BACK TO BASICS ISSUE VII
LMFF2012 / KARTON / SCULPTED / SHAUN KIRK
FACE OF FJOR
To celebrate our forth co Issue, we want yo We are looking for a fr campaign to celebr TO ENTER, ITS AS EASY
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Take a picture of yourself. We’re looking for everyday beauty. NO PROFESSIONAL SHOTS
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Upload it to our facebook page facebook.com/FJORDEMAG
W W W. FAC E B O O K .
RDE CAMPAIGN
oming NATURAL BEAUTY ou to be a part of it. esh face to head up our rate everyday beauty.
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GET CAMPAIGING THE MORE LIKES YOU HAVE THE BETTER CHANCE YOU HAVE TO:
CO M / FJ O R D E M AG
WIN
THE COVER OF OUR NATURAL BEAUTY ISSUE & AN 8 PAGE PHOTO EDITORIAL
FJ O R D E
CONTENTS
EMERGING MELBOURNE
PENTHOUSE MOUSE
Exposing Local Fashion
KARTON
Away from the glitz and glam of LMFF
NATIONAL GRADUATE SHOWCASE
Unique, affordable and importantly, recyclable furniture for tomorrow
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THE (NEARLY) NAKED TRUTH
LMFF 2012 INDEPENDENT RUNWAY
What are you wearing under your clothes
The new generation of young designers
SCULPTED
For any art lover or sculpture enthusiast. 99 works that must be seen EDITOR’S DESK
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CREATIVE DESK
13
NY CORRESPONDENCE
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MELBOURNE WRAP UP
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HOW TO: JEANS
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FJORDE STYLE
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REINVENTING FASHION
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EASTER WONDERLAND
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SPIRITUALIS GALAXIA
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WHAT’S NEW IN MELBOURNE
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COBY GRANT SOUL FOOD
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STOCKISTS
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SINGING THE BLUES
A voice as deep and raw as burnt caramel, and the talent to be a band on his own
THE LOCAL FISH WRAPPER An Aussie staple for any time of year
COVER Photographer Jon Lee Hairstyling Vladimir S. Barski Make Up Justine Bruers Model Ana Kingsley [Mark Fitzgerald] Wearing Mina & Katusha Renaissance Shirt $179.90
J1
I AM A REVOLUT1ON
I AM THE NEW NIKON 1. I am unique. With two powerful image processing engines to deliver full resolution images at 60 FPS, a revolutionary super high-speed autofocus system that boasts 73 focus points, Full (1080p) HD movie recording, Motion Snapshot that simultaneously records a slow motion movie and a still image to make your pictures come alive and Smart Photo Selector to help you capture the best possible picture. I am 1 click ahead. mynikonlife.com.au
FJ O R D E
CO N T R I B U TO R S
EDITORS
CREATIVE DIRECTORS
CREATIVE DIRECTORS
Alex Cybulska Ben Anderson
Jamie Li Patrick Price
FJORDE Graphics Marguerite Moloney
CONTRIBUTORS
PHOTOGRAPHY
MAKE-UP & HAIR
Anita Calavetta Claire Story Emily Collie James Banham Lauren Roberts Kristina Bond Nadia Draga Rachel Farah Regan Brantley Sonia Khan
Eva Mueller Filip Konikowski Jamie Li Jessie Obialor Jon Lee Megan Harding Mark Peterson Woodrow Wilson
Kati Di Mascio Parissa Andreou Justine Bruers
STYLING Ben Anderson Maurizio Laino Vladimir S. Barski
ADVERTISING Contact Jamie Li or Patrick Price
CONTACT US
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alex Cybulska alex.cybulska@fjordemagazine.com
CREATIVE DIRECTORS
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
Jamie Li jamie.li@fjordemagazine.com
enquiries@fjordemagazine.com
Patrick Price pa.price@fjordemagazine.com
SUBMISSIONS FJORDE accepts submissions from freelance artists, photographers, designers and journalists, however, we cannot reply to every submission. Please see www.fjordemagazine.com for submission guidelines.
Fjorde Magazine will assume no responsibility for consequences that may result in the use of, or reliance on, the published information. No responsibility is taken for the content, images or advertisements. No part of Fjorde magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Copies of this publication may not be sold. The opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publishing staff. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without the permission of the publishers. Articles received with no name, address and phone number(s) will not be published. Articles received will only be published by approval of the editorial team. Fjorde Magazine reserves the right to shorten and or edit received articles and letters. Fjorde Magazine does not accept responsibility on articles written by various columnists and writers
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I AM 1 CLICK AHEAD
FJ O R D E
E D I TO R ’ S D E S K
LE T T E R F R O M THE E DITO R :
SOME SERIOUS SHIT
And just like that, it was over. So many months of anticipation leading up to the grand opening of L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival and now, with regret, it’s finished. Yes, LMFF means tottering around in sky-high heels trying not to twist your ankle, hours pouring over what to wear daily and a constant feeling of resentment for the models on stage, but it’s just so much FUN.
These fresh-faced designers at the National Graduate Showcase showed us clothing with so much emotion and spirit that a few minutes on the catwalk did not do them justice. As Paul Cezanne said, “A work of art which did not begin in emotion is not art.”
Melbourne really showed itself as a culture hub for all things fashion and we’ve spent the last few weeks swept up in the intricacies of design and what’s hot this Melbourne really turned it up this year, minute. So for Issue 8 of your fashion bible, with many of our old friends showcasing FJORDE, we’ve gone right back down to their work and a myriad of new designers gracing the runway. We saw new collections the basics – lingerie, eco-friendly furniture, from Kings of Carnaby, Dita Von Teese and soul food and the evolution of fashion. Right where it all began. camilla and marc. And were besotted with NKOTB Ju Young Seo, Rica Hardian and There’s even an article about fashion back Natalia Grzybowski – all of whom have to the future – so in true corny quote style contributed to this issue. let me end with Dr. Emmett Brown’s wise words (which I’m applying to the rise in popularity of FJORDE), “If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you’re gonna see some serious shit.”
ALEX CYBULSKA
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DITA SAYS: “I think as women you want to fit into a certain number or size, and you really have to discover what your true size is, I used to buy extra small panties, and then I realized extra small was like riding up, so now I just buy medium or small and cut the tag off the bottoms, so I think it’s important to not think oh I have a size, really if it fits buys it, get what fits”
AUTUMN 2012
CREATIVE DESK:
BACK TO BASICS
With the glitz and glamour of Fashion Week still fresh in the night air, and as the commotion of fashion, music and beautiful individuals lingers on into the cultural program. It is easy to forget the little things in life that make it so much sweeter. In that spirit we head back to basics this issue to that creative inspiration that sparks it all. From fashion to food, the basics are where it all begins and where better to start than the independent and graduate designers of tomorrow. We explore what’s happening around town, taking a peek into the new and exiting ventures that have popped up over the last few months.
From L’Oreal to Emerging Melbourne we take a closer look at what’s been happening in Melbourne and take you back to the simpler things that can make everything seem better. The basics of life are often the simplest of things whether it is a note from the one you love, your favourite take out or just sleeping in. its always good to remember that no matter those stresses of life and work. It’s always good to take the time to smell the preverbal roses and get out there to check out what’s happening around your neighborhood.
BEN ANDERSON
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FJ O R D E
NY CORRESPONDENCE
Photography Eva Mueller
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AUTUMN 2012
OUMLIL FALL 2012 HASHIM OUMLIL A YOUNG AND INSPIRING MENSWEAR DESIGNER FLOURISHING THROUGH THE RANKS OF THE NEW YORK FASHION SCENE. HAVING RECENTLY RELEASED HIS SPRING/SUMMER 2013 OFFERING RESOLVE, SHOWCASING HIS ABILITY TO COMBINE INNOVATIVE LINES WITH A FRESH COLOUR PALETTE.
Written By: Ben Anderson Hashim Oumlil a young and inspiring menswear designer flourishing through the ranks of the New York fashion scene. Having recently released his Spring/Summer 2013 offering RESOLVE, showcasing his ability to combine innovative lines with a fresh colour palette. When asked about his thinking behind this new collection, he said he wanted to portray optimism and innovation during a stagnate and uninspired time in which we live. Going on he explained that the pleats are a form of expression about complexity that is often viewed as negative whereas it should be a source of finding what greats things lay beneath our surfaces. The deep pleat with contrast fabric on the pants continues to
bridge our deep traditional values with our need to look forward and to grow into our own selves. Finally, the bold colors for fall in acid yellow and deep purple are signals for a need for mood change amidst the greys and blacks. Indeed a man with an understanding of refined men’s fashion, he seamless exudes classic lines with modern sophistication. Creating timeless pieces he demonstrates there is still refinement in men’s fashion and while the jeans and the tee will always have their place. There will always be room for the perfectly cut suit, pleats and all. Oumlil is definitely one to watch out for. To see more from this innovative menswear designer head to www.oumlil.com
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FJ O R D E
MELBOURNE WRAP UP
ALL ON SHOW BY: EMILY COLLIE
The first few months of the year are always jam packed with action in Melbourne-town… Between new seasons collection launches, warehouse sales and short stay pop-up shops; there are certainly plenty of fashion events to fuel your system! A quick visit to the Big Apple (aka New York) and San Francisco in February saw me miss out on lots that was happening, however the following events certainly made it on my ‘must attend’ list!
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O P S M
S U N S H I N E
T O U R
OPSM took all the best bits of summer - outdoor fun, amazing sunglasses and delicious ice cream - and put them on a tour! The OPSM Sunshine Tour visited Etihad Stadium on Friday February 17, in conjunction with the launch of the 2012 AFL NAB Cup season. The stop was only one amongst many here in Melbourne and on their nation-wide journey in a retro, remodeled ice cream van. I had the pleasure of being invited along to experience all the style and outdoor fun while the OPSM crew handed out free ice creams and sunglass vouchers to the people of Australia, who in turn got snapped in some beautiful sunglasses in the hope of becoming the face of OPSM for summer! On display were the latest collections of sunglasses, including Burberry, Ray-Ban, Vogue, DKNY, Ralph, Versace, Oakley, Dolce & Gabbana, Persol, and Prada. The professional photos of real Australians were used to create a Facebook photo album of everyone in their choice of sunglasses. In a very creative social media campaign, which generated plenty of interest across the streets and beaches of Australia, the most liked photo would then become the face of OPSM for summer. The fourmonth campaign wrapped up in mid-March with the announcement of the Face of OPSM Summer 2012, Dimitri Kappatos. You can relive moments from the Tour, as well as view the winning shot through video highlights on the OPSM youtube channel and facebook page.
AUTUMN 2012
MYER AW 2012 COLLECTION LAUNCH O F F I C A L L A U N C H O F “ G R E A T ” On Friday 16 March, the GREAT campaign in Melbourne was officially launched at Crown Casino. The campaign celebrates the best of GREAT Britain around the globe – British fashion, British motorsport and British food to name a few things and reinforces Britain as a top tourism and business destination ahead of the celebrations for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games.
On March 1, Myer launched its Autumn Winter 2012 collection at Mural Hall (located above the Myer Melbourne store in Bourke Street). Brands featured on the evening included Ellery, Toni Maticevski, Sass and Bide, Magdalena Velevska, Yeojin Bae and new labels in the Myer fam¬ily, Auton¬omy and Mor¬ri¬son. Myer ambassadors Jennifer Hawkins, Jessica Hart and Kris Smith walked the runway in front of the many lines of guests, which included media, photographers and Australian celebrities SarahJane Clarke and Heidi Mid¬dle¬ton (Sass and Bide), Geof¬frey and Brynne Edelsten, Kate and Tom Waterhouse and Michael and Lindy Klim,
Kate Peck and Francesa Cumani were among two of the names to attend the launch, dressed in British fashion label Burberry, in support of GREAT British Fashion. The Australian launch followed the campaign’s 2012 debut in New York City, fronted by fashion icon Victoria Beckham who celebrated the best of British fashion to coincide with New York Fashion week. The Melbourne event also celebrated the best of British Motorsport to coincide with the F1 Grand Prix.
The Myer AW cam¬paign “New Age Har¬vest”, came alive with masses of metallic golds, neutrals and pops of colour. As you would expect in Melbourne, black was present throughout the entire show and will continue to be a staple during the colder months. My favourite trend for the new season would have to be ‘sequins’. Because a little bit of sparkle will always brighten your winter days!
Photography Jessie Obialor W W W. FJ O R D E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
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H O W TO : F I N D T H E P E R F E C T PA I R O F J E A N S
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AUTUMN 2012
H OW TO :
FIND THE PERFECT PAIR OF JEANS. By Lauren Roberts
With such an overwhelming variety of jeans out there, it can become daunting trying on 167 pair of jeans to inevitably settle for a pair that ‘doesn’t look too bad’. It’s a massive problem, and as such FJORDE has come up with a comprehensive guide to denim and who should wear what.
SUPER SKINNY JEANS
Suit those with a petite or hourglass figure. It hugs the frame and gives the illusion of longer legs. Beware with these jeans though… they’re a privilege, not a right!
BOYFRIEND JEANS
Great on ruler shaped women because the baggy fit gives the illusion of curves where there often is none.
SKINNY JEANS
Suits those with petite or hourglass figures as it flatters their curves and makes them look taller. Girls with a ruler shape also look amazing in slim jeans because it doesn’t hug to the body everywhere and often gives the impression of a more curvaceous body shape.
STRAIGHT LEG JEANS Ideally suited to women with a ruler body shape. The slim but loose fit gives women shape. FLARES
Pear shaped women and fuller figured women suit flares as the base balances out their hips. The more exaggerated 70s inspired flares look incredible on curvy tall women because it shows off their legs.
BOOTCUT JEANS
Looks best of girls with a filler figure, pear shape or hourglass figure. This sort of style evens out the curves on these women’s bodies and makes them look taller. Image Courtesy of JAM JEANS
Look fantastic on petite girls and those with an hourglass figure. The hugging material makes the beautiful curves on these women stand out and gives the illusion of longer legs. Tall women look great wearing skinny jeans.
SLIM FIT JEANS
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emer
MELBO
“exposing lo now
melbourne central . level 1 . 300 lon www.emergingmelbourne.com | fa
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OURNE
ocal fashion� open
ndsdale street . melbourne vic 3000 acebook.com/emergingmelbourne
FJ O R D E
FJ O R D E S T Y L E
FJORDE Style WHAT FJORDE IS LOVING RIGHT NOW
BY CLAIRE STORY
LEOPARD PRINT Monica Ainley of Avenue 32 pulls off the leopard print look with a touch of classic elegance, adding a 50s/60s Mod vibe. This print-with-attitude is always in style and is a constantly revolving trend, with leopard print popularity dating back to the 60s when fashion became more liberated for women .
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Images Courtesy of LFW Street Style at Motilo.com www.motilo.com
In this collarless vintage coat, Monica lets the leopard print stand out against the black beneath. A black jacket from The Kooples, black turtleneck sweater and cropped black pants, both from Zara, and black stilettos from Topshop - all combine to create a 50s/60s inspired look reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn’s black top and legging style. A terracotta APC shopping bag from their 2012 spring collection , vintage style Frances Klein shades and flowing caramel locks complete the retro look.
AUTUMN 2012
FLORAL / BOHO Fashion blogger Soraya Bakhtiar has this modern bohemian style down pat, and proves that you don’t have to bury your coloured garments in the wardrobe this autumn! In this 70s inspired outfit she wears a pastel green jumper from Acne which creates the perfect canvas for her brightly coloured jacket and coat: her floral Zara jacket, reminiscent of the Erdem Spring/Summer 2011 collection of beautiful, floral feminine prints, and a knitted aqua Topshop coat. Contrasting these popping colours are her dark Maje jeans and black Topshop boots, and topping off the look is a maroon wide-brimmed fedora, also from Topshop.
Images Courtesy of LFW Street Style at Motilo.com www.motilo.com
Inspired by the hippie movement of the 1960s/1970s, and popular on the streets of Europe and runways of A/W 2011, fedoras remain a must-have accessory for autumn. A hot pink neon Celine bag, popular on the S/S 2011 runways, with bright bags and accessories from Jimmy Choo and Celine dominating, adds another splash of colour to her bright trans-seasonal outfit.
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EMERGING MELBOURNE
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AUTUMN 2012
EMERGING MELBOURNE Written By: Ben Anderson Melbourne is home to great coffee, café culture, music, art and much more, but we are predominately renowned for our fashion sense and the ability to dress for the unpredictable Melbourne weather. We simply refer to it as layering but in order to achieve this layered effect means choosing the right clothing. Something Melbourne also does extremely well. Melbourne fashion is fresh, young and vibrant and the best from around the country. This years National Graduate show for LMFF 2012 showcased seven Victorian designers. The question then becomes where do you find these young up and comers to sample their bevy of creative fashion delights. The answer is simply EMERGING MELBOURNE. Emerging MELBOURNE is the place to find the best emerging designers from Melbourne and around Australia. It is Melbourne’s premiere market place for the young up and coming Australia fashion designers. Keeping it fresh all the time, Emerging MELBOURNE rotates its designers every three months bringing you the best and latest in fashion and are currently featuring the work of:
LISA TARANTO
ANGI MAC
Hailing from Melbourne’s southern Mornington Peninsula and meeting by chance through a local artist, LISA TARANTO designers, Lisa and Lea shared a vision for ethical, innovative and intelligent design, which results in their inspired collections for LISA TARANTO.
ANGI MAC is the unique style of Melbourne born sisters, Angela & Sarah McFarland. Their jewellery is bold and fun, a collection of eclectic pieces inspired by the modern Australian woman.
COELHO
ANGIE L DESIGNS
Melbourne based and produced label Coelho occupies a much sought after point in the market that separates chic work wear from after-dark allure. The label presents a cohesive mix of slinky separates utilising razor sharp tailoring and luxurious fabrics to produce the kind of casual glamour that effortlessly transitions from day to night.
Beauty and inspiration is everywhere, you just have to open your eyes a little sometimes to see it. No matter where her passion for accessories and all things beautiful began, it has grown and led her down a path where she loves nothing more than creating and sharing her love and ideas with others.
JAM JEANS
SIRIUS GRAFIK
Ripe and ready to pick! It’s not just the wash, the amazing cut, or the label on the back, but the colour of our stitching, unique pocket detailing and interesting embroideries, that gives Jam Jeans its signature style. Using premium denim with just the perfect amount of stretch, a cut that stylishly flatters every body shape.
With unique and interesting designs Sirius Grafik effortlessly design and manufacture hand-made screen-prints. Wanting to take their passion for graphics and design to others, they have brought the label to life continuously igniting the imagination of the wearer.
MINA & KATUSHA
All in all Emerging Melbourne is a new and exciting curated marketplace showcasing some of the very best young and upcoming designers and artists. The space also features as workshop and art exhibition. Seek and you will find!
A product of creative inspiration of award winning designer Sarina Zammit, alumni of the prestigious Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) and fashion entrepreneur Katya Baxter.
Photography Jamie Li
EMERGING MELBOURNE Level 1 Lonsdale Bridge, Melbourne Central | 300 La Trobe Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 www.emergingmelbourne.com | emergingmelbourne@fjordemagazine.com
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&
gusto élan
Gusto - [gu noun - a ke zest, spirit
Élan [ey-lah noun – com elegance an
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uhs-toh] een appreciation, individual taste,
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isit the Gusto & Élan boutique and mention Fjorde Magazine to receive a free gift!
FJ O R D E
PENTHOUSE MOUSE
PH
M12 By Alex Cybulska
Going to a warehouse party in Fitzroy is standard fare on a Friday night. But not when you’re going to the Penthouse Mouse Midmouse Runway show. Melbourne’s best bloggers, writers, stylists, representatives and designers converged in the one space to see the latest offerings from Leonard Street, Autonomy, The Social Studio, Kings of Carnaby, Bento, Upper Left Arm, Alistair Trung, Di$count, Trimapee, Where Lovers Lie, Raggatt, Neo Dia and above. FJORDE was reminded that away from the glitz and the glam of LMFF’s celebrity and fame, it’s the sideshows deliver the culture and aesthetics of what Melbourne is really about. Completely unrestricted by what they could do, Penthouse Mouse put on an impressive runway. Guests admired the designs over 2 shows, one at 7.30pm, and the other at 9.30pm allowing for a quick Nando’s run between. The Sopporo beer flowed freely and so did conversations. As expected, Kings of Carnaby and Alistair Trung didn’t disappoint while crowd favourite Di$count offered the most unconventional pieces. Neo Dia, long time friends of FJORDE, offered a collection that continued with their theme of manipulating paper, while Where Lovers Lie showed us a very feminine AW. In all, the Midmouse Runway show is one to put in your calendars each year and one to prioritize during LMFF. The designers are fresh, raw and are completely in tune with what you, as the consumer will wear in the coming seasons. If nothing else, support the independent designers and take part what makes Melbourne so very uniquely Melbourne.
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AUTUMN 2012
Photography Megan Harding for StyleZilla
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FJ O R D E
K A R TO N G R O U P
KARTON GROUP By Sonia Khan When it comes to furniture, Ralph Wollner and Joshua Klein haven’t been thinking outside the box. Instead they think about the box. Wollner, a former textiles designer was looking for cardboard coat hangers on the internet when he chanced upon something even more innovative: cardboard furniture.
The range is designed in Germany under Stange Design; the brainchild of industrial designer Hans-Peter Stange, after an internship at a cardboard factory. For those of you unaware, ‘karton’ is German for ‘cardboard’, and the cardboard itself is state-of-the-art. The core is made of recycled paper while the exterior layer is stronger and dense. The finished product is as strong as thicker boards Rare on the global market, cardboard furniture on the market whilst being lighter and thinner. is only made by a handful of designers across Europe. Wollner was intrigued by the Each piece is designed in true Germanic utilitarian nature of the product; arguably fashion, with aesthetic, functionality, ease more functional than current offerings on the of construction and space economy in mind. Australian market, whilst still being unique, Products are also fastidiously tested for affordable and importantly, recyclable. This strength and durability. was the birth of Karton. Surprisingly the Stange Design range has When you walk into the Chapel St pop-up been available in Germany for over a decade, store you first notice de rigeur magazine however Wollner’s business partner Joshua racks and storage boxes. It is only when my Klein, comes from a marketing background eyes fall on the cardboard queen size bed and sees great potential for cardboard furniture and a table and stool set that I realise that in the present Australian Market. this is literally furniture made of cardboard, Klein reasons that everyone needs furniture, and not much else. I take a seat on the stool which is incredibly sturdy and not to mention however prices these days are sky high and comfortable. Joshua Klein and I sit down and most people are on a budget. This is where Karton fits in. Described by Klein as, “in talk details about Karton’s story. the seriously affordable category” all of the products selected from Germany must be inexpensive, making nearly everything in the range retail under $AUD200.
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AUTUMN 2012
Images Courtesy of KARTON GROUP
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FJ O R D E
K A R TO N G R O U P
The ‘Paperpedic Bed’ is the best-seller and within 5 minutes in the shop, a uni student comes in to purchase one. Not surprising considering it can easily morph from a single to a king size, costs $188, has the load capacity of ten men and the flat pack is around the size of two pairs of skis. Needless to say, I was impressed. At this point Klein relays an anecdote of a German customer who had bought one from Stange 12 years ago and brought it to Australia with it still intact today. Now it’s easy to say, I am astounded. The main eco-friendly aspect of Karton is that the furniture is recyclable however the ecological impact of the collection spans further than this. Light, space-saving flat packs minimise freight emissions and material waste, while the product is partially made from recycled goods. Karton designs also minimise waste on the consumer end; individual parts can easily be replaced (eg: drawers) instead of salvaging the whole piece, they are easy to move house with and recycling can be done by anyone with a green bin. For those seeking innovative and conceptual furniture, Karton is an ideal blend of both while still being a down-to-earth brand. We can only imagine how far and wide it’s following is yet to spread as more fans “join the fold” as Karton like to say. For more information on products, popup shops and online store visit www. kartongroup.com.au
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AUTUMN 2012
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archie
archie DESIGNED IN MELBOURNE www.archieonline.com.au
FJ O R D E
N AT A MIE O?N? A ? ?L G R A D U AT E S H O W C A S E
NATIONAL GRADU SHOWCASE PHOTOGRAPHER MARK PETERSON FJORDE sits down with this years National Showcase FJORDE with thisfashion means to them. Graduatessits to down find out what years National Showcase Graduates to find out what fashion means to them.
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AUTUMN 2012
UATE
ANISHA BH
OYRO
F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? My name is Anisha Bhoyro, My collection is called Precious Threads. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? I feel so honoured to have been chosen as one of the top 12 fashion graduates in Australia and I am very grateful for the support and generosity of Sportsgirl for providing this opportunity. F: Tell me something about your collection. My collection explores new ways of making garments. I aim to utilize the entire piece of cloth and shape the garments by manipulating the threads within it and molding it to parts of the body. My work holds close attention to
detail, artisanal craftsmanship and a no waste F: What do you have planned for the approach to the design process. I aim to create future? clothing that will be valued as precious to the There is so much that I want to learn about the wearer. fashion industry that I do not plan to start my F: What’s one fashion staple you can’t live own label too soon. I plan to travel overseas and keep my mind open to new experiences without? and ideas. Classic Chanel black ballet flats. F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. I aspire to dress any one who has appreciation for the craft and values behind my work. I think that my collection appeals to a person who is interested in more than the image that fashion portrays, they are intrigued by innovative design ideas, care about the origins of what they wear and buy clothes with longevity in mind.
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FJ O R D E
N AT A MIE O?N? A ? ?L G R A D U AT E S H O W C A S E
F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection?
design with Australian kitsch and imagery. It embraces kitsch and cliché, it’s a lot of fun. F: Name 3 people who inspire you?
F: What do you have planned for the future?
In the near future, after LMFF, I’m racing straight back to Sydney for the Graduate Of Designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des the Year Award presentation night. Then I’m Garçons, novelist Gabriel García Márquez and installing my designs in a fashion exhibition musician Noah Lennox. F: How do you feel about being a part of in Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum, which will the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? run until August. I will continue to collaborate F: Which celebrity do you want wearing with the various photographers and stylists your designs and why? It has been so much fun and such an exciting who have asked to use my work, both here and ride so far, meeting all kinds of interesting overseas, and plan to have some fun along the I’d love to dress Cate Blanchett. I have people, and new invitations and opportunities way. Designing is something I will always be always admired her for her talent, elegance popping up every day! And we haven’t even doing, and I am planning to branch out into and individuality. She thinks for herself and had the parade yet! various kinds of artistic ventures this year, so my designs are for stylishly independent keep your eyes peeled. F: Tell me something about your collection? people with a love for creativity. My name is Anna Langdon. The first collection from the Anna Langdon label is entitled ‘Kitschfolk und Kindheit’.
My goal with ‘Kitschfolk und Kindheit’ was to create a beautiful, wearable collection to capture the imagination and communicate a story. It’s essentially combining German folk
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? Name: Amelia Agosta, Label: Amelia Agosta. Collection: Engineered Distortion F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? Being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show is definitely an amazing opportunity to showcase to the industry, pubic and friends my final year collection and what my design philosophy revolves around. I see the LMFF Graduate Designer Show as a great stepping-stone to peruse an internship or future job. Although on the night of the show the nerves will appear I am very excited. LMFF definitely is a great opportunity to be launched into the industry and start with what I hope will be a long and successful career, and the next phase of learning that will come with it. F: Why did you get into fashion? My grandma had an influence on me from a young age, she taught me how to knit and sew. I began making clothes for my Barbie’s and dolls and enjoyed making things for friends and myself. The most rewarding thing making garments for myself was that I could achieve the perfect fit, colour and fabric I wanted. I continued this interest in fashion throughout high school, however it wasn’t until I started studying the course (RMIT Bachelor of fashion and design) in 2008 straight after finishing year 12 that I became heavily involved. F: Name 3 people who inspire you. Sandra Backland, Iris van Herpen & Mary Katrantzou F: What’s one fashion staple you can’t live without? Well at the moment it is my Melissa sandals, you never know what the weather will be in Melbourne, hot one minute and raining the next. The strap up summery plastic sandals are surprisingly comfortable, excellent for looking a little bit more sophisticated (compared to sandals or thongs) and if it rains it doesn’t matter! F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. Someone stunning and beautiful, not only in looks but personality. Someone who would appreciate the design and time of producing my garments.
AMELIA AGOSTA
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? My name is Courtney White. For my womens-wear designs, I like to work under the label of Courtney Laura. When I produce menswear designs, I work under my menswear label Mont & Merc. F: Why did you get into fashion? I find that a garment has the uncanny ability to completely change the mood and confidence of a person. When someone feels fabulous, they radiate that feeling to others around them. I have never experienced a more gratifying feeling than seeing when one of my own designs makes someone feel amazing. It’s such a rewarding feeling and is something I aspire to each time I begin the design process. I got into fashion because I see it as a way to creatively impart happiness into the life of a person, while expressing myself creatively. F: Name 3 people who inspire you. Val Horridge- a celebrated academic of UTS and person of extensive knowledge and experience in the international fashion industry; Christopher Bailey - Designer of Burberry; and Alastair Carr - Designer for Pringle of Scotland who has an amazing eye and knowledge of knitwear design. F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. In the Australian fashion arena, I would be flattered to see my menswear designs worn by Josh Flinn. I admire his eye for styling and feel that he encapsulates the energy and personality of my graduate collection designs. In terms of womens-wear, Blake Lively and Rosie Huntington-whiteley are my muses. They embody the fresh faced, natural beauty of my label Courtney Laura, and promote a healthy body image for young girls F: What do you have planned for the future? I plan to pursue an extensive knowledge in refined knitwear and leather design, to hopefully achieve my aspirations of one day owning my own national labels.
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? Name: Juyoung, Seo. Name of collection: Blossoming F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? I’m proud of being a part of the LMFF show and really excited to have fashion show with other talented designers. Most of all, I really want to thank to my parents for supporting and trusting me. F: Tell me something about your collection. The beauty of a blossoming flower becomes the narrative in the crafting process for this project. Focusing on an exploration of a new technique in textile manipulation, these garments are intended to imitate the embedded veins within. The outcomes document the journey from the birth of a flower to the point where it collapsed, obstructing the position of each petal to achieve organic silhouettes. F: Why did you get into fashion? There’s no particular reason why I got into fashion because I was always only interested in fashion, ever since I was very young. F: Name 3 people who inspire you. Alexander McQueen, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent. F: What’s one fashion staple you can’t live without? High-heels shoes. F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. Miranda Kerr. I always imagined Miranda Kerr wearing my collection because she is one of the top models who makes clothes look really nice and beautiful when she wears it. F: What do you have planned for the future? Open my own designer label.
JUYOUNG SEO
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? My name is Laura HuiShan Li. Collection titled Wind Blown. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? Being a part of LMFF is a great honour. I am extremely excited but at the same time nervous. Presenting my work through the runway is a dream. It is a great opportunity to present my designs to the public. F: Tell me something about your collection. Wind Blown the collection was born with the concept of capturing the movement of contact between the rushing winds with the implicated
force upon the skin. The aim of the collection is looking at ways wind effect to different textiles. In an attempt to record the impact of wind on a person’s skin, a piece of leather is molded onto a plastic mannequin and shaped to give the intended outcome. It leads to an exaggerated silhouette that appears naturally blown onto a person’s body, highlighting the hidden form underneath the material. F: Why did you get into fashion? Since I was a little girl, I’ve always been a creative person. With my passion for drawing and reading manga, I realized it was not so much the characters I am fond of but more so their attire. Then I decided to pursue
my passion and enrolled in RMIT fashion program, which was a perfect decision because RMIT is one of the best universities in the field and the campus has such wonderful environment where it allows the students to really be creative. F: What do you have planned for the future? I can see myself working in the fashion industry for few years and then I will definitely build up my own fashion label and open up a business. This is always my dream.
LAUR
A HU
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NATALIA GRZ
YBOWSKI
F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection?
F: What’s one fashion staple you can’t live without?
Natalia Grzybowski, and the name of my label is Natalia Grzybowski. My collection is named Hybrid.
A perfect fitting slim trouser.
F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? Over the moon! F: Why did you get into fashion? I can’t see myself doing anything else with such passion as when I design. It’s an indescribable feeling, when I create something that transforms the person when they put it on. It’s the biggest compliment when someone wants one of your pieces and feels amazing wearing it. F: Name 3 people who inspire you.
F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. There are many celebrities with amazing careers and a fantastic sense of style however I don’t have an affinity towards any celebrity in particular. It would be a huge honor to see a celebrity take my designs and wear it in a way that compliments their signature style. F: What do you have planned for the future? In April I am heading off to New York on a scholarship I won, thanks to the Australians in New York Fashion Foundation. I try not to plan too far ahead – life tends to go by unexpected pathways anyway.
No one specific comes to mind. People who are passionate, open-minded, and able to create happiness for themselves and those around them at no one’s cost inspire me. I find inspiration in the small things that go unnoticed on a daily basis – they can be the foundation of a beautiful idea.
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? I’m Rica Hardian and my collection titled Geogami. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? Feels like a dream comes true being a part of big event like LMFF Graduate Show, and I believe this will open more opportunity to my future career. F: Tell me something about your collection. Geogami is an origami inspired collection consisting a folding mechanism that combines the Japanese art of origami and digital printing. Each garment is derived from a two-dimensional structure that is segmented and folded to create a silhouette. The aim of this work was to investigate the intersection between fashion and folding technique and the medium itself. F: Why did you get into fashion? I was always looking for ways to express my creativity, so I ended up chosing fashion to express my imagination through the body. F: Name 3 people who inspire you. Madeleine Vionnet , Issey Miyake, Balenciaga F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. Beyonce, for sure. She is as a diva, great singer and as a humble person and it’s my dream to create a collection for her to wear during her concert. F: What do you have planned for the future? For the next few years I will gain a lot of experience in fashion industry through working and internships but my dream for the future is to create my own label and be part of the fashion industry world.
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RICA HARD
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F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? Sally Edwards, my label is called EDWARDS and the name of the collection is BOYS & GIRLS ARE CHOICE. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? I think I may have actually screamed a little when they called to tell me. Actually. It’s such an excellent opportunity, which I am absolutely thrilled to have been chosen for. F: Tell me something about your collection. My graduate collection ‘Boys And Girls Are Choice’ is aimed at creating a new punk, with a focus on traditional suiting, paying special attention to the nuances of menswear that are so important in the sartorial elegance of a well made suit. The intention was to create a new spin on the saturated punk aesthetic of the 70’s, working with ‘punk staples’ such as tartan, which was banned in England for it’s anarchic connections in the 1700’s. F: Why did you get into fashion? Because I couldn’t see myself doing anything else. F: What’s one fashion staple you can’t live without?
DS SALLY EDWAR
Clothes! F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why. Tilda Swinton. She is such an amazing actress and such an excellent dresser. She somehow looks masculine and feminine at the same time, which is the kind of androgyny that I imagined to go along perfectly with the suit. She may be the coolest woman alive.
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CHRIS RAN LIN
F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? My name is Chris Ran Lin, name of my collection is “Conflict and Fusion�. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? F: I have to say I am very excited to being a part of LMFF Graduate show. This is a great opportunity for me to present my work to a larger audience. F: Why did you get into fashion? I think the very big part influence my family. My mum was a dressmaker and she owns a fabric store when we lived in China and I helped her in the business. Also I like to play with fabric. Another part of designing I enjoy is creating new things and the processes of designing.
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F: Name 3 people who inspire you? First one I would be my mum. The designers that inspire me would be Alexander McQueen and Viktor & Rolf. Also, I think the wearer. My design is for people who like to try new thing, without them, fashion has no meaning. F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why? Although I am doing menswear right now, if Audrey Hepburn was still alive, I would like to dress her. She was so amazing and had a very strong personality. F: What do you have planned for the future? Maybe try to have more experience from the industry and get my own label started.
AUTUMN 2012
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AIN TAYLER
F: What is your name, the name of your label and the name of this collection? I’m Tayler Ainley, the designer behind ‘Trainley’. My graduate menswear collection is titled ‘Alpha / Bravo’. F: How do you feel about being a part of the LMFF Graduate Designer Show? To be honest, I’m so proud of myself for getting this far. As the saying goes, there has been a lot of ‘blood, sweat, and tears’ shed in the process of creating and finalising our first collections. LMFF is one hell of a joyride and it’s been an honor to be involved in an event of such prestige. All the hard work has paid off!
and from work, challenging myself each day to come up with a new corrugated vehicle. It encouraged me to look further into model aeroplane plans, especially the F-117 Nighthawks, and set parameters. All of my pattern pieces in one way or another are taken from this and other 2D aeroplane plans then are reworked to form 3 dimensional mechanical and unconventional silhouettes.
gadgets to push the final show into a more conceptual realm.
F: Why did you get into fashion?
F: Which celebrity do you want wearing your designs and why?
F: Name 3 people who inspire you? Sufjan Stevens. Basquiat. Stephen Fry.
I don’t think I got into ‘fashion’ as such, but Stephen Fry, because it would be utterly more into wearable art. I’ve always been ridiculous. I don’t take myself too seriously if creatively inclined and studying a fashion course gave me an avenue to create outcomes you haven’t already noticed. that were exciting not only to myself, but also to the people looking at and wearing them. An ongoing curiosity with where the future F: Tell me something about your collection? is taking us led me to collaborate with Alex Tennant, a Curtin University Engineering Alpha / Bravo began from folding miniature student, to incorporate electronically contrived paper aeroplanes with my train tickets to
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T H E ( N E A R LY ) N A K E D T R U T H
THE (NEARLY) NAKED W H AT YO U R B R A A N D U N D E R W E A R C H O I C E S S AY A B O U T YO U ! BY NADIA DRAGA
Brace yourself for a little too much information, I ALWAYS wear Bonds undies! Think that was awkward? Well, I recently discussed this topic at lengths with ten strangers during a market research group seminar (…the things we do for cold hard cash). I guess I was under the impression everyone was on the basic cotton Bonds bandwagon, but the variety of responses from the other ladies made me question what my choice of lingerie says about me. BOYLEG/BOYSHORTS
G-STING
These undies look great on girls who’ve been doing their squats and have a lean, fit figure. For that reason, they’re a popular choice with sporty girls.
The woman who regularly wears a g-string is either incredibly paranoid about VPL or very confident about her body and sexuality. If selected on a windy day in a flowy skirt, you’d have to assume our g-string wearer is pleased with her derriere and isn’t afraid to show it off. She’s definitely got a cheeky side!
GRANNY PANTIES Don’t take Bridget Jones as gospel – wearing granny panties will NOT result in a love connection between yourself, Hugh Grant and Collin Firth. These knickers can be labeled a last resort on laundry day, but the bigger question is why a pair of underwear made from enough material to conceal an adult diaper was purchased in the first place. LACY UNDERWEAR AND BRA SET A romantic at heart, the lacy lady loves all things feminine. She’s got an eye for detail, loves receiving flowers for no reason and would likely list Paris as her all time dream destination. ‘Classic’ is the word to keep in mind here – more your Jackie O than your Marilyn.
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SEAMLESS UNDERWEAR Conservative and practical, the woman who chooses seamless underwear is a sophisticated professional. While her bra and panties might not have the wow factor on their own, she’ll always blow you away when she’s dressed head to toe. PUSH UP BRA This marvelous invention can be a girl’s best friend and can speak volumes about the woman who selected it. The obvious statement a push up bra makes to the world is ‘look at my fabulous cleavage!’ This is a sensual, retro-minded woman who gives a nod to the 1950s by embracing her curves – and where she lacks curves, investing in the right tools to enhance them!
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TRUTH:
AHH BRA For the woman who can’t tell the difference between good marketing spin and a sports bra. CHICKEN FILLET The evolution of the small-busted girl who stuffs her bra, the chicken fillet wearer may have good intentions but is asking for disaster. If you do decide to go the route of the fillet before a big night on the town, prepare to be the center of some such horror story along the lines of, ‘then LMFAO came on and I started shuffling, when all of a sudden it just POPPED out…’ BUSTIER/CORSET For the limited women who can truthfully claim to wear a classic bustier daily, I tilt my metaphorical hat to you! This is a garment for the woman who values beauty above all else (including breathing, circulation, etc.) The likely statement a bustier communicates to the world is, ‘I’m getting married today!’ because there are few other occasions modern women subject themselves to such discomfort.
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REINVENTING THE FASHION WH Time and Time Again By Rachel Farah
50s While sorting through racks and racks of clothing at an op-shop, I couldn’t believe what I found. Good quality second-hand pieces from the past 10 to forty years that looked too similar to what was currently hanging in a Sportsgirl store. And a fraction of the price, at that. Further thought recognizes that the beauty of fashion is its lack of longevity; it allows designers to recreate an idea, and mold it to the modern individual. Or, as Coco Chanel stated, ‘fashion fades, only style remains the same.’
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The 50s can be summed up quite elegantly in one person, Audrey Hepburn. Her classic cinched in waist look, a Christian Dior’s signature, is still worn and craved by women worldwide today. Besides, what woman doesn’t like to take advantage of an outfit that accentuates her bust and waist? There are other looks from the 50s that have been modernized and are still relevant today. Like the soft, feminine and romantic look, or the post WW2 independent and powerful look.
60s The 60s. Really, enough said. There are few people who don’t wish they didn’t get to experience the 60s, with the introduction of mini-skirts and go-go boots made famous by Twiggy. Psychedelic prints, highlighter colours and mismatched patterns, bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye and paisley prints were also a big hit. Designers that still reign today from this era include Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Yves Saint-Laurent.
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HEEL
70s Two themes were predominant during the 70s; one was the hippie phase from the 60s that still held strong and the other was disco fever! The peasant look, embroidery, maxi skirts and floral-patterned prints dominated the early 70s and have re-entered the fashion scene just recently. From the other end of the spectrum, who could look past the Charlie’s Angels diva Farrah Fawcett in her bright halter-top and high-waisted bellbottom jeans? Or John Travolta rocking out his three-piece white suit in Saturday Night Fever?
80s So this was the ‘cool’ decade, where everyone wore oversized neon-coloured jumpers with leg warmers and Keds. And don’t forget to add bright pink lipstick with bright blue eye shadow and an excess of bangles on the wrists...ohmigosh hot! Slight exaggeration? Not at all! Welcome to the 80s! With style icons such as Madonna and Cyndi Lauper splashing out in every bright colour available, it’d be hard to forget this decade. However the MTV revolution also took place i.e. freedom of expression, and a grungier punk look emerged. The styles that have remained include acid washed jeans, Ray Bans and Converse high-tops.
90s The decade we were told to reunite and spice up our lives! While having ‘the Rachel’ haircut, keeping it real with the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air and maintaining our fruity lips with Lip Smackers! It may be too early for us to loop back to 90s fashion, especially considering the best part about it was the pop culture and music. But while overalls and neon parachute jackets may not have made a comeback yet, striped jumpers and Doc Martens are items that will hopefully never fade!
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L M F F 2 0 1 2 I N D E P E N D E N T R U N WAY
PHOTOGRAPHER MARK PETERSON
EXTINCT
LMFF 2012
I N D E P E N D E N T R U N W AY
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FRANIS LEON
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GARTHCOOK
JOLET
KSUBI
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LIVIA ARENA
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LUI HON
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ONE FELL SWOOP
SOMETHING ELSE
SONG FOR THE MUTE
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EASTER WON PHOTOGRAPHY FILIP KONIKOWSKI STYLISING MAURIZIO LAINO
DERLAND
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EASTER WONDERLAND
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|| Kathryn Beker Dress, avaliable from Gusto & Elan', Harry Wragg gloves, Novo Shoes, Jewellery from Lady Moor's Lover || Easter Egg available from Hamperworld || Kathryn Beker Dress, avaliable from Gusto & Elan', Harry Wragg Fur and Cuff, Earrings from Lady Moor's Lover, Novo Shoes || Kathryn Beker Dress, avaliable from Gusto & Elan', Harry Wragg Gloves, Jewellery from Lady Moor's Lover || Kathryn Beker Dress, available from Gusto & Elan', Earrings from Lady Moor's Lover, Novo Shoes, Picnic basket available from Hamperworld || Kathryn Beker Dress, avaliable from Gusto & Elan', Harry Wragg Gloves, Earrings from Lady Moor's Lover, Novo Shoes, Easter Egg from Hamperworld || W W W. FJ O R D E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
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Photographer Filip Konikowski / Stylist Maurizio Laino / Hairstylist Parissa Andreou / Makeup Artist Katie Di Mascio / Model Ruby MacKinnon Images [Londoncourtesy MGT] /ofBunny Art Series Sam Hotel Luele
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SPIRITUALIS GALAXIA PHOTOGRAPHY JON LEE STYLISING VLADIMIR S. BARSKI
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SPIRITUALIS GALAXIA
ULTMATE JACKET - MINA & KATUSHA @ $142.50, CHANTILLY DRESS - ANGE LANG @ $456
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PANTALOONS - MINA & KATUSHA @ $175, RENAISSANCE SHIRT MINA & KATUSHA @ $179.90
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RENAISSANCE SHIRT - MINA & KATUSHA @ $179.90
Photographer Jon Lee / Stylist Vladimir S. Barski / Makeup Artist Justine Bruer / Model Ana Kingsley [Mark Fitzgerald Management]
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KATYA TUNIC - MINA & KATUSHA @ 176.30
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SHEER FORCE TOP - ZHI VAGO @ $199, MAXI SKIRT - KATHRYN BEKER @ $285
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W H AT ’ S N E W I N M E L B O U R N E
W H AT ’ S N E W EMBIGGEN BOOKS 197-203 LT LONSDALE ST, MELBOURNE Embiggen Books opened in August last year across from The Wheeler Centre on Little Lonsdale Street. Their name is borrowed from the Jonathan Swift novel Gulliver’s Travels and this bookstore proves bookselling is far from washed up. Owners Warren and Kristie originally established the bookshop in Queensland where they accepted that selling knowledge involved moral responsibility. After moving the store from Queensland to Melbourne, that philosophy continues to shape their selection. The chosen authors are those who base their views off evidence and inspire critical thinking. Make sure to catch Nobel Prize winner Peter Doherty speaking at the shop in April.
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M.E & CO. FITTERS 57 SMITH ST, MELBOURNE Both from retail backgrounds looking to establish a shop of their own, Emily and Mark opened M.E & Co. last November. Taking inspiration from gallery spaces, the clothing shop is white and minimal with the intention of the clothes being the focus of the space. They stock brands from all varieties including emerging, established and international designers. Style wise, M.E & Co. feels distinctly Scandinavian with simple, stylish cuts and silky fabrics. As an added bonus, you won’t find anything in the shop over $200.
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CHAPTER HOUSE LANE ENTRY VIA FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
TACO TRUCK MELBOURNE, ON THE MOVE IN SUBURBS FAR AND WIDE
Walk down Flinders Lane towards Swanston Street and you will come across one of the newest galleries in Melbourne. Chapter House Lane is named for the laneway it occupies. Unlike other city spaces, this gallery has no interior and instead exhibits its work on sideby-side window displays. The exhibitions change every month with openings held on the first Thursday of month. Walk by day or night to check out the newest work from both established and emerging artists.
The concept of mobile food is not new, but the taco being associated with quality cuisine surely is. The Taco Truck had a bit of trouble getting off the ground as the City of Yarra forbade the use of mobile food vans on public property. Lucky for these mobile purveyors, that rule was amended on the 7th of February and as a result, mobile food vans can now operate as long as they are not near other takeaway establishments. This new form of ‘fastfood’ is taking off with their affordable prices and friendly staff. Check out their Facebook page for the most current location.
By Regan Brantley
JOSIE BONES 98 SMITH ST, COLLINGWOOD There is no doubt that restaurants are becoming more conscious of production methods and sustainability. Josie Bones puts a unique spin on the idea by embracing what they refer to as ‘nose-to-tail’ dining. On the menu you’ll find dishes like ox tongue and pigs head, which are presented elegantly and are packed with flavor. The idea, according to owner Chris, is cooking with a conscience, having enough respect for the animal to use secondary cuts that may be less fashionable, but are equally as tasty. The beer list is extensive and seasonal, showcasing over ten different styles of beer. Check their website for an upcoming multi-course degustation.
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Photographer Filip Konikowski / Hairstylist & Makeup Artist Kasia Stelmach / Stylist Kasia Stelmach / Model Stephanie Murphy
IN MELBOURNE
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SCULPTED
TOORAK VILLAGE SCULPTURE EXHIBITION BY SONIA KHAN
BACKGROUND: “Snail Play” by Martin Moore. L TO R: “Welcoming Shelter-a Childhood Memory” by Ernest Fries / “Trojan Hammer” by Robert Hague.
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Since 2002, the Toorak Village Traders Association has been the proud organisers of the Toorak Village Sculpture Exhibition. The idea was conceived by Traders Association co-ordinator Xena Holt and renowned sculpture curator Ken Scarlett. Unique in Melbourne, the exhibition takes place annually along the Toorak Village shopping strip in proprietor windows and more recently art works have been bolted along the street. This is one of the best aspects of the exhibition; most businesses featuring indoor works leave lights on for passersby, making the exhibition 24 hour. Home to 99 works this year, the Toorak Village Sculpture Exhibition has been a fantastic platform for artists around the country. Pieces are judged each year by notable art consultants, critics and academics, with some pieces being bought by the traders association for permanent display. All works featured are available for purchase with many being under $500. Being both indoor and outdoor, the sculptures vary greatly. Styles include: minimalist designs, surrealist pieces, avant garde and quirky conceptual works. Prominent artists in past years include Dean Putting, Charles Aquilina and Julia Anderson. For any art lover or sculpture enthusiast, the Toorak Village Sculpture Exhibition is an incredible way to see a vast collection of 3D works after coffee with friends or dinner in South Yarra. The space gives greater opportunities than the average gallery, not to mention the ease of access via public transport (#8 tram) and a short drive from Bridge Rd and Chapel St. The Toorak Sculpture Exhibition runs from 1st-31st May along Toorak Rd, Toorak Village. For more details on the exhibition, opening night and artists see www.tooraksculpture.com.au
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SHAUN KIRK
SINGING T H E B LU E S IT’S BEEN A BIG FEW YEARS FOR BLUES SINGER SHAUN KIRK. IF NOT FOR A SERIOUS SPORTS INJURY AND A RANDOM GIFT FROM HIS MOTHER, HE MAY HAVE NEVER REALISED HIS MUSICAL TALENTS. WITH A VOICE AS DEEP AND RAW AS BURNT CARAMEL, AND THE TALENT TO BE A BAND BY HIMSELF, IT’S NO WONDER SHAUN HAS HAD AN INCREDIBLE RECEPTION FROM THE NATION’S BLUES COMMUNITY. FJORDE WAS HAPPY TO SIT AND CHAT TO HIM ABOUT HIS LATEST ALBUM ‘THANK YOU FOR GIVING ME THE BLUES.’ BY SONIA KHAN
FJORDE: Well done on the release of your latest album ‘Thankyou for Giving Me the Blues.’ How long did the whole project take? Were all the songs new creations or were any years in the making? Shaun Kirk: We actually began the first recording back in April 2011. The majority of the recording was done during the month of August 2011 in a friends Brunswick bedroom! The album was mixed by Glenn Scott at Wick Studios in Brunswick and mastered by Dave Neil up at Modern Mastering in Brisbane throughout September and October [2011]. The album has been two years in the making and reflects my full time life on the road since the release of my debut album in 2010. In those ten years, I like to think I’ve learnt alot, seen alot and grown alot; not just as a person, but also as a musician so it’s exciting to have published that period of my life on a disc! F: Definitely! And what prompted you to release the second album? Was a there any big event or inspiration behind it, like the sports injury that re-ignited your passion for music? SK: It simply felt like the right time to release a new album. I had enough material written, and my live show had changed so much since my first release, so I wanted to capture that. F: How would you characterise your own development as an artist between “Cruisin’” and “Thank You For Giving Me The Blues”? SK: I had only really got into blues music about six months before I recorded “Cruisin’” so the genre was very new to me at the time and the sound we captured on that album is very raw. I have added a bunch of electric drum pedals to my feet in the two years leading up to “Thank You For Giving Me The Blues,” allowing me essentially to make as much noise as a band does so it’s a much bigger sound. I’ve also knuckled down on my song writing and think that there’s a fair bit more substance to my lyrics, especially now that I am more familiar with the genre.
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Photographer Woodrow Wilson
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F: You’ve had some great opportunities for performances over the past two years. Which has been your favourite show to date?
SK: The first instrument I picked up was an old bashed up nylon string guitar that my mother randomly placed on my bed one day. I was hanging out with the wrong crowd back then and the guitar set me in the right direction. It’s funny to look back and remember the time when I couldn’t even play guitar and sing at the same time without getting myself in a tangle.
SK: It’s impossible to name just one. Festivals are always fun! I have received quite a few encores and even some standing ovations of recent times which are always extremely overwhelming and special. At a recent gig I got to share the stage with some of my idols; Geoff Achison, Lloyd Spiegel and Jimi Hocking. That gig is one that will stay entrenched in my memory even when I develop dementia I’m sure!
F: What took you to the one-man-band idea? Surely it took you alot of practice to master?
F: Who would you name as your greatest musical influences past and present?
SK: The one-man-band approach was a vision that I began to build shortly after the release of “Cruisin’.” I decided to quit my part time job and hit the road as a full time musician. I wanted a groove behind my music so that people would boogie, but didn’t want to pay a drummer because of horror stories I’d head of touring bands struggling to get by financially. I knew that if I was to put a band together I would probably have to go back to working 9-5 part time, so I came up with a way to make all the sound by myself. Keeping all that in mind, I definitely would like to put a band together somewhere down the track!
SK: The first album I ever purchase was Silverchair’s “Freakshow” when I was about 8. I remember making my mum listen to it in the car during our family holidays whilst I would sit in the back singing. Can you imagine an 8 year old’s little high pitched voice singing Silverchair songs? My poor mother must have been tempted to run the car off the road. Ha! On a more serious note, Bob Dylan was the man who influenced my earliest songs and still does in many ways. But my strongest present influences would have to be Tony Joe White, Howlin’ Wolf and the Australian Blues Music scene!
F: In a world where the majority of music is now moving into digital format, a one-man-band has to be seen to be believed! How do you feel about today’s music industry? Where do you want to fit into things?
F: And finally, what do you think it is most important for your songs to do? What message do you want to impart on the listener?
SK: I hope my music can inspire others in any way shape or form. I am a strong believer in making the most of your time on this earth. Don’t EVER let anyone tell you that you can’t do something. If there SK: We are certainly in daunting times right now, but as a musician in the early stages of his career it probably doesn’t affect me as much. I feel is something you wish to do, go out and do it. And if at first you don’t for those who have been in the game for many years and have watched succeed, dust yourself of and try again. things slide downhill. But as with any industry, it’s going to go through More information can be found on Shaun Kirk’s music and touring tough times. The grass is always greener on the other side and I think dates on www.shaunkirk.com and the music industry will pull through and thrive once again later down facebook.com/shaunkirkofficialmusicpage the road. As for me, as long as I have places to play, money to pay my bills and my music connects with people in a positive way, I’m happy!
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Photographer Filip Konikowski / Hairstylist & Makeup Artist Megan Bond for Kevin Murphy / Model Paris Maggs
F: You have certainly become a master of many instruments... all at once! What was your first instrument you played?
FJ O R D E
COBY GRANT
CO BY GRANT By James Banhan Walking into a small studio in Melbourne’s northern suburb of Brunswick, I didn’t know what to expect. Meeting with Australian singer-songwriter Coby Grant, an acoustic pop starlet amongst the independent music artist scene was an exciting prospect and one that didn’t disappoint. I’d heard some of Coby’s work in the past and seen photos here and there, so I expected a pretty, blonde girl from Perth with a fire in her belly for recording music. And that was precisely what I got. She’d been recording vocal melodies with her sound engineer for her two latest songs, Without You and Unlove Song.
“The music industry in Germany is the third biggest in the world,” she said. “So even if I go over there and do reasonably well, it’s still a great deal better than if I stayed in Australia.” Coby will be launching her debut album in Germany in late August, which will feature songs from her EPs such as Charlie, her two current works in progress and many others. Coby’s quietly confident about her upcoming time in Germany. As she says, she now has “people” that are helping her out. It’s a far cry from her earlier gigging days, which involved her managing everything.
“It was heavy,” she said. What is great about Coby’s music is that “When I first moved to Melbourne, I sincerely if she doesn’t feel a song or lyrics, they believed I’d be snapped-up by a label in about don’t happen. She sings from empathy and two months and that would be that,” she said. experience, which is what brings so much soul “That so wasn’t the case and truth be known, and passion into what she does. you don’t even need a label to be successful these days, you just need the determination.” “Some pop singers come out with random lines and bizarre sentences that don’t make Coby is realistic and knows that making her sense, but I can’t do that. I prefer to sing based way will have its ups and downs. Having to on what I know and what I feel,” she said. move from her comfort zone to another city Needless to say, these two new pieces refer to then to another country has forced her to learn and adapt along the way. lovers past and loves lost and get right to the heart of the young artist. “I look at being an independent artist as a With her sights set on the international music small business, so as with any small business, industry and making it big in Germany, while you need to invest, spend time and not stop ‘til brushing-up on her lingo in the process, Coby you get to the end,” she said. is well on her way to achieving exactly that. For now, though, it’s a focus on music, Germany, gigs and doing what she does best In 2011 she performed over 200 shows all performing. over northern Europe from the mainstays in Germany, Sweden and Denmark to the notso-common Iceland and other Nordic nations. Coby learnt a lot and gained the inspiration and further determination to continue towards greatness.
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Image Courtesy of Coby Grant
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FJ O R D E
SOUL FOOD
SOUL FOOD BY ANITA CALAVETTA
It’s powerful enough to bring the most hardened dieter to his/her knees and the saliva glands of its most avid fans spring to attention at just its whisper. It’s an aphrodisiac, antidepressant and just plain delicious! We are talking about chocolate of course! And for chocolate lovers around Melbourne, the best way to learn more about that decadent treat is being in at the heart of it all – in a chocolatier’s kitchen!
Did you ever think you’d need a hair dryer in a chocolatier’s kitchen? Not only are hairdryers available to you after an Augustus Gloop episode, but they’re also used to temper chocolate. As the name suggests, temperature is important to maintain the consistency of the chocolate, and hairdryers are used to put heat back into the cocoa. Once this skill was understood, we took off making our own tray of chocolates from scratch. We’re even allowed a degree of artistic licensing with coloured chocolate dye, glitter dust and shapes available to create our own unique signature set of chocolates.
I had the sinful pleasure of participating in a chocolate making course at ‘Sissy’s Gourmet Delights’ in Brighton, where I learnt how to temper chocolate, make truffles and identify the different chocolates available, ensuring I’ll They looked fantastic when set, but I won’t be changing my surname to Lindt any time soon. know what to look out for when purchasing. Our class began with a detailed introduction into the largest chocolate productions areas around the world, giving us insight into the process of the cocoa bean and how it eventually becomes chocolate.
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For those wanting something new to try, a chocolate course is a great way for team building and learning a skill that will make you the family favourite.
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FOR THE CHOCOLATE LOVERS AROUND TOWN: CHECK OUT THESE GREAT COURSES GANACHE CHOCOLATE 250 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, VIC 3141
SAVOUR CHOCOLATE & PATISSERIE SCHOOL 22 Wilson Avenue, Brunswick, VIC, 3056
SISSY’S GOURMET DELIGHTS 31 Canterbury Road, Blackburn, VIC 3130
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FJ O R D E
THE LOCAL FISH WRAPPER
the local fish w
CHECK OUT THESE RECOMMENDATIONS Photographer Francesco Vicenzi
WESTGARTH FISH AND CHIPS
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wrapper By Ben Anderson For me, nothing says Aussie staple like the traditional fish and chips. For any occasion the local fish and chippery can always be a source fun and a satisfyingly tasty good time. There is no possible way to define the perfect fish and chips because everyone has their own opinion on how they like it. Fried or grilled, large or small servings, maybe throw in a couple of dimmies and a potato cake or two … or sometimes it’s as simple as the people behind the counter. If you ask around, nine out of ten people will say the best fish and chippery is the local down the road. And nine out of ten times it’s the best because they know your order and just how you like it. But what happens when you’re driving through town, your stomach gets that craving but you don’t know where to stop? This is where we come in. Thanks to FJORDE’s list of delicious fish and chipperies from all around Victoria, you’re never without deep fried and battered goodness again.
SEDDON FISH N CHIPS
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TELL US ABOUT YOUR FAVOURITE FISH AND CHIP SHOPW: FACEBOOK.COM/FJORDEMAG
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Photographer Jamie Li
LOUI’S SEAFOOD TAKE AWAY
FJ O R D E
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