Florence News & Events Winter Edition 2014 by FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

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Original Caravaggio Possibly Found

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Changing Cityscape LUCY DAVID Florence’s urban fabric is taking new form as pedestrianization plans for the Oltrarno district come into force and the city’s ancient heritage is unearthed with the opening of two archaeological sites. Mayor Dario Nardella recently announced a €5 million renovation plan for the Oltrarno, beginning with the pedestrianization of Piazza del

Carmine by January 12. The changes include new paving for the piazza, as well as in Via Romana, Via dei Serragli and Piazza del Nerli; the designation of certain streets for use by residents only; changes to bus routes 36 and 37; 200 new bicycle spots; and the pedestrianization of Piazzale Michelangelo by the end of 2015. “It’s a plan concerning the livability, mobility, culture, tourism, commerce, lighting, artisans, green spaces, and

PALAZZO STROZZI DISPLAYS PICASSO CONTINUED ON PAGE 2

our families and children, so that the Oltrarno is increasingly more livable and less polluted, and has the very real prospect of being the crown jewel of Florence and our historical center,” said Nardella. Car spaces currently occupying the two piazzas will be relocated to surrounding areas. The measures are forecast for completion by 2016. Meanwhile, the city’s topography yields new finds with the opening

of the Roman amphitheater under Palazzo Vecchio set to become a permanent feature in coming months. A relic of the Roman city of Florentia established in the first century AD, the theater was built to accommodate 5000 patrons and covered much of modern-day Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria. Santa Reparata puts Florence’s heritage on display, where a new exhibition tracing the history of Florence and the Duomo

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from the Roman era through to the Romanesque and medieval periods highlights strata of history already in situ with the addition of specialized lighting and multimedia information points in Italian and English, while archaeology meets technology at the Uffizi’s Gold Unveiled project, which uses a non-invasive process to illuminate vestiges of gold on ancient works of art, allowing patrons to visualize their original splendor.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

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The Fortunes of the Primitives

Palazzo Strozzi Displays Picasso

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Pablo Picasso’s life and work is celebrated at Palazzo Strozzi with an exhibit called Picasso and Spanish Modernity. Showcased are ninety works by Picasso and those twentieth-century Spanish artists over whom he had a profound influence, including Joan Miró, Salvador Dalí, Juan Gris, Maria Blanchard and Julio González. The exhibition is divided into nine sections spanning the period from 1910 through to 1963, and consists of paintings, drawings, sculptures, engravings, and a film by José Val del Omar. Drawn from Madrid’s Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, many of the works on display have never been shown outside of Picasso’s homeland. The exhibition features a variety of famous works including Picasso’s Woman’s Head (1910), Portrait of Dora Maar (1939) and The Painter and the Model (1963); Miró’s Siurana, the Path (1917) and Figure and Bird in the Night (1945); and Dalí’s Arlequin (1927). A highlight of the exhibition comprises a selection of preparatory drawings of the famous Guernica (1937). In

these sections, the visitor may extract a greater understanding of the symbolism behind Picasso’s work and reflect on the artistic journey that led him towards one of his most celebrated masterpieces. With his experimental style and innovative approach to art, Picasso produced a range of radical works, found in the Variations section. Another theme explored in the exhibition is that of surrealism, an artistic form to which Picasso and Dali made great contributions, as well as the relationship between nature and culture, which is displayed through the works of Alberto Sánchez, Óscar Domínguez, and Eduardo Chillida.

Picasso and Spanish Modernity Until Jan. 25, 2015 Palazzo Strozzi Open Daily : 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Thursday: 10 a.m.–11 p.m. Tickets €10; €8.50 reduced www.palazzostrozzi.org

Accademia celebrates eighteenth- and nineteenth-century art treasures The Fortunes of the Primitives at the Accademia Gallery analyzes the history of taste and collecting in Italy between the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries and the impact this has had on the formation of major public collections. Curated by Angelo Tartuferi and Gianluca Tormen, it examines personalities of those who collected works by the socalled “primitives,” from merchants to church officials, noblemen and scholars. Drawing on the knowledge of art historians, historians of collecting and art critics, the exhibit showcases paintings, sculptures, objects of sumptuary art and illuminated codices that were part of the collections of Francesco Raimondo Adami, Stefano Borgia, Angelo Maria Bandini, Alexis-François Artaud de Montor, Joseph Fesch, Teodoro Correr, Girolamo Ascanio Molin, Alfonso Tacoli Canacci, Sebastiano Zucchetti, Anton Frances-

co Gori, Agostino Mariotti and Matteo Luigi Canonici. As well as providing an animated dialogue to accompany visitors, The Fortune of the Primitives also offers a section focused on illuminations and sculpture, with artists on display including the Master of Magdalene, Arnolfo di Cambio, Bernardo Daddi, Taddeo Gaddi, Nardo di Cione, Lippo Memmi, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Pietro da Rimini, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Andrea Mantegna, Cosmè Tura, Piermatteo d’Amelia and Giovanni Bellini.

The Fortunes of the Primitives Until December 8 Accademia Gallery Tues – Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Tickets: €12.50; €6.25 reduced www.unannoadarte.it/primitivi.html

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

NEWS

City’s Ancient Sites Uncovered A new archaeological site revealing Florence’s ancient Roman and early Christian heritage together with the history of the Duomo has opened to the public. On display at Santa Reparata, the exhibition traces the city’s history from the Roman city of Florentia in the first century AD through to the fourteenth century, covering the Duomo’s origins in the early Christian period, and Florence’s Romanesque and medieval periods. A splendid mosaic floor created by North African workers in the early

Original Caravaggio Possibly Found

Christian period is one of the highlights of the layout, designed by ar- Art historian Mina Gregori claims to chitect Samuel Caciagli to render the have identified a hitherto unknown richly stratified site legible to visitors, painting in a private collection as Carwhich also features key lighting and avaggio’s original Mary Magdalene in multimedia information points in En- Ecstasy, which art historians believed until now to be in Rome. The 90-yearglish and Italian. The new exhibition is part of a series old president of the Roberto Longhi of measures put in place by the Opera Foundation in Florence and foremost di Santa Maria del Fiore to allow visi- authority on the subject was contacttors to enjoy the great wealth of mon- ed by the painting’s owners earlier uments held in the Great Duomo Mu- this year, and is convinced that it is seum, which is closed for renovations the 1606 original. “I have become a connoisseur and I until November 2015. know a Caravaggio when I see one,” she said. “The varying flesh tones of the body, the intensity of the face. The strong wrists and the blackened hands in wonderful variations of colour and light and with a shadow obscuring half her fingers are the most interesting and intense aspects of the painting. It is Caravaggio.” The presence of a handwritten note on the back of the painting referring to Caravaggio’s Mary Magdalene for “Cardinal [Scipione] Borghese of Rome” further strengthens Grego-

ri’s case, as the cardinal was both a patron of Caravaggio and a keen art collector. “This document definitively confirms the identification and attribution of the painting,” Gregori said. Members of the art world are more circumspect about the attribution. “There are many versions of a

presumed lost original of this subject by Caravaggio, none of which so far qualify as autograph,” said John Gash, a senior lecturer on art history at the University of Aberdeen and expert on Caravaggio. “This might be it, but without seeing the original painting, I would suggest extreme caution.”

Palazzo Pitti’s Gallery of Modern Palazzo Vecchio’s Amphitheater to Open Art Celebrates Centenary

The Roman amphitheater beneath Palazzo Vecchio will be permanently open to public view, following its public inauguration at the UNESCO World Forum on Culture and Cultural Industries held in Florence in October. “The project is of great historical significance because it is the only complex of ancient Roman ruins that can be visited in Florence,” said Florence’s mayor, Dario Nardella. Dating back to the Roman city of

Florentia in the first century AD, the 5000-seat amphitheater sprawled across modern-day Piazza della Signoria and the site of Palazzo Vecchio, and included a bathhouse and various services designed to accommodate theater-goers. After years of excavation under the Superintendence for Archaeological Heritage of Tuscany, the site will be open to Palazzo Vecchio visitors and feature a video projection illustrating its history.

Palazzo Pitti’s Gallery of Modern Art is devoting an exhibition to the twentieth-century collections belonging to the museum to celebrate its centenary, which have until now been relegated to the depositories. Spotlight on the Twentieth Century displays works collected by the museum during the twentieth century in the form of donations and acquisitions, including works acquired at the various editions of the Venice Biennale

between 1925 and 1945 and at the Quadriennale in Rome in 1935. Artists include the leading interpreters of Italian twentieth-century figurative culture, such asFelice Carena, Felice Casorati, Giorgio De Chirico, Filippo De Pisis, Gino Severini, Giuseppe Capogrossi, Guido Peyron and Ottone Rosai; as well as members of the socalled “Novecento toscano” group, including Baccio Maria Bacci, Giovanni Colacicchi and others, whose pres-

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ence at Florence’s Giubbe Rosse Café made the city a fertile meeting point for the cream of Italian artists and intellectuals in the 1920s.

Spotlight on the Twentieth Century Until March 8, 2015 Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo Pitti Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.polomuseale.firenze.it

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

NEWS

Masterpieces Meet in Prato

An exhibition of masterpieces by Tuscan and Venetian artists, many of which have never before been displayed to the public, is on show at the Palazzo Pretorio Museum in Prato until January 6. Meeting Masterpieces displays 86 works by artists including Caravaggio, Filippo Lippi, Bellini, Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Tintoretto and Jacopo Bassano, which have been drawn from the private collection of the Banca Popolare di Vicenza and range in scope from the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries. The exhibition is divided into four sections; the first, entitled Imago Magistra examines religious themes with such singular works as Caravaggio’s Coronation of Thorns, Giovanni Bellini’s Crucifixion, Jacopo Bassano’s Madonna and Child with St John the Baptist and Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child. The second section, The Ideal Image, explores humanity’s myths and beliefs with such works as Cesare Dandini’s Apollo and Gaspare Diziani’s The Entrance of Alexander the Great into Babylon, while The

Face of the Idea: The Portrait takes a broader approach to the genre of portraiture to analyse the ways in which sitters chose to be represented and how this communicates the psychological and social states of the era with such works as Portrait of Doge Nicolò da Ponte by Tintoretto and Portrait of Ferdinando de’ Medici by Santi di Tito. Finally, Beautiful Nature showcases a range of landscapes and still-life works by such artists as Zuccarelli, Zais, Chimenti and Scacciati that query the truth and falsity of representing nature through painting. The exhibition is organized by the Banca Popolare di Vicenza together with the Comune of Prato and curated by Fernando Rigon.

Meeting Masterpieces Until January 6, 2015 Palazzo Pretorio Museum, Prato Mon, Wed, Thurs & Fri: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat, Sun & holidays: 10 a.m.–8 p.m. (closed Tues) www.palazzopretorio.prato.it

A Spectrum of Paul Jenkins on Display This autumn, the Museo di Pittura Murale in San Domenico and Galleria Open Art in Prato showcase American artist Paul Jenkins’ life-long adoration of Italy with the exhibition The Spectrum of Light. Widely considered an influential figure in twentieth-century art, Jenkins sought expression through the merging and alignment of color. Two years after his death in 2012, Jenkins’ legacy is celebrated with 70 of his works on canvas and paper inspired by Pompeii, Goya, Vermeer, Bellini, Rembrandt, Velazquez, and studies by Moreau. The exhibition ties New York, France and Italy together through artworks rich in color and movement, revealing surprising facets of Jenkins’ early work and his relationships with Rothko, Pollock and Martha Jackson. The Spectrum of Light is held in Prato and runs until November 30.

The Spectrum of Light Until November 30 Museo di Pittura Murale, Piazza San Domenico Mon, Wed & Thurs: 1–8 p.m.; Fri, Sat & Sun: 2–9 p.m. www.diocesiprato.it

Alfredo Serri’s Intimate Universe Revealed The first exhibition dedicated to Alfre- 1949. Renowned for his masterful use do Serri, The Universe Composes Itself of illusory techniques, Serri neverthein Silence: Alfredo Serri, runs until less took a discreet artistic route, sellJanuary 18. ing artworks to the American market Eighty of the artist’s works are on dis- through the limited number of gallerplay, showcasing Serri’s intuitive use ies he aligned himself with, and hostof light and shade in his study of still ing few exhibitions. The Universe life and human form. Composes Itself in Silence is a tribute Serri was an active member of the to Serri’s quiet study of the intimate “Modern Painters of Reality” move- sphere, largely produced from his ment, which presented exhibitions Florentine studio in Via Guelfa. Open to the public gaze for judgement be- to the public free of charge, the exhitween 1947 and 1949, and published bition is curated by Stefano De Rosa a journal in Florence entitled Arte in and hosted by Ente Cassa di Rispar-

mio di Firenze in Florence in collaboration with Galleria Open Art of Prato.

The Universe Composes Itself in Silence: Alfredo Serri Until January 18, 2015 Exhibition space, Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, Via Bufalini, 6 Mon–Fri: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat & Sun: 10 a.m.–1 p.m.; 3–7 p.m. www.entecarifirenze.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Uffizi Presents Gold Unveiled Project The Uffizi Gallery has announced the arrival of Gold Unveiled, a new multimedia tour that connects visitors to some of the Uffizi’s oldest works as they looked in antiquity. Many ancient statues used to feature gold embellishment. Gold Unveiled uses non-invasive multimedia to show visitors traces of this gold now invisible to the naked eye. Works involved in the project include a statue of Minerva, a bust of Emperor Hadrian, the Medici Venus and the Ara Pacis commemorating the victories of Emperor Augustus, The exhibit is a big step into the twenty-first century for the famous art museum. “I am particularly proud of this initiative,” said Cristina Acidini, Superintendent of the State Museums of Florence, “as it is time to value the Gallery’s archaeological heritage, which represents the foundations of

the Uffizi’s collections.” The tour was designed by Christian Barandoni, archaeologist and expert in communications and ancient history methodology, and Fabrizio Paolucci, Director of the Department of Classical Antiquities at the Uffizi. It is also paired with a website (www. goldunveiled.it), social media and QR codes. The exhibit’s organizers anticipate that it will be a victory for the cross-section of art, science and learning. “The tools that today’s science puts at the disposition of visitors the Uffizi gives them the luxury of creating their own personal itinerary,” said Antonio Natali, Director of the Uffizi Gallery. “In this case one could, for example, get to know aspects about ancient marble that are no longer perceptible but which were once were essential in the design of the sculpture.”

Mentana Gallery Features Contemporary Art Exhibit Dec. 13-Jan. 10, 2015

Palazzo Strozzi Sprouts a Forest

The Mentana Art Gallery presents the exhibit Values of Continuity featuring both established and young artists from Italy and all over the world. The exhibit runs every day, except on Sundays when it will run only by appointment. Artists showcased include Francesca Coli, Annie Gheri, Clara Polvani, Bianca Vivarelli, Monica Pignat, Alessandro Mattia Mazzoleni, Maria Zaslavkaja and Elena Primashova, Ghenadie Popic, Ziv Cooper, Rolf e Marlene Horn and many more. For further information see: www.galleriamentana.it

Wood tiles and plastics strips stir in the breeze in the heart of a Renaissance-era palace that once belonged to one of Florence’s most influential families. An installation by artist Franco Menicagli fills the courtyard of Palazzo Strozzi until November 16, created from three columns and countless pieces of wood and plastic. Menicagli’s intention is to make the courtyard resemble a forest in order to transform perceptions of Renaissance space. The installation encourages people to look up from the confines of the classic Renaissance space because, as Menicagli asked, “Who doesn’t like looking at the sky?”

NEWS

Bargello Announces Donatello Restoration Complete The Bargello Museum has announced the restoration of Donatello’s bronze Crucifixion complete. The relief, originally completed between 1453 and 1454, underwent its most thorough restoration yet and is finally ready to be shown again in the Bargello. The restoration took six months and cost approximately €20,000, which was funded by Friends of Florence. The restoration took place in full view of visitors to the Bargello by restorer Ludovica Nicolai, who also cleaned Donatello’s David for the museum. It

has enlivened a surface darkened by dirt, wax, resin and varnish with an unprecedented new level of detail and beauty. “After this restoration, Donatello’s bronze Crucifixion has acquired a fulness of radiance and richness of detail that was truly unexpected before it was cleaned,“ said Cristina Acidini, Superintendent of the State Museums of Florence, “a scene now glimmering with myriad golden and silver reflections in heaven and on earth, lending glittering splendor to the drama of the Redemption.”

Riace Bronzes “Too Fragile” to be Moved

Free Museum Tours with Autunno ad Arte Enjoy autumn’s nippy afternoons indoors with free guided art tours (in Italian). Autunno ad Arte hosts two tours in November at the Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo Pitti:

Spotlight on the Twentieth Century This exhibition commemorates the centenary of the museum’s foundation by focusing on its impressive collection of twentieth-century works. Friday, November 7 at 3:30 p.m. Friday, November 21 at 3:30 p.m.

A pair of Ancient Greek statues known as the Riace Bronze are “too fragile” to be moved. This was the conclusion of a committee of scientific experts appointed by the Cultural Heritage Ministry, which advised against the transport of the statues from their home in Calabria to Milan Expo 2015.

After an examination of documentation available, the committee reported “various conservation problems in the sculptures,” citing “the presence of numerous and widespread micro-cracks and sealing problems from old welding that caused a weakening of the statues’ structural strength.”

Bookings are necessary and places are limited: Please call 055 284272 or email didattica@polomuseale. firenze.it. Cost: Normal ticket entry. Note: Tours are conducted in Italian and are designed for adults.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Realizing Leonardo’s Projects Exhibit showcases working models of Leonardo da Vinci’s designs

LUCY DAVID A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius. Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The rigor of practical and mechanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s approach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such

as his famous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. However, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be limited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies. In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact

that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war. Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms. A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of Syracuse, which Leonardo adapted to his own context. His modification of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so reduced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it. The Niccolai family has been reconstructing working models of Leonardo’s designs since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 250 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibi-

tions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zealand, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on permanent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour. Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scuba-diving apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that

INSIDE THE MICHELANGIOLO GALLERY, VIA CAVOUR, 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com

Leonardo left to science. Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the technological level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our theories and contributes to study indepth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.” Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million purchase of the Leicester Codex indicates, we have much to be grateful to Leonardo for: next time your car gets a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for inventing the jack. Leonardo da Vinci invented or modified several of the technological designs we associate with the twentieth century. Leonardo’s designs on display include the aerial screw (used in today’s helicopters), human robot, hydraulic drill, scuba-diving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, lifebuoy and jack.

The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci Michelangiolo Gallery Via Cavour, 21 Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m. Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more). Entrance, snack and drink promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.). 055 295 264 info@macchinedileonardo.com www.macchinedileonardo.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

NEWS

Strolling Florence Online

YouMODY.com opens the door to Florence’s workshops LUCY DAVID A new platform for shopping in Florence has been launched online. Entitled YouMODY, the concept enables consumers to “stroll” the streets of Florence virtually, and enter the city’s most prestigious shops and artisan workshops to buy products. It’s the first time such a comprehensive approach has been taken to online shopping in Florence. While the city is renowned for its craftsmanship, many of these traditional workshops

are hidden away in its maze of wind- the Italian market to publishing its ing streets. entire catalogue as e-books and acYouMODY’s objective is to make these tively promoting e-learning technolartisans more visible and enable ogy. Now managed by the founder’s them to be “visited” by a greater num- grandchildren Francesca, Domenico ber of virtual clients, in order to pro- and Lorenzo, Bulgarini combines mote the range and quality of items tradition with innovation to offer conhand-produced in Florence. sumers an entirely new concept. The project is the brainchild of Bul- “We have united Florence and the garini Publishers, a third-genera- ‘Made in Italy’ brand to enable those tion publication house. Founded in who can’t be here physically to stroll Florence in 1948 by Domenico Bul- the streets of Florence and go shopgarini, it has gone from producing ping,” says Lorenzo Bulgarini. and distributing scholastic books for Consumers can browse shops that

range in location from the city’s most exclusive thoroughfares, such as Via de’ Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, to the centrally located Via Porta Rossa, Via de’ Rondinelli and Via del Parione; and Borgo San Jacopo and Via de’ Bardi in the traditionally artisan Oltrarno district. Handmade items available include fine jewelry (Carlo Piccini), fashion jewelry (Carlo Cecchi, Vincenzo Spanò and Lo Spillo), tailored childrenswear (Anichini and Baroni) and menswear (Vittorio Di Giacomo), leather and tex-

tile bags (Bojola), tables inlaid with the Renaissance scagliola technique (Bianco Bianchi), mosaics (Mireille Valentin), sculptures (Cristiana Vitartali), engravings (Tommaso De Carlo), gilded woodwork (Masi), leather- and paper-bound books and stationery (Parione and Il Torchio), and artisan apothecary items (Antica Erboristeria Inglese), amongst others. Items can be purchased online via computer, smartphone or tablet, and are delivered free worldwide by specialized courier.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

NEWS

Florence to Host Peace Summit in 2015 Florence Mayor Dario Nardella has announced that the city will host a three-day peace summit next year. The conference will be held from October 2-4, 2015 and was announced with a Facebook post that included a photo of the signatures of those involved in the first such meeting 50 years ago. It is in honor of former Florence mayor Giorgio La Pira, who created the original peace conference and served as mayor in the wake of World War II. The conference intends to open a dialogue for peace by starting at the city level. Mayors from cities around the world, including cultural

and economic capitals and those currently facing war, are expected to attend the event. Nardella has already been in contact with several mayors from around the world and believes it will be an opportunity to open a dialogue between them in order to launch an appeal for “peace, solidarity and culture.” “Wars are at the threshold of our continent: we think towards Russia, Ukraine,” said Nardella. “The mayors and cities need to make their voices heard: the diplomacy of big cities can reach where those of the State cannot.”

Apple Store to Open in Piazza della Repubblica A new Apple Store is due to open in December in Piazza della Repubblica, with an inauguration expected before Christmas. The new mega store will be located in the former BNL bank building and comprise five levels. Apple’s arrival in Piazza della Repubbli-

ca has been some years in the making; in 2012 then-mayor Matteo Renzi was unable to push through plans for an Apple Store in the building previously occupied by the Edison bookstore due to restrictions governing the use of space for cultural activities only.

Sansovino, Franciabigio, Bugiardini and Sogliani, and later Bronzino, Poggini, Giovanni Bandini, Ciampelli, Tarchiani, Vannini and Antonio Novelli. The second portion of the exhibit features a comparison centered upon three themes: expressions of affection, the evidence of everyday objects, and the noble simplicity of holy events. The Pure, Simple and Natural offers the opportunity to undermine the cliché of a very conservative Florentine civic culture, revealing semantic changes and shedding light on the “novelty of tradition.”

Uffizi exhibition The Pure, Simple and a conservative one, examining the Natural in Art in Florence Between the identity of Florentine art through a Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries cross-reference of painting and sculphas been extended until January 6. ture. Andrea del Sarto and Santi di The exhibit seeks to challenge pre- Tito form the axis upon which the vailing ideas that Florence’s civic exhibit hangs, which also explores culture during the Renaissance was the roles played by the Della Robbias,

yellow jackets with the words “portabagagli autorizzato” inscribed to identify themselves to travelers, as organizers work to create a set uniform. Porters are available from 9 a.m till 7 p.m., and the service costs €6 to get to a taxi, €7 for a trip within two kilometers and €8 for more than two kilometers.

Pedestrianization of the city contin- bratory events. ues with plans for both Oltrarno and “By the end of the year, however, Piazzale Michelangelo to be car-free plans for the Oltrarno will already in 2015. see the involvement of initial events, Piazza del Carmine’s famous carpark such as a New Year’s Eve concert,” will be reduced to the piazza’s perim- said Florence mayor Dario Nardella. eter by January 12, clearing the center Nardella also announced plans to pefor use by pedestrians. City officials destrianize Piazzale Michelangelo: anticipate that the piazza will already “By the end of 2015 we will also free Pibe more pedestrian-friendly in time azzale Michelangelo of cars, creating for the holiday season, with plans for alternative parking spaces.” a Christmas market and other cele- Parking at Piazza del Carmine will be

• •

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Art in Florence Between the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries

Until January 6 Uffizi Gallery Tues – Sun: 8:15 a.m.– 6:50 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

All accessories for phones Cables Headphones Memory Cards Chargers Covers Special prices for students

Via Ghibellina, 96/r

replaced by an underground lot to be built near the Brancacci Chapel. The project will also create a total rehabilitation of the roads in the Oltrarno region around Ponte Santa Trinita, which is still awaiting pedestrianization after plans to do so were postponed, as indicated by former mayor Matteo Renzi. In the meantime, city officials are attempting to figure out new locations for the cars displaced by the project throughout the city.

CENTRO LUCE

THE COVER STORE BH Salon Firenze is a refined and contemporary salon, visibly focused on the world of fashion. Located in Borgo Ognissanti near Ponte alla Carraia and Santa Maria Novella square.

The Pure, Simple and Natural

Pedestrianization Continues

New App Helps Travelers with Luggage A new app that allows travelers to book a porter has come to Rome’s Termini Station and will soon be coming to Florence’s Santa Maria Novella. It costs between €6–8 to book a porter to help carry luggage across crowded platforms, notorious as sites of luggage theft. The porters currently wear bright

The Pure, Simple and Natural Extended Until Jan. 6

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Borgo degli Albizi, 91/r 055 24 69 318 centroluce09@gmail.com

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO

The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Open daily from 5 p.m.

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Antiquity Unearthed as Rome Celebrates Augustus

NEWS

Sistine Chapel Shines New in 3D A dazzling newly lit Sistine Chapel is shining after three years of preparations. The innovations enable the frescoes to survive the rigors of mass tourism, as the Vatican seeks to reduce the number of visitors to the chapel and the time of each visit. “Visitors to the Vatican Museums are going to be offered special disposable “intelligent glasses” that will enable them to explore the Sistine Chapel in 3D and go deeper into its history before the actual visit,” Vatican Museums Director Antonio Paolucci recently said.“The frescoes by Michelangelo

derived from the road’s height and the fact that it traces a route along Celebrations commemorating the Capitoline Hill. 2000th anniversary of Emperor Au- Rome’s ancient urban space has seen gustus’s death continue in Rome with a revival over the course of the 2014 the opening of an ancient street in the anniversary celebrations, with the Roman Forum following a four-year re-opening of the Baths of Diocletian after a six-year, €6.5 million restorestoration. The Vicus Iugarius formed part of a ration. Originally spanning more than salt trade route to the Tiber, and in 13 hectares, the monumental bath Imperial times became the main ar- complex included a 3500-square-metery linking the Roman Forum to the ter swimming pool, gymnasium, and libraries, and could accommodate up Campus Martius. According to sources left by ancient to 3000 people at the same time. In writer Livy, historians also believe September the partially restored Villa that the Vicus Iugarius was the main of Livia Drusilla opened to the pubroad through which triumphs and lic to allow visitors to enjoy a space processions entered the Forum. Al- used by Augustus and his third wife though its name is associated with Livia Drusilla for rest and relaxation yoke-makers, it is more likely to have throughout their 51-year marriage.

LUCY DAVID

The great-nephew and adopted son of Julius Caesar, Augustus not only brought peace and prosperity to an empire marked by 50 years of insurgencies but managed to avoid his adopted father’s fate through masterful PR and political nous. The Roman Empire was born as a result of his skilful diplomacy and management, and it expanded under his 40-year leadership to cover the whole of the Mediterranean basin, from Greece to the Maghreb, Turkey to Spain and into Germany, coinciding, in the words of curators involved in the anniversary events, “with the birth of a new artistic culture and language that continue even today to lie at the very root of Western civilisation.”

and other great painters will thank us themselves for these installations; the change of air and the control against pollutants together with the lighting will allow appreciation of both the entirety and the details of the Chapel.” The new lights, more than 7000 light-emitting diodes (LEDs) strategically placed on a rail-like structure perched high on the walls of the chapel to protect the artworks, were installed earlier this year by German company OSRAM as part of a project to commemorate the 450th anniversary of Michelangelo’s death.

Stolen Pompeii Artifact Returned 50 Years Later A 70-year-old Italian Canadian wom- theater at the archaeological site in an recently returned a first-century June 1964 during her honeymoon, AD terracotta roof decoration that and contacted Pompeii authorities to she stole from Pompeii. The woman return it. Police officials have decided repented her theft of the antefix – a not to fine her, in the hope that such carved vertical slab blocking the cov- acts of remorse will encourage other ering tiles of an ancient roof – from perpetrators of spontaneous archaeoa colonnaded courtyard behind the logical theft to follow her example.

International & national shipping service Packing material Full color digital copies Fax service Storage service Free pick up at school or home Monday to Friday: 9:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. & 3-6 p.m.

Corso dei Tintori, 39/r | Tel.: 055 24 66 660 | Fax.: 055 24 66 067

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

NEWS

Matera Named Vatican Synod Widens European Capital of Discussion on Same-Sex Couples Culture for 2019

The southern Italian city of Matera in Basilicata has beaten a group of other Italian cities to win the award of European Capital of Culture for 2019. Matera, known as the “City of Stone” for its UNESCO-listed historical center, won the prestigious title over Cagliari, Lecce, Perugia/Assisi, Ravenna and Siena. The European Capitals of Culture initiative was developed in 1985 and has been awarded to more than 50 cities across the European Union as host to cultural activities for a calendar year. It celebrates the diversity of Europe and pushes cities to extend their cultural development, and aims

to regenerate cities and raise the profile of lesser-known cities. The title is a huge honor for Materna, which hopes that the title will boost its tourist industry. “Matera’s designation is a sign of the civilisation and redemption that reaches Europe from Matera and the South,” said Salvadore Adduce, Mayor of Matera. Matera’s win has been particularly disappointing for Siena, which until last month was a favorite for the nomination. Florence hosted the event in 1986, the year after it was inaugurated in Athens.

At the request of Pope Francis, an assembly of 200 bishops, known as a Synod, was held last month to discuss family and the Church’s attitude towards homosexual couples. Although the initial tone of the conference seemed more welcoming, it ended without any consensus among the bishops on gays or whether Communion should be given to divorced and remarried Catholics. The final report was a shift from the first week’s document, entitled “Relatio”, that proposed contained finding “a fraternal space” for homosexuals while still adhering to the Church’s doctrine on family and marriage. While it did not change the longstanding opposition to gay marriage and homosexuality, it offered a more compassionate view than previous statements. “Without denying the moral problems connected to homosexual unions it has to be noted that there are cases in which mutual aid to the point of sacrifice constitutes a precious support in the life of the partners,” the document said. The document also said that homosexuals have “gifts and qualities to offer the Christian community” and questioned whether the Church is capable of welcoming those who hope to find “a Church that offers them a welcoming home.” It also considered opening up to heterosexual couples who were married in civil services or who were living together, saying such unions could have positive aspects, especially as a prelude to marriage in the Church. Bishops were urged not use the term “living in sin” when discussing these unions. During a press conference summa-

rizing the Synod’s first week of discussions Monsignor Bruno Forte, the Synod’s Special Secretary, responded to a question on legislation to protect cohabiting gay couples: “The Church does not believe that the term “family” can be used to refer both to a union between a man and a woman that is open to procreation and same-sex union. Having said this, it seems obvious to me that humans have different experiences and have rights that must all be protected. The issue here therefore, is not equating the two in all senses, including in terminological terms. Naturally, this does not mean that we should rule out looking for a way to describe the rights of people living in same-sex unions. It is a question – I think – of being civilized and respecting people’s dignity.” In contrast, the final report contained less welcoming language and

expressed alarm from conservative bishops who accused the church of sending an unclear message on marriage and homosexuality. Pope Francis also made an uncommon decision to allow the publishing of the final report, which shows vote tallies on each passage. In a final session the Pope, who previously said the Church must be more compassionate with homosexuals, warned the assembly against “hostile rigidity” by “so-called traditionalists,” and cautioning “progressives” who would “bandage a wound before treating it.” According to a Vatican spokesman, the bishops responded with a four-minute standing ovation in the closed-door meeting. Although no final say was made on the issues at hand, the Synod served the purpose intended by Pope Francis: to open up discussion among the Church and its officials before next year’s gathering.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

FOOD & WINE

Brunello di Montalcino Features in Japanese Manga Brunello di Montalcino has been immortalized in Japanese manga, appearing in The Drops of God series by Tadashi Agi and Shū Okimoto. Bottles of Brunello di Montalcino appear prominently in the comic strip, together with Italian wines Barolo and Rosso di Miani, in a storyline recounting the feud between two brothers vying for a $20 million legacy left by their father, a wine critic, in the form of bottles of wine. It’s not the first time that the Japanese artists have collaborated with Brunello di Montalcino. In 2009 Tadashi Agi and Shū Okimoto were invited by the Brunello

di Montalcino Wine Consortium to sign a commemorative plaque at its annual Benvenuto Brunello festival, which launches the new wine introduced to the market each year and confers prizes upon restaurants, wine bars and osterias that best represent Brunello di Montalcino. Produced near Siena, Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most expensive brands in Italy and was the first Italian wine to achieve DOCG status in 1980. Although put on the market after being aged for five years (six for Reserve), it is ideally suited to cellaring for 10 to 30 years but may be kept for longer.

Merano WineFestival until Nov. 11

Dining with Dante Named after Dante Alighieri’s most famous work, The Divine Comedy, this homely, rustic restaurant fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s House. The venue prides itself on its innovative and creative idea of preparing solely traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age but in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular occurrence at Taverna La Divina Commedia, as the venue regularly hosts tasting plates of assorted cheeses acrecitals from Dante’s great work by companied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot professional costumed performers. Traditional medieval-style dishes in- red pepper jam. Also serving as a clude home-made ribbon pasta with wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast offers an eclectic selection of wines shin of pork with new potatoes and from its cellar, an outdoor summer seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a by medieval Tuscan flavors, and medieval style with armour and ban-

MONTAGLIARI FARMHOUSE COOKING CLASSES & WINE TASTINGS Since 1720 Fattoria Montagliari has produced Chianti Classico DOCG, Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunesco di San Lorenzo IGT, grappa, brandy, amaro di San Lorenzo, aged vin santo, extra-virgin olive oil, and aged Trebbiano balsamic vinegar (20 and 28 years old). Products can be purchased from the online shop as well as in the farm store and restaurant. The farm, located in the heart of Chianti, offers cooking classes and wine tastings.

Bus stop: “Cappelli” between Lamole - Panzano in Chianti. V. Montagliari, 29 Panzano in Chianti 055 85 20 14 info@fattoriamontagliari.com www.fattoriamontagliari.com

Top Wines and Gastronomy on Display

Italy’s most important wine event, Merano WineFestival, runs until November 11. The Festival showcases top-quality wine from more than 500 selected Italian and international winemakers alongside products from more than 100 gastronomical masters and provides an opportunity for all those working in the wine and haute gastronomie industries to unite and compare ideas. At the heart of the program is Cult 2014, a special event dedicated to 40 winemakers that organizers believe have had the greatest impact on Italian wine history. Among these “pioneers of Italian wine” are Allegrini,

Biondi Santi Tenuta il Greppo, Cantine San Leonardo, Mastroberardino and Tenuta San Guido. The Culinaria section displays a selection of top Italian and international products while bio&dynamica explores the definition of “organic wine.” Visitors have plenty of opportunities to judge the quality of products themselves, with wine master classes on offer and an artisan beer section, and a gourmet food hall spread over 300 meters. Cooking shows also take place at the festival, with top chefs showing visitors how to achieve cuisine of the highest quality.

Nobile di Montepulciano Wine Seized ners – and, of course, a mandatory bust of Dante himself.

Taverna La Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7/r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

Authorities in Montepulciano have seized 312 hectoliters of wine, including wine intended to be marketed as Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, due to lack of documentation determining its origin. The seizure took place at a local winery after authorities began checking loads of grapes grown near Cortona in Arezzo, and discovered that the wine had been cellared without being officially registered. Authorities also found inconsisten-

cies related to hygiene and zoning. The confiscation follows the September seizure of 165,000 liters of fake Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino amounting to €1 million in market value after Italy’s Finance Police uncovered an elaborate fraud operation in which poor-quality wine was falsely marketed to wineries and trade customers. It is believed that none of the affected wine had yet been sold to customers.

HOME DELIVERED AND POURED WINE IN S. SPIRITO Bring your bottle to be filled for less than €1.50, straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wine in bottles or barrels sourced throughout Tuscany and Italy, as well as spirits and digestives. Il Santo Vino also provides a home-delivery service alongside selected local specialty and organic products, such as truffled goods, honey, jam, coffee and a variety of Sicilian spreads.

Monday: 5–9 p.m. Tues. to Sun.: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122 // 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com mariella.croda@yahoo.it Skype: ilsantovino

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

FOOD & WINE

La Buchetta: Named from the Source Historical Wine Tabernacles Revives with Local Wine Restaurant

CHIARA FONZI Located in the upper part of Via de’ Benci near Ponte alle Grazie, wine bar and restaurant La Buchetta derives its name from a longstanding local tradition of wine tabernacles, which in Florentine dialect were called “buchette.” Too small for people, too low to be used as windows, and with a consistent architectural style: a 40-centimeter door-like hole closed by a wooden shutter, crowned by an arch and framed by bricks. These are the so-called “wine tabernacles” of Florence, tiny doors once property of the richest families in town, which can still can be seen on the facades of some Florentine palaces. Although they are called tabernacles, they are not of religious significance. At the end of the sixteenth century, northern Europe, especially England,

presented tough competition to Florentine merchants, in particular in the textile markets. Because of this, Florentine families abandoned the business that had made them rich and began a more profitable investment: land. Once established as landowners and wine producers, they began selling their products from cellars in town directly to the consumer, rather than to taverns, leading to the birth of tabernacles as the means of wine vending. The holes were open in the wine producers’ buildings up until the eighteenth century, when the culture of wine selling changed. Today Florence has maintained the wine tradition, with its wine shops and enotecas that join restaurants and bars in the market of wine selling. But where are yesterday’s wine tabernacles? Some of them have been

sealed, but others can still be visited. Piazza Strozzi: The “Strozzino” building, dating to 1420, was designed by Michelozzo for the rich and traditionally mercantile Strozzi family. Piazza Santa Croce: Here visitors can start a real wine tabernacle hunt, with many facing the square from each corner. Via dei Benci, 20: Still the property of the Mellini-Fossi family, this building was designed by Simone del Pollaiuolo and erected in the seventeenth century. The facade still boasts refined and well-preserved frescoes. Via Dante: A door can be found on the walls of the building once owned by the Giuochi family on the side facing Badia Fiorentina. Via del Proconsolo, 10: On the corner of Borgo Albizi. Palazzo Pazzi Quaratesi has a tabernacle at the side of the main entrance.

La Buchetta Via de’ Benci, 3/3a 055 21 78 33 www.labuchetta.com

University of Pisa Patents New Olive Oil-Extraction Method

The University of Pisa has devised a new and patented method of extracting extra-virgin olive oil. Designed by agricultural scientists at the University of Pisa led by Professor Gianpaolo Andrich, the innovative technique uses dry ice (solid carbon dioxide) to achieve a nine percent average higher yield (17.4kg instead of 16kg of product per ton of olives), which contains six percent more vitamin E and is more resistant to oxidation. The addi-

tion of dry ice before pressing freezes the water inside the olives, leading to a collapse of cellular structure and the creation of a more biologically rich oil, protected from contact with oxygen by a layer of gas. The new technique is welcome news for olive oil manufacturers, as the increase in yield makes early harvesting economically viable, which in turn limits the damage caused by pests that adversely affect the harvest.

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends. Specialty:

TUNA STEAK

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 info@sancarlofirenze.it www.sancarlofirenze.it

Farewell, Pasta al Dente?

Increase in CO2 may mean goodbye to pasta al dente in 30-40 years The estimated increase of carbon dioxide concentration of 30-40 percent over the next 40 years could affect the texture of pasta al dente, pride of the Italian table. Researchers have studied the behavior of 12 varieties of durum wheat grown in field conditions in an atmosphere containing about 570 ppm of CO2, which is the concentration expected in 2050. The result showed a general increase in plant biomass and production of grain, however, this was associated with a decrease in the protein content. The increase in plant biomass and production is a direct consequence of the effect of CO2 fertilizer. In some

varieties production increase reached up to 20 percent as protein content influenced the “tightness” of the cooked pasta. The only solution to this issue would be a forward-looking, genetic improvement that could create new varieties to yield to the increase in atmospheric CO2 in order to avoid or reduce the negative impact on the quality of the product. With the help of technology that can predict the foreseeable future, the Barilla Group has developed wheat varieties with characteristics adapted to different climates and assures consumers that the issue poses “no problems for Italian pasta.”

Monthly Recipe: Spaghetti allo Scoglio Ingredients: • 500g mussels • 500g clams • 4 cloves of garlic • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil • 4 tablespoons of chopped parsley • 4 prawns • 300 g calamari • 320 g spaghetti • ½ cup white wine • 300 gr cherry tomatoes • Mixed fish broth

Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it

Preparation: Heat the garlic in olive oil. Add the mussels and clams with white wine and cook until they open. Then add the cut calamari, shrimps and prawns with cherry tomatoes. Cook the sauce for 5 minutes, just long enough to cook the seafood. As soon as the pasta is cooked with the fish broth, toss it into the sauce and serve with parsley.

THANKSGIVING

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

As American as Pumpkin Pie

Celebrating Thanksgiving in Florence EMILY OUTTARAC & JULIET STEPHENSON Although the sweet smell of Thanksgiving turkey and buttery mashed potatoes aren’t customary here, Florence’s American population have plenty of options to enjoy this tradition away from home. Thanksgiving is more than just food. The tradition of giving thanks started with the Wampanoag Native Americans of southeastern Massachusetts who held festivities in celebration of a successful harvest. After similarly experiencing a successful harvest in 1621, the pilgrims invited the Wampa-

noags to a three-day harvest feast. Although experts have found multiple occurrences of Thanksgiving-style celebrations, this feast is commonly referred to as the “First Thanksgiving.” Over the years, Thanksgiving was celebrated sporadically until Sarah Josepha Hale, magazine editor of Godey’s Lady’s Book, led a campaign to make Thanksgiving a national holiday in the mid-nineteenth century. Hale even wrote to President Abraham Lincoln about her belief that the holiday could unite the Civil War-divided country. In 1863 Lincoln declared the final Thursday in November as the nation-

al day of Thanksgiving. Yet it wasn’t until 1941 that Congress finally signed legislation and made Thanksgiving an official national holiday, and it has since developed into a beloved American tradition. The inclusion of pie as an essential element in Thanksgiving is actually a common misconception. The first pumpkin pie was not recorded until 1675, in an English cookbook. It was similar to a pumpkin pie, made with spices and boiled squash but wasn’t replicated in America until the early 1800s. The origins of the pie can be traced back to the Greeks, who are thought to have invented the pastry shell.

From there, the Romans started putting meats such as mussels or other types of seafood in the pastry, and also began serving pie as a sweet dessert too. The term ‘pye’ actually developed in medieval England, where it was stuffed with different kinds of meat such as beef, lamb and wild game. However, there could be a little truth to the presence of the pumpkin pie at the First Thanksgiving. When the settlers first arrived, they began copying the Native Americans by roasting and boiling the squash as a source of food, in fact fundamental to their diets. So perhaps pumpkin was indeed present at the First Thanksgiving

– just not in the form we associate it with today. Later, settlers attempted to make pumpkin more appetizing by cutting open the top, scooping out the seeds, and pouring milk, honey, and other spices into the pumpkin before cooking. Some say this is the first pumpkin pie prototype, gradually evolving into the dish we know today as a staple on our Thanksgiving tables. Regardless of whether you have turkey or prosciutto, Thanksgiving in Florence is a great opportunity to share a homegrown tradition with Italians and other foreigners – after all, who can say no to another serving of pumpkin pie?

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Christmas Markets and German Traditions in Santa Croce From Dec. 3-21

CHRISTMAS

Moscow Ballet Presents Swan Lake

Moscow Ballet presents Swan Lake on December 8, the feast day dedicated to the Madonna. The performance, which is divided into two acts, will be repeated twice during the day, at 4:45 p.m. and 8:45 p.m. at Teatro Verdi in Via Ghibellina, 99. Tickets can be purchased at the theater’s box office and

Florence’s Christmas markets bathe the city’s piazzas and buildings in a warm wintery glow once again from the end of November, as Piazza Santa Croce transforms into a German Christmas market from December 3–21. Fifty-five wooden house-shaped kiosks take over the piazza, with stalls selling products from various European countries. Traditional German alpine crafts and foods are the main feature of the market, which offers tastings of such specialties as pork shanks, sauerkraut, pretzels, strudel, and of course beer, mulled wine and sweets. The market is open daily from 10 a.m. till 10 p.m. (until 8 p.m. on Sunday, December 21). Fortezza da Basso hosts Christmas

in the City for the first time from December 11–14, with a range of gift items and gastronomic products on display, as well as a dedicated children’s space featuring Santa Claus. The fair runs from 3–8 p.m. on Thursday, December 11 and throughout the day from Friday to Sunday (11 a.m.–8 p.m.). Entrance costs €5 and is free for children under 12. If you’re looking for that last-minute gift idea then Piazza Santo Spirito hosts a Christmas-themed fair of organic and hand-made products from 9 a.m. till 7 p.m. on December 21. The Italian Red Cross in Florence keeps the Christmas spirit alive with its annual Christmas market at Teatro Obihall from November 21–23. It’s the

cost upwards of €20. Over the years, Moscow Ballet has boasted acclaimed and award-winning prima ballerinas, including Svetlana Smirnova, Predenia and Marina Alexandrova, and has performed in major theaters across the United States.

Ski on the Banks of the Arno

perfect occasion for buying all your Christmas gifts in one place, featuring Italian gastronomic excellence, clothes, festive decorations, arts and crafts and games. The market was Firenze Winter Park is open until devised to raise funds for the charity, March 1 at Obihall, offering skiing and therefore differs from other mar- and winter activities. kets in that its proceeds go towards The park has indeed let it snow in Florhelping the needy. The Florentine ence, with a real snow piste designed Red Cross is an invaluable service for skiing and snowtubing. Races can in the area, providing the most dis- also be organised on the piste, with advantaged with clothes, food, and competitions arranged between ski financial support. Unfortunately, in club members that include prizes, the holiday period, the number of re- videos and photos. Next to the slope quests for aid more than double. Buy- is an indoor 18 x 36m ice-skating rink, ing your gifts from this market will open to beginners and experts alike, ensure you contribute just a little this with dedicated hours given to skaters Christmas; which is, after all, a holi- in training and professional competiday for giving. tions.

The park also hosts a restaurant in a ski resort-style wooden hut, where patrons can warm up and enjoy dinner or lunch afterwards, while the cafe serving hot drinks and snacks is an ideal spot from which to observe the activities from the sidelines.

Firenze Winter Park Until March 1 Obihall Theatre Via Fabrizio De Andrè 055 65 04 112 www.firenzewinterpark.it

LAMPREDOTTO AND OTHER TYPICAL FLORENTINE SANDWHICHES

LIVE JAZZ, BLUES & ROCK & ROLL

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES

The NOF club is hosting live music and jams every night excpet Sundays with bands of upmost quality, covering an array of musical genres from jazz to indie, blues to rock and roll.

Located near Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands. Services include:

ADMISSION IS FREE

To check the program of the club go to the facebook page: www.facebook.com/NofGallery.

• • • • • • • • • •

Haircuts Long-length extensions Keratin reconstruction Paul Mitchell product retailer ESSIE Gel reconstruction and permanent enamel Waxing Massage (healing and relaxation) Custom make-up Cut, color and highlight Acrylic nail care

9 a.m.– 7.30 p.m. (Just a few steps from Piazza Signoria)

PIAZZA DE' CIMATORI • WWW.ANTICOTRIPPAIO.IT

Borgo San Frediano, 17/r Mon. to Sat.: 8 p.m. - 3 a.m.

Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49–51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

CITY INFO TOURIST INFORMATION COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students.

Courses include: Market tour & cooking class, Four-course dinner, Easy dinner, Easy lunch, Home-made pasta, Pizza & gelato

Via dei Velluti, 18 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org info@intavola.org

Firenze Turismo .... 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Commune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Florence Airport .................................... 055 31 58 74 Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30a.m.–8:30p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Commune ................................................ 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it Bigallo loggia ........................................... 055 28 84 96 Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES

Sandwiches, wine & glee

4€

Lunch Sandwich + drink

HAIRDRESSING SALON IN VIA DE’ BENCI KITCHEN BAR Brunch 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Lunch 12 p.m. – 4 p.m. Dinner 7 p.m. - 10 p.m. (Tapas from 4 p.m. - 7 p.m.)

Borgo degli Albizi, 20/r

Via Ghibellina, 76/r (near Santa Croce) 055 38 80 062 www.levespecafe.com

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Shampoo & dry (short) ......... €15/€16 Shampoo & dry (long) ......... €18/€20 Cut .................................................... €15 Perm ............................................... €30 Color [tips] ...................................... €24 Color [full] ....................................... €32 Toning .............................................. €17 Highlights with headset ............... €29 Highlights with spatula ................ €32 Woven highlights ........................... €41 Two-toned highlights .................. €62 Shampoo & cut (men) .................. €20

Tue. to Thurs.: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Fri. to Sat.: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Via dei Benci, 37r 055 234 48 85

Police – emergency .................................................. 113 Police – carabinieri .................................................... 112 Police – municipal .............................. 055 32 83 333 Ambulance .................................................................... 118 Fire department .......................................................... 115 Tourist medical service ..................... 055 21 22 21 Poison Center ....................................... 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) ............................... 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) .......................................... 116 Obstruction& towed vehicle ........... 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services ..................... 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline .................................................... 114 Emergency vet services ................ 055 72 23 683 Environmental emergency response .............. 1515 Lost & Found (Florence office) ........ 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) ........................... 800 42 45 00 BluBlus (www.blubus.it) .................... 800 27 78 25 SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ......... 800 37 37 60 CAP (www.capautolinee.it) ............... 055 21 46 37 Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ............. 058 35 87 897 TRAIN Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) ................. 89 20 21 Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ....................... 06 07 08 TAXI Radio Taxi Firenze ......................................... 055 42 42

Lorenzo de’ Medici

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA

LIVE SPORTS

Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant and Pizzeria is an elegant yet reasonably priced spot situated right in the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the Medici Chapel, the church of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo market, and no more than 200m from the Fortezza da Basso. It is the ideal restaurant to try traditional Florentine dishes or pizza cooked in the wood-ﬁred oven. The perfect restaurant for tourist groups, business dinners, meetings or private dining.

GET 20% OFF WITH YOUR STUDENT DISCOUNT CARD Via del Giglio, 49 // 055 21 29 32 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

CITY INFO OPENING TIMES BAPTISTRY OF SAN GIOVANNI* Piazza San Giovanni 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun and 1st Sat of every month: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. July 4– Sept 28: Thurs–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–11 p.m. Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, Sat before Easter & Easter Mon), April 25 & May 1: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, Sept 8, Dec 24 & 25. BOBOLI GARDENS* 055 23 88 786 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. CATHEDRAL CUPOLA* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Mon–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sat: 8:30 a.m.–5:40 p.m. Closed Sun; Jan 1; Jan 6; Thurs–Fri–Sat before Easter; Easter; June 24; Aug 15; Sept 8; Nov 1; Dec 8; Mon & Tues of the first week of Advent; Dec 25 & 26. Note: 463 stairs by foot only, no lift. GIOTTO’S BELL TOWER* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; January 6: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. Note: 414 stairs by foot only, no lift VASARI CORRIDOR Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 055 29 48 83 Available to private groups only: contact Uffizi Gallery for information. MUSEUMS ACCADEMIA GALLERY* Via Ricasoli, 58/60 055 23 88 612 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI* Via Cavour, 3 055 27 60 340

Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Wed.

Closed 2 & 4 Sun, and 1 , 3 & 5 Mon of the month; Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.

BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM* Via del Proconsolo, 4 055 23 88 606 Daily: 8:15 a.m.–1.50 p.m. Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month; Jan 1 & Dec 25.

PALAZZO PITTI* Piazza Pitti, 1 Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 614 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Royal Apartments closed every year during Jan for maintenance. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Costume Gallery 055 23 88 801 / 23 88 713 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Gallery of Modern Art 055 2388601 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Silverware Museum (Museo degli Argenti) Piazza Pitti, 1 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Porcelain Museum 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:15 p.m. (6:15 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. (5:15 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:15 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

CATHEDRAL MUSEUM (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Piazza del Duomo, 9 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 9 a.m.–1:45 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. DANTE HOUSE MUSEUM * Via Santa Margherita, 1 055 21 94 16 April–Sept Daily: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Oct–March Tues–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Mon (Oct 1–March 31), Dec 24 & 25. GALILEO MUSEUM * Piazza dei Giudici, 1 055 26 53 11 Mon & Wed–Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Tues: 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. JEWISH MUSEUM * Via Farini, 6 055 23 46 654 June–Sept: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Oct–May: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.– 5:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sat, Jan 1, Dec 25 & Jewish holidays. MICHELANGELO’S HOUSE (Casa Buonarroti)* Via Ghibellina, 70 055 24 17 52 Mon & Wed–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tues, Jan 1, Easter & Dec 25. NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM* Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b 055 23 57 720 / 23 575 Tues–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat–Mon: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO DAVANZATI * Via Porta Rossa, 13 055 23 88 610 Daily: 8:15–1:30 p.m.

PALAZZO STROZZI* Piazza Strozzi 055 27 76 461 Piano Nobile: Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun: 9 a.m.–8 p.m. and Thurs: 9 a.m.–11 p.m. CCC Strozzina: Tues–Wed & Fri–Sun: 10 a.m.–8p.m.; Thurs: 10 a.m.–11 p.m. Closed Mon.

Sixty museums in 72 hours with the Firenze Card Become a Friend of the Uffizi For €40 for youth under 25, €60 for an adult and €100 for a family (two adults and two children), the card offers a calendar year’s worth of free privileged entrance to the following museums: Uffizi Gallery Accademia Gallery The Pitti Palace The Palatine Gallery & Royal Apartments The Gallery of Modern Art The Costume Gallery The Medici Treasury The Porcelain Museum The Boboli Gardens The Bardini Gardens Bargello National Museum Museum of the Medici Chapels Museum of Palazzo Davanzati Museum of San Marco Garden of the Medici Villa of Castello Medici Villa of Petraia Medici Villa of Poggio a Caiano Medici Villa of Cerreto Guidi & Historical Hunting Territorial Museum Cenacolo of Ognissanti Cenacolo of Andrea del Sarto Cenacolo of Fuligno Cenacolo of Sant’Apollonia Cloister of the Scalzo www.amicidegliuffizi.it

The Firenze Card is your one-stop pass to the museums, churches and gardens of Florence. For €72 it offers: • 72 hours of free access to 60 of Florence’s most popular and important museums, churches and gardens, including current exhibitions, permanent collections and museum activities; • Free use of public transport within Florence; • Immediate access to busy museums – skip long queues and pre-booking; • Your choice of start date: the clock doesn’t start ticking until you enter your first museum; • Dedicated smartphone application to help find the museums, access free wi-fi and give you updated information on exhibits and events; • Though the card can only be used once in each museum by one person, it also allows free entrance for EU citizens under 18 who are members of the same family unit of the cardholder. See the website for full details: www.firenzecard.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

CITY BEAT

Reinventing Suitcases

At the Students’ Table

Meet Pino of Salumeria Verdi and Pozzodivino

The first company to introduce the American novelty of rigid suitcases to the Italian market, Valigeria Gazzarrini is a historic shop in Florence, one that has marked the commercial history of the city. The combination of innovation and determination that has characterized the company since its beginnings in 1911, when founder Giuseppe Gazzarrini bought the leather manufacturing firm at which he worked to begin specializing in suitcases, is the reason for its swift rise to success. By the 1920s Gazzarrini was already recognized for the quality of its products at national and international trade

To the seasoned student in Florence, Pino is a man who needs no introduction. He is the proud owner of Salumeria Verdi on Via Giuseppe Verdi, a deli and cafe that happily opens its doors to tourists, students and locals. He has attained something of a cult status, particularly among students visiting from America. Some of Pino’s panini are even named after students who left a particular impression, such as ‘Mister Talk,’ and ‘Emily’. fairs, and four generations later it Another option on the menu is ‘The supplies top leather good and travel Best,’ so-named by Pino in response to the many tourists and students alaccessories worldwide. Today the story continues in the vein ways asking, ‘’Which one’s the best?’’ of its Florentine artisan roots, with a Pino will proudly tell you that it is not dual focus on quality Italian goods uncommon for students returning to such as Labiena 1856 and Orobianco, Florence to show up at his business and emerging trends in international with spouses wives and children. brands, including Longchamp, Tumi In fact, Pino fondly recalls serving a sandwich to a former customer 11 and Samsonite. years after he had left Florence. Valigeria Gazzarrini Pino is somewhat humbled by his recognition, and attributes his populariOpen daily: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. ty to treating anybody in his cafe “as Via Porta Rossa, 71-73/r if they were family”, and to his three 055 21 27 47 info@valigeriagazzarrini.com pillars of service – “qualitá, prezzo, www.valigeriagazzarrini.com accoglienza” – quality, price and hospitality. Born of a desire by Pino and his wife Antonella to go one step ahead of similar vendors by modernising the stan• Daycare or overnights at our fa- dard panino and studying flavors that cilities or walks and check-ins go well together, Salumeria Verdi has grown in both size and success since from your location; • Two long walks per day and fre- its inauguration in the late 1980s. It employs ingredients from all over Itquent outings; • Updates and photos of your pets aly, a factor that is extremely important for its owners, who aim to provide during their stay; • Secured garden for urgent bath- tourists with more than just a taste of Florence, with such produce as pesroom needs; • No cages; pets are free to roam to from Liguria and cheese from the south. and sleep where they like; This is an element consciously influ• 24-hour companionship; enced by Pino’s background. Born in • Bathing and nail-clip offered.

Pet Sitting in Florence Dedicated to the personalized care of four-legged family members, Florence Pet Sitting offers doggie daycare and boarding, and national and international pet transport. We welcome all types of animals, including special needs pets, and are open year-round, including holidays. Located in S. Spirito in the Oltrarno 345 693 6081 www.florencepetsitting.com florencepetsitting@gmail.com

Naples, an Italian region known for quality ingredients, Pino moved to Turin with his family at the age of six. Like many Italian migrants who travelled north in the ‘60s and ‘70s, the family’s move was propelled by a search of work and opportunities. Pino settled permanently in Florence after meeting Antonella here, and thus this second permanent move was made for love. Today Salumeria Verdi resembles a veritable ‘Tardis’ (for non-fans of Doctor Who, that’s a space that seems small from the exterior yet is gigantic inside): stretching to the length of three shops, the original delicatessen has expanded into a panini shop with abundant choices to create your own fillings (much like most American equivalents), and boasts space with some 20 tables and chairs. The Salumeria is quite frankly a feast

for the eyes (as well as the hungry stomach); the colors and smells emanating from the place are an irresistible mélange that regularly see queues out the door. Whether drawn by hunger pangs, the itch to get creative with panini fillings or simply the desire to drop into a Florentine institution and share a few words of wisdom with the great man himself, Salumeria Verdi is well worth a visit. Who knows? Maybe Pino will name a sandwich after you.

Salumerica Verdi Via Giuseppe Verdi, 36/r 055 244517 www.salumeriaverdi.it

Enoteca Pozzo Divino Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 2466907 www.pozzodivino.eu

Your pizza & covaccino near Santo Spirito

SPECIAL OFFERS

Slice of pizza + 500ml water: €3.50 Whole margherita pizza + 500ml water: €5.50 Whole margherita pizza + Coke: €6 Maxi 19.6” pizza margherita (for 3-4 people): €15 Cover & service charge included

Piazza di San Felice, 2/r • 055 22 07 091

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by OneEyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone.

Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com

Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK

Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it info@daqueiganzi.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

ARTISANS

Take Home Artisan Tradition Meet Paolo of Furò e Punteruolo

A ‘Historic Shop’ in Via Calzaiuoli

LUCY DAVID Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega producing finely crafted leather bags, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself. Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather full-time for six years, he’s already made a name for himself

both in Florence and as far afield as Japan. However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability. “In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the genetic

heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo. Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

A Piece of Venice for Christmas

Murano glass and carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian, located at Corso dei Tintori, 19 (near Santa Croce) is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made

items and that guarantees the sale of purely Murano products, with no importation. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home. Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the

ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience. Paola’s customers tell her that prices in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice. If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as papier-mâché masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

Alvise Giustinian Corso Tintori, 19/r 055 246 62 95 www.alvisegiustian.com

BAR GELATERIA COMBATTENTI THE BAR STARTED BY A WWI FIGHTER Located just inside Porta San Giovanni, bar and gelateria Caffé Combattenti serves artisan-quality, homemade Tuscan ice-creams and products. The first gelateria established in town, since 1924 the Bar Combattenti offers saffron and lively wine-flavored gelatos next to traditionally prepared bruschetta, pizza, panini, and pasta, as well as Tuscan salami and pecorino cheeses. Also available are classic Tuscan treats such as ricciarelli and cantucci, grappa, extra-virgin olive oil, and local truffle products, as well as gluten-free products.

Via San Giovanni, 124 San Gimignano 0577 940 391 328 06 07 267 barcombattenti@libero.it

Palazzo Belfiore hotel in the centre of Florence is the residence of an ancient fourteenth-century family, situated in Florence near the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens and Santo Spirito. Located in a quiet area in the city centre, it is in the heart of one of the traditional Florentine quarters rich in handicraft shops, antique shops and typical restaurants. Palazzo Belfiore is perfect solution for your holidays in Florence.

Via de’ Velluti, 8 055 26 44 15 info@residencebelfiore.it www.palazzobelfiore.it

Geronico Embraces Third Generation When, in 1919, shortly after the end of WWI, Pietro Geronico came to Florence from the lakes district in northern Italy, he was only a young boy looking to make a living. He was born in 1899 in a small city not far from the Lake Maggiore, where most people employed themselves in repairing umbrellas. Repairing umbrellas was Pietro’s first job in Florence. Soon after he was hired by a shop in Via Calzaiuoli that sold bags and umbrellas, of which in the turn of a few months he became the manager. It was the first step towards a brilliant career. Pietro decided to open his own shop, in the same street as the one he was working for. He named it with his surname: Geronico. This was in 1929, just 10 years after his move to Florence. In the early stages of the Geronico store, the core business was umbrellas. Alongside umbrellas, Geronico sold travel bags and handbags of all sorts, as well as leather and fur to produce other items, as it was common practice at that time. It was only between the

late 1950s and the early ‘60s, a time of vast and sudden expansion in Italian fashion, that the shop changed its profile and became international. To adjust to the demands of a rapidly changing market, it reduced its sales to leather goods, including travel and work bags, evening and formal handbags, and a wide assortment of high-quality items made exclusively in Italy. During this time, Florence was known as the “district of leather,” and thanks to stylists such as Ferragamo and Gucci became the capital of Italian fashion, until in the 1970s it was replaced by Milan. Today Geronico, which recently received the award of “historical shop” by the Comune di Firenze, is run by Marina, third-generation member of the Geronico family. Marina has renewed the shop, turning it into an elegant contemporary boutique, while at the same time preserving its classical essence. Notice the handmade umbrellas at the entrance to the shop, remnants of Geronico’s past.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

FESTIVALS

Swap Goods for Accommodation

Florence on a Plate Food and Wine Biennale from Nov. 10-30 Gastronomy takes over Florence for 21 days with the Florence Food & Wine Biennale from November 10–30. Born from the desire to promote traditional Florentine cuisine in the context of history and art, the event is staged across restaurants, shops, piazzas and historic buildings with a full program of dinners, wine-tastings, presentations, shows, food itineraries and markets. Events include the presentation of rare traditional dishes drawn from the city’s collective memory and prepared by restaurants; a gathering of master gelato-makers to design a flavor for this year’s biennale; and a dis-

Bartering Week from Nov. 17-23 JIAH LONG Clients of Italian bed & breakfast venues are invited to barter goods and services in exchange for accommodation during Bartering Week, an original initiative launched by the Italian Bed & Breakfast Association, which takes place from November 17 to 23. Visitors to Florence are able to choose from more than 25 B&B members on the Bartering Week website and offer such goods and services as homemade marmalade, DVD collections, music lessons, gardening and plumbing services. Bartering options are infinite, and potential guests can make an offer as long as it is serious, respectful and original. Those looking for inspiration can view B&B personal wishlists online. The original initiative was launched on the Italian website bedandbreakfast.it to promote B&Bs, the demand for which has increased in the wake

of the global economic slowdown. The popularity of bartering websites has soared as consumers look for new shopping methods to counter the effects of the credit crunch, and the worldwide organized barter exchange and trade industry has grown to an $8 billion-a-year industry and is used by thousands of businesses and individuals. Swap parties, where people meet to exchange goods and services, were developed in the USA and are quickly spreading throughout other countries, including Italy. One of the first businesses to take part in the event was Le Fate Apartments in Rome, located in the buzzing and accessible Trastevere area, which offers something for everyone from world-class restaurants to happening nightlife. Le Fate Apartments participate in the bartering experience but welcome customers all year round. Contact Fabrizio on 333 444 5835 or visit info@lefateapartments.it.

play of food-inspired marble sculptures by Florentine artist Antonio Lo Pinto, including representations of Florence’s iconic bistecca fiorentina in red French and white Carrara marble. Organized by Confesercenti Firenze under the artistic direction of journalist Leonardo Romanelli, the Florence

Food & Wine Biennale is inspired by late Florentine journalist Leo Codacci, acclaimed for his contribution to the promotion and preservation of Florence and Tuscany’s culinary traditions. Further information can be found at www.biennaleenogastronomica.it

Restoring Our Artistic Heritage ELKE NUMEYER -WINDSHUTTLE The Florence Art and Restoration Fair returns to Fortezza da Basso for its fourth edition from November 13 to 15. Dedicated to the restoration of our artistic heritage, the fair opens its doors from 9:30 a.m. till 6:30 p.m., bringing together institutions, companies, schools and training organisations in a guest list expected to exceed 200,000 people. Approximately 1500 delegates and organisations from around the world meet to discuss the theme “Heritage and Landscape as Human Values,” which aims to encourage collaboration between Italian and international companies, and share information and the latest research. Boasting a more interactive experience for visitors than previous oc-

casions, the fair also showcases an extensive range of art and sculptures, as well as training sessions and educational activities. Guests are also invited to host a cultural or scientific event in reserved areas at the exhibition center upon approval. “We are sure that, thanks to a series of international agreements and partnerships with high-profile personalities, companies and organisations, the Fair can truly put itself at the service of culture, providing real solutions for the needs of the cultural heritage market,” said Franco Sot-

tani, the event’s president. The Florence Art and Restoration Fair is non-profit event, working in partnership with the18th International Assembly of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), which is takes place at the same time.

Florence Art & Restoration Fair November 13–15 Fortezza da Basso 9:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m www.salonerestaurofirenze.org

SOFT DRINK R O CCO

THE BEST SUBS IN TOWN Sandwiches Salads Soups Onion Rings Fries Pasta Fresh Fruit

Mon. - Sat. 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Via Sant'Egidio, 22/r 347 11 88 056 theoilshoppe.it

DRINKS AND MORE ON VIA DE’ NERI Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need at a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

FASHION

A Homage to Design Fashionistas Flock to ModaPrima 77

Piero Tosi on Display Palazzo Pitti’s Costume Gallery is currently paying tribute to notable exponents of twentieth-century fashion. The exhibition Tribute to the Maestro Piero Tosi: The art of stage costumes from the Tirelli bequest comes in the wake of the Honorary Governors Award given to Tosi in 2013 in recognition of his lifetime contribution to costume design in film. The 15 Tosi costumes featured form part of the Tirelli Donation, bequeathed to the Costume Gallery by master costume designer and tailor Umberto Tirelli, and span Tosi’s brilliant career. “This selection of costumes from the Tirelli Donation not only notes Tosi’s creativity in a variety of ages and types, but takes us through the best films of the greatest Italian directors of the twentieth century,” said Cristina Acidini, Superintendent of the State Museums of Florence. Tosi was nominated for five Oscars for costume design between 1964 and 1983. Tosi was nominated for five Oscars for costume design between 1964 and 1983. The exhibit features several of his costumes created for films including Medea, Ludwig and The Innocent.

Requiring the total rearrangement of Palazzo Pitti’s Costume Gallery, Twentieth-Century Women Protagonists showcases the garments and accessories of prominent twentieth-century women. The exhibition’s “protagonists” are those women noted for creativity within their various fields, including Rosa Genoni, Eleonora Duse, Donna Franca Florio, Maria Cumani, and avid fashion collectors Anna Piaggi and Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini. Creations by Schuberth, known as the “dressmaker to the stars,” made for Antonella Cannavò Florio are also on display, along with items from the legendary 1000-piece wardrobe belonging to novelist Anna Rontani, and garments worn by Patty Pravo.

The 77th edition of international fash- Participants from 50 countries are exion show ModaPrima returns to Flor- pected to attend, led by Japan, which ence from November 21–23 at Stazi- has represented the largest body of one Leopolda. ModaPrima buyers in years past, and Hosted by Pitti Immagine, ModaPri- including companies from Greece, ma is highly anticipated event on the Great Britain, Hong Kong, South Kofashion buyer calendar that presents rea, Ireland, Switzerland, Poland, ready-to-wear fashion trends and Sweden and Canada. Last year’s ediaccessories and, most importantly, tion saw more than 1,700 buyers, 800 previews of next season’s collections. of whom were international. This edition presents 150 Italian man- Pitti Immagine’s online exhibition ufacturers as well as carefully select- project e-Pitti coincides with the event ed international brands. to allow buyers to discover new col-

Tribute to the Maestro Piero Tosi

Italian fashion designers Domeni- signers in April, which a prosecutor in co Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have Rome asked the court to uphold. been cleared of tax evasion charges The designers have always denied the charges, and responded to news of by Italy’s Court of Cassation. The court acquitted the pair citing the acquittal by tweeting, “We knew lack of case with regard to charges it!!! We are honest people!” that they had used holding company In 2013 Milan official Franco D’AlfonGado in Luxembourg to avoid paying so was quoted by Il Giornale as saytaxes on royalties amounting to €1 ing “we do not need tax-evaders to represent us,” leading to a three-day billion, an amount later reduced. An appeals court gave a suspended closure of Dolce & Gabbana stores in sentence of 18 months’ jail to the de- Milan “for indignation.”

A TREASURE TROVE OF CLASSIC PIECES Nestled in Santo Spirito, Celeste Vintage stands out as a vintage store focused upon elegant and sought-after objects. It offers a wide range of clothing that spans the beginning of the twentieth century through to the 1980s, with particular attention on the ‘30s, ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s. Treasures to be found include bijoux jewellery, crocodile-skin gloves and handbags, tortoiseshell items, clutch bags, fans, coats, hats and suitcases, alongside classic pieces by famous designers such as Gucci, Dior, Ferragamo, Fendi, Valentino and Cristian Lacroix.

Piazza San Felice, 1/r 055 285 540 vintageceleste@hotmail.com www.celestevintage.it

Until January 11, 2015

Twentieth-Century Women Protagonists On permanent display Costume Gallery, Palazzo Pitti Mon – Sun: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

Dolce and Gabbana Cleared of Tax Evasion

LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA Via de' Neri 53-55/r 055 23 98 553 CONCEPT SALON - without appointment Via de' Neri 49/r 055 28 28 41 CONCEPT SALON Via dei Benci 5/r 055 21 92 27

www.salonecontrasto.it

lections and increase business with new contacts. E-Pitti offers a space to access versions of Pitti Uomo, Pitti W, Pitti Bimbo and Pitti Filati, and gives registered exhibitors the opportunity to digitalize their physical stands, prolonging the visibility of their collection. ModaPrima aims to build relationships among the institutions that support both Italian fashion abroad and the players who work directly in the field of international distribution.

The Latin Nights of International Students Spanish & Mexican Restaurant & disco-pub The meeting point of all Latin communities and foreign students

Soccer passion, salsa, Spanish and Mexican food, and, most importantly, a true Latin atmosphere. These will be the ingredients for this fall at Salamanca, a restaurant that every night becomes a Latin Disco Pub after food has been consumed. A spot that has become the favorite of Italian and international students, who find the best opportunity to socialize here all year long. And with a Latin touch, with a Southern authenticity, that in Florence you can find just here. SPECIALTIES: QUESADILLAS, ENCHILADAS, BURRITOS AND TACOS

Tuesday: Latin Disco Wednesday: Live music with Mambo Kids Thursday: International Student Night Friday & Saturday: Latin Disco Bar

Via Ghibellina, 80/r â&#x20AC;˘ 055 23 45 452 www.salamanca.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

The English Patient Revisited

22 years on, I was miffed by much of tures. the narrative’s disjointed wandering. The novel forced me, as a reader, to Perhaps it mirrors the way the war set constantly compare narrative styles, so many people on unexpected jour- characters, and the relationships beneys to places and through cultures tween their various stories—and that with which they never dreamed to distanced me somewhat from the have seen or come to know. Themat- people, places, and the stories told. ically, then, the book works—but it Since another of the themes of the is jarring to pass from Hana’s poeti- novel seems to be that it’s almost imcally dis-attached impressions of the possible, in a world of personal and villa and its surroundings to straight private encounters and experiences, expository passages explaining Car- to grasp and take sides in the bigger avaggio’s medical situation, or from pictures of nationality, conflict, and the impressionistic beauty of the de- war, I was annoyed that the diverse scriptions of Kip and Hana’s blossom- narrative forms kept pushing me ing affections to The English patient’s away from the individual moments rather factual and somewhat dry described and prompting me to make recitation of his North African adven- just such value judgments.

LEE FOUST Lee Foust is a fiction writer and performer from Oakland, California who teaches literature and creative writing at various US universities in Florence. He is the author of Sojourner, a collection of stories and poems about the mystery of place, and the forthcoming Poison and Antidote, nine Bohemian tales of San Francisco during the Reagan era. Read more from Lee at www.leefoust.com.

1992 Booker Prize-winning novel The English Patient by Sri-Lankan-born Canadian poet and novelist Michael Ondaatje is an enormously pleasurable read, even if its theme of diversity and intersection makes a mess of traditional linear narrative form. Successful enough to be made into an Oscar-winning film (Best Picture!), with its two unexpected romances, five major characters from four different countries, from both sides of the war over Fascism, male and female, The English Patient’s patchwork approach to the novel is at times brilliant and original and at others a bit distracting, or even forced. The story begins in the semi-ruined Villa S. Girolamo (a fictional composite of the villas S. Girolamo and Le Balze, halfway up the Fiesolan hill) overlooking Florence during the latter part of WWII: the Allied armies have already passed through Tuscany and are busy pushing their way northward. The ruinous villa, bereft of amenities and infested with landmines, is indicative of Italy itself in this interim period between the chaos of battle and reconstruction. In the ruined villa we find a nurse, Hana, who has stayed behind the advancing Allied army to minister to an unrecognizably disfigured burn patient

LITERATURE

whom everyone thinks is English. shows up at the villa for mopping-up Caravaggio, a Canadian thief and operations. This character is not quite spy, who was also a friend of Hana’s as obviously drawn as a trauma vicfather from before the war, soon joins tim, although his journey from India, them. The English patient’s caramel- his training in England, and experiized person, Caravaggio’s torture and ences diffusing bombs in Italy, is a mutilation at the hands of the Nazis, terrific example of the novel’s theme and Hana’s mental paralysis brought of cultural intersections and interon by the loss of her father and her twining personal stories. Soon we own nearness to so much bloodshed settle down to focus on the romances: as a nurse during the campaign, all Kip (as Singh is called) and Hana fall join the ruined villa as tales of the together as Caravaggio begins feeddamage that the war has caused and ing The English patient morphine in the limits of recoverability from such order to discover—surprise!—that he is not English at all. The patent’s carnage. Although the setting and the presen- romantic backstory, set in Saharan tation of these first three characters North Africa in the period leading up sounds like a downer, the prose of to the war, and narrated by him to the opening chapters is actually quite Caravaggio, becomes the centerpiece exhilarating. With a poet’s sensitivity of the novel and source of most of the to language, the descriptions of the film’s power. characters’ inner states, the Tuscan Great characters, interesting setscenery, and the mood of the period, tings, wonderfully presented and are all well worth the price of admis- little-known aspects of the time pesion—just beautiful. Then the cultur- riod and war experience, plus beaual crosshatching begins to thicken: a tiful poetic language—it’s easy to sapper, or bomb-defuser, of Indian see why The English Patient was an birth—a Sikh—named Kirpal Singh award-winner. Still, reading it again

Main Libraries in Florence BIBLIOTECA GABINETTO G.P. VIEUSSEUX Piazza Strozzi 055 28 34 2 // Fax: 055 28 83 42 www.vieusseux.fi.it BIBLIOTECA MARUCELLIANA Via Cavour, 43 055 21 06 02 // 055 21 62 43 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Saturday: 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it BIBLIOTECA MEDICEA-LAURENZIANA Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9 055 21 07 60 www.bml.firenze.sbn.it/index_ing.htm BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE Piazza Cavalleggeri, 1/a switch-board 055 24 91 91 // 055 24 91 91 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Saturday: 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it BIBLIOTECA RICCARDIANA Via Ginori, 10 055 21 25 86 // Fax: 055 211 379

IRIS Piazza Strozzi, Palazzo Strozzi www.iris.firenze.it/index_e.php BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE CENTRALE Via S. Egidio, 21 055 26 16 512 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/biblioteche/comunale.htm BIBLIOTECA DEI RAGAZZI Via Tripoli, 34 055 24 78 551 www.comune.firenze.it/streghetta/ BIBLIOTECA PALAGIO DI PARTE GUELFA Piazza Parte Guelfa, 1 055 21 47 40 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/biblioteche/ppguelfa.htm THE UFFIZI LIBRARY 055 23 88 647 Tuesday: 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wednesday: 9 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Thursday-Friday: 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. biblioteca@polomuseale.firenze.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

EVENTS

Fairs & Markets

Christmas

TRIBUTE TO MAESTRO PIERO TOSI The art of the stage costumes from the Tirelli Donation Pitti Palace, The Costume Gallery Tue. to Sun.: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. www.polomuseale.firenze.it

FLORENCE TATTOO CONVENTION 2014 November 7-9 Fortezza da Basso Opening Times: Friday 3 p.m.-3 a.m. Saturday 12 p.m.-3 a.m. Sunday 12 p.m.-1 a.m.

THE UNIVERSE COMES TOGETHER IN SILENCE. ALFREDO SERRI Until January 18, 2015 Exhibition Hall, Via Bufalini, 6 Mon. to Fri.: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sat. & Sun. 10 a.m.-1 p.m. / 3-7 p.m. www.entecarifirenze.it

IL MERCATALE DI FIRENZE. QUALITY PRODUCTS MARKET November 8-9 Piazza Santa Maria Novella From: 8:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.

CHRISTMAS MARKET BY CROCE ROSSA ITALIANA November 21-23 Teatro Obihall Via Fabrizio de Andre Opening Times: Nov. 21: 3-10 p.m.; Nov. 22 & 23: 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. www.obihall.it

Exhibitions

GIO PONTI AND RICHARD GINORI: AN UNPUBLISHED CORRESPONDENCE Until November 8 Marino Marini Museum Piazza S. Pancrazio Daily: 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays, Sundays and public holidays www.museomarinomarini.it “UROBORO” JAMES LEE BYARS ENCOUNTERS LEON BATTISTA ALBERTI Until November 8 Marino Marini Museum www.museomarinomarini.it ISLAM. WEAPONS AND ARMOUR From the Stibbert Collection Until November 9 Stibbert Museum, Via F. Stibbert, 26 1944 I PONTI DI FIRENZE. FLORENTINE ART AND PEOPLE UNDER FIRE Until November 30 Archivio Storico, Via dell’Oriuolo, 33

GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET December 3-21 Piazza Santa Croce Open every day from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. CHRISTMAS MARKET December 6-7 & 13-14 Obihall, Lungarno Aldo Moro

BIANCO-VALENTE, CHERYL, KINKALERI, FRANCO MENICAGLI Until January 25, 2015 Palazzo Strozzi Mon. to -Fri.: 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; 2-6 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org

CHRISTMAS FAIR December 11-14 Fortezza da Basso Opening Times: Thu.: 3-8 p.m. Sat. & Sun.: 11 a.m.-8p.m.

HAIRDRESSING SALON IN VIA DE’ BENCI • • • • • • • • • • • •

Tue. to Thurs.: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Fri. to Sat.: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Via dei Benci, 37r 055 234 48 85

FOOD AND WINE BIENNALE OF FLORENCE November 10-30 Held in various places www.biennaleenogastronomica.it

Museums Now Open Late on Fridays Extended hours until Dec. 26

EXHIBITION OF THREE SCULPTURES BY DONATELLO Until November 30 Baptistery of Saint John the Baptist Piazza San Giovanni www.operaduomo.firenze.it

THE FORTUNES OF THE PRIMITIVES Art Treasures from Italian collections between the 18th and 20th century Until December 8 Accademia Gallery Tues – Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.unannoadarte.it

PICASSO AND SPANISH MODERNITY Until January 25, 2015 Palazzo Strozzi Mon. to -Fri.: 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; 2-6 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org

FLORENCE ART AND RESTORATION FAIR November 13-15 Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 From: 9:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. www.salonerestaurofirenze.org

CAMILLE HENROT - GROSSE FATIGUE Until February 8, 2015 Gucci Museum Piazza Signoria, 10 www.guccimuseo.com

SPOTLIGHT ON THE 20TH CENTURY Until March 8, 2015 Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo Pitti Tue. to Sun.: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.polomuseale.firenze.it THE PURE SIMPLE AND NATURAL in Art in Florence between the 16th and 17th centuries Until January 6, 2015 Uffizi Gallery Tues – Sun: 8:15 a.m.– 6:50 p.m. www.unannoadarte.it ANIMALIA Men and the care for the animals in the manuscripts of the Laurentian Library Until January 10, 2015 Laurentian Library, Piazza San Lorenzo, 9 Mon. to Sat.: 9:30 a.m.- 1:30 p.m. Closed on Sundays www.bmlonline.it

NATALEPERFILE Charity Christmas market 2014 December 12-14 Palazzo Corsini Dec. 12 & 13: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Dec. 14: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.

NEW OLIVE OIL LITTLE FAIR - ORGANIC AND LOCAL HAND MADE PRODUCTS November 16 Piazza Santo Spirito From: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. FORTEZZA ANTIQUARIA ANTIQUE MARKET November 15 -16 Gardens of Fortezza da Basso From: 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

MODAPRIMA November 21-23 Stazione Leopolda www.pittimmagine.com THE EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND HANDICRAFT FROM THE FLORENTINE AREA November 21-23 Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Galleria delle Carrozze Via Cavour, 1 From: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

EQUILIBRIUM Until April 12, 2015 Ferragamo Museum Piazza Santa Trinita, 5r Mon. to Sun.: 10 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. www.ferragamo.com/museo

SANTO SPIRITO FAIR December 14 From 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

CHRISTMAS LITTLE FAIR Organic and local hand made products December 21 Piazza Santo Spirito From 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Florence’s most prestigious state museums are now open late on Friday nights until December 26. The museums, which include the Uffizi Gallery, Accademia, Bargello National Museum and the Medici Chapels Museum, will be open from 7–10 p.m. Visitors to enjoy both permanent and temporary exhibitions on display for the price of an integrated ticket.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

ENTERTAINMENT

50 Days of International Cinema Returns

CINEMA ASTRA 2 Piazza Beccaria Firenze 055 2343666 www.odeonfirenze.com

While the Odeon hosts 50 Days of International Cinema, Cinema Astra 2 at Piazza Becceria screens films in original language with Italian subtitles on Tuesdays and Wednesdays during November and December (note that films are screened in Italian on other days).

SAM HENKEN The 50 Days of Cinema film festival is back in Florence, celebrating its eighth year at the Odeon Theater with the overarching theme of “Future.” The festival lasts until December 14 and brings a wide variety of films to Florence, spanning many genres and countries. Created in 2007 as a way to bring all of the smaller film festivals in the city into one huge event, 50 Days of Cinema consists of 10 smaller festivals that each feature a different theme or country of origin. With so many films spanning so many genres and interests, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Tickets: €7.50

FLORENCE QUEER FESTIVAL NOVEMBER 21–27

LGBTIQ cinema and culture comes to Florence for the 13th installment of this festival. More than 30 films vie for the title of the festival’s best picture, while art, literature and theater exhibitions also add to the event. Do not miss Pierrot Lunaire, the last effort of the visionary and irreverent Canadian director Bruce LaBruce.

SERENA DIRECTOR: Susanne Bier GENRE: Drama STARS: Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Lawrence, Toby Jones, Sean Harris PLOT:In Depression-era North Carolina, the future of George Pemberton’s timber empire becomes complicated when it is learned that his wife, Serena, cannot bear children. DATES/HOURS: Tuesday, Nov. 11 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 12 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 pm

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH FILM FESTIVAL OCTOBER 30 – NOVEMBER 2

After inaugural ceremonies, the festival opens with some of the best of contemporary French cinema. This year the festival is in honor of famous French director Alain Resnais and screens his last film, Life of Riley, with appearances by its stars and producer.

A MOST WANTED MAN DIRECTOR: Anton Corbijn GENRE: Thriller STARS: Philip Seymour Hoffman, Robin Wright, Rachel McAdams, Willem Dafoe, Daniel BrühlWillis, Eva Green, Powers Boothe, Dennis Haysbert PLOT: A Chechen Muslim illegally immigrates to Hamburg, where he gets caught in the international war on terror.

Featuring the best of films and documentaries about music and culture from all around the world, the Ethnomusical Film Festival takes audiences from Argentina to the Central African jungle. The festival concludes with a film about kora player Ablaye Cissoko and a performance by Cissoko himself.

THE HUNGER GAMES: MOCKINGJAY PART I DIRECTOR: Francis Lawrence GENRE: Adventure | Sci-Fi STARS: Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Liam Hemsworth, Woody Harrelson PLOT: After Katniss Everdeen shattered the games forever, Katniss must fight against all odds and save a nation moved by her courage.

DIRECTOR: Christopher Nolan GENRE: Adventure | Sci-Fi STARS: Matthew McConaughey, Anne Hathaway, Jessica, Chastain, Michael Caine PLOT: A group of explorers make use of a newly discovered wormhole to surpass the limitations on human space travel and conquer the vast distances involved in an interstellar voyage. DATES/HOURS: Tuesday, Nov. 18 at 5:30 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 19 at 5:30 p.m.

The 55th Festival dei Popoli offers the best of international documentary films and features a competition for the best short-, medium- and feature-length documentary. Influential documentarian Jos de Putter is honored with a screening of his film See No Evil.

ETHNOMUSICAL FILM FESTIVAL NOVEMBER 3–5

DATES/HOURS: Tuesday, Nov. 4 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 5th at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m.

INTERSTELLAR

FESTIVAL DEI POPOLO NOVEMBER 28–DECEMBER 5

RIVER TO RIVER INDIAN FILM FESTIVAL DECEMBER 6–12

River to River is Italy’s only Indian film festival and is celebrating its 14th year under the patronage of the Indian Embassy. This year’s festival focuses on young people and their relationship with the online world with an all-new “Online Stories” section.

THE INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF CINEMA AND WOMEN NOVEMBER 6–11

The 36th edition of the International Festival of Cinema and Women features films from some of the best female directors from all over Europe. The festival includes a tribute to writer/ director Lorenza Mazzetti, a pioneer for female filmmakers in the 1960s.

REVIEW OF FINNISH CINEMA DECEMBER 13–14

This selection offers films for the entire family that entertain children and give additional meaning to adults. The two days are filled with events, movies and music.

DATES/HOURS: Tuesday, Nov. 25 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 27 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Tuesday, Dec. 1 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Dec. 2 at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m.

PRIDE DIRECTOR: Matthew Warchus GENRE: Comedy | Drama | History STARS: Bill Nighy, Imelda Staunton, Dominic West PLOT: U.K. gay activists work to help miners during their lengthy strike of the National Union of Mineworkers in the summer of 1984. DATES/HOURS: Monday, Dec. 15: at 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m.

SCREEN ART FILM FESTIVAL NOVEMBER 12–16

This festival brings together contemporary art and film in amazing and beautiful ways. This year’s festival focuses on Hito Steyerl and his work on the use of media in the era of globalization. BALKAN FLORENCE EXPRESS NOVEMBER 17–20

Balkan Florence Express brings the best in cinema from the Balkans to Florence for the third year in a row. This year Slovenian films play a huge role, featuring director Rok Bicek’s Class Enemy, a winner at last year’s Venice Film Festival.

N.I.C.E. 2014 DECEMBER 14

The last leg of the international tour of N.I.C.E concludes the 50 Days. The festival promotes Italian film all over the world and aims to foster new love for Italian film culture. This year features a broad selection of films from such directors as Alessio Cremonini, Scarlett De Venuto and Antonio Morabito. The event also features a prize awarded for the most popular film among audiences abroad.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

MUSIC

The Florentine Beatles

Local cover band animating Tuesday nights since 1994 returns to Dolce Zucchero Everything is the same. The night, Tuesday, just as it has been for the past 20 years. The sound, because the instruments are the same, all ‘60s originals. The amplifiers, also original. The clothes, bought in England. Original, of course. But the most striking “same” is the hand: the left, the one that Dason Giglioli, leader and founder of the band, uses to play his bass. The left, exactly like Paul McCartney. And finally, the success the band has encountered in Florence over the last 20 years. Vox Power was formed in 1993 when

Mr Dason met Mr Fashian while they were both buying a guitar at a local store. They could not imagine in that moment that years later locals would stop them in the streets of Florence to congratulate them and have a chat with “the Beatles.” The band comprises members Mr Fashian (guitar/John Lennon) who never likes to acknowledge when someone is right, even when they are; Mr Dason (bass/Paul), a perfectionist who always wants the song to sound like the original, so as not to go mad; Mr Nick (lead guitar/George), who

pretends to be a guy from the 2000 but in fact got stuck in the ‘60s; and Mr Muffin (drums/Ringo) and his perennial smile. The band has played regularly over the past 10 years, not just in Florence, where they have performed in several local bars and clubs including the Hard Rock Cafe and BeBop. They have toured regularly throughout Italy and, in 2005, the United States, and were also asked to make a DVD to teach people how to play the instruments as the Beatles once did. The secret of this success is a simple

one: a genuine passion for the Beatles, which can be perceived in any show. A passion that makes Dason and his crew pride themselves on being a cover band and give audiences the feeling of seeing the Beatles live through interactive shows that appeal to a vast audience ranging from young kids, particularly foreign students, to locals and expats of all ages. Now they can be seen every Tuesday night at Dolce Zucchero, where you may get the same feeling of being at The Tavern in Liverpool in the early 1960s.

Did you know? •

• •

The Beatles wanted to star in a film version of the Lord of the Rings. They wanted Stanley Kubrick to direct. ‘Yesterday’ by the Beatles has been covered over 1,600 times. There is a heated international grammatical debate over whether “the” should be capitalized in “the Beatles.”

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Porto di Mare – Eskimo Bridging cultures through live music at the club where all musicians meet

As with any port, Porto di Mare – Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. Anyone is welcomed through the doors of this club, which also hosts a pizzeria and cafè. Its focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart: “We never play anything recorded here,” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their

music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. These include trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist, composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and

Enjoy Live Italian Music at Eskimo Club Born from the fusion of two former jazz venues, Eskimo and Jazz Club, Eskimo is a club-cafè that during the day is lived as a bookstore – the perfect place to find second-hand books – as well as a library where people meet to hang out in the afternoon. At night, the club becomes the stage where young Italian musician perform, often jamming together. The traditional Italian music that is played in this club ranges from songwriters to typical musical expressions from southern Italy such as the tarantella and others. Occasionally live jazz is played too. Eskimo is the perfect club where non-Italian musicians or non-Italian music aficionados can meet their Italian counterpart. It gives artists from all over the world the opportunity to take the stage in a familiar environment, where they can blend ideas and showcase their talents. This is indeed the place where Italian songwriters typically perform in a very relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, which is not always easy to

find in the foreign-dominated venues of Florence’s city center. Manager Sara Bonomo hopes that Eskimo will become “a theatrical workshop and a venue open to other types of arts, not just music – and focusing on bringing together a foreign audience, tourists, apericena [aperitivo dinner] and jazz.” In the small stage of this club some of the most famous Italian singers and musicians have appeared when looking for a more intimate approach with the public, far from the sports hall where they usually perform. This is why Eskimo is not just a bar but rather an ‘atmosphere’ perfect to chill out in, far from the formality of the city center’s nightlife.

Music Calendar Tuesday: Jazz Open Mic & Workshop Wednesday: Bog & Kate Live (Ft. Guests) Thursday: Rock Night Friday: Italian Southen Music Live Saturday: Francesco Cofone (Ft. Guests) Sunday: Folk, Rock & Blues

VINTAGE VINYL & NEW RELEASES Data Records 93 is the perfect spot for music aficionados and those looking for a different take on current music or a nostalgic throwback to decades past. Born in 1977 as Contempo Records, it holds a vast collection of music, from new releases to rare pressings, and even includes recent releases on vinyl. Data Records 93’s eclectic and valuable collection attracts international DJs and it also ships all over the world. Via de’ Neri, 15/r (near Santa Croce) 055 287 592 www.superecords.com

Porto di Mare – Eskimo Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 portodimareeskimo@gmail.com

FREEET BUFF 7 from

p.m.

ITAL IA

IVANA SCATOLA

rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few. The band’s genre has evolved from classical music to a looser, improvised style: “Morris’s idea was to dissolve any sort of ‘formation’ in the orchestra, and for this reason, conducting isn’t undertaken in one style but acts more like a tool for endless different styles,” Fabio Morgera explains. “I conduct a group of musicians but they have complete freedom of the choice of notes; it’s an exchange between us. There’s no rigid music score to follow … In this way, it’s possible to create music together that has an organic quality.” The band performs live at the venue every month, and has already had many requests from specialized magazines to festival directors.

MUSIC

VIA DE’ BENCI, 23/R · 055 24 79 738 · INFO@MOYO.IT · FACEBOOK: MOYO FIRENZE

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

SAN GIMIGNANO

WWII in the Memories Winter Wines and Wine-Tasting of a Local Woman THOMAS RICCIOTI Tina was only 12 when the Allies landed in southern Italy in the summer of 1943. A few days after, as it appeared evident that the war was lost, Italy surrendered to the Allies and in a few hours, became enemies. They invaded Italy and even succeeded in liberating Mussolini and bringing him before Hitler, who forced him to carry on with the war. It was at this point that some Italians began to fight the Nazis, while others joined Mussolini in his new Fascist government now in operation in northern Italy. For Italy, it was the beginning of a civil war within the war. Tina remembers well the days when San Gimignano was presided over by the Germans. The family bar was started in 1924 by her father, who named it “Bar dei Combattenti” (“Bar of the Fighters”). No name could have been be more appropriate; the bar soon became the meeting point of local WWI veterans, and in 1943 it was confiscated by the Nazis, who then used it as their headquarters. The Nazis in San Gimignano were few; Tina only remembers a general and five very young soldiers, who were only a few years older than her. She recalls their kindness when they offered her candy, bread and margarine. And she recalls their general threatening her just before leaving San Gimignano to the Allies, that the Germans would “soon return.” Every day for a few months, the five young soldiers left the bar to step inside “Tigre”, the name they had given to the tank hidden just outside, and fire the shots that announced the curfew. Even today, when she hears a plane in

the sky, Tina gets scared: the memory of the bombings is still alive, and it resurrects her fear of the war days. The planes that she saw coming in from the sea attacked Poggibonsi, the biggest town in the area, only a few kilometers away. Then, one summer day in 1944, Tina saw those planes changing their route and approaching San Gimignano. The arrival of the Allies was now just a matter of days away, maybe hours. The bombs were small, to avoid or limit victims among civilians, and were dropped on the walls of the city for 15 days. Whether accidentally or not, the cathedral was hit and partly destroyed. It was during the Allied bombardment of San Gimignano that Tina entered her father’s bar and saw the corpses of the five young German soldiers. They were unrecognizable; their blood was everywhere on the walls. The Allies had understood where “Tigre” was hidden and had hit it as it released its final shot. Candy was now donated by the Allied soldiers. Meanwhile, the local kids had understood the potential of business, even during wartime: Tina and her friends began selling wine and oranges to the new soldiers. The price for a glass of white wine and one orange went for one-and-a-half lire. Today, if you happen to visit San Gimignano and enter it from the San Giovanni door, step inside the Bar dei Combattenti and ask for a glass of white wine and an orange. Tina is old, she does not spend much time at the bar anymore; the ‘fight’ is now carried on by children and grandchildren. But if she happens to be there, she will charge you one-and-a-half lire. And if you want, you can charge her for some of her memories.

The vendemmia has finished and the wines are looking promising, and now the olive harvest is underway. At Fattoria Il Piano in San Gimigna-

no, like the rest of Tuscany, the olive harvest does not look good. The early arrival of the olive fly has done some damage, which means that high-quality, single-estate olive oil like Il Piano’s could be scarce this winter. November can be one of the best months in Tuscany, with cool nights and lovely clear autumn days. This is the time to visit places like San Gimignano and explore the Val d’Elsa, stopping in Casole d’Elsa, Radicondoli and Colle di Val d’Elsa. Now that these areas are less crowded you can enjoy them at leisure; try the Tuscan winter soups on the menus and fresh truffles that complement wild boar dishes so well. Fattoria Il Piano, just 4km south of San Gimignano, is ideally situated

for staying at, visiting the area or just relaxing in the peace and quiet. Perhaps take a walk through the woods and hunt for wild mushrooms or even truffles. Best of all, taste its wines; if you want a group tasting with friends or even an office outing, a unique experience is guaranteed. Fattoria Il Piano’s 2010 Colli Senesi Chianti and IGT with Sangiovese and Merlot both at 15 percent are winter wines that complement game and steaks superbly. Produced in limited quantity, they are worth snapping up and putting down until the winter holidays for a real treat. Add the excellent Carlesi Zucconi Vernaccia 2011 and an unoaked Chardonnay (for a change!), and you have a perfect selection for the coming months.

Pinturicchio on Display because of his small stature and even used this name to sign some of his The exhibition dedicated to Umbrian works. He is famous for his highly painter Pinturicchio has been extend- decorative frescoes and for being one ed until January 6. The show inaugu- of the great masters of the 15th-centurates a series of exhibitions which ry Umbrian school, alongside Pietro will take place annually, analyzing Perugino and the young Raphael. The the works of significant artists that exhibition is sponsored by the Superhave enriched the UNESCO World intendence for the Historical, Artistic Heritage site. and Ethno-anthropological Heritage The final season of Pinturicchio’s for the province of Siena. career will be showcased, including Pinturicchio. his last great altarpiece, Madonna in Glory with Saints George and Benedict The Altarpiece of (1512). This was his last documented San Gimignano and work and was painted for the Santa the Siena Years Maria Assunta monastery, a few kilometers from San Gimignano. Other Pinacoteca, Palazzo Comunale, San Gimignano works on display include Virgin and Until January 6, 2015 Child with Saint John the Baptist, Holy Open every day: 11 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. Family and Saint John and The NativTickets: € 7,50 (regular); € 6,50 ity. (reduced) Bernardino di Betto Betti came to be www.sangimignanomusei.it known by the nickname Pinturicchio

GEORGIA FAY

Taste The Famous Wines of Colli Senesi Come Visit Fattoria Il Piano in the Hills of Siena

Be given a personal tour of the cellars and vineyards. Then taste our wines with typical local dishes. Read some of our reviews on TripAdvisor. Reservations necessary.

Carlesi Zucconi Premier Wines How about a Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a Colli Senesi Chianti or even our Super Tuscan!

Spend time in peace and quiet watching the winter colours arrive. 10% off if you stay a week or more during November and December (excluding Christmas and New Year).

Fattoria Il Piano San Gimignano

LOCALITA MONTAUTO -53037 SAN GIMIGNANO ( SI ) www.Fattoriailpiano.it | FB: Il Piano wines and wine tasting WINES & WINE TASTINGS : (0039) 320 631 46 55 • fattoriailpiano@gmail.com • AGRITOURISMO : (0039) 0577 940 551 • info@fattoriailpiano.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Florence Marathon Italy Passes Football Security Act Takes Off on Nov. 30 Despite pressure from Serie A clubs, the Italian Parliament passed a bill ramping up security for football matches in Italy. The bill accounts for extra security measures, including allowing the use of tasers, and will be paid by a one- to three-percent tax on ticket sales for Serie A clubs. The league believes that the tax is illegal. “The Italian football system is already contributing to general taxation of the country for a total of €1 billion

ELKE NUMEYER -WINDSHUTTLE Runners from all over the world are warming up as Florence Marathon returns for its 31st edition on November 30. The second-largest marathon in Italy after that hosted by Rome and considered amongst the world’s top 20, numbers are expected to exceed last year’s 11,300 participants. The starting gun fires at 9:15 a.m. at Lungarno Pecori Giraldi, initiating a 42-kilometer race that guides participants through Florence’s surrounding hillsides, Piazza del Duomo, Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio before the winner cuts the ribbon at Piazza Santa Croce. Runners must cross the halfway point in three hours and complete the course in six, which is timed by electronic chips attached to each participant.

The 2014 edition includes the Ginky Family Run, a two-kilometer route designed especially for children, which takes place at 9:30 a.m. in Piazza Santa Croce. It was created to invite young people into the marathon, and saw 2500 participants in 2013. Registration is free for children under 14 years of age. Events associated with the marathon LUCA PIERETTI include the Florence Marathon Expo, which provides a fundamental refer- The NFL season 2014-15 has reached ence and meeting point for runners half season, with the Denver Broncos inside the Luigi Ridolfi athletic stadi- dominating the AFC conference. At um, where sporting, tourism and en- the NFC conference, 2014 Super Bowl tertainment initiatives are on display. Champions, the Seattle Seahawks, After the race, marathon organizers surprises were big as an amazing host a party featuring a Tuscan menu, first half season of the Dallas Cowmusic, entertainment and dancing to boys’ Dez Bryant was followed by the celebrate the runners’ achievement. Arizona Cardinals and Philadelphia Enrollment costs €70 (€35 for dis- Eagles, who continue to surprise all abled athletes) and can be done by those who didn’t give them a chance. mail, fax or online at www.firenze- Lastly, the Oakland Raiders, who remarathon.it before November 15. main without victory. While Tampa

and €34 million of direct and indirect taxes, 741 of which are attributable only to the Serie A club,” said a league representative. Serie A continued to the fight the tax, despite it passing in the House, but it was not enough to stop it from passing in the Senate as well. The tax will cost clubs between €2.5–7.5 million and cover extra time for police officers and other additional security costs in every stadium.

SPORT & LEISURE

Fiorentina Home Games SERIE A Fiorentina vs Napoli Oct. 9 at 6 p.m. Fiorentina vs Juventus Dec. 5 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina vs Empoli Dec. 21 at 3 p.m. Keep up to date with Fiorentina at en.violachannel.tv Tickets can be bought online at it.violachannel.tv, at the stadium and at Fiorentina Point on Viale Manfredo Fanti, 85/a.

Watch NFL in Florence Bay and the Jaguars managed to score a victory, it seems all these teams have nothing to ask of their season and perhaps are already thinking ahead to the next draft, but of course the season is long and anything can happen, especially in football… miracles included. In Florence you can follow NFL games in bars such as Naima, where if you don’t want lose any games of your favorite team you can always ask to watch a specific game.

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HAMBURGERS AND AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitchblack stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Open Daily: 11–2 a.m. Via Nazionale, 114/r (near the train station) 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

Prague: A Continuing Fairytale

effectively preserved much of its original structure, the intriguing archiWith the prestige of being one of tecture of the early Middle Ages, High the locations on the UNESCO World Gothic period and High Baroque periHeritage List, Prague’s architectural od can be seen nestled on the banks of splendor has influenced the develop- the Vltava River. Many of the glorious ment of most European architecture, monuments, palaces and churches through monuments created over a such as the Hradcani Castle, St Vitus thousand years that give this city a Cathedral and Charles Bridge were magic, unique glamour. A fairytale built mostly under the Holy Roman glamour, because when you walk in Emperor, Charles IV in the fourteenth the streets of Prague you really have century and remain main attractions. the sensation of being in a fantasy Sites such as the Prague Castle, the Cathedral of St Vitus and Hradćany world. The historic center, built between the Square in front of the Castle have beeleventh and eighteenth centuries, is come internationally known, as well one of Europe’s cultural and aesthet- as the Valdgtejn Palace on the left ic gems. As one of the cities that has bank of the river, the Gothic Charles

AVANI KAPUR

Bridge, the Romanesque Rotunda of the Holy Rood and the Gothic arcaded houses of the Old Town Square. Not only does Prague offer much of Europe’s visual brilliance, but it was additionally one of the main centers of Christianity. Founded in 1348, and one of the earliest to be established in Europe, the Prague University was a major factor in the European Reformation. Many ideas of the Hussite Movement were formed at the university which gave way to the beginning of the reformation. Prague has also been a vital center for the intellectual and cultural advancement of central Europe, being associated with renowned individuals such

as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Franz Kafka, Albert Einstein and co-founder of the League of Nations, Edvard Beneš. In addition to its rich history, the modern side of Prague complements the city with a diverse selection of traditional cuisine, entertainment, art and nightlife. Many of the best Czech restaurants are located amongst the historic attractions. The John Lennon Wall offers a perspective on a more recent period of the Czech Republic, while Prague’s largest nightclub, Karlovy Lazne, offers five floors and 10 bars, proving the city’s truly unique ability to mix old with new.

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Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels Breakfast The New Prague Walking Tour Bus2alps walking tour Bus2alps trip leader The Prague Bus2alps informational guide Bus2alps exclusive discounts

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS WINTER EDITION 2014, NO. 11

TRAVEL

Discover Europe’s Christmas Markets with Bus2Alps

Fairy lights, handicrafts, gingerbread and snow-dusted squares transport visitors into a magical and timeless world at the Christmas markets in Vienna, Salzburg and Prague. Browse stalls selling hand-carved wooden toys, Christmas decorations, nutcrackers, Advent calendars and traditional confectionary, and enjoy outdoor concerts with a glass of glühwein in hand. This spicy red wine is not only a delectable festive beverage, but a great way to warm up during the outdoor celebrations.

Vienna’s Rathausplatz hosts 150 stalls in a shimmering mass of color, with Christmas decorations, traditional sweets and child-friendly activities on offer. Smaller markets can be found dotted around the city, including Riesenradplatz, Spittelberg, Karlsplatz, Maria-Theresien-Platz and Schönbrunn Palace. At Salzburg’s Schloss Hellbrunn Christmas market, visitors can sample Mozartkugel chocolate pralines and enjoy a reindeer-pulled sleigh ride. Booths offer a range of Christmas decorations and handcrafted

gifts, as well as fine baked goods and mas fare. Sample the roasted chestdelicious aromatic glühwein. The nuts and Christmas confectionary city that gave us Mozart also offers on offer, and take home a memento popular performances by traditional in the form of a special mulled wine Salzburg choirs and children’s school mug. groups, which lure crowds every year. Strolling through the snow-dusted The market is opened by the Arch- stalls with hot chocolate or a hot bishop on the first Saturday in Advent mug full of glühwein is the highlight right after the blessing of the Advent of Europe’s many treasured Christwreaths. mas festivities, offering a refreshing Prague’s Old Town Square hosts a red- change from commercialized Christroofed Christmas village selling deco- mas shopping to the enchantment of rations, a children’s workshop and an a centuries-old tradition. entertaining program of Christmas To book your trip, please visit www. events alongside its enticing Christ- bus2alps.com or Via Ghibellina, 97/r.

Included • • • • •

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation at top-rated hostels with breakfast Exclusive discounts on the opera, Sound of Music tour and other activities The Vienna & Salzburg Bus2alps informational guide Bus2alps trip leader