PERFORMANCE YARN
RADIFLOOR® PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
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Turkish artists aim to revive its 700 years old Tokat style hand print art Group of artists from Western Turkey’s Izmir province seek to revive the 700-year-old Ottoman printmaking tradition, Tokat style printmaking, also called calico printing, is a hand print art in which patterns are imprinted on textile fabrics, usually of cotton or calico material. It’s named for its birthplace, the Tokat province of mid northern Turkey. Calico printing is an ancient art that originated in India and Turkey. The bright patterned fabrics were imported by European countries until the late 17th century, when the techniques of production were imitated there as well. The Turkish artists are trying to keep the art alive, giving courses to young artists and exhibiting prints throughout Turkey. Artist, Emel Ardahanlı regularly shares her knowledge at exhibitions, festivals and symposiums across Turkey to promote and educate about the Tokat method of printmaking. Ardahanlı has trained twenty students and is now crafting the art at workshops in Çeşme, a seaside town in Izmir province. This means that new masters will grow up and this art will not die. Ardahanlı emphasizes the continued use of traditional methods, specifically in the production of all patterns, cloths, molds and dyes. 2
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Sustainable in many different ways: recycling at Trevira On the 4th October 2017 a new brand was introduced at Trevira: Trevira SINFINECO®. This label may be carried by all textiles that contain sustainable Trevira products. Sustainable, innovative, high-value and responsible – these are the values the new brand stands for. As an industrial enterprise, Trevira is conscious of its special responsibility for an intact environment and has long advocated the recycling of valuable raw materials and waste products. Trevira CEO Klaus Holz: “We at Trevira wish to preserve the environment and at the same time work to create value. These are the criteria of our sustainability concept.“ Creation of the new brand is therefore only a logical step, one that enables customers to label their sustainable Trevira products as such. Trevira is known for the high quality of its products. In every way recycled products are as good as the original materials in terms of quality and performance. Two vital elements in Pre-Consumer Recycling and an important concept in Post-Consumer Recycling form part of the sustainability strategy of Trevira to conserve resources and maintain value. : In the area of Pre-Consumer Recycling, on the one hand, residual materials resulting from the manufacture of polyester fibres and filaments in Bobingen and Guben, dependent on the manufacturing step, are processed in the agglomeration plant and restored to become serviceable primary material. 4
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The recyclates are then fed back to our fibre and filament spinning mills, to be made into new top-quality products. On the other hand, in fibre production there occurs in the manufacture of tow a small proportion of tow that cannot be used for converting and has to be cut out. Instead of selling this material as waste, it is cut up, pressed into balls and then carded / combed by a partner, resulting in a 1A quality product. The GRS certification (Global Recycled Standard) is requested for this. As with converter tow from new material, the recycled tow is mostly incorporated into polyester wool blends (55 % PET / 45 % wool), which are used primarily in corporate wear and uniforms. In the area of Post-Consumer Recycling, Trevira offers filament yarns consisting of 100 % recycled PET bottles. Our parent company Indorama manufactures very high quality recycled chips from PET bottles. Since only transparent PET bottles are used in Thailand, the flakes and chips are of a particularly good and very uniform quality. The recycled chips, fibres and filaments from Indorama bear the GRS certificates (Global Recycled Standard) and RCS-NL (Recycled Claim Standard). Trevira processes the regranulate made by Indorama from bottle flakes into filament yarns consisting 100 % of recycled material. The filament yarns are available in titres 167 and 76 dtex normal polyester. Alongside technical applications, they are used in the automotive and apparel sectors. In addition, many promising developments with the recycled material are on their way.
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Sensor FA of the Uster Tester 6 undergoes mill trials The Uster Group, a leading high-technology instrument manufacturer of products for quality measurement and certification of the textile industry headquartered in Switzerland, has announced that the accuracy of yarn count measurement has been tested at various mills with the new Sensor FA of Uster Tester 6 equipment for yarn trading and processing. The classic manual method of count measurement requires two instruments: a yarn reel and a balance. The procedure is slow, labour-intensive and subject to human error. The automatic option, using the Uster Tester 6 with the Sensor FA for automatic fineness, is fast – with testing speeds of 800 m/min. It also needs only one operator and there is no risk of human error. These advantages of automatic count measurement are immense, but the accuracy of the results is the all-important issue. This was the challenge taken up at two spinning mills. Wolfram Soell, textile technologist within Uster Technologies executed the trial on the accuracy of the Uster Tester 6 in a spinning mill in Europe. This customer has a reference yarn, which was tested every week for a long-term observation of the yarn count accuracy in the mill’s laboratory. 8
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The trial ran from January to August 2017, and during the first month the tests were carried out at speeds of both 400 m/min and 800 m/min. It was quickly seen that the measurement results were independent of the testing speed, so the tests continued only at 800 m/ min. During the testing period, results for the 100 per cent combed cotton Ne 30 ring yarn showed minimal variation. Expert analysis of these results demonstrated the excellent accuracy of the Sensor FA for yarn count measurement. The ideal proof of its reliable accuracy, however, would come from a direct comparison with the standard manual method. With respect to count variation, the Sensor FA had much lower variation than the standard method in almost every test. All the parties involved were well satisfied with the conduct and outcome of these trials. The spinners in the trials appreciated the integration of international standards for selection of the predefined yarn length for the tests. This ensured the most accurate yarn count determination, without error-prone human interaction, while also giving the option of customised setting of the predefined yarn length.
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Maglificio Ripa & Asahi Kasei show Roica clean yarn at PV
Maglificio Ripa, a leading producer of innovative knitted textiles, was selected by Asahi Kasei, specialty Japanese fibre producer, as a key partner for Roica Feel Good project for the Roica Clean Fit yarn which was recently exhibited at Premiere Vision in Paris, the global event for fashion professionals that was held from September 19 to 21, 2017.
Paolo Fila, sales manager at Maglificio Ripa said, “We recorded a very positive feedback from our customers at Interfiliere and now, for the very first view, we exhibited our exclusive items at Première Vision, a very important trade show for us. Clean Fit is going to be added to a range of Roica products such as Roica Eco Smart family and Roica Colour Perfect family”. Along with Roica Clean Fit and consistently with its innate “CLEAN oriented” spirit, Maglificio Ripa presented a range of recycled polyamide fabrics combined with the Roica Eco-Smart stretch family for a fully “clean” product. On the high-resolution side, the already successful project Deep by Maglificio Ripa, along with the Roica Colour Perfect family is still gaining position in favour of an elastomer which can be dyed and can also guarantee an excellent colour depth. Maglificio Ripa in collaboration with Roica by Asahi Kasei, also presented the ESSENZA book showing a collection of evergreen fabrics, a “must-have” over the next future five years, based on the collaboration with the Italian artist Paola Lenski.
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Lenzing Launches TENCEL™ Luxe
The new lyocell filament heralds a new era of sustainable cellulose fabrics for the premium luxury market. Basic engineering for bigger scale industrial line started. At an exclusive event in Paris, the Lenzing Group launched a new product: TENCEL™ Luxe. The TENCEL™ Luxe branded lyocell filament is another key milestone in the implementation of the company’s sCore TEN strategy and the first time that Lenzing enters the filament market. It will further support Lenzing’s shift to become a true specialty player in the botanic materials market derived from sustainable wood sources. TENCEL™ Luxe branded filaments are the new player for sustainable high-end cellulose textiles by offering superior aesthetics, performance and comfort level that allow them to be the perfect partner with other noble fibers such as silk, cashmere or wool. The smooth surface of the TENCEL™ branded Luxe filament gives fabrics a silky smooth feel and liquid-like drape for the most sensual silhouettes. Moreover, TENCEL™ Luxe branded filaments are naturally breathable due to their wood-based origin and offer outstanding color fastness, enabling designers to express bold color palettes where creativity knows no boundaries. 12
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TENCEL™ Luxe: a new era in sustainable manufacturing TENCEL™ Luxe eco-botanic lyocell filaments are made from wood pulp, which is sourced from sustainable wood in line with Lenzing’s strict Wood and Pulp Policy. They are produced using Lenzing’s pioneering closed-loop lyocell production process, which has received the “European Award for the Environment” from the European Union. This process ensures minimal environmental impact due to low process water and energy use and raw materials consumption. “We are committed to setting industry standards in order to enhance the protection of our environment while making filaments for fabrics that are designed to appeal to the most sophisticated consumers. The launch of TENCEL™ Luxe is a further sign of our ongoing commitment towards innovation and sustainability”, explains Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “The expansion plan represents the next consistent step in the implementation of our sCore TEN strategy and is a commitment of Lenzing as a hub for research & development and engineering. ”TENCEL™ Luxe is another proof of Lenzing’s innovation strength.
It will open new markets for the company and for its customers and partners and will allow the company to participate in the premium segment of the fabrics market. With the help of TENCEL™ Luxe Lenzing will support the luxury apparel industry to redraw the borders between responsibility and high-end luxury fashion, and is part of Lenzing’s ongoing commitment towards sustainability-driven innovation.
TENCEL™ Luxe will be produced at the Lenzing site in Austria. Lenzing plans to expand the capacity at this site over the coming years and has started the basic engineering for a large scale commercial line for filaments. To optimize a new plant design and start up, this Lenzing site was chosen as the future manufacturing hub for TENCEL™ Luxe. “The decision for the Lenzing site in Austria as a hub for TENCELTM Luxe helps to build up a strong knowledge base for this new technology at the headquarters of the company”, says Heiko Arnold, Chief Technology Officer of the Lenzing Group. “Here we can fully leverage the proximity between operations, research & development, customer service and the engineering organization to accelerate the development of this technology for the production of TENCEL™ Luxe on a bigger industrial scale. ”The decision about a new plant for the production of TENCEL™ Luxe on a bigger industrial scale will be made in the third quarter of 2018.
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Ludhiana based knitters seek higher import duty on man-made fibres
Ludhiana is a hub of knitwear industry in Punjab, having around 5,000 units with a majority of them in the MSME sector, disturbed over the rising imports of man-made fibre textiles from China due to lower import duty, the knitters will be meeting Punjab Finance Minister Manpreet Singh Badal so that the matter could be taken up in next GST Council meeting.
After the implementation of GST, the import duty on man-made fibres has fallen from a cumulative 28.5% (including basic custom duty, countervailing duty, special additional duty, education cess) to about 15.3% (including basic custom duty, education cess and Integrated Goods and Service Tax). Thus, the import has become cheaper by about 13.2%. In addition to this, China, which is the major exporter to India (having 90% market share) provides drawback/incentive of 18% on man-made textile exports. Hence, the manufacturers want higher import duty on man-made fibre textiles so that the domestic industry doesn’t suffer. Ajit Lakra, president, Ludhiana knitters Association said that they have suggested imposing dumping duty on import of man-made fibres as a step to protect the domestic industry. He said that there was a serious gap in import tariff structure wherein there is specific duty on most types of fabrics. But there is no such specific duty on chapter 60 which comprises knitted fabrics. These changes need to be done with immediate effect otherwise the industry will be in doldrums. As major fabric import is being done from China it is widely affecting the domestic industry.
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Marchi & Fildi present new Ecotec creations at Filo, Milan Marchi & Fildi, developers of cotton-based yarns for the textile industry from Italy, are displaying the latest innovations with Ecotec smart cotton and the new Phoenix yarn in a wide range of colours at the 48th edition of Filo, the international B2B exhibition for yarns and fibres, being held on September 27 and 28, 2017, at Milan, Italy, in booth D5-D7. Ecotec smart cotton by Marchi & Fildi is, in fact, the first Made in Italy material obtained through an exclusive, fully traceable and certified production process that transforms 100 per cent cotton yarn already-dyed textile cuts with remarkable efficiency in terms of water, energy, and CO2 savings. As a result of the union of two certified raw materials for a 100 per cent GRS (Global Recycle Standard) yarn in line with the focus of Ecotec by Marchi & Fildi, the company exclusively presents the new Phoenix yarn (50 per cent Ecotec, 50 per cent recycled polyester, NM1/50 GRS-certified) available in a wide choice of trendy colours that don’t need additional dyes, once again underlining the company’s smart-oriented vision. The range of versatile textile products ideal for fashion fabrics, knitwear and hosiery presents two new lines this season: a range of smart solutions set up by the Marchi & Fildi research and development centre in cooperation with a textile style office; and an exclusive range of Ecotec fabrics created by accredited various Ecotec partners. Comatex is showing key developments in Ecotec and linen for light apparel. Euromaglia Srl is presenting refined woven and jersey products, created thanks to perfect processing and a strict production control from raw materials to final products. Manifattura CBM is displaying 100 per cent Made in Italy products, from the design and production of samples, to the woven ranges produced on traditional and 18 new jacquard looms. RDD, part of Valerius group, is a Portuguese circular knitter with strong focus on sustainability. The company has a totally integrated production chain, from R&D to dyeing and finishing offering premium products to top apparel brands worldwide. This season collection includes 23 per cent of Organic and recycled articles, 72 per cent of natural articles, and 5 per cent synthetic articles. Tessuti & Tessuti srl is showing particular knitting stiches and styles that include both fancy jacquards, tubular, double, raised, embossing, stretch, decorative openwork, and devorÊ effects.
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Company leads the allover lace trend with Lace.Express China’s warp knitted fabric producer FuJian TongDe Knitting has become one of the leading manufacturers in the commodity sector for allover lace, as its production capacity has reached 400 tonnes per month this year, thanks to the Lace.Express machine by Karl Mayer. The company made a decision to step into the new field of allover lace in 2014. It ordered its first Lace.Express machine, OJ 59/1 B, 210”, a wider lace machine for the production of allover laces, after its launch at the end of 2016. It has since steadily placed orders for a total 20 machines, supplying allover lace to the demanding fashion market. Journey
Quick and efficient
In 2003 FuJian TongDe Knitting purchased its very first chain link lace machine for producing lace bands. By 2011, it had gradually expanded its lace production capacity to a total of 37 sets of various types of Karl Mayer lace machines.
Before installing the OJ 59/1 B, 210”, TongDe Knitting used a few sets locally made 3-panel and 4-panel Lace machines to cope with the immediate need in the early days of this rising market. Mr Guang Cheng then sold them, replacing them with Karl Mayer machines.
The Karl Mayer Machine can run at a steady high speed of 900 rpm for actual production when using good quality yarns, prepared correctly for the machine and with the right settings, which in turn is said to give stable quality with less material wastage and second quality. The 210” machine has a smaller footprint and uses less floor space than a 268” machine and lowers the air conditioning requirements, which helps lower the production cost, the manufacturer explains. As a more stable running machine, it also requires less operators to look after the workshop reducing the total operating cost. Furthermore, TongDe Knitting decided to connect the operating platforms of all machines to a closed construction, making it easier to load the high-level creels for all the machines in the whole workshop using a dedicated team of workers. The Lace Machine operator only has to look after the knitting area. 16
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“With the locally made machines, he learned that there are many mechanical problems with these machines which occurred frequently and totally at random. There were many defects on the fabric produced on the locally made machines, the root causes of which were not always possible to eliminate making it difficult to improve the fabric quality to the required level,” the company explains. “The downtime for changing pattern is also significantly longer on the locally made machines with increased fabric losses due to problems with getting the patterns to run right, this is different to the experience with Karl Mayer machine where pattern changes can be done quickly and efficiently enabling them to produce good quality fabric after the pattern change.”
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Industrial yarns still in demand Last year, the Remscheid-based systems manufacturer Oerlikon Barmag secured an above-average number of industrial yarns projects. The general trend was once again confirmed within the context of the ITMA Asia + CITME in October 2016. This shows the sustainable success of the comprehensive range of innovative process solutions offered for the entire industrial yarns product program. With its global network, Oerlikon Barmag is positioning itself as a leading partner and a solutions provider of efficient ‘from-melt-toyarn’ production processes. The new systems that will be commissioned over this year are primarily focused on the Asian region; however, manufacturing industrial yarns is also interesting for producers in Europe due to the comparably high margins and specialized areas of application. “We are experiencing huge demand for industrial yarn systems. Customers are asking for products that offer an interesting margin, such as specialties and industrial yarns, for example”, comments Oliver Lemke, Regional Sales Director at Oerlikon Barmag. Stefan Becker, Senior Expert Research and Development, adds:
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“What has, for example, been very well received by our customers is that our current machine concepts for industrial fine-titer nylon yarns allow us to offer configurations that are specifically tailored to the product requirements of the end application of these yarns, such as tents, tarpaulins, parachutes, etc. Here, the focus of the machine design is both on the product quality of the yarns in typical titer ranges of between 20 and 70 den and on production efficiency and, above all, on the optimization of the conversion costs.” The vast majority of the additional output of polyester and polyamide yarns will be deployed in the automotive sector (airbags, safety belts, tire cord). A further application area focuses on the broad spectrum of geotextiles and products for textile construction. And the continuing trend towards polyester yarns as a substitute for polyamide – prevalent among many product categories such as airbags, for example – is being confirmed by our projects.
This is above all due to the constantly improving properties of polyester with simultaneously considerably lower raw material costs. Despite all this, the market for industrial yarns continues to diversify and develop very much in line with the specific end applications. Here, the rising demand for so-called high-performance tires is resulting in both increased demand for PET HMLS yarns and in the greater output of PA66 yarns for use in cap ply. Oerlikon Barmag offers flexible and product quality-oriented machine concepts that efficiently cover these requirements with excellent conversion costs for all product categories. To this end, systems for manufacturing yarns for PET and PA airbags, tires and safety belts are successfully operating in the automotive sector, while there are also systems being used for textile applications such as upholstery and carpets. With this, the yarn production for all automotive sector applications can be covered by Oerlikon Barmag solutions.
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2017 Nanjing Wool Market Conference
Nanjing Wool Market hosted the 29th NWM Conference in Inspirock Hotel in Tongxiang Zhejiang Province in China on 16 to 18th September. Tongxiang is the home city to Red Sun, a major conference sponsor and one of the largest top making companies. The conference was attended by some 500 international and Chinese delegates.
Nanjing Wool Market Conference is an annual conference and the largest wool conference in the world. It is organised by China Wool Textile Association and Nanjing Wool Market. Main sponsored included AWI/The Woolmark Company, Xinao Textiles, Red Sun, and SDIC. Speakers included Mr Zhou Xiaotian CEO Xinao, Chris Wilcox Chairman of IWTO Market Intelligence Committee, and Julie Davies from AWI.
The presentation from Ms Peng Yanli President of CWTA and Ms Yang Xiaoxiong Chair of Nanjing Wool Market outlined the present situation regarding China’s wool industry and its future plans. The second day of the Conference included open panel discussions on a variety of issues facing the wool industry today. Nanjing Wool Market Conference provides an excellent opportunity for all international delegates to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies wishing to exhibit their products. The Conference is open to delegates from all around the world. In the last few years it has moved from domestic Chinese industry issues to become a fully international conference with presentations and participation from industry leaders worldwide.
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Companies from 13 countries and regions at
Yarn expo
The three-day Yarn Expo Autumn ended on October 13 in Shanghai with its huge display of the latest industry trends from 13 countries and regions. The Yarn Expo has been growing in popularity every year, with the number of exhibitors increasing to around 493 this edition, up from 319 last year and the exhibition space expanding by 115 per cent. The expanded exhibition space allowed suppliers to showcase more of their products to visitors. “Given the reputation of Yarn Expo as the best trade platform in the Asian region, suppliers were keen on joining to meet their potential customers here,” senior general manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Wendy Wen said. Suppliers from 13 countries and regions including Bangladesh, Mainland China, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Korea, Malaysia, Pakistan, Singapore, Switzerland, Thailand, Uzbekistan and Vietnam participated in this year’s autumn edition. Held in one of Asia’s major transport hubs, Yarn Expo gathered leading yarn and fibre suppliers from throughout the region. This year, the India Pavilion was once again a highlight of the fair, bringing around 40 of the leading Indian names to Shanghai. In addition, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) as an international organisation which promotes sustainable cotton production, joined the fair for the first time with five spinners demonstrating their cotton yarn made from eco-friendly cotton. Another show highlight included the returning Birla Planet Pavilion. Birla Group benefited from its participation in the previous Yarn Expo where it succeeded in increasing its brand awareness in China. This edition, they formed the pavilion with 16 companies to present a wide range of products, including Birla Modal and Birla Spunshades. The world’s largest rayon spun yarn producer, PT Elegant Textile Industry also joined as one of their important members.
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Exhibitors from Uzbekistan and Pakistan returned to the fair to cater to the growing demand for their high quality and competitive cotton yarn. Rubberflex Sdn Bhd from Malaysia, the world’s largest manufacturer of advanced latex threads, one of the newcomers, showcased their renowned products with features of heat-resistance, high elasticity and durability. Further, Indonesian companies showed much enthusiasm towards the fair that more of them choose to participate in this week’s Yarn Expo Autumn. In order to stand out from the competition, domestic yarn and fibre suppliers worked hard to upgrade their products, and caught the eyeballs of visitors from around the world. Buyers were able to see latest innovative products from five highlighted display zones including Fancy Yarn Zone, Natural Cotton Yarn Zone, Colourful Chemical Zone, Quality Wool Zone and Green Linen Zone. Amongst the five highlighted zones, the Fancy Yarn Zone, which places an emphasis on innovation, doubled in size and accommodated around 50 companies this year.
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Lycra Yarns A Hit in Middle-Aged Men Involved in Cycling With leading brands including Lycra, Coolmax, Cordura, Stainmaster, and Antron, Invista, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates, polymers and fibres, has announced that Lycra’s technical and scientific yarns such as Coolmax and Lycra Sport have proved to be a hit for Middle-Aged-MenIn-Lycra (MAMIL) and other consumers. Research has found that MAMILs aren’t cycling primarily to relive their youth or prove they can still compete against other men. Instead, their motivations are much more complex, tied to the desire for good mental as well as physical health and fuelled by technology. Lycra means high performance, compression, and freedom of movement – the very properties the modern MAMIL is seeking when cycling on the open road. Mixed with clever and scientific yarns such as Coolmax, Lycra is breathable and keeps one cool in the sportswear. Since its launch nearly 60 years ago, Lycra has evolved into a performance-driven ingredient, providing consumers more in their stretch and desire sport-specific garments designed to help optimise their performance. With the three index focus’ on power, comfort and energy, Lycrasport technology makes it easier than ever for MAMILS’s and consumers alike to take advantage of these specific consumer needs.
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Cotton Yarn Futures Trading Begins in China’s Zhengzhou Cotton yarn futures trading recently began on the Zhengzhou Commodity Exchange (ZCE) in the Henan province of China. This is the first commodity futures contracts launched in China since 2016 and will help investors mitigate price volatility risks by obligating them to buy or sell cotton yarn at a predetermined price at a specific time. China’s securities regulator had in July approved the launch of cotton yarn futures on the ZCE. The profit and cost of textile and apparel companies are directly affected by fluctuations in cotton yarn prices. Cotton yarn futures, cotton futures and purified terephthalic acid (PTA) futures have formed a somewhat complete futures system for textile raw materials, a Chinese news agency quoted ZCE director Chen Huaping as saying. The ZCE has launched 17 types of futures and one variety of options, covering chemical engineering, energy, agriculture and building materials. China has been developing its commodity derivatives market and plans to gradually open it up to foreign investors. In April, the country had launched white sugar options, the second commodity options after soybean meal. Large and frequent fluctuations in cotton yarn prices have had negative impacts on related industries in the last few years, the China Securities Regulatory Commission (CSRC) had said some time back.
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FUNCTIONAL FIBRES AND YARNS FOR IDEAS
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OUR COMPANY A COMPETENT PARTNER FOR THE VALUE CHAIN Over fifty years of experience and expertise as a supplier of branded fibres and filament yarn specialties have made us a valued partner for our customers. •
Our customers and partners benefit from a wide range of products and services, and also from the close links we build with them.
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Trevira stands as a symbol for quality and customised products guaranteed by the safeguards offered by our trademark contracts.
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We are committed to innovation by working on new versions of Trevira products and seeking out new possible applications for materials made from our products.
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Sustainable development constitutes a firm element in our company goals, both in production and in the further processing of our fibres and yarns, right through to the end consumer.
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Innovation, cost awareness, motivation and economic success make Trevira attractive for customers, partners, suppliers, employees, owners and our local environment.
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Our owner is Indorama Ventures PCL from Thailand. The world’s largest polyester manufacturer offers us an international platform in every market and field of application.
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OUR PRODUCTS FIBRES, YARNS, SERVICES – AND A POWERFUL BRAND Our fibres and filament yarns possess outstanding functional properties, fitting the demands of the home textiles, automotive and apparel industries, the hygiene sector and technical applications. •
We offer a comprehensive range of special staple fibre types for ring yarn, woollen yarn, worsted and cotton spinning, as well as for nonwovens. Special properties like flame retardant, antimicrobial, low-pilling or bicomponent suit particular end uses.
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Our offer of filament yarns includes the entire range from flat, textured, spun-dyed through to yarn-dyed products, with special inherent functions like flame retardant or antimicrobial.
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Fibres and yarns made from biopolymer emphasise our commitment to sustainability.
At Trevira, service means working together with our customers and partners throughout the whole value chain: •
We give our customers advice in developing new products and support them in promoting their Trevira products.
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A trademark service monitors the Trevira products of our customers to ensure the tested quality of textiles made from Trevira.
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The Trevira Net grants access to a comprehensive online data base with suppliers of Trevira textiles, including the world’s largest library for flame retardant fabrics.
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FACTS & FIGURES TREVIRA – A EUROPEAN FIBRE MANUFACTURER Founded:
1956, as fibre business of Farbwerke Hoechst AG, market launch of the
Trevira brand. Spin-off in 1998 as Trevira GmbH & Co KG. 1.1.2010 re-established as Trevira GmbH Holding company: Trevira Holdings GmbH Shareholders: Indorama Ventures PCL, Thailand Locations: Bobingen / Germany: Production Guben / Germany: Production Hattersheim / Germany: Management, Marketing & Sales Employees: approx. 1,100 Annual turnover: approx. 230 million euros Sales volumes: 85,000 t/a polyester fibres and filament yarns (polyester, PBT, PLA, bico fibres / hybrid yarns and others) and approx. 20,000 t/a polyester chips Certificates:
DIN EN ISO 9001, DIN EN ISO 14001 and DIN EN ISO 50001, AEO, Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Certificate for Trevira products
© Trevira GmbH 2017 Trevira® is a registered trademark of Trevira GmbH.
Trevira GmbH Marketing & Sales Philipp-Reis-Str. 4 D-65795 Hattersheim trevira.info@trevira.com 33 www.trevira.com
Huntsman wins “Procurement Excellence Award 2017” Huntsman International India Pvt Ltd won the Procurement Excellence Award 2017. Huntsman was awarded this honour in the ‘Best Procurement Transformation’ category at the 5th Procurement Excellence Awards. The award celebrates excellence in best practices across the industry in the field of procurement. Huntsman was awarded the honour in recognition of its outstanding work in procurement transformation in various spectrums of the function. The award is one of the most distinguished titles in the industry and provides an opportunity to honour excellence in procurement through its functionality performance and achievement. Huntsman received the award based on criteria such as innovation, execution and success. The procurement transformation in Huntsman lead by Nilesh Jha – Sr. Director Purchasing, India Subcontinent, Australia, New Zealand, said “This award is result of drive and persistence, a recognition of our affirmation and efforts towards innovation and team effort. It is a pleasure to share this memorable moment with India purchasing team and all the Huntsman associates. We are humbled that our transformation project was appreciated by the eminent juries. This is the first year Huntsman has been presented with the award and look forward for many more accolades. We will continue our journey towards excellence and this is a motivation for the team to continue to excel further to be part of the Huntsman growth story”. The annual awards program, conceived and managed by Kamikaze B2B Media, took place in Mumbai, and had an active participation from an expansive spectrum of the industry. Best of the corporates across different industries participated in the event. The selection process was based on case studies evaluation highlighting the ethos of outperformance. Each nomination was evaluated by a jury on four parameters – innovation, uniqueness, execution, and success.
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The 48th Edition of Filo: Brilliant Results The 48th Filo edition, the international yarns and fibres’ exhibition, closed in a positive atmosphere, registering a growing number of visitors: + 9% compared to the corresponding edition in 2016. Paolo Monfermoso, manager of Filo, commented: “The 48th edition of Filo has closed in a very positive atmosphere. The increase of exhibitors – more than 90 at this edition – went hand in hand with buyers’ flow, higher than expected. Therefore, the results confirmed the interest for a fair proposing yarns’ excellence based on a B2B model and endorsing concreteness, professionalism and efficiency”. Mr. Monfermoso added “In response to needs expressed both by exhibiting and visiting companies, in this edition we opened the doors to a selected group of dyeing mills and service firms for textile industry. We did it in accordance to the concept of supply chain, in order to offer to the professionals a wider vision of the production chain. The same goal we pursue through the strengthening of synergy between Filo and Milano Unica starting from the next edition”. “As to internationalisation of Filo – Mr Monfermoso concluded – the cooperation with ITA-Agency continues with satisfaction of all. Thanks to that cooperation, during the 48th edition, we have been able to host a delegation of foreign buyers coming from Japan, Great Britain, Spain, France, Belgium, Turkey, Portugal and Russia.” The 49th edition of Filo is scheduled for February 21-22, 2018 at Palazzo delle Stelline in Milan.
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A KNITTER’S WEEKEND: BERGEN, NORWAY By Dianna Walla
Yarn
Bergen is the gateway to the Norway’s coastal fjords.
Husfliden is my favorite spot in Bergen for yarn, as it’s the retail branch of the Norwegian Folk Art and Craft Association (and the store contains much more than just yarn).
Easy to reach from Oslo by plane or train, it’s the jumping-off point for many visitors to Norway who want to see the beautiful coastline. It also happens to be a sister city of one of the places I’ve called home: Seattle. (Seattleites may find the weather familiar— Bergen is notoriously rainy, but when the sun comes out, it’s absolutely magic in that hearts-in-your-eyes Disneyland kind of way.) Whether Bergen is your destination or just a stop along the way for your trip, this city has a lot to offer. So grab a cup of strong coffee, put on some Kings of Convenience, and kick back asI take you on a virtual stroll through the cobbled streets.
I’d suggest heading for the shop on Vågsallemenning which is a proper Husfliden store, rather than the one located at Bryggen, the famous wharf. While the Bryggen shop does have some handknit sweaters for sale, it’s much more like a tourist shop full of trinkets of ugly troll figurines and glittery keychains). Husfliden on Vågsallemenning has two floors, with yarn both downstairs and upstairs.
Being part of the Norwegian Folk Art and Craft Association, they specialize in Norwegian brands.Modellstrikk is a beautiful little shop that’s fairly centrally located. They also primarily carry Norwegian brands, but a few foreign brands can be found here as well. The samples in the shop are always lovely and provide a nice cross section of both simple knits with a modern aesthetic alongside more traditional pieces, both of which are popular in Norway today.
Museums While it’s technically not within Bergen itself, the first museum I mention must absolutely be the Norwegian Knitting Industry Museum in Salhus. It’s a short drive from the city center, and also accessible by bus for those traveling without a car. This museum began its life as a wool factory in 1859 and was turned into a museum in 2001—and it is once again a working factory. In its heyday, not only was wool prepared and spun into yarn here, but knitted fabric was also made by machine and finished pieces were cut and sewn together, all under one roof—most unusual. Make sure to get there in time for the guided tour and stay afterwards for waffles or cake in the café space, which is bright and airy with a view of the water. You can also take home some souvenir yarn, spun by Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk and then plied at the museum, or one of the Salhus sweaters made there. Also worth a visit while in Bergen is the sprawling complex of art museums, KODE. 38
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Pakistan’s APTMA Feels Rebate Essential on Yarn Exports
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has opposed the suggestion to stop the 4 per cent government rebate on yarn exports on the basis of drawback of duties, local taxes and levies on exports. Export of yarn needs patronage, else it may lead to closure of mills on a large scale and unemployment, senior APTMA vice chairman Zahid Mazhar said. High business cost has made the spinning sector, the backbone of the textile value chain, unviable and it is incurring heavy losses now by selling yarn below its cost due to poor demand from domestic consumers. The production of yarn is substantially more than the local consumption, Mazhar said in a press release. Only 13.28 per cent of the total yarn produced in 2016-17 and 12.44 per cent of the total yarn produced in 2015-16 were exported, according to data from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. As the domestic industry consumes around 70 per cent of the total yarn production, a substantial amount is left unsold, and needs to be exported, he added.
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Turkey’s Annual textile, apparel exports nearing $30B Turkey’s textile and apparel exports are approaching $30 billion annually, while $7.5 billion of this amount comes from Merter, a district in Istanbul known for its ready-to-wear textiles. Merter Industrialists’ and Businessmen’s Association (MESIAD) Chairman Yusuf Gecü announced the latest statistics yesterday, adding that the district exports textile and apparel products to 215 countries around the world. Gecü noted that all medium and large textile and apparel manufacturers in Turkey have a store or showroom in Merter. He said that there are 10,000 stores in the region and that the number of people directly employed in these stores has reached 100,000. The chairman stressed that it is important to reach this employment figure in a region where only the promotion and sales of a labor-intensive sector, such as textile, are conducted. He also stated that the number of employees in the production of these brands is much higher and that 80 percent of the textiles and apparel manufacturers in Merter produce outside the region. Meanwhile, he pointed out that Merter welcomes 3,000 importers every day from 60 countries in the Middle East, Africa, the Turkic Republics, the Far East and especially from the U.S., Russia, Europe and Gulf countries. “We are the first to come to mind in terms of textile. Turkey is already the shining star of the world in the textile and apparel sector. No matter where in Turkey, our producers are selling from here,” he said. Merter’s exports amount to 25 percent of annual textile and apparel exports in the country. He said that Turkey’s 2023 goal is to exceed $50 billion in exports, adding that they aim to make up $15 billion of this figure in Merter alone. Gecü said that Turkey’s average export value per kilogram is around $1.7 and that this figure reached $15 in apparel and $5 in textile. He pointed out that they continue to work on further increasing these figures. He explained that Turkish goods are perceived abroad as cheaper than Europe and much better quality than China. He said this perception was placed in the minds of consumers particularly in Russia, Turkic Republics, African, European, Middle Eastern and Gulf countries. “We will combine quality product with design and deepen markets,” Gecü said. Gecü noted that the Turkish textile industry, which closely follows all the fairs in the world and participates in the events, closely monitors fashion and that this is how they can easily bring the latest trends to consumers. He emphasized that Turkey is among the few countries in the world in terms of producing quality denim jeans and knitted products. To conclude, Gencü said that Turkish producers are also working their way to becoming top brands themselves.
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MoU signed for yarn supply to weavers on 45 days’ credit State industries department on Tuesday signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with National Handloom Development Corporation(NHDC) to provide yarn on credit to weavers for 45 days. Bihar, in fact, became the first state in the country to sign such an agreement with NHDC and the state industries department has created a corpus of Rs1 crore for this scheme. Another corpus of Rs2 crore has been created for advance payment to weavers affiliated to Bihar State Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative Union Limited, which supplies ‘satrangi chadar (rainbow bedsheets) to state health department for using in government hospitals. A cheque for Rs50 lakh from the second corpus was handed over to the weavers’ cooperative on Tuesday. Besides, an aid to the tune of Rs1.25 crore was released to Bihar State Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative Union Limited (BSHWCUL) for providing 68-inch looms to weavers for weaving bigger cloth pieces like double bedsheets and curtains among others. Industries department has allocated Rs1.35 crore for this scheme.
Enumerating the schemes, state industries minister Jai Kumar Singh said: “Handloom industry employs the highest number of people in Bihar after agriculture sector. It is the first time in the country that weavers in a state will be provided raw material on credit along with subsidy and free transport cost. In fact, the yarn supply scheme was conceptualized by our industries department. Besides, the advance payment scheme for weavers under satrangi chadar scheme will ensure financial stability for weavers.” Deliberating on the yarn supply scheme, principal secretary (industries) S Siddhartha said: “Primary weavers’ societies will place orders for yarn through NHDC’s e-Dhaga mobile application upon payment of only 10% of the total amount, following which the yarn will be delivered within 15 days without transportation charge. Thereafter, the weavers will be required to repay the credit within 45 days, which will entitle them for a subsidy of 10%.” Sources said 952 primary weavers’ societies are affiliated with the BSHWCUL comprising over 56,000 weavers across the state. The state government on November 6 last year had made the weavers’ cooperative the nodal agency for supplying the satrangi chadars. It supplied 2,52,654 such bedsheets till March this year for use in state government hospitals.
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DOMOTEX 2018 to open with an array of new highlights and features DOMOTEX 2018 doesn’t open for another three months, but it’s already becoming clear that the 30th edition of the world’s leading tradeshow for carpets and floor coverings will be a very strong and innovative affair, sporting an extensive lineup of new features. For one thing, the show has a new hall configuration and venue layout that will make it a lot easier for visitors to survey the market and connect with the exhibitors and trends that matter to them. The show will also have a strong overarching focus on the megatrend of product individualization, as reflected in the keynote theme of “ UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE “. This theme will find concentrated expression in Hall 9, which will house an inspiring wonderland of creatively staged display zones by exhibitors, artists and budding young designers. “The upcoming show will immerse its visitors in a totally new and captivating world of trends, innovations and lifestyle,” commented Dr. Andreas Gruchow as the responsible Managing Board member at Deutsche Messe. “Exhibitors and visitors alike can look forward to a wealth of concrete ideas that will help them grow their business and keep up with the trends and innovations that are shaping the future of their industry,” he added.
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Exhibitor registrations trending much higher than expected The enhanced DOMOTEX format has been well received by the carpet and floor coverings industry – as can be seen from the high level of exhibitor registrations. “We are well up on the number of exhibitors confirmed at the same time in the build-up to DOMOTEX 2017. We’re also significantly above expectation on booked display space,” Klaproth said. “This further underscores DOMOTEX’s importance as a global marketplace and setter of trends for the carpet and floor coverings industry. At this rate, we are on track for around 1,400 exhibitors from over 60 nations,” she added. Apart from Germany, the show’s biggest exhibiting nations in terms of display space are Turkey, India, Belgium, China, the Netherlands, Iran, Italy, Egypt and the USA. New hall configuration boosts market transparency The revamped hall configuration physically clusters allied product groups, making it much easier for visitors from all professional backgrounds – whether wholesale or retail, architecture, interior design, the skilled trades, or furniture or furnishing retail – to find their way around and survey the market.
Getting down to specifics, halls 2 to 4 now house the biggest offering of hand-made carpets and rugs seen anywhere in the world. Halls 5 through 7 are home to a unique selection of machine-woven carpets and rugs. Hall 8 is the gateway to the latest carpet creations from the world’s most innovative designers and labels. The displays of resilient floor coverings and luxury vinyl tiles are concentrated in halls 11 and 12. And halls 12 and 13 house the show’s displays of parquet, wood and laminate flooring. Hall 13 also houses displays of the latest flooring application and installation products and solutions. The convenience factor will be further enhanced by the venue’s excellent integration into the local public transport system and by the new MY DOMOTEX shuttle service, which will transport visitors and exhibitors quickly and directly to wherever they want to go on the exhibition grounds. “UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE” – wall-to-wall individualization With its keynote theme of “ UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE “, DOMOTEX 2018 is focusing on the individualization megatrend and its effects on the flooring industry. In today’s globalized and digitized world, consumers are increasingly looking for ways to express their individuality. Consequently, the products and services they use to shape their lives – including their home lives – are becoming more and personalized and tailored to their needs and preferences. “DOMOTEX is picking up on this trend, because if other products can be tailored to lifestyle preferences, then the same should also be true of floor coverings,” explained Gruchow.
Immersive showcase of creative ideas Hall 9 is the new jewel in the crown of DOMOTEX. It is the home of the “Framing Trends” display area, a richly diverse and immersive showcase in which established companies, industry newcomers and artists will engage with the keynote theme in an array of creatively staged displays. “Framing Trends” comprises four distinct zones, where visitors will be able to experience and interact with all kinds of outof-the-box ideas and designs. In the “Flooring Spaces” zone, companies from the floor coverings industry will stage extraordinary product showcases that play with and reflect on the individualization trend. Next-door, exhibitors will partner with interior designers to craft inspiring spaces and lifestyle realms in the “Living Spaces” zone. Then there’s the “NuThinkers” zone, where students and young designers will redefine interior design with a dazzling array of unconventional ideas and product prototypes. And finally, the “Art & Interaction” zone will present the keynote theme of “UNIQUE UNIVERSE” in a sensory feast of exhibits from the worlds of art and design, paired with interactive multimedia displays. To ensure that “Framing Trends” delivers a consistently high-quality visitor experience, the organizers have appointed a panel of experts under the leadership of Peter Ippolito, of Büro Ippolito Fleitz Group (Stuttgart, Germany), who will determine which of the ideas and designs submitted are worthy of going on display. As its name suggests, the “NuThinkers” zone is for alternative thinkers who can envisage a world beyond the main stream. The exciting new ideas on display there will include a new kind of floor heating system inspired by reptilian thermoregulation, a self-driving robotic painter that can create personalized floors, and a virtual reality software that uses body movement to create individualized spaces in real-time. When it comes to exploring the keynote theme, the sky is – literally – the limit in the “Art & Interaction” zone. “Meanwhile in the Universe”, for instance, is an installation in which visitors can open a window to catch their own little glimpse of infinity – in the form of a live feed of outer space from NASA. 43
The “Endless Uniqueness” installation offers a similarly interactive perspective on the keynote theme. For this, 50 creatives, including Germany’s ten best interior designers, were each asked build their own personal interpretation of the “UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE” keynote theme in the form of their favorite items and flooring staged inside an open mirror box. The boxes are arrayed opposite a giant mirror kaleidoscope that reflects the boxes and the visitors walking among them. As they walk through this mirror installation, visitors can change and rearrange the materials in the boxes, thereby creating their own unique design universe. Captivating supporting program in Hall 9 To add to the inspiration on offer, the upcoming show will feature a captivating program of speaking events – the DOMOTEX Talks – inspired by the “UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE” keynote theme. Among those to speak are renowned architects such as Jürgen Mayer H. (J.MAYER.H und Partner, Architekten MbB, Berlin), Andreas Krawczyk (NKBAK, Frankfurt/Main), Chris Middleton (KINZO, Berlin), Werner Aisslinger (Studio Aisslinger, Berlin) and a number of founders of amazing startups and trailblazing next-generation designers. Held on the “Framing Trends” stage in Hall 9, each day’s Talks will comprise three speed presentations followed by a moderated discussion panel. The Talks will explore a range of highly topical and innovative projects and ideas from architecture and design. They will be grouped into three main theme areas: “Modular design: individual versus mass-produced?”, “New one-off originals: handmade versus digital?” and “Retail interactive: virtual versus real?” The Talks are aimed primarily at architects, interior and product designers, but are also of interest to forward-thinking exhibitors and visitors. There will also be daily Guided Tours of the show, led by big-name architects and designers. For visitors, the tours are a great way to gain deeper insights into the keynote theme and the products on display and, of course, to make contact with key exhibitors. In the center of the “Framing Trends” area, visitors and exhibitors will find
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lounge-style meeting areas and a café – the ideal settings for relaxed, informal dialogue. The Carpet Design Awards are another Hall 9 highlight. The internationally coveted award honors the world’s best new designer carpets in eight categories. The 24 carpets shortlisted for the award will be on display in Hall 9 for the duration of DOMOTEX. Hall 9 will also have a key focus on the exciting promise of virtual reality as an interior design tool. Virtual reality is set to transform the way we shop for floor coverings and furnishings and how we connect with one another and perceive the world. On the subject of virtual reality, it is worth noting that DOMOTEX’s organizer, Deutsche Messe, has developed the “ hackvention event series “ – a new international series of events in which, among much else, companies from the skilled trades, commerce and industry can use virtual and augmented reality to develop concepts and prototypes for individualized products. The series runs in August and November 2017, and a number of DOMOTEX exhibitors are taking part. The fruits of their foray into VR and AR will be on show at DOMOTEX 2018. Change to show days Starting in 2018, DOMOTEX is moving from its traditional Saturday-to-Tuesday format to a new Friday-to-Monday format. This means DOMOTEX 2018 will open on Friday 12 January and remain open until Monday 15 January. The change comes in response to calls from many exhibitors to switch the official DOMOTEX opening day to Friday.
ITM 2018 - International Textile Machinery Exhibition Originally starting to develop based on the cultivation of cotton in Turkey, over the years the Turkish textile sector has become an export industry. The export of Turkish yarn and fiber products has increased in recent years with investments made in the industry. Turkey is among the most important producers of cotton in the world and is also a country of authority when it comes to yarn manufacturing and processing. The yarn industry continues to increase the value of its exports with value-added products such as customized, high-performance products and eco-friendly yarns. The 15th International Istanbul Yarn Fair opens its doors between April 14-17, 2018 at the Tßyap Fair Convention and Congress Center where it will bring the yarn and fiber industries together. Participants who wish to export their goods to Europe and many other countries in the world and showcase their innovations will establish new partnerships and strengthen the image of their brand over 4 days. Visitors to the Fair will have the opportunity to view cotton yarn, combed cotton yarn, polyester yarn, acrylic yarns, woolen yarn, fibers and many other kinds of yarn coming from different parts of the world and meet the suppliers. One Date, One Venue, Two Exhibitions To be held with the participation of the world’s leading manufacturers of textile machinery, ITM 2018 -International Textile Machinery Exhibition will take place on the same dates as the International Istanbul Yarn Fair between April 14-17, 2018 to bring the textile industry to your doorstep as two exhibitions with scopes that are directly related to one another.
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PREMIÈRE VISION Announces The Launch of It’s New Marketplace in 2018 The world leader in trade fairs for the upstream side of the creative fashion industry, Première Vision continues to further its development, and announces the launch of its marketplace in 2018. In an ever more connected and technological world, Première Vision is already positioning itself to meet future market developments. Marketplaces have conquered the B to C markets by integrating e-commerce sites. This technology offers new business opportunities to professional markets as well. Drawing on its long-standing relationship with the fashion industry, Première Vision’s marketplace aims to accompany the profound changes in an industry seeking accelerated product renewal, and a shorter time-tomarket. THE PREMIÈRE VISION MARKETPLACE: AN INNOVATIVE AND TECHNOLOGICAL POSITIONING The Première Vision marketplace will be simultaneously: - A B-to-B e-commerce site: which will present a selective catalogue of products from the exhibitors’ collections. 46
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These product offers may be made private, and permission to consult them managed by the exhibitors themselves. For buyers, access to the marketplace will be free of charge, and require authentication. Initially, the site will be exclusively reserved for sampling requests, similar to the transactions that take place at the shows, but which in this case will extend beyond the actual events themselves. - An editorial platform based on seasonal fashion trends and product trend information produced by the Group’s in-house team. - A service provider for the fashion industry to facilitate connections between exhibitors and buyers. - A project of a highly technological nature: to take advantage of the best solutions on the market, this new platform will use MIRAKL technologies, the leading French publisher of marketplaces. A STRATEGIC INITIATIVE TO CONNECT PLAYERS IN THE CREATIVE FASHION SECTOR As a true strategic project for the Première Vision Group, the marketplace will make it possible to: - support the business development of its exhibitors in international markets, as products put on line will be immediately available worldwide - connect industry players 365 days a year, beyond the show periods - adapt to the new accelerated pace of more diversified collections – accompany evolutions in the fashion sector and the arrival of new generations of buyers and designers who expect connected tools.
CREATION OF A NEW COMPANY: PREMIÈRE VISION DIGITAL A wholly-owned subsidiary of the Première Vision Group, Première Vision Digital was created in order to operate this new initiative, and plans to put together a team of about 15 people in the medium term. With a strong background in e-commerce, business development and creating and managing a marketplace, which she acquired in senior management positions at Price Minister and Rue du Commerce, Gaël Séguillon has been named head of the Première Vision Digital company THE GOAL OF THE MARKETPLACE: 1,500 EVENTUAL COMPANIES AND 70,000 PRODUITS ON-LINE In the medium term, Première Vision’s ambition is to bring together within its marketplace: - 1,500 companies on the platform - 70,000 products: fabrics, leathers, accessories, denim, yarns, etc. with a rapid renewal of the offer - A database of 250,000 potential buyers - News, content and analysis produced on a regular basis. From the fifteen Lyonnais weavers in the early seventies to the more than 1,950 exhibitors at Première Vision Paris today, the strategy of the Première Vision group has remained the same: to support the development of the international fashion industry and the market’s major evolutions through its services and 22 events per year, to which is added today a unique digital tool. The Première Vision marketplace will be launched in the second half of 2018. 47
Walmart becomes part of Cotton Leads programme Walmart has become part of the Cotton Leads programme, supporting responsible production practices by cotton growers. Walmart joins more than 480 companies worldwide which recognise the environmental gains cotton growers in Australia and the US are achieving and their commitment to meet the challenge of growing cotton through sustainable practices. “Cotton is a major ingredient in many of our apparel and home textile products,” explains Ken Lanshe, Walmart’s vice president, General Merchandise, Technical, Quality and Sustainability. “Through the Cotton Leads programme, Walmart hopes to learn from and collaborate on efforts that US cotton farmers are taking to be responsible and sustainable producers. Our support for the Cotton Leads programme aligns with Walmart’s goal to sell products that sustain the environment.” Walmart joins more than 480 companies worldwide which recognise both the environmental gains cotton growers in Australia and the United States continue to achieve and their commitment to meeting the challenge of growing sustainable cotton. “The Cotton Leads programme is at the forefront of the world’s efforts for sustainably-sourced cotton,” says Mark Messura, senior vice president Global Supply Chain Marketing at Cotton Incorporated, a founding member organisation of the Cotton Leads programme. “Joining with Walmart in the Cotton Leads programme brings the scale and commitment of an industry leader together with the leaders in cotton sustainability and responsibly-sourced cotton.” Dr. Jesse Daystar, chief sustainability officer at Cotton Incorporated, notes, “Our leading efforts in the US and Australia are rooted in science, measurement and best practices. Companies that join the Cotton Leads programme are aligning themselves with an objective and valid approach to the sustainability challenge.” Cotton Australia CEO Adam Kay states, “Whether it’s greenhouse gas emissions or soil health, cotton farmers are always looking to implement best practices and technologies so that we can continue to be careful stewards of the natural resources.”
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Lenzing Group with substantial earnings increase in the first nine months of 2017 Revenue up 9.4 percent to EUR 1,726.6 mn EBITDA improvement of 23.9 percent to EUR 397.1 mn Retail bond of EUR 120 mn redeemed – Lenzing with net liquidity as at end of September State-of-the-art application innovation center opened in Hong Kong Lenzing – The Lenzing Group generated a substantial increase in revenue and earnings in the first nine months of the 2017 financial year compared to the prior-year period. The company is continuing the implementation of its Group strategy sCore TEN in order to further expand the offering of specialty fibers and be even closer to its customers and business partners. Consolidated revenue climbed 9.4 percent year-onyear to EUR 1,726.6 mn. This increase is mainly attributable to higher prices for all three fiber generations. Consolidated earnings before tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) rose 23.9 percent to EUR 397.1 mn, corresponding to an EBITDA margin of 23 percent, up from 20.3 percent in the prior-year period. Earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) increased by 34.6 percent to EUR 298.4 mn, resulting in a higher EBIT margin of 17.3 percent (Q1-3 2016: 14 percent). The profit for the period improved by 35.3 percent to EUR 219.3 mn, and earnings per share rose 36 percent to EUR 8.12 per share. In September Lenzing redeemed the retail bond of EUR 120 mn. 50
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At the end of the reporting period the Group had net liquidity of EUR 16.9 mn. “In the first three quarters of 2017, we successfully captured value in a very positive market environment and we continue to implement the sCore TEN strategy with great discipline. The opening of our new application innovation center in Hong Kong is an important step to boost our regional innovation capabilities. We were particularly proud to launch TENCEL™ Luxe as a sign of Lenzing’s ongoing commitment to innovation and sustainability”, states Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “After three excellent quarters we are confident to deliver substantially better operating results in 2017 compared to 2016, but at the same time we do expect more headwinds in 2018.”
Focus on customer intimacy In September 2017, the Lenzing Group opened a new application innovation center (AIC) in Hong Kong, thus setting a further milestone in strengthening its innovation offering to all partners along the value chain. New applications for Lenzing™ fibers will be developed and tested at the new facility, among them applications for recent innovations such as the TENCEL™ Luxe branded lyocell filament, the Refibra™ branded lyocell fiber and the EcoVero™ branded viscose fiber.
Furthermore, new sales and marketing offices were opened in Turkey and South Korea in the first half of 2017. The direct contact to customers and well-equipped showrooms featuring products made of Lenzing™ fibers serve as the basis for providing even better customer support.
The Group initiated its transformation from a volume-oriented viscose player to a valueoriented specialty fiber player at the end of 2015, and will continue the disciplined implementation of its business strategy.
Investment program in progress The Lenzing Group aims to increase the share of specialty fibers as a percentage of revenue to 50 percent by 2020. Following the capacity expansion initiatives in Heiligenkreuz (Austria) and Mobile, Alabama (USA) which are both underway, Lenzing announced its intention to construct the next plant to produce TENCEL® fibers in Thailand.
A new era of sustainable production In October 2017, the Lenzing Group presented a new product, TENCEL™ Luxe, at an exclusive event held in Paris. The TENCEL™ Luxe branded filament yarn represents Lenzing’s entry in the filament market. This fiber will support the Lenzing Group’s path towards becoming a true specialty player in the market for botanic materials derived from the sustainable raw material wood. The launch volumes of TENCEL™ Luxe are being produced at the Lenzing site. The basic engineering for a commercial scale plant was commenced.
Outlook Demand development on the global fiber market remains positive within the context of a generally friendly macroeconomic environment. Lenzing expects wood-based cellulose fibers to grow at an even higher rate than the overall fiber market. After three excellent quarters, the Lenzing Group will achieve an operating result in 2017 that is significantly better than 2016. For 2018, Lenzing sees a number of somewhat opposing factors that limit visibility regarding fiber price developments. Overall market demand is expected to remain high. However, the Group expects a substantial increase on the supply side, especially for viscose but also for cotton. Price trends for selected key raw materials, especially caustic soda, are difficult to predict. Against this background the Lenzing Group expects a much more challenging market environment for standard viscose during the upcoming quarters. The above-mentioned development reassures the Lenzing Group in its chosen corporate strategy sCore TEN.
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China Launches Cotton Yarn Futures Cotton yarn futures, the first commodity futures contracts launched in China since 2016, have entered trading on the Zhengzhou Commodity Exchange (ZCE) in central China’s Henan Province. Fluctuations in cotton yarn prices have a direct impact on the profit and cost of upstream and downstream firms in the textile industry, which is a pillar industry of the national economy. The new futures contract will help investors mitigate risks of price volatility by obligating them to buy or sell cotton yarn at a predetermined price at a specific time. Cotton yarn futures, as well as cotton futures and PTA futures, have formed a relatively complete futures system for textile raw materials, demonstrating a step forward for ZCE to build a global textile products futures trading and pricing center, said Chen Huaping, director of the ZCE.
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Egypt aims to double its high-quality cotton production and export Egypt aims to double production of its most famous export, the silky soft cotton once known as “white gold”, after a period of slumping output, an Agriculture Ministry spokesman said. Hamed Abdel-Dayem told Reuters production should rise to 1.4 million qintar (160 kg) in the 2017-18 fiscal year that started in July from 700,000 qintar a year earlier. All the cotton will be exported. The government aims to increase the price of the long staple cotton to more than 3000 Egyptian pounds ($168.07) per qintar, which will all be exported, the spokesman said. Production of the cotton, used in luxury bedding, has fallen sharply since 2011, a year of political upheaval that coincided with looser regulations that degraded the quality of local cotton.
This year Egypt grew about 220,000 acres (89,000 hectares) of long-staple cotton compared with 130,000 acres (52,600 hectares) in 20162107, Abdel-Dayem said. Farmers, spinners, and exporters say the weakness of the Egyptian pound following its flotation in November and a scandal over the alleged sale of falsely labelled Egyptian cotton have increased demand for the real thing, injecting life into a historic industry on its deathbed. ($1 = 17.8500 Egyptian pounds) (Writing by Amina Ismail; Editing by Stephen Powell)
Egypt’s sunny skies and superior seed help it grow a cotton known for unusually long fibres that produce a light durable fabric with an attractive sheen and soft touch. Long-staple sells at 155 U.S. cents per lb, about twice the price of common short-staple cotton. Its return to world markets could provide a lucrative export opportunity at a time when Egypt has a huge trade deficit and is seeking to relaunch its stagnant economy. In 2016 Egypt banned all but the highest quality cotton seed, dramatically shrinking the area under cultivation but restoring quality, in a bid to save its historic crop.
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Aquafil wins award at the UK-Italy Business Awards in Milan. On November 23, at Palazzo Mezzanotte in Milan, the Department for International Trade (DIT), in partnership with Borsa Italiana / London Stock Exchange Elite, awarded some Italian companies who have chosen the United Kingdom to develop their business strategy and who have opted for investments on the other side of the Channel. During the eleventh edition of the UK-Italy Business Awards, the attendants at the ceremony were: Jill Morris, Ambassador of S.M. British in Italy; Andrea Sironi, President of Borsa Italiana S.p.A.; Luca Peyrano, CEO Elite; and Andrea Coscelli, CEO of Competition and Markets Authority UK. Aquafil was rewarded for its important investments made in optimizing the production processes of its Scottish Kilbernie plant, acquired from W & J Knox in 2014, which now accounts for 10% of Aquafil’s European turnover. The Award was delivered to Aquafil’s CEO by Jill Morris (in the picture). Aquafil’s CEO Giulio Bonazzi also spoke during the Panel Discussion entitled “ELITE, a Platform for International Growth”. Elite, which Aquafil has been part of for 3 years, was created by Borsa Italiana and is a platform that unites businesses, investors and advisor around a common goal: to grow.
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PERFORMANCE YARN
RADIFLOOR® PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
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PRODUCT RANGE Radioor® Automotive is a polyamide 6 Solution Dyed BCF yarn, sold to carpet makers in the automotive world, i.e. yarn for oor and trunk liners mats. Finishes: Twist, Heat Set and Frisée.
Radioor® Contract is a BCF yarn, mainly made in Polyamide 6.6, but also in polyamide 6 Raw, and it is suitable for hotel, institutional sector and cruise ships. Finishes: Air Set (max 4 ply), Twist x2, x3, x2x2, Heat Set Superba, Superba Frisée.
Radioor® Residential, polyamide 6 and polyamyde 6.6 BCF yarns, are used in the manufacture of household carpets and rugs in vaste range of combinations and nishings. Finishes: Air Entangled, Twist, Heat Set, Frisée.
Radioor® Solid, the Solution Dyed PA6 yarns for contract applications, are available in different counts and can be used in cut-pile and loop-pile constructions with characteristics of excellent colour fastness and low soil adhesion properties. Finishes: Air Entangled, Twist, Heat Suessen, Twist Heat Superba, Superba Frisée.
Radioor® Space, mainly polyamide 6 BCF yarn, is used in the manufacture of household carpet and rugs in vaste range of combinations and nishings. Finishes: Air Set, Twist x2, x3, Twist Heat Set, HS Frisée.
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S OLID CONTRACT
A UTO M O TIV E
PA6 SOLUTION DYED Nominal count and lament
Dpf
Dye afnity
PA6
1020f128
7.8
solution dyed
PA6
1300f68
19.1
solution dyed
PA6
1300f84
15.5
solution dyed
PA6
1300f128
10.2
solution dyed
PA6
1450f68
21.3
solution dyed
Nominal count and lament
Dpf
Dye afnity
PA6
700f30
23.3
solution dyed
PA6
1000f40
25.0
solution dyed
PA6
1300f68
19.1
solution dyed
PA6
1400f48
29.2
solution dyed
PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
58
YARNS
PA6 RAW WHITE Luster Nominal count Dpf and lament
R ES IDENTI A L
PA6
900f100
9.0
Dye afnity
Bright
Semi Semi Dull Bright Dull
regular deep basic
PA6
1000f68
14.7
regular
PA6
1050f128
7.8
regular
PA6
1300f128
10.2
regular
PA6
1330f68
19.6
regular
PA6
950f48
19.8
regular
CONT R A CT RESIDENT IA L
deep basic PA6
1150f48
24.0
regular
PA6
1150f66
17.4
regular
PA6
1250f68
18.4
regular deep basic
Deep Bright = Deep
Deep Semi Dull = Ultra Deep
Deep Dull = Light Ultra Deep
Bright Basic = Basic
Basic Semi Dull = Cationic
Basic Dull = Light Cationic
PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
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PA6.6 RAW WHITE Luster
SOFT
Nominal count Dpf and lament
Dye afnity
PA6.6
700f128
5.5
regular
PA6.6
850f256
3.3
regular
PA6.6
1100f256
4.3
regular
PA6.6
1400f256
5.5
regular
PA6.6
1000f68
14.7
regular
Bright Semi Dull Dull
C ON TRA C TT CON T R AC RERSIDE L E S I D ENNTIA T I AL
deep basic PA6.6
1000f84
11.9
regular deep basic
PA6.6
1350f68
19.9
regular deep
CONT RA C T
basic PA6.6
YARNS
20.4
regular deep basic
PA6.6
1300f48
27.1
regular
Deep Bright = Deep
Deep Semi Dull = Ultra Deep
Deep Dull = Light Ultra Deep
Bright Basic = Basic
Basic Semi Dull = Cationic
Basic Dull = Light Cationic
PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
60
1000f49
SPACE DYED Luster
UPHOLSTE RY
Nominal count Dpf and lament
Dye afnity
PA6
1000f68
14.7
Space Dyed
PA6
1150f48
24.0
Space Dyed
PA6
1150f66
17.4
Space Dyed
PA6
1300f48
27.1
Space Dyed
PA6
1300f68
19.1
Space Dyed
PA6
1300f128
10.2
Space Dyed
PA6.6
1400f256
5.5
Space Dyed
PA6
2100f136
15.4
Space Dyed
PA6
2450f136
18.0
Space Dyed
PA6
2600f136
19.1
Space Dyed
Bright Semi Dull Dull
PRODUCT RANGE OPTIONS 2017
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DOLAN® The solution dyed acrylic fibre
1
Lenzing Plastics - Products Acrylics
Thermoplast
PTFE
Outdoor / Textile – DOLAN®
Barrier Laminates
Cable Industry
Filtration
Roof Underlining
Medical Applications
Construction Industry
Insulation Facings
Functional Textiles
Precursor for Carbon Fiber Production
Special Fabrics
Architectural Textiles
Automotive
Special Applications
Artificial Turf
Filtration
Cable Industry
Compression Packings
Packaging Fiber Bale Packaging
62
YARNS
What is DOLAN®? DOLAN® is a solution dyed acrylic fiber especially well suited for all applications which require a high level of weather and light fastness.
Choose color-fastness instead!
3
Acrylic products – DOLAN®
Marine • • • • •
Boat covers Sail covers Cushions Biminis Cockpit sun shades
Flock
Awning
Outdoor / Indoor
Automotive
• • • • • •
• Convertible car top • Seating fabric
Garden upholstery Sun umbrellas Curtains Table cloth Indoor sofas Curtains
63
Properties
DOLAN® 25 Yarn production Fiber production Dolan GmbH
Textiles Applications
6
64
YARNS
The ideal fiber for all indoor and outdoor applications Fiber production via a special wet spinning process Color pigments injected into the structure of the fiber
Excellent light and color fastness all colors deliver light fastness grade 4-5 of 5 (grey scale) ISO 105-B02 No fading under intensive sunlight
Buckling resistance Fracture thoughness
7
The ideal fiber for all indoor and outdoor applications Excellent weather fastness all colors deliver weather fastness grade 4-5 of 5 (grey scale) ISO 105-B04 Watertightness and water repellence
Very high fastness of perspiraton acidic and alkaline perspiration grade 4-5 of 5 – ISO 105-E04 Very high sea water resistance grade 4-5 of 5 – ISO 105-E02 Very high swimming pool water resistance grade 4-5 of 5 – ISO 105-E03
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The ideal fiber for all indoor and outdoor applications Superb stain resistant properties dry dirt, oil repellence Excellent properties especially for outdoor applications Easy-care and wash resistance Resistant to rot, mould, fungal decay and insects No easing of properties at moisturizing (microorganism) Resistance to certain chemicals e.g. detergents,
cleaning agents, environmental toxins, bird droppings
10
Light and weather fastness Accelerated weathering: Intensification of solar radiation through mirrors
66
YARNS
Light and weather fastness Artificial weathering with test apparatus e.g. ATLAS Xenontester
12
The ideal fiber for all indoor and outdoor applications Perfect durability and shape retention Very high dimensional stability and ductility Dimensional compensation function
Excellent wear and abrasion resistance No holes and cracks Rubbing fastness (no white rubbing, no change in color)
Excellent UV stability (DIN EN ISO 105/B-04) and thermal stability against light at high temperature (VDA 75202) Very resistant due to their chemical structure High UV resistance DOLAN® blocks up to 90% of UV-rays 67 9
Comparative light fastness results ARIZONA-Test with Xenon tester Exposure of all samples with 500 hours, 6 IR + 1 UV DOLAN® solution dyed
Polyester yarn dyed
Standard acrylic fiber, yarn dyed 13
Light- and weather fastness (test standard) ISO 105 B04
ISO 105 B10
AATCC 169
Irradiance [W/m²] range 300-400 mm
42
60
40
Irradiance [W/m²] range 300-800 mm
424
605
403
e.g. 1000
e.g. 1000
1746
35
38
(70)
Keine Angabe
65
27
0,5 0,4 0,8 0,5
0,7 0,5 1,2 0,8
0,8 0,6 1,4 0,9
Test standard
Test period [h] Test chamber temperature [Grad C] Humidity [%] Equal in [years]
Florida Arizona Central Europe Southern France
DIN EN ISO 105 B02: Textiles – color fastness test - part B 02: color fastness againts artifical light: Xenon arc light DIN EN ISO 105 B04: Textiles – color fastness test - part B 04: color fastness againts artifical weathering: Xenon arc light Rating: Blue scale: grade 1 (bad) until grade 8 (very good) Grey scale: grade 1 (bad) until grade 5 (very good) 68 14
YARNS
Color fastness (test standard) Test standard Sea water resistance
ISO 105 E02 Determination of color resistance of textiles against diving into sea water.
Test standard
ISO 105 E03
Swimming pool water resistance
This method determines the resistance of the color of textiles to the action of active chlorine in concentrations such as are used to disinfect swimming-bath water. A specimen of the textile is treated with a weak chlorine solution of a given concentration and dried. The test duration is 1 hour at a temperature of 27 c a suitable testing device is a Gyrowash as used for the color fastness to washing tests. There are three different test solutions (20 mg/l, 50 mg/l und 100 mg/l).
Test standard
ISO 105 E04
Fastness of perspiration This method is intended for determining the resistance of the color of textiles to the action of human perspiration. Specimens of the textile in contact with adjacent fabric are treated in two different solutions containing histidene (alkaline and acidic solution). Evaluation: The change in color of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale. Grey scale: Grade 1 (bad) until Grade 5 (very good) 15
Blue scale Standard procedure for blue scale evaluation A woolen fabric (natural sheep wool) is dyed with eight different light fast blue tones which delivers the blue scale.
In the Xenon tester the test fabric and the wool fabric will be exposed to light for an identical time period. The wool fabric is protected with a screen to avoid spraying of this fabric which may be done if weather fastness is also to be tested.
Finally the test fabric and the blue wool fabric are compared to the initial eight different blue scales which delivers the results for the blue scale test. (8 out of 8 is the best result.).
PROBLEM: All fabrics which are in the Xenotester for more than 700 hours (which equals approximately 7 months outdoor exposure) cannot be effectively evaluated with the blue scale method because the number eight blue scale has also faded. It is also relevant to mention that the test conditions are not the same for both fabrics as the wool fabric is protected with a screen to avoid spraying during the rain simulation. 16
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Design, Manufacturing of a New Laboratory Type Filament Yarn Drawing Machine and Featured Yarn Development Studies ABSTRACT In the establishments where continuous filament yarn production is made, the production line covers a fairly large scale, the production continues non-stop all day long and this industrial type machines possess a large number of process parameters. Because of these reasons, during the production activities it is pretty demanding to R&D and P&D studies in industry. In the view of this disadvantageous case, this study was carried out and with this study it was aimed to do continuous and systematic researches towards filament yarns. Thus, this study has two stages. The first one is the study of design, improving and manufacturing lab-type filament yarn production machinery based on melt spinning principle and the second one is the study of original product development done in the manufactured machinery. As a result, many scientific studies about production of filament yarns especially for application of technical textiles can be realized with this lab-type machine.
I. INTRODUCTION Nowadays, many scientific studies are carried out in order to improve the properties of synthetic filament yarns because functionalized filament yarns are quite important for the development of the textile industry. Thanks to R&D and P&D studies that have been conducted on these products especially in recent years, filament yarns have gained many functional properties such as UV-resistance, flame retardant (FR), anti-bacterial properties, etc. 70
YARNS
One of the most preferred methods for production these types of products is adding micro and nano scale additives to polymer raw material in the chip form during the filament yarn production in industry and especially, melt spinning method is preferred for these type studies. As a result, end products with unique properties are produced by using this method for different areas of use. However, in the establishments where filament yarn production is made, the production line covers a fairly large scale, the production continues non-stop all day long and this industrial type machines possess a large number of process parameters. Hence, during the production activities it is pretty demanding to R&D and P&D studies in industry. Laboratory-type production machines are ideal for continuous and systematic R&D studies. These type machines can be controlled easily and thus, production parameters can be selected and adjusted according to scientific researches. Hence, scientific studies are performed with use of these type machines. When the literature was examined on this subject, we have reached two basic results. The first is, the lab-scale filament yarn production machines have been manufactured by various companies in the world [1-5] and secondly, lots of researches and studies have been carried out on these type machines [6-10]. Because of these situations, this study was carried out and with this study it was aimed to do continuous and systematic researches about filament yarns.
The purpose of this study is to produce high value added products with a new prototype filament yarn machine in our country. In this context, this study is basically two phased; the first phase is comprised of the design and manufacturing of the laboratory-type filament yarn production machine and the second phase is comprised of the product development studies conducted on the manufactured machine. Hereby, many scientific studies about production of filament yarns especially, specific applications for the textile industry can be realized with this machine. From these points of views, the study is in a character that both enlightens the science, and contributes to our country’s economy thanks to commercialize this machine.
II. DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING The scientific studies in related fields can be varied and accelerated with laboratory-type filament yarn drawing machine. Various manufacturers of lab-type filament yarn machines are located in the world and usually researchers in our country have purchased these machines very high amounts from these firms. Also, these filament yarns may not be produced with desired quality according to industrial product. In the view of these situations, this study was realized. The aim with this study was to design, development and manufacture of a lab-type filament yarn machine for the first time in our country and end of this study, this aim has been achieved.
Then, a new laboratory-type small-scale machine was manufactured and the first prototype of the developed machine was installed at the “Filament Yarn Production Laboratory of the Çukurova University Textile Engineering Department”. Then, the trial yarn production studies were completed. Currently, there are still several R&D production studies are in progress with the machine. For example, continuous filament yarns have been produced recently with properties such as Flame Retardant, UV Resistance and High Tenacity; and both the mechanic and unique features of these products have been analysed. This machine has been developed based on melt-spinning principle. Laboratory type machine possesses six units basically. These are feeding and extruder units, melt pumping unit, cooling unit (with quench air), drawing unit, texturing unit and winding unit, respectively. Machine has been designed as to can produce flat filament, textured yarn or intermingled yarn products. As a result, with this study, laboratory-type filament yarn drawing machine has been manufactured for first time in our country and this machinery have been commercialized.
This machinery manufacturing studies are mainly composed of newly design, development and manufacture stages. Before these stages, reviews of the literature and feasibility studies have been carried out. Within the scope of the feasibility studies; studies of design and sizing of machine, determining of basic machine units and calculating of production parameters of these units have been carried out. In addition, these studies have been supported by the results of literature. After these studies, the technical drawings with AutoCAD and SolidWorks programs have been performed for a new machine design study. Also, these technical drawings have been drawn in detail for all machine parts. Hence, these drawing studies have been continued during the manufacturing of machine. Another important stage of this study is determining of materials for machine. This stage has been carried out attentively and all materials of labmachine have been selected. Then, manufacturing parameters have been calculated. For the first phase of the study, first of all, detailed feasibility studies were conducted and the design of the laboratory-type filament yarn production machine was finalized.
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III. FILAMENT YARN PRODUCTIONS Today, synthetic yarn properties are developed and enriched thanks to scientific researches on this subject. Realization of these type studies in laboratory type machines provides many advantages such as feasibility, controllability, flexibility, continuity, etc. Hence, usually laboratory type machines are preferred for scientific researches about filament yarns production. Subjects of scientific researches which are conducted on these type machine in general, studies on the production parameters of machine (spinneret configuration, drawing ratio, winding parameters, etc.), production of functionalized filament yarns with addition of different additive materials (micro or nano scale of FR, UV, anti-bacterial, etc.), production of different types of filament yarns (flat, textured, intermingled yarns) can be listed. As a result of these productions, the yarn properties can be improved or new and useful properties can be imparted to the yarn. Moreover, thanks to these type productions, in-depth researches can be realized about structural, mechanical and original/specific properties of filament yarns. For instance, we have prepared of PP filaments incorporating micro particles by using this machine and investigate the effects of these particles on flame retardant and mechanical properties of the filament yarns. The PP polymer chips and FR additives were fed into the hopper consisting of a single-screw extrusion system. The heating along the screw was adjusted to obtain a temperature gradient from 220°C to 245°C and a volumetric pump regulated the injection of molten polymer towards the dies at a flow rate of 350 cm3 per minute. Then, the filaments were air cooled and spin finish was applied on the filaments before their passage in the drawing godets. Then filaments were drawn by means of heated godets before being wound. The speeds of the two godets serve to adjust the drawing ratio: the first godet speed was set at 400 rpm, whereas the second one was set at 800 rpm, giving a drawing ratio of 2. Finally, the filament yarns were wound on a cheese package. In addition to, during the production process, all other parameters except for the factors whose effects were aimed to be investigated (ratio of additive material) were kept constant. The filament yarns obtained consisted of 144 individual filaments and linear density of these yarns 918 denier. Also, these yarns have round cross-sectional shape. Based on the results of the study, filament yarns have been concluded to have desired flame retardant properties.
72
YARNS
As a result of flammability tests, the LOI values of all phosphorus-containing PP knitted fabrics were determined between 25% and 30%. On the other hand, some differences in the properties of the produced yarns such as tenacity, breaking elongation, unevenness have been observed and surface images of these yarns have been examined using SEM analysis. This study shows that in addition to functional properties, structural and mechanical properties. such as tenacity, breaking elongation, unevenness etc. are also important for functionalized filament yarns. Hence, these important properties should be at specific values for the production of high quality filament yarn. As a result, functionalized filament yarns can be produced on this labtype machine with this method, properties of filament yarns have been examined and flame retardant filament yarns were produced successfully
IV. FUTURE WORKS Many studies about filament yarn technology can be performed by using laboratory type filament yarn drawing machine. Some of them are listed below.
• Effects of production parameters on the structure, mechanical and specific properties of flat or textured yarns can be carried out. • Studies of development of production conditions/ parameters of lab-type machine can be carried out. • Filament yarns can be produced with different/ various additive materials such as UV, antimicrobial, etc. and then, properties of these yarns can be examined. • Filament yarns can be produced with different sized additive materials (micro and nano scale). Then, properties of these yarns can be examined. • Studies can be performed for development of texturizing properties of yarns (Changing production parameters: spinneret configuration, drawing ratio, texturizing conditions; air pressure, air temperature, nozzle configuration, etc.) • Filament yarn can be produced with newly features (by using new additive material). • Properties of filament yarns can be developed. • New designs of machine materials can be carried out. Yarn product features can be developed with these designs. If some or all studies described above are achieved, results of these studies will contribute to textile science and technology. Moreover, newly results can be patented.
V. CONCLUSIONS Thanks to this study, a newly designed lab-type machine has been manufactured and also, functionalized products have been produced on this machine, too. This performed study has two fundamental outputs: a laboratory type filament yarn production machine and products with high added value/technology based products. The direct impacts of the study on science, industry and economy are listed below; • With the manufacturing of a machinery that can also be commercially marketed, speeding up the scientific research aimed at synthetic filament yarn production and conduct research and trials on these type of prototype machinery aimed at resolving the possible problems of the industry. • Contribute to science by issuing many publications based on the knowledge to be obtained as a result of the research studies to be conducted on the prototype machine,
• As such a machine has now become possible to be manufactured domestically, eliminating the problem of purchasing this type of machine from abroad at very high prices and by creating an opportunity for the researchers, wishing to buy this machine, to buy it at a cheaper price, contributing both to them and the regional industries thereof, • Considering that machinery, textile and raw material industries significantly contribute to the development of the country, obtaining gains for both branches of industry with this study, • By promoting this laboratory type filament yarn production machine both nationally and internationally, contributing to the export figures of machinery and parts of our country provided that this machine receives demand from abroad, • Furthermore, creating a fine example for universityindustry cooperation with this study and being able to become an exemplary with the production studies performed on the machine.
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INVISTA enters into definitive agreement to sell Apparel & Advanced Textiles business INVISTA has entered into a definitive agreement with Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding to sell INVISTA’s Apparel & Advanced Textiles business, one of INVISTA’s four major business units. Completion of the agreement is subject to customary closing conditions including regulatory clearances from competition authorities. Closing is expected by mid-2018. The purchase price is undisclosed. The transaction includes: - INVISTA’s portfolio of apparel-focused fibers and brands including LYCRA® fiber, LYCRA HyFit® fiber, COOLMAX® fiber, THERMOLITE® fiber and insulation, ELASPAN® fiber, SUPPLEX® fiber and TACTEL® fiber products - TERATHANE® polytetramethylene ether glycol (PTMEG), 1,4 butanediol (BDO), and tetrahydrofuran (THF) production - Related manufacturing assets, research and development centers, and sales offices around the globe - All associated technical, operations, commercial and administrative staff (approximately 3,000 employees globally) “The Apparel business has always been a strategic and valued part of our portfolio,” said Jeff Gentry, INVISTA chairman and CEO. “We engaged the market because we want this business to be owned by the company that can create the greatest value for customers, employees and stockholders. In this case, we believe that Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding has the knowledge and capability that will enable this business to thrive the most and succeed over the long term.” INVISTA will retain ownership of its nylon, polyester, polyols and licensing businesses and related brands. This includes INVISTA’s world-leading nylon 6,6 intermediates business, its global nylon polymer and fiber portfolio, and widely recognized brands including STAINMASTER® and ANTRON® carpet fibers and CORDURA® fabric. INVISTA will also retain its intellectual property rights for 1,4 butanediol (BDO), tetrahydrofuran (THF) and polytetramethylene ether glycol (PTMEG) technologies and will continue to license these technologies on a global basis. “We look forward to intensifying our focus on the nylon value chain,” Gentry said. “For nearly 80 years, we’ve delivered innovations to the nylon industry, including the most advanced adiponitrile technology in the marketplace. We have talented people with decades of know-how and you can count on INVISTA to continue building on this heritage of leadership and innovation.” Goldman Sachs & Co. LLC is serving as exclusive financial advisor to INVISTA, and Jones Day is acting as INVISTA’s legal advisor on this transaction. J.P. Morgan is serving as exclusive financial advisor to Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding, and Latham & Watkins is acting as Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding’s legal advisor on this transaction. J.P. Morgan and Barclays are providing committed financing to affiliate(s) of Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding. 74
YARNS
75
Tarkett adds a touch of colour to its DESSO AirMaster® Atmos range combining functionality and design Tarkett, a global leader in innovative and sustainable solutions for flooring and sports surfaces, has extended its acclaimed DESSO AirMaster® Atmos carpet collection, offering architects and designers more creative freedom with additional colour options to choose from. AirMaster® Atmos offers patented technology, designed to improve indoor air quality, contributing to better health and wellbeing. The DESSO AirMaster® Atmos collection is now available in a range of 12 colours, including six new colour options. Offering a variety of neutral grey tones, alongside more vibrant red and yellow shades, designers can experiment with the new choice of colours to create the perfect backdrop for a sleek modern interior.
GUI Gold label The structured loop pile carpet tile features a unique, patented technology which is proven to be eight times more effective in capturing and retaining fine dust than smooth flooring solutions (PM10) and four times more effective than standard carpet solutions (PM10)[1]. Following rigorous tests from the independent German test institute GUI, which specialises in the analysis of indoor and outdoor air quality, DESSO AirMaster® became the first product in the world to be certified with a GUI Gold label.[2] [1]Based on tests performed by GUI with DESSO AirMaster® versus a standard smooth floor and versus [2]The GUI Gold logo has been awarded based on the average of 15 repeated tests in which the excellent fine dust capturing performance of DESSO AirMaster® was measured, to safeguard that the results are scientifically sound and not just based on a one-time performance
76
YARNS
“Today, most people spend 90% of their time indoors, so it’s imperative that we create healthy interiors. As a supplier of carpets, we believe it is our responsibility to develop products that contribute to a healthier living and working space. By extending the AirMaster® Atmos range we hope to offer designers more creative possibilities to enable them to build healthier spaces without having to compromise on aesthetic effects.“
Cradle to Cradle® principles In line with DESSO’s ongoing commitment to sustainability, the AirMaster® Atmos collection comes with DESSO EcoBase® as standard backing. This EcoBase™ backing contains at least 70% positively defined recycled content, in accordance with Cradle to Cradle® principles. The carpet tiles also contain ECONYL® yarn - a 100% regenerated nylon made from recovered waste materials such as fishing nets and yarn waste from DESSO’s own Refinity® pilot facility, which separates the yarn and other fibres from the backing.
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ADVANTAGES
Spinning Preparation
Best quality at ADVANTAGES highest productivity ....................... 02
RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
The most energy efficient draw frame on the market .............. 04 Integrated know-how ..................... 06
OUTSTANDING FEATURES
RSB-D 50
Outstanding features ....................... 08 Low energy consumption ............... 10 Increased productivity ................... 11
RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
Outstanding sliver evenness ........... 12 Online quality monitoring .............. 13 Efficient suction concept ................. 14
OUTSTANDING FEATURES
Modern drafting technique ............. 15 Innovation in sliver coiling ............. 16 Efficient operator guidance ............. 18 Know-how in the machine display .............................. 19 Well thought-out service and maintenance concept ............... 20 Minimal space requirements........... 22 Product range .................................. 23
TECHNICAL DATA
TECHNICAL DATA
Machine data .................................. 24
A new dimension in productivity, quality and easy operation
Best Quality at Highest Productivity
THECOMFORT COMFORT OF THE OFCOMPETENCE TheCOMPETENCE Comfort of Competence............ 26
The rise in productivity of up to 33 % is based on innovative autolevelling, drive technique and fibre guidance.
RSB-D 50
78
The Most Energyefficient Draw Frame on the Market
YARNS
4
25Â % less belts and drive elements reduce friction and thus the energy costs up to 1 000 Euro per RSB and year.
Integrated Know-how
RSB-D 50 RSB-D 50 6 5
Outstanding Sliver Evenness RSB autolevelling quality through excellent scanning precision and highest levelling dynamics
Wide Draw Frame Portfolio With 1 and 2 head draw frames, the right draw frame for every requirement
Efficient Suction Frequency-controlled drive, automatic filter cleaning, lifting cleaning lips on top rollers
Energy Saving 25 % less belts and drive elements, energy-efficient drive ECOrized
The SLIVERprofessional expert system on the touchscreen enables a rapid assortment changeover at optimal sliver quality.
Unique Sliver Coiling Individual drive, sliver sensor, CLEANcoil, CLEANcoil-PES, CLEANtube
79 8
7
OUTSTANDING
RSB-D 50 FEATURES
Outstanding Sliver Evenness The RSB autolevelling with highest scanning precision and levelling dynamics
Levelling begins with scanning precision
Know-how in the Machine Display
Perfect levelling begins with the precision of the feed sliver scanning. In comparison to other “tongue and groove” systems, the RSB scanning is remarkable due to the smallest scanning rollers. Thus, a short piece of sliver is located between the rollers. This gives a high measurement resolution and is the prerequisite for exact levelling.
The SLIVERprofessional expert system is integrated in the machine
Efficient Operator Guidance
Levelling demands dynamics
Touchscreen, LEDs visible from a distance, USB interface
The drive concept ensures that the precise scanning values are also transmitted right into the drafting system and improve the sliver quality. This requires a high dynamic level in the power transmission. This is achieved by means of fewer movable parts as well as a high dynamic level of the servomotors. This results in superb sliver evenness, even at highest deivery speeds – from the first to the last centimetre.
Modern Drafting System Improved fibre guiding, large top rollers with lifetime lubricated bearings
The RSB levelling principle
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
High Productivity
A digital signal processor processes the signals of the scanning discs on the basis of a sophisticated algorithmic calculation. The value is then precisely transmitted to the drive, when the measured sliver piece is found at the drafting point of the main drafting field. The result is a sliver resp. yarn with excellent short, middle and long-term evenness.
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
Scanning discs
Digital signal processor
Levelling AC servo-drive
Drafting system
Delivery roller AC servo-drive
Rieter Quality Monitor
Delivery speed of up to 1 200 m/min at best quality 9
Increased Productivity High delivery speed at consistent quality
12
Low Energy Consumption New drive concept ECOrized
High delivery speeds
Efficiency at the highest level
The SB-D 50 draw frame without levelling and the RSB-D 50 autoleveller draw frame produce, in practice, at a delivery speed of up to 1 200 m/min. Even more important than an increase of the maximal speed is that according to the fibre material, the speed could be increased by up to 33 %. The reasons are numerous: • Excellent scanning precision by means of small scanning discs • Improved sliver and fibre guiding • Levelling motor with highest dynamics • Precise sliver coiling by means of the CLEANcoil coiler (and CLEANcoil-PES coiler for 100 % PES)
Production efficiency also lies at a high level. The following factors are some that are responsible for this: • Lower maintenance and cleaning • Integrated know-how, for instance SLIVERprofessional expert system for rapid assortment changeover • Less number of lappings thanks to large top rollers and lifting cleaning lips • Reliable rotational can changer with short changeover times
Less friction and less noise With the patented drive concept ECOrized, 25 % of the belts and drive elements are saved compared to the previous model. Two servo-motors drive the drafting system. Unique are the frequency-controlled drive for the suction and the individual drive for the coiler. The new drive solution for the coiler leads to straight belt tracking and a far longer lifetime. The quiet machine is the evidence for low friction.
Saving power The new drive solution generates yearly savings up to 1 000 Euro for each RSB-D 50. If the saving over the lifetime of the machine is compared with the investment, a very attractive ratio results. As a standard feature, the draw frames are now equipped with integrated energy measuring. A significantly increased power consumption of an individual machine could indicate an arising problem allowing thereby preventive maintenance.
Sturdy with power fluctuations With a short power fluctuation, the control voltage is supplied from the drive converter. This energy store can compensate short-term voltage interruptions and reductions – the draw frame keeps running. With longer interruptions, the draw frame with active autolevelling shuts down in a controlled manner. The web remains in the threaded condition and allows a rapid restart.
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YARNS
Online Quality Monitoring
Efficient Suction Concept
Reliability due to Rieter Quality Monitor
Consistent yarn quality in downstream processing
Lifting cleaning lips on the top rollers
The Rieter Quality Monitor (RQM) reliably prevents the production of faulty sliver. It operates independently of the autolevelling unit. The RQM continuously monitors the thickness of the delivered sliver by means of the moveable calander disc roll and stops the draw frame automatically if the pre-determined limits are exceeded. The spectrogram already detects shortest wavelengths and thus substantiates the precision of the measurement. This reduces the number of sliver tests in the laboratory. For more advanced analyses, connection to the SPIDERweb mill control system is possible.
Trash accumulations on the cleaning lips are drawn directly into the suction through the intermittent lifting of the lips. Practical tests confirmed that fewer sliver funnel blockages due to dust accumulation on the pressure bar occurred. The increased yarn cleanliness is shown in reduced IPI and Classimat faults as well as in a lower number of yarn clearer cuts.
Less frequent cleaning of top rollers
Quality data of the RQM
Advantages of thick places detection
• Sliver count A % • Sliver evenness CV % and length variation values for 5 cm, 10 cm, 25 cm, 50 cm, 1 m, 3 m, 5 m • Actual spectrogram • Presentation of the quality diagram up to 20 days • Recording of thick places > 2 cm
• Monitoring of the cleaning and maintenance services on the card, comber and draw frame • Monitoring of the sliver piecings • Support with technological optimisations • Improvement of the sliver and yarn quality • Securing high productivity on the roving frame, end spinning machine and winder
The patented cleaning lips and their layout reduce formation of deposits on the top rollers of the drafting system and consequently the associated cleaning procedures. Also with the processing of cotton containing honeydew, the cleaning lips have a positive effect. Fewer stops due to cleaning work and fewer laps in the drafting system increase the productivity of the machine.
Frequency-controlled suction motor Only on the Rieter draw frame can the operator set the suction intensity easily and rapidly on the machine display. The setting is easy to reproduce. This simplifies not only material change but also eliminates quality deviations when, for instance, several draw frames are feeding sliver to one assortment.
Constant suction
Vacuum / cleaning efficiency 100 %
The automatic filter cleaning system keeps the filter screen clean with the help of a wiper. An innovative measurement of differential pressure in the suction box controls the automatic cleaning cycle and keeps the vacuum absolutely constant. The result is consistent sliver and yarn quality as well as running performance in the subsequent process. Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
50 %
0%
Cleaning intervals Manual cleaning
Suction system ECOrized
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
14
Innovations in Coiling Precise, consistent coiling quality and good downstream processing
CLEANcoil and CLEANcoil-PES coilers CLEANcoil is the standard coiler for all fibre materials and therefore offers maximal flexibility. The spiral coiling tube ensures coiling which is free of drafting faults, even at high delivery speeds. A honeycomb structure on the coiler underside reliably prevents deposits.
Modern Drafting System Engineering 13
Quality through specific sliver and fibre guidance
Optimised fibre guidance Conventional sliver guides in front of the drafting unit are often wrongly adjusted. The most frequent fault is non-centrical guidance of the sliver. The patented sliver guide guarantees centrical sliver guidance and consistent sliver quality at all times. The web width is reproducibly set by simple turning of the guide elements. The geometry of the 4 over 3 drafting system allows close cylinder spacing and therefore also good processing of short fibre lengths. Additional fibre guides in the main drafting field prevent lateral slipping of the edge fibres. Fewer disturbing faults in the yarn are the result.
For the processing of 100 % polyester, the latest development CLEANcoil-PES with a new type of coating offers unique advantages in coiling. Even with critical polyester fibres, the cleaning cycle can be extended by at least 100 %. This also leads to more consistent sliver and yarn quality.
Innovative top roller engineering
CLEANtube – coiling without trash accumulations With the processing of cotton or its blends with man-made fibres, trash particles as well as short fibres can accumulate during can filling in the sliver duct of the coiler. When the can filling quantity is reached, the draw frame stops and this accumulation, known amongst experts as “mouse”, comes to rest on the top sliver layer. The optional equipment CLEANtube is an intelligent control of the coiler drive, that prevents trash particles and short fibres accumulating in the sliver tube. Per year and draw frame, CLEANtube saves up to 300 hours of work for the manual removal of the “mouse” as well as up to approximately 0.6 % sliver waste. CLEANtube avoids up to 200 000 defective places per year and draw frame and thus keeps the production efficiency in subsequent processing as well as the yarn quality high.
The large top rollers guarantee interruption-free operation without lap formation as well as high service lives. They keep the rotational speed and consequently the temperature of the top roller cots low. This is the basis for high delivery speeds. The load of the top rollers can be set variably, the top roller bearings are lifetime lubricated.
Easy operation If a lap occurs in the drafting system, the rapid discharge already during the stopping of the machine prevents formation of hard laps. Easy removal of laps ensures the quality of the cots and therefore the running behaviour of the draw frame. Threading a sliver into the web nozzle is very easy. The motors of the drafting system produce a finer sliver peak which is automatically threaded in by compressed air, quickly and reliably. The central setting of the drafting system distances without gauges allows rapid assortment change.
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Unique sensor for exact first sliver coils
Efficient Operator Guidance
A contact-free precision light barrier detects when the first sliver coils make contact with the coiler and only then switches the machine from the slow mode to full production speed. This guarantees controlled sliver coiling even in cans where the plates are too low, and ensures consistent sliver and yarn quality. Precise sliver coiling from the first metre prevents tangles in the subsequent process and breaks when drawing the sliver out of the can. The cans therefore run without interruption until they are completely empty. This maintains machine efficiency at a high level, reduces operator intervention and eliminates sliver waste.
The new dimension in operator-friendliness
Touch display for intuitive operating
Modern interfaces for fast lot change
The SB-D 50 and RSB-D 50 use the latest control generation as well as a coloured touch display with a high resolution. This allows intuitive and easy operator guidance.
By means of the USB interface, the data is quickly and easily transferred to other machines. Connection to the Rieter data system SPIDERweb is possible as a standard feature.
LED lights help the operator Clear indications are of decisive importance for the operator when it concerns keeping distances short. Therefore, visible LEDs continue to indicate the condition of the draw frame. This enormously simplifies the work for the operator.
Quality without outliers Even when only a small number of can plates are too low in a spinning mill, the new sliver sensor brings considerable advantages. Assuming 1 % of the annual number of filled cans are affected, then that means for each draw frame a figure of up to 4 000 cans. Thanks to the sliver sensor, faultless first sliver coils are guaranteed in all these cans – despite difficult conditions. This is a further step towards perfect quality without outliers. A patent is pending for this innovation.
Versatile information The display offers, in addition to data on production and sliver quality, helpful extra information: for example, a logbook for the complete documentation of the machine settings or detailed notification of machine downtimes with cause and duration. These are helpful tools for problem analysis on shifts with few personnel, for instance, at night.
Reliable sliver separation When processing fibres with high fibre-fibre friction, as is often the case with man-made fibres, active sliver separation is necessary for a trouble-free can change. To achieve this, the motors of the autoleveller drafting system create a thin place, which is transported below the coiler and deliberately breaks at can change.
17 Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
Know-how in the Machine Display Produce quality thanks to integrated know-how
Well-thought-out Service and Maintenance Concept
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High availability of the machine at low costs
Availability of personnel
High service lives
Frequent personnel changes or shortage of specialists are an increasing problem for spinning mills. Consequently, Rieter helps its customers with attractive supporting measures direct on the machine display.
Excess pressure in the interior of the machine forces the heat outwards. This leads to high service lives of electronic and mechanical components. All essential fibre guiding parts have a resistant coating and thus ensure a long service life.
SLIVERprofessional expert system on the machine
Self-setting autolevelling AUTOset With a lot change, the levelling action point is the most important setting value of the autolevelling. The self-setting autolevelling AUTOset determines the levelling action point automatically and thus saves valuable time. AUTOset guarantees the correct settings even with inexperienced personnel and ensures the high quality level of the draw frames from Rieter.
Settings on the display The following settings can be conveniently made on the display and the time for a lot change is significantly reduced. • Coiler speed (USP) • Suction intensity (USP) • Total draft • Delivery speed
Automatically covered area of the levelling action point [mm] Best value
Convenient lubrication The SB-D 50 and RSB-D 50 have two possibilities to lubricate the machine. The machine is equipped with a central lubricating strip as a standard feature. This is easily accessible and ensures that no lubricating point is forgotten. Optionally, the draw frames are also available with a central lubricating point, which offers maximal maintenance convenience.
Operating manual on the machine Printed operating manuals are often not accessibly stored. For this reason, the SB-D 50 and RSB-D 50 make the essential chapters of the operating manual available on the display of the draw frame. This creates new possibilities and saves time.
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Automatic setting of the levelling action point by means of AUTOset in approx. 1 minute
Sliver CV % from RQM
The SLIVERprofessional expert system is, for the first time, integrated into the machine display and offers valuable technological support. This unique tool offers a setting recommendation, after entering the raw material data, for the entire machine. This can be transmitted as a data record onto the machine. In addition, SLIVERprofessional assists with the analysis of spectrogram faults such as periods and draft waves. This leads to a rapid fault correction and higher availability of the machine.
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Minimal Space Requirements Machine layouts for all space conditions
Sliver feed versions
Quick tensioning device
The draw frame feed can be executed as actively driven roller feed or as creel without drive, for 6- to 8-fold doubling. The height of the supports is adjustable and can be adjusted to the respective can heights up to 1 520 mm.
Quick tensioning devices for the belts guarantee the right belt tension force, independent of maintenance personnel. This ensures a rapid belt change as well as a long lifetime of the belts and bearings.
Standard layout 2-row 8-fold
Space requirements
Training videos on CD
To adjust to confined space conditions in the spinning mill, the following variations are available: • Shortened spare can supply for short machine lengths • Compact arrangement by joint platform with neighbouring draw frames for compact machine width
Minimal machine length due to shortened empty can supply (example with an empty can)
Rieter supports its customers with an electronic instruction manual on CD which contains videos. The videos clearly describe the correct setting and maintenance of the machine and can be used for training the employees. Competent employees keep the service costs low. Productivity and sliver quality remain at a constantly high level. Minimal machine width due to joint platform with neighbouring draw frames
Assembly on/recessed into floor The SB-D 50 and the RSB-D 50 allow, as previously, assembly on the floor, which makes very flexible positioning possible. A new option is recessed into the floor. In this case, the transfer height of the can on the empty can magazine is lower and thus more convenient. The full cans are pushed out directly onto the spinning mill floor.
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
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Machine Data
Product Range
RSB-D 50 autoleveller draw frame and SB-D 50 draw frame
The right draw frame for your individual needs
With more than 40 000 installed RSB/SB draw frame heads, Rieter is the globally leading draw frame manufacturer. The draw frame innovations provide our customers with competitive advantages. With the versatile draw frame range, Rieter offers the right draw frame for every requirement in respect of quality, productivity, operator convenience and space
21
requirements. All autolevelling draw frames from Rieter use the highly dynamic RSB autolevelling technique. This ensures highest quality standards in the yarn and in the end product as well as excellent running properties in the subsequent manufacturing stages.
SINGLE-HEAD DRAW FRAMES
DOUBLE-HEAD DRAW FRAMES
Autoleveller draw frame
Autoleveller draw frame
RSB-D 50(c)
RSB-D 24(c)
Draw frame without autolevelling
Draw frame without autolevelling
Coiling with can changer K2 [mm]
SB-D 50
SB-D 22
Power creel (driven)
Number of empty cans
A [mm]
B [mm] ejected onto floor
B [mm] ejected onto trolley
C [mm] cans with castors
C [mm] cans without castors
D [mm]
350
5
400
K1 [mm]
L6 [mm]
L8 [mm]
500
2 850
2 380
1 300
1 600
3 302
2 422
1 960
3 350
600
2 850
5
2 380
1 300
1 600
3 302
2 422
1 960
3 350
800
3 700
450
4
2 380
1 300
1 800
3 302
2 422
1 960
4 750
900
3 700
470
4
2 380
1 300
1 880
3 302
2 422
1 960
4 750
1 000
3 700
500
4
2 380
1 300
2 000
3 302
2 422
1 960
A2 dependent on the can height KH
4 750
600
4
2 380
1 406
2 540
3 360
2 280
1 960
KH [mm]
A2 [mm]
1 000
1
2 935
940
—
2 430
—
1 960
900
0
≥1 000
236
≥1 150
478
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Technological data Type
RSB-D 50
SB-D 50
Material
Cotton, man-made fibres, blends, fibre length up to 60 mm
RSB-D 50c
Doubling [fold]
up to 8
up to 8
up to 8
Feed [ktex]
12-50
12-50
12-50
Draft [fold]
4.0-11.6
4.5-11.6
4.0-11.6
Delivered sliver weight [ktex]
1.25-7
1.25-7
1.25-7
Technical data Delivery
single
single
single
Delivery speed [m/min]
up to 1 200
up to 1 200
up to 600
Main motor [kW]
3.90
5.00
3.90
Intake motor [kW]
3.90
–
3.90
Suction motor [kW]
1.50
1.50
1.50
Machine control [kW]
0.50
0.26
0.50
Coiler motor [kW]
1.10
1.50
1.10
Can changer [kW]
0.25
0.25
0.25
Compressed air/consumption [m3/h] min. 6 bar
0.08
0.08
0.08
Installed power
Standard equipment
Variants
• Energy-saving drive concept ECOrized (patented) • Max. delivery speed 1 200 m/min (RSB-D 50c: 600 m/min) • Frequency-controlled drive for coiler, suction, drafting and delivery speed (SB-D 50: without drafting) • Rieter spring-loaded 4 over 3 drafting system • Drafting system suction unit with cleaning lips on top and bottom rollers • Automatic filter cleaning • Rapid top roller load relief in the event of stoppages or lap formation • Central drafting system setting without gauges • Pneumatic sliver threading-in with sliver refinement • CLEANcoil coiler with honeycomb structure (standard) • Sensor for sliver coiling • Sliver separation by means of draw frame draft (only RSB) • Automatic can changer • Spare can supply for up to 5 reserve cans • Highly dynamic levelling system with “tongue and groove” scanning rollers (RSB) • Self-adjusting autolevelling AUTOset (RSB) • Quality monitoring Rieter Quality Monitor RQM • Central lubricating strip • Lifetime lubricated top roller bearings • Quick tensioning device for belts • Machine display as touchscreen for intuitive operation • Operating manual integrated in the machine display • LED lights for operator guidance, visible from a distance • USB interface • Port to data system SPIDERweb • Operating manual on CD with videos for setting and maintenance
• • • • • • • •
Can format infeed: ∅ up to 1 000 mm, height up to 1 520 mm Can format delivery: ∅ 350 - 1 000 mm, height up to 1 520 mm Can discharge onto floor or can trolley Power creel: two-row can arrangement Creel (not driven): two-row can arrangement Integrated suction system (exhaust air into room or duct) Central suction system Machine assembly recessed into floor or on floor
The Comfort of Competence
Options • • • • • • • •
Put your confidence in Rieter’s competence and enjoy the comfort of partnership!
Pneumatic top roller load CLEANtube – sliver coiling without trash and short fibre deposits Coiler CLEANcoil-PES (100 % PES) Central lubrication (central nipple) Shortened spare can supply (on consultation) Docking unit for can trolleys Connection platform for space-saving machine layout SLIVERprofessional expert system integrated in machine display
Rieter is the leading supplier of installations for manufacturing yarns from short staple fibres. As a competent partner, Rieter makes customers' lives easier. It provides advice and support from the initial investment discussions to the successful operation of their spinning mills. Rieter’s comprehensive know-how from fibre through yarn to the finished textile is the basis for innovative machines and consistent yarn quality.
Rieter . RSB-D 50 Autoleveller Draw Frame and SB-D 50 Draw Frame
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Settle back and relax thanks to Rieter.
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Valuable Systems Rieter is the only textile machine manufacturer to offer four spinning technologies and to advise customers competently, independently and with tailor-made solutions. Investments in Rieter machines are exceptionally attractive due to the outstanding price/performance ratio, the low conversion costs and the longevity of the products, which remain competitive by means of retrofits. Since the company was established in Switzerland in 1795, Rieter has developed high quality standards. All manufacturing facilities are ISO9001 certified.
Rieter’s Services • Investment planning • Plant planning
Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Klosterstrasse 20 CH-8406 Winterthur T +41 52 208 7171 F +41 52 208 8320 machines@rieter.com aftersales@rieter.com
• Project planning and realisation • Installation and maintenance • Preventive inspection • Wide range of wear-and-tear, technology and spare parts
www.rieter.com
Convincing Technology Rieter possesses comprehensive textile and technology expertise and covers the four spinning processes through to the textile end product. Alongside the most sophisticated machines and plants, Rieter offers extensive services in the field of textile technology. Customers profit from examinations and tests in Rieter’s spinning centres and laboratories and thus ensure the excellent quality of their yarns at high production capacity.
Rieter’s Services • Spinning trials based on the 4 spinning systems • Spinning mill analysis to optimise quality and productivity • Textile laboratory services • Professional textile technological publications
Supportive Partnership Numerous sales and service centers support customers throughout the world. For decades, customers have enjoyed the advantages of one responsible contact partner for the entire spinning operation.
Rieter’s Services • Training for management and operating personnel • Com4® yarn marketing (yarn licenses)
The data and illustrations in this brochure and on the corresponding data carrier refer to the date of printing. Rieter reserves the right to make any necessary changes at any time and without special notice. Rieter systems and Rieter innovations are protected by patents.
• Marketing support of reference customers • Rieter Award to confer a distinction on the best students in the textile industry
3008-v2 en 1703
• Support for universities
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YARNS
• Symposia and roadshows close to customers
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Rieter India Private Ltd. Gat No. 768/2, Village Wing Shindewadi-Bhor Road Taluka Khandala, District Satara IN-Maharashtra 412 801 T +91 2169 304 141 F +91 2169 304 226
Rieter (China) Textile Instruments Co., Ltd. Shanghai Branch Unit B-1, 6F, Building A, Synnex International Park 1068 West Tianshan Road CN-Shanghai 200335 T +86 21 6037 3333 F +86 21 6037 3399
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Saurer and its philosophy of innovation and sustainability Saurer Group presents its full range of new technologies in fiber processing from raw material to a multitude of yarns. The product range further includes different finishing processes. Saurer Group’s E³ (triple added value) – philosophy of innovation and sustainability was developed with a clear customer focus. Highest productivity, maximum raw material utilisation and excellent yarn characteristics are key success factors for today’s textile producers. All these properties are reflected in our products.
Saurer Schlafhorst and Zinser
Ring spinning machines from Zinser: a new level of efficiency in the commodity segment. At a length of 2,016 spindles, the Zinser 72 ring spinning machine breaks the 2,000 barrier and sets new standards for efficiency in the commodity segment. The new both-end TwinSuction system, combined with the sensor-controlled OptiSuction yarn break suction system, achieves an energy saving during suction. The Zinser Impact 72 compact spinning machine is equipped with the self-cleaning Impact FX unit and guarantees top productivity and optimal raw material utilisation. Zinser ring spinning machines offer maximised production, consistent yarn quality, a range of different automation options and excellent profitability thanks to their proven and highly regarded cutting-edge technology.
Rotor Spinning at Schlafhorst: Sustainable and future-oriented. The fully automatic Autocoro 9 using individual spinning positions technology sets new standards for productivity, efficiency and quality. The unmatched rotor speeds, machine lengths and take-up speeds reduce the spinning cost and energy consumption considerably by a two-digit percentage value. Intelligent automated processes and Lean Maintenance reduce the maintenance costs. This increases the user-friendliness and saves on personnel costs. Nevertheless, the Autocoro 9 achieved constant high performance with any raw materials and under all operating conditions. Flexibility and automation turn the Autocoro 9 into the production platform of the future. The new semi-automatic BD 7 machine is also in a league of its own, producing impressive packages in Autocoro quality in all package sizes up to 320mm in diameter. The BD 7 reduces spinning costs and increases profitability by optimized, reduced energy consumption, rapid take-up speeds on all lengths and an improved space utilisation. 86
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Winding machines from Schlafhorst: Benchmark for winding efficiency. 2.5 million delivered Autoconer winding units – this unparalleled record in the sector sends a clear message: the Autoconer is the synonym for efficient package winding for more than 50 years. The Autoconer 6 with E³ sets now again standards regarding energy, economics and ergonomics. Additionally with its quality packages and leading automation solutions the Autoconer offers measurable benefits both during winding and in downstream processing. Innovations such as LaunchControl, SmartCycle, SmartJet or Eco-Drum-Drive system as well as intelligent sensor technology, smart process control and autocalibration functions have proven their worth in textile practice.
SUN – SERVICE UNLIMITED With the innovative SUN - SERVICE UNLIMITED service concept, Schlafhorst and Zinser offer their customers support in their day-to-day operations that is unmatched by any other manufacturer. Over 500 service staff in 20 service stations and 3 technology centres advise customers all over the world with regard to productivity and quality increases as well as energy savings. Intelligent life cycle management means that our service experts support customers proactively with preventive maintenance. Clever updates and upgrades provide solutions for integrating new technical features into existing machinery. The e-commerce platform SECOS 2.0 guarantees minimum response times in the delivery of original spare parts. And in SUN-PLAN Schlafhorst has developed a service concept that is unique within the textile industry: Individual service at a fixed price.
Saurer Allma Volkmann Allma Volkmann – Setting new benchmarks with Saurer E³ technology. Allma and Volkmann are the world’s leading manufacturers of twisting and cabling machines and will be presenting the CompactTwister – High-performance Two-for-One twisting machine for staple fibre yarns, and the CableCorder CC4 – Direct cabling machine for high quality tire cord. Both products are characterized by low energy consumption, high economic efficiency and machine productivity as well as high operating convenience and have been certified with the Saurer E³ label for their triple added value. Visitors will be also informed about innovative products and solutions in the companies’ other segments: carpet yarns, industrial yarns and glass filament yarns. 87
Saurer Embroidery Saurer Embroidery – The shuttle embroidery benchmark. Saurer Embroidery presents the latest innovative embroidery system Epoca 7, which impresses with its increase in productivity and its embroidery speed of up to 700 RPM. The setting options of the ‘pro’ version are unique and encompass new technologies on the needle side such as an individually controlled thread guide and thread delivery. Thus, embroidery technology has been reinvented and fulfills future market demands. The new thread monitors and the new thread-cut guarantee trouble-free production of high quality embroidery. The Epoca 7 has been awarded the E³ label for triple added value: - Maximum productivity and speed - Premium embroidery quality and technology - Complete reliability
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Sustainable Products
A new generation of
rPET based industrial yarns Discover industrial yarns based on recycled polymer made from post consumer and industrial plastics. For industries that want to keep up with the increasing demands from customers with a sustainable lifestyle.
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MOPET-r Yarn 4735T Light-blue
“
“Give your light-blue PET bottle a new life. Morssinkhof Sustainable Products will turn it into rPET yarns that can be recycled over and over again. This is our contribution to a circular economy.”
Properties Linear density (nominal)
Filaments
Linear density
Breaking force
Breaking tenacity
Elongation at break
EASF
HAS 2 min. 180° C
dtex
#
dtex
N
mN/tex
%
% (xN)
%
1100 1670 2200 3300
210 210 210 420
1116 1691 2231 3328
87.3 129.9 172.2 254.9
782 768 772 766
12.9 13.7 14.1 14.3
6.3 (45N) 6.8 (68N) 6.7 (90N) 7.4 (135N)
5.9 5.2 5.6 5.5
Light-blue rPET industrial yarn properties Would you like to develop an industrial yarn with properties that are not mentioned in this brochure? YARNS Contact us. 90
High product quality and a better world can go together At Morssinkhof Sustainable Products we believe industrial progress is important, but the wellbeing of our world is essential. We contribute by converting used plastics into recycled PET based industrial yarns (rPET). High quality and sustainability can go well together. Just use rPET based industrial yarn. Morssinkhof Sustainable Products is part of the Morssinkhof Rymoplast Group, one of Europe’s largest producers of high grade recycled raw materials. Our company serves the European market, ranging from small companies in the plastic processing industry to the world’s largest multinational corporations.
About
91
MOPET-r Yarn 4855T Clear
“
“rPET based yarn contributes to a lower carbon footprint of your products, making them more sustainable and environmentally friendly compared to virgin PET yarn.”
Properties Linear density (nominal)
Filaments
Linear density
Breaking force
Breaking tenacity
Elongation at break
EASF
HAS 2 min. 180° C
dtex
#
dtex
N
mN/tex
%
% (xN)
%
1100 1670 2200 3300
210 210 210 420
1115 1685 2220 3310
90.5 132.3 172.7 260.2
812 785 778 786
11.0 11.7 11.9 12.4
5.0 (45N) 5.8 (68N) 5.8 (90N) 6.6 (135N)
8.0 7.5 8.1 7.7
Clear rPET industrial yarn properties Would you like to develop an industrial yarn with properties that are not mentioned in this brochure? YARNSus. 92 Contact
MOPET-r Yarn 4835T Clear
“
“By using clear rPET industrial yarn you automatically contribute to sustainable entrepreneurship. Join the new standard.”
Properties Linear density (nominal)
Filaments
Linear density
Breaking force
Breaking tenacity
Elongation at break
EASF
HAS 2 min. 180° C
dtex
#
dtex
N
mN/tex
%
% (xN)
%
1100 1670 2200 3300
210 210 210 420
1118 1688 2238 3324
84.3 124.1 164.7 244.1
754 735 736 734
13.8 14.9 15.1 15.5
6.6 (45N) 7.1 (68N) 7.2 (90N) 8.0 (135N)
5.3 4.4 5.1 5.0
Clear rPET industrial yarn properties Would you like to develop an industrial yarn with properties that are not mentioned in this brochure? Contact us. 93
MOPET-r Yarn 4635T Green
“
“Today’s consumers like products that are made in a sustainable way and are friendly to the environment. rPET fits the lifestyle of the next generation.”
Properties Linear density (nominal)
Filaments
Linear density
Breaking force
Breaking tenacity
Elongation at break
EASF
HAS 2 min. 180° C
dtex
#
dtex
N
mN/tex
%
% (xN)
%
1100 1670 2200 3300
210 210 210 420
1128 1698 2234 3318
82.5 122.1 161.7 236.9
731 719 724 714
13.9 14.7 14.9 15.2
6.9 (45N) 7.5 (68N) 7.6 (90N) 8.2 (135N)
5.0 4.4 5.1 5.0
Green rPET industrial yarn properties Would you like to develop an industrial yarn with properties that are not mentioned in this brochure? YARNS 94 Contact us.
MOPET-r Yarn 4535T Black
“
“Black rPET industrial yarn is made from recycled PET polymer. This polymer originates from several post consumer and industrial sources.”
Properties Linear density (nominal)
Filaments
Linear density
Breaking force
Breaking tenacity
Elongation at break
EASF
HAS 2 min. 180° C
dtex
#
dtex
N
mN/tex
%
% (xN)
%
1100 1670 2200 3300
210 210 210 420
1129 1692 2228 3326
78.6 114.2 149.4 222.2
696 675 670 668
12.8 13.7 13.4 14.1
7.0 (45N) 7.6 (68N) 7.5 (90N) 8.5 (135N)
5.1 4.5 5.6 5.2
Black rPET industrial yarn properties Would you like to develop an industrial yarn with properties that are not mentioned in this brochure? 95 Contact us.
agenda 96
YARNS
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