82. SAYI - HOMETEX by FAIRWORLD HOME TEXTILE MAGAZINE

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HFPA argues against tariffs on textiles Says China imports levy would hurt U.S. home textiles firms On May 17, The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) gave testimony to The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) in favor of such tariffs. The U.S. Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI) and Narrow Fabrics Institute (NFI) joined the NCTO in a 24-page statement supporting the action. The shift of home textiles manufacturing to Asia was highly disruptive, and several companies did not survive the transition, the HFPA noted in its argument against the proposal. Levying a tariff on Chinese imports would deal a hard blow to the roughly 500 U.S.-based home textiles companies in the business. “Increasing tariffs, whether on products from China or any other country, will lead to significantly higher prices, and inevitably, lower sales and fewer jobs in our industry. These proposed tariffs, if implemented, have the potential to put many of our companies out of business, and worse still, they will not help bring textile manufacturing back to this country,” the HFPA wrote. Its letter was sent last week to New York Senators Chuck Schumer and Kirsten Gillibrand, the Office of the United States Trade Representative, Secretary of Commerce Wilbur Ross, New York Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney, the Chair of the Ways and Means Committee, The Chair of the Finance Committee and President Donald Trump. At the recent USTR hearing, NCTO president and CEO Auggie Tantillo asserted that China’s domination of global textile markets has been aided by intellectual property theft. “From the violation of patents on high performance fibers, yarns and fabrics to the infringement of copyrighted designs on textile home furnishings, China has gained pricing advantages through blatantly illegal activities. Putting 301 tariffs on Chinese textile and apparel exports would send a long overdue signal that these predatory actions will no longer be tolerated,” he said. In response, the HFPA noted that some U.S. home textiles importers still operate substantial domestic “fill and 8

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finishing” operations employing thousands of employees that would be financially hobbled by tariffs. “All our companies are still substantial, vibrant businesses that hire Americans, buy a wide range of goods and services in this country, and support their local communities. We do not see how higher tariffs (on top of already higher than average tariffs), that will terminate thousands of jobs, drive up prices for all Americans, and still have no chance of bringing back domestic manufacturing in our industry will help our country,” HFPA wrote. In a seeming reference to NCTO’s testimony, the letter addressed the “alleged ‘domestic industry’” support for higher tariffs as a means of revitalizing U.S. manufacturing. “Unfortunately, the infrastructure of the textile industry no longer exists. It would take years and hundreds of millions of dollars of investment to rebuild the yarn factories, weaving mills and dye houses we need to support domestic manufacturing,” HFPA wrote. “It is difficult to envision investors in such facilities knowing that if a future administration or Congress reduced the tariffs, the investment would become worthless.” Earlier today, the White House announced it will impose a 25% tariff on $50 billion worth of Chinese technology goods. The list of covered imports is scheduled to be published June 15. The original list of goods slated for tariffs earlier this spring did not include textiles.

TESTS OF BUTEKOM IS NOW RECOGNISED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD BTSO has gained differentiated identity through Bursa Technology Coordination and R&D Center (BUTEKOM) which has major contribution for sectors to gain qualified growth, continues to add power to company’s R&D oriented studies especially in automotive, textile, composite and chemistry sectors. Thus far, more than 120 company has benefited from BUTEKOM which has receivedinternational accreditation in textile and technical textile subjects by Turkish Accreditation Agency. BUTEKOM continue with its works in order to become a solution partner for Bursa as of receiving a new structure in 2014 through BTSO’s vision. The center is leading the sector for innovation oriented growth with its Textile and Technical Textile section. WELL KNOWN BRANDS AND UNIVERSITIES HAVE BENEFITED BUTEKOM possesses Turkey’s first Textile and Technical Textile Excellence Center and catches the attention with its capacity to perform more than 1.200 textile and ready to wear sector oriented tests. In addition to the textile sector, more than 120 companies in 13 different cities benefited from variant sectors. The facility preferred by Famous brands in 10

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textile sector such as LCW, KOTON, Yeşim Textile and KORTEKS and provide service to many universities in Turkey for R&D studies. CONTRIBUTION TO UNIVERSITY-INDUSTRY COLLABORATION Mr. İbrahim Burkay; President of the Board of Directors of BTSO said that they aim to rapidly shift from labor intensive conventional products to manufacturing of knowledge intensive and high added value products through BUTEKOM within Bursa’s industry. Mr. Burkay also stated that BUTEKOM has contributed to R & D projects and university-industry cooperation as well as organizing trainings and organizations for the sectors. He also emphasized that the center has developed high added value products and provided laboratory services. BENEFITED FROM CIVIL AND EU SUPPORTS Mr. Ibrahim Burkay noted that they have received 7.5 million liras of support from the Ministry of Development for BUTEKOM and will receive almost 12 million liras from the Ministry of Development for the Advanced Composite Materials Research and Excellence Center Project.

Mr. Burkay emphasized that they aim to benefit from support of nearly 6.6 million Euros under the Competitive Sectors Program supported by the European Union and gave information that they received 6 million support from the Cluster Technology Support Fund of the Ministry of Science, Industry and Technology within the scope of the Sustainable Home Textile Cluster (SETEK) Project. APPROVAL FROM TÜRKAK FOR BUTEKOM Mr. İbrahim Burkay; President of the Board of Directors of BTSO said that BUTEKOM has received international accreditation from Turkish Accreditation Agency and added that Textile and Technical Textile Excellence Center has 17025 laboratory accreditation certificate. Mr. Burkay; “With the completion of the accreditation process, the test results of our companies benefiting from BUTEKOM’s services have been validated throughout the world.” 2 ADDITIONAL EXCELLENCE CENTERS TO BE ESTABLISHED Mr. İbrahim Burkay stated that two additional excellence centers will be established in the future apart from Textile and Technical Textile Excellence Center within the scope of BUTEKOM and added: “By activation of our Advanced Composite Materials Excellence Center and Nanotechnology Excellence Center BUTEKOM will provide more strength to R &D investments. Approximately 1200 tests are being conducted for the textile and rubber sectors at the Textile and Technical Textile

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Excellence Center. With the initiation of the Advanced Composite Materials Research and Excellence Center, all of the automotive industry’s non-combustibility tests will be carried out here.” 6 THOUSAND PEOPLE BENEFITED FROM BUTEKOM Mr. Dr. Mustafa Hatipoğlu; General Manager of BUTEKOM stated that R&D studies is being carried out for textile, rubber, automotive, machinery and plastic sectors at the facility with the BTSO vision. Mr. Hatipoğlu also mentioned that BUTEKOM which started its sector oriented educations in 2012, has reached to more than 6 thousand people with total of 200 educations. “BUTEKOM has realized over 80 R&D projects up until now. Half of these are project of TUBITAK. The center which realizes Development Agencies, KOSGEB and EU-funded projects in addition to TÜBİTAK projects will continue to guide the companies for transition to innovation based production.” MODEL FACTORY PROJECT WILL PREPARE SME’S FOR DIGITAL PRODUCTION Mr. Hatipoğlu also added by stating that Bursa Model Factory which is under construction within the scope of BUTEKOM in cooperation with The Ministry of Science, Industry and Technology, UNDP (United Nations Development Programme) and Mc Kinsey will prepare SMEs for Industry 4.0 by educating them in lean production techniques and digitalization of production.

THE WORLD IS AT THE FINGERTIPS OF EXPORTERS WITH JUST ONE CLICK

s the representative of 71 thousand exporters, which provide employment to 3.1 million people in Turkey, Turkish Exporters Assembly (TİM), has accelerated its efforts to improve the performance of exporters. TIM, in this context, launched the Export Compass information portal. The portal, which is designed for companies and entrepreneurs who want to increase their exports or enter new markets, will be available at ihracatpusulasi.org.tr. On the portal, exporters will have a chance to access detailed global foreign trade data on 6-digit Harmonized System (HS) Codes level; annual exports data, number of exporters on selected products, export unit prices, Turkey's share in these markets, and general information about the countries. Speaking at the launch, the Minister of Economy Nihat Zeybekci said that, TİM will contribute greatly to the exports and the exporters with the Export Compass portal. Zeybekci also stated that, the portal will make a great contribution to activate the export potential and said, "We will reach 2023 targets with the goal of 100 thousand exporters".

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Chairman of TİM, Mehmet Büyükekşi, called out to exporters, "Use this information. Find out about target markets and your competitors. Use these resources in the most efficient way." Büyükekşi also said that, thanks to the data on the portal, exporters can easily conduct any type of market analysis. Following the analysis, the companies could set themselves a new target country. Büyükekşi completed his speech with the following;

“This portal was a team effort and I would like to thank 3 individuals and institutions for their contribution. First of all, we would like to thank Mr. Nihat Zeybekci, Minister of Economy, for supporting this project. Secondly, I would like to thank the Presidential Office of Economic Co-ordination and Monitoring. And finally, to E-Kalite company for creating the intelligence terminal. E-Kalite is a domestic company based in METU Technopolis. Today, we have shown everyone that our domestic firms and Turkish entrepreneurs can design complex business intelligence terminals."

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COLLECTION PALIO DI SIENA The new Ardecora collection Palio di Siena was inspired by its eponymous, richly traditional Tuscan city. Siena, with its palaces, frescoes and famous Palio di Siena horse race, combines tradition with modernity and passion. Said horse race and its colourful coat of arms inspired this modern book in our collection. The book features graphic elements in striking colours set against sophisticated backgrounds. For example, Il Drappellone boasts a spectacular graphic motif against a cotton satin background that truly catches the eye. Piazza del Campo is a real show-stopper as well. Its sophisticated, impressive design has a three-dimensional visual effect, combining artful embroidery with high-quality appliquĂŠs. This piece is framed by ikat embroidery that vividly evokes the movements of the horse race. The classic Il Palio book revolves around Siena, capturing the Renaissance city with its majestic buildings, trademark patina and colour palettes in all its glory. For example, Oratorio features ornamental, sophisticated embroidery with artful shadows in the background. The fascinating tension between light and shadow lends this fabric a luxurious look. Meanwhile, the interplay of colour and pattern also defines the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s upholstery fabrics. Il Casato and Siena feature elegant woven structures that showcase colour palettes; these fabrics can be styled in many different ways. Palio di Siena embodies passion and elegance. Like the Tuscan city for which it is named, this Ardecora collection unites tradition with the present-day, introducing modern interpretations of classic motifs.

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ISKO becomes member of ZDHC foundation ISKO, a Turkish fabric producer, continues to push forward its Responsible Innovation strategy by becoming a signatory member of ZDHC foundation, as its first and only Turkish contributor. ISKO is now joining forces with other 94 ZDHC contributors, a list including brands, value chain affiliates and associates, to protect consumers, workers and the environment. The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme aims to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textiles, leather and footwear value chains. Joining ZDHC, companies commit to leading the adoption and implementation of ZDHC tools, which include amongst others the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines, the ZDHC Gateway and the ZDHC MRSL. “When it comes to fashion and denim production, ISKO is continuously taking responsibility to support the industry with best

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practices to lead the way in terms of sustainability, innovation and citizenship,” the company explains.

Non-stop commitment ISKO is the only denim mill in the world to have been awarded both the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel for ISKO Earth Fit. This is a denim fabric collection made with lower impact and alternative raw material options such as organic cotton, recycled cotton and recycled polyester from PET bottles. The third collection was recently presented on the occasion of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2018. Arquas, ISKO’s innovative fabric platform for the performance apparel market, now includes ISKO Earth Fit items, which can claim the most stringent certifications for commitment to responsible innovation.

Responsible processes For all ISKO’s fabrics, new finishing technologies minimise water usage, saving thousands of tonnes in 2017. ISKO’s automation systems, installed in the weaving halls, can save over 1,7 million kWh of energy per year and reduce carbon emissions by over 114 tonnes. The heat and steam from the production cycle are captured and re-used, minimising energy consumption. In 2016, over 1,100 lamps were replaced with more efficient ones, saving nearly 86,000 kWh of energy and reducing carbon emissions by about 56 tonnes/year.

Pre-certified EPDs for all products In order to fully understand the impacts of the textiles supply chain, and where better choices can be made, ISKO has worked to obtain Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) of all of its 25,000 denim products, in line with ISO 14040 and ISO 14044. An LCA is a globally recognised methodology used to assess and quantify the environmental footprint of a product, considering its impacts across the entire product lifecycle from raw material to finished product. In order to ensure the validity and replicability of LCAs, publicly available and independently verified Environmental Product Declarations (EPDs) have been produced by ISKO, in line with ISO 14025. “ISKO has become the first denim manufacturer globally to obtain precertified EPDs for all of its products, grouped into nine categories,” the company reports. “These results will be used to create the independently devised Product Category Rules (PCRs) for future denim industry EPDs.”

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ÖZKAYAOĞULLARI RULES GOING TO SUCCESS * Producing a wide variety of home textile products and selling professionally in domestic and foreign market with “ÖZPER” brand, Özkayaoğulları has its own rules and principles for guaranteed success and satisfaction. Özkayaoğulları is a family business established in 1990 to operate in the construction industry. Later the company stepped into the textile sector in 2004. Producing competitive home textile products under its respectful brand of Özper, the company has been continuing to develop its production and activities. The jacquard textile factory of Özkayaoğulları in Bursa is one of the leading facilities operating in the tulle, organza curtain-fantasy production. Total production area of the factory is 2500 square meters where an annual capacity of 1.500.000 meters of fabrics is produced. The plant is equipped with the latest model weaving machinery to respond to customer demands more quickly. The company attaches extra importance on quality as well. Another factor which Özkayaoğulları prioritizes is innovation. Thanks to its R&D team the company produces highest quality level of innovative curtains and fabrics. Özkayaoğulları has been operating in all areas of production technology, design and service addressing to the values of every culture and nation. Talking about their current situation and goals, Yılmaz Özkaya of the company outlined, “If you set your plans properly the success follows. If you believe in a discipline, team spirit, love and respect, the success will definitely follow.

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Our company team has been working with the highest level of motivation and determination to provide customer satisfaction.

This is the essence of our success. Customer satisfaction should be the first priority to ensure the quality of an organization. We care for this and I believe we got it properly. We are a flexible organization to produce the best, to deliver in the shortest time and to follow up after the sales. We always get positive feedbacks. If there is a problem at any of the processes, from production to sales, we spare no effort to solve it immediately. Our high quality principles are efficiency, punctuality, intensive teamwork, discipline, honesty, fairness, customer focus and most importantly to give importance to social values.â&#x20AC;?

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Chinese businessmen eye investment opportunities in Turkey’s Van

hinese Ambassador to Ankara Yu Hongyang and an accompanying delegation of businessmen visited the eastern province of Van where they met city Governor Murat Zorluoğlu, visited the city's Chamber of Commerce and Industry (TSO) and met local businessmen. Van TSO Vice Chairman Fevzi Çeliktaş and the members of the board carried out commercial and economic negotiations with the Chinese delegation on June, 2018. Van is the center of attraction for investment, Çeliktaş said during the visit. "It is a suitable environment for investment and a virgin region geographically. The fact that Van borders Iran makes our province attractive in terms of investments. With its potential, Van will be an important investment center, especially for Chinese businessmen." Chinese businessmen, remarking that they try to find business opportunities in different sectors, said they offer solutions in fields such as construction, communication, mining, oil, natural gas, environment,

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new forms of energy, urban planning, transportation, textiles and health and that they aim to cooperate and increase investments in the city. Van TSO Assembly member Müslüm Erbay said that Van is a very important investment center with underground and overland assets. "Our perlite, pumice and zinc assets are ready to be processed. We have already carried out meetings with Chinese firms." Van is geographically an important city, Ambassador Hongyang said. Indicating that they came to the city to examine investment possibilities, Hongyang said they know that the region needs investment. "The partnerships of Turkish and Chinese businesspeople will be positively reflected in the trade of the two countries. I have been in Iran for 15 years. Thus, I know Van is an important city for Iran. We want to evaluate these opportunities. Hereafter, we are thinking of coming here more often," the ambassador said.

German exhibitors attract visitors at Techtextil NA

igh-Tex from Germany made a guest appearance at Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas in Atlanta for the second time last week. At the special exhibition organised by the Federal Ministry of Economics and Energy, in cooperation with the Association of the German Trade Fair Industry, a total of 66 companies presented technical textiles, nonwovens, textile-processing machines, smart textiles and textile-research projects to the trade visitors. The textiles sector made its first appearance in the USA in 2000. This was followed by highly successful presentations in Shanghai in 2002, in Mumbai in 2007 and in Moscow in 2012. “Taking High-Tex from Germany to Atlanta again was a very good decision,” said Detlev Rünger, German Consul General in Atlanta.

“The southeast of the USA has a long tradition of textile manufacturing. It is home to many companies that are always on the lookout for innovative textiles and machines for textile production and processing.” 38

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Good platform

“Fairs bring people together. And this was evident here in Atlanta. With the overseas exhibition programme, we give small to medium-sized companies the chance to show their products in foreign markets,” said Patrick Specht of the Trade Fair

Policy and EXPO Participations division of the BMWi.

“High-Tex from Germany within the framework of Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas was a very good platform for our small to medium-sized companies. After Techtextil and Texprocess in Frankfurt, these two events are the second-most important editions of the trade-fair duo. ‘High-Tex from Germany’ came fully up to our expectations and anyone who failed to take part missed a great opportunity to be noticed,” added

Marc Lorch, Member of the Board of Zwissler Holding, who represented the participating companies as exhibitor president.

In addition to the appealing exhibition-stand concept and the excellent organisation, the companies taking part were particularly pleased with the high visitor standard. “We regularly exhibit at Techtextil North America but taking part in High-Tex for Germany resulted in our best ever day at a fair here. The pavilion is a real eye-catcher,” said Thomas Wiederer, Area Sales Manager, Brückner Textile Technologies. Cultivating customer relations Besides gaining new customers, the focus of the companies taking part in High-Tex from Germany was on cultivating customer relations. “The German pavilion in Atlanta once again gave us a good opportunity to get to know the US market better. We have had a factory in the vicinity of Atlanta for two years now and aim to expand our network in the long term,” said Ronny Schröder, Associate Sales Director Technical and Comfort Products, Sandler.

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“We like making presentations within the framework of the German pavilion very much”, added Georg Voggenreiter, Technical Sales, Maschinenfabrik Herbert Meyer. “Once again, High-Tex from Germany was a good starting point for cultivating contacts with our customers in the USA.” The companies taking part in High-Tex from Germany made their presentations on around 1,300 square metres of exhibition space with their own exhibition stands, with selected exhibits on a central Plaza, in guided tours and no less than 35 lectures. Additionally, the German Institutes of Textile and Fibre Research, the Association of the Finishing, Yarns, Woven Fabrics and Technical Textiles Industry, the TübingenReutlingen-Zollernalb location agency and the German American Chamber of Commerce of the Southern US provided insights into current research projects and offered information about the sector.

TARQUINIO TARQUINIO is an extremely luxurious jacquard velour which dazzles with an innovative weave development. The pattern of an endlessly intertwined knot is created by changing pile densities in the velour, produced by the viscose yarns in the warp. This almost gives the impression of a plain fabric with an even, raised pattern. The hardwearing nature of this fabric combined with the fresh colours make TARQUINIO a particularly elegant upholstery fabric.

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QUIRINIO With its spectacular jacquard pattern, QUIRINIO is the highlight of the collection. The luxurious material composition woven on a fine silk warp makes this decoration fabric look uniquely elegant. The viscose, linen and cotton weft yarns give the weave a pleasant feel and create widely varying structures that contrast with the silk satin. Ornamental tendrils enclose the likeness of Michelangeloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s David. The finest jacquard structures imitate the superb sculptural quality of the marble statue. The pattern is a unique depiction of Italian Classicism.

ROMOLO The prestigious, fashionable colour palette of ROMOLO combines typical silk attributes such as luxurious lustres and high colour brilliance. The surface of this decoration fabric features different weave structures that give the item its unique character and relief whilst creating an enchanting effect. The attractive satin is woven on a silk warp with a cotton weft in different colours, producing a delicate striĂŠ effect in the background. The striĂŠ is also a subtly transparent decoration on the plain surface of the silk satin. ROMOLO is characterised by a clear, graphic pattern based on horizontal stripes

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DUOMO DUOMO is a luxurious and innovative upholstery fabric. What makes it special is the high, dense pile which brings out the fine lines of the ornamental pattern in the background. This creates a lovely interplay between the elegantly shimmering, dense velour and the shiny lurex weft yarn in the background. DUOMO bubbles over with luxury and elegance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a hardwearing upholstery fabric in eight colour combinations.

PIURE The non-woven wallcovering PIURE comes in twelve colours with a subtle pattern. Inspired by textile structures, PIURE follows on wonderfully from the SAHCO fabric collection. PIURE appeals in particular in neutral, subtle shades, but also features two colours that are bang on trend: coral and aqua. The use of mica pigments gives the colours a restrained mother-of-pearl shimmer. The manufacturing technique in a wet-in-wet rotation print means that the graphic pattern looks very subtle. This means that PIURE can easily be used over a wide surface and represents a high-quality opportunity for decorating wall surfaces. This 70 cm wide wallcovering is available as a 10m roll product.

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DALSTON Woven from FR polyester fibre, our upholstery velvet DALSTON features an attractive graphic jacquard pattern of circles and squares, enhanced visually by the rep in the background. With its combination of dynamic movement and geometry, the look reflects the energy-charged DALSTON district in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s East End. The dense pile lends it a pleasantly soft touch and the portfolio of 12 colours rounds off the range â&#x20AC;&#x201C; alongside its excellent durability and the positive fact that the fabric is washable.

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proposte 2018

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proposte 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

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EVTEKS FAIR 2018

China supplies one third of EUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apparel and textiles

Imports of apparel and textile products to the European Union member countries, with a population exceeding 510 million, reached EUR 110.9 billion in 2017. Of these, EUR 92.6 billion were apparel products and EUR 18.3 billion were imports of textile products. 70

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The country where the EU imports from the most is China. Of the approximately EUR 110.9 billion imported in 2017, EUR 37 billion worth of products came from China, which is 33.3% of all of the EUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apparel and textile imports.

Import of textile products The textile products, including yarn, fibre, fabric, and home textile, imported by the European Union countries from all over the world in 2017 increased by 3%, compared to the previous year, and amounted to EUR 18.3 billion. Over EUR 1 billion worth of textiles were imported from four countries. The share of these four countries in imports constituted 61.3%.

The most important textiles supplier of the European Union is China. In 2017, it exported textile products worth EUR 5.5 billion, followed by Turkey. According to Eurostat, the EUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imports of textile products from Turkey last year increased by 0.7%, compared to the previous year, and were valued at EUR 3.3 billion. The third largest textiles supplier of the EU is India. Approximately EUR 1.3 billion worth of textile products were imported in 2017. The fourth largest textiles supplier of the EU is South Korea, where textile imports of EUR 1 billion 58 million were imported in 2017.

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Import of clothing According to the European Statistical Office (Eurostat), Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing exports to the European Union ranked first, at about 34%. The EU imported apparel worth EUR 31.4 billion from China in 2017. Bangladesh ranked second, with around EUR 15.8 billion (17%), Turkey ranked third, with EUR 10.8 billion (11.7%). India ranked fourth, with EUR 6.2 billion, while Pakistan came fifth, with EUR 4.4 billion. The share of EU clothing imports made in 10 countries is 89%. There are three countries exporting over EUR 10 billion worth of products to the EU. These are China, Bangladesh, and Turkey. The share of these three countries in total clothing exports to the EU is 62.6%.

MoOD + Indigo 2018

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MoOD + Indigo 2018

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MoOD + Indigo 2018

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Realizing the serious gap in kitchen and kitchen textile products, in the domestic home textile market, Happylife Textile started manufacturing in the industry in 2000. It initiated to create demand in the industry as a result of studies on waterproof kitchen aprons and sample product designs by taking into consideration of the demand of product-production related to kitchen and kitchen products in the textile. 80

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ffering a wide range of product from 2006 to present, Happylife Textile Kitchen Aprons made a great progress in increasing production volume of waterproof kitchen aprons for children, pot holders and kitchen gloves stepping up R&D activities in 2013. The company also tripled production potential providing online sale and supply in local and overseas markets, e-commerce portals through focusing on creation designs. With a structure foreseeing changing in the industry, Happylife Textile has leadership and creativity and a strong business sense. Focusing and changing management strategy we have been carrying out believing in our country is a part of this robust structure. Happy Textile aims to be one of modal participants of the national economy thanks to its investments, create more added-value presenting a high potential of growth and profitability, to contribute social progress developing corporate citizenship culture as well as economic growth and to lead its sector as a sample business firm. With its all components, Happylife Textile will continue to enhance features of offering â&#x20AC;&#x153;firstsâ&#x20AC;?, leading the field and leadership it has since it was established.

Tuncay Kulaber

We, as Happylife Textile, aim to be one of driving forces behind the textile industry through a management approach that is innovative, inquisitive and open for improvement in all areas from customer relations to human resources, from market expectation to technological advances on the basis of customer satisfaction-oriented works. We are on the way to becoming a model corporation which have a voice in the industry as a strong brand due to steady, quality production and service in line with ever-changing needs and demands in the global market. Intending to make contribution to both local and regional economies generating more investment and more employment day by day and to accelerate community development process; Happylife Textile is advancing confidently along the way to becoming an ever-growing group that provides a competitive advantage focusing on customer satisfaction, that competes with global brands, that makes no concessions on quality, that makes a positive contribution to community and environment. 81

FELLOWSHIP BETWEEN BURSA AND HESSEN WILL REFLECT ON THE COMMON TRADE

ursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry (BTSO) realized an event which will empower economic relations between Bursa and its sister state Hessen in Germany. Approximately 40 business people from Hessen Region has laid foundations of new collaborations at the gathering with members of BTSO.

visit during our abroad visitations. We work in solidarity and harmony on behalf of the development of new collaborations. The bilateral meeting, we have realized today is a proof of our good relations. We will continue to work for the development of bilateral trade between Hessen and Bursa.

BTSO continue to make moves in order to increase the foreign trade volume of Bursa. BTSO has gathered over 16 thousand foreign buyers with its members in Bursa through foreign buyer delegation programs which organized within the scope of Commercial Safari and Development of International Competitiveness (UR-GE) projects has recently welcomed a delegation of 40 business people from Hessen, Germany. The b2b even has been organized in collaboration with MUSIAD Hessen Branch and attended by Mr. Aytuğ Onur, Mr. Haşim Kılıç and Mr. Muhsin Koçaslan; Members of the Board of Directors of BTSO, Mrs. Gülçin Güleç Uçar; Clerk of the Assembly of BTSO, Mr. Musa Aydın; President of MUSIAD Hessen Branch and representatives of over 100 companies from Bursa.

2,2-BILLION-DOLLAR WORTH OF TRADE BETWEEN TURKEY AND HESSEN

“TRADE BETWEEN BURSA AND HESSEN MUST INCREASE” As Mr. Aytuğ Onur; Member of the Board of Directors of BTSO stated that Germany is the most important trade partner of Turkey during his opening speech. He continued by saying that the trade between Bursa and Germany is developing day by day and reminded the fact that Bursa has realized 2-billion-dollar worth of export to Germany in 2017 and collaborative work of establishments such as BTSO and MUSIAD Hessen has significant roles in this success. “MUSIAD branches are one the most important stops for us to

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Mr. Musa Aydın; President of MUSIAD Hessen Branch provided valuable information about Hessen Region in Germany during his speech and stated that Hessen is the 5th largest region in Germany with a total trade of 60 billion dollars. The trading volume between Turkey and Germany is at the level of 2,2-billion-dollars. Mr. Aydın also expressed that the current trading volume must be increased in the future. “BURSA IS FULLY FOCUSED ON GROWTH” Mr. Musa Aydın; President of MUSIAD Hessen Branch stated that as the MUSIAD Hessen Branch they wish to act as a bridge between Turkey and Germany and develop economic relations. “Bursa is a city that gave its full focus on growth which we endeavour to support. We came to Bursa with a delegation of 40 business people which are leading business representatives in Germany. The organized bilateral meeting is a great opportunity to promote and revive of our economic relations. I wish to thank the Board of Directors of BTSO for their efforts to realize this meeting.” After the opening speeches delegation from Hessen Branch and representatives of Bursa business world have sat down for b2b meetings.

MARK ALEXANDER

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MONTAGE Decorative Prints and Weaves The interiors with real character are those which have evolved over time. This collection has been created to achieve that uniquely relaxed, lived-in feel. It is not a cookie-cutter co-ordinated look, but a series of strong and original weaves and prints, in different yarns, weights and styles. The scene is set by two large leafy prints, with the feel of vintage fabrics, in subtle variations of natural colours - rust, tobacco, silver birch, gunmetal and soft, indigo-inspired blues and greys. Underpinning these are intricately-woven small-repeat linens, comforting woollen checks and chevrons, and sleek ikat cottons, which, may be combined with some robust plain linens or rich velvet to create a fascinating room. The casually-curated look of this collection works with antiques of every era, as well as the finest modern furniture. Created for the luxury interiors market Mark Alexander offers versatile fabrics that embody the finest materials, craftsmanship and the richness found in refined simplicity

MARK ALEXANDER

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LOOM Plain Linen Weave The tawny shade of a pumpkin, the blue of an Atlantic wave, the colours of sisal, string and oak bark, the green of a silvery willow leaf: all the shades of these 20 plain linens take their cue from natural colours and work to perfection with the many neutrals at the core of the Mark Alexander palette. The collections are never co-ordinated, but they take their look from an overarching theme that runs through the DNA of the brand. These linens, made from a specially-created crimped yarn, are washed to create a beautifully relaxed finish and bring the texture of the weave into relief. 20 colours 90% Linen, 10% Polyamide

MARK ALEXANDER

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EPOQUE Cotton Velvet The very deep and dense pile of this cotton velvet, with its soft and natural sheen, brings a certain glamour that complements the weaves and prints in the Mark Alexander family. There are many neutral shades here too, from the off-white of a birch bark which is complemented by tones from darkest indigo to a vibrant tobacco, with all the colours chosen to point up the other fabrics within the palette of the brand. 20 colours 100% Cotton

Kempaş raised annual production capacity from 5,000 tons to 7,500 tons through machinery investments in 2018. FW - First could you tell us briefly about Kempaş İplik?

Q - Kempaş is an ever-growing company that increases its production capacity with every passing day. What are your investment and production plans for 2019? We tripled production through investments in 2016, 2017 and 2018. We increased our production capacity setting up a new factory building along with the factory that was built in 2004. For now we have no any investment plan for next year, but that doesn’t mean it won’t happen. Now we continue to use 13 Open-End yarn machineries. We are advancing confidently along the way to achieve our goals. We will use significant opportunities to pursue our investments. Q - Why do you focus on regenerated yarn production? Since our establishment in 2004, we have an innovation-oriented business culture. When we made a foray into the industry manufacturing viscose yarn, but in due course, we noticed FAIRWORLD 90

demand for regenerated yarn, so it’s an opportunity for us. Everything can change in a few years, even just a few months. You have to forecast the future and plan for it as you struggle with everyday problems. Renegarated yarn is a product that can replace authentic cotton yarn. We started manufacturing yarn blending recycled, that’s regenerated cotton, Ne30/1 (Nm50/1) that is our main production with original polyester staple fiber. Thus we both brought down the costs and made a valuable contribution to the nature protection using recycled raw material. Q - Do you have export? 50 percent of our production is exported to foreign markets. Now we export directly to Russia, Ukraine, Italy, Poland and Brazil. Our yarns are used in 18 countries as export registered. We got into the Far East market recently. We plan to increase the export following closely textile exhibitions.

Established under the leadership of Kemal Yağcı, Kempaş İplik started manufacturing of yarn building its own facility in Uşak Leather (Mixed) Organized Industrial Zone in 2004 with a 50-year heritage of experience and business life in yarn production. As a fast growing and developing company, Kempaş İplik manufacturers regenerated yarn over an area of 40.000 square meters.Taking quality as our core concept, we have been using the most quality raw materials in the production. Kempaş İplik gradually improves itself to be a leading brand in its area with upwards of a hundred workfellows. It raised annual production capacity from 5,000 tons to 7,500 tons through machinery investments in 2018. The company continues to grow in not just textile sector, also with tourism and lodging industry investments.

Q - To which manufacturers/industries do you currently sell products? Our products are demanded by various fields of ready to wear industry. Yarns we produced have great usage diversity because they are manufactured between NE6/1 and NE36/1. Now we manufacture mainly shirt fabric, two and three ply fleece and supply product to many weaving and knitting producers, particularly sock, underclothes. Q - What do you think of impacts of the depreciation of the TLR on yarn industry? The currency devaluation against the U.S. dollar, the Euro and the British Pound is not only in Turkey, but also on a global basis, so impacts of the fall in currencies run very deep in the global textile industry. Of course when the Lira is one of world’s worst performing currencies this year, Turkish manufacturers are more affected by it. Today if you look at only small businesses in the textile, you can see clearly that they slowed the production down visibly since August. Also you have to tackle the issue with all textile industry, not only yarn because all sectors, from fibers to yarn, knitting to outfit, are linked to each other. Foreign currency based raw material input comes with a price rise on textile products. Moreover, when all production costs are linked to the currency or they turn into cash in advance, besides raw material input; the sector is negatively affected by them. However one of its positive effects is that Turkey becomes a production market increasing export opportunities. It became a shining star of European countries in terms of both prices and the proximity. Q - How do you see the future of the industry? We maintain our competitive power thanks to quality production and a wide experience. But conversely the appreciation of the foreign currencies and high rate of inflation take toll on industry. All these negative factors impose more burdens on manufacturers. Unfortunately undercapitalized companies go out of business one by one. Notwithstanding textile is an industry that will never be shut down in Turkey. Also we can say “the driving force of the world market” for Turkey’s role in the global textile industry. Textile have is always a strong potential for the future. Of course there have been, and will be, rises and falls. We need to use opportunities in periods of recession. 91

TURKISH TEXTILE SECTOR WORKING TO IMPROVE TURKEY IMAGE IN EUROPE

urkish textile manufacturers have been in efforts to improve Turkey’s image in Europe, the top market for the sector, a leading association president has announced. During a panel on June 20, Turkey’s Clothing Industrialists Association (TGSD) President Hadi Karasu also said the sector aimed at reaching $18 billion or more in exports this year, adding that the target was to increase this amount to $25 billion in the next five years. The sector made $17 billion exports last year. Karasu noted the sector was now working to improve Turkey’s image in the country’s and the sector’s top export market, the European Union. Turkey made almost 72 percent of its ready-made clothing exports to the bloc. “We have commenced proactive initiatives to evade some negative thoughts by boosting our contract with NGOs in the EU countries, mainly in Germany, Spain, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands,” he said, adding that the sector players recently came together with their German counterparts. “We will hold such meetings in other EU countries in the upcoming period,” the TGSD president added, as quoted by Reuters on June 20. The sector also needs to improve the quality of the labor force to increase its competitiveness in global markets, he also said, adding that the sector’s five-year roadmap was based on three main pillars: Making close contact with the sector’s markets, raising added-value in production and increasing sustainability. Karasu also noted that the sector increased its exports by 10 percent in the first five months of the year compared to the same period of 2017.

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H&M has been sourcing home textiles from India for nearly three decades for its global clientele and wants to increase the same “For our belief in the online model in India, we are investing in a warehouse in Mumbai that should be ready by 2018 end and would help us get closer to our customers,” said Janne Einola. He also said India has been a strong supplier for home textiles, linen, lingerie, accessories and wovens. He added that, “We are assessing how we may source garments, of course, we need to look at the country’s knowledge (in that domain).” He said that H&M has committed an investment of Rs 720 crore in the Indian market. Einola commented soon after it opened its 31st outlet in the country in Ahmedabad that, “India is better placed as a supplier for us. Several of our SKUs in the H&M Home brand are sourced from India. We have asked our Indian suppliers to find out ways on how we may improve sourcing from India.” Swedish retailer H&M has been sourcing home textiles from India for nearly three decades for its global clientele but is now keen to improve its sourcing

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of garments from the country, two and half years after foraying into the Indian market as expressed by H&M country manager Janne Einola. He added that, “The consumer behaviour in the West is changing faster than anticipated. India is demographically different it is an emerging market and consumers are (still) learning (how) to shop. Online is not eating into our offline business here and would not cannibalise on offline sales at all.” Also quoting that globally online contributes 12% to H&M sales and even the strongest market for the brand, Germany, has mere 20% sales coming from online business. Einola said he wants to introduce H&M Home and cosmetics here, but is “looking at the right timing to introduce them.” Einola said unlike the Western markets, where several stores reported unsold goods, affecting margins of the company, H&M India has not had any such issues.

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China’s once-booming textile and clothing industry faces tough times

t the bustling Canton Fair in southern China, secondgeneration textile manufacturer Pan Jing has drastically marked down her prices. The sign at her booth says it all: “Stock very cheap, factory for sale ... stock clearance.”It wasn’t an easy decision for Pan’s family to sell the 32-year-old cotton mill started by her father in 1986, a time when China was emerging as the global centre for textile and clothing production. For years, they have been making household cotton products – from pot holders and oven mitts to dishcloths and towels – and exporting them to the United States and Europe. More recently they tried to upgrade their product lines at the 40,000 sq m factory in the southern Guangxi region, adding recycled cotton shopping bags and pillows in the shape of emojis in a bid to bring in more customers. But rising labour costs and slow growth in overseas demand left Pan with no choice but to sell the business to a bigger textile manufacturer with a domestic focus, in the hope that new capital can keep it afloat. “I don’t see a future in continuing to sell these low-value goods,” said Pan, who has been attending the Guangzhou fair for over a decade. The trade fair, which runs until May 5, is the country’s oldest and biggest export-oriented event. China’s textile and apparel makers are going through a painful industrial restructuring. While the country is still the world’s largest clothing exporter with enormous production capacity, oversupply at home, high labour costs, and rising global protectionism have all eroded its competitiveness.

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Pan’s company brochures for the trade fair over the years reflect the changes in the industry. Six years ago, the tag line was “To be proud of Made-in-China”, while last year’s was “Low-carbon and environmentally friendly cyclical development”. This year they just had a flier made to advertise the stock clearance. China’s market share by value in the global textile and clothing industry fell from 38.6 per cent in 2015 to 35.8 per cent in 2016, with a downward trend in major apparel importing regions such as the US, European Union and Japan. Since 2014, exports of Chinese textiles and clothing have declined sharply from about US$236 billion in 2014 to US$206 billion in 2016, according to the World Trade Organisation. Chinese customs data showed exports of clothes and accessories fell by 0.4 per cent last year from 2016, while textiles exports saw annual growth of 4.5 per cent last year. Meanwhile, labour costs in China have been rising steadily. The minimum wage in the southern boomtown of Shenzhen is now about US$336 per month – more than double the rate in some Southeast Asian countries. Hit by the industry restructuring, some of the big clothing brands have struggled to make a profit and secure finance. Revenues have been sliding at Fuguiniao, a Hong Kong-listed menswear and shoe manufacturer based in Fujian province, since 2015. The company had a net loss of 10 million yuan (US$1.57 million) in the first half of last year, a bond default this year, and it has racked up debts of at least 3 billion yuan.

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Although analysts say Chinese textile and clothing makers are at low risk from the looming trade war between China and the US, given that they export so little to America compared to other sectors, US brands are starting to diversify their sourcing.

But Sheng Lu, assistant professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, said “made in China” products were not losing their price competitiveness because of the overall supply chain efficiency.

A survey of 34 executives from leading US fashion companies last year found that, for the first time, fewer US brands were looking to China for products, even though the country remains the top sourcing destination for the industry worldwide.

“It is also important to recognise that China is playing an increasingly important role as a textile supplier for apparel exporting countries in Asia,” Sheng said.

“US fashion companies are not ‘putting all their eggs in one basket’, and the most common sourcing model is shifting from ‘China plus many’ to ‘China plus Vietnam plus many,’” according to the US Fashion Industry Association, which conducted the survey. For many US brands, a third of their products now come from China, a third from Vietnam, and the rest is from other countries, the survey found.

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According to Sheng’s research, Bangladesh’s textile imports from China, measured by value, rose from 39 per cent in 2005 to 47 per cent in 2015, and similar trends could be seen in Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia and other developing countries in Asia. “A meaningful indicator to watch in the future is the value of “made in China” goods within other Asian countries’ clothing exports to the world,” he said.

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The Key To Confidence: What Does It Take to Build Trust with Busy, Sustainability-Minded Consumers? In the age of “fake news” and “greenwashing,” it’s no surprise that 64% of consumers in “The Key To Confidence: Consumers and Textile SustainabilityMindsets, Changing Behaviors, and Outlooks” who were aware of eco-textiles claimed that they check at least some of the time to see if sustainability claims are true. That number increased to 69% of the Millennials and to 74% of the parents of young children who participated in OEKO-TEX®’s global research survey. Combine that skepticism with time-starvation and it’s easy to see how brands, certifiers, and retailers can work together to provide reliable shortcuts to trust for these busy consumers.

Where do consumers get this advance sustainability information about brands and retailers? Here, age is a factor. For Millennials in the OEKO-TEX® study, the Internet ranked highest with 69% of these 18-36-yearolds relying on it compared to 55% of Boomers+. Social media is another favorite with 55% of Millennials as opposed to only 25% of Boomers+. Three quarters (74%) of Boomers+ chose mainstream media as their preferred source.

To simplify the shopping process, many sustainabilityconscious consumers choose to do their home-work in advance. Doing so establishes a brand set, or a collection of brands that align with their values. That brand set can include clothing and home textiles brands as well as retailer brands and certifications. Forty-two percent of consumers in the study said they like to know the values and principles of the brands they buy, 34% want to know about a brand’s sustainability practices,

In store and on product are two prime point-of-sale opportunities to educate and influence consumers. More than half (52%) of consumers in “The Key To Confidence” research said that they check textiles for a label from an independent organization that verifies claims are true. Almost half (49%) read the fiber content labels to determine what kind of fabric is used. Forty-one percent judge a textile product by where it was manufactured.

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and 38% like to know what small steps brands have taken to be more sustainable – even if they’re not fully ‘green’.

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hese research findings clearly support a multi-media approach to communicating a brand’s or retailer’s commitment to environmental and social responsibility. First, consumers are interested in what brands themselves say on websites, in advertising, and on social media. Next, consumers appreciate third-party validation with certifications and labels from trusted organizations. Third, information available while shopping, such as signage, hang tags and packaging, labels, thorough online product descriptions, and informed sales associates, can be highly effective in providing relevant textile sustainability information. Consumers are quickly learning and being taught about textile sustainability. They are looking for information to help them do the right thing. They rely on brands, certifiers, and retailers to do some of the work for them to make shopping for and buying sustainable products

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a positive, time-efficient, and feel-good process. Said one Millennial in “The Key To Confidence” study, “The world is heading towards disaster due to global warming and climate change so we have to do everything possible to protect the environment. That means buying sustainable products, supporting industries that produce environmentally friendly products, and thinking about workers in those industries.” Brands, certifiers, and retailers who work together to provide credible information and reassurances will make it easier for busy consumers to do the right thing, provide another small step towards a more sustainable lifestyle, and enable more buying without worry about impact on the environment or society. And those are the factors that will establish trust and loyalty with today’s skeptical, sustainability-minded consumers.

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SALON BLEU

ELEGANCE AND TIMELESSNESS The British nobility and well-to-do people of the 16th century not only owned their principal residence in the countryside, but also a generously sized townhouse. This townhouse, distinctly smaller than the country residence, was inhabited only in the Social Season with its many balls and receptions, when the privileged classes moved to town with their servants. Often also called “Brownstones”, such houses are found strung together in many places, including New York, London and Paris. The elegance and timelessness of these buildings has provided inspiration for the new collection Salon Bleu.

SALON BLEU Pursuant to the title of the collection “Salon Bleu”, the range focuses on cool colour nuances such as navy, moon shadow and sage, complemented by poetic rosy-pink, Marsala and natural hues. The highlights of the Salon Bleu collection are the lavishly embroidered articles Constance, Chiné and Connaisseur.

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The quality Constance thrills with a generous blossom interpretation, which comes beautifully into its own on the elegant linen/cotton blend. Constance is available in 5 extraordinary colourways. The design of the quality ChinĂŠ displays a graphic interpretation of historic ikat documents. The partial use of lurex yarn and the silk blend in the ground lend the fabric additional sophistication. ChinĂŠ is available in four imposing colourways.

CASUAL ELEGANCE The delicate embroidery Connaisseur convinces with a highly coloured, floral embroidery design on a structured linen/viscose ground. Connaisseur is available in four elegant colourways. The small-patterned check designs Chivan and Charon, as well as the plain fabrics Chanchal and Chandler, are ideal complements in the upholstery segment.

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