FASHION
BEAUTY
MUSIC
ISSUE 10 EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN
Cover story by Abraham Saraya
ART
ISSUE 10
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EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN TABLE OF CONTENTS
Janelle Pietrzak Sunday Afternoon
Jim Huang Common Future
Armando Branco Leave Your Shoes at the Door
Shelee Carruthers The Fluid Art Revolution
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Aaron VIII Worship the Moon
Make Up Artist's Spotlight
Abraham Saraya Mexico Loves Russia
Farissan Rahadian Danery Poppy
SUBMISSIONS www.kavyar.com/fen-hong-se-magazine SUBMISSION GUIDELINES www.fenhongsemagazine.com/submissions/ QUARTERLY THEMES www.fenhongsemagazine.com/themes/
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Liandra Swim Fusing Sun, Surf and Culture
Beth Harris Bored in Suburbia
Lucy Alcorn Natural Beauty
Ultra Girl Music Feature
CONTACT / editor@fenhongsemagazine.com FACEBOOK / facebook.com/fenhongsemag INSTAGRAM / @fenhongsemag WEBSITE / www.fenhongsemagazine.com PINTEREST / fenhongsemag
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Adam Kafo Melancholy
Jewellery Spotlight When Jewels and Art Collide
Ruslan Kirsanov/ Ksenia Kudasova Metamorphoses. Rats
Gabby Griggs Sunshine on a Rainy Day
Sunday Afternoon PHOTOGRAPHER Janelle Pietrzak RETOUCHER Valerie Kor MODEL Claire Aly Dean
In an effort to promote sustainable fashion this entire editorial was styled with a private collection of vintage dresses and accessories.
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Common Future Common Future
PHOTOGRAPHER Jim Huang WARDROBE & HAIR STYLIST Lenard Johnston MUA Abbie Ahmed MODEL Branca AGENCY Unique Model Management VIDEOGRAPHER Amy Ha
This editorial fuses high-end brands with second-hand, repurposed clothing, to showcase that second-hand, redesigned clothing can look just as good as any high-end brands. Sustainable isnt a trend, but a lifestyle and we all need to make conscious decisions about the choices we make and the impact it has on our environment. So live it, wear it, repurpose and recycle it. - Lenard Johnston, Stylist
PLEASER gloves GUCCI headband TOM FORD glasses PUBLIC DESIRE boots KAYLA ROUSSELLE jacket WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ skirt
Opposite page: MISSGUIDED boots BIANCA LIMYIP dress LOUIS VUITTON choker WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ gloves CALVIN KLIEN leather bustier This page: PLEASER gloves PUBLIC DESIRE boots KAYLA ROUSSELLE skirt BIANCA LIMYIP headpiece WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ overalls
PLEASER gloves MISSGUIDED boots BIANCA LIMYIP dress WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ corset & choker
GUCCI cap MISSGUIDED boots PLEASER belt & gloves BIANCA LIMYIP top & shorts
GUCCI belt bag MISSGUIDED boots LOUIS VUITTON hat BIANCA LIMYIP pants KAYLA ROUSSELLE jacket WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ corset and gloves
CHANEL hat PUBLIC DESIRE boots BIANCA LIMYIP dress PLEASER belt & gloves WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ glasses
PLEASER gloves MISSGUIDED boots KAYLA ROUSSELLE jacket WHATZNAMEDEZYNZ glasses
Leave your shoes at the Door PHOTOGRAPHER Armando Branco STYLIST Patrick Hiemstra GROOMING Yolanda MODEL Tuyk AGENCY FIC Models
Opposite page: HIEM pants HIEM earring VINTAGE necklace STUDIO NOIJ leg sleeves VINTAGE MUGLER jacket This page: Left: COS shirt H&M pants ZARA boots DICKIES jacket STYLISTS OWN earring MICHAEL KORS umbrella STIAAN LOUW turtleneck
Opposite page: VANS pants H&M earring MONKI choker JOFEL VINTAGE blouse H&M EDITION sweater STYLIST'S OWN headband
This page: NIKE shoes HIEM scarf ZARA t-shirt MAX MARA shirt CARHARTT pants SABINE STAARRTJES earring
MONDI blazer LACOSTE t-shirt VINTAGE earrings STUDIO NOJI pants FROUSFROU’S sunglasses STYLIST’S OWN headband
ZARA t-shirt ADIDAS jacket ZARA sneakers VINTAGE necklace & earring AMARENS JOUSTRA shirt & pants
Opposite page: ZARA pants H&M earring GUCCI loafers GAASTRA turtleneck FROUSFROU’S sunglasses AMARENS JOUSTRA bodywarmer
This page: ZARA t-shirt HIEM tank top ZARA sneakers CLAIRE’S earring PUMA jacket & pants
Opposite page: ZARA pants HIEM t-shirt HIEM earring HUGO BOSS blazer STUDIO NOJI arm sleeves STYLIST’S OWN headband
This page: HIEM shirt H&M jacket HIEM earring VINTAGE ESCADA shorts AMARENS JOUSTRA baseball shirt
La Mer
THE Fluid Art Revolution
Australian artist Shelee Carruthers draws inspiration from the environment that surrounds her creating artworks that are fluid in nature. We chatted with Shelee about her inspirations, techniques and her collaboration with Dutch Designer Iris Van Herpen. You grew up on the East Coast of Australia. How did your upbringing here inspire or mould the artwork that you create? I originally painted in blues and coastal colours. I’ve always lived by the beach and I am always inspired by nature and the coastline especially where I grew up. My colour choices are much more varied, and I really don’t exclude any colours from my art these days! My mum was really big on having creative hobbies and introduced me to sketching and painting at an early age. I’m forever grateful for my mum’s influence, as now I have a career in the arts and it’s something i’m so passionate about. I feel so blessed as not many people get to wake up and go and do something they love every day.
I am absolutely inspired by our earth. Lots of fluid art styles resemble space, water, air, and other organic elements. Some images from outer space really do mirror resin or fluid acrylic pours! I also love how the ‘cells’ in my artwork look like bubbles floating in water. I feel that this gives my pieces that flow and energy that keeps the viewer intrigued as their eyes wander over the painting. As your work is inspired by nature, does the current state of the environment influence your art? If so, how? The state of the environment right now does influence me. I would say that the influence is based more on “How I can change the materials and products that I use in my fluid art, to reduce the impact on our environment and cut waste?” I’m making eco-friendly changes to reduce my impact and I hope to lead others in that same direction. A question that you are probably asked often but can you tell us a bit about how you came to create art in the way that you do. I had previously been making acrylic art with special effects. I used to mix different mediums together to create cracks and other effects in my artwork. I found after experimenting one day, that alcohol can make circular patterns when dropped into wet acrylic paint. This was very exciting for me and pushed me to explore further into this method. I discovered there was a strong community of fluid artists already out there, however, I could see that there was major room for improvement with the recipes. This is when my crazy, scientific style experiments began. After much trial and experimenting I began to see that my art was looking quite a bit different to many other fluid artists. I had
Iris van Herpen Couture SS20 Sensory Seas Illustration by Nastya Kuzmina
Your work is greatly inspired by nature and the landscapes that you are surrounded by, can you explain how you incorporate these inspirations into your art.
Perle de Mer
many other people approaching me asking me what my recipe was, and would I share it. I had created a unique style which is now known as the Sheleeart Fluid Art Blooms or as a broader term Sheleeart Style. Please tell us about your collaboration with Dutch Fashion Designer Iris Van Herpen and how it came about. It was mid-September 2019; I received an email in the middle of the night from Iris Van Herpen’s marketing assistant. September was already shaping up to be my biggest month ever in the history of Sheleeart. I had decided to launch and The Sheleeart online E-Course teaching the Sheleeart Fluid Art Blooms. Consequently, I was checking my emails at all hours of the day and night. This particular email dropped into my inbox the same week my course was due to launch. I was intrigued by this email, titled ‘Iris Van Herpen X Shelee Carruthers’. I regularly receive these collaboration offers, but there was something about this one that made me google Iris Van Herpen immediately. Let’s just say I couldn’t go back to sleep after seeing who she was, and how incredibly beautiful and artistic her creations were. I knew straight away that this was a collaboration I had to take part in. I could see what this potentially meant for me and my future in the art world. How do you seek out opportunities that benefit the process of your artwork being seen by the rest of the world? Many of the opportunities have come my way via social media. I’m certainly no Kardashian, but I do have a strong social media presence and actively post on Instagram, Youtube and Facebook. I also have a very active Sheleeart community Facebook group. I always consider all collaborations big and small, because everyone has to start somewhere and with the ever-changing pace of social media, who you say no to one week could be trending the next. The opportunities are certainly there for those who are willing. I’ve found that many of my students who have completed the course have taken their art to the next level. Consequently, they’ve skyrocketed their instagram following really quickly and because their works are so amazing we’re all riding the successful wave of the Sheleeart brand. I also have a real sense of pride and joy that I’ve been able to help with their pouring. For me personally, I love social media as it really does open up the playing field to anyone with great work and a social presence. My business has grown rapidly in these short months and at this point the small team that I have built are focused on delivering new products. What is your favourite artwork? My favourite artwork changes regularly. I can be totally in love with a piece and then I paint something that I love even more! It’s a little bit like, the revolving favourite piece. Much of it comes down to how successful my week of creating was. Right now, my favourite piece would be a big round timber board I painted. It’s a pink and blue floral- inspired paint pour. It was created on my home-made spinning machine! I love to make these different types of videos for my YouTube channel. The spinner was always popular on Instagram and now it’s appearing to be much the same on YouTube. Define Fluid Art. I would find it very hard to define fluid art in one article! The term fluid art represents any kind of wet, fluid medium or paint including epoxy resin and any paint that flows when you apply it. Fluid art has really grown in the past few years. This is simply because anyone can have a go at it, you don’t need training or a background in art, you just need to be creatively motivated and have sense of fun and a tolerance for mess!
WEBSITE www.sheleeart.com.au INSTAGRAM @sheleeart/ YOUTUBE Shelee Art FACEBOOK sheleeart PINTEREST sheleeart_
The Rainbow
Alarah
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Poisson Lion
Iris van Herpen Couture SS20 Sensory Seas Illustration by Nastya Kuzmina
DESIGNER Iris van Herpen STYLING Patti Wilson FOOTWEAR COLLABORATION Trippen MUA Chiao Li Hsu & the MAC PRO Team FRONTSTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY Gio Staiano BACKSTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY Molly SJ Lowe, Schohaja HAIR STYLIST Martin Cullen & Björn Axén | The Wall Group
Worship the Moon PHOTOGRAPHER Aaron VIII STYLIST Georgie Karr MUA Tracy Terashima HAIR STYLIST Adam Dyer @ Wildlife using Oribe GAFFER George Tsoutas MODEL Luna Mira Alldinger AGENCY Chic Management
ELENI TSOUTAS pants
OF RO by RACHAEL O’BRIEN dress
LILLIAN KHALLOUF top OF RO by RACHAEL O’BRIEN pants
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OF RO by RACHAEL O’BRIEN dress
OF RO by RACHAEL O’BRIEN dress
ALISSAR H top
Jen Bazzi
@makeupbyjenbazzi
NAME: Jen Bazzi LOCATION: Sydney, Australia How long have you been in the industry? 16 years! I studied Makeup when I was fresh out of school and thin eyebrows were a thing. What is your signature look? Heavily influenced by the 60's, it does really get my blood pumping however as a working artist I do try to be a chameleon and challenge myself to new season looks and trends. You really have to be good at it all. Definitely love dewy skin and a winged liner though don't make me choose! What are your 3 beauty do’s & don’ts Do always take the time to nurture your skin and body No matter how drunk you are, always wash that makeup off your skin before bed. Do your makeup however the hell you want if it makes you feel good! Don't follow any rules it's totally boring and uninspiring. Beauty Instagram profiles have become a major influence in the industry, what part does social media play for you? Instagram is definitely the platform I use the most. I use Instagram for inspiration and to stay on top of current trends and a great platform to follow all my makeup heroes. For me personally it is also a way for me to display my work. Thankfully Instagram wasn't around when I was doing frosted lips and twisted hairstyles though I'm sure it will be making a comeback shortly. Share 3 random facts about yourself. - Fear of wasps - Labyrinth film nerd - Prince & Bowie obsessed
Melinda Wenig @melindawenigmakeup
experience and a network to be able to eventually make a living from it full time. Lots of hours, determination, passion and hard work has got me to where I am now. Name 3 products that you can’t live without?
Full Name: Melinda Wenig Current Location: Sydney, Australia What is Beauty for you? Beauty for me is being comfortable in your own skin. Accepting that you are an individual, unique and you need to be happy with who you are on the outside before you’ll ever be happy on the inside. What do you love most about doing makeup? The challenge of using minimal makeup and seeing how amazing I can make someone look is probably one of my favourite things about makeup. Or how much you can change the appearance of someone’s look with makeup and in doing so, how good you can make someone feel about them self, that’s always rewarding. What has been the most challenging yet rewarding job that you have worked on? A runway show I did while in NYC, where I rocked up and was asked to head a team of 20 Makeup Artists on arriving for a day of Fashion Shows…. Crazy busy, really challenging and by the end of the day the team was down to 7 as the rest of the team couldn’t handle the fast pace. We got there in the end and it was great fun and a memory I’ll never forget. How did you get your start in the beauty industry? By complete accident, I was a corporate Travel consultant that was planning on doing a Makeup Course purely for my own personal life after having a terrible Wedding Makeup experience and thinking if I had a bit more knowledge I could have done it myself, saved a lot of money and been happier with the outcome. Little did I know that 2 weeks prior to my course starting I would quit my job as I had a ungrateful boss and then I was unable to get another travel job as I had worked out my hours of the course around work and no other travel job starting new would allow the flexibility…. so, I just decided I’d have to be a makeup artist! HA! And that was all the thought that went into it. I then went onto start on a Chanel counter, MAC and Napoleon as well as doing an absolute tonne load of free work and assisting to be able to gain knowledge,
I’m a pretty flexible makeup artist who forces myself not to use the same products all the time, as I feel each person really has different requirements, different skin type and different skin colours, so I don’t want to put anyone in the same category and say ‘oh I always use … as it’s not how I work. But, in saying that for myself I totally love my Skincare from David Dean’s and my Chanel Vitalumiere foundation.
Olga Gill MAKE UP ARTIST'S SPOTLIGHT
@olgagillmakeup
Full Name: Olga Gill Current Location: Sydney, Australia What was your first step into the beauty industry? Growing up in Russia as a teenager, I learnt from a young age how to put on my own eye liner and had a cosmetic bag full of different shades of lipsticks. In Russia it would be considered improper to go outside of your apartment without wearing any makeup, as if you are sick or not looking after yourself. I was studying music in Russia, but when I moved to New Zealand, I enrolled for a makeup course to learn how to do makeup professionally. It all went very fast from that time: while doing the course I started doing photoshoots with upcoming photographers, a few music videos and decided to turn all that fun into a career as a professional makeup artist. I don’t regret a minute of it. Why is having a MUA essential to a photographer when working on photographic editorials? When working on photographic editorials every member of the team is essential: photographer, stylist, hair-stylist, model, MUA – are all equally essential as we all bring our skills and experience to the shoot and work on a brief to pull the idea together to make the photoshoot successful. Makeup adds another crucial element of artistry to the shoot. Moreover, as a makeup artist, I use my skills to transform the face of the model and make the model to fit the brief. Lighting also affects colours, tones and skin texture – proper makeup will ensure that none of these details are lost as properly applied makeup will reflect light in the right places and will minimize any retouching that needs to be done in post-production. What inspires you? It could be anything, something I see or I hear, standing in front of a great painting or hearing the most amazing performance, watching a movie or looking through a magazine, travelling… I also get inspired by the face of a model, colours and textures of the outfits from the collection that we have to shoot and talented creatives that I know and work with.
How do you keep up with new trends or styles or do focus on creating individual looks? I’m always interested and following what is happening on the world’s runways, however I feel that in today’s world we are all very confident in who we are and it always comes to individual style and looks. When I work on a photoshoot, I create the look that best reflects the story. Name 3 items that you could not work without. It doesn’t matter what makeup look I will be doing, they all start with creating a great looking skin. In that case I will always have a good cleanser, moisturiser/hydration spray and a good skin primer.
Vic Anderson @vicanderson
NAME: Victoria Anderson LOCATION: Sydney, Australia How did you get into the Beauty Industry? When I was pregnant with my son we found out we were moving interstate due to my partner’s work. It was the perfect time for a career change! Having been to performing arts school and with a keen interest in theatre and performance, I knew that makeup artistry was for me! But it was meeting and assisting Rae Morris that really started me off in the industry. What element of being a MUA do you enjoy the most? I’d say it’s the variety. No job is the same. Each team varies. And I try to make a point of not doing the same look or use the same products each time. Making just a small change keeps things fresh, even if the brief is similar to other jobs! How does make up for editorial photography differ from everyday make up? There is definitely more freedom to push the boundaries in editorial and create a look that might not always be seen as classically beautiful. But on the flip side, sometimes the most impactful statement is the minimalist approach. There aren’t a lot of everyday clients who are happy with just clean skin, no mascara and a gloss highlight! What has been your most memorable job that you have worked on to date? I’d say working on the Zimmerman show at New York Fashion Week a couple of years ago was my most memorable. I’ve always wanted to work on shows overseas and the fact it was such an iconic Australian label was even more fulfilling Describe Make up Artistry in one sentence. Make Up Artistry is seeing the beauty in every face and knowing when to stop.
MEXICO LOVES RUSSIA This editorial story was made specifically for this issue. It was styled with designer pieces and local brands as well as recycled clothing from thrift stores and vintage stores. Shot in Mexico City.
PHOTOGRA
PHER / ART
DIRECTION Abraham S araya ASSISTANT Andres M. Z uleta STYLIST Ed uardo Corte s HMUA Fab ian Estay AGENCY P MODEL Ali aragon Mo sa del Manage ment
TETE ROSADO top NANE WEAR bodysuit STYLIST’S OWN accesories
ISELA COS trousers FABRICIO CAMO cape EILEEN GARCIA shoes STYLIST’S OWN earrings and socks
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STYLIST’S OWN belt NANE WEAR bodysuit @MGV shoes and pants
ANT BRAND boots STYLIST’S OWN trench and accessories DIEGO ALCAZAR necklace and handbag
SUPERSTICION top EILEEN GARCIA shoes ENRIQUE GARCIA dress STYLIST’S OWN earrings EILEEN GARCIA handbag
STYLIST'S OWN vintage accessories
Opposite page: VINTAGE dress WANTED SHOES boots BLOCH DANCE stockings This page: VINTAGE glasses MISS SHOP scarf DANGERFIELD dress BLOCH DANCE stockings
Poppy The 1960’s: the era of big hair, cool tones eyeshadow, blush, brushed brows, subtle lips and the most fashionable Sophia Lauren. This editorial story is inspired by these things, bringing them into the modern world and celebrating our love for this classic fashion trend. PHOTOGRAPHER Farissan Rahadian Danery STYLIST Chivonne Macfarlane HMUA Rie Micho Sakuma MODEL Poppy Saunders Gammon AGENCY FiveTwenty Management
PETAL & PUP dress MISS SHOP hair scarf
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RUBI shoes DENTS gloves DAMSEL + SILK dress
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RUBI boots MISS SHOP dress & top GREGORY LADNER head band
TOPSHOP top KOOKAI pants RUBI head band MISSGUIDED heels VINTAGE sunglasses
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ZARA top GREGORY LADNER earrings
FUSING SUN, SURF & CULTURE
LIANDRA SWIM
Liandra Swim was born when founder, Liandra Gaykamangu, wanted to highlight the versatility of Indigenous Australian culture. Having just gone on maternity leave, at the end of 2017, Liandra was determined to create something that would celebrate her culture and educate people. Liandra grew up spending most of her days swimming and surfing at the beach with her family. When reflecting upon her love of the ocean she decided to use swimwear fashion as a vessel to share stories of Indigenous Australia, as well as highlight the need for sustainable practices, for the longevity of our oceans and marine life. A self-taught designer, Liandra accidentally fell into her business when she was looking for a way to combine all the things she was passionate about - education, culture, the ocean and sustainability. Whilst Liandra is also a qualified English and History High School Teacher, she has found running her own business has been both challenging and hugely rewarding in a way she had never felt before. As a High School Teacher Liandra says “I absolutely loved being in the classroom. Seeing one of my students have that ‘light-bulb’ moment is truly magic. But, teaching in the traditional sense wasn’t for me.” This is when she decided to branch out and continue to educate people through a new method – swimwear fashion!
Starting her swimwear label, Liandra says it also gave her the opportunity to be more present for her family. “As a teacher I don’t think people realise the long hours you do. I was often marking long into the evening for my senior students. On top of that you also have reports to do and other school engagements like parent-teacher evenings and assemblies that fall outside our usual working hours. I was also travelling 2 hours a day to and from work, which really took its toll on me.” As a proud Yolngu woman, from North-East Arnhem Land, Liandra is honoured to highlight new narratives of Indigenous Australia. Each collection Liandra Swim choose a new diverse range of ground-breaking Indigenous women to name their designs after. This is done with the hope to enlighten and share the narrative of the individual with their customers, who in turn share their learned experience with family and friends. This grassroots movement is done in the hopes that one day many phenomenal Indigenous women will also become positive household names. Liandra Swim have a range of signature prints that are both bold in colour and story. Each of the prints on the reversible swimwear is infused with culture and is inspired by Indigenous Australia. Liandra digitally creates her prints to tell a story that she hopes resonates with the wearer’s connection to not only Australia, but also to Indigenous Australia. When speaking of the prints Liandra says that she “wants to allow people a new way to connect with culture… our brand celebrates Indigenous Australia, but our swimwear is for everyone. I want to take away the stigma around how, when and where Indigenous culture can or should be celebrated.” Liandra is passionate about having a business that is both ethical and sustainable to the core of its practices. It was very important to Liandra that her swimwear embodied her values. She not only wanted to celebrate her culture, but also raise awareness around the importance of being sustainable and eco-friendly. Liandra is currently working towards creating a brand that embodies this in every area possible.
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For Liandra Swim’s second collection the label was able to further achieve this goal, by incorporating packaging that is made from cassava plants, which are 100% eco-friendly and biodegradable. Liandra Swim swimwear is made from recycled plastics, by employees working under complete ethical working conditions. Modern fabric technology to truly stop plastics seeping into the ocean is not quite as advanced as we would hope. To be able to raise awareness of this issue Liandra uses her growing social media platforms to educate people on ways to minimise damage to the ocean and marine life. Juggling two small children and a growing business, the early days began as a tag-team effort between Liandra and her partner. Liandra recalls “having stalls weekend to weekend at various markets around Sydney and Wollongong … waking up early and packing the car not really knowing if it was going to be worth the effort.” However, it was those early days that helped to really iron out the kinks. Liandra said that being at markets allowed her to “have meaningful conversations with people” to share her mission, as well as show-off her high-quality swimwear and signature prints. It was the rich conversations at these markets that provided invaluable feedback, which Liandra used to enhance and grow her label.
WEBSITE: www.liandraswim.com INSTAGRAM: @liandraswim FACEBOOK: Liandraswim
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Bored in Suburbia
Bored in Suburbia, inspired by pinnacle coming of age films such as American Beauty, Stand by Me & Ghost World. It's reminiscent of those summers you spent trying on your friend’s mum’s clothes and creating catwalks and photoshoots. You’re hot, bored and the summer is never ending.
PHOTOGRAPHER Beth Harris STYLIST Kirsten Humphreys HMUA Lachlan Wignall MODEL Chloe Pearce AGENCY Kult Australia
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Opposite page: LIAXS Corset ELISKA MARCZAN LABEL Jumpsuit STYLIST’S OWN Shoes and accessories This page: LIAXS belt FABRIQUE VINTAGE pants and hat STYLIST’S OWN top, shoes and accessories
VINTAGE KENZO Singlet FABRIQUE VINTAGE bag HOLIDAY THE LABEL t-shirt STYLIST’S OWN pants, shoes and accessories
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Opposite page: FABRIQUE VINTAGE top ELISKA MARCZAN LABEL pants STYLIST’S OWN Shoes and accessories This page: VINTAGE KENZO jacket FABRIQUE VINTAGE swimsuit STYLIST’S OWN shoes and accessories
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NATURAL BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPHER Lucy Alcorn MUA Olga Gill ASSISTANT Yaz Zilwa MODEL Leila AGENCY IMG Models FLOWERS Merchant & Green
All products used are cruelty free
Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush • Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Urban Decay Electric • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
Left: Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Urban Decay Electric • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze. Middle: Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush • Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Urban Decay Naked Petite Heat eyeshadow palette • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush Cover FX Illuminating setting spray Eyes: Urban Decay Electric • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
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Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush • Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Danessa Myricks colour fix 24 hour cream Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush • Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Urban Decay Naked Petite Heat eyeshadow palette • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
Skin: The Ordinary. High-Spreadability Fluid Primer • Danessa Myricks Hydrating Facial Oil • Cover FX contouring and highlighting • Cover FX illuminating custom enhancer drops in sunlight & blossom • Danessa Myricks Lux Cream Blush • Cover FX Illuminating setting spray • Eyes: Urban Decay Naked Petite Heat eyeshadow palette • Lips: Danessa Myricks colour fix glaze
PHOTOGRAPHER Fernando Cattori
A chat ULTRA GIRL with Mariana de Miguel, better known as Girl Ultra, is an R&B artist from Mexico City. We had a quick chat with her about Superheroes, Music & Astrology.
Your stage name Girl Ultra has the vibe of a Super Hero. How did you come up with this name for your musical alter ego? I really wanted to find that empowerment in any way that was possible. I brainstormed words that could be related to a comic super heroine and then she was born. It just accentuates the stronger part of my personality. When did you start creating your own music? Probably it was at 15-16 when I gained a musical criterion and consciousness and started composing and being aware of melodies and progression. What was it about R&B that appealed to you most to create your sound in this genre? It was very present throughout my childhood and adolescence, and I found this particular ‘’gut feeling’’ and passion in it. Enchanted me since the beginning. What was it about R&B that appealed to you most to create your sound in this genre? It was very present throughout my childhood and adolescence, and I found this particular ‘’gut feeling’’ and passion in it. Enchanted me since the beginning. What motivates you to make music? Everything. Mostly human connections and emotions. What is the most poignant time in your life that has inspired you to write and make music? The love - hate passionate relationship I have with my city. Not belonging. Being scared. Can you tell us about a project that you are working on now? Currently I’m working on the tour for the first half of the year, and also collaborating here and there. Making a lot of music. In a past interview you spoke about how Astrology helps you make sense of both your Girl Ultra and real-world identities. Can you tell us a bit about that? I don’t know, I feel like astrologic assets come in handy when you have to develop an artistic persona and detach them from your truest self. Helps you see an estimate of the whole picture. 2020: What does this year bring for you? Lots of touring, lots of music and big decisions mostly.
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INSTAGRAM: www.instagram.com/girlultra FACEBOOK: girlultramusic TWITTER: www.twitter.com/grrrlultra SPOTIFY: Girl Ultra
Melancholy PHOTOGRAPHER Adam Kafo WARDROBE & HAIR STYLIST/DESIGNER Tamie Anthas MUA Ghada Nouh NAIL ARTIST Katya of Klaws by Katya ASSISTANT Chloe Mung MODEL Brittany AGENCY Five Twenty Model Management
Melancholy Top Asymmetrical bias cut panelling top made from second hand denim worn with Evangelion Bumsters Made from discarded denim fabric (purchased from Reverse Garbage store), and second hand denim jean using stencil and bonding technique.
Jitensha Dress Zero-waste panel bias-cut dress using 2 discarded street banners. (Sydney City Council - #sydneyrides)
Cryptographic Corset Top Bias-cut (panelled) corset made from second-hand men’s bestspoke suit jacket Gami Skirt Made from wearable recycled paper with hand painted Japanese cherry blossom and traditional poem.
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Melancholy Gown: Up cycled, bias-cut gown made from second hand denim, worn with acrylic obi and bow (purchased from Reverse Garbage store).
Melancholy Gown Up-cycled, bias-cut gown made from second-hand denim, worn with acrylic obi and bow (purchased from Reverse Garbage store).
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Natsu Dress Asymmetrical dress made from vary of second-hand sport jersey tops.
Tori Jean Tee Up-cycled, bias-cut top made from second-hand denim Gami Skirt Made from wearable recycled paper with hand painted Japanese cherry blossom and traditional poem.
Melancholy Top Asymmetrical bias cut panelled top made from second-hand denim Evangelion Bumsters Made from discarded denim fabric (purchased from Reverse Garbage store), and second-hand denim jean using stencil and bonding technique.
When Art and Jewels Collide A collaboration between artists Jodee Knowles and Gerard Cranney and Australian sustainable jewellery designers
Interviewed by Jodee Knowles Sculptures designed and created by Jodee Knowles and Gerard Cranney of FATHER SUPERIOR
PHOTOGRAPHER Chris Polak
Estelita Huijer What sets your pieces apart from other labels? All of my pieces are handmade by myself and one-off. I usually use recycled and unique materials with the aim to make rare statement pieces that are eye catching and different from the norm. Explain your interpretation on sustainability and how you incorporate this view into your designs. I believe there is way to much waste in this world and I aim to make my creations to change people’s views on waste. An example would be making mini handbags from vintage Levi’s jeans. What kinds of materials work together and which ones do not? Hard question to answer as I try and be as inventive as possible and love using contradicting/conflicting elements that I can make work together in a practical sense but still beautiful visually. WEBSITE www.estelitahuijer.com INSTAGRAM @estelitahuijer FACEBOOK estelitahuijer
Which are your favourite pieces to create: Custom or one-off? Both! Collaboration is a key focus in my work and taking on custom/one-off or commissioned pieces are often the most rewarding. You’re coming in there with your distinct style and what you do, and then you’re listening to another creative’s idea of what they envisage, and you’re amalgamating the two energies, bringing something new into the world. Where do you source your materials from? In my quest to make and sell ethical and handmade jewellery, I work with suppliers who source only from ethical locations around the world. Every single one of my crystals and cut stones which I use in crafting my designs are hand chosen for their unique beauty and point of difference. They are from sellers who support ethical mining and fair trade. The products I source are not cheap, and not available in huge quantities. Hence why my supply rate and volume is limited, niche and bespoke. I wholeheartedly believe in the healing properties of crystals and mineral specimens. I source from suppliers who are aware of the importance of ethical crystal mining, the impact on the planet, and on the crystal itself. Hence, small batch, traceable, transparent, and in considered quantity. I monitor the handling, storing and shipping of my crystals, to ensure that the utmost care is taken to preserve and not tamper with their natural energetic vibration. I also cleanse all of my crystals before working with them and turning them into jewellery. I can also use clients recycled gold as material for bespoke creations, in addition to using heirloom stones - de-setting and resetting. I Lost Wax Cast all of my work, through 2 local businesses based in Melbourne. What sets your pieces apart from other labels? I created ÎMMØRTALË to a large extent, out of frustration – I was never able to find pieces that embodied my personal style. ÎMMORTALË has been a lot about bringing to life this core concept i’ve had in my mind about personal adornment. ÎMMØRTALË is something that manifested through the idea of timeless pieces, like modern day jewels, heirlooms... but with a twist. Post-luxury pieces for cool kids to treasure. At it’s core, it is celestial and ethereal, unisex, powerful. It’s all about transmutation and metamorphosis. Individuality. Each and every single piece carved by hand. The pieces feel powerful to wear. Like urban armour. Talismans. Continuing to evolve, the aesthetic morphs and moves with the wearer. It’s malleable but also grounded in it’s strong presence. Sophisticated. Gangster. Urban. Ethereal. Occult.
What kinds of materials work well together? I am a big fan of breaking the rules with mixed metals. Combining both Gold and Silver, layering and wearing a big mix of jewels in curated chaos. I love combining rebellious textures and bold stones with bold metals - juicy red Rubies clashing with rich yellow Gold, for example. In total honesty, I love a challenge using unlikely materials. The weirder and wilder the custom brief, the more I vibe with it. From a technicality/ practicality sense - in engagement piece custom creations, I will always advise not to use Sterling Silver, or 24 Carat Gold. Due to their softness and malleability. They will erode and lose their textural nuance far quicker with that everyday wear. How do you know when a piece is done? My aesthetic trajectory is honestly very intuitive and grounded. The only real ambiguity I may experience in clarity, to ensure the creation is not overworked, is when the piece is in it’s wax form, I can get carried away in the lost-wax casting process, purely because I find it so meditative and cathartic. Drawing that clean line between the completion of the design, and obsessiveness for perfection is blurred sometimes. I fully trust my makers judgement when it comes to all elements of conceptual design and executing aesthetic edits.
WEBSITE www.immortalejewellery.com INSTAGRAM @immortale.jewellery
Danielle Knowles Tell us about your design style. What makes your pieces unique in the industry? My style is best summed up as spontaneous. As I don't specify set out to design anything in particular when I start, it’s the process that gives birth to my pieces. As a designer, where do you draw inspiration from? My sister Jodee who I most look up to. she is so driven In what she wants in life and she works so hard for it and she gets it. Her encouragement kindness and passion towards people is the reason I feel my work is at the level it is now! My son Jesse is a huge part of my inspiration. He and I often sit down and collaborate while he is drawing and I am making jewellery so in turn he helps make me creatively think outside of the box. 3 random facts about yourself. I Collect vintage Coca-Cola memorabilia , I love fireworks and i'm extremely impatient. What piece of jewellery you can't live without? That's easy- earrings! I don't feel confident walking out the door without them! Made to order, commissions and enquires contact: danielle.87@live.com.au
Lola Lister What sets your pieces apart from other labels? They're unique, handcrafted, and they’re not easily acquired. Explain your interpretation on sustainability and how you incorporate this view into your designs? i am always thinking of ways to work in more harmony with other people and the earth. i respect the materials i work with, which is why i take my time to create each piece by hand, slowly and with intention. taking my time and not over producing is my way of being a part of a slow fashion movement. you can’t simply jump online and buy my pieces at a whim. When did you realise that you wanted to pursue a career in design? i’ve never realised this, i’ve always made things. it’s as natural to me as breathing. Tell us about the core principles that you instill into your label, what is the common thread that runs through all your designs. Watching things grow is an extremely important process to me. i like knowing that the maker is not exploited in the name of crafting beautiful things. What piece of jewellery you can't live without? My earrings, whether i’ve made them or not. INSTAGRAM @lolalister
As a designer, where do you draw your inspiration from? I draw inspiration from everywhere. As a teenager i heavily inspired by renaissance artists such as Caravaggio and Da Vinci and antique medical and anatomical diagrams and illustrations. I went through a serious obsession with surrealism too so I think the macabre and whimsical are always present in my work. I get inspired by things I see, by conversations with friends, by antique and vintage jewelry and objects I collect on my journeys. It’s hard to pin point it, I wish I knew because if I did I’d be at that well more often.. How do you evoke an emotional response to your designs? My designs are brave and often bold and they do evoke a strong emotional response but it’s the wearer that would have to answer that question. Each item is as unique as its owner. Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections stand out in the industry? We create everything in house and I carve each piece from scratch so they aren’t mass produced. It’s very much a badass bespoke jewelry atelier. Clients are welcome to visit and see us in action. It’s an extraordinary experience here. What kind of person wears your jewellery? Everyone can wear Heart of Bone. We don’t have a type. What is the most favourite piece you’ve ever created – what made it so unique? My favorite piece so far is the black diamond pavè set MALEFICENT ring. It’s set with 500 diamonds and I wear the prototype every day and have done for 5 years. If you could go back in time and tell yourself one thing, what would it be? Don’t ever try and fit into anyone else’s box. Don’t make yourself smaller to make others feel comfortable. Life is too short. Just be yourself and the rest will work itself out along the way. WEBSITE www.heartofbone.com INSTAGRAM @heartofbone_ FACEBOOK Heart of Bone
PHOTOGRAPHER Ruslan Kirsanov ILLUSTRATOR Ksenia Kudasova VIDEOGRAPHER Vadim Panasiuk PRODUCER Anastasia Petrova STYLIST Sergey Ruban MUA Elizaveta Valueva MODEL Valeriya Komagorkina DESIGNER Because.msk Thank you to the shelter for the animals, who kindly provided the rats for the project - Yuna Center
Metamorphoses. Rats This digital collage project fixes the stages of the genetic mutation of a Human being into a Rat for the sake of the New Perfect Species. This art experiment is a new vision of an old idea of our possible Post Apocalyptic Future.
....The first experiments on combining the oldest genomes of rat and human. Design appearance in order to create the New Ideal species that can survive with rapidly deteriorating ecology........ The project is started, the first results of the Will a new species value our Planet more? Can survive and find (or create) Shambala? cross appear. Scientists hope to solve the environmental issue on Earth .............The new species is under surveillance. Scientists are trying to find a balance between
only concerned with its appearance and is not shows interest in science, art, effective communication with surrounding and breeding. The experiment is closed.
external beauty and benefits to humanity.......... Transformation is progressing. Will there be a way back? ......... X-ray. Studying the forms of new creatures, their way of
thinking, their values ............... Does the change of appearance mean the preservation of previous social values? ................ Scientists conclude that the most important thing in the society of the future is Being A Real Man, not a New Ideal
Being. Genome mutation has led to irreversible consequences in the appearance and complete degradation of internal values.The new creature is antisocial. It is
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Sunshine on a Rainy Day PHOTOGRAPHER Gabby Griggs STYLIST/DESIGNER Kate Lavender MUA Rujika Sapkota ASSISTANT Clare Lavender MODEL Claire Adema AGENCY Bella Management
Shot on location at Reverse Garbage in Sydney's Inner West, a recycling business that takes in about 100 football fields’ worth of scraps and materials each year. This editorial was styled by Sydney designer Kate Lavender featuring her 2019 FDS Graduate Collection alongside quirky pieces picked up at local Vintage and Op Shops like The Very Bazaar located in Penrith.
EAT ME DO scarf KATE LAVENDER dress TASS AND POM earrings
ASOS boots DISCOUNT UNIVERSE top COLETTE HAYMAN earrings MARKET PURCHASED repurposed fabric skirt STYLIST’S OWN recycled plastic bags woven shawl
DYSPNEA fluffy top KATE LAVENDER pinafore GROOVIE GHOUL earrings MAD BUT MAGIC tinsel sweatshirt
KATE LAVENDER jacket TASS AND POM earrings DISCOUNT UNIVERSE top CHARLI XCX X BOOHO cuffs MEADHAM KIRCHHORF scarf
LOVISA earrings DYSPNEA fluffy dress KATE LAVENDER top and skirt
KATE LAVENDER top THE VERY BAZAAR bag A V ROBERTSON dress GROOVIE GHOUL earrings JESSIE SHAW short sleeve tulle top DAYS OF AUGUST customised with safety pins
DYSPNEA fluffy top KATE LAVENDER pinafore GROOVIE GHOUL earrings MAD BUT MAGIC tinsel sweatshirt
NASTY GIRL dress SKINNY DIP LONDON bag ASOS checkered slip dress THE RAGGED PRIEST dress KATE LAVENDER mesh top GRANDMA FUNK jewellery HONG KONG STREET MARKET jacket
CONTRIBUTORS OF ISSUE 10 PAGES 3 – 8 SUNDAY AFTERNOON Location: LA, USA P: Janelle Pietrzak I: @janellepietrzakphoto M: Claire Aly Dean I: @clairealydean DESIGNERS FEAT: Vintage pieces PAGES 9 - 20 COMMON FUTURE (BACK COVER) Location: New Zealand P: Jim Huang I: @brickandjim_official HS/WS: Lenard Johnston I: @lenardjohnston MUA: Abbie Ahmed I: @abbieahmed V: Amy Ha I: @_amyha M: Branca I: @brankap03 @uniquemodelmanagement DESIGNERS FEAT: @chanelofficial @publicdesire @biancalimyip_ @pleasershoes Missguided Whatznamedezynz @gucci @louisvuitton @tomford @calvinklein @krouss_fashion PAGES 21 - 30 LEAVE YOUR SHOES AT THE DOOR Location: The Netherlands P: Armando Branco I: @armandobranco_fic S: Patrick Hiemstra @patrickhiemstra_ I: @patrickhiemstra_ HMU: Yolanda I: @jdo_academy M: Tuyk I: @tuykdider @fashion_is_cannibalistic DESIGNERS FEAT: @patrickhiemstra_ @zara @vans @jofelvintage @monki @gobritain026 @hm @dickies @michaelkors @stiaanlouw @cosstores @zara @boss @studio_noij @frousfrousvintage @amarens.y @gucci @muglerofficial @maxmara @nike @carharttwip @puma @clairesstores @adidas @escadaofficial @lacoste PAGES 31 - 38 THE FLUID ART REVOLUTION ARTIST FEATURE: SHELEE CARRUTHERS W: www.sheleeart.com.au I: @sheleeart YT: Shelee Art FB: sheleeart P: sheleeart_ PAGES 39 - 48 WORSHIP THE MOON Location: Sydney, Australia P: Aaron VIII I: @aaron__viii S: Georgie Kar I: @georgiekar HS: Lenard Johnston I: @lenardjohnston MUA: Adam Dyer @ Wildlife I: @adam__dyer @wildlifehairsydney G: George Tsoutas I: @georgetsoutas M: Luna Mira Alldinger I: @lunaxmira @chicmanagement DESIGNERS FEAT: @elenitsoutas @alissarh___ @of_ro_ @lilliankhallouf
PAGES 49 - 52 MAKE UP ARTIST'S SPOTLIGHT Olga Gill I: @olgagillmakeup Melinda Wenig I: @melindawmakeup Jen Bazzi I: @makeupbyjenbazzi Vic Anderson I: @vicanderson
PAGES 53 - 62 RUSSIA LOVES MEXICO (FRONT COVER) Location: Mexico City, Mexico P/AD: Abraham Saraya I: @abrahamsaraya A: Andres M. Zuleta I: @andres.marzul S: Eduardo Cortes I: @@lalo_cortez HMUA: Fabian Estay I: @Fabianaestaymua M: Alisa I: @alisamodel @Paragonmodelm DESIGNERS FEAT: @kikegarher @eileengarciamx @supersticionmx @nanewear @teterosadomexico @ant.officialbrand @diegoalcazarf @mgvbrand @fabriciocamo @iselacos @opheliasr @plyshowroom @calexicoshowroom
PAGES 93 - 102 MELANCHOLY Location: Sydney, Australia P: Adam Kafo I: @kafofoto S/HS: Tamie Anthas I: @tamieanthas_stylist HMU: Ghada Nouh I: @ghadanouhofficial NA: Katya I: @klawsbykatya A: Chloe Mung I: @oreomcflow M: Brittany I: @brittanyjhamilton @fivetwentymgt DESIGNERS FEAT: @digitalkittn_ @sno3483
PAGES 63 - 70 POPPY Location: Sydney Australia P: Farissan Rahadian Danery I: @farissanrd S: Chivonne Macfarlane I: @theshort.stylist HMU: Rie Micho Sakuma I: @riesakuma.mua M: Poppy Saunders Gammon I: @poppynsg @fivetwentymgt DESIGNERS FEAT: @dangerfieldclothing Miss Shop @blochau Gregory Ladner Rubi @zara @sportsgirl Levante @wantedshoes @kookai_australia Dents @damselthelabel @petalandpup PAGES 71 - 74 DESIGNER FEATURE: LIANDRA SWIM Location: Australia W: www.liandraswim.com I: @liandraswim PAGES 75 - 80 BORED IN SUBURBIA Location:Sydney Australia P: Beth Harris I:@_bethxharris S: Kirsten Humpreys I: @kirstenhumphreys HMU: Lachlan Wignall I: @lachlan_hair M: Chloe Pearce I: @chloepearce___ @Kultaustralia DESIGNERS FEAT: @eliska.marczan.label @l.iaxs @kenzo @fabriquevintage @holiday_the_label PAGES81 - 88 NATURAL BEAUTY Location: Sydney Australia P: Lucy Alcorn I: @lucy_alcorn HMU: Olga Gill I: @olgagillmakeup A: Yaz Zilwa I: @y.zilwa M: Leila I: @leila.mathieson @imgmodels FLOWERS FEAT: @merchantandgreen
PAGES 89 - 92 MUSIC FEATURE: GIRL ULTRA Location: Mexico City, Mexico I: @girlultra FB: girlultramusic T: grrrlultra SPOTIFY: Girl Ultra
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PAGES 103 - 110 WHEN ART AND JEWELS COLLIDE ARTIST/JEWELLERYFEATURE A: Jodee Knowles and Gerard Cranney I: @creon @jodee_knowles @fathersuperiorlabel JEWELLERY DESIGNERS FEATURED: @lolalister @estelitahuijer @heartofbone_ @immortale.jewellery @danigirl7227 PAGES 111 - 118 METAMORPHOSES. RATS Location: Sydney Australia P: Ruslan Kirsanov I: @ruslankirsanov A: Ksenia Kudasova I: @ ksenia.koo S: Sergey Ruban I: @ruban_sergey HMU: Elizaveta Valueva I: @liza.valueva CD: Anastasia Petrova I: @ anastassia.rk V: Vadim Panasiuk I: @ vadim.panasiuk M: Valeriya Komagorkina I: @va_1eri_ya DESIGNERS FEAT: Because Moscow PAGES 119 - 129 SUNSHINE ON A RAINY DAY Location: Sydney, Australia P: Gabby Griggs I: @gabbygriggs_photography S/D: Kate Lavender I: @katelavender_label, @katelavender_stylist MU: Rujika Sapkota I: @ps_rujika A: Clare Lavender I: @clare_mosaicworks M: Claire Adema I: @claireadema @bellatalentmanagement DESIGNERS FEAT: @tassandpom @ eatmedo Mad But Magic Jessie Shaw A V Roberston @dyspnea_ @groovieghouldesigns @theverybazaar @asos @boohoo @discountuniverse @colettebycolettehayman @nastygal Meadham Kirchoff @theraggedpriest @skinnydiplondon @imakestagram @grandmafunk_ @lovisajewellery
Pg 21 - 30
ISSUE 10 EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN
FASHION
BEAUTY
MUSIC
Cover story by Jim Huang
ART