SalonEVO North America Issue 4 (October/November 2020) by Evo Enterprises Ltd

HAIR. NAILS. BEAUTY.

t NORTH AMERICA

DENEY ADAM OLIVIA SMALLEY GINGER BAY SALON & SPA BEAU NELSON THE BEAUTY ARTISAN & CO.

Midnight

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THE FINAL CUT.

ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM MIDNIGHT HE AT COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair Stylist// Ammon Carver. Make-up Artist// Deney Adam. Wardrobe// Jennifer Daniels. Products// Ulta Beauty Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

THE FINAL CUT.

YVONNE MACINNIS 13

Hair/Makeup// Yvonne MacInnis. Photography// Lindsay Adler .

THE FINAL CUT.

ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM DIVERSITY COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair Stylist// Ulta Beauty Pro Team. Make-up Artist// Deney Adam, Dmitry Potapov. Stylist// Carlton Jones. Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

THE FINAL CUT.

LIJHA STEWART WATERCOL OR COL L EC TION

Hair/ Make-up// Lijha Stewart. Model// Masha Gutic. Photography// Lindsay Adler.

THE FINAL CUT.

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR David Foster// david@barberevo.com ****

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR Andrew Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com ****

SALONEVO EDITOR

A N D R E W B R E W S T E R & D A V I D F O S T E R // C O - F O U N D E R S

Claire Macaulay// claire@salon-evo.com ****

BARBEREVO EDITOR Jenna Robertson// jenna@barberevo.com ****

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Emma Gray// emma@salon-evo.com

AS THIS YEAR CONTINUES TO BEMUSE AND BEWILDER US ALL, OUR ADMIRATION FOR THIS INCREDIBLY CREATIVE AND RESILIENT INDUSTRY GROWS MORE AND MORE BY THE DAY. Through it all, hair and beauty professionals

and educational insight to help elevate your

preverbial sleeves, taken the hit, adjusted, and got

talents, or whether it’s highlighting the work of

on with it.

some genuine industry trail-blazers to inspire you,

It’s truly amazing how much this industry has

Karen Hodgson//

adapted since SalonEVO North America launched in

karen@salon-evo.com

February of this year. Who would have thought we’d be where we are now? What odds would you

****

OFFICE MANAGER Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com ****

COVER Ulta Beauty Pro Team// Photography, Richard Monsieurs

Whether it’s providing you with unique business

from all over North America have rolled up their

have got on that? Nonetheless, the CAN do attitude and overwhelming desire to

SalonEVO is here for you. Our team has gone all-in on this edition, as they do with every edition, and we are confident that you will recognize this within the first couple of pages of reading. As we part ways with the summer that never really was, and

succeed, despite the challenges

welcome fall with open arms and

that this pandemic continues to

hopeful mindsets, please rest assured

throw up, is incredble.

that SalonEVO has got your back!

Hopefully SalonEVO can continue to inspire as much as it informs. Our

Please continue to engage with us,

fourth edition, which we are so

happy to present to you, is all about YOU.

us, as we aspire to champion this great industry. Enjoy this new edition!

STAY CONNECTED SalonEvoMag

WWW.SALON-EVO.COM COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright SalonEVO Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores. Evo Enterprises Ltd, Suite 1.7, 1 Redwood Crescent, East Kilbride, G74 5PA, United Kingdom

42 24

32 CL AIRE MACAUL AY | EDITOR

THIS EDITION OF SALONEVO BRINGS YOU CREATIVITY, INGENUITY, AND A WHOLE LOT OF HEART. OPEN UP FOR A HEALTHY DOSE OF OPTIMISM AND INSPIRATION FROM SOME OF THE SHINING STARS OF OUR INDUSTRY It gives me great pleasure to welcome you to this edition of SalonEVO, which is also my first. As both a journalist and makeup artist, I have a deep appreciation for our industry. I will endeavor to continue to bring you high-quality, industry-leading content that my wonderful predecessor Amy has supplied to you previously. I’m excited to take up the challenge! This edition of SalonEVO, we’re bringing you sunshine. We’ve gathered the finest artists in the industry. From hair and makeup to art and music, we have a healthy dose of inspiration in this issue. The diverse talents of industry pros Nick Stenson, Deney Adam, Olivia Smalley and Beau Nelson are a testament to the power of fostering talent and following your dreams. We picked the brains of some trailblazers breaking the mold in the industry – the incredible Kat Collett revealed the inspirations behind her bold looks, and Beauty Artisan and Co owner and founder Lauren Lake Petrich spills the beans on running a less-traditional business and the power of community.

It’s a brave new world, and we’re evolving with it! This issue we’re exploring the power of technology, and how the industry has adapted to the challenges of the Coronavirus. From Blushington and their resourceful switch to digital to Ginger Bay Salon and Spa’s digital processes, we have it all. We’re also delighted to bring you an interview with BeGlammed founder Maile Pacheco too! We’re bringing you fresh content from the ‘Queen of the South’ Pati Plymire, Byrd Mena and A Rod. See what these social media titans think about the future of education in the wake of the Coronavirus. Finally, a topic our team holds dear, accessibility in the industry. We spoke to two businesses who do this oh-so-right – Hairrari and Studio H Artist Group. To the outsider, these businesses couldn’t be more different, but a shared heart and appreciation for breaking down barriers unites them.

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Short ULTA BEAUTY PARTNERS WITH LOOP FROM TERRACYCLE TO COMBAT WASTE Ulta Beauty is partnering with Loop from TerraCycle to design circular packaging, combating the industry’s plastic waste problem. The concept of ‘circular design’ means that products are created to be renewable, recyclable and biodegradable and do not include any plastic The retailer will pilot a circular shopping experience as the exclusive beauty retailer for Loop, a reusable packaging pioneer. This relationship will fuel actionable improvements to packaging processes and begin to address the

sizeable beauty-waste issue. President of Ulta Beauty, Dave Kimbell, says the announcement: “marks a definitive milestone on our ongoing journey in this space and we look forward to further meeting guests needs this fall in-store and online.” Ulta Beauty is also planning a ‘Made Without’ list which will tag products free of parabens, phthalates, and 25 other chemical categories.

THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION ANNOUNCES GBAC STAR ACCREDITATION PARTNERSHIP FOR SALONS The Professional Beauty Association has partnered with the Global Biorisk Advisory Council and its GBAC STAR™ Facility Accreditation Program. This partnership will enable salons to become accredited in proper cleaning protocols, disinfection techniques, and work practices to combat biohazards and infectious disease. The partnership marks the first time the professional beauty industry is aligning on such a standardized protocol. GBAC STAR is the cleaning industry’s only outbreak prevention, response, and recovery accreditation for facilities. The partnership will allow both clients and professionals to feel safe and secure in their salons. Steve Sleeper, Executive Director of the PBA says of the partnership; “The Professional Beauty Association is excited to partner with GBAC on instituting a recognizable cleaning and disinfection accreditation seal to ensure the health and safety of salons, their staff, and clientele.”

The program will feature 20 elements ranging from standard operating procedures and risk assessments to personal protective equipment and emergency preparedness and response measures. To achieve GBAC STAR accreditation, salons must demonstrate compliance with all 20 elements through an online application with documentation and supporting evidence. GBAC STAR accreditation means that a salon has: • Established and maintained a cleaning, disinfection, and infectious disease prevention program to minimize risks associated with infectious agents like the novel coronavirus (SARS-CoV-2). • The proper cleaning protocols, disinfection techniques, and work practices in place to combat biohazards and infectious disease. • Highly informed cleaning professionals who are trained for an outbreak and infectious disease preparation and response.

CALIFORNIA SALONS REOPEN WITH HELP FROM THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION The Professional Beauty Association, the nation’s largest and most inclusive trade organization representing the professional beauty industry, has been at the frontline to help California salons reopen after sudden shutdowns in July. Working with the Governor Newsom’s office, the PBA has helped to create a roadmap for reopening California’s professional beauty businesses. The Governor’s office has expressed thanks for their collaboration and insight at this time. A tiered county reopening program has been instituted, effective today, August 31st, in which salons and barbershops can open indoors following new guidelines, and nail and esthetician services can open according to a countyspecific, four-tiered program. The PBA will continue to offer support and collaborate with the Governor’s office. Steve Sleeper, Executive Director of the PBA says: “Now that California is going back to work, the PBA will maintain its collaboration with the state, offering data, member stories, and further insights -- ensuring that the professional beauty industry continues to be represented moving forward.” Myra Reddy, the organization’s Director of Government Affairs says “We have worked tirelessly with our membership and I remain grateful for their calls, emails, and outreach. Beyond our collaborative efforts, PBA worked to ensure our California members felt empowered -- their advocacy efforts collectively created change’ this movement is about them.” The Professional Beauty Association has created a series of Recommended Guidelines to aide salons and spas, and will be soon announcing a new GBAC STAR accreditation program in association with GBAC and ISSE. The Global Biorisk Advisory Council (GBAC) is the cleaning industry’s only outbreak prevention, response and recovery accreditation for facilities, which institutes the highest level of sanitization standardization.

GOLDWELL INTRODUCES CURLS & WAVES COLLECTION Goldwell have introduced a new product line to help create the perfect wave. The Curls & Waves line of hair and styling products are part of Goldwell’s DualSenses line. Curls & Waves is designed with all hair types in mind. With over 40% of women desiring the perfect natural wave, Curls & Waves delivers flawless touchable texture. Infused with MicroPROtec Complex technology, the DualSenses Curls & Waves Shampoo and Conditioner distributes essential ingredients like Milk Protein to evenly deliver results that can be seen and felt instantly.

The FadeStopFormula works to reduce color washout during shampooing, and each of the StyleSign styling products in the collection feature Goldwell’s FlexPROtec Complex, a blend of product-specific styling polymers and bamboo proteins that help to keep hair looking and feeling natural and flexible. Additionally, the Complex contains a unique Elastomer and UV filter that work to protect hair from premature fading and the damaging effects of heat-styling and UV light. Find out more about the new collection at www.goldwell.com

MIELLE ORGANICS LAUNCH #MORETHANASTRAND CAMPAIGN All-natural skin and hair brand Mielle Organics have announced the expansion of their global philanthropic footprint with the #MoreThanAStrand campaign. #MoreThanAStrand seeks to empower women and young girls across the globe with education, entrepreneurship opportunities, and economic prosperity. Mielle Organics is taking action to support businesses struggling in the wake of the COVID-19

crisis with an up to $1 Million fund to invest in communities in North America. #MoreThanAStrand will help cover startup costs and the costs of training, tools, or other needs for Black women-owned business. Mielle Organics has also partnered with Rutgers University to provide 60 full-time scholarships. Check out Mielle Organics online at mielleorganics.com/ to learn more.

PREMIERE ORLANDO RESCHEDULED TO JUNE 2021 Premier Orlando will no longer take place this year, and instead will reconvene next year. Premier Show Group released a statement saying: “Premiere Orlando is not just an event that happens over a handful of days, it’s a community. It is OUR beauty community. The COVID-19 outbreak has had an unprecedented impact on the beauty industry, and as a result we have come to the decision to reschedule

Premiere Orlando to 2021 and take the next steps to ensure a safe and productive return to Orlando. We look forward to seeing you next year on June 5-7, 2021! Those who have purchased a show pass will be eligible for a ticket exchange or a full refund.” Visit premiereorlandoshow.biz for more details on the event, including show information and travel

H2O+ BEAUTY, COVER FX AND MAC COSMETICS SUPERSTARS LAUNCH SCIENCE LED SKINCARE LINE Joy Chen, former CEO of H2O+ Beauty, and Victor Casale, former Chief Chemist of MAC Cosmetics and co-founder of CoverFX, have announced the launch of Pure Culture Beauty, the first skincare brand using data and science to deliver a customized skincare regimen to consumers. Taking an innovative approach to skincare, the brand offers personalized products designed to target the individual’s skin microbiome and improve the its overall health. The product line utilizes clean, active ingredients designed to work as a system to enhance the skin’s microbiome. Each of the products has a custom formula that will meet the users’ skin needs. Pure Culture Beauty has partnered with DNA Genotek and Diversigen. The partnership will give users a complete understanding of the makeup of their skin to better treat and target issues. For more information on the brand, visit pureculturebeauty.com

A Cut

ANDIS PROFOIL® LITHIUM TITANIUM SHAVER IN PREMIUM COPPER FINISH Andis has released its popular Profoil Lithium Titanium Shaver in a stylish new metallic copper finish. Gold titanium hypoallergenic foil gives a smooth, irritation-free shave, and a Lithium-Ion battery provides constant power and up to 80 minutes of runtime on a single charge. Weighing less than 5oz, the shaver is comfortable for allday use. Perfect for finishing styles without the straight razor mess.

BIO-FLEX BASS BRUSHES The handle of the new BIO-FLEX is made from durable plant starches that will last for years, and 95% biodegradable. With flexible pins and a unique fluid design, it’s a perfect tool to effectively detangle the hair, as well as for styling and grooming.

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ULTA BEAUTY COLOR CLIQUE EYE SHADOW TRIO

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Ulta’s Color Clique Eye Shadow Trio comes in six colorways expertly put together just for you. Each eye shadow trio is carefully curated to go perfectly together.

If you use foil to soak off nail polish, this is the product for you. Never waste time pre-tearing foil, with the BADASS Nail Assistant. Its compact design fits on any workstation, and its stainless-steel construction makes it easy to replace foil and tear foil to the perfect length.

$12.00// ulta.com

TRISSOLA FOREVER ENDS

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Trissola Forever Ends repairs frayed ends while adding shine and manageability. The high antioxidant ingredients make hair stronger and more resilient to future damage. Forever Ends protects hair against daily styling and environmental damage for up to 4 weeks.

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NOVALASH SENSITIVE EYES LASH ADHESIVE

LAKME TEKNIA ORGANIC BALANCE HYDRA-OIL

Perfect for use on clients with sensitive eyes as well as for lower lash extensions, this lowfume and non-irritating adhesive is formulated for increased durability and flexibility.

Lakme Teknia is the new way of thinking about haircare products. Teknia inspires conscious beauty by creating rituals that are 100% sustainable, organic, vegan, and eco-friendly. Teknia looks towards ingredients that safeguard our health and that of the planet.

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AMERICAN CREW® MATTE CLAY American Crew® Matte Clay allows users to effortlessly shape almost any style. This texturizing formula provides buildable texture, a workable medium hold, and a silky matte finish.

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TAKARA BELMONT DIAMOND STITCH ELEGANCE CHAIR Featuring luxuriously quilted upholstery with white diamond stitching, the Apollo 2 Icon marks the evolution of a barbering furniture icon. This restyled addition to the Apollo 2 collection adds even more eye-catching appeal. Available in a wide range of colours. Choose from a traditional hydraulic or motorised base to ensure optimum maneuverability.

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COLORTRAK MIDNIGHT SHIMMER STYLIST KIT Sparkle like a star this holiday season with Colortrak’s new hair coloring tool kit! This glittering kit is the perfect holiday gift for your favorite stylist! Includes: 2 golden glitter croc-clips, 50 pop-up foil sheets, 1 gold liquid glitter feather bristle brush, and a 6.7 oz continuous spray bottle.

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WAHL 1919 POMADE

KBSHIMMER CUTICLE OIL PEN

The 1919 pomade has the perfect blend of shape, hold, and fragrance. When applying add a small amount to damp or dry hair for silky-smooth styles that lasts for hours and hours.

This pen contains a luxe oil blend of avocado oil, shea butter, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, evening primrose oil, argan oil, jojoba, olive oil and Vitamin E that, will make cuticles smooth, lush, and hydrated. The convenient twist pen ensures a precise and mess free application every time. Available in 7 scents.

The water-based formula rinses out the first time, without leaving a trace of residue.

$19.00 // wahlpro.com

DOLL 10 R.E.M SMOOTH ASSIST RESTORATIVE EYE MOUSSE A little goes a long way with this intensely hydrating whipped eye treatment. Packed full of time-released hydrators, probiotics and collagen building peptides, this treatment is clinically proven to turn back the clock after just one use!

$6.00// kbshimmer.com

GOLDWELL TOPCHIC PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR

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Topchic is the permanent alkaline hair color for superb color results. Infused with hydrolyzed wheat protein and panthenol to add strength and shine to hair. Impeccable quality.

The first revolutionary waterless, all-in-one hand and foot treatment to incorporate keratin, the BODIPURE Keratin Gloves leave skin soft and moisturized, and nails stringer.

Durable color. Get the desired effect. Accurate. Formulated with Color Link, a patented technology that allows color molecules to “link” together.

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The gloves are touchscreen friendly and are formulated with 100% active vegetable ingredients derived from renewable resources.

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MIA SECRET FRENCH MANICURE This exquisite French Manicure nail polish provides an incredible long wear time. Available in over 150 colors, whether you’re looking for bold blues or natural neutrals, there’s a polish for you. Fast drying and easily applied, and with a selection of finishes, these polishes are the ones for you.

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QUALITY TOUCH BADASS ASSISTANT Save time and money with every color service with the BADASS Assistant. No matter the length of hair, minimize waste by tearing foil to the perfect length, with this compact tool. The durable steel cradle is available in black, white, or silver!

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CANGAROO COSMETIC SHARPENER

Save time and money on every hair color service!

Cangaroo Cosmetic Sharpener has several innovative features. The reusable or replaceable pouch provides a better method of avoiding the mess of waxy cosmetic shavings. The pouch itself has plenty of capacity for daily cosmetic pencil sharpening.

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Hair/Makeup// Deney Adam. Model// Susanne Bartsch. Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

Whether we wear makeup, apply it to others or just appreciate the artform, we all know the power behind it. We have invited the best and brightest makeup artists to tell us why they do what they do. From editorial to celebrity, runway and everything behind the scenes, these inspiring artists will be spilling their secrets and sharing words of wisdom.

Make It Up “TREAT YOUR MAKEUP LIKE JEWELRY FOR THE FACE. PLAY WITH COLORS, SHAPES, STRUCTURE – IT CAN TRANSFORM YOU.” - FRANCOIS NARS.

The Art of Artistry MAKEUP ARTIST DENEY ADAM OOZES CREATIVITY. FROM MUSIC TO MAKING A DIFFERENCE, SALONEVO EXPLORES THE MIND BEHIND SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S MOST INSPIRED LOOKS. Deney Adam is the epitome of “multitalented.” With a profoundly creative core, his works as a makeup artist range from impeccably clean to completely ballistic. He’s a member of the Ulta Pro team and a renowned makeup artist; his creations have been seen everywhere from a magazine’s pages to the displays at a museum. For Deney, becoming a makeup artist was a happy accident. With a creative brain for art and music, his parents encouraged him to go to school. He settled on art school. “I went to art school and studied fashion. I hated it. I loved the drawing elements, but there was so much more to it that I just didn’t enjoy. So here I was at 18 years old, trying to find a job”. Luckily for Deney, after explaining the situation to a friend who managed a MAC counter, he was offered a job, and his love for makeup blossomed from there; he’s never looked back! Looking at Deney’s portfolio feels something like staring into a vortex of raw creativity. His looks are bold, textured, unique. His works are designed to break boundaries and challenge the viewer. “I love surrealism in my art,” he says, “but equally, I want everything I do to have a purpose; I won’t throw everything on a face.” Deney laughs, “Sometimes, it may look like I’ve put everything on [a face], but everything has a purpose!” Like many of us, Deney does look back on his past works to find inspiration. “I was going through my Facebook history and saying ‘What was I thinking?’” he laughed. “There’s one look I did where I attached Barbie dolls to a woman’s face… I think I need to bring that one back again!”. Deney’s work is – to put it simply – perfect. Intentional. His detail orientation is a quality of

I LOVE SURREALISM IN MY ART, BUT EQUALLY, I WANT EVERYTHING I DO TO HAVE A PURPOSE; I WON’T THROW EVERYTHING ON A FACE. SOMETIMES, IT MAY LOOK LIKE I’VE PUT EVERYTHING ON [A FACE], BUT EVERYTHING HAS A PURPOSE!” 34

which he’s deeply aware. “I’m a total perfectionist, it’s my downfall!” he says, “When it comes to makeup, even if it’s a mess, it’s a perfect mess. Every detail needs to align with what’s in my head perfectly. Even if it doesn’t look perfect to someone else, it’s perfect to me!”. Creating fantastical and offbeat looks takes a very creative mind. “I find inspiration from all over,” Deney says, “but I don’t take pictures or anything, I feel like it limits me. I’ll take a mental image and then interpret it my way!”. Deney’s work often features textures and objects that may not usually sit on a face. Some of these items he makes himself, others he thrifts or buys in prop stores. “I collect random things; I call them my tchotchkes – I have a whole box of them! I can dig through the box and find inspiration from an item I’ve forgotten I had!”. u

“I’M A GAY BLACK MAN. WE’VE ALL SEEN THE INJUSTICE IN THE COMMUNITY. I HAVE A PLATFORM, AND I WANT TO HELP IN ANY WAY I CAN” Deney is a member of the Ulta Pro Team. “I love the balance of working in the consumer realm,” he says. “I love clean skin. I love more tapered back makeup, and I think it’s a great marriage where I can do my crazy thing and then work with Ulta and create these amazing, beautiful images”. With his skills, creativity, and drive, Deney could have partnered with any makeup brand. The people behind Ulta were a significant factor in him choosing to align himself with the brand. “I’ve worked on a lot of fashion shows, and with a lot of makeup artists. It’s always felt like work. I’ve had many fun work experiences, but with Ulta, it’s different. It feels like a creative space, which is so valuable. When you feel like you’re working, you can’t create.” Deney speaks fondly of the camaraderie behind the brand. “With Ulta, it feels like a bunch of friends hanging out and playing,” he says excitedly, “from the first moment of working with the team, I knew it was amazing, and I feel the same three years on.”

The COVID-19 pandemic meant that the team needed to be adaptive with their content. On this new way of working, Deney says, “I miss the team so much because of the pandemic. We’ve had a shift towards the virtual world and concentrated a lot more on social media. I’m so glad; I need that creative outlet; otherwise, I’ll go crazy!” For many of us, the feeling of needing to be working and creative will be a familiar one. “It’s a bit of a problem for me,” Deney says, “if I’m not creating, I don’t know how to chill. But I’m learning to! This pandemic has been a slap in the face to chill!”. For some, the pandemic has allowed them a chance to rest, but for Deney… “Was I grateful for the rest? No! Not at all! I’m a people person!” he laughs. In addition to his makeup artistry, Deney is also a musician. “I creative direct all my music videos. I’m so fortunate to have incredible fashion designers and stylists around me to help me achieve the look that I want from them.”

Masters Collection (Right) Hair Stylist// Ammon Carver. Make-up Artist// Deney Adam. Wardrobe// Jennifer Daniels. Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

As with his makeup, Deney’s music has purpose. “I’m a gay Black man. We’ve all seen the injustice in the community; the trans community in particular, faces some incredibly tough prejudice. I have a platform, and I want to help in any way I can”. As a gay Black man thriving in two creative fields, Deney is undoubtedly a figure that many look up to. He shies away from the word ‘role model,’ but acknowledges the impact that seeing someone you identify with succeed is important. “It’s too much pressure on one person to be a role model. I’m just living my life, but I feel that role models should come from different sources and outlets. I think that makes you a more rounded person.” Two of Deney’s role models are celebrity hairstylist Nick Stenson and ‘Queen of the Night’ Susanne Bartsch; “Nick Stenson is my boss, this man,” he sighs. “I would love to have his work ethic. I think he’s a superhero. He’s always being pulled in a million different directions and is always friendly and composed!”

“WITH ULTA, IT FEELS LIKE A BUNCH OF FRIENDS HANGING OUT AND PLAYING, FROM THE FIRST MOMENT OF WORKING WITH THE TEAM, I KNEW IT WAS AMAZING, AND I FEEL THE SAME THREE YEARS ON.” “Susanne is also a superwoman! No matter what pressure she’s under, she will show up, and she will be on. It’s like a switch – behind the scenes, it could be total chaos, but then you push her out the door and she’ll be entirely present. I would love to have that!” While he works closely with Susanne Bartsch, Deney’s interests lie in makeup’s editorial and fashion side, rather than traditional celebrity work. “I like to create things. Often when working with a celebrity, this can become a little limited because there’s a lot at stake, and celebrities may not want to take risks.” Deney’s favorite look to date was on Susanne Bartsch. “Susanne had this outfit for the Blonde fashion show in 2013, 2014… we had no idea what to do with her makeup. She had this incredible outfit with two eyes in it, so we created this mask with eyelashes. It’s my favorite look of all time!” Working with designers provides more of a creative outlet to Deney. “I’ve worked with so many designers at this point that I’ve lost track,” he laughs. “I like the creative aspect. They’ll give you an idea and let you run with it and make it your own. Of course, there can be some tweaks and adjustments, but the bottom line is that you have control of what you’re creating. It’s most likely if they’ve brought you in to do a job, they share your vision anyway.”

A man of many talents, Deney has also done runway work. One of his favorite shows was Oscar de la Renta, “I remember that show so well. It was amazing!”. Runway work is, in its nature, very different from editorial. “It’s always chaos. You get to take your time and perfect things on a shoot, but the pace of a fashion show is like lightspeed!” he laughs. “That’s why I don’t do it anymore; it’s stress and anxiety! You’re being pulled in a million directions; you have five minutes to do a full face of glitter or something, it’s madness! Runway and editorial are like night and day!”. One highlight of Deney’s career is working on Susanne Bartsch’s exhibition at the Museum at FIT. “My biggest’ pinch me’ moment was working on the FIT exhibition. It was crazy; we had a month to do full makeups on about 120 mannequins. I had about 15 assistants! All I was thinking was, ‘I need to do this, it needs to be done perfectly!’. The night of the show, everything slowed down. The month just flew by, but on the night, I was like, ‘I really just did that!’”. Another highlight of his career was working with Steven Klein to create material for the Hunger Games. Klein is a hugely influential figure to Deney. “I idealize him as a makeup artist. His work is out of this world, and he produces the most incredible photography! To work with him was just incredible!”. •

I’VE WORKED ON A LOT OF FASHION SHOWS, AND WITH A LOT OF MAKEUP ARTISTS. IT’S ALWAYS FELT LIKE WORK, BUT WITH ULTA, IT’S DIFFERENT. IT FEELS LIKE A CREATIVE SPACE, WHICH IS SO VALUABLE”

The Beauty Artisan & Co THE BEAUTY ARTISAN AND CO ARE PAVING THE WAY IN THE INDUSTRY. THEIR BUSINESS MODEL ALLOWS ARTISTS GREATER CONTROL OF THEIR BUSINESSES AND OFFERS SUPPORT TO BOOT. CLAIRE MACAULAY SPOKE TO FOUNDER LAUREN LAKE PETRICH ABOUT THIS INNOVATIVE COMMUNITY.

The Beauty Artisan and Co are a vibrant community of independent artists housed under one roof. Founded in 2017, the collective evolved from founder Lauren Lake Petrich’s desire to create an artist first community that the booth-rental heavy pocket of Southern California was lacking. What makes Beauty Artisan and Co different from their competitors is their business model. The business is built on leasing agreements, with

flexible options offered to stylists from hourly to longer term leases. Each artist under the woodenbeamed roof is an independent business owner, supported by the model. The Beauty Artisan and Co model has proved so popular that there’s a waiting list to lease a room, and the team are in the process of renovating a second location to accommodate the demand. u

Lauren Lake Petrich owns and runs the business with husband Noah. The dynamic duo work well together to ensure the business is running at its best. “I’m the dreamer”, Lauren laughs “Noah’s the how-to guy. Sometimes he needs to keep me grounded with what we can and can’t do…” she pauses “We joke that I’m the yes girl and he’s the no guy, which just fits because his name is Noah. He keeps my feet on the ground, which we need in the business!” The duo’s management style is community focused, and without pretense or ego. One of the values of the business is servanthood, a concept that the management team stands by. “The word boss is a big no-no around these parts”, Lauren says “our artists work for themselves and their clients, not for us. We prefer to be seen as a peer or mentor. Really, I think we work for them – if anything they’re our bosses! We want to meet their expectations.” Every artist who rents space is vetted and interviewed by the team to make sure they’re qualified and fit well with the dynamic. “We’re not looking for perfection, but we do require a level of professionalism”, Lauren says “The personality of the artist is really important too – we look for people who believe in our core values of servanthood, artistry, excellence, integrity and community.” The business has a low turnover of renters, a testament to everyone involved. The vibe of Beauty Artisan and Co is a heady blend of century-old Americana and homely charm. This charisma isn’t lost on those who visit the location. “When people walk into the business, we often hear them talking about the vibe and the energy of the place. It’s partly the magnificence of the location and the interior, but I always correct them and say that the vibe comes from the people. They’re the heart of the business, 100%, I believe that to my core.” The original Murrieta location is a historic landmark; it was the original schoolhouse for the town. When Lauren and Noah took on the location, it had not been well taken care of. “We tried to honor the historic integrity of the building and all that it represented”, Lauren says “We wanted to create this American feel. There’s a real vision that goes into it – we design and implement everything that we can ourselves.” Noah has extensive construction and design experience, which makes it easier for the pair to make their dreams a reality.

What the pair could never have dreamed, however, was the impact of the Coronavirus. “We were shut down, just like the rest of the world.” Lauren sighs, “It was a difficult time for the industry. We really felt for the booth renters who didn’t have the guidance or mentorship to run a business with a high profit margin to support themselves.” With independent contractors and business owners not initially receiving financial aid, the situation was dire. For some booth renters in the industry, landlords demanded rent at a time when artists couldn’t receive income. “It was just devastating” Lauren says, “we were watching salons fail constantly. We came up with a compromise.” The business requested 30% of their normal rent and decided to credit it back for each week paid once everything opened up again. “We did that for about ten weeks, we were taking from our future to support the overheads of today”. Little did Lauren know that the community she had fostered so closely would look after their own. “We began to receive offers of help from our friends in the community. Everyone knew that this was Noah and I’s only form of income and pulled together to help.” Selflessly, Lauren recommended that those who wanted to help sponsored their renters to keep them in business. “We had some clients who paid up to six weeks of discounted rent to help an artist keep their position and help the business too. It was really beautiful and touching.” The logo of Beauty Artisan and Co is of a caribou, a choice which proved more apt than Lauren could have anticipated. “When we chose the logo, we just wanted something American traditional” Lauren says, “more and more people started asking about it, and as I started to research it I learned that the caribou is the only deer species where the females grow antlers. They’re native to North America, and they care for each other, and their young. It was serendipitous.” So, what’s next for Lauren, Noah, and this remarkable business? “I don’t see us stopping soon”, Lauren says, “we’re cultivating the idea of a third location, and eventually we would love to create opportunities for others to grow into salon ownership. We want to see others take the wheel and live their dreams, and I would love to be part of creating the opportunity for them to do so.” “We just want to keep taking care of people that’s the heart of it, but the sky’s the limit!” •

THE WORD BOSS IS A BIG NO-NO AROUND THESE PARTS, OUR ARTISTS WORK FOR THEMSELVES AND THEIR CLIENTS, NOT FOR US. REALLY, I THINK WE WORK FOR THEM – IF ANYTHING THEY’RE OUR BOSSES!”

THE PERSONALITY OF THE ARTIST IS REALLY IMPORTANT, WE LOOK FOR PEOPLE WHO BELIEVE IN OUR CORE VALUES OF SERVANTHOOD, ARTISTRY, EXCELLENCE, INTEGRITY AND COMMUNITY.”

Verses in Versatility MAKEUP ARTIST | PHOTOGRAPHER | BUSINESSMAN | ARTIST BEAU NELSON DOES IT ALL, AND WITH STYLE! FROM SMALL-TOWN BEGINNINGS TO CONSULTING FOR HUGE MULTINATIONALS BRANDS, BEAU LETS US SEE A LITTLE SLICE OF THE JOURNEY.

“I’M DRAWN TO ART THAT I CAN’T IMMEDIATELY CREATE MYSELF. THAT SPARKS SOMETHING IN ME; I FIND AS MUCH VALUE IN THE JOURNEY AS THE FINISHED PRODUCT.”

Beau Nelson is the epitome of an all-rounder, but not in the ways you may think. His skillset exists in the parameters of ‘Jack of all trades, master of all.’ From makeup to photography, art to production, Beau has dedicated his life to creativity. Beau’s interest in creating art through makeup began at an early age. “I was fourteen when I started doing makeup,” he says, “Sixteen when I started working on a makeup counter. When I was eighteen – on my birthday actually – I interviewed for a counter manager job with NARS and got it! I don’t think they realized how old I was!” he laughs. Beau’s love of the medium initially began as an outlet to express himself, “I’ve always been interested in fashion. I’m from a small town, and there wasn’t much opportunity for someone creative like me. Makeup became the first thing I could teach myself.” Beau recalls his early sources of inspiration, “I always bought men’s fashion magazines and began to branch out to women’s publications like Vogue and Allure. I remember reading through and becoming fascinated by the products. I was becoming more fascinated by the products than the makeup looks.” Being from a small town meant that Beau would need to travel two and a half hours to the nearest MAC counter. “I thought it was all so cool, and I loved all the visuals that went along with it.” he laughs, “I finagled my way into a MAC discount. I would order the products at 40% off and then charge my friends full price and keep the difference! I was like AVON rep, but a little higher tier!” These years were formative for Beau; “It was around this time that ‘Making Faces’ by Kevyn Aucoin came out. It was almost like a Bible to people around my age. Now I had the chance to read about how to achieve the looks I was seeing in magazines and know which products to try to find.”

From a small-town creative to the artistic powerhouse he is today, Beau has achieved a lot, “I’ve always gone for what I set my mind to. I’m beginning to see that I was more like that when I was younger. It’s the only way to be; it’s the only way to reach your goals.” A purely creative brain would not have taken Beau to the heights he has achieved today. He also has strong business acumen. “I’m an artist at heart, a creative. But I also have a business brain. Business and art have always been fused for me – to me, creating something artistic is great, but I also want to create something others will desire. Whether I’m making a piece of art that people will want to buy or a makeup look that will bring out the best aspect of a person, they want that feeling.” He continues, “I try to use my art in whatever form it is to create feelings and desire. It’s always a blend of art and commerce. I need to create something that’s going to fulfill me but also earns me money. Everything that I do usually starts out that I’m doing it because I want to do it, but I’ll quickly find a way to monetize it. It’s the 21st Century - we’ve got live!” In addition to his makeup artistry, Beau is an artist. “I went through a pretty rough time a few years ago. When I was starting to heal, I realized I needed to concentrate on things that made me feel good. One of those things was visiting museums and art shows and spending time with myself.” From these artistic spaces, Beau realized he valued process-oriented art. “I’m not interested in a square on a canvas, but something which uses intricate skills or something like that… well, that fascinates me. I’m drawn to art that I can’t immediately create myself. That sparks something in me; I find as much value in the journey as the finished product.” u

“I’M NOT INTERESTED IN A SQUARE ON A CANVAS, BUT SOMETHING WHICH USES INTRICATE SKILLS OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT… WELL, THAT FASCINATES ME.”

Looking at Beau’s works’ complexity, from his photography to his artistry, his inspirations are not so much a shout, but a whisper in a style that remains purely his own. “I describe my mind as a series of transparencies,” he says, “if I see anything I like or anything that inspires me, I capture it in my memory banks. It might be a leaf or a crystal, or anything. I’ll take note of it and see something else I like, and these transparencies will slide over each other and sandwich into one thing. That amalgamation of all these other things becomes my art; colors, textures, they come together to create something new.” Beau also paints famous faces such as Kristen Stewart and Christina Hendricks but can sometimes find celebrity work stifling. “The real art of doing celebrity work is figuring out how to make your client happy, and then make yourself happy at the same time. There will be times when you’ll go into a job and work with a strong personality and need to do what they want, and sometimes it won’t look right to you. And that won’t feel good to you.” He says, “nothing is worse than leaving a job and feeling defeated that you could not deliver what you envisioned. My clients’ opinions matter deeply to me, but the one opinion that matters most is my own.” He laughs, “That sounded negative; it’s just a matter of finding the way to make myself feel good within the confines of what they want. Some clients give me full freedom; that’s the kind of client I tend to attract.” Beau offers some tough love to makeup artists; “Clients are not your friends. Period. Of course, you can be friendly with them, you can have a great time with them and build lovely memories with them, but they are not your friends. You need to show up on time and do the job you need to do. One day they could decide to move on from you. You might have your feelings hurt a few times; you need to learn to navigate that space.” While Beau’s origins lie in makeup artistry, it is not how he identifies: “I see a lot of makeup artists who are entrenched in the world of makeup, that’s all they see. I love that quality in people, but it’s not me. I function as a makeup artist, but I’ve realized that I identify more as a creative director”. Indeed, Beau can turn his hand to much more than makeup. He has a much fuller involvement in

the processes of his shoots than an artist generally does; “I wanted to become a retoucher and be able to get the results I wanted on my own images that I could see in a magazine. I wanted to become a photographer so that I could take the picture myself. If I can do all these things, I can control the process of my own brand or the brand I’m working with; it’s easier and faster.” Beau’s business acumen comes into play in his interest in production too. “I launched my first makeup line when I was 19 or 20, which was carried in Holt Renfrew, where I was working at the time.” He says, “I’d wanted to create a makeup line since I was 15; I’ve always been interested in that kind of thing. I later moved onto the manufacturing side; I’ve worked on all the makeup production stages and have consulted for Max Factor and Covergirl.” Impressively, he can create a product entirely by himself, “Obviously, you’re sourcing laboratories and packaging people, but I can source the packaging, create it, decorate it. Come up with an entire idea from start to finish. I can shoot the advertising campaign and retouch it. I’ll do the makeup for it.” It’s clear that Beau knows the industry inside and out; “I can walk into a store and pick up a product, and most of the time, can tell where it’s been made.” He laughs, “I know too much. Sometimes when the curtain’s pulled back, you can lose some of the fantasy elements, but I find it absolutely fascinating. I like to know things.” With such an impressive career, Beau takes the time to appreciate it. “It’s important to acknowledge where you’ve come from,” he says, “I think it’s so important to celebrate your wins too. I have to actively concentrate on that.” “I do this process where I allow a couple of minutes when I wake up and before I sleep just to let all the positives from the day sit in my heart for a few seconds, things I’m proud of. You don’t need to spend all day thinking about it, but if you don’t acknowledge yourself, you’re not building any self-worth.” So what’s next for this creative powerhouse? “I’ve done almost everything that I’ve wanted to do as a makeup artist, but there are so many other things that I want to do. I’m just getting started.” •

“THE REAL ART OF DOING CELEBRITY WORK IS FIGURING OUT HOW TO MAKE YOUR CLIENT HAPPY, AND THEN MAKE YOURSELF HAPPY AT THE SAME TIME… MY CLIENTS’ OPINIONS MATTER DEEPLY TO ME, BUT THE ONE OPINION THAT MATTERS MOST IS MY OWN.”

SOMETIMES WHEN THE CURTAIN’S PULLED BACK, YOU CAN LOSE SOME OF THE FANTASY ELEMENTS, BUT I FIND IT ABSOLUTELY FASCINATING. I LIKE TO KNOW THINGS.”

Behind the Magic HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST KRISTIN KAIDE SHARES WITH SALONEVO THE REALITIES OF WORKING BACKSTAGE AND THE VALUE SHE FINDS IN THE EXPERIENCE.

This time last year, I had just quit my full-time job in a salon to pursue my business as a hair and makeup artist for media production and events. A month after that I went to London to train at the Kevin Fortune Academy and stayed in Europe for a few weeks on the off chance that someone would let me work on their teams at London Fashion Week. I did have some experience working at New York Fashion Week and smaller shows in other cities, but getting on a team in London where I had no prior connections was a huge reach. Thankfully, that happened. If you’re wondering what it takes to work runway shows, that’s it. It’s betting on yourself. It’s taking the risk to travel and set up meetings with agents. It’s countless hours of working for free to build your portfolio just so you can get a meeting with those agents. It’s a lot of anxiety and uncertainty. If you get a “yes,” I can almost guarantee that it’s going to be last minute and you better be prepared

for it. It’s being okay with being an “option,” and reminding them that you showed up anyway (to that city) and you’re ready to work, even when they said no. It’s getting used to hearing no, or worse, hearing nothing at all. It can be a lot of heartache and disappointment. You’re working long hours and lugging your heavy kit around big cities. It’s stressing about missing that once in a lifetime phone call because your international sim card doesn’t work in Paris as well as it said it would. It’s wondering if you just spent thousands of dollars to stay in a city across the world after quitting your job for nothing. But it’s also magic. It’s a room full of people putting their life’s work into a beautiful fleeting moment. The weirder the show, the more rewarding it is to work on. It’s kind of like an inside joke where you know everyone on the outside will never understand it, but that’s exactly why you do it. Not a single detail is overlooked.

“WORKING IN THE SALON IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT DYNAMIC THAN WORKING ON SET OR BACKSTAGE. IN THE SALON, YOUR CLIENT IS THE CLIENT.” When you watch the key artist demo the first model it’s nothing short of performative art. You bear witness to the way they vocalize their inspiration while their hands dance through the hair and the ease and precision that they apply makeup with. The creativity and brilliance you’re exposed to in these moments is why you sacrifice so much to be there. It’s not a room where you’re allowed to be average. You are there to be exceptional and you are surrounded by exceptional artists. At the same time, part of your job is almost to be unseen. You are not there to show off and get noticed. You MUST understand that it’s not about you and walk in the door with a team attitude. Unlike in the salon where someone brings an inspiration photo and you make it work for their hair type, face shape etc., there is no customizing or interpretation backstage. Whatever the inspiration was you copy to a T. What I love about our industry is all the avenues I get to work in that are vastly different. I have worked in salons, runway shows, on set for photo and video productions, and as an educator for Moroccanoil. Working in the salon is a completely different dynamic than working on set or backstage. In the salon, your client is the client. I get the opportunity to form unique bonds with people I would have never crossed paths with in traditional social structures. I find it so gratifying to be allowed into people’s lives the way we do behind the chair. They share some of the deepest struggles and celebrations with you. I did not want to give up those relationships when I started my business. After I left the previous salon I’m lucky to have found a salon that supports everything I do outside of it. I still take clients at Andreas Hogue Salon and it has been nothing but a blessing to be part of their team, especially with the tumultuous year it has been.

“IF YOU’RE WONDERING WHAT IT TAKES TO WORK RUNWAY SHOWS, IT’S BETTING ON YOURSELF. IT’S TAKING THE RISK TO TRAVEL AND SET UP MEETINGS WITH AGENTS.” 47

Working on set your client is not the person in your chair. Your client is whoever hired you, most likely in production and their client is the ad agency who was hired by the brand. The dynamic is very different in this case. There is a lot more prep involved with a video or photo shoot than someone outside might realize. It’s all about telling a story and each person on set has their role to play. For a video to be a success everyone has to be very efficient at their role. It’s a team effort. Working on a fashion photoshoot it’s usually a smaller team than video but the dynamic is similar. My favorite part is always the last look. By then everyone has full trust in each other and we tend to get the best, most creative shots. It’s not even about the image at that point- which, obviously is the point of the whole shoot- but there is an energy around collaborating with other people and creating something that didn’t exist before you were all in the same room. I honestly struggled to write this because it seems so frivolous to talk about fashion and beauty through times like these. But as I’m writing, I’m starting to remember why I was there in the first place. It has nothing to do with the glamorous life that the world sees when they think of fashion shows. Whether you’re doing hair or makeup, being backstage is a sport that everyone is not cut out for. Just like anything you sacrifice and train for the reward is not from some trophy you use to show off to people, it’s the experience itself and what it taught you. If I could leave you with anything, I would tell you to say yes to whatever opportunities come your way and deal with the consequences later. You will never know your true potential until you put yourself in new and sometimes terrifying positions. Your dreams are worth the risk.

EVA QUILEZ// @evaqmakeup PHOTOGRAPHY// David Arnal

RIGO YEPIZ // @ry_fx

BOLD, BRAVE, BREATHTAKING. THIS ISSUE, WE WANTED TO SHARE WITH YOU THE TRAILBLAZERS OF THE INDUSTRY. Travelling the roads less followed, these individuals don’t conform to the norm, whether it’s through pursuing outlandish styles, breaking new ground in their careers, or redefining our definitions of beauty.

ROBERT BRAID// @r.braid

BRANDON GAUNT// @beautybybrandong

ANDRES LONDONO// @andresmakeup_

IMOGEN HEARTS// @imogenhearts

ELLIE HANDMCCREADY// @ellie35x

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CREATIVE MAKEUP ARTIST JESSICA PAGAN TELLS SALONEVO ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND HER INCREDIBLE MAKEUP LOOKS AND HOW A LOVE OF ART AND CULTURE BROUGHT HER TO HER CRAFT. The name “Glitz, Glam and Gore” came from a need to describe my craft and the services I offer. I’ve always been known for doing a little bit of everything from glittery looks (Glitz) to Glam looks (Glam) and SFX makeup (Gore). It just seemed to fit! Makeup wasn’t always on the cards for me. Artistry was always what I was into - my passion for artistry goes all the way back to when I was in grade school. I was 12 years old when I started sketching cartoon characters that I grew up watching on TV. As I grew older, my passion for art grew stronger. Sketching was therapeutic to me and proved to be an outlet too. I love art and for a while I actually wanted to be an art teacher. I was introduced to face painting when I was 17 and found I really enjoyed it. I then was introduced to a community of artists who loved to do body paint and Halloween and SFX makeup looks, and my craft took flight from there. My sister would always go to MAC to get her makeup done and I started to become really interested in this too. I started practicing makeup on my myself, my sister, and my friends. Friends of friends began to ask to get their makeup done for special occasions. My career in makeup artistry blossomed from there. I enjoy being able to glam women up and make them feel good about themselves. I’m a self-taught makeup artist. I am very blessed to have discovered the talent I have. I would dedicate hours to my artistry, practicing new techniques every chance I had, as well as researching other artists and learning from them. I didn’t go to school for artistry because I couldn’t figure out what I wanted to study. I wanted to study art and become a teacher but there weren’t any programs that I was interested in that would cater to the career field I was looking for. I am a full-time freelance makeup artist and owner of GlitzGlamAndGore Makeup Studio. I do makeup for special occasions as well as bridal services, editorial shoots, and of course body paint & Halloween/ SFX creative makeup!

I love connecting with my clients and meeting different people in my field of work. I can be going through a rough day and I can take on a client and it’ll lift my whole mood! I love to be able to make a client feel their very best after a full glam or make them feel like a badass in Halloween makeup, ready to take on their alter ego for the night! It’s a great feeling! I attended IMATS in 2014 and saw a whole community of body painters and SFX makeup and instantly fell in love with it! I thought it was really cool that there was such a huge community of artists who would use body paint to create or bring to life these characters. I’ve always been really interested in the creative and fantasy side because it reminded me a lot of the characters I would draw when I was younger. I’m a big fan of pop-culture and bring that to my work. Many of the characters I draw inspiration from, I have watched on TV or read in books. I appreciate the creativity behind each character and their story, and creating these looks is a memoir to my childhood and adolescence. These looks are a form of art for me.

“I am a full-time freelance makeup artist, I do makeup for special occasions as well as bridal services, editorial shoots, and of course body paint & Halloween/ SFX creative makeup!” 52

I am a huge fan of Halloween, it’s my favorite season. I take my son to Comic Con in New York each year, where I create cosplay costumes for the both of us. It’s so much fun! October is approaching and it’s my favorite month of the year, so I’ll be creating some new looks… For my original looks, my inspiration comes from many places. Sometimes I see artists create looks and I create my own version, or I see artwork and get inspired to create a look based on that. I can watch a movie and be inspired to create a look from that movie. Even a trip to the craft store can spark inspiration for me! I get these ideas in my head on how certain things could look and that’s how it starts. Creative makeup requires a totally different skillset to more traditional artistry. It allows me to express my art in different ways, and I find art ties very well with creative makeup. Being able to play around with different colors, color contrast, drawing and shading skills that I learned in art class plays a big role in creating these realistic creative looks for me, and using quality products from brands such as Wolfe FX and Mehron helps me bring the most from my art.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a big fan of pop-culture and bring that to my work. Many of the characters I draw inspiration from, I have watched on TV or read in books.â&#x20AC;?

C H A S I N G

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KNOWN FOR CREATING BOLD, BEAUTIFUL HAIR LOOKS, KAT COLLETT IS CELEBRATED IN THE INDUSTRY FOR HER INGENUITY. FROM THE ICONIC WATER PISTOL HAIR-DYING TO GIVING BACK, CLAIRE MACAULAY SPOKE TO THE WOMAN BEHIND THE HAIR. Kat Collett is, quite simply, a breath of fresh air. Known for her impeccable execution of bright, bold looks, as well as her work with brands such as Pulp Riot, Olaplex, and Colortrak, it’s clear that she carves her own path in the coloring industry. But how did she start? “I wasn’t one of the children who always knew what they wanted to do. When I was growing up, I wanted to do everything! I wanted to be like a dolphin trainer and a doctor and a firefighter and in the air force”, Kat laughs. It wasn’t until Kat lost someone close to her that she began to pursue more creative fields. “I wanted to do something that really made my heart sing, and that meant something to me”, she says. Her love of painting and chemistry led her to consider making a career out of hair, and three days later she enrolled in beauty school and never looked back! As a colorist, Kat has an impressive range. From the softest blushes of pastel to full-blown multicolored madness, she has a gift for creating looks that most of us could only dream of. “I color depending on my mood”, Kat reveals,

“Sometimes it’s bold and bright, sometimes a little calmer. I read off what my guests are feeling. Sometimes that translates to a gentle pastel, other times a whole head of rainbows! We’ll work together to create something unique that speaks to who they are. “I find most of my inspiration in nature and photography. It might be in the wings of a bird, a flower, or even a high-contrast image of the Grand Canyon! Sometimes even in food!” Kat says, “If a guest gives me free rein, I get so excited! We’ll work together and I’ll show them some photos of colors or themes they may want to try – I’m constantly taking photos of things that inspire me!” Kat is an educator with Pulp Riot and her love for the brand is plain to see. “I use Pulp Riot to create my colored looks. They’re incomparable for their vibrancy! They have so many different options from pastels to louder colors!” She says. Another product she hails is Olaplex - she is a Brand Ambassador. “I love Olaplex!” she says, excitedly; “You can use it with any color and it’s not exclusive to any brand, it’s incredible! It’s allowed us as artists to push the boundaries and

I find most of my inspiration in nature and photography. It might be in the wings of a bird, a flower, or even a highcontrast image of the Grand Canyon!” 55

get our guests to their goals far sooner and keep their hair healthier. It’s a game-changer!” Through her work with the brand, she would fly across the country to shoot educational videos and do stage shows and classes in salons. In the current climate, this has gone more digital. “I miss traveling a lot” Kat sighs “I get totally stircrazy when I’m stuck in the same place. I miss my friends [in the industry] and collaborating with them in different ways.” In her initial days as an Educator, Kat found it difficult to verbalize her creative process. “The creative part of my brain is so strong that I can find myself tripping over my words. I get too excited and start talking, then stumble and stutter. I just want to get it all out! I trained hard with one of my mentors, Ben Mollen, who taught me to slow down my verbiage so I could think through what I was going to say”. She maintains the importance of accessibility in education, saying “It’s so important to break everything down. You just can’t assume that everyone has the same levels of knowledge – getting to the basics means that everyone can understand.” u

Kat is perhaps best known for her use of less traditional tools in the coloring process. One example of this went viral, which was created with water pistols. Envisioned with husband Andrew (who is also a hairstylist), she says the idea came to them when they were lying in bed at night. “This image of a shattered hair look came to us out of the blue. We were squeezing dye through bottles and trying all sorts of techniques to achieve it before we decided to try water guns! We didn’t expect it to go viral, we just saw it as our first collaboration!” For more conventional tools, Kat tells us Colortrak is her go-to. As an Ambassador, she knows what she’s talking about! “Colortrak are always coming up with some new tools we can use behind the chair that are really colorful and fun. They’re so innovative - our guests just love seeing it too!” In addition to educating, creating incredible hair looks and working with some of her favorite brands, Kat (along with Andrew) manages the With Love salon. The couple decided to open the Kansas City location to do some good in the community while doing what they loved. The salon runs monthly “give back” events in the community, raises money through donations, and works with outreach programs to help those in need. In the past, they have provided haircuts for the homeless and closed the shop to offer those on the Autistic spectrum a safe, quiet haircut. “Giving back to the community is something we believe in deeply”, Kat says, “Success means nothing if you can’t help other people. We want to do what we can to make someone’s life a little brighter.” To many couples, living and working together may not be the most attractive prospect. When Kat and Andrew first told their staff that Andrew would be quitting his corporate job to do hair, they were concerned that the pair would not like working together.

Colortrak are always coming up with some new tools we can use behind the chair that are really colorful and fun. They’re so innovative - our guests just love seeing it too!” 56

To Kat and Andrew, however, working together has given them the chance to reconnect. With Andrew’s corporate job and Kat working in the salon, their schedules could not have been less aligned. “We never got to spend any time together,” Kat says, “we’d see each other for half an hour throughout the day, and in the evenings it would be a case of a quick dinner at midnight and to bed at different times.” Now, the pair get to see a lot more of each other and collaborate creatively on projects and haven’t looked back! “I love working with Andrew!” Kat exclaims “It’s been really valuable to work together as business partners, and we’ve learned a lot about each other”. Kat’s hard work, passion, and unwavering perseverance have done her credit and allowed her to carve out a career that would be a dream to many. To those wanting to follow a similar career path, Kat offers some advice: “It’s important to remember, especially through the pain and the struggles the industry has faced this year, that you can’t fall victim to circumstance. It’s easy to do – I do it all the time, telling myself I’m not good enough, or that I’m falling short of my goals. I beat myself up. You need to push through it and be the change you wish to see in the world, and you’ll grow bigger than you ever thought possible!” •

TOOLS, NOT TOYS Picasso didnʼt paint with ʻplaythingsʼ. Van Gogh got better results with brushes than with ʻthingamajigsʼ. At Colortrak, our mission is designing tools for serious hair artists who expect more – more creative control, more blend-ability, and more flexibility to execute their vision. BETTER TOOLS = BETTER COLOR.

Visit us at COLORTRAK.COM and receive 15% OFF a new set of serious tools with the discount code EVOSAVE15.

LIVE IN COLOR

E M P I R E OLIVIA SMALLEY IS A WOMAN OF MANY TALENTS. HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST, SOCIAL MEDIA STAR, AND BUSINESSWOMAN. CLAIRE MACAULAY SPEAKS TO THE WOMAN BEHIND THE ‘OMG EMPIRE’ ABOUT HOW SHE DOES IT ALL.

I always say my brain is 50% business, 50% creative. I’m guided by my creativity and my business comes along with that. I’m not led by money; I do what I feel passionate about.”

Interviewing Olivia Smalley is like chatting to an old friend. She’s breezy as she asks about my day, laughs with me as I do the British thing and complain about the weather. She’s as warm as she is intriguing, and I want to know more about the woman behind the empire. If you don’t know Olivia Smalley (or her moniker, OMG Artistry), she’s a celebrity hair and makeup artist, businesswoman, educator, and social media star who works with brands such as Joico and Colortrak. Perhaps her most notable works are in her hair hacks, where she shares fun, easy (sometimes bizarre!) approaches to doing hair with her followers. Olivia’s career path has had a tangible dual focus of creativity and business, something she says she always aspired to; “I always say my brain is 50% business, 50% creative. I’m guided by my creativity and my business comes along with that. I’m not led by money; I do what I feel passionate about and work out if I can turn it into business”. Hair and makeup weren’t always the avenue Olivia wanted to pursue. She studied videography before becoming disinterested in her path and returning home. In the wake of the market crash, she was unable to afford to go back to school, and after confiding her worries to her Mom, she found a new direction: hair.

“I couldn’t afford hair school: it was so expensive” Olivia recalls “But I knew it was what I wanted to do, so I begged and pleaded with the faculty; I offered to clean when they were closed on the weekends and nights. After about six weeks of this, they gave me a grant to study!”. She’s come full circle to become an educator herself and cites this as the reason she chose to do so; “That’s why I teach: someone gave me the gift of education”. Olivia is glaringly transparent in the content of her education and willingness to do all she can to help others. “I received such a beautiful gift through my education, and in return, I want to offer the most unselfish teaching I can. I tell all my secrets!” As well as hair, Olivia educates in social media and her willingness to share her valuable insights so freely makes perfect sense when she tells me she once spent $4,000 dollars on a social media class. “I was so disappointed. I didn’t learn a single thing. I went to the class with an open mind, ready to learn and it just wasn’t valuable to me. When I went back to the salon, I was so annoyed, I couldn’t shake it, so I decided to start teaching it myself on my Instagram, giving tips and tricks on editing and captioning.” u

Hair/Makeup/ Olivia Smalley. Model// Jamie Conrad. Photographer// Chris Ramos.

It wasn’t long before her social media savvy soon became more ingrained into her longer-term career plans. “I met the marketing director for Cosmoprof when I was a judge on a Kenra competition, and we ended up becoming really friendly.” Olivia says, “We followed each other on Instagram, and a few weeks after meeting she asked me if I taught social media classes. I didn’t.” She pauses before laughing; “So, of course I lied and stayed up the whole night creating a curriculum!” The next day, she was offered a position with Cosmoprof to teach social media. Once other brands and salons saw what Olivia was creating, she started receiving more offers to teach. In addition to her live seminars, her website offers a wealth of resources for anyone looking to improve their social media presence. From image presets to photography and captioning tips, she has carved out a digital space where anyone can learn and grow. As well as educating, Olivia is a celebrity makeup artist. Paris Hilton, Nick Jonas, and Sophie Turner are three famous faces she’s worked with, which she reels off as casually as a coffee order. Olivia first met Paris Hilton at the Diane Von Furstenberg fashion show at New York Fashion Week, while working with CHI haircare. A friend in the industry recommended her to Paris, who’s hair and makeup she has now done “tons of times”. “Once you’ve worked with a celebrity there’s an element of trust gained that you can do a good job”, Olivia says “That’s how I started to gain more celebrity clients and brand work in the early days”. Olivia could have easily specialized to celebrity artistry, but instead has grown an empire of her own. With a podcast, a merchandise line, and an Instagram account reaching nearly two hundred thousand people, it’s clear she hasn’t stayed in the background! She’s perhaps best known for her hair hacks. But where did it all start? “I saw this video online where someone curled their hair with a plastic bottle and a hairdryer. I actually intended to upload a reaction video showing how it didn’t work… it didn’t go the way I had planned!” she laughs. In fact, the hack worked perfectly. She edited the video in half an hour and posted it online, only to check the comments two minutes later and find it had amassed 4,000 views. “I had never heard of this in my life! Allure Magazine wrote a piece on it, and by the time the article went live the next day it had over half a million views!” Within a week, the video had reached well over a million views, and Olivia’s followers were climbing. She got verified, and her video was being picked up by news agencies across the nation. “I’d been living in such a professional world for the four years before that”, Olivia says “teaching the hair hacks has been a new kind of fun! I research and play with different ideas, and they’re easily sharable”. For all her professionalism and business savvy, Olivia admits to having off-days, just like the rest of us. “I’m a total perfectionist. Knowing the ins and outs of social media, and the content I’m producing means that I feel the pressure to do everything perfectly. It can be draining!”. “I’ve been so excited to do hair hacks because it’s the total opposite! It’s raw, it’s on my phone, the captions are easygoing. The pressure I’ve put on myself in the past has taken me far, but I think nowadays people are gravitating towards more authentic content. Once I realized that, I started to enjoy myself again!” Olivia is a Joico Ambassador, a love affair that for her began when she was on the team at Cosmoprof.

“Through my work with Cosmoprof, I was introduced to Joico’s products and fell absolutely head over heels!”. For Olivia, simply appreciating the brand wasn’t enough – she knew she wanted to work with them! “I headed to their Instagram page and started investigating how to get featured by them. I noticed that they posted these joyous, happy hair shots on really clean, editorial backgrounds, so I mirrored my own content around this too!” Olivia’s perseverance paid off, and the brand invited her to Coachella to do celebrity hair and get to know the brand more deeply. “I did Sophie Turner’s hair, but I didn’t watch Game of Thrones, so I didn’t know who she was!” As her contract with Cosmoprof was drawing to a close, four brands asked Olivia to go exclusive with them. “I told everyone to make me a deal I couldn’t refuse. If I was going to be associated with one company for the next two years it needed to be worth it! When Joico shared their future plans with me, I was so excited, I knew they were the right choice!” Now signed to Joico, Olivia has never looked back. “I love them so much”, she says, “I love the whole team. We’re more than a team, we’re a family”. I asked Olivia what her favorite Joico product was, which turned out to be an impossible task. In the end, we compromise on two she would take to a desert island: Weekend Hair Dry Shampoo (“it smells delicious and will keep my blonde in-tact”) and Zero Heat Air Dry Cream (“it transforms my hair, I have never seen anything like it!”). As well as her work with Joico, Olivia works with Colortrak. “I love that team so wholeheartedly!”, she tells me “they have supported me so much, sponsored my classes, and come to see me”. Loving Colortrak’s products has led to Olivia working with the brand for nearly seven years! “It’s just different. I just have so much fun with them!”, she says. One thing is clear to me; Olivia Smalley is one very busy lady! She has recently added another string to her bow: a lifestyle bikini blog. “I recently turned my personal page into a business page which sets out to inspire and empower. My ‘OMG’ page is a lot more educational, and it’s really exciting to explore a new route and work on a different type of content!” Olivia rounds off our interview with a few words of gratitude; “I could never have imagined a life like this without the love and support of my husband Aaron, he’s been a rock. My parents and brother have always encouraged me to follow my dreams and be the best version of me. I’ll always be thankful,” •

“Before I did video I was never in front of the camera. I was so bad, but one day I just said to myself ‘Olivia, you have a voice’ and began to practice, practice, practice!”. 60

“If I’m going to be associated with one company for the next two years it needs to be worth it! When Joico shared their future plans with me, I was so excited, I knew they were the right choice!”

S A L O N

E S S E N T I A L S

Brush with Greatness

WHETHER YOU’RE AN OLD HAND IN THE INDUSTRY OR JUST STARTING OUT, THERE’S ALWAYS MORE TO LEARN ABOUT CUTTING EDGE PRODUCTS, TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES. FROM OUR PICK OF THE TOOLS TO INVEST IN TO SUPPLEMENT YOUR CRAFT TO ADVICE FROM EXPERTS IN THE INDUSTRY, WE’VE GOT A HEARTY SHARE OF INSPIRATION FOR YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS. 63

N I C K

S T E N S O N

Industry Icon

NICK STENSON IS A TALENTED STYLIST, SHREWD BUSINESSMAN, AND INDUSTRY ICON, BUT AT HIS CORE IS DRIVEN BY A NEED TO HELP PEOPLE. HE SPEAKS TO CLAIRE MACAULAY ABOUT TEAMWORK, HIS DRIVING FORCE, AND HIS RELATIONSHIPS WITH HIS CLIENTS.

“AS HUMANS, WE’RE SO INHERENTLY SCARED OF FAILURE THAT WE DON’T LET OURSELVES TRY. EXPERIMENT, EDUCATE YOURSELF, SURROUND YOURSELF WITH PASSIONATE AND ENTHUSIASTIC PEOPLE.”

To call Nick Stenson an ‘industry icon’ would be an understatement. The stylist, who has been in the industry for 21 years, is the Artistic Director of Matrix, the Senior Vice President of Salon Services and Trend with Ulta Beauty, and the founder of Nick Stenson Beauty. “I love this industry,” Nick says, “but I never thought that this would be the path I would end up taking. My career goal was to become an orthopedic surgeon!” Medicines’ loss is undoubtedly the beauty industry’s gain. While Nick was working in an ambulance, he would also take shifts at his Mom’s salon. Many of his family were in the beauty industry, and Nick found that being immersed in the salon environment led to an epiphany about his future. “I had always wanted to make a difference in the world and change people’s lives for the better,” Nick says, “I just came to realize that I didn’t need to save a life to do that. I could bring out someone’s inner beauty and make them shine”. He pauses. “And I thought ‘this is actually fun.’ It doesn’t feel like work.”

The power of not only the finished product but the experience of being treated is something Nick believes holds profound meaning; “I think getting your hair done, or any other treatment for that matter, is an escape from the everyday monotony. You’re taking that time to give back to yourself. It’s total self-care. There’s a lot of power behind that.” #ISeeYourBeauty is a campaign Nick founded to help people grow their self-worth. “My purpose isn’t to create beauty but to pull beauty out of someone who doesn’t realize they have it. I believe everyone is beautiful, but if you don’t feel beautiful, then you can’t look beautiful because it starts from within.” The basis for the campaign was to help people to see their inherent beauty. “I think an honest mistake that hairdressers can make is wanting to try cool cuts and colors on a client that they don’t feel comfortable with. Stylists need to step back and consider how their client envisions beauty. I think it’s something the professional industry needs to look at and realize that everyone’s on a different journey, and that helping people see their beauty is how we can win!”

“MY PURPOSE ISN’T TO CREATE BEAUTY BUT TO PULL BEAUTY OUT OF SOMEONE WHO DOESN’T REALIZE THEY HAVE IT.” For Nick, this human connection is the primary motivation behind his work. “I think deeply about the connection between the stylist and the client,” Nick says, “about five years into my career, I began to start serving clients who unfortunately experienced hair loss due to cancer treatment. It’s a devastating journey for them to go on where they would lose their hair and have to buy a wig. Often they would have terrible experiences which would make a vulnerable time even worse.” “I decided to learn to work with wigs so that if any of my clients were diagnosed with cancer, I could help them. I could recreate a wig to look exactly as their hair did when they felt most beautiful.” Nick soon became sought after by those losing their hair and began to appreciate the hairstylist’s role more deeply. “It’s taking care of the heart and the soul. We’re one of the only industries other than doctors that physically put their hands on somebody to make a difference in their lives. We have a huge responsibility, and there’s something beautiful about that.” u

“IT TOOK 19 PROTOTYPES, BUT I FINALLY CREATED SOMETHING THAT FELT UNIQUE AND DIFFERENT AND CREATED VALUE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL AND THE CONSUMER.” Nick serves as Artistic Director for Matrix, who he has been with for 20 years after starting as an entrylevel educator. “Matrix has been a family to me. If it weren’t for my time with them, I wouldn’t be where I am today. They have helped to craft my career and offer me guidance when I needed it. I am extremely grateful to them.” In addition to his role with Matrix, Nick is the Senior Vice President of Salon Services and Trend with Ulta Beauty. “I call it a business within a business! I run an entire business from strategy to education to marketing, execution, compliance - everything! That’s what my team does for almost 1,300 salons and 15,000 professionals across the country.” It isn’t all work and no play with Ulta, though, “I love to be challenged, and with Ulta, no two days are the same!” Nick says, “I love to be around passionate people who are driven and committed. I have the best team; I’m so lucky. It’s a gift to work with creative people, building trends, and creating education platforms that feed the soul of hairdressers, and the

incredible business-minded people who are full of passion for creating fantastic career opportunities for professionals across the country. It’s a dream team; it’s such an honor to lead a team for a company that’s trailblazing in beauty right now.” In addition, Nick had selected his dream team for the Ulta Pro Team. “It was a privilege to form this team. When selecting artists, I feel the most important thing is to lead with heart and intention, then follow up with talent. There are a lot of talented people in the world, but to put talent on a team without ego is difficult to do.” “It’s such a blessing to have created a team full of heart-led, passionate, loving, caring people who happen to be absolutely incredible at what they do. We all learn and grow from each other. It’s just incredible.” One significant project that Nick and the team at Ulta have been working on is ‘Unveiling Beauty,’ a series designed to challenge and educate people in the industry. “I feel a huge responsibility to be a voice in the community,” Nick says, “to shine a light on topics that people don’t want to discuss. We’re all just afraid we’ll say the wrong thing. I want to create a safe place for people to be vulnerable. The racial unrest we have in the world right now is very real. We need to talk about it and be honest with our insecurities around it, our own naivete.” Nick is passionate about bettering education in the professional beauty industry. “The industry has a huge void in ensuring all hairdressers are trained in all types of hair. When you become a seamstress, you learn to work with all fabrics, not just silk!” If Nick wasn’t busy enough, he has created a signature brush line. Characteristically kind, Nick says, “there are a lot of really well-performing products and tools, but I’ve never found that one thing I could grab that could do everything I wanted

it to. It took 19 prototypes, but I finally created something that felt unique and different and created value for the professional and the consumer.” “When it comes to blow-drying and finishing, it doesn’t matter if the cut and color are beautiful; if a person doesn’t know how to finish it, it’s for nothing.” Nick says, “The consumer is the walking billboard for our industry; they need to have the ability to recreate that.” For Nick, spearheading every aspect of the process behind creating these brushes was deeply important. “My grandmother taught me that your home and money could be taken away from you, but nobody can ever take away your dignity. She told me never to sacrifice it. Never to compromise it. I think about this with every decision I make; I need to have my name on it because it holds me accountable to be the best I can be.” Nick offers advice of his own for those starting in the industry or questioning their place in it. “The journey you’re on is your current path, but it doesn’t need to be the place you end. It’s just part of the ride! As humans, we’re so inherently scared of failure that we don’t let ourselves try. Experiment, educate yourself, surround yourself with passionate and enthusiastic people. There are no limitations in our wonderful industry! You need to take control, don’t wait to have things handed to you.” •

I’m excited to introduce you to a unique line of brushes. The perfect professional tool for faster blowdries, ultimate shine and extreme control. Volume where you want it. Tension where you need it. Maintaining the highest professional quality your hair deserves, I believe your hair is the hero of this story. Treat it with kindness and fuel it with only the best.

Nick Stenson, Founder and CCO of Nick Stenson Beauty. L’Oréal Matrix Artistic Director. Ulta Beauty SVP Salon Services & Trend.

VOLUME WHERE YOU WANT IT. TENSION WHERE YOU NEED IT. AVAILABLE AT NICKSTENSONBEAUTY.COM ALSO AVAILABLE AT

Keep it Clean

W I T H

K R IST I N

K A I DE

BARBICIDE AMBASSADOR AND HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST KRISTIN KAIDE KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT KEEPING HER TOOLS CLEAN AND SANITIZED. SHE SHARES SOME OF HER TRICKS WITH SALONEVO. When we’re thinking of risk when it comes to an airborne or droplet spread illness like COVID-19, we have to think of how we use each item. A makeup brush is going to be a much higher risk of spreading an infection like that versus a hairbrush. That’s because a makeup brush comes in direct contact with the most contagious areas on another human, like the eyes, skin, mouth, and nose. If you think of how you use a hairbrush, yes it’s touching your skin and another person’s skin and the surface area that you set it on but does that make it a high risk for contracting COVID-19? Let’s run through the worst-case scenario. Say your client took off her mask and coughs all over your hairbrush while you’re away mixing up color. When you go to style her hair, you touch that hairbrush. Unless you touch your mouth, nose, or eyes while your hands are contaminated it is not likely to spread to you from that type of contact with the brush. This is why

washing your hands in between clients is imperative. If you use that same brush on the next client without disinfecting it, it’s also not likely to spread to them unless there is still a high viral load and they happen to touch something that you touch then they touch their own eyes, mouth, or nose. You’re probably wondering why disinfecting our hairbrushes is important then if this type of contact isn’t much of a risk. Well just because it won’t be a likely spreader of a respiratory illness doesn’t mean it won’t be a higher risk for other types of infections. Skin infections that affect the scalp like tinea capitis (ringworm) could easily spread from brushes not being cleaned and disinfected correctly. After cleaning out any hair and debris from my brushes I soak them in Barbicide following the directions on the label. Barbicide is a brand I always trust and has continued to be an incredible resource for our industry providing education throughout this pandemic.

“SAY YOUR CLIENT TOOK OFF HER MASK AND COUGHS ALL OVER YOUR HAIRBRUSH WHILE YOU’RE AWAY MIXING UP COLOR. WHEN YOU GO TO STYLE HER HAIR, YOU TOUCH THAT HAIRBRUSH.” 68

Makeup brushes are porous items which means they technically can’t be considered “disinfected.” Because of this, you should never “spot clean” or use anything that claims to be a quick makeup brush disinfectant. That doesn’t mean I cannot use a disinfectant on them, but I have to be careful choosing which one and how I use it. The correct way to lower the risk of spreading pathogens from makeup brushes is to thoroughly clean each makeup brush with soap and water first. Let them dry in a contained area. Once they are dry, I spray each brush with Isopropyl Alcohol 70%. It may be tempting to use a higher concentration but it’s actually less effective. When the brushes are completely dry from both steps, I pack them in individual bags for each client and keep them sealed until I’m using them on that client. When I arrive on a job, I ask the client their name and if they have any allergies. I label that brush bag with that information and keep their brushes in there throughout the day, so I don’t accidentally mix up brushes used on different clients. Since these brushes are in contact with the mucus membranes, I have to consider things I don’t have to think of with hairbrushes. One thing I do now is ask others to stay away from my working area. If we take the same scenario from the hairbrush client and she coughs all over my makeup brushes then I use them on someone’s face, common sense tells me that’s not a good idea. In real life, I wouldn’t knowingly work on a symptomatic client but bear with me for these hypothetical scenarios. If you’re still wondering what you can and can’t use, look up the SDS for each disinfectant. The safety data sheet is readily available online and it will tell you if it’s safe for contact with the skin, if it interacts with any other chemicals you use, and if it is corrosive to the material you are trying to use it on. Always check with your local regulatory body on their recommendations for disinfection practices.

Brush W I T H GR E AT N E S S

IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO KNOW WHICH PRODUCTS YOU SHOULD INVEST IN. Have no fear, SalonEVO is here to soothe your concerns and recommend some of our favorite tools to ensure your clients are looking and feeling their best. We’ve collated some of the best brushes in the industry, so whatever your specialty, we’ve got you covered.

NICK STENSON CURIOUS BRUSHES The Cushion Brush utilizes a criss-cross pattern around the edge, which creates volume while the center channel of natural fiber bristles creates airflow for faster blowdries and ultimate shine. The natural fiber bristles smooth the cuticle for natural shine, as well as absorbing and redistributing hair oils from the root. The nylon bristles penetrate the hair for maximum detangling. The brushes patented configuration of nylon and natural fiber bristles gives better control, with edge bristles for fine details.

$59.99// nickstensonbeauty,com

UGLY DUCKLING PREMIUM NAIL BRUSHES

DOLL 10 BEAUTY COSMETIC BRUSH COLLECTION

The Ugly Duckling brush line contains a varied selection of hand-crafted brushes to cater to any service from acrylics and gels to nail art. Our top pick is the 2-in-1 Premium Crystal Velveteen brush – the only tool you’ll need to create beautiful Acrygel extensions. With an 11mm square brush on one end and a spatula on the other, you can’t beat the convenience!

This vegan and cruelty free brush collection from Doll 10 Beauty features a selection of six essential complexion brushes to level-up your clients’ skin looks.

$49.00 // doll10.com

uglyducklingnails.com

ZERO TIME SYSTEM BRUSH The Zero Time System is a dynamic haircoloring tool that offers faster application of color with minimal product waste. With three sizes of brush for a multitude of application options and a stackable curved bowl with slant, lip and measurements, this brush set is all you’ll need to create incredible looks for a fraction of the price.

$49.99// zerotimesystem.com

RAW BY TEADORA CLAY MASK DIY KIT

BELLAMI MIRACLE SMOOTHING BRUSH

The Teadora Clay Mask DIY kit is an essential for every facialist. Just drop your desired clay, oil and mixing liquid into the bowl and mix to create a mask tailored to your clients’ needs.

Perfect for quick smoothing or extending blowouts, this 2-in-1 hair brush heats, smooths, and styles in just one step. The BELLAMI Miracle Smoothing Brush utilizes Super Ion Technology to reduce frizz and is crafted with Tourmaline for smoother, silkier strands in less time.

$25.00 // teadorabeauty.com

$89.99 // bellamihair.com

SOCIAL DISTANCE. TWO WORDS WHICH HAVE COMPLETELY CHANGED THE GAME FOR PROFESSIONALS ACROSS THE INDUSTRY.

Minimizing Contact With close contact services under a microscope, the industry has had to be adaptive to the changes the COVID-19 pandemic has brought to our doors. We thought it was only right to celebrate some of the technologies that helped us to carry on.

The Infra- Designed by and Red Spread for the salon industry Schwarzkopf Professional are revolutionizing the world of haircare. The Salon Lab Smart Analyzer device can analyze hair at a molecular level and through visualized results can show the health of the hair. The device measures the health of the inner hair, allowing beauticians to diagnose problems there and then. The results of the analysis, and the experience of the beautician allows for treatments and product recommendations to be more accurate than ever before. Clients are asked questions about the health and body of their hair before strands are run through the analyzer. The nearinfrared ray sensor built into the analyzer measures the levels of cysteic acid within the hair (which indicates levels of damage). Within five minutes the data is run through an algorithm which – along with the answers to the initial questions – provides an analysis. The technology took two years to develop and is currently being integrated in salons across Japan before hitting salons worldwide. Developed in Henkel’s German laboratories, the technology allows salons to connect to the lab, instantly comparing results with 30,000 hair samples to form an analysis and diagnosis. In their Fibre Clinux haircare line, Schwarzkopf offers five products tailored to different hair conditions. When receiving a treatment at the salon, clients can have a customized mixture applied to their hair that combines the treatment recommended by the Smart Analyzer and another chosen by the beautician based on their visual judgment of the condition of the hair.

CLIENT LOYALTY PROGRAM By Zoé Bélisle-Springer, Community & Content Manager at Phorest Salon Software. Phorest’s client loyalty program helps to build meaningful, lasting relationships between hair and beauty professionals and their clients. Zoé tells SalonEVO more about the program and how it can help our businesses flourish. If loyalty programs have gone from using copper tokens, trading stamps and box tops to cards and now digital technology, the business need they’ve aimed to satisfy never changed — that is to say, retaining clients. The fact is, acquiring new customers is expensive. It can cost up to five times more than tending to existing ones and a 2% increase in client retention can have the same effect on profits as cutting costs by 10%. The problem with popular loyalty schemes is that they’ve got discounting at their core, which does nothing to boost your salon’s profile or revenue in the long run. A customer-centric approach, specifically for the salon industry Phorest Salon Software’s TreatCard loyalty system was designed specifically for the hair and beauty industry. It focuses on the same things salons pride themselves on: building relationships and delighting customers. As Ken Picton, President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing put it at the Salon Owners Summit 2020 global event: “A satisfied customer isn’t going to tell everyone what a great experience they’ve had with your company. Forget about satisfying customers because satisfying them won’t help you make it in the increasingly competitive business world. To do that, you need to create customers who are so devoted to your products and services that they wouldn’t dream of taking their business elsewhere and will sing from the rooftops about just how good you are.”

Here’s how the system helps do that: Clients earn points every time they spend money and earn bonuses for referrals. Once they become eligible for a reward — and this is the key — their points can only be redeemed for treatments and products they’ve never purchased before, which introduces them to more of the salon’s offerings. Provided their experience is as memorable as always, over 30% of people end up telling their friends about it, coming back and buying that product or service at its full price, drastically increasing their average bill (by up to 30%) and the business’ intake (by up to 21%).* Of course, those metrics can all be tracked with our reports that show exactly how many clients have rebooked a treatment or repurchased a product they initially tried as a reward. Reinforcing brand identity With the rise of eco-friendly options, online stores and mobile apps, many loyalty programs have had to shift to digital solutions. The TreatCard loyalty system was not exempt from this reality, thus its integration with Phorest’s appointment book and Online Reputation Manager feature. All that’s left for salon owners to do is incentivize revenuedriving activities. Besides, apps significantly reinforce brand identity and increase customer retention. As such, it was a no-brainer to make it possible for salon-goers to keep track of their TreatCard points on Phorest salons’ branded booking apps. With a strong brand kept at the front of customers’ minds, businesses tend to be able to command higher price premiums and are less likely to fall victim to commoditization. The stronger and more charismatic a brand, the more people believe there’s no substitute for it — it all comes full circle. Red pill or blue pill? Is your current loyalty program truly serving you well? Customers pay for your time, expertise and quality products. Why devalue them with discounts and price slashing? With the TreatCard loyalty system, you choose added value over discounting — loyalty over satisfaction. Don’t take our word for it, though. TreatCard integrates with Phorest’s client records and POS, meaning the system’s success can be measured and tracked at all times. Plus, our limit setting means salons always make 14 times the price of a ‘Treat’ before one of their clients can use collected points to receive it. Rules can even be set to only allow Treatcard points to be redeemed alongside a paid booking, leaving clients feeling like VIPs without giving away a full appointment slot for free. * Based on Phorest Salon Software data.

THE SALON.

Tech for the Times

APPROACHING ITS 30TH YEAR, GINGER BAY IS AN INSTITUTION IN THE ST LOUIS AREA. SALONEVO SPOKE TO COE MICHELLE STEIMANN ABOUT THE TECHNOLOGY THAT HELPS THEM STREAMLINE THE BUSINESS. Michelle Steimann has the rather unusual title of Chief Officer of Everything. “It began as an office joke! I’ve worked in all areas of the business from facilities to technology”. A trained nail technician, Michelle originally joined the business in a marketing capacity but has since worn many of the business’s hats. Approaching her 24th year in the business, it’s clear that the Ginger Bay Salon and Spa has something special. “We’re such a close-knit team, which is really remarkable because we have 101 employees at this point!” Michelle says, “I feel this sense of responsibility and stewardship to the team and their families, as well as our clients. It’s part of my DNA, I think.” Indeed, Michelle isn’t the only member of the team who has stayed with the business for the long haul. “We’ve got so many stylists who have been with us for twenty plus years, even one who has been with us for the full 30!”

For any modern business, technology can streamline processes and improve client relations. In the case of Ginger Bay, the use of cloud texting service Textel has done just that. Six years ago, Ginger Bay was approached by Mike Mixon, one of the partners of a local texting company - Textel. Michelle was looking for a solution to address some of the pinch points in the business when Textel came on the scene: “It was surreal – it solved a lot of problems we were having in communicating with our guests!” When it was explained the team that their landline could be text enabled to send and receive texts from a computer, they were over the moon. “We were all set up that afternoon!” The team integrated the service in both their locations. They found their phone flooded with guests who had previously tried to text the number.

Michelle Steimann.

IN A SITUATION WHERE A CLIENT BECOMES UNWELL, OR A SERVICE RUNS LONG, TEXTEL PROVIDES A DISCREET WAY TO COMMUNICATE THIS. WE CAN EVEN TEXT BETWEEN LOCATIONS TO MANAGE CUSTOMERS – IT’S BECOME AN INTERNAL ECOSYSTEM!” 73

The service proved important to one client, who texted the salon on the evening the service was implemented – a Friday. “One of our most valued clients’ husbands sadly received a cancer diagnosis and wouldn’t be able to make her 8am Monday appointment. She was able to cancel her appointment there and then, and I was able to engage with her by text. I really saw the value of the model at that point.” Michelle began to tell all her friends in the industry about the service, even helping them to onboard. “Time really is money, and the generation of customer communicates by text,” Michelle says. Textel offered her an ambassador position, and things grew from there. Michelle went to trade shows and helped to share the brand “the beauty of it is that I’m a customer, I use the product every day, and I love it. I love to help people to grow, so it was totally organic for us to work together!” The team at Ginger Bay has found that the salon has benefitted greatly from the technology. “It’s been amazing for the team!” Michelle says. The team has been utilizing the service to communicate with the front desk. “In a situation where a client becomes unwell, or a service runs long, Textel provides a discreet way to communicate this. We can even text between locations to manage customers – it’s become an internal ecosystem!” u

The salon’s multi-generational customers prefer to use Textel as their main method of communication for appointments, purchases and enquiries. Michelle says, “It’s cut down on inbound calls by 30%, saving us labor costs in staffing the call center.” Ginger Bay has a set of core values they hold dear, one of which is philanthropy. The business donates over $50,000 a year to charitable organizations. The team runs community events regularly, including their annual Spa-tacular in the summer months, a ticketed event where attendees can receive complimentary mini-spa treatments, appetizers and cocktails, and a goody bag. Throughout the event, auctions are held to raise money for the chosen organization, which is decided through a Facebook competition to win votes from Ginger Bay’s followers. In addition to events such as the Spa-tacular, the salon also donates products that don’t sell to women’s shelters and other charities.

THE BEAUTY OF WORKING WITH TEXTEL IS THAT I’M A CUSTOMER. I USE THE PRODUCT EVERY DAY, AND I LOVE IT!”

The salon has close ties with Aveda. “We’ve grown up with Aveda. We greatly value the Aveda brand,” Michelle says. Ginger Bay also utilizes the Aveda training program in their salons, which has made the move to the virtual sphere following the Coronavirus pandemic. “Aveda provides us with a wealth of training opportunities to support the business from front-desk training to color training”, Michelle says, “they’ve been tremendous, as a business partner we can always rely on them, they’re always a phone call away if we need them. They’ve made it very clear to us that they care about their business partners.” What is perhaps most apparent about Ginger Bay as a business is their commitment to educating their staff. The senior management team has committed to educating their staff on the realities of the industry and instill financial responsibility on the team. “One side effect of the Coronavirus is an enhancement of “going it alone.” For many, this is achievable, but it does make me sad to see the cases where this hasn’t been so successful”. Michelle says that she has seen artists and practitioners becoming disheartened by the realities of booth rentals and leaving the industry altogether. “It makes me so sad,” Michelle says, “When they leave, their dreams are shattered, and that’s due to a lack of understanding about the financial realities of working independently.” The team at Ginger Bay works hard to educate stylists on the benefits of working as a team, from the education to the 401k, and prepare employees for the realities of working independently. From implementing clever technology to helping young artists navigate potentially rocky situations in their futures, it is clear that the Ginger Bay salon is ahead of the curve. •

VIRTUAL CONSULTATIONS.

The Online Lifeline

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN A SALON DEDICATED TO GUEST EXPERIENCE HAS TO CLOSE THEIR DOORS DURING A PANDEMIC? WHY, THEY ADAPT, OF COURSE! NATASHA CORNSTEIN, CEO OF BLUSHINGTON EXPLAINS HOW THE BRAND CREATED A WHOLE NEW STYLE OF SERVICE. Blushington is the beauty industry’s answer to the Drybar. With an emphasis on customer experience and quality of service, the brand offers a wide variety of makeup and beauty treatments to allow you to leave feeling your best. “Our founder Stephi Maron founded the business when she was 21 years old.” CEO Natasha Cornstein says; “She had been to the very first Drybar in Brentwood, California with her entire family to get ready for a Bat Mitzvah. After everyone had their hair done, they turned to her and said ‘where can we get our makeup done?’”. It was at this point that Stephi realized she didn’t feel comfortable sending her family to a department store sales floor on this special day, “She realized that there had to be a better option than having her family sitting on the sales floor alongside whatever’s being sold that month”. At this time, freelance services were very expensive, and Stephi saw a gap in the market. Natasha says, “It was at this time that Blushington was born as a luxury but accessible destination where your makeup can be tailored to you.” The luxury element of Blushington is deeply important to the team, and they work hard to source the finest products to offer their clients. “We curate the best products from emerging and established female founded brands.” Natasha says, “We’re an all-female management team. We serve predominantly women. We feel very committed to supporting women owned businesses.” The Coronavirus pandemic has hit the beauty industry hard, but Blushington proved their mettle in continuing to provide for their clients even after their doors closed. The team decided to run online classes, with experienced artists walking clients through makeup looks over Zoom, which enabled the artists to

WE CATER CLASSES TO ALL AGES, RACES AND BACKGROUNDS. A HUGE FOCUS FOR US HAS BEEN TO ENSURE OUR CURRICULUM SUITS WOMEN ALL ACROSS THE SPECTRUM.” guarantee income and the clients a fun and convenient new way to learn makeup! “After we closed, the team put our heads together to figure out how to bring the magic of the Blushington experience to customers at home.” Natasha says, “Women across the world were at home but had this new style of working where they were expected to be on screen constantly. It’s a whole new level of expectation!” “For us, education has always been at the forefront. When our artists are applying makeup, they are also giving you a class, an education. We needed to continue this, so we adapted the Blushington curriculum and teaching ourselves how to teach online.” Natasha laughs, “We were on Zoom eight hours a day, five days a week, adapting, practicing, and a beautiful thing that

came out of that was what we all learned from each other! We did a graduation ceremony at the end of it, it was so much fun!” The team at Blushington have responded well to the digital sphere, but how did their clients respond to this new style of teaching? “Our clients have loved the classes!” Natasha exclaims “We’ve had bookings from across the globe, and we’ve been using feedback forms to adapt and evolve the experience. It’s been so exciting – the number one reason people cite that they learned about a course is through a friend, it’s a wonderful feeling.” One group that may have found themselves in particular difficulty during lockdown are brides, but Blushington have had a solution for them too! “We’ve been offering virtual bridal makeup services too, both trials and makeup for the day itself.”, Natasha says, “At first, we weren’t sure they would translate online, but it’s been exceptional!” Every eventuality has been accounted for to ensure that the big day goes smoothly; “We always have a plan B or C for any technological issues – which thankfully we haven’t experienced yet! – so our brides are put at ease.” Blushington are a group without ego or pretense. Every customer is welcomed with open arms. The education the team creates is not adapted to each client but created for them. “We cater classes to all ages, races and backgrounds. A huge focus for us has been to ensure our curriculum suits women all across the spectrum”, Natasha says. Each artist and team member appreciates the impact of their work on their clients. Natasha says “Beauty is about how you feel, not how you look, and bringing it into someone’s life to make them walk a little taller. We want to bring that feeling to everyone.” It’s clear that Blushington are doing just that.

Is Your Business on Target? Back to Normal is up to You Get our FREE 5 Step Plan to turn your reluctant and skeptical clients into super stalwart clients

USE THIS FLOWCODE TO GET YOUR FREE 5 STEP PLAN

Mikal has been helping salons and spas market and manage with amazing software, consulting and systems since 1982.

Software for Success FRED DENGLER, CEO OF MIKAL SALON & SPA SOFTWARE EXPLAINS HOW THE SOFTWARE CAN HELP YOU WITH YOUR BUSINESS. After reopening, the rush of clients was amazing but now this has slowed. Clientele appear to fall into three categories. Firstly, the Stalwarts are the clients who can’t wait to return to the salon for treatments. The Skepticals are coming in with more reluctance and more concern. The final group, the Resistants don’t feel comfortable enough to return for treatments yet. With our hours and staff limited it can be rough. Split shifts expanded hours and increased prices are keeping our doors open, but more must be done to really resume and grow your business. We need to engage the Skeptical and Resistant clients to create visits and increase sales. The Skeptical clients need to get back on schedule with you. Mikal salons and spas use the JITA program, Just in Time Appointments, to entice clients back in with those last-minute opportunities. In this new environment cancellations are up – a problem and an opportunity. JITA automatically looks at your book every day and sends out email and text messages to clients about availabilities. This isn’t a Facebook post or Tweet that’s lost in seconds on your client’s timeline. JITA offers services directly to your clients and won’t contact those who have visited you within the last month, or have appointments booked. It’s direct and smart about offering the opportunities for you to grow your book.

Skeptical clients also need a reminder to rebook as many won’t do this before leaving the salon. Mikal has an Autopilot e-marketing program that sends out reminders automatically. If the Sceptical client is a retail buyer, they also receive retail reminders. Why not reward your clients for returning to you? Mikal’s loyalty rewards program lets you direct rewards to the areas you are trying to grow. How about double points Mondays, points for rebooking, or points for referring a friend? Mikal’s software tracks and rewards clients automatically.

The Resistant client needs information, marketing, and a strong follow up. Getting them back in is the real challenge, and Mikal software is up to the task! Implement the Mikal Contact Free check in system with a touchscreen at the door to alert you when clients arrive. Use our Employee Mobile Booking App to book the client after their service to minimize time at the desk. Go paperless with client records to keep paper handling to a minimum. Plus, do all the cleaning, masking, and other strategies to create the safe environment the Resistant clients are looking for! Now to market to the Resistant clients. The Mikal system automatically sends emails and texts describing the procedures you have in place. Send them regularly to build the case for your Resistant clients that it is time to come back. Mikal’s five-step program will create the trust needed to turn your Resistants to Scepticals and then to Stalwarts!

“MORE MUST BE DONE TO REALLY RESUME YOUR BUSINESS AND START TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS AGAIN. WE NEED TO ENGAGE CLIENTS TO CREATE VISITS AND INCREASE SALES.” 77

BEAUTY ON-DEMAND.

Tech Check MAILE PACHECO SINGLE HANDEDLY BUILT A TECHNOLOGICAL EMPIRE. A SHINING EXAMPLE OF GOOD BUSINESS SENSE, HER HARD WORK AND STRENGTH OF CHARACTER, ALONG WITH A STEADY FINGER ON THE PULSE BROUGHT HER BUSINESS TO 32 CITIES AND COUNTING! CLAIRE MACAULAY SPOKE TO HER ABOUT WHERE TECH, BEAUTY AND BUSINESS COLLIDE. Maile Pacheco is an impressive businesswoman. From a start in a MAC stockroom to founding the on-demand beauty company BeGlammed, which operates in 32 cities across North America, it’s clear that she has done something very right. BeGlammed connects beauty professionals and clients, allowing bookings through the app or the web. Maile’s first job in the industry was in a MAC stockroom. In her eight years with the company, she climbed the ladder, working at every level of retail before creating a role for herself, negotiating trade deals and sponsorships, building a wealth of connections at a young age. “I became the go-to person if any celebrity or production needed makeup,” Maile says, “whether it was Kanye West, Elton John or the Cirque de Solei!”. It was a simple dinner with a friend that sparked the idea for BeGlammed. There was a ferocious snowstorm on the evening in question, Maile couldn’t get a cab to dinner, and tried a brand-new app to order a car: Uber.

During dinner, Maile’s friend shared her frustrations about finding good makeup artists and hairstylists when traveling. “Suddenly, I had that lightbulb moment! I realized that someone needed to create a trusted service where people could book beauty and hair services on demand, just the same as I could order a cab.” Maile fostered the idea for a few months. After developing health issues that resulted in her leaving MAC, she moved the business forward with gusto. Maile now needed to marry two things; the talented beauty professionals she knew who needed help marketing themselves, and the people searching for them. “I met with some investors who really believed in the idea,” she says, “I was able to raise some capital before the business launched and began to build a team.” BeGlammed launched at a time when apps had only been around for a few years. Instagram was in its infancy; “I could never have predicted that I would have created an on-demand app because apps just didn’t exist!” she laughs. “The beauty industry at the time wasn’t innovating in technology; when we launched, it was a big deal!” Maile has been passionate about technology from an early age and fondly remembers signing up for computer classes as a nine-year-old and playing video games. “It was always a passion of mine, and one that I didn’t expect to explore professionally!” she says. Indeed, if you imagined the founder of a successful tech company, perhaps you would not immediately picture Maile. Maile’s story proves to women across North America that they don’t need to be daunted by a male-dominated industry or to let it change them. A far cry from the stereotypical “tech bro,” Maile herself says that she’s one of the few who looked “girly and glam” but wasn’t pressured to assimilate with the suits. “I stuck out like a sore thumb! I’m young. I’m brown. I always had my hair and makeup done.”

The experience of working in this industry has been a fascinating one for Maile, “it’s been so interesting! It started as an interest, but now I can sit in a room with developers and have sophisticated conversations around technology and building apps. I had a conversation this morning about the userinterface and experience in the app. I still carry the joy for this every day.” Maile has some advice for those wanting to breach a new industry, whether business or not; “Always read the room. Always know your audience. Always maintain your composure.” Before meetings, Maile would look every attendee up online to understand their background and business interests. Marrying her love for makeup with her interest in technology has been rewarding for Maile, but she finds the human component of her business the most rewarding part. “The fact we can touch so many people and be involved in some of the most memorable moments of their lives is wonderful to me.” Maile’s management style is also more human-led than most. For the first two years of BeGlammed, she personally interviewed each of the business’ employees (known as ‘providers’). “If you were to meet a BeGlammed provider and ask who I was, they would know. If I hadn’t met them in person, they’d likely had phone calls from me checking how they were doing.” During this time, Maile was traveling across the US and Canada to meet new providers, doing interviews, and speaking engagements. “I was basically on tour! I would go from city to city, and I’d come home and not even have time to do laundry before getting right back on the road, building our network and being the face of the brand.” A big believer in leading by example, Maile was also a prominent face behind the scenes in the brand’s day-to-day running. “I was on the phones to our customers, side by side with the customer service team,” she recalls. “I had to use a pseudonym to speak to customers and providers to understand how they were experiencing the brand!”

SUDDENLY, I HAD THAT LIGHTBULB MOMENT! I REALIZED THAT SOMEONE NEEDED TO CREATE A TRUSTED SERVICE WHERE PEOPLE COULD BOOK BEAUTY AND HAIR SERVICES ON DEMAND, JUST THE SAME AS I COULD ORDER A CAB.” As ‘Marie’ she mucked in with the team, and no job was too big or small. She used to show up before events in sneakers and build sets with the team before glamming up backstage. “I think it’s a trait that a lot of successful entrepreneurs share,” she says, “just wanting to roll up their sleeves and get it done sometimes!” In 2019, BeGlammed was approached by competitor app Priv, who were struggling at the time, and were at risk of losing their business. The team at BeGlammed saw the company’s shared synergies and decided to undertake an equal merger and absorb their client base. Priv had some financial difficulties to overcome, but BeGlammed saw the value in the new markets and services the brand could open up. “To this day, on-demand hair and makeup are our top booked services,” Maile says. The brands now operate under the Priv name, under the advice of an agency. “We found out after that they were Priv’s previous agency, so of course they picked that name,” Maile sighs. In the current climate, the business has been blossoming. “We have such a stellar group of investors who are committed to buoying up the business even when we were closed,” Maile says. With the rush of people eager to get treatments, the business has been doing well and has even opened up into the ear-piercing market. Over the past three months, Maile has been touching base with her provider network weekly on Zoom. “We open up the floor to chat. It’s been a beneficial forum for our providers to share how they sanitize their kits and how they are keeping their clients safe and comfortable.” It’s a difficult time for freelancers and selfemployed artists, but the culture at Priv has been invaluable to their providers. “It’s been an adjustment, but I’m so grateful to have this community with our providers where they’re sharing and discussing with each other and leaning on each other as a resource.”

BOOKSY MERGES WITH GOPANACHE

ONLINE EDUCATION.

Booksy – Blended BOOKSY TEAMED UP WITH RUGER BARBER’S ALAN BEAK FOR A FREE ONLINE EDUCATION SESSION TO DEMONSTRATE HOW HE SEAMLESSLY BLENDS CLASSIC AND MODERN BARBERING SKILLS. Barbers across the globe tuned in to see Booksy present Alan’s live demonstration on his client, Charlie, and also discuss his tips and tricks for the perfect fade, every time. Viewers were able to watch Alan’s technique, see some of his go-to products and learn how he uses Booksy to his advantage. Of his technique, Alan said “I took little things from different areas of the world and different ways of cutting hair and put them together to make my own formula.” This is what he demonstrated on Charlie, explaining each step in detail and answering questions from viewers as he worked.

Alan also spoke about one of his favorite Booksy features, Boost: “One of the most important things you can do when it comes to working with clients, is using the Booksy Boost feature. I’m booked for up to five and sometimes six weeks at a time, but that doesn’t mean I don’t want new clients. So I still use the Boost feature, which you can find on the app and which helps bring in new clients.” One lucky viewer, Heather from Los Angeles, won a virtual, one-on-one training session with Alan, and each viewer was treated to a free copy of the latest BarberEVO.

Be sure to follow @booksybiz to keep up to date with their events and the latest educational resources. 80

Booksy has merged with one of its US competitors, GoPanache. The merger will see Booksy undertake new features and grow as a brand as their database of 8 million takes on GoPanache’s 500 thousand. The merge became effective as of 3rd August, with both services now operating under the Booksy brand. Booksy CEO Stefan Batory said of the merger: “We’ve been watching and competing against the awesome GoPanache team for years and have always been impressed with their approach and their product. Both apps have been known for being at the forefront of health and beauty scheduling. By combining our resources and expertise, we think we’ll be able to innovate quicker and bring amazing new features to life. For the past couple of years, we’ve been helping our professionals grow their customer base through our Boost product. By adding half a million customers from GoPanache to Booksy’s existing eight million user base, we’ll be better able to keep calendars full and provide new client bookings in these trying times. We’ll be launching a new version of Booksy in the fall with the help of the GoPanache team and we think it will be a game changer for both independent entrepreneurs as well as larger shop owners. This’ll be a new approach to understanding the industry and its needs and we think it will set the standard for how software is built for small businesses.”

KEEP THE MADNESS GOING

Brandi LaShay

Master Barber & Booksy Ambassador

STAY BOOKED WITH BOOKSY Scan to win a Booksy basketball

StepbyStep FUNKY

MOHAWK SINDI DEVITTe

Andis Global Educator

Step 1

Step 2

With the AndisÂŽ MasterÂŽ Cordless clipper, follow the hair flow, cleaning the area while leaving some of the density to work with later.

Using the number 2 attachment comb on the Master Cordless clipper, work your way through the hair, creating a V shape.

Step 3

Step 4

Now use the number 1 attachment comb in order to define the previously cleaned area and repeat on the opposite side.

Using the clippers with an open blade, begin shaping, continuing to gradually close the clipper blade until you reach a closed position.

Step 5

Step 6

For a clean finish, use the Slimline Pro Li Andis Nation trimmer around the ears and edges of the hair.

Use the Master Cordless with clipper-over-comb technique to create some shape to the hair by utilising the density from the top to the front and then repeat at the back.

Step 7

Step 8

Switch back to the trimmer and point cut to create

Finish the cut by applying your favourite hair product or leaving it carefree.

different lengths and add texture.

Images// Tom Lines.

THE ACKNOWLEDGEMENT THAT CAME FROM THE BARBERCON AWARD FELT SO GOOD. IT WAS LIKE I WAS FINALLY BEING SEEN AND RECIPROCATED”

QUEENof the South

PATIPlymire PATI PLYMIRE HAS FAIRLY AND SQUARELY EARNED THE TITLE OF ‘QUEEN OF THE SOUTH,’ WITH HER FLAWLESS BRAIDING TECHNIQUES KNOWN THROUGHOUT HER HOMETOWN OF AUSTIN, TEXAS. FROM BRAIDING HER FRIEND’S HAIR IN HER ROOM AS A TEENAGER TO WINNING MULTIPLE AWARDS, PATI HAS HAD QUITE THE JOURNEY. We find out how she spent lockdown, the unexpected hazards of braiding, and why Schedulicity is the first thing on her mind in the morning.

The ‘Queen of the South’ has always known that hair styling would be in her future. Exposed to hair and particularly braids at a young age, Pati was taken with the intricacy and physicality of hair styling. Combine this with her love for crafts and “making things to help people feel good,” and Pati’s heart was set on hair. It was in her blood, too, as she explains: “I actually found out, which I didn’t know as a kid, that my mom’s sister in Mexico had her own small salon back in the Seventies. So it was just kind of something that I didn’t know was in my blood.” Pati would practice and hone her skills on her cousins in Mexico before her family moved back to the States when she was 14. Pati fondly remembers this period as a time where she would braid her friends’ hair in the comfort of her room. “It stayed a continuous passion throughout my life,” says Pati. Pati’s family didn’t quite share her passion for hair. “A lot of it, I believe, is cultural,” says Pati. “My dad is white and my mom is Mexican – she was born and raised in Mexico. She came to the United States and she married an American man and had children with him in the idea that we were going to have more opportunity and that as

her kids we would be something so much better, like any parent would hope. When I started saying ‘I want to do hair,’ she was like ‘What do you mean? You should be a doctor or a lawyer.’ So it wasn’t really accepted.” But Pati has come a long way; with over 45,000 followers on Instagram and multiple awards under her belt, Pati is a huge name in the world of barbering. She works with big brands like Schedulicity, Style Factor and R+Co, and focuses a lot of her time on giving back to the industry that made her. With Schedulicity, Pati has found an organization that is just as passionate as she is. Since launching #SchedulicityCares in April 2019, they’ve given away $500 grants three times a week to businesses in need of a boost. Pati became involved with the brand after meeting founder Jerry Nettuno at a trade show through “divine intervention.” As Pati says, she feels a strong connection to Schedulicity and its brand: “Schedulicity as a whole is really aligned with who I am and who I try to be on a daily basis. They give so much back, and while I don’t have the means to give back in that way, I would like to think that I give back in love and light.” u

“SCHEDULICITY AS A WHOLE IS REALLY ALIGNED WITH WHO I AM AND WHO I TRY TO BE ON A DAILY BASIS. THEY GIVE SO MUCH BACK.” 85

THE SCHEDULICITY APP ALLOWS ME TO TAKE A DEPOSIT FROM MY CLIENTS, WHICH IS PHENOMENAL BECAUSE IT HAS CUT DOWN MY NO-SHOWS TO ALMOST NOTHING.” “I LEANED HEAVILY ON MY SCHEDULICITY FAMILY AND ON MY STYLE FACTOR AND R+CO FAMILIES DURING QUARANTINE. I ALSO TRIED TO MAKE SURE THAT I WAS PRESENT IN MY COMMUNITY.”

Pati has been giving this positive energy back through her educational work with Schedulicity, Style Factor and R+Co. Education is something that Pati wants to invest more time in. With Schedulicity, she’s taking part in their upcoming ‘HAIR LOVE LIVE’ digital retreat on November 2nd where she will demonstrate her braiding expertise. It’s important to Pati to uplift her community, and through virtual events like this, she’s able to do so. Virtual events are the norm now, as COVID-19 put a spanner in everyone’s works this year. Pati spent the months of lockdown in her home in Austin with her four cats – “My little furballs definitely got my through quarantine!” – and like the rest of us, struggled with not being able to see clients, friends or family. But Pati took comfort in knowing that the hair and beauty industry was banding together and leaning on each other throughout quarantine: “I know that a lot of people struggled with having to sit with themselves when everything that kind of gave you purpose and passion in life had been ripped from you. I leaned heavily on my Schedulicity family and on my Style Factor and R+Co families. I also tried to make sure that I was present in my community. Just as the quarantine started getting a little more lax, I would drop off product to people that were practicing on their mannequins - just little things like that. I’m really grateful for the hair community,” says Pati. Being back in the shop post-lockdown has been a different kind of experience, but Pati relies on one thing to keep her right amid hectic schedules and social distancing – Schedulicity. “It’s almost like my life partner at this point!” laughs Pati. It’s especially important for someone like Pati who relies on a structured routine. “I wake up every morning to check it, and I check it right before I go to bed, just to make sure that my mind is prepped on what I have on in the morning,” she says. Another feature that Pati has found useful, especially during the pandemic, is the deposit feature: “The Schedulicity app allows me to take

a deposit from my clients, which is phenomenal because it has cut down my no-shows to almost nothing. My deposits are non-refundable, so people don’t want to forfeit that.” Since lockdown eased, Pati has been glad to see her regular clients return (“I consider the majority of them almost as family!”), and has welcomed some unexpected new clients, too. “I’ve been getting a lot more women clients than I had prior, all for Dutch braids,” says Pati. Glancing at Pati’s Instagram page, most of her work is on men’s hair, with shots of stunningly intricate braids filling the grid. Any pictures of female clients stand out purely because they are so rare. Pati explains why she’s focused on men’s hair, particularly when it comes to braiding: “With my male clients, I offer something to them that they don’t find. I think in women’s hair, there are so many places that do phenomenal things with women’s hair. Don’t get me wrong, there are so many barbershops that do phenomenal cuts, but there are not a lot of places in my city that you can go as a man and get braided, faded, lined-up, the whole shebang in one.” u

Men’s braiding is Pati’s passion, and though she doesn’t limit her skills to a certain type of hair, there’s one rule that her clients must stick to: “The only hair that I will not braid is if it is less than four inches long. That’s it.” It doesn’t matter the texture or condition of the hair – if it’s at least four inches long, Pati can braid it. “I think that’s the beauty of braids. I see that in my clientele basis. I have all types of textures. Sometimes it’s very textured hair, some, but then some is just wavy or some is super straight. And the good thing about that is that it all comes down to the product and techniques,” says Pati. Style Factor is Pati’s go-to product for braiding. The brand has a range of styling products for different textures of hair, all with the intent of helping to style but also caring for the hair. As Pati explains, “They have a pomade for coarse hair, then there’s a pomade with more slip for finer, thinner hair. They have a pomade with infused with keratin, so when they take the braids out of their hair, it’s in a healthy state. Style Factor’s products are all water soluble and are great for every single texture and type of hair.” Pati also reaches for R+Co for versatility when it comes to products. “Some of my favorite R+Co products are the Outer Space Flexible Hairspray, Freeway Defining Spray Gel, Television Perfect Hair Shampoo – there are so many others that

I can’t wait to try!” R+Co were interested in Pati’s braiding techniques and Pati was excited to work alongside them. “They were an amazing company to get to work with – they sent me some amazing products and I look forward to getting to work with them again!” This level of care and detail to her clients is what earned Pati her BarberCon 2020 Come Up Award. After a particularly tough year for the industry and a turbulent journey to her current situation, Pati was especially touched to be recognised for her impact on the barbering world. She tells us why it was such an emotional win: “It was so significant for me because I kind of felt like my whole life I was the underdog and I kind of felt like I was always fighting to prove myself. I’m so grateful that I’ve had the opportunity to live, what I’ve lived and experienced and I wouldn’t take back any of it. But the acknowledgement that came from the Barbercon award felt so good because it was like I was finally being seen and reciprocated.” It’s hard not to see Pati’s impact on the barbering world and those around her. Whether it’s through educating up-and-coming barbers, working that braiding magic on her clients or uplifting her community, Pati is proof that hard work, positivity and “love and light” go a long way. •

STYLE FACTOR’S PRODUCTS ARE ALL WATER SOLUBLE AND ARE GREAT FOR EVERY SINGLE TEXTURE AND TYPE OF HAIR.”

“SOME OF MY FAVORITE R+CO PRODUCTS ARE THE OUTER SPACE FLEXIBLE HAIRSPRAY, FREEWAY DEFINING SPRAY GEL, TELEVISION PERFECT HAIR SHAMPOO.”

Follow Pati on Instagram @queenofthesouth512 and make sure to tune into Schedulicity’s Hair Love Live event on November 2nd.

ACCESS ALL AREAS FOR MANY OF US, WALKING INTO A SALON IS JUST THAT; WALK IN, SIT DOWN, GET PAMPERED. TO MANY, HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT ALWAYS THE CASE. If you live with a physical disability, a sensitivity to fragrance, or identify as a different gender to the one you were assigned at birth, a simple salon visit can be a minefield of hidden costs, painful conversations and fear. We spoke to those who chose to operate their businesses transparently and compassionately about how to alleviate these difficulties.

HAIR TO HELP NAILING IT Cure nail salon in Grand Rapids is a specialized medical nail salon. For many of society’s more vulnerable, the standards at your average beauty salon aren’t high enough. Cure ensures safe sanitation levels through the use of medical-grade sterilizing techniques and processes overseen by boardcertified podiatrists. The salon environment protects those at high risk for infection, including clients living with diabetes, compromised immune systems, vascular disease, or nerve damage. Additionally, their wheelchair-accessible pedicure chair features a plumbing-free bath, reducing the risk of cross-contamination. The team uses medically approved products such as daniPro, a doctor-formulated nail color to ensure their clients are receiving the highest quality of medical care.

JUST LIKE A FERRARI, THE HAIRRARI TEAM ARE JUST… COOL. FOUNDER MAGDA RYCZKO TELLS US ABOUT RUNNING A GENDER-NEUTRAL BARBERSHOP AND USING HER VOICE FOR GOOD. Bringing the residents of NYC some of the sickest cuts and freshest styles is Hairrari. As well as cool cuts, the three locations are bringing so much more – heart. Hairrari’s model is based on creating an inclusive space for anyone to have their hair cut regardless of age, race, creed, or gender. “I wanted to open an all-inclusive barbershop because I try to include everyone in anything I do”, says Hairrari founder Magda Ryczko, “Don’t invite me to a dinner party if you don’t want me to invite the whole world!” When the shop first opened it wasn’t marketed as anything other than a barbershop, but through

Magda’s friends and the clientele it organically grew to be known as an inclusive venue. They later began to label it as all-inclusive. “It’s gender neutral because we want everyone to feel welcome, including non-binary beauties!” Magda herself is a queer immigrant from Poland and has always felt equality is essential. Hairrari leans into being a space where people of all-genders can feel safe. “Having inclusive spaces is so important,” she says, “if someone wants to treat themselves, they deserve to feel welcomed and not judged because of their sexual preference, race or gender.” u

THE TEAM DON’T JUST SAY THEY ACCEPT ALL GENDERS. THE TEAM HAVE TAKEN STEPS TO ENSURE THEIR CUSTOMERS ARE COMFORTABLE BEFORE THEY EVEN WALK IN THE DOOR.” Image// Daisy Chen.

The client testimonials speak for themselves. Even a quick Google search throws up a healthy selection of warm words from their clientele who value the community Hairrari have created. One review reads “Hairrari is the first barber shop I felt like I could really be myself… They have been a tremendous part of giving me confidence in going out into the world”, another calls the team “the most talented crew in NYC.” Magda shares some words of love for the staff in the shop too: “We have a wonderful staff as well, we’re grateful for each and every person and their uniqueness. Everyone brings something different to the table and any idea is always welcome. We wouldn’t be where we are today without our people and we are grateful for their positivity and inspirations.” The love goes both ways – the team are just as fond of their clients! “We adore our clients!” Magda exclaims “They’re the best, just the sweetest, they always boost our day! Our clients are our everything. With their support and their loyalty, they give us strength, and their satisfaction is the key to our brand.” The community have warmly welcomed Hairrari into the fold, “people tell us how happy they are to have found a place that sits between the barbershop and salon. A barber-salon sort of place.” Happily, the barber-salon hasn’t come across any negativity, but if they did, Magda would ignore it regardless “I’ve encountered negativity before, and I choose not to deal with it. It’s just so draining. I try to see everything in a positive light – and I want my staff to spread joy within the shops.” The team don’t just say they accept all genders. The team have taken steps to ensure their customers are comfortable before they even walk in the door. The team work hard to educate on the importance of pronouns. “We encourage adding pronouns to online booking, and we add all our barbers’ pronouns to our site to normalise using them” Magda says “We want to educate

people about gender neutral pronouns (they/ them). Asking someone their preferred pronouns should be a regular thing to avoid misgendering someone.” The shop also has a non-gendered price list, offering cuts according to hair length, which removes the additional charges that female cuts usually bring in the industry. This allows patrons to simply choose a cut, and not a stance. Hairrari have what you would playfully call a ‘good vibe.’ On the culture in the barbershops, Magda says “We’re queer and queer-friendly. I think it’s what makes us special. It’s family friendly and LGBTQI+ friendly. We educate our straight clients on pronouns and expose them to queer culture. Families feel comfortable bringing their young children in and we have people coming in for their coming out cuts. It’s pretty special. Our culture is to spread love, stay positive, stay woke, be there for each other as a team and be there for our clients by providing the best service possible in welcoming space for all.” It’s unsurprising that the team are vocal in their beliefs. “Businesses have a moral duty to speak up about the importance of causes such as Black Lives Matter.” Magda says, “Anyone with a voice and a platform should spread information and educate the masses with the hope of creating a more loving, accepting and respectful society where everyone is given equal opportunities to live their lives to the fullest!” Hairrari also donate to causes such as Planned Parenthood, HMI and the LGBTQ Center. On top of everything else, the Hairrari team also has a retail line, with tongue-in-cheek products such as a ‘Blah Blah Blah’ t-shirt and ‘Gay Spray’ leave-in conditioner: “it won’t make you gay” Magda tells us “but it will make your hair happy!” One thing’s for sure, Hairrari, and other inclusive businesses like them do make us happy. Very happy indeed. •

Images// Shelly Simon.

“ANYONE WITH A VOICE AND A PLATFORM SHOULD SPREAD INFORMATION AND EDUCATE THE MASSES WITH THE HOPE OF CREATING A MORE LOVING, ACCEPTING AND RESPECTFUL SOCIETY WHERE EVERYONE IS GIVEN EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES TO LIVE THEIR LIVES TO THE FULLEST!”

KEEPING IT KIND W I T H

H E A T H E R

W E N M A N

HEATHER WENMAN IS THE OWNER AND CEO OF THE STUDIO H ARTISTRY GROUP AND A L’ORÉAL PRO ELITE AMBASSADOR. SHE TELLS SALONEVO IN HER OWN WORDS WHY COMPASSION AND ENVIRONMENTALISM ARE SO ESSENTIAL IN BUSINESS. When we started our brand in 2007, one of the most important things was to foster inclusivity. Our slogan is, “We’re your studio that cares.” It was always my intention to create a brand that would be environmentally friendly and sensitive to our clients’ needs. At Studio H, we strive to make the salon inclusive to all clients. We have always believed in equality, and it is an issue that is very dear to me. We had a gender-neutral receptionist who worked with us for over four years. We had many conversations on gender and what it meant, and I began to see more deeply the inequalities in jewelry and fashion. We decided to do more in the salon to support the cause and switch up our price list. Instead of gendering haircuts, we began to price our cuts by style and the time it would take to complete them.

Inclusivity is vital to everyone at Studio H. We need to make our services physically available to any guest who wants them. We have a wheelchair ramp to allow every client access, and we offer a private room for services if they would like discretion. This allows wheelchair users to have treatments conducted without their wheelchair comfortably, have a beautiful, safe experience, and not be limited to their own homes. Fifteen years before I opened my brand, I hadn’t been feeling too well. My symptoms began to alleviate when I was away from work or testing natural products. I found that I’d feel better or worse, depending on the product I was working with at a particular time. I had medical tests that weren’t fruitful. I realized it was the ammonia in the colors I was using that made me feel unwell. When the time came to open the salon, I knew I wanted to make sure these harsh chemicals didn’t feature in the colors we were using. Once I started thinking about it, it seemed pointless to remove them from just the hair products, so the salon uses natural cleaning products as well. We stock and use L’Oreal products in the

“AT STUDIO H, WE STRIVE TO MAKE THE SALON INCLUSIVE TO ALL CLIENTS. WE HAVE ALWAYS BELIEVED IN EQUALITY, AND IT IS AN ISSUE THAT IS VERY DEAR TO ME.”

salon. I spoke to L’Oreal about our product lines. I didn’t want to carry a whole product range that may have products that don’t align with our culture, so they allowed us to pick the products we want to stock. We also decided to recycle our products which our guests appreciated. The studio periodically runs community events where we sanitize and resell tools we’re not using or donate them to organizations who will. We donate proceeds from any sales we make to charities or beauty schools. I became an Ambassador for Green Circle Salons and brought in some innovations to enable Studio H to be more environmentally friendly and sustainable. We have stringent waste and recycling policies and maintain energy-conserving systems in the salon. There’s no point in talking the talk and not walking the walk. We live and breathe this culture. When people go to the Internet today, they look for environmental leaders. We took our initiatives to the Chamber of Commerce, the House of Commons, the Better Business Bureau, every association we could find. Last year, we won the Better Business Bureau Business Integrity Award. Additionally, we’ve won awards on environmental leadership, which has brought in sponsors and suppliers who have approached us about our incentives. When we started, we were very much in the minority in the industry for prioritizing caring and environmental practices. I’ve been in this industry for 40 years. If I didn’t get where I got in the last five, I would have packed it in. I’ve won every award, won world championships, traveled the globe. Even if there isn’t anything else to do, what I can work on is making a difference. Sadly, the beauty industry hasn’t woken up to how toxic things are, so I’ve been approaching this through the business community, a back door if you will. I believe that our industry struggles with adopting new environmental and inclusive practices. It’s understandable; if you train a certain way and have a culture that your team and clients are happy with, it’s challenging to move away from that. There’s an inherent fear in change, in where it might set us back. We’ve already made it through the first significant industry setback! I would say that this is the best time to take a step back and look at how we can do better, be better.

“WE HAVE STRINGENT WASTE AND RECYCLING POLICIES AND MAINTAIN ENERGY-CONSERVING SYSTEMS IN THE SALON. THERE’S NO POINT IN TALKING THE TALK AND NOT WALKING THE WALK.” 95

OFF THE WAHL

THE WAHL PROFESSIONAL TEAM ARE ROCKSTARS, THE EPITOME OF MODERN BARBERING. BYRD MENA AND YADIEL RODRIGUEZ (A ROD) ARE DIGITAL POWERHOUSES MAKING BIG MOVES WITH WAHL. THE DUO TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THEIR WORK ONLINE AND HOW THEY GOT TO WHERE THEY ARE TODAY.

ON WORKING WITH WAHL: A Platform for Good// Byrd We’re working on the Wahl Response project at the moment. We’re sharing the stories of barbers all across America in cities that have been impacted by the Coronavirus and the Black Lives Matter movement and the protests surrounding that. We’ve all seen what’s been going on this year, but it was really clear to me that other companies weren’t talking about it. With Wahl, we have this incredible platform to bring light to these issues and do something about them, so we worked together to make it happen. We’ve been going to the cities most affected by the protests, such as Minneapolis. The barbershops are at the heart of the community. We’re in Louisville right now, and there are barbershops that haven’t been touched because they’re so vital to the area. Lots of damage to all these other buildings, but the barbershops are untouched. It’s a crazy time to be alive, and it’s so important that Wahl is so tied to the community. It’s beautiful; the people we visit in these barbershops are in disbelief that we’re there to see them! A Bridge Between// Yadiel I’m so excited to be working with Wahl. We partnered up a few months ago, and obviously the Coronavirus put everything on pause, but we’ve been working really hard. When I was at home I couldn’t wait to get started, and now we’ve jumped right in! We’re creating videos surrounding the tools and their many benefits for posting on social media. It’s all about creating a bridge between the barber and the company. It’s like a hug, that feeling of having a barber represent you, and it feels the same way to us representing the brand. It’s so cool to be doing this, nobody had this before. To know that the brand is there, and to know that they care… it’s special. For those who haven’t made it to a Wahl class, we can show them the tools through social media, how to use them, how to better yourself and your business. It’s brilliant.

ON THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA: An Inspiring Community// Byrd My whole career is based off social media, and it wasn’t even about me! It was about building community. When I started Sharpfade in 2015 it was all about the barbers. Yadiel was one of the first to support us in it, actually! The whole industry has changed massively. Platforms such as Instagram and YouTube have been such a resource for barbers. Now we can be inspired by what others in the industry are doing. On the events side, the shows have grown so much. I went to Jay Majors’ first show and it was maybe 200 people in a nightclub in Waterbury, Connecticut. This has grown to the Barber Expo we know today, with 15,000 people attending! Social media has some bad sides too. There’s a tendency to think that everything comes easily, but it takes a lot of hard work!

“EDUCATION HAS BEEN KEY FOR ME SINCE THE BEGINNING. IT’S BEAUTIFUL. EDUCATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.”

A Catalyst for Change// Yadiel Social media gave us the biggest explosion of change for the industry. When I first started in the barbershop there was no Instagram. I’d see different designs to mine and think “how the hell did they do that?” When social media came on the scene it was a gamechanger. I started learning everything I could! I started sharing my work online and my clients loved it. People were travelling to see me – that’s the power of the internet! For me, seeing barbers with different styles and expertise all across the world and being able to learn from them… it’s evolving barbering as we know it. Being able to work with Wahl to share and learn is amazing. u

“SOCIAL MEDIA GAVE US THE BIGGEST EXPLOSION OF CHANGE FOR THE INDUSTRY. WHEN I FIRST STARTED IN THE BARBERSHOP THERE WAS NO INSTAGRAM.” 97

WAHL HAS BEEN ACTIVE THROUGH EVERY STAGE OF THE PANDEMIC “IT’S BEEN A DREAM TO WORK ON WAHL EDUCATION. AS A TEENAGER I NEVER COULD HAVE IMAGINED IT.”

IN MARCH THE WAHL EDUCATION AND ARTISTIC TEAM (WEAT) CREATED DAILY EDUCATIONAL VIDEOS ON FACEBOOK.

THE SUCCESS STORIES:

LEARN TO GROW:

Moving through to April Wahl’s top

Inspired by ESPN// Byrd

The Beauty of Education// Byrd

engineers produced thousands of face

I was inspired by ESPN. They would do these ‘Top 10 Slam Dunks’ or ‘Plays of the Week’ or whatever, so I started doing ‘Top 10 Barbers of the Month’ or ‘Top 5 Haircuts of the Week’. We didn’t have anything like that for barbering. I then moved that on to online barber battles, and now I had this whole other different lane to grow, and to support barbers and the industry. I still do projects where I look for up-and-coming artists and help them grow.

Education has been key for me since the beginning. It’s beautiful. Education is the most important thing. You need to expand your mind, not just in cutting techniques, but all the other elements of being a barber. Everyone in the industry has different things they want to accomplish, a different vision. I didn’t set out to be an educator. People began to ask me how I built my brand and I started to flesh it out, and here I am.

shields to help support the medical workers

The Power of a Laugh// Yadiel I started doing these step-by-step videos of cuts I was doing at the shop. One of these was a kid, and when we were recording, he fell asleep. His head just started drooping and it was so funny. I edited it and uploaded it before my next client, and by the time I’d finished with them it had 150,000 views. That was the first time I went viral, it ended up getting about 8 million views. So, I kept uploading. I’d do step-by-steps and skits with celebrities and comedians who would come to the shop – they would give me ideas too!

Know your Worth// Yadiel I try to educate myself before I educate others. Even if I’m not the best at something I try to learn it because I could grow to love it, that could become my strength. So I work at it. Now I can teach on technique as well as the business side of things, and how to get the best from your clients. I’m still a barber because I love it, I have a passion for it, but the business side of it needs to factor too. That’s where education comes in: how do you determine your worth, how will you get people to recognize you, or demonstrate your value to a brand? It’s been a dream to work on Wahl education. As a teenager I never could have imagined it. I grew up in a small town in Puerto Rico and didn’t speak English, but 17 years on - here we are! •

battling the virus on the front lines. In May, Wahl partnered with the PBA and donated a portion of the proceeds from every 1919 styling and finishing product sold to the PBA’s COVID-19 Relief Fund, which supported barbers and stylists unable to work during the shutdown. Retail and Business Educator Jamie DiGrazia’s partnership with Wahl has proved essential to stylists looking to gain extra income from retail in these hard times. Her invaluable expertise has allowed her to lend her support to others in the industry. Instagram Live has proved to be a valuable resource for educating. WEAT team members Nieves Almaraz, Kevin Nguyen, and Garland “G-Whiz” Fox have all held classes on Wahl’s Instagram. Attendees have opportunities for giveaways, as well as the ability to further continue their education hours.

PROFESSIONAL CORD/CORDLESS

CLIPPER

TAPER LEVER CUTS HAIR WET OR DRY

LITHIUM-ION TRIMMER COMES WITH HIGH PRECISIONSNAP-ON/OFF BLADES THE POWERFUL LITHIUM-ION BATTERY ALLOWS FOR 120 MINUTES OF CONTINUOUS RUN TIME CORD/CORDLESS TRIMMING/OUTLINING

FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO: www.wahlpro.com

THE CREW STYLE MAKERS

AMERICAN CREW CELEBRATES WITH THE CREW STYLE MAKERS CAMPAIGN ®

American Crew ® THE CREW STYLE MAKERS, campaign is focused on education and shaped by the brand’s drive to help men groom for success and self-expression. THE CREW STYLE MAKERS serves as an inspiration to barbers and stylists to become industry leaders, set trends and open a world of grooming possibilities for their clients. With the campaign as a tool, American Crew empowers Professionals to showcase what it means to be a STYLE MAKER: an artist that holds both emotional and physical transformational power in their hands. THE CREW STYLE MAKERS demonstrates the importance of the collaborative relationship between the Pro and client and how this partnership provides men with renewed confidence. THE CREW STYLE MAKERS is an inspiring compilation of grooming techniques and the brand’s widest collection of state-of-the-art cuts and styles to date. To bring this to life, American

Crew Founder, David Raccuglia, shot a shortform campaign video in Los Angeles, a market that is seeing a resurgence of creativity in men’s grooming. The video, along with a diverse look book featuring a selection of the top styles, will re-launch the campaign. “Barbers and stylists are intrinsically STYLE MAKERS, and this campaign celebrates that,” said David Raccuglia, Founder of American Crew®. “The real trends evolve from behind the chair, which is why we’re so excited to share this work, as we know it will drive creativity and invite Pros to interpret the looks using their own individual expression.” Built upon the quintessential techniques comprised within American Crew’s widely respected educational platform, Master of Men’s Grooming, THE CREW STYLE MAKERS provides modern inspiration with a focus on textures, product and wearable shapes.

THE UNIVERSITY

THE TAPER

THE CROP

Styled with FIBER

Styled with POMADE

Styled with light hold gel

The University Cut displays versatility and movement. A go-to style for those in-between lengths, it holds noticeable volume after worked with American Crew® Boost Powder and Matte Clay, which helps provide a controlled flow.

For high-texture hair types, The Taper is a must in any Professionals’ repertoire. With a seamless blend and classic neckline, the style gives the appearance of moisture and shine from American Crew® Pomade.

This edgy yet sophisticated cut is well-suited for many hair types with a rounded finish and strong texture. Thickness is created with American Crew® Forming Cream and balanced with a weightless lift from the brand’s Tech Series Boost Spray.

THE CREW STYLE MAKERS campaign will be featured on American Crew’s social channels and on AmericanCrew.com. 100

STYLED WITH MATTE CLAY

Get it now at: AmericanCrew.com

THE CREW STYLE MAKERS

STYLED WITH FIBER CREAM

Get it now at: AmericanCrew.com