as a bit of a curveball, Alex had the idea to enlist in the military. But the further he got in his application, he decided it just wasn’t for him, and a friend who was going to the Paul Mitchell Academy got him to come along and check it out, and he instantly fell in love.

“The atmosphere was amazing. I had friends there and it felt right. To think that it was the first step in a career that I am still doing 10 years later is amazing. Early in my career, I did everything, the salon where I worked didn’t have a specialty. We did everything.

“I started at Upper Hand Salons five years ago. They are Goldwell salons, which means not only do I have access to an incredible line of products, but there is such a supportive and encouraging global community. It just changed my outlook in the industry, it gave me a breath of fresh air.

“My salon owner said that I should do what makes me happy, so I decided around four years ago to focus more on cutting. I am now a full-time cutting specialist. My brain still works in color because I have been that way my entire career. When I do color for these competitions, it just slips right back on and I love it.” 

ALEX TANT HAS TAKEN HOME SEVERAL KAO GLOBAL CREATIVE AWARDS IN HIS YEARS AT HOUSTON’S RENOWNED GOLDWELL, UPPER HAND SALON . WE SPOKE TO ALEX ABOUT HOW HE USES COLOR TO COMPLEMENT AND BRING THE WOW FACTOR TO HIS CUTS, AND ABOUT HOW HE RELIES ON KERASILK TO KEEP COLORS VIVID AND HAIR HEALTHY.

“THE KERASILK COLOR PROTECTION PRODUCTS ARE AN ABSOLUTE GAMECHANGER. I USE THE COLOR PROTECTING SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER, AND LIQUID CUTICLE FILLER TO HELP KEEP COLORS VIBRANT AND GIVE HAIR A BEAUTIFUL SHINE. I EVEN USE IT ON MYSELF BECAUSE IT DOES A GOOD JOB AT MAINTAINING MY DEEP DARK COLOR.”

Kao Salon’s newest Silk+ Technology powered range and masterbrand, KERASILK, has made its mark on Alex in his salons.

KERASILK was one of the original pioneers of using silk in hair care, fusing it with keratin to strengthen every strand. So for even the most unruly hair types and textures, KERASILK always delivers silk-like results.

Now, all KERASILK formulas are infused with vegan Silk+ Technology, which combines exclusive bioengineered Biomimetic Silk with high-potency ingredients in formulations that ensure each product achieves hair that is noticeably more resilient, elastic, shiny, and soft.

Biomimetic Silk replaces conventional silk proteins, replenishing amino acids inside and outside the hair. Then, each formula is infused with precise ingredients known to address targeted needs such as hydration, color protection, or volume.

He said: “It’s my go-to for shampoos and treatments in the salon for sure. The KERASILK Color Protection products are an absolute game-changer. I use the Color Protecting shampoo, conditioner, and Liquid Cuticle Filler to help keep colors vibrant and give hair a beautiful shine. I even use it on myself because it does a good job at maintaining my deep dark color With the KERASILK Color Protection it lasts so much longer, and it also makes it look so healthy and shiny.

“As far as styling products go, I love the KERASILK Style line.” I asked Alex for his favorite product in the Kerasilk Style Line, and he said: “My favorite is probably the Volumizing Styling Foam."

“Here in Houston, the KERASILK Refinement Service to calm surface frizz is by far a necessity. If someone doesn’t want to commit to a Brazilian treatment, it’s something that I can pop on quickly during their appointment.”

There is a lot to love about the KERASILK range. Alex said: “There are so many options for products both insalon and available for your clients to retail. I can give my clients a personalized bundle of products, from masks to shampoos, that fit their exact hair type, and help them to create the styles they want to create.

“To me, the products you use really matter. I often hear clients say, ‘I can never recreate what you do in the salon, when I am at home.’ And I say, 'are you using the same products I use?' To me, it’s more important than anything else to have good quality products that help protect the hair and achieve your desired style. It’s not about just selling retail, it’s about

making sure they’re happy with their hair at home.”

Coming up is the 75th anniversary of Goldwell and Alex offered advice to those that want to compete in the upcoming Global Creative Awards.

“Just do it and have fun. Just creating and seeing your own work on camera on film, edited, right before your eyes is unlike an experience that I had experienced up until that point. It is something that makes you look at what you do in a different light. If you're feeling like you're stuck, and you're not feeling creative anymore in day-to-day salon life, schedule a photoshoot! It ignites something in you regardless of the outcome. Who knows, you might surprise yourself. It also gives you a reason to get to connect with the global KAO community!”•

“TO ME, IT’S MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING ELSE TO HAVE GOOD QUALITY PRODUCTS THAT HELP PROTECT THE HAIR AND ACHIEVE YOUR DESIRED STYLE. SO, FOR ME, IT’S NOT ABOUT JUST SELLING RETAIL, IT’S ABOUT MAKING SURE THEY’RE HAPPY WITH THEIR HAIR AT HOME. AND WITH THE KERASILK LINE, IT SELLS ITSELF.”

BELIEVE IN WHAT HAIR CAN BE

POWERED BY SILK+ TECHNOLOGY FOR STRONGER, MORE BEAUTIFUL HAIR.

KERASILK, built on 40 years of innovation, 100% vegan and enhanced by Biomimetic Silk, will make you believe in the transformative power of hair care.

ON OUR MOST RECENT TRIP TO NEW YORK, SALONEVO HAD THE PLEASURE OF MEETING WITH THE HIGH PRIESTESSES OF PUNK, TISH AND SNOOKY, THE CREATORS OF THE FIRST ALTERNATIVE BEAUTY BRAND, MANIC PANIC NYC. THESE PURELY BADASS WOMEN HAVE A STORY TO TELL, AND WE WERE ALL EARS.

Back in the 70s, Tish and Snooky were just two girls from the Bronx. They lived at the last stop on the number one train. Some days they would just have enough money for one fare between the two of them. But as they rode the hour-long train journey into Manhattan, they would put on their makeup and spike-heeled shoes, and transform themselves into glam rockstars, ready for a night in NYC.

Tish said: “We were hanging out at Max’s, backstage with all the rock stars and stuff. It really was a fun time.”

Snooky added: “We actually had boyfriends who were in this band called Captain Beefheart and his Magic Band, and we went on tour for two months with them in England and Scotland.

“When we got back, we got into this wacky off-off-off Broadway show called Palm Casino Review.”

Tish continued: “It was all downtown characters and a lot of drag queens and some of the Cochettes and Trocadero Ballet would do guest spots.”

“It was actually in that dressing room,” Snooky said, “That we learned so much about style and makeup and pzazz. It really shaped our whole aesthetic.”

All of these unique and amazing experiences drove Tish and Snooky to open what was America’s firstever punk boutique in 1977. Tish said: “Our store was just an extension of who we were. We had about $250 between us when we opened, but it was the perfect sideline to our singing careers. We wouldn’t open until noon or at one, so it didn’t interfere too much with gigs and parties. And sometimes we would sleep there on the floor!”

Snooky added: “All the local bands used to come in during the day to pick up bits and pieces before playing CBGBs at night.”

Tish and Snooky’s boutique was a place where they could curate a collection of everything they liked, from records, clothes, and accessories, to beauty products. From black lipstick to white foundation, and spray-on vivid hair color, Tish and Snooky’s boutique

was the only place you could get many alternative beauty products.

But something was missing, and that was an alternative, cruelty-free, rock star-worthy hair color brand. And so, Tish and Snooky took it upon themselves to fill that gap for all those dyehard punks who wanted to truly express their individuality through their hair. And that’s how Manic Panic was born!

Snooky said: “We were pioneers, and by God, were we laughed at.” Tish jumped in, “I remember going to the opening of the Mosh Club and I was walking down the street and I got sucker punched in the face and had to go to the hospital. People at that time were really against anything against the norm.”

People might have not known what to think at first, but as time went on, Manic Panic emerged from out of the underground boutiques and punk stores, to becoming one of the most prominent vivid hair color brands worldwide. And that can mostly be attributed to Tish and Snooky’s dedication, determination, and badass attitude.

Snooky said: “We created the products because they were what we wanted. We were women, and we were wearing it. We were the ambassadors of our own brand.”

The one supporter Tish and Snooky always had, no matter what, was their mom.

Tish said: “Our mother was our total inspiration. She always encouraged us in anything we wanted, no matter how crazy it was. She would come to see us perform in our punk rock bands and always was behind us.”

Snooky continued: “When we opened our store, we were trying to think of a name. And around that time our mom was working at the Bronx Psychiatric Hospital. And she came home from work one day and told us the story of a patient going into a manic panic. And from the moment we heard that term, we thought, that’s the name!”

FOR THE LAST 10 YEARS, YOUTUBER, EDUCATOR, SALON OWNER AND COLOR EXPERT CRAIG, ALSO KNOWN AS “CRAIG’S WORLD OF HAIR”, HAS WORKED IN-SALON, ON TV, AND CREATING EDUCATIONAL DIGITAL CONTENT FOR A VARIETY OF BRANDS AND PLATFORMS. THIS IS HIS GUIDE TO COLOR.

After 35 years of jumping between the salon and the red carpet, Craig has found his passion in education. What drew him to that side of the industry? “I have memories watching my mother doing her hair. It was the ‘70s and all very glamorous! I would teach my teddy bears how to do stuff like bake a cake or whatever else a kid thinks of,” he laughed. “But I’ve always loved sharing my knowledge. My ethos is to make people feel great, whether that’s a client in my chair or a hair professional. I want to make stylists excited about what they do and give them the tools they need to develop their own creativity outside of the confines of whatever work they’re doing. It’s never been about fame or becoming an industry name – it’s about the art of hair and encouraging people to care.”

We asked why Craig specialized in color, but he told us: “It’s a bit old school to specialize in just one thing, so I have a YouTube channel and host numerous

education seminars and programs. I might be applying vivid color in the salon one day, or building content for brands another. I just love hair!” He believes in passing knowledge on: “I made a conscious decision to put myself out there with color education, because I wanted to give back what I've learned over 25 years. I love creating content, whether that’s educational tools or social videos." He told us his proudest moment: “Having my own salon in Soho for 10 years has been my greatest achievement. At the end of my first week as an apprentice, I knew it was what I wanted. Making that a reality by the age of 30 was amazing.”

No day for Craig is ever the same... As a stylist and content creator, there's always a fresh trend to jump on, a new product to try, or an innovative tool to explore. We honed in on color trends, which Craig told us are being set by the industry's biggest color houses: "They're pushing warmer shades right now,

but on the flip side of that, luxury browns, chocolates, and mushrooms are becoming more popular with clients, which have cooler undertones. “And blonds have moved away from cool, grayish tones. It’s more golden and sun kissed. I like using foils to create that reflective, dimensional look.

“For vivid, I’m into striking looks; graphic, angular stripes. For years, we were color melting and blending, but we’re embracing the stronger body colors now.” What products does Craig use to create showstopping looks? He’s a big fan of K18: “I always recommend the K18 Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask for bleaching treatments. I use the K18 PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo at the backwash.”

What drew him to K18? “When I spoke to the owner of K18 and tried out their products, I fell in love. Their products work deeply within the hair – especially the leave-in mask. It works nicely on fine and textured hair to reduce fluffiness. You’d never think that someone who bleached their hair could have perfectly conditioned hair, but the leave-in mask achieves this.

“I shampoo off all of colors with K18 PEPTIDE PREP™ Detox Shampoo. Traditionally speaking, something that's clarifying and deep cleansing would make the hair feel rubbish. But this really doesn't. It has active charcoal to cleanse the scalp, salicylic acid to exfoliate and a micro dose of the K18 peptide, which makes the hair feel great.” What’s the key to creating and enhancing showstopping color? Craig said: “Never be afraid to experiment. Try everything and cocktail what you use. However, in the beginning, I recommend following manufacturer guidelines until you really know the product. Only then, should you start cocktailing. Some ingredients work in harmony, and some categorically shouldn’t be used together because of the formulation and ingredients.”

Craig is @craigsworldofhair on Instagram and The World of Craig on YouTube.

“THE K18 LEAVE-IN MOLECULAR HAIR MASK WORKS NICELY ON FINE AND TEXTURED HAIR TO REDUCE FLUFFINESS. YOU’D NEVER THINK THAT SOMEONE WHO REPEATEDLY BLEACHED THEIR HAIR COULD HAVE PERFECTLY CONDITIONED HAIR, BUT THE LEAVE-IN MASK ACHIEVES THAT WITH EASE.”

COLORING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTIONS

WE ASKED FOUR OF THE INDUSTRY’S BRIGHTEST COLORISTS WHY THE VEGAN AND CRUELTY-FREE, BRITISH-MADE COLOR BRAND, DIRECTIONS, IS THEIR NUMBER ONE CHOICE FOR VIVID HAIR.

Douglas Reid @douglasreidhair

Color Educator and Owner of R&R Hair and Beauty

“Directions is my number-one choice for vivid hair because they have a huge range of 46 intermixable shades, which means you can formulate any shade to suit your client’s expectations.

“They’re also vegan-friendly, and ammonia and PPDfree, meaning the color service is pleasant for the client’s scalp and hair. The shine, condition, and results after using Directions really speak for themselves. My tips for great color are color blocking, sectioning patterns (such as half and half colors), and to use contrasting colors. My favorite tool is the color wheel as it helps determine what colors work well together, what colors sit next to each other, and what colors are opposite each other. Don’t be fooled – less can be more; sometimes a slice of vivid color can also look just as striking!”

Taylor Anthony @taylordcreationss

Owns Taylor’d Creations, NVQ Educator, and Bleach Specialist

“Directions deliver hydrated, smooth, shiny hair. They’re conditioner-based, so the consistency is thick and easy to control. My top tip is to always place vivid colors on top of compatible undertones. I recommend creating a color palette on white kitchen roll. This gives the opportunity to see how colors will sit before committing to full application. My last tip is section! Map out placement before picking up tint brushes. Once you start to apply color, use foil, mesh, or cotton wool to keep sections separate. It's incredible to see Directions taking environmentally conscious decisions when creating their new packaging. The recycled containers have allowed me to take the correct steps in working sustainably.”

Mae @cabincutsofficial

Freelance Stylist and Color Expert

Poppy Johnson

@hairbypoppy

Owner of vegan salon Root 66 and Vivid Color Specialist

“My top tips are to choose your shades wisely depending on overall tone and starting level. E.g. if a client’s hair is dark orange, lifting using a light pink won’t work. Use oranges, reds, or dark pinks for the best pay off. My most-used Directions shades are Cerise, Carnation Pink, and Rubine. But they change with the seasons! “I love that Directions bottles are made with sea plastic, lowering our carbon footprint and creating a greener planet!”

“Directions is my number-one choice for many reasons. They have a variety of colors that can be mixed to make any shade you want! I love how they make my clients’ hair feel and I love how true they are.

“My top tip for creating a vivid look is making sure you capture the color correctly. Use a ring light or natural lighting and a lovely shine spray so the light just bounces off it!

“My most-used Directions shade is Cerise or Flamingo Pink. For trends, I’m seeing a lot of money pieces with a bit of root! I also have lots of clients asking for pastel pink going into the warmer seasons.”

Josie

SHADES OF

SUMMER

AFTER JUST OVER TWO DECADES IN THE INDUSTRY, IT’S SAFE TO SAY SUMMER KNOWS HER STUFF! BASED IN SAN DIEGO, SHE’S A COLOR EXPERT, AMBASSADOR FOR STYLETEK AND OLIVIA GARDEN, AND OPERATES OUT OF HEADLINES SALON. THIS IS HER ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CREATING ASTOUNDING COLOR FOR SPRING.

Summer told us that she’s always loved working with color: “I love everything! Blonding, brunette, and recently reds/coppers are where I’m focusing right now. I love how there are so many different layers to hair color, which is why I rarely work with just one singular color. Hair color is always changing and evolving and so working with it never gets old!”

It only takes one flick through the pages of SalonEVO to know that we speak to all kinds of experts in every area of this industry. There’s creativity around every corner, and as previous experts have told us, natural colors are on their way back in! We asked Summer to tell us about the trends she’s foreseeing for the season ahead: “I do see the trends shifting to more natural hair color as well because I see people embracing their natural tones every day in our salon. I especially think reds and coppers are here to stay. I’m loving that they’re

back along with warmer tones. As we get closer to summer, I see lighter reds and coppers trending. Specifically, I think strawberry blonde, rose gold, and copper will be huge. Of course, with a mix of blonde to keep it bright for the sunny season!”

The most popular balayage tends to be a blend of blonde and brunette. But what about redheads? We asked Summer to share some advice for applying color/balayage to red hair, focusing on how to make it a) shine b) add depth/texture and c) add vibrancy. She shared her insight: “The way I achieve my dimensional redheads is using a combo of techniques. I usually apply a base color and then add on a foilyage.”

She continued: “I do minimum foiling to keep the dimension. I utilize bigger weaves or even slices to get the pops of brightness too. A gloss is a MUST to add back the shine. I also apply two formulas when

glossing. This makes sure the color is ever melted and vibrant where I want it to be. I recommend clients come back and get a gloss every four to six weeks or take home a color depositing mask.”

What impacts will sub-par/low quality foils have on the final color? “I choose professional foils from STYLETEK because they are a higher-grade aluminum, thicker, and textured on both sides which helps them stay in place. I feel like the hair lifts faster and more even when using a professional foil.”

How would Summer prep hair that is damaged, dry, or frizzy for a full color treatment? “I always start every chemical service with K18,” she revealed. “I use both the K18 Professional Molecular Repair Hair Mist and Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Masks for all services. The mist enters the hair on a molecular level and heals Desulphated Bonds deep in the cortex. K18 ensures that the color will take evenly. I follow up with the mask before toning and after I shampoo the color out of the hair. The best part is you can apply K18’s toning products right over the repair masks. This mask evens out the porosity of the hair and ensures the gloss takes evenly.”

With great hair comes great extensions! Not only do they add volume and lengthen the hair, they also offer versatility for color design – the kind of experimentation you can offer clients who are curious about color but don’t want to commit to a new look entirely. Summer uses them for: “I love to

“MY FAVORITE PRODUCT FROM STYLETEK IS THEIR HEAVY XL BALAYAGE COLORING SHEETS. THE ADDED LENGTH MAKES MY JOB WAY EASIER. I CAN USE LESS FOILS AND GO A LOT FASTER WITH THE EXTRALONG VERSION!”

add in extensions for added volume and length. Extensions are also good for clients that want to be super blonde but their hair doesn’t like lightener. I love adding in just one row of hand tied extensions to achieve bright blonde ends. Looks great on brunettes and redheads!”

K18 may have Summer’s heart when it comes to mists and masks, but when it comes to tools, she’s a STYLETEK and Olivia Garden loyal! We wondered what drew her to these brands?

“Hands down my favorite product from STYLETEK is their Heavy XL Balayage Coloring Sheets. The added length to the foils makes my job way easier. I can use less foils and go a lot faster with the extra-long foils.”

When it comes to Olivia Garden: “Olivia Garden is another brand I

absolutely love. They have a personal touch and Anne is always so lovely to talk to. I have so many favorite tools… but here are a few! First, the NanoThermic PowerGrip Round Brushes, OG Brush (fine-med), and the Titanium + ion Flat Iron. The round brush creates a super smooth blow dry as well. It's also great for detangling the hair and evenly brushing toners through. The bristles are removable, which makes it easy to wash and sanitize.

“Last but not least, the Titanium + ion Flat Iron fits perfectly in your hand and has rounded edges that make curling a breeze. I also love how smoothly it runs through the hair. Would recommend!”

Find Summer on Instagram as @manely.summer

GOLDWELL DUALSENSES COLOR REVIVE SHAMPOO

Designed to revive and intensify hair color. Neutralises unwanted undertones including brassiness and yellow undertones. Suitable for color-treated or natural hair.

goldwell.com

TRUSS DELUXE PRIME

A versatile protein infused spray that restores devitalized, fragile, damaged and chemically treated hair. Detangles the hair leaving it soft and silky. Can be used as a leavein or pre-blowout lotion.

$35.60// storetruss.com

LA RICHE DIRECTIONS HAIR LIGHTENING PEROXIDE

Directions 1L (20 volume) cream peroxide should be paired with Directions Hair Lightening Bleach Powder, using a professional technique, for salon-worthy results.

directionshaircolour.co.uk

LA RICHE DIRECTIONS HAIR LIGHTENING BLEACH POWDER

Directions dust-free Hair Lightening blue bleach powder should be mixed with Directions Cream Peroxide, for professional and salon-worthy results.

directionshaircolour.co.uk

PRODUCT CLUB JETBLACK REUSABLE LATEX GLOVES

Thick, strong latex material, which gives secure grip on tools, and are ideal for use with all color applications. Extra long cuff extens three inches past the wrist.

SCHWARZKOPF FIBREPLEX NO2 BOND SEALER

A deeply caring treatment designed to complement Fibreplex No.1 Bond Booster. Provides nourishment for strong, supple hair. schwarzkopf-professional.com

STOPPING

Hair Issues

AT THE ROOT

PENNY JAMES IS A HAIRDRESSER TURNED TRICHOLOGIST WITH A PASSION FOR HELPING CLIENTS FIND HAIR HEALTH.

PENNY SHARED ABOUT ORIBE HAIRCARE’S NEW SERENE SCALP COLLECTION, AND PRIORITIZING SCALP HEALTH, WITHOUT SACRIFICING LUXURY.

Penny began her career as a hairdresser in London 40 years ago. After training at Trevor Sorbie London, she moved to New York and joined the team at Frederic Fekkai as one of the founding members of his new salon. Penny explained: “I began taking on more editorial work, eventually bringing me to work with Oribe Canales at his salon on Fifth Avenue. However, as my career expanded, I started to suffer from hair loss due to a stressful time. Not only was I losing hair, but I noticed that many of my clients were also suffering from hair loss. I decided to return to school to study trichology and became board certified with The Institute of Trichologist UK and the International Association of Trichology AU. Now I could get to the root of the matter and help my clients."

“I’m driven by my passion for helping every client who sees me with a broken spirit due to their hair loss

and making every client feel good about themselves."

“I now own the Penny James Salon Trichology Center, offering my clients a 360-degree experience managing their hair and scalp concerns.”

I asked Penny what it was like working with legendary Oribe Canales back in the day, and now getting the opportunity to work with his company and legacy so many years later. She said: “It feels bittersweet. It saddens me that Oribe is no longer alive, his life taken way too soon while he was so young. He would be proud of the incredible job the Oribe team has done to keep his legacy alive. I am honored to be part of the Oribe Hair Care team. The attention to detail and the very best ingredients used in all the Oribe lines are super impressive. Oribe is a leader in the hair care world, and it is a privilege to be

Oribe Hair Care is known for its incredible luxury products with beautiful fragrances, high-quality ingredients, and exceptional performance. The latest addition to the Oribe roster is the latest addition to the Oribe roster is the Serene Scalp Oil Control Collection, developed to extend the time between washes by reducing excess oil and sebum on the scalp. The products are designed to rebalance the scalp’s delicate microbiome, the ecosystem of bacteria (both good and bad) that lives on the surface of the skin.

I asked Penny what she loves most about this new family of products. She said: “I love that it prioritizes prevention over cure. The ingredients work to gently yet effectively cleanse, treat and maintain a healthy scalp and therefore result in healthy, beautiful hair.”

Penny explained that an oily scalp is caused by overactive sebaceous glands, secreting sebum onto the scalp. She said: “The gland can become large and secrete more than average oil (sebum). Some of the most common causes are stress, hormones, diet, or environmental aggressors, such as pollution, which can cause an unbalanced scalp microbiome.”

Oily hair is something most people will have experienced at some time in their life, but for those who struggle frequently with overactive glands, it can be a real hardship. Penny said: “The new Serene Scalp Oil Control Collection is a must-have product line for people struggling with oily hair because the products work together as a regimen to balance the scalp’s microbiome and prevent overly oily hair without stripping the hair. The purifying shampoo gently cleanses without drying or stripping. The Treatment Spray mattifies the scalp to control and reduce sebum, prolongs styles and extends the time between washing, and also detoxifies and protects against environmental pollutants.

“The shampoo and treatment were put to the test in a consumer-panel survey. 90% of panelists saw a noticeable reduction in oiliness on the hair and scalp. 91% of panelists felt their scalp was less oily for 72 hours after use, and after just one use, 90% of panelists felt their hair was cleaner at the roots."

Extend time (and serenity) between washes.

EMBRACING KULTURE

MEET THE ADVOCATE AND EDUCATOR CREATING A DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

THE SALON INDUSTRY REMAINS ONE OF THE LAST INSTITUTIONS BLATANTLY SEGREGATED BY RACE. THIS RACIAL DIVISION NOT ONLY PUTS STYLISTS AT A DISADVANTAGE, IT PUTS THE ENTIRETY OF THE HAIR INDUSTRY AT RISK OF FALLING BEHIND. KEYA NEAL , A STYLIST, EDUCATOR, AND DEIB ADVOCATE, IS CALLING ATTENTION TO THIS DIVIDE IN A BIG WAY WITH HER TEXTURE VS RACE CURRICULUM AND MOVEMENT.

Having created and presented the Texture VS Race curriculum for the first time in 2018, Keya’s message challenged the industry elite to reflect on why they did not know how to work on curly and coily textures. Combining texturally inclusive technical education with anti-racism coaching,

Keya said: “It begins in the schools. Stylists receive little to no education on how to work on curly, coily, or natural hair. Instead, the education primarily focuses on theory and techniques assigning straight, wavy, and finer hair the default texture. Undereducated stylists or colorists who cannot work with textured hair shy away from it because of their lack of knowledge. This cycle perpetuates the notion that curly and highly textured hair is “hard to work with."

By omitting these textures from being a standard part of the curriculum, stylists perceive texture education as an elective. This ultimately leads to discrimination at the front desk when clients are being turned away simply because of the hair."

We’ve seen many viral videos and posts recounting client stories of being turned away based on their race or hair texture. Even more unfortunate, these videos often allow us to witness the pain and damage caused to clients whose hair is severely mishandled by an unequipped stylist. These curly and coily textured clients walk away carrying the weight of the negative encounter, while the stylist is not held

responsible for their technical shortcomings. This narrative is not only harmful, it needs to be reversed. Keya’s core mission is to provide stylists with the basic techniques and cultural awareness to accept a diverse clientele behind the chair. The Texture VS Race curriculum gives stylists hands-on and hearts-in education at the annual Texture VS Race Summit, and directly educates salons and the education team of industry brands. Stylists learn the basics of natural styles and explore consultation practices that help identify core characteristics of texture on an individual basis. The experience through live models provides a healthy spectrum of texture while learning to honor the hair and the person in the chair. Colorists learn how to formulate for highly melanated and textured hair, explore the nuances of tone and toners, and are taught proper placement techniques for all textures. Lastly, cutters will learn techniques to accentuate and compliment curly textures.Keya explained: “You should be able to service any texture of hair that sits in your chair, on the very basics of levels. You don’t have to be the best wash-n-go in your town, but you should be able to have an inclusive and well-rounded skillset that prevents you from being harmful in the chair.”

The industry’s shortcomings in diversity and inclusion don’t only appear in the form of viral client videos, they appear in biased marketing campaigns, exclusionary

requirements, and non-diverse leadership. When diversity, true inclusion, and different perspectives are not valued or understood, you’re bound to make a misstep out of ignorance. To help brands avoid these missteps Keya dedicates her time acting as a DE&I consultant and leadership trainer for beauty brands seeking to advance their anti-racism goals.

After the murder of George Floyd and the coinciding Black Lives Matter movement, the industry took a moment to reflect on its inclusion efforts. During this time Keya led the conversation of “what now?” with the answer “be equitable to Black people,” thus creating the REPAIRations event. With the influx of newly discovered texture education, Keya felt that educating the advantaged group of people without leveling the playing field for Black stylists would cause economic hardship to the Black stylist community.

Now, Keya acts as a color educator, texture expert, and Equity, Justice, and Liberation consultant, working to create a more inclusive and understanding industry. Keya also works to highlight Black artists through the Texture VS Race Collaborative Team and acts as a talent resource for the industry under the TEXTURE Vs Race-The AGENCY umbrella.

Find Keya on Instagram @Keyaartistically and Texture VS Race @texturevsrace. Learn more at www.kolourkulture.com

Photography// Shawn Maxwell.

CREATING SPACE FOR A DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE INDUSTRY THROUGH EDUCATION.

TEXTURE VS RACE IS A MOVEMENT TO CREATE A MORE DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INDUSTRY THROUGH TEXTURALLY-INCLUSIVE EDUCATION AND ANTIRACISM COACHING. BY PROVIDING STYLISTS WITH A STANDARDIZED TEXTURE CURRICULUM AND CREATING SPACE TO LEARN ABOUT THE CULTURAL SIGNIFICANTS OF NATURAL HAIR, TEXTURE VS RACE SEEKS TO MAKE THE INDUSTRY A SAFER SPACE. JOIN THE CONVERSATION.

HAIR IS A FABRIC, NOT A RACE

CUTTING-EDGE EDUCATION

FOR ASPIRING BARBERS:

A FIRST LOOK INSIDE WAHL BARBER ACADEMY WITH LANCE WAHL

WAHL CLIPPER CORPORATION RECENTLY ANNOUNCED IT WOULD BE TEAMING UP WITH PIVOT POINT ACADEMY TO CREATE THE FIRST-EVER WAHL BARBER ACADEMY, SET TO OPEN IN SPRING 2023 IN CHICAGO, IL. THIS GROUNDBREAKING INSTITUTION WILL PROVIDE FUTURE BARBERS WITH THE SKILLS NEEDED TO EXCEL IN THE INDUSTRY, WHILE ALSO OFFERING ADVANCED TRAINING CLASSES FOR PROS.

We had the opportunity to sit down with Lance Wahl, Senior Vice President of Professional Sales & Marketing at Wahl Clipper Corporation, to learn more about this exciting new venture and what it means for the future of barbering education.

We first asked Lance, why is education so vital to Wahl, and why was opening this Barber Academy a natural step in furthering this support of the industry. He said: “At Wahl, we've always believed in the power of education. That's why we launched our Fade It

Forward® program back in 2018, providing barber school scholarships to students in need. Now, we're taking things to the next level with Wahl Barber Academy. Our goal is to provide aspiring barbers with the skills and knowledge they need to excel in the industry. The Academy will have a comprehensive curriculum that covers everything from technical skills to hair cutting, grooming, and business skills. It's all about preparing our students to perform at the highest levels of the industry.”

“AT WAHL, WE'VE ALWAYS BELIEVED IN THE POWER OF EDUCATION”

artist rendering

Lance explained that the initial goal of the Wahl Barber Academy is to create well-rounded, exceptional barbers who will be prepared to succeed in the top levels of the men's grooming industry. He said: “Our partnership with Pivot Point Academy is really what makes us unique to other barber schools. Pivot Point Academy will oversee school operations and is widely respected for developing exceptional new hair and beauty professionals. We were excited to find a partner whose reputation for excellence matched our own.”

Chicago is lucky enough to be home to the Wahl Barber Academy. Lance spoke on this: “Chicago is a great location for the academy as it is centrally located in the US and not far from Wahl’s global headquarters in Sterling, Illinois. The Academy’s location is near O’Hare Airport and is easily accessible via public transportation. And of course, Chicago has a reputation as a hub for amazing talent within the beauty and barber industry.”

Not only will students of the Wahl Barber Academy be recipients of an unparalleled level of education, but they will also receive unique opportunities to meet and learn from some of the best Wahl Professional barbers. Lance said: “The Wahl Academy will have a diverse team of licensed instructors providing a world-class education experience, in a new, intentionally thought-out learning environment for the next generation of barber superstars. What excites me is knowing in 10 to 15 years some of the biggest names in the industry will have started at the Wahl Barber Academy.

“The Wahl Barber Academy’s mission is to train the next generation of barbers and provide education from some of the best licensed instructors in the industry. In addition, from time to time, Wahl Professional Educators may participate as guest lecturers. When class is not in session, the academy will serve as an advanced training center, hosting educational opportunities for industry professionals and Wahl Professional’s global team of educators.”

Wahl’s partner, Pivot Point Academy, has assembled a team of leading licensed instructors. I asked Lance what they looked for when selecting the best educators for the Academy. He said: "The team of licensed instructors demonstrates technical skill, has the ability to inspire and motivate students and has a commitment to excellence in the industry."

Denise Provenzano, Owner & Partner of Pivot Point Academy, is overseeing faculty recruitment in collaboration with Principal Educator, Ken Washburn, and Academy Director, Michelle Lamantia. Their reputation for selecting the best instructors will ensure the high standards of education at the academy.”

Not only will the instruction and resources available to Wahl Barber Academy students be outstanding, but the new state-of-the-art campus will facilitate learning in a way that is comfortable, efficient and effective. Lance said: “The building is being designed by the award-winning team at Interworks Architecture. It will feature a 6,183-square-foot educational space with design elements that enhance students' and staff's experience and make it conducive to learning.

“It will have an overall modern-industrial style with black leather and chrome-trimmed Wahl barber chairs.

“Workstations will feature warm cherry wood cabinets with black trim and mirrors, and the work labs and color bar will carry the same design with black countertops and drawer pulls, complementing the cherry cabinets.

“Adding to the welcoming feel of the space, the lighting features black pendants with copper interiors, that will cast a warm glow. The flooring is just as remarkable with a cement base infused with a beautiful vein of copper running through it.

“For a modern touch, the glass backsplash boasts a gray color, elevating the aesthetic of the space. Classrooms, offices, and conference rooms carry through the design sophistication with the same look and feel, too.”

When will classes begin? “Classes are set to begin in Spring 2023, and potential students can begin their application process shortly.”

MAN MADE AND TIMELESS

ANGELA HENNING IS A THIRD-GENERATION BARBER FROM FORT WORTH, TX, THERE’S NO DOUBT THAT THE CRAFT OF BARBERING IS IN HER DNA. NOT ONLY THAT, BUT SHE ALSO HAS A NATURAL GIFT FOR TEACHING AND EDUCATION AND THAT HAS TAKEN HER ON A JOURNEY WITH 18.21 MAN MADE.

Angela has 14 members of her family on both sides that are in the hair business. Her great uncle, Louis G Ayala, started barbering at age 15 and was still doing it at aged 90. Her grandfather, John, after a long career, retired and decided to go to barber school in his retirement. When he opened a barbershop, he had three of his daughters working there. His oldest daughter, Angela’s mother, wasn’t a barber, but Angela was, so she took her place – the first granddaughter to work with him.

Angela opened her own shop in 2007 and she finally sold it to one of her employees in 2018, after finding out she was pregnant after 10 years of marriage. She said: “That was at the height of me travelling and representing 18.21 Man Made as an educator, and I felt that was my purpose, to educate. When I was working with my grandfather, he would bring every new employee into the shop and put them next to me because he knew I would train them. I didn’t need them to be perfect, I needed them to be teachable. A lot of cosmetologists were coming to me to learn barber skills, so that they could get a job in a barbershop.

“Once I was discovered by 18.21 Man Made I was travelling a lot, and I felt really fulfilled. I would go to cosmetology schools and people were so hungry for education. I was balancing my barbershop and travelling when miracle baby number one was on his way. I was managing to do it all, then just 16 months after miracle number one… miracle number two was born.

“I was asking myself how do I balance family and work? It’s a lot to juggle two kids, a business and all the travel. I wanted to continue with the education, I didn’t want to stop travelling. It made more sense to me to go on a few trips a month and just work a few days behind the chair. So, I sold my barbershop and then Covid happened. I had always put my clients first and had a strong relationship with them which paid me back during Covid, and they have now become like family.

“I have my regular clients, and prefer word of mouth referrals, as my clients do the filtering for potential new clients. I travel sporadically, but when I do I prefer hands on training with 18.21. I go to cosmetology schools and salons to teach barber services. A lot of cosmetologists were coming to me to learn barbering skills so they would be confident in servicing any and everyone in the barbershop.”

I asked Angela what she hopes to pass onto fellow barbers and stylists. She said:

“I think it’s important to realize the potential impact we have on others, within our communities. If social media was no longer available to us, would we be able to rely on word of mouth only? And what would your clients and community say

about you? Would they speak of only the technical skill you provide? What sets you apart when there are so many talented individuals? I had a client once tell me that during Thanksgiving dinner, their family shared what they were thankful for. He mentioned that he was thankful for me, his barber! I thought that was hilarious and a bit surprising.”

What does success look like to Angela? She said: “When I first became a barber, I witnessed most of the women I worked alongside struggle to find a balance with work and their home/family life. We as professionals sacrifice so much of ourselves daily. We pour into others and that can leave us on E (empty) after long hours, days, weeks in the shop. I’ve been successful in curating a clientele that include the CEO of their own companies, their employees, AND the spouses of their employees. It starts with one person, but is an example of how tight-knit my base is, and I prefer it this way. I think it’s so cool that my clients do the filtering of their referrals FOR ME!

“They will even ask me beforehand if I am willing to take on new clients if they feel the person would be a good fit for me. Being able to carve that niche in my professional life, while still being able to prioritize my obligations in my personal life has allowed me to feel as though I have it all. I am able to have peace throughout the day with people who have become friends and family, which makes it seem less like work. I have the honor to represent, and the support of an amazing brand that has always been so accommodating to the lifestyles and schedules of everyone in the 18.21 Man Made family. At this moment, I’m living my own definition of successful.

“Working with 18.21 has been divine alignment, they are an amazing brand. They are so meticulous in the quality of each product, and they are so well rounded and tailor to every person and every hair type. It is everything that you could need."

Angela concludes by saying that her career mantra is: “Put the client first always. The 18.21 Man Made line is timeless. Just like my uncle!”

“I HAVE THE HONOR TO REPRESENT, AND THE SUPPORT OF AN AMAZING BRAND THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN SO ACCOMMODATING TO THE LIFESTYLES AND SCHEDULES OF EVERYONE IN THE 18.21 MAN MADE FAMILY.”

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SliderCuts MARK MACIVER

OFFICIAL FRESHA BRAND AMBASSADOR

BARBER OF 20+ YEARS, AUTHOR, SPEAKER AND EDUCATOR, MARK MACIVER (AKA @SLIDERCUTS) HAS JUST BEEN ANNOUNCED AS AN OFFICIAL FRESHA BRAND AMBASSADOR . ALREADY A TRAILBLAZER IN THE INDUSTRY, MARK HAS UPGRADED TO FRESHA’S ALL-IN-ONE BUSINESS SOFTWARE TO ENHANCE HIS BUSINESS AND FIND EVEN GREATER SUCCESS IN THE INDUSTRY.

As someone who has built his own authentic brand and become a role model and leader in the barbering industry, Mark told us that he isn’t likely to partner or represent just any brand. He said: “I understand the influence that I have in the barber society, and because of this, I want to be careful of the brands I work with, to ensure that they are genuine, authentic, and really do bring value to barbers lives and businesses. For me, Fresha’s software completely passed that test, it has incredibly high standards, and it is a brand that I am happy to put my name behind and to recommend to my community.”

Mark is a big believer in and speaks well about the importance of community, and Fresha’s goal is to empower community leaders, such as Mark. He said: “I believe this is one of the reasons I was chosen for this position, because Fresha recognized that not only am I a fairly influential barber, but I care about integrity, and I truly care about my community.”

For Mark, the barbershop should be a pillar of its community, and he works to ensure that his shop gives back and helps his local community thrive and grow. One of the ways he does this is through a mentorship runner scheme he runs with local youth. He explained: “We have a handful of boys who live within a few miles of the shop, who come in every Saturday, and we mentor them, pay them for their work, and offer them helpful life skills, like teaching them how to do stock counts and counting the till. Through giving these boys this responsibility and accountability, it gives them higher confidence, helps them think better for themselves, and apply these skills to many other aspects of life. If they are wanting to, we will also teach them to cut hair, but we will also help them with whatever other goals they have in life.”

Speaking to Mark, it is clear that this is not just a philanthropy scheme to look good, he truly does care about these young lads and their success. For example, he told us that one of the boys he mentors is currently going through his GCSEs, and was struggling in one subject in particular. So, Mark paid for a tutor to help support his mentee to get through this subject. He said: “Yeah, paying for the tutor for a few months might cost £700, but if that better grade can help his life forever, then of course it is worth it. That is just a small seed which can lead him to a better, successful life, and that is always the goal. I want to show him that you don’t give up on something just because it’s difficult.”

Mark believes that more barbershops should be engaging with their communities, giving back and offering support. He said: “To me, a barbershop is where everyone comes together. We are like the spiderweb of connection from everyone, whether you’re in the corporate world to the trades. I can't think of any other business that has everybody from all walks of life that come into that same business. In the barbering world, there's no class divide, in one day, you could cut the hair of a heavyweight champion of the world, a judge, a lawyer, an accountant, a tradesman, a troubled young kid, you name it. The barbershop is where these people can come together. So, why not use that common

platform you have, to bring people together and help lift each other up?”

We asked Mark if he had any rolemodels growing up who inspired him to become the man he is today. He said: “I didn’t have just one role model specifically, but I had quite a few people who inspired me along the way. I never had one person in front of me who resembled the exact type of person I wanted to become, but there were many people who inspired different elements along the way, different puzzle pieces of me to create the person I am today.”

So, what stood out to Mark about Fresha, and how does it differ from other platforms? He said: “I went to their office in London, and I liked the fact of how many engineers they had, and that their engineers and customer service is based in London. As it gave me that reassurance that if anything goes wrong, there is a team locally based, right there, ready to help you, rather than being outsourced to a call centre where you can wait hours to speak to someone. I just really liked the fact that it is local.”

We asked Mark about how he believes this partnership will lead to elevating the Fresha brand, and improving it for barbers. He said: “I met with

Fresha’s owner, and he expressed to me that my thoughts and input will be listened to and considered. He explained to me how much thought, consideration and testing goes into every feature and element of the Fresha platform, and how much they value the feedback from industry professionals.

“For me, a leading management platform like Fresha, should be all about making life easier and take work off barbers’ hands, to make their work life easier and more efficient.”

For Mark, the key to success and growth is about being open to new opportunities and being open to new things to spark your creativity. We asked Mark – how can Fresha help unlock some of your valuable tie, and allow barbers to take advantage of new opportunities? He said: “Not only does Fresha allow you to better organise your time, and save you time in the process – which is key to allow you explore new ventures, opportunities and creative ideas, but it also offers so many business resources for free to its users that can be so inspiring and valuable when it comes to taking the next steps as a barber or business owner. Fresha is so much more than just a software.”

“A LEADING MANAGEMENT PLATFORM LIKE FRESHA, SHOULD BE ALL ABOUT MAKING LIFE EASIER AND TAKE WORK OFF BARBERS’ HANDS, TO MAKE THEIR WORK LIFE EASIER AND MORE EFFICIENT.”

Introducing the Influencers

goes by @VanDaGOAT on Instagram, and with good reason. His GOAT mentality shows in his dedication to his craft and his determination to take barbering to new heights of creative expression. Now with over 25 years of barbering under his belt, 54.5K Instagram followers, and a growing reputation for trailblazing precision artistry, Van Campbell has established himself as a powerhouse member of the Barberology team.

So, what inspires and influences

Van? He said: “I’m inspired by art, I had a scholarship to go to art school when I graduated from high school, but I went to barber school instead, I've been cutting hair since I was 10 years old when my mom bought me my first pair of clippers!

“My style was influenced by the city of Philadelphia where I’m from, coming up in the ’80s and early ‘90s my city had some of the sharpest barbers around, way before social media.”

What’s Van’s style? “Well, I’d say being original and classic. What I mean about classic is, being true to the art of barbering in a sense of clean

fades, shaves, and professionalism. The name VanDaGoat came from 1993 when I was in barber school and some of the other students used to call me GOAT because of my fades, so I would write in my barber school textbook VanDaGoat all the time and it stuck with me ever since!”

Van has been with BaBylissPRO for seven years now. He said: “I got signed with the company in 2015, Jay Majors actually told the company about me! (Shout out to Jay Majors for that plug) it has changed my life ever since.

“I love being a part of BabylissPRO and the Babyliss4Barbers team because it’s like a family over here, it’s no HATE. We all have different cutting styles, but we all support each other and push one another to be great, our clippers and other barbering tools are second to none, and this company is all about innovation! I have been cutting for over 35 years and have NEVER seen anything like the products and tools BabylissPRO has come out with before, when I think they have reached the ceiling, they make another innovative barbering tool!”

ANDY AUTHENTIC SOUTHSIDE WATERBURY, CT @ANDYAUTHENTIC

Proud of his Puerto Rican and Dominican heritage, with an avid interest in art and a deep love of family, Andy Mendoza is a social media titan with 188K Instagram followers. A renowned barber/artist with a gift for ingenious precision cuts, he showcases versatile stylings with a signature street vibe.

He says he overcame a lot to get to where he is and continues to cultivate his craft with the energy and dynamism of the hip-hop music that inspires him. Barberology educator, motorcycle aficionado, and oldschool muscle car enthusiast, Andy Authentic has earned respect and admiration for a unique combination of street cred and creative expression that points to the future of barbering.

Andy said: “I’ve always been an artist. Growing up I would draw all the time. It was my first passion. I just have a knack for making things look better, redesigning, remixing, or creating from scratch.

“My style is basically that; I see a canvas and my mind just takes me to this place where I absolutely have to improve or create.

“Today I am what I used to be scared to be as a kid; myself… I used to suppress my unorthodox personality and energy so I wouldn’t stand out so much, I just wanted to fit in. Wasn’t until after my school years that I truly embraced the real me, and it feels amazing that the barber industry celebrates who I am and what I do. I’m free.”

Andy has been a BaBylissPRO barber now for six years. “What has always attracted me to the company is the fact that they listen to the barber. They are creating and perfecting their tools based on actual barber feedback, our culture, our needs, and they respect what we have to say.”

When Andy found out he was going to have his Influencer Clipper and Trimmer, he said: “LIFE GOAL REACHED! But seriously, this has been a goal of mine ever since I learned that the hair industry existed. I had no idea there was an entire hair industry out there. Hair shows, education, Barber Battles, etc. Once I learned there was a world beyond the chair, I aspired to be at the top with the greats. I feel like this signature clipper is a celebration for all the sacrifice and hard work I’ve put in along the way.”

VAN DA GOAT PHILADELPHIA, PA @VANDAGOAT

“ONCE I LEARNED THERE WAS A WORLD BEYOND THE CHAIR, I ASPIRED TO BE AT THE TOP WITH THE GREATS. I FEEL LIKE THIS SIGNATURE CLIPPER IS A CELEBRATION FOR ALL THE SACRIFICE AND HARD WORK I’VE PUT IN ALONG THE WAY.”

“I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THE PRODUCTS AND TOOLS BABYLISSPRO HAS COME OUT WITH BEFORE, WHEN I THINK THEY HAVE REACHED THE CEILING, THEY MAKE ANOTHER INNOVATIVE BARBERING TOOL!"

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Award-winning barber Nicole Renae prides herself on her badass style. In her first year of being a licensed barber, she won over 14 trophies on the West Coast, and that’s what kicked off her career in this industry.

Now with over 11.3K Instagram followers and 130.5K fans on TikTok, she continues to reach new heights of popularity with her bold personal, and creative cutting techniques. Multiethnic and multitalented, she stands at the forefront of next-gen barbering.

We asked Nicole to tell us a little bit about what inspires and influences her style. She said: “I come from a small city on the south side of Tucson. Since I was younger, I knew I wanted to make the most out of the one life I was given. Since I was little, I’d dream about being “famous”. Now as an adult I work hard to be a “SOMEBODY” to put my name out there, help guide and motivate people to be the best versions of themselves in whatever they put their mind too! Whether that’s being a better barber or even a better person.”

Nicole has been working with BaBylissPRO for six and a half years now. She said: “What I love most about

BaBylissPRO is the love and passion this company has for the industry. They put their barbers/educators first and make sure they are happy and getting what they deserve!”

I asked Nicole how she felt when she found out she was going to have her Influencer Clipper and Trimmer. She said: “I was shocked, I didn’t expect this to happen, at least not this year!! When you’re so busy working hard things like this happen and it brings you back to reality to realize how amazing you’ve been doing and a reminder that all the hard work is WORTH IT!”

What are Nicole’s favorite elements of the BaByliss Lo-Pro FX combo? “The weight of the clipper is VERY light; the grip of the clipper is comfortable in the hand it’s my favorite tool hands down. It can get any job done that you need. They are very reliable.”

One piece of advice from Nicole? “BE YOUR BIGGEST FAN! The moment you love, support, and guide yourself to your fullest potential is the day your life will change forever. No one can wake you up every day to get you to where you need to be, but YOU!”

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“WHAT I LOVE MOST ABOUT BABYLISSPRO IS THE LOVE AND PASSION THIS COMPANY HAS FOR THE INDUSTRY. THEY PUT THEIR BARBERS/EDUCATORS FIRST AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE HAPPY AND GETTING WHAT THEY DESERVE!”

CULTURE OF SUSTAIN ABILITY

Founder of Novak Hair Studios, Benjamin Novak Hudgins, was named after his grandfather, who lived his life with a deep purpose of respecting nature. Novak Bullard was known as ‘The Honey Man’, VP of the Oklahoma Bee Association. Benjamin told us: “Novak adopted a vision of respect for the precious gifts we have been given on this planet and the passion that drove him to a long healthy life of serving for a greater cause. It didn’t take my grandfather long to open his eyes and realize that pesticides and other chemicals we were applying to our food supply were detrimental to the survival of pollinators, thus the survival of humankind.” Benjamin respects his grandfather’s legacy through running his salon with a sustainable focus. As the head of Novak Hair Studios, he told us that defining their ethos early was key: “I can’t believe I’m saying this! This week marks our five-year anniversary of opening our doors. Although, my longstanding success is defined by nearly 20 years working in the industry.

“When opening Novak Hair Studios, we felt like doing our part to make a sustainable future was not a question of if we should do it, but how we do it.”

He always felt like that businesses held a responsibility to make sustainable options feel as effortless as doing a regular business transaction. Benjamin said: “I, like most people trying to be better, did what I could when I could, but always fell short of how much of an impact I could make.”

How does he sum up the Novak Hair Studios ethos? “Novak’s mission is to support our Luxury Solo Artists (solopreneurs) in creating a top-level salon experience without sacrificing their home lives, their own health, and the health of our planet.” Sustainability is at the core of Novak Hair Studio’s 'salon community' as well as the dayto-day practicalities of running a planet-friendly business. “We have support staff to provide the best guest experiences, booking and checkingout support, shampooing support, and cleaning support.” Benjamin told us: “Access to the highest quality education in business, motivation, and skills is our focus. Also providing ease in a green salon experience by minimizing waste and reducing freshwater waste. For us, sustainability means more than just the life of the planet, it's also about optimizing life for the people who live on it.”

We asked Benjamin to list his top three favorite eco-friendly products, from conditioning treatments and creative color to shampoos and styling foams. This is what he told us: “Eufora all the way! I think it’s important to partner with likeminded brands. They're a family operated business, like us, who're committed to green initiatives and challenging the status quo through thoughtful education and salon support. SO! My first fave is the Beautifying Elixir One: DAMAGE CURE COMPLEX™. Next, is the Beautifying Serum This is my 'every client' product for healthy scalp,

BENJAMIN NOVAK HUDGINS IS A LUXURY SOLO ARTIST AND FOUNDER OF NOVAK HAIR STUDIOS .

HE’S A SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY ADVOCATE OF 20 YEARS AND EXCLUSIVELY STOCKS EUFORA ECOFRIENDLY PRODUCTS. THIS IS HIS ADVICE ON HOW TO RUN A SUSTAINABLE SALON.

START YOUR SUSTAINABLE SALON

Benjamin’s quick-fire tips for launching your sustainable journey.

1

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No change is too small!

Every sustainable choice you make makes a difference in the big picture. Just start by shifting your mindset and you’ll see foundations falling into place.

Partner with like-minded brands

Avoid big corporate brands that might green wash one brand but on the other foot, dumps dangerous chemicals in other brands they operate. Do your research!

Switch fixtures in your salon

Like facets, eco-heads at the shampoo bowls, and motion sensors on your lights.

Partner with salon recycling companies

This is an easy way to make sure your waste is being processed sustainably. I like Green Circle Salons or Terracycle.

hair, and skin. Finally, the Tame Spray. Living in a somewhat humid climate, fighting frizz and getting a flexible hold is a constant solution we need an answer for. That’s when I turn to Eufora's Tame Spray – it's great for any client whose hair has been chemically altered, but has the ultimate goal of healthy hair. Benjamin said: “The Eufora breakthrough formulations give me a scientifically backed yet sustainable approach to creating custom solutions for my salon guests’ needs. Their color also gives me more creative control than I have ever seen in a color line.”

What about the furniture in the salon? “We love our Ecoheads Shower Heads on our shampoo bowls! It makes such a big impact on water savings and controlling what is added

into our client’s hair during critical times of a chemical service. We chose to go with local craftsman in building our furniture because we wanted to support our local community that supports us and have the high quality that our hometown is known for.

“When conceptualizing the changes, I combined the greatest parts of all salon concepts in the industry. We wanted to provide a salon culture for independent stylists through next level amenities and support; a path for stylists to not only be able to create a salon experience that gave the very best in service experiences, but to do it without sacrificing their lives at home or the planet. At the core, Novak Hair Studios is here standing strong today because of the commitment we have to building better lives.” Benjamin is @ben_at_novak and Novak Hair Studios is @novakhairstudios

SUSTAIN ABILITY

“WHEN OPENING NOVAK, WE FELT LIKE DOING OUR PART TO MAKE A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE WAS NOT A QUESTION OF IF WE SHOULD DO IT, BUT HOW WE DO IT.”

EARTH MONTH IS ON THE HORIZON! THERE’S NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT TO HEED THE ADVICE OF THIS ISSUE’S ECO EXPERTS. THIS IS HOW TO START BEING AS PASSIONATE ABOUT SUSTAINABLE HAIRDRESSING AS YOU ARE ABOUT STYLING HAIR.

LUIS GONZALEZ IS AVEDA’S NORTH AMERICAN ARTISTIC HAIRCOLOR DIRECTOR, PROUD QUEER LATINO HAIRSTYLIST AND COLORIST, AND OWNER OF TWO DENVER-BASED AVEDA LIFESTYLE SALONS. HE TOLD US HOW YOU, AS A COLORIST, CAN MAKE YOUR TREATMENTS MORE ECO-CONSCIOUS.

COLOR ME CONSCIOUS

After qualifying with the Aveda Institute and Academy nearly 20 years ago, Luis began educating for a local Aveda Salon. Ten years ago, he stumbled across the perfect location for his own place. He told us that James Sanchez was the owner at the time, but: “I just called him up and said, ‘I want to buy your salon.’ We decided that with his business acumen and my practical skills, we could launch something really special. And so, VIDA was born.” Luis now heads up a talented team of 23 award-winning stylists and color experts in Highlands and Cherry Creek, Denver. He’s always been passionate about curating teams of professionals who care just as much about their clients

success. Both Vida Salons are Aveda Lifestyle Salons and champion sustainability in everything they do. An extension of the Aveda brand values, Luis’ teams pride themselves on caring for the world we live in and using the power of plants to create high-performance products and services.

Luis told us: “The proof of Aveda’s excellence lies in the power of their products – and that’s why we work with them. Every range is 100% vegan and cruelty-free and is formulated (in majority) with botanicals and superfoods. Aveda's carbon neutral shipping program offsets 100% of carbon emissions from shipping for every U.S. order placed on aveda.com.”

He continued: “My favorite Aveda color products

start with the Enlightener Powder Lightner, which is great for highlights and freehand painting. For permanent color/full coverage, I love the Full Spectrum Hair Colour range, which is 100% vegan. Next, my absolute favorite is the Aveda Vibrant by Nature color range, which I use for photoshoots. When working with natural colors behind the chair, I’ll go for permanents and then a lot more vibrant for photoshoots.” What are Luis’ most-loved tones?

“I love emerald greens and working with contrasts like a yellow or monochromatic palettes with various saturations.” How does Luis recommend colorists be more sustainable? “Use products that are naturally derived! We’re all leaving a mark on the earth and have to do our part to conserve the environment –it’ll only benefit us all as hairstylists and colorists in the long run.” What about salon owners? “Things on this larger scale will take a little longer. Start with recycling, from hair to packaging. And that includes retail packaging, bags, cups, foils, and the dishes we have for dying – everything!

“Your washers/dryers should be energy efficient. To avoid overuse, we educate our stylists on how many towels it takes to dry hair after one shampoo/ condition so they’re not causing excess laundry.

“Salon owners can also find a charity or brand to work with that promotes environmental causes. Raise money or host events to nurture that mindset of caring.” Ultimately: “It’s about creating that culture of sustainability and having that conversation multiple times. And then eventually it becomes second nature.”

Find Luis on Instagram as @luisgonzalezhaircolor

Kao Committed to Climate Neutrality

DR ELMAR MUSSENBROCK IS THE DIRECTOR OF SUSTAINABILITY & PORTFOLIO FOR THE KAO SALON DIVISION, HOME TO THE GOLDWELL, KMS AND ORIBE BRANDS. WE SAT DOWN WITH DR MUSSENBROCK DURING THE KAO GLOBAL EXPERIENCE IN AMSTERDAM TO TALK ABOUT THE KAO BRANDS’ MISSION FOR A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE.

Kao´s Environmental,, Social, and Governance (ESG) strategy has been developed and designed to serve consumers’ needs and their desire to live sustainable lifestyles that contribute to a sustainable world. The commitments and actions that contribute to that lifestyle are encompassed in the Kirei Lifestyle Plan, with which Kao strives to create a long-lasting impact on society. Kao Salon Division is committed to doing its part to bring this message and plan to salons, stylists, and their clients.

Dr. Mussenbrock’s role is to be the internal expert and external voice for the Kao Salon Division in the field of Sustainability, working in close cooperation with Kao’s ESG Division in Tokyo, and various ESG teams around the world.

Dr. Mussenbrock has over 25 years of experience in the beauty industry and joined Kao Salon Division in 2006. During this time, he has led trend and innovation identification and contributed greatly to the company’s sustainability efforts. I asked Dr. Mussenbrock to tell us a bit about how he got to where he is today. He said: “I am the son of a hairdresser; my father owned three salons. And one day he asked if I wanted to take over, and I said it just wasn’t for me. Instead, I went to university to study Chemistry. When I finished my doctorate, I went straight into the beauty industry. I had spent so much of my childhood hanging out in my father’s salons. So, it was an industry I was used to and was committed to helping and improving.

After working with a few companies in the beauty industry, Dr. Mussenbrock began his work with Kao and has been with the company for 16 years now. I asked him how the brand has evolved over those

last 16 years. He said: “Well, interestingly, Goldwell will be celebrating its 75-year anniversary this year. And looking back on those 75 years, there have been a lot of sustainability initiatives that were put in place years and years ago, much before ‘sustainability’ became such a buzzword.

commodity, it was very expensive, but they made it more affordable and sustainable by making the bottles refillable. And in 1978 KMS actually brought the first solid shampoo onto the market.”

But now, Kao is speaking up about their sustainability efforts, and leading by example in the beauty industry. One of Kao’s first priorities is to reduce waste and fight against the use of plastic. Dr. Mussenbrock said: “Our priority number one is to reduce material, to reduce packaging. I always say, what has not been produced, cannot harm the environment. Making packaging recyclable is great, but we cannot control whether people are recycling their packaging. As well, at the end of the day, plastic is made out of oil, a limited fossil raw material, and during the lifecycle of plastic a lot of carbon emissions. Using less plastic will then in turn cut your carbon footprint. The materials Kao does use, are procured in a responsible and low-impact way, to respect and protect the environment.”

“For example, Goldwell invented the first shampoo ‘eco dispenser’ back in 1957, back in the time when clients had to pay for their shampoo portion. As well, I remember as a young boy, my job was to refill little aerosol bottles with the very popular Goldwell Hairspray. At the time hairspray was such a coveted

Dr. Mussenbrock explained: “At Kao, we are committed to climate neutrality. For us, global warming is the biggest societal threat, and therefore, in everything we do, we try to reduce our emissions, from the packaging we create to the way we design formulas for products. We have devised a clever process for creating our products where ingredients don’t need to be heated to be dissolved and mixed. Saving heat means saving energy and saving energy means saving carbon emissions.

Small changes like this have helped Kao reduce their annual energy consumption of salon production by 28% vs. 2010, which in turn helps them reduce their carbon footprint.

“FOR US, GLOBAL WARMING IS THE BIGGEST SOCIETAL THREAT, AND THEREFORE, IN EVERYTHING WE DO, WE TRY TO REDUCE OUR EMISSIONS, FROM THE PACKAGING WE CREATE TO THE WAY WE DESIGN FORMULAS FOR PRODUCTS.”

B-CORP CERTIFICATION FOR GREAT LENGTHS

B CORPORATION CERTIFICATION

The grass can be greener

APRIL IS EARTH MONTH, AND SUSTAINABILITY WILL BE ON PEOPLE’S MINDS MORE THAN EVER, INCLUDING YOUR CLIENTS. IT MEANS NOW IS THE TIME TO CONSIDER HOW TO CUT YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT WITHOUT DRIVING UP COSTS.

Eco-champion Valorie Tate, the founder of Sustain Beauty Co, @sustainbeautyco, and author of the SBCo Sustainability Checklist, encourages taking it one step at a time and let each change start making an impact, getting attention, and gaining approval before moving on to the next. Here are her top three tips of where to start.

Zone in on zero waste living

We waste a lot in beauty, but there are ways to cut the amount we throw away. As well as stained, scratchy towels, broken tools and the general detritus of living, we send so much color to landfill or down the sink. Our industry throws away 15 million lbs of color each year, all of which has been paid for by you. Being more mindful about what is necessary, mixing smaller, more frequent mixes, will benefit business as well as the planet.

Rev up recycling

Beef up recycling by providing different, clearly marked receptacles, to separate paper and cardboard from plastic. Add an extra bin and label it ‘LANDFILL’ to make everyone pause before they throw their

takeaway cup in there, and encourage them to rinse it so it doesn’t contaminate the rest of the recycling. The next step is to partner with a salon waste removal specialist for that hard-to-dispose-of stuff like hair, foils, leftover color, and used color tubes.

Channel better water sense

With swathes of the country in drought, water is increasingly a precious commodity we need to stop taking for granted. Saving water is as big a priority as saving energy. Look into swapping your basins' spray nozzles for ECOHEADS, which use 65% less water and energy while actually boosting pressure. Using a filtering shower head will also cut down on impurities in the water, reducing minerals which can negatively impact hair and scalp health and they make rinsing quicker, which saves on stylist’s time as well as water.

Click the switch

A third of all hair salon energy goes toward heating water, so tackling energy use at the tank could be the most powerful thing you do to drive your bills down. Check your water temperature gauge to see if it can go down a notch or two, just hot enough that there’s no need to add cold water. Try and reduce how much and how often you launder salon materials. You may want to investigate biodegradable microfiber towels to get rid of the laundry completely.

Hot tools use almost 20% of a salon's energy, so building a culture where all kit is unplugged between use, and switching energy-draining zombie appliances, like chargers, to energy saving outlets or power strips, will see your use drop. You can also cut consumption by turning the heating thermostat down one notch, using air conditioning judiciously, installing sensors so lights don’t get left on in restrooms or cupboards, and moving away from flooding the salon with lights at night when everyone is in bed.

For more inspiration download the SBCo Sustainability Checklist at https://sustainbeauty.co/sustainablesalons-resource-hub/ Happy Earth Month!

Recognised globally for meeting high standards of performance, accountability, and transparency, on factors from employee benefits and charitable contribution to supply chain practices and input materials.

This recognition comes from B Lab UK who aim to transform the economy to benefit all people, communities, and the planet. A leader in economic systems change, their global network creates standards, and tools for business, and they certify companies who are leading the way.

The world-renowned hair extensions brand was founded in Rome, Italy, in 1992. They are the indisputable champion of quality and can proudly count the major scientific inventions in the extensions field, such as the first ultrasonic machine. Their hair is sourced in India in a traceable, ethical, and responsible way.

Great Lengths employ their own sourcing staff in India, purchasing the hair from temples personally to ensure 100% certainty of where it came from. The certification is the result of the company’s efforts to be more inclusive at all levels – from the welfare of its employees and the trust of its consumers, to working towards reducing the beauty footprint of the entire production chain.

Fabio Massimo Antonino, CEO of Great Lengths Società per azioni Società Benefit, said: “For us, creating economic value while simultaneously creating value for people and the environment has always been our approach to life. Today, the world is ready to receive this message, people need to see it expressed and acted out in as many different situations as possible. Therefore, also beyond the boundaries of Great Lengths, we would like to be perceived as ambassadors of these beliefs carrying a message of hope and pioneering change.”

GREAT LENGTHS HAS BECOME THE FIRST HAIR EXTENSION BRAND TO RECEIVE THE PRESTIGIOUS

BIOLAGE REBORN

Biolage Professional Haircare Brand

Reintroduces Itself with Sleeker, 100% Recycled Packaging and Vegan and Cruelty-Free Certified Formulas

BIOLAGE IS DOUBLING DOWN ON ITS COMMITMENTS TO THE PLANET AND ITS CONSUMERS WITH INNOVATIVE VEGAN* FORMULAS AND NEW SIGNATURE 100% RECYCLED PLASTIC PACKAGING.** THE ICONIC BRAND NOW ALSO HAS A LEAPING BUNNY CERTIFICATION FROM CRUELTY FREE INTERNATIONAL . THE NEW PORTFOLIO STAYS TRUE TO ITS WELL-LOVED FORMULATIONS WHILST BOASTING A NEW, MORE MODERN LOOK.

Biolage Professional, a worldwide leader in salon haircare since 1990, announces their commitments to a better future. As of today, Biolage’s iconic formulas will be certified cruelty free and vegan* with their signature bottles** made from 100% PCR plastic. The brand has been given the Leaping Bunny stamp of approval by Cruelty Free International, a leading organization working to end animal testing. This was a stringent process and consumers can buy all Biolage products with confidence that they meet the Leaping Bunny’s strict criteria.

Biolage’s white signature bottles**, which are now made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic, save over 30 tons of virgin plastic every year.

Altogether, these commitments are highlighted in the new sleeker look of the brand. The formulas remain unchanged; the same iconic formulas known to deliver optimum shine and softness can still be transitioned from salon to home. The entire portfolio will also feature the iconic Biolage AromaScience™ fragrance, made of a unique blend of fruits, flowers, and spices that the brand is known for.

Along with their commitments, the brand has three key goals: to enhance, elevate, and encourage consumers and pros alike:

• Enhance clients’ and consumers’ natural beauty with products that work in synergy with hair and scalp, amplifying shine, softness and fluid movement.

• Elevate the relationship between stylists and their clients with trusted products that deliver unparalleled hydration and conditioning.

• Encourage conscious efforts to minimize environmental impact with a commitment against testing on animals and eliminating virgin plastic to increase biodegradability in their formulas.

“We are so excited to finally announce this brand renovation,” says Assistant Vice President of Biolage Professional, Aurelie Croze. “We’ve been working tirelessly to revamp our brand’s look and feel and to meet consumer needs in wanting vegan, crueltyfree and sustainable beauty products. Receiving a Leaping Bunny certification from one of the premier organizations leading the charge against animal testing throughout the supply chain, is such a proud moment for the brand. We can’t wait for the new era of Biolage Professional.”

According to GlobalData, 35% of consumers actively look for cruelty-free claims on beauty products.

30% of U.S. consumers are looking for hair care

with skincare ingredients in. For example, HA and Niacinimide. Biolage Professional wanted to move in this direction with cruelty-free, vegan formulas and sustainable packaging because they know that more consumers want to support a brand that commits to sustainability. “I was so excited when the Biolage Professional team told me they were taking this huge leap!” says Biolage Professional Global Ambassador and Celebrity Stylist, Sunnie Brook. “I’ve been a fan of the brand’s portfolio for years, and couldn’t be more excited for these iconic formulas to be certified vegan and cruelty-free. I know consumers and professionals alike are going to appreciate Biolage’s efforts to move the haircare industry toward a more responsible future.”

Biolage will be putting forward its vegan, crueltyfree and 100% PCR claims as of August 1st. The updated packaging is being rolled out across salons and retailers including ULTA Beauty, Salon Centric, Amazon, JCPenney & Hair.com. Learn more about the brand’s renovation at Biolage.com

*no animal-derived ingredients

**excluding cap

Clean is the nature of AG Care

PROUDLY MADE IN CANADA, AG CARE PRODUCTS COMBINE SCIENCE AND NATURE. SELECTING THE HIGHEST QUALITY INGREDIENTS TO DEVELOP FORMULAS THAT DELIVER PURPOSEFUL RESULTS. THE ENTIRE COLLECTION IS FREE FROM DRYING SULPHATES, VEGAN AND CRUELTY-FREE.

TEN OVER TEN THE LIGHTER TRIO

Conscious beauty, with three soft hues that illuminate and fortify nails. Vegan, cruelty and gluten free.

$32.00 // tenoverten.com

AG CARE SLEEK

Transform dry hair, nourishing each strand to feel super smooth and shiny wth this hyper-rich coconut and argan infused conditioner.

$26.00 // ag.care

Sandra Shibasaki, of AG Care said: “We believe how we create our products is meaningful – from end to end. It’s how we make our products, care about our people and treat our planet.”

To give an idea of the sustainable credentials of the brand, currently, AG Care’s Plant Based Essentials Collection is found in aluminum bottles which are infinitely recyclable. The majority of the brand are in +30% PCR bottles and tubes. All shampoo/ conditioners, and nearly all stylers, and masks. AG Care offers refill pouches which use less energy to produce, rather than plastic, and also produces less for landfill. The line is 100% vegan and cruelty-free and always without drying sulfates, gluten DEA, paba, parabens and DMDMH.

Looking to the future

sleeves and HDPE bottles. Stability testing on AG products in recyclable pouches is underway. Although refill pouches are not currently recyclable as they are double film, the plastic saved by refilling bottles outweighs the impact on landfill, and the brand will continue to always looking at alternative and lesser impact sustainable packages.

AG Care was founded by a hair stylist and has been making performance-based hair care since 1989. All formulated and manufactured on site. Only the highest quality ingredients are used to develop formulas that deliver purposeful results. Impressively, since 2008, AG Care has partnered with One Girl Can, helping girls in Kenya harness their power to create gender parity and generational change.

AVEDA BOTANICAL REPAIR BONDBUILDING STYLING CREME

With a 100% vegan styling hair formula for flexible hold and multi-tasks as a hair bond builder. Smooths frizz for up to 72 hours and helps repair damage to hair while styling.

$36.00 // aveda.com

BIOLAGE STRENGTH RECOVERY REPAIRING LEAVEIN CONDITIONER SPRAY

Infused with vegan squalane, this is a lightweight leavein treatment for damaged hair that strengthens while protecting sensitized hair. This lightweight spray provides heat protection and leaves hair silky.

$24.00 // biolage.com

EUFORA CURL’N DEFINING SOLUTION

A lightweight styling foam that enhances and defines curly hair while taming frizz and fighting the effects of humidity. Creates soft, moveable and touchable curls that last.

$30.00 // eufora.net

HEY BODE 1 POLISH

One-of-a-kind hair and body balm made with Castanha oil. A lightweight formula, packed in an easy use stick. Apply to hands to melt into an oil. Tame flyaways for the perfect look, add shine and moisture to hair and skin.

$25.00 // heybode.com

“WE BELIEVE

MORE POWER MORE POSSIBILITIES

WAHL PROFESSIONAL POWER STATION™

The new Wahl Professional Power Station charges three devices at once with six different inserts for endless possibilities. We are changing the charging game and keeping your station looking clean. Mix and match the tools you need and charge three at the speed of one.