FALL 2020
Fully Fauquier Apps to aperitifs: We’ve pulled together everything the county has to feed your needs
Inside
• Feast on the best of the region • Farm to fork • Furniture fix
Classic cocktails with a twist: Stocking your bar with local everything
Not that kind of Moon Shine Modern farmsteading stays close to home FALL 2020
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Dedicated Compassionate Compassionate Selfless Dedicated Dedicated Compassionate Selfless Selfless Dedicated Here’s to our healthcare heroes, answering the call to serve in
Here’s to our healthcare heroes, unprecedented times. Their enduring
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commitment is inspiring our community as we are all times. in thisTheir together. #SENTARAHEROES unprecedented enduring as we are all in this together.
commitment is inspiring our community
We are forever grateful for your #SENTARAHEROES as we are all in this together.
service on behalf of our patients #SENTARAHEROES We community. are forever grateful for your and #SENTARAHEROES
We are on forever grateful your service behalf of ourfor patients We are forever grateful your service on behalf offor our patients and community. service on behalf of our patients
and community. Share your thanks, and community.
appreciation and encouragement Share your thanks, Share your thanks, appreciation and encouragement Share your thanks,
for our Sentara Heroes at SentaraHeroes.com
appreciation encouragement for our Sentara Heroes at appreciation andand encouragement for Sentara Heroes at at forour our Sentara Heroes SentaraHeroes.com SentaraHeroes.com SentaraHeroes.com
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FALL 2020
IN THE
Fall 2020 – Fully Fauquier
17 LIFE & STYLE
18 FACES & PLACES
14 Meet the makers at Moon Shine Mountain Farm 16 Fall planting for spring blooming 17 Expert guidance for your floral arrangements
18 This Fox has your fix 19 Celebrate the season 21 Fauquier Livestock Exchange barely missed a beat 22 Kindergarten genius, Mary Stright
30 FARE & FLARE 24 Table setting is a breeze with these 27 A squash for autumn 30 Classic cocktails 31 And local brews 34 And local wines
EXTRAS
ON THE COVER
■ ■ ■ ■
The theme -- “Everything You Need is Right Here” -made an easy connection for photographer Randy Litzinger with his cover assignment. He says he knew Moon Shine Mountain Farm in Marshall would be perfect to illustrate the food production nirvana that is Fauquier County For the cover shoot, Randy saw it setting up: “Poppy Stinson was sitting on the ground in blue jeans, and a baseball cap, backlit by sunlight coming over the trees on top of the mountain between Marshall and Hume, her joy and peace of being in the setting was evident. She was completely oblivious that a photographer was near her as she enjoyed the baby chicks. “One particular little chick with a strong personality gave me a look right into the camera signalling that he, like Norma Desmond in Sunset Boulevard, was ‘ready for a close-up.’ “It just reminded me that probably Fauquier is best appreciated by sitting on the ground and not worrying if your shoes and pants get dirty,” Randy points out. “My favorite shot is of Poppy with so many chicks they won’t fit in her hands -they’re spilling over onto her knees and legs. Kind of like living here in Fauquier County. You’ve got all you want, and more, right here.”
Welcome to autumn ........................... 6 County tidbits .................................... 8 What they say .................................. 21 The last word ................................... 38
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36 UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED PHOTOS AND STORIES BY BETSY BURKE PARKER
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Editor’s query: What’s on the autumn menu, writers? Published quarterly by Piedmont Media Address 41 Culpeper Street Warrenton, VA 20186 Phone: 540-347-4222 Fax: 540-349-8676 Publisher: Catherine M. Nelson cnelson@fauquier.com Editor: Betsy Burke Parker betsyburkeparker@gmail.com Managing editor: Robin Earl rearl@fauquier.com Advertising Call 540-347-4222 Consultants: Anthony Haugan ahaugan@fauquier.com Jeanne Cobert jcobert@fauquier.com Nancy Keyser nkeyser@fauquier.com Tony Ford tford@fauquier.com Suzanne Jarowey sjarowey@fauquier.com Design Production designer: Sawyer Guinn sguinn@fauquier.com Ad designers: Vincent Sales vsales@fauquier.com Annamaria Ward award@fauquier.com
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High school student and budding author Olivia Hatcher is motivated by the most classic of comfort foods: homemade chocolate chip cookies, warm from the oven. “We get lazy sometimes and don’t actually make it from scratch,” she admits. “But the best part is being able to watch a movie and smell cookies ready in the oven. Heaven.” Teacher and writer Vineeta Ribeiro says, during quarantine, she’s “not had any single go-to comfort food, because all of the food in the house seemingly developed its own legs, and came directly to her for comfort.” Chicken curry, chili made with turkey, cookies by the dozen were some of her variety cravings. Editor Betsy Burke Parker has long used vegetables, fruit bushes and perennial herbs as part of the foundation planting around her Flint Hill house. Counting freezer stores, homecanned garden goodies and bacon seeds in the pigpen out back, she figures she could have survived the lockdown for many, many months without going to a grocery store. “I would have gone for sugar and coffee, eventually, but everything else was right here.”
When designer Sawyer Guinn was young, his brother told him a squash casserole he was eyeing warily was actually “whitefish” so it would appeal to his carnivorous tastes. To this day, he says “whitefish” casserole remains a holiday family meal mainstay. New York City-based editor-writer Steve Price takes full advantage of a year-round weekly neighborhood farmers market for fresh fruits and vegetables. But when it’s time to retreat into a lunch or supper of dubious nutritional value, “make mine stovetop-grilled Hebrew National or Nathan’s hot dogs with mustard and relish on toasted rolls,” he says. “Heinz baked beans, cole slaw, all washed down with a Belgian wheat beer.” Beer expert, teacher and tour guide John Daum says he “always enjoys a tasty ale with a fresh pretzel from Nordic Knots in Reston. It is the perfect pairing especially if you throw in some local cheese to bring it all together.” Freelance writer and designer Mara Seaforest says she loves autumn, so it’s no surprise that her no. 1 seasonal comfort food is ripening on the vine right now. “Give me pumpkins: stuffed with veggies and roasted, or baked into a spicy pie like mummy made. Oh, that’s cozy!” Food writer and restaurant critic Sandy Greeley points to her personal motto – “use farm-fresh vegetables and meats to support all the local farmers who provide us food” – as especially pertinent this socially distant year when dining in has replaced dining out.
Freelance photographer Randy Litzinger found he has peculiar tastes when it came to pandemic comfort food. “My go-to snacks lately have been Fig Newtons, and, strangely enough, bowls of Raisin Bran with almond milk. (Plus), toasted cheese with tomato basil soup.” (And yes, he says, he calls it “toasted,” not grilled, because of his upbringing in western Pennsylvania.) Writer Coy Ferrell had a classic pandemic reaction – he joined a produce-sharing coop this spring. Every week, he gets a new shipment of vegetables and fruit. With “a lot of help from the internet,” he says, he “turns them into something edible like sautéd zucchini or stir-fried chard.” Writer Alissa Jones has two grown children and three grandchildren. She says the pull to childhood comfort foods has been strong over the past few months. Besides the family’s Portuguese and Italian dishes, she says her own mother’s creative way of cooking vegetables is carrying her happily into autumn with a view to eating more healthy this season. Local veterinarian Dr. Amanda Gray finds her comfort in breakfast food - “crepes, bacon, toaster strudel. “Or Cinnamon Toast Crunch at midnight.” Middleburg photographer Chris Cerrone acknowledges that his tastes during lockdown have skewed a little odd. Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches were a staple, he says, along with key lime pie. Not necessarily eaten together, but there were a few days back in the summer, he agrees, that called for all the comfort he could get.
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PHOTO BY CHRIS CERRONE
Deciding what’s important These days, remember, you really can find everything you need, right here It started, as these things do, with a simple idea. I was considering an open-faced tomato sandwich. A tomato from my home garden, plump and heavy and dewy, sliced on a piece of COVID-19 sourdough bread I’d baked the day before. Flanking it was a fluffy, steaming heap of scrambled eggs, hyper-local from the coop out back. As I dug in, I paused to consider the simple fact that everything in my lunch had come from within 30 feet of where I sat. Okay, the flour for the bread came from Costco, as did the flax seed in the bread, but you get the picture.
“
You can’t buy happiness. But you can buy local. And that’s kinda the same thing. – Unkown
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valuable In this year of corona, having everything we need nearby has become critical. The fall issue theme was a no-brainer at that point. A Fauquier Fall Feast, with everything gathered from in-county. As I munched, I thought of the story assignments – everything from salad (fall greens) to bread (homebaked) to protein (locally and sustainably raised) to dessert (local and delicious) could fall under the mission statement. Even the wine and beer and spirits can be local in my Fall Feast, I decided, the floral arrangement on the table. Heck, even the table itself. The writing and photo team ate up the idea, digging deep to find Morrisville’s Edward Fox busy at his Fox Wood Works repairing yet another wobbly dining table, and to dig up the story of how a local vintner takes it from vine to wine. We learned about how the Fauquier Livestock Exchange is handling the new normal (hint – they’re offering more sales than ever), and we hear about designing your own autumn celebration to discover to a more natural rhythm. Even our guest Last Word author got into the swing of the season, offering locally homebaked goodness for the pets in your life. Welcome to fall.
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COUNTY TIDBITS Where’s the beef? (It’s here, and it’s always been here.)
The Fauquier Community Food Bank and Lakota Ranch in Remington are part of a pilot program funded by the Piedmont Environmental Council to conTIMES STAFF PHOTO/COY FERRELL nect regional Ground beef from Lakota Ranch cattle farms to was delivered in one-pound area food banks. packages to the Fauquier The beef proCommunity Food Bank July 1. gram is based on similar PEC efforts to purchase milk from a northern Virginia dairy cooperative on behalf of local food banks. The dairy program started with a $5,000 grant from the PATH Foundation and private donations. “We couldn’t do this without this community. We wouldn’t be here,” food bank director Sharon Ames told the Fauquier Times. “It’s getting healthy food in [clients’] hands. … Not only are we taking care of the people who are hungry, it’s healthy. It’s not empty calories. “It’s absolutely a godsend.” “If all goes well, with more than 60 beef farmers in our nine-county region, our goal is to match as many farmers as are interested with their nearest local food pantry, to provide about 400 to 450 pounds of meat per month to each pantry,” Coyle said in a press release. “Lakota Ranch, which had previously subsidized beef for a Madison County food pantry, heard about the dairy initiative and approached us to see if there might be a similar need for beef. The answer was a resounding ‘yes.’” “We saw the initiative that PEC was doing with the milk and we were inspired to get involved,” said Jeremy Engh, who owns Lakota Ranch with his wife, Jill. The Enghs’ operation includes about 450 cows, many of which are raised on leased farmland in the area. All of the beef produced by Lakota is grass-fed and organic. Jill Engh said that pandemic caused an increased demand for their product. “They realize that supporting small businesses and small farms is important,” she said, adding that concerns about the food supply chain have also caused some consumers to explore local options for purchasing food. “We’re just happy to be involved and grateful to the food bank and PEC for what they are doing,” Jeremy Engh added.
A new way to look at an old idea – A cover crop that feeds our needs
The garden plots at Warrenton’s Fauquier Education Farm usually get overseeded with cover crops for winter — crimson clover, hairy betch and annual rye. The fast-growing plants hold the loose soil together to prevent erosion and capture and fix nitrogen for next spring’s plantings, according to farm director Jim Hankins. This fall, the fields look a little different. Hankins collaborated with Vint Hill food storage facility 4P Foods to plant and store nearly 6,000 cabbage plants that serve the same cover crop purposes, but also produce an edible byproduct at the same time. Cold-storage provided for free by 4P allows FEF to
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October is: Adopt a shelter dog month Breast cancer awareness month Clergy appreciation month Country ham month National diabetes month National pizza month
November is: Native American Heritage month Model railroad month Peanut butter lovers month Adoption awareness month
December is: Spiritual literacy month Bingo month supply food banks with many more weeks of fresh foods. In addition to the cabbage, FEF volunteers also sowed fall crops of broccoli, cauliflower and kale. Hankin said in a late summer press release that a harvest of 10,000 pounds of cabbage wasn’t out of the question because of the excellent growing conditions this year. The education farm was created in 2010. The program donates its entire harvest to food banks in Fauquier, Rappahannock and Prince William counties. In 2019, FEF harvested 51,250 pounds of produce from seven acres under cultivation. fauquiereducationfarm.org
Whiffletree – They’ve got milk
Warrenton’s own Whiffletree Farm is offering local, organic, 100% grass-fed, cream-line nonhomoginized whole milk for sale from dairy farmer Wayne Beery of Dayton. Beery milks 35-45 cows, and also produces raw cheeses for Whiffletree. Whiffletree owner Jesse Straight explains that the “lightly pasteurized” milk is a legal sale in Virginia; fully raw milk – unpasteurized – is not legal for sale in the commonwealth unless through a herdshare program. Whiffletreefarmva.com
Size does matter (when it comes to farms)
According to the most recent Department of Agriculture census, the average Fauquier County farm is 188 acres. The county has 1,154 farms totalling 417,000 acres with annual sales of $54.8 million. This places Fauquier 16th among Virginia’s 98 counties for ag production. Crops account for 40 percent of Fauquier farm sales, with livestock, poultry and other products making up the rest. USDA conducts a farm census every five years. nass.usda.gov
Cows, carbon and climate – making the triple play for a win-win-win
Farmers and foresters play a huge role in producing precious carbon to sustain a healthy planet. Bipartisan bills currently in the U.S. Senate and House would create incentives for farmers and foresters to receive credits for reducing greenhouse gas emis-
Wondering about your water? Find out here
Virginia Cooperative Extension is offering testing for well, spring and cistern water. Area residents can do drive-by pick-up of their test kits from 4 to 6 p.m. Oct. 7 at the Fauquier County Extension office in Warrenton. The testing program is co-sponsored by Culpeper Soil and Water Conservation District and John Marshall Soil and Water Conservation District. tinyurl.com/CulpeperVCEwelltesting2020 sions and increasing soil organic matter – carbon. The “Growing Climate Solutions Act” allows the Department of Agriculture to develop programs for greenhouse gas reductions and carbon sequestration. This bipartisan legislation was introduced on the House side by Virginia Rep. Abigail Spanberger, a Democrat, and Don Bacon, a Republican from Nebraska. Trees, flowers, grasses – and crops – literally take carbon out of the atmosphere via sequestration, store it and transfer it to the soil. Sustainably raised livestock play a key role in carbon sequestration, as grazing cattle and other livestock are essentially mobile carbon sequestration enhancers and fertilizer factories as they eat, digest and return carbon-laden plant material back to the soil. U.S. farmland can sequester 650 million metric tons of carbon dioxide each year, offsetting 11 percent of America’s greenhouse gas emissions, according to a report from the Soil Science Society of America. The Growing Climate Solutions Act is supported by a wide range of farm, environment and industry organizations including the Virginia Farm Bureau Federation, the Virginia Agribusiness Council, United States Cattleman’s Association, Nature Conservancy, National Wildlife Federation, Virginia League of Conservation Voters and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. congress.gov
How they’re winning the slow, but steady, race to protect the Eastern box turtle
They can live 100 years or more in the wild, but the eastern box turtle is in trouble, according to the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources. The DWR and VirginPHOTO BY CHRIS CERRONE ia Herpetological Society have launched the Eastern Box Turtle Census Project to get a handle on the numbers. Eastern box turtles are found across Virginia; they live in wooded areas or areas with plant cover. The census project will monitor population, create distribution maps and determine strategies to help the species thrive. Humans present threats in various ways. Vehicle strikes are one, plus pesticides and environmental threats impact turtle numbers. Because eastern box turtles can not move very quickly, they are easy for people to capture and take home as pets. However, wildlife experts warn once
COUNTY TIDBITS
4-H helping hands mobilize to feed the community Poultry Service Learning Project yields more than protein for 4-H Fauquier County 4-H’s Poultry Service Learning Project allowed local club members to raise chickens for local food banks; earlier this spring, some 30 members received layers and broilers sponsored by the Northern Piedmont Community Foundation and American Heritage Farm. Not only did COVID-19 not cancel the project, says extension agent Lenah Nguyen, it made it more critical to the community. “This is the perfect project for this weird time we are in,” Nguyen said in a release. “We can do this project while social distancing, raising food for those in need and teaching essential life skills.” Nguyen and PATH foundation’s Kirsten Dueck arranged project expansion thanks to a $10,500 grant to purchase more chickens and add beef eastern box turtles are placed in captivity for an extended period, they lose their ability to survive in the wild. virginiaherpetologicalsociety.com
PEC recognized as ‘best’ for environmental excellence Gov. Ralph Northam released winners of the 2020 Governor’s Environmental Excellence Awards, which recognize innovative projects that improve Virginia’s environment. Based on criteria including environmental benefit, stakeholder involvement, public outreach, transferability and innovativeness, 12 winners – six gold, two silver and four bronze – as well as one honorable mention were recognized. The Fauquier-based Piedmont Environmental Council was recognized for their work at Roundabout Meadows on the Fauquier, Loudoun and Prince William County line. Partners have worked together more than 20 years to preserve 326-acres at Gilberts Corner as a gateway to protected and open countryside. The productive farm donates food and management practices to improve water quality and educational programs.
Recognizing the ‘great’ in the Great Outdoors Act
and lamb operations. More than 50 club members are expected to contribute 3,200 dozen eggs and nearly a thousand pounds of meat to Fauquier Food Bank, Fauquier FISH, Rappahannock Food Pantry and Community Cooks this fall. Youth involved in livestock projects raise the animals and track the projects with 4-H record books. Zach Romine, 10, got involved with laying hens. “My favorite part in this project so far was when a chicken laid the tiniest egg ever,” he told a Fauquier Times reporter. “It was so much smaller than the other eggs and I learned that it’s called a fairy egg. It usually happens when chickens first start laying.” Feeding America data indicates Fauquier County is of the most food-secure counties in Virginia with a food insecure population of 6.2 percent – less than half the state average.
Looking skyward at Sky Meadows The Sky Meadows State Park near Paris has an array of socially distanced outdoor activities planned this fall. • Sept. 26 – National Public Lands Day • Oct. 17 – Astronomy for Everyone • Nov. 1 – Fall Wild Edible Plants: Earth Connection Series • Nov. 14 – Astronomy for Everyone • Dec. 6 – Surviving Through History: Earth Connection Series • Dec. 12 – Astronomy for Everyone dcr.virginia.gov
Free soil testing Thanks to a grant from the Chesapeake Bay Restoration Fund, the local Culpeper Soil and Water Conservation District is offering free soil tests for area landowners. The goal of testing is to better inform property owners on the use of fertilizer and other soil amendments for healthier land and cleaner water. culpeperswcd.org
Virginia ninth in the nation for number of farmers markets
The Great American Outdoors Act overwhelmingly Only eight states have more passed Congress earlier this farmers markets than Virginia, year to guarantee $900 milaccording to ratings released PHOTO BY CHRIS CERRONE lion in funding the Land and by the U.S. Department of Water Conservation Fund. The man who invented the Agriculture. The Appalachian Trail – hamburger was smart; the There are some 250 which passes through northman who invented the farmers markets in Virginia, ern Fauquier – is one of many including three in Fauquier cheeseburger was a genius. outdoor recreation attractions ~ Matthew McConaughey County. that benefits from the fund. More are in California, New Though the fund has York, Michigan, Ohio, Illinois, Massachusetts, Pennexisted since 1965, much of the money going into sylvania and Wisconsin. it each year has been shifted into other federal There are more than 8,200 farmers markets budgets. The intended use of the fund is to acquire and maintain local and national parks, trails, historic nationwide. What the USDA numbers don't take into acsites and other outdoor spaces for public recreation.
count are on-farm sales – many Fauquier farms are pick-your-own, nor do they take into account CSAs, or community supported agriculture. In addition, many country stores and markets offer some fresh produce by immediate neighbors. If you want more hands-on foraging, still at a social distance, check out the fall crops available at a number of pick-your-own farms dotting the county. Pick-your-own • Hartland Orchard Markham 540-364-2316 hartlandorchard.com • Hollin Farms Delaplane 540-592-3701 hollinfarms.com • Seven Oaks Lavender Farm Catlett 540-272-7839 sevenoakslavenderfarm.com • Stribling Orchard Markham 540-364-3040 striblingorchard.com • Valley View Farm and Orchard Delaplane valleyviewfarmva.com • Apple Manor Farm Markham 571-296-3787 applemanorfarm.com Farmers markets • Archwood Green Barns The Plains Sundays through November • Buckland Farm Market New Baltimore Year-round • Messick’s Farm Market Catlett Year-round
• Warrenton Farmers Market Wednesdays and Saturdays through November Covering your bases (with cover crops) The John Marshall Soil and Water Conservation District is offering financial incentives for the 2020 cover crop program. Planting small grain cover crops like winter rye, wheat or barley helps reduce erosion, prevent nutrient loss and improve soil health during fall and winter. 540-347-3120 FALL 2020
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Start your day with a coffee, finish your day with a decaf – so many choices From chains to independent shops, the choices for after-dinner (and prebreakfast) coffee in Fauquier County are varied. Start at the north end – Common Grounds and Cuppa Giddy Up prop up each end of Middleburg’s main drag. Head to The Plains for a sip at Happy Creek Coffee and Tea or the Crest Hill Tea Room before checking the county’s eastern edge for a cup at Vint Hill Coffee. The Corner Deli and Andes in Remington at Fauquier’s southern reaches complete the coffee circuit before heading back to central Warrenton to explore the flavors at Red Truck, Gateau, Great Harvest and Deja Brew – and that’s just downtown. For the latest entries in the closing act for your
West Main Coffee just opened in Marshall at the old Cordial Coffee and Little Foxes Coffee location. Gabrielle Potter says locally roasted beans make all the difference. A steady flow of patrons verifies the assessment. caffeine-fueled tour of the county, try Marshall, where two coffee shops now bookend Main Street. Hunt Country Coffee is at the east end of town, with West Main Coffee at the west end in the old Cordial Coffee, and, later, Little Foxes
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FALL 2020
Coffee, location. West Main opened in the space a few months ago, with a mix of the expected favorites on the menu along with the personal twists from the new ownership.
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A personal, lifetime feast Decades later, still trying to recreate grandmother’s delicious apple strudel
She’s not the first one to get creative in the kitchen, but Marilyn Mackay-Smith, left, and daughter Caroline Leake, have perfected their so-called ‘garbage soup’ through decades of practice and experimentation. It’s one of writer Steve Price’s fondest fal memories of the Virginia Piedmont -- dining on hot soup served with a Blue Ridge view.
By Steve Price The early 20th-century French author and critic Marcel Proust began his novel Swann’s Way with the recollection of tasting a madeleine cookie dipped into a cup of tea. The memory was so intense that he was inspired to write the sevenvolume Remembrances Of Times Past. Although few of us would be similarly motivated, there no denying that the aroma and taste of certain food and drink carries us back to earlier fond times and experiences. I recently had such a moment of clarity. The neighborhood where I live was once the middle-European (primarily German) section of Manhattan with lots of authentic, ethnic restaurants, cafes and pastry shops. In the window of one of the very few remaining bakeries was a tray of layered pastry known as strudel. I bought one, ate it on the way home and was immediately transported back to my grandmother’s kitchen. It was like a time warp in miniature. As a youngster during the 1940s I loved to visit her boarding house’s kitchen with its multi-compartment coal stove. One section was for baking, and there was nothing better to watch Grandma Anne roll out parchment-thin sheets of flour and water, then layer the sheets with sliced apples, raisins, cinnamon, and sugar, and then put the piled layers into the oven. Out would emerge a crisp, savory and thoroughly delicious dessert. Another childhood memory comes surging back whenever I walk along Delancey Street on the Lower East Side. Katz’s Delicatessen, best known as the scene of When Harry Met Sally’s “I’ll have what she’s having,” always has a long line of customers waiting for the signature pastrami. The garlicky smell of cold cuts blends with the pungent briny aroma of pickles and other deli goodies that waft out the front door take me back to a time before cholesterol and cardiology were invented and we ate whatever and how much we wished to – or so we thought – our heart’s content. Several fishing trips took me to Lake of the Woods in western Ontario. Although it was mostly catchand-release, our guides made sure we kept a few pickerel or northern pike for lunch. We’d clamber ashore at spots that had permanent fireplaces and when the burning wood became charcoal, the guide, who fileted our catch, then sautéed the fish in Crisco along with sliced onions and potatoes. The simile that best describes freshly caught fish that had subsisted on pure protein (as opposed to farmed-fish grain pellet) and lived in crystalline waters, especially when cooked and consumed in fresh air and amid glorious surroundings, is quite simply “sweet as candy.” A book that I wrote about the Budweiser Clydesdales required several trips to Anheuser-Busch’s headquarters in St. Louis. My final trip included an interview with August Anheuser Busch Jr. That morning I was ushered into the Busch family mansion’s den where sat the 83-year-old retired chairman of the
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board and various corporate dignitaries. It was a ceremonial occasion, and I asked questions that allowed Mr. Busch to speak at length about his association with horses in general (he was an avid polo player, foxhunter and carriage “whip” in his youth) and the Clydesdales in particular. As if on cue, a servant entered as the patriarch finished his reminiscences. “The Bud is here, Mr. B.” I had been told two things before the meeting. The first is that a keg of freshly made Budweiser was delivered every morning. The second, and far more important, the contents were always to be referred to by its name. “Beer” could be any brand, but there was only one Budweiser. “All right, who wants a Bud? Mr. B asked in his growly voice. Although 11 in the morning was on the early side for a schooner of suds, I couldn’t resist. Accepting a glass of Budweiser from the hand of August A. Busch Jr. was as close as I’d come to, say, accepting a glass of Chateau Lafitte from Baron Rothschild himself. If you’ve ever tasted freshly brewed beer or ale (sorry, Mr. B, but any brand), you know it bears very little resemblance to what comes out of a can or bottle. As for me, I can’t see or hear a Budweiser ad or commercial product without recalling that crisp sparkling taste. Speaking of crisp and sparkling, during my early adulthood, parents of a friend owned commercial apple orchards in Vermont. They also bred and raised Morgan horses. One Columbus Day week when fall foliage was at its peak in that part of the world, I joined the family and friends on a long trail ride through the Green Mountains. Maples and birches were ablaze in red, orange, and yellows, and the brilliant colors combined with the sound of hooves swishing through fallen leaves to create a multi-sensual experience. But as much as I remember that, my memory still carries the post-ride tangy taste of apple butter spread on fresh sourdough bread washed down with homemade cider made from my host’s crop of Golden Delicious, McIntosh and Jonathan apples on that equally crisp and sparkling autumn day. Think back to your own gastronomic reminiscences. And when you do, as Marcel Proust would have wished you: happy memories and bon appetite.
Apple strudel
*Author’s note: This is not my grandmother’s labor-intensive strudel, but it tastes just like it. Serves 6
Ingredients
• 2 - 3 apples peeled and thinly sliced • 2 tablespoons sugar
Delicious, nutritious ‘garbage soup’
Among my fondest memories were 1970s visits to Alex and Marilyn Mackay-Smith’s farm. Nothing beats a trip to Virginia in the autumn. I was never certain what would be on the agenda, but one thing on which I could count was a steaming bowl of Marilyn’s legendary Garbage Soup. I was before never, quite certain of what would be in the soup, for that matter. Granted, the name may be off-putting, but the dish never was. As family friend Martha Caper, recalled, “Garbage Soup was the soup you always wanted to eat. You just never wanted to see it cooking.” According to Marilyn’s daughter Leslie Treviranus Shepherd, there never a fixed recipe. “The stockpot was always on the stove. When we would rise from the table after a meal, Mummy would look at the leftovers in the serving bowls and plates and say, ‘throw it in the soup.’ “We added leftovers that we weren’t going to use another time or something out of the fridge that needed to be used up, such as a container of leftover peas. We would also scoop out the ends of casseroles if they had anything left in them. “At last, Mummy would say – in her phrase, ‘boil the h--- out of it’.” In an effort to recreate Garbage Soup, Leslie suggested theses do’s and don’ts: • Do add cooked or uncooked vegetables (cook longer if there are uncooked additions). Not more than one cup per pot of cooked starchy limas, kidneys or pintos beans. Not more than one cup per pot of cooked rice, noodles, or couscous. • Do add cooked meat and poultry. • Don’t forget to cut everything in bite-sized pieces. • Don’t use potatoes, cheese, asparagus, artichokes, pickles, olives, lemon juice, eggs, fish, shrimp, nuts, grits, bread, oatmeal, fruit or anything sweet. • Do cover with homemade or commercial chicken broth. Boil, then reduce to simmer. • Don’t add herbs and spices until after the boil. • Do add salt and pepper to taste. • Do add milk, half-and-half or heavy cream for a creamy soup. • Do garnish with sour cream, croutons, or cheese. A dash of sherry will enhance the flavor. • 1 tablespoon flour • ¼ cup raisins • 1 egg • 1 tablespoon water • Shortening and flour for cookie sheet and rolling area • Confectioner's sugar
Directions
• Preheat oven to 375°F • Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper, then cover with shortening and sprinkle with flour • Mix together apple slices, sugar, flour, raisins in a bowl • Roll dough on a floured surface until about 12" x 16" • Put the apple mixture on the bottom half of the long side of the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border around the outside. Fold in the short sides and then roll up like a jelly roll • Place strudel on baking sheet with the seam side down. Mix egg and water and brush on the strudel • Cut ¼-inch deep slashes diagonally across top. • Bake for 35 - 40 minutes or until golden brown • Let cool before sprinkling with powdered sugar FALL 2020
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Life & Style THE WAY WE LIVE IN FAUQUIER
Story by Alissa Jones Photos by Randy Litzinger
Living large in the Free State • Meet the modern Moon Shiners – Carving out a piece of paradise high on a hill in Marshall • Artisan Edward Fox shares his tips for breathing life into fine wood furniture sometimes hundreds of years old
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Moon Shine Mountain Farm events
• Nichole and Daniel Stinson offer canning and pickling classes at their farm south of Marshall. • Farm tours are offered through the fall. • Children’s “fun farm days” can be arranged for family or socially-distanced groups of 4-8.
Conservation-minded
Moon Shine Mountain works in conjunction with the John Marshall Conservation District to fence their livestock out of Thumb Run that runs through their property. The incorporate rotational grazing, moving stock from pasture to pasture to minimize mowing and maximize forage growth.
moonshinemountainfarm.com
“My farm homestead is my therapy. There is nothing better for my soul than being outside taking in all God’s beauty.”
- NICHOLE STINSON
Nichole Stinson says she living her dream life at Moon Shine Mountain Farm, sharing her love of the outdoors, gardening, animal husbandry and farm life with her family and with her community.
Simple days, simple ways Meet the modern Moon Shiners: These homesteaders are serving up taste treats and a strong buy local, eat healthy message Learning to live with the land is an ongoing process for this farm family. Meet the Stinson clan of Marshall’s storied Free State region and hear how they’re taking it from farm to table, from pasture to processing, from the land to the hand, and everything in between. Tucked atop a mountain with a rich history of outlaw moonshining in the Free State area just south of Marshall are 34 acres devoted to something other than illegal alcohol. Daniel and Nichole Stinson give a nod to the re-
Poppy Stinson, left, labors alongside her mother, Nichole, in a garden bed at Moon Shine Mountain Farm near Marshall.
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gion in the name of the organic farm they created in 2012: Moon Shine Mountan Farm was carved out of their desire to live healthy and know what was going in their bodies. The Stinson’s and their children live on and tend every acre. “Our Farm started as a dream. The growth of Moon Shine Mountain Farm into a true farm, albeit a small one, has happened organically, pardon the pun.” chuckles Stinson. Nichole Stinson, who grew up in a HOA community in Maryland, says that through several trials and a few military tours, she and her husband
decided a life in the country would be best for them. It was that quest to go back to the earth, live and eat simpler and cleaner that fueled their passion to share with others what they have learned, are still learning, and what they call their, blessings. Stinson says between their natural lifestyle and the joy the animals bring, she and her family have been living the highest quality of life and cannot imagine doing it any other way. Moon Shine Mountain Farm began with a garden and a few chickens, but, as Stinson jokes, “Chickens are like potato chips, you can’t have just one!” Stinson says the farm is fun for kids of all ages and assures that the herd, which includes Dexter Cattle, sheep, ducks, geese, turkeys, and the chickens, or “ladies”, as she calls them, will come out and follow guests with or without treats. Produce grows year-round at the farm, with a Spring to Fall outdoor garden and a Greenhouse in the winter. The garden is vital in the Stinson’s goal of self-sustainability and a variety of fruits and vegetables are available depending on the season. Stinson says they focus as much as possible on heirloom vegetables and save their own seeds whenever they can. “Except squash,” admits Stinson, “funny enough, every time we try to grow squash, the squash bugs take over. I’ve resolved to buy it from another local farmer.” Canning is a huge part of what the Stinson’s do
A tale as old as time…
At the Stinson family’s Moon Shine Mountain Farm near Marshall, they live and work in a natural rhythm, one dictated by the seasons and the circular nature of the birth, life, death renewal cycle of an active stock farm. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” says Nichole Stinson. “Farming is not an exact science, it’s more like, organized chaos.” Timeline from farm to table for a beef burger: - Early fall: Dexter calves are born (from young heifers purchased from Dixie Meadows Farm. - March: Calves are weaned and left on a grass pasture to grow. Moon Shine beef is grass-fed and grass-finished. - 13 months later, usually in May: Processing at Fauquier’s Finest. The Stinsons typically keep one side for themselves and sell the rest under their Moon Shine Mountain label.
A taste of Fauquier fall:
Roasted pear and fig compote 4 firm-ripe Bartlett pears 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup apple juice 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon allspice 6 dried figs, quartered lengthwise 8 ounces plain yogurt (homemade or storebought) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/2 tablespoons superfine sugar Preheat oven to 425°. Halve the pears lengthwise and core them, then cut each half lengthwise into 3 wedges. In a large nonstick ovenproof skillet, cook the granulated sugar, apple juice and butter over moderate heat until the butter melts. Stir in the cinnamon and allspice. Stir in the pears and figs and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer the pears to the oven and roast for 25 minutes, or until tender. In a small bowl, whisk the yogurt with the vanilla and superfine sugar. Spoon the compote on plates. Serve warm or at room temperature with the yogurt sauce. at the farm and has revealed some of their culinary creativity. “We use what we believe to be unique flavor profiles to make our yummies even more yummy,” says Stinson, who is currently in the thick of the jelly; Strawberry Jalapeno, and Habanero Peach Jelly, that is. Pickles, Herb Jellies, and green beans are also on their list to be canned. “We want to help others learn affordable and easy ways to become self-sustainable and we want them to fall in love with farming and think outside the grocery store.” When asked if they provide weekend entertainment at the farm, Stinson jokes, “Actually, poultry are a good source of entertainment. It sounds weird, but they are quite captivating.” Stinson says they are not looking to be known for sipping hot cider by a fire pit in the fall, and providing entertainment, but are concerned that
visitors learn how to create the same haven they have, for themselves. The Moon Shine crew is hard at work preparing for the busy fall season, bringing in the last of the summer harvest, tending fall crops and making sure recently born chicks and lambs are safe as the weather turns cooler. On-farm sales are ramping up, with the Stinson clan stocking regular and special-order products daily. facebook.com/moonshinemountainfarm
Shopping list: Usually available at Moon Shine Mountain Farm Canned goods: • Pepper jellies: regular, peach, berry • Butters: Apple butter, “apple pie” butter, pumpkin butter, • Herb jellies: Basil peppercorn, mint, lemon-garlic-rosemary • Pickles: Old-fashioned lime, dill, squash pickles • Relishes: Sweet corn, red onion marmalade, spicy pickled radishes
Produce: • Spaghetti squash, acorn squash, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, kale, chard, lettuce blends, jalapeños, habaneros, Thai chili, sweet potatoes, Yukon and purple potatoes. • Potted fresh herbs for indoor use through winter
Dried herbs and teas: • Sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano • Herb blends • Specialty spicy salts • Habanero sugar • Tea blends for sleep, migraines, women’s health, seasonal cold support
Essential oils Animal products: • Beef
Rosemary • Lamb • Duck • Eggs (chicken and duck)
Quich and herb breads made to order For fun: • Poultry feathers • Farm crafts • Bird house gourds. FALL 2020
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PHOTO BY LEAH CHALDARES
Milkweed is celebrated for being a native pollinator plant but don’t underestimate it’s blossom when planning your garden.
Plant now, enjoy later A little effort this fall will pay off with early show of spring beauty Tough and tender at the same time, many spring flowers should be planted in autumn, after the first hard frost. So now is the perfect time to research, plan and shop. These are ideal socially-distanced activities that can be done alone, with family
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members nearby or with friends at a one-row’s width distance. • Become an educated consumer by attending field trips or visiting websites, like the Virginia Native Plant Society. • Test your soil and watch available sunlight over different times
of day and seasons to determine which wildflowers are best-suited for your growing conditions. • Remove existing grass, roots and weeds now. It should be easy, since the growing season is over, and root systems will yield to a firm tug. Turn the soil 8-12 inches, then augment with fall leaves and composted manure. • Select Virginia native plants that grow in this region, since they are naturally adapted to local soil and climate. VNPS has pamphlets – Wildflowers for Woodland Gardens and Regional Native Plant Nurseries. • Delay planting spring-bloomers until after the first hard frost this fall, since autumn’s variable temperatures could cause seeds to sprout too early if there is a warm spell. • Spread seed evenly over tilled soil. Avoid bare spots by broadcasting half the seed while walking in one direction, the other half after you turn around. • Lightly tamp seeds into the soil with your hand or foot. Don't rake or cover. • Add rocks or stepping stones to define your beds and pathways between them. • Wildflowers require minimal maintenance, other than weeding and occasional watering if there
aren't regular soaking rains. Many wildflowers are self-sowing perennials, so you may be good for years after one planting. • After the show in early spring, leave most of the spent wildflowers and leaves in your garden bed at season’s end. Decomposition provides valuable nutrients for the next year’s growth. • Native milkweed is critical to migrating monarch butterflies that fly to winter quarters in Mexico each fall. In cool, cloud-shrouded fir forests of Mexico’s central highlands, monarchs cling in clusters to tree branches, protected from the wind and awaiting spring. Late September is peak time to see migrating monarchs in northern Virginia. Monarchs are dwindling in numbers due to habitat loss and widespread herbicide use. On ag lands and along roadsides, the milkweed species that monarchs rely upon to feed their caterpillars are being depleted by herbicide spraying and roadside mowing. According to Monarch Watch, development eliminates 6,000 acres a day of monarch habitat. In 2005, the Monarch Waystation project was formed to encourage creation of monarch habitat, including planting milkweed. Seventy gardens in Virginia are registered as waystations. monarchwatch.org
Make a mess of your centerpiece Play by the design rules, says one local grower and expert party hostess, but the less structured and less fussy your flower arrangement, the more pleasing is the table focal point Kathryn Everett has a lot going on this fall season. Out in her garden, she can barely keep up with the growth from late summer rains and early fall warmth. The flowers are head-high, and the autumn vegetables she grows for chef Fabio Trabocchi’s Fiola in downtown Washington, D.C., are ripening on the vine in every row of her tiered beds at her family’s farm along the Rappahannock River near Hume. “I love proving you can do agriculture sustainably,” says Everett as she gathers flowers for a bouquet for a big family meal that night. “When we bought this farm in 2018, we wanted to work with the local ecology, make natural meadows, no herbicide, native landscapes. We’re part of a grassland bird study. “Everything is about sustainability and a natural landscape.” Everett says the home floral arrangement should stay native just as well. She snips a dahlia and some late zinnias along with three fronds of ornamental grass to bring to a big work table to create an informally formal bouquet. “That’s what you’re going for,” she says as she trims the bottoms of each flower stalk a second
time before artfully placing it in a vase. “Not fussy, but something that matches you and your décor and your personality.” There are a few rules of engagement when it comes to flower arrangements, especially for a dinner table, when seated conversation and food are vital to a party’s success. 1. Keep it low: Use a tall element or two in a dinner table centerpiece, but you want people sitting across from one another to be able to see each other’s faces. 2. Vary your vases: A single flower can make a powerful statement in a handsome decorative vase, or use a plain vessel – even a mason jar or a kitchen cup – when using more flowers and other elements. 3. Start with green: Snip leaves from the bottoms of your flowers (they’d cloud the water in your vase and make the arrangement last a shorter time); arrange them, facing out, around the vase first, or snip evergreen leaves from other plants in your yard to ring your vase. 4. Add flowers: Stay within the same color palette (yellow, orange, red are obvious fall choices that work well together) or go monochrome and use multiple flower varieties in a single color. Start with your tallest flower or flowers in the middle of the arrangement, then fill in shorter and shorter flowers around the edges. If your centerpiece will be on the side of a table, or against a wall, use more of a stairstep arrangement. 5. Add fun stuff: An arrangement is a blank can-
Kathryn Everett says working with a complimentary color palette and a variety of textures makes the messy-but-pulledtogether centerpiece a winner, every time.
vas, so add any textured item that works with your décor. A found feather or two can be put in with the flowers, or grab some wheat stalks or overripe tall native grasses that have formed seedheads (available everywhere outside) and garnish where the added item will add to, not detract from, the green base and flowery color pop. 6. Careful about scent: Not many fall flowers have much scent, but if you’re using your centerpiece for a dinner or formal meal, you don’t want to overpower your food with floral scent.
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Carmen and Edward Fox are experts at restoring and repairing heirloom and antique furniture.
Try DIY before calling in the pros
• An unsteady wooden chair means one thing: Joints between the legs, chair back or rungs have broken free. If you can see that it’s just one rung, it’s a relatively easy fix. Grab a syringe and some wood glue. Pull the rung out as much as possible and gently sand away old glue. Run your sandpaper inside the female end of the joint, too. Reinsert the rung and plunge the syringe in, inserting glue until is bubbles out the end. Clamp firmly for at least 24 hours. If there are multiple joints with issues, save time and avoid frustration by disassembling the entire chair. Label each piece, and use a deadblow hammer to tap apart wood pieces. Not just one—several. The only fix is to completely disassemble the legs and reglue them. • Table wobble: Step away from the matchbook and go for a permanent fix. Verify it’s not a wavy older floor making your dining table unsteady. If you determine the table legs are uneven, put glides under each table leg, adding washers under the shorter leg to add thickness until the table loses the wobble. • Nicks and scratches on any wood furniture: Complete restoration is a big job, but for small blemishes, there are many DIY tricks to try first. Lemon juice plus vegetable oil can erase some scratches, as can rubbing a cut nut (walnut, almond, pecan). Coffee grounds can darken a
Edward Fox is one of a few modern furniture restorers who’s experienced in a variety of recaning methods. scratch deep enough to expose raw, unfinished wood, as can tea bags. An eyebrow pencil is easy to control and can be used to draw over (and in) a light scratch; so can a dark crayon – both have the benefit of leaving a bit of waxy residue that actually fills the void, and both can easily be removed if you think it doesn’t suit. A dab of iodine colors many scratches; add a dash of denatured alcohol if your wood is light-colored. Liquid shoe polish also works, and if it is that minor, just find a closely hued Sharpie or other permanent marker (if you don’t have an official wood refinishing marker) and carefully draw over the blemish.
Is your table stable? The team at Fox Wood Works can find out (and they can fix it) Edward Fox has learned from three decades of practice, where there’s a will, there’s a way. At his Fox Wood Works near Morrisville, has made a name for himself restoring and repairing antique and family heirloom furniture. In addition to fixing just about any wood furniture, Fox is one of few artisans that still practices chair caning, rushing and splinting. “I handle everything from generational treasures to what you’d almost call junk,” Fox says. “Valuable to not so valuable. But everything has a story, and I like restoring the story.” When Fox was a boy, he built model airplanes, crashed them and repaired them himself. “It was a challenge to fix them,” he says. “I don’t know if that translated into repairing furniture. I thought I would grow up to be a mechanic.” 18
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Fox apprenticed under master craftsman Peter Grycotis in Fredericksburg to learn the trade. He opened Fox Wood Works in 1990. Fox Wood Works is in a building that housed the old Morrisville Normal Training School until 1919. He rents from the adjacent Morrisville United Methodist Church. He laughs when asked if it could be just as well be called “The Last Resort.” “People bring me things that they’ve lived with, broken or messed up, for years,” he says. “But it’s usually some family furniture that they don’t want to throw away, so, finally, they bring it to me.” And Fox fixes it. Sometimes it doesn’t stay fixed. “I almost never say no, I can’t fix your furniture, because usually I can,” he says. “Though I had this couple one time. I repaired their kitchen chair, but I had to fix it again after she hit him over the head with it. “That was a story to tell.” Depending on the repair, a piece goes through many stages to go from broken to fixed. Fox and
Carmen Fox helps out with sanding, and more, at the Morrisville shop. wife Carmen work to strip, sand, glue, stain, paint and lacquer. Turnaround is two weeks to three months, based on the complexity of the job. “I like helping people keep their history,” Fox says.
Harvest home
By any other name, this season celebrates balance Autumn brings with it change as the earth settles down after months of growth
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By Mara Seaforest Humans are obsessed with order — and staying alive. When we can celebrate both, it’s time to light a bonfire, feast and dance. It has always been this way, and the more perilous the times, the more devoted we are to the delicate balance. So goes the autumn equinox. From the beginning of time, humanity has used the end of the growing season to gather the fruits of this year’s hunt and harvest. Each September 21 – some years the 20th, some years the 22nd, the autumn equinox is known as a “quarter day” because it falls between summer and winter solstices. Like the vernal equinox in April, it divides the year into perfectly balanced quarters of darkness and light. The autumn equinox has traditionally been the first big harvest festival of the year, something like a Thanksgiving for earlier civilizations. The equinox is sometimes called Mabon, sometimes Michaelmas; others refer to it as Harvest Home. By any name, this time of year is as important in modern times as it was in ancient days of hunter-gatherer society. In this time of stocking (freezers, pantry shelves with canned goods stored for winter), take stock of the spiritual aspects of the year as well. The start of fall is the perfect time to take account of the balance of your body and soul, to nourish the spirit with everything the season offers. What have you harvested? Are you proud of what you’ve done since the last time we took stock? Did you plant the right crops this year – literally or figuratively? Did you tend them well? What produced, and how did you help make that happen? What was a total flop, and why? What weeds took over? What will we do better next season? Don’t worry that there’s little time to answer all the questions since, this season – and, especially, this year, there actually is time. Make the most of your time at home – lots of that this odd year – to reflect on the seasons that
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Consider a special fall ceremony to welcome in the harvest season. You can include elements of earth, fire, water and air to bring balance to the celebration. have passed and use the quieter time to study what’s working in your life. Consider creating a sacred spot – right at your own home, to bring the season into balance. This can be indoors or outside. Try a small bonfire if you have a yard or land. Consider a candle – real flame or electric, if you don’t. Add the other elements of nature — in addition to fire, bring in symbols of earth, air and water. Decorate your special space with locally-grown, even home-grown, vegetables, or a loaf of bread to represent the harvest. Add a special painting or drawing, this year even a mask tells the story of 2020. Add to your altar tokens donated by nature herself – a pine cone or a bird’s feather that you’ve found on a solitary walk. To complete the traditional contemplative celebration of the season, sit still in your special space and sense the rhythm of the world. Sing or dance if the spirit moves you. Be reverent. Be happy. Acknowledge sorrows. Count your blessings. Even this trying year, even in dark times, in this land, they’re abundant. Feast on the food you placed on your altar, and with every swallow, promise yourself the growth and gentleness you want to nurture in yourself and others over the coming months. With quiet reverence, accept the great gift of the autumn season. Open it with gratitude.
• Topping • Pruning • Feeding • Take Downs • Stump Grinding • Firewood • Excavating • Mulching • Landscaping • Lawn Care/Mowing • Bush Hogging • Pressure Washing • Snow Removal
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FACES & PLACES
Livestock sales critical to region Fauquier Livestock Exhange's Stan Stevens explains how the local ag economy relies on a regular rotation of sales
Stan Stevens has worked at the Fauquier Livestock Exchange nearly three decades.
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Quite a mouthful ….
Stan Stevens knows from experience the nightmare of spring, 2020 to a livestock producer. “Offering these livestock sales is important to the community,” says Stevens, acting general manager at a sales facility in Marshall. “We have an agricultural base to this county. We have producers and growers, people with cattle, feeders, calves, some dairy cows, and they need a place to buy and sell. “If we close for long, the ag economy suffers, and everybody loses.” Stevens, who’s worked at the Fauquier Livestock Exchange nearly 30 years, says though their twicemonthly cattle and livestock sales are popular, their equipment sale is even bigger. “We missed our April sale because of COVID,” Stevens explains. “We’re having one in October,
and it’ll be wild. The traffic will circle the block,” and he means a country block. “We sell everything from claw hammers to bulldozers. People will come from everywhere to buy, to sell, to trade, to talk. “It’s been a strange year.” He’s been acting manager since the prior general manager resigned. “This year, especially, you need a strong general manager, someone who’s out in the community,” says officer manager Shelley Merryman. “Even through COVID, we never closed. Everybody’s pitching in to keep these sales going for the farmers, to bring it back to what it was.” “I look at it as a wake-up call,” Stevens says of the lockdown crisis. “I mean, you should have a garden, even just a few plants in pots on your porch if that’s what you can do. You should have a side of (local) beef in your freezer. We’ve got to go back to the self-reliance method, or we’re doomed.” Cattle sales are scheduled Oct. 9 and 23, Nov. 13 and Dec. 11. A horse and tack sale is set Oct. 17. fauquierlivestockexchange.com
COURTESY PHOTO
Jesse Straight
What one grower has to say about local, seasonal eating (hint: it’s all good) “Our current context for many people has prioritized health and reliability over cheapness and convenience. Of course, I am the most biased opinion to be had, but I heartily concur. If you want the healthiest food for you and your family, the best source is from a local farmer you can know, who is raising food with practices that most imitate natural biological systems. Here at Whiffletree, that means animals are outside on continually fresh pasture, non-GMO feed, no antibiotics, no chemicals, and beef that is 100% grass-fed. (We call this eating) local and sustainable for health. But also, (we should) eat local for beauty. Part of what many people think is special and worth preserving in Fauquier County is the beautiful farmland. Exploration in any direction in Fauquier leads to green fields, babbling streams and peaceful forests. Many people do not have the luxury of all this beauty that we have all around us. The best way to preserve farmland is to support farms that are producing the tastiest and healthiest food. When a farm is economically viable, they stay a farm.
Your local farm purchases keep beautiful farms as your neighbors. Also, eat local for your economy. When you purchase from any independent, locally-owned business – including local farms – you’re putting your hard-earned money in the hands of other community members who are the most likely to care about our community. Let's fill up our community with people who live and work here – those are the people who are most likely to have our community's long-term interests at heart. – JESSE STRAIGHT Whiffletree Farm, Warrenton FALL 2020
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PHOTOS BY RANDY LITZINGER
Mary Stright was known for playing childrens records on her record player in Room 3 at Bradley Elementary in Warrenton and formed a special bond with hundreds of kindergartens over her 34 years teaching, so much so that she’s routinely invited to graduations, weddings, and baby showers of former students
Kindergarten teacher Mary Stright recalls a career spent developing ‘future adults’ in the classroom By Vineeta Ribeiro Even at age 5, Mary Stright (born Mary Corica) knew she wanted to be a teacher. Daughter of Italian immigrants – complete with the Ellis Island trunk, she used to line up her dolls and stuffed animals in a spare room upstairs as her pupils. She used a chalkboard, she says, to instill the early lessons to her first students. Fast forward six decades, and Stright has just retired after 34 years in a real classroom, having traded stuffed animals for upwards of a thousand kindergarten students. Stright routinely receives invitations to graduations, weddings and baby showers, proof of the continuing admiration of students. She even receives letters from the grandparents of children. Stright has even taught the children of former kindergarteners. There have been a mother-son, a father-son and a father-daughter combo. “Wow, I feel old,” she says, saying it is a privilege to carry education across the generations. Too, she’s taught all three children for at least seven families. Stright was born in Johnstown, Pennsylvania in 1954. She studied at University of Pittsburgh, earning a bachelors in early childhood education and social work in 1976. 22
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Her first posting in education was directing a daycare center at Seton Hill University. She moved to Fauquier County in 1985, spending her career at Central Elementary and C.M. Bradley Elementary. With such an extended career, it comes as no surprise Stright has often been the subject of essays devoted to “My Favorite Teacher” long after her students have left elementary school. “Parents are partners in their child(ren)s’ education,” Stright maintains. She recalls the story of a young boy who came to her class as a retention. “This boy had an impish smile and a fun-loving
nature, for which his wonderful family never made excuses. “(I) fell in love with the child,” she says, though on occasion would have to send a behavior note home in his backpack. The notes never seemed to arrive, Stright says. She and the mother did a little detective work and solved the mystery – “the boy was planting the notes in a bush on his way home from the bus.” Soon, Stright earned the boy’s trust, and the bush was bypassed as a messaging system. Mornings in Stright’s Room 3 began with journal writing, and, naturally, young students would finish their assignment quickly then begin a relentless chorus: “What do I do now?” As with many things, Stright had an easy solution. She’d play a Hap Palmer relaxation record to time the task. For the duration of one song, the children were required to write. As Stright points out, even 3 minutes is an eternity for a 5 year old. The record-playing worked so well that, by the end of the term, Stright says her students developed the patience and persistence to listen to an entire side of the record while they filled in details, drew backgrounds and progressed to writing entire sentences. She recalls a school board member dropping by her class one morning and seeing the silent intensity and detailed efforts of the young pupils. “The
FACES & PLACES Mary Stright
Age: 65 Education: Bachelors - early childhood education and social work, 1976, University of Pittsburgh Schools she taught at: C.M. Bradley Elementary 1990-2019, Central Elementary 1985-1990, director of lab school at Seton Hill University, daycare director at Seton Hill University Family: Husband, John, 66. daughters Jeana, 35; Ashley, 32; Aimee, 31 board member assumed they were rising second-graders,” Stright says. Stright reflects on the innocence of children who imagine that their teachers live at the school. “These children are amazing,” she says. “They love you unconditionally. The little flowers they bring you, notes of love, pictures of ‘you’ drawn with love – there is no better gift. “I counted it as a personal failure” when a child was not developmentally ready to progress to first grade after a year under Stright’s tutelage. “There is no easy way to explain to a 5-year-old that he or she will be in kindergarten again while friends are walking across the hall to first grade.” She likened early education to learning to walk: If a child was not developmentally ready to walk, there was no sense in trying to get him to run. "It's hard to put into words just how good Mary Stright is,” says Alison Apffel, for 17 years a bus driver for the county, and mother of Ethan Apffel, who was in Stright’s 2007 class. “She just always has been there for him.” Kaleb Scott (class of 2014) and sister Kiki Scott (class of 2019), have fond memories of their kindergarten days. “Mrs. Stright made learning fun from the very start,” says Kaleb. “From the treasure chest to Clifford the big red dog, she went above and beyond to make kindergarten an unforgettable start to education.” “Mrs. Stright taught me how to stay in the lines while coloring, and in life,” adds a more philosophical Kiki. Their mother, Kristy WheelerScott, is also a big fan. “Both of my children were fortunate to be called Room 3 friends,” Wheeler-Scott says. “Mary Stright is hands-down, the best of the best. She’s a gift and was born to teach. “Not only does she set the groundwork for success in the classroom and academics, she nurtures and guides children to be good humans. (They) truly do learn all they need to know about life by being ... in Mary’s classroom. I’m forever thankful for her and the far-reaching influence she’s had.
Annual Pirate Day at Bradley Elementary.
“She has kept in touch with my children throughout their lives, celebrating their accomplishments and, almost 20 years later, we still anticipate opening the mailbox to find a card written in that distinct Mary Stright handwriting. She is a legend.”
Challenges
Stright recalls one of her biggest challenges was managing a classroom of children of varying ages and abilities. Some enter kindergarten at age 4, while others are about to turn 6. “The standards of learning for kindergarten are forever changing,” Stright says. But one thing remained constant: “These precious children come to you from many different backgrounds. They all are looking to be loved, accepted and made to feel welcome in a safe and positive learning environment.” When she arrived in Fauquier County in the mid-1980s, the county had just instituted full-day kindergarten. Previously, Stright had been director of a “kindergarten lab” school at a college in Pennsylvania. Through the years, Stright says, she’s learned to regard children not as kids but as adults in training. She hopes it will spread to home life: “Spend time with your children as a family, make traditions, show your love for them by your actions and read together daily.” She adhered to her own advice with her own family: Stright and husband, John, raised three girls born in the space of four years: Jeana, Ashley, and Aimee. In their early 30s now, all three hold advanced degrees. One is an architect, another a social worker, and the youngest, an assistant direc-
tor of university advising. Although it was challenging to spend a full day with a roomful of youngsters and then come home to her own young children, Stright feels she was “fortunate to have a husband who valued education, consistency in discipline and showing love and commitment to our children.” Although he commuted from Fairfax County, he was the girls’ homework helper. “We were a team,” says Stright of the co-parenting model. “It is nice to have technology, but nothing takes the place of being actively engaged with your children. “I tried to instill values, kindness, trust and a sense of well-being in each Room 3 friend,” Stright says. She taught through the years of fire
drills and tornado drills, more recently adding earthquake drills and lockdown drills. Stright remembers one of her students bursting into tears during a lockdown when the doorknob was rattled from the outside. It was just an administrator to ensure the door was properly locked, but Stright had to comfort her distraught pupils. “I was willing to lay down my life for any of those kids,” she says, tears welling up. “I mean, they’re your kids.” In return for her work year after year, Stright received hugs, smiles, greetings and expressions of “I love you” before the children left. “[These things] don’t come with a price tag. There is no better gift.”
Stright regularly is invited to the graduations of her previous students.
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FACES & PLACES
Salvation for your table setting design this season Fun finds at Fauquier’s Salvation Army The keys to setting an elegant dinner table are texture, layers and colors. The autumn season in the Piedmont rolls in with reds, yellows and oranges, and your dining choices can reflect the new hues. “It doesn't have to cost a fortune to set handsome table (from finds) at the Salvation Army,” says Warrenton Salvation Army store’s Christmas Hargrove. An added benefit, purchases “support the community.”
Expert tips for a festive fall table:
• A colorful table runner adds flair and elegance (you don’t have to buy one – a scarf from your wardrobe can work, or a fabric remnant can be neatly trimmed as a stand-in.) • A low centerpiece makes conversation easy. • Anchor the centerpiece with seasonal items (small pumpkins, bird feathers tucked in a decorative jar or vase, a bowl of unhulled nuts.) • Plate “chargers” take it from family supper to fine dining – the Salvation Army has lots of boldly colored stoneware plates that can easily serve as chargers, or use rattan placemats to elevate the experience. • Place dinnerplates on top of the chargers for
Warrenton’s Salvation Army is a treasure trove of finds for the fall dining table. This set of Haviland china was listed for $40 for 48 pieces. presentation during cocktail hour; swap them out for pre-plated salad plates when dinner starts. • Move it up another step and use folded cloth or
linen napkins – matching or not. • Fun placecards can be made from found items in your own yard or from hiking in the area. One idea is to write your guests’ names on small flat rocks with a dark Sharpie; or find colorful fallen leaves from trees and write names on those. Set the placecards on top of each dinner plate. • Add candle tapers or votive candles if desired, or use an array of battery-powered candles if preferred. * Make wise silverware choices when setting your table. While placing all utensils on the table before serving your meal may meet Emily Post etiquette standards, to be honest, a table meant for 10 set for 12 can get rather tight. • To keep your table orderly, consider bringing fresh utensils with each course, like a fine dining restaurant. Serve individual salad or hot appetizer plates with a salad fork (place the plates right on the charger you’ve pre-set.) When you clear places, take utensils away, swapping for the main course plate and a fresh knife and dinner fork. • Clear the dinner dishes after everyone has finished (don’t rush this) and settled into conversation. Pause production (again, take a cue from high-end restaurants - there’s a lot of careful timing involved) before serving dessert and offering coffee, tea or after-dinner aperitifs. • Bring in dessert plates or bowls with the appropriate silverware and include a teaspoon if serving coffee.
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Food & Wine
WAY BEYOND EATING AND DRINKING
The best thing since sliced bread? Pull-apart rolls. • Follow the food system, literally, farm to fork • Mother Fudger Kim Sayermarsh has great taste when it comes to pleasing the palate FALL 2020
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Squashed They're not just for summer anymore. Try these tips for a cool fall crop of storage squash and holiday-ready pumpkins, gourds and more
Is pumpkin a fruit? We’re questioning everything.
Characteristics of vegetables: Typically prepared in a savory manner, vegetables are the leaves, roots and stems of a plant, such as celery, potatoes and broccoli. Seeds grow separate from the part that is eaten. Characteristics of fruits: Fruits contain seeds in or on their flesh. Fruit seeds are eaten along with the flesh of the item.
summer squash. Unlike with seeds of summer squash, seeds of most winter squash, such as pumpkin seeds, can be roasted for snacks. By Sandy Greeley Because of their tough skin, winter squash can be stored When your kids complain for long periods of about being forced to eat their vegtime in a dark, etables, point out that squash is actucool cupboard. ally a fruit. Historians sugBotanically speaking, the yellow gest squash plants and green fruits of this low-growing originated in Central America, rambler come in numerous sizes, though their relatives also preshapes, colors, textures, even seasumably grew in Africa and Asia. sons. Summer squashes include Edible But historians do attribute to Cenand beautiful, squash zucchini, yellow crookneck, pattral Americans the knack and skills blossoms are part of typan and others. Winter squashes the payoff of planting of domesticating squash, probably – harvested in the fall – include fall-fruiting squash varieties around 10,000 BCE. butternut, acorn, spaghetti squash, like spaghetti squash, acorn Records confirm that explorer pumpkin and more. squash and pumpkins. Christopher Columbus took squash Winter squash are harvested in back to Europe, where it spread in the mature stage when the outer skin becomes tough. This makes them usually popularity from Spain and Portugal. Italians take credit for creating the hybridized harder to peel and the inside flesh requires longer cooking times; the skins are not eaten as with zucchini squash in the 19th century near the area
PHOTO BY LEAH CHALDARES
Acorn, butternut and delcotta illustrate some of the many shapes, size and colors squash come in. of Milan. The zucchini returned to America in the early 20th century, where it has since become a staple of the American kitchen. To extend the storage time for winter squash, make sure to cure your autumn harvest. Curing concentrates natural sugars and causes the skin to harden, helping stored squash resist rot. Curing takes 10 to 14 days of simply letting the squash sit in a warm place with good air circulation. Set squash on an elevated rack or mesh frame—chicken wire stretched across a frame or a window screen will do. Cure blue hubbard, buttercup, butternut and spaghetti squash. Acorn squash is a winter squash that should not be cured. Store cured squash in a cool, dark, dry place. Don’t store squash near apples pears or other ripening fruit. Ethylene gas will cause rot. Winter squashes can store up to six months if handled correctly.
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FOOD & WINE
Farm to fork – We’re pretty far removed from the food system Learn the production schedule of what’s on your dinner plate By Amanda Gray, DVM
In chickens, as in other sources of protein, knowing your farmer, and knowing their livestock living conditions, is a winning strategy for health – your own, the animals’ and the earth’s.
Few Americans remember the days when most products were bought locally and not through the commercial supply chain. Eggs were gathered from a coop in the yard – or from the neighbor’s coop, and depending on which processor, and, therefore, inmeat came from the farmer down the road or the spection process, they use. Local buyers have the equivalent. The global economy hadn’t yet touched luxury of being able to literally go to a farm and local food sourcing, and everybody knew their food confirm the living conditions, and can even go to – where it came from, what it looked like, how it the processing plant to custom-order cuts. lived, and why it tasted so delicious. Pork: It takes pork seven months to go farm to Because it was local. fork. This disconnect makes it Local is best, both Industry standard is for no surprise how far we’ve be- for producers and processors sows to give birth in farrowcome removed from the food • Fauquier's Finest ing crates and for piglets to chain. Bealeton nurse there for three weeks There’s a lot to understand • Gadell's Processing (wild game only) before they are moved to an about how a ham sandwich Catlett enclosed but roomy nursgoes from a pig rooting in the • Lebanese Butchers ery where they stay for six mud in the corner of a pas- Warrenton to eight weeks. Commercial ture to thin-shaved slices sold • The Whole Ox butcher shop hogs are moved to finishing over a franchise deli coun- Marshall facilities where they are fed a ter. Once you learn and un- • Blue Ridge Meats specific diet to produce uniderstand animal husbandry, Front Royal form muscle, and gain weight though, you grow to appre- • Adams Custom Slaughter quickly. ciate the producers and the Amissville They stay there about 16 livestock animals themselves. weeks before they processing. Take a look at the timeline Again, federal or state inspectors ensure safety of involved in how products go from start to finish, meat before it is packaged and marketed for sale from farm to table: or sent for extra processing. Beef: Beef takes two to three years to grow Small family farms often keep hogs – two to from birth to finish weight. Beef cattle spend six 20, even more – in a more natural, less industrito eight months with their mothers – most places, al manner. Pigs are relatively low maintenance, spending their time on pasture. When weaned, young cattle go to what are called stockers or backgrounders. There, their diet consists of different pasture grasses, and they gain weight and build protein. Production cattle then go to a feedyard for four to six months where they are fed scientifically formulated diets to build muscle, add weight and produce tender, flavorful meat. All cattle in feedlots receive regular care both from handlers and from veterinarians when necessary. Grass-fed beef cattle remain on pasture, though many are fed supplemental grain or corn to tenderize the muscles and enrich the flavor of the meat. Under federal or state jurisdiction, inspectors and veterinarians are at every meat packing plant in the nation to ensure appropriate handling and meat quality. Finally, meat products go to buyers who market to grocery stores, or to value-added producers who make products like broth, jerky, smoked meat and processed deli cuts. Some meat is exported, some sold directly to restaurants, other meat is sold more locally via farmers markets, onGrass-fed and pasture-raised beef is a speciality of farm sales and direct sales to local buyers. Small, local producers can sell their product Virginia’s Piedmont region, with cattle a big part of by the piece or by the whole (or half, or quarter,) Fauquier’s farm economy.
Safety first
USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service plays a pivotal role in maintaining the consistent, safe and fresh food supply we have all come to expect in the U.S. FSIS implements strict regulations for farms that produce or grow out animals, and check for drug residues, facility standards and transport standards. They are also responsible for the surveillance and elimination of food-borne disease outbreaks. For farmers markets and smaller operations, this responsibility shifts to state and local authorities.
happy with a safely fenced enclosure with shelter and access to water around the clock and access to food either free-choice or fed at regular intervals. Producers can choose to keep hogs on concrete – easier to keep clean, and less maintenance, or on pasture – which certainly yields a happier pig, since pigs crave nothing more than rooting in the dirt and mud with their snouts, but it is harder to keep clean and a couple hogs will decimate an acre of grass pasture and light woodland and brush within weeks. Certain heritage breeds of pig – Mangalista, Duroc and others – take a bit longer to grow to processing weight, as much as 10-12 months. Their meat is much darker, almost red like beef, with excellent yield and commands a higher price per-pound since it costs more to produce. Chicken: It takes five to seven weeks for a chicken to go from fertilized egg to a fried drumstick at your backyard picnic. Commercially grown broiler chicks hatch in hatcheries; within 72 hours, they are taken to what are called rearing or grow-out sheds where they mature. Like all ground-nesting birds, baby chicks are born able to run and feed themselves; the mental image of a helpless baby bird in a nest, being fed for weeks by a pair of attentive adult parents is true for tree-nesting birds. Chickens are fed different diets according to their maturity stage. Commercial breeds reach optimal processing weight at about seven weeks. Some commercial chicken is sold labeled as “free-range,” but buyers do well to learn what this amorphous term actually means. For locally produced chicken, the term would usually mean a friendly flock of backyard poultry that comes when they’re called for hand-tossed treats, living with a lawn to scratch for insects by day and a snug, safe coop to sleep in at night. But industrial-scale poultry producers are able to co-opt the term “free-range” though that’s absolutely not the reality. The USDA's definition of free range is that birds have “outdoor access” for part of the day during certain stages of their life. In some cases, this can mean access only through a “pop hole,” with no full-body access to the outdoors and no minimum space requirement. This means that a free-range label can be applied to chickens that have never actually been outside, only had “the opportunity” to go outside. FALL 2020
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FOOD & WINE
Perfect classic cocktails, with fabulous local flair Your ingredients can come from the backyard or the local distillery or cidery. Make them your own with personal touches. If you find the idea of playing mixologist intimidating – especially if you’re also on the hook to play host(ess), chef, waitress and busboy, take comfort in our cheat-sheet for fall cocktails. We’ve compiled a list of classics but gave them a distinctly Piedmont twist, with many (most) ingredients homegrown right here in Fauquier County. Two tips ensure home-mixing success: First, give your concoctions a dry run before your party to iron out your personal flavor preference. And make sure you have the garnishes on hand, and pre-cut, or pre-mixed, to make cocktail hour a seamless start to your autumn feast.
1. Old-fashioned One of the easiest cocktails to make, the whiskey old fashioned has been popular since the 1800s. Try the flavorful Heritage whiskey from Murlarkey Distillery in Bristow. • 2 ounces whiskey • 3 dashes aromatic bitters • 2 teaspoons simple syrup (boil a half cup water and a quarter cup sugar to make simple syrup) • Orange slice and cherry for garnish Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker filled with ice and stir well. Pour into a rocks glass. Garnish with orange and cherry.
2. Country margarita
No need to go south of the border – make a tasty twist on the more traditional – often cloying in its sweetness – margarita from Warrenton’s own Belle Vodka and Old Busthead (we like their IPA) or Powers (try the easy sipping blonde ale.) This recipe serves 6. • 24 ounce container of frozen lemonade concentrate • 1 1/2 cups vodka • 24 ounces beer • ice cubes Mix in a pitcher and serve in widerimmed glasses. 30
FALL 2020
Call it your own with our recipe for homemade apply brandy
Even cocktail hour can be fully Fauquier. Start with locally vinted wine, locally brewed beer or locally distilled spirits, filing in with herbs from your own garden and glassware to suit your setting.
3. Fauquier mule
Our take on the Moscow mule. The classic cocktail is served in a pre-chilled copper mug, but sub in a silver (or stainless) julep cup for real Hunt Country flair. Use a chilled mug if you don’t have either. Use local hard apple cider from Cobbler Mountain Cellars and local ginger beer from Altered Suds in Warrenton for a truly homegrown concoction. • 4 ounces hard apple cider • 4 ounces ginger beer • 1.5 ounces citron vodka (or plain vodka) • Juice of half a lime • Dash of ground cinnamon Mix ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain into a chilled copper mug filled with crushed ice. Garnish with apple slices, lime wedge and-or a cinnamon stick
4. The Gin in Virginia
Tart, but sweet and smooth, put the “gin” in Virginia with this spiked apple cocktail that’s the essence of fall in Fauquier. Pick local apples and use locally distilled gin from the Catoctin Creek Distillery or Mt. Definance. Make it even more homegrown by buying local raw honey to make your simple syrup (pour a quarter cup hot water over a quarter cup of honey.) You can even grow your own garnish – use thyme out of your garden or from the farmers market. Thyme is a hardy perennial that grows easily in our zone 7-sometimes 6. • 4 ounces gin
• 4 ounces apple cider • 1 ounce lime juice • 2 ounces honey simple syrup • Dash of cinnamon • 2 thyme sprigs • Matchstick-cut apple, any variety Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until chilled. To serve, fill two glasses with cracked ice and matchstick apples. Strain cocktail to glasses and garnish with sprigs of thyme.
5. Autumn, on the rocks
This easy sipper can be made so personal you can call it your own, literally. Try it made with this easy homemade apple brandy recipe. Buy local apple brandy through Copper Fox, Mt. Definance and Laird and Company, a central Virginia distiller. Naturally, you’ll want to pick local apples for your garnish. Try thin slivers of green and red apples for a handsome touch. • 1.5 ounces apple brandy – Make your own or use a local brand • 4 ounces ginger ale (or similar light-colored carbonated soda) Mix in a tall glass with ice. Garnish with lemon or lime wedge or apple slices.
6. Fall-flavored, full-flavored sangria
Sangría is a traditional wine punch that originates from Spain. A classic sangria is made with red wine and chopped fruit. Our down-county version is robust and dark, not puckery sweet
You can make this spiced or plain. • 4 cups sugar • 2 cups water • 4 pounds Fauquier-grown apples, sliced (one variety or a mix) • 1 liter brandy • 3 whole cloves, optional • 1 cinnamon stick, optional Combine sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil; stir until sugar is dissolved – less than a minute. Remove from the heat. Place apples in a large glass or plastic container. Add the sugar mixture, brandy and the cloves and cinnamon stick, if you want spiced brandy. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least two weeks, stirring once a week. Strain the brandy mixture, then pour liquid into glass jars or bottles for storage. If using for gifts, put an additional cinnamon stick and cloves in each bottle. like many sangria mixes, featuring (local, if possible) apples and pears soaked in a full-bodied (local, if possible) red wine. Try it with the rich red-blend 2018 Crooked Run bottling from Arterra Winery near Delaplane. Add apple cider -- sparkling or regular, local if possible. Pour it in layers to make a handsome, twotoned sipper. Garnishes can be hyper-local -add a sprig of rosemary from your garden for a pretty presentation. * 1 apple, sliced * 1 pear, sliced * 2 tablespoons sugar * 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, optional * Bottle of red wine * Bottle of sparkling cider or apple cider * Garnishes: Cinnamon stick, rosemary sprig, orange slices
FOOD & WINE
Falling over ourselves to test out these local brews this season Story and photos By John Daum
There is no better time than autumn to soak in the beauty of Virginia while enjoying a delicious beer from the countless breweries in every corner of the Old Dominion. With summer yardwork winding down, and business regulations on social distancing reaching a delicate balance, now is the time to get out an explore some of the Virginia Piedmont’s fantastic breweries that offer an amazing variety of beers on tap and some of the best outdoor seating options anywhere in the world. Pick a designated driver, and hit the road for a tasty tour. For a north-to-south brewery crawl, a natural first stop would be the beautiful patio at Hillsborough Farm Brewery located in the small town of Hillsboro in northern Loudoun. Beers are poured in the Fox Den tap room and reflect a classic approach to brewing with many familiar styles available. “Ol’ Bessie” is a traditional American Brown Ale brewed with Wilamette hops with hints of chocolate, figs and caramel. “Stone Cold Fox” is a smooth IPA with tropical fruit notes and refreshingly dry finish. If you brought along some wine lovers on your day trip they will pleased with the selection of wine produced at the adjacent vineyard. Next, take a break from sweeping Blue Ridge and Piedmont farmland views and catch a distinctly industrial vibe at Escutcheon Brewing in Winchester. Their “Plimsoll Session IPA” is a lowalcohol, easy-drinking session beer made with Calypso, Centennial and Cascade hops. It clocks in at an approachable 4.5 percent alcohol. Try a pint of “Habermehl’s Oktoberfest Lager,” a traditional Fest Beer that sets up for a stroll on Winchester’s downtown pedestrian promenade which has an abundance of food offerings to explore. Cross back across the Blue Ridge to check in at Dirt Farm Brewery in Bluemont. Climb their high hill to one of the most amazing views anywhere in Virginia.
Patrons say outdoor seating with a view, plus excellent ales, are part of the attraction to supporting the local Hillsborough Brewery.
The production facility at Blue Mountain Brewery is impressive in scope. Dirt Farm’s large, expansive patio and lawn are perfect for enjoying their “Shelter in Place” New England-style IPA. At 5.4 percent alcohol, it won’t knock you for a loop like many in this category but it still delivers the juicy hop bomb that IPA fans expect. For something completely different, check out their “Tart 31 Cherry Ale,” a fruit beer with hints of sour aging which gives it a pleasant, tart finish. As an added bonus for some, it is gluten reduced. Take a scenic byway past farms, vineyards, battlefields and numerous small towns – windows down, music blasting, if you wish, until you reach a great under the radar spot. Pro Re Nata Brewery – Latin for “take as needed,” offers a variety of styles and seasonal offerings throughout
the year. Try “Bagpipes of Pan,” a Scottish Ale with a balanced roasted malt profile and an aftertaste of sweetness that comes from the addition of local Bubba’s Buckwheat Honey. Also worth seeking out is “Hazing to Remember,” a hazy IPA made with English ale yeast and oats which lend a smoother and more balanced finish to the beer with minimal bitterness. Just down the road from Pro Re Nata is Blue Mountain Brewery which is sold throughout the state. Rather than sampling one of their betterknown offerings, try their outstanding variation of “Dark Hollow” made with Trager Brothers coffee beans and chocolate nibs. This is a 10 percent alcohol Imperial Stout, fair warning. Not to be missed is their “Spooky,” a barrelaged pumpkin ale that is perfect for the season. It clocks in at an impressive 8.2 percent after being brewed with 200 pounds of pumpkin puree, cocoa nibs and aged in Bourbon barrels. End the day back in Fauquier County at the outstanding Old Bust Head Brewery in Vint Hill. An entire day could be spent enjoying their tap list, listening to local live music and ordering snacks from their food truck. Be sure to sample “Nitro Oatmeal,” a silky smooth stout with hints of honey, cream and chocolate. Not always on tap but definitely worth ordering if available is their unusual “S’more Latte Stout,” as decadent as you would imagine. For something more conventional, try “Vixen,” an easy-going traditional Irish red ale with deep amber color, medium body and satisfying finish, the perfect nightcap to wrap up a fall brew tour.
The expansive view from the Dirt Farm brewery patio is part of the local libation experience.
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FOOD & WINE
A sweet cap to the perfect meal: Homemade fudge Mother Fudger business is built on the universal love for dessert
Mother Fudge, also known as Kim Sayermarsh, offers a taste at a recent pop-up sale outside the Salem Cafe in Marshall.
Warrenton Lions Club HONORING PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY
HONORING PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY HONORING PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY
A pop-up shop selling just one item? Preposterous. Just selling homemade fudge? Sweet. Confectioner Kim Sayermarsh calls the creamy confection a perfect finale for a perfect meal, whether a sandwich on the fly or a formal, sitdown affair for a crowd. “My mom, now she wasn’t much of a cook, bless her, but my grandma, now she was amazing,” Sayermarsh explains how she started Mother Fudger four years ago. She’s deeply rooted in Fauquier, and centers much of her business here: grandmother Mae Pearson was postmistress at the Hume Post Office for 47 years. Sayermarsh loved making desserts and experimenting in the kitchen. Those traits served her well when her grown children told her she needed to turn her hobby into a business. “When my husband died five years ago, it left me in a bad place,” she recalls. “My kids lived with it for a while, but finally they said, ‘mom, you need to start your own business.’ “And that’s how Mother Fudgery was born.” She researched and studied home cooking business models, and landed on fudge. The ingredients are simple, she says, and readily available, and the success depends on the
skill and patience of the fudgemaker. “There’s a lot of technique to it,” she says. “Fudge needs to be smooth, not grainy. It should be soft, and melt in your mouth, but hold its shape. “There’s a lot to it.” Now that she’s perfected her fudge recipe – she declines to share her trade secret, Sayermarsh is working on a business degree from Liberty University; she hopes to be able to create and manage her own website; for now, she uses her Facebook page and Instagram to promote sales, and offers online coupons. Orders are via text, phone or email. Most of her business is driven by the kind of impulse purchase that assists church bake sales. “People love something sweet,” she says. “That’s what makes it work.” “It’s a combination of things that makes fudge so perfect,” says Sam Tower, sampling Mother’s wares outside the Salem Cafe after lunch one afternoon. “It’s creamy, smooth goodness, delicious, but it’s also about memories. People remember getting fudge, or making fudge, with their parents or grandparents. There’s an emotional attachment.” Sayermarsh can custom-design any flavor requested. “Right now I’m working on a raspberry truffle flavor that a lady asked me to make, just like her own mama used to make.” motherfudgeryva@gmail.com
The 2020 Official White House Historical Association Ornament honors the
Thethirty-fifth 2020 Official White House Historical Association Ornament honors the president of the United States, John F. Kennedy (1961-1963) Kennedy's brief administration was tragically cutF.short by an (1961-1963) assassins thirty-fifth president of the United States, John Kennedy bullet on brief November 22, 1963 in Dallas, Texas.cut short by an assassins Kennedy's administration was tragically bullet on November 22, 1963 in Dallas, Texas. Chosen for the image on the ornament is a replica of JFK's official portrait,
by Aaron Shikler, thaton hangs in the White today. Mrs. Kennedy Chosen for the image the ornament is House a replica of JFK's official portrait, requested a unique pose for the late president. Shikler chose to portray a by Aaron Shikler, that hangs in the White House today. Mrs. Kennedy man in deep thought with his arms folded across his chest rather than a requested a unique pose the late president. Shikler chose to portray a frontal expression of his for face. man in deep thought with his arms folded across his chest rather than a frontal of his face. The expression artwork is enhanced with a wide gold frame, adorned with JFK's initials and an American eagle. The White House, Christmas 2020. On the back of
Thethe artwork is enhanced with President a wide gold frame, adorned with JFK's ornament are the words, John F. Kennedy 1961-1963 andinitials a by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, " The White House the of andquote an American eagle. The White House, Christmas 2020.belongs On thetoback in America. theAmerican ornamentPeople." are theMade words, President John F. Kennedy 1961-1963 and a quote by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, " The White House belongs to the $22 each American People." Made in America. Available at Rankin’s Furniture and Hardware Stores
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$22 each Available at Rankin’s Furniture and Hardware Stores FALL 2020
Kim Sayermarsh’s homemade fudge sells out when she sets up her beloved pop-up shops at area farmers markets, community events and shopping centers. Her personal favorite flavor? Orange Dreamsicle layered with smooth vanilla.
FOOD & WINE
For vampires or for dinner, inviting garlic in is easy Follow our step-by-step to plan now for spring crop By Tim Ohlwiler Plan ahead this season: Your taste buds will thank you next spring. Fall is the time to plant garlic. A fairly simple plant to grow, garlic grows much like its relative the onion, and prefers similar conditions. September and October are the perfect months to plant garlic, since it grows best in this area if you plant in fall for harvest next spring. If you’re unable to find garlic sets in the local nurseries, you can actually just plant the garlic that you buy in the grocery store. Loosen your planting bed soil with a tiller or by hand-digging. Garlic prefers a moist well-drained loam soil, which is what most gardeners have in Fauquier. Just be sure that water will not sit in your garlic plot over the winter. A layer of compost or a little 10-10-10 fertilizer should be added at the time of planting. Plant garlic cloves about 4 inches apart, with the top of each clove about an inch underground. The part of the clove that was the roots should point down, and the part that was the stem should point up, towards the soil surface. If planted right, garlic plants are hardy through winter, however they will benefit from a light layer of leaves or straw just to make sure they are not damaged by the coldest temperatures. Keep weeds pulled out of your garlic patch so the growing plants don’t have to compete for nutrients or water. The homegrown treats will be ready to harvest next June. As with onions, when it’s ready to pull, the leaves will start to turn brown. After harvest, let your bulbs dry and cure to extend storage life, or use it right away. Oftentimes, in the early spring a garlic plant will send up a green stalk will a light green flower bud on it. This will look like a witch’s hat that is light green sitting on the dark green stalk. Don’t pull it like a weed – treat it like a delicacy. The flower bud, called a garlic scape, is a real gourmet treat. Scapes can be used to make pesto sauce or use them the same way you’d cook with garlic cloves. If you don’t harvest your scapes for culinary use, they should be removed so that the plant can direct all of its energy into making a larger garlic bulb. There are few pests with garlic. Once in a while a bulb will be infested with a root maggot just as onions can be. The biggest problems come from rot if the soil is too wet. Another time to plant garlic is in early spring, no later than March. The growing season will be shortened; you’ll harvest in August. If you do plan to plant garlic in the early spring, do your soil and bed preparations in the fall as it is often wet and difficult to get into the garden to work the soil in spring.
Sticking your neck out
Soft-neck garlic is what’s usually sold in gro-
Don’t be put off by the time involved with the two-season growing period for fresh garlic. It is an easy crop to start, not fussy about active care, and it pays off with delicious results a few months later.
cery stores. It has a long storage life – a year or more. Soft-neck garlic has a mild flavor, with stems so soft they can be made into braids. This is the variety of garlic used for braided garlic sometimes given as a holiday gift. Hard-neck garlic literally has a hard, stiff stem. It has a strong flavor and does not store as long. Still, hard-neck garlic has several months of storage. Though it has the word “garlic” in its name, elephant garlic isn’t actually garlic. Elephant garlic is technically a leek, though it does taste like a mild garlic. It has a shelf life of a few months.
Garlic mashed potatoes
Make this hyper-local by using homegrown potatoes (an easy crop to grow in spring, and, correctly handled, potatoes store well for use months after harvest) and by using your own, homegrown garlic (dry it and braid into ropes for hanging storage for months of preservation.) • 1 head of garlic • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 2 pounds potatoes (Yukon Gold or another yellow, waxy potato, is best) • Salt • 1/3 cup cream • 3 tablespoons butter Roast the garlic: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the outer layer of papery skin of the whole garlic head, leaving the head intact. Trim off the top of the garlic head. Drizzle olive oil over the top, salt lightly and wrap in aluminum foil. Bake 40 minutes or until cloves feel soft to the touch and are beginning to brown. Remove from the oven and let cool. Boil the potatoes: While the garlic is roasting, peel and chop potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Place
potatoes in a medium saucepan, add salt, cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer about 15 minutes ‘til fork-tender. Warm cream and butter together, on the stovetop or in the microwave. Drain the potatoes, then place back in the pot on the stovetop over low heat. Squeeze the roasted garlic into the potatoes and mash with a potato masher or a large fork. Add the cream and butter and mash until the potatoes are the consistency you want. Do not over-beat them, or the potatoes will become gummy.
Garlic pesto – master recipe
Fresh garlic makes a great addition to any pesto recipe. Learn the ratios here then make your own signature pesto by varying herbs, cheese and nuts for your base. Start with the classic basil pesto, then branch out, but note that most herbs are used in smaller quantities than basil. • 3 cups chopped fresh basil • 1 cup olive oil • ½ cup pine nuts • ⅔ cup grated Parmesan cheese • 2 tablespoons minced garlic Place the basil in a blender. Pour in about 1 tablespoon of the oil, and blend basil into a paste. Gradually add pine nuts, cheese, garlic, and remaining oil. Blend until smooth. Other herbs to use include parsley – pair with pistachios as your nut and Italian grana pedano as your cheese), cilantro (quesa fresco and toasted pumpkin seeds), mint (feta and almonds), sage (tame it with half parsley, and use parm-reggiano blend plus toasted walnuts) or tarragon (Gruyere and toasted hazelnuts.) FALL 2020
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A view of the vineyards at Barrel Oak Winery
Wine-making at Barrel Oak, from field to glass Story and photos By Coy Ferrell “A good wine is made in the vineyard,” says winemaker Sharon Roeder, of Barrel Oak Winery in Delaplane. For Virginia vineyards, the approach of autumn means grapes are almost ready for picking. Harvest, which usually starts in late August and lasts through November, isn’t the first step in the winemaking process, and it’s far from the last step in the journey from vine to bottle. Grapevines begin producing useable wine grapes a few years after being planted; with great care and not a little luck, the vines can produce quality wine grapes for decades - at Barrel Oak, some vines date back to the mid-2000s. The yearly process for ensuring the best-possible product, though, is extensive. Frankly, it sounds exhausting. “The vines must be tended to constantly from the minute the shoots begin to grow until the last cluster is harvested. You don’t dare turn your back on them,” Roeder says. “Problems can crop up literally overnight, most often in the form of mildews or pest damage. The vines grow incredibly quickly, so we are also constantly battling to control the jungle.” That’s just in the run-up to harvest, when the grapes are nearing peak ripeness. The work for this year’s harvest began late this winter, when each vine in the winery’s approximately 28 acres of plantings was carefully pruned before they wake up from their winter dormancy. When to prune is tricky, says Roeder. “You want to wait as long as possible to begin, because if there is a cold event, the damage will be at the tips,” she says. On the other hand, if you wait too long, new shoots – these are the growths that will eventually produce grapes – don’t have a chance to grow properly. About the middle of April, sap begins to flow through the vines and seep out of the pruned shoots. “The vines look like they are crying. It’s a beautiful sight, and it tells the winemaker that the vines have survived the winter,” she says. As fragile, nascent buds begin to grow from the pruned branches, frost becomes the concern. There were three frosts this spring, including consecutive nights on Mother’s Day weekend, but Barrel Oak’s 34
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vines were mostly spared. “Many of our friends and colleagues were not so lucky,” Roeder says. As the spring turns into summer, Roeder hopes for high temperatures and little rain; these conditions help prevent mold forming on the vines. “Rain is hands-down the biggest problem in Virginia,” she explains. “A hard rain will actually bounce mold spores around from leaf to leaf and spread the disease, and hot humid weather is a perfect breeding ground.” Lots of rainfall later in the season, when the grapes are nearly ripe, can slow the ripening process and dilute the sugar present in the grape, pushing back the harvest date and subsequently increasing the threat that a year’s labor will be for nothing. “In 2018 we had so much rain and overcast skies,” Roeder says, “that our Norton and Petit Verdot grapes were still half green when the first frost took all the leaves. We were not able to harvest those blocks.” About the beginning of August – depending on a multitude of factors including that summer’s weather and the varietal – the grapes begin transforming from hard, tart, sour fruit into the soft, sweet and aromatic fruit that makes for the perfect wine grape.
When does Roeder know this is happening? “The birds tell us,” she explains. “I don’t really even start thinking about picking a varietal until the wildlife start to show an interest. Nature is an amazingly clever thing.” The grapes’ sourness for most of the growing season, she says, is a natural defense against wildlife eating the fruit before the seeds inside each grape are able to reproduce, a process aided in the wild by animals – much in the same way squirrels distribute acorns and aid the creation of new oak groves. Measuring when the grapes have reached the perfect balance of acidity and sweetness – both elements are essential for a high-quality wine – is in itself both a high scientific process and a natural art. “We can measure the pH and the sugars and chart them on a graph, but ultimately we taste the grapes. It’s the winemaker’s call, and it’s more art than science,” Roeder explains. What that ideal balance between acidity and sugar is depends on the type of wine that will ultimately be produced from those grapes. “Grapes that will be used for sparkling wine or for Rosé are picked much earlier than if those grapes were destined for a still wine or a dry red. White wines that want bright, flirty acidity will be picked a bit early. Big bold reds that need color and a tannin backbone will be encouraged to hang on a little bit longer. It’s also something to take into consideration if the grapes are destined for a blend, to help them better complement one another.” As with everything else in the winemaking process, though, there are many factors at play. “If the decision has been reached that the grapes are ripe, no better time than the present,” Roeder says, but quickly adds there are many logistical questions she must answer before sending crews into the vines to bring in the grapes. “What is the weather forecast? What other grapes need to come in more urgently or may be coming from another vineyard? Is there room in the refrigerator for all of it? “The minute a cluster is cut from the vine,” she elaborates, “it begins to rot and the clock starts ticking. Sometimes, it’s better to leave it hang until you can fit it into the production pipeline. Other times it’s better to get it safely into the cellar.”
Once Roeder pulls the trigger, crews go out into the fields to pick each grape cluster, and the fruit is then chilled overnight in a drive-in refrigerator. Then, Roeder explains, “We arrive early in the morning the day after a pick, clean all of our equipment, and get to work.” For white wines, the juice is pressed from the grapes and before fermentation begins – depending on the style of wine, sometimes stems are removed before pressing, sometimes the whole clusters are pressed. If the clusters are destemmed, “The destemmer delivers a juicy stew of skins and flesh. The outside of the skins will impart a meatiness to the juice,” she says, and the skins can either be left to seep in the juice or removed immediately. Red wines are a different matter entirely. The grape clusters are destemmed and fermented with the skins and the seeds. After fermentation is completed – this usually takes about two weeks – the juice is finally pressed. Like so many other aspects of winemaking, the process is meticulous. “All of our red grapes are carefully sorted after destemming to make certain that only ripe healthy berries end up in the fermentation bins,” Roeder explains. “We don’t want to ferment rotten berries, green berries, bugs, leaves, or in one case a few years ago, a cell phone!” Then come all sorts of decisions.
Sharon Roeder inspects a cluster of grapes in the vineyards at Barrel Oak Winery. As the ripening process nears its conclusion in late summer, protective netting is place along the vines to discourage birds from eating the sweetening grapes. Will the wine be aged in a stainlesssteel tank? In an oak barrel? Some of both? Each choice affects the final product. “From that point,” she says, “the winemaker’s job is just to monitor and let nature do its job.” For crisp, tank-aged white wines, nature is usually finished by January of the following year, and those crisp whites are the first to be bottled. Of course, there are all sorts of con-
siderations there, too. For instance, Roeder explains, “They will be cold stabilized to ensure that they will not precipitate tartaric acid when the consumer chills it down, we also confirm protein stability so that they will not become cloudy when chilled.” By July, barrel-aged white wines and lighter red wines have been bottled. Bolder red wines, like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, need another six
months or so in the barrel, so in midsummer they are moved into fresh barrels and set aside. Of course, by July, Roeder is already thinking about the next harvest, when the winemaking cycle will start all over again. Is it all a bit overwhelming? Not to Roeder. “You’ve reminded me of what a wonderful, fun, challenging job it is to be a winemaking,” she said at the end of this interview.
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FOOD & WINE
Fauquier’s
usually moderate fall weather and highly productive garden soil are a perfect pair for an autumn planting of kale, chard or other salad greens. Sew seeds direct into beds vacated by spring peas or summer corn, or you can even fill a ceramic planter with soil and grow greens on your patio. Bring plants inside when the weather cools to extend the freshgrown season for weeks. Spring greens: They’re not just for spring – all varieties of lettuce love the autumn growing conditions here in Zone 6/7. Pick them young to use as baby greens, or let them grow for a later harvest. Kale: Use young kale leaves as you pick them – the ribs are soft and edible when young, but if you’re harvesting from mature plants sewn earlier this year, strip kale from the fibrous ribs. You can tenderize large kale leaves by massaging them with oil and salt-dipped fingers as you tear them into bite-sized pieces. Use them raw or flash-cook in a saute pan. Swiss chard: Tear chard into bitesized pieces and use raw or lightly cook to tenderize. You can snip chard ribs into pea-sized bits and flash-stirfry them in a dash of oil to use as a colorful, flavorful fall salad topper. Sprinkle with salt or minced herbs of your choice, or add a diced garlic clove. Get creative with fall salad greens: Use beet greens, young spinach, pea shoots if you made a fall planting, snipped collard greens, tender parsnip tops or any young green, to add dimension to texture and flavor. Remember, if you are using your
A fall-planted garden filled with greens extends your home-grown produce season nearly through November.
Savory salad to suit the season
What’s better than home-grown autumn greens to start your plot to plate meal? salad as a first course, keep it simple. Colorful greens tossed with dressing with a single topper (like homemade
The latest dietary recommendations With government involved intimately in the American diet, recommendations change regularly as new research proves, or disproves, conventional wisdom. A few decades ago, eggs were called bad; today, they’re the darling of the moment. As always, the plan to never eat anything that won’t rot is pretty much perfect (meaning, nothing artificial, no preservatives). Here are the latest USDA guidelines for building a healthy meal. 1. Try to include all the food groups throughout the day. Make fruits, vegetables, grains, dairy and proteins primary, with limited added sugar and sodium. 2. Aim for a half-plate of vegetables and fruits to get the full range of vitamins, minerals and nutrients from real food rather than synthetic supplements. Choose richly colored foods – vine-ripened, locally grown tomatoes, dark green locally (or per36
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croutons) is enough as a starter for a full meal. You can easily add other ingredients to make the fall salad
sonally) grown fall chard or kale, sweet potatoes and broccoli can all be grown in the Piedmont. 3. Growing your own grains might be taking it too far, but at least try for whole grain or whole wheat when choosing bread products. Homebaked is best; locally baked is second-best. 4. Remember when no-fat milk – and other foods – was suggested? Now, nutritionists recognize that it’s fat that satisfies the human body’s need to “feel full” and energized, and they’ve gone back to saying full-fat, or low-fat, milk is best. If you don’t like cow’s milk, almond or other nut milk provides a near percentage of fat and protein. 5. Protein requirements are best fulfilled with homeraised or locally produced livestock. Beef, pork, chicken and turkey are widely available from area farms, with plenty of private fishing holes and state and county parks offering fishing if that’s more to your taste. Nuts and some beans provide a good source of protein if you don’t eat meat. 5. Sandwich to stir-fry, getting creative in the kitchen brings up your game. Even a novice gardener can grow basil or oregano in a pot on the kitchen
into a full meal. Add walnuts (locally harvested or store-bought), roasted peanuts (local are best), pinenuts or pecans. Lightly toss with olive oil and toast briefly in a 350-degree oven to heighten flavor. Add a sweet touch with dried cranberries, raisins, snipped grapes or cherries, or whole fresh berries saved from the garden or from the farmers market (or store-bought.) Add any vegetables you have on hand, homegrown or store-bought. Marinated, canned artichoke hearts, olives or pickled beans or cucumbers add a new flavor dimension. Other fall crops like broccoli, cauliflower or late-season tomatoes can be chopped and added to your salad for color and flavor. Local goat cheese or chevre can be diced or shredded on top, or shred your favorite homemade or store-bought topper. Homegrown, oven-dried pumpkin or sunflower seeds add a salty crunch, and both summer crops are easy to grow. To make it into a supper dish, add cooked quinoa or brown rice. Local or store-bought bacon makes another tasty topper, or dice any cooked meat that suits your palate. Home-toasted croutons (go all the way homemade and bake your own bread for dicing into twice-baked salad toppers) dress up any dish. Homemade creamy balsamic dressing makes an excellent topping – make it super-local and use homemade yogurt and mayo with homegrown dried herbs if you can: Mix 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup plain yogurt, ¼ cup mayo, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon honey (local), 1 garlic clove, minced, 1/2 teaspoon dried garden herbs (oregano, basil, thyme, etc.), 1/2 teaspoon salt.
counter – or farmers markets are open through November. Adding spices, or unexpected items like roasted beets on a ham-and-cheese, or snipped basil and shaved fresh parmesean on tomato soup – give your meals dimension. 6 It hasn’t been hard this year, but eating at home is the only way to truly control your diet. Even a “high quality” restaurant or prepared food market is using preservatives, additives and synthetics to guarantee uniformity. Grow your own or buy local. Cook it yourself. It’s easy. 7. Keep it interesting by picking out new foods you’ve never tried before; a great rule of thumb is to buy one item at the store that you’ve never tried before. The internet is your friend – search “recipe, ____” for thousands of hits. 8. Satisfy, don’t deny, your sweet tooth. Try naturally sweet fruit – whole is best, of course, but sliced and made into a parfait with layers of whole-milk yogurt (homemade is best, few-ingredient store bought is okay) and a crumble of granola or toasted nuts on top. Add a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg if you want.
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A must-have in horse country -- horse cookies Young rider shares her tasty, molasses-laced recipe for caring (even sharing)
I knew the minute I saw one for the first time that I’d spend my life dedicated to horses. They’re the most beautiful and majestic animals I had ever seen. I remember the first time: I was in kindergarten, and we’d gone on a field trip to a nearby petting zoo. We were petting all the goats, sheep, cows and other animals when I saw a little pony sticking his head out of a stall at the end of the barn. The pony stared at us with big, curious dark brown eyes. I was so excited – I’d never seen an equine of any size in real life. Everyone else was petting the bunnies and the other animals, but I stayed with that pony the entire time. Neither of my parents grew up riding, so getting into horses was all on me. But seeing that adorable little gray pony created an obsession. I read books about horses. I dreamed of horses – in my sleep and in my daydreams. Once I started looking, I saw horses everywhere. Finally, I got to take riding lessons at a barn a few minutes from my house. I loved it so much. I loved the smell, I loved the sounds, I loved the feel of the horses’ and ponies’ thick fur/ Along the way, each horse I’ve met has taught me something, whether it has to do with riding skills, humility, courage or learning how to care for others. My favorite book when I first started riding, “For Horse Crazy Girls Only,” has a great recipe for homemade horse cookies – at last, a way I could pay back my debt to the horses and ponies in my life. In the years since, I’ve added some extra ingredients to customize my version of horse treats. I’ve gone through many trials of these cookies, and I feel like I’ve been able to perfect them. The horses and ponies in my life seem to agree. My favorite part of making these cookies in the reactions of the horses. Some raise their upper lips Making homemade horse treats is an easy way to share the love with all your animals. Horses adore them and so do people (they’re perfectly edible). We even taste-tested them on a cow (yes), two pigs (yes), a goat (yes) and a farm dog (yes.) The only pet that said “no” was a house cat. 38
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The Last Word BY OLIVIA HATCHER
Going to the dogs with these homemade training treats
Mixing and baking horse (or dog) treats provides a great way to bond with your animals, and, at the same time, gives you another way to show your appreciation for their roles in your life. in a kind of horse smile; others bob their heads in enjoyment. Some horses get the molasses in the cookies stuck in their teeth and continue tasting their treats for hours after. Some lick the container after the cookies are all fed. I admit I’ve eaten plenty of these before, during
• 2/3 cup pumpkin puree (or use applesauce, mashed bananas or more peanut butter if you don't have pumpkin) • 1/4 cup peanut butter (creamy best) • 2 eggs • 2 1/2-3 cups whole wheat flour (all-purpose is fine, too) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet wtih parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Mix first three ingredients with an electric mixer or by hand. Add flour little by little until the dough is no longer sticky. Knead dough on a lightly floured surface then roll to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut into shapes with cookie cutters or by hand, or use a knife to make squares. Cook on baking sheet 20-25 minutes. and after taking them to the barn, and, in reality, they’re very tasty and, actually, sort of healthy as a human snack. Just be prepared when you to to make these – mixing almost requires using your hands, and you’ll get sticky and messy, so plan ahead.
Recipe
• 1 cup rolled oats • 1 cup flour • 1 teaspoon salt • 2 teaspoons sugar • 2 teaspoons corn oil • 1/4 cup molasses • 1 cup shredded carrots • 1 cup diced apples Preheat oven to 350. Mix oats, flour, salt, sugar, oil and molasses in a bowl. Stir in carrots and apples. Add more molasses as needed to make a dough that binds together when you shape it. Shape into golfball sized cookies. Place on greased cookie sheet. Cook 10-13 minutes until golden brown. Note: You can alter this recipe many ways according to your personal horse’s personal tastes. Add raisins or other fruit if you know he likes that. You can also use horse oats instead of rolled (human) oats if it helps keep you from snacking on your horse’s treats.
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Please join Pearmund Cellars in supporting the Fauquier Family Shelter Service’s Piedmont Pumpkin Excursion Virtual Walk from October 1 to 31! This October, lace up your sneakers, grab your mask and get outdoors for the Piedmont Pumpkin Excursion! This fun and healthy virtual walk is the perfect opportunity for you, your friends and family to make your way around the greater Piedmont while raising funds and awareness for Family Shelter Services. Family Shelter Services is a private non-profit organization operating a 52-bed emergency homeless shelter in Warrenton and 24-unit transitional housing in Vint Hill that helps nearly 400 people annually. All of the proceeds from this excursion will go to the operation and maintenance of FSS facilities! As FSS receives no state or federal funding and relies primarily on community giving, we need your support now more than ever!
Register at: www.familyshelterservices.org/ppe SUPPORT Local
PEARMUND CELLARS
6190 Georgetown Road, Broad Run, VA 20137 540-347-3475 Open Daily 10am-6pm
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